I’ve been posting pictures of my bar that I built in my basement adjacent to my open theater area in a couple of different threads and thought that I may as well begin my own thread. I am not going to give a lot of detailed measurements simply because my area will certainly differ from what others may have in their environment. I’ll attempt to explain what I have done and why. I looked at many bar threads and plans and tried to keep mine simple and inexpensive.

I made my bar portable. Why? Simply because I may need to move it to get items in and out of my basement door. Believe me, it’s stable and it slides across my carpet with ease. I just unscrew two bolt attached to the base cabinet and I can move it by myself.

As you will see from my pics, there is no blueprinted plan. I actually placed blue painters tape on the floor to see how the bar would impact on mobility in the room. I moved the tape several times.

I’m still adding items and changing décor frequently. I like my environment to be flexible; i.e. Superbowl parties, movie parties, etc.

The beginning;

Here you can see what the area looked like when we bought the house. The base cabinet I could use again, but those head knocker top cabinets had to go. They were narrow and not very utilitarian. They look great in the garage though! 

http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e393/heynow123/PA260017.jpg

My research indicated that the bar should be 42” high from floor to top. Figuring that I would have a sheet of ¾ inch plywood for the top base plus and estimated ¾ inch of whatever I decided for the finished top of the bar. I had them cut both plywood sheets to 40.5 inches. This gave me four 40.5 by 48 inch sheets out of the two eight foot long sheets to make up my base.

This shows the long dimension. My base is 7 feet long by 4 feet wide with a 2 foot return.

http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e393/heynow123/Picture065.jpg

This shot shows the 4 foot section of the base and the ¾ plywood top.

http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e393/heynow123/2e516414.jpg

This shows the return and you can see the back of the bar that I used 2x4s to bridge the plywood sections.

http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e393/heynow123/Picture067.jpg

How the unit will relate to the half of the basement room.

http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e393/heynow123/Picture068.jpg


The beginning of the application of the bar railing. I love this stuff. It drove me crazy, but it looks good and is very comfortable. The chair is there to check the height, but it was several inches shorter than our final chairs. So why did I bother? Because I was thirsty!

http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e393/heynow123/Picture069.jpg

Long side with railing application

http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e393/heynow123/Picture070.jpg

Return side

http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e393/heynow123/Picture071.jpg

It's a beauty made all the more rewarding that you built it yourself.

Thanks Vikram R.



The staining begins

http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e393/heynow123/Picture073.jpg

I wanted black granite tiles for the top but couldn’t find a vendor that didn’t require a large minimum number of tiles. So as you will see the top is oak flooring.


I used 1X3 oak on the corner ends and seams. I used a router to add a groove.




http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e393/heynow123/Picture074.jpg.



http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e393/heynow123/Picture074.jpg

I decided to put brass railing on for the footrest. Wood and brass, I like it. Search the net, there are bargains for brass railing and fittings, some are twice what others are.

http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e393/heynow123/Picture075.jpg

http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e393/heynow123/bb98e274.jpg

http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e393/heynow123/9080684c.jpg

http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e393/heynow123/4ae834ab.jpg

Thanks for the construction shots, it gives me some more ideas. I'm curious where you found the bar mouldings (the chin rest)? Sounds like you did some online sourcing. That moulding makes a huge difference in the final product.

Hey Biggie.

I found the molding at a local Hardwoods vendor, believe it or not, just 10 minutes from me. They have all types of molding and exotic wood material. Bless the yellow pages!

Very nice work , finished product looks like it weighs 1000#s :D

I'd like to do something on that order(still in the framing stages in the basement) with a lower counter on the inside so I can hide a fridge/freezer and a microwave.

John

thanks for your kind words in the email. Its tough coaching now, so many parents now days baby their kids and make almost impossible to get the most out of them. I said almost impossible. ahhaha nice bar ill have to post some of my pics when im down the whole hting, you gotta get a projector man, its sweet

Hey Mantown2! I would like to see some pics of your room. Sounds like a really cool setup from what you told me when you started the deal. I would imagine today is the biggest day of the year for you (Superbowl Sunday).

Thanks

Since the bar is stained pretty dark, I decided to add rope lights under the top. The non-dedicate theater seating area is adjacent to the bar; I had to figure a way to avoid the light hitting you at eye level while sitting in the Berks.

http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e393/heynow123/Picture104.jpg


So I laid the rope in clear channel and then pinned molding in front of the string of rope light.

http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e393/heynow123/P2050039.jpg

Problem solved.

http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e393/heynow123/Picture150.jpg

Thanks for the construction shots, it gives me some more ideas. I'm curious where you found the bar mouldings (the chin rest)? Sounds like you did some online sourcing. That moulding makes a huge difference in the final product.

Big,

Rockler (http://www.rockler.com/findit.cfm?page=5762&cookietest=1) carries bar moldings if you can't find it local. They also carry the brass bar tubing. (http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=10323)

Bud

Great work!

HeyNow,

Where did you connect the rope light to the electric? Did you run it behind the bar? I strategically placed a switched outlet on the wall where the bar counter meets the wall for plugging in EL Tape, Rope lighting or whatever works the best.

Great job.

Bud

I get home. its not finished but youll get the idea when you see the pictures

Thanks Bud and Mntneer.

I ran the rope from left to right on the outside all the way around to the inside terminating at the wall. I then plugged the rope into a lutron lamp dimmer then into wire mold that I installed on the inside of the bar. I have the kegerator and one small fridge plugged into the wire mold as well. This way I can disconnect one wire and move the bar around.

It is a little cluttered in this early picture, but you can see the wire mold under the bar top.

http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e393/heynow123/P2010033.jpg

Here is a shot as the bar is today. I’m constantly moving things around, but you will see the new fridge the wife got me for Christmas.

http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e393/heynow123/P2010022.jpg

The back bar consists of 1x6 oak boxes (2) connected to a 1X6 “shelf”. The top is a 1X6 oak plank with crown and trim piece. The top lifts off and each “box” can be removed from the wall separately leaving the bottom shelf. The mirror is beveled standard mirror fare I got from Lowes.

http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e393/heynow123/P2010020.jpg

A couple of close-ups of the back bar detail. I still have to paint the ceiling darker.


http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e393/heynow123/f23eddc5.jpg


http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e393/heynow123/bef95165.jpg

http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e393/heynow123/e1cfcd09.jpg

http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e393/heynow123/6a983b6e.jpg

http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e393/heynow123/33c38822.jpg

And one final shot of the completed (yeah right, my work is never done) BAR!

http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e393/heynow123/P2010017.jpg

Hope this will give interested folks some ideas.

HeyNow -

Once again, I gotta tell ya....BEAUTIFUL!

Any tips on actually building it? Like, do you think it would be easier to stain before final assembly? How about shelves underneath? Do you think they would just get in the way or make it too heavy?

Can't wait to get to mine, but I got a LOOONG way to go!

Tom

Great job - terrific bar!

Now, how about some photos of it moved away from the wall?

Randy

You could stain it prior to assembly. I glued and screwed it, so disassembly wasn't an option. Not one drop of stain got on the carpet :) . I had several layers of canvas drop cloth down. Worked well for me.

All things considered my guess is the unit only weighs 250-300lbs. The 3/4 oak top is the heaviest part but the unit overall is well balanced. The nylon glides that I have on the bottom makes the bar very manageable.

I have additional counter top to put above the fridge that sits next to the kegarator. You could certainly do shelves in this application. Shelves would not work for me on the long side because I couldn't open the left drawer or cabinet door. That area makes a great place for the trash can. I didn't need any additional shelves since I have the storage under the sink.

CaptRandy,

I'll take some this evening and post just for you! :)

Great looking bar, I may use it as a model for my own! The question I have for you is what type of wood did you use as the facing for the lower portion of the bar that you stained? Also, how did you attach the molding to the lower portion, glue, finish nailer, or both?

Thanks!

walstadm,

The bottom is 3/4 inch cabinet grade (or whatever Lowe's calls it.. $40 bucks plus per sheet) plywood. One near perfect side and the other has some slight imperfections. I don't recall the fancy name for the plywood. I used regular solid oak 1X3s and routed them with a simple groove. I glued and used a finish nailer to attach.

heynow, thanks for the pics..giving me some great ideas. NIce job, one of the nicest bars i've seen...

I'm desiging the new house i'm about to start building in a few months...so this is a big help.

