Thanks Bud, I hope my tone didnt come accross wrong in my reply. I appreciate your feeback. I actually didnt realize you could get samples from the other guys, so I just went to Guilford. Tip noted for future.

For the real stuff, As I mentioned above, I had found that I could get it 3rd party from Silent Source or FabricMate for a lot less than Guilford charges. That is where I will be placing my final order.

So what are your thoughts on the Network Sapphire now that you can see a larger sample pic?

Ronnie

No, not at all. Just wanted to make sure you had other (possibly cheaper) options.

You asked, so I'm going to tell you. I like the blue, but man, its too busy for me. Granted, with the flash and all it makes it look brighter. Been through that. To see it in person is a whole different story though.

What matters is that its your choice, don't be swayed by me. I took a conservative approach to mine and most people would probably shy away from a greenish color, so maybe you're asking the wrong person!

Here's a suggestion, put the big piece on the floor in front of your TV and watch some TV tonight with the lights off and see if the lines truly disappear. Just a thought.

Bud

Here's a suggestion, put the big piece on the floor in front of your TV and watch some TV tonight with the lights off and see if the lines truly disappear. Just a thought.

Bud

Good idea. I could already tell that it goes very dark when there is not much light hitting it. I will throw some on the wall or floor by the 54" Toshiba RP tonight and see what happens. The closest this fabric will be to the screen in the HT is about 4-5'. Just from what I have seen of it so far, I doubt there will be issues.

Thanks for your honest feedback. We all need that. I understand everyone has different tastes, but overall, most people tend to like or at least agree on the same types of stuff. Of course you always have your all out flagrant type personalities. I just dont want something that someone sees and thinks OMG, why would he choose that. Maybe its not exactly what they would choose, but its something that they would not discount either.

Ronnie

Ronnie,

As long as your wall covering does not look like this bedspread or the zebra paneling on the side wall , you will be fine ;)

http://adisneyworld.disney.go.com/media/wdw/images2003/languagespecific/eng/nontheme/resorts/del/CR/images/centerColImgGrm01.jpg

BTW -- this is the "old" look of Walt Disney World's Contemporary Hotel. We stayed in a room like this for (2) nights then moved into the main tower for the remainder of our stay (long story) with the newly remodeled rooms. Talk about a difference. The new rooms were beautiful and at the caliber of a Hyatt or Four Seasons. The picture below is not the exact room (or same hotel), but it looked a lot like this (including the the flat screen TV). Talk about a night and day difference.

http://www.fourseasons.com/images/generated/property/siliconvalley/landing_pages/basics_welcome.jpg

Welcome back Steve. Hope you guys had a wonderfull time. Disney World is fun.

Ronnie

Welcome back Steve. Hope you guys had a wonderfull time. Disney World is fun.

Ronnie
Sorry, did not mean to hijack your thread (more of a joke than anything :D ).

Looks like you are making some good progress on the room. I'm taking Friday off to get caught-up on mine.

Ronnie,

I think the fabric looks good, and you gotta figure, you'll have the lights off most of the time and be watching movies. If someone doesn't like the fabric with the lights on.... turn 'em off and crank it up!

I still freakin love those columns!

Ronnie,

I think the fabric looks good, and you gotta figure, you'll have the lights off most of the time and be watching movies. If someone doesn't like the fabric with the lights on.... turn 'em off and crank it up!

I still freakin love those columns!


Thanks man. You have a point.

Im putting the last coat of poly on the final 2 columns as we speak. I will post a pic tomorrow of all 4 of these bad boys lined up like soldiers. :-)

Ronnie

Ronnie,
I had a hell of time deciding on the GOM.
FWIW, the pattern you posted was one of my 2 finalists.
I thought that if I had decided to build panels it would work as I would have greater control over the "tensioning" of the fabric.
Since I decided not to do frames, I opted for a non-directional fabric, i.e., boring.
I like the Network pattern.
Subdued, yet active. :D

Ronnie,
Subdued, yet active. :D

Thats perfect! I tried to do my best to describe this stuff above in an entire paragraph, but you managed to do it in 3 words.

Im pretty sure the Network Sapphire is going to be the ONE. I have a few more people to show it to first. Steve/Swithey said he might even come by on Friday. If so, I will get his take on it.

I am really starting to like it.

Ronnie

Also, I finished off the final touches on all the columns tonight. :D Thank God those things are done. What a job. I will post up some pics of them tomorrow.

Next few items on the agenda are:

1. Make final decision on fabric and hopefully order it next week.
2. Pick out the carpet and order it.
3. Detail out the mdf light tray and prepare for veneering and stain.
4. Catch my website up to date with the latest few accomplishments.


That should keep me busy for a few months............ :(

Ronnie

I thought I would post the pic of all 4 finished columns as promised.

http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/columns/P5110019.jpg


Ronnie

Very nice job Ronnie. You've really put a lot of work into them, they're a marval to look at. Can't wait to see them placed in your room. Just remember, the room has to look as good as your columns :D .

Nice job Ronnie! They look GREAT! Hopefully I'll be getting to mine soon :)

Great job Ronnie.....you HT is sure gonna be impressive!

Very Very Nice Job!

Ronnie,

Looks great! BTW, I think Steve has column envy. :rolleyes:

Bud

I'll add to the "looks great" comments! Love it!

Thanks everyone. I appreciate the comments.


Ronnie

Ronnie,

Looks great! BTW, I think Steve has column envy. :rolleyes:

Bud
Bud, I think you're right. Just more incentive to stay focused and get 'em done :D

I have been playing around with sketchup tonight trying to decide on a layout for the wall panels. So far I have 3 variations. There is roughly a 5x8 section between each column. I have it divided into 4 panels per section in the pics, but I could also do a single 5x8 panel. Which of these do you guys like?


Panel A1.
3" oak trim top and bottom with 6" black top and bottom.

http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/fabric/Panel-a1.jpg


Panel A2.
3" oak trim top and bottom with 6" black on bottom.

http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/fabric/Panel-a2.jpg


Panel A3.
3" oak trim top and bottom.

http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/fabric/Panel-a3.jpg



Ronnie

I like option one. Are you planning on 4 panels of GOM between columns or just one piece? If you're doing four, that's obviously a lot of extra work, either by doing panels (ala Gpowers or Steve) or lots of furring and stapling. Either way, lots of work

Bud

I like options one. Are you planning on 4 panels of GOM between columns or just one piece? If you're doing four, that's obviously a lot of extra work, either by doing panels (ala Gpowers or Steve) or lots of furring and stapling. Either way, lots of work

Bud


Bud, the pics above indicate 4 pieces between columns. Roughly 2.5x4 for each one. It could easily be done on a single 5x8 panel which is probably what I will do. I do not plan on doing any beveling, so its all seamless. I agree on the work. I need less work ;)

I am most interested in the feedback on the trim and black panel layout and how to incorporate it into the design.


Ronnie

I knew that, hence option one. Just a sanity check on the GOM. You may proceed!

Bud

Bud, here is a pic of what I will call A1A: This would represent single 5x8 panels between columns.

http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/fabric/Panel-a1a.jpg

Ronnie

Ronnie,
I like option 1 as well.
It breaks up the pattern and provides a nice balance.
I know it's moot at this stage to say that option 1 will take more time.
I mean after a couple thousand man hours what's another 80 or so.
The end result is really what counts.

I like that. Looks like a winner. Question two. Is the horizontal black pieces going to be painted or GOMed? You may be able to do it with leftover sections of GOM, a liitle 3M spray adhesive, a few strategic staples ...

Bud

I like that. Looks like a winner. Question two. Is the horizontal black pieces going to be painted or GOMed? You may be able to do it with leftover sections of GOM, a liitle 3M spray adhesive, a few strategic staples ...

Bud


The black will also be GOM panels. All components of the wall will be extended 1" from the sheetrock and be flush on the face. That includes the blue panels, the black panels, and the oak trim.

Ronnie

That'll be a nice touch.

Bud

There will be one thing I will need to do with one section on the left wall. I plan to have my equipment hidden behind a hinged panel. Similar to what several others have done. To do this, I will have to have a split panel design for just one section. Since I plan on doing it without bevels, hopefully you wont even notice it.

Here is how the equipment rack would fit into the wall. I figure I can make one of the panels just wide enough to cover the 19" rack.

http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/fabric/Panel-rack.jpg


Ronnie

Option 1a gets my vote - I would think no mater how careful your still likly to see seams and as your not making a feature of them (i.e bevel) single panels will be better.

Can wait to see!

I like A1A as well. Good idea to trim it out with black on the top and bottom. Thanks for sharing your work with us,

-Ryan

My vote (personal preference of course) is A1 with bevels, and then A1A. Since you've already stated that you don't want bevels, then I would choose A1A over A1 anyway.

For the black top and bottom, I'd use black GOM (for the same texture as the blue), and just use Bud's idea of 3M spray adhesive and just apply it directly to the drywall, and cover up the top and bottom edges with the moulding and furring strips. No staples needed and it saves a bunch of time creating furring strips and wrapping the GOM around it and stapling, etc. You'd also have a variance of depth to the wall. Though in this case, I'd probably bevel the top and bottom of the blue GOM for a smoother transition (I must just like bevels :) ).

I like the built-in cabinet idea.. I'm assuming you'll use an IR repeater system? For that, you can go with the same tight GOM around bracing, with the top and bottom bracing being cut in half and the right side hinged. The GOM will then simply become loose when you open it (like Ruben's hidden door design).

Thanks guys. It looks like style A1(a) is the winner so far. Thats also what the family, friends and co-workers chose. I think I will go with that and make a slight modification thanks to some ideas by Miltimj. Where the Network Sapphire and Black GOM meet, I might do bevels. Just on those edges only. Nothing else. That might give it a smoother transition between the colors.

Thoughts?


Miltimj. Thanks for the ideas. I want everything flush and clean, so I will be doing a lot of furring and framing. I also need a place to put the acoustical treatments that BPape has lined out for me. Not a big deal, I am use to work :D

As for the texture comment, I planned on using Black GOM anyway because of the durability. Im not sure if you have seen the fabrics or not, but the Network Sapphire's texture is nothing like the Black 701 GOM.

For the hidden equipment panel, I prefer to use something solid. It will be similar to what makeit57 and some others have done. Here is a pic, I hope he doesnt mind.
http://www.piacasa.com/theater/157_5720.JPG

Ronnie

Ronnie

I like A1 or A1A (with preference to A1 becasue I like panels as you know). I like the "black" GOM at the top and bottom -- a nice accent and a great way to tie in the columns.

I pulled the trigger on the GOM fabric today. Im going with the Network Sapphire. Just ordered it from FabricMate. Nice guys! Its in stock and will ship out tomorrow. I should have it on Monday.

Guess I better go find some carpet now.... :D

Ronnie

Ronnie,

I received my GOM samples today and was surprised the the 701 GOM that everyone uses here was so much more coarse than the other styles I picked up. I'm thinking about only using that for the front screen wall and using a similar style (like anchorage) for the two sets of colors (dark Blue and black) I'm using to cover the walls and acoustic treatments.

billmac

Ronnie,

I received my GOM samples today and was surprised the the 701 GOM that everyone uses here was so much more coarse than the other styles I picked up. I'm thinking about only using that for the front screen wall and using a similar style (like anchorage) for the two sets of colors (dark Blue and black) I'm using to cover the walls and acoustic treatments.

billmac


Yes, Thats what I was trying to point out to Miltimj in post #533. The 701 is like black burlap. Its texture is nothing like the network sapphire.

If you want something nice in black, then the Anchorage 2016 Onyx is my choice. A very nice fabric. Sounds like you have this sample already.

Ronnie

Exactly. I'm looking at a walls composed of 2 black (Anchorage Onyx) strips and one Dark Blue (Anchorage Midnight) strip, probably long horizontal sections at this point. When holding up the 701 against the Anchorage it was too different.

