Dick,

I'll check tonight and post the results.

Randy,
I am debating on whether to go the envirotex route too. I'm getting ready in the next month to put down the (grooved) oak floor planking and thinking about putting down several coats of spar varnish instead because grooved planking runoff concerns.
I just checked the envirotex directions and they mention putting several light "seal coats" first...not sure that would help "build up" the grooves somewhat. It was sure good to have Neuner post his results and his lessons learned.

Worst case scenario if you encounter seepage is that you just put a final coat of Envirotex on top of everything. You're looking at about $50 extra if that's the case.

I was wondering what type of polyurethane you used on your bar. Satin, semi-gloss or high gloss - brush on or wipe on. I've been doing some samples and can't decide, I know I'm going to use high gloss on the top but not sure on the sides.

Thanks.

I used satin on the sides and high gloss on the top.

Dick,

I'll check tonight and post the results.
Randy,

Any luck in finding a manufacturer for the bar chairs?

Dick

Very nice project!

Randy,

Any luck in finding a manufacturer for the bar chairs?

Dick


Dick,

I can't find anything on the bottom of the chairs. Sorry!

Dick,

I can't find anything on the bottom of the chairs. Sorry!
Randy,

Thank you for checking.

Dick

Randy,

Any updates on the star ceiling project? Have you figured out a way to incoporate the 3 way switch?

Cheers
Calvin

Calvin,

Funny you should ask :) I ended up putting two Halo 5 inch can lights, one on each side of the star field above the front row. I covered the box with a plate. If I have to get access to it, I can pry the front of the star panel off. I took the power from the removed ceiling fan, so I still have the three way with the fan over the bar. That situation is working out okay for now. I can still turn the fan and lights off over the bar with the chains.

The wife and son helped hoist up the three panels and I brad nailed them to the firring strips. It went much smoother than I thought. You know, laying awake at night imagining how your install is going to go. I pondered it for several months. I had everything hooked up and working properly and suddenly my CoolSky LED unit would only stay on full bright. So I called FiberOpticdProducts and talked to Todd. He told me that he would send me a new chip and as he promised I received it yesterday. Installed it and all is well again. Great company. I have had the LED unit for 4 months before I installed it and they still provided great support. I still have to figure out how I'm going to trim the field out, but it was a fun project. I am going to post some pics soon.

Thanks for asking, Calvin!

try
http://www.barstools.com/
I'll probably check locally too, but this site has some really nice looking chairs and reasonable prices w/ free shipping on most.

try
http://www.barstools.com/
I'll probably check locally too, but this site has some really nice looking chairs and reasonable prices w/ free shipping on most.
Thanks for trying to help. I have been to that site. Living in Wyoming we are really limited in the shop locally.

Dick

Hi there,

I'm new to this forum but am trying to formulate a game room and would like other posters feedback who might have done something similar before or have advice. First off, all of the bars in this thread are beautiful!! I wish I had the space to devote to a whole home theater system! I'm not sure my 'vision' is feasible so I'm looking for some people to bounce my ideas off of.

My dream bar is one similar to this picture:

designworkstables.com/FeaturePour242.html

But instead of stone I want to use broken glass (blue and green mixed) with the epoxy resin on top, but thick, with lighting underneath. From the reading I've done, I know I will have to do thicker and thicker coats to get to the thickness I am looking for (how thick each coat though?). But unlike the other bars I have seen, I'm not wanting a wood bottom (so the light can get through) so I'm worried about the weight of the bar top and also how to frame it so the frame comes off and leaves a nice flat piece left.

Any feedback on what product I can use (I'm trying to be economic about it but at the same time get a bar that won't crack and that is smooth) and any suggestions for framing and ensuring that it won't crack from its own weight would be greatly appreciated!! I have fun but rowdy neighbors/friends so that's also a concern. And as repayment for advice, I solemnly promise to post my bar in process and when it's finished! :D

Thanks!!
Brandi

www before the web address, of course.

One option would be to build a box top out of pexi-glass and then attach the broken pieces to the box then epxoxy it. you would want to make some braces for the pexi-glass box though

Okay....as promised I will include some of the steps that I took to install my star ceiling. I won't get too detailed on the entire process because I simply followed others star build procedures already posted on AVS i.e. SandmanX.

First off I will say this... don't use black Celtic cloth like I did. Last night when I was taking pictures I held some black velvet up against the CC and wow did I make a mistake. Ruben said to use velvet, but nooo...I could'nt listen to the experts...

When the lights are down and there is no movie playing it looks great. However, once I fire up the Dalite HiPower I get a lot of light reflected back towards the ceiling. The star field is blacker than the black ceiling paint, but not as dark and light absorbing if I would have used the black velvet.

Use Black Velvet if you can!!!!!!!!!

Anyway...here is the first pic of the panels prior to installation. You can see how I firred out the (what I call) hardboard using 1X2s.

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y84/HeyNowWV/DSC_0071.jpg


Here is a pic of the ceiling with the firring stips installed

http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e393/heynow123/PC250013.jpg


The panels installed. You can see the firring strips, but they will be trimmed out later and won't be seen

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y84/HeyNowWV/DSC_0002.jpg

a pic with lots of ambient light. When light hits the panels they can cast a different shade of black.
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y84/HeyNowWV/DSC_0006.jpg

The following are a couple of shots while the movie is playing....must have been some blue on the screen!

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y84/HeyNowWV/DSC_0015.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y84/HeyNowWV/DSC_0014.jpg

now with the projector off and a bit of ambient light

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y84/HeyNowWV/DSC_0025.jpg

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y84/HeyNowWV/DSC_0022.jpg

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y84/HeyNowWV/DSC_0023.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y84/HeyNowWV/DSC_0026.jpg

Now sure what I will do, take them down and begin anew or what. Learn from my mistakes!

Where did you run your fiber to? Did you hid it through the ceiling and to the illuminator?

Bud

Bud,

All of the fibers (two runs for each panel) exit at the projector. I think I'm going to build a box above the projector to house the small LED unit.

HeyNow..

I have been reading this forum now for about two months and want to thank you for all of the great ideas. I had already started building my bar area in my basement and was not sure ho to proceed, but your posts really made things clear for me. I started with a very dark, damp, dingy basement and it is starting to look like a GREAT gathering spot.

Unfortunately I haven't taken ANY pictures so far, which is a shame becuase you can't imagine the difference....

My question is about the Enviro-tex......I installed the pre-finished flooring tonigh fo rthe bar top and am planning on adding the Enviro-tex tomorrow or Monday. Did you use anything to fill the gaps in the flooring so the epoxy wouldn't seep through?

I am thinking of applying a couple of coats of poly to seal it, then adding the epoxy, but I thought I would check in with you first to see what your thoughts are...

Also, I heard somewhere that using a blow torch to "wand" over the epoxy makes getting the bubbles out very easy. Any advice to add about this?

Thanks again for making this porject a LOT easier!

KPECOD

KPECOD,

Thanks for the kind words. And good luck on your build.

Irmo or Neuner will probably reply since they both used the enviortex. I will let them respond to your questons.

KPECOD - I used flooring planks for my bar top (just like you and Randy) but I didn't seal the gaps before applying the Envirotex. I would recommend it though because even though the Envirotex is thick stuff (much thicker than Poly), it WILL run through any gaps you have in your countertop. I can very much attest to that. You definitely want to seal the planks and poly might be a good idea for that, but you'll probably have to do several coats of that for just the same reason.

As for the blowtorch, that is what the Envirotex instructions actually recommend. Not having a blow torch, I used a hair dryer to decent effect but found that actually blowing on the surface works better. There really is something about the carbon dioxide that makes those bubbles surface and pop. Unfortunately, if you have a large bar area (like I did), that involves a LOT of blowing. I literally got light-headed many times when I did mine. A blow torch would be a good idea.

Btw, here is my thread on my bar build. You can see some of the pics of the countertop there:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=891879

And here is Neuner's thread specifically about coating a bar top with envirotex.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=818487

HeyNow,

The starfield ceiling looks good. Actually, everything looks good. Well done. Now have a beer.

John

Thanks John.....tweaking the star field.....

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y84/HeyNowWV/shadehouse.jpg

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y84/HeyNowWV/Picture206.jpg

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y84/HeyNowWV/flagmountain.jpg

Beautiful house and property!!!

Thanks RobZ.

Minor update, the Envirotex is getting delivered today via UPS. I plan on applying it to a table top I made for the wife next to her theater chair :) I will also apply to my bar top. I'm going to wait a bit until things warm up. My understanding is that it sets up if the temps are consistantly above 70 degrees. I'm looking forward to the pour. It should go pretty easy, my gaps are already filled. Irmo and Nuener's looks awesome. I think I paid $54 for the one gallon kit. It should cover 32 sq. feet. I don't have that much to cover, but I figure a couple of coats will use most of it up. Not bad. Wish me luck!