CaptRandy,

I'll take some this evening and post just for you! :)

This is for CaptnRandini,

First two bolts are removed

http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e393/heynow123/P2060004.jpg

Take off the wire mold (two clips hold it to the 2x4). Unplug the rope light since it’s attached to the bar top. Pulllll ..moves well on the carpet with nylon slides on the bottom of the bar.
http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e393/heynow123/P2060017.jpg

Inside of the pulled out bar. Lots of room for shelves if you want to build them.


http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e393/heynow123/P2060008.jpg

Return side…notice how thin this is? Think office furniture.

http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e393/heynow123/P2060014.jpg

This is the long side that goes against the wall. You can see where the rope light begins. This is a very telling cross section of the build.

http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e393/heynow123/P2060015.jpg

Distance shot
http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e393/heynow123/P2060006.jpg

I’m bragging….standing alone it’s pretty plumb
http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e393/heynow123/P2060010.jpg


Bud, you can see the wire mold clipped back on.

http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e393/heynow123/P2060018.jpg

For this demonstration, I did not move the kegarator or mini fridge. The are easily moved out of the way with wheels.

http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e393/heynow123/P2060016.jpg

There you have it CaptnRandy!

Your bar construction-fu is impressive!

I can imagine it now - you have friends over to watch a game, there's much drinking, someone goes to use the restroom, and when they get back, the bar is on the other side of the room . . .

Nicely done!

Randy

Are those helmets mounted on an angle????
just bought a earl campbell signed jersey and helmet for 500 bucks
please tell me you know who he is,.............

Thanks Randy! The Mobile bar!

Mantown2,

Yes, I know Earl. When he played for the OYlers. A running machine. Helmets on at an angle until I build a long box for them.

We are still waiting on your pics Mantown2!

HeyNow -

Great pics! Thanks. One more question...the cross section pic is worth a thousand words about how you did this. Have you felt the need to brace the top at all? It looks like it is only attached to the 2X4 from the top, or are there some braces not shown? Does it wobble if someone leans on it too much? I'm thinking even just an end piece of plywood would stabilize it greatly and not add too much more weight.

Tom

Party at Hey Now's! ;)

HeyNow -

Great pics! Thanks. One more question...the cross section pic is worth a thousand words about how you did this. Have you felt the need to brace the top at all? It looks like it is only attached to the 2X4 from the top, or are there some braces not shown? Does it wobble if someone leans on it too much? I'm thinking even just an end piece of plywood would stabilize it greatly and not add too much more weight.

Tom

Tom,

Very observant of you! I was worried about the same thing. But surprisingly with the 3/4 plywood base top and the 3/4 oak flooring AND the wrap around bar molding this baby is extremely rigid. At some spots there is an additional 3/4 routed trim piece that adds additional support underneath. That makes it a total of 3 inches of width support. It is glued and screwed. There is no wobble or flex at all. I think that it has to do with the backward "J" shape of the top itself. The top is attached to a sandwich of 2X4 and 3/4 inch plywood. Now, I won't kid you, if someone got on the bar and danced near the wall, I would guess it would give a bit. But only slightly on that end. I could put a 1X on the wall to hold it up or an angle iron like I have to attach it to the base cabinet, but the back bar is there and that prevents any major weight on that end. Besides, the largest beer I serve is 1 litre :) .

Here is another close up of the cross section. You could brace it with an angle brace under the bar.

http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e393/heynow123/P2060007.jpg

Party at Hey Now's! ;)

Whooo Hooo! :)

Looks great, works great, holds 1 litre of beer...must BE great! Looks like simple works. It's a great starting point for when I get around to building mine.

Party at Hey Now's!

YEAH! Martinsburg is not that far from Sterling!

Great job,
TOm

Hey, great job on the bar. Where did you get the under counter wine rack? My girlfriend has been asking me to put one of those up for some time now.

Curtis104,

Thanks! Barproducts.com has several finishes and lengths to suit just about all of your needs. I get all my bar accessories from there.

Thanks!! Again, great job on the bar.

I helped my friends build an enormous bar back in college, we were all in engineering, so we overbuilt it. Our standard was that at least 10 chicks could dance on it at the same time. We threw some wicked parties, and finally, one Halloween, we passed the test! 10 chicks...dancing....on the bar! Hook 'em Horns!

heynow,

that is truly an inspiration. before i could pursue a project like that i suppose i'll need a furnished basement and a house first. :p

great work!

Thanks bump. It's been a worthwhile and rewarding project. :)

Where did you get the foot rails? what did you pay for them? and what was that furry thing in the one picture? a rat or a dog? haha

Hey now, what's up man!! Awesome work!!!!!!You know I love woodworking projects.!

brickie

Brickie!!!!!!


Where you been man???


Bud

Sir BrickenBocker!

I just about fell off of my stool! The BrickMeister! We miss you man! I know you don't drink Brickie, I swear I only have KoolAid sitting at the bar [Pinochio] my nose is growing!
How is the house going? Wife and kids Okay??


ManTown,

Try Superior Products for pricing.. You may now be able to find the best price there now, but look around, you will find competitive pricing.

China dog, what's up..I still pop in every now and again...Hopefully will find the time to come back "full time"..

Hey now, it's okay man, i'll chug a few everynow and then..Families good as I hope yours is..House is coming,just a little slow..Cold winter slow the bricks down which slowed the house work down..But still loving being an homeowner..

That bar was awesome man!!I told my wife awhile ago it could be done after we looked at some that were $5K and up..Now i see it can be done!Keep up the good work and take care guys!

brickie

Im gonna be asking you advice on buying and installing bass shakers for my theater in the near future. How are yours going?

HeyNow: beautiful bar, I always thought a bar added the final touch to a basement. Glad I have one in my basement. I tiled the top and paneled the sides. Now I have to get the foot rail for that final touch. check my gallery for a picture of my bar.. It measures 5x9 w/ sink and fridge.. Matt

Awsome job Taxman48! I bet you have a lot of room behind the bar for storage. I also have a poker table, but it's too big for the existing space. I just keep it in storage until needed. I really like the look of your space. Excellent work!

man town2, right now theater is taken apart(sigh), all the main components are in boxes in basement..I removed the shakers from couch since didn't think they were needed in the 2nd family room.I just now put a 65" in there to get some dvd watching going again.

If you can find them, I highly recommend them and will use them in the real theater when I do it in the basement.

brickie

Wanna get rid of your shakers?????
when i get mine will you walk me through the set up?????


im prewiring right now any suggestions?????\
drywall is going up next week

Awesome! I'll have a Stoli martini dirty please! :P

Now I'm inspired.. I really gotta get the pics up for my basement theater bar design. Now this is how it's done! Man I love this website!

Man that is awsome, ever think about putting the helmets in order by division. Where did you all those, again looks great.

NFC is on one side and AFC on the other in City order. I've had them several different ways. And I bet they will be changed again in the future.

Man that is inspiring! Very nice work.

Nice work, Hey Now. I love the idea of using hardwood flooring as the countertop. Very resourceful.

I have a couple of boxes of leftover hardwood myself that I've been wondering what to do with. If I wasn't getting some granite tile for my bar countertop *for free*, I'd probably opt for the same thing. I'll have to keep that idea in mind for down the road though.

Pa here, played during the sparky woods era, before transfering.......long live steve spurrier

Pa here, played during the sparky woods era, before transfering.......long live steve spurrier

How 'bout that...small world. Don't suppose you were still there when "the player revolt" occurred, were you?

And yes, definitely long live SOS.

HeyNow, great job! That looks awesome! Thanks for all the great pics and info, it is a tremendous help for me on the bar I am starting to build. I do have a few more questions if you don't mind and may have more as I get further into the process of building this thing. I have never really took on a project of this magnitude before. First, how wide is the 3/4 plywood that you used as the base for the bartop? Second, is the bartop plywood perfectly centered with the 2x4 support beam or does it stick out more on one side than the other? Your help is GREATLY appreciated, these pictures are the most detailed I have seen anywhere without actually having to buy the plans!! Thanks again.

HeyNow, great job! That looks awesome! Thanks for all the great pics and info, it is a tremendous help for me on the bar I am starting to build. I do have a few more questions if you don't mind and may have more as I get further into the process of building this thing. I have never really took on a project of this magnitude before. First, how wide is the 3/4 plywood that you used as the base for the bartop? Second, is the bartop plywood perfectly centered with the 2x4 support beam or does it stick out more on one side than the other? Your help is GREATLY appreciated, these pictures are the most detailed I have seen anywhere without actually having to buy the plans!! Thanks again.

Thanks for the compliments.

I would guess that the top is 18-20 inches across split 60/40 (inside bar/outside bar). The critical measurement is the legroom. You have to test that to see what feels comfortable to you.

Good luck with your bar project. Don't for get to take plenty of pictures to share with all of us!

Awesome bar!! Just a question though! How do yo finish the hardwood surface on the bar top? If you leave it, eventually it will get dinged up and booze will be spilt on it, and probably soak into the cracks. Did you put some kind of sealer on it? If so, what did you use??

Snickers,

The oak flooring is pre-finished. I filled in the cracks will a filler designed for hardwood floors. Then I put Poly on that.

Very nice work!

HeyNow^ -

I was in Charlestown the other day (GOLFING, NOT gambling!) and passed by a store right on the main street that looked like it sold all kinds of bar stuff. Retro stools, bars, jukeboxes, and supplies, etc. At least it looked that way from the window display and the name of the store had "bars" in the title. I only caught it out of the corner of my eye, as we were looking for the golf course, not bar stores. Have you ever been in there? Do you think it might be worth the trip (it's only an hour from Sterling!).