I really like the network sapphire too but I don't think it will work in my HT.

billmac

The more I mess around with my GOM samples I've definately decided to use a smoother fabric (like the Anchorage) to cover the wall treatments versus the 701 series but now I'm questioning the 701 black GOM for the front screen wall.

have you guys looked at any of the bulk speaker grill cloth thats available from suppliers like partsexpress ?? seems like that would be a cheaper alternative to GOM for a screen wall that needs to be AT.

billmac

There are quite a few people that use black speaker fabric for the front wall, billmac.

I used black speaker cloth for my speaker panels and under the soffit of my stage. I picked it up at JoAnn's for $7yd with a coupon. I think it looks fantastic. I may even use it for the black panels on the side walls instead of the GOM like I had planned. It would match the rest of my blacks and its very cost effective.

BMackrell, you can see a lot of pictures and commentary on the use of this speaker fabric earlier in the thread and also on my website.

Ronnie

Man, I just checked out your site and I really applaud the amount of detail you put into that. Great Work!

Man, I just checked out your site and I really applaud the amount of detail you put into that. Great Work!

Thank you Jerrod. I feel bad because I am about a month or two behind on updating it. I need to add the light tray and column details. Lately I just cant find any spare time. Even the theater progress has slowed.

Ronnie

My 22 yards of fabric came in today from FabricMate.
Network 4158
041 Saphire

Exciting................


Anyone else see something wrong with this picture?

http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/fabric/P5220016.jpg



Yep, Its not Network 4158, 041 Sapphire!!! :eek: :eek:


They sent me the wrong stuff. All the labeling and invoices have the correct fabric listed. Even the label on the bolt of fabric from Interface has it listed as Network Sapphire.

Just my luck. Hopefully this wont turn out to be a nightmare to reconcile.

Ronnie

Man, that sucks!

Ahh, just gives you more time to work on the soffit can lights :D

Hopefully this wont turn out to be a nightmare to reconcile.


I had to call them about the seam sewed in the middle of the fabric and they were pretty easy to deal with. I ended up having enough even with the seam, so I never had to return anything. I think you'll be fine. Did you work with Yvette?

Bud

Yes, Yvette has taken care of me from day 1. Very nice lady. My wifes name is also Yvette, which makes it easy to remember.

I called her this morning and she took care of everything. I mentioned that I had pictures of the roll and all its labels. She requested I send them over. She said the pics helped tremendously with expediting this issue. They have issued a pickup for the wrong material and are also shipping out the correct fabric today. Hopefully I get it Friday and its the right stuff.

Ronnie

Guys, I have to say FabricMate is awsome. They handled this entire issue with speed and grace. If you need GOM, I would make them your first choice.

The 22 yards of Network Sapphire arrived today right on time. This replaced the wrong fabric that was sent out from Interface originally.

I am a happy camper.

http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/fabric/fabric.jpg

Ronnie

I also picked up the oak veneer and supplies to finish off the light tray. That is my weekend goal.

Here is a shot of the two 4x8 sheets of oak veneer.

http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/tray/P5260026.jpg



Ronnie

Ronnie,

What are you going to use to trim the veneer to size. I will need several pieces of 8" wide by 8' long veneer and I am not sure how to get a nice cut on something so thin.

Thanks

Ronnie,

What are you going to use to trim the veneer to size. I will need several pieces of 8" wide by 8' long veneer and I am not sure how to get a nice cut on something so thin.

Thanks

A straight edge and a really sharp utility knife made for cutting veneer. Once its in place, I will use an edge trimmer thats made for cutting veneer. You can pick all this up at your local woodworking store, HD, or Lowes.

Do a quick google on veneering and you will find tons of how-to's along with all the tools required.

Ronnie

Ronnie,

What are you going to use to trim the veneer to size. I will need several pieces of 8" wide by 8' long veneer and I am not sure how to get a nice cut on something so thin.

Thanks
j-dubb,

Yes, a good sharp blade and a straight edge is all you nead for a perfect cut. HERE (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=7208154&&#post7208154) is how I cut and veneered my columns using that technique.

Thanks for the tips, does not lok as bad as I thought. This will be my first veneer adventure, lucky, it is on the radiua vertical face of the stage and is on 8" tall, so if the edges are not perfect, you will not be able to tell because of the stage lip and carpet.

Off to HD again:)

Thanks

I have been AWOL for a while Ronnie........vacation from Iraq and some neverending family stuff to deal with (namely a 17 yr old stepson who thinks he is a "man" now). Never got to start on my basement while I was home for the above mentioned reasons but I did get a 62" LCD put up in my loft and 8 inwall/in ceiling speakers put in for surround sound. Should hold the family over till I finnish the real theater in the basement. The sub I put in kicks ass....actually cracked the drywall repair/access job I did behind it from a closet (had to cut out a stud so I made an access hole from the back). Anyway....just wanted to let you know I am all cought up now on your thread and progress.....LOOKS AWSOME!!!

The columns turned out as expected-------- GREAT!!! I too have "Column Envy" and I dont even have any columns to work on.

Keep up the good work.....

Oh yeah I wasnt sure about your choice of GOM at first but it has kinda grown on me. I think it will look good with your stained wood and the black speaker cloth.....good choice!

Robert

Welcome back Robert. You havent missed much. Its really been slow going for me lately. My job and family have kept me pretty busy. With my lack of progress, im surprised anyone is still interested. :p Oh well, at least Bud/ChinaDog is keeping us occupied. That guy is a working beast!

Im trying to take advantage of this long weekend and get the light tray finished. I spent most of Saturday prepping it for veneer. I bondo'd the seams, filled the nail holes, etc, and sanded everything down nice and smooth. Anyone else ever have to sand and detail out about 50' of substrate upside down and above your head? Its not fun. I consider myself in excellent shape, but damn, that is a workout!!

Today I applied the veneer to the front 5" face of the light tray. Tomorrow I plan on finishing up the veneer on the underside 10" piece. Tuesday I plan on getting a massage :D

Looking back, I wish I had finished these out with veneer prior to installation on the soffit. Life would have been much easier. Actually, I should have purchased 3/4 Oak plywood like I did for the columns. Then I could have just installed them and stained. Oh well, live and learn.

Veneering is actually pretty easy. Its the above your head and upside down stuff that makes it tough.

I will post up some pics tomorrow when I get them finished.

Ronnie

Looking back, I wish I had finished these out with veneer prior to installation on the soffit. Life would have been much easier. Actually, I should have purchased 3/4 Oak plywood like I did for the columns. Then I could have just installed them and stained. Oh well, live and learn.

Ronnie

I thought about giving the veneer a try, but then I just figured I'd get plywood, stain it and not bother with the glue and veneer, then having to stain it too. Lowe's and HD only have birch and oak, and actually the birch sheets look pretty good. I don't recall which type of plywood you used....???

I thought about giving the veneer a try, but then I just figured I'd get plywood, stain it and not bother with the glue and veneer, then having to stain it too. Lowe's and HD only have birch and oak, and actually the birch sheets look pretty good. I don't recall which type of plywood you used....???


Jerrod, I used 3/4" Oak plywood for my columns. For the stage facing,over stage soffit facing, and riser facing, I use 1/4" oak plywood.

As I mentioned earlier, If I were to do this over again, I would have used oak plywood for the light tray also.

Veneering is not that bad though. Especially if you can work on it at ground level or on a bench. i don't recommend doing it above your head unless your a glutton for punishment. :D

Ronnie

After 3 long hard days, I have finally, single handedly, finished veneering the light tray. Damn what a chore!!

Several others have posted some very good how-to's on veneering, but I figured I might as well throw it out there just in case. At first glance, it seems a bit overwhelming, but its really not that hard and it turns out very nice.

First, here are the supplies I used.
Contact Cement, Edge Trimmer, J-roller, 6" paint roller and tray. I picked all this up at Home Depot.

http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/tray/P5290062.jpg http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/tray/P5290063.jpg


The first thing I did was measure and cut my veneer into strips. I made them about 1" wider than the actual tray pieces. You dont have to leave this much margin, but I thought it might make it easier to line up since i was doing it by myself. I clamped a piece of mdf on top of the veneer to use as a straight edge and cut each strip using a razor knife.

http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/tray/P5270038.jpg
http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/tray/P5270042.jpg



Next I applied glue to the back of the veneer and to the light tray substrate using a 6" paint roller. It goes on with a milky color. Once it cures (about 30-45 minutes), it turns clear. My first thoughts after it cured was there was no way this was going to stick. It doesnt even seem tacky. It reminds me of the stuff on post-it notes. Trust me, once the two glue surfaces touch, they are stuck.

http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/tray/P5280044.jpg
http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/tray/P5280047.jpg



In order to get things into position, you use kraft paper. I put several pieces across the section of glue. The kraft paper doesnt bond to the glue, it just sticks to it like post-it notes and is easily removed. I then positioned the veneer on top of the kraft paper. It easily stays in place and it took a few tries to get it straight and even.

http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/tray/P5280048.jpg


Once I had it in the position I needed, I removed a single peice of the kraft paper and used the J-roller to apply pressure and bond the material to the mdf. After the first 8" or so were bonded, I pulled the veneer away from the kraft paper and let it hang. Next I removed the kraft paper a section at a time from the tray and worked my way to the end with the roller. You will need to use a lot of pressure to insure a good bond.

http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/tray/P5290057.jpg

Here is one of the 8' strips completed.

http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/tray/P5280051.jpg


After you get it applied, you will need to come back and trim off the extra that extends beyond the tray. I used an edge trimmer to get a nice clean edge. All you need to do is push it down the length of the tray. It has guides that keep it in place.

http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/tray/P5290059.jpg


Ronnie

For the corners, I wanted a nice 45 degree cut. This was a little tricky.

I left the last 12" of each strip and tray without glue. With the two corner sections overlapping, I clamped a small piece of mdf to the tray to use as a guide. I took extra care making sure I had it perfectly lined up with the front and rear corners. Once in place, I used a razor knife to cut through both pieces of veneer at the same time. Make sure you have a very sharp blade so you can do it easily with a single cut. I removed the clamp and straight edge and pushed the veneer into place to make sure the cut was clean and lined up. It worked great. I applied some glue to the veneer and mdf, let it dry, then rolled it into place.

http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/tray/P5300025.jpg

http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/tray/P5300030.jpg


I will be touching up all the seams with a little bit of wood filler prior to staining. They are pretty clean, but this will make them almost un-noticable.


Ronnie

Here is a closeup of one section (both sides) almost done.

http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/tray/P5290068.jpg



A couple more shots with a little more progress.


http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/tray/P5290082.jpg

http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/tray/P5290084.jpg


I wish I had a wide angle lens to give you guys the full effect. Here is the completed left side.

http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/tray/P5300033.jpg



From the entrance.


http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/tray/P5300035.jpg



Close-up of where the light tray meets the stage soffit.


http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/tray/P5300040.jpg


Ronnie

The agenda for tomorrow is to get the stain applied to the light tray.

I also think I have found the carpet. Not 100% sure yet. They have a large sample of it on the way to me. Just like GOM, its hard to tell when your looking at 8"x8" samples. Carpet guy is coming over Friday afternoon to measure. If all goes well and I like the sample, I will be ordering.

I will post up the details on the carpet later. After I make sure I like it. :p



Ronnie

Excellent explanation of veneering, Ronnie. Thanks for posting it -- I learn something new with each different explanation (Ruben's, Steve's, yours, etc). Like you, I'm slightly intimidated by the concept, basically due to the permanence of the glue on an essentially immovable (or difficult to replace) object. The idea that you have to get it right the first time, yet do it quickly due to the glue drying.

With that said, I have a few random questions (though related to veneering at least.. :D)....

- You said that it's quite a chore, but that it's not that hard, and I'm wondering what you thought was the most difficult?

- How long can you leave the glue on there (separated) before it becomes difficult to work with? (Or is there really no time limit, as long as it stays clean?)

- When you put the veneer up on the soffit with the kraft paper between, how well does it stick? (If it's similar to post-it notes, that seems like the weight of the veneer might be too much)

- How easy is it to move around and adjust? (If you adjust one end, does the whole piece move as one, or does it "bind" in the middle?

