LOL, You want to come down and work on the theater for me? :D

Ya, I like the star ceilings. Im thinking about doing that as well, but have not made it to that stage of the build yet. I have seen several of these live and they are very cool.

Ronnie
Ronnie,

I've changed from normal recessed cans to a star ceiling. I haven't put up drywall yet, so it makes it a bit easier to wire at this time. I was thinking about it all along, but figured my wife would never go for it. After I showed her Sandman's HT, she loved it and said "I want that!" Cool..... It doesn't look real difficult, just tedious....

Id love to if I were only in the US and could slide it past the wife, lol

On second thought...you better just keep plugging along..imnot gonna be back for about another 6 weeks and im sure she wouldnt find it too cool for me to run off for my vacation at home to try to help someone who is doing such a great job anyway...but to be hones...I'D LOVE TO COME HELP THATS FOR SURE!! :D

Ronnie,

I've been lurking on the forum picking up tips and ideas for my own HT which I intend on starting in April. I find myself spending hours day and night trawling AVS forum - its really addictive.

You and the other guy's and girl's in this forum are a real inspiration. How you all find time to build your HT, keep everyone updated on the forum AND have a web site is beyond me. I just hope I can live up to the standards you all set - the bar is high!

Thanks again


Thanks BritInVA. Yes, its a ton of work to keep up. Especially when you already have a demanding job, family, and fitness schedule. Many late hours spent here.

You may notice that sometimes a few days go by between some of the updates..... Its during that time that we are resting up :D

Ronnie

Jerrod,
How difficult is it to install a star ceiling, if the ceiling is already there?

thanks
Reece

Jerrod,
How difficult is it to install a star ceiling, if the ceiling is already there?

thanks
Reece

SandManX gives a great tutorial on the star ceiling here (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=6649712&highlight=fiber#post6649712).


His whole thread is required reading.......... :D

Ronnie

I know a few of you guys are going to be upset with me this weekend. I know you want to see those columns come to life. :)

I picked up some lumber today for the weekend work. No columns though :o Sorry guys. I will be building the riser for the rear seating. Its basically a 11'X6'x12" platform. It will have a couple of 10"X30" steps built into it. I also have a 2" overhanging lip that will go around the entire platform except the front. This will conceal some rope lighting used to illuminate the steps and walkway behind the platform. I was originally going to do it all carpet, but after a few sketches, I decided that trimming it out in oak to match the rest of the decor would look best. The rope lighting should also help showcase the woodwork.

Here are a few pics. The carpet is just for the model and does not reflect what I will go with. But you get the idea.

http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/riser/seating_riser.jpg

http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/riser/seating_riser3.jpg

http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/riser/seating_riser1.jpg


Ronnie

Looks good Ronnie, all I really need now are construction pics and my fix is complete :)

Keep it up...looks great as usual

Hey Ronnie, I would Say save yourself some work and make the riser on the step flush with the side of the platform. Keep the Lip the same on the Step and the Platform side.

Oh now I'm thinking of it, you may need it that way for rope lighting.

Looking Awesome!

Ruben

I dont mean to jump from one build to the next but....

I followed Sandmans thread as well and noticed he chose the OPtoma H79 (I was thinking of gettting it too but havent decided).....how is it working out Sandman??

Robert

Ronnie,

Found this online today...thought youd be interested...

http://www.lightinguniverse.com/wall-sconces/view.aspx?family=4245

I think you could paint it...maybe

Robert

This one is paintable and cheaper...little different but still close.....

http://www.lightinguniverse.com/wall-sconces/view.aspx?family=8914

Robert

Hey Ronnie, I would Say save yourself some work and make the riser on the step flush with the side of the platform. Keep the Lip the same on the Step and the Platform side.

Oh now I'm thinking of it, you may need it that way for rope lighting.

Looking Awesome!

Ruben


Your dead on Ruben, The lip is to hide the rope lighting. You know me, Im not afraid of work. :p

Ronnie

Ronnie,

Found this online today...thought youd be interested...

http://www.lightinguniverse.com/wall-sconces/view.aspx?family=4245

I think you could paint it...maybe

Robert


Thanks Robert. I had actually seen that before. I have a folder on my computer with tons of different ideas that I have found all over the web. One of the subfolders contains sconces.

I will be making my own. I can create something like this out of solid oak and stain it to match the rest of the room for around $30 including all the parts. I dont see how they get away with charging $450 for something so simple.

Ronnie

Yeah I was thinking the same thing just didnt know if you were going to purchase it or build it...if it were me Id build it but I was looking for a cheaper alternative (well cheaper than the prices on those sconces) and when I saw them thought you might be interrested.

Now quit reading this and get back to work so we can see some progress, LOL

Robert

I started working on my seating riser this weekend. Man this is tough by yourself. I pretty much finished up everything. I need to pick up some more insulation and I can put the top on it and call it a day. :D

You might notice the odd framing spacing in the pics. I made a noob mistake. :( Another reason why you probably need a couple sets of eyes when DIY'ing. I made the square frame first and started putting the cross pieces in it. I was measuring the dimensions of the frame and centering up all the cross braces within the framing. I had finished about half of it and it hit me! I thought to myself "Hey, the plywood going on top is 48" wide and I'm going to need the braces to be centered on the edges where the plywood meets'. So instead of taking them out and respacing them, I just added a few at the strategic places. You guys will be the only ones that know. :p shhhhhhh, don't tell anyone.

Here is a picture of what I have finished so far. I will add some of the details in the next couple of posts.

http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/riser/P3120107.jpg

I started out with the framing for the rear section. This is the section the seats will be placed on. Its 128.5"x40"

http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/riser/P3110059.jpg


I divided the width into thirds and added 2 more 2x12's for main support. 2x4's were then added for additional support using joist hangers. This will also give me something to secure the plywood flooring to. As I mentioned in the previous post, I was not thinking about the dimensions of the top plywood and had to add a few joist so they would support the edges where two peices of plywood meet. That was easier than having to worry about cutting the plywood down to size. I can now use 3 full sheets and only make 1 cut.

http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/riser/P3110065.jpg

http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/riser/P3110062.jpg http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/riser/P3120069.jpg

Next, I began building the front section of the riser. This is additional space that will allow you to recline without hitting the front row of chairs. It also has steps built into each side. This section is 126.5"X32". The lower step will have a 2" overhang that will bring it out flush with the 128.5" rear section. The steps are 12"x32".

Here is the addition of the front section and the 2x12 cross pieces.

http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/riser/P3110067.jpg


I also added more 2x4 supports to this section using joist hangers.

http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/riser/P3120076.jpg


Ronnie

For the steps, I picked up some 3/4" bullnose mdf shelving. It was originally 11.25"x48". Found it at HD for $2.59 each. I cut them down to 32".

http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/riser/P3120085.jpg


The entire stage and both steps will have a 2" overhang. I'm using this overhang to hide some rope lighting. I wanted all sections of the lighting hidden, so I cut out a couple of notches in each step to route to the power source. There is also about a 1" hole cut into the lower right hand corner for the bottom section of lights.

http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/riser/P3120089.jpg


I cut an 8"x6" hole into the front face of the stage. This will become a hidden door that will give me access to the receptacle that will power the rope lights. This will make it very easy to replace fuses or even the rope lighting in the event it goes bad. All I need to do is unplug it by reaching through the door, unscrew the power cord from the rope light, and pull it out the holes I mentioned earlier. Replacement is just as simple by reversing the above steps.

http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/riser/P3120088.jpg


http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/riser/P3120096.jpg


I went ahead and boxed in the area where any wiring or lighting will be to keep it away from the insulation.

http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/riser/P3120102.jpg


Here is how the rope lighting will look coming out below the steps.

http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/riser/P3120093.jpg


I bought some clear plastic rope lighting channel the will be mounted to the bottomside of the 2" overhang. Once in place, you simply snap the rope into the channel. This will also make it easy to replace if needed. It came in 6' sections.



Ronnie

Looks good Ronnie....

Stupid electrical question here...the rope lighting is only on and off right, so I am assuming that outlet built into the riser to power the lighting is on a switsh as well?

Robert

Looks good Ronnie....

Stupid electrical question here...the rope lighting is only on and off right, so I am assuming that outlet built into the riser to power the lighting is on a switsh as well?

Robert

The single outlet you see will be on a single zone connected to the grafik eye. I didnt want to hardwire the lights in case I ever needed to change them out (might try different colors). By installing the outlet, I can plug in the lights without any modification, then use the grafik eye to control them. Most of the time, they will be dimmed to produce only enough light to illuminate the steps and walkway.

Make sense?

Ronnie

Hey Ronnie.

Don't want to be a wet dishrag - but did you verify that 2x4 is sufficient for that span and the kind of weight you'll be putting on it? Those chairs and 3-4 people is a pretty good load and it has to be considered a live load.

Hi Ronnie,

Where can one find 5.5" thick cotton? I can't find linacoustic or any comparable duct liner here in Vermont for my stage walls.

Thanks for the very helpful post!

Kip

Ronnie,

Great job on the stage. Don't forget to liquid-nail the "top" 3/4" ply before screwing it down. You don't want any vibrations when watching those LFE intensive movies! Also, make sure you stuff that platform TIGHT with insulation (we don't care about R-value here -- just sound resonation reduction) :D

Do you plan to put any bass shakers in the platform or in your seating? Just a reminder to pre-wire before it is sealed up if you are "thinking" about doing it.

Hey Ronnie.

Don't want to be a wet dishrag - but did you verify that 2x4 is sufficient for that span and the kind of weight you'll be putting on it? Those chairs and 3-4 people is a pretty good load and it has to be considered a live load.


Thanks for the concern Byran. Take a closer look. You will see 2 additional 2x12's in each section. They are spaced evenly within the framing. Thats not all 2x4's :D

Let me know if your still concerned.



Ronnie

Hi Ronnie,

Where can one find 5.5" thick cotton? I can't find linacoustic or any comparable duct liner here in Vermont for my stage walls.

Thanks for the very helpful post!

Kip


Google for "ultra-touch" cotton. You should be able to find a dealer close to you. If not, contact BPape. He carries it in stock.

Ronnie

Ronnie,

Great job on the stage. Don't forget to liquid-nail the "top" 3/4" ply before screwing it down. You don't want any vibrations when watching those LFE intensive movies! Also, make sure you stuff that platform TIGHT with insulation (we don't care about R-value here -- just sound resonation reduction) :D

Do you plan to put any bass shakers in the platform or in your seating? Just a reminder to pre-wire before it is sealed up if you are "thinking" about doing it.


You mean you dont need the riser to be thermally efficient? :D

It will be packed with Insulation. I ran out and have to buy more before completion. Im using roofing felt between the layers of plywood, so I dont think liquid nails will be neccesary. If I am wrong, let me know.

I dont plan on having any bass-shakers now or in the future. I also dont feel the need to run any a/v jacks to the platform. I know this will go against the grain. :p Getting wiring to the platform is a major challenge due to it being on a second story. You have to cut into the subfloor and also punch holes in the trusses and route the wiring through it. The electricity alone was a huge challange. I dont want to tackle trying to get A/V stuff over to the platform. If needed, I will put a plate on the left hand side wall with any A/V needs.

