Ah. So if I understand this right, this option will let you watch 4x3 DVDs, on a 16x9 TV, and not have them be forcibly stretched? Meaning, it can put black bars on the sides to 'fill out' the image?

I would like that. My old JVC player had that, but my Samsung player doesn't.

I'm still worried about burn-in, though.


Yes, the NS75H and the NS70H both have that option. My Samsung has the ability to turn any 16:9 image and stretch it to 4:3, however it makes it much easier and it looks better when the DVD player does it for you.

My Samsung has the ability to turn any 16:9 image and stretch it to 4:3

Huh? :confused:

Shouldn't that be the other way around?

Also, by your 'Samsung', do you mean TV? I wasn't aware of any TVs that could pillarbox (i.e. automatically add sidebars to a 4:3 picture so you don't have to stretch while viewing it on a 16:9 set).

One other thing, does the 75H have the ability to display the side bars in any other color than black? Gray, for instance? (There's that burn-in problem again.)

Huh? :confused:

Shouldn't that be the other way around?

Also, by your 'Samsung', do you mean TV? I wasn't aware of any TVs that could pillarbox (i.e. automatically add sidebars to a 4:3 picture so you don't have to stretch while viewing it on a 16:9 set).

One other thing, does the 75H have the ability to display the side bars in any other color than black? Gray, for instance? (There's that burn-in problem again.)


MY DLP TV by Samsung has the ability to take any 16:9 signal, even over the air HD and HDMI, and turn it into 4:3. It litterally squishes the signal adding black bars to the side. My model is the HLR5087W Captain Kirk Pedestal model.

My 75H can do the same and automatically detect it as well. And no, you can't change sidebar colors, it is always black.

MY DLP TV by Samsung has the ability to take any 16:9 signal, even over the air HD and HDMI, and turn it into 4:3. It litterally squishes the signal adding black bars to the side. My model is the HLR5087W Captain Kirk Pedestal model.

Now wait a minute, I'm still confused. I was talking about taking a 4:3 signal (like a non-HD television show, or a 4:3 DVD) and adding black bars on the sides so that it can be viewed on a 16:9 set without stretching. Not the other way around.

Or by "any 16:9 signal" do you mean, something that was originally 4:3 but was stretched to 16:9?


My 75H can do the same and automatically detect it as well. And no, you can't change sidebar colors, it is always black.

Only black, huh? Never mind, then. I don't want burn-in. That's what ruined my last set.

Now wait a minute, I'm still confused. I was talking about taking a 4:3 signal (like a non-HD television show, or a 4:3 DVD) and adding black bars on the sides so that it can be viewed on a 16:9 set without stretching. Not the other way around.

Or by "any 16:9 signal" do you mean, something that was originally 4:3 but was stretched to 16:9?



Only black, huh? Never mind, then. I don't want burn-in. That's what ruined my last set.


A little confused ;) I'll try to re-explain. Both my TV and DVD player can take a 4:3 signal, and display it as 4:3 with black bars on the side on my 16:9 TV set.

My TV can also do the reverse, by taking a 16:9 image and stretching it to 4:3. This is usefull when I have my DVD player set to always display all content as 16:9 from DVD's. For example, Knight Rider TV show DVD is in 4:3. When I display it on my TV, it is stretched. I can shrink it and make it 4:3 with my TV. I also have the option to leave my TV alone and do the same thing from within my DVD player. However my DVD player has an Auto feature which automatically displays all contect that is 4:3 as 4:3 on a 16:9 set by adding the black bars to the side.

I hope I make myself clear and you understand :) I am here to help.

However my DVD player has an Auto feature which automatically displays all contect that is 4:3 as 4:3 on a 16:9 set by adding the black bars to the side.

Are there any DVD players that can do this but with *gray* bars? Or any color other than black? (I don't want black bars, because of the burn-in problem)

Are there any DVD players that can do this but with *gray* bars? Or any color other than black? (I don't want black bars, because of the burn-in problem)

I don't know of any that can also upconvert to 720p or 1080i. You could do it with a computer HTPC perhaps using DVI and a special player program that shifts the colors slightly on 4:3 to eliminate burn in. If i'm not mistaken, even if the color was grey, you could still get burn in of a different scale with the grey. What type of TV do you have that is High Definition capable and can easily burn in? Plasma, LCD, DILA?? I would consider a DLP set in the future which cannot burn in ever.

I picked up the NS75H last night to replace my recently purchased Samsung HD860. I did notice a difference in picture quality. I have a Z3 and before most movies were decent, but with this player every movie looks a little crisper and with the upconvert, it's the first player that I've actually noticed a difference. Circuit city has them discounted on their site right now for about 10 dollars off.

My question is that under the HDMI audio setting you can choose Auto, or PCM. I have the optical out connected to my Sony receiver which does digital and dts. With all my other audio settings on the respective dts and digital settings, will it matter if I keep the HDMI audio setting on pcm? My receiver still lights up blue showing a digital signal, and the sound is still good, but I'm not sure if auto is the better setting.

Has anyone noticed a 2-3 delay before the sound kicks in when starting a new movie, or when the menu of a dvd pops up? I believe when I set hdmi audio to pcm it gets rid of this problem, but when I have it on auto I notice this issue. Can anyone shed light on this?

All in all, I love this player!

fasterface---PCM is still digital but from my experience, you will not be playing DD 5.1 through your system. With my HK receiver receing PCM (and my parents Pio 1015), it will automatically change to a Digital movie format like Dolb Prologic II or another digital type of soundfield but not DD....you should probably have it on auto.

I have not noticed any delay in sound on mine.

I could not believe when i went into my local best buy that in the section where they had returned items and open box items..there sitting on a shelf was the brand new display model of the dvp-ns75h with cardboard description sticker ..owner's manual and remote all sealed....i knew it had to be a mistake because there were the older display models moved there too..but i thought i'd take a chance and see if the sales guy would give it to me and at what price....he looked it up and said 129 less 30 percent!!!!..90 bucks for this brand new unit that was supposed to be out on display!!!...so i took it home and set it up and geez is this a great player....i hooked it up to my panny 42px50u plasma set via the components for now and wow what an impressive picture that compliments this tv.....lots of menu options to tweak the picture ...the big test for me was playing my homemade dvd's..especially the dl's which some play and some don't depending on which dvd player i use....and this player played them all flawlessly..i tried the phillips 642/37 dvd player..it plays everything you can imagine but the video quality was only ok..so i returned it and came home with the 75 h for such a cheap price....I will be checking it out down the road via the hdmi to my tv which unfortunately only has 1 input that is being used for my hd cable connection.....so far I watced King Kong, Return of the King, Toy Story 2 se, Madagascar and Sin City ..all were fantastic looking....if you can get one...go for it..highly recommended!!!

fasterface, I had the same problem as you. Set the dvd HDMi to auto.

The problem is with your receiver, not the player. I had to change my receiver to input auto, not pcm and the delay was gone. No problem at all now. Dvds and dvd menus load up with the sound right away.

Speaking to a Sony Representative over the phone, there is a fix for the DVP-NS70H with the image shrinking issue while using HDMI when it upconverts to 720pand 1080i. Apparently you have to send your NS70H for servicing and they will fix the issue making it the same as the NS75H.... At the moment, there technicians that work on DVD players can resolve this problem for all DVP-NS70H owners. So call up and you can get a free upgrade to a similar "bios" or upconverting techno gobbledygook if that is the fix of the NS75H.I went through (3) hierarchy reps at Sony just now over 30 min. only to get a so-called "product specialist" who said the problem w/ the DVP-NS70H black bars thru HDMI is because of a given movies aspect ratio! After reading him the riot act, & told him about 19 pages worth of AV Science forum folks w/ the same problem & asking for a product specialist that knows about this problem to no avail, I still got no insight to the problem. He read me Sony's warranty policy that says to send the unit in & choose whether I want it repaired or exchanged. That's it! Sony still is playing dumb/ head in the sand on this, so I will wait w/ my Event # ID in hand a few more months before the warranty runs out to try & get this corrected down the road.

What type of TV do you have that is High Definition capable and can easily burn in? Plasma, LCD, DILA??

I don't know what DILA means, but my TV probably isn't it. It's just an old style rear-projection unit.

I went through (3) hierarchy reps at Sony just now over 30 min. only to get a so-called "product specialist" who said the problem w/ the DVP-NS70H black bars thru HDMI is because of a given movies aspect ratio! After reading him the riot act, & told him about 19 pages worth of AV Science forum folks w/ the same problem & asking for a product specialist that knows about this problem to no avail, I still got no insight to the problem. He read me Sony's warranty policy that says to send the unit in & choose whether I want it repaired or exchanged. That's it! Sony still is playing dumb/ head in the sand on this, so I will wait w/ my Event # ID in hand a few more months before the warranty runs out to try & get this corrected down the road.

Remember how very large Sony is and I may get to speak to someone who knows about the problem, or is willing to admit there is problem when you get someone who plays dumb after seeing in front of him/her all the stated problems each unit has. The guys mentioned above all are upper level people ( they only give first names for some reason) and they spoke to the repair people who work and repair problems with your DVD player. It is 100% accurate that if you send in your NS70H machine in for repair, it will come back with an updated engine that displays the images exactly the same as the NS75H.

Also, you can pick up an AVIA or DVE from half.com. That is where I got mine and at a savings over Amazon.

Also, no matter what setting you use, then you should still try to calibrate your set with an AVIA or DVE disk. And it is true, not everyone here mentions what set they have their Sony NS75 hooked to.

Me... I have a Pioneer 5060HD Plasma calibrated and I leave the Sony set at Standard and use my AVIA disk to calibrate the TV... Important to note that for each input you calibrate... so like me who has two dvd inputs, and a tv/cable input, I calibrated 3 times. And it is interesting to see the difference in calibrations between the two DVD players.... I was anyway... I figured they'd be close, but nope...

Anyway.... like I said before... for $129, this is a great player for me... and should last me till I save all those pennies for a 59avi or whatever comes in the future instead.

Other questions on calibration, btw, are answered pretty indepth in the Display Calibration section under Display Devices.

I have the same tv. Do you have your dvd player set to output 720p or 1080i?

Ask to speak to Mr. ... [deleted per Supermans request] at the upper levels. Remember how very large Sony is and I may get to speak to someone who knows about the problem, or is willing to admit there is problem when you get someone who plays dumb after seeing in front of him/her all the stated problems each unit has. The guys mentioned above all are upper level people ( they only give first names for some reason) and they spoke to the repair people who work and repair problems with your DVD player. It is 100% accurate that if you send in your NS70H machine in for repair, it will come back with an updated engine that displays the images exactly the same as the NS75H.
Thanks for the info Supermans (makes me think of Reservoir Dogs... Mr. Pink, etc.). I included my earlier response in the DVP-NS70H thread to see if anyone has actually had their unit repaired.

Sony still is playing dumb/ head in the sand on this, so I will wait w/ my Event # ID in hand a few more months before the warranty runs out to try & get this corrected down the road.

SONY has to know of the shift problem. IF they believed there was no problem, the 75H would exhibit the same issues. Apparently, is does not! IMO, anyone under warranty with the 70H should return it for the 75H.

Babaganoosh -- You have me confused. Plasma panels can have a "burn-in" problem (more likely on older sets). CRT sets will show some phosphor "memory", but it should disappear after a while. Plasma sets need to run 16:9 mode for the first 250 hours or so, to get the phosphors set. Burn-in on CRT (RPTV) sets (should also be run at 16:9 for the first 250 hours too), which you claim to have, can occur if the only thing you watch is SD TV (4:3) for long periods (or all) of time. You also need to decrease the brightness on your RPTV (a too bright picture, the default settings, will permanently "set" the phosphors).

------
I'm confused. If the 70H had all these problems, how come we didn't hear about them before? People raved about the 70H and the 75H is better than the 70H. The picture size problems were talked about many times in the NS70H threads. It was only a minor problem and not seen if your display has overscan.

------
rhcorolla -- Some NS70H owners have gotten their units retrofitted (it's either earlier in this thread or in the NS70H threads).

5150zx -- Sony is now acknowledging the problem, if you get to the right people.

The picture size problems were talked about many times in the NS70H threads. It was only a minor problem and not seen if the display had overscan.

I wasn't talking about the shift problems. I was talking about all the talk in this thread about HDMI being 'soft' unless EE is added (Sharpness 1), grainyness/noise in the picture, player just being 'ok', no noticeable difference between this and a 6 year old progressive player, people preferring 480i on this player or component (which does not upconvert).

Those "problems" seemed (to me at least) like complaints related to personal preferences stemming from watching too much TV with excessive EE and artificial sharpness in the programming. Some people prefer watching TV that is oversaturated excessivly bright, and full of EE, and don't want to look at a properly calibrated display (the "it looks good to me" syndrome). That's OK (sort of) for TV, but isn't (IMHO) for movies on DVDs.

NOTE: The latest posts on the very expensive Denon 5910 (supposedly the best DVD player out there) complain about EE and sharpness problems too.

Babaganoosh -- You have me confused. Plasma panels can have a "burn-in" problem (more likely on older sets).

My set is not a plasma. It's rear projection.

CRT sets will show some phosphor "memory", but it should disappear after a while.

I'm not talking about image retention. I mean actual burn-in. My old set (which was also rear projection) had some serious burn. And I didn't just watch 4:3 material all the time.

My set is not a plasma. It's rear projection. I had assumed that, but had to make sure.
I'm not talking about image retention. I mean actual burn-in. My old set (which was also rear projection) had some serious burn. And I didn't just watch 4:3 material all the time. Then that says that your RPTV is not set up correctly. Either the brightness is set way too high or the high voltage to the tubes is too high. The other cause of CRT phospher burn is displaying static images for too long (30 minutes or more).

RPTVs are not intended to be run at brightness levels even close to single tube CRT sets. We have a CRT projector in the family (mine originally) that is over 25 years old. We've never had image burn on the tubes, but it was also calibrated correctly.

This entire subject is way off-topic. I was just trying to be helpfull. If you are concerned with burn-in, please post your concerns on the RPTV forum (click here (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=406182)) where there are experts that can help you with your problem. I see that you have also posted there (and your set is a CRT RPTV) but you did not ask your burn-in question, as posted here. This thread is concerns the NS75H, not displays.

Is there a region-free hack for the 75H yet?

I own the 70H and was thinking of the Denon 1920 as an upgrade, since that can be made region-free (i watch some region II movies occassionally) and would be my all-in-one universal player. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Is there a region-free hack for the 75H yet?

I own the 70H and was thinking of the Denon 1920 as an upgrade, since that can be made region-free (i watch some region II movies occassionally) and would be my all-in-one universal player. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Sroy, if you did hack your NS70H, it would render the warranty useless and Sony will not repair it. You could have sent the NS70H in to Sony and they do fix the image shift problem and make it the same as the NS75H.

This entire subject is way off-topic. I was just trying to be helpfull. If you are concerned with burn-in, please post your concerns on the RPTV forum (click here (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=406182)) where there are experts that can help you with your problem. I see that you have also posted there (and your set is a CRT RPTV) but you did not ask your burn-in question, as posted here.

Yes, I did. And nobody has as yet answered.

Sroy, if you did hack your NS70H, it would render the warranty useless and Sony will not repair it. You could have sent the NS70H in to Sony and they do fix the image shift problem and make it the same as the NS75H.
I didn't know there was a region-free hack for the 70H. If someone knows a region free hack for the 70H, I'd appreciate any information to make it region-free. So far, i've loved my 70H inspite of the image shift. I use my region-free hacked Onkyo DVSP502 player to play back region II, however that player doesn't upconvert to 720p/1080i.

Looks like i'll have to send my 70H back to Sony, as i do lose an inch on my screen due to the image shift issue.

I have an Optoma RD65H (http://www.optomausa.com/Product_detail.asp?product_id=28) in the description it says this:

DVI-D w/HDCP connector ensures connectivity with future digital devices

So if I get one of these cables from monoprice (http://www.monoprice.com/products/subdepartment.asp?c_id=102&cp_id=10231&style=) Will I get the "full effect" of a HDMI connection?

You should. The only caution is that the DVI digital video signal is only 8-bits, whereas HDMI supports 8-bit, 10-bit, or 12-bit digital video. This should not pose a problem (the NS75H manual says nothing about it). However, you may find that there may be very little noticeable difference, on your display, between connecting with a HDMI/DVI cable and connecting with component cables. It wouldn't hurt to try anyway (if it's not that much better, your not out that much money and the cables will work with your next display).

If I am correct I don't think that most DVD's are mastered in 12-bit didital video. I have used an Oppo to upscale with the cable you describe from Monoprice at it works fine. The cable is cheap enough to take the risk and I think you wil be happy with the results. Be sure your set works with HDCP or you might have a handshake issue.

hey are any of you using the DVD player with the Panasonic 900 and have calibrated with Avia or DVE-- could you post your settings for the player and projector??

I have several cables for my self and some I bought for friends from monoprice ..all work great..i have 2 dvi to hdmi cables that work as good as any store bought ones..and hdmi to hdmi that also is good as any store bought...good guys ..good build quality....and low prices

Thanks CT and rwestley! I am going to look at picking up this sony next week from CC. Will post my findings here.

In case anyone is planning on picking one of these Sony's up, and have a CC nearby.... they are on sale for less than the MSRP discussed here.

I hooked up the 85 changer this weekend and so far I don't see a lot of difference between HDMI or component out to the TV. They are both hooked up and I can switch back and forth between the two. I have also confirmed they the DVD player is upconverting to 480p, 720p, or 1080i -- whichever I select from the menu. I have a digital cable running from the player to the receiver input and I have confirmed 5.1 and DTS--sounds great!! For the main sound on the TV I have an optical out from the TV to the receiver and my TV will output ( per the manual ) 5.1 over the optical. However when I select the HDMI input ( dvd player ) on the TV the receiver displays 48 PCM and only goes to 2.1 when I have the TV selected on the receiver ( sony ). Anyone have an answer to this? Why is it not passing 5.1 from the dvd to the TV and then on to the receiver? I am trying to use only the TV remote for watching DVDs instead of using the receiver remote also. While watching DVDs via HDMI, I can select the DVD player on the receiver ( digital coax ) and I will regain the 5.1 and DTS so its not a huge deal. Just hoping that one of you fellas has run across this already and could shed some light.