Sounds like you're all set. I think you'll really like the results.

Good luck!

Anxious to see the results.

Remember, it's the CO2 that eliminates the bubbles not the heat. I used a blow torch held 12-inches from the surface and it worked great. Blowing on it gets you way too dizzy.

I still have some oil ring looking marks which you can only see with the glare which I think came from holding the torch too close so be careful.

Thanks Guys...I have been scouring your threads on the procedures that you both used. Along with the great instructions that the company provides, it should go smoothly. I just hope it turns out half as good as both of your tops.

I still have some oil ring looking marks which you can only see with the glare which I think came from holding the torch too close so be careful.

Neuner,

I also have the same oil ring marks on my bar that you can only see with the glare. The difference is I didnt use a torch. I wish I would have because i couldnt blow on the bar top without the nearly passing out. I used a blow dryer but that didnt work very well. I do have some very small bubbles that can only be seen by looking closely, but I still love the envirotex.

Neuner,

I also have the same oil ring marks on my bar that you can only see with the glare. The difference is I didnt use a torch.

With more people using this product I think we need to find out what is the causing the marks. If I ever get some free time I'll try and call the company to find out. I do notice that the top is just slightly rougher where the marks are but it's so minute. I applied a car wax to the top and it actually helped it a little bit, plus it's cool being able to slide a beer glass the full length of the bar like in the movies :D. Right now I'm guessing it might be from later popped bubbles leaving a little bit of roughness.

How do you have your helmets secured to the side? I have a large collection and Ive outgrown the storage area. Thanks

FootballDen,

Simple. "L" shaped hooks screwed into the stud. Then hang through the ear hole in the helmet. Cheap and simple.

Let's see some pics of your collection!

Id love to show off my theater but i cant figure out how to post pictures, Im a mental midget when it comes to this stuff. I just built a giant ottoman/slash couch on my riser. I added a ton of eagle stuff that is signed when i went on a nice poker run in dec/jan

My wife wanted a table beside her chair. I had some decent plywood left over from another project and a few 2X3's. I cut the top and bottom to match. Used veneer tape around the plywood edge. I screwed the 2X3s in various places leaving a rather deep lip. Here is where it get's weird. I stuffed the inside of the 2X3's with OC 703. I then took some black Celtic cloth and steached it around the 2X3s. I then tacked and stained oak strips from top to bottom over the 2X3s and celtic cloth, enviorntexed the top and that was it. Cheap if you have the extra wood and other parts. I'll post a couple of pics tonight. And it absorbs some low frequencies to boot.

Edit, Hope this gives you some ideas;

you can see where the 2X3s are screwed to the top

http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e393/heynow123/DSC_0009.jpg
http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e393/heynow123/DSC_0010.jpg
http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e393/heynow123/DSC_0011.jpg
http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e393/heynow123/DSC_0013.jpg
with the top on
http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e393/heynow123/DSC_0015.jpg
http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e393/heynow123/DSC_0014.jpg
http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e393/heynow123/DSC_0016.jpg
http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e393/heynow123/DSC_0017.jpg

That looks great!

thnaks for the idea, hey where do you get your helmets at and do you get them cheaper tehn usual? I have 5 full sized ones, south carolina and 4 hs ones from the area. Im not too big on pro but would like to get an eagles helmet for cheap

I get all of my helmets/footballs at http://www.creativesportsent.com/

I like doing business with them. Bud mentioned FleaBay but I haven't tried there. Now, I'm not sure if it's the cheapest place, but I have all of them now, except the updated ones (Atlanta/SanDiego/Vikings). I am satisfied with what I have for now.

thnaks for the idea, hey where do you get your helmets at and do you get them cheaper tehn usual? I have 5 full sized ones, south carolina and 4 hs ones from the area. Im not too big on pro but would like to get an eagles helmet for cheap

Hello from one USC fan to another...I'm pretty much a regular in HeyNow's threads. ;)

Hello from one USC fan to another...I'm pretty much a regular in HeyNow's threads. ;)


Yeah, IRMO is one of my Enviortex consultants... :)

Randy, table looks great. Is it acoustically transparent? Did you really stuff it with insulation? :p

I'm actually still in search of a good table that would pop into the cupholder in the Berks. I have found a really nice one (actually at work), but it's part of some mobile work furniture line. Well made, but I haven't found any pricing on it yet. I have a few leads there I just need to track down.

Bud

Oh yeah, see your making progress on that column too. What are your plans for that?

Bud

Yeah, IRMO is one of my Enviortex consultants... :)

Only in exchange for being my bar-build consultant. It's like an AVS barter system. :D

Good morning Bud,

Yeah...it's stuffed with one 2X4 peice of OC 703. :) And the materiel is AT. If you stand anywhere near it you can tell it's there. The wife used to use a fold up tv tray table. I had one of those days that no matter what I was buidling in the theater it just didn't seem to be going right. I needed to make something, regardless of how simple it was, way out in left field to energize my creative juices. So in about an hour, I knocked this thing out. I figured if it sucked, I could make an nice bon fire with it this summer.

The wife loves it. And I got to test out my enviortex pour prior to using it on my bar top.

I have surrounded the Pole with 2X8s and drilled access holes for speaker wire. I have my side surround for my 7.1 speakers installed. I am going to skin it with MDF and oak veneer and then trim it out.

On the cupholder thingy...I have SS cup inserts that slide into the plastic cupholders installed in my 090s. They are about 3.5- 4 inches deep, maybe more. I was thinking that I could make a thin lightweight table, cut a hole large enough for the SS insert and then put the insert with the table attached back into the chair....maybe it would work.

Randy,

I thought about making a table insert just as you described, was thinking about filling the mounted cup with something to give it more stability and weight, like BBs or ball bearings or something. That would help with tipping if there are any gaps in the cup holder or if someone accidentally stood up while the tablr was in place, it woudn't just fly off. Still chewing on that idea, also a little bit easier and time consuming than doing a star ceiling.

Bud

Randy - I finally got a chance to see your table pic above (it was blocked the last time I was in this thread). Nice work!

Thanks IRMO...Don't you hate those work blockers that won't let you see Photobucket? :) I really enjoyed the short pour of the Envirotex. I learned a couple of things, like don't use a foam brush....I think it left some foam behind. level what ever it is you are pouring on, before you start to pour.

I played for them in the early 90s, good times down there. 5 points on a thursday night was a blast, the old **** pit and PUGS II on a Saturday Night. Wow good times!

I played for them in the early 90s, good times down there. 5 points on a thursday night was a blast, the old **** pit and PUGS II on a Saturday Night. Wow good times!

FootballDen,

You sound a lot like ManTown..... hmmm....he seems to have disappeared.

My old computer crashed and didnt feel like going through the trouble of recovering all the information, gotta love technology

Ha! Where are you pictures of the bar you promised! Come on Brother!

out how to post the damn things, i got a ton of pics, just cant post them

Thanks IRMO...Don't you hate those work blockers that won't let you see Photobucket? :) I really enjoyed the short pour of the Envirotex. I learned a couple of things, like don't use a foam brush....I think it left some foam behind. level what ever it is you are pouring on, before you start to pour.

Yeah, I wish I had told you...a cheap dollar-store spatula (the flexible kind that you can ice a cake with) works best...all you need is something to push the stuff around...

I played for them in the early 90s, good times down there. 5 points on a thursday night was a blast, the old **** pit and PUGS II on a Saturday Night. Wow good times!

Pretty funny - You must've played for Sparky. We're about the same age then. The PUGS reference is hilarious. It's been a dozen different names since it was PUGS.

Sparky Woods, what a jackass. We had a ton of talent on that team. Hell he wasnt running it all the way, Tommy West was. Then he left and headed to clemson. I miss it down there. I transfered and moved back up north. Wish i woulda stayed down there and got my degree. They were offering a medical scholarship but being young nad dumb i decided that i was there to play football and left cause i couldnt do it anymore. I want to get down there for a gmae, the tailgating is second to none. My buddy is a penns state guy and swears nothing can touch slappy valley.

Were you there for the "player revolt" in 1992? I always wondered what the heck was happening with that. After the revolt, they reeled off 5 out of 6 wins, and came within a Brandon Bennett half-back pass of beating Florida in the swamp. I remember that season just like it was yesterday, really hard to believe it's been 16 years.