Ronnie

You mean you dont need the riser to be thermally efficient? :D

It will be packed with Insulation. I ran out and have to buy more before completion. Im using roofing felt between the layers of plywood, so I dont think liquid nails will be neccesary. If I am wrong, let me know.
I would think since you are using the felt, that screws will do the trick.

If needed, I will put a plate on the left hand side wall with any A/V needs.
That's exactly what I'm doing. It's clean and hidden on the wall. I'm actually running all my cables down one fo the side columns from the attic above. The challenge for me was getting a pull-string down the vault. Good 'ole fish tape to the rescue. No drywall patching needed :)

Ronnie,

Yes that answered my question about the lighting....thanks

Robert

Hi Ronnie,

Others here are much more qualified than I am to comment so forgive me if this question shows ignorance on my part. Will the MDF used as a step be strong enough? It was my impression that MDF is not very strong. If I am correct in my understanding, will it be able to handle the stresses of people waling up and down and perhaps stepping near the edge? I'm only Swithey's pee-on assistant who largely follows direction. :D

By the way, I don't think Steve would be jealous if I offerred my assistance to you as well. If you need an extra set of hands, let me know.

I used to work at Precision Cable off of 205 and I-30 until they sent most of their manufacturing to Mexico and laid most of us off. I've been craving Luigi's ever since (P.S. I work for food).

David

Hi Ronnie,

Others here are much more qualified than I am to comment so forgive me if this question shows ignorance on my part. Will the MDF used as a step be strong enough? It was my impression that MDF is not very strong. If I am correct in my understanding, will it be able to handle the stresses of people waling up and down and perhaps stepping near the edge? I'm only Swithey's pee-on assistant who largely follows direction. :D

David


Hmmmm, maybe someone else will chime in before I screw them down. I may be wrong, but they seem pretty sturdy. I have had them in place and been walking all over them lately. The framing underneath them is almost solid except for a strip in the center about 8" wide and 30 inches long. They are 3/4" thick.

Anyone else think I should have any concerns?

Ronnie

Hi Ronnie,

By the way, I don't think Steve would be jealous if I offerred my assistance to you as well. If you need an extra set of hands, let me know.


David

Thanks for the offer David. I may take you up on it sometime. You, Steve, and I need to get together sometime and introduce ourselves.

Ronnie

Thanks for the offer David. I may take you up on it sometime. You, Steve, and I need to get together sometime and introduce ourselves.

Ronnie
Lunch is always good. Ronnie, where is your work? I'm at the Galleria Towers.

Lunch is always good. Ronnie, where is your work? I'm at the Galleria Towers.

Im downtown in the Bank of America Plaza. The tallest building downtown and its lit in green at night. I also work from home a couple of times a week.

Ronnie

Im downtown in the Bank of America Plaza. The tallest building downtown and its lit in green at night. I also work from home a couple of times a week.

Ronnie
And you live in Rockwall -- boy, what a commute. I'll take this off-line and email you directly.

And you live in Rockwall -- boy, what a commute. I'll take this off-line and email you directly.

The commute is not bad at all. I take the DART from Rowlett park and ride and its about a 30 minute ride. As long as your commute doesnt involve 635, I think you are ok.

Ronnie

I finished stuffing the stage with insulation last night. 6 bales of R-13 insulation. A total of 240 square feet of that pink stuff. I will post up some pics later tonight.

David has me rethinking the 12x30 MDF steps. It seems stable, but I think I will play it safe and use a 1x12, plywwood or both. That would probably be better to attach carpet to on the underside anyway.

Ronnie

I finished up the 1st layer of plywood on the riser tonight. Only thing left is the roofing felt, second layer of plywood, and running the rope lights. I guess thats tomorrows task.


1st, here is a picture of the riser stuffed with 6 bags of R-13 insulation.

http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/riser/P3140001.jpg


Here it is topped with the 1st layer. I couldnt have asked for it to come together any better. It was perfectly square, my cross-members matched up, and a nice 2" lip with no cutting except for the steps and the front 2 feet' of plywood that overhung. I wish everything came out that easy. ;)

http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/riser/P3140015.jpg


Ronnie

I couldnt have asked for it to come together any better. It was perfectly square, my cross-members matched up, and a nice 2" lip with no cutting except for the steps and the front 2 feet' of plywood that overhung. I wish everything came out that easy. ;)
Square on the 1st try -- I'm impressed :) Great job for a one-man team!! On the insulation, did you rip all the paper backing off before you installed it? I ask because bpape made me do that when I filled the floor area in my false wall area? It was not that difficult but a mask was definitely needed because those fibers were airborne everywhere.

Yldesyde/David and I were talking about your MDF step the other day and this is what we came up with. You could use the 2x10 you were planning to use but you might want to top it with some 3/4" MDF so you can have a nice smooth routed edge on the front of the step. This would also allow you to use (2) 2x6s -- which may be cheaper than a 2x10 board and hopefully less warping over time.

Also, now I see how the riser will be away from the left and right walls -- and how that would cause issues getting cables to the platform. Wall mounted cables will definitely do well in your situation.

On the insulation, did you rip all the paper backing off before you installed it? I ask because bpape made me do that when I filled the floor area in my false wall area? It was not that difficult but a mask was definitely needed because those fibers were airborne everywhere.
Correct me if I'm wrong Bryan, but I think that's only if you use the riser as a bass trap (Helmholtz?), otherwise it doesn't matter. Better safe than sorry if you're not sure you need it.

Bud

I always spec unfaced materials for cavities like that. Maybe I'm just being overly anal about it. It won't kill you if it's faced - I just prefer the fiberglass be right against the surface. The paper can also in some cases cause gaps where it's folded/wrinkled/etc.

(Actually I just like to make people wear the mask... ;) )

Square on the 1st try -- I'm impressed :) Great job for a one-man team!! On the insulation, did you rip all the paper backing off before you installed it? I ask because bpape made me do that when I filled the floor area in my false wall area? It was not that difficult but a mask was definitely needed because those fibers were airborne everywhere.



Well, I did have to check it first to make sure it was square. Pushed one corner about 1/2 inch. But once that was done, it came together like clockwork.


I left the paper on the fiberglass. I did turn the bottom piece so the pink is towards the floor. That should cover BPapes comment about having the insulation against the surface. Leaving the paper on it also made it easier to slide the stuff around on top of the layer below it without all the fibers tearing apart. I also tried to cut the pieces exactly so there would not be any folds in the material. With the amount of material thats stuffed into that thing, its very tight. I kept having to push it down real hard and then put the plywood on top quickly before it starts to overflow. Seems rock solid and quiet even with the single layer of plywood.

Ronnie

Yldesyde/David and I were talking about your MDF step the other day and this is what we came up with. You could use the 2x10 you were planning to use but you might want to top it with some 3/4" MDF so you can have a nice smooth routed edge on the front of the step. This would also allow you to use (2) 2x6s -- which may be cheaper than a 2x10 board and hopefully less warping over time.



Im just going to go with the the 2x6's or 2x10's. The step is 12" deep, so I will have to combine a couple of peices. I have a router and roundover bit I will use for the finishing on the edge prior to installation. I am also going to use the roundover on the 2" stage and step lips.

Im glad you guys are thinking about me :p

Ronnie

I'd use unfaced as well.. I don't usually wear a mask either (just gloves), unless I insulate for more than a couple hours. A riser is practically nothing for insulation (compared to an entire level of a house, for example).

As for the steps, there are boards with built-in bullnose edges that you can buy that are intended for steps. I'm not sure if they're MDF or particle board, but they're used for that purpose and work great. I definitely wouldn't use two 2x6s though. Much too weak to have nearly as much overhang as what is actually attached to the joist beneath.

Are you going to add some felt paper and another layer of OSB/plywood (total thickness of 1.5")? If so, I'd just use a 2x10/12 and route the top of one edge and be done with it.

Edit: I didn't see your latest post mentioning the 12" depth.. In that case I'd just use a 2x3 and trim it down to the appropriate width and use it at the "toe"/inside part of the step.

I'd use unfaced as well.. I don't usually wear a mask either (just gloves), unless I insulate for more than a couple hours. A stage is practically nothing for insulation (compared to an entire level of a house, for example).

As for the steps, there are boards with built-in bullnose edges that you can buy that are intended for steps. I'm not sure if they're MDF or particle board, but they're used for that purpose and work great. I definitely wouldn't use two 2x6s though. Much too weak to have nearly as much overhang as what is actually attached to the joist beneath.

Are you going to add some felt paper and another layer of OSB/plywood (total thickness of 1.5")? If so, I'd just use a 2x10/12 and route the top of one edge and be done with it.

Edit: I didn't see your latest post mentioning the 12" depth.. In that case I'd just use a 2x3 and trim it down to the appropriate width and use it at the "toe"/inside part of the step.

Just to clarify, this is the seating riser, not the stage.

Yes, as indicated in post 287, It will recieve a layer of roofing felt and another layer of plywood.

For the steps, I will try to find a single peice of wood that can be used. I think a 2x16 cut to the appropriate depth is sufficient. The step is 12x32 and the framing for it covers 70% of the space.

Perhaps we are over analyzing this whole step issue? Crazy arent we? :D

Ronnie

Yes we are - but that's part of what makes it fun :rolleyes: ;) . Personally I think you're better off with a 2x or dedicated bull nose tread than MDF.

lol, sorry for the mess I caused. Ask Steve, it's not the first time :-P

For steps, there are plenty of pre-cut steps out there. Home DEpot, Lowes, Menards, they all carry them. Here is a quick Google hit ( I have no idea who this company is, just using them for their pictures.) It gives you a good idea of what is out there. It might save you some work to just buy a pre-cut step.

http://www.stairsupplies.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWCATS&Category=10&gclid=CJ7xr_m74oMCFRwsOAod2XFs6A

Although MDF is pretty strong, in general, I'd suggest a solid wood tread as well. Simply due to wear issues, and if you do keep a 2" overhang, that is pretty big - so the solid wood is a better option.

Just to clarify, this is the seating riser, not the stage.

Yes, as indicated in post 287, It will recieve a layer of roofing felt and another layer of plywood.

For the steps, I will try to find a single peice of wood that can be used. I think a 2x16 cut to the appropriate depth is sufficient. The step is 12x32 and the framing for it covers 70% of the space.

Perhaps we are over analyzing this whole step issue? Crazy arent we? :D

Ronnie
Oops, yep, I meant to type riser.. just fixed the post.

Yes, I suppose we're over-analyzing, relative to the significance of such an item in the scheme of the whole theater... But as Bryan said, it's what makes it fun..

I competed putting the roofing felt and the 2nd layer of plywood on the seating riser tonight.

This stuff is rather boring, but here are the pics anyway.

Roofing felt on top of first layer of plywood.

http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/riser/P3150004.jpg



And here is the second layer of plywood held down by what seemed like 10 million screws.

http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/riser/P3160008.jpg


Ronnie

Oh ya, dont pay attention to that mdf sitting on the steps. I just had it sitting there in the pics.

I plan to use a solid wood step. Hopefully I can knock that and the rope lighting out tomorrow.

Thanks for everyones input.