I still think the HDMI socket / cable connection is crappy. My HDMI cable out of this DVD player is very sloppy and seems like it will pop out at any time. The signal connection is good however since the HDMI light is on and the movies look fine. Any help on the above questions will be appreciated.



Can anyone help me get rid of the PCM 48 that is displaying on my receiver from the TV while playing the 85 DVD player??

changed your receiver to auto instead of PCM and it will go away.

rhcorolla -- Some NS70H owners have gotten their units retrofitted (it's either earlier in this thread or in the NS70H threads).

It's funny how things are sometimes perceived, but after checking the 18 pages of this thread & the 19 pages of the NS70H thread; I could only find one person who has sent their NS70H to Sony for repair. He has been waiting for 6 weeks now & still doesn't have a unit returned with the problem corrected.

I found (5) people incl. me who called Sony & got clueless responses.

I really enjoy the NS70H very much; but I would like for Sony to own up to the problem & correct it promptly.

I am about to buy an upscaling DVD player and I am trying to decide between this and the Oppo. From what I have seen here, the pq isn't too far off and, at the very least, does not have the MB problem. Plus, it's a good bit cheaper and available locally.

However, that said, I have an H77 that was calibrated and upgraded by a forum member (Tom) and an Oppo was used to calibrate the DVI input.

I don't how much of the calibration on that input would be 'wasted' or different if I used the Sony instead of the Oppo or how the calibrated H77 deals with MB.

Anyone have any suggestions on my particular situation ? Feel free to use PM or forum, as appropriate. Thanks in advance !

anybody here compared this sony dvd player to the new panasonic s52s dvd player?

anybody here compared this sony dvd player to the new panasonic s52s dvd player?
I would like to know this also. One of these two models will be mine within the next few weeks. I'd like to know if this Sony outputs better sound than the Panny. I've heard the Sony sounds great.

i have this dvd player and i have it hooked up to a sony 34xbr via an accustic research hdmi cable and i notice a very grainy picture i was wondering if it is the dvd player or the less expensive hdmi cable i have hooked up

what DVD's have you tried? What setting you sending signal at? 480, 720, 1080? Which? Give a couple more details.

Where is the cable from?

Well.....I've got some bad news. I bought from circuit city today the new 75h and the new 85 (5-disk changer) to try out via HDMI to my panny 42px50u plasma. Unfortunately, I noticed that when using 720p or 1080i there is still a shift when playing dvd's with bars on the top and bottom. It's not as bad as the 70h, but there is an additional 7/16" of black bar on the top of any dvd's. I thought this issue was fixed and I tried all the different settings to verify this. Has anyone come up with this conclusion as well?

Well.....I've got some bad news. I bought from circuit city today the new 75h and the new 85 (5-disk changer) to try out via HDMI to my panny 42px50u plasma. Unfortunately, I noticed that when using 720p or 1080i there is still a shift when playing dvd's with bars on the top and bottom. It's not as bad as the 70h, but there is an additional 7/16" of black bar on the top of any dvd's. I thought this issue was fixed and I tried all the different settings to verify this. Has anyone come up with this conclusion as well?


The shift issue was fixed and there should be no black bars on a full 16:9 movie. The shift issue was only a problem using HDMI and at 720p and 1080i with the NS70H. Now, I find it hard to believe that both the 85 and 75 are giving you the same black bars. Check to see if you're getting black bars at all on component as well. Also, test both DVD players on another TV because I do feel this could be a problem with your model panny plasma HDTV while using HDMI. ANother question is what other DVD player were you using before? It is possible that you could be making this up to get something started on this thread. In either case, I will try and help you if you cooperate.

I can assure you that every movie I put in is being mapped correctly on my DLP with the new DVP-NS75H by Sony. If anything is occuring at all, it is with my own eyes which got used to the DVP-NS70H shrinking the image slightly of all my movies. So now when I play my movies in the correct Aspect Ratio, it seems alittle stretched compared to what I have in memory. Basically I have to get used to watching movies correctly once more.

I see no shift on my PIO 5060HD, as I have said before. But that is pretty exacting down to the actualy measurement. 7/16"... you actually went and got a tape measure?

Anyway I think only one person here has been very strongly at all convinced he had the shift (Bill I think?)... no one else has.

Well.....I've got some bad news. I bought from circuit city today the new 75h and the new 85 (5-disk changer) to try out via HDMI to my panny 42px50u plasma. Unfortunately, I noticed that when using 720p or 1080i there is still a shift when playing dvd's with bars on the top and bottom. It's not as bad as the 70h, but there is an additional 7/16" of black bar on the top of any dvd's. I thought this issue was fixed and I tried all the different settings to verify this. Has anyone come up with this conclusion as well?

Have you tried the 75 and 85 on your two month old Sony KDFE50A10 LCD RPT?

Yeah, I actually did go up there and measure....that is on my 42" panasonic plasma...also tested it on my 23" lcd monitor...same thing. This was with both new sony players. It's not that noticeable but because of previous issues with the 70h, I wanted to go up and measure it. I will be testing both players on my parents Sony 50" A10 series rptv. 480P looks great...no shift/bar issue...but it's there with 720p and 1080i...do you think I have something set wrong? I triple checked each player on both displays.

720P looks great...despite the 'slight' shift issue. 480p looked nice too via hdmi but I couldn't tell the difference between that and component...there was significant grainyness on certain darker dvd scenes.

Supermans, by no means am I trying to start anything with the shift issue. Believe me, I thought I would be done with dvd players when I bought both of these. I will check this with component cables when I get home today. The black bar was definitely noticeable when I tried out the 70h (because it was almost double the bar size). I will try different settings and adjustments when I get home to make sure that there isn't some other setting issue.

what dvd did you test it with that gave you the grainy look? I know some have said WOTW has that, but it is the DVD transfer from what I hear.... dunno... not in enough of a Tom Cruise mode to pull that one out... :D

The grainy look came from a couple of scenes in Star Wars Episode III....it was a couple darker scenes with Padme at night and when Padme goes to that volcano-like planet. It went away when it was upconvering to 720P.

One other question...what does leaving your hdmi (for picture settins) on auto instead of having it on 720P, 1080i, 480p??

turn on the mosquito noise reduction "MNR" from the settings and the noise/grainy pictures will go away. thats what i notice too when i first hook up my new dvd player to my projector.

there are 3 dvpnc85h/b upconvert players in my house. one is on a sony kdf42we655, one is on a kdfe42a1o and the other on a samsung LN-S3251D (roommates tv) there is no image shift on any of these tv's.

Yeah, I actually did go up there and measure....that is on my 42" panasonic plasma...also tested it on my 23" lcd monitor...same thing. This was with both new sony players. It's not that noticeable but because of previous issues with the 70h, I wanted to go up and measure it. I will be testing both players on my parents Sony 50" A10 series rptv. 480P looks great...no shift/bar issue...but it's there with 720p and 1080i...do you think I have something set wrong? I triple checked each player on both displays.

I didn't read it in any of these most recent posts, but what exact disc and aspect ratio were you using to see the shift. Possibly depending on your displays overscan,
a 1.85:1 OAR dvd 'may' show very small(7/16" ;) ) black bars, whereas a 1.78:1 OAR dvd will have no black bars showing. Just a thought....

changed your receiver to auto instead of PCM and it will go away.


I double-checked this last night and its already set to auto. At this point it seems like the 85 is sending a PCM 48 signal out to the TV via the HDMI and the TV is just passing this signal through to the receiver. Will this player only send out PCM via HDMI?? I can get DD if I switch the receiver to DVD and use that inputs' audio. I'm just trying to avoid switching at the receiver if at all possible.

I may just end up buying a universal remote so I won't have to switch back and forth between them so much.

Supermans, by no means am I trying to start anything with the shift issue. Believe me, I thought I would be done with dvd players when I bought both of these. I will check this with component cables when I get home today. The black bar was definitely noticeable when I tried out the 70h (because it was almost double the bar size). I will try different settings and adjustments when I get home to make sure that there isn't some other setting issue.

Sorry to imply that you were stating anything but facts. I wish you good luck and can only let you know of my experiences too. The uato feature you refer to simply figures out for you what the highest resolution your TV HDMI input can accept. In my case, even though my TV can accept 1080i, I believe 720p looks better so I manually choose that. Auto picks 1080i for me even though my TV is a 720p set. I plugged in my NS75H with component just to make sure and I'm seeing exactly the same Aspect Ratio which fully fits my screen as I do with HDMI. I took a picture with my digital camera on all resolutions and it was the same with both component and HDMI. On my HLR5087W by Samsung, I see no shift or black bar anymore. What movie's exactly are you testing out that you are seeing these black bars? It's possible that it is only on certain DVD's. I've tested out perhaps 10% of my DVD collection just to see how it looks and everything looks better than before and perfectly fits the screen. The MNR feature is really an improvement over the previous 70H model on older DVD's. mlb585, I can only ask you now to maybe post some digital camera pictures of the shift occuring. However first just let us know what DVD or test material you are using so I can do the same if I have them.

I have the shift too. But on my 52" toshiba DLP I always have small black bars on the top and bottom when watching DVDS. Some of you said you have NO BARS at all? How can that be unless you are zooming the image or cropping it? 2.35:1 films are skinnier than a 16x9 screen?

Anyway, when I use component cables the bars are normal size. When I use HDMI input on either of the 3 resolutions the top bar is about 3/4" larger, so there is really no shift but the letter box is smaller because hte shrinks down from the top only about an extra 3/4" over component connections. This could be due to my tv overscan, but since others have reported this, I am starting to wonder. If you don't compare it to component inputs you will never notice it.

Bill97Z--- You hit the nail on the head. It's that my top bar (when watching a DVD) is almost a half an inch larger than the bottom one. Is this an overscan problem of some sort with my tv? I have a Panny 42px50u plasma...I will try this over component and see how it works.

Bill97Z--- You hit the nail on the head. It's that my top bar (when watching a DVD) is almost a half an inch larger than the bottom one. Is this an overscan problem of some sort with my tv? I have a Panny 42px50u plasma...I will try this over component and see how it works.

I notice this too on my 50X50U when watching LOTR (Specifically ROTK). The top bar is bigger than the bottom bar. However, in other different aspect ratio films, the whole screen is filled.

I played LOTR and the bars on top and bottom are the same size on my HLR5087W Sammy. I also played "Finding Nemo" widescreen and it fills up the entire screen, no black bars just now. Are you sure your testing the NS75H and not the NS70H??? Ofcourse you are ;) I think this is a problem with overscan on your TV. I can tell you that the pixel mapping which is 1:1 at 720p without wobulation is perfect now with the NS75H on my TV. If anyone else can chime in and also verify if they are having an issue or not, it would shed some light and help those two who are having a problem.

It seems to be a local setting of some sort on mlb585's setup. I, like many others here have had both the 70 and the 75. The showstopper flaw of the 70 was the shift and has been documented with hundreds of posts. It was the #1 thing I and several others looked for when the 75 showed up. All movies that used to have a shift on the 70 for me now play correctly on the 75. The only thing I have adjusted is the calibration, nothing else - no overscan settings, zooms or anything. The shift issue is isolated specifically to the 70, not the 75. If it were still present this thread would be on fire with posts about it.

Finding Nemo and Madagascar (widescreen) will fill up the entire screen....we're talking about dvd's that have aspect ratios in which there will be a letterbox bar on the top and bottom of the picture. In our case, with the 75h, the bar on the top of the screen is larger than the one on the bottom when upconverting using hdmi output.

Are people using Sharpness 0 or 1? Sharpness 1 looks clearer on my tv so I may keep it there, even though I assume it is adding info that is not on the DVD.

Finding Nemo and Madagascar (widescreen) will fill up the entire screen....we're talking about dvd's that have aspect ratios in which there will be a letterbox bar on the top and bottom of the picture. In our case, with the 75h, the bar on the top of the screen is larger than the one on the bottom when upconverting using hdmi output.

mlb585, this has to be something with your tv that is making the image shift this time half an inch downward when watching a widescreen movie. Some non-anamporphic content on Laser Disc was letterboxed and shifted upward on purpose to make the widescreen movie more at eye level on large 60 inch projection TV's of the time. The shift issue was the main reason I sent my old NS70H back to Sony for a buyback refund and purchased the NS75H. I would be on here fuming if I had the same shifting issue again after going thru all that trouble with Sony's tech support.

Are people using Sharpness 0 or 1? Sharpness 1 looks clearer on my tv so I may keep it there, even though I assume it is adding info that is not on the DVD.


My DLP TV is very sensetive to me adding the sharpness to it from the DVD's menu. Since I have a Samsung, it already sharpens the image quite a bit with Dnie on. When I add sharpness to it with the DVD player, it adds a little noise which is visible around the actors as well as spots or dots in their faces on some DVD's. I know this is because the DVD's I was using already have a little grain, and the Sharpness setting only enhances that. On other movies, maybe it doesn't do it as much. What I am doing now is seeing if MNR is helping out or making things worse on certain DVD's thru HDMI. It is hard to tell so most of the time I leave it off.

720P looks great...despite the 'slight' shift issue. 480p looked nice too via hdmi but I couldn't tell the difference between that and component...there was significant grainyness on certain darker dvd scenes.

I too have been struggling with grainyness in darker scenes. Problem DVDs so far: Return of the King (Shelob's cave) and King Kong (when the boat enters the fog). I thought these were both good transfers. I have tried adjusting both the display (Maxent MX-50X3) and the DVD player (85H) to no avail. The MNR doesn't really seem to do anything, nor does changing the resolution modes. I have tried both Standard and Cinema 1 modes, and component and HDMI (both from Monoprice) as well with no effect. The only thing that works is decreasing the panel's brightness and contrast, but that makes the movie unwatchable! Any other ideas?

No shift that I can tell - of course, I never had a 70H.

I too have been struggling with grainyness in darker scenes. Problem DVDs so far: Return of the King (Shelob's cave) and King Kong (when the boat enters the fog). I thought these were both good transfers. I have tried adjusting both the display (Maxent MX-50X3) and the DVD player (85H) to no avail. The MNR doesn't really seem to do anything, nor does changing the resolution modes. I have tried both Standard and Cinema 1 modes, and component and HDMI (both from Monoprice) as well with no effect. The only thing that works is decreasing the panel's brightness and contrast, but that makes the movie unwatchable! Any other ideas?

No shift that I can tell - of course, I never had a 70H.

I have King Kong and notice no grainyness so far in the scenes you mention. In fact, I have it on Cinema 2 and nothing else. I adjust my TV brightness up 4 notches as well.

I have King Kong and notice no grainyness so far in the scenes you mention. In fact, I have it on Cinema 2 and nothing else. I adjust my TV brightness up 4 notches as well.

I'm going to watch King Kong with my son tonight so I'll keep an eye on that scene and be on the "grainy check".

I'm going to watch King Kong with my son tonight so I'll keep an eye on that scene and be on the "grainy check".


This is why I love this forum. :) All the help. Especially once a new product we all rush out to buy comes out and we all test it and re-test it until our eyes pop out.

This is why I love this forum. :) All the help. Especially once a new product we all rush out to buy comes out and we all test it and re-test it until our eyes pop out.

Yeah, sometimes I think I should just forget about all this stuff and just watch the movie - but it is too tempting to dig into the nitty-gritty.

I too have been struggling with grainyness in darker scenes. Problem DVDs so far: Return of the King (Shelob's cave) and King Kong (when the boat enters the fog). I thought these were both good transfers. I have tried adjusting both the display (Maxent MX-50X3) and the DVD player (85H) to no avail. The MNR doesn't really seem to do anything, nor does changing the resolution modes. I have tried both Standard and Cinema 1 modes, and component and HDMI (both from Monoprice) as well with no effect. The only thing that works is decreasing the panel's brightness and contrast, but that makes the movie unwatchable! Any other ideas?

No shift that I can tell - of course, I never had a 70H.

Is your Maxent calibrated? Either professionally or with an AVIA/DVE disk? Just curious....

I just watched King Kong with some friends on the 75 and my Pio 5060HD and I saw no grainyness... I just went and checked again after reading this and confirmed.... no grainyness. Any chance it is the Maxent? I know nothing about Maxent's so do not shoot me for asking. I will say with this player, I have some much better audio from my rear surrounds in King Kong... lol. Had a couple of people this weekend jumping out of their seats...lol.

Is your Maxent calibrated? Either professionally or with an AVIA/DVE disk? Just curious....

I just watched King Kong with some friends on the 75 and my Pio 5060HD and I saw no grainyness... I just went and checked again after reading this and confirmed.... no grainyness. Any chance it is the Maxent? I know nothing about Maxent's so do not shoot me for asking. I will say with this player, I have some much better audio from my rear surrounds in King Kong... lol. Had a couple of people this weekend jumping out of their seats...lol.


My Maxent has not been professionally calibrated - only tweaked by me with the THX Optimizer and my own eye balls. I am hoping to get an AVIA disc this weekend to see if it helps. I don't need professional quality, but the grainyness is pretty obvious all throughout the movie (but especially in the fog). I bought the Maxent MX-50X3 based on a good price, good testimonials here at AVS, and because it uses Panasonic glass. Just the thought of returning this monster makes me shudder. Hopefully it is just a calibration issue.

I had a 70H for almost a month that I returned to the store. Other than the shift issue(which was really not a huge deal to me) I did notice on that player that when using HDMI and upconverting to 720p and 1080i that the black bars on 2:35.1 movies were larger(obviously making the letterbox smaller) than when set to 480. It was disappointing to me to have 2:35.1 movies become smaller than what I have with my panny prog. scan using component. It wasn't worth the loss of screen size for the upconvert on my sony 42a10 since I couldn't really say that the picture was any better with the 70H. I did really like the player otherwise and have followed this thread with interest while I think about trying a 75H out to see if its any different. After reading some of these posts though, I have a feeling its gonna be the same deal---smaller letterbox(larger black bars) on 2:35.1 movies when using HDMI and upconverting vs. staying with component at 480p
Is there anybody with a 42a10 or 50a10 that can confirm no difference in letterbox and black bar size using HDMI upconverted vs. component at 480p?

Where is the best and cheapest place to get a calabration disc? I have the graininess problem and NEED to correct this because it really bothers me when I try to watch movies.