- You said, "After the first 8" or so were bonded, I pulled the veneer away from the kraft paper and let it hang." What was hanging? The veneer? But that was immediately following using the J-roller to apply the veneer to the MDF...? I have a feeling this is a dumb question, but it's confusing me for some reason.

- Did you require a factory edge anywhere, such as near the ceiling, etc, or do you end up using moulding at every edge that butts up against a wall/ceiling, etc?

- How did you cut the end of the veneer where it meets the stage soffit? I'm guessing with a utility knife, but how did you ensure that the stage soffit wasn't damaged?

- Is there a reason you didn't use one piece of veneer and wrap it around the 90 degree corner? How flexible is it? (What diameter dowel do you think you could wrap it around?)

Whew! Sorry for having so many of them, but I'm almost positive I want to do the exact same thing and would like to gather as much pertinent info as I can, and know why you did what you did in some cases, so I know whether it was a "it doesn't matter much", or a "it doesn't work very well this other way" issue.

Thanks, Ronnie.

Nice Tutorial! I look forward to doing mine now.

Ronnie,

Really nice work. I love that 45deg angled cut you did in the corner -- looks perfect. They will really pop once you get them stained.

Excellent explanation of veneering, Ronnie. Thanks for posting it -- I learn something new with each different explanation (Ruben's, Steve's, yours, etc). Like you, I'm slightly intimidated by the concept, basically due to the permanence of the glue on an essentially immovable (or difficult to replace) object. The idea that you have to get it right the first time, yet do it quickly due to the glue drying.

With that said, I have a few random questions (though related to veneering at least.. :D)....
.


Miltimj, let me see if I can clarify this stuff for you.

The bond is only permanent if the two surfaces that contain glue make contact. Thats why you use the kraft paper and only remove the kraft paper from the sections you are working. Keep the rest covered to insure you dont accidentally touch them together before your ready.

Also, the glue takes 30-45 minutes to cure. Once cured the assembly/working time is 2.5 - 3.0 hours. Thats more than enough time. Just make sure you do it in manageable sections. The most I did at a single time was the two 8' sections where the corners meet, although I could have probably done more.


Ok, on to the questions.


- You said that it's quite a chore, but that it's not that hard, and I'm wondering what you thought was the most difficult.
It was a chore because I did it alone and all the work was also above my head because the tray was already installed. Those 2 factors made it difficult. The actual veneering process is rather simple.

- How long can you leave the glue on there (separated) before it becomes difficult to work with? (Or is there really no time limit, as long as it stays clean?)
The assembly/working time for the cured glue is 2.5 to 3 hours. If you purchase a different product, that may vary.

- When you put the veneer up on the soffit with the kraft paper between, how well does it stick? (If it's similar to post-it notes, that seems like the weight of the veneer might be too much)
To me, it seems similar to post-it notes. It was able to hold the underside section with an 11" strip that was 8' long. It wont stay if any of it is hanging down, but if you start on one end and work you way to the other it will stay. This is where it would be nice to have a few people. Remember, this was upside down on the bottom of the soffit. The sides were easier. If you were doing this on a flat bench, it would be very simple. Its weird, but the best I can describe it is that it sticks, but its not sticky. If that makes sense.

- How easy is it to move around and adjust? (If you adjust one end, does the whole piece move as one, or does it "bind" in the middle?It takes a little work to get it lined up. You cant slide it around as a whole on the paper. You have to pull up the whole peice from the kraft paper and reposition if its not right. You start from one end and smooth it out on top of the kraft working your way to the other end. If its not alligned, pull it up and try again. Thats why I cut my veneer 1" wider than the tray.


- You said, "After the first 8" or so were bonded, I pulled the veneer away from the kraft paper and let it hang." What was hanging? The veneer? But that was immediately following using the J-roller to apply the veneer to the MDF...? I have a feeling this is a dumb question, but it's confusing me for some reason.
Yes, after I bonded the first 8" or so of veneer to the substrate, then I pulled the rest of the veneer away from the kraft paper and let it hang away from the soffit. While it was hanging, I removed sections of the kraft paper and worked the bond down the tray.

- Did you require a factory edge anywhere, such as near the ceiling, etc, or do you end up using moulding at every edge that butts up against a wall/ceiling, etc?
The only edge that butts up against anything is the front edge where it meets the stage soffit. You can see that edge in the pics. On the backside of the tray, against the soffit ceiling, I will have a 3/4" gom frame that will attach to the ceiling. This is similar to what Ruben/SandmanX did. That will give me a flush false soffit ceiling.


- How did you cut the end of the veneer where it meets the stage soffit? I'm guessing with a utility knife, but how did you ensure that the stage soffit wasn't damaged?
I dry-fitted that peice in place and held it up with tape and clamps. Then I used a compass to draw the arc onto the veneer. I took the veneer down, cut the arc with sciscors and dry-fitted it again to make sure it was right.

- Is there a reason you didn't use one piece of veneer and wrap it around the 90 degree corner? How flexible is it? (What diameter dowel do you think you could wrap it around?)
Actually as I was doing the front side, I had that same thought. I pressed some of the excess around the corner and to the bottom of the soffit to see if it would work. It actually makes the 90 degree bend quite nicely. I think Ruben did his this way, but he put a slight roundover on it to ensure it didnt split at the bend. The one thing that seems like it would be hard is to get it all to come out flat with now bubbles or creasesas you bend it over the edge and work your way down. Have you ever taken a piece of packing tape and tried to tape up the 90 degree edge of a box? That would seem like a good analogy. Im sure it can be done, but it scared me. Once the glue surfaces touch, its permanent whether you wanted it there or not. I just didnt have the nads to try it. With the edge trimmer, it looks like a single piece anyway. I am very happy about the way it turned out.

I hope this answered all you questions. I have to rest now, this post wore me out. :D

Ronnie

Thanks a ton for taking the time to answer those, Ronnie. :)

That all makes a lot more sense now. Great idea with the compass and dry fit near the stage soffit. Thanks again for the detailed explanations! I hope this helps out more than just me, for your sake.. ;)

Ronnie, I've contact-cemented some laminate in the past. The roller in your picture looks like a real good one that would allow some serious pressure. Where did you get that, and is there a brand name and model you could share?

Ronnie, I've contact-cemented some laminate in the past. The roller in your picture looks like a real good one that would allow some serious pressure. Where did you get that, and is there a brand name and model you could share?
He bought the same one I used. It's the only one they sell at HD. It is VERY heavy duty. It's not in the paint section but over in the flooring area by the laminate materials. Cost is about $15 I think.

Thanks a ton for taking the time to answer those, Ronnie. :)

That all makes a lot more sense now. Great idea with the compass and dry fit near the stage soffit. Thanks again for the detailed explanations! I hope this helps out more than just me, for your sake.. ;)

No problem miltimj. Hopefull this combined with the others tutorials will help everyone.

Ronnie

He bought the same one I used. It's the only one they sell at HD. It is VERY heavy duty. It's not in the paint section but over in the flooring area by the laminate materials. Cost is about $15 I think.

Yes, thats the same one. I picked it up at home depot and like Steve said, its back by the countertop laminates. Its made by Gundlach.

Here (http://benojgundlachco.com/applications/CatalogManager/default.asp?gpcid=1&cid=5&scid=142&ItemID=735) is a link to the details.

You can apply some serious pressure with this thing.

Ronnie

Perfect Sandman. I knew they were out there somewhere. I found some locally that were 5" tall and will work for most of my needs, but had a little trouble finding any that were 4" or less. Looks like thats a good source. I will check out a few larger specialty lighting stores in my area.

I agree on 12v. I would like to stay with line voltage. Makes everything easier. Using a GRX-3106 to run everything.

Ronnie

http://216.105.59.114/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=1013

Ronnie,

Just curious to see if this solution for lighting worked for you. I am in the same boat as far as space requirement. And will a dimmer work on these type of lights?

Thanks,
Eric

Ronnie,

Just curious to see if this solution for lighting worked for you. I am in the same boat as far as space requirement. And will a dimmer work on these type of lights?

Thanks,
Eric

I have not purchased the can lighting for the tray yet, but its going to work fine. I have found several small cans that are low profile. Everything I am looking at is line voltage and dimming will not be an issue.

The cans Ruben/Sandmanx purchased are probably perfect. I also found some similar at Rockler. There were a few others that used the same cans Ruben purchased, but I cant find the thread. I will post up the info later if I find it.

Ronnie

I put up the first coat of stain on the left side tray. It will take another coat of stain before it matches the front stage soffit color. With a single coat, its just slightly lighter.

http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/tray/P5310022.jpg



Ronnie

1st coat of stain finished all the way around. Its hard to tell in the pics, but the tray extends into the room 5" from the soffit. That will leave plenty of room for some rope lighting on top and some compact can lights firing down at the walkway.

Right side:
http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/tray/P5310025.jpg



Left side:
http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/tray/P15310024.jpg

Ronnie

Ronnie,

Nice even coverage. Looks like a quality veneer. Are you applying that with a rag, foam brush or standard brush?

Ronnie,

Nice even coverage. Looks like a quality veneer. Are you applying that with a rag, foam brush or standard brush?

Thanks Steve. The pics really dont do it justice.

Im applying it with a foam brush. The veneer took the stain really well. It was actually a lot easier to get even coverage on it than it was the columns and other woodwork. I pretty much just wiped it down after it set for about 12 minutes and I was done.

I am about to go up and put the second coat on it so it will be ready for the poly tomorrow evening.

Ronnie

Ronnie,
that there is one purdy theeater.

Ronnie,
that there is one purdy theeater.

Thanks Milt99.

2nd coat of stain on the light tray is done. I think the wife is going to kill me for making the house smell like a chemical factory :D Maybe that explains my headache :(

Ronnie

Nice step by step explination Ronnie, Thanks

I did some small piece vaneering ( just the edges of high grade ply) and it wasnt difficult but then again it was only 1 inch wide by 3 feet long so much more managable than what you delt with...not to mention it was already glued...all I had to do was heat it with an iron for the glur to stick. It turned out nice but I think the bigger pieces will be a little more involved. Still......Glad you posted the info...thats good stuff.

Robert

2nd coat of stain on the light tray is done. I think the wife is going to kill me for making the house smell like a chemical factory :D Maybe that explains my headache :(

Ronnie
Ronnie,

I'm with you on the wife and the smell. She is already complaining and I've only done a small 1.5 x 1.5' sample in the GARAGE. I can only imagine doing it in the house.

BTW -- My staining adventure actually turned out pretty well. The first and second "small" samples were a learning exercise but the 3rd (on a large piece) looks perfect (stained it this morning before work). I plan to put some satin poly on it tonight to be sure I like the final color. If all goes well, I'll finish the routing (grooves for the metal inlays and speaker openings) by the weekend and hopefully start staining on Saturday.

Thanks Robert, I am happy to contribute what I can. Just dont take me for any kind of expert at this stuff.


Steve, glad you have the procedure nailed down. I cant wait to see your results. Any chance of a sneak preview? ;)


Ronnie

Steve, glad you have the procedure nailed down. I cant wait to see your results. Any chance of a sneak preview? ;)


Ronnie
Nothing to see yet as I only have the sample stained -- no satin finish yet. However, you might check your email later tonight ;)

My large carpet sample came in today. Im pretty pleased. The wife and relatives really like it also.

Brand = Mohawk/Alladin
Style = Op-art
Color = Stained Glass


Here are a few pics. As usual, the flash seems to make things pop out a little more. In real life, its a bit more subdued. It has enough blue in it to match the walls and the red/orange kinda matches the woodwork. Overall, it seems a lot darker, mostly black, and with controlled lighting in the theater, it dissapears.

http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/carpet/P6010005.jpg


http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/carpet/P6010007.jpg


Here is a shot of the woodwork, gom samples and carpet taken outside. Again, the bright light really makes the colors pop out, even the wood looks lighter. I wish I could get an accurate color pic of this stuff.

http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/carpet/P6010020.jpg



Anyway, They should be out tomorrow to take measurements.