I was jsut off surgery when it happened. My roomate, ponytailed dude from PA? Came in and was like f woods hes a prick. Next thing i know im sitting in a meeting with the whole team refusing to go out to practice. Woods was being loyal to the one senior qb we had and everyone in the state including the players wanted the mouth to start. THis is where the lack of respect for woods comes in. He comes in and says get your butts on that bus. No one moves. Tommy west sits down and looks at everyone and says "i know you all will do the right thing and get on the bus hen i walk outta here or ill break y foot off in each and everyone of your asses." Everyone got on the bus and practiced. We had a new qb that week and had the first every bowl win over wvu two years later

My roomate, ponytailed dude from PA?

Gee, I wonder who that could be?????? :D

Awesome story, I don't want to derail Randy's thread any further, but thanks for sharing.

NICE BAR. But I don't see any Patron?? :)

You don't see anyone??? :) who would you like to see?

very cool bar. i like the wood top idea. heres a couple pics of mine. i still need to do the edging and doors. only been a year :D

http://a850.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images01/47/l_6cb24be9f48295a8a7930ccb3652c5a9.jpg

http://a513.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images01/59/l_e50d82036a309d427ad6755e17467af8.jpg

ill have to take some better pictures.

actually, heres a little better picture of the color...i was taking the paneling down and re-drywalling and musta snapped a picture of the bar.

http://www.crawlinvette.com/home/basement/slides/DSCF3150.JPG

2 outlets on the topside, and 3 on the bottom. lighting on both sides as well :) hooked up the water and drain for a wet bar too. the paneling is down and it doesnt clash anymore.

Wow....RoyBell amazing styling. Is that bar top enviorntex? Tell me that the family and friends hate that thang! :)

Wow....RoyBell amazing styling. Is that bar top enviorntex? Tell me that the family and friends hate that thang! :)
It sure looks like envirotex. If not, I'll bet it's many, many coats of poly. I really like that high gloss sheen on bar tops.

Thanks heynow. It is indeed enviortex. i got the 1 gallon setup for like a 60? bucks at menards. I have another one in the garage that i may throw on top after another year or so. imo, without that on top, it just an "ok" bar. i get comments on the top all the time and it is really durable as well. ive adopted some cats after i put the first layer on, so im not quite sure how i am going to apply the second layer as it takes a good week+ for it to cure.

maybe ill get motivated to finish it next month ;) heres my build process: http://www.crawlinvette.com/bar/

before this i had never touched a piece of wood before :)

Roy,
Love the bar. I do have a few questions. I was looking at your arm rail and it looks like it is only eld on/up by that small front lip. Is this stable? I notice that a lot of others have used a second layer under their top that extends farther out that the arm rest lays on.

Also was wondering about the top. Is there a reason that you didn't do the two pieces that make up the top as a diaganol to have the grain match up a little better? Are there construction concerns in doing it that way?

How did the application go on the bar rail? I would imagine it's brushed on? Does it leave any noticeable brush strokes? How many coats?

Roy,
Love the bar. I do have a few questions. I was looking at your arm rail and it looks like it is only eld on/up by that small front lip. Is this stable? I notice that a lot of others have used a second layer under their top that extends farther out that the arm rest lays on.

Also was wondering about the top. Is there a reason that you didn't do the two pieces that make up the top as a diaganol to have the grain match up a little better? Are there construction concerns in doing it that way?

It's extremely sturdy. I put nails on the underside about every 4inches :) Through the plywood into the rail. I also had put a little construction adhesive on it as well. She ain't moving.

I am not sure what you mean by diagonal...but the grains are going different directions for the reason that it was cheaper. At 60 bucks a sheet I wasn't about to waste a whole sheet to get the grain to go the same direction. Plus I don't have a table saw. I had the lumbar store rip all the boards I needed so all I had to do was slap them on and only make the short cuts. Ideally I would have used a whole sheet on the log leg and cut it out in an L, plus for the beer gutter. However, I don't have enough tools, or money for that :)

I had the lumbar store rip all the boards I needed so all I had to do was slap them on and only make the short cuts. Ideally I would have used a whole sheet on the log leg and cut it out in an L, plus for the beer gutter. However, I don't have enough tools, or money for that :)

I did the same thing. Much easier.

It's extremely sturdy. I put nails on the underside about every 4inches :) Through the plywood into the rail. I also had put a little construction adhesive on it as well. She ain't moving.

I am not sure what you mean by diagonal...but the grains are going different directions for the reason that it was cheaper. At 60 bucks a sheet I wasn't about to waste a whole sheet to get the grain to go the same direction. Plus I don't have a table saw. I had the lumbar store rip all the boards I needed so all I had to do was slap them on and only make the short cuts. Ideally I would have used a whole sheet on the log leg and cut it out in an L, plus for the beer gutter. However, I don't have enough tools, or money for that :)

I wasn't really talking about cutting the top as one large piece I was more thinking about the cut going from the outside corner to the inside corner like if you were butting two pieces of trim together in a corner. Does that make sense? Should be same amount of wood. I guess it might be a little more work.

I think strider's talking about a miter cut. I can see what he means now, by looking at the pictures. My bar has the flooring planks used at the bar surface meet in sort of an overlapping diagonal too, but I think it's just personal preference.

I get what you mean. It would have been extremely hard (for me) to get a perfect 45 degree angle on both pieces. Plus I'm not a carpenter :) Although that probably would look pretty sweet.

I get what you mean. It would have been extremely hard (for me) to get a perfect 45 degree angle on both pieces. Plus I'm not a carpenter :) Although that probably would look pretty sweet.


Understood. Wasn't criticizing. The bar looks great just waasn't sure if there was another reason that you did it that way.

Getting prepared to pour the EnviorTex on Sunday. I think I will take some step by step photos and post them.

So your're finally going to do it! Can't wait to see and hear about the results.
Good Luck.

Good luck, Randy!

How did the EnviorTex go? I am waiting for your update before I pour my bar.

Yeah, whats the deal, slacker!

Bud

Okay.... I'm guilty of being a wannabe Loganator. However! Today, I cut and stained a new front rail that will fit into the slot in the prefinished flooring so it will have a gradual step down into the drip tray. I didn't like the broad grain of the front rail (as in the bartenders view), so I had some left over oak straight grain ply that I worked on today and it looks marvolous. So, it's was like 95 degrees here this weekend and the humidity was like Atlanta in August. I go out the basement door to work and cut my plywood on my bench that I built outside the covered basement area and discovered some visitors....Two enormoumous hornet nests were built under my bench.....so after I slay the damn hornets, in the wet heat, I pulled a muscle in my back. This was at the beginning of my build! But not to be like Tom Logan... I continued....swarming hornets and all...I sounded like a grunting Mule in heat everytime I moved a certain way when the back spasms took hold. I did get it done and am waiting for it to dry so I can *grunt* hopefully pour tomorrow....*grunt*....drugs and alcohol have been applied in moderation and hope to get back to it tomorrow.

I just want you guys to know that i just so happened to click on this thread and have been reading it, jumping link to link, thread to thread, back and forth for the past two hours and LOVE IT! now you have it in my head to work on my bar instead of my kitchen project the wife wants me to complete! :) ha! thanks!
i have some pic's of my "Man Cave" I will have to post.. it is a mess, just moved in a few months ago.. haven't touched it other than setting up the arcade machine/pool table/ and kegerator! (priorities) :D

Who needs a kitchen?

Who needs a kitchen?


You need somewhere to stick the women folk :D

I just want you guys to know that i just so happened to click on this thread and have been reading it, jumping link to link, thread to thread, back and forth for the past two hours and LOVE IT! now you have it in my head to work on my bar instead of my kitchen project the wife wants me to complete! :) ha! thanks!
i have some pic's of my "Man Cave" I will have to post.. it is a mess, just moved in a few months ago.. haven't touched it other than setting up the arcade machine/pool table/ and kegerator! (priorities) :D

We are like a support group. We inspire, encourage, and advise others like us who have a love for electronics, some free space in our homes and a toolbox.:)

I've seen some amazing rooms on this forum in all different levels. From the college kid's 1st home theater to multiple home theater setups picked to be published in nation magazines. So welcome to AVS and feel free to ask any questions and make sure you start a link of your build with photos.

Anyone here ever use this http://www.uscomposites.com/kk121.html instead of Envirotex? I think I like the idea in the application directions of doing a seal coat first to help prevent bubbles.

I completed my initial pour on Tuesday evening. I mixed up a combined 96 oz of EnviroTex. Every thing went pretty smoothly as far as the pour and the mixed amount was spot on. I used Duct Tape as a dam around the bar so I wouldn’t get much drip off. I used a torch as others have to release some of the bubbles. It was smooth as glass. I called the wife down to the basement and she was amazed at how good it looked. After it set up a bit, I pulled the Duct Tape off.