As I've posted before, I have the NS75H connected to a Sharp 32" LCD and like it a lot. Yesterday I had my dad get one and hooked it up to his Pioneer 4360 plasma. It looks excellent with the plasma too. So far I've seen nothing to indicate that this player is anything other than a great value. I hooked it up to the plasma via HDMI and calibrated it with Digital Video Essentials. Using Cinema 1 mode so that we get BTB and have Sharpness at 0, and MNR and BNR off.

I had a 70H for almost a month that I returned to the store. Other than the shift issue(which was really not a huge deal to me) I did notice on that player that when using HDMI and upconverting to 720p and 1080i that the black bars on 2:35.1 movies were larger(obviously making the letterbox smaller) than when set to 480. It was disappointing to me to have 2:35.1 movies become smaller than what I have with my panny prog. scan using component. It wasn't worth the loss of screen size for the upconvert on my sony 42a10 since I couldn't really say that the picture was any better with the 70H. I did really like the player otherwise and have followed this thread with interest while I think about trying a 75H out to see if its any different. After reading some of these posts though, I have a feeling its gonna be the same deal---smaller letterbox(larger black bars) on 2:35.1 movies when using HDMI and upconverting vs. staying with component at 480p
Is there anybody with a 42a10 or 50a10 that can confirm no difference in letterbox and black bar size using HDMI upconverted vs. component at 480p?

Buddy,
This DVD player has none of the problems the NS70H has. It is inexpensive and an excellent upconverter. In my opinion, much better than the faroudja chiip in the Oppo. The colors are even brighter than on the NS70H, at least when I compared the two. You have to go back and read this thread from the beggining. All except two people are saying that this player has corrected and improved upon all the issues the NS70H had. The only thing the same is the Zoom which still displays the 2x symbol when zoomed in. I've learned since then not to buy non-anamorphic widescreen DVD's.

Where is the best and cheapest place to get a calabration disc? I have the graininess problem and NEED to correct this because it really bothers me when I try to watch movies.

Just curious, is there a setting on a TV would correct grainyness?

Where is the best and cheapest place to get a calabration disc? I have the graininess problem and NEED to correct this because it really bothers me when I try to watch movies.

I bought the DVE calibration disk at Overstock for $15.25

Just curious, is there a setting on a TV would correct grainyness?

Perhaps the sharpness 1 and 2 settings are making the grainyness worse on some DVD's. Leave everything off except Cinema 2 as your setting with the DVD player NS75H. Now go into your TV's settings and pick standard and go back to default settings. From there, adjust your brightness level using THX optimizer (if you have it) by making sure you see 6 bars on the top of your THX logo and the seventh bar as faint as you can get it. Most TV's have settings that enhance the signal as well. In my case with the Samsung, it is Dnie (Digital Natural Image enhancer, which does various things like make blacks blacker while not affecting the colors other than black on the screen, and it also makes colors brighter) Turn all of them off if possible and one by one turn them on seeing if it makes a difference. Personally I love to have Dnie on all the time and only have Cinema 2 on as the only two settings with my TV and DVD player at the moment. I try MNR sometimes and don't see a difference.

Just finished watching King Kong (that's a loooong movie!) and the player performed like a champ. No grainyness at all and no shift. It's running at 720P HDMI>DVI to my projector with BNR/MNR off and Cinema 2 as the setting. I love this player.

Just finished watching King Kong (that's a loooong movie!) and the player performed like a champ. No grainyness at all and no shift. It's running at 720P HDMI>DVI to my projector with BNR/MNR off and Cinema 2 as the setting. I love this player.

Cinema 2 is the winner for me as well. No shift, and plays the movies perfectly on my Sammy with Dnie turned on. :)

chaarlieee -- Try Amazon.com. They have AVIA, DVE and the Sound & Vision calibration DVDs.

Also, do not forget Half.com for finding the various calibration disks... many folks sell them there.

As for settings... I use as basic of settings as possible and let my Pio 5060HD do all the other work. Why tweak your TV and your player... I have had no issues with grainyness or other stuff... who knows... just might be cause I am using the Pioneer... but I have seen others here who do not have the issues either.

Try calibrating more settings on the TV, and fewer on the player.

grayness usually has to do with poor contrast setting....or just poorly built tv...my friend had the same problem with the samsung 42 inch plasma set that has 10,000 to 1 contrast ratio..but hd and dvd's always looked bad no matter how we changed the settings....my panny plasma looks great with this player in cinema 1 mode....also ..the picture does get smaller..larger black bars...going through hdmi to tv when compared to the components..both ways the picture looks great...sharper through the hdmi..but that could be because the picture is tighter in smaller space on 2:35 movies..hard to tell difference between the two when movies are not that WS such as Toy Story1 and Toy Story 2

..also ..the picture does get smaller..larger black bars...going through hdmi to tv when compared to the components..both ways the picture looks great...sharper through the hdmi..but that could be because the picture is tighter in smaller space on 2:35 movies..hard to tell difference between the two when movies are not that WS such as Toy Story1 and Toy Story 2
With all these mixed reports of HDMI shrinking the image, I"m just going to buy this DVD player tomorrow and test it myself.

With all these mixed reports of HDMI shrinking the image, I"m just going to buy this DVD player tomorrow and test it myself.

It's goign to shrink......not many of us tried it both ways (component and hdmi), and those of us who had, see the wider black bar on top..........

Let us know.

It's goign to shrink......not many of us tried it both ways (component and hdmi), and those of us who had, see the wider black bar on top..........

Let us know.

That's a pretty bold statement. Mine doesn't shrink at all. Component or HDMI to both my Samsung DLP and my Sharp Projector. I've tried every combination possible ('cause I'm anal like that) and the picture size is accurate no matter which feed the displays are getting. It does appear to be trial and error since some folks are having issues but the bulk of the posts here report findings similar to mine.

There are so many variables (cable type, length, overscan settings etc.) that not everyone will be error free so the best bet it to buy it at a store with a good return policy and give it a looksee.

It's goign to shrink......not many of us tried it both ways (component and hdmi), and those of us who had, see the wider black bar on top..........

Let us know.


This statement is simply not true. I've tried it both ways and see no difference at all with my Samsung HLR5087W. The image is displayed perfectly at all resolutions. I just watched King Kong again last night with Cinema 2 setting on my DVPNS75H and Cinema setting on my Samsung. It looked very near HD with the best possible colors you can ask for with a DL-DVD.

I really can't do anything about the graininess. I've went through nearly every setting and I just can't get rid of the grain. Could it be the HDMI cable? I just got it from monoprice.

I'm guessing it's just my set. It's a JVC CRT. I know someone mentioned here they have the same problem with their CRT. I had grain from my last dvd player, the cheap JSI JS4127, but it wasn't nearly as bad as it is with the Sony.

Should I keep this player just for component output, or should I return it?

I really can't do anything about the graininess. I've went through nearly every setting and I just can't get rid of the grain. Could it be the HDMI cable? I just got it from monoprice.

I'm guessing it's just my set. It's a JVC CRT. I know someone mentioned here they have the same problem with their CRT. I had grain from my last dvd player, the cheap JSI JS4127, but it wasn't nearly as bad as it is with the Sony.

Should I keep this player just for component output, or should I return it?

I would definately use a player if you have one that does not have any grainyness hooked up to your TV. It is possible it could be the HDMI cable. Have you tested the NS75H with component on your TV and is the grainyness the same??

I have no problems with grainyness or shifting with the NS75H and most others do not either. It misght also be that you simply have a defective player if you are experiencing any strange issues.

I would definately use a player if you have one that does not have any grainyness hooked up to your TV. It is possible it could be the HDMI cable. Have you tested the NS75H with component on your TV and is the grainyness the same??

I have no problems with grainyness or shifting with the NS75H and most others do not either. It misght also be that you simply have a defective player if you are experiencing any strange issues.
I have a gamecube and a ps2 hooked up via component to the tv, and there is no graininess visible on either signal.

I'll buy component cables for the sony and try that out next week. I have nothing else that connects via HDMI so I can't test to see if it's a faulty HDMI cable.

chaarlieee -- Why buy cables when you can just use the ones you have for a test? It could be a defective HDMI input on your JVC CRT too, or you might not have the NS75 set correctly either.

chaarlieee -- Why buy cables when you can just use the ones you have for a test? It could be a defective HDMI input on your JVC CRT too, or you might not have the NS75 set correctly either.
I need a set of component cables anyway, and they're only a few bucks. I highly doubt I set the Sony wrong because I've gone through plenty of settings on both my tv and the ns75h, and the grain is visible through every change I've made.

I can't tell if it's the set or what. My past dvd player was fine through HDMI and only had a graininess problem in certain dvds.

Some DVDs aren't mastered very well (poor source material) and may well show "graininess".

Every dvd I've played with the ns75h shows grain, notably Batman Begins, Shrek 2, and Matrix Reloaded, which are listed in the reference dvds thread.

As I've posted before, I have the NS75H connected to a Sharp 32" LCD and like it a lot. Yesterday I had my dad get one and hooked it up to his Pioneer 4360 plasma. It looks excellent with the plasma too. So far I've seen nothing to indicate that this player is anything other than a great value. I hooked it up to the plasma via HDMI and calibrated it with Digital Video Essentials. Using Cinema 1 mode so that we get BTB and have Sharpness at 0, and MNR and BNR off.

What is your father's 4360 settings ?

Thanks,
jhl

Every dvd I've played with the ns75h shows grain, notably Batman Begins, Shrek 2, and Matrix Reloaded, which are listed in the reference dvds thread.

What's your contrast/picture setting on the tv?

when calibrating your sony ns75 with your tv/plasma/projector using avia, do you set all the settings from the dvd player and your display to 0 and/or default?

waiting for any inputs here before ill start my calibration tonight.

RL

RDD337 -- You should always start with the DVD player set to its defaults. You calibrate the display (resetting it to "0"/defaults is not necessary, but can help sometimes).

Adjusting the DVD player is only required, as a final tweak, only if the display can't be completely "dialed" in. In my case, I had to adjust sharpness on the DVD player to get rid of some EE (edge effects) that I couldn't get rid of with the display adjustments. Some DVD players require a minor tweak of their Brightness and/or Contrast settings for their best performance.

You can adjust the brightness and Contrast levels manually with the NS75H if the Cinema 1 and 2 settings are too bright. Standard is simply too dark.

One question to Charlie... Is the grainyness displayed on the Blue Sony splash screen of the DVD, or does it start only when the DVD plays?

Ok, I did a little testing on the issue of the top black bar being bigger at the top than the bottom, since I noticed it on my tv also.

I have a Sony E50A10 and testing it using my old Samsung 950 and the new Sony S75. Both output at 1080 using HDMI.

Using Avia's test patterns I found:

Overscan:
Samsung:
Top=2
Left=2
Right=2
Bottom=3

Sony:
Top=1
Left=2
Right=2
Bottom=4

Pixel Cropping:
Samsung:
Top=8
Left=15
Right=15
Bottom=15

Sony:
Top=7
Left=15
Right=15
Bottom=18


So, although my tv does seem to have a normal overscan that it greater at the bottom, the Sony S75 clearly has it's own ovescan settings that increases the issue.

I did measure the height of the visual image (using Star Wars 3) and it was almost exactly the same (1/8" difference), so the S75 does not seem to be 'squishing' the image like the S70 did.

So, take it for what it's worth. So far, I still like this one tons more than my old samsung.

Well, I may try one out on my 42a10. I guess I could always return it if I don't like. That was my only real concern(the smaller letterbox via HDMI). That and the PQ on the 70H wasn't really any better than my prog. scan panny(maybe only a tad bit better). Maybe this 75H will be a little better.

I see no shift on my PIO 5060HD, as I have said before. But that is pretty exacting down to the actualy measurement. 7/16"... you actually went and got a tape measure?

Anyway I think only one person here has been very strongly at all convinced he had the shift (Bill I think?)... no one else has.

Since hooking up my HDMI and changing whatever settings, I have major shift over component (25% at top, 75% at bottom). HDMI has no shift.

You can adjust the brightness and Contrast levels manually with the NS75H if the Cinema 1 and 2 settings are too bright. Standard is simply too dark.

One question to Charlie... Is the grainyness displayed on the Blue Sony splash screen of the DVD, or does it start only when the DVD plays?
The graininess only shows during movies. It doesn't show on the blue splash screen.

I watched Fun with Dick and Jane last night, and I'll say that the graininess isn't too obvious from sitting about 6-8 feet away. From less than 6 feet, it's very obvious. Then again, I have bad eyes and I wear glasses.

The graininess only shows during movies. It doesn't show on the blue splash screen.

I watched Fun with Dick and Jane last night, and I'll say that the graininess isn't too obvious from sitting about 6-8 feet away. From less than 6 feet, it's very obvious. Then again, I have bad eyes and I wear glasses.

This means it is not the cable an looks more to be an issue with your TV and or low quality DVD (low bitrate).

Spent the better part of two hours with the AVIA disc, trying to adjust things to get rid of the graininess I was seeing in King Kong. I finally gave up, the graininess is still there in any seen with fog or shadows. I calibrated on HDMI and component. At least AVIA let me greatly hone in on the color and tint - the colors really look nice. Others don't seem to have a problem with this DVD. I will try a few other movies and report back.

I just got my NS75H today :D from CC (on-line Easter Sale price, store pick-up). I also opted for the 3-year CC Protection Plan (I normally don’t do that), but only because it is a new design and it gives me a full 30-day, unconditional, return guarantee plus they’ll take care of any repairs for 3 years – for the price of 2 DVDs, I felt it was worth it.

Review of Manual:

Some specs (per the owners manual) that haven’t been mentioned (which are important to some potential owners) are: Region 1, NTSC only (US versions); it will play DVD-R/RW, DVD+R/RW DVD+R DL disks; it will play MP3 files on CDs and DVDs; it may not play some double sided DVDs (with non-standard audio on the second side); it will play JPEG files on Data-CDs and Data-DVDs and Kodak Picture CD format; but it will not play PHOTO CDs or the HD layer on SACDs. The HDMI output is selectable (manual, page 63) between YcbCr and RGB colorspace, (exception is if its connected to a DVI input, the output will be RGB only, regardless of the setting). If the HDMI output is used, the composite or S-Video signals (which are still available) will be vertically stretched. There is also a number of options in the “Custom Settings”, including a 3 DRC (Dynamic Range Control, page 66) settings: Standard, TV mode (volume compression = AGC), and “Wide Range” (expansion of the dynamic range, for audio that’s compressed on the DVD?).

The bottom line, for me, is that it says it will play anything I plan to throw at it (all my DVDs are Region 1, Region Free, or burned DVD-R and DVD+R DL). With my DVD collection, that may take me a year to find out – LOL. Since my HDMI projector is out of commission right now (MT700 with a dead lamp), I won’t be able to check that function out for a while (hence the CC Prot. Plan purchase). I may take it with me next week to check it out on my old L300U (DVI – non-HDCP) at the son-in-law’s house (but it may not work, because the manual says it shouldn’t).

On the Control Panel (pressing the “Display” Button), it has Sharpness control, BNR (block noise reduction = macroblock?), MNR (= mosquito noise reduction), and A/V Sync (“not effective” for the digital audio outputs, pages 49 & 67). That is also where you can adjust picture display intervals, wipe effects, and JPEG or MP3 data types.

Another feature is that the NS75H will store the Stop Point on up to 6 different DVDs, and will allow you to resume play on those DVDs. The Multi-Disc Resume must be set for this feature to work. It will not work for burned DVDs, if the disc is ejected (at least that’s what it says). There are also some other restrictions too.

The NS75H also has the capability of playing both DD and DTS (2 modes) from DVDs. These can be alternately selected with the “Audio” button, but both have to be enabled in the Control Menu. This assumes, of course, that your receiver (or equivalent) has the capability of decoding both. It also has a virtual surround mode (in several flavors, including an interesting 5 surround channel pairs = a virtual 12.1 channel surround sound system) capability over TV or stereo speakers (using the L/R audio outputs).

Chaarlieee – On page 48 of the manual, it says that you should turn OFF the BNR if your picture is “fuzzy” or blurry. Also, if you are connecting the HDMI output to a DVI input on your display, the image may not look good (manual, page 63) because the RGB mode is forced (it doesn’t make sense to me but the manual says the picture could be “distorted”).

Tigershark -- The same comments apply to your situation. There are some other discussions in the manual about settings that can contribute to graininess (and they apply to all outputs). It also depends on the DVD transfer. I downloaded the manual from the Sony web site (it's easier to read on my computer).

Next Step, Use it:

Now I've got to hook it up and see what it actually does.

What is your father's 4360 settings ?

Thanks,
jhl
Misplaced what I wrote down, so here's from memory:

Contrast 26
Brightness +3
Color -3
Tint 0
Sharpness -1

Color Temp Mid
Both NR settings - Low
PureCinema - Standard(?)
CTI- Off

Using Cinema 1 on the NS75. BNR and MNR off.

I just got my NS75H today :D from CC (on-line Easter Sale price, store pick-up). I also opted for the 3-year CC Protection Plan (I normally don’t do that), but only because it is a new design and it gives me a full 30-day, unconditional, return guarantee plus they’ll take care of any repairs for 3 years – for the price of 2 DVDs, I felt it was worth it.

Review of Manual:

Some specs (per the owners manual) that haven’t been mentioned (which are important to some potential owners) are: Region 1, NTSC only (US versions); it will play DVD-R/RW, DVD+R/RW DVD+R DL disks; it will play MP3 files on CDs and DVDs; it may not play some double sided DVDs (with non-standard audio on the second side); it will play JPEG files on Data-CDs and Data-DVDs and Kodak Picture CD format; but it will not play PHOTO CDs or the HD layer on SACDs. The HDMI output is selectable (manual, page 63) between YcbCr and RGB colorspace, (exception is if its connected to a DVI input, the output will be RGB only, regardless of the setting). If the HDMI output is used, the composite or S-Video signals (which are still available) will be vertically stretched. There is also a number of options in the “Custom Settings”, including a 3 DRC (Dynamic Range Control, page 66) settings: Standard, TV mode (volume compression = AGC), and “Wide Range” (expansion of the dynamic range, for audio that’s compressed on the DVD?).