Ronnie

I applied the 1st coat of satin poly to the light tray. I wont bore you guys with pictures since it looks pretty much the same.

Ronnie

I'm not a photography expert by any means, but I've heard that if your camera is capable, using a tripod, setting a long shutter speed, and turning off the flash can make the pictures more accurate.

Oh, and I'm liking your color/pattern choices more and more..

I'm not a photography expert by any means, but I've heard that, if your camera is capable, using a tripod, setting a long shutter speed, and turning off the flash can make the pictures more accurate.

Yes, I do that a lot. Indirect flash works great too.

The thing I have found is that digital cameras generally dont like long exposure times. They get very grainy and have all kinds of pixelated artifacts.

Thanks for the suggestion.

Ronnie

Ronnie,

I love how everything coordinates with each other. I think you have a winner.

The carpet guy just came by for an estimate. Right on time. He was talking about several other theaters he has done lately in the area. I think he was more excited about doing this than I am... :D Nice to see others take a genuine interest in their work.

Ronnie

Colour schemes looks great - can't wait to see the final outcome. Just promise to stay around on the forum for us that are still ways behind you.

Colour schemes looks great - can't wait to see the final outcome. Just promise to stay around on the forum for us that are still ways behind you.

No problem BritInVA. I was here for several years prior to starting, and I dont plan on going anywhere. This place is a goldmine for knowledge.


Are you close to Richmond? I will be there next week.

Ronnie

Lookin good! Remind me again what type of wood those columns are.... oak?

Lookin good! Remind me again what type of wood those columns are.... oak?


Thanks Jerrod. Yes, all the woodwork is oak. The columns were made out of 4x8 sheets of 3/4" Oak plywood.

Page 13 of my thread begins the column construction and includes pics of the oak plywood used.

Ronnie

I finished up the last coat of poly on the light tray this morning. Once it dried, I took some final pics. Next I will need to cut some holes for the 4" cans that will go into the underside of the tray.


This is down the right side and the back.

http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/tray/P6030006.jpg



This is down the left side and the back.

http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/tray/P6030015.jpg



This is an overall shot from the stage looking back.

http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/tray/P6030019.jpg



Left side looking towards front stage soffit.

http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/tray/P6030022.jpg



Right side looking towards front stage soffit.

http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/tray/P6030024.jpg


Here are both corners where the 45's meet.

http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/tray/P6030009.jpg http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/tray/P6030023.jpg


Ronnie

I cant remember if I mentioned this before or not. The underside of the soffit where the black paint is located will be covered with black fabric frames. This will make the bottom of the tray flush with the fabric.

I also plan on doing a star ceiling down the road. Thats why the side of the soffits up to the ceiling are painted black. I will most likely paint the ceiling some sort of blue color similar to what others have done until I go with the stars. Probably Milano blue, Valspar Volcano or similar. Who knows, I may just like the blue and stick with it.

Ronnie

Love the way the wood grain 'pops' .....looking great

The tray looks great, love the final coat "pop". When you finnish I may jus thave to take a flight to come check this masterpiece out :D

Robert

Looks great. I love seeing this because it's a lot like what I'm planning. I never thought of using black GOM and the wood on the underside of the soffit. I was planning on doing wood on the whole bottom. Any reason why you decided against that?

Probably so he could use the soffit as a large bass trap.

Looks great. I love seeing this because it's a lot like what I'm planning. I never thought of using black GOM and the wood on the underside of the soffit. I was planning on doing wood on the whole bottom. Any reason why you decided against that?


I never really thought about using wood for the entire bottom surface. That would require a 2' width of woodwork on the bottom side. Thats quite a bit of surface.

I also could have went without the Gom frames, but I wanted a flush finished look.

Make sense?

Ronnie

Bud? It looks like your not the only one with carpet issues. I thought I would give them another shot at this thing after the weird questions and answer session I had with them the other day about installation.

Salesman called me back today with an estimate. First try was 63 yards of carpet and almost $1900 dollars. :eek: I freaked and asked why they needed 63 yards of carpet for a 16x20 room. Thats around 36 yards. Now I was expecting a little waste, but come onnnnnnn!!!! The tried to tell me since my riser was in the middle of the room, that they had to cut an entirely new piece of carpet for that. After I explained that I thought that was insane, they redid the measurements and got it down to 54 yards. Still Insane. That will be $1644. $60 of that is extra labor to do the stage and riser. In your experience, is it normal for them to charge extra for that?

Anyway, since I am out of town for what amounts to the entire month of June except for 2 days, I told them to wait until I get back for a decision. I am going to take it upon myself to break out visio or sketchup and figure out how they need to lay the carpet to reduce the waste to a reasonable amount. The repeat for the pattern is 12"x12". Sheeeeezzzzzzzz :( I guess when they see and hear Home Theater, its KA-Ching!!!!!

In the meantime, I have another company coming over to do another measure and estimate. Im curious to see what they come up with.

Ronnie

Ronnie I looked at your layout drawing and have a couple of questions about the carpet. Is the carpet 12' goods or 13'6" or 15' wide ? Did they intend to do a length wise seam?
If it's 12' goods I think you could run the short way and have the seam fall under your last row of seating. That would give you a short exposed seam on either side of the seats. You would need 2 breathes. 1) 12x16'3" and 1)12'x17'3".
The first drop would be from the front stage and the width would fall under the last row of seats. The 17'3" piece would do the stage with match and the fill for the rest of the theater.
That's 24' wide of carpet for a 20' room with 2-12" matches. That leaves 2x17'3" to do the riser.
I'm not a carpet guy I'm a hard surface installer but after 30yrs in flooring I know when someone is getting DOGGED :)
As far as the extra labor for the riser that depends on what needs to be done.
Just like doing steps, if you just waterfall the steps there is no extra charge but if they're wrapped or Hollywood then the price goes up.
I'm just going from looking at the drawing and don't know what the carpet looks like but 63yds is a lot to much.

Ronnie,

Oh man...

When you said "give them" another shot. Who is them? HD?

One thing to note that I believe most bolts of carpet are 12 feet wide, so if you've got 16 feet, it's like double the carpet becuase of the seam and the waste. You have to pay for that second piece thats 12x20, even though you only need a piece (4x20 ) to complete the room. That's assuming they're running it lengthwise. If you ran it widthwise, then you've got two pieces that would run 12x16 and the after it was seamed, you'd have a piece a 4x16 piece left over. You'd have less waste, but not by much. That's part of the problem. Granted, some of that could be used for your riser.

After they did my measurement, they generate a "cut sheet" (not sure of the official name) that lays out all the section of carpet required for an install to maximize usage and minimize waste. That's what you want to see. That gives you an idea of how much carpet they're planning on selling you and how much you'll be paying for.

I don't have my totals, becuase they shorted that one piece and missed the other (and they're eating it), but I think my install would have been around 750.00-800.00 for my room (12x19) if it was done correctly.

Bud

Mrpergo beat me to it!

They charge for steps here. It's 10 a step, so install on my steps down to the basement was 160.00 extra.

Bud

Wow, that's definitely a rip off. I'm going to go through a small carpet company that buys wholesale from carpet distributors. They add a personal touch and are very reasonable. It also helps that they're an old friend.. :) (But I like the idea anyway.. same with buying our vacuum..nothing expensive, but it works very well).

I want to give you guys a little more information about the layout. MrPergo, thanks for the insight. I have a riser that I dont think you included in your calculation. This seems to be what is causing all their trouble. I dont see it as that big of an issue, but im not a carpet guy. I have 4 steps. The riser and stage have a 3" lip and the carpet will just be rounded over the lip and stapled to the underside.

I have not had a chance to try and figure this out yet, but I am including the drawing from the carpet company. My stage and riser are 12" high. Steps are 6" high. I only need the top of each platform and the top of the steps carpeted, along with the floor. None of the facing for the stage or riser will be carpeted since its all oak.

The floor walkways around the riser are 2'10" on the sides and 2" on the rear.

The carpet comes in 12' width. The patter repeat is 12"x12"

I really dont care how many seams they use as long as you cant see them.

http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/carpet/carpet.gif

Ronnie

I just noticed a few things on the drawing above after I posted. Some of his measurements are not accurate. I am not at home to verify, but there are a few things I know are not right.

1. The room is exactly 16' wide. He has an extra 3".
2. The walkway on each side of the riser is only 30" He added another 4"
3. The walkway behind the riser is 24". He added another 6"

I had already edited the stage and riser dimensions before posting. He had them 12" wider than what they actually are. Stage is 5' and riser is 6' wide, front to back. He had them at 6' & 7' respectively.

Is this kind of stuff normal?

Ronnie

Ronnie the measures are okey. If you notice in my post above I gave you a 16'3" for the first drop and then a 17'3". Thats kind of and industry standard.
When the carpet comes in, even though it is suppose to be 12' wide it will vary up to 3" either way depending on the mill. The other measures are fat for cutting and tucking.
I've reworked the cut sheet and they should be able to do the job with 47.33 yd

well that didn't work to well, you can't read the attachment.
I'll do reattach when I get back from a measure.

Ronnie if you want to PM me with an Email addy I'll send you a good drawing with the cuts and measurements. I can't get anything resized that is acceptable to post.
While I was out I stopped by flooring place I do business with and went over your drawing with one of the carpet guys and he said that my cuts and drops should work no problem. You can show it to your carpet people and see what they say. If they say it won't work, maybe they could explain why.
Hopefully it helps you out a little.

Wow, MrPergo. Thats really cool. I appreciate you doing this.

PM sent.


Ronnie

MrPergo,

The attachment is a '.bmp' which was why you were having a difficult time with the attachment. Save it as a '.jpg' and you shouldn't have any problems making it big enough to read. Just an FYI, because others might want to see the layout too.

PNG format is a much better algorithm, and usually smaller to boot.

I am finally back home after what amounted to almost a month on the road. I sure missed the HT. I hope the other guys kept you entertained while I was out.

1 week in Richmond, VA
10 days in Chester England
2 days in Galveston, Tx
7 days on a Caribbean cruise.

The first two trips were business related and the last 9 days was our family summer vacation. I needed it! :D


If any of you guys ever get a chance to visit England, I would suggest Chester. Its convenient to Liverpool and Manchester. Very very nice place and the people are wonderful. I spent 2 weeks in London a few years ago, but I have to say Chester is my favorite. Man, England has the best beer!! I think I tried them all :p


Now that I am back, hopefully I can get the carpet squared away next week. Once thats taken care of, I can start on the fabric. Things should begin to flow pretty fast again.

Ronnie

Welcome back Ronnie. Glad to hear you had a great time. One of these days I'll make it abroad. The closest I've been to England is the mini-England they have at Disney World. They did have some of those red phone booths and a Pub -- does that count? :rolleyes:

Welcome back Ronnie. Glad to hear you had a great time. One of these days I'll make it abroad. The closest I've been to England is the mini-England they have at Disney World. They did have some of those red phone booths and a Pub -- does that count? :rolleyes:


Only if they had Pints!

Ronnie - Maybe you can now help offset the myph that Brits drink warm beer - that dates back to when beer was stored in wooden barrels and only cooling was a celler. Now admittedly we don't tend to drink ice-cold beer but we also don't tend to go above 90deg often.

What was your favorite beer?

Welcome Back

Ronnie - Maybe you can now help offset the myph that Brits drink warm beer - that dates back to when beer was stored in wooden barrels and only cooling was a celler. Now admittedly we don't tend to drink ice-cold beer but we also don't tend to go above 90deg often.

What was your favorite beer?

Welcome Back


The warm beer thing is definately a misconception. As americans, we tend to drink our beers a little on the frosy side which probably helps propel this myth. They were all cold. Just not with the ice on top :)

Its my opinion that drinking a beer when its on the edge of being ice removes a lot of the flavor. I think you guys over there probably agree. Beer in the UK is an art. It kinda reminds we of the way you would approach wine. They are all chilled to certain temperatures to bring out the best flavor. You guys have the beer down.