All was going very smoothly...

Until…..I decided that I should cover the bar so I could keep the airborne dust down. I thought I would straddle the bar with some long furring strips and lay a plastic drop cloth over it for the night. This was a decision that was made about an hour or so after my pour. While I was positioning the plastic over the furring strips, the plastic sheet came in contact with the EnviorTex. When I pulled it off, it created swirls in the finish since it was begining to set up. I was pissed!

So last night I poured 16 oz over the entire surface to level it out. It worked out pretty well. I may still have to do one more pour to even everything out.

Advice for anyone who is going to do this;

1. Go to Lowes or HD and pick up several plastic bucket containers from the paint section that have measurements marked on the outside. They come in several sizes. Get two of each! They are worth the money!
2. The product is very easy to work with and you have plenty of time to move it over the surface.
3. Don’t rush!
4. Get a couple of plastic bench scrapers to move the material around.
5. Plan and assemble your cover before you begin your pour.
6. I would recommend that you assemble it before you pour (did I say that twice?) :)
7. Yes, you need a dust cover!

I highly recommend this product! I’m just a klutz that plans poorly! I did take pictures and will try and post them when I get home tonight.

Okay...here we go...mix
http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e393/heynow123/089.jpg

Dam in place...
http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e393/heynow123/085.jpg

http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e393/heynow123/102.jpg
http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e393/heynow123/101.jpg
http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e393/heynow123/100.jpg

Poured....
http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e393/heynow123/096.jpg
http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e393/heynow123/095.jpg
http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e393/heynow123/094.jpg

:)

Soon to be pushed back in place..

Thanks Randy for the info and pics. I'm headed for vacation for 2 weeks and will be ready to apply when I get back. (well atleast by footbal season)

Wow...Nice job! It really turned out great. Did the duct tape do a good job of containing the pour?

Looks great. After you pull the dam tape, what does the edge look like?

Bud

The duct tape worked perfectly. It kept the edge pretty clean. I poured so there was very little run off. The edge is raised a bit. You can see a bit in one corner, I just wiped it up.

it looks good. i will have to remember to try this when (if ever) i complete my bar

so if i was going to start my own thread on my game room/ sports bar.. do i have to have my pictures loaded on this site or just link them from another site (ie. photobucket) to post them? guessing link them.. just checking before i post.. i have pictures of what my "man cave" looks like now- but i have a few ideas for it in the future and also want to get others opinions on what I should do or what they think I should do.. hey.. brainstorming always helps!

Yep, just link them from Photobucket or whatever site you use. I think you need a minimum of 5 posts first. Looks like you are well on your way.

great.. well i will make my 5 post.. :) and... :P

then i will go ahead and start a thread with the pictuers and floorplan of mine and see what you "experts" think

oh look.. i made 5 post.. :) haha

ok i started my thread and posted a floor plan along with some pictures of what it looks like now..

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1051624

My wife wanted a table beside her chair. I had some decent plywood left over from another project and a few 2X3's. I cut the top and bottom to match. Used veneer tape around the plywood edge. I screwed the 2X3s in various places leaving a rather deep lip. Here is where it get's weird. I stuffed the inside of the 2X3's with OC 703. I then took some black Celtic cloth and steached it around the 2X3s. I then tacked and stained oak strips from top to bottom over the 2X3s and celtic cloth, enviorntexed the top and that was it. Cheap if you have the extra wood and other parts. I'll post a couple of pics tonight. And it absorbs some low frequencies to boot.

Edit, Hope this gives you some ideas;

you can see where the 2X3s are screwed to the top

Hmmmm... wonder where I got this idea..... :D

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y139/BlackHawk2k/Home%20Theater/128.jpg

Thanks!!

My pleasure....you do know that you have it turned the wrong way :) Besides, it's Patent Pending...

My pleasure....you do know that you have it turned the wrong way :) Besides, it's Patent Pending...

Yes, I realize that. But I was informed I had it the wrong way by the boss :rolleyes:. Hence it's current position. Something about aesthetics and continuity. For the sake of argument it was turned around and now another one is in the works as well. I figure what the heck, she let me build the entire room without any complaints so it's the least I could do.

Rick

do you have a riser back there? If you do, it's awfully hard to see!

Yes I do. 2x8's with 2 layers of 3/4" T&G osb. Every pic I've taken of it turns out that way, barely able to tell it's there without looking hard. The carpet is the culprit I'm sure.
Here's a couple examples....

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y139/BlackHawk2k/Home%20Theater/130.jpg

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y139/BlackHawk2k/Home%20Theater/125.jpg

Very nice!

This is for CaptnRandini,


This is the long side that goes against the wall. You can see where the rope light begins. This is a very telling cross section of the build.

http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e393/heynow123/P2060015.jpg


There you have it CaptnRandy!

HeyNow,

Correct me if I am wrong but the bar top cross section shows materials in this order correct:
Fom bottom up:
1. 3/4" Ply
2. 3/4" Harwood Flooring
- Was it pre finished?
3. Layer of envirotex

I am looking for this information so I can plan on matierial ans I am putting the same type of bar top on my bar but with different materials. I will have a maple bar rail and I am thinking of Tigerwoord or Zebra wood flooring for the top. Its hard to find in 20 sq ft boxes though. Most places want you to buy at least 500 sq ft.

Thanks!

Brett

Brett,

You are correct. Yes, it was prefinished and the gaps were filled. Good luck.

I am looking for this information so I can plan on matierial ans I am putting the same type of bar top on my bar but with different materials. I will have a maple bar rail and I am thinking of Tigerwoord or Zebra wood flooring for the top. Its hard to find in 20 sq ft boxes though. Most places want you to buy at least 500 sq ft.


I'm not sure about Randy, but I used leftover hardwood flooring for my bar build (I still have plenty left). If you need small amounts, you should cruise Lowes/HomeDepot regularly and check their clearance sections in flooring. I see small amounts of hardwood planks there all the time.

Irmo,

He is talking some pretty exotic flooring...I've never seen much exotic wood at HD or Lowes.

Ah, yeah, I see now. That's true, I don't recall seeing anything that fancy there either.

That would certainly look awesome though.

Brett,

You are correct. Yes, it was prefinished and the gaps were filled. Good luck.

So when you filled the gaps, did you only use polyurathane or something else? And you did this prior to the envirotex correct?

Same filler you use on regular hardwood flooring prior to sanding and sealing. Then I applied another coat of poly ...but if you are going with Enviortex, skip the poly step.

Here is a place that has 20 sqft cartons of Tigerwood http://www.carpet-wholesale.com/item_135443/Hardwood/Hartco/Global_Exotics/Tigerwood_Natural_3-1/2_Inch.php

You would have to raise your base as its only 3/8 inch. Not a bad price since I paid $70 for the oak.

Looking on that same link I found this sweet look flooring that I may get for mine.

http://www.carpet-wholesale.com/item_105706/Hardwood/Hartco/Century_Farm_3_Inch_Hand_Sculpted/Cherry_Earth_Tone.php

You would have to raise your base as its only 3/8 inch. Not a bad price since I paid $70 for the oak.

True. You would need to put an extra 1/2" piece of plywood down for a base on top of the 3/4" that's already down.

http://i415.photobucket.com/albums/pp239/LSWHO/Websitepics361.jpg

Here's my bar that i am in the process of finishing. Went with a copper top for a different look. now comes the envirotex...HeyNow Thanks again for your post, it has helped alot of us out.

Another shot ,,,sorry the pictures are from my cell phone, not the best quality.
http://i415.photobucket.com/albums/pp239/LSWHO/0924082214b.jpg

http://i415.photobucket.com/albums/pp239/LSWHO/0925081741a.jpg

http://i415.photobucket.com/albums/pp239/LSWHO/0925081741a.jpg


That's a cool idea. Where did you get the copper and what did it cost you? Was it already beaten or did you do that yourself? I was thinking that might look pretty cool on the front of my bar where I created the fake raised panels using the picture frame type trim. Put that in the middle of each frame.

Do you think you will have any problem getting the Envirotex to bond with the coper?

str1der - I covered the copper with a spray called "copper shield" this stops the patina look from happening ( I don't want it to turn the greenish color and want it to stay as is) and also allows a top coat such as laquer to be applied to it. I tested it on some scrap 6" x6" pieces with the spray then the envirotex and it worked fine. I am hoping the much larger piece still works fine. I also bought the copper in a rolled up sheet and plain. I then cleaned it with wenol and then used a drill with a wire brush to give it the swirls and three dimensional look. this also made scratches on the copper which helped the spray to adhere to. So i am confindent it should hold up as well. I'll let you know when it is done though foresure.