Ronnie

I heard its Column Saturday....any truth to that Ronnie :D

Robert

I heard its Column Saturday....any truth to that Ronnie :D

Robert


Im sorry Robert. I didnt get to the columns this weekend. Dont worry, they are coming pretty soon.

I did finish up the seating riser. I still need to add the corner moldings to trim it out, but its basically ready for the carpet now. In fact, I think the whole room is ready for the carpet. I guess I should pick some out huh?

Here are a few shots of the 1/4 oak plywood that I stained and attached all the way around the riser and under each step. Its held on by liquid nails and a few 1/2" staples.

http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/riser/P3180032.jpg

The front side will be faced with carpet.
http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/riser/P3190067.jpg


Ronnie

For the rope lighting, I used this rope light channel that I found at Home Depot. It already has double sided tape on it, so you just remove the backing and stick it in place. I was a little worried that it would not stick, but it seems very sticky and after 2 days, its still up. Once you have the channel up, you just push the rope lighting into place.


http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/riser/P3180011.jpg http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/riser/P3180014.jpg



Here is what the channel looks like installed.
http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/riser/P3180036.jpg
http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/riser/P3180039.jpg

Here is what they look like burning. I dont have them on the grafik eye yet, so this is full-bright. The 2" lip is a perfect size. You cannot see the ropes at all from a standing position, even from a distance.


http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/riser/P3180050.jpg

http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/riser/P3180052.jpg

Here are a few shots with the overhead lights out and only the rope lights on. Once they are on a dimmer (grafik eye) and the carpet is in, It should look pretty good. The carpet should suck up all that light reflecting off the plywood.

http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/riser/P3180058.jpg

http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/riser/P3180059.jpg

Ronnie

Quick question for you guys. Are the pictures im posting to large? Im speaking in terms of size (length & width).

Should I start scaling them down or are these ok?

Ronnie

I set up the seating for a quick test fit. Front row eyes are about 11.5' from screen and rear row eyes are about 17.5'. There is a 2' walkway behind the riser.

http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/seats/P3190079.jpg


I have 30" of space on the left and right side between riser and wall.
http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/seats/P3190082.jpg http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/seats/P3190096.jpg




With the rear seats fully reclined, I have 12" of space between the front row. This allows plenty of space so your feet do not hit the person in front of you. If your not fully reclined, a person can walk in between the rows.

http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/seats/P3190084.jpg


Here is a full shot of all seats reclined.
http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/seats/P3190089.jpg


Looking into theater from doorway.
http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/seats/P3190099.jpg

Thanks again for everyone's input on the riser and seating placement. I'm happy I went with the centered version with all seats as everyone suggested.


Ronnie

Looking good Ronnie ! Johnathan

No the picture size is great...easier to see the details if they are bigger!!!

The riser looks good too, I was wondering if you were using some kind of channel to hold that rope lighting...looks like it should work just fine.

Looks good, keep it up...your on the home streatch...well kinda :D

Robert

Lookin Good Ronnie.

I'm just sitting here wondering how much you dreaded having to lug those chairs back out of the room to do the carpet...

Ronnie,

Damn nice looking!! Nice job with the oak on the sides -- looks very rich.

Here is a full shot of all seats reclined.
http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/seats/P3190089.jpg



That picture made me immediately think of this:

http://www.hankukartchain.co.kr/img/1997-00666_cat_148_large_img1.jpg


It's looking great! Love the riser and how you left room between the footrests and the front row.

Lookin Good Ronnie.

I'm just sitting here wondering how much you dreaded having to lug those chairs back out of the room to do the carpet...


LOL, its really not that bad. They are all components. Each row is 7 pieces. 4 seats and 3 arms.

Ronnie

It's looking great! Love the riser and how you left room between the footrests and the front row.


Thanks Larry. Im glad you like it.

Ronnie

looks great!

I like the ropelight channel. Wish I had done that for my riser lights rather than use the small clips simply because it'd have been easier.

Ronnie,
Excellent work, really looking good. How much room do you have behind your platform and that back door? I have a very similiar situation, so I am curious of how much of an alley u left yourself behind.

-Matt

Ronnie,
Excellent work, really looking good. How much room do you have behind your platform and that back door? I have a very similiar situation, so I am curious of how much of an alley u left yourself behind.

-Matt


Check out Post #307 above. There is 24" of space behind the riser and 30" on each side. It feels ok spacewise when walking through the door. It would be nice to have an extra foot or two, but I cant complain.

Ronnie

Looks great Ronnie... that rope lighting should look amazing once you get the carpet in.

I agree regarding the picture size... more detail the better. That's why we all read these forums, right? :)

Here are a few shots with the overhead lights out and only the rope lights on. Once they are on a dimmer (grafik eye) and the carpet is in, It should look pretty good. The carpet should suck up all that light reflecting off the plywood.

http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/riser/P3180058.jpg

http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/riser/P3180059.jpg

Ronnie

Fantastic job Ronnie! I'm watching your thread. Can't wait to move to the new house on August. More pictures please :D

Btw, where did you buy those rope lights? Are you going to remove the rope lights once you have someone install the carpet on your riser?

Fantastic job Ronnie! I'm watching your thread. Can't wait to move to the new house on August. More pictures please :D

Btw, where did you buy those rope lights? Are you going to remove the rope lights once you have someone install the carpet on your riser?


Thanks. I picked up my rope lighting at Home Depot. You can get this stuff just about anywhere. The rope lighting is under a 2" lip. That should be plenty of room to terminate the carpet without removing the lights.

Ronnie

Im sorry my thread has been slow this week. I have not had much time to do anything exciting. Mostly just finishing up some small boring stuff. Cutting corner molding and staining it for the inside/outside corners of the riser, painting the underside of the soffit black in anticipation of the material, picking up mdf for the light tray, reading up on the forums ;) etc.

I will be out of town next week on business, so no progress will be made then either. At least I can read the forums on the road and do some more playing with the 3D design program. After my return, hopefully it will be COLUMN TIME.

Rsberg/Robert, you ready for that? :D

Ronnie

Ronnie- Great ideas and work so far. What computer program or software are you using to create these sketches/mock-ups? Do you have a website or store name where I could find it?.......Very impressive when debating between styles.

I just built a new home 4,900 sq. ft plus 2,200 sq. ft. walkout lower level. I am almost ready to start my theater and have a dedicated space that is 14 x 26.5 in the lower level. I would like to be able to create these type of 2D views to get a feel for things before having to build it.

Thanks and I look forward to tracking your progress.

Brett

Im sorry my thread has been slow this week. I have not had much time to do anything exciting. Mostly just finishing up some small boring stuff. Cutting corner molding and staining it for the inside/outside corners of the riser, painting the underside of the soffit black in anticipation of the material, picking up mdf for the light tray, reading up on the forums ;) etc.

I will be out of town next week on business, so no progress will be made then either. At least I can read the forums on the road and do some more playing with the 3D design program. After my return, hopefully it will be COLUMN TIME.

Rsberg/Robert, you ready for that? :D

Ronnie


Hell yes.....got the shakes bad man, need that fix ;)

Look forward to seeing them as im sure many do...your design is great and if you put the same detail in them as you have everything else then I am sure they will look awsome.

Robert

What computer program or software are you using to create these sketches/mock-ups? Do you have a website or store name where I could find it
Brett


The software is called sketchup. www.sketchup.com. 30 day fully functional trial program is available.

Ronnie

they used to be a little bitty company that builds a cool 3D modeler. Now they've acquired by Google due to their support of KML export for Google Earth. Google liked them so much they bought them.

Just think Ronnie,.. you can export your home theater to Google Earth and we can all navigate to your house in 3D.

billmac

I made it back safely from California this weekend after a week long business trip.

Excited to get back to working on the theater room.

I plan to start working on the columns and light tray next. Im also ready for carpet, so I have been looking at different styles. Still undecided on the carpet and fabric. Waiting on my GOM samples to come in. Hopefully they wont be as boring as they look on the site. Interested to see what the Network, Raku, Sandpiper, and Hieroglyphics line the carry looks like. Have several colors of each on the way.

Here is the mdf waiting to be cut and put together for the light tray that will go around the perimeter of the soffits. For those of you that followed SandManX/Ruben's thread, my light tray will be similar to his in design.

http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/tray/tray_mdf.jpg


Ronnie

Glad to see you made it back all in one piece

I bet you were glad to recharge the batteries by taking a break from the theater. Sounds like your ready to go now.

I looked at the different colors of GOM on thier site but didnt notice these "styles" you mentioned...I thought we had to basically stick to 701 or am I missing something somewhere?? The group I did see were kinda boring though so Im with you on that.

Did I see mention of columns.....as the clouds parted and a beam of light shown through the angels sang..... ;)

Glad to see you made it back all in one piece

I bet you were glad to recharge the batteries by taking a break from the theater. Sounds like your ready to go now.

I looked at the different colors of GOM on thier site but didnt notice these "styles" you mentioned...I thought we had to basically stick to 701 or am I missing something somewhere?? The group I did see were kinda boring though so Im with you on that.

Did I see mention of columns.....as the clouds parted and a beam of light shown through the angels sang..... ;)

Thanks Robert.

There are hundreds of styles of GOM on their site. I think most stick to 701 because of the cost and audio transparency. Since this is going on the wall, I don't think transparency matters as much. I want to try and find something that is a little more interesting than the 701 line and most know exactly what I mean. I have already found 3-4 really cool fabrics at a wholesaler that I like, but I would have to treat them for fire resistance. Not a big deal and I might end up going that route.

Yes, almost column time. You crack me up with that cloud/light/angel statement. :D


Ronnie

Thank you, Thank you for creating this thread and posting pictures !!!

Your Proscenium is the best design I ever seen in a Home Theater. Love the detailing put in it and hope you don't mind if i copy the design. We are about the start the construction of our house and I have a perfect spot for my HT in the basement. The room dimension is 16X22. With that wide room, 2:35 screen and THE Proscenium like yours will look soooo goood. :)

Thanks for all you detailed picture in your website, it will help a lot when I start the project.

I hooked to this thread now !!!

-Suresh.

Excellent thread Ronnie.
Looks very nice. :)
I am looking forward to seeing pics of your columns as well.

Craig

Ronnie,

Everythings is looking great. Quick question what the dimensions of your sofits? I am trying to decide how big is too big for my room.

Also, whats the height of the upper portion of your stage?

Ryan

P.S. Thanks for the tip on the local source of Linacoustic.

Thank you, Thank you for creating this thread and posting pictures !!!

Your Proscenium is the best design I ever seen in a Home Theater. Love the detailing put in it and hope you don't mind if i copy the design. We are about the start the construction of our house and I have a perfect spot for my HT in the basement. The room dimension is 16X22. With that wide room, 2:35 screen and THE Proscenium like yours will look soooo goood. :)

Thanks for all you detailed picture in your website, it will help a lot when I start the project.

I hooked to this thread now !!!

-Suresh.


Your very welcome Suresh. Take anything you need.

Its just my contribution back to this great community. Let me know if you have any questions that are not answered in this thread or my site.

Again, thanks for your interest.

Ronnie

Ronnie,

Everythings is looking great. Quick question what the dimensions of your sofits? I am trying to decide how big is too big for my room.

Also, whats the height of the upper portion of your stage?