I would have to say my favorite is the Guinness extra cold. Its served at about 38 degrees F. Its Excellent. The Guinness they put out over here in the states does not even compare.

The Murphy was also excellent. I like the stout beers.

Ronnie

I would have to say my favorite is the Guinness extra cold. Its served at about 38 degrees F. Its Excellent. The Guinness they put out over here in the states does not even compare.
Ronnie

If you liked the Guiness in England then just wait till you try it in Ireland (a great vacation destination too) - its soooo much better......I don't even bother with Guiness in US, its just not same I'd rather wait untill I go back.

Ya, we wanted to go to Ireland over the weekend while we where so close, but we just couldnt work it out with everyone.

When I was on my way to Chester from the airport in Manchester, I saw this tanker truck pass by. You know the kind we see in the US carrying gasoline. Well, this one was loaded with Guinness. I knew we were in trouble when I saw that!

Ronnie

Ronnie, Love the Columns

Question?:

1. How Deep is the top vs the bottom?

2. At what height are you mounting your surround speakers and are you mounting the speakers to the wall or building a shelf with in the columns?

3. Is there enough depth at that height in your columns?

4. I assume your are using Direct Radiating vs. Dipole.

I am a newbie so anything would help if I want to get creative with my columns in the future

Thanks in Advance...

Ronnie, Love the Columns

Question?:

1. How Deep is the top vs the bottom?

2. At what height are you mounting your surround speakers and are you mounting the speakers to the wall or building a shelf with in the columns?

3. Is there enough depth at that height in your columns?

4. I assume your are using Direct Radiating vs. Dipole.

I am a newbie so anything would help if I want to get creative with my columns in the future

Thanks in Advance...


Thanks Kermie.

1. The top is 14" deep and the bottom is 7" deep. I wanted something shallow at the bottom so it didnt interfere with foot traffic, but at the same time give me some room up top for speakers. I think the combo worked out well.

2. Currently I plan on mounting them at about 6-7 feet high. This may change once I decide on a speaker. Most likely, I will mount them to the wall using a shelf or brackets.

3. I have 9" of depth at the 5' mark. It quickly gets deeper as I move up at that point. I have about 11.5" at the 6.5' mark.

4. Yes, i will need to use something that is direct radiating and front firing due to the column design. I am looking at something like the Ascend 340 SE's. They are 10.5' deep.


Here is a quick drawing to help explain the side dimensions of the columns.

http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/columns/column_side_dim.jpg


Welcome to the forum. Be sure to keep us posted as you start your theater.

Ronnie

Glad to see you made it back Ronnie...sounds like you had a great trip. Well the beer part sounded grteat anyway :D

Look forward to seein more progress on your theater as well.

Robert

Thanks Robert. Im anxious to get started again.

Ronnie

Small update: I can finally say I feel like I have at least made a little progress since my return. I ordered the carpet today.

First, I want to thank MrPergo for helping me with the cut sheets and yardage. Your help was valuable.

After dealing with 4 different carpet companies, none of them would buy off on the 48yds we came up with. It was just way to close for their comfort and would require almost perfect precision in the cuts. So, we made some compromises.

Bad news: Well, not so bad. I went with a quote of 55 yards. This will also do the front face of my seating riser. Thats an additional one foot that was not included in the original measurements.

Good news: They took off an additional $1 per foot on the price to compensate for this. Its still a little higher than the 48yd price. but not much.


All in all, I'm satisfied and ready to get this done. It will take approx 5-7 days for the carpet to arrive, then we will set up an installation time 2-3 after that. Based on that, I should have it all done by the end of the month.

Ronnie

Hey Ronnie welcome back :)
Congrats on the carpet deal. I don't understand why they weren't comfortable with 48 yds. When they say it would take precision cuts, isn't that what your paying them for. Maybe its because I've been in the business so long, but when I measure a job for someone I don't pad the material just because it would be easier if I had 5 or 10 extra boxes :eek:
Oh well you got a fair deal and I'm sure you'll be happy when it's all over.
Welcome back

Hey Ronnie welcome back :)
Congrats on the carpet deal. I don't understand why they weren't comfortable with 48 yds. When they say it would take precision cuts, isn't that what your paying them for. Maybe its because I've been in the business so long, but when I measure a job for someone I don't pad the material just because it would be easier if I had 5 or 10 extra boxes :eek:
Oh well you got a fair deal and I'm sure you'll be happy when it's all over.
Welcome back


I agree 100%, but after talking with 4 of them, I could see what was coming.

I would be at home on the day of install. They would show up and start. 4 hours later they would call me to come upstairs because they didnt quite have enough (for whatever reason) and they needed to order another strip. Since I insisted that they do it with 48, it would be my fault. I dont think I would get as lucky as Bud and they would pay for the additional since I pushed them on it.

I wanted to save as much as possible, but I had to compromise. :(


Again, I really appreciate the work you did trying to solve my issue.

Ronnie

wow Ronnie you have been seriously busy your self looks awesome!!! nice work on the veneere(speling) look forward to seeing the progress

Looking awesome Ronnie.

I got a question for you about the veneer on the light trays. Why did you put a seam right in the bottom middle of the tray? Why not one peice, one wrap from front to back?

http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/tray/P6030015.jpg

Ruben

I ordered the carpet today.

All in all, I'm satisfied and ready to get this done. It will take approx 5-7 days for the carpet to arrive, then we will set up an installation time 2-3 after that. Based on that, I should have it all done by the end of the month.

Ronnie
Can't wait to see that carpet installed. It should look awesome.

Looking awesome Ronnie.

I got a question for you about the veneer on the light trays. Why did you put a seam right in the bottom middle of the tray? Why not one peice, one wrap from front to back?

http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/tray/P6030015.jpg

Ruben

Ruben, thats not a seam you see. Thats the way the veneer is. I believe because its the type of cut I purchased. Flat vs 1/4 or rotary. Its not nearly as noticable in person as it appears on that pic.

I used 2 peices of veneer to do the tray. 1 peice is on the 5" face, and the other is on the 10" bottom. I left a sharp edge, so I didnt wrap it like you did.

Ronnie

Can't wait to see that carpet installed. It should look awesome.


Its just a short drive :D



Ronnie

Thanks Kermie.

1. The top is 14" deep and the bottom is 7" deep. I wanted something shallow at the bottom so it didnt interfere with foot traffic, but at the same time give me some room up top for speakers. I think the combo worked out well.

2. Currently I plan on mounting them at about 6-7 feet high. This may change once I decide on a speaker. Most likely, I will mount them to the wall using a shelf or brackets.

3. I have 9" of depth at the 5' mark. It quickly gets deeper as I move up at that point. I have about 11.5" at the 6.5' mark.

4. Yes, i will need to use something that is direct radiating and front firing due to the column design. I am looking at something like the Ascend 340 SE's. They are 10.5' deep.


Here is a quick drawing to help explain the side dimensions of the columns.

http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/columns/column_side_dim.jpg


Ronnie

This is awesome! I really like the space saving design. What is the width of the columns? I'm guessing at least 10" if you use the CMB-170's. Are you going with the "overkill" 340 SE's for the surrounds too?

I'm trying to decide if 340 SE's all around would really be necessary...

gary

Aren't the Ascend 340/170's ported designs non-optimal for column/wallmounting. I think you need the HTM-200's for that purpose?

Aren't the Ascend 340/170's ported designs non-optimal for column/wallmounting. I think you need the HTM-200's for that purpose?
I asked Ascend this very question. Dave over at Ascend told me 3" behind the 170s is fine (assuming the speaker is crossed at 80Hz). However, he did not recommend plugging the port. He also said the 200s performance will surprise me (as long as you have a sub and are crossing over at 80Hz).

IMO -- If you have the port clearance for the 170s fit, get those over the 200s. I think they will sound better with MC music.

OK - so if I steal the column designs here cause I have no originality whatsoever, as long as the speaker is 3 or more inches off the wall on a "shelf" inside the column, it will be fine. I wish I had a clue what it means when you say "as long as you have a sub and are crossing over at 80Hz".

I plan on buying the Ascend package of 340's and 170's and the VTF-2 MK2 sub

thanks,

Gary

That just means that those speakers aren't going to extend very low, so you'll need a sub, and to have that sub really start working around 80Hz and below.

This is awesome! I really like the space saving design. What is the width of the columns? I'm guessing at least 10" if you use the CMB-170's. Are you going with the "overkill" 340 SE's for the surrounds too?

I'm trying to decide if 340 SE's all around would really be necessary...

gary

Gary, the columns have an internal width of 14". Plenty of space.

I have not actually decided on a specific speaker yet. I do like the 340's and the 170's. I believe I would have the 3" of rear clearance for the port on these if I mounted them a little higher in the column.

Ronnie

That just means that those speakers aren't going to extend very low, so you'll need a sub, and to have that sub really start working around 80Hz and below.


I should be fine then with the HSU sub. Thanks!

Gary

Great news! Carpet arrived at the carpet company this morning and they have set me up for an install in the morning.

Finally, some progress.....


Ronnie

Great news! Carpet arrived at the carpet company this morning and they have set me up for an install in the morning.

Finally, some progress.....


Ronnie
Guess you'll be "working from home" tomorrow! Don't forget about the pics.

Guess you'll be "working from home" tomorrow! Don't forget about the pics.


Yes sir. This is great news. I wasnt expecting it to get here until Friday and then be installed sometime next week. Now, I can install the columns and start on the fabric framing this weekend!

Ronnie

I spent most of this evening cleaning everything out of the theater in preperation for the carpet installation tomorrow. One of the things I did was to cover all my oak woodwork with some heavy duty builders (Kraft) paper. This stuff was very thick. I wanted to make sure THIS (http://members.cox.net/nebrunner/profloor.htm) did not happen to me. :eek:

A few pics of it.

Stage facing:

http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/P7190102.jpg


Side of seating riser:

http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/P7190103.jpg


Back of seating riser:

http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/P7190104.jpg


Ronnie

Good thinking....

Cant wait to see the carpet pics


Robert

Darn good idea Ronnie. Hopefully the guys you chose will be careful anyway. Good luck this monring with the install!

Can't wait to see more pics....
Great idea on the riser for carpet installation to protect your wood work.

Carpet guys showed up bright and early this morning. Actually about 30 minutes before scheduled. So far they have installed the padding and are currently working on the floor. Its looking good so far.


Padding:

http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/carpet/P7200100.jpg


1st piece of carpet being fitted.

http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/carpet/P7200104.jpg


More to come.

Ronnie

Dude, your pictures are not showing up! Tease!

Bud

Fine for me Bud. Looking good Ronnie.

Hmmm, maybe its firefox, let me check IE.

Bud

That was it. Wierd. Looks good Ronnie!

Bud

That was it. Wierd. Looks good Ronnie!

Bud
Firefox for you. ;)

sounds like Bud has been hitting the Guinness he has stacked in that little fridge down in the HT. :D


Ronnie

You're not alone Bud, didn't show for me either.

Carpet looks good Ronnie(after using IE).

Nelson

sounds like Bud has been hitting the Guinness he has stacked in that little fridge down in the HT. :D
Of course! What goes better with the British Open in HD than a nice Guinness? It's nice to work from home!

Bud

There are backslashes (a Windoze thing) in the links to the photographs.
That's why Firefox doesn't display them. IE (being a Windoze thing) doesn't care. :eek:

There are backslashes (a Windoze thing) in the links to the photographs.
That's why Firefox doesn't display them. IE (being a Windoze thing) doesn't care. :eek:


Ok, sorry about that. I didnt notice the \ on my cut and paste. Its fixed now and you Mozilla'rs should be fine. :p

Ronnie

:D Yup, works a champ in Firefox, now - Thanks! :D

They are working on the seating riser now. The flash really lightens up the carpet. Once everything is done, I will try take some better pics.

http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/carpet/P7200106.jpg


Ronnie

Looks good Ronnie. Try and keep the buttcracks out of the photos! :D

Bud

Looks good Ronnie. Try and keep the buttcracks out of the photos! :D

Bud

Even this one? :eek:

http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/alba600.jpg

Ronnie

Quick update. It took most of the day to get this done. I guess HT's are a little harder with all the curves, steps, etc. They ran out of staples and it was 5pm, so they will be coming back tomorrow to finish it off. Its looking pretty good. They only have a few steps and some other minor things to finish off.