That's a cool idea. Where did you get the copper and what did it cost you? Was it already beaten or did you do that yourself? I was thinking that might look pretty cool on the front of my bar where I created the fake raised panels using the picture frame type trim. Put that in the middle of each frame.

I bought it from a place called storm copper (google and you'll find the website). It was around a $85 bucks for the .10 thick 12 x 10 ft rolled up sheet. (free shipping) It was easy to cut, mold etc. I used DAP contact cement for metal (red can) and applied it on the wood and metal and used a J roller to smooth it out. I made 3 panels like this and rolled the edges around the sides. I then took a drill with a wire brush and made the circle swirls in it. in person it looks really cool but hard to get it on a picture.

Nice work, I replied in your bar thread....thanks for posting your results.

Nice work, I replied in your bar thread....thanks for posting your results.

Randy thanks for posting in my new thread, it's an honor. I envy your full size helmets collection, I could onnly afford the mini helmets and they still cost me $500 bucks for all 32 teams.... I only have 5 full size but I still need to get the alternative or retro mini helmets or maybe college wonder how that will go over with the wife.....

HeyNow...did you know your bar plans are listed here (http://www.homepokertourney.com/build-a-home-bar.htm)?

Hey, if anyone can use any of the ideas of the MANY contributers that posted on this thread, go for it! I wish I had seen some of the fine examples of bars that were posted in this thread and others on AVS before I started...

Heynow - what kegerator do you have and any thoughts on it? Or did you convert an existing fridge?

Not sure, but you can see the same unit at Superior Products. I wouldn't buy it there....since it is too pricey. I have had my unit more than seven years and I have zero complaints. The wife got it for me one Christmas. I have seen very nice units at Sams Club.

Not sure, but you can see the same unit at Superior Products. I wouldn't buy it there....since it is too pricey. I have had my unit more than seven years and I have zero complaints. The wife got it for me one Christmas. I have seen very nice units at Sams Club.

Well as always I jumped and purchased one from Haier and after Dinger23 sent me a link to a forum on all of the Kegerators I found out the Haier is one of the problem ones...LOL, we'll see though some peoples junk is another mans gold. When it comes to beer though it better work. :D Did you do any mods to yours? What temp do you have yours set at?

Dennis
I have a friend that has a Haier and has not had any problems after he figured out his CO2 pressure. I've never owned one and I know many people on that forum I sent you have had some issues. I'd suggest that you test how low you can get the liquid temp and if it meet the temp that your beer needs to be than your set.

I used to have my Kegerator set to the lowest temp I could get. After battling frozen beer lines which of course caused foam city, I backed off on the temp just a bit. When you first put a keg in, give it 48-72 hours to get up to temp. I know that seems like a long time, but you are dealing with 15.5 gallons of liquid with a 1/2 keg.

Remember to let it set a few hours before you tap (if you can). I have my CO2 set at 10 psi. Before I add CO2, I release all pressure in the keg. Then turn on the CO2 and let her rip!

I haven't done any modes as others have, i.e. putting a different t-stat on it to lower the temp. Mine is perfect. Relax and pour :)

Okay thanks for the tips randy. It is suppose to be here today or tomorrow so I may have some more questions for ya.

Dennis

Waiting a few hours to tap the keg?:eek: Is that possible? All kidding aside that is good advice. Many people slap the keg into the kegerator, tap it right away and wonder why they have foam. Then they keep openning the door and messing with the psi dropping the temp of the beer.

You would have to raise your base as its only 3/8 inch. Not a bad price since I paid $70 for the oak.

Randy,

What exactly did you do the seal/fill the cracks between the hardwood planks before laying the envirotex. The hardwood that I got is prefinished and I am not sure how to "seal" just the joints/cracks to prevent bubbling and unevenness when the envirotex is poured.

I behalf of everyone here, thanks for all your tips, tricks, and help.

Brett

Just use a wood filler over the entire area. The same kind they use to finish wood floors prior to stain and finish. It won't harm the top finish. You DO NOT have to put a finish on the filler prior to pouring Etex. The Etex will stick to anything (except Dennis' Bar Rail :) ).

Just use a wood filler over the entire area. The same kind they use to finish wood floors prior to stain and finish. It won't harm the top finish. You DO NOT have to put a finish on the filler prior to pouring Etex. The Etex will stick to anything (except Dennis' Bar Rail :) ).

HEY NOW !!!!! now I understand your screen name... and I thought it was a Howard Stern thing... :)

This thread needs a bump and I vote for it to be a sticky

Heynow I have a question for you if you don't mind. I'm looking to build a barback similar to yours, I was wondering if you could let me know what some of the dimensions are: mainly the size of each box on the side and the size of the area were the middle is, and the size mirror you used. Yours is very visually pleasing and I dont want to build one that looks out of proportion.

Thanks,
Brian

Lefty,

Let's start from the bottom and work our way up. This is so simple, you will say, duh.

Bottom = 1X6 92 1/4" long - Solid oak - with waist trim

Box (2 ea) = 1X6 21 3/4 " wide by 3 feet high - Solid oak - with holes drilled for shelves plus trim. Back is 1/4 rabbit with 1/4 plywood backing to fit. Waist trim on front left and right sides only

Top = 1X6 92 1/4" long - Solid oak- trimmed with Oak Crown molding

Mirror is 4' X 3' Lowes beveled.

Edited when I got home...close before someone checks my math... :)

How easy was that?

Good luck.

This thread needs a bump and I vote for it to be a sticky

I second the sticky vote.

Go Buckeyes! :)

I appreciate the info, how do you have the mirror mounted inside the middle box, also how do you have the entire barback mounted (I think I see some mounting brackets at the bottom, is that all that holds it)?

Again, I really appreciate the help.
Brian

Brian,

The mirror is mounted in a channel at the bottom and clips at the top. The bottom shelf is sitting on the two brackets at the bottom. The boxes are screwed to the wall just like mounting wall cabinets. You can screw the bottom shelf to the boxes and eliminate the brackets. I just didn't feel like patching the wall after I mounted the boxes and screwed the bottom shelf to them.

Looked nice！The house looked tidy！Cool！ I like it！
__________________

bagssky

Go Buckeyes! :)

So since your Skins are slipping you are just focusing on Saturday football?

I still have hope!

looking good as always

Awesome job

HeyNow, I have one last question if you don't mind. I was wondering how long your brass glass racks are and were you bought them. I built my barback this weekend and my middle (were the mirror will be) is exactly 48" wide, so I don't know if two 24" will allow me to put glassware in the rack.

thanks again,
Brian

Brian,

If you have 48.75 inches between boxes like I do, then the 24 inch glass rack will work. Install them with the entrance of the racks facing each other. So you will start the glass base in the middle of your mirror. It makes a perfect circle to tip the glass base in and then slide them into the left rack or the right rack. Some glass bases may be too big to fit into the rack because of the 1X6 space you have to work with. Make sense?

Looking up at the installed racks.

Correct version: |========{ }=========|


Incorrect version: }=========||========={

Don't do it like this you won't have room to put your glass base into the rack from the outside edge near your boxes.

Sounds like you may be 3/4 of an inch shy. Just order the next size smaller rack. That would be 16 " racks see linky below.

http://www.barproducts.com/index.php?link=/media/5430.html


Barproducts.com.....cheap and quick.

I appreciate the advice, I'm going to have to measure one more time to make sure but I'm fairly sure I'm exactly 48"..... what I wouldn't give for an extra 3/4" (for the glass rack).

Do you have some kind of light on the bottle shelf below the mirror? I was thinking of mounting a blue rope light but I'm not exactly sure how to hide it and hide the wiring.

I have white rope light behind the bottles.

I still have hope!

Any hope against my Giants this weekend?

Happy Thanksgiving!!

You know you guys are just jealous of my Bengals. :)

I hope you all had a great TurkeyDay....

Dinger, the Giants a bit two stout for us this year....

Str1der,

Maybe OcoChooChootrain needs to find another team?

I hope you all had a great TurkeyDay....

Dinger, the Giants a bit two stout for us this year....

Str1der,

Maybe OcoChooChootrain needs to find another team?

I wish Mike Brown would find a new team.

You know you guys are just jealous of my Bengals. :)

It can't get any worse than here in Detroit......First the Wolverines now the Lions :eek: good thing we still have the Wings, (Pistons - debateble). Honorable mentions: The auto industry mess, Detroit's Mayors scandel, foreclosures ....
Can I jump on the GIANTS or TITANS bandwagon? Please ....

Hi,
New here, found you guys by looking for ideas to build my bar. This forum is very helpfull. Building bar , no experience, would like to share, but cant upload pictures, is it too big, 2,3MB each?