Tom

Tom,

Yep. I know the store you are speaking of. You can find it here. It certainly is high end $$ wise. The web site might save you a trip! :)

http://www.barsandbooths.com/

Yeah, those guys are definitely top notch. I always thought they were in Harpers Ferry though, didn't realize they were in Charles Town.

Yep, they are right on main street across from the old hardware store (if it's still there)

I'm inquiring now on the cost of one of their booths. I can find them on line for 4-5 hundred. Curious how much they will be.

The oak flooring is pre-finished. I filled in the cracks will a filler designed for hardwood floors. Then I put Poly on that.

Did you coat the whole thing or just the filler in the cracks?

IrmoGamecoq,

I used the wipe on Poly and put a couple of applications on it. However! If I had to do it all over again :) I would use one piece of plywood for the top or granite. The filler has a tendency to loosen up with the changes in humidity even with the poly on top. The oak moves just as if it were on a floor.

Randy, so does the actually see the gap widen and shrink? I was thinking of going with something similar, just maybe not prefinished to match the stain. Why the filler, does it have the rounded edges on the individual boards?

Bud

Randy, so does the actually see the gap widen and shrink? I was thinking of going with something similar, just maybe not prefinished to match the stain. Why the filler, does it have the rounded edges on the individual boards?

Bud


Bud,

The gaps stay consistent to the naked eye. But the wood has to dry, swell and move. It is not a floating one piece top. Each plank is stapled to the base. Yes, it is slightly rounded edges, hence the filler. Honestly it's not a problem. I just can't leave well enough alone. I guess I'm too much of a tweaker.

Maybe you could go with a nice one piece 3/4 maple sheet goods stained to match your trim?? Could you do one panel or would you to have a seam at the 90 degree corner?

Yep, they are right on main street across from the old hardware store (if it's still there)

I'm inquiring now on the cost of one of their booths. I can find them on line for 4-5 hundred. Curious how much they will be.


Just got their reply. They knocked off $400 bucks. 2K plus tax if I pick it up.. Uhmmm.... No thanks.

Bud,

The gaps stay consistent to the naked eye. But the wood has to dry, swell and move. It is not a floating one piece top. Each plank is stapled to the base. Yes, it is slightly rounded edges, hence the filler. Honestly it's not a problem. I just can't leave well enough alone. I guess I'm too much of a tweaker.

Maybe you could go with a nice one piece 3/4 maple sheet goods stained to match your trim?? Could you do one panel or would you to have a seam at the 90 degree corner?

That may be an option, but the longest section is more than 8 feet and I'd have to piece it. Mine will be three piece with 45 degree turns.

http://images14.fotki.com/v335/photos/6/649633/3817012/100_1596-vi.jpg?800600

Bud

HeyNow^ -

Thanks for the link! That looks like them. I might just have to go up there and browse around, at least get some ideas.

Tom

That may be an option, but the longest section is more than 8 feet and I'd have to piece it. Mine will be three piece with 45 degree turns.

http://images14.fotki.com/v335/photos/6/649633/3817012/100_1596-vi.jpg?800600

Bud


Thats right you have two turns. Have you decided on what you will do with the front yet?

IrmoGamecoq,

I used the wipe on Poly and put a couple of applications on it. However! If I had to do it all over again :) I would use one piece of plywood for the top or granite. The filler has a tendency to loosen up with the changes in humidity even with the poly on top. The oak moves just as if it were on a floor.

Bummer, sorry to hear it as I was planning on using some leftover prefinished flooring in a bartable similar to the one in this thread:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=676030

I had not intended to fill the cracks with anything though. While there might be the occasional spill, I didn't expect there to be alot of water introduced to the flooring...no more certainly than on the wood in its usual application on the floor.

If I hadn't used the filler, stuff (i.e. crumbs, salt, etc.) would be difficult to wipe up and would eventually accumulate. Ninety nine percent of the top is stable now. So no big deal.

Just an update on what is new in the bar area. I decided to put in a booth for dining seating in the back corner.

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y84/HeyNowWV/booth2.jpg


http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y84/HeyNowWV/booth1.jpg

I like it!

Randy

Randy, the booth really looks great! Nice setup!

Bud

Thanks guys! I am able to move the booth several ways and it's very flexible.

Looks great. Time to fire up that fireplace too it looks like, it was 38 degrees this morning when I walked out the door.

I may be moving to your neck of the woods. Looking at a lot in that development off of Tusckarora Pike, right before you get to Poor House Rd.

HeyNow -

What is the emoticon for "green with envy?"

Fantastic!

Tom

Looks great. Time to fire up that fireplace too it looks like, it was 38 degrees this morning when I walked out the door.

I may be moving to your neck of the woods. Looking at a lot in that development off of Tusckarora Pike, right before you get to Poor House Rd.


Thanks Mntneer,

It was brrrr kitty out here this morning. :) We saw 32 degrees! You will love the mountain views from that location! We will have to hook up sometime and swap some HT lies...

HeyNow -

What is the emoticon for "green with envy?"

Fantastic!

Tom

Thanks Tom,

The booths cost 1/4 of the price that the Charles Town store wanted for them. And that included shipping!

Looks beautiful HeyNow. Very comfortable-looking and inviting.

The booths cost 1/4 of the price that the Charles Town store wanted for them. And that included shipping!

Now I'm even greener!

Tom

Randy, Wowee!!!! :eek: :D :eek: :D

I love it!

Great work! Looks like a movie prop, no pun intended.

The booth nook is really cool. Never would have thought of it.

I'm getting ready to put on the base for my top. How sturdy is yours on the return end?

Mine is of double stud construction and very solid now that I have the finish paneling installed, but I still have concern that it's too narrow for the top. I would like for it to over hang about 12-15" on the exterior and 4-5" on the interior. What do you think?

Neuner,

Thanks, we had a party last week and there was always a full booth playing the jukebox. What fun that was.

My return end is so sturdy that I can stand on it, bounce and it won't flex. Very rigid.
Take a look at my crosss section pics.

I think it has to be a minimum of 10 inches on the outside over hang. Twelve inches would be great. The inside is dependant on how your bar area is configured. Mine is different than say, Buds. I had space issues. I like Bud's layout and his granite is sick.

Thanks for the inspiration you provided on the bar. Your booth looks terrific too, but it was the bar that really got me off the dime when I was trying to plan my room out and didn't really have a clue where to start. Sort of like eating an elephant, sometimes looking at the big picture is a little overwhelming. Once I saw your photos I knew the direction I was headed with that end of the room, and just kept planning out from there.

That darn bar rail/chin rest is expensive, but once the boss saw the picture she realized it was the only way to go.

We're still a ways out, but we are getting there.

Good luck, Pat. Don't forget to take plenty of pictures to share with us!

I am building a bar right now in my house and the only thing i have left to do is the top. I have to get the railing made before i can do the top. Did you make that rail yourself or did you buy it somewhere? Please give me as much info as possible.

Your bar came out very nice by the way.

DUCE

Duce,

It is standard bar railing that you can get at your local hardwoods dealer. Bud mentioned that you can get it shipped from Rockler online also. Good luck.

awesome

Heynow - Where did you get the booth? My wife is hung up on getting one from the place in Charles Town, and I just can't see the $$$.

Thanks for any info!
Craig

Craig,

That group in CT wanted $2k for the complete outfit. It's nice but not that nice.

Central Restaurant online is where I got mine. Great price and Daryl Lambert handled my account. The guy must have called me a dozen times to update me on the status of my account. He followed the tracking of my orders and would call me to make sure I was updated. He can be reached at (800) 222-5107 ext 285.

Good luck!

Craig,

That group in CT wanted $2k for the complete outfit. It's nice but not that nice.




That was kinda my thought. We went up there and looked at the stuff, and while it is very nice, it just didn't seem like $2-3k nice!

Thanks alot for the info!

Hi Heynow! The fact that you built such a classy bar is great in itself, but you taking the time to post all these step by step and extremely detailed photos makes me want to get up & get started, and so I have.

Actually, I 'started' when I began the job of enclosing my back patio July 2004 (I have no basement). It had a leaky roof but no sides. To make a long story short it's now enclosed with 10 windows, a storm door & steel door to the yard and french doors to the family room. The sheetrock ceiling & walls are taped & painted. I've wired for a ceiling fan and there are two doubled up electric outlets and one single. I also brought cable TV access in. The floor is still cement.

My bar will be a dry one (meaning no tap, of course). Since there will be a window in back, I can't install a back bar like yours; it'll have to be a 'side bar' if you will. OK, I realize it HAS been 2 1/2 years, but I'm not retired and only have weekends and nights (in summer). Since my daugter is graduating from college in May I know I HAVE to get in high gear before the party or I'll N-E-V-E-R hear the end of it. The job got easier after I got the good ideas from you. Thanks a lot! Tom H.