Here are a few more pics.


Stage: they still need to finish stapling and trimming the overhangs and steps.

http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/carpet/P7200111.jpg


Riser: they need to finish the steps, some of the rollovers and trim.

http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/carpet/P7200110.jpg


Ronnie

Very nice! I really like the pattern on the carpet. Where did you get it from again?

Very nice! I really like the pattern on the carpet. Where did you get it from again?

I purchased the carpet at a local carpet store, but you can get it almost anywhere. I had 4 local places give me estimates and all of them carried it. Everyone orders their carpets from Georgia anyway.

Brand = Mohawk/Alladin
Style = Op-art
Color = Stained Glass


Ronnie

Ronnie,

Looks like they made some nice progress. It will be nice with the black leather recliners. Guess it's time to get a wide angle lens for your camera!

Looking good, I like the carpet but I have to agree with Bud. Gotta keep the buttcracks out of the pics ;) Oh yeah and you can never have enough Guinness :D

Drew

Ronnie,

Looks like they made some nice progress. It will be nice with the black leather recliners. Guess it's time to get a wide angle lens for your camera!


Thanks Steve. Ya, I could use one. I guess I will have to stitch together the pics until I purchase the digital slr and some lenses.

Ronnie

I purchased the carpet at a local carpet store, but you can get it almost anywhere. I had 4 local places give me estimates and all of them carried it. Everyone orders their carpets from Georgia anyway.

Brand = Mohawk/Alladin
Style = Op-art
Color = Stained Glass


Ronnie


Looking great!!! I'm needing some carpet for my HT project and was trying to browse the "Op-art" style at Mohawk's website. However, it doesn't show up. Any other possible name for that style?

John

Looking great!!! I'm needing some carpet for my HT project and was trying to browse the "Op-art" style at Mohawk's website. However, it doesn't show up. Any other possible name for that style?

John

The Mohawk site isnt that user friendly or helpful. All the dealers I talked to had it listed as Mohawk, op-art, stained glass. There are about 6 color styles in the Op-art line.

Try these (http://www.flooringmax.com//carpetcolor.asp?code=1243&theme=Mohawk%20Aspects&Type=Commercial) guys for some sample views.

If you have any decent carpet places in your city, chances are they will have it.

Ronnie

Love the carpet Ronnie...good choice in my book...

As for the buttcracks...if they are like that last photo you posted...I say throw caustion to the wind and keep on postin :D

Have you decided what speakers you will be going with yet??? Im just curious because I am finally getting to start my theater next month once I get home and I am trying to decide about equipment now. I know I have a while to worry about it but just trying to figure stuff out ahead of time.

Robert

Hey Robert! Good to hear from you again.

I have not made a decision on the speakers yet.

Ronnie

Carpet guys are here again bright and early to finish up everything. Hopefully it wont take them to long.

Ronnie

Carpet is finished! I have to say I am very pleased with the work these guys have done. They truly treated the room like it was their own. Nice attention to detail. There are just a few minor nicks on the woodwork that I can touch up, but overall, they did a spectacular job. They also glued all my rope lighting up for me without even asking. I was expecting to mount that stuff back under the riser myself, but when I came up to see the final, they had already done it. :D

The room sorta takes on a whole new look now. Amazing how carpet can do that. I cant wait to put the columns in this weekend and start on the fabric panels.

I will post up some pics of the finished carpet later today.

Ronnie

Here are a few panoramic pics (for Steve :D ). Almost as good as having a wide angle lens.

You guys should check out this free software for stitching photo's. Its called AutoStitch and its about as simple as you could get. You just point it at the group of photos and it goes to work. You dont even need them to be in any special order. It also has tons of options for the output file.
You can get it here (http://www.cs.ubc.ca/~mbrown/autostitch/autostitch.html) .


Looking forward: (2 photos stitched)

http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/carpet/stage-pano.jpg



Looking back: (3 photos stitched) The perspective is a little off and it makes the stage appear to be curved the opposite way, but you get the idea.

http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/carpet/Seating-pano.jpg


Ronnie

It looks awesome! Again great choice on carpet.

Thanks BW

Ronnie,

They did do a nice job on the carpet. I might need to get the name of those guys from you next time we see each other. The pana-pics look great. I'll check out that app you suggested too.

Do you plan to get the columns mounted in the room this weekend?

That looks great Ronnie! Thanks for the info on the carpet.

John

Thanks guys. Yes, I plan on having the columns installed this weekend. That shouldnt take long at all. After that, I want to start on the fabric framing.

Ronnie

It looks awsome Ronnie....I will certianly have to check out that program as well.

It is amazing how carpeting seems to pull the entire room together, even without the columns the room looks mostly finnished now.....Awsome

So you will soon have to decide on those other elements...speakers, PJ...when to have me over for a beer and a movie :D....uh I mean when to have your first HT meet...etc etc

Robert

I really like the carpet you chose! I am currently drywalling my HT, but I progress very slowly (newborn, having to work, the usual stuff :) ) . I'll probably be carpetting before the end of 2010! By then who knows what resolution projectors will support...

Ronnie the carpet looks GREAT!!!
Looks like you had quality installers and plenty of carpet.
Congrats :)

Stef2 and Robert, thanks , I really appreciate the comments.

MrPergo, thank you also. I am very pleased with the job they did. I think it was money well spent. They actually had very little waste left over. I was surprised. They carried out an armload of very thin trimmings and left me the rest, which was 3 small peices.

Ronnie

I spent most of the day cutting a hole in the wall and framing it up for the equipment rack. The equipment will potrude into an 8x10 equipment room. This room also houses all my other home wiring and network equipment (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=572579) . I also temporarily positioned the columns to get a feel for things.

I plan on hiding the equipment behind a hinged fabric panel. The rack itself wont be anything fancy like a MA or anything. I will be using a shelf/bracket style system.

Here is a shot of the rack location with basic framing so far. I still have a lot of work left on it.

http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/rack/P7220016.jpg


Here are a few shots of how the columns look in place.

http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/rack/P7220021.jpg


http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/rack/pano.jpg


Tomorrow I plan on trying to get 1 section of the wall fabric and trim sections done. I plan on doing a test fit to see how it all looks together. This is what I am going for:

http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/fabric/Panel-a1a.jpg
Ronnie

That stiching program is so cool! I am going to borrow a decent camera from my sister and take some new images of my room soon so I can do that!

Ronnie your gonna have one cool looking theater when you get done bud. The columns and the wood working/trim you put in there look great and its all coming together very nicely.

Outstanding work, one of the best on here for sure!!

Robert

Nice job on the rack -- very clean!! As you had seen at my house, I plan to get mine cleaned up once I start terminating AV cables. Now I have something to strive for.

'Rack' looks a lot like mine. I had the builder frame out a 20" wide 'whole in the wall' and I built in a shelving system. I used ply and routed shelf pin holes to give me a flexible setup. I painted the whole thing flat black, framed out the opening and built a glass door. Looks better now than in the pic since I have cleaned it up and added shelves.

Your theater is coming along nicely. I follow a couple of threads and yours is one of them. I dont post much since I rarely have anything to add to the thread :)

http://www.randylowe.com/mediaroom/slides/eqrack.jpg

Ronnie..

I finally started playing around with sketchup now that Im nearing the beggining of my build. I thought it would be more difficult its actually not that bad and pretty cool too. I wish I had started playing with it sooner. I havent quite figured out how to "import" images into it yet though.

Robert

Ronnie..

I finally started playing around with sketchup now that Im nearing the beggining of my build. I thought it would be more difficult its actually not that bad and pretty cool too. I wish I had started playing with it sooner. I havent quite figured out how to "import" images into it yet though.

Robert

Ya, its a nice little program with an easy learning curve. I would highly suggest that you walk through all the online tutorials. They will help you tremendously.

Ronnie

Hi Ronnie:

Congratulations! on a great-looking HT! I have been monitoring your progress with great interest...it's awesome.

I had couple of questions regarding the HT I am designing for my house that is under construction.

1. I have a Sharp 9000 projector and a 110" screen. The viewing distance, based on the calculator, came to 23.1'. I plan to have a sound wall at 21' and I was planning on a recess/soffit to place the projector at 23.1'. How much do I have to drop the 10' ceiling so that the image and PQ is optimal? The top of the screen is about 90" (i.e., 7'6") from the floor. Does the line-of-sight of the projector need to align with the top of the screen?

2. JM Linacoustic material - where can I buy this? And do I need to wrap the stage area with this material although I don't have any windows/light coming through in the back?

Thanks a bunch!
Amar

Hi Ronnie:

Congratulations! on a great-looking HT! I have been monitoring your progress with great interest...it's awesome.

I had couple of questions regarding the HT I am designing for my house that is under construction.

1. I have a Sharp 9000 projector and a 110" screen. The viewing distance, based on the calculator, came to 23.1'. I plan to have a sound wall at 21' and I was planning on a recess/soffit to place the projector at 23.1'. How much do I have to drop the 10' ceiling so that the image and PQ is optimal? The top of the screen is about 90" (i.e., 7'6") from the floor. Does the line-of-sight of the projector need to align with the top of the screen?

2. JM Linacoustic material - where can I buy this? And do I need to wrap the stage area with this material although I don't have any windows/light coming through in the back?

Thanks a bunch!
Amar


Thanks Amar.

I cant really answer your first question. Every projector is different. They all have their own throw distances, resolution, etc. Your best bet would be to post this in the projector forum or check out the sharp website for the specs. Having a projector at 23' from the screen seems way to far though. Maybe somebody can help chime in here.

#2. Linacoustic is for acoustic purposes and does not have anything to do with light. Most will tell you that you need the entire front sound stage to be pretty dead acoustically. This product, along with a lot of others will help you acheive that. You should really read the Acoustical Treatment Master Thread (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=255432). It has a lot of good info.

I live in Dallas and purchased my Linacoustic locally at:

J-MIL Sheet Metal Fabricators
2143 Gus Thomasson, BLDG #2
Mesquite, TX 75150
972-681-2223

$198 total for 100 foot Roll of 1" x 48"

I cant really answer your first question. C'mon Ronnie! You're a HT god now! Not to mention a DIYer's wet dream! :D

Amar,

Helps to post where you live. If you're on the east coast, try www.nbhandy.com.

Bud

C'mon Ronnie! You're a HT god now! Not to mention a DIYer's wet dream! :D

Amar,

Helps to post where you live. If you're on the east coast, try www.nbhandy.com.

Bud


LOL, I appreciate the confidence Bud, but I am far from any of that. I'm barely holding my own here.

Ronnie

LOL, I appreciate the confidence Bud, but I am far from any of that. I'm barely holding my own here.I wish I could do half as well as you have, Ronnie.
I think everything you've built so far is unbelievably beautiful.

Thanks Ronnie! I don't know about the HT God, but I sure appreciate the sharing and the detail that you have taken pains to put here. Ronnie, is a 100' roll enough to cover a 16' back wall and a 110" screen frame? (similar to your design/concept). What about speaker cloth/material for the columns - what would you recommend and where do I buy it?

Bud, I live on the west coast (Sacramento, CA). I will check out the website - hopefully, they will be able to ship it out to the west coast.

Amar

Amar, check at fabricmate.com. They're based in CA. Also, you can look for alternatives with the same properties. You might want to PM bpape for options there.

Bud

VorrlonFog, thanks for the compliments. They mean a lot.


Amar, 100' is more than enough to cover a screenwall. Its 48" wide. If your ceiling is 8' tall, then it would only take 32' of Linacoustic to cover that wall.