The bottom line, for me, is that it says it will play anything I plan to throw at it (all my DVDs are Region 1, Region Free, or burned DVD-R and DVD+R DL). With my DVD collection, that may take me a year to find out – LOL. Since my HDMI projector is out of commission right now (MT700 with a dead lamp), I won’t be able to check that function out for a while (hence the CC Prot. Plan purchase). I may take it with me next week to check it out on my old L300U (DVI – non-HDCP) at the son-in-law’s house (but it may not work, because the manual says it shouldn’t).

On the Control Panel (pressing the “Display” Button), it has Sharpness control, BNR (block noise reduction = macroblock?), MNR (= mosquito noise reduction), and A/V Sync (“not effective” for the digital audio outputs, pages 49 & 67). That is also where you can adjust picture display intervals, wipe effects, and JPEG or MP3 data types.

Another feature is that the NS75H will store the Stop Point on up to 6 different DVDs, and will allow you to resume play on those DVDs. The Multi-Disc Resume must be set for this feature to work. It will not work for burned DVDs, if the disc is ejected (at least that’s what it says). There are also some other restrictions too.

The NS75H also has the capability of playing both DD and DTS (2 modes) from DVDs. These can be alternately selected with the “Audio” button, but both have to be enabled in the Control Menu. This assumes, of course, that your receiver (or equivalent) has the capability of decoding both. It also has a virtual surround mode (in several flavors, including an interesting 5 surround channel pairs = a virtual 12.1 channel surround sound system) capability over TV or stereo speakers (using the L/R audio outputs).

Chaarlieee – On page 48 of the manual, it says that you should turn OFF the BNR if your picture is “fuzzy” or blurry. Also, if you are connecting the HDMI output to a DVI input on your display, the image may not look good (manual, page 63) because the RGB mode is forced (it doesn’t make sense to me but the manual says the picture could be “distorted”).

Tigershark -- The same comments apply to your situation. There are some other discussions in the manual about settings that can contribute to graininess (and they apply to all outputs). It also depends on the DVD transfer. I downloaded the manual from the Sony web site (it's easier to read on my computer).

Next Step, Use it:

Now I've got to hook it up and see what it actually does.
All the filters are turned off on my sony.

I know that this has been discussed, and I've done a search, but it's still not clear to me.

The Sony site says that upconversion to to 640p or to 1080i is only through HDMI. Is that accurate? From the posts on this thread, it seems that it's also possible through component.

No! The HDMI output upconverts to 480p (deinterlace only), 720p and 1080i. The component connections only output 480i and 480p. The composite and S-Video outputs are 480i only. This is in accordance with the HDMI/DVI specifications, which prohibit up-conversion over anything but the digital connections (for copy protection reasons -- Hollywood = 1, enthusiasts = 0).

BTW, there is no format = 640p. If you're confused, go to the Sony web site (click here (http://esupport.sony.com/US/perl/model-documents.pl?mdl=DVPNS75H&LOC=3)) and download the manual.

chaarlieee -- Then you've got me. Either you have a display problem (doubtfull) or a bad NS75H (I believe you had already ruled out the cables, IIRC).

Thanks, CT-

Since my Zenith upscaling dvd player went out, I've been trying to find another one that does upscaling on component and that can be hacked for universal (as i have also movies in Italian).


Oh, well.... this might not be easy.

--Steven

There are some (made in China) like the Momitsu and one or two others (check the other threads) that can be hacked. Unfortunately, they also have other (video) problems, IIRC. It's not Region Free either and won't do PAL or SECAM.

When I get it hooked up tonight, I'll have a better idea of how good it is using component connections (that's all my backup PJ has, in addition to component, S-Video and HD-15 VGA).

Thanks, Claus

Misplaced what I wrote down, so here's from memory:

Contrast 26
Brightness +3
Color -3
Tint 0
Sharpness -1

Color Temp Mid
Both NR settings - Low
PureCinema - Standard(?)
CTI- Off

Using Cinema 1 on the NS75. BNR and MNR off.

Thanks again,

jhl

...My initial impressions of the NS75 are consistent with mypepper's comments: it works OK, but no WOW factor at any resolution setting I've tried using HDMI. Using component is not an option in my case, due to the wiring conduit limitations (it's packed) in my home entertainment center. In fact, I'm using this upconverting player just so that I can benefit from the relatively small mass size of an HDMI cable compared to using component plus audio cables. Perhaps I would find more WOW in the PQ if I were to use component, but theoretically HDMI should be a little better...so I've heard. This player is producing a clear, jitter-free image, but I believe the DVD PQ was much better on my old Sony 36" XBR CRT with a simple JVC DVD player outputting over S-Video...

An update of my earlier review is appropriate: After watching quite a few DVD movies over the past 2 weeks I'm pleased to report that my initial impressions of the NS75H have risen significantly. No matter what I've thrown at this player, it performs superbly with accurate color and excellent image detail and clarity, with no HDMI handshake issues.
This Sony upconverter is a very solid performer -- it's a keeper for me.

I didn't get a chance to run it through my PJ last night. I may have to delay running it for a day or 2, due to other commitments.

An Update: The NS75H also does not have 5.1 channel analog outputs (only L/R strero). This doesn't bother me, since I use the Digital Coax output, but it is a "gotcha" for some people (as noted on the new Panasonic S52 DVD player thread).

I watched Fun With Dick and Jane yesterday and found something that surprises me. 1080i seems to produce a more solid, satisfying picture than 720P. My PJ is only a 576P native machine and the NS70H had a superb 720P picture but 1080i produced a jittery image. When I got the 75H I immediately threw it into 720P and calibrated from there. I got to playing around with it over the weekend and on this model 1080i produces a very clear and stable image, much better than the 70H did.

When I put the player on HDMI "Auto" mode it defaults to 1080i (PJ reports 540P) so perhaps the HDMI handshake believes that that is a more appropriate setting.

Claus- just got a new receiver and does the 75 work in a 7.1 system-- in other words if I have verything hooked up via HDMI to my panny projector will I have sound thru all speakers?

I've played a lot of movies on my player and have tried to convince myself I'm not seeing what I'm seeing but I've given up:

HDMI->1080I to Panny 50X50U (video options defaulted):
Most noticable when playing childrens animated movies, there are distinct images that causes a "venetian blind" effect (horizontally) in localized areas of the screen. This only happens when played at near or full speed; it does not occur when single stepping. It's as if someone overlayed a box of a few darker horizontal lines over a part of the screen. It's not really noticable during films (due to the screen being busy), but in cartoons/animation it is easy to see.

I have yet to try 720P or 480P via HDMI. This does not occur when played off the PC DVD drive.

I'll try to take a film and capture a frame this evening.

Chaarlieee – On page 48 of the manual, it says that you should turn OFF the BNR if your picture is “fuzzy” or blurry. Also, if you are connecting the HDMI output to a DVI input on your display, the image may not look good (manual, page 63) because the RGB mode is forced (it doesn’t make sense to me but the manual says the picture could be “distorted”).

Tigershark -- The same comments apply to your situation. There are some other discussions in the manual about settings that can contribute to graininess (and they apply to all outputs). It also depends on the DVD transfer. I downloaded the manual from the Sony web site (it's easier to read on my computer).


I too have everything turned off (BNR, MNR), with the output set to Cinema 2. I tried Standard as well, but that didn't help so I went with some of the advice here to go with Cinema 2 to get BTB. The discs I was testing with (Return of the King, King Kong) were supposed to be good transfers. I have calibrated with AVIA without much success (although the colors look much better). I will continue to try other movies and report back.

artimp -- You have to connect the digital sound output (either Coax or Optical) to your Receiver (or Pre-Pro) and turn the Digital Audio to "ON", see step 10 on page 24 of the NS75H manual. Follow the other steps to configure your digital outputs to what your Receiver can handle. If 7.1 is encoded on the DVD, then you will get it (most newer DVDs give you a choice of DTS or Dolby Digital and may only be 5.1. If you have a 7.1 receiver, then it should create the extra rear channels, if it's set up to do so.

Grimdeath -- Those DVDs may not be mastered correctly, either. You definitely should try both 720p and 480p, since it could also be a scaling problem (to 1080i). You may also get better results using 480i over the component connections (or even S-Video, 480i) for those DVDs. Animation DVDs can have some serious cadence ("pull-down") problems too (depends on how the DVD was mastered).

Tigershark -- You should also try Cinema 1. That may work better for your display. The manual is a little unclear about the differences between Cinema 1 and Cinema 2. You also need to compare 480p, 720p, and 1080i (I don't remember what you did & don't have time to look), to see which looks best. Remember, each combination really needs to be re-calibrated.

TV: W3706MC
DVD Player: DVP-NS70H

Problem:
Couldn't get sound out of the player using HDMI connection.
Tried all the settings with Sony's rep on the phone.
Cable and TV ports were ok.

Solution:
Returned the DVD player to the dealer.

Anybody has any idea what the problem could be?
If I get the NS75H, do you think it helps?

My review.

I'm no expert, and have my 1st projector (PE7700) connected to a DVP-NS75H player thru HDMI, and Comcast HD thru component. I can easily say that the Sony 75 is nowhere close to the HD quality I see with the Comcast thru component. I get absolutely no WOW factor at all. I tried every setting imaginable with the player, and the image just looks "clouded". Nothing is vibrant at all. I can switch back and forth between the HDMI and the component outputs viewing the DVD player on HDMI and the HD signal on component, and the Sony doesn't come close. I then tried hooking up the DVD player with the component, and it looked very good at 480p, but the picture was about 1/3 the size of my 120" screen. I am going to take this player back, and try the Panny S52.

Does anyone else see a "clouded", just not clear image via projector?

wizdell -- It sounds like you might have had a defective NS70. The NS75H is a better player, but if your TV doesn't have the HDMI sound turned on, then you won't get any sound either (unless you also have a digital or analog sound cable attatched and activated). Your TV might mave a problem too, if it auto selects sound, and it's priorities aren't set correctly (or it's HDMI connection is defective).

walstadm -- See Post # 618, above (by Itsdon). Some PE7700's had bad HDMI inputs, or it could be a defective NS75H. Some DVDs aren't very good either. You also have to calibrate the PE7700 with the DVD player and a calibration DVD like AVIA, Sound & Vision, or DVE. Typical HDTV shows have a high level of color saturation too (which will make DVDs look dull in comparison). If that's the case, the S52 won't look any better.

I haven't fired mine up yet. However, the upconverted DVD output will never look as good as a good HDTV signal, since the original source is only 720 x 480 on the DVD (a true HDTV signal will be either 1280 x 720p or 1920 x 1080i). If you're expecting HDTV quality from a non-HDTV source, you will always be disappointed.

Grimdeath -- Those DVDs may not be mastered correctly, either. You definitely should try both 720p and 480p, since it could also be a scaling problem (to 1080i). You may also get better results using 480i over the component connections (or even S-Video, 480i) for those DVDs. Animation DVDs can have some serious cadence ("pull-down") problems too (depends on how the DVD was mastered).


I've tried every mode in HDMI (480P, 720P, 1080I) with and without 4:3->16:9 stretch and the aberations are present in each mode. It's 100% repeatable on certain parts of the film which tells me it's the Sony. I don't have the same issue over component from the PC DVD; I don't want to rip everything apart to try the Sony via component.

Tigershark -- You should also try Cinema 1. That may work better for your display. The manual is a little unclear about the differences between Cinema 1 and Cinema 2. You also need to compare 480p, 720p, and 1080i (I don't remember what you did & don't have time to look), to see which looks best. Remember, each combination really needs to be re-calibrated.


Thanks for the quick response. I have tried Standard, Cinema 1 and Cinema 2 - really couldn't tell a difference. I have also tried 480p, 720p, and 1080i over HDMI and 480p over component. No real difference.

I have read conflicting reports in the DVD forum regarding the transfer quality of the King Kong disc. I will continue to do more testing with other discs (Fifth Element SuperBit tonight).

Grimdeath -- Have you tried anything other than the anim DVDs? Also, I'm confused by your "full speed" comment. If you hit "play" then you're running at normal speed. If you're talking about a fast forward speed, then you will never get a decent (= good) picture because the player doesn't have the time to decode the cadence properly.

Claus can't I just run HDMI from Sony 75 to my pioneer 74 receiver and the 74 to the panny via HDMI--- HDMI straight thru???WHy do I need optical cable connection?

Manuals for NS75 and NC85 are now on Sony web site.
NS75: http://www.docs.sony.com/release/DVPNS75H.pdf
NC85: http://www.docs.sony.com/release/DVPNC85H.pdf

Claus can't I just run HDMI from Sony 75 to my pioneer 74 receiver and the 74 to the panny via HDMI--- HDMI straight thru???WHy do I need optical cable connection?

If you're using a HDMI-compatible receiver, you don't.

You connect one HDMI cable from the DVD player to the receiver, and another from the receiver to the TV. (Then you'll want to turn off the TV's speakers or set its volume to zero.)

That's it - you don't need optical or coaxial or anything else.

What is the best HDMI compatible reciever on the market?

wizdell -- It sounds like you might have had a defective NS70. The NS75H is a better player, but if your TV doesn't have the HDMI sound turned on, then you won't get any sound either (unless you also have a digital or analog sound cable attatched and activated). Your TV might mave a problem too, if it auto selects sound, and it's priorities aren't set correctly (or it's HDMI connection is defective).

walstadm -- See Post # 618, above (by Itsdon). Some PE7700's had bad HDMI inputs, or it could be a defective NS75H. Some DVDs aren't very good either. You also have to calibrate the PE7700 with the DVD player and a calibration DVD like AVIA, Sound & Vision, or DVE. Typical HDTV shows have a high level of color saturation too (which will make DVDs look dull in comparison). If that's the case, the S52 won't look any better.

I haven't fired mine up yet. However, the upconverted DVD output will never look as good as a good HDTV signal, since the original source is only 720 x 480 on the DVD (a true HDTV signal will be either 1280 x 720p or 1920 x 1080i). If you're expecting HDTV quality from a non-HDTV source, you will always be disappointed.

Well, I'm picking up a DVI-to-HDMI adapter today for my Comcast box so I can get a true test of the HDMI cable/port. If the picture turns out lousy, I'll pick up another HDMI cable and see if that will solve the problem. I will also connect my PC (with a DVI output on the video card) to HDMI and test out the DVD picture. I'm also picking up a Samsung HD860, and the new Toshiba HD-DVD player and will test those out in comparison to the NS75H (won't return it yet). I'll post all my findings.

I am not having any video problems with my panny 42px50u....as posted by someone with the 50 inch set..same model..all looks outstanding via both components and hdmi.....just the obvious difference in the slightly smaller picture via the hdmi in 2:35 movies.......no upconversion player will ever give the quality of true HDTV....but this player via whichever out puts you use is outstanding..tried a few more movies..Battle Star Gallactica Season 1....which looked fantastic..and Ice Age which was jaw dropping to say the least...next big test will be Sin City...this is one of my favorite test movies which shows just how good the black levels are on your tv...it sold me on buying the panny plasma.....it made swiss cheese out of the poor Samsung 42hpr52.....don't buy one of those even if you see these great close out sales..it is the pits of plasma tv's...as far as the guy using a front projector..I have the infocus 4805....I have not set it up to it to try it out..but via the hdmi is a moot point since it disables most of the picture adjusting menus as well as the faroudja dcdi chip in the projector.. I have the samsung upconversion which also has a faroudja dcdi chip in it ...but when connecting through the dvdi port....you have very limited adjustments enabled menu to fix picture quality ...so it works best in interlaced mode..which then allows setting video quality via the projector's entire menu....however this dvdplayer has a lot of setup menus....so I would use the components to the projector and reset the user menu's on dvd to get the best picture....

So Gene9p, you do notice the slightly smaller picture due to the 'slight' increase bar size on 2.35 movies? I have the same Panny plasma as you and I also tried playing Madagascar (which previously filled up the entire screen over component (via my older JVC player)) and with this player I have a slight 1/3" black bar on the top but nowhere else? Have you had any issues like this?

I am about to buy an upscaling DVD player and I am trying to decide between this and the Oppo. From what I have seen here, the pq isn't too far off and, at the very least, does not have the MB problem. Plus, it's a good bit cheaper and available locally.

However, that said, I have an H77 that was calibrated and upgraded by a forum member (Tom) and an Oppo was used to calibrate the DVI input.

I don't how much of the calibration on that input would be 'wasted' or different if I used the Sony instead of the Oppo or how the calibrated H77 deals with MB.

Anyone have any suggestions on my particular situation ? Feel free to use PM or forum, as appropriate. Thanks in advance !

The NS70H is still on the FutureShop website.

The NS75H is on SonyStyle.ca website now.

I am about to buy an upscaling DVD player and I am trying to decide between this and the Oppo. From what I have seen here, the pq isn't too far off and, at the very least, does not have the MB problem. Plus, it's a good bit cheaper and available locally.

However, that said, I have an H77 that was calibrated and upgraded by a forum member (Tom) and an Oppo was used to calibrate the DVI input.

I don't how much of the calibration on that input would be 'wasted' or different if I used the Sony instead of the Oppo or how the calibrated H77 deals with MB.

Anyone have any suggestions on my particular situation ? Feel free to use PM or forum, as appropriate. Thanks in advance !

Calibrating My Samsung with the DVPNS75H was fairly easy. I just picked Cinema 2 on the DVD player, and ran the THX optimizer using Star Wars ANH and lowered the brightness untill I could bairly see the seventh bar on top of the THX logo. I didn't mess with the colors since they all seemed to be perfect on standard.

This seems like a silly question, but I thought I'd ask. I've got a 85H connected to my 50A10 via component connections, and everything is fine. I was just wondering if the blue Sony screen should be in widescreen or not. I've never seen it in anything other than 4:3 mode. All of my media plays fine.

This seems like a silly question, but I thought I'd ask. I've got a 85H connected to my 50A10 via component connections, and everything is fine. I was just wondering if the blue Sony screen should be in widescreen or not. I've never seen it in anything other than 4:3 mode. All of my media plays fine.

At least for the 75:
It follows however you have the player set to handle 4:3 media - if you have the menu setting for 4x3 set to stretch - it will stretch the Sony Screen.
If you have it set to "pillarbox" (like me), then the Sony screen will have black bars on the left and right

Grimdeath -- Have you tried anything other than the anim DVDs? Also, I'm confused by your "full speed" comment. If you hit "play" then you're running at normal speed. If you're talking about a fast forward speed, then you will never get a decent (= good) picture because the player doesn't have the time to decode the cadence properly.