So Randy, where did you get your helmets... Now that the Bears have put together a winning season, I can safely admit I've been a fan since the SuperBowl Shuffle. In fact, all the football B&Ws I have in the bar are old players .. Sayers, Butkus, etc. Was looking at some of the helmets on eBay and was curious where you got yours.

Bud

Tom,

Thanks buddy, but the good ideas are things that I borrowed from the many folks on this forum. One of the requirements of this forum is that you have to provide us all with your progress photos! It sounds like you are well on your way to an outstanding bar/entertainment area. I can't wait until you start posting your results! Speak up if you need help from many of the bar builders around here!

Like I have said before, Chinadog, Buffbaker, BigMouthinDC are excellent examples of outstanding bars. Take a look at their work!

Best wishes.

So Randy, where did you get your helmets... Now that the Bears have put together a winning season, I can safely admit I've been a fan since the SuperBowl Shuffle. In fact, all the football B&Ws I have in the bar are old players .. Sayers, Butkus, etc. Was looking at some of the helmets on eBay and was curious where you got yours.

Bud

Lots of birthday, Father's day, Christmas (insert any other holiday reason to get a helmet) day presents. Here (http://www.creativesportsent.com/) is where most of them came from, including all of my Superbowl Footballs and acrylic cases. Great, quick service. Never bought any from ebay, I'm sure you can find some great deals there also.

Wishing you and the family a happy holidays!

Hey Randy, im looking for barstools similar to the ones that you have. Do you think that i will be better off ordering them online or going to a furniture store.

DUCE

Duce,

We have done both. I wasn't satisfied with what I saw online and in person. My advice is not to settle for what is available immediately. If we had done that, we would have many regrets. Fortunately, we kept looking and one day at Sam's Club, we found what we really liked. Excellent construction, comfortable stools. Of course, they no longer sell what we found, so only getting four stools did raise some concerns with acquiring more stools in the same style later.

Again, look at every available outlet you can find, be it online or local B&M. Good luck, Duce!

Nice setup, concept and construction. Will definately use some of your good ideas for my bar. Thanks!

Man, that bar REALLY looks nice. I love the wood floor as the bar top. Anyway, great job!

sds

Thanks sds....Cheers!

Great setup! Does the flooring on the bar top happen to be Mirage Red Oak in the natural finish?

Geez... I don't remember. I know it's a natural finish...and it looks like red oak. You are probably right!

Heynow.

I wish I had seen your posts before I got started on mine! You have done a great job, especially in the evolution of what you have now, considering the initial pictures.

Just a few quick questions.

1. I see a few sources for the bar moulding on-line and really like yours. Do you have the dimensions of your bar moulding handy? It appears to be in the neighborhood of 6 inches x 2 1/2 inches.

2. If you had it do over again, would you change anything (color, shelves, top bar material, construction etc.)?

Thanks in advance, Ed.

dtebh,

1. You can check with McDaniels Hardwoods here (http://http://www.mcdanielhrdwds.com/testim.html) and they will give you the dimensions. I don't remember, but I can send you a scrap to check. Send me a PM.

2. Hindsight being what it is, I would change a couple of things but the bar is still evolving.....so since I am in the process of making those changes, I will post the results soon :)

We are really enjoying the bar....Can't wait for this weekend!

Randy,
Thanks for the prompt reply. I will contact McDaniels in the AM. I assumed that more than one size existed, but I can't confirm on their website since this product didn't seem to be listed.

Yes...enjoy the bowl.

Go Ponies!

Ed.

I have a bar I built.

It is a simple yet effective bar

L haped to fit the area I had in mind

I would like to see what you think

Once you see it, let me know your comments

http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n318/gfitzgrld/DSCN0887.jpg

2x4 frame with 3/4 oak plywood

http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n318/gfitzgrld/DSCN0886.jpg

Front view

http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n318/gfitzgrld/DSCN0888.jpg

Preparing to install bar top

http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n318/gfitzgrld/DSCN0889.jpg

Bar top installed. 2 sheets 3/4 oak plywood offset for beer gut

http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n318/gfitzgrld/DSCN0890.jpg

Behind the bar

http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n318/gfitzgrld/DSCN0892.jpg

Top View before adding beer gut

http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n318/gfitzgrld/DSCN1039.jpg

Final Product. I am so proud!

http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n318/gfitzgrld/DSCN1040.jpg

5 coats acrylic, 2 coats polyurathane.

Had to do some sanding to level out as seen in joint. Adds character (my opinion)

http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n318/gfitzgrld/DSCN1041.jpg

Behind bar with shelves installed

http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n318/gfitzgrld/DSCN1119.jpg

Final Product w/ bar stools (Sams product). Let me know what you think or any additional ideas I can incorporate.

Fitz

Actually, very similar in shape to the one I built. I will post pics soon. I am now installing the moulding to the top, then the top to the bar.

I used a 2x4 frame, then installed sheetrock over that, then cherry siding over the sheetrock. I left lots of room for shelves, as well as a large section that holds an ice chest.

I had previously purchased another 'portable' bar, so the one I built had to match/compliment my existing.

Pics soon.

Ed.

Nice job Fitz! Have one on me tonight!

Hey Now - Awesome bar! I'm in the process of buying a house (closing is May 10) and it has a great space in the basement for parties/bar. One of the first things I want to do is put in the bar. I have 2 questions.

1. I'm not very handy. How difficult was it to put this together and how long did it take?

2. What was your budget for the basic shell (price w/o stools, countertop).

Let me know - Thanks

Thanks Ice,

1. Basic tools should get you there. Hand saw, hammer, nails, (nail gun would help) etc. Mitre saw would help tremendously...borrow one if you don't have one. I had Lowes cut the large ply sheets so I wouldn't have to bother my then 18 year old football-playing-son... :( to help the old man. If you have a half as$ plan to begin with, it's not too difficult. Buy some blue painters tape and mark it off on the floor and walk around it for a while. We did and I can say it helped.

2. Back then about $90 bucks for the plywood, $30 for the base plywood, $50 for lumber, $70 for the bar top. The back bar and other oak boards I would guess about $ 200. Geez, with all of the other accessories....AND NEW TOOLS.. :) I hope my wife isn't reading this....I'm guessing at least $1K total with EVERYTHING (except chairs add another $600) i.e. bar rail....mirror...stain, screws, staples.. solid oak back bar trim, oak crown molding...bar stuff....gosh...it was a bundle that adds up quickly..... My recepts from Lowes are tossed so I don't see the real costs.... and not by accident :)
As far as how long for construction....the early rough-in was one day, belive it or not....now, the finishing was another story indeed. I would say at least a couple of months working on it part time.

It can be done cheaper and quicker.....I just got what I thought I needed and I'm still doing stuff.

I hope this helps. Lots of folks on here have built a bar (chinadog, BigMouthInDC, BuffBaker, and I'm sure I missed a couple of others.... Nuener is another) and if you have questions PM or ask on their threads.

Please share your efforts with everyone!

Awesome, Thanks for the info! I will definately document the process. I fear i'm a few months off though. I'm buying my first house and we already have a ton of projects lined up. I will have 3 rooms in the basement and have to figure out which is going to be the HT room and which is going to be the rec room. Sounds like a fun project

I just got done with the inspection and checked out the room sizes the rec room looks like its going to be 14x13. Would a bar your size work in that situation? I also want to have a pool table, darts, etc... in there

Thanks Ice,

1. Basic tools should get you there. Hand saw, hammer, nails, (nail gun would help) etc. Mitre saw would help tremendously...borrow one if you don't have one. I had Lowes cut the large ply sheets so I wouldn't have to bother my then 18 year old football-playing-son... :( to help the old man. If you have a half as$ plan to begin with, it's not too difficult. Buy some blue painters tape and mark it off on the floor and walk around it for a while. We did and I can say it helped.

2. Back then about $90 bucks for the plywood, $30 for the base plywood, $50 for lumber, $70 for the bar top. The back bar and other oak boards I would guess about $ 00. Geez, with all of the other accessories....AND NEW TOOLS.. :) I hope my wife isn't reading this....I'm guessing at least $1K total with EVERYTHING (except chairs add another $600) i.e. bar rail....mirror...stain, screws, staples.. solid oak back bar trim, oak crown molding...bar stuff....gosh...it was a bundle that adds up quickly..... My recepts from Lowes are tossed so I don't see the real costs.... and not by accident :)
As far as how long for construction....the early rough-in was one day, belive it or not....now, the finishing was another story indeed. I would say at least a couple of months working on it part time.

It can be done cheaper and quicker.....I just got what I thought I needed and I'm still doing stuff.



1 Day frame
1/2 Day Oak Plywood
1/2 Day Shelves and trim
3 days stain and poly

Size L-Shaped 6'x3'

Actual work time on mine.