As for speaker cloth, there are many options. A lot of guys use GOM. I personally chose to use speaker grille cloth that I purchased at JoAnns Fabric. You can also order speaker fabric from places like Parts Express in several colors.

One very helpful feature of this forum is the "search" function. By searching the forums for your questions, you can find a vast amount of information.

Ronnie

I received my scrim yesterday from Brian/BPape. This will allow me to finish out the acoustics on the side walls and fabric frames.

Thanks for the quick service Brian.

Ronnie

Ronnie,

Love the look of things. The columns are just really sweet looking! Can't wait to see you get started on the fabric.

I finally finished 1 section of the fabric. Sorry it took so long to post the pics. One thing I did different than the sketchup I posted was that I am not doing the black 6" borders at the top and bottom between the wood and the blue fabric. I made sample frames and tested the black border with 3", 6", and 8" borders. It just didn't seem to look right and none of my friends or family thought it added anything. I didn't like it either, so its nixed.


The first thing I built was the fabric frame for the underside of the soffit. This is to dress it out and make it flush with the underside of the light tray. The frame will fit between the columns. My light tray was 3/4" thick, so I needed a 3/4" frame and cover that with black speaker grille cloth. I bought some 1x6 whitewood and cut it into 1.5" strips to use for the frame. Each of the soffit frames will be approximately 59"x19". I biscuit joined the corners, and put a 2" brad nail through them.

Here is a picture of the underside soffit frame finished and painted black.

http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/fabric/P7240002.jpg



Here is a shot of the front and back after its covered with speaker grill cloth. Also include in the picture are the top and bottom 3.5" oak trim pieces. These two items will go at the top of the wall and at the bottom as a footer. I used some left over 3/4 oak and glued a piece of 1/2 osb to the back to make it just a hair over 1" thick. For the remaining trim pieces on the other walls, I will be using 3/4" mdf sandwiched to a piece of 1/4" oak plywood.


http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/fabric/P7280026.jpg http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/fabric/P7280027.jpg


Here it is installed and held in place by friction. The blue tape marks the stud locations so that I can shoot a brad nail through it to secure it in place. Also, from previous pics, you guys probably saw that I had painted the underside of the soffit black. this was to ensure the drywall would not show through this panel.

http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/fabric/P7280039.jpg

Here it is installed and held in place by friction. The blue tape marks the stud locations so that I can shoot a brad nail through it to secure it in place.

Why not use industrial strength velcro and staple both sides of it instead of nailing. The velcro works good for future removing and also reduces chances of vibration knocking the 2 hard surfaces together.


Ruben

Next I started on the framing for the GOM wall fabric. For this frame I used the same 1.5" whitewood strips that I used for the soffit panels. I also cut 1.5" strips of osb and glued the two together to give me the 1" standout that I need to cover the acoustic material. I had this material onhand, thats why I used that particular combo. For the rest of the wall frames, I will be sandwiching 1/2 mdf and 1/2 plywood in 2" strips.

This frame is 59" wide x 88" tall. Its glued, buiscuit joined and 2" brad nailed together. I also used L brackets at the corners for extra stability. Probably didnt need them though.

http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/fabric/P7270014.jpg http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/fabric/P7270018.jpg


Here is the frame along with the top and bottom oak trim being test fitted. You will also notice the linacoustic and scrim. The linacoustic is 4' high and the scrim is 18" high.

http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/fabric/P7280057.jpg



Once I was satisfied that everything would fit together nice and snug, I rolled out the GOM, placed the frame on top, stretched the fabric and stapled it.

http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/fabric/P7290060.jpg http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/fabric/P7290062.jpg


http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/fabric/P7290064.jpg



Finished frame front and back.





http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/fabric/P7290065.jpg http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/fabric/P7290066.jpg



Ronnie

Here is the first section of wall completed. Well almost. I still need to trim it out for the electrical outlet and fix a small wrinkle at the bottom center that I see under this flash photography. Its just friction fit right now.

Also, this stuff isnt nearly this light colored in person. I cant seem to get an accurate picture at all, with or without flash. I guess you guys will just have to come check it out in person. :D


http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/fabric/P7290070.jpghttp://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/fabric/P7290082.jpg


Ronnie

Why not use industrial strength velcro and staple both sides of it instead of nailing. The velcro works good for future removing and also reduces chances of vibration knocking the 2 hard surfaces together.


Ruben


Good tip Ruben. I may do that as I have plenty of industrial strength velcro on hand. That would also be good for the wall panels. I also figured that the fabric would help reduce any vibration since its sandwiced between the frame and the drywall.

Did you use velcro for all your panels? I was thinking you shot a brad through them for some reason.

Ronnie

Ronnie, I just looked up Rockwall, TX and found out you are not too far from Flower Mound, where some friends of ours just relocated to. If we come out and visit them, I will have to look you up! :)

Ronnie, I just looked up Rockwall, TX and found out you are not too far from Flower Mound, where some friends of ours just relocated to. If we come out and visit them, I will have to look you up! :)

You are correct. Flower Mound is about 50-60 minute drive from me. Nice area. Its out close to the DFW Airport. I have a lot of friends out there also.

If your ever in the area, just let me know.

Ronnie

Good tip Ruben. I may do that as I have plenty of industrial strength velcro on hand. That would also be good for the wall panels. I also figured that the fabric would help reduce any vibration since its sandwiced between the frame and the drywall.

Did you use velcro for all your panels? I was thinking you shot a brad through them for some reason.

Ronnie

I used Velcro on everything except the ceiling panels I used brads.

Ruben

I finished cutting all the wood for the rest of the frames and trim. Now I just need to glue the pieces together to get the 1" thickness that I need on the side walls. I will also have to make some 2" thick stuff for the back wall as I will have 2"s of acoustic material on the back.

From left to right:

13 3.5" strips of 1/4 oak
12 3.5" strips of 3/4 mdf
(for the Oak trim peices on top and bottom)

22 2" strips of 1/2" mdf
22 2" strips of 1/2" plywood
(these are for the fabric frames)

http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/fabric/P7300004.jpg


This stuff sure makes a mess. Check out this 5" pile of sawdust.

http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/fabric/P7300006.jpg



I dont know about where you guys live, but its a hot mofo here in Texas. Its a good thing I have one of these, because I had to jump in and cool off about every hour or so today.

http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/fabric/P7300007.jpg


Ronnie

I used Velcro on everything except the ceiling panels I used brads.

Ruben


Thank Ruben, I will try the velcro for mine as well. Did you just put some small strips in strategic places, or did you line the entire frame with it?

Ronnie

I finished cutting all the wood for the rest of the frames and trim. Now I just need to glue the pieces together to get the 1" thickness that I need on the side walls. I will also have to make some 2" thick stuff for the back wall as I will have 2"s of acoustic material on the back.

From left to right:

13 3.5" strips of 1/4 oak
12 3.5" strips of 3/4 mdf
(for the Oak trim peices on top and bottom)

22 2" strips of 1/2" mdf
22 2" strips of 1/2" plywood
(these are for the fabric frames)

http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/fabric/P7300004.jpg


This stuff sure makes a mess. Check out this 5" pile of sawdust.

http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/fabric/P7300006.jpg



I dont know about where you guys live, but its a hot mofo here in Texas. Its a good thing I have one of these, because I had to jump in and cool off about every hour or so today.

http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/fabric/P7300007.jpg


Ronnie
showoff! :p

showoff! :p

Which part? The pile of wood, the pile of sawdust, or the pool? :p

Ronnie

Thank Ruben, I will try the velcro for mine as well. Did you just put some small strips in strategic places, or did you line the entire frame with it?

Ronnie

Just in strategic places. Corners & middle.

Ruben

I started gluing the 1/4" oak to the 3/4" mdf. This will be the top and bottom trim pieces for the rest of the walls.

I used liquid nails to bond the two pieces together. The heavy duty veneer roller that I bought for veneering came in handy for this also. I used it to apply a lot of pressure to make sure the two were bonded very well. Once that was done I clamped the two pieces together for a few minutes and made sure everything was lined up. I also worked one of the wide clamps up and down the surfaces. After that, I moved on to the next two pieces and started the process over.

http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/trim/P7300009.jpg http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/trim/P7300010.jpg http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/trim/P7300011.jpg



Once I had 4 of these done, I clamped them all together and let them sit for about 45 minutes. I have 8 of them done now and they are ready for staining.
Here is some clampage for you guys :D

http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/trim/P7300016.jpg


Ronnie

Sweet Mary, mother of all that is wholly....look at all those clamps!! If there is ever a shortage on clamps in TX you will have the opportunity to make a killing there :D

Looks good man and your back on pace to finnish soon.

Robert

Thanks Robert. I did that shot just for you :D

Ya, Im hoping things will move along a little quicker now. If I could just get all these frames glued together.

Ronnie

I dont have nearly enough tools, equipment or clamps (must buy lots of clamps) ...damn I dread the trip to buy all that stuff, lol

I did buy the Dricrore flooring and hopefully it will be installed when I get home so I can get right into the framing. I also need to look at running another pannel for dedicated theater electric and a minor issue with an upstairs HVAC run that needs some tweeking...but otherwise im quite excited about it. I doubt my end result will look nearly as nice as yours since I simply dont have the wood working skills you do but I am going to damn sure try, lol.

Your theater looks damn good, keep the pics coming!

Robert

BTW....how many frames are you doing?

Each side wall will have the following:

3 fabric frames
6 Oak trim pieces
3 soffit frames.


I will probably break the backwall up into 2-3 sections:

2-3 fabric frames.
4-6 Oak trim pieces
2-3 soffit frames.


The part that sucks is having to glue all these things together to make a 1" thick board. I could not find any 5/4 anywhere. Sure would have made it easier. Im now wondering what to use to give me 2" depth to the back frames.


The soffit frames are nice to do because I can use a 3/4" board and be done with it. It only has to be as deep as my light tray framing which is 3/4".


Ronnie

The part that sucks is having to glue all these things together to make a 1" thick board. I could not find any 5/4 anywhere. Sure would have made it easier. Im now wondering what to use to give me 2" depth to the back frames.

Ronnie
Ronnie,

Everything looks great. Nice job on the frames and fabric stretching. I cannot wait to see this in person :)

On the 2" deep panels, I just ripped down some 2x4s for mine. I did a staggered sandwich technique with the ripped 2x4 (at 1.25") on the bottom and a piece of 3/4" MDF on top. This technique gives you VERY strong panels (once the glue drys) and a great smooth top (because of he MDF). I actually made mine 2 1/8" thick to make sure the 2" insulation I put inside does not pucker the fabric.

BTW -- great looking pool. I may get one of those some day. Also, did you paint your garage floor yourself? If so, was it easy?

Which part? The pile of wood, the pile of sawdust, or the pool? :pThe wood and sawdust, of course. ;)

Ronnie,

Everything looks great. Nice job on the frames and fabric stretching. I cannot wait to see this in person :)

On the 2" deep panels, I just ripped down some 2x4s for mine. I did a staggered sandwich technique with the ripped 2x4 (at 1.25") on the bottom and a piece of 3/4" MDF on top. This technique gives you VERY strong panels (once the glue drys) and a great smooth top (because of he MDF). I actually made mine 2 1/8" thick to make sure the 2" insulation I put inside does not pucker the fabric.

BTW -- great looking pool. I may get one of those some day. Also, did you paint your garage floor yourself? If so, was it easy?


Thanks Steve. I will probably go the 2x4 route as you suggested.

Funny you noticed my garage floor. I did that myself. It was pretty easy, but time consuming. I can tell you that its well worth it to coat your garage floor. It makes cleanup a breeze. Water hose and big squeege. Its a must have if you ask me.

I started with a basecoat of blue paint that was made for this purpose. I then used a handheld wisk broom to speckle on the black and blue paint (that was the time consuming part). Once that was done, I sprayed on a few coats of clear. I dont have all the product names, since I am at work, but I can show you everything once you come over. All this stuff is readily available at HD or Lowes. My bro-in-law did his in plain gray. His seems to look cleaner all the time. Since mine is dark, it shows dirt very easily and I have to clean it out all the time.