I can hardly notice this problem when watching movies. What I meant was I can see the issue running at half speed, etc, also.

Grimdeath -- Playing a DVD at anything but normal speed will not give you a perfect picture on any of the new DVD players, and is very unusual even on older players. What I don't understand is why you think they should?

kel -- Anytime you change a component in the video chain (DVD Player, Cable Box, Display, etc.) you will have to recalibrate. Each component will have a different effect on the picture being displayed. When you calibrate, you are calibrating the whole loop from the DVD to the picture.

------ Review Continued ------
I finally had a chance to run my NS75H, component connections, to my backup PJ (a Mits HC3 LCD, 960 x 540, 106" diagonal screen). I calibrated the setup with the GetGray calibration disc. My old player is the Panasonic DVD-RP91, which was "king of the hill" at the time I bought it, component connections are the best it has. I found that the Brightness and Contrast had to be changed considerably (-8 to +5 and +30 to -6, respectively), but the Color & Tint were right on (no change). All the enhancements were turned Off (Sharpness, DNR, MNR), and I got the best black levels (and correct white levels) using Cinema 1. Cinema 2 crushed blacks and expanded the white levels excessively (with my PJ, YMMV). I found that I had about a 2% overscan (not adjustable on the HC3), so if there is an alignment problem less than 2%, I wouldn't see it. I did find that the NS75H - HC3 combination did not respond correctly to the 4:3 flags on the GetGray caldisc (I suspect this is more of a HC3 problem, since it doesn't correctly respond to 4:3 formats from my D* STB receiver either - in the "Auto" AR mode, I have to manually select the aspect ratio). I then ran the introduction on the DVE DVD. The 16:9 pictures were excellent and, at least, as good as they were from my RP91 with the same cabling. The one fault that I did find was that the NS75H exhibited excessive EE (edge enhancement), the control was set to Off. Using the "1" or "2" settings didn't help (note: I forgot to try the Sharpness control on the HC3, but it may have been not accessable for the component input - I'll have to check again tonight). This EE was not really apparent during the following testing.

After calibration, I ran the HQV "torture test" DVD and it gave excellent results -- much better that the (AVS members) reported results for the Panasonic S97 (score = 75 to 80) & the Oppo 971H (score = 65 to 75). Those results were for the HDMI/DVI outputs of those players. I got a score of about 110 for my HS75H at 480p (102 @ 480i) over the component connections (the Panasonic XP50 was the closest at a score of 95 over component connections). That just blew me away; I was not expecting that it would be that much better than my old (highly rated) Panasonic RP91 (also component connected, HQV score = 55 to 60, IIRC). The only differences I found between 480i and 480p was that the Jaggies tests and the 3:2 Pull-Down Detection test were better using the 480p setting.

NOTE: For those of you not familiar with the HQV DVD, it's made by Silicon Optix and was designed so that even video equipment made with their Teranex processor chips have a hard time passing all of the tests. The perfect score is 130, so 110 is excellent for the NS75H, or any DVD player.

I followed these tests with two "made for TV" DVD videos (to appease my S.O.). These were recorded in a 720 x 480 format (1.5:1 - they were originally made for PAL viewing) and were correctly formatted on my PJ (set to 16:9 - Auto mode). One of these had many quite "dark" scenes - lots of night and dark room shots. It looked like I need to raise the Brightness (black level) a little. I may need to recalibrate (and look more at the Cinema 2 mode). Overall, however, these movies had excellent picture quality.

I also need to look at some of my "reference" movies to make a conclusion, but so far so good. It looks like it may be a "keeper", unless the HDMI output turns out to be a real dud.

Grimdeath -- Playing a DVD at anything but normal speed will not give you a perfect picture on any of the new DVD players, and is very unusual even on older players. What I don't understand is why you think they should?


Let me put it this way; whether I'm at "play" speed or lower, I still get the same artifacting in certain scenes; however, pause and step by step do not result in the artifacting.

Grimdeath -- Playing a DVD at anything but normal speed will not give you a perfect picture on any of the new DVD players, and is very unusual even on older players. What I don't understand is why you think they should?

kel -- Anytime you change a component in the video chain (DVD Player, Cable Box, Display, etc.) you will have to recalibrate. Each component will have a different effect on the picture being displayed. When you calibrate, you are calibrating the whole loop from the DVD to the picture.

------ Review Continued ------
I finally had a chance to run my NS75H, component connections, to my backup PJ (a Mits HC3 LCD, 960 x 540, 106" diagonal screen). I calibrated the setup with the GetGray calibration disc. My old player is the Panasonic DVD-RP91, which was "king of the hill" at the time I bought it, component connections are the best it has. I found that the Brightness and Contrast had to be changed considerably (-8 to +5 and +30 to -6, respectively), but the Color & Tint were right on (no change). All the enhancements were turned Off (Sharpness, DNR, MNR), and I got the best black levels (and correct white levels) using Cinema 1. Cinema 2 crushed blacks and expanded the white levels excessively (with my PJ, YMMV). I found that I had about a 2% overscan (not adjustable on the HC3), so if there is an alignment problem less than 2%, I wouldn't see it. I did find that the NS75H - HC3 combination did not respond correctly to the 4:3 flags on the GetGray caldisc (I suspect this is more of a HC3 problem, since it doesn't correctly respond to 4:3 formats from my D* STB receiver either - in the "Auto" AR mode, I have to manually select the aspect ratio). I then ran the introduction on the DVE DVD. The 16:9 pictures were excellent and, at least, as good as they were from my RP91 with the same cabling. The one fault that I did find was that the NS75H exhibited excessive EE (edge enhancement), the control was set to Off. Using the "1" or "2" settings didn't help (note: I forgot to try the Sharpness control on the HC3, but it may have been not accessable for the component input - I'll have to check again tonight). This EE was not really apparent during the following testing.

After calibration, I ran the HQV "torture test" DVD and it gave excellent results -- much better that the (AVS members) reported results for the Panasonic S97 (score = 75 to 80) & the Oppo 971H (score = 65 to 75). Those results were for the HDMI/DVI outputs of those players. I got a score of about 110 for my HS75H at 480p (102 @ 480i) over the component connections (the Panasonic XP50 was the closest at a score of 95 over component connections). That just blew me away; I was not expecting that it would be that much better than my old (highly rated) Panasonic RP91 (also component connected, HQV score = 55 to 60, IIRC). The only differences I found between 480i and 480p was that the Jaggies tests and the 3:2 Pull-Down Detection test were better using the 480p setting.

NOTE: For those of you not familiar with the HQV DVD, it's made by Silicon Optix and was designed so that even video equipment made with their Teranex processor chips have a hard time passing all of the tests. The perfect score is 130, so 110 is excellent for the NS75H, or any DVD player.

I followed these tests with two "made for TV" DVD videos (to appease my S.O.). These were recorded in a 720 x 480 format (1.5:1 - they were originally made for PAL viewing) and were correctly formatted on my PJ (set to 16:9 - Auto mode). One of these had many quite "dark" scenes - lots of night and dark room shots. It looked like I need to raise the Brightness (black level) a little. I may need to recalibrate (and look more at the Cinema 2 mode). Overall, however, these movies had excellent picture quality.

I also need to look at some of my "reference" movies to make a conclusion, but so far so good. It looks like it may be a "keeper", unless the HDMI output turns out to be a real dud.

Great review! I would look more into Cinema 2 though. I found that both my blacks and whites were better after calibration than I could achieve with Cinema 1. Color and tint were unaffected (which seems odd) between the two but overall I've stuck with Cimena 2 and have been very pleased. As for HDMI, I ran component cables and my HDMI>DVI simultaneously to my projector and switched between the two hundreds of times during several movies and came to some interesting conclusions. 480P (component) had a slightly brighter overall picture with colors being just a tad more vibrant but the picture as a whole seemed ever so slightly 'cloudy', just not sharp. Switching back to HDMI brought the picture back to it's razor sharp self and with the Cinema 2 gamma enhancements turned on I was able to calibrate correctly.

I know I'm only getting RGB output because of the HDMI>DVI conversion so perhaps those folks running straight HDMI>HDMI won't need the Cinema 2 boost. It would be interesting to hear from folks who have done this through to their projector.

Just got the NC85H changer and ran a bunch of dvds through it. Also have the prior NC80V (component) model. NC85 provides a nicer, clearer, sharper picture with less artifacts and noise (especially mosquito noise or haloing around objects). Out of box, picture is a little dark and lacking in shadow detail but not as bad as NC80 which needed brightness increased a few clicks. Im trying to decide between Cinema 1 and 2. Both look good and improve shadow detail. Would be nice if the NC85 had a Gamma setting like Panny S97.

NC85 is just as slow to load as NC80 was. NC85 remote lost the surround, shuffle and repeat buttons over NC80. NC80 could remember 40 discs but NC85 has reduced this to only 6 which is inadequate for a 5-DVD changer!

Also compared NC85 with Panny S97 and as expected the NC85 does not exhibit MBe. NC85 stacks up favorably with the PQ of the S97 (MBe aside).

Compared with S97 and NC80, NC85 shows no shifting or squeezing of picture over HDMI.

I experienced a little lip synch but this seems to only occur after going in the Display menus to fiddle with picture, audio, etc settings and is usually correctable by pressing stop then play.

I found that setting BNR (block noise reduction) setting ON produced artifacts like the MBe for the Panny S97. This is the opposite to what I would have expected. So this setting stays off. I saw no benefit to using MNR (mosquito noise reduction) or Sharpness so they'll probably stay off also. Perhaps these settings are really only applicable when using 480i/480p over component rather than 720p/1080i over HDMI.

Can someone tell me what the factory setting for av sync (ohms) is? It's the last option below picture mode (cinema 1), sharpness, and BNR and MNR filters. I accidently changed it and have it at 2 ohms now.

The player looks much better now that I've messed around with it more. The grain is still there, but it doesn't bother me nearly as much as it was before. Looks like a keeper for me.

Can someone tell me what the factory setting for av sync (ohms) is? It's the last option below picture mode (cinema 1), sharpness, and BNR and MNR filters. I accidently changed it and have it at 2 ohms now.

The player looks much better now that I've messed around with it more. The grain is still there, but it doesn't bother me nearly as much as it was before. Looks like a keeper for me.This is in ms (milliseconds)? Default is zero. You typically won't notice any effect until you are up in the 25-50ms range or higher, assuming you are even experiencing lip synch delays with DVDs and your display.

This is in ms (milliseconds)? Default is zero. You typically won't notice any effect until you are up in the 25-50ms range or higher, assuming you are even experiencing lip synch delays with DVDs and your display.
You're looking at the wrong setting.

So here's my update. I first hooked up my Comcast HD box via HDMI with the HDMI cable that comes with the Toshiba HD-DVD to verify my HDMI port on the PE7700 and the Monoprice HDMI cable were good. I next hooked up the Samsung DVD-HD860 via HDMI and put in the DVD I've been using for my testing, SW Ep. III, and it looked just slightly worse than the Sony, but not much different. Then something clicked in my head to run through the THX optimizer since I don't have Avia or DVE yet, and I was amazed by the difference. The color was better, the picture was crisper, and I was pleased. Then I pulled the Sony back out of the box, again connected it via HDMI, reran thru the THX optimizer (only a slight increase in tint was made), started the movie and saw a much better picture on the Sony. I'm sure I was just expecting too much from an upconversion, but I was happy and decided that the Samsung was definitely going back. Then I pulled out the Toshiba HD-DVD player. It has a very sleek remote, with and a nice feature where you can change from 480i thru 1080i at just a push of the button, and don't have to stop the movie to do so. 480 thru the HDMI filled the entire screen even on Real mode of the PE7700. Again, no changes were needed with the THX optimizer. I noticed a slight more detail with the upconverted image with the Toshiba, but not enough to justify $370. So I will be keeping the Sony DVP-NS75H, and once I get Avia/DVE to run through, I will be a happy viewer. And I will post pics I took showing the Sony player vs. the Toshiba HD-DVD tonight.

chaarlieee -- Sorry, you did say AV Sync, which is measured in milliseconds, not Ohms. The manual shows what looks like 0ms, but it's actually zero milliseconds (they didn't put a space between the number "0" and the abbreviation "ms"). Resistance is measured in Ohms (named after Mr. Ohm, who defined it). You only adjust this if there is a delay between the sound (people speaking) and the picture (othewise known as Lip Sync). This delay is caused by the time necessary to process the video (de-interlacing and scaling) being greater than that needed to decode the sound. disgruntled1 is correct.

Itsdon -- Thanks. I'm going to have to try Cinema 2 and do some more playing around with the calibration. I also need to find out what effects the MBR and MNR have on the signal (I have a pretty good idea, for MBR, from disgruntled1's experience). I need to see if I can get rid of the EE (tonight I found that my PJs sharpness control doesn't apply for its component input).

If the central part (20% to 80% of the gray scale) is basically unchanged, then there probably won't be much of an effect on the Color & Tint settings when switching betwen Cinema 1 & 2.

EDIT: One thing I didn't mention is that I found the remote is very sensitive to button presses. I kept getting double entries because I found I was pressing the buttons too hard.

The NS75H is on SonyStyle.ca website now.


Finally!! Good to hear, now hopefully BestBuy or Futureshop (I know same thing), will get some stock before 2007!! :p

MSRP of $199 really sucks IMO. With our dollar the way it is now, it should be more like $149 - 159.

I wonder when they will put up the NC85H, probably never.... Since us poor Canadian's can't handle more then 1 or 2 choices from any vendor... :(


Thanks for the Update adamwod. :)

Sony manual says to use Cinema 1 or Cinema 2 for movies, so I'd like to hear more testing between the two as well. I'm currently using HDMI-DVI.

ok I can't see the dvd player screen right now but in the audio area there is a function that specifies 48hz or 96 hz-- I messed with it and now don't know what is correct??? help? :-)

chaarlieee -- Sorry, you did say AV Sync, which is measured in milliseconds, not Ohms. The manual shows what looks like 0ms, but it's actually zero milliseconds (they didn't put a space between the number "0" and the abbreviation "ms"). Resistance is measured in Ohms (named after Mr. Ohm, who defined it). You only adjust this if there is a delay between the sound (people speaking) and the picture (othewise known as Lip Sync). This delay is caused by the time necessary to process the video (de-interlacing and scaling) being greater than that needed to decode the sound. disgruntled1 is correct.

Itsdon -- Thanks. I'm going to have to try Cinema 2 and do some more playing around with the calibration. I also need to find out what effects the MBR and MNR have on the signal (I have a pretty good idea, for MBR, from disgruntled1's experience). I need to see if I can get rid of the EE (tonight I found that my PJs sharpness control doesn't apply for its component input).

If the central part (20% to 80% of the gray scale) is basically unchanged, then there probably won't be much of an effect on the Color & Tint settings when switching betwen Cinema 1 & 2.

EDIT: One thing I didn't mention is that I found the remote is very sensitive to button presses. I kept getting double entries because I found I was pressing the buttons too hard.
Oh.. I have really bad eyes. I know what ohms are and I knew all along what the av sync function did. I just saw what I thought was "Ohms" and I got confused. If I had known all along it was instead "0 ms" I would have never asked such a stupid question.

Anyway, I have no issues with the sound and video not being in sync, so I will set it back to zero. It didn't even look off when I had it set at 2 ms.

Sorry for that disgruntled1!

: One thing I didn't mention is that I found the remote is very sensitive to button presses. I kept getting double entries because I found I was pressing the buttons too hard.This only seems to be a problem for the up/down/left/right "cursor" buttons. I found this to be very bad in the prior NC80 and other earlier models. Thankfully its much better (but not perfect) in the NC85 so they obviously fixed it somewhat.

ok I can't see the dvd player screen right now but in the audio area there is a function that specifies 48hz or 96 hz-- I messed with it and now don't know what is correct??? help? :-)No offense but all of the default settings are listed in the Settings and Adjustments chapter toward the back of the manual. :)

So here's my update. I first hooked up my Comcast HD box via HDMI with the HDMI cable that comes with the Toshiba HD-DVD to verify my HDMI port on the PE7700 and the Monoprice HDMI cable were good. I next hooked up the Samsung DVD-HD860 via HDMI and put in the DVD I've been using for my testing, SW Ep. III, and it looked just slightly worse than the Sony, but not much different. Then something clicked in my head to run through the THX optimizer since I don't have Avia or DVE yet, and I was amazed by the difference. The color was better, the picture was crisper, and I was pleased. Then I pulled the Sony back out of the box, again connected it via HDMI, reran thru the THX optimizer (only a slight increase in tint was made), started the movie and saw a much better picture on the Sony. I'm sure I was just expecting too much from an upconversion, but I was happy and decided that the Samsung was definitely going back. Then I pulled out the Toshiba HD-DVD player. It has a very sleek remote, with and a nice feature where you can change from 480i thru 1080i at just a push of the button, and don't have to stop the movie to do so. 480 thru the HDMI filled the entire screen even on Real mode of the PE7700. Again, no changes were needed with the THX optimizer. I noticed a slight more detail with the upconverted image with the Toshiba, but not enough to justify $370. So I will be keeping the Sony DVP-NS75H, and once I get Avia/DVE to run through, I will be a happy viewer. And I will post pics I took showing the Sony player vs. the Toshiba HD-DVD tonight.

My best friend bought the Toshiba, and last night I was able to compare my DVPNS75H to his using the same movie of Phantom of the Opera SD DVD. I have to concur that the difference if any is so slight that it isn't worth it to have an HDDVD untill the prices drop down to sub $150. I use Star Wars a New Hope's THX optimizer for my TV while only using Cinema 2 on the DVD player. All I had to do was lower the brightness a little to get the shadows perfect.


CT_Wiebe,

Thank you for your review of the DVPNS75H. it is amazing that it got the scores it got compared to $1,000 dollar DVD players. I look foreward to reading more of your posts.

Ok best buy has a sony dvd player with the model number DVP-NS750H(but doesnt have a sony player with model number dvp-ns75H. Is the dvp-ns750h the same player as the dvp-ns75H???????

how big does the 2x zoom display on the screen when you use the zoom function for this sony dvp-ns75H??
And cant i just set my new samsung 46" lcd hdtv to zoom instead of the player?