Cost:

around $350

Best investment I ever made.

Bar stools sams @ $89 per.


Thanks heynow......I took a lot of your ideas, scaled them down and whala.......I have research for approx. 3 months before tackling the project. Trying to decide what, how where and functionality of the BAR! It is now a staple in the "Man Room" long with plasma, leather couches and some sports memorabilia.


ICE, I am not very handy either, however I got a lot of my cuts done at Home Depot (large ones) the rest is screws, glue and assemble. Once you get started you'll start thinking of ways not to screw it up. Trim hides a lot and imperfections are character to your own project. I would not trade mine for anything in the world. I built it and have had nothing but rave reviews from my patrons.........Good Luck.

Thanks Gfitz - Do you have any pics of your setup? I want to do this ASAP but I'm sure I will research this for awhile and it sounds like something fun to do during these NY winters... I'll probably hold off until then

I'm also wondering whether i should cram this all into one of the smaller basement rooms (13x14) or take over the family room which is around 30' long and 13' wide.

Great thread!, I accidentally stumbled upon this Today, as I had never seen this part of the forum before...Glad you did this Heynow, You have given me some ideas, on top of what was already swirling...

I have been searching the Net for months looking for Bar Plans, ideas, even Pics to steal ideas from, but it seems most you need to pay for, which I figure I have a pretty active imagination, so I should be able to come up with something, though they usually end up "evolving" as I go along :p ....it adds a little drama.

I have been collecting Bar stuff for Years now,(Glasses, Mugs, Towels, Neon Signs,ect) in the anticipation of having my very own "Sports Bar", and our addition is currently under way, and with any luck I can get started on my own custom built Bar in about a Month or so.<(Depends how fast my Contractor goes)

I have about a 20'x20' space to work with total, and want to do a "U" shaped Bar roughly 6x6x6 , and cost is now becoming a factor, as with the cost of the addition itself, roofing, siding, ect, I only have so much $ left to actually build the Bar with..I was figuring $1500.00 total budget.

I am fairly handy, though Wood working is not something I have allot of experience with, and I am lucky enough to have 2 great neighbors who are also handy, and have almost every Tool that I don't have already :D , so we are always "borrowing" from eachother, between the 3 of us, I should end up with something decent......Anyways the anticipation especially now after finding this thread is going to get the better of me.

I have a fair amount of Football collectibles myself, not near as much as some of you, and overall my theme will mostly be a strong Hockey, followed closely by Football...Unfortunately I don't have room for a Pool Table, but I recently bought a Super Chexx Dome Hockey game, and will get a good Dart Board, so those who get knocked out early in the Texas Hold Em games, will have something to do while drinking those fine brews ;) .

I figured this Bar would be great for the Holidays, as we Host the major Holidays, and with the B-day Parties, it should come in handy....Cant wait to get started...I will post pics as I go along...Thanks again Heynow for such a great thread.

Great thread. I am going to build a bar as well and want to know how far to hang the top over so as to have enough knee room. Any suggestions ? TIA

Petrpuck,

I would recommend 10-12 inches. It depends on many factors like chair height, what type of railing, if any etc... The best way is to mock it up and see what is comfortable for you.

I agree with Randy, but keep in mind different materials have different tolerances for overhangs. Wood may be different than marble, granite or tile. I assume you're talkign about a wood top, so it may not make a difference.

Bud

For mine, the wood floor top overhangs about 9 inches. The bar rail extends about 3-1/2" past this so I'm in the 12 inch range. My knees have never touched, but I'm also 5'-8". My brother who is 6'-4" has never said anything about hitting the front when he sat there.

I would go no less than 9 inches. I am 6'3" and 9 1/2" is just barley a good fit. Had I gone 9" it would have been tight.

I have no rail, but have tall barstools to compenstae the lack of rail.

5 Months later and several parties, my build is still the envy of the group. Building it myself certainly gives me a personal satisfaction.

Fitz

Just an update. My bar's finished. It looks quite similar to HeyNow's, just a bit smaller and it has a left hand turn instead of a right. I have to finish the back bar first before I post any digital pictures. I have the rope lighting but the pendants will have to wait for now.

One innovation I thought up; for those who, like me, didn't run hot & cold water to the bar, I got a small rectangular storage container at Lowe's - about 12" by 8" by 6" deep. I cut a hole in the center of the bottom and attached a cheap plastic sink strainer assembly. After recessing it into a shelf behind the bar and placing a 5 gallon bucket under it, I now have a place to dump abandoned / half finished drinks. They really seem to accumulate whenever I have a get together. I can lift the whole thing out to clean it.

Heynow^,

I am not sure if a 10" mitre saw can cut bar rail in 22.5 and 45 degree. How did you cut it? I believe the bar rail is at least 5" wide.

Thanks!

Tong

I used a 10" mitre saw and had to flip it to finish the cut. Don't forget to put two 3/4 inch pieces under the rail to simulate how it will lay when finished. Otherwise, the cuts won't line up.

Good luck.

I used a 10" mitre for mine also. Good point, definitely don't forget to use the dbl 3/4" as a base when you cut. I saw an episode of Weekend Warrior on HGTV where the guy tried to cut crown molding to the correct angle with it flat on the saw. He spent all night trying to get the angles right for just a couple of corners. In the morning the guru showed him how to prop it up with a base and had it done in 5 minutes. The look on the guys face was awesome!

My Mitre is compound, so I can cut it flat. However, a jig works much better and is more accurate.

The bar is finally finished. As you can see in the photo's, I stole Randy's plans blind!
http://i197.photobucket.com/albums/aa189/softball_80/b01a.jpg

The back bar.
http://i197.photobucket.com/albums/aa189/softball_80/b02a.jpg
Behind the bar.
http://i197.photobucket.com/albums/aa189/softball_80/b04a.jpg
Rope lighting.
http://i197.photobucket.com/albums/aa189/softball_80/b08a.jpg

Holy crap! We are now twins! I must say your design is awesome :) Nice work!

Nice work!

I like that rope lighting idea. Did you just put an outlet under the outside of the bar to plug the lighting into?

I added an outlet on the wall under the back bar when I built the room. There is a power strip plugged into it and fastened under the bar itself. This leaves me room to plug in the rope lights and also a blender or whatever, if I ever need to mix up anything fancy. Thanks for the compliments!

As you can see, mine has a baseball theme as opposed to Randy's which is primarily football. That's Chase Utley on the TV.

What is the width of the bar top from the front to back?

My bar top is 13 1/2" wide but about 1/4" of that is under the lip of the bar rail. The shelf behind it, sunken down about an inch (don't know the proper name) adds another 4 inches.

Heynow and Softball_80,

I don't have the cash or the room for a full bar but I might be able to hang a back bar over our buffet table. Any info on how you built them and hung them would be appreciated.

Thanks

PS: We need more pic's softball. ;)

I built a simple box with 1/4 inch ply rabbited on the back. Then I put oak strips inside the box on top and bottom to reinforce the 1/4 ply. Then I attached it to the wall like hanging a cabinet. Trimmed the face, top and bottom with molding.....pretty simple.

Wow nice work guys! You should be proud! I would love do the same one day when I get a house with enough room for one. I could convert my garage but I just love to keep my car super shiny!

I've been trolling this thread for awhile now watching all the posting pics.

What are your thoughts on flooring? Won't the occasional spill trash that carpet within a couple seasons?

Just now saw this thread, and man, you guys have some impressive stuff!

I've been trolling this thread for awhile now watching all the posting pics.

What are your thoughts on flooring? Won't the occasional spill trash that carpet within a couple seasons?


Actually, it's a cheap commercial carpet (Lowes) and it cleans up pretty easily. Maybe in the future I will put down wood laminate. For now it's working quite well.

I was going to install wood laminate flooring but changed my mind and put down 12" ceramic tiles instead. I'll eventually have a couple of area rugs but haven't gotten around to that yet.

I have a water heater, water softner and my well water holding tank in the next room. I've seen flooded basements before. My current basement is bone dry, however, I know that one day, I'll come home to a leaking water heater or a broken A/C condensate pump. What I have now, can be tossed out and replaced easily.

1. What size (width) Bar Rail did you use? It looks to be ~5"
2. Also, Did you use one (1) piece on the long end?

I just started building yesterday and might even go with using the Oak T&G for the top too. I am using 3/4" ply underneath and the flooring weighs much less than tile.
3. Did you glue and nail it down?

Thanks!

Javatime,

I think it's around 5-6 inches. They only had the one size. Yes, I did use one piece on the long side. I did not glue the flooring down to the top. I just used brads in the groove of each plank.

Good luck.

Dude, we need to put our heads together and do something with that black support pole! How about a nice stained column to match the bar?

Bud

Dude, we need to put our heads together and do something with that black support pole! How about a nice stained column to match the bar?