Ryan

P.S. Thanks for the tip on the local source of Linacoustic.


Ryan, the soffits extend 2 feet out from the wall. They descend 1 foot from the ceiling.

The stage is 12" tall. The stage soffit is 15" That leaves 80" of space between stage and soffit.

Maybe this will help.
http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/dimensions.jpg

Ronnie

Ryan, one more thing. I am building a light tray that will extend 5" out from the soffit.

Ronnie

Ronnie,

Have you made a decision on the star ceiling yet? I think with a few can extenders you could leave your current cans in place and you wouldnt even notice tsmall spots without stars. I have been watching Buds build as well and I like that Georgian Bay color he has on his ceiling....I was thinking of using that on the sides of the soffets where the rope light would go...might give a fade to black night sky affect with the star ceiling.

Robert

Ronnie,

Have you made a decision on the star ceiling yet? I think with a few can extenders you could leave your current cans in place and you wouldnt even notice the small spots without stars. I have been watching Buds build as well and I like that Georgian Bay color he has on his ceiling....I was thinking of using that on the sides of the soffets where the rope light would go...might give a fade to black night sky affect with the star ceiling.

Robert

hmmmm guess I liked that idea so much I posted it twice....damn computers, LOL

Yes, I want to do a star ceiling. I painted the soffits black last night. Im not sure im going to have rope lighting in the tray yet or not. Im thinking of only doing small can lights.

Ronnie

The weather in Dallas this weekend was so beautiful, I spent most of my time outside doing yardwork and getting caught up on a few things around the house that I have been putting off.

I did manage to spend a few hours on the HT though. I put up a quick coat of black paint on the soffits (side & underneath) in preperation for the light tray and the fabric for the underside.


Olympic Premium Interior Latex flat black paint.

http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/tray/soffit-paint.jpg


Ronnie

I also completed building 3 sections of the light trays this weekend. I would have hung them tonight, but I didnt realize I was out of long screws until it was to late to go get some.

I made the trays out of 3/4 mdf. The bottom of the tray is 10" wide and the side is 5" tall. They will be mounted to my existing soffit using the 10" wide piece. 5" will remain under the soffit and 5" will stick out. They will be veneered and stained to match the rest of the woodwork. I plan on placing some small 4" cans in the tray to illuminiate each of my columns. I may also put some rope lighting on the topside of the tray.


The trays were glued, screwed, and clamped together until dry. I countersank all the screwholes.

The glue I used.
http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/tray/glue.jpg


Counter Sinks:

http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/tray/countersink.jpg http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/tray/screw-countersink.jpg


Here a shot of one drying up with the clamps on.

http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/tray/tray_clamp.jpg


Finally, I have 3 of them completed.

http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/tray/3-trays.jpg

Ronnie

Those are some serious clamps Ronnie lol.

lookin good bud....I have to agree those clamps arnt messin around huh. Just another thing to add to the ever growing list of stuff I need for when its my turn.

BTW...not to hijack your thread but...I finally got reliable measurements from my wife for the basment in the new house...silly how you can get excited about something as simple as measurements but...looks like after initial emails with BPAPE that I will end up with about 17'7" wide and roughly 23' long after drywall. I had initially thought the area was only15 by 20 so thats good news...I cant wait to get started to try to follow yours, Buds and a few others designs and concepts.

Keep it up Ronnie....Im startin to get the feeling that the home theater clouds will soon part and shed some light on those cool looking columns of your :D

Robert

Sorry....I know your doing other work thats good and the light trays do look good (as does everything) but, addicts just cant help themselves...its truely a disease!

That column addiction is rough man :D

Those are some serious clamps Ronnie lol.

Lol. Ya, they are a bit overkill for that simple job, but they are all I had. They are excellent clamps for all kinds of jobs.

Ronnie

I need some help from you guys again. My GOM samples came in today and there were only a few that we liked. One in particular that the wife and I both seemed to like was from the network collection and its called Sapphire.

Please let me know what you think of this material and color. Be honest. If it sucks, let me know.


Here is the fabric sample shot from their site. Its just a little darker in the pic than it looks in real life, but its pretty close.
http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/gom/network-sapphire.jpg

Here is the sample next to the black soffit and woodwork using a flash. The flash makes the material appear lighter.
http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/gom/gom.jpg


This shot is without the flash and more closely represents the real color.
http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/gom/gom3.jpg


Should I keep looking? Are my eyes deceiving me? Does it match well? Will it allow the woodwork to stand out?

Thanks
Ronnie

Ronnie,

I had that sample, and I like it, but I think the one I had was more gray. I think Jerrod is planning on a version of it as well, or a version was in the running on his theater. I always try and think if I'd like it 2-3 years. It'll be a bear to pull down with thousands of staples if you decide later you don't. Your wood is pretty dark, I would think a lighter color would make the wood stand out, but we all know we don't want to be too light. Anyway, enough "thinking".

I wanted to mention to test that fabric with your stapler. I found my wall fabric definitely has different characteristics from the 2100 material. The 2100 tends to be heavier and it is resistent to pulls, either frayed or stapled. Just be aware that it may not go up as nice as the other stuff. I was thinking that your upholstery border or whatever you used on the black soffit above the stage may help with the staple pulls as well.

Bud

Ronnie,

I suggest you keep looking, or at the very least get a larger sample to have a look at. Here's why:

I was looking to use the same pattern, but diff color (cappucino I think). I really liked it on the website and the sample swatch. But when I looked at it in a 1 yard sample hanging on my walls it was too much. Glad I spent the $20 or so to get the 1yd piece. It was worth it and convinced me to skip it and move on. From the photo it looks like the blue color will be rather vibrant and may be too busy, especially over a large surface.

But that's only my personal opinion based on my tastes, so take it for what it's worth. Just that: an opinion. If you lreally like it then pay no never mind to my comments and just do it. It's your taste that will make it fly for you or not.

Good luck whatever you decide. Your theater looks great so sure you'll select what goes best.


Regards,
Doc

I installed the 3 completed sections of the light tray tonight. I assembled and hung the full sections first. I will need to measure and cut the rest to fit.



Rear left corner:
http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/tray/P4100017.jpg



Front right:
http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/tray/P4100018.jpg

Ronnie

Yeah I have to agree Ronnie...I think it might be too dark to really showcase that great wood work you have done. I like the pattern and after you told me about the other stuff they had I went and looked at them as well. I like some of the patterns they offer but in your case with that darker wood I might try to lighten up the walls a bit...not too much obviously but a little lighter than that.

Just my humble opinion of course. I plan to go with a lighter stain on the wood in my room so the darker fabric might be ok, but in your case im not so sure...I just hate to see you be unhappy with the finnished product a few months down the line since you put so much effort into the wood trim and it looks so nice.

Robert

Ronnie,

It's hard to tell from the pics... are the MDF light trays just screwed to the edge of your existing soffits? If so, how do you plan to hide the 3/4 raised area created by the MDF? Do you plan to build some type of 3/4" thick frame and cover that with GOM? If I'm missing the obvious, just tell me ;)

Ronnie,

It's hard to tell from the pics... are the MDF light trays just screwed to the edge of your existing soffits? If so, how do you plan to hide the 3/4 raised area created by the MDF? Do you plan to build some type of 3/4" thick frame and cover that with GOM? If I'm missing the obvious, just tell me ;)


Steve, You are right on track. I will be making some frames that will go under the soffit. They will be covered with black GOM or speaker cloth. Yes, they are screwed to the existing soffit.


Whats your take on the GOM wall fabric I posted above? Be honest.

Ronnie

Steve, You are right on track. I will be making some frames that will go under the soffit. They will be covered with black GOM or speaker cloth.


Whats your take on the GOM wall fabric I posted above? Be honest.

Ronnie
Media rooms are supposed to be dark. Look at my walls -- dark chocolate brown. My stain will be a little lighter than yours, though. As far as the pattern, I like it. You could also tie it together with a complementary ceiling paint (like Bud did). I talked to my wife about a "night sky" ceiling color for our room and she liked the idea.

Not sure if I answered your question but it really is personal taste. We decided to go solid vs. a patterned look for our wall fabric. Others may not like our choices (and I am fine with that). I think chinadog/Bud had some really sound advice: "Look 3-4 years in the future and think.. Will still like the color and patterns then?"

Ronnie,

I'm a newbie in this forum. All I can say is..."I'm not worthy!!!" I did finish my basement, wired everything into a hidden closet, and built a 110" screen (bought the daLite material off e-bay), but nothing as elaborate as what you are doing. I thought I did a pretty good job...until I say yours!

Anyway, I am looking for some home theater seatings. Got anywhere you can point me?

Thanks and I'm eager to see you compete the project!

Vinny

Vinuxd, thanks for the kind words. I cant wait until its finished either.

As far as chairs go, im not sure what to tell you. I had been looking at the dealers for some Berklines when I ran across a guy that was selling his 2 rows because he was moving. Lucky find, so I grabbed them and saved a ton of money.

Use the search feature on this forum for your chairs and I am sure you will find a lot of info.

Ronnie

I finished building and hanging the rest of the light tray tonight. I just need to bondo the seams and screw holes and it will be ready for the veneer.


http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/tray/P4110024.jpg

http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/tray/P4110015.jpg

http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/tray/P4110018.jpg

http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/tray/P4110023.jpg

Im still hung up on that Network-Sapphire fabric. I had it pinned to the wall and I kept looking at it as I worked on the trays. I think I will take BKDOCS's advice and get a 1 yard sample. With the 8" sample that I have, the pattern almost seems to dissapear at about 5 feet away. It still may also be a little dark.

This fabric and carpet selection process seems to be harder than all the other work combined. Anyone else feel that way? I hate it.

Anyway, I also have 9 other samples on the way, so maybe one of them will save the day.


Ronnie

You made fairly short work of those light trays, do they match the curves of the previous wood work they butt up to? Its kind of hard to tell in that last pic but it looks like they but flat up agains the curved wood leaving a small gap. My eyes could be playing tricks on me though.

Robert

There's one way to deal with the color issue - just go black. ;)

I finished building and hanging the rest of the light tray tonight. I just need to bondo the seams and screw holes and it will be ready for the veneer.
Ronnie,

The light trays look great! If you need any tips on the veneering, please ping me. Yours will be a bit more challenging since you have to apply the veneer "upside down". However, the end result should be outstanding.

BTW, the place I got mine has oak veneer, so you should have no problem getting what you need at a reasonable price ($35 for 4x8 sheet 10mill paperbacked).

You made fairly short work of those light trays, do they match the curves of the previous wood work they butt up to? Its kind of hard to tell in that last pic but it looks like they but flat up agains the curved wood leaving a small gap. My eyes could be playing tricks on me though.

Robert


Ya, they were pretty easy to make.

Yes, they follow the curve of the front soffit where they meet. There is a very small gap, maybe 1/8". I will hide any issues with trim or maybe make the veneer extend over the small gap.

Ronnie

There's one way to deal with the color issue - just go black. ;)

Lol, you must not be married. :D

Ronnie

Robert/Rsberg34..... Guess what? I have some exciting news for you :D


Can you guess what it is?



