Yes the MCAT is tough. Now stop reading here and crack open those books.

MCAT was a PITA..

On the Black filters you can get charcoal filter for aircleaners in bulk at Lowes or Homedepot. You'll have to cut it to size but it's the same stuff only has charcoal in it and it's black.

Thanks guys. Great idea on the filter. I could cut this out and place it in front of the electrostatic filter. As long as its not to restrictive, it should work. I do remember seeing this stuff at HD and Lowes, but its plain, not charcoal.

Ronnie

YEah it's basicly a pre filter they use them on allot of the Hunter Air Cleaners as well as other brands. The stuff is somewhat high flow it worked great in my theater after the drywall work to help clean out allot of the dust. I a Train HVAC system with the eletric filter and it did not seem to hurt anything it seemed to help :)

Steve - Nice Progress and an awesome looking HT.

Mark

I made some decent progress over the weekend. I got all the trim pieces cut, stained, and 1st coat of poly. I made several more soffit frames and installed them. I also finished another fabric frame. I have to put one more coat of poly on the trim before I can install them and the fabric frames, so hopefully I can have a finished pic of that tomorrow or Tuesday.


These are not very exciting, but here are a few of the soffit frames. I made 2 of the small ones and they go in the front corners up against the stage soffit. Thats what the curved piece is for. The long frame (6') goes almost the length of the rear soffit. I forgot to take a picture of it finished with the grill cloth. I will then have to make another corner piece similar to the one posted a few days back.

http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/soffit/P8080005.jpg http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/soffit/P8080003.jpg


http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/soffit/P8120010.jpg






I wanted to sorta follow up the stairs with the same style as the rest of my trim, so here is how I decided to do it. First, I used a piece of cardboard to make a template. You can also see where I drew a few different variations on the drywall behind the cardboard.

http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/trim/P8120012.jpg



Once I had the template made, I transferred that to some 3/4" mdf and used a jigsaw to cut it out. I gave myself a little room on the cuts so I could clean it up and make a tight fit later.

http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/trim/P8120013.jpg



I did a test fit and made any minor adjustments that were needed.

http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/trim/P8120016.jpg




Once I had the 3/4" mdf fitting perfectly, I transfered that to a sheet of 1/4" oak plywood and cut it out with a jigsaw. The two pieces were then glued together to give me a 1" thick piece of trim that would match the depth of my fabric frames for a flush look.

http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/trim/P8120017.jpg http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/trim/P8120019.jpg http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/trim/P8120020.jpg




Here are the step trims with a few coats of stain on them.

http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/trim/P8130032.jpg

The fabric frames for the front corners were a little tricky due to the stair trim. I had to make a frame with several angles.


Here is a picture of the frame as I was cutting the linacoustic to go into it. I have found that if you lay the frame on top of the linacoustic, you can use a razor knife and get a perfect fit. You can also see the 18" of scrim that is applied to the bottom portion of the linacoustic. Once i had the linacoustic in place, I could add the middle cross brace for the frame that you will see in the test fit pic.


http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/fabric/P8130023.jpg




Here is a picture of the test fit. I also glued up the linacoustic at the same time. The trim pieces were not finished yet and do not have the poly applied. They are just friction fit for testing. You can also see the soffit frame if you look closely. (lol, I am so used to seeing blue tape, I didnt notice I had a small piece in the pic. I was using that to mark stud locations.)


http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/fabric/P8130026.jpg



Here it is finished out with fabric. Once I get the second coat of poly on the trim, I can put it in place. That will give me an entire wall that is finished. :) The rest shouldnt take that long. Well, except for the hinged framing that will cover the equipment. I am still pondering on how to do that one.

http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/fabric/P8130037.jpg


Ronnie

Ronnie,

Panels look great -- especially the frames for the front corners. I'll bet that one took some think'n to create ;) Very clean job on the fabric application. I know those funky corners were really FUN to do too!!

I think when it comes time I am just going to send you a plane ticket to come help me with trim and fabric frames....just make sure you bring all your clamps :D

Looks great Ronnie...excellent job on the framework. I was wondering how you were going to handle the steps...and now I know how to apporach it too. Great tutorial, thanks!

Robert

Ronnie,

Its hard to tell by the pics but how does the base trim meet up with the column? Does it go behind it or is it cut around the shape of the base of the column?
Dont suppose you could post a close up pic of that area?

Thanks
Robert

well i just read all of this thread...i have a couple of comments

1. it is great to see that you built it yourself with such precision. sometimes i feel people have lost all those woodworking skills and a thread likes this restores my faith. i think a lot of people feel that if you cant buy it prepacked or someone to install it, it isnt real....this thread totally disproves this fatoid. everything you have done looks incredibly professional. i bet anyone who visits will expect you to say that some outside HT firm installed it for you. i am not a lover (generally) of the wood look, but again you have restored my faith! AMEN BROTHER!!!

2. the concept of the curved grilles at the front is a master stroke. they look modern, yet the wood fits perfectly with it. I think the wood brings a classic look yet you have managed to modernise that as well. Excellent choice...looks tremendous.

3. i love the idea of the raised platform for the seating..i read a while back about a guy who installed subs below the seating to make them thump during the movies. i have always been facinated with that!!! one of those ideas i have locked in my brain for the eventaul task i will undertake!

4. how are you intending to house and quieten the projector? sorry if you said it already

5. do you plan on cooling the hidden AV equipment?

the last 2 questions are ones i have wondered about and never managed to answer for myself. they actually maybe non issues, it just one of those things i wondered about.

so congrats Ronnie...give yourself a huge pat on the back. it looks absolutely stunning. hell i would pay to goto a theatre like that! LOL!!!

bravo!!


Tom

The fabric frames for the front corners were a little tricky due to the stair trim. I had to make a frame with several angles.That's absolutely beautiful and high quality detail work youve done on the wood trim and fabric frames around the stage. I believe you're setting a new standard for DIY work. Thanks for inspiring me with your efforts. :)

Ronnie,

Panels look great -- especially the frames for the front corners. I'll bet that one took some think'n to create ;) Very clean job on the fabric application. I know those funky corners were really FUN to do too!!


Thanks Steve. Ya, they were a bit tricky.

Ronnie

Ronnie,

Its hard to tell by the pics but how does the base trim meet up with the column? Does it go behind it or is it cut around the shape of the base of the column?
Dont suppose you could post a close up pic of that area?

Thanks
Robert


Robert, here is a closeup of the trim where it meets the columns. The trim is 3.5" tall for reference. It goes behind the two tiered base plate and against the side of the column. I did not go behind the columns. (I guess I should have dusted them off first :rolleyes: )


http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/trim/P8140004.jpg



Since the fabric panel and trim are 1" thick, it gives the columns the appearance that they are thinner than they really are.

Ronnie

Man, I know everybody has already said this, but Fantastic wood work, I love your attention to detail this has really been a great theatre in the making, well done! very very well done!

well i just read all of this thread...i have a couple of comments

1. it is great to see that you built it yourself with such precision. sometimes i feel people have lost all those woodworking skills and a thread likes this restores my faith. i think a lot of people feel that if you cant buy it prepacked or someone to install it, it isnt real....this thread totally disproves this fatoid. everything you have done looks incredibly professional. i bet anyone who visits will expect you to say that some outside HT firm installed it for you. i am not a lover (generally) of the wood look, but again you have restored my faith! AMEN BROTHER!!!

2. the concept of the curved grilles at the front is a master stroke. they look modern, yet the wood fits perfectly with it. I think the wood brings a classic look yet you have managed to modernise that as well. Excellent choice...looks tremendous.

3. i love the idea of the raised platform for the seating..i read a while back about a guy who installed subs below the seating to make them thump during the movies. i have always been facinated with that!!! one of those ideas i have locked in my brain for the eventaul task i will undertake!

4. how are you intending to house and quieten the projector? sorry if you said it already

5. do you plan on cooling the hidden AV equipment?

the last 2 questions are ones i have wondered about and never managed to answer for myself. they actually maybe non issues, it just one of those things i wondered about.

so congrats Ronnie...give yourself a huge pat on the back. it looks absolutely stunning. hell i would pay to goto a theatre like that! LOL!!!

bravo!!


Tom


Tom, thanks for all the comments. They mean a lot, especially since I really have no prior woodworking experience at all. I am also a fan of nice woodwork. Doing something like this myself gives me total appreciation for the real woodworkers.


For the projector, I will build a hush box to go around it. I will design it to look similar to the rest of the wood in the room. Hopefully I can integrate it without it standing out to much.

My AV/network closet is cooled with a single vent coming from my upstairs AC unit. At this point, I think this will be sufficient. If it proves to be a problem, I will have to make some modifications.


Thanks again for all your comments.

Ronnie

That's absolutely beautiful and high quality detail work youve done on the wood trim and fabric frames around the stage. I believe you're setting a new standard for DIY work. Thanks for inspiring me with your efforts. :)


Thanks Keith.

Ronnie

Thanks for the pic Ronnie...that clears it up.

Robert

Great job on the woodwork Ronnie, it gives me hope I'll do ok when I do my theater!

Tom

I finally finished 1 entire wall. I think things turned out pretty good. Sorry it took me so long :o


In this pic, I had to turn up the exposure on the camera so you could see the woodwork under the soffit. I also have all the lights on and used a flash, so the fabric looks very bright under these conditions. Its really a lot darker.

http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/fabric/IMG_0061.jpg


here is a picture of the stair trim and front panel completed.

http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/fabric/IMG_0035a.jpg






I also need to ask you guys for some help. I need to make a frame for the section that has my equipment rack. I want to hide the equipment so the wall will look like just like the others. I am troubled in how to accomplish this. Im thinking about splitting the difference of the wall with two frames, but mount the left hand side on hinges. Then cover the entire thing with a single sheet of fabric that would fold in if you opened the left panel. One concern is that over time it wont stand up to the abuse.

The other option would be to make 2 separate panels, but that would leave a seam down the center. It might not really be that noticeable, but I think I would see it and that might bother me. Not sure.

Does anyone have any ideas they could throw at me? Also, what type of hinges would work for something like this? The frames will be 1" thick.

Here is a picture of the wall that it would be located on.

http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/fabric/IMG_0040a.jpg


Ronnie

Maybe you could put the hinge in the middle so you wouldn't see a seam. I made a quick drawing (obviously nothing is to scale):

http://img301.imageshack.us/img301/9076/dscf0209nj6.jpg

TP

Im with TP on that one Ronnie...I was going to suggest something similar. I would add some kind of flexable stip linning behind the fabric where it bends down the opening, maybe even attach it to the backside of the fabric. Doing something like that might help with long term wear and tear. You could also add loops to the back of the fabric liner at the bend (kind of like you did with your column covers) then you could run a small dowell rod through them and attach the ends of the dowell rod into the frame, set back so it wouldnt show of course. It would then act like a hinge in itself for the fabric so it doesnt bow in or out and possible get cought on something when the door is opened or closed.

Robert

Thats a crude addition to the drawing....but it should give you a better idea of what I mean.

Robert

Ronnie, why not have the whole panel one peice, but hinged on the right side? Would that come too far out from the wall and hit anything? By doing that, you get a complete panel, no worries about the fabric staying in place or buckling. If needed, you could add a cable and a turnbuckle, like what you would do if you have a sagging screen door.

Ronnie,

I like the idea of having the fabric "over" the hinge with the door opening into the room -- a virtual hidden seam. You can inset a piano hinge to accomplish this task. When we went to look at the local Parade of Homes (1mil+ homes) a few months back, one of them had a hidden coat closet behind some built-in shelves. This thing looked meaty. They were supporting it all with a simple 8' piano hinge. I asked if this was normal practice to build them like this and they said it was the only way to do it.

ronnie, i think the outlet below the EQ rack may give you problems if you hinge the entire panel on the right. i would do a door for the rack only w/ the hinge on the left. use a spring-loaded magnetic closure, similar to what is used on most av-cabinet glass doors, to hold it closed securely.

-miked

Sandman was working with a similar dilema with his hidden door. You might want to PM him to see if he came to any resolution.

ronnie, i think the outlet below the EQ rack may give you problems if you hinge the entire panel on the right. i would do a door for the rack only w/ the hinge on the left. use a spring-loaded magnetic closure, similar to what is used on most av-cabinet glass doors, to hold it closed securely.

-miked
Ahh -- moving electrical outlets is a breeze. I've moved a ton in my room. Only (2) "mini" fires and (3) breaker trips so far :eek: :D

Thanks for all the responses so far guys. Let me see if I can help with a few of the items mentioned.

Tony, Your idea is pretty cool, but I am trying to figure out how I would attach it to the wall and cover it with fabric. I have normally covered the frames first, then attached them to the wall. Furring strips present a problem, because all my panels go edge to edge with no trim to hide the staples. It would be easy to finish out the fabric on the hinged side because I can get to the back of the frame. Its the other 3 sides (top, bottom, and far right) that I am worried about.


SVonHof, I wish I could do that, but I cannot hinge an entire 5' panel because there would be no room to open it and get to the equipment. The seating riser is in the way. I have about 33 inches of travel that I can accommodate before it would hit the riser. I would like to keep the hinged access panel around 2 - 2.5 feet wide.


I planned on leaving the outlet exactly where it is and letting it be hidden by the panel. It does not need to be exposed on the outside of the frame. I would probably never use it and if I did, I could always open the panel to access it. I might even move it to the other side of the wall.

Steve, the piano hinge would probably work well. I have also seen these doors you are talking about at a trade show. I was amazed that it held up also. Looked flimsy for the size and weight of the door, but they assured me it worked.


Thanks again guys, hopefully I can come up with something.

Ronnie

Just thinking outloud here Ronnie, maybe you could rig up something with velcro or some really strong magnets.

TP

Ronnie, going along with the piano hinge theme and since you can't do a full panel hinging door, I would then reccomend that you frame up a complete frame that has SirTony76 style recesses that would allow you to have two frames, with the hinge point dropped back from the fabric surface, so that when you open the frame, it is a complete frame, hinged on another complete frame next to it. Having the hinge set back from the fabric would allow it to be totally hidden (unless some dork shines a light directly on the fabric, allowing the brass or chrome piano hinge to shine through the fabric!). That would allow you to have all the sound treatment that you want on the front section and still have the access you need to your rack.

I've had my Rebel XT since early this year. Taken over 2300 photos...you will enjoy it. Your biggest issue will be deciding what lenses to buy...



Thanks Robert. I really appreciate the comments. There are a ton of great looking theaters out there. I have to thank you guys also. Everyone has contributed a lot to my build. Without everyone support and knowledge, I would be lost.

I promise. Once I get enough fabric up that I cant capture it all with a single shot, I will break out the AutoStitch program.

BTW, I have a new camera on its way to me. Its the Canon EOS Rebel XT (http://www.usa.canon.com/consumer/controller?act=ModelDetailAct&fcategoryid=139&modelid=11154) I have wanted a digital SLR for a while now so that I could get back into photography.

Ronnie, going along with the piano hinge theme and since you can't do a full panel hinging door, I would then reccomend that you frame up a complete frame that has SirTony76 style recesses that would allow you to have two frames, with the hinge point dropped back from the fabric surface, so that when you open the frame, it is a complete frame, hinged on another complete frame next to it. Having the hinge set back from the fabric would allow it to be totally hidden (unless some dork shines a light directly on the fabric, allowing the brass or chrome piano hinge to shine through the fabric!). That would allow you to have all the sound treatment that you want on the front section and still have the access you need to your rack.


Scott and SirTony. I like that idea a lot. It would appear as a single seamless panel, but would allow me to open the left side. I am still trying to figure out how to secure it to the wall so that it would be solid enough for the door. I would plan on putting the recessed hinge part of that design on top of studs (at least the right side of the hinge). I wonder if I could cover the entire thing, sit it in place, open the door, then squeeze some 3" screws through the left side of the right hand stationary frame and into the studs? Am I making any sense? I might have to try and draw something up to illustrate this.