Bud


Yeah...it's in the works. Pretty damn ugly isn't it? One thing I won't do is put column wrap around it. I have thought about making a column for a speaker there. However, I think I am going to split a tapered oak column and make an integrated table in front of it for the wife. I am all ears if someone has a better idea.

Thanks for noticing Bud!

I'm sure Bud's comments were about a post in another thread. I will add it here to keep things tidy. I've done some painting in the theater area. I've include some before and after shots.

Here is a before the paint picture

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y84/HeyNowWV/P1010072.jpg

And…
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y84/HeyNowWV/P1010070.jpg


Here is an after…


http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y84/HeyNowWV/ht1.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y84/HeyNowWV/ht5.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y84/HeyNowWV/ht4.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y84/HeyNowWV/ht2.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y84/HeyNowWV/ht3.jpg

Lots of work to do…but we can enjoy while I build…..

Thats what I was thinking about. Mark (BritinVA) has posted somewhere where they have these sort of pole/table combos in the UK. I think they're meant for standing around and you put your drink on it. Not too big, just for that purpose I guess. I don't like the column wraps myself either. I was thinking a nice square column trimmed out with crown and base molding with maybe some additional molding to give it some style. You could hang a an old framed B&W football or sports photos or two on it.... A speaker would be easy to do as well.

Love the new colors, too.

Bud

Thanks Bud. I'm going to draw some options up, maybe I can borrow some of BigMouthinDC's napkins :) . I'm also working on reconfiguring my OC 703 panels into different shapes. As a matter of fact, last night I was using napkins and folding them into different shapes and stacking them. I want to put up some different shapes for my sound panels.

Thanks Bud. I'm going to draw some options up, maybe I can borrow some of BigMouthinDC's napkins :)

LOL, Just don't get the used ones! :p Unless they have his drawings on them of course.

Bud

HeyNow,
I agree with the pole wrap. I'll have one 1 pole exposed in my pool table room and I don't think the pole wraps look that great. I'll probably square it out and maybe add corner molding on all the sides.
btw...How wide is your bar top? looks close to about 18-20" wide
I like the idea of staining the top an off color...really gives it a nice look.
I'm incorporating a lot of your ideas...your bar looks awesome.

Thanks Javatime,

I think the top is about 12 inches from the bar rail to the tray which adds another 4 inches. That is an approximation.

What color stain did you use for the top and sides? The contrast looks good together.

Top is a natural oak prefinished flooring. The sides are Olympic Red Oak.

In regards to finishing the pole, this gave me a few ideas(about half way down)

http://members.shaw.ca/danhanson/Theater/HTFinish1.htm

I probably wouldn't have built the outer box out of MDF though, probably just 1X6 oak boards would've been better in my mind if you're staining, can't beat mdf if you're painting though. The whole thing could be made bigger to accomodate a speaker aswell..

Great job on the bar btw!

Tristan

Great job.

I never thought of building one myself, but the way you posted phase by phase was very helpful in making me believe I could build one myself (with a little help lol)


Again, great job!

Love the nice little touches and the TV above..

OohhWee!

Thanks folks. I think the pole will be a pretty easy solution to overcome.

Hey guys. I have been following this thread for a while and used many ideas from here when building the bar for my theater room. I am now near the building stages for my wet bar and was curious if anyone following this thread has done anything with fiber optic lights in a countertop. A local company has a counter top in their showroom with optic lights in the countertop. They have two different designs ideas. 1) They use the optic lights to spell a word or create a shape. 2) Have optic lights near all the golden flakes in a granite type countertop.

I would think this would be as easy as drilling several small holes through the countertop and pushing the fiber optic lights through from the bottom. Right? Wrong? Anyone?

Hey guys. I have been following this thread for a while and used many ideas from here when building the bar for my theater room. I am now near the building stages for my wet bar and was curious if anyone following this thread has done anything with fiber optic lights in a countertop. A local company has a counter top in their showroom with optic lights in the countertop. They have two different designs ideas. 1) They use the optic lights to spell a word or create a shape. 2) Have optic lights near all the golden flakes in a granite type countertop.

I would think this would be as easy as drilling several small holes through the countertop and pushing the fiber optic lights through from the bottom. Right? Wrong? Anyone?

I thought about using EL tape around the underneath of the bar, like Randy did with rope light. I still might, haven't decided, since I'm going for a certain look. I had extra rope light, but instead of doing it on the outside under the bar, I'm using it on the inside. If I wanted to do it on the oustide, I'd have deal with all my corbels. Here's a shot of the rope light:

http://images29.fotki.com/v1013/photos/6/649633/4065030/DSC00333-vi.jpg

Bud

Here are two examples of what I am wanting to do. I realize these countertops are made of concrete, but I was curious if any thinks it would be possible to just drill wholes in a prefab countertop and push fiber optic lights through from the backside. Maybe I need to start a thread. I don't want to hijack this one. I just figured since a lot of people here have great bar ideas....

http://i183.photobucket.com/albums/x105/darrenwander/IMG_6046.jpg
<p>
http://i183.photobucket.com/albums/x105/darrenwander/two.gif

Ah, got it now. That's pretty interesting. So my post was completely off on a tangent that your original question (even though I quoted you) and I apologize for that. I just needed one more shameless plug for my bar ....

I would think that as neat as it is, that over time that may get old. That's me though. You can't change it once you do it, you'd probably want to replace the countertop if you were to sell the house, etc.

Again, just me.

Bud

Don't worry about hijacking this thread. New ideas are always welcome.

Bud,

Your bar is too clean :)

Calm before the storm, my friend!

Bud

Here are two examples of what I am wanting to do. I realize these countertops are made of concrete, but I was curious if any thinks it would be possible to just drill wholes in a prefab countertop and push fiber optic lights through from the backside. Maybe I need to start a thread. I don't want to hijack this one. I just figured since a lot of people here have great bar ideas....


I think drilling holes in a prefab countertop might be problematic. A couple of issues I can think of off hand are sealing the holes for watertightness and getting a consistent look.

Making a concrete countertop with the fiberoptic cable built-in isn't that hard. Check out Fu-Tung Cheng's website (I don't know the address offhand). He's a master, and has detailed dvds and books available that give a step-by-step of how to make concrete counters.

I think drilling holes in a prefab countertop might be problematic. A couple of issues I can think of off hand are sealing the holes for watertightness and getting a consistent look.

Making a concrete countertop with the fiberoptic cable built-in isn't that hard. Check out Fu-Tung Cheng's website (I don't know the address offhand). He's a master, and has detailed dvds and books available that give a step-by-step of how to make concrete counters.


WOW! I found his site... http://www.chengdesign.com/

Hmmm, okay, now I ask the question. Anyone on here know of anyone who has tried making a concrete countertop? I might just be crazy enough to try it. Just not sure how I would move it once it was formed. :)

There's a poster here at AVS that created a concrete countertop. He posted in one of the myriad bar threads that are sprinkled around here and in the other construction forums.

Hey All:

I've been following this thread while I've been building my bar and wanted to share some pics. It's about 11ft long and I left a little over 3 feet behind the
bar so I would have room to move around. Cabinets were unfinished oak form the Borg and used 2 layers of 3/4 inch ply for tile base. I still need to do the bar back and plan on a glass rack above the sink. How did you all attach the mirror to your bar backs?? Take Care

Here's a couple more pics (wish I knew how to make them show up in the post).

Wow Daverph.. very nice work. The tile looks great and I really like the dark stain. I like your trim also. You are really going to enjoy that bad boy! Thanks for sharing the photos.

Hey Now,great Bar, What brand are the red seats in your theater?

Sundull,

The booths are Central Restaurant Supply.

http://www.centralrestaurant.com/Upholstered-BoothsSingle-c130g835.html

The theater seats are Berklines.

Fall is here and it's been a while since I posted any updates, I've been working on the stage panels in my spare time. Taking black fabric photos is difficult. I've also been tying up loose ends outside before the weather gets worse. We have over 10 acres so we stay pretty busy.

Here is a pic from a couple of summers ago. Our front yard is a 3 acre pond

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y84/HeyNowWV/shadehouse.jpg

One from last fall looking from the front porch

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y84/HeyNowWV/Picture206.jpg

Facing left side of the house towards Little North Mountain

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y84/HeyNowWV/flagmountain.jpg

Looks like a great place!

Bud

HeyNow, Great spot!!!
did you have any problems with the water level in that pond this year? A few blocks from me a guy has a pond that almost dried up this summer.

Thanks Bud/BIGmouthinDC,

Jeff, we were down about 18 inches this year. Deepest part is about 14 feet deep on the far end and 4 feet deep near the house. We have a pretty big watershed since we are located at the base of the mountain. So when we get any rain, the inflow will last a couple of days. I'm guessing that we might have a small spring feeding the deep end.

Very scenic. I hope the prevailing winds don't blow all those leaves onto your property, though. I'd HATE to rake all of THOSE up!