Even though it was Easter weekend, I managed to spend some time on the columns. I made a few mockups out of 1/4 plywood to determine the best looking size and shape. Here is a shot of the final mockup. It ended up being 15" deep at the top and 7" deep at the bottom. I have 10" or greater from about 1/2 way up. That should allow plenty of room for the surrounds. The mockup is 16" wide, but I am making the final colums 13" wide.


Mockups:

http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/columns/P4160030.jpg

http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/columns/P4160029.jpg

Here are the design pics again in case you dont want to browse through the thread:

http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/cm2b.jpg http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/cm2c.jpg


http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/cm2.jpg

Ronnie

Picked up 3 sheets of 3/4 Oak plywood (7-ply) at $40 each. I decided to use the oak plywood because it was more cost effective than making them out of MDF and them veneering them. It also saves me a lot of work.


The plywood:

http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/columns/P4160027.jpg

Ronnie - Looking good!

Problem I've always found with cutting curves into ply is splintering......hope you have better luck.


Cheers,
Mark

In order to cut the radius and make a really nice clean smooth curve, I used the plywood from my mockup for a jig/template. I clamped the jig/template in place over the oak plywood and used a skill saw. For those of you who wonder how to cut curves using a skill saw, its pretty easy. I set the depth on the saw so that it would only go into the oak about 1/4" for the first cut and followed the jig making sure to keep the saw up against it. I reset the depth on the saw to about 1/2" and made a 2nd cut. Finally, I set the depth of the saw to go all the way through the oak for the 3rd cut. Using multiple shallow cuts allows the skill saw to follow curves. You would be suprised at how tight of a curve you can make with this method.



Here are a few pics after the first 1/4" depth cut. You can see that it barely goes into the oak and follows the jig nicely.
http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/columns/P4160031.jpg

http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/columns/P4160034.jpg

I was able to get 4 sides out of a single sheet of plywood. Enough to finish 2 columns. The curves came out nice and clean. I just need to assemble them now. I hope to have them completed and ready for stain by the weekend.

http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/columns/P4160035.jpg


Ronnie

Ronnie - Looking good!

Problem I've always found with cutting curves into ply is splintering......hope you have better luck.


Cheers,
Mark

Mark, I did not have any issues at all. They were all very nice clean cuts with no splintering at all on either side. There are a few tricks.

1. Use a good blade with lots of teeth for a fine cut.
2. If using a skill-saw, make sure the good side is down.
3. On a table-saw, the good side goes up.
4. Take it nice and slow.
5. Use multiple shallow cuts for curves.

Another thing I was told, but not sure if it helps, is to adjust the depth of the blade so that it barely extends beyond the edge of the surface you are cutting.


Ronnie

Oh, I'm most definitely married - 27 years now.

But, that's MY room. The rest of the house can be decorated however she wants. I'll paint any color she wants (except lime green and pink). I'll go whatever she wants with carpet, foof pillows on the beds, etc. The theater is mine. Black ceiling, black front wall, black leather furniture, exposed speakers (2 channel tweaking nut), HUGE sub, etc.

She knew I was an audio head when she married me. I had a pair of Acoustat Monitor IV's (5.5' tall, 4' wide, exposed tube amps in the rear, etc.) pulled out 4' from the front wall in our 12x14 living room.

Gotta train 'em early...

LOL, I was just messing with you Brian. 27 years, wow. 18 for us. I hope she doesnt see that training comment. :eek:

I need to get with you in the near future and buy some of that scrim. Thats about the only thing I cant find locally. Actually I can find it, but everyone wants me to buy this huge roll thats like a mile long :rolleyes: I will shoot you an email about it this week.

Ronnie

Yeah - I know - forgot my winkie (no comments from the peanut gallery...)

We got married pretty young. Seriously, she's pretty cool about it. She's a pseudo-techie and a serious bass head. She loves the ContraBass.

As for the scrim, I know what you mean. The only way I get it is from the guy that I wholesale my OC products from.

Ronnie,

Things are looking sweeeet!

Bud mentioned a while back I was looking at a similar GOM. It's the one on the right.....
http://pics.loosechangerocks.net/img6027.jpg

We're not going to do that one anymore because, as some others mentioned, will we get tired of that design after a few years....??? Granted, it is much lighter and would be more noticeable than what you're looking at.

I love those columns. I might have to hijack that idea and do something like that because man it makes such a huge difference compared to normal rectangular columns. Very nice!

Ronnie,

Nice job of the jig and cutting technique. I might need to file that away for use later :) Glad you got some HT work done. My wife had me out in the front doing landscaping all weekend.

*** WARNING - Unrelated thread topic ***

Landscaping sucks!!!

*** WARNING - Unrelated thread topic ***

Landscaping sucks!!!
Jerrod,

I (really) hate doing it too -- but love the results. The sunburn is only a short-term side effect :D

Ronnie,

Things are looking sweeeet!

Bud mentioned a while back I was looking at a similar GOM. It's the one on the right.....

We're not going to do that one anymore because, as some others mentioned, will we get tired of that design after a few years....??? Granted, it is much lighter and would be more noticeable than what you're looking at.

I love those columns. I might have to hijack that idea and do something like that because man it makes such a huge difference compared to normal rectangular columns. Very nice!

Jerrod, ya, thats the same stuff, but yours looks like a different color. Im still undecided.

I don't buy into the "tired of it in 2 years" deal. I don't plan on redoing any of this cosmetic stuff once its done. Money can be better spent on equipment upgrades, not fabric. Hell, I may not even own this home in 2 years :) . My plan is to pick something that looks good to me and a potential buyer down the road.

Hijack away. Thats what we are here for.


Ronnie

I did all my yardwork last weekend. I know what you guys mean. Its one of those weird jobs that you hate and love at the same time.

Ronnie

I'm paying a landscaper to do my yard. He starts on Wednesday. The wife and I planted a ton of plants last spring, and I laid 3 tons of river gravel as mulch. About 2/3 of the plants are dead now, so I said screw it. No mas!

I enjoy the indoor work, except insulation, so I won't sub any of that out... at least not yet.

The wife and I planted a ton of plants last spring, and I laid 3 tons of river gravel as mulch. About 2/3 of the plants are dead now, so I said screw it. No mas!
Jerrod,

LOL!! Sorry you had bad luck on your planting. We had a few die over the years ourselves. Hope the final "re-do" give you a longer life-expectancy :D

All I can say is " 1 year warranty" so it will be OK! Back to your regularly scheduled HT build.

9 more samples of GOM arrived today. Im still not impressed.

Should this be so hard?

Ronnie

Isn't that one of the reasons we have wives? To help us with these things? (well, I don't have one..yet so I am SOL lol)

Good one. lol

9 more samples of GOM arrived today. Im still not impressed.

Should this be so hard?

Ronnie
Yes, a PITA. I must have about 75 samples at my house right now. If they only had a "book" of all the samples we could look at locally, it would save a lot of hassle.

Just as Yldesyde said, the wife does help on this. I had her look through them and she pulled out about 98% of them. Then we sat down with the finalists, taped them to the wall and started eliminating until we arrived at our decision.

Don't give up, you'll find something that will work :)

The wife does help with this stuff. She has a very good eye for interior decorating and colors schemes. The problem is that out of 23 samples, there is only 2 that are even worth adding to the keep stack. And those two dont even really do anything for us. The sample pics on the site do not look anything like the real fabric which makes the process take longer. Dont get me wrong, the GOM is nice and has some cool colors and patterns, just nothing that im interested in for the theater yet.

I agree Steve, If there were a place we could go locally and look it would be perfect. Thats the thing I loved about the wholesale fabric places over on Harry Hines Blvd., They had massive warehouses full of fabrics, but nothing is fire treated. I may just go that route and treat it myself.

Ronnie

Ronnie - Looking good!

Problem I've always found with cutting curves into ply is splintering......hope you have better luck.


Cheers,
Mark

Ronnie's technique is good. If you have several pieces that have the same radiused curve you can sandwich them together and make all of the cuts at once. This is what I did for the plywood at my arches. Having multiple layers kept it from splintering and all of the curves matched exactly.

Mark, I did not have any issues at all. They were all very nice clean cuts with no splintering at all on either side. There are a few tricks.

1. Use a good blade with lots of teeth for a fine cut.
2. If using a skill-saw, make sure the good side is down.
3. On a table-saw, the good side goes up.
4. Take it nice and slow.
5. Use multiple shallow cuts for curves.

Another thing I was told, but not sure if it helps, is to adjust the depth of the blade so that it barely extends beyond the edge of the surface you are cutting.


Ronnie

Great Tips - what size Skill Saw (you mean a circular saw - right?) I would think you would need a small one depending on the curvature.

No curves planned in my HT (yet) :D

Cheers,
Mark

Great Tips - what size Skill Saw (you mean a circular saw - right?) I would think you would need a small one depending on the curvature.

No curves planned in my HT (yet) :D

Cheers,
Mark

Skill saw, circular saw, same thing I think. Mine is 10" (the saw ;) ). You can cut a very tight curve making mutltiple very shallow cuts. Even circles. You would be extremely surprised how tight. Try it on a scrap peice and see for yourself.

You can see my saw and the radius in the pics.

Ronnie

Thanks Ronnie - I couldn't get past my logic of straight blade and curve......but the proof is evident!

Great job so far!

Thanks Ronnie - I couldn't get past my logic of straight blade and curve......but the proof is evident!

Great job so far!

Ya, I had a hard time with that also. I saw a lot of how-to websites that used this method. Still in dis-belief, I tried it a couple of times on scrap peices. It works perfectly.

Ronnie

9 more samples of GOM arrived today. Im still not impressed.

Should this be so hard?

Ronnie

As Steve mentioned, its a pain in the butt. I tried to let the carpet dictate the color and pattern, figuring I'd do something basic on the wall if I got something cool for the floor. I ended up striking out on the carpet, so went the other direction, but it took months. Now I'm looking at something very basic for carpeting. I don't want any clashes.

Bud

Ya, Bud, its tough. My thinking is that it will be easier to pick out the carpet after I choose the wall fabric.

Ronnie

Here is another choice of fabric that I have in the keep pile. Still not fully impressed, but its the best of the 23 I have looked at so far.


GOM Sample from thier site:

Sandpiper 9791 in 1342 shore color:

http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/fabric/sandpiper-shore.jpg


My pics. The color is a little light and has a bluish tint with the camera. The GOM site sample above is closer to the real color.

http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/fabric/P4200033.jpg


Any thoughts?

Ronnie

Here is another choice of fabric that I have in the keep pile. Still not fully impressed, but its the best of the 23 I have looked at so far.


GOM Sample from thier site:

Sandpiper 9791 in 1342 shore color:

http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/fabric/sandpiper-shore.jpg

Any thoughts?

Ronnie
Ronnie,

I like it. The black in it will tie in well with all the black GOM/speaker cloth you have on the front stage and in your seating. It seems to have a slight green/gray hue to it which you could tie into your dark "undertermined" ceiling color somehow (kind of like what Bud did).

Ronnie,

I like it. The black in it will tie in well with all the black GOM/speaker cloth you have on the front stage and in your seating. It seems to have a slight green/gray hue to it which you could tie into your dark "undertermined" ceiling color somehow (kind of like what Bud did).