Depends on your display type. If your display is prone to issue with macro blocking (such as a plasma), the Sony may be a better fit (now that shift is fixed).
If i have a lcd, should i go with the panasonic 97 because lcd's dont have macroblock????

how big does the 2x zoom display on the screen when you use the zoom function for this sony dvp-ns75H??
And cant i just set my new samsung 46" lcd hdtv to zoom instead of the player?



If i have a lcd, should i go with the panasonic 97 because lcd's dont have macroblock????
The zoom icon that displays isn't huge, but it is very noticeable.

If your player has a Zoom mode for 1080i and 720p you could just use that for DVDs where you need that. Otherwise, just use 480p output and the Zoom mode should be available on your TV with that signal.

Ok best buy has a sony dvd player with the model number DVP-NS750H(but doesnt have a sony player with model number dvp-ns75H. Is the dvp-ns750h the same player as the dvp-ns75H???????No.

An update:

After hours of calibration with AIVA and browsing the calibrating forums here, I still can't get rid of the grainyness in King Kong (2005). So I tried Fifth Element (SuperBit). I don't know if it is a better transfer, or I am just tired of looking at AIVA test screens, and just want to watch some movies, but it looked pretty good to me. This Sony is a keeper.

By the way, I switched back to Cinema 1, but frankly really can't tell a difference between Standard, Cinema 1, or Cinema 2 settings. Same with most of the other adjustments (BNR, MNR, etc.), resolution (480p, 720p, and 1080i), component vs. HDMI, etc. Has anyone actually seen an improvement using any of these? For the record, my set up is:

HDMI
720p
Cinema 1
Dolby, DTS on (why did Sony make this off by default?)
BNR, MNR, Sharpness, etc: Off

ok then is the 750h a good dvd player from best buy??

hey CT a quick question for you, ok you said :
The last Sony they reviewed was the NS775H which didn't get very good marks, but did show very flat component output frequency response.
Why did you buy this player if secrets didnt give it good results?

are you sure that best buy didnt mark the model number wrong. i just compared the crutchfield ns-75h's picture(front and back) to the best buy ns-750h's picture(front and back) and they are identical

ok then is the 750h a good dvd player from best buy??It is 75H not 750h. As for if its a good dvd player...first do some homework/research and read through this thread to get owner's impressions (which btw are generally very favorable). If it looks like it probably meets your needs then buy one and give it a try.

are you sure that best buy didnt mark the model number wrong. i just compared the crutchfield ns-75h's picture(front and back) to the best buy ns-750h's picture(front and back) and they are identicalYES! THEY ARE DIFFERENT! If you spend some time reading through this thread you'll soon discover that the two are different and also what the differences are between the two. Btw, BB and CC are carrying both the NS70 (older model) and NS75 (newer model).

you misunderstood my question disgruntled. i asked if best buy got it wrong when they updated there website?

EDIT: ok i get it now.

well the dvp-ns75H is not on best buys website. only the dvp-ns750H is on it

EDIT: ok I found the dvp-ns75H on circuit city's website. Now someone told me that the Oppo had ten times better PQ than this player does. is this true?

you misunderstood my question disgruntled. i asked if best buy got it wrong when they updated there website?

EDIT: ok i get it now.
It looks like Best Buy just lists the model number wrong. The one on their site that says NS750H is the NS75H.

Note: I've purchased 2 NS75H players at Best Buy (in-store) and they are definitely NS75H, not NS750H.

If you go into your local BB (or CC) you may have to do some rummaging around to find the newer NS75H models as they most likely still have the older NS70H models out on display. Same with NC80 and NC85 5-disc changers.
Trust the reports in this thread...the newer NS75 model is an improvement over the previous NS70 model.
Edit: the NS750H on BB web site is an error. It should be NS75H.

someone told me that the Oppo had ten times better PQ than this player does. is this true?

someone told me that the Oppo had ten times better PQ than this player does. is this true?I woud say not. 10 times better PQ would seem to be a gross exaggeration. Upconvert players like the Oppo aren't even 10 times better than regular component players, maybe twice as good though many people claim less or little or no improvement. Anyway, I've compared the NC85V (the 5-disc version of the NS75H) with Panny S97 (which is generally regarded as at least as good as the Oppo) and there really isn't that much of a PQ difference between them. The S97 (and Oppo) may be a little better than the newer Sony but not 10 times better.

yeah the s97 was my first choice then i looked up the price and i also heard it had macroblocking and cropping issues.

Will i have to worry about these issues if i have a lcd? i heard macroblocking was only apparant in plasmas.

How much better is the s97 and oppo compared to the new sony via hdmi?

mikej3131 -- LCD can show macroblocking too (AFIK), just not as bad as DLPs. As for the comparison between the S97/Oppo on HDMI, I can't answer that one yet. Itsdon & others comments imply that it should be close. At the MSRPs (US$), it is significantly lower cost than either. The added bonus is that the NS75H is better than the S97 over component connections, per testing (mine vs. AVS threads - on HQV results) with the HQV DVD.

Getting the HS75H vs. either the S97 or the Oppo 971H (HDMI only) is a value judgement that only you can make. From my perspective (since I need both the Component and HDMI connections) it's a "no brainer", even if the HDMI output isn't quite as good as the S97's (the Oppo won't work for me).

After all, an up-converting DVD player is just an interim solution: (1) until the prices of the HD-DVD/Blu-Ray players come down, (2) the Hi-Def DVD player war shows a trend, and (3) the titles I want become available. This could take 3 years, or more, and the NS75H should work for a lot longer than that. Just keep everthing in perspective. This is why I won't even consider paying more than $250 (and less is better) for any up-converting player, no matter how good it is.

eh im just gonna go with the sony for 129 at BB and see how it looks on my samsung ln-s4692d

should i still set the audio to dolby digital or dts if im just going to use my tv's speakers with hdmi? the samsung has srs trusurround xt

no problems with Madagascar on my panny 42px50u..picture fills screen..no sign of black bars......watched this in hdmi auto mode....used dynamic 1 setting..picture is 3d like...just great!!!!!!

mikej313-

I compared the Oppo 971 against the sony. I kept the Sony because the sound was a bit better with no audio drop or anything. As far as the picture-- very very close. I went back and forth with the same scene in LOTR and detail was great on both. Audio was one reason I went with Sony and there are many issues still being mentioned on Oppos thread that need worked out. The only real complaint you saw with the Sony 70 player was compression and shift and both of those have been fixed on this one. When Oppo comes out with their replacemnt for the 971 this summer w/ HDMI then I will retry the player because Oppo has excellent service and their player was very good and they will hopefully fix the last issues with that one.

ok..here goes..The Sin City test...great blacks..excellent picture through components..through the hdmi..well...the blacks had green mixed in...tried several settings and adjustments......could not not get the green out of the blacks and shadows....however picture details was superb.......but still this was a failed test because of the greenish blacks...some further tests showed some other strange results..when pausing the picture...there was more picture on the screen when using the hdmi input than there was throught the components...I verified this by using the thx optimizer on a dvd..the circle patterns were fully boxed through the hdmi..however through the components..the top lines of box surrounding the circle was missing..i tried differrent aspect ratios of my panny 42 px50u with the same results through the components...through the hdmi the aspect ratio cannot be used......my old sony player shows fully boxed circles through the components..so there is some sort of picture ratio quirk.. I have it set to 16x9 in dvd set up.....so i guess this player is not perfect either...I plan to keep both sets of in puts connected to my tv......in case I see any more Sin City type of problems..I can use the components...otherwise I plan to watch everything through the hdmi..still all in all this baby plays all dvd's...bought or home made perfectly..and the video quality is still hard to beat

-snip-
By the way, I switched back to Cinema 1, but frankly really can't tell a difference between Standard, Cinema 1, or Cinema 2 settings. Same with most of the other adjustments (BNR, MNR, etc.), resolution (480p, 720p, and 1080i), component vs. HDMI, etc. Has anyone actually seen an improvement using any of these? For the record, my set up is:

HDMI
720p
Cinema 1
Dolby, DTS on (why did Sony make this off by default?)
BNR, MNR, Sharpness, etc: Off

I can tell a difference between Cinema 1 and Standard. My eyes prefer the "Standard" setting over Cinema 1. I would wager that Cinema 1 is boosting the gamma level as the shadow detail starts to get a little too bright and the color saturation begins to decrease a tad.

My advice to those that prefer the Cinema 1 setting would be to go back to the Standard setting, recalibrate your display with AVIA in a light controlled room, and then try it back at Cinema 1 again to see if you still prefer it that way. I'd be willing to bet that your shadow details are too bright at the Cinema setting.

If you have a LCD display I can understand the preference toward the Cinema 1 setting though....

I have a question, i'll be picking up this player tomorrow and i'll be using it with my Infocus SP 4805 which is a naitive 480p projector, what benifits do you suppose i'll see using this player?

I assume, using the player in 480p mode, it should be a bit better in 480p because it will be a straight-up digital delivery, is ths assumption correct?

Also, since my PJ is 480p, is the 720p and 1080i settings on the player absolutely useless to me, or will I still see some benifits using them?

I ask these questions because I had a chance to audition the new Samsung HD860 for a week and it was a terrible player, after spending two hours playing with it, I couldn't find any adjustments or combinations of adjustments between the player and my projector that made the image even close to acceptable, very jittery, blurry and the black level was, well, we won't go there becuase I do want to sleep tonight afterall. ;)

I'm hoping to get better results with the Sony, which i'm getting by exchanging the Samsung and paying the $25 difference.

I'm running HDMI to M1, BTW.

I can tell a difference between Cinema 1 and Standard. My eyes prefer the "Standard" setting over Cinema 1. I would wager that Cinema 1 is boosting the gamma level as the shadow detail starts to get a little too bright and the color saturation begins to decrease a tad.

My advice to those that prefer the Cinema 1 setting would be to go back to the Standard setting, recalibrate your display with AVIA in a light controlled room, and then try it back at Cinema 1 again to see if you still prefer it that way. I'd be willing to bet that your shadow details are too bright at the Cinema setting.

If you have a LCD display I can understand the preference toward the Cinema 1 setting though....

I believe the that many are using Cinema 1 (or 2), because "blacker than black" is only passed with these Cinema settings. Of course, exactly what the real world value is of passing blacker than black is highly debatable. Personally, I have switched back and forth between Standard and Cinema 1, and have, for the time being left it on Cinema 1 (always recalibrating with Avia).

LIY

I'd also just like to add that if your calibrating your monitor using the THX Optimizer on a given dvd, you should be aware, if you aren't already, that the THX Optimizer is "film specific", meaning that each one is designed to achieve optimal image quality only from the individual dvd that it's featured on and isn't a universal calibration tool. For that, you should use AVIA or another similar calibration disc.

Just a friendly FYI.

I can tell a difference between Cinema 1 and Standard. My eyes prefer the "Standard" setting over Cinema 1. I would wager that Cinema 1 is boosting the gamma level as the shadow detail starts to get a little too bright and the color saturation begins to decrease a tad.

My advice to those that prefer the Cinema 1 setting would be to go back to the Standard setting, recalibrate your display with AVIA in a light controlled room, and then try it back at Cinema 1 again to see if you still prefer it that way. I'd be willing to bet that your shadow details are too bright at the Cinema setting.

If you have a LCD display I can understand the preference toward the Cinema 1 setting though....


I have a Maxent MX-50X3 plasma (Panasonic glass). Viewing conditions are at night with backlighting. Can't really tell a difference between Standard and Cinema 1, so I went with Cinema 1 due to other member's comments about passing BTB - though once again I don't think I could tell the difference. Could boosting the gamma level make the picture grainier? In all my calibrations, I haven't been able to get rid of graininess in certain DVDs with clouds, shadows, fog, etc. - lit areas in a dark scene. But with numerous calibration attempts, I have gotten to a point where it is good enough. Maybe I will try Standard again, unless someone can explain why Blacker than Black is important, especially on a Plasma supposedly good at blacks.

Has anyone compared the hdmi-dvi vs. component video on an older sony kf50we610? i was wondering if it worth my time even buying the hdmi-dvi cable?

I can tell a difference between Cinema 1 and Standard. My eyes prefer the "Standard" setting over Cinema 1. I would wager that Cinema 1 is boosting the gamma level as the shadow detail starts to get a little too bright and the color saturation begins to decrease a tad.

My advice to those that prefer the Cinema 1 setting would be to go back to the Standard setting, recalibrate your display with AVIA in a light controlled room, and then try it back at Cinema 1 again to see if you still prefer it that way. I'd be willing to bet that your shadow details are too bright at the Cinema setting.

If you have a LCD display I can understand the preference toward the Cinema 1 setting though....

But the manual says to use Cinema 1 or Cinema 2 for movies :confused:

Does anyone else have a Samsung HLP 5063W? The reason I ask is, to my eyes, the NS75 displays a better image in 480p mode. Shouldn't the 720p mode (my tv's native resolution) look better? Is the 3 year old scaler in my tv better than Sony's? I just want to confirm my eyes aren't going blind.

Here's the rest of my setup:
HDMI -> DVI hookup
Cinema 1
Sharpness 2
Everything else defaulted

I just picked up the player today. First things first, perusing this thread it's about 9 to 1 that the shift problem from the 70H, which I have only heard about, has been fixed. A small number of people though are getting a shift issue with the 75H though. Unfortunately, I'm one of them.

I've checked out these DVDs so far: Revenge of the Sith, Close Encounters of the Third Kind, Baraka, Koyaanisqatsi, Princess Mononoke, Jacob's Ladder, The Innocents, The Shining and the pilot of Lost. The results varied, but I had at least a slight shift on everything. Usually for the menus the shift was either small or completely absent, but the actual movie all had it.

With PM and JL, 1.85 films, there was a black band on the bottom and the right. With Koyaanisqatsi, however, there was actually a black band around the entire picture... top bottom, left and right. The wide aspect films had a black band on the right, but of course I can't see if there was a black band on the bottom. The Shining had no visible shift, but that's pillar boxed so I couldn't see if there was a shift on the right. Lost is 16:9, and on that there was a VERY slight black bar on the right... so small you had to really look for it to see it.

I've tried all kinds of settings on the DVD player and the display but got the shift every time. I'm using a monoprice HDMI/DVI cable.

Any one have any idea why just a few people are still getting the shift issue with the 75H? Are there just a few machines out there that are bad, do we have problems with our displays? I'll probably take mine back and get another one of the same model to see if that helps. I might also want to track down one of these $50 cyberhome upconverting players I saw at Walmart the other day just to make sure it isn't my display.

This is my first upconverting player so I have nothing to compare it to besides the progressive scan players. I had pretty much resigned myself to use progressive scan players until something emerged from the HD-DVD/Blu-Ray thing because I heard so many mixed reactions about how much improvement there is with upconverting, but the prices on them got too appealing. I must say, I found the improvement in the picture quality very tangible and it's clearly worth the extra money. Revenge of the Sith looked INCREDIBLE. There's no way a progressive scan player could look that good. I looked at scenes from Baraka that looked bad on my old Philips player and there was a tremendous improvement. I looked at Jacob's Ladder which I thought looked grainy and bad on the old player and while the picture was still grainy, it still looked much better. The Shining didn't look too hot, but I think that's the source. The improvement is picture quality is impressive enough for me to live with the shift issue like the owners of the 70H did, but if it can be fixed, I'd really like to get it fixed.

I have a Maxent MX-50X3 plasma (Panasonic glass). Viewing conditions are at night with backlighting. Can't really tell a difference between Standard and Cinema 1, so I went with Cinema 1 due to other member's comments about passing BTB - though once again I don't think I could tell the difference. Could boosting the gamma level make the picture grainier? In all my calibrations, I haven't been able to get rid of graininess in certain DVDs with clouds, shadows, fog, etc. - lit areas in a dark scene. But with numerous calibration attempts, I have gotten to a point where it is good enough. Maybe I will try Standard again, unless someone can explain why Blacker than Black is important, especially on a Plasma supposedly good at blacks.

Yes, boosting gamma can cause what you are noticing. Try a little experiment. Download a copy of a free image editing program called irfanview. Load a picture that has some shadows in it (night scenes will work best) and watch what happens as you raise the gamma level (Image->Enhance Colors). The picture you use should have low noise in it to begin with--i.e. taken at a low ISO. Boost the gamma to around 1.25 and I think you'll begin to see similarities.

well here is something i just discovered this am....I was comparing components to hdmi..and posted the larger cropped at the top picture through compOnents as compares the to smaller but more picture and sharper picture through hdmi.....well what was causing that that was i had both the hdmi and components plugged into dvd player and tv at the same time and was freeze framing and changing tv input to see the difference.....i unplugged the hdmi cable from tv and the component picture changed to the same size and picture as the hdmi was delivering.....and it looked just great....so if you are going to compare one set of inputs to the other

DO NOT PLUG THE HDMI CABLE AND THE COMPONENT CABLES INTO TV AT THE SAME TIME!!!!!!..it will change the video size and quality of the components

one last thing...i was watching the EMPIRE STRIKES BACK..through the hdmi and every now and then the video or the sound would disappear for a second and then be ok..when I replayed the scene..it played back clean....I hope it is just this movie and not an every movie thing through the hdmi...never had this problem using the components only with this player

Finally got one ordered from circuit city, local store was out so they will ship for free. Need to order a cable from monoprice.

If the sony works good, I think I will get this HDMI switch (http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=101&cp_id=10110&cs_id=1011001&p_id=2786&style=&seq=1&format=1#largeimage) too. My TV only has one dvi/HDMI input. Using one already with the DISH HD receiver.

Well, I ended up with the 85H since I wanted a changer. I calibrated it with Avia and have been comparing it to my Zenith DVB318. Right now the Zenith is winning. I calibrated the Sony using the "standard" setting as I was able to see the two moving black bars on the Avia pattern which, if I understand correctly, shows that it is passing BTB (someone please correct me if I'm wrong as other players that are known to not pass BTB do not show them on my TV). Anyway, relative to the Zenith, the picture is a little softer and, more importantly, the colors lack the "punch" that the Zenith has. I'm going to retry calibrating using Cinema 1 tonight but I don't like letting the player do any sort of "magic" before I calibrate the TV. BTW, out of the box my overscan varied from 4 to 5% all around - I since dialed it to 4% all around. One interesting thing though is that my red, blue and green seem to be -5 to -10% according to the Avia Color Decoder pattern with the Sony. :confused:

one last thing...i was watching the EMPIRE STRIKES BACK..through the hdmi and every now and then the video or the sound would disappear for a second and then be ok..when I replayed the scene..it played back clean....I hope it is just this movie and not an every movie thing through the hdmi...never had this problem using the components only with this player
Gene - this same thing happend to me while demoing A NEW HOPE - only once (so far) and not when I replayed it. I wonder if it's something in the mastering of the SW DVDs?!? :confused:

CT_Wiebe,

How do your HQV scores for the NS75H compare to these scores (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=7428940&highlight=hqv#post7428940) reported by Ktulu_1?