Hi,
New here, found you guys by looking for ideas to build my bar. This forum is very helpfull. Building bar , no experience, would like to share, but cant upload pictures, is it too big, 2,3MB each?


many use photobucket.com to upload and link photos here

It can't get any worse than here in Detroit......First the Wolverines now the Lions :eek: good thing we still have the Wings, (Pistons - debateble). Honorable mentions: The auto industry mess, Detroit's Mayors scandel, foreclosures ....
Can I jump on the GIANTS or TITANS bandwagon? Please ....

As a life long New York fan (Yankees, Giants, Syracuse) I think this is the 1st time I ever heard someone asking to jump on our bandwagon. So as a NY fan I have to say no:p We have to suffer far worse than anyone else during the down years so don't tag along our good years:)

As a life long New York fan (Yankees, Giants, Syracuse) I think this is the 1st time I ever heard someone asking to jump on our bandwagon. So as a NY fan I have to say no:p We have to suffer far worse than anyone else during the down years so don't tag along our good years:)

That's because you haven't had a NFL football team as bad as we've had it and for 55+ years, plus you have 2 teams in every sport, so even if you hate the JETS at least you have something else to watch...1 playoff game win in 50 years sucks...the thanksgiving game was almost "blacked" out here. Now you have to admit that's bad. :D
I'll take your down years of the Yankees for the good years of the Yankees for the last 100 years any time...

Tough weekend for you NY fans. How can NYG lose to the "IGGLES"...Ouch!!

My Eags played great against the g men...Andy decided to finally run the ball and the O line and D stepped up. But Andy's knucklehead play calling is wearing thin around here.

HeyNow
Can you post me a picture if the end rail non-cap, going back to what you said on my thread, I am wondering how you did yours and went through all your pictures but don't see a close up of it. The best shot is the one where you have duct tap on it and a propane torch in your hand :O but I can't tell how you finished it off. I am wondering if the stain will be too much of a bother on the end piece I made... Thanks.

And how about some updated pics of the new FS helmets ....

first page post #23 or do you want a close up?

Closeup for sure. We need PICTURES...lol. Any closeups you have or could take to give us an alternative idea for out situations as we are in the same boat and it seems to have a leak......

first page post #23 or do you want a close up?

I think we may be talking about different ones. In that same #23 post the one titled "distance shot", I would like a pic of the one on the left side, the side you walk around. Looking to see how you finished that side, not the side that is aqua in color...thanks.

Okay, I thought you could see that side in that middle pic? I can't see my own pics from work!!!!!! Anyway, I'll try to get a better pic and post tonight.

Football is back!!!!!!!!!!!!

Been extremely busy with outside stuff. Installed an aeration system in the pond. Had to trench 300 feet of polyethelene air tubing, sprinkler box for the valves and 600 feet of sinkable air hose for the three Vertex air pods. The fish are loving their new environment.

Stuff I still have to do inside:

1. Pour another coat of Etex before the year old gallon turns any more yellow.
2. Finish out the surround on the gas fireplace (get your napkins out Biggie)
3. Fabric frame the screen wall and side wall
4. Build a column wrap incorporating the side speaker
5. Trim out the star ceiling
6. Watch some football
7. Watch some more football
8. Pretend I am seeing pictures in Logan's build thread

Let's go baby.....

7. Watch some more football
8. Pretend I am seeing pictures in Logan's build thread


Haven't seen any pictures HERE since at least, oh, 11/19/08. You'll be seeing pics of my progress soon enough.

Although, watching football on my new 65" Mits DLP MAY cause a work stoppage on Sundays.

Yeah, well...you are right.... No pics mean no progress for me. Since the projector was hung long ago, I got tired of tearing everything apart and putting it back together so not to interupt our viewing in the evening. SO I just stopped working on it :)

Not to mention drinking beer.....

Whats up man? Looks good in your room. Im getting ready to do a three month overhaul of my basement. Knocking down a wall and making the poker room 5 feet by 15 feet larger. Installing three ceiling fans. I also toying with the idea of pitting stone on the walls all the way around my bar and underneath my chair rail. Ripping up the carpet. Thinking hardwood floors

Gonna be a bust fall with football and this going on! I need it done before our 2010 poker season kicks off in November

Im getting ready to do a three month overhaul of my basement.
Hey - what a coincidence - I did a 3 month basement overhaul too!

Just passed my one year anniversary. End still nowhere in sight. Time sure does fly when you're having fun. :cool:

Hey - what a coincidence - I did a 3 month basement overhaul too!

Just passed my one year anniversary. End still nowhere in sight. Time sure does fly when you're having fun. :cool:

Now that is so true and funny beyond words......:)

Ok Randy I have skimmed your thread for probably the 1000th time since I found AVS way back when and now I need some info. As for your back bar shelf setup. I saw a few things on it but either missed what I was looking for or it wasnt there. Did you use 1"x4" or 1"x6" oak boards for the box? Did you use a jig to drill the holes for the shelf supports and how did you attatch the oak ply back to the "box"? I need details man, details......I am thinking of a similar idea but need to know more so when you get a minute can you help me out and then I will root for your skins......except when they play my Bears

Hey - what a coincidence - I did a 3 month basement overhaul too!

Just passed my one year anniversary. End still nowhere in sight. Time sure does fly when you're having fun. :cool:

Now that is so true and funny beyond words......:)

ditto on "So true"....Baby #3:) decided to pop up and turned my basement HT into brand new Master Bedroom/Walk-In closet:(...That 3 month overhaul on my part turned into 9 months of construction and a mad rush to finish in time! And I won't have trim done before baby is here Oct 1.

I used 1X6 solid oak. I used this http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=5876&utm_source=yahoo&utm_medium=ssp&utm_campaign=V9120" for the shelf holes. Yes, 1/4 inch oak ply on the back attach with nail gun and brads. Rabbit the back so the panel will set flush with the box to the wall.

I used 1X6 solid oak. I used this http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=5876&utm_source=yahoo&utm_medium=ssp&utm_campaign=V9120" for the shelf holes. Yes, 1/4 inch oak ply on the back attach with nail gun and brads. Rabbit the back so the panel will set flush with the box to the wall.

Ok I was with you until you got to mentioning "rabbit the panel".....that is a foreign language to me and I am not even sure how or if I have the right tools to do so.

After you complete and ATTACH the top, sides and bottom of the "box" use a router and make a 1/4 groove (rabbitt) in the back so the panel will set flush with the back of the box.

Don't make me take mine apart and take pics of it either :)

After you complete and ATTACH the top, sides and bottom of the "box" use a router and make a 1/4 groove (rabbitt) in the back so the panel will set flush with the back of the box.

Don't make me take mine apart and take pics of it either :)

This was my next question.....damn!!

Is there another way to do it or is the router my only option? I dont own one thats why I ask. I saw your 1" peices in the pics at the top and bottom that screwed into the wall but are they attatched to the box itself or is the box just hanging on them?? (make sense?)

Also when building the box.....are the top and bottom (the horizontal ones)one solid peice the entire length? Basically what I am trying to ask is......did you just have one long top and one long bottom peice then 4 vertical peices to create the box and then hang it all at once? How long is your entire box?

Check back in this thread and you will see the dimensions. Don't you have a friend that has a router? If you don't rabbit the back you will see the panel from the sides.

There are several componants to this back bar:

The bottom is one long shelf with face trim
Then there are two boxes that sit on the long shelf with face trim
The top is another long shelf with crown molding attached.

Easy!

So there are four pieces to this unit that makes it look like one piece. Understand?

Check back in this thread and you will see the dimensions. Don't you have a friend that has a router? If you don't rabbit the back you will see the panel from the sides.

There are several componants to this back bar:

The bottom is one long shelf with face trim
Then there are two boxes that sit on the long shelf with face trim
The top is another long shelf with crown molding attached.

Easy!

So there are four pieces to this unit that makes it look like one piece. Understand?

No I dont have any friends that build anything....they are all lazy...hahaha.

Ok so you said you ahve 4 peices but actually there are six if my math is accurate. Basically I use a 1 x 6 x whatever length the unit will be for the bottom then I use 4 seperate 1x6 for the boxes and then another 1x6xwhatever length to make the top then trim it out and done??

Is there a trick/special bit I would need to route out the back? this is the part that is stumping me. Also the process of hanging the thing and making sure it is secure is another. As for dimensions i have looked through the thread in its entirety twice this morning with no results but dimensions are irrelevant as I need mine to fit my space.

You have Indiana math Gwedo. :) 2 boxes, 1 top shelf, 1 bottom shelf. Equals 4 components.

If you are really counting... each box has 4 components top, 2 sides, bottom.