The Green/Grey is something in the lighting an my camera. It really looks more like the sample from thier site. It has an earthtone color to it. Dark Tan with a slight olive tint to it.

Ronnie

Looks good. I like the blue version as well.

http://www.silentsource.com/gom_sandpiper.html

Bud

Looks good. I like the blue version as well.

http://www.silentsource.com/gom_sandpiper.html

Bud

I have that sample. its actually a whole lot lighter in person than the sample shows. Way to light for me.

Ronnie

Ah, got it. I guess thats why we get the samples.

Bud

Ah, got it. I guess thats why we get the samples.

Bud

I have 5 of the sandpiper series. The Shore color is the darkest. The blue "currents" color looks more like a light grey to me.

Ronnie

If you want a dark blue, request the Lido Huron (055). The Heartland (064) is more or a brown/tan and is nice as well. Both seem darker than the pictures. I have both here.

http://www.silentsource.com/gom_lido.html

Bud

If you want a dark blue, request the Lido Huron (055). The Heartland (064) is more or a brown/tan and is nice as well. Both seem darker than the pictures. I have both here.

http://www.silentsource.com/gom_lido.html

Bud


Thanks Bud. I dont have those yet. I would not have ordered them based on the sample pic, but based on your suggestion, I will have a sample sent over.

Ronnie

Ronnie,

I second the Heartland, that is what I using along with black columns and dark wood molding. Then all blend well, at least they do on the floor where they are sitting waiting for my lazy butt to finish the false front wall:)

J-dubb

Ronnie,

I second the Heartland, that is what I using along with black columns and dark wood molding. Then all blend well, at least they do on the floor where they are sitting waiting for my lazy butt to finish the false front wall:)

J-dubb

Cool, any pics or a construction thread of your progress so far?

Ronnie

For those of you looking for darker material, the Spinel Obsidian is pretty cool. Its very dark with touches of brown. The sample I recieved looks nice, but is a little to dark for me.

http://www.silentsource.com/gom_spinel.html (http://http://www.silentsource.com/gom_spinel.html)


Ronnie

Trying to find a GOM sample that looks good sucks.
648 channels and nothing's on so to speak.

I think I've decided on the Charcoal Gray. Boring.

Trying to find a GOM sample that looks good sucks.
648 channels and nothing's on so to speak.




Very true. And they only allow you to watch 9 channels at a time per week.



Ronnie

Here is another choice of fabric that I have in the keep pile. Still not fully impressed, but its the best of the 23 I have looked at so far.

My pics. The color is a little light and has a bluish tint with the camera. The GOM site sample above is closer to the real color.

http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/fabric/P4200033.jpg

Any thoughts?

Ronnie

Ronnie, That is the exact fabric I'm thinking of using. Go back up and check out post #372 and you'll see that exact same one. I like it, and think I am still going to use it unless I find something else.

Ronnie,

I had not started a thread yet. I wanted to, but I did not think I could keep it up to date like you work-a-maniacs. Maybe a weekend soon I can get that done.

J-dubb

Ronnie, That is the exact fabric I'm thinking of using. Go back up and check out post #372 and you'll see that exact same one. I like it, and think I am still going to use it unless I find something else.

LOL, thats pretty funny. Our 2 choices that we like are exactly the same fabrics.

Its really hard to get camera's to give you the correct color. Notice how different our 2 pics look even though its the exact same fabrics?

The wife and a few friends actually didnt like the sandpiper, but I do. They said it looks dirty. They still favor the saphire color from the network collection I posted back in #345

Ronnie

Ronnie,

I had not started a thread yet. I wanted to, but I did not think I could keep it up to date like you work-a-maniacs. Maybe a weekend soon I can get that done.

J-dubb

You dont have to go into the fine details like some of us do. All we need is the highlights and lots of pics!!!

Now quit replying to everyones threads and start posting..... :D :D

Ronnie

I made some progress on 1 of the columns last night. I spent a few hours putting the sides together as well as building the top and bottom caps.

The following 2 pics are for YLDESYDE and RSBERG. I know they want to see some clampage :D





Glued and finish nailed the supports into column.


http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/columns/P4200062.jpg




Gluing the bottom cap together.


http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/columns/P4200045.jpg


Ronnie

Here is a shot of the end caps. The larger on goes on top.
http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/columns/P4200055.jpg





I will be trimming out all the edges. Here is what the trim pieces will look like.

http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/columns/P4200056.jpg

I test fitted it so make sure everything would fit together properly. Next I need to stain all the peices, install the trim, and put the grill cloth on.

Im thinking about routing a small groove down the front edge of each side and using the rubber spline that you would do screen repairs with to hold it in place. Still need to test it, but thats the plan. I would then put some 1/2 round or similar molding down the front edges to cover up the spline.

This method would look like this.
http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/columns/screen.jpg



http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/columns/P4210064.jpg



Bottom
http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/columns/P4210065.jpg



Top

http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/columns/P4210068.jpg




Ronnie

Looks great. Is that an oak plywood?

Bud

Looks great. Is that an oak plywood?

Bud

Yes, its 3/4" Oak plywood. Check out post #364 on page 13. I used the plywood because it was more cost effective and less steps to build than going with MDF and veneer.

Ronnie

'Clampage' - Gotta love it :D

First thing I thought of when I read that was cleavage in a push up bra...

Hi,

nice work. I'm really looking forward to see the final result.

greets
Vuko

The following 2 pics are for YLDESYDE and RSBERG. I know they want to see some clampage :D

RonnieI know I'd rather see some cleavage than clampage but somehow I don't think this is the right forum!

Edit: Didn't even see bpape's message until after I posted!

Ronnie, those are some seriously nice columns, even in the rough stages. I've enjoyed reading your thread a great deal. I can't waint until I have the time to being building out my theater.

Joseph

Ditto, I love the columns! Those will look sweet once they're finished and stained.

Love the cloumn !!!

Keep up the good work Ronnie!!!

Jeez Ronnie, next I will give you the middle name of Norm Avery from TOH. How many differnet styles of clamps do you have? Have you done other woodworking?

I'm just giving you a hard time. The columns look great!

Jeez Ronnie, next I will give you the middle name of Norm Avery from TOH.

Isn't it Norm Abram? :)

Nelson

Ronnie,

Nice Columns! You're making me re-think my column design. I don't think the wife would go for it, though (not because of the design but rather the extra time I would need to spend rebuilding my columns.. hmm, a 3RD time!).

Jeez Ronnie, next I will give you the middle name of Norm Avery from TOH. How many differnet styles of clamps do you have? Have you done other woodworking?

I'm just giving you a hard time. The columns look great!


LOL, Actually this is my first attempt at real woodworking. I dont have any experience at all. I consider myself a fairly handy guy and with the right guidance and direction, I feel confident with most of my endeavors. Things may not turn out top notch, but its close enough for me and I get great satisfaction in having done it myself.

I borrowed all the clamps from my brother. He has all kinds of cool tools and use to do a lot of woodworking.


Thanks to everyone for the kind comments on the columns so far. I hope they turn out nice.

Ronnie

My daughters 16th birthday was this weekend, so I had a pretty full weekend with that going on. Lots of friends and family over. We got her a 2002 volkswagon beetle and surprised her with it after school on Friday. My wife picked her up from school that day. When they got home, she opened the garage to come in and found her surprise. Man was she excited. She had no idea.


I managed to work on the theater stuff today for a little while. I finished up another column. Had to use those big clamps again........ :D

I also trimmed out the bases and put the first coat of stain on them. I have to put another coat on, touch up some light spots, and then poly. Getting closer to finishing these damn things.

I also picked up some rubber screen spline so I can begin experimenting with attaching the speaker fabric.

Here are a few shots of the trimmed out bases.

http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/columns/P4230075.jpg

http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/columns/P4230076.jpg

http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/columns/P4230086.jpg


Ronnie

Love the columns - awesome. I plan on stealing that from you. It is really well done,

Gary

No problem Gary. Steal away.


Just a note to myself and those that are staining. Bud had this issue also. When you fill in those small nail holes, its very important to sand the crap out of the wood to remove any filler that might have made its way onto the rest of the wood. If you dont clean this up really well, you will find light spots that dont quite match. Its an easy fix, but much easier if you do it right the first time. I have cleaned them up now and you dont notice them like you do in the pics above. On the next 2 columns I build, I will make sure to keep them really clean and sanded and see how it works out. Hopefully no touchups will be needed for the remaining builds.

Ronnie

I put up a bunch of stained casing yesterday. I actually stained and polyed (damn spell check) it all first, then used a brad nailer to install it. I then used a matching stain filler from Minwax to fill the small holes. Works much better that way than the way I did the jambs.

Bud

I put up a bunch of stained casing yesterday. I actually stained and played it all first, then used a brad nailer to install it. I then used a matching stain filler from Minwax to fill the small holes. Works much better that way than the way I did the jambs.

Bud


That would work also. Thanks for the tip Bud.

Its all trial and error with us noobs...... ;)

Ronnie

It looks like the double sided adhesive that came with the rope light tracks may not work as well as I thought. I came in this evening and noticed a few places where it had came loose and was hanging down. I guess I will need to add a few screws or staples to hold it in place long term.

No big deal, just alerting those of you who may also try this.


Ronnie

I like the stain. Did you post what brand/color you used?

I like the stain. Did you post what brand/color you used?

Ya, its on one of the pages somewhere and on my website.

I used MinWax English Chestnut .

Ronnie

I think I have figured out how im going to do the speaker screens for my columns. First I thought I would just attach the fabric to the front edge of the oak plywood and then cover this up with 1/2 round molding, but that meant I would have to remove the column from the wall in order to service anything inside it.

I decided to try making a frame that would match the curve of the columns and cover that with fabric. This would allow me to have a removable screen that I could insert into the column. I would add several blocks on each side to act as stops for the screen frame. Small peices of velcro could also be added to hold them in place although a friction fit will probably be all I need.

Anyway, here is a mockup frame. I used plywood for the mockup, but will probably go with MDF for the final product. I will also probably add a few more supports across the frame. This was just a quickie to see if it would even work.

http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/columns/P4260084.jpg


Here is a shot of the framing placed into the column and held in place by friction only.

http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/columns/P4260086.jpg


I grabbed some extra speaker fabric, stretched it across the frame, and inserted it into the column. It has a very clean look and I like the fact that its easily removable.

http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/columns/P4260088.jpg



I do have a question for you guys though.
Do you like the look of having the panel recessed into the column or should I make it flush? There will be some 1/2 round or similar molding placed onto the front edge of the columns that is not installed yet, so that will add a little to the front.


Ronnie

Ronnie,

I think I like it recessed but could you post a pic with it flush so we can compare?

Hi, I dont post to much but I have to say THAT LOOKS SWEET.

Recessed looks good but be useful to see a flush version for comparison.

Not sure about using thin strips of MDF - it tends to be weak in thin strips.

Amazing work!

Cheers,
Mark

Here are the two options.

Recessed or flush?

Remember, I will have a small trim piece on the front edge.

http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/columns/P4260088.jpg http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/columns/P4260093.jpg


Ronnie

Not sure about using thin strips of MDF - it tends to be weak in thin strips.