Yes, boosting gamma can cause what you are noticing. Try a little experiment. Download a copy of a free image editing program called irfanview. Load a picture that has some shadows in it (night scenes will work best) and watch what happens as you raise the gamma level (Image->Enhance Colors). The picture you use should have low noise in it to begin with--i.e. taken at a low ISO. Boost the gamma to around 1.25 and I think you'll begin to see similarities.


Thanks for the tip. I've used Irfanview for years on my PC, so I will try it tonight with a picture with shadows and report back on my results. I assume if boosting the gamma results in the same "graininess" using my PC, I should use the Standard setting on the 85H and re-calibrate with AVIA, correct?

Note: My PC is hooked up through the RGB input, the 85H through the HDMI. I don't think that should matter for this test.

I bought one of these today to go with my new Panny 42PX60u TV. The funny thing was that Best Buy here in NC has plenty of them, but at $135.95 . Sony lists the price at $129.95. What gives? I ended up buying mine fron Circuit City for $114.95 on sale.

JimSD -- The numbers that I was refering to are the ones from that thread. The NS75H, on the component output, beats them all. I got 110 total (most tests were 10/10 or 5/5). Like I said, I won't have it hooked up with the HDMI connection for a while, so that will have to wait.

But the manual says to use Cinema 1 or Cinema 2 for movies :confused:

I'm really just advocating using your own judgement and eyes to make a decision either way. It's rarely the case where one size fits all in this hobby given all of the variables.

I've been reading this site for a little over a month now and appreciate all of the great sharing of information. This forum steered me to upgrade my DVD player and last week, I purchased the 75H and hooked it up to my Samsung HL-5078W DLP via HDMI cable. I connected the audio from the 75H to my Denon AVR-2105 via optical. I have turned on the Dolby and DTS audio out on the 75H. Good picture on the set and 5.1 sound from the receiver. My problem is there is substantial delay or lip sync between the speakers and the television. I've read the Denon manual and 75H manual and cannot find a solution to eliminate the lip sync. On the 75H, the manual says the audio adjustment to correct this problem does not work when connected to a receiver using an optical connection. Anybody out there steer me to a fix?

JimSD -- The numbers that I was refering to are the ones from that thread. The NS75H, on the component output, beats them all. I got 110 total (most tests were 10/10 or 5/5). Like I said, I won't have it hooked up with the HDMI connection for a while, so that will have to wait.


So over component (480p) it scored a 110 but over HDMI (480p) it scored a 41?

I know I'm only getting RGB output because of the HDMI>DVI conversion so perhaps those folks running straight HDMI>HDMI won't need the Cinema 2 boost.

What does that mean? Using and HMDI--->DVI cable won't produce as good of image as HDMI->HMDI? Also, how much overscan should a RP HDTV have? Isn't it 5%?

I think that it means that the componant output out-performs the HDMI on the NS75.

I don't know if that holds true in all cases, though, I know that with the Samsung 860, running 480p via HDMI yielded more subtle detail on the resolution patterens on AVIA.

That's the thing about upconverting players, you just need to try them out and hope for the best.

If i don't plan to use the hdmi output, should i buy a ns55 instead?

I'm not familiar with that model, but if it's an upconverting player I would say skip it, if your not going to run HDMI, what's the point? I would just go with a traditional progressive player.

I've compared the S97 and NS75H over HDMI on an HT1000. On regular dvd viewing, I could not tell much of a difference. The only difference i found was that the S97 performed much better on the resolution patterns on Avia. This was the case on 720 and 1080.

What does that mean? Using and HMDI--->DVI cable won't produce as good of image as HDMI->HMDI? Also, how much overscan should a RP HDTV have? Isn't it 5%?

HDMI>HDMI will allow you 10 bit color. HDMI>DVI forces 8 bit color (RGB).

HDMI>HDMI will allow you 10 bit color. HDMI>DVI forces 8 bit color (RGB).
Is this noticable? Also, what % of overscan is okay on a RP HDTV?

Is this noticable? Also, what % of overscan is okay on a RP HDTV?

It probably is slightly noticeable but since my PJ is DVI there is no way for me to tell just how noticeable. The 8 bit picture looks sweet to me though!

ChrisCollins -- Whoops, I screwed up :eek:. When I did a quick look at your link, I thought it was the original version and I did not scan through the whole thread.

My HDMI PJ is dead right now, so I didn't test that connection and have no score for the HDMI output. I am going back to the link you provided and read it closer.

Quite frankly, I'm really surprised that someone got a 41 for the NS75H over the HDMI connection, given my score, of about 110, using the component connections. I'm going to reread the link you provided right now.

ChrisCollins -- Whoops, I screwed up :eek:. When I did a quick look at your link, I thought it was the original version and I did not scan through the whole thread.

My HDMI PJ is dead right now, so I didn't test that connection and have no score for the HDMI output. I am going back to the link you provided and read it closer.

Quite frankly, I'm really surprised that someone got a 41 for the NS75H over the HDMI connection, given my score, of about 110, using the component connections. I'm going to reread the link you provided right now.



I don't know anything about AVIA test patterns. But using my own eyes, the player looks best with HDMI.

Supermans -- ChrisCollins and I were talking about the HQV torture test DVD, not the AVIA calibration DVD.

A low score on the HQV DVD does not mean it won't deliver a nice picture, just that it may show some artifacts with some difficult scenes. My old RP91 player didn't have a very good score either (around 35-45), but still put out a very nice picture.

ChrisCollins -- For some reason I thought you were pointing to the original HQV Test results page (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=559736) :eek:. Now I see what your confusion was. That's what I get for not reading this thread every day :(.

I also had some incorrect evaluation too, after reviewing the HQV scorecard instructions. After a re-review, here is what I came up with (HQV DVD, Version 1.2):

Sony DVP-NS75H, Component Connection
Mitsubishi HC3 LCD projector (960 x 540)
16:9 mode, 106" screen
480p Mode

Color Bars / Vertical Detail = 10
Jaggies Pattern 1 = 5
Jaggies Pattern 2 = 3
Flag = 10
Picture Detail = 10 (this was a 5 on some DVDs as I can see EE on some of them)
Noise Reduction = 5 (DNR turned off)
Motion Adaptive Noise Reduction = 10
3:2 Detection = 10
-----
Film Cadence
2:2 = 5
2:2:2:4 = 5
2:3:3:2 = 5
3:2:3:2:2 = 5
5:5 = 5
6:4 = 0
8:7 = 0
3:2 = 5
-----
Mixed 3:2 Film Mixed With Added Video Titles (Horizontal Crawl) = 10
Mixed 3:2 Film Mixed With Added Video Titles (Vertical Crawl) = 10

Total = 102/108 (this drops to 97/103 if I ignore the Noise test as Ktulu_1 did).

If my 720p PJ was working (it's got a dead lamp), these results might be different because of its higher resolution. It should be noted, that evaluation of the tests are somewhat subjective because the clarity and picture quality depends on the viewers perception and nit-pick level. I was trying to be as objective as possible, but I'm also not super nit-picky.

I don't really understand how Ktulu_1 got such a low score with the HDMI connection, since using the component outputs adds a D/A conversion step (in the NS75H) and an A/D conversion (in my HC3) to the display chain. Both of these extra steps should make the PQ worse. In both cases (his & mine) the DVD is still doing de-interlacing (in the 480p test).

If he is comparing to a high quality HDTV program, then I can understand it, because no DVD will equal a good HD program. Also, Ktulu_1 is using Version 1.4 vs. my Version 1.2 of the HQV DVD (I don't know if that is significant).

well...I guess it's not just the STAR WARS MOVIES...this morning i tried the Superbit Version of THE FIFTH ELEMENT and got the same damn video dropouts through the hdmi to my panny plasma..last nite i rewatched THE EMPIRE STIKES BACK in every possible playback format through hdmi ..including 480p and got dropouts...now this morning another movie..same thing...there is no audio drop out when listening through the digital out to my receiver...just picture..and always at a different spot..never the same place twice...and sometimes all is ok for a half hour or more then..bam..a video dropout.....when listening to sound through tv..picture and sound both drop out....this is not an issue through the components..just the hdmi..as I watched many movies cleanly through components till I got my hands on an hdmi cable..now I'm sorry I did....cause the picture is great through hdmi..but this video dropout sucks

anyone resolve this issue yet?

well...I guess it's not just the STAR WARS MOVIES...this morning i tried the Superbit Version of THE FIFTH ELEMENT and got the same damn video dropouts through the hdmi to my panny plasma..last nite i rewatched THE EMPIRE STIKES BACK in every possible playback format through hdmi ..including 480p and got dropouts...now this morning another movie..same thing...there is no audio drop out when listening through the digital out to my receiver...just picture..and always at a different spot..never the same place twice...and sometimes all is ok for a half hour or more then..bam..a video dropout.....when listening to sound through tv..picture and sound both drop out....this is not an issue through the components..just the hdmi..as I watched many movies cleanly through components till I got my hands on an hdmi cable..now I'm sorry I did....cause the picture is great through hdmi..but this video dropout sucks

anyone resolve this issue yet?

Have you checked your HDMI cable? I get no such "drop-outs" with any of the movies you mention with the Sony set for 720p into a Pio 1130.

LIY

ChrisCollins -- For some reason I thought you were pointing to the original HQV Test results page (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=559736) :eek:. Now I see what your confusion was. That's what I get for not reading this thread every day :(.

I also had some incorrect evaluation too, after reviewing the HQV scorecard instructions. After a re-review, here is what I came up with (HQV DVD, Version 1.2):

Sony DVP-NS75H, Component Connection
Mitsubishi HC3 LCD projector (960 x 540)
16:9 mode, 106" screen
480p Mode

Color Bars / Vertical Detail = 10
Jaggies Pattern 1 = 5
Jaggies Pattern 2 = 3
Flag = 10
Picture Detail = 10 (this was a 5 on some DVDs as I can see EE on some of them)
Noise Reduction = 5 (DNR turned off)
Motion Adaptive Noise Reduction = 10
3:2 Detection = 10
-----
Film Cadence
2:2 = 5
2:2:2:4 = 5
2:3:3:2 = 5
3:2:3:2:2 = 5
5:5 = 5
6:4 = 0
8:7 = 0
3:2 = 5
-----
Mixed 3:2 Film Mixed With Added Video Titles (Horizontal Crawl) = 10
Mixed 3:2 Film Mixed With Added Video Titles (Vertical Crawl) = 10

Total = 102/108 (this drops to 97/103 if I ignore the Noise test as Ktulu_1 did).

If my 720p PJ was working (it's got a dead lamp), these results might be different because of its higher resolution. It should be noted, that evaluation of the tests are somewhat subjective because the clarity and picture quality depends on the viewers perception and nit-pick level. I was trying to be as objective as possible, but I'm also not super nit-picky.

I don't really understand how Ktulu_1 got such a low score with the HDMI connection, since using the component outputs adds a D/A conversion step (in the NS75H) and an A/D conversion (in my HC3) to the display chain. Both of these extra steps should make the PQ worse. In both cases (his & mine) the DVD is still doing de-interlacing (in the 480p test).

If he is comparing to a high quality HDTV program, then I can understand it, because no DVD will equal a good HD program. Also, Ktulu_1 is using Version 1.4 vs. my Version 1.2 of the HQV DVD (I don't know if that is significant).

Wow Claus, that's quite a difference. Since the test names are mostly the same as the 1.4 disc I'm assuming that the tests are much the same. How do they compare to the tests in the current manual? The manual can be found at http://www.hqv.com/contentEngine/dspDocumentDownload.cfm?PCVID=6557af58-7e90-e2a3-bea3-f6ec25bf8781.

If the tests are much the same, and my scores are somehow off, this is the greatest DVD player, ever, at almost any price. Compare your scores to other players in this thread http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=550103

Regarding to 3:2 detection test for example. The test on my disc is a race car driving past a grand stand and is supposed to be scored as follows.

10 = OVERALL SHARPNESS IS GOOD, NO MOIRÉ PATTERN IS SEEN, AND
THE TV LOCKS INTO FILM MODE ALMOST INSTANTLY (NO MORE
THAN 5 FRAMES OR ABOUT .2 SECONDS)

5 = THE IMAGE LOOKS DETAILED AND MOTION IS SMOOTH, BUT MOIRÉ
IS SEEN IN THE GRANDSTAND FOR UP TO ONE HALF SECOND
(ABOUT 15 FRAMES) AS THE TV SWITCHES INTO FILM MODE

0 = THE TV TAKES TOO LONG TO LOCK INTO FILM MODE OR DROPS IN
AND OUT OF FILM MODE, AND A STRONG MOIRÉ PATTERN IS SEEN
IN THE GRANDSTAND

If it is the same on your disc, you see moire in the grandstand for only 5 frames? My player never locks onto 3:2 and moire is present the entire clip resulting in a score of 0.

Gene9p....I had this once the other day....I noticed that my hdmi blue light went out when this happened....so I think it may have to do with the HDMI 'handshake' protocol was lost for a second or two but then reconnected. It happened to me on Harry Potter Goblet of Fire. Hdmi cables felt nice and seated in the tv and dvd player....it may just be glitchy.

Not much help there....they suggested trying a different cable....I'll see if i can borrow one from a friend..cause i need a 15 foot cable like the one i am using.....also suggested the old powering down to see if it clears....will do that when I get back.....it's just funny how it is never the same place....in the movies...always intermittent.....you never know when it's going to happen....and different people having it happen to different movies...all with different audio video setups i'm sure....mine is a panasonic..42px50u.....the hdmi input is ok since i was using it for my digital hd cable without any glitches

The DVP-NS75H & DVP-NC85H (Silver only) are available in Canada

MSRP DVP-NS75H $199.00
MSRP DVP-NC85H $229.00

Markup on units is about 25% (not volume pricing)

Currently only place to get them is to have your local HT store place an order with Sony.

Most HT stores will sell it to you for 5 - 10% off MSRP.

BestBuy and Futureshop might have them in a couple of weeks. (or might not).

Just ordered my NC85H, should have it soon.

I'm not a tekkie so I thank you in advance for the answer to my question. I currently have a 60" Sony SXRD and I am running a Panasonic DVD H1000 progressive scan player via components. I realize this player is older technology but the picture looks good.

Would I see a much improved picture with an upconverting player through HDMI?

Perhaps I should wait for Blue ray...

I'm not sure how upconversion works as it relates to my 1080 tv.

Thanks again,

Lance

Not much help there....they suggested trying a different cable....I'll see if i can borrow one from a friend..cause i need a 15 foot cable like the one i am using.....also suggested the old powering down to see if it clears....will do that when I get back.....it's just funny how it is never the same place....in the movies...always intermittent.....you never know when it's going to happen....and different people having it happen to different movies...all with different audio video setups i'm sure....mine is a panasonic..42px50u.....the hdmi input is ok since i was using it for my digital hd cable without any glitchesGene - well, that really sucks for you! :mad: So far I've only noticed the one dropout, the one time, in SW - ANH. I will keep checking it out. As far as cables go, I'm using a 6' monoprice HDMI cable.

For those of you that are having HDMI drop-out problems - the HDMI connectors are not very robust and have to be treated with extreme care, the pins are quite fragile and the connectors can easily become loose or damaged. It sounds like you may be having an intermittant problem associated with the cable conections (cable connectors themselves or the connectors on either end). You can easily check the display end if you have another HDMI source (cable or satellite STB) and/or another HDMI cable. There is also a possibility that you have some bad DVDs too, so you can't rule that out completely.

-----

Ktulu_1 -- I just got an email response from Silicon Optix (I emailed them last night asking about the differences between 1.2 & 1.4). The answer was "There are small differences between the two versions." I will be able to check it out for myself since Silicon Optix said they would send me the latest version.

The 3:2 Detection Test is the same. I got a 10 on both 480i & 480p.

My RP91 was a "0" on 480p and a "10-/5+" on 480i with my MT700 PJ (about 7 or 8 frames before lock, IIRC, -- I didn't run the test with my the RP91 and my HC3 PJ & the RP91 is disconnected now).

-----

lance100 -- You may or may not see an improvement using upconversion over HDMI with you SXRD (theoretically you should, because the 60" SXRD is new and big enough to see a difference).

Technical Stuff: The use of the HDMI requires an up-converting player. The component connections are analog video and require a digital to analog (D/A) conversion in the player (the signal is 480i - interlaced - digital, on the DVD). The HDMI output is strictly digital, so no D/A conversion is needed. The advantage is that the signal stays digital all the way from the DVD to the screen, so there are no conversion losses. The scaling in the NS75H should be about the same (if not identical) to that in your SXRD, so the scaling from 480i (on the DVD) to 1080i should be about the same. Note: 480i cannot be output from the player over HDMI.

You should read the comments regarding the performance in the previous posts.

The only advantage of getting the NS75H now, is that the Blu-Ray/HD-DVD war will not be settled for at least 5 years (IMHO) and the movies you want to watch will probably not be released for the next year or two. So it's a personal choice of perfomance and cost. If you're happy with the picture quality from your H1000 (a good player) and can wait for a couple of more years, at least, then it may not be worth it. You probably will not "be blown away" with the picture quality improvements, although it "should" be better. If you're not technically inclined (or nit picky about PQ) and don't have about $130 burning a hole in your pocket, then maybe you shouldn't get it.

I bought the NS75H because it had a good price and had good preliminary reviews. I was curious about upconversion, my RP91 is getting old, I don't anticipate getting an HD player for at least 5 years, and I could save the price of quite a few DVDs compared to the Panasonic S97 (my first choice). At least that was my justification -- I have a lot of DVDs.