Then the top shelf and bottom shelf.

So in all you have 10 pieces. I won't even mention the boxes shelves.

You have Indiana math Gwedo. :) 2 boxes, 1 top shelf, 1 bottom shelf. Equals 4 components.

If you are really counting... each box has 4 components top, 2 sides, bottom.

Then the top shelf and bottom shelf.

So in all you have 10 pieces. I won't even mention the boxes shelves.

Thats what I am asking......

Are the boxes themselves actually boxes that sit on the bottom shelf or are they just 2 peices of 1x6 that are vertial and are attatched to the bottom and top peice to create a box? make sense? Or are they two actual boxes (with 4 sides) that are then attatched to the long top and bottom peices?

Another thing...My space from my base cabinets to the wall behind my bar is only 31" is that enough space to put a 1x6 shelf unit or do you think I will be constantly hitting it? I have never had a bar so space behind it is new to me. I dont think I can go with a 1x4 setup because that size shelf seems like it would be useless to put anything on

You can't call it a box unless it has 4 sides silly! :) Yes, each box has four sides. The completed box sets on the bottom shelf. And has a pretty hat (top shelf) with crown molding on it. :)

Edit to answer you second question. You have plenty of room for 1X6. A 1X4 wouldn't be able to handle large bottles. (I don't think)

Check out IRMO's bar, I think he did what you are wanting to do. You don't need a bunch of space behind the bar unless you want to be Tom Cruise and juggle bottles.

You can't call it a box unless it has 4 sides silly! :) Yes, each box has four sides. The completed box sets on the bottom shelf. And has a pretty hat (top shelf) with crown molding on it. :)

Edit to answer you second question. You have plenty of room for 1X6. A 1X4 wouldn't be able to handle large bottles. (I don't think)

Check out IRMO's bar, I think he did what you are wanting to do. You don't need a bunch of space behind the bar unless you want to be Tom Cruise and juggle bottles.

Ok so then I ask you this....Is there any reason that you can think of that I couldnt just use one long peice on the bottom and one on the top then use just the sides of each box and use the long peices as the top and bottom of the boxes rather than making a box to sit on a shelf with a top hat? I am concerned about weight.

So about hanging this monster.......details man details

Oh and I forgot...Irmo has no links in his name so where the heck is his thread and better yet his pics???

You could do what you say. But it would be a booger to hang without help. You know, since you don't have any friends :) Have you ever hung a cabinet? If you have, it's the same thing. That is why I reinforced my "box" with an oak strip so the 1/4 ply wouldn't be the weak link. Find your studs and screw it in!

Search Irmogamecock you will find it.

You could do what you say. But it would be a booger to hang without help. You know, since you don't have any friends :) Have you ever hung a cabinet? If you have, it's the same thing. That is why I reinforced my "box" with an oak strip so the 1/4 ply wouldn't be the weak link. Find your studs and screw it in!

Search Irmogamecock you will find it.

Well I have friends just none that are handy but surely they could stand there and hold a box....I think?!?! I always have my 13 year old son or my wife...

Did you just use a brad nail gun to build the boxes and also to attatch them to the shelf?? I have never hung a cabinet so that tells me nothing....

EDIT

And my search for Irmogamecock returned me no results!

here it is Irmocamcoq

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=891879

I brad nail the box assembly and use countersunk dry wall scews under the self.

here it is Irmocamcoq

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=891879

I brad nail the box assembly and use countersunk dry wall scews under the self.

Haha a great thread where I can see none of his pics.....LOL
As for the drywall screws what did you screw them through?

Haha a great thread where I can see none of his pics.....LOL
As for the drywall screws what did you screw them through?

The bottom shelf and box

This is almost like Abbott and Costello......

The bottom shelf and box

I am lost (like always) how do you screw a flat shelf to a wall? I assume there was some sort of peice that you attatched to the box inside that you could screw through into the studs? I think I saw those in one of your pics. Is it the 1x1" strips at the top and bottom? If so how did youattatch those to the boxes? I assume from the side but brad nailed as well?

Am I Abbott or Costello? I was going to compare it more to the 3 stooges except we need a third

Boy oh boy Steveroo...

Take a very close look at the pictures. See the brackets under the bottom of the shelf?

Boy oh boy Steveroo...

Take a very close look at the pictures. See the brackets under the bottom of the shelf?

I am sorry I truly dont see them. Give me a post # so that I can look at the same pic you are referring too.....

EDIT...Post #15ish

I see "L" type brackets. THose are your main support? Do you think that I need to use those or is there some sort of way to not use them??

I dunno. I felt that with all the bottles on the shelves, it was a no brainer for me.

I dunno. I felt that with all the bottles on the shelves, it was a no brainer for me.

Well it works with your setup as you have a counter and sink under the shelves but I wont have anything so I think they would stick out like a sore thumb. If I had something under there it wouldnt be a problem as they wouldnt be so out in the open. As for the peices that you used at the top and bottom of the boxes to screw into the wall.....how are they attatched to the boxes?

The only thing screwed into the wall is the boxes. You are a picture person aren't you? :)

The only thing screwed into the wall is the boxes. You are a picture person aren't you? :)

VERY much so......can you get me some closeups?? lol

Ok I think I have diagnosed this....LOL. The long bottom peice is secured via the L brackets to the wall and the boxes sit on there and are brad nailed to the bottom peice and screwed to the wall and then the top peice is brad nailed to the top of the boxes??

You, sir have been toying with me the entire day! You are close enough for me.

You, sir have been toying with me the entire day! You are close enough for me.

Hey look at it this way......your thread got a MUCH needed bump back to page 1.....no need to thank me :p

I appreciate all the help both today and throughout this entire build. If I could figure a way to mount the whole unit without using the L brackets I would be good to go........:confused::rolleyes:

http://i471.photobucket.com/albums/rr79/hanesian/AVS/2000_0027.jpg


http://i471.photobucket.com/albums/rr79/hanesian/AVS/3guys.jpg

Thanks, guys ... I needed a bit of light entertainment today! ;)

I'm worn out :) .

Ok Randy so I know you are tired of me already but you will he happy to know I bit the bullet and purchased a router. I didnt know (and still dont)anything about them so I just got a basic fixed base unit. Now my question for you is should I wait until I assemble the boxes to route out the back or route the peices individually before assembly?

Buy some 2 x 4s and practice, practice, practice. Actually routers are pretty easy to operate, you'll be fine. Now that you have one you'll find ton's of reasons to use it. I typically assemble a project first and then route the edge, that's just what works for me.

However, if your talking about the groove to mount the back of the unit in, I'd route the pieces first prior to putting the frame together.

What he said. Go slow, but not to slow to burn...oak smells great when you char it with a router. I prefer the smell of Cherry or Walnut...I miss shop class in the 70's :)

The simplest way is to take your intact 8 foot board (or whatever size you get) and route the entire board. Since you will prolly butt join the box assemble, the top and bottom will be covered and you won't see the slots.

I think Randy was stuck in the paint booth once too many times!! Man a little oil based stain... mmmm what a headache though.

But Sir, any BBQ man knows his wood. :)

New Paragon Popcorn machine. It is a bit short so I did some minor construction from all the scraps that I had from the bar and riser build. It is a great machine, 4 oz with a heated bottom! Gave my other machine to #2 son.


http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e393/heynow123/014-1.jpg

http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e393/heynow123/004.jpg

http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e393/heynow123/007.jpg

http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e393/heynow123/008.jpg

http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e393/heynow123/018.jpg

http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e393/heynow123/015.jpg

http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e393/heynow123/022.jpg

Nice job, I should have done something similar, I purchased the cart with the wheels and it's just too big and bulky. I wish you did this sooner so I would't have wasted my money :)

I had the one with the cart and wheels and hated it. It was worth getting rid of! I actually stole this idea from BigMouthInDC...so I can't take any credit for it.

BTW for you and Steve....the cabinet is COPPER color!

I had the one with the cart and wheels and hated it. It was worth getting rid of! I actually stole this idea from BigMouthInDC...so I can't take any credit for it.

BTW for you and Steve....the cabinet is COPPER color!

Now that is a nice popper. Great work (as always) Randy. And we all thought your build was finished....:rolleyes:

FOUR Oz?!?!?!

That's like drinking one of those little airline bottles of Jack and saying I drank a WHOLE bottle last night. Man up. Get at least a 6 oz.

Base looks really nice, though.

Thanks Hey Now for your posts. I looked at you design so many times when I was designing mine I felt like I lived there...LOL. Have you ever thought of replacing that mirror with a big screen?