Mark


Thanks Mark, I had the same thoughts. Do you think particle board would be better? The strips will be 1/2 inch board cut into curved strips about 1-1.5 inches wide. The 1/2" part would face the front. The braces helped a lot with the plywood to strengthen it up, so I am thinking a few more supports would make it pretty sturdy.

Thoughts anyone?

Ronnie

Ronnie,

They both look great, I like the recessed just a little bit more. I think it adds depth to the column. It might also protect the fabric a little from prople rubbing on it when they walk by. Over time that may fray the edge of the fabric.

I like the look, but I'd compromise between the two. Do it recessed, but half the original picture. Leave yourself about an inch or less of the edged revealed. Are the edges rounded over?

My opinionated 2 cents!

Bud

I am with Bud - recessed, but not as deeply.

Another vote for Buds idea.

Also, Ronnie, instead of the molding on the exposed edges, put on some iron-on oak edging for a clean look. It's very easy to apply and will match the oak ply you already have.

Lastly, I'd just go with the 1/2 ply (or even 5/8") for the frame. MDF will get a bit weak being that thin width wise (even if you use 3/4").

I like it recessed. As stated, it adds depth and makes a different look when viewing from an angle...

recessed 1"-2" and use plywood for better strength. looking really good


gk

I have a question regarding the use of MDF in your design for your speaker columns. Judging from your prototype, you have solid material on both sides of your column....will that affect the sound that is produced from your speakers inside the columns?

I have a question regarding the use of MDF in your design for your speaker columns. Judging from your prototype, you have solid material on both sides of your column....will that affect the sound that is produced from your speakers inside the columns?


The column you see is not a prototype. Thats the real thing. 3/4" oak.

Its the speaker grill that I am prototyping right now.

A lot of people use columns to hide thier speakers. My speakers will be at the front edge of the column. The side material wont interfere with the firing line of the drivers.

Ronnie

Thanks for all the comments so far guys.

Steve, I dont really want a flat sharp edge. I prefer something rounded. I picked up some oak 3/4" shoe molding tonight. Its also very easy to apply.

Ronnie

I brought the grill out even with the edge of the plywood and then clamped a piece of the molding to the front. This gives it about 1/2" of depth. Only the left side has the molding. Dont pay attention to the right side.

Is this a good compromise? The wife said go with this look, but I have to ask you guys anyway :p shhhhhhhhhhhhhh..... dont tell her.

http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/columns/P4260100.jpg http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/columns/P4260102.jpg


http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/columns/P4260103.jpg



Ronnie

I definately like the rounded look with some recess. Looks like a winner!

Bud

WOW!!!

I read your entire thread just now. I really like what you've got going. Most of all, I'm impressed with your process. My weakest link is in not wanting to re-do or prototype work. Your thread is an excellent example of how and why it pays off.

Good luck with the rest of it!

I definately like the rounded look with some recess. Looks like a winner!

Bud

+1

Joseph

Ronnie - My vote goes for the rounded look with some recess.

I think using ply for the frame will be stronger than using MDF or particle board.

Cheers,
Mark

WOW!!!

I read your entire thread just now. I really like what you've got going. Most of all, I'm impressed with your process. My weakest link is in not wanting to re-do or prototype work. Your thread is an excellent example of how and why it pays off.

Good luck with the rest of it!


Thanks Tony. Im an engineer, so I guess its in my nature to test things out before they go into production. Better to find out it doesnt work on the scraps then to try it on the big $$ stuff.

Some people may think its a waste of time, and I sometimes hate doing it myself, but it pays off in the long run.

Ronnie

Thanks to everyone for the comments and ideas so far on the column grills.

Sounds like everyone likes the slightly recessed look. Maybe another 1/4-1/2" recess would be just right. Im going to finish these things off this weekend hopefully. Once I build the 1st production grill, I will take a few more shots with a slightly more recessed look. Once you guys give me the OK, I will secure the backstops the the grill will rest against. The molding will also be done so i dont have to do any clampage! :D

Ronnie

That's the way to go Ronnie.

I made another mockup of the column grills tonight using some scrap particle board. I wanted to see how well it would hold up. It seems to be plenty stable for use as a grill that most likely will never be removed except 1 or 2 times. I may still buy a sheet of 1/2" ply and use that, but I think this is plenty. I used 6 cross braces on 16" centers except for the top section. I left 30 inches open up top as to not interfere with speakers.

I also covered it with fabric and secured it with a minimal amount of staples to hold it.

I think I finally have this figured out. Now I cant wait for the weekend to finish them off.


Here are some shot of the grill.

http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/columns/P4270008.jpg http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/columns/P4270009.jpg http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/columns/P4270011.jpg


A shot of the whole thing minus the front trim.

http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/columns/P4270013.jpg


This is a shot of it recessed about 1/2 way between the shots I posted earlier. I had my wife hold the trim in place, so there are some small gaps. Is this enough depth? Maybe another 1/4" and I think its a winner.

http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/columns/P4270018.jpg


Overall I am pleased with the way its turned out so far. The grill has a very clean look to it. I cant wait to stain the rest of it and put it together.

Ronnie

Me like.....

Swithey had asked me how I plan to do the sconces. I'm not sure the sconce is going to work out. Im afraid that in order for the placement to look right, its going to interfere with the speakers. They wont be lighted either. Just some wood to break up the grill.

If I am able to do it without speaker interference, then I plan to use some L-brackets to hold it in place. It should look something like this.

http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/columns/sconce.jpg

Ronnie

I'm a little late to the game (I have been studying) but I like it recessed just slightly inside the rounded molding..not too far though, like maybe 0.25" max. Will you be putting insulation inside the columns behind the fabric?

Will you be putting insulation inside the columns behind the fabric?

David, I cant remember if I talked to Brian/BPape about putting sound treatement into the lower half of the coumns. I will have to look back through my notes. He is probably wondering when I am going to get to work on the acoustics. I think its been a couple of months since we laid it all out. Sorry Brian :(

Ronnie

I had a pretty productive weekend for a change. Lots of column work. I didnt get all of them completely finished, but I am close. I did make sure I fully completed one of them for you guys though. First I want to share a few pics of the steps involved.


I attached the molding to the front using glue, an air nailer, and clamps. The pic only shows 2 clamps, but I used a combination of 4 and worked my way up while nailing it.

http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/columns/P4290005.jpg



I mounted some small blocks to each side to use as backstops for the grill inserts. The blocks were glued in place and then I put a couple of 1' nails in them with the nailer.

http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/columns/P4290010.jpg

http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/columns/P4290013.jpg



1st coat of stain going on one of the columns.

http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/columns/P4290017.jpg



While the stain was drying, I started putting together a few more of the grill frames. Everything is glued and clamped. After about 30 minutes, I came back and put a few nails in each joint.

http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/columns/P4290019.jpg



The frames were then painted black to make sure they did not show through the material. Probably didnt need to do this, but might as well be safe.

http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/columns/P4300025.jpg




Ronnie

I attached the top and bottom plates with screws. In this particular shot, all the column pieces are finished. Stained and Polyed. I went ahead and stained the entire inside even though only about 1" of it will be seen. I only detailed out the the exposed part (about 1"), so dont pay attention to the unevenness inside the column. I figured that was just as easy as painting the inside black.

http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/columns/P4300047.jpg

http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/columns/P4300052.jpg


Here is a shot of the grill insert inside the column before covering it with fabric. You will notice that the bottom plate has uneven staining on the part inside the column. Just like the inside of the column, I didnt worry about detailing out the part thats hidden. Only the exposed part was sanded and detailed. Amazing how much difference stain takes on sanded vs unsanded wood.

http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/columns/P4300055.jpg


I covered a few of the grill inserts by laying out my fabric onto a table and placing the grill frame on top of it.

http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/columns/P4300058.jpg


Once everything was in position, I started down 1 side with the stapler, then stretched the fabric from the other side and stapled it down making sure everything was clean and tight. Once everything was stapled, I cut off the excess fabric.

http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/columns/P4300059.jpg

http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/columns/P4300060.jpg


The back of the finished grill. I also painted those staples black that you see on the corner ends. They are hidden, but did it anyway.

http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/columns/P4300062.jpg


The front of the finished grill.

http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/columns/P4300063.jpg


I also added some velco to the backstops and grill just to make sure it stays in place.

http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/columns/P4300064.jpg
Ronnie

Here is a shot of one of the completed columns.

http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/columns/P4300049.jpg


This shot is what it will look like inside the room. The lighting wasnt the greatest, so it looks a little dark.

http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/columns/P4300029.jpg


A closeup of the bottom section.

http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/columns/P4300030.jpg


A closeup of the top section. I will have fabric frames that will butt up against the top soffit piece, thats why you dont see any moding on it. Also, the soffit is casting a shadow across the side at an angle that makes it appear as if the staining were uneven, but its not. Its tough to get good pictures.

http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/columns/P4300045.jpg



I really really really appreciate all the feedback you guys have given me on these. I think we have the perfect amount of recess for the grills. I am extremely happy with the way they have turned out. Now I just have to finish up a few things on the other 3 and I can close the book on these.

Ronnie

Man I really like those! Definitely unique and there's just something to be said about nice wood and stain..... looks great!

Ronnie - they look (wait let me get the wheel of adjectives out) phenomenal

They do look pretty cool. I'm curious what the room will look like when you get the rest of the done. How about that GOM, did you make a decision yet? BTW, I think I finished the cotton install. I have to verify if Bryan wanted two layers or just one. I've got some left, I would expect two. Sounds good to me though, but hey, what do I know.

Bud

Hey Bud, Im guessing those T-hangers worked out perfectly?


The GOM is still up in the air at the moment. I just opened up some more samples today.

Lido Huron
Lido Heartland
Zirconia Saphire
Zirconia Garnet


Pretty cool fabrics, but I need to get the wifes opinion. I like the Lido Huron. Thanks for pointing me in that direction. The Zirconia's are pretty cool also, but might be a little to dark for me. The heartland is nice also, but I dont think she will go for it.

I will post up some pics for you guys so you can help me decide :D


Ronnie

All I can say is Go! Go Ronnie Go!

All I can say is Go! Go Ronnie Go!

LOL, Im trying to keep pace with you, Steve, Bud, and Jerrod. Its just not working out very well....... :p

The T pins worked out great. 100 for about 7.00 is about as perfect as your gonna get! Just twist them through the cotton, then push it through the drywall on a downward angle.

Bud

Here are the 4 GOM samples that are in the running so far. Actually I have eliminated 2 of them today, but I will post them anyway.

Which one should I go with?



LIDO 2858 - 064 HEARTLAND
http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/fabric/P5020013.jpg


LIDO 2858 - 055 HURON
http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/fabric/P5020014.jpg


ZIRCONIA 3583 - 010 SAPPHIRE
http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/fabric/P5020016.jpg


NETWORK 4158 - 040 SAPPHIRE
http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/fabric/P5020017.jpg


All 4 of them together.
http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/fabric/P5020009.jpg

I took all the above samples to the office today along with a good size piece of stained and polyd wood. I individually had people stop by and look at them. I ony wanted 1 person at a time to see them so thier opinions would not be altered and I could get thier first reactions. Strangly enough, everyone picked the exact same fabric. Only one person had 2 choices and one of those was the same fabric all the others picked.