Ronnie

I've had my Rebel XT since early this year. Taken over 2300 photos...you will enjoy it. Your biggest issue will be deciding what lenses to buy...


Isnt that the truth! So far, I love this thing. I have not had a lot of time to play with it yet though. The battery grip is also a must have if you dont already have one. It gives the camera a much better feel, not to mention the extended shooting due to the extra battery capacity.

I do have a quick question for you though. How do you turn off the flash in the creative modes when it wants to keep popping it up? I was trying to take some fully manual shots the other evening (nightscapes) and had the exposure set like I wanted, but the camera kept thinking for me and turning on the flash. Sometimes I would meter and focus, it would pop up and I would have to push it back down while maintaing focus. Surely this isnt the only way to do that.

Ronnie

Makes sense to me. I can't see why it wouldn't work.

TP

Ronnie maybe you could put a piece of wood vertically between the hinges so you could get 8-10 screws in there. Make it strong.

TP

Ronnie - hard to believe you're a beginner at woodworking - great job! I would be concerned about a panel that folds in the middle eventually showing a crease in the fabric from repeated use. You can get hinges, like those designed for kitchen cabinets, that recess into the frame. (You'll need a Forstner drill bit to recess the hinge) There are several types at the Rockler website (I think they also have a Dallas store if that's close) that might work if you can figure a way to fasten them to the wall-perhaps a false stud squeezed into the wall behind the left side of the right column. These are designed to allow the door to open without lateral movement, so the panel can fit into the recess between columns. I would probably use hardwood for the frame for added strength and include a brace from top right to bottom left (or vice versa) to prevent sagging. Cabinet door magnets and metal plates would serve to hold the panel closed.

Scott beat me to it.. that's exactly what I was thinking of as well. Two complete frames, a piano hinge between them. You can paint the hinge black to hide it more as well. I'd avoid multiple hinges if possible, due to the added complexity of proper depth so the "door" doesn't bind, etc. The piano hinge would be stronger as well. Do you want to put acoustic treatments in the door as well? (Around the actual equipment opening) That should be possible, but you'd have to add some kind of hardboard backer (that you would see with the door open) to keep it in there. You could recess it into the frame the thickness of the backer so it would close flush with the frame.

As far as attaching it to the wall, I'm curious first how you attached the other frames to the wall, since the fabric was completely stretched on it. I didn't notice any velcro, but is that how they are attached? IMO, velcro won't be strong enough at the hinge point (and from your comments it seems you agree), but you could mount the top, right, and bottom sides of the right (permanent) side of the "special" panel as normal. Then open the door side perpendicual to the wall, and gently pull the fabric away from the frame (easier as you get to the vertical middle). Then insert a bunch of screws through the left frame of the right (permanent) side of the panel. (This is exactly what you have already been thinking in your recent post, it seems - I'm tracking with you and agree) Make the door panel just wide enough to have that left frame of the right side end up directly over a stud.

Another thought is to put a number of magnets on the far left side both on the frame and on the wall, inset, to hold the door closed; the bottom trim piece would prevent any sagging.

A few other things...

In hindsight, would you take a more solid piece of wood (much less cutting) and install that prior to the stage steps, or was it not that big of a deal? Typically with standard stairs (in a house), you run that trim first, then install the stairs, so you don't have to cut around every stair. At the same time, I can see how (especially for only two of them) it's not that big of a deal, and you can change your mind on the trim, etc, if you do it later.

I still can't get over how awesome that fabric looks! I'm pretty much set on that, and my wife likes the look as well! (Isn't that what really matters.. :rolleyes: :))

Scott beat me to it.. that's exactly what I was thinking of as well. Two complete frames, a piano hinge between them. You can paint the hinge black to hide it more as well. I'd avoid multiple hinges if possible, due to the added complexity of proper depth so the "door" doesn't bind, etc. The piano hinge would be stronger as well. Do you want to put acoustic treatments in the door as well? (Around the actual equipment opening) That should be possible, but you'd have to add some kind of hardboard backer (that you would see with the door open) to keep it in there. You could recess it into the frame the thickness of the backer so it would close flush with the frame.

As far as attaching it to the wall, I'm curious first how you attached the other frames to the wall, since the fabric was completely stretched on it. I didn't notice any velcro, but is that how they are attached? IMO, velcro won't be strong enough at the hinge point (and from your comments it seems you agree), but you could mount the top, right, and bottom sides of the right (permanent) side of the "special" panel as normal. Then open the door side perpendicual to the wall, and gently pull the fabric away from the frame (easier as you get to the vertical middle). Then insert a bunch of screws through the left frame of the right (permanent) side of the panel. (This is exactly what you have already been thinking in your recent post, it seems - I'm tracking with you and agree) Make the door panel just wide enough to have that left frame of the right side end up directly over a stud.

Another thought is to put a number of magnets on the far left side both on the frame and on the wall, inset, to hold the door closed; the bottom trim piece would prevent any sagging.


Ok, I think I am with you guys on this. 2 complete seperate frames and use a piano hinge. I could do some kind of router cut on the meeting edges so the hinge would be inset and flush. So you guys dont think a seam would detract from the overall look?

I do want to put acoustic treatements and figured I would do just as you have suggested using some 1/8" backing board. I would cover the backer board with black grill cloth to dress it out.

My first full panel, i used velcro, but on the other two I shot a 2" brad in each corner, one in the middle of each side and one in the middle of the frame wherever it hit a stud. The velcro works for the normal frame, but it made it stick out about 1/4" from the wood trim, which I didnt like. With the 2" brad nails, it has to go through the 1" frame, then the sheetrock and into the stud. It only goes deep enough to hold the frame in place, so if I wanted, I could easily pry them off. Obviously this wouldnt work for my door panel situation. We seem to be on the same page as to the solution. As long as I could shoot a few brads to hold it, then be able to get at least 3-4 screws into the permanent frame, I think that would be enough to hold the lightweight door.


Now that you mentioned magnets, you got me thinking about another idea. What if I made 2 seperate frames, mounted the right one permanently, the used magnets (strong ones) to hold the left side (removable). Probably wouldnt have the cool factor that a door would have, but it would be easier. I plan on using remotes for everything and wont really need to get at the equipment directly, but I wanted it accessible from inside the theater. I could just remove the panel when needed. That would also allow me to make a narrower panel and not worry about studs.

For those of you that hid your equipment in a completely seperate room, do you wish you had access now from inside the room?


Ronnie

A few other things...

In hindsight, would you take a more solid piece of wood (much less cutting) and install that prior to the stage steps, or was it not that big of a deal? Typically with standard stairs (in a house), you run that trim first, then install the stairs, so you don't have to cut around every stair. At the same time, I can see how (especially for only two of them) it's not that big of a deal, and you can change your mind on the trim, etc, if you do it later.

I still can't get over how awesome that fabric looks! I'm pretty much set on that, and my wife likes the look as well! (Isn't that what really matters.. :rolleyes: :))


It probably would have been easier to do it before the stage was built, but in reality, it wasnt that hard after the fact. I really didnt want to have any woodwork or trim up before the carpet went in. I didnt want to worry about it getting damaged. There are a couple of guys that just put up all their woodwork and trim before carpeting and I hope they cover it very well, because carpet backing is like 100x more powerfull than 60 grit sandpaper.


Thanks for your comments on the fabric. The pics really cant do it any justice. Everyone that has seen it in person loves it. Its has a really unique character to it. If you have not seen a sample yet, I suggest you get one. If you really like it, I can send you a larger piece when I am done if I have any left.


Ronnie

Ok, I think I am with you guys on this. 2 complete seperate frames and use a piano hinge. I could do some kind of router cut on the meeting edges so the hinge would be inset and flush. So you guys dont think a seam would detract from the overall look?
I'm not talking about a seam (and I don't think Scott is either). I'm still proposing a complete panel (at least that it looks like one), and definitely would be going for that if I were you. As you said, to look like all the others. We're talking about routing (good idea you just mentioned for the method) the inside frames and joining via piano hinge, but the fabric goes across the top of the hinge, and flexes when you open the left side.
I do want to put acoustic treatements and figured I would do just as you have suggested using some 1/8" backing board. I would cover the backer board with black grill cloth to dress it out.Good idea on the grill cloth for when the door is open.
My first full panel, i used velcro, but on the other two I shot a 2" brad in each corner, one in the middle of each side and one in the middle of the frame wherever it hit a stud. The velcro works for the normal frame, but it made it stick out about 1/4" from the wood trim, which I didnt like. With the 2" brad nails, it has to go through the 1" frame, then the sheetrock and into the stud. It only goes deep enough to hold the frame in place, so if I wanted, I could easily pry them off. Obviously this wouldnt work for my door panel situation. We seem to be on the same page as to the solution. As long as I could shoot a few brads to hold it, then be able to get at least 3-4 screws into the permanent frame, I think that would be enough to hold the lightweight door.
Ah, I see now. So does the brad go all the way through the fabric and the fabric just ends up with a tiny hole in it? I suppose it would be possible to velcro and have the trim be 1/4" thicker. If you had the choice between velcro and brads, assuming it was flush with the trim, what would you choose? How much velcro do you think is necessary to keep it in attached to the wall? How much do the panels weigh? Why is the sky blue? If a tree falls on a mime in a forest, does he make a sound?.... :D

Also note that if you use the full fabric over the hinge method as I described a bit more above, that's how you can get access to screwing in the inner frames (the middle of the fabric becomes loose as you open the door).
Now that you mentioned magnets, you got me thinking about another idea. What if I made 2 seperate frames, mounted the right one permanently, the used magnets (strong ones) to hold the left side (removable). Probably wouldnt have the cool factor that a door would have, but it would be easier. I plan on using remotes for everything and wont really need to get at the equipment directly, but I wanted it accessible from inside the theater. I could just remove the panel when needed. That would also allow me to make a narrower panel and not worry about studs.
I think you'd be disappointed in compromising like that, when the rest of your theater is amazing. I realize you won't have to get to the equipment often, but it may be more than you think. Probably enough that a door would be worth it. I also don't think the single hinge would be all that difficult. (I also wouldn't want a seam, and the complete detachment method would require one.. though you could make the entire panel detachable)
For those of you that hid your equipment in a completely seperate room, do you wish you had access now from inside the room?
Art S. has said that he loves the fact that he can view the screen from his equipment, despite it being in a separate room in the back corner (I think his first one wasn't like that). It's how I would design it if I could build one from scratch.

Ronnie,

As always, GREAT WORK!!!! Could you provide a picture of the back of the frame showing how you folded the fabric on the corners? That was one of the more complex parts of the putting the fabric on the frames so they would not be noticeable.

Ronnie.... man it's looking good. Nice to see a few of us in the home stretch and nearing completion. We've all got very different rooms, but cool in so many ways. Congrats!

Thanks Tim. I think thats the idea I will go with. Two frames with a recessed piano hinge, but covered as a single frame. I guess its time to break out a few test pieces and mock this up to see how it works.


To answer your question about the brads: Yes, I just use an air nailer and it sinks the nail cleanly through the fabric. The panels would probably stay up by themselves with a friction fit because I measured everything for a tight fit. I only put a few brads in them for reassurance. The velcro would work fine also and I would have continued to use that, but I didn't like the non flush look and I had already finished out all the trim pieces. Everyone else probably wont notice the difference, but I did and it kept bothering me. You wouldn't need much velcro. I put about 9 pieces that were approx 1"x3" on my panels. The panels are very light. Ruben said he used velcro on all his and never looked back.

Note on the brads: They probably only go into the studs behind the drywall maybe 1/4". Its easy to remove if needed. I actually had to remove one of my soffit frames tonight and trim it down 1/2" on one end. I just used a screwdriver to work one end loose, then pulled gently until the nails came loose.


I think your right on compromising by not doing a door, I just needed a little push. After 9 months of working on this, I think im getting burnt out and just want it done. I need you guys to keep me straight. :p

Ronnie,

As always, GREAT WORK!!!! Could you provide a picture of the back of the frame showing how you folded the fabric on the corners? That was one of the more complex parts of the putting the fabric on the frames so they would not be noticeable.


Thanks David. I did the corners like you would do for a canvas. Here (http://www.trishtunney.com/gallery/1588906/1) is a pretty good explanation of it. The speaker fabric is pretty thin, so it made nice clean corners. I oriented the folded edge with the excess material to be on the least likely to be seen edge. Since all my frames are flush against some type of trim or column, you dont see any of this anyway.

The frame that matched up to the stair trim was a little tricky because of all the different angles. For those, I just cut the fabric almost to the front edge in those corners. I even stapled a few spots on the edge. Again, since its flush mounted, you dont see any of this.

I didnt take any pics of the corners for the 3 frames I have built so far. I will be sure and do that for the next one. :o

You and Steve need to swing by and take a look anyway. Its better in person you know :D

Ronnie

Ronnie.... man it's looking good. Nice to see a few of us in the home stretch and nearing completion. We've all got very different rooms, but cool in so many ways. Congrats!


Thank Jerrod. Same to ya.......

Since you have a ton of woodwork up, and you are waiting on carpet, I thought I might warn you to cover the hell out of that stuff so the installers dont destroy it. If not protected, It will eat your woodwork alive and ask for dessert. I did that to the limited amount I had around my riser and stage and it worked wonders.

Ronnie

Thanks for the info on the brads. I think I'll plan to use the velcro, as I like the removable idea (well, to make it a bit more easy to remove compared to brads, that is).
I think your right on compromising by not doing a door, I just needed a little push. After 9 months of working on this, I think im getting burnt out and just want it done. I need you guys to keep me straight. :p
I completely understand. Our last project was gutting two bathrooms, replacing two kitchens (decided to rent out our lower level), and ripped up all of the subflooring upstairs and replaced everything, including several structural elements that were missing from the original construction that I found. :eek:

Anyway, my point is that even a year later I hadn't installed doors or trim.. My wife wasn't too happy, so I eventually put in doors, then about a year later, the trim. :rolleyes: Unfortunately, now I have to endure her doubt that I'll completely finish the next project(s) (which also will be huge... HVAC, basement finish, HT, whole house audio, and new garage most likely).

I finished up the rest of the soffit frames and they are all in place now. I also finished up the front left wall panel.

Left side front wall.

http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/fabric/IMG_0087.jpg



David/YldSyd wanted to see how I did my corners, so I took some pics of that process.

First, I stapled the fabric up to the corners.

http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/fabric/IMG_0073.jpg



Then I cut the excess material off one side by cutting a diagonal.

http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/fabric/IMG_0074.jpg



I folded the fabric in and held it with my finger.

http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/fabric/IMG_0075.jpg


Then I folded the rest of the fabric over the top and removed my finger.

http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/fabric/IMG_0076.jpg



I put a few staples in it.

http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/fabric/IMG_0077.jpg


Then trimmed off the excess.

http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/fabric/IMG_0078.jpg


Perfect corners.

Ronnie

Can't wait to see the finished pics of the theater. Yours is a great example of quality work and attention to detail.

Thanks Ronnie, looks very neat. I knew we were trying to figure out the best way to trim the fabric, though to be honest, I can't remember how we did it after all this time lolol. I appreciate the detail.

The front panesl have inside corners and these were done a little differently. Here are a few shots of those.


Im guessing this inside corner is about 120 degrees. I had to cut a slit in the fabric to about 1/4" from the front edge. If you look closely, you will see a few staples holding it tight on the edge. This edge sits flush with the trim, so no worries about seeing the cut.


http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/fabric/IMG_0081.jpg http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/fabric/IMG_0082.jpg


The other inside corner didnt have much angle to it, so I didnt need to cut the fabric into it as much. I just barely cut it on the back edge in order to get it to sit flush. You have to look hard to see the cut.

http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/fabric/IMG_0083.jpg



Here is what it looks like from the front on edge.

http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/fabric/IMG_0084.jpg

For you equipment "cover"...How about using some of the speaker grill fasteners that are plastic, with a ball and socket setup. Place a half dozen or so around the parimeter...