Ronnie

Ronnie

I managed to squeeze in 1 day of work on the theater this weekend. Here are a few things I accomplished.

1. Glued together most of my frame and trim pieces to make them 1" thick.
2. Put up another section of wall treatments and trim.
3. Trimmed out electrical outlet from the first frame I put up last week.
4. Made another soffit grill cloth covered frame for the rear corner.
5. Painted a/c air return.
6 Finished up some odds and ends trim pieces around seating riser.


Getting most of the strips glued together for the frames and trim was quite a time consuming chore. Now that that is over, it will be easier to measure, cut and assemble my frames this week.


For the electrical outlet on the fabric panel, I followed suit to what most have done. I cut out a 5"x6" rectangle, then cut a whole in the center for my electrical box extender to slide into. I liquid nailed and brad nailed this board into place. Next I put the fabric frame back up on the wall and cut the fabric in an X shape over the outlet hole. I made a few more cuts and trimmed it up a little so the fabric would fold easily and pushed the outlet extender into place through the fabric. The extender holds the fabric in place. I rewired the outlet and put the cover back on.

http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/fabric/P8050023.jpg http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/fabric/P8050016.jpg http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/fabric/P8050018.jpg http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/fabric/P8050025.jpg





Nothing really exciting, but here is another soffit panel covered with speaker grill cloth. Im putting these on the underside of my soffit to bring it out flush with the 3/4" lip of the light tray. This one was a little tricky due to the shape. It goes around the corner and also had to be shaped to go around the a/c return. The rest of them should be easier since most will be rectangular.


http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/fabric/P8050027.jpg http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/fabric/P8050029.jpg http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/fabric/P8050030.jpg


Here it is installed. Due to the angle of this shot, you can see the white filter in the return. When walking into the room, the grates are angled the other way and it looks black. Anyone know where to get black filters? :(

http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/fabric/P8050032.jpg




And here is a shot of two sections of wall completed. If you remember from some previous pics, each of these fabric frames has 1" linacoustic covering the bottom 4' of wall and an additional layer of foil scrim on the bottom 18".

http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/fabric/P8060048.jpg


Ronnie

That back right wall looks awesome! I can't wait to see what it looks like as a whole with the rest of the room.

I have a question on your outlet cut-around.. What is that black piece (5"x6") that you cutout? I would think you would cutout a piece the size of the junction box hole into the entire piece of linacoustic, but know I must be missing something.

I wonder if black speaker grille cloth would make a good secondary filter... and serve the aesthetic purpose as well.

Thanks Tim, I cant wait either.

The 5" x 6" material is a piece of 1/2" mdf and 1/2" plywood glued together to make it 1" thick. Its just painted black. The outlet extender had some weird shapes to it, so I had to use a dremmel to cut it out. I wanted it to be very snug so it would hold the fabric without stapling. Since my panels are held in place by industrial strength velcro, I wanted this to be easily removable. All I have to do is unwire the outlet, pull the extender out, and remove the whole wall panel. Maybe this pic will help.

http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/fabric/P8050014.jpg


A lot of guys also just put furring strips around their outlets. I guess there is several ways to do this.


EDIT: Oh ya, I dont think you would want to cover your return with anything. Especially black fabric. It would be covered with dust in just a few days. You really dont notice it unless you are looking back at it from a low position due to the angle of the grates.



Ronnie

Ah, that makes sense - thanks for the further explanation.

I also didn't catch that it was a return... I was thinking it was a supply, so the dust would be on the other side of the fabric, but it probably would hinder the air flow too much anyway.

Hi Ronnie:


Does the riser need to be stuffed with insulation? Mine is a 8" riser made of wood, but I have nailed the wood on the top without putting any insulation. Is this OK or you would recommend putting the R-13? FYI, I don't have any butt kickeer or anything under my seats!


Thanks for your advise!

Amar

I finished up the 1st layer of plywood on the riser tonight. Only thing left is the roofing felt, second layer of plywood, and running the rope lights. I guess thats tomorrows task.


1st, here is a picture of the riser stuffed with 6 bags of R-13 insulation.

http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/riser/P3140001.jpg


Here it is topped with the 1st layer. I couldnt have asked for it to come together any better. It was perfectly square, my cross-members matched up, and a nice 2" lip with no cutting except for the steps and the front 2 feet' of plywood that overhung. I wish everything came out that easy. ;)

http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/riser/P3140015.jpg


Ronnie

Hi Ronnie:


Does the riser need to be stuffed with insulation? Mine is a 8" riser made of wood, but I have nailed the wood on the top without putting any insulation. Is this OK or you would recommend putting the R-13? FYI, I don't have any butt kickeer or anything under my seats!


Thanks for your advise!

Amar


Yes, your riser should be stuffed with insulation. You do not want it to resonate.

Ronnie

Looking good Ronnie....Your on the home streatch now.

I really think your going to have one of the finest looking theaters here on AVS when your done!

When you get a little further into this please be sure to add a few of those "wide angle" pics of yours.
Robert

Looking good Ronnie....Your on the home streatch now.

I really think your going to have one of the finest looking theaters here on AVS when your done!

When you get a little further into this please be sure to add a few of those "wide angle" pics of yours.
Robert

Thanks Robert. I really appreciate the comments. There are a ton of great looking theaters out there. I have to thank you guys also. Everyone has contributed a lot to my build. Without everyone support and knowledge, I would be lost.

I promise. Once I get enough fabric up that I cant capture it all with a single shot, I will break out the AutoStitch program.

BTW, I have a new camera on its way to me. Its the Canon EOS Rebel XT (http://www.usa.canon.com/consumer/controller?act=ModelDetailAct&fcategoryid=139&modelid=11154) I have wanted a digital SLR for a while now so that I could get back into photography.

http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/fabric/P8060048.jpg
Ronnie,

WOW -- that looks great. The oak on the side of the columns and on the soffit just POP now that you have the fabric installed. Nice job!

Ronnie, that back wall looks amazing! I love the look of the stained wood against the black fabric. Also really like the single color fabric panels as an alternative to the standard two color with chair rail.

BTW, you'll love the Rebel XT if you're coming from a digital point and shoot of any type. The responsiveness of any dSLR is incredible and call it old school but I like the immersion into the scene you get from using an eye-level viewfinder. Of course I've got way too much Canon equipment myself, so I may be a little biased... :)

Tom

Thanks Tom.

I have had a high end point and shoot (Olympus 3030) for about 5 years now. Its a great camera, and was top of the line when I bought it, but its nothing like an slr. I spent about 10 years (high school, college, and after) shooting with a Minolta x-370 for both pleasure and business. I still own it and all its accsys. I was a lab assistant in college and did a lot of black and white darkroom work as well as worked for a local newspaper as a photographer. Everyone always wants me to do the photography at family events and the wife keeps bugging me to get back into it (she doesnt have to try that hard). For the money, I think the Rebel is the best thing out there. I picked up a 4gb CF card yesterday and I am about to order the battery grip.

I take it you have the Rebel also. I would love to see some of your work. I sure wish the lenses were cheaper :D.

Ronnie

I take it you have the Rebel also. I would love to see some of your work. I sure wish the lenses were cheaper :D.

Ronnie

Weellllllll, no, not exactly. I have a Canon D60 from a few years back before the dRebel wasa available. I also have a Canon 1DMkII that I bought because I wanted to get wider and faster. I love the MkII, but it's a huge camera, and I actually use the D60 more often than the MkII as a result. I hear you on the lenses though, they add up quick.

You can check out some of my photos at my website (http://www.squirrelsnest.net). It's mostly underwater photography (at least what's up there) and some miscellaneous travel photography as well. I have a housing for the D60 that I lug along on dive trips.

My wife keeps threatening to make me fund my future theater with the sale of some of my camera gear. :)

Tom

Killer job. I'm just getting started on my home theater project. I'm in Allen, TX not far from you.

Killer job. I'm just getting started on my home theater project. I'm in Allen, TX not far from you.

Thanks PathDoc. Ya, your about 20 minutes away from me. My brother and his wife live in Allen just north of Exchange Pkwy on the east side of 75.

Be sure to start a thread and supply us with plenty of pics.

Ronnie

Weellllllll, no, not exactly. I have a Canon D60 from a few years back before the dRebel wasa available. I also have a Canon 1DMkII that I bought because I wanted to get wider and faster. I love the MkII, but it's a huge camera, and I actually use the D60 more often than the MkII as a result. I hear you on the lenses though, they add up quick.

You can check out some of my photos at my website (http://www.squirrelsnest.net). It's mostly underwater photography (at least what's up there) and some miscellaneous travel photography as well. I have a housing for the D60 that I lug along on dive trips.

My wife keeps threatening to make me fund my future theater with the sale of some of my camera gear. :)

Tom

Tom, I checked out your site. Very nice pics. Those wrecks are cool. Amazing that nobody disturbs that stuff. Looks like you get to go to some pretty cool places.

Ronnie

Maybe not as exciting for some as a new Ruby, an HSF sub or star ceiling, but I am quite excited about what arrived today.

My new DSLR. Canon Rebel Xt. Its a nice piece of equipment and I cant wait to begin using it. The battery grip and a few other accesories should be here next week.

http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/rebel/P8090006a.jpg http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/rebel/P8090007a.jpg


Ronnie

Maybe not as exciting for some as a new Ruby, an HSF sub or star ceiling, but I am quite excited about what arrived today.

My new DSLR. Canon Rebel Xt. Its a nice piece of equipment and I cant wait to begin using it. The battery grip and a few other accesories should be here next week.

http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/rebel/P8090006a.jpg http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/rebel/P8090007a.jpg


Ronnie
Did you happen to buy a wide-angle lens to take pics of HTs?? Hint.. hint ;)

Hehe..... For now I will have to use AutoStitch. Its going to take a while to build up a lens collection. Those things are not cheap.

Ronnie

One of my buddies has the same camera and loves it. I don't have enough skill with photography to make it worth it. A point and shoot on a tripod is about as sophisticated as I get for now.

Congrats on the purchase.. now get to that star ceiling! :)

Yes I agree with Tim....get to that ceiling, lol

Robert

Congrats on the purchase.. now get to that star ceiling! :)


Yes I agree with Tim....get to that ceiling, lol

Robert



LOL, somehow I knew that if I busted out on Steve/Swithey about finishing his star ceiling, the favor would be returned. :D

Ronnie

Even with the wide angle lens you might be better off with autostitch for some of the shots. Just stick to a "normal" focal length (28-50mm), and I tend to do stitches with the camera held in a vertical orientation.

And I second (or third or fourth) the "get to that ceiling" sentiment. :)

Tom

LOL all in good fun, but it will be nice to follow your approach to it.

Robert

Here it is installed. Due to the angle of this shot, you can see the white filter in the return. When walking into the room, the grates are angled the other way and it looks black. Anyone know where to get black filters?

Here is a link for some cheap black carbon vent filters if you havn't found any yet.

Black vent filters (http://www.improvementscatalog.com/Parent.asp?product=229653x&dept%5Fid=10100&subdept%5Fid=10130)

Keep up the great work.

Good find ccoolidge!

Everytime someone post a good link like that I save it to my "favorites"...damn that list is getting big :D

Robert

Maybe not as exciting for some as a new Ruby, an HSF sub or star ceiling, but I am quite excited about what arrived today.

My new DSLR. Canon Rebel Xt. Its a nice piece of equipment and I cant wait to begin using it. The battery grip and a few other accesories should be here next week.

http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/rebel/P8090006a.jpg http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/rebel/P8090007a.jpg


Ronnie

I just picked up one of these myself. Great camera for the money. I also picked up one of these (http://www.newegg.com/product/product.asp?item=N82E16830999350). It was three times this amount at BB. Have fun with it.

That theater looks great! Definitely inspiration for me to go walk over to the library and study for this MCAT thing...

TP