Rake? Never! :)

I'm taking a guess here, but is that very high quality crown molding ?
it really looks like it, so I thought I would ask ! :)


The beginning of the application of the bar railing. I love this stuff. It drove me crazy, but it looks good and is very comfortable.

wow, nice built also softball !

I'm going to guess again, is that crown molding ?

and what about the top, is that wood flooring ? or is that a laminate ?
it looks amazing.


The bar is finally finished. As you can see in the photo's, I stole Randy's plans blind!
http://i197.photobucket.com/albums/aa189/softball_80/b01a.jpg

No crown...it's bar railing.

Hi Randy,

where would I get this stuff ? I haven't a clue where to even start looking.

I'd really appreciate a link if you have one where you bought yours.

Beauty of a job I might add, I could see myself entertaining there for hours. An amazing cozy spot indeed !


No crown...it's bar railing.

Hi Randy,

I did a Google for "bar railing" and I am not having any success finding wooden trim for the top of the bar as you have there. All I'm getting is the metal railings you would put your feet on for example, or a metal railing that would attach to the top of a bar you'd see in a pub or commercial bar... maybe I"m using the wrong lingo.

Zippo,

Try Rockler. I think Bud mentioned he saw it there. Look in your local yellow pages for Hardwood dealers, or high end lumber yards. You should see it there. I got mine at McDaniels Hardwoods near me. Look back through this thread and you will see a couple of links. They have a website but no pictures of the railing.

Good luck.

Here is an example. I bought mine from a local "specialty" lumber yard. The occasional Lowes or HD will be able to special order it, but will probably be getting it from that same specialty place.
http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=5762&filter=bar%20rail

Check your local yellow pages for a "mill" yard, where they "mill" lumber for specialty trim like this. That's where I got mine.

Hi Randy,

Thanks for the info, much appreciated.

Randy, what is the size of your bar rail, do you remember offhand the
dimensions of it ? , I found a place but they have 2 different sizes of rail, and one is a lot more per foot, so if I knew what size yours was, that would give me a better visual in my head on what I would like on my future bar.

The "larger" rail has these dimensions:
Imperial Size => 1-3/4" x 5-1/4" Metric Size => 44mm x 133mm

The "smaller" rail has these dimensions:
Imperial Size => 1-1/4" x 3-5/8" Metric Size => 32mm x 92mm

which one would be closer to the size that you added to your bar Randy ?

Thanks for any info, that would be greatly appreciated.

Patrick and Irmo, thanks also for your input, I'm checking that link and will do a search for that keyword.



Zippo,

Try Rockler. I think Bud mentioned he saw it there. Look in your local yellow pages for Hardwood dealers, or high end lumber yards. You should see it there. I got mine at McDaniels Hardwoods near me. Look back through this thread and you will see a couple of links. They have a website but no pictures of the railing.

Good luck.

Zippo, check out post #29 on the first page of this thread. You will see a cross section of my bar and it will show you the exact bar railing I used. There are several large bar railing applications out there. Mine has steps to use two 3/4 ply wood substrates.

Once you see the cross section pics, you will understand.

Good luck

Hi Randy,

I went over and looked, and from the shape of the bar railing, it's the exact same shape as the one I can get my hands on, however, I'm still puzzled as to the actual width of the one you have there.

I'm going to guess the width is about the same as the large model I described in my other post before this one.

Offhand, do you know what the diameter is of the top of your railing ?

here are the 2 that are available to me below...

http://img209.imageshack.us/img209/1096/br451kb4.jpg
http://img209.imageshack.us/img209/2230/br450yd9.jpg

Zippo, check out post #29 on the first page of this thread. You will see a cross section of my bar and it will show you the exact bar railing I used. There are several large bar railing applications out there. Mine has steps to use two 3/4 ply wood substrates.

Once you see the cross section pics, you will understand.

Good luck

Definitely the larger one!

Ok thanks Randy.

It's hard to know without knowing what yours was, I could go and order the smaller one and realize only when I have it, that it's far too small :-(

By the way, - have you ever used the Power Bridge product ?

I came across this a couple of days ago, and it's very interesting. As of now, I don't see any other solution to get a filtered power up to a TV mounted on the wall.

Do you know of any less expensive way ? or is this what you have used for your mounted TVs ?

I went to HomeDepot yesterday, and couldn't find anything like this product, I found a recessed wall outlet, ( it's actually made for wall mounted clocks ) and is basically the upper part of the power bridge package, but the bottom outlet ? - it now seems it's impossible to find this on its own.

Just wondering if you have any other way of doing it, or is the power bridge the only way to go ?

thanks for the fast responses
Definitely the larger one!

Check out this thread:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=701635

I got my from McDaniels Hardwood and highly recommend them!

I know that I saw a thread on the power bridge install on here a while back. Try a search on the Construction forum. My cord reached my outlet okay.

Hi again Randy,

what type of wood did you order for your bar railing ?

I'm looking at notty pine for mine, but I have a feeling this may be
too "cheap" and may not look good.

I may go for red oak, but it's just a bit more than double the price of the notty pine.

I used Oak. Hefty and durable. It's a personal choice.

Thanks Randy :-)

That's a nice color you chose for the stain, how do you get a color
that is good without actually buying the stain, or did you just find one you liked and took a chance ?

Also - the flooring on the top of your bar is awesome, did you vaneer it ?
so that no spills will go in between the wooden planks ? ( I'm guessing so ) but thought I would ask. ( sorry for all the questions )


I used Oak. Hefty and durable. It's a personal choice.

Most of the big box stores will show a display of their stains on oak and pine. That will give you some idea of how the finish will look.

The top is made up of 3/4 inch prefinished flooring. I filled the remaining grooves with filler and applied another coat or two of poly over that.

We don't mind questions!

Zippo, this may help you:

http://www.psaudio.com/products/soloist.asp

I think I can get them about 50.00 cheaper if thats something you're interested in. Good solution for projectors too. You'd just have to tie it to an existing outlet via 14/2.

Bud

Bud,

I may be wrong, but I thought this is what he was asking about and what I was referring to;

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=917968&highlight=power+bridge

Got it. Based on this comment "I don't see any other solution to get a filtered power up to a TV mounted on the wall."

I was thinking filter/power conditioner for the TV, like the Furman one (I think it was a furman one) where you have the conditioner in the rack and you can connect it by running romex from there to a projector. Sort of the same setup with the recessed plug as in the other thread. I was thinking conditioner, not necessarily the connector portion.

Either one will require Romex to install, but the one I posted will filter/protect at the TV/projector. Thinking about adding on to my projector setup. I have the outlet on a separate circuit than the rack, which is on a Furman conditioner. So this would be ideal for that.

Zippo, if you're just looking for a recessed outlet only for the plug, the clock outlet would work fine. Heck, I've mount a few flat panel TVs and there is ample room for the plug due to the offset of the mount and that most of these TVs have already though that through and are usually not in the way.

Bud

Does anyone know where you can buy the Bar Rail moulding that HeyNow used for his bar? I have a 3/4" plywood base, and was hoping to do something similar to what HeyNow did with just another 3/4" top. I went on Rockler.com and that requires another 1.75" on top of the base. I guess I could just put more plywood to build the base higher, but I'm trying to avoid that if possible.

My moulding requires 2 layers of 3/4. McDaniels Hardwood is where I got mine. I think Neuner did also.

My moulding requires 2 layers of 3/4. McDaniels Hardwood is where I got mine. I think Neuner did also.

Yep. Great stuff & cheap. No matter where you get the wood, ask the age of it. Mine was pretty fresh and it wasn't dried out enough. It shrank after it was installed and my tight joints became gaps.

Zippo - sorry for the long delay in replying. I got my bar rail from Rockler's

Also, the top is indeed prefinished tongue and groove oak flooring. BTW, Lowes had some boxes that had been returned and were open. Each had a piece or two missing, but were half price - $35 vs. $70. Plenty for my bar top, and with wood to spare!

HeyNow your bar is sweeet! I have a question for you if you don't mind. At the back of the bar, the shelf that has the mirror and bottle/glass storage.... were did you buy it, or did you make it.

Also a question about the arm rail, do you need a compound miter saw or can it be cut with a regular miter saw as long as you have the two 3/4" layers of plywood under it.

Again, excellent bar.

Thanks Lefty,

The shelf is an 8 foot (approx) 1X6 solid oak board. I then built two boxes that set on top of the shelf all 1X oak. I then trimmed the "boxes" and bottom shelf. I put another 8 foot 1X6 oak board on top of the "boxes" then put crown molding on that. Essentially, it is two boxes with a top and bottom shelf trimmed out.

The bar rail didn't require any compound miter cuts. I do have a 10 inch compound miter saw. If I recall, I may have had to turn it over to finish the cut... you certainly want to place it into the miter saw so it is laying as you would want it on the bar to make an accurate cut.

Let me know if you have any additional questions.