For the Rebel XT, not sure you can, frankly I don't use lanscape/portrait, etc. setting. I mostly use Av or Tv or manual. Not sure you can turn these off other than using the flash selection from the dial (looks like the lighning bolt). Using Av, Tv, or M the flash should not auto popup since your controling the exposure.

Sorry for the delayed response. I shoud check the forum more often...

ht


Isnt that the truth! So far, I love this thing. I have not had a lot of time to play with it yet though. The battery grip is also a must have if you dont already have one. It gives the camera a much better feel, not to mention the extended shooting due to the extra battery capacity.

I do have a quick question for you though. How do you turn off the flash in the creative modes when it wants to keep popping it up? I was trying to take some fully manual shots the other evening (nightscapes) and had the exposure set like I wanted, but the camera kept thinking for me and turning on the flash. Sometimes I would meter and focus, it would pop up and I would have to push it back down while maintaing focus. Surely this isnt the only way to do that.

Ronnie

Thanks BearHawk260. I think I have the EOS figured out now. This thing is awsome.

For the equipment door panel, I purchased a piano hinge and a few other things this weekend. Im going to try and make it look like a single panel, but the left side will pivot open on the piano hinge. I think I have it figured out now.

I appreciate all the ideas from everyone.

Ronnie

FYI, I wont be able to get anything accomplished today or this week on the HT. I have to fly out to Colorado Springs, Co today. I will be there for a week working with HP (Hewlett Packard) in their storage labs for some things we are testing at the office.

I plan on getting the hinged frame and the last side wall frame done next weekend when I return. That will leave only the back wall to be done. I think I might wait a little while on the back wall until I purchase my speakers. I would like to integrate them into the design and have the fabric panels mold seamlessly around them. But then again, maybe I will just leave some additional room in case I swap to a different size speaker in the future.

I also ordered my GRX-3106 lighting controller today. Maybe I can start installing that next weekend also.


If I dont have a chance to check in on the forums, you guys have a good week.

Ronnie

Colorado Springs is a fantastic place to visit. I've visited the HP (formerly Compaq, before that Digital) facilities many times to work with their analysts on my customer's software systems housed there.

Colorado Springs is a fantastic place to visit. I've visited the HP (formerly Compaq, before that Digital) facilities many times to work with their analysts on my customer's software systems housed there.


I agree. I have been there several times myself. I wished it was November though, that way I could squeeze in a weekend of skiing on each side. :D


Ronnie

Ronnie,

Just catching up with your thread. Looking fantastic. Keep it up!

I am also hiding my rack with fabric frames. I will post how I do it, but I'm keeping it simple. I am installing a 20 inch door in a 2x4 framed wall in front of the rack and will attach the panels directly to the door. The door has no door knob. It should hold in place with the weather stripping and some velcro. Also the frames will go past the door on the non-hinged side and have the wall as a stop. I'll post pics as soon as I have them.


Gary

Great work as usual Ronnie...looks fantastic!

Robert

Great work as usual Ronnie...looks fantastic!

Robert

Looking incredible Ronnie!

Your not going to believe this, my new Rebel XT died on me. I don't know what happened but one morning I woke up and went to take some pictures with a flash then the camera started popping really loud inside and gave me an Error 99 and smelt like minced garlic. When not using the flash it worked fine, but the flash made the camera act up. So I sent it into Canon for repair and I haven't heard anything back for 2 weeks. I hope they give me a new one because I can't stand using faulty repaired stuff.

Ruben

I purchased the carpet at a local carpet store, but you can get it almost anywhere. I had 4 local places give me estimates and all of them carried it. Everyone orders their carpets from Georgia anyway.

Brand = Mohawk/Alladin
Style = Op-art
Color = Stained Glass


Ronnie

I really liked the look and wanted to get the one with the red but a bit pricey for me right now.

Looking at carpet sucks especially when you want black in it or dark colors.

Ronnie,
Looks awesome! Couple of questions (that are probably answered already).
How are you attaching your panels to the walls/soffits? Why do you use the foil at the bottom part of the panel (is it for acoustical reasons or just to decrease the linacoustic consumption of the world)? Thanks

Ronnie,
Looks awesome! Couple of questions (that are probably answered already).
How are you attaching your panels to the walls/soffits? Why do you use the foil at the bottom part of the panel (is it for acoustical reasons or just to decrease the linacoustic consumption of the world)? Thanks


Thanks Mbgonzomd.

On the first wall panel, I used industrial strength velcro. It works well, but it extended my panels about 1/8 inch further from the wall. Since I wanted the panels and trim to be exactly flush, I didnt like this (my trim was already finished). So for the rest of the panels I just tacked them in place with a few 2" brad nails through the frame, drywall, and into the studs. Since I measured all my frames for a tight fit, they pretty much stayed in place with friction fitting anyway. The frames are 1", sheetrock is 5/8", so the brads only go into the studs about 1/2" You can easily work them out if you needed to.

The sofit panels are done the same way.


The 18" of foil scrim you see is bonded to the 4' piece of linacoustic using spray adhesive. Its only on the bottom 18" of the wall. The linacoustic will still suck up the broadband bass (even with the foil on top) frequencies, but the foil will provide some reflection for the higher frequencies. BPape analyzed my room acoustics and this was the suggested plan for my rooms overal response characteristics. If your serious about the sound of your room, I would suggest talking with Brian.


Ronnie

Hope your trip was a productive and beneficial one... :)

Hope your trip was a productive and beneficial one... :)


Thanks Keith, It was great as usual. Those guys are extremely sharp. We got the added benefit of touring the SNIA labs while we were out there also. Cool stuff.

Im ready to get back to work on the HT and the rest of those frames, but I just cant bring myself to start working in the 120 degree garage cutting wood and gluing frames together. :( Texas weather sucks.

Ronnie

You know Ronnie...if you are free in about 2 months Rockwall isn't too far from San Antonio...and we sure could use some help...We'll pay you in pizza and beer ;)

Your theater looks awesome and has given my husband and I several ideas on how we want to do our theater...Where did you get that fabric for your panels? I have samples of GOM fabric...but none that have designs on it like yours does.

I'm not Ronnie, but I believe it is the "Network" style. You can browse for it at www.guilfordofmaine.com.

You know Ronnie...if you are free in about 2 months Rockwall isn't too far from San Antonio...and we sure could use some help...We'll pay you in pizza and beer ;)

Your theater looks awesome and has given my husband and I several ideas on how we want to do our theater...Where did you get that fabric for your panels? I have samples of GOM fabric...but none that have designs on it like yours does.


Make it pizza, beer and accomodations and you have a deal. ;)

Thanks for the comments. Eddie is correct. Its the Network style. The color is sapphire. You can browse all the fabrics and get samples from them. Use THIS (http://samplecenter.guilfordofmaine.com/) link to get you to the sample center. Then do a search from the left side menu. You can pick your styles easily.

I purchased my GOM through FabricMate. Great people.

Ronnie

Ronnie,

Which can lights did you end up going with....I need to make a decision on this and have no idea about this kind of stuff. I need to build the MDF boxs for them since I just got my RSIC clips for the ceiling from Bpape and would liek to try to get to drywalling before I head back to work in a few weeks.

Thanks
Robert

Ronnie,

Which can lights did you end up going with....I need to make a decision on this and have no idea about this kind of stuff. I need to build the MDF boxs for them since I just got my RSIC clips for the ceiling from Bpape and would liek to try to get to drywalling before I head back to work in a few weeks.

Thanks
Robert

Ronnie,

Which can lights did you end up going with....I need to make a decision on this and have no idea about this kind of stuff. I need to build the MDF boxs for them since I just got my RSIC clips for the ceiling from Bpape and would liek to try to get to drywalling before I head back to work in a few weeks.

Thanks
Robert


Robert, sorry for the delay in responding. I havent been ignoring you guys, I promise. Im getting hammered at the office and its killing my HT time. :(


I have not purchased the can lights yet. I assume you are talking about the can lights im putting into the light tray. I plan on purchasing some small 3" cans for these. I found some at Rockler and a few online places that were 4" or less tall. This will keep them from showing above the tray. Back around post 47 or so, there are a few posts with links to various sources. I will be sure and post up what I purchase.

This is what I am after.

http://images.rockler.com/rockler/images/90193-03-80.jpg


Ronnie

No problem Ronnie I undserstand. Thanks for the reminder and tell that boss of yours youve got more important things to do than work ;)

Robert

Ronnie,

Your HT is inspiring me to start my own. I've been working in sketchup. I was wondering if you have any models that I could use (ok steal :) )? I see on your home page you've got sketup models of the chairs and riser. It would definately help jump start me.

Thanks

Ed

Shouldn't you be finishing that theater room? I'm ready to start watching some movies. :D

Man I've been member of this forum since 2002 and I'm still a new member, lol. I better start posting more.

Ronnie,

Your HT is inspiring me to start my own. I've been working in sketchup. I was wondering if you have any models that I could use (ok steal :) )? I see on your home page you've got sketup models of the chairs and riser. It would definately help jump start me.

Thanks

Ed


Ed, I created the riser and chair models to the dimensions of my furniture. Its probably easier to do that than to modify them to fit your design. Sketchup includes quite a few basic models also. I would highly suggest taking the online tutorials.

There is a thread that talks about sketchup models here (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=671727&highlight=sketchup)

If you still want my riser and chair models, pm me your email address and I will export and send them to you.

Ronnie

Small update. I was finally able to finish up my wall panel for the hidden equipment rack. If you guys remember, I wanted the wall to look like a single panel, but have one side of it hinged like a door to access the equipment. This actually turned out easier than I thought it would. Thanks everyone for the tips to make this happen.

Here is how I did it.


I cleaned up the opening and painted it black in preperation for the black material that I would glue to the drywall. I wasn't to concerned about it cosmetically at this point because I planned on covering it up with the material. Here is a pic of the opening, and another of the black material I used. Im not sure what it is. I picked up 3.5 yards of it at JoAnns on the clearance rack. Cost me $8 after coupon. It looks almost like my GOM FR701 sample and its a lot blacker than the pic makes it out to be. (overlook the mess in the equipment room you see through the hole and the white outlet).

http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/rack-door/IMG_0250.jpg http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/rack-door/IMG_0260.jpg



I coated the wall down with 3M spray adhesive and applied the fabric. I used the j-roller that i purchased for the veenering to help smooth out the fabric while I applied it from top to bottom. Next i cut the opening so I could fold and glue the fabric around to the other side of the wall. I ended up glueing some smaller strips on the inside to cover everything. Once the equipment is in, you will never notice it. This stuff gave the wall a really nice upholstered look.

http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/rack-door/IMG_0261.jpg http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/rack-door/IMG_0268.jpg http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/rack-door/IMG_0272.jpg



For the door and fabric frame, I made 2 seperate frames and joined them with a 6' piano hinge. The door side of the frame was painted black. I also beveled a 45 degree on the edge that attaches to the hinge. This will allow the door to open about 125 degrees.

http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/rack-door/IMG_0276.jpg http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/rack-door/IMG_0288.jpg


Here are a few pics of the frame in opened and closed position for testing. Also a pic of the frame freestanding on the carpet. Just threw that one in there :-)

http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/rack-door/IMG_0278.jpg http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/rack-door/IMG_0279.jpg http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/rack-door/IMG_0287.jpg


The plan was to attach this (the stationary side) to the wall using about 6 screws down the left side and 2" brads around the rest of the frame. The left side of the stationary frame lines up with a 2x4 behind the sheetrock, so the screws would give the door frame the most support. The plan was to cover the frame with fabric, put it in place, open the door and let the material loosen, then run the screws into the wall. Good plan eh? At least it was. I buttoned up the back side of the frame completely and had the whole thing completed. I put it up against the wall, opened the door and thought "hmmmmmm, thats not good" Doh! You will see what I mean by this later.


Ronnie

As usual Ronnie, very nicely done!

Part II


I put up the linacoustic and scrim on the wall. I also placed linacoustic and scrim inside the door frame so it matches the rest of the walls acoustically.

http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/rack-door/IMG_0294.jpg


Here is a shot of the framing covered as a sinle piece. I cut a small v-notch into the fabric at each end of the hinges to allow the door to fold open. This is done from the back side and slightly onto the top of the frame. Just enough to let it open, but not show a cut from the front.

http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/rack-door/IMG_0292.jpg


I wanted to cover the backside of the door part with the same black material I used on the wall. I also wanted to put the linacoustic in the bottom 4 feet of the door. I decide to use 3/16" foam board as a backer for the door framing. This would give me a solid back, something to glue the linacoustic to, and also help keep noise from the equipment room out of the theater. I had to use a combo of black and white foam board because they didnt have enough sheets of black. I spray painted the white ones black. Its being covered by black material anyway.

http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/rack-door/IMG_0259.jpg


I wanted the backside of the door to be flush, so I used a 1/4"rabbeting bit to route an inset all the way around the inside of the framing. The foam board will recess into this and be flush with the framing. Sort of like the back of a picture frame.

http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/rack-door/IMG_0255.jpg http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/rack-door/IMG_0253.jpg


Here you can see where I am placing the linacoustic into the frame and putting the foam board backing into place.

http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/rack-door/IMG_0295.jpg http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/rack-door/IMG_0302.jpg



If you look closely at the right hand side of the picture above you will notice that there is a solid row of staples down the outside edge. Thats the edge of the door opening. I wanted to cover the back with the same material and make it look seemless. I put a row of staples (as straight as I could get) down the backside of the material. Once I had this edge made with the staples, I folded the material over, pulled it tight to the other side and stapled it down. This gave me a nice clean edge that you see when opening the door. The staples at the top, bottom and hinge side will be painted black so you wont see them.


Here is a shot of it finished.
http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/rack-door/IMG_0304.jpg




You guys ready to see what this thing looks like installed?


Ronnie

Part III



Here is a picture of the hinged equipment frame panel installed. I think thats the right one :confused: I cant tell, it looks just like the others.


http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/rack-door/IMG_0308.jpg







Psyche!!!!

This one opens.......

http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/rack-door/IMG_0309.jpg http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/rack-door/IMG_0310.jpg


http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/rack-door/IMG_0313.jpg http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/rack-door/IMG_0318.jpg




This thing works very well and I am pleased with the outcome. The fabric gets loose when its fully opened, but seems to go back nice and tight in the shut position. Im curious to see how it holds up over time. I still need to touch up some small things, replace the outlet with a black one, and add some magnetic door openers. I also have to finish out the backside and add the shelving.

Ronnie

Nice job Ronnie. Glad to see you're back at it.

Bryan

Very cool OO7!

Very cool wall panel/door you got there! I like the way it all came together!

That's one of the great things about forums like this. Present a problem, get ideas, pick the best idea, work out all the details and post pics for everyone to go "WOW"!

Fantastic job as usual Ronnie...very nice!!

Robert

Ronnie,
If you just paid a bit more attention to detail, your work would show it ;)
Looks fantastic.
You're rivaling the Sandman.

Nice job Ronnie. Glad to see you're back at it.

Bryan


Thanks Bryan. I sure miss working on it. Just not much time lately.


BTW, Im picking up my 5.5 cotton for the screenwall this weekend. I bet you have been wondering if I forgot all about your suggestions. No way man, im doing this thing right.

Sure wish I could do an IB like Steves. :D


Ronnie

Very cool OO7!

Thanks Frank.

Very cool wall panel/door you got there! I like the way it all came together!

That's one of the great things about forums like this. Present a problem, get ideas, pick the best idea, work out all the details and post pics for everyone to go "WOW"!