Thanks. Yes, I have. But I just love looking at myself too much :) I would lose too much shelf space and the glasses at the top. Who knows, maybe I will. I do have an extra flat panel in the spare room. My wife thinks I am collecting LCD screens.

Hey Randy...me likes it. Nice job!
See, I'll have to let the wife know those closet full scraps do come in handy.

See, I'll have to let the wife know those closet full scraps do come in handy.

LOL...isn't that the truth. The wife just asked me the other day what I was keeping all the scrap wood for, now I have an answer for her.

Made some progress on the fireplace surround

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y84/HeyNowWV/fireplacesurround002.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y84/HeyNowWV/fireplacesurround003.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y84/HeyNowWV/fireplacesurround006.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y84/HeyNowWV/fireplacesurround012.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y84/HeyNowWV/fireplacesurround016.jpg

more...
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y84/HeyNowWV/fireplacesurround023.jpg

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y84/HeyNowWV/fireplacesurround025.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y84/HeyNowWV/fireplacesurround026.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y84/HeyNowWV/fireplacesurround029.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y84/HeyNowWV/fireplacesurround036.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y84/HeyNowWV/fireplacesurround046.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y84/HeyNowWV/fireplacesurround054-1.jpg

Excellent work my friend simply excellent. I removed my electric fireplace similar to yours pre-build/renovation and didnt think I had the room to put it back in but I may reconsider since I now have seem how you did yours. I cant help but wonder though about your wiring (for the fireplace)being up to code?? LOL

Very nice work Randy...what a transformation. The marble and stain color look great together. Job well done!

The fireplace is LP Gas. The wiring is simply a plug that I put in a power strip outside the fireplace for the blower in the fireplace. I have my comcast cable running behind it for now. I still have a lot of work to do. Another shelf on the brick ledge and maybe panel the brick. I have to also put cement board down on the brick base and tile it. I will need to remove the bricks in the front arch too. Far from complete. Oh and the crown molding under the top and trim between the fireplace tile and wood. I'm tired just thinking of what I have to do yet.

Looks good Randy, I like the look. I did something similar to your pilasters on my basement pole when I boxed it in. I like the boxed look you gave each one, I have been looking for a bottom and top design and may have just found it. So you just boxed the bottom and added the trim and topped it with 1/4 round ?

Here is what I did.

1x6 oak, added another short 6 inch oak piece at the bottom and top then added the moulding. Gives the top and bottom a little more beef.

Oh and this project allowed me to score a new biscuit joiner and tile saw! :)

Here is what I did.

1x6 oak, added another short 6 inch oak piece at the bottom and top then added the moulding. Gives the top and bottom a little more beef.

Oh and this project allowed me to score a new biscuit joiner and tile saw! :)

Okay thanks. One quetion though, Did you add the 1/4 round /shoe molding first or after you added the molding pieces?

NICE work as always! Looks great except for that stupid helmet in lower left hand side. I know it's a gas fieplace but maybe you could make an exception just this once.

It caps the end grain of the 1x6x6 pieces at the top and bottom.

side view of it laying flat.

=====[\___________________/]======

NICE work as always! Looks great except for that stupid helmet in lower left hand side. I know it's a gas fieplace but maybe you could make an exception just this once.

Tom: You said exactly what I was thinking too...lol
Especially after Sunday's (choke) game. Eagles fans loved watching that loss!

Not as much a we enjoyed watching the cowgirls choke!!!

NICE work as always! Looks great except for that stupid helmet in lower left hand side. I know it's a gas fieplace but maybe you could make an exception just this once.

Well, what should I do put Jaw's helmet up there?

Philly-smilly. Romo-showmo... There won't be a NFC east team past the first round....wait, I'm choking on something....oh ....I must be Shaun Suisham ....

Well, what should I do put Jaw's helmet up there?


That would be good. Or Cunningham's. Or ANYBODY else's.

Not as much a we enjoyed watching the cowgirls
THIS is why I got HD!

wait, I'm choking on something....oh ....I must be Shaun Suisham ....


What's Burgundy an Gold and will be selling insurance next season?

I love this thread. As many others I stumbled across this researching for my bar build. I have decided to use your plan and model with a couple of changes if you dont mind. You did a wonderful job and for someone like me your pictures and instructions are much needed. I am n ot the most handy person when it come to wood work but give me a motorcycle and thats a different story. If you get time will you review this list of materials and measurements and just let me know they seem to match up roughly? I am going to get all my cuts done at lowes to ensure straight cuts because I cant seem to get cuts level. Also when you screwed the 2x4's to the base oak cabinet grade plywood how did you keep it all standing as your worked your way around building the walls for the backwards J shape? below are my materials and measurements

Front 7 ft
2 cabinet grade 42x40.5 plywood cuts totaling 7feet long
2 vertical 2x4's 40.5 tall for each sheet
2 horizontal 2x4s 38 inches for the aliging across the top of the base proving structure for the top plywood to sit on.
2 1x3 oak peices 38 inches long to attach to top 2x4's adding extra thickness for plywood attachment

Side
1 cabinet grade plywood 40.5x48
2 2x4 one @ 45 inches for the top alignment for plywood top, the other @ 40.5 vertical to attach return to
1 1x3 oak board 45 inches long to attach to 2x4 for extra thickness for plywood top

Return
cabinet grade plywood 24x40.5
1 2x4 22 inches long for top alignment to attach plywood top
1 oak peice 22 inches long for extra thickness for plywood

front plywood top 76x18
side plywood 68x18
return plywood 16x18

Does this make sense? Thanks so much for any help you can provide. I will post pics of the build.

Thanks for the compliments but I am an idea thief....I steal ideas where ever I can! :)

I started with the two long side panels on the floor and added the 2X4s with glue and screws. Lifted it up and attached the 4 foot panel with screws. Easy I did it by myself.

I can't say if the measurements are exact. But they seem pretty close. Your oak 1x3s might be a bit short. Mine run from top to just an 1/8 off the floor. Since that measurement is 40.5, well you see that 38" may be short. I DID NOT USE ANY OAK HORIZONALLY at the top or bottom. If you are going to do that then maybe your 38" measurement should be about right.

All Oak 1X's are on the outside of the bar. Check my earlier pics. I am assuming you mean finished side.

I can't confirm your top measurements, but once you "rough" in the top you can make adjustments as you go.


Good Luck!

HeyNow^, the fireplace looks great. Let me ask you, is your fireplace vented? Did it have an odor the first time you used it? Some friends just bought a house with a ventless natural gas log and they had a headache causing odor the first few times they fired it up. Was just wondering if anyone else has the same thing.

HT1,

Good question. I have a ventless fireplace on the first floor. You definately smell the ventless fireplace. It is suppose to be the most effecient, but it has the bi-product of condensation and smell. Hate it until the ice storms take down our electric. Fortunately, The one you see in the pics is VENTED and also takes in outside air up through the existing chimney. We love it in comparison.

Guess what is going to happen to the one upstairs? Yep, next project....tear it out and replace it with a vented.

That's a good call on replacing the non-vented. When we built our house in 2000 we went with the vented on the 1st floor, I just didn't like the idea of using the inside air to fuel the fire. Plus, even though they are very efficient there is still a small amount of exhaust. The one in my basement is also vented and has the ceramic glass front that radiates heat. Add that to the blower and it really puts out the heat. Now if I just get a generator hook up so I can use them when the power goes out........;)

When our power went out last year, I spent the night in the basement with the fireplace on. No fan and I was a bit hesitant letting it run without a fan. I was afraid it would get too hot. We dodged a bullet last night with the ice. More snow and rain than ice.

in have a question about the rope lighting. did you just get a string of Christmas lights and enclose them with clear tubing? I appreciate it. I had all my plywood cut at home depot today. I decided to go with the cabinet grade plywood for the base, and the first layer of the top. pics to come.

My rope light is from a spool I bought on line. The rope light is attached with clear plastic U channel. See pics on first page.

Coming along nicely, BTW- who's on the Packer helmet?

Quote:
wait, I'm choking on something....oh ....I must be Shaun Suisham ....
What's Burgundy an Gold and will be selling insurance next season?


Check that....What's Burgundy and Gold and playing golf TODAY?

Coming along nicely, BTW- who's on the Packer helmet?

That guy that is playing QB for the Vikings.. :)

Check that....What's Burgundy and Gold and playing golf TODAY?

It's only the beginning...Campbell will be gone, Portis will be gone....Zorn will be gone....

It's only the beginning...Campbell will be gone, Portis will be gone....Zorn will be gone....

But Synder will still be there. Can't wait to see what He and Jerry Jones do next year without a cap.

Don't forget the Vinnie! How 'bout them Giants! :)

see attached

Lookin' good!

160932

160935

160936

160937

160938