Thanks so much for the quick response. I guess the shelving behind my bar will be yet another project! I'm actually going to take a trip down to McDaniels next week to pick up some bar rail (I'll call first to make sure they have some in stock). I can't wait to get this thing finished, your thread has been extremely helpful. Have you put the envirotex on your bar top, I haven't built my top yet but I'm going to use oak cabinet grade plywood.

No I have not put the enviortex on yet. I'm still debating that one. I have been busy mocking up a gas fireplace surround, star field panels...Christmas stuff....too much to do. Please post some picture of your efforts. I pondered putting oak ply on the top....I bet it's going to look great!

Good luck.

BTW the McDaniels guys are a great group. When they give me a quote on the phone it always seems higher than what they actually charge me. I'm always complementary of their service and products and it seems to reflect on the final bill!

I have been searching the internet for info on building a bar for some time and this is exactly what I've been looking for. Very nice.. I've been building a house for 5 years and now is the time to finish my basement and add a bar.

I will be back for questions but boy, am I glad I found this forum.

Great work, guys..

Just an update, I have been working on my star ceiling the past few weeks. I have three 4x8 foot Black Celtic covered 1/4 hard board with 96 stars each panel. The panels are trimmed on the perimeter with 1x2s and one in the middle. I did get my fir strips on the ceiling while company was here this holiday I really appreciated the help. Oh, and I am working on the sound panels...not stained yet..just working on the positioining....I am going to move the poster boxes too...


http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e393/heynow123/PC250012.jpg

http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e393/heynow123/PC250011.jpg

http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e393/heynow123/PC250010.jpg

http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e393/heynow123/PC250013.jpg



Pics of the panels soon...I got a new DSLR Nikon D80 for Christmas and have not uploaded the photos yet....

I have taken the ceiling fan down and am trying to figure out how I can use the existing 3 way switch to my favor. I am favoring two can lights on the front row outside the star field....Suggestions from the masters?

So let me understand... you're going to nail the panels to the furring or are you thinking about a coffered look?

Interesting question about the electric. Can you pull new wire of are you trying to extend it? Not knowing where the switch is, since you're covering the ceiling, you could tear into it since it'll he hidden (maybe remud it, but not paint it). You could put in a junction box, but I think code says it must be accessible. You could use the existing box for the celing fan as the junction box and cover it, but obviously it'll be covered with star panels. Is it a 3 way or did you mean 14-3 wiring to the fan (fan and light)?

Bud

Bud,

Yes, I am going to nail the panels up to the firring stips. The fan and light works off of two switches, one at the bar and one at the bottom of the steps. As a matter of fact, the bar fan and lights work on the switches also. I plan on putting a cover on the box but first I want to run any power outside of the star panels via the old fan box. I was thinking of two can lights. I can't run new wire to the switch without going through all of the joists....not something I want to do.

HeyNow,

I love the bar, booth, and table area you have. We are trying to do our room similiar to yours. I saw the post as to where you go the booths, but what about the table? Did it come from the same place? Do you know of others places to purchase these type of items?

Thanks,
Stephen

Stephen,

I am pretty sure that I purchased the table and legs from the same place. You usually have to purchase them separately. You have several choices on legs, single (weighted round bottom), dual (two T legs) or cantilevered wall mount. I went with the dual for stability. The wall mount cantilevered is great, but I wanted to be able to move my table around. The shipping is pretty high since the table top is heavy. There are a lot of sites out there selling table tops. Do a yahoo or goggle.

Hope this helps,

Good luck

Your bar stools are awesome! I really like the look and stools w/ arms too but I'm concerned on their functionality. Any second thoughts on stools without arms?
Thanks!

No regrets on the armed chairs from us!

I have another question for you if you don't mind.... I was wondering if you had any tips on cutting the arm rail, my first attempt wasn't very successful, I made a jig like the guys at Mcdaniels provided, but I guess something was off, when you butt the miters together they don't line up perfectly (i made 22.5 degree cuts to form a 45 which isn't the problem there is no gap it's like if you line up the back of each, the fronts don't line up), something was obviously off just not sure. Any thoughts, it would be greatly appreciated

One of your angles is off. What are you using to cut it?

10" chop saw, I suppose I might just have to experiment with some scraps, it's pretty darn frustrating!

Assuming you're placing your boards underneath the rail to make a platform to cut upon...

Don't count on the numbers being exactly 22.5 degrees (or whatever). Make one cut and then try several practice cuts until you find an angle that works with that existing cut, and then make your final cut to match.

I had to make several passes on each of mine before I settled on a perfect, super-tight joint.

The most important thing is the leveling platform though. Seems like I just used a 2x4 for mine to flatten it out.

P.S. Work from one end of the bar to the other. That way in each turn (45 degrees, 90 degrees, whatever) of the bar you can have an existing cut to work from for the next.

P.P.S. One last thing. :D If your complimentary angles are way off from each other...in your 45 degree scenario, say as much as 21 degrees on one side and 24 degrees on the other side...you're going to get a little of that "not matching" effect you posted about above. In other words, one side of your joint is going to stick out a little more than the other. You can correct minor differences like this with some sanding...but for big differences it will be hard to correct. Maybe that's what you're running into, I dunno.

Thanks IrmoGamecoq, the "not matching" is exactly what is happening.... I will take you suggestions and give it another try. How did you build your leveling platform, I'm pretty sure that't my problem, those hefty 10 foot sections are a bit awkward. Thanks again I really appreciate the help.

Maybe it would help to get your angles right on some smaller pieces first. Use some scrap pieces just for angle experimentation. I know the Bar Rail is pricey, but sparing a couple of feet for practice cuts could be the solution.

As for the platform...all you need is something to place under the Bar Rail to get it "level" (i.e. how it will be on the actual bar). For me, all that meant was placing a 2x4 in one of the notches under the Rail before I cut it. You can slide the 2x4 down out of the way so it still supports the rail while cutting, but is not being cut itself.

Hope that makes some sort of sense...

Sounds like when you cut the 22.5 degree you are not holding it in the saw on the angle you will be installing it. It is hard to explain, but I will try. You bar rail sits on an angle when installed. It rises usually 3/4" If you just lay it flat on the bed of the saw and cut the angle, when you raise it to install the outer part of the angle will be off really bad.
The best way to do it is to use a scrap piece and fit it under the piece during cutting so the bar rail sits at the correct angle (same angle as when you install) when you make the cut. I hope this makes sense:o

Look through this thread back on the first page (maybe 2nd) and you will see a cut away of my bar top. You can see the two 3/4 "steps" that the railing rests on. You have to cut the railing while it is in that same position on your saw.

However, from what I am reading, you are really having a matching angle issue. One side longer or shorter than the other indicates that angle position on one side of the saw is not matching up. The above posters are right on the mark.

This is the same principle used when cutting/installing crown molding (without the compound mitre cuts). You might have some luck googling instructions for that and then applying the same concepts to the bar rail process. Just ignore the parts about compound mitre cuts and concentrate on how they use their platform.

Great thread... lots of inspiration here!

Got it! I finally got the bar rail cut very nicely. I hate to tell you guys what the problem was but sinceeveryone was so helpful I'll tell ya'. I wasn't actually cutting 22.5 degree angles..... I was looking at the saw table and rotated to where it actaully states 22.5, but the actual indent or tick mark was three ticks over (filled with sawdust and various other pieces of crud). So it was basically a stupid mistake because I didn't take my time and concentrate on what I was doing. Thanks again for everyones suggestions.

Happy to hear you got it figured out. I hope you are taking pictures of your process and progress that you can share with everyone.

Good luck, I'm sure it's going to turn out great.

Glad it worked out and don't worry about the goof...happens to all of us!

No I have not put the enviortex on yet. I'm still debating that one. I have been busy mocking up a gas fireplace surround, star field panels...Christmas stuff....too much to do. Please post some picture of your efforts. I pondered putting oak ply on the top....I bet it's going to look great!

Good luck.

BTW the McDaniels guys are a great group. When they give me a quote on the phone it always seems higher than what they actually charge me. I'm always complementary of their service and products and it seems to reflect on the final bill!
Randy,
I am debating on whether to go the envirotex route too. I'm getting ready in the next month to put down the (grooved) oak floor planking and thinking about putting down several coats of spar varnish instead because grooved planking runoff concerns.
I just checked the envirotex directions and they mention putting several light "seal coats" first...not sure that would help "build up" the grooves somewhat. It was sure good to have Neuner post his results and his lessons learned.

Duce,

We have done both. I wasn't satisfied with what I saw online and in person. My advice is not to settle for what is available immediately. If we had done that, we would have many regrets. Fortunately, we kept looking and one day at Sam's Club, we found what we really liked. Excellent construction, comfortable stools. Of course, they no longer sell what we found, so only getting four stools did raise some concerns with acquiring more stools in the same style later.

Again, look at every available outlet you can find, be it online or local B&M. Good luck, Duce!

Randy,

I really like the chairs. Is it possible to find the maker's name on the bottom of the cushion or someplace.
Thank you,

Dick