Based on all the feedback at the office, I ordered a 1yd sample so I can get a better take on this whole thing.

I will tell you guys which one later. Dont want to sway any opinions yet.

Ronnie

ZIRCONIA 3583 - 010 SAPPHIRE
http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/fabric/P5020016.jpg



Gets my vote

Ronnie,

I have the Lido Heartland and I should have extra of that. I can overnight a yard to you tomorrow if you would like. If you let me know by 11:30 tomorrow morning, I can send it out tomorrow and you will have it Thursday.

Also, I liked the blue shade, but I thought many people said to stay away from that type of color because it would affect the picture on the screen.

Let me know,

Hey Ronnie - I picked the ZIRCONIA in two shades for my theater. It's really sharp next to stained wood.


Gary

I like both the Zirconia and the Huron. The Huron looks really, really light in your picture though. I wouldn't have selected it based on that. I have a sample here on my desk, so I know its not that light.

Have you look at them with the lights low for reflection purposes?

Bud

I was gonna say Huron, but that Zirconia looks cool. It's darker too.

Damn you guys are quick. I go out and do some sanding, come back in to check and already have 4 responses.


Thanks to everyone who has posted their opinion so far. Its really hard to get an accurate picture of this stuff. It looks so much different in person. They all appear a lot lighter in the the pictures I posted. Some of you noticed that because you have the real samples in front of you.

BritInVA,
The Zirconia Sapphire is nice, but I think it will be to dark. Im trying to avoid the dungeon look. It looks pretty good in the pic, but its almost black in real life. I think that blue really pops out with the flash photography. Have you seen a sample of this before?


Jdubb16,
I might take you up on that. PM me your # and we can talk. I have a UPS account and I can even send it back to when I am done. Since you have seen this on a large scale, do you think it might be to bland with all the woodwork? It has a muddy look to it and I am afraid all my woodwork will get lost in the mix. Thoughts? I have never heard that about the blue fabrics.


GaryKagen,
Been following your thread also. Nice work. I actually have the Zirconia Garnet sample also. I like both of those, but as I stated above, Im scared they might be way to dark once everything is completely covered. The Garnet is actually lighter, but the wife didn't like it. I did. Have you seen large samples of this yet? Maybe you already bought it?


ChinaDog,
Yes, the pics seem to make everything lighter. I cant get an accurate photo. You know exactly what I mean, because you have the fabric in front of you. It actually looks like a light greyish blue to me. The wife likes that one also. All these fabrics disappear when the lights go out. I suspect they all do because I have asked a few guys with the very light fabrics (tan, grey, etc) how they look and they say the same thing the guys with the dark fabrics say. It disappears. I really want something that looks good with the lights on. Something thats appealing when I first walk someone into the theater. Once the lights are off, I am thinking it probably wont really make a difference. Does all that make sense?



So far, everyone that has come to the house, and everyone in my office, picked the NETWORK SAPPHIRE fabric. Thats my wifes first choice also. Must be something about those little lines. I have a 1yd sample of it on the way. We shall see how it looks soon. I kinda like it myself.

The second choice by far from friends and family that have seen the fabrics in person is the LIDO HURON. My second is a tossup between the HURON and the HEARTLAND.


This is tough. Sorry for the long drawn out post.

Ronnie

Thanks Jerrod. We posted at the same time or I would have added you to the post above.

It is defanitaly darker. Thats what im afraid of with all the black I will already have in the room. The entire front is black, the soffits are black, and I plan on a star ceiling which will also be black. Im thinking I might need some contrast.


Ronnie

Gotta do what you gotta do Ronnie. Whenever you get to things we'll figure it out.

BTW, the columns look absolutely gorgeous.

Thanks Jerrod. We posted at the same time or I would have added you to the post above.

It is defanitaly darker. Thats what im afraid of with all the black I will already have in the room. The entire front is black, the soffits are black, and I plan on a star ceiling which will also be black. Im thinking I might need some contrast.

Ronnie
I'm heartbroken that I wasn't included with everyone else...... :D The Network Sapphire is cool to and the pattern is identical to one I was looking at a while back.

Ronnie - no not seen the samples in person and I'm sure they all look totally different in person.

I haven't seen any large samples of the Zirconia yet. (just the 2 small ones I got) I'd like to hear more of any reflection issues with this fabric, hope there is none as I like it alot.

The lighter Garnett color is what I will use for the contrast. It is much lighter than the sapphire and I will split the room top / bottom : Garnett / Sapphire to get the contrast. The ceiling is a dark Midnight Navy which goes well with the Garnett. Not too worried with the dungeon look (good point though) with 15 highhats and 6 sconces in the theater.

Next big decision is to box/panel all the fabric or just roll it out on the walls.

keep up the great thread!

Gary

My 1yd sample of Network Sapphire GOM was waiting for me when I came home today. At first glance, its pretty slick looking stuff. I have not removed it from the packaging yet.

http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/fabric/P5080022.jpg


I will post up some pics with it and the rest of the theater colors later for some opinions. Hopefully this larger sample will help.

Ronnie

Ronnie,

Are you getting your samples from Silent Source or some other GOM distributor?

Billmac

Ronnie,

Are you getting your samples from Silent Source or some other GOM distributor?

Billmac


I am getting my samples directly from Guillford of Maine (Interface Fabrics).


Note: This is not your normal sample. I requested a larger sample after looking at a lot of smaller samples and narrowing down the choices. You will have to pay for larger samples. Its $25yd. I was lucky enough to get them to do a 1 yd sample. Normally its a 5 yard minimum.

Ronnie

Thanks for the quick reply. That's what I figured. I also have setup an account on the Guillford Interface site since I'm in the middle of picking fabric and carpet right now. I've found the GOM interface site UI extremely painful to work with. Your links to the silent source site has a simpler imterface to view samples and the colors seem brighter.

Thanks for the quick reply. That's what I figured. I also have setup an account on the Guillford Interface site since I'm in the middle of picking fabric and carpet right now. I've found the GOM interface site UI extremely painful to work with. Your links to the silent source site has a simpler imterface to view samples and the colors seem brighter.


No problem. Its been my experience that most of the samples dont look like the pictures that you see on the websites. Some are close, while others are far from close. Im sure others can back me up on this.

Ronnie

Ronnie,

Have you looked at Fabricmate?

Bud

Ronnie,

Have you looked at Fabricmate?

Bud


For samples?

Or the final order?

If you talking about the final order (once I decide), I will be purchasing that 3rd party. I found the Network Sapphire for $17/yd. I cant remember offhand which place it was. I left the details at the office. Fabricmate was one of the vendors out of about 6 that I called.

Ronnie

Here is my best attempt at trying to take a decent photograph of this stuff. This is the Network Sapphire fabric. Everyone that has seen the samples in person has picked this stuff almost unanamously. Its also the one the wife is partial to.

It has a unique behavior. From a distance it looks like a solid darker blue. The little lines seem to dissapear. Up close in regular light, you can see the lines and it gives it some texture, but nothing very bold. But if you pop it with a bright light, or a flash, the pattern really comes alive. It might actually look cool with a few strategically placed can lights. With the lights down low similar to movie mode, it pretty much goes black.

Anyway, here are a couple of pics under direct flash lighting up close.

http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/fabric/P5080028.jpg http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/fabric/P5080027.jpg





These 2 photos were taken about 10 feet away with a flash.

http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/fabric/P5080024.jpg http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/fabric/P5080036.jpg



I have a few more people coming by this week to give me thier opinions with the large sample.

I bet you guys are saying "just shut up and pick something" :p

Ronnie

In your first pictures I was thinking, "wow, that's way too bold/strong of a pattern (nice colors though)", but after seeing your next pictures and how it kind of fades away, that's really cool. Especially with lighting, as you mentioned. Are you going to do a chair rail style on the sides, or top to bottom as in your pictures?

It'll be very interesting to see what it would look like in an entire room in different light levels. Fortunately, that may be upcoming. :) Nice job thus far with everything.

For samples?

Or the final order?

If you talking about the final order (once I decide), I will be purchasing that 3rd party. I found the Network Sapphire for $17/yd. I cant remember offhand which place it was. I left the details at the office. Fabricmate was one of the vendors out of about 6 that I called.

Ronnie

Either/Or. I had to buy extra black for the projector box from fabric mate and ordered just two yards. It wasn't an issue with minimum amounts. I figured you could do better than 25.00 a yard is all.

Bud

Tim, I doubt I have chair rail. I am planning on doing frames, but not sure of the orientation yet. The pics above were only to get a feel for the colors of the fabric along with the other theater elements.

Ronnie

Ronnie,

I like it. Just as Tim said, up close it does look a little busy, but further away it blends in nicely.

BTW -- just pick your fabric and get it on the wall already! :D ;)

Either/Or. I had to buy extra black for the projector box from fabric mate and ordered just two yards. It wasn't an issue with minimum amounts. I figured you could do better than 25.00 a yard is all.

Bud


Thanks Bud, I hope my tone didnt come accross wrong in my reply. I appreciate your feeback. I actually didnt realize you could get samples from the other guys, so I just went to Guilford. Tip noted for future.

For the real stuff, As I mentioned above, I had found that I could get it 3rd party from Silent Source or FabricMate for a lot less than Guilford charges. That is where I will be placing my final order.

So what are your thoughts on the Network Sapphire now that you can see a larger sample pic?

Ronnie

Ronnie,

I think the Network Sapphire looks sweet, it will give the room some character. I don't think it looks too busy, especially where it gets broken up by those awesome columns. Are you doing panels with chisled edges like Greg or just large panels between columns?

I have a question about the larger panels. If I do a panel about 4.5' wide from floor to where my sloped ceiling starts (about 5'-2") do you think I could use liquid nails on the furring and just put a finish nail in each corner to hold the panel until the glue dried. Would this be enough? The finish nail would basically disappear into the fabric.

Thanks

Ronnie,

I think the Network Sapphire looks sweet, it will give the room some character. I don't think it looks too busy, especially where it gets broken up by those awesome columns. Are you doing panels with chisled edges like Greg or just large panels between columns?

I have a question about the larger panels. If I do a panel about 4.5' wide from floor to where my sloped ceiling starts (about 5'-2") do you think I could use liquid nails on the furring and just put a finish nail in each corner to hold the panel until the glue dried. Would this be enough? The finish nail would basically disappear into the fabric.

Thanks


Thanks J-dubb16. I havent decided on the orientation of the panels yet. Im thinking of making a couple of panels per section and hanging them horizontally. That would make it 2 panels per section. I doubt I will bevel them. I may also experiment with doing a small panel (6-8 inches) at top and bottom with black gom. All this is still up in the air. I will probably start doing some sketches to get a feel for the layout.

I think the liquid nails and finish nail would be fine. Have you ever used liquid nails before? That stuff is stout. I put up some chair rail in the game room with it (no nails at all) and 10 minutes after I pressed it onto the wall I couldnt remove it. It would have ripped out the drywall. Its been up for a year now with no issues.

Dont take my word for it though. I would ask a few of the guys that have done panels for thier input on mounting.

Ronnie

Thanks, I just think making the panels on the floor will allow me to get a much tigher fit for the GOM and that is the most important thing to making these walls look good.