Thanks Scott. I think I actually forgot to tell you guys what happened with the screws that I was going to attach it to the wall with. As I mentioned, I forgot all about needing to do that and completely covered the whole frame front and back when I realized what I had done. There was no way I was going to undo all that, so the only thing I could think of was to use liquid nails. I think its going to hold fine, but not what I wanted. I also put my brad nailer on max pressure and sent a bunch of 2" brads through the fabric and into the framing and wall.


I sat there (shaking my head) for 2 hours trying to figure out how I was going to attach that thing and make it stable before I decided to liquid nail it.


Ronnie

Fantastic job as usual Ronnie...very nice!!

Robert

Thanks Robert.

Ronnie,
If you just paid a bit more attention to detail, your work would show it ;)
Looks fantastic.
You're rivaling the Sandman.


Lol, I dont think anyone can rival SandManX. He is a machine with a mission. He just keeps finding cool things to do even months after you think he is done. I sometimes wonder if he even watches movies in that thing, or just sits around dreaming up cool stuff. :D


Ronnie

Nice colors. Similar to what I'm trying for.

I think I actually forgot to tell you guys what happened with the screws that I was going to attach it to the wall with. As I mentioned, I forgot all about needing to do that and completely covered the whole frame front and back when I realized what I had done. There was no way I was going to undo all that, so the only thing I could think of was to use liquid nails. I think its going to hold fine, but not what I wanted. I also put my brad nailer on max pressure and sent a bunch of 2" brads through the fabric and into the framing and wall.

I sat there (shaking my head) for 2 hours trying to figure out how I was going to attach that thing and make it stable before I decided to liquid nail it.
The renovation contractors didn't use anything but 2-inch brads to install the door jambs throughout our house. I discovered this when I removed the door casings in my room. I just sat there shaking my head, wondering how the heck those thin wire nails were holding the door jamb so firmly. There's clusters of three or four brads spaced several feet apart, and between the brads, the caulk, and the paint, nothing's moving. I'd guess your LiquidNails and brads into the studs will hold up pretty darned well over time.

And your panel/door over the equipment rack looks great (why am I not surprised? ;) )

Awesome Ronnie, great job! Is it a friction fit closed door or are you using magnets? What's your handle to open it?

Awesome Ronnie, great job! Is it a friction fit closed door or are you using magnets? What's your handle to open it?


Tim, those are some of the items I still have left to finish up. I plan on using magnets. Most likely I will put 3 of them on it. Top, middle, and bottom.

For the handle, I want to find something small and unnoticable. I just need to make a trip to Home Depot or Lowes and look around.

I will update everyone with the tecnique used once I finish.

Ronnie

Ronnie, great work and welcome back. You out to think about the magnetic thingies that are found to hold glass doors shut. You push the door against the catch to close it , but when you push it a second time it's spring loaded and pushes the door open enough to open it. I have one on the front of an old Mits 35" TV for VCR/DVD player storage, I can take a picture of it for you.

Bud

Ronnie, great work and welcome back. You out to think about the magnetic thingies that are found to hold glass doors shut. You push the door against the catch to close it , but when you push it a second time it's spring loaded and pushes the door open enough to open it. I have one on the front of an old Mits 35" TV for VCR/DVD player storage, I can take a picture of it for you.

Bud


Bud, thats a good thought but it wont work in my application. The door sits flush against the wall (in order to look like a single frame). That type of latch would require the door to either stand out a little from the wall, or recess into the wall when you push it in order to activate the release.

Does that make sense?

Ronnie

Yup, sure does. Sounds like you need something spring loaded to help push the door out. Anyway you can recess it under the covers?

Bud

Yup, sure does. Sounds like you need something spring loaded to help push the door out. Anyway you can recess it under the covers?

Bud


At this point, im thinking a small handle will be all I need. The magnets will hold it shut and I can pull the handle to open it. I would actually prefer not to have a handle though, so I will need to look around and see what I can find.

Any ideas you guys have would be appreciated.

Ronnie

Something like this (http://www.nokey.com/elcabloc.html) would be pretty cool. Maybe I can find a cheap alternative similar to this. An electronic door latch.

Ronnie

Ronnie, you got me thinking with the magnets. How about using the three magnets to hold the door closed and also using magnets to open the door. The three to hold it closed would be pretty weak, but the one sunk in the back of the frame could be powerful enough to where if you made a little wood handle with another magnet (to pull on that one) that would overcome the small ones.... you could have a door handle that is only there when you need it. In order to remove your hidden handle, you could simply hold the frame in place with one hand and pull the wooden handle (holding the other powerful magnet) away from the panel...

Did that make sense? It makes sense to me, but trying to relay what is in my head is not always the easiest without making pictures!

Simply put:
Three small magnets with metal catches to hold it closed and two powerful magnets to make a removable door handle (one in the back of the frame and the other in some sort of handle that you put somewhere else.

Looking great Ronnie!! very nice on that hidden door.

Gary

Some glass cabinet doors on video cabinets use a spring loaded magnet - you push the door in and the magnetic latch uncatches and springs forward a little, allowing you to get a finger hold behind the glass door. You just pull it to free it from the magnets. To close it you push the door shut onto the magnets, and then continue pushing it until the magnetic catches latch into their fittings, and the door is then flush again.

Not sure if that explains it very well, but they're a common latch and very cheap. You'll probably only need 2 or 3 and it will cost around $10 or less I would think. That way you don't need an external handle.

I can take some pics of the ones on my cabinet if that helps

Gary

Ronnie, I think Gary and I are talked about the same concept. Here are (dusty) shots of the glass cabinet latch. This one is on theat 35" TV I was talking about.

This is the lathch position while open:
http://images19.fotki.com/v292/photos/6/649633/3402899/100_1691-vi.jpg?1158409432

And what it would look like closed (door not shown):
http://images18.fotki.com/v86/photos/6/649633/3402899/100_1692-vi.jpg?1158409437

With the door closed:
http://images18.fotki.com/v16/photos/6/649633/3402899/100_1693-vi.jpg?1158409441

Would expect you'd need one or maybe two to keep the door closed.

Bud

Hi Bud,

Yes, they look very similar in operation to the ones I was referring to - re-reading your earlier post I don't know why I missed it.

Gary

Home Depot sells a similar style of those magnetic latches.

Thanks guys. I completely understand the style of spring loaded latch you are referring to. The only problem is that style of latch assumes you can push the door into an opening in order to activate the latch. My door is flush against the wall. You could think of it being the same as a kitchen cabinet door where the door is bigger than the opening and it sits flush against the cabinet framing.

If I were to use one of these, I would have to have the edge of the door opening sit about 1/4"-1/2" inch away from the wall in order to be able to push it and have it activate the spring loaded opener. I cant do that because I want the entire frame (door side and stationary side) to look as if its a single frame. I also want it flush with the top and bottom oak trim peices.

its a great idea, it just wont work in my case.


I picked up 6 round magnets that are 1/2" round and a single magnetic catch. I plan on placing 3 of the magnets into the door frame and the other 3 into the sheetrock. All this recessed of course. Top, Middle, Bottom. I will also probably put the magnetic latch somewhere around the middle. this should be enough to hold it shut. For the handle, I am thinking about finding something very small and thin made out of oak. I will stain it to match the columns. This door opening butts up to one of the columns. I think I could put this handle right on the edge againt the columns and you would never notice it.

Does all that make sense? Maybe I need to take some pictures or provide a drawing as to how the door and wall are flush against each other with some overlap of the door.

I had planned on working on all this today, but I have to help my sister-in-law move. Hopefully I can get to it this evening.

Well, it could work, but you'd have to take the fabric off... Let me explain.

What you could do is shave off 1/4"-1/2" (whatever the "push depth" is), at an angle, so instead of 1" thick (I can't remember exactly.. guessing), the left side of the horizontal braces would be 3/4" thick, gradually getting thicker to the original 1" at the far right side. The left vertical brace (where a handle might go) would be 3/4" thick the entire length.

Then, the spring-loaded latch would be set so in its permanent position, it sticks out 1/4" and offsets the thinner brace so the fabric is flat (and flush with the trim). But yet you can press in on the left side and have it pop out.

By the way, Bud, this is exactly what I was thinking as well when I read of Ronnie's dilemma. I think my idea above is possible, but would unfortunately be a bit more work.

Well, it could work, but you'd have to take the fabric off... Let me explain.

What you could do is shave off 1/4"-1/2" (whatever the "push depth" is), at an angle, so instead of 1" thick (I can't remember exactly.. guessing), the left side of the horizontal braces would be 3/4" thick, gradually getting thicker to the original 1" at the far right side. The left vertical brace (where a handle might go) would be 3/4" thick the entire length.

Then, the spring-loaded latch would be set so in its permanent position, it sticks out 1/4" and offsets the thinner brace so the fabric is flat (and flush with the trim). But yet you can press in on the left side and have it pop out.

By the way, Bud, this is exactly what I was thinking as well when I read of Ronnie's dilemma. I think my idea above is possible, but would unfortunately be a bit more work.


I agree, but taking everything apart in order to use that specific latch is not something I want to do. It took a lot of work to finish that thing out and make it look like it did. Undoing it would probably not yield the results I have now. Going forward, anyone planning on doing something like this will probably have better foresite than I did and can better plan for that type of latch.

Unfortunately, I will have to come up with something different. I think I already have it figured out. I posted earlier about my plans, but have not had a chance to work on it today. It should work out fine.


Ronnie

I spent the day today traveling to Austin, TX to pick up my 3 bales of 5.5" cotton. It was the only place around here that I could find that carries this stuff. They wouldnt ship it to me because I only needed 3 bags. So $40 in fuel later, im back home with it. I picked it up at a company called Eco-Wise.

For anyone local that is interested, here is their info:
Eco-Wise
110 West Elizabeth
Austin, Tx 78704
512.326.4474

This will go on the front stage walls behind and to the sides of the screen. In the beginning I put up 1" linacoustic. After working with BPape, It was decided that I needed more broadband absorption, so we will be adding the 5.5" cotton to the top of the linacoustic for 6.5" of total material.

Here is an early picture of the linacoustic applied for the screen wall. Everywhere you see the black linacoustic will receive an additional layer of the 5.5" cotton.
http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/linacoustic.jpg


The product I picked up was called InsulCot and its the exact same thing as UltraTouch. I went specifically for the UltraTouch, but they were out of the 24" width product. The Absorption Coefficients are identical for both products. Probably actually made buy the same people. Here (http://www.insulcot.com/) is their website.

Ronnie

Here is a pic of the Insulcot. Each roll has the following specs:

5.5" thick
24" width
40' lenght
covers 80 sq. ft. per package.

Absorption Coefficients @ octave band frequencies (hz)
.97 @ 125
1.37 @ 250
1.23 @ 500
1.05 @ 1000
1.00 @ 2000
1.01 @ 4000
1.15 @ NRC



http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/insulcot/IMG_0402_web.jpg



Ronnie

I completely understand and I wouldn't go back either - it looks fabulous! I hadn't heard of cotton that thick before.. Looks like it would work very well.

Gee Ronnie,

You should have told Steve and I about your pick-up in Austin. Can anyone say "ROAD TRIP"!!!!!!!!!!!

Gee Ronnie,

You should have told Steve and I about your pick-up in Austin. Can anyone say "ROAD TRIP"!!!!!!!!!!!


Ya, it would have been fun. ACL was last weekend also. We could have made a day out of it. Music, beer, and 5.5" cotton. :D

Ronnie

I sat there (shaking my head) for 2 hours trying to figure out how I was going to attach that thing and make it stable before I decided to liquid nail it.
Damn -- I cannot tell you how many times that has happened to me. Most of the time I can think through it (as you did) without a rebuild. However, it does require a re-do sometimes and I'm always happy I did when I finally get it right.


I spent the day today traveling to Austin, TX to pick up my 3 bales of 5.5" cotton. It was the only place around here that I could find that carries this stuff. They wouldnt ship it to me because I only needed 3 bags. So $40 in fuel later, im back home with it.
AUSTIN :eek: :eek: :eek: You would think a place as big as Dallas would have that stuff somewhere. I'm glad I ended up getting mine earlier from a bpape customer that had some extra. I think the wife would have fell down laughing if I told her I needed to drive to Austin to pick up insulation for the HT.

I can hear it now... "You want to do what? Is Bryan making you do that? Are you sure you need that stuff? Aren't you getting a bit anal about this room? I don't know of anyone else that is doing all this stuff with their room."

NOTE: my wife would never say this but I'm sure she might think it :D Hmm, maybe I should remove this post ;)

Sure wish I could do an IB like Steves.
I'm going to start out with the (2) 15" woofers and see how it sounds. If I'm happy, I'll have (2) that I can sell you. But knowing me, I'l just wonder what the full force of (4) would sound like and have to put them in the room anyway :)

I hung the 5.5" thick cotton around the screenwall today. I used the same method Bud/ChinaDog used. Purchased some insulation support hangers and bent them into t-rods. Then just pushed them through the cotton, insulshield, and sheetrock at a downward angle. Works like a champ.



http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/insulcot/IMG_0422.jpg

The original product is the long wire at the bottom. You can see the modification in the center.

http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/insulcot/IMG_0424.jpg


Here are a few shots of the finished walls. The center channel will go above the screen, so I left that area unfinished for now. I will fill it in around the center channel speaker once its mounted. I left the bottom a little high in the center because I have some outlets and av jacks that I didnt want covered. I plan on making some removable speaker grilles to cover these two areas.

http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/insulcot/IMG_0434.jpg

http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/insulcot/IMG_0435.jpg


Ronnie

I also covered the screenwall with Commando Cloth. I left the center open since the screen will cover this anyway. As mentioned in the post above. The top and bottom center will have removable speaker grills. I will also be covering the 5.5" blue cotton that you see on the left and right with some black muslin. Eventually, there will be curtains that cover that area between the left and right speaker columns and the screen wall.


http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/insulcot/IMG_0443.jpg


This is a crude picture, but I wanted to get an idea what a 120" 2:35 screen would look like. I didnt have a lot of time to spend making a frame, so used a 110" long 1x2 across the top and let it hang. Its a little high because I was using clamps to hold it in place and thats the only spot I could clamp to. But you get the idea. I might bump this down to a 112" and see what it looks like. I also want to test a few 16:9 formats. The material is just your standard blackout cloth that I purchased at JoAnns Fabrics. I cheated and blacked out the blue cotton on the left and right with photoshop. It looked really strange being blue. :D


http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/insulcot/IMG_0445.jpg


Ronnie

Ronnie,

What did you use to cut the cotton? Skill saw, table saw or electric knife?

I just used a razor knife. Had to make a pass or two, but worked fine.

Bud

I just used a razor knife like Bud. You need several new ones. Takes a few cuts.

Ronnie

Ronnie,

I just read your thread for the 10th time (I can't get enough :-)

I can't find where you put your surround speakers? I know at least two are in columns, but where are the rear surrounds?

Also, I can't find a shot of your back wall. Is that done yet?

Great HT. It's inspiring me.

Thanks,
Ed

Ronnie,

I just read your thread for the 10th time (I can't get enough :-)

I can't find where you put your surround speakers? I know at least two are in columns, but where are the rear surrounds?

Also, I can't find a shot of your back wall. Is that done yet?

Great HT. It's inspiring me.

Thanks,
Ed

Thanks EJ. The side surrounds will go into the columns on the side walls closest to the back. The rear surrounds will be mounted directly to the wall (no columns).

I have not started on the back wall yet. Im currently in Hong Kong on business for the next 2 weeks, so I will start on the back wall when I return.

Ronnie

I just used a razor knife like Bud. You need several new ones. Takes a few cuts.

Ronnie
That's good to know. I thought Ruben said it was near impossible to cut that stuff with a knife?

Did you pickup the insulation hangers at HD?