Tried the gamma test by using Irfanview to take a picture and boost the gamma - but I wasn't really able to duplicate the graininess (not at 1.25 anyway). Nevertheless, I switched from Cinema 1 to Standard and re-calibrated with AVIA. Found that brightness and contrast had to be bumped up higher to see the bars on both patterns. I am now running a contrast of 80 (out of 100) and a brightness of 53 (out of a 100). I read in the calibrations forum that you want as high a contrast as possible, with as low a brightness as possible. Should I be concerned with such a high contrast on a plasma? On all settings, I see both bars on both tests. Not sure if this means the 85H is passing BTB in Standard, Cinema 1 and Cinema 2.

I bought the NS75H because it had a good price and had good preliminary reviews. I was curious about upconversion, my RP91 is getting old, I don't anticipate getting an HD player for at least 5 years, and I could save the price of quite a few DVDs compared to the Panasonic S97 (my first choice). At least that was my justification -- I have a lot of DVDs.


I had the same reasons for purchasing the 85H: 1) Good price 2) Good reviews 3) Curious about upconversion 4) My DVD player was really old (composite video) 5) I am not planning on buying HD-DVD or Blu-Ray for maybe 3 years (although I wouldn't rule out a PS3) 6) I have 250+ DVDs that I want to look as good as possible.

I bought the 85H instead of the 75H because I love the changer functionality and for just $15-$20 more, it is a bargain. Sure helps to switch between movies and the AVIA disc with the push of a button rather than taking out and loading discs all the time.

Ktulu_1 -- I just got an email response from Silicon Optix (I emailed them last night asking about the differences between 1.2 & 1.4). The answer was "There are small differences between the two versions." I will be able to check it out for myself since Silicon Optix said they would send me the latest version.

The 3:2 Detection Test is the same. I got a 10 on both 480i & 480p.

My RP91 was a "0" on 480p and a "10-/5+" on 480i with my MT700 PJ (about 7 or 8 frames before lock, IIRC, -- I didn't run the test with my the RP91 and my HC3 PJ & the RP91 is disconnected now).


I'm flabbergasted! So you're telling me that at 480p over HDMI the 75H locks into 3:2 and there is no moire in the grandstand?

What is your progressive setting? Auto or Video?

When you say you're testing at 480i I can only assume you mean over component. 480i is pointless in the discussion of the player as the disc will be testing the deinterlacing of your display.

EDIT: You're going to make me drag the thing out and hook it up again, aren't you? Also, when I add your scores up I get 113. Is that correct?

Tried the gamma test by using Irfanview to take a picture and boost the gamma - but I wasn't really able to duplicate the graininess (not at 1.25 anyway). Nevertheless, I switched from Cinema 1 to Standard and re-calibrated with AVIA. Found that brightness and contrast had to be bumped up higher to see the bars on both patterns. I am now running a contrast of 80 (out of 100) and a brightness of 53 (out of a 100). I read in the calibrations forum that you want as high a contrast as possible, with as low a brightness as possible. Should I be concerned with such a high contrast on a plasma? On all settings, I see both bars on both tests. Not sure if this means the 85H is passing BTB in Standard, Cinema 1 and Cinema 2.

Might check in the plasma forum... what were you're settings before? I would imagine that as long as you're not displaying static material for any extended period you would be ok.

What did you think of the picture after you calibrated it using the standard setting as compared to your previous settings?

Hey CT
I bought the NS75H because it had a good price and had good preliminary reviews. I was curious about upconversion, my RP91 is getting old, I don't anticipate getting an HD player for at least 5 years, and I could save the price of quite a few DVDs compared to the Panasonic S97 (my first choice). At least that was my justification -- I have a lot of DVDs.

So you would have went with the s97 if it was as cheap as the sony????

I've been reading this site for a little over a month now and appreciate all of the great sharing of information. This forum steered me to upgrade my DVD player and last week, I purchased the 75H and hooked it up to my Samsung HL-5078W DLP via HDMI cable. I connected the audio from the 75H to my Denon AVR-2105 via optical. I have turned on the Dolby and DTS audio out on the 75H. Good picture on the set and 5.1 sound from the receiver. My problem is there is substantial delay or lip sync between the speakers and the television. I've read the Denon manual and 75H manual and cannot find a solution to eliminate the lip sync. On the 75H, the manual says the audio adjustment to correct this problem does not work when connected to a receiver using an optical connection. Anybody out there steer me to a fix?

Has anyone addressed this guys issue?

Has anyone addressed this guys issue?

He should simply use a digital coax cable instead of the optical, if the manual doesn't say he can't. Not sure about the 2105 Denon, but the 3805 for example, has an audio delay function within it.

I finally got off my lazy arse and went out and picked up this player, as soon as I got it home I quickly connected it to my SP 4805 because I was dying of curiosity about how it would look!

Well, the image quality of this player is, in a word, incredible! I switched and tried all three formats and ALL of them shined on the 4805, in fact, I have it set to 1080i and that's where this bad boy is staying! I popped in Star Wars Clone Wars Vol. 2 and just stared in awe at the pure digital light show that was gracing my 103" screen. I did notice that my projector, as mentioned, never changed to any other resolution besides 480p, but in all honesty, to my eyes, it hardly mattered lol.

Bottom line for me, i've NEVER seen standard def dvd look this clean and pure until today, and anyone with a SP 4805 who is hesitant on getting this player, I can assure you that you have nothing to worry about. All of the subtle noise that standard componant video introduced into the image is GONE!

As a sidenote, Samsung should be freakin' ashamed of themselves for putting out such a cheap piece of garbage like the 860, the Sony NS75H SLAMS it into the dirt...then eats it for breakfast!

BTW, after spending nerly 5 hrs with it and sampling everything from Titanic to the Star Wars trilogy, I haven't experienced nary a single video drop-out and the audio sync is dead on from my Onkyo reciever.

Claus, I was dieing to know what the heck is going on here so I hooked the player back up and ran the tests again at 480p over HDMI and 480p over component. The results remain the same. I also did 480i over component to test the deinterlacer in my display. The player is slightly better. One of four things are going on here.

1. I'm insane and cant differentiate fantasy from reality

2. My player is faulty but the ones that work are actually better deinterlacers than about 2 or 3 of the players ever made all for $130.

3. There is something wrong with your results, testing, etc.

4. There is something wrong with my results, testing, etc and this player is a better deinterlacer than about 2 or 3 players ever made and some video processors.

Claus, I was dieing to know what the heck is going on here so I hooked the player back up and ran the tests again at 480p over HDMI and 480p over component. The results remain the same. I also did 480i over component to test the deinterlacer in my display. The player is slightly better. One of four things are going on here.

1. I'm insane and cant differentiate fantasy from reality

2. My player is faulty but the ones that work are actually better deinterlacers than about 2 or 3 of the players ever made all for $130.

3. There is something wrong with your results, testing, etc.

4. There is something wrong with my results, testing, etc and this player is a better deinterlacer than about 2 or 3 players ever made and some video processors.

Ummm, I'm voting #1 :D

Might check in the plasma forum... what were you're settings before? I would imagine that as long as you're not displaying static material for any extended period you would be ok.

What did you think of the picture after you calibrated it using the standard setting as compared to your previous settings?

My AVIA calibrated settings were (all out of 100):

Standard - Contrast:80, Brightness: 53
Cinema 1 - Contrast:75, Brightness: 50
Cinema 2 - Contrast:70, Brightness: 45

Definitely a pattern, don't you think? To be honest, couldn't say that any of them were "better" than the others. If contrast should be as high as possible, with brightness as low as possible, there definitely seems to be some tradeoffs with using the Cinema settings. As I mentioned earlier, I see both bars in both tests on all settings.

I was watching Hostel and I also had a video-audio drop out for a second.

ok so I tried sony's advice to power down tv and dvd player and rehook cables b4 repowering up....and the same thing continues ..now the list grows as every movie i watch has an audio video droput problem through the hdmi at every possible resloution setting..including changing the output to RGB ....I worked on this for 4 hours last nite..

.the only thing I did notice is that...no matter what movies..or at what scene I select..after 15 minutes i get a small white flash on bottom of picture...at about 23 minutes of watching..the first video droput occurs..followed by a second at about 26 minutes...

another weird thing was the video dropout and white flash that happenned while I had stopped disc and was looking at the custom menu..I was deciding what adjustment to try next..now i know when you chage resolution setting..you get a momentary dropout as the picture adjusts itself...but I had not done anthing when this occured!!!

another note..the blue lite stayed on during dropouts..some have stated they noticed the blue light go out as if a handshake had a momentary failure..this did not happen to me....

also note...the audio continues cleanly with no drop out when listening to digital out to receiver..but if you are watching and listening through tv only..you lose the audio with the video dropout



I beginning to think it it is the player and not the cable......maybe it is not compatable with my panny plasma via hdmi

any way..just to reassure myself the hdmi on tv is ok,,I rehooked up my hd cable box via the dvi out..using an hdmi to dvi cable and it worked perfect...I rehooked up the player via the components to tv......and it played perfectly......

guess i gotta decide which to do first...buy a new cable..and return it if problem is still there....or bring back player and exchange it...

Claus, I was dieing to know what the heck is going on here so I hooked the player back up and ran the tests again at 480p over HDMI and 480p over component. The results remain the same. I also did 480i over component to test the deinterlacer in my display. The player is slightly better. One of four things are going on here.

1. I'm insane and cant differentiate fantasy from reality

2. My player is faulty but the ones that work are actually better deinterlacers than about 2 or 3 of the players ever made all for $130.

3. There is something wrong with your results, testing, etc.

4. There is something wrong with my results, testing, etc and this player is a better deinterlacer than about 2 or 3 players ever made and some video processors.


I am really interested in the difference in results

Hey Ace..I just picked up a "75" and have a 60 SXRD. What are your settings on the dvd player...I have it on 1080 and not automatic, but was wondering aout cinema settings and sharpness..

Thanks,

Lance

CC has the 75h (in stock, I hope) for $115, so I expect to pick one up today.

I normally don't buy extended warranties but, considering that this is a relatively newer product, I was wondering whether it would make sense to buy one.

Do other owners get the warranty?

CC has the 75h (in stock, I hope) for $115, so I expect to pick one up today.

I normally don't buy extended warranties but, considering that this is a relatively newer product, I was wondering whether it would make sense to buy one.

Do other owners get the warranty?

IMO it's a waste of money for a $129 item.

Standard - Contrast:80, Brightness: 53
Cinema 1 - Contrast:75, Brightness: 50
Cinema 2 - Contrast:70, Brightness: 45
hey tigershark , Are these default settings on the player or are they manually set by this user?

hey tigershark , Are these default settings on the player or are they manually set by this user?

I think those settings (out of 100) are on the TV, to get the equivalent results on the AVIA test disk for each of the DVD settings. I don't think you can adjust the DVD player picture settings on standard, cinema 1 or cinema 2.

JCPZero

Ummm, I'm voting #1 :D

Thanks for your support. :rolleyes:


I am really interested in the difference in results

I was starting to think that I was doing something wrong, but after testing it again last night and the range other players score at I'm confident in my findings.

ohhh soo he set his tv different for each dvd setting? do you get better PQ if you do that?

was the cable all along..i had bought a generic 15 foot cable on e-bay.....that was the cause..I sprung for a 12 foot A/R HDMI cable..and player works perfect..no more dropouts.....but 111.00 is a killer for a cable..and the monster's are so much more for shorter lenghts.......but now I can sit back enjoy player..the picture quality is phenominal....the best dvd player out there for upconversion and component viewing

Thanks for your support. :rolleyes:




I was starting to think that I was doing something wrong, but after testing it again last night and the range other players score at I'm confident in my findings.


As much as I would like it, I am thinking a player at this level that scores a 110 really seems unlikely

was the cable all along..i had bought a generic 15 foot cable on e-bay.....that was the cause..I sprung for a 12 foot A/R HDMI cable..and player works perfect..no more dropouts.....but 111.00 is a killer for a cable..and the monster's are so much more for shorter lenghts.......but now I can sit back enjoy player..the picture quality is phenominal....the best dvd player out there for upconversion and component viewing

I'm glad that was the problem. I gotta tell you though, $111 is brutal. I got my 25' HDMI cable from Monoprice for a great price and it works flawlessly with my player. Did you get a good return policy with that cable?

Just FYI, but the sharpness control on dvd players rarely ever work well, just about every player that i've seen that features it only ends up introducing bad ringing, similar to EE, into the image and this player, as great as it is, is no exception.

I always use the sharpness control on my monitor, 9 times out of ten it'll do a much better job than any player. BTW, I watched the Superbit version of Spider-man 2 tonight on the 75H...just WOW!!

I LOVE this player, it'll definitely make my self-imposed two year wait for either Blu-ray or HDDVD more tolerable.

ok, just watched Independence Day-- since I got this player I have only had it set on 720 (I have the Panny 900) so tonight I played with it some more and tried 1080...I know why did I not try that the first night?? Well, I have not got good results on any other so I never thought to try. But actually, the picture was quite good at 1080i - no jitters very smooth. I haven't figured out a way to view 1080 vs 720 switching quickly back and forth (anyone??) but I think to my eyes the 1080 was a go and I will continue for awhile on that mode. By the way, is Independence Day a good or bad transfer??

I also found 1080i to be preferable to 720p. Either way I'm doing some scaling because my PJ is native 576p but for whatever reason 1080i produces a more satisfying picture. This was NOT the case with the NS70h.

utente -- I decided to get their 3-year protection plan package. As I said before, I did it primarily because is gives me an unconditional 30 day return guarantee and it will take me that long to try out the HDMI performance. In addition, as observed in this thread, some units (very few) have had problems. With any brand new unit, there can be problems which show up later. Normally I would agree with cheezz, it's a waste of money, in this case, I had my personal reasons, as stated.

Ktulu_1 -- I reran the HQV again last night (Component Connections only! -- My HDMI PJ is Dead!). The only difference was that the 3:2 Detection (Race Car) should have been a "0" at 480p and a borderline "10" (better than a "5" though) on 480i (the same results I got with my RP91 DVD player - same connections). Someone said (& I can't find it) that my total was wrong, true it was wrong :eek:. The correct total should be = 103, 480p (component) and 108+, 480i (component).
Claus, I was dieing to know what the heck is going on here so I hooked the player back up and ran the tests again at 480p over HDMI and 480p over component. The results remain the same. I also did 480i over component to test the deinterlacer in my display. The player is slightly better. One of four things are going on here.

1. I'm insane and cant differentiate fantasy from reality

2. My player is faulty but the ones that work are actually better deinterlacers than about 2 or 3 of the players ever made all for $130.

3. There is something wrong with your results, testing, etc.

4. There is something wrong with my results, testing, etc and this player is a better deinterlacer than about 2 or 3 players ever made and some video processors.I, too, am curious as to why we get different results (no to all your items 1 - 4). BTW, the NS75H has a button on the front panel to switch the Progressive mode On/Off. The other difference is that you are using the HDMI connection vs. my use of the Component Connections. This difference is likely the major cause (the original HQV Test Results thread gave the early models of the Panny S97 & Oppo 971H about the same results that you got with your NS75H, and they were worse than you got with your S77 tests - I went back and looked at your Post #296).

The only other possibility that I can come up with are the differences in our displays or our NS75Hs. I'm using a Mitsubishi HC3 LCD (960 x 540) projector on a 106" diagonal screen and you're using a JVC 56", D-ILA (1280 x 720) RPTV. As such, your display, although smaller, is much more precise than mine (mine does auto detect a progressive input). Also, I don't know what processing my projector is doing to the signal ("behind my back" :rolleyes: ). I have the HC3 "auto" functions turned off - at least the ones I can get to.

When my MT700 was working (1280 x 720, DLP projector, same screen), the results I got with my Panny RP91 DVD player (also Component connections) were similar to yours. After my MT700 failed & I got the HC3 as a (cheap backup), the RP91/HC3/HQV results were about the same. You can imagine how happy I was to see the NS75H improvement. There will be some differences in our scores due to the differences in our subjective perceptions, but not 40-50 points worth.

Its too bad we're about a half a continent away from each other. It would be interesting to see our NS75Hs side by side on the same display.

Itsdon -- Maybe you can moderate this issue, since you don't live too far from me? I gather that you don't have the HQV DVD. Unfortunately, with my schedule, I will be unavailable for about 2 weeks.

The only advantage of getting the NS75H now, is that the Blu-Ray/HD-DVD war will not be settled for at least 5 years (IMHO) and the movies you want to watch will probably not be released for the next year or two.

CC has HD-DVD Players out already for $500. Walmart has a few HD-DVDs (Serenity for one).

And, think about it. What do you think you'll be calling your dvd player a year or two from now?

HD & DVD are the common terminology NOW.

Blu-Ray may not go away completely (just look at Apple). But HD-DVD is going to win.

Blu-Ray already smells of Beta. Mark my words. :D

I'm not a tekkie so I thank you in advance for the answer to my question. I currently have a 60" Sony SXRD and I am running a Panasonic DVD H1000 progressive scan player via components. I realize this player is older technology but the picture looks good.

Would I see a much improved picture with an upconverting player through HDMI?

Perhaps I should wait for Blue ray...

I'm not sure how upconversion works as it relates to my 1080 tv.

Thanks again,

Lance

You have a $4500 TV, another $500 for an HD-DVD player makes sense and it upconverts standard DVDs. Only thing is can you stand to have an RCA? You can always try it from CC and return in 30 days. Check Amazon for the number of HD-DVD titles already available, too.

CC also has a Blu-Ray for double the cost--just more evidence it's a Beta machine.

Myself, I would wait a while until something other than RCA is available in HD-DVD. I have a 1080i Panny RPTV at 60" and my 6+ year-old Panny DVD player did almost as good as the 75 does over component.

Personally, i'm not touching HD DVD until the technology has a little time to mature and prove itself dependable becuase I was one of the early adopters of DVD back in 97 and went through two players before I found one that didn't freeze up or pixelate like a mother, hell, I STILL have the occasional nightmare about the Panasonic A110! That player was so diseased from birth that a priest couldn't fix it.

Plus, there just aren't any titles at the moment, sure I have this gleaming and pretty new HD DVD player, but what am I going to watch on it right now?

And of course, price, in a couple of years I could probably buy a player for about $300, AND there will be more titles.