I can't seem to get the subwoofer to work with my 5.1 analog connection from my A1

This is a known problem for months now. Do a search through the forum for threads on this topic. And read the entry about three up from yours to see one solution.

This is a known problem for months now. Do a search through the forum for threads on this topic. And read the