Steve, I got mine at Lowes, but they probably have them at HD as well. I think the pack of 100 was about 8.00.

Bud

I picked mine up at Lowes also. Its on the same row as the insulation.

Ronnie

Hmmmm, two months and no updates, I've been expecting a "I'm Finished" post by now...

Out of all the beautiful HT's I've been viewing around here, yours seems to fit my taste the most. I really like your columns, they are functional, easy to build, and interesting to look at, without being too ornate. I in the basement prep. stage at this point. Can't wait 'til I can start getting some walls up.

Can't wait to see the finished pictures!

Good Luck
Chip

EDIT: OOOpppsss!, I missed the last few pages of posts before I posted this. Away in HK, hard to do the DIY HT stuff 1/2 a world away!

Hmmmm, two months and no updates, I've been expecting a "I'm Finished" post by now...

Out of all the beautiful HT's I've been viewing around here, yours seems to fit my taste the most. I really like your columns, they are functional, easy to build, and interesting to look at, without being too ornate. I in the basement prep. stage at this point. Can't wait 'til I can start getting some walls up.

Can't wait to see the finished pictures!

Good Luck
Chip

EDIT: OOOpppsss!, I missed the last few pages of posts before I posted this. Away in HK, hard to do the DIY HT stuff 1/2 a world away!


Thanks ChipWV. Sorry for delaying everyone. I am extremely busy at work right now with a huge project. I have been in 3 continents lately and we are still going. Looks like I will be pretty busy for the next couple of months and there are also the holidays coming.

So, as bad as I hate to say this, the HT will be on hold for a little while. Man, I was getting so close :( I will still be doing some small stuff as I can and I will post up the progress, but I cant really do much until I have the time.

Please bear with me guys. Luckily there are many other beautiful theaters to keep you occupied for a while. :D

Ronnie

Ronnie,

Come on tell the truth - your HT is at a stage where the family are able to watch movies and they won't let you in to create noise & dust :D

Cheers,
Mark

well, after a 3 month hiatus i'm ready to revive the HT build again. Between all the work related travel and the holidays, I just couldn't do much on the build and thought it was best to wait. Its a good thing though because I'm refreshed and ready to go! I don't like much having this thing done. Here are a few of the things I need to finish up on.

1. Finish out the back wall with acoustic treatment and fabric. (the only wall left)
2. Start on the star ceiling. I think I'm going SandmanX style (full ceiling).
3. Install the grafik eye
4. Purchase some equipment.
5. Work on all the detail trim pieces.

In order to finish the back wall, I need to order my rear surround speakers. Since I'm not doing columns on the back wall, I want something that looks nice and that I can mold the fabric frames around. I need the speakers so I can figure out where to position them and build the frames around them. So I think I have decided on the following speakers:

Axiom QS8's for the rear surrounds. Nice looking, compliments woodwork.
Ascend 340 SE's for the front, center and sides. (all hidden)
Several others have used this combo and seem very happy with it.

I'm also highly leaning towards that new Mitsubishi HD1000u projector. At ~$900 it seems like a no-brainer. I want to run a 120" 2.35 setup with an anamorphic lens. With 9' ceilings and at least 17' to screen at max, I think it should work well.

For the audio, I'm looking at the Yamaha RX-V2600 or 2700. I also like the Denon 3806 or 4806, but leaning more towards the Yamaha.


If any of you pro's out there see an issue with any of this equipment I have my eye on, please comment. The February bonus is burning a hole in my pocket :D

I'm glad to be back.

Ronnie

Ronnie,

Looks great! Keep up the excellent work.

Welcome back, dude!

Bud

Well Ronnie, I don't know anything about the projector, but only ~$900? After all the time and effort you have put into the room, is that all you want to spend on a projector?
If I am missing the boat and the reviews on that projector are really good and people are saying it out-performes other projectors in the $2k range, or $3k range, then go for it, but otherwise, I would suggest looking into one that is a little better.

Putting money into the room the way Ronnie has is the way to go. Projectors do nothing but get better and cheaper. The quality of the low end projectors today are excellent and are better than the high end ones of just a few years ago. I say stick with a cheaper projector and then get another low end projector in a few more years when the bulb is nearing the end of it's life. Just my 2 cents. Awesome room Ronnie!

badgerpilot, you do have a point there, as I paid over $5k for my projector over 5 years ago (and it wasn't a high-end unit) and my new one was under $2k and way out-performs the old one.

Thanks guys. I dont believe you can discount the quality of an item based on its cost. Does cheaper mean the quality is less?

Equipment is one item you will never be able to stay on top of in terms of technology unless you have a lot of money to burn. Im not the guy for the latest and greatest and the price tag it brings. Here is how my thinking works for electronics and items such as the projector. I could spend 4-5k today on a projector and have something really nice. Or, I could spend $900 today and have something really nice, then another $900 in 12 months to upgrade and have the exact same projector I could have originally bought today at 4-5k, but saved $2000.

Does that make sense?

Dont get me wrong, I would love to be able to drop $20,000 on one of those new Sony's, but its just not practical. I would rather spend the money on the room and the things that cant be upgraded.



Ronnie

Welcome back Ronnie. Glad to see you at it again. I copied your exact design(with your permission of course), and have been waiting to see what kind of audio and video your going with. I agree totally with the amount of money spent on a projector. Try telling the wife that you need to upgrade the projector, after spending 5k on one. Two years later.

Reece

Well, I guess my only suggestion should be that you make sure that the projector is at least 720p native and that it can handle the current batch of connection options. Beyond that, you can't see into the future except that 1080p projectors will come down in price and be available at normal prices in a few years, when we are ready to replace what we have!

BTW, my old projector lasted me 5 years until I replaced it. Why did I replace it? The bulb was going out. Of course, that means you are spending (for that projector) $450 on a new bulb that will go into a 5 year old projector that while still working, is not as good as the new crop of cheaper ones...

So, I sold it on Ebay for $600, didn't need to pay the $450 for the bulb and instead went out and bought a projector for $1800 (figure it was just under $800 my cost, since I didn't buy the bulb and I sold the old one).

Well, I guess my only suggestion should be that you make sure that the projector is at least 720p native and that it can handle the current batch of connection options. Beyond that, you can't see into the future except that 1080p projectors will come down in price and be available at normal prices in a few years, when we are ready to replace what we have!

BTW, my old projector lasted me 5 years until I replaced it. Why did I replace it? The bulb was going out. Of course, that means you are spending (for that projector) $450 on a new bulb that will go into a 5 year old projector that while still working, is not as good as the new crop of cheaper ones...

So, I sold it on Ebay for $600, didn't need to pay the $450 for the bulb and instead went out and bought a projector for $1800 (figure it was just under $800 my cost, since I didn't buy the bulb and I sold the old one).


Thanks Scott. I didnt mean to sound negative towards you in any way. I was merely stating my thoughts on things. Trust me, I want a nice picture and I would not purchase anything that didnt satisfy me.

You should check out this projector and its reviews. They are nothing but great and everyone on the forum that has one loves it. If your familiar with the Optoma HD70, its the same caliber projector.

Here are a few specs:
MSRP: $995
Technology: Darkchip2 DLP front projector
Native Resolution: WXGA 1280x720
Brightness: 1500 lumens
Contrast: 2500:1
Zoom Lens ratio: 1.2:1
Lens shift: None
Lamp life: 2000 hours full power, 3000 lumens eco-mode
Weight: 6.5 lbs.
Warranty: 1 year Parts and Labor


Ronnie

Ronnie,

I'm looking forward to seeing your room in person on Friday. I'll be sure to report back to everyone my impressions on it as well. It was kind of nice that you did take a hiatus on the room -- it gave me time to catch up on my room a bit :D

Ronnie,

I'm looking forward to seeing your room in person on Friday. I'll be sure to report back to everyone my impressions on it as well. It was kind of nice that you did take a hiatus on the room -- it gave me time to catch up on my room a bit :D

Lol, see ya Friday.

I have a question though. Now that your caught up, will you be able to stay ahead? :p I know your plan. You want to get me over to your place to see all the custom speakers and IB stuff. That way you can sidetrack me into building my own and finishing before me...... :D


Its all good!

Ronnie

I just ordered the Axiom QS8's for my rear surrounds a few minutes ago. Now I just have to wait on the UPS guy to bring them to me next week.

Ronnie

Thanks Scott. I didnt mean to sound negative towards you in any way. I was merely stating my thoughts on things. Trust me, I want a nice picture and I would not purchase anything that didnt satisfy me.

Ronnie

Don't worry, I didn't take it that way, I assume you didn't take my post as negative toward you either.

I have not done the research on that projector, and hope that it wasn't around when I was looking to replace mine, since I didn't look at it. But, I had some specific problems/issues to deal with when I was replacing my projector, since I already had the location and screen set from the old set-up and the way I have the projector vented to the attic....

Lol, see ya Friday.

I have a question though. Now that your caught up, will you be able to stay ahead? :p I know your plan. You want to get me over to your place to see all the custom speakers and IB stuff. That way you can sidetrack me into building my own and finishing before me...... :D


Its all good!

Ronnie
Damn -- you figured me out ;) :D

My Axiom QS8's just arrived. :D Very nice and only took 3 business days for delivery.

I have to say these are some pretty nice looking surround speakers. They weigh about 15 pounds each and seem very well constucted. This should allow me to start on the rear wall fabric panels this weekend.

http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/speakers/IMG_1474.jpg
http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/speakers/IMG_1475.jpg http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/speakers/IMG_1476.jpg http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/speakers/IMG_1477.jpg


Ronnie

Ronnie,

I wish they had come in before my visit last Friday. I would have loved to see those things in person :(

Guys -- pictures of Ronnie's theater do not do it justice. His attention to detail and woodworking skills are phenomenal.

Ronnie -- Thanks for the tour! I can't wait to see/hear the room when you get the Ascend speakers and Mits projector installed. It should be an exciting month or so at the Jackson household :D Hope you don't have to work too many late nights!

Thanks for the compliments Steve.

Im anxious to get this stuff going again.

Ronnie

Great work Ronnie! One of the nicest HT's I've seen yet.

Matt

Great work Ronnie! One of the nicest HT's I've seen yet.

Matt

Thank you very much Route 66. Comments like yours make it all worth the effort.

Ronnie

Pics of theater so far??

Thanks

Pics of theater so far??

Thanks

Utah997, the thread is up to date. You will need to browse through the previous 30 pages to see the pics so far.

I have not been able to accomplish much of anything for the last 3-4 months, but its up to date.

Ronnie

Yo Ronnie!!
Good to see ya again!
Excellent call on the Axiom QS-8s, imo.
I have a pair for my side surrounds.
Little buggers are heavy for their size aren't they.
Those speakers are fantastic, especially considering the price.
You'll get an incredible soundstage plus they pack an unexpected punch on the low end.
You'd have to spend A LOT more $$$(like Revel S-30s) to get anything significantly better.
If I may offer some advice:
If you mount them in columns you might consider doing something to direct the sound from the vertically firing drivers into the room, like 1/2 cones or something similiar above and below the speakers.
Or then again you may not ;)

Curious - I thought you were considering the Ascends. What made you go with the Axioms instead?

Well I can say without a doubt the Qs8s are the best speakers I have ever heard in the surround paradigm. I was awestruck at how well their bass output is for small speakers. I did end up getting mine in columns and if you want to see what I did to put them there, here ya go...

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=707099&page=2&pp=30&highlight=ark

zxlr8 - Thanks for posting. Somehow I completely missed your initial thread. Like a number of folks, I have been noodling through how to best hide the Axiom surrounds. Did you make any final adjustments to your column design (like include the 45 degree top and bottom plate) or just go with what your photo pictures?

Yes, they ended up without the dispersion array on the top and bottom. I did not notice any difference in sound when I built a mockup for a test. The columns are open enough with a hole every few inches in the side supports. The biggest help is probably the flat plate on bottom and top so the sound can't get trapped inside of the oak cabinets.

Yo Ronnie!!
Good to see ya again!
Excellent call on the Axiom QS-8s, imo.
I have a pair for my side surrounds.
Little buggers are heavy for their size aren't they.
Those speakers are fantastic, especially considering the price.
You'll get an incredible soundstage plus they pack an unexpected punch on the low end.
You'd have to spend A LOT more $$$(like Revel S-30s) to get anything significantly better.
If I may offer some advice:
If you mount them in columns you might consider doing something to direct the sound from the vertically firing drivers into the room, like 1/2 cones or something similiar above and below the speakers.
Or then again you may not ;)

Hey Milt99, good to hear from you also! Sorry for the long delay in my build :(

As for the Axiom QS8's, they will be my rear surround speakers and will be mounted directly to the wall with no columns. Due to space constraints, I didnt want to put columns on the back wall. One of the reasons I choose this speaker is because it looks incredible and will be exposed. In my case, there will not be a need to divert any of the sound. Good advice though for those interested in putting these inside something since 2 of the drivers are on the top and bottom of the enclosure.

I will be using Ascend 170's for the side surrounds inside columns and 340's for front sound stage.

Ronnie

Curious - I thought you were considering the Ascends. What made you go with the Axioms instead?

Hi Misterkit, I will be using the Ascend 170's for the side surrounds and Ascend 340's for the front L,C, R.

I choose the Axiom QS8's for the rear because they will be exposed and I wanted something that looked visually pleasing. These fit the bill perfectly to go along with the Ascends.

Ronnie

Well I can say without a doubt the Qs8s are the best speakers I have ever heard in the surround paradigm. I was awestruck at how well their bass output is for small speakers. I did end up getting mine in columns and if you want to see what I did to put them there, here ya go...

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=707099&page=2&pp=30&highlight=ark

Zxlr8, Thats a really good idea you created there for the diffuser on those QS8's. I had seen your thread previously, but it didnt apply to my situation since I will be mounting mine directly to the rear wall and leaving them exposed (no rear columns).

If these things sound half as good as they look, I will be a very happy camper. So far everyone that I talked to that ownes a pair loves them.

Nice theater you have going there!

Ronnie

OK - I must have missed it someplace. I remember you discussing the Ascends and then I saw the Axiom's. Thats what I get for skipping the posts and looking for pictures. :)

Hi Misterkit, I will be using the Ascend 170's for the side surrounds and Ascend 340's for the front L,C, R.

I choose the Axiom QS8's for the rear because they will be exposed and I wanted something that looked visually pleasing. These fit the bill perfectly to go along with the Ascends.

Ronnie

Does anymore in the forums own the Axiom Grandmaster 350 home theater system? I'm looking for something that is wall mountable, great sound, and around $2000 US. The speakers seem to fit the bill however, having not listen to them I would like to know what people think of them who own them.

I have the Axioms :)
M22 fronts the 150 center and qs8's rear surrounds.
My side surrounds are phase tech and I have SVS 20-39 pci sub.
I love them. The sound ,the looks, everything.
This spring I'm going to get another pair of QS8's for the side surrounds and maybe add another SVS.
Axiom has great customer service and the price is more then fair for the product you get.
Go for it !!!

Axioms are awesome. Don't worry..

hi

I just burned a small hole in my credit card. Its still slightly smoking.

Ordered a few peices of equipment.

Receiver - Pioneer VSX-82TXS
Projector - Mitsubishi HD1000
Ceiling mount - Sanus Systems universal
Speakers - Ascend 340se's for the front and 170's for the side surround.

I already have the Axiom QS8's for the rear surround.

Next week I will probably purchase 2 of the Ficar Audio 18' drivers for an IB setup along with the Behringer EP2500 amp and the Behringer DSP1124P EQ. Then I guess its onto the star ceiling, the screen, and the HTPC.

Hopefully all this equipment will get my ass in gear to finish this thing up.

Ronnie

I received some of my equipment today from UPS. I cant wait to get this stuff installed. I am pretty excited just sitting here looking at the boxes. I will have to crack em open in a little while.

With the Ascend speaker order, I also grabbed the speaker stands for the right and left fronts. They had a sale of them for $100/pair. Thats the unmarked box on the far right.

http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/speakers/equipment.jpg

In the previous post (now edited), I said I ordered a chief mount by accident. Its actually a Sanus Systems universal mount. It has a full set of independent adjustments for aiming. it also includes a 7" extension if needed. I will not be using the extension due to the offset of my projector. It looks like a very nice mount.

http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/equipment/mount.jpg


I am extremely pleased with the service, responsiveness, and professionalism of both Projector People and Ascend. Everything was top notch and I would not hesitate to order anything from them again.

Ok, now I have to go play :p


Ronnie

Ronnie,

Congrats on the equipment purchase! You'll love that receiver. It has nice power and lots of bells and whistles to keep you busy for a while.

Wow Ronnie
I haven't checked on your thread in a while and am surprised to see all of your progress !
The equipment looks nice. I have to agree with Swithey your attention to detail and wood working are simply in a league of their own ! You really have a great eye for color.

Being able to envision your plans and implement them is a gift and you and Swithey are both gifted ! I have started my den to HT conversion and it is coming along nicely. I don't have a room configured that is conducive to a full blown stage like you have. I love your stage as it is the jewel and focal point of your room !

My plane is to have the room finished by the time my new JVC RS-1 arives next month.Take a look at my thread for a few pictures. Johathan

Thanks Jonathan. I checked out your thread and you have a very nice build going yourself. Cant wait to see the finished product.

I have to admit that I have been slacking for the last 5 months or so on my build due to time constraints. I think Im about to get back on track though.

Hi Ronnie,

I'm just starting to build my theater and have a space in my new construction that's 16' x 21'. I LOVE your design. The one thing I can't figure out from all the drawings and pictures is EXACTLY where the columns used for the side surrounds are placed relative to the viewer's ears. I've been trying to figure out the best compromise between the surround effect for each of the two rows of seating. It looks like your columns are a little behind the front row's ears and a fair amount in front of the rear row. So I assume you are considering the front row to be the "sweet spot". If you have time to give me details I would really appreciate it.

Looks gorgeous... very inspiring!

ERKQ,

When you go with columns I found it almost impossible to have them match aesthetically in the room and be in the spot you need them for audio also. And with two rows of seating its even harder. I tried to do the best I could and had to compromise a little. Early on I had made some drawings with 3 columns on each side, but it was just to much. The columns that house the side surrounds are 14' from the screen. My front row of seating puts the viewer at 11' and the back row puts the viewer at 17'. The side columns split the difference between the two rows. So this puts the side surrounds 3' behind the front row and 3' in front of the rear row. From all the experts I asked, it should still yield excellent sound even though its not perfect. I hope this explanation helps you. Let me know if you need any more info.

Thank you very much for you comments on my build so far.

Ronnie

Ronnie
Thanks for checking out the thread. I am updating as I accomplish something new ! I put it in a less traveled area so I don't have to try and answer to many questions while working on the renovation ! Thanks Johnathan

;)

Ronnie
Thanks for checking out the thread. I am updating as I accomplish something new ! I put it in a less traveled area on the forum so I don't have to try and answer too many questions while working on the renovation ! Thanks Johnathan

I bookmarked it so I can watch the progress. I woulndt hide your thread. The feedback, ideas, and support you get on this forum are tremendous. I could not have done half as well on my build without the input of others. At times posting can be a bit tedious to keep up with, but its well worth the effort.

I see your posts on several of the well traveled threads of other theater builds, so your in the game now. :D

Ronnie

I picked up a few more items today. 250' of 12 awg speaker wire and a Behringer DSP1124p. The speaker wire will be use to wire up the mains, center, and surrounds. The 1124p will be used as a 24 band paremetric eq for my IB subwoofers. You can check it out Here (http://www.behringer.com/DSP1124P/index.cfm?lang=ENG) info

The 1124p along with the Behringer EP2500 amp seems to be pretty standard in the IB world for driving some serious LFE's.

http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/equipment/dsp1124p.jpg

http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/equipment/dsp1124p-1.jpg

Ronnie

I picked up a few more items today. 250' of 12 awg speaker wire and a Behringer DSP1124p.
Behringer stuff is so CHEAP for what it is. It is what let me even consider a tri-amp'd 7.1 system with Outlaw Audio amps. I think it was you who suggested that combo. Thanks!

The 1124p along with the Behringer EP2500 amp seems to be pretty standard in the IB world for driving some serious LFE's.

Do you know to how low a frequency this power is available? Wow... 2400 Watts. I'd better give it at least a dedicated 20 amp circuit. But if I cranked it that much it would fry all 8 of my subs. Things have really gotten insane!

I received some of my equipment today from UPS. I cant wait to get this stuff installed. I am pretty excited just sitting here looking at the boxes. I will have to crack em open in a little while.

With the Ascend speaker order, I also grabbed the speaker stands for the right and left fronts. They had a sale of them for $100/pair. Thats the unmarked box on the far right.

http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/speakers/equipment.jpg

Ronnie


Is that your Xmas tree in the background ? Does Xmas come later in Texas ?

... and here I am asking the Easter Bunny for a new Projector.

Do you know to how low a frequency this power is available? Wow... 2400 Watts. I'd better give it at least a dedicated 20 amp circuit. But if I cranked it that much it would fry all 8 of my subs. Things have really gotten insane!


Here are the specs for the 2500. You can see the full details of this amp on Behringers (http://www.behringer.com/EP2500/index.cfm?lang=ENG) website.

http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/equipment/spec3.gif
http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/equipment/spec2.gif
http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/equipment/spec1.gif

Ronnie

Is that your Xmas tree in the background ? Does Xmas come later in Texas ?

... and here I am asking the Easter Bunny for a new Projector.


Lol, I knew someone would notice that :D Ya, thats my Christmas tree sitting in the formal living room. I have to admit that I have not had time to put it away yet. Besides, with all these new toys, it seems like Christmas!!!!

Ronnie

Here are the specs for the 2500.

Thank you! That -3db @ 5Hz is what I was looking for. Perfect!

Lol, I knew someone would notice that :D Ya, thats my Christmas tree sitting in the formal living room. I have to admit that I have not had time to put it away yet. Besides, with all these new toys, it seems like Christmas!!!!

Ronnie

Don't worry - your not the only one. I.ve still got some lights on a conifer outside. As they were green I didn't notice them but our HOA management agency did.....not good for a HOA Board of Trustees member to get cited :eek:

Glad to see your back at it.

Cheers,
Mark

Ronnie and others, make sure that if you are considering a Pro amp that many if not all have fans on them, so you need to have the amp in an equipment room. I didn't have that luxury, so I ended up getting a Buttkicker:
http://www.thebuttkicker.com/buttkicker%20amplifier_home.html
Buttkicker amp review (http://www.hometheaterhifi.com/volume_10_3/buttkicker-bka-1000-amplifier-9-2003.html)

Ronnie and others, make sure that if you are considering a Pro amp that many if not all have fans on them, so you need to have the amp in an equipment room.

Yes... mine is going in an equipment room.

Hi Ronnie,

Your Theater looks great so far and has a similar look to mine with respect to color choices although you would not know it as I need to update my thread. Keep up the good work you're getting there.

You may or may not already know this but when mating a consumer receiver to a pro amp there is a significant difference in the input/output signal level (-10dBV consumer and +4dBu on the pro), a level matching device such an ART Cleanbox may be necessary. I have a Denon 3805 receiver and both the EP2500 and the FBD. I had to split the single sub out 3 times (one for each sub and one for bass shakers) which dropped my signal level, then when you try to match the consumer -10dBV to the pro +4dBu signal you end up having to crank the gains to get decent output. If you have mutliple sub pre-outs and a decent output level from your receiver you may be ok but you will still have to run the gains hotter than with a Cleanbox or similar.

Has anyone else experienced this problem?

Rob

but you will still have to run the gains hotter than with a Cleanbox or similar.

Has anyone else experienced this problem?


Yes, I have. I use a Yamaha P-2200 for the woofers in a tri-amp'd system and I have to use a 15 db gain available in my eq to match it with all my consumer stuff. It works, but it's a kludge. Thanks for the Cleanbox tip!

Ronnie and others, make sure that if you are considering a Pro amp that many if not all have fans on them, so you need to have the amp in an equipment room.

Thanks Scott. My amp will reside in an equipment room, so fan noise will not be a factor for me. I understand these are pretty quiet to begin with. There are also a ton of threads in the "Cult of the Infinitaley Baffled" forum that explain how to mod the EP2500 for a more silent operation.

Ronnie

Hi Ronnie,

Your Theater looks great so far and has a similar look to mine with respect to color choices although you would not know it as I need to update my thread. Keep up the good work you're getting there.

You may or may not already know this but when mating a consumer receiver to a pro amp there is a significant difference in the input/output signal level (-10dBV consumer and +4dBu on the pro), a level matching device such an ART Cleanbox may be necessary. I have a Denon 3805 receiver and both the EP2500 and the FBD. I had to split the single sub out 3 times (one for each sub and one for bass shakers) which dropped my signal level, then when you try to match the consumer -10dBV to the pro +4dBu signal you end up having to crank the gains to get decent output. If you have mutliple sub pre-outs and a decent output level from your receiver you may be ok but you will still have to run the gains hotter than with a Cleanbox or similar.

Has anyone else experienced this problem?

Rob

Hi Rob, you bring up a good point. I have been wondering about this. From all my reading, it seems to be mixed. Some people adjust gain and others buy a converter box like the Art Cleanbox. They only run about $50, so its probably a good idea to get one. I thought about trying it without one first to see if I get any hum or other oddities by making the gain hot.

Swithey? if your reading this, how did you wire your Pioneer 82TXS/1124p/ep2500?

Ronnie

Hi Rob, you bring up a good point. I have been wondering about this. From all my reading, it seems to be mixed. Some people adjust gain and others buy a converter box like the Art Cleanbox. They only run about $50, so its probably a good idea to get one. I thought about trying it without one first to see if I get any hum or other oddities by making the gain hot.

Swithey? if your reading this, how did you wire your Pioneer 82TXS/1124p/ep2500?

Ronnie
I do not use a Cleanbox. The box sounds like a good idea but I'm happy with the levels I am experiencing now. I have my AVR Sub-Out level set at 0db and my power on the EP2500 at about 2pm (7am is min, 6pm is max). ebr is hooked up the same way and is very happy with his output. I have the same AVR as you and ebr has the 84TXS.

I do not use a Cleanbox. The box sounds like a good idea but I'm happy with the levels I am experiencing now. I have my AVR Sub-Out level set at 0db and my power on the EP2500 at about 2pm (7am is min, 6pm is max). ebr is hooked up the same way and is very happy with his output. I have the same AVR as you and ebr has the 84TXS.

My first reaction after reading this was to look at a clock in my office. Then, my second reaction was "Holy Crap!". I can say that besides a volume knob for an overall system, I have never had an amp level setting that high! Wow!

Swithey, I am just curious, does your AVR has a single sub out or does it have two sub pre-outs? If you have a single sub pre-out do you then split it it before going to your FBD? I think my problem is based on the fact that my single sub pre-out has been split three times which compounds the already low signal level expected by the pro amp. It still sounds great (2-12" Titanic subs in custom 5 cu.ft. ported boxes) but I feel that I am probably missing something. :D I figure $50 is pretty cheap for peace of mind and it will allow me to lower the gains so the amp can run more efficiently.

Rob

The Pioneer VSX-82-TXS has a single sub preamp out.

Here are a few items that Swithey pointed me to in the manuals that might help everyone.

EP2500 info from the manual:
PLEASE NOTE: The big DIP switch on the back of the EP-1500/2500 amps have +/- marks molded into plastic housing. On some amps these molded in markings are opposite the settings that are screened in graphic on the back of the amp.
If you're using one of these amps and you don't think you're getting enough low frequency output CHECK THE POSITION of the selector switches on the back of the amp.
DIP switches #3 & #8 need to be turned OFF, since there is confusing information as to which position is OFF, try both positions. In one position there's going to be a lot more bass than the other.
When #3 & #8 are OFF, it doesn't matter what position the 30Hz/50Hz switches (#2 & # 9) are in since they're deactivated.

http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/equipment/ep2500switches.jpg



DSP1124p Feedback Destroyer Pro manual says:
Use the OPERATING LEVEL switch to change from home recording level (-10dbv) to studio level (+4db), and vice versa. The level meters are adapted automatically to the selected nominal level, so that the FEEDBACK DESTRYOYER PRO will always work in its optimum operating range.


The DSP1124 has 2 channels, but it also has a coupling mode. My guess is that you feed the single preamp out from the AVR into the DSP1124 and run it in couple mode, then send out 2 channels to the EP2500 amp from the DSP. Or maybe you just use a single channel of the DSP, then split out the 1/4 phono pro connections into the amp.

Am I thinking correctly?

Ronnie

Thomas over at the "Cult" has a nice article on how to install and set up your DSP1124.

You can check it out HERE. (http://ibsubwoofers.proboards51.com/index.cgi?board=q&action=display&thread=1126642894) I believe you will need to be a member of their forum in order to view it.


I also found another BFD guide that is really good over at the home theater shack. You can check that one out HERE. (http://www.hometheatershack.com/forums/bfdguide/)

Ronnie

The best guide I have found for setting up the BFD is here. (http://www.hometheatershack.com/forums/bfdguide/)

I have not set up my BFD yet and I want to make sure everything else is correct before I spend the time to do so.

All the points you mention are true but I don't think any of them address the fact that your AVR output is -10 dBV and the input at your pro amp is expecting a + 4dBu level so you have already lost 14 dB of signal (give or take), if I understand it correctly. With the amount of power an EP2500 puts out you may still have enough power to keep your bass needs met (especially if you do not split your AVR sub out) but I would like to maximize what my system is capable of without the possibility of introducing noise.

The -10 dBV/+ 4 dBu switch on the BFD is only to calibrate the LED signal levels on the front of the display and I don't believe it compensates for the difference in signal on the output side of the BFD.

I would like to be able to operate the two channels on the BFD independently and if I understand "couple" mode correctly, the settings you make on one channel are copied to the other. To avoid using "couple" mode is why I have split my incoming signal into the BFD.

I hope I'm not misleading your thread at all I'm just trying to get a clear understanding on these issues.

Rob

Rob, From what I can tell, everything says to set this to -10 dBv so that it matches the signal coming from your AVR. This seems to be the way everyone is doing it. I would just hook it up and try it. If your not satisfied, you can grab one of those Cleanboxes for $50.

Are you feeding 2 different amps to power the subs? Is that why you want the 2 channels?


Please keep the questions coming on this subject. I need to know the answers also. Hopefully an expert will chime in for us.

Ronnie

Hi Ronnie, thanks for your reply. I don't want to hijack your thread any longer with this issue, I was just hoping to get this -10dB/+4dB straightened out so the next person looking for this info can find it. I am pretty sure that setting the -10dB switch on the BFD only sets the level for the LEDs. This way the clip LED is lighting when the signal is clipping which is obviously going to be at a different voltage for the -10dB and +4dB signals. If the switch was left at the +4dB level and connected to a -10dB source you would really have to crank your AVR just to get any of the LEDs to light. I have connected the BFD and did not find that it brought my levels up at all. Switching the -10dB/+4dB switch only causes the level LEDs to behave as described above.

I found a lot by doing a quick search on this topic and it seems very important to match the output level of the preamp to the input of the amp. In the case of mating a consumer AVR to a pro amp this means increasing the level. A Cleanbox also offers other benefits such as converting the the unbalanced RCA to a balanced XLR output which means you can use off the shelf cables without the need for adapters and the balanced output offers the benefit of longer cable runs with more noise rejection.

A couple of quotes I found.

"Good gain staging just means that you have a strong signal level throughout the signal chain—adequately strong to maintain a high signal-to-noise ratio, but not so strong that you clip the upstream gear, such as the preamp.

Then use only as much gain in the power amp as you actually need. Turn it up or down to taste, and leave yourself enough room to do most of your volume adjustments on the preamp or receiver or wherever you prefer.

The Crown amp is unlikely to be coloring your signal to any audible extent; it's more likely that your hearing is coloring the sound due to different listening levels."

__________________
Bob Lee
Applications Engineer
QSC Audio Products, Inc.
Costa Mesa, Calif.


Soundood said,
"One other thing to look at...how do you have your K2 mated to your Preamp? If you are using an RCA output going into an RCA-XLR adapter...you may be missing some voltage gain to the amp. Pro amps want a much hotter input signal. This can have quite an effect on the dynamics and output. If this IS the case...get ye a Cleanbox"

The reason for the two seperate sub channels is because I want to be able to independently tune each sub with the FBD. I have one sub in the front of my room and the other in the rear each with it's own channel from my EP2500.

I hope this helps. I will be getting my Cleanbox in about a week to try out.

Rob

The reason for the two seperate sub channels is because I want to be able to independently tune each sub with the FBD. I have one sub in the front of my room and the other in the rear each with it's own channel from my EP2500.

I hope this helps. I will be getting my Cleanbox in about a week to try out.

Rob
Rob,

Thanks for doing the research. Please let us know how you like everything once the Cleanbox is installed. If you get some nice positive gains, I'll buy one for my setup as well. What's another $50 when you have so much more invested in the room :rolleyes:

My EP2500 came in this morning. I picked it up at www.audiolines.com in Chicago. Brand new unit. I called them interested in a "B" stock unit for $199, but they were out. So I used a 10% off coupon from djforums and got a brand new one. He gave me a price of $270 for the new one. After discount and shipping it came out to $258.01.

Behringer packs these things very nice. Double boxed. This thing is heavy, it weighs 37lbs.

You can check out the full specs from the Behringer website HERE. (http://www.behringer.com/EP2500/index.cfm?lang=ENG)



Exterior box on left, interior box on right.
http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/equipment/ep2500.jpg http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/equipment/ep2500a.jpg

MFG pic of EP2500:

http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/equipment/ep2500b.jpg




Now, If I could just get those guys from FICAR Audio to return an email, I could order the 18" drivers and start building my IB. Anyone have any idea whats up with those guys?

Ronnie

Now, If I could just get those guys from FICAR Audio to return an email, I could order the 18" drivers and start building my IB. Anyone have any idea whats up with those guys?

Ronnie
ebr had the same problem. In his case, they did not respond because they were at a trade show. Once they got back, they were quick to respond and he placed his order.

Wow, just read through this thread and I am amazed. It is unbeleivable how nice your theater is turning out. I am green (a very, very dark shade) with envy.

The craftsmanship is great and the overall design is just amazing. Nice work.

Shan

Thank you Shan, its been a long road for sure. I appreciate the comments.

Ronnie

Today I ordered 2 x 18" Q series subs from FicarAudio (https://ssl.perfora.net/www.ficaraudio.com/sess/utn;jsessionid=1545ecb9cac2d30/shopdata/0020_Q/product_overview.shopscript) for my ceiling mounted IB array. Nice guys.

They are going to mod them a little to make them IB monsters. This includes using a different spider arrangement and series wiring the coils underneath the dustcap so you have a single 4ohm nominal sub. They are expected to ship out on Thursday, so I should have them sometime in the middle of next week.

Look out Swithey, here I come :D

Ronnie

Today I ordered 2 x 18" Q series subs from FicarAudio (https://ssl.perfora.net/www.ficaraudio.com/sess/utn;jsessionid=1545ecb9cac2d30/shopdata/0020_Q/product_overview.shopscript) for my ceiling mounted IB array. Nice guys.

They are going to mod them a little to make them IB monsters. This includes using a different spider arrangement and series wiring the coils underneath the dustcap so you have a single 4ohm nominal sub. They are expected to ship out on Thursday, so I should have them sometime in the middle of next week.

Look out Swithey, here I come :D

Ronnie
Great deal! I think I'll be able to "feel" the bass from my house. Wish the 18's were available when I bought my 15s.

Great deal! I think I'll be able to "feel" the bass from my house. Wish the 18's were available when I bought my 15s.

"Shurely you can't be serious"

"I am serious, and don't call me Shirley." (or something like that).

We are serious! :eek:

Quick question for you guys. I have been looking at the THX specs for rear surround placement and it says to put the 2 rear speakers together in the middle of the wall. I dont see anyone on the forums doing this.

Should I put my axioms together in the middle, or seperate them out?

Ronnie

Quick question for you guys. I have been looking at the THX specs for rear surround placement and it says to put the 2 rear speakers together in the middle of the wall. I dont see anyone on the forums doing this.

Should I put my axioms together in the middle, or seperate them out?

Ronnie
When I talked with bpape, he suggested about 6' -7' between them (I used ~7'). You want them separated because "someday" they will actually send an independent discrete signal to both L/R rear channels. As far as I know -- it is currently the same signal split over both rears.

I received my FiCar Audio 18" Q series subwoofers today. These things are MONSTERS!!! My goal is to get them installed in an array style mount this weekend. They will be ceiling mounted in the front of the room. I have 24" centers for the ceiling joists, so my plan is to build an array mount out of plywood and mount this to the ceiling spanning 3 joists.

This is what the mount will look like:
http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/speakers/IB.jpg

This is how they will look in the room:
http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/speakers/ibplacement.jpg


Here are a few pics of these things: They are freakin HUGE!! :eek:

http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/speakers/IMG_1537.jpg

http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/speakers/IMG_1527.jpg http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/speakers/IMG_1530.jpg


http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/speakers/IMG_1533.jpg http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/speakers/IMG_1535.jpg

Please tell me you aren't planning the bass-linked strobing pink and blue light rings around the IB subs :) (maybe this might be the new starfield ceiling?? ;-D)

Seriously though, I pity whoever is above the theatre. You must get some pretty significant sound transmission now...

http://www.kraft.com/100/art/pics/picplantersL.jpg

Once again, you guys are nuts!

Please tell me you aren't planning the bass-linked strobing pink and blue light rings around the IB subs :) (maybe this might be the new starfield ceiling?? ;-D)

Seriously though, I pity whoever is above the theatre. You must get some pretty significant sound transmission now...

Im going stealth with these. I plan on doing a star ceiling, so I will just integrate some grill covers to seemlessly blend with the star ceiling. It will be interesting to watch people try and figure out where all the compression is coming from :D

Ronnie

Once again, you guys are nuts!

LOL

Its EBR that is nuts. He has 4 of these!!! :eek: His Setup. (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=9643295&&#post9643295)


Im getting scared just looking at these 2 sitting in the floor.

Ronnie

Wow, that's awesome Ronnie. I like the placement selection, too. I'm assuming there is an attic above the theater? Is it somewhat isolated from the rest of the house, or do you expect to have quite a rumble in the rest of the house when you watch movies?

Tim, my theater is located above the garage and has a section of attic (its own roofline) that is somewhat isolated from the rest of the house. On one end (farthest from the woofers), it opens to the rest of the attic. This should provide some slight seperation, but im not really sure what to expect. I am going to assume that I will still hear it, but I wont know until I get it installed and running. I will keep you posted with the results.

I will take some pictures of the attic space later to give you an idea of what it looks like.

Ronnie

I installed my 2 18" Ficar Audio IB subs this weekend. Before I get started on the install pics, I just wanted to share a couple more pics to give you guys another perspective on just how large these drivers are. :eek:

http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/speakers/IMG_1569.jpg http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/speakers/IMG_1570.jpg


Ronnie

My plan was to mount the 2 drivers into the ceiling using an array mount and bolt it directly to the ceiling joists with about 20 lag screws. I showed this earlier in the thread, but here is another look at how they will mount.

http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/speakers/IB.jpg http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/speakers/ibplacement.jpg




I used a 26"x52" piece of 3/4" plywood for the array mount, cut out the holes for the drivers and stained it. Even though this will be covered with a grill, I thought it would look nice dressed out to match the rest of the wood in case I wanted to show someone. I figured it would make the speakers look more attractive.

http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/speakers/IMG_1542.jpg http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/speakers/IMG_1544.jpg





Once I had the mount finished, I test fitted it to the ceiling and traced out the holes for the speaker openings. NOTE: Those can lights will be moved back about 4 feet towards the center of the room later.

http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/speakers/IMG_1556.jpg




Next I removed the mount and cut out the holes in the sheetrock. All you guys know its a little scary cutting into perfectly good sheetrock. I guess this is the point of no return... NOTE: The lens perspective on the camera makes the roof (silver in 1st pic) seem as though its next to the holes. Its actually about 6' above those cutouts.

http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/speakers/IMG_1562.jpg http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/speakers/IMG_1565.jpg




Finally, here is a shot of the 18" drivers mounted in place. You may also notice that i changed the location of my center channel speaker. Originally I was going to either mount it above or below the screen, but I decided to go with a SMX perf screen, so I built a shelf in the center of the screen for it.

http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/speakers/IMG_1571.jpg http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/speakers/IMG_1589.jpg


Ronnie

Looking good... how do they perform?

Now, I guess you guys are curious to know how the IB sounds?

The first thing I said when I ran a few LFE demos through them was "HOLY FREAKIN CRAP" :eek: :eek: The next thing that went through my mind was "Im not sure I should have done this" ;) For those of you who have not had the opportunity to witness an IB sub in action, I promise you, its an experience.

Since I was anxious to hear them, the only thing I did was run my pioneer through the auto setup to adjust all the speakers. At this point, I have not tuned anything or even added the BFD parametric EQ to the mix.

For the first demo, I ran chapter 5 of War of the Worlds. Its the scene where the machines are coming up out of the ground and destroying everything. I had the pioneer set at -10. I was scared to go any louder. When those machines started rumbling under the ground, I could have sworn they were coming up out of my floor. The entire floor felt like it was rumbling and moving beneath you. You could feel everything.

The next scene I ran from a movie called Pulse. Steve/Swithey turned me onto this track when he demo'd his IB for me. Its chapter 15 in the computer room. It has some amazing LFE in it. Now this scene had me worried because it goes down to about 15hz or so and it oscilates up and down for about a 1 minute period. When I looked up at these woofers, they seemed to be traveling what looked like 2-3". I want to shoot a video for you guys of the cone travel on these things. The entire ceiling, floor and room was shaking and you could feel it in your bones.

At this point, I was very happy with the sub purchase, but not with my mounting design. The array mount is solid, but these woofers have so much force that they can flex the ceiling, joists and all. I could actually see the entire ceiling moving and dust and stuff was coming out from around the lighting fixtures. I was also getting a lot of rattling from items in the ceiling. All this extra noise, flexing, and fear that I might actually destroy my ceiling has me worried. It sounds good, but the mechanical flexing of everything but the sub is not going to work. After talking with they guys on the IB cult website, I thought my original design would be ok, but I guess not. SO......im going to have to come up with something different. I thought I might could add some additional bracing, but I think the best option is to go with the baffle design. You need something rock solid to keep everything from moving but the cone. Also, having opposing drivers in the baffle should reduce most of the mechanical vibrations. Steves manifold was rock solid.

My next delima is getting a manifold into the attic. The crawl space that opens up into this part of the attic is very small and I dont think I could drag a huge manifold through there. Im thinking I could build something that would fit between the 24" OC studs and lift it into place from beneath (with 3-4 guys of course). I also have attic space to the left side of the theater. I could place a manifold so that sound enters from the side just in front of the stage. I also thought about doing something similar to what EBR did, but this would require me to redo the screen wall (not really that big of a deal) and im also not sure how large the enclosure would need to be. I dont want to take up my entire stage. If it was feasible to build a box that 11'x2'x2', it might fit. just not sure that size would work for these drivers.


Im open for any and all ideas you guys might have. And if we decide to lift this into the ceiling, im asking for volunteers :D


Ronnie

Very cool.. Goes to show the big benefits of a manifold over line array design I suppose. Since I'm assuming you're going to need to plug at least one of your holes now, perhaps the easiest might be tearing out enough ceiling drywall that you can work up there without a problem and build it in place. Then put new drywall in place after it's all done. Are you planning on just painting your ceiling, or putting in a star ceiling, or fabric up there? If so, then it's no big deal to have the drywall seams, otherwise the biggest issue would be the annoyance of matching up and mudding the drywall seams.

So how was the volume in the rest of the house? Did it carry throughout the house?

Ronnie, are those pictures of you holding those drivers? Looks like you need to start working out more to handle those things, Holy Crap!

So, on the manifold. I would agree with Steve (from his thread) where he says a manifold will help (not from a been-there-done-that standpoint, but just a physics standpoint). I was thinking that if you were to build a manifold that is shorter than it is wide, you would be able to lift it up into the attic from the theater (with help).

Ronnie,

On the manifold, putting it to the left of the HT would probably be the easiest to install but would transfer a HUGE amount to the master bedroom below. I can say this because my garage is below my HT and the bass in there (even at low levels) is audible. IMO, this is not a good option if you ever plan to have someone in the MBR and HT at the same time.

I would think 2' deep x 2' tall x 11' wide is PLENTY for those woofers. It worked for ebr and may work for you as well. How much "stage" depth would you have after the box is installed? You might also ping Zinema's HT construction. He built a TL sub enclosure (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=9547901&&#post9547901). Looks pretty impressive, easy to build and no heavy lifting.

If you figure out a way to get it up there from underneath (hopefully without the need to remove too much drywall), I'm happy to give you a hand.

do you have a vent right above the screen? i had one in the same spot and it messed up the projector image every time air was blowing out of the vent. something you might want to check into. i ended up moving my vent out of the way. when the air blew it made the image swirl. it was weird. i first thought my mitsubishi hd1000 was messed up, until the heat stopped blowing and the image went back to normal.

Very cool.. Goes to show the big benefits of a manifold over line array design I suppose. Since I'm assuming you're going to need to plug at least one of your holes now, perhaps the easiest might be tearing out enough ceiling drywall that you can work up there without a problem and build it in place. Then put new drywall in place after it's all done. Are you planning on just painting your ceiling, or putting in a star ceiling, or fabric up there? If so, then it's no big deal to have the drywall seams, otherwise the biggest issue would be the annoyance of matching up and mudding the drywall seams.

So how was the volume in the rest of the house? Did it carry throughout the house?


Miltimj, I plan on doing a star ceiling, so patching the hole should not pose a problem. I also have to move those can lights further back into the room which will also require some patching. Im not good at matching drywall texturing, so going with the star ceiling is going to save me there.

I did not crank it up and go to other areas of the house to listen yet. I was almost afraid to. My daughter and her boyfriend watched a movie last night and i set the AVR at about -18. Plenty loud to watch a movie. I was downstairs and could only hear it every once in a while. Nothing to distracting at all. I dont have the doors on the theater yet, so a lot of that probably came from the entrance. My guess is that having it in a seperate section of the attic helps. Now I just need to figure out how to beef this thing up so it doesnt move the ceiling and mechanically vibrate everything.

Ronnie

Ronnie, are those pictures of you holding those drivers? Looks like you need to start working out more to handle those things, Holy Crap!

So, on the manifold. I would agree with Steve (from his thread) where he says a manifold will help (not from a been-there-done-that standpoint, but just a physics standpoint). I was thinking that if you were to build a manifold that is shorter than it is wide, you would be able to lift it up into the attic from the theater (with help).


Ya Scott, thats me. And all this time I thought I was pretty Buff ;) no comments from the peanut section please.....

I am still trying to decide how to approach a new design. I think doing a manifold would be the cleanest. If I go that route im thinking I could build a square box that slides between the 24 OC joists. Then once its lifted into the attic, I could attach a few 2x4's so that it sits on top of the joists.

Ronnie

Ronnie,

On the manifold, putting it to the left of the HT would probably be the easiest to install but would transfer a HUGE amount to the master bedroom below. I can say this because my garage is below my HT and the bass in there (even at low levels) is audible. IMO, this is not a good option if you ever plan to have someone in the MBR and HT at the same time.

I would think 2' deep x 2' tall x 11' wide is PLENTY for those woofers. It worked for ebr and may work for you as well. How much "stage" depth would you have after the box is installed? You might also ping Zinema's HT construction. He built a TL sub enclosure (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=9547901&&#post9547901). Looks pretty impressive, easy to build and no heavy lifting.

If you figure out a way to get it up there from underneath (hopefully without the need to remove too much drywall), I'm happy to give you a hand.

Steve, I think I have ruled out putting the manifold to the side of the theater. I actually like the ceiling mounted manifold because its in a seperate section of attic and seems to help contain the sound. It also keeps a stealthy appearance which I like.

I did some measuring tonight to see what something similar to EBR's might look like. I could build a box that is 22" high and 10' in length. Im wondering how thin I could make the depth and get away with it. My screen wall is 12" in front of the wall, so anything deeper than 12" would be out in front of the screen. I dont want to go to far out in front of it. If I do a design like this, I would convert the rest of the screen framing to match its extension into the room and create a shadow box so it looks seemless. I wonder if I could get away with 22x18x120? I also wonder how much of the IB experience I would loose going with a large sealed box.

Ronnie

That TL looks pretty cool, but I need to do a lot more research on that.

do you have a vent right above the screen?

One028, the vent you see is about 7 feet from the screen. Its right in front of my front row of seating. The camera perspective makes it look closer than it really is. Thanks for the tip though. If I notice any weird stuff with my projector, I can definately check that first.

Ronnie

I did some measuring tonight to see what something similar to EBR's might look like. I could build a box that is 22" high and 10' in length. Im wondering how thin I could make the depth and get away with it. My screen wall is 12" in front of the wall, so anything deeper than 12" would be out in front of the screen. I dont want to go to far out in front of it. If I do a design like this, I would convert the rest of the screen framing to match its extension into the room and create a shadow box so it looks seemless. I wonder if I could get away with 22x18x120? I also wonder how much of the IB experience I would loose going with a large sealed box.

Ronnie




You should talk to Scott with FiCar Audio, but the 18" Q series have a Vas of 22.3 (not sure how much the IB modifications done by FiCar may have affected this). Your box would amount to 27.5 cubic feet. In order for any true IB design, your "enclosure" needs to have a higher Vas than that of the driver. 27.5>22.3, but that is only for one driver. For a true IB design, you would need > 44.6 cubic feet. If you are limited to 27.5 cubic feet, it will start to act as a sealed compression enclosure (albeit a huge one with a a low compression mimicking that of an IB). You can gain a few cubic feet 'seen' by the drivers by stuffing the box as well. As for how much you would lose from the true IB experience I can't say, though I'm quite sure that it would still blow away the vast majority of theater LF capabilities of all of us other forum members.

You should talk to Scott with FiCar Audio, but the 18" Q series have a Vas of 22.3 (not sure how much the IB modifications done by FiCar may have affected this). Your box would amount to 27.5 cubic feet. In order for any true IB design, your "enclosure" needs to have a higher Vas than that of the driver. 27.5>22.3, but that is only for one driver. For a true IB design, you would need > 44.6 cubic feet. If you are limited to 27.5 cubic feet, it will start to act as a sealed compression enclosure (albeit a huge one with a a low compression mimicking that of an IB). You can gain a few cubic feet 'seen' by the drivers by stuffing the box as well. As for how much you would lose from the true IB experience I can't say, though I'm quite sure that it would still blow away the vast majority of theater LF capabilities of all of us other forum members.


Thanks Coolidge, I just emailed Scott at Ficar for some info on enclosure sizes and any spec changes that were done while building these for an IB design. I will keep you guys posted.

Ronnie

Ronnie,

here is what you need. A 60 cubic foot sub under your theater. 6400 watts, 160 db. Be a heck of a block party.

http://www.royaldevice.com/totalhorn.JPG
http://www.royaldevice.com/SubExp1.jpg

Ronnie,

here is what you need. A 60 cubic foot sub under your theater. 6400 watts, 160 db. Be a heck of a block party.


Thats pretty cool. I could turn my garage into one of those, but where would I park? :)

Ronnie

Ronnie,

here is what you need. A 60 cubic foot sub under your theater. 6400 watts, 160 db. Be a heck of a block party.


As impressive as it is (and it's REALLY impressive) the problem with horns is they always un-couple at some point. It all depends what the flare rate is. Get down to that frequency and the response goes away. Any idea what the cut off for this horn is?

AVS is running a powerbuy on the Panamorph U85 lens for $495 over HERE (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=10075098#post10075098) .

I just ordered mine!

Ronnie

here is the link..scroll down for more.


http://www.royaldevice.com/custom.htm

here is the link..scroll down for more.


http://www.royaldevice.com/custom.htm
WOW! Thanks! If they've matched the impeadance from the horn mouth to the room as they claim this is really incredible.

I can't imagine someone going through that much work without designing it properly. ;)

Ronnie, great thread with tons of awesome design ideas. Hope you don't mind, I might borrow one or two, or three!

Ronnie, great thread with tons of awesome design ideas. Hope you don't mind, I might borrow one or two, or three!

You can borrow anything you like. Thats what we are here for. Just let me know if you need anything.

Ronnie

Hey Ronnie,

My first post here, I've just been doing LOTS of reading trying to figure out what I need to build a home theatre.
I just had to say AWESOME work. You've given me many design ideas and I hope to incorportate some of your great ideas.

Sunny

Ronnie,

What's the status on the IB Manifold? Have you got it installed and tested yet? I'm sure everyone is anxious to see if that design helped to eliminate the huge vibration you got with the line array.

Ronnie,

What's the status on the IB Manifold? Have you got it installed and tested yet? I'm sure everyone is anxious to see if that design helped to eliminate the huge vibration you got with the line array.

Actually I have not been working on the HT much lately. The weekends are about the only time I have and its been so nice lately that I have spent a lot of time outside. You cant beat these 70 degree Texas days. I had to take advantage of it before it hits 100 :eek:

I have done a few small things that arent really sexy enough to post.

Ronnie

Ronnie,

Great thread I've been reading it all morning :) We have a lot of the same equipment with some different configurations but I'm curious as to what you think of the audio (if you've got it up and working that is) ?
Your home is beautiful - glad you posted some pics on your website was nice to get a "walkthrough" with pics like that. I really like the winding stair case and exterior of the house looks fantastic. (that house built in my neighborhood would be over 2 mil easy)
Looking forward to seeing more.

Cheers
Calvin

that house built in my neighborhood would be over 2 mil easy

Come on Calv1n, that's Canadian Dollars, here in the good old USofA, that would only be something like $1,999,999.00... Boy that exchange rate isn't what it used to be... :D

Ronnie,

Great thread I've been reading it all morning :) We have a lot of the same equipment with some different configurations but I'm curious as to what you think of the audio (if you've got it up and working that is) ?
Your home is beautiful - glad you posted some pics on your website was nice to get a "walkthrough" with pics like that. I really like the winding stair case and exterior of the house looks fantastic. (that house built in my neighborhood would be over 2 mil easy)
Looking forward to seeing more.

Cheers
Calvin

Thanks Calvin. As you can see, my website is way behind on updates for the theater. I guess I need to spend a few nights and get it up to date. The friends and relatives keep giving me a hard time about all the slacking im doing lately. At least this thread has it all captured though.

As for the audio, I am very impressed. The pioneer seems to be a very clean AVR. I have not callibrated anything yet (only run through the auto MCACC). This is only my opinion, so take it for what its worth, but I really like the Ascend and Axiom speakers I purchased. For the money, I dont think you can go wrong. They have plenty of power for my needs and sound very crisp and clean. At reference level on the pioneer, they are awesome. Now for the IB, that thing is just frikin unbelievable. I still need to build them into a manifold because im not happy with all the mechanical vibrations in the array style mount. Once I get that done, I can report back on wether its a success or not. Bottom line is i am a very happy camper.

Thanks for the comments on the house. The interior has changed quite a bit since those pics of the build. Lots of paint, decorations, window treatments, etc. Most rooms look quite different now. I guess I should put up some after pics on the site also. Its 4000 square feet and cost $266k here in Texas. :D Its worth quite a bit more now.

Ronnie

Hey Ronnie, did you ever come up with a nice piece of trim for the bottom of your front soffit to cover the staples? I'm about to do my soffit the same way and I'm looking for ideas.

Thanks,

Ed

Hey Ronnie, did you ever come up with a nice piece of trim for the bottom of your front soffit to cover the staples? I'm about to do my soffit the same way and I'm looking for ideas.

Thanks,

Ed

Actually I was just thinking about that over the weekend. I have not purchased anything yet, but I looked at some oak trim that was about 1" wide and maybe 1/4" thick. Its flat and compares to the screen door molding you see at home depot, but its in oak. I would prefer to have something a little bit nicer and maybe with some design in it, but everything I find is a lot thicker and I am worried about trying to bend it around the radius of the curve. I also still need to create some sort of center medalion to go in the middle of the curved soffit. I have a few ideas, but nothing final yet. I will actually probably be getting to that in a few weeks so I will let you know what I come up with.

I have a few updates to post, so hopefully I can update the thread in the next few days.

Ronnie

I have a few updates to post, so hopefully I can update the thread in the next few days.

Ronnie
Yea -- stop working on your tan and get back to work on the HT ;) We are looking forward to some new pics :D

Yea -- stop working on your tan and get back to work on the HT ;) We are looking forward to some new pics :D

LOL..... I know I am a slacker. I feel like I am letting everyone down. My thread was off on a roll of its own there for a while with lots of updates. Ok, I promise I will get busy. I wonder if the chicks like a tan and buff man or a home theater better?

Just for a quick update, I have finished the following.

1. equipment rack built and installed
2. Grafik Eye installed
4 Screen built and trimmed out with velvet border
5. Built grille covers for opening above and below screen that was going to house center speakers before I went with an AT screen.
6. All speakers installed
7 Playing way to much with all the equipment :)

I still need to finish out the material frames and trim on the back wall and redo my IB into a manifold design.

You guys just give me a poke to get me going whenever you feel I am slacking.

Ronnie

[QUOTE=ronnie_jackson]As for the audio, I am very impressed. The pioneer seems to be a very clean AVR. I have not callibrated anything yet (only run through the auto MCACC). This is only my opinion, so take it for what its worth, but I really like the Ascend and Axiom speakers I purchased. For the money, I dont think you can go wrong. They have plenty of power for my needs and sound very crisp and clean. At reference level on the pioneer, they are awesome. Now for the IB, that thing is just frikin unbelievable. I still need to build them into a manifold because im not happy with all the mechanical vibrations in the array style mount. Once I get that done, I can report back on wether its a success or not. Bottom line is i am a very happy camper.

Ronnie thanks for the comments I still haven't heard most of my equipment in action yet I hope I'm as happy with mine as you are with yours. :D

Thanks for the comments on the house. The interior has changed quite a bit since those pics of the build. Lots of paint, decorations, window treatments, etc. Most rooms look quite different now. I guess I should put up some after pics on the site also. Its 4000 square feet and cost $266k here in Texas. :D Its worth quite a bit more now.

Sometimes when I read things like this I wonder if I'm living in the right place - that house for under $275k is astounding :eek: You wouldn't even get a lot in my neighbourhood for that let alone a 4000 sq. ft house (lots across the road are now selling for $750k to 1.5 mil then you get to build a house after that ).
Remind me to retire in your area :cool:

Looking forward to seeing the new pics when you get a chance to update them and seeing the rest of the HT come together. Some new pics of that recently completed rack would be cool ;)

Cheers
Calvin

Ive been gone for a while and wanted to check your progress....From what I can see your quality of work has remained impecable and the theater looks and (most likely) sounds amazing!!! Great work!!!

On a side note...Its always amazing to me to hear the differences in cost of living around the country. I live in Indianapolis Indiana, home of the SuperBowl winning Colts by the way :) (just had to throw that in there, lol) my house is in a very nice neighborhood, 4 bedroom, 2.5 baths, 3 car garage and including the basement (if I ever finnish it) the square footage will be about 4800....I bought it 1.5yrs ago for about 255K. It has always amazed me when I hear about similar homes in other cities costing 4 or 5 times that. Maybe its the weather elsewhere that cost so much ;)

Once again....great looking work as always Ronnie. Maybe someday I will be in your neck of the woods and I can get a sneak peak :)

Well, I have finally quit slacking on the posting and figured I would catch you guys up to date with everything I have done so far. Its been a while, so bear with me as I make up for my insubordination. :(

I figure I will start out with the equipment rack and go from there. If you guys remember back in post 827 (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=8434296&&#post8434296) I had built my equipment rack to be hidden behind the fabric walls. You can see that procees in the link above, but here are a couple of pics to refresh everyone.

http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/rack-door/IMG_0308.jpg ...........................http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/rack-door/IMG_0309.jpg


For the rack itself, I didnt do anything fancy. I just kept it simple since it would be hidden and used some heavy duty shelving brackets that you can pick up at your local hardware store. I secured the brackets to the wall with 2" lag bolts into studs behind the sheetrock. I still need to trim out the top and bottom with some molding to make it more appealing from the backside. I will tackle that part later. I like this approach as it makes it very easy to add additional shelves or move the order of things around.

http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/rack/IMG_1508.jpg .....http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/rack/IMG_1511.jpg.....http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/rack/IMG_1513.jpg


I used MDF for the shelving. I notched the shelving so that it would slide into the opening in the wall and be flush with the front of the rack. This also makes the shelfves appear to float when looking at it from the inside of the theater. I will probably dress up the front edge of the shelving with some thin strips of aluminum or something similar. I have not decided what yet.

http://webpages.charter.net/jackson.ronnie/avs/rack/IMG_1516.jpg....http://www.ronniejackson.com/theater/forum/rack/IMG_1520.jpg


Here are a few shots with the equipment temporarilly installed. I will be dressing out all the wiring using cable management similar to what you would see in computer rooms and datacenters. Once I get all that squared away and the shelves populated like I want, I will be sure and take some more photo's. I also plan on making or purchasing some blank panels to fill in all the gaps and give it a more solid appearance from the front.

http://www.ronniejackson.com/theater/forum/rack/IMG_1952.jpg...http://www.ronniejackson.com/theater/forum/rack/IMG_1956.jpg


Ronnie

I still need to update the thread with the following items, but its almost midnight and the space I use for my pictures seems to be hosed up. Either that or I have filled up my allocated space.

1. Grafik Eye Install
2. Screen, Frame, and Border
3. Grille Covers for Old Center Speaker Locations
5. Speaker Pics
6. Back Wall
7. New Manifold for the IB (I built a 24"x24" manifold to replace the ceiling array)
I have the manifold built and the holes cut for the 18's. Just need to get my brother in law over here to help me hoist this beast up into the ceiling, secure it, and mount the drivers. Hopefully this will cure the huge amount of mechanical vibration the array mount was putting on the entire 2nd floor ceiling.

I will update the thread with the rest of this either tomorrow or over the weekend.

Ronnie

Looking good Ronnie.

Let me know when you have time to come by and redo mine. :)

Shan

Hey Ronnie -- glad to see an update! One thought on the front of the shelves -- glue on some of the extra oak veneer and paint it black. That will give it a clean look with just a hint of texture. If you want it totally smooth, buy some of the white Melamine veneer, iron it on and paint that black. I was thinking the metal would be cool but might take away from the "black look" of the entire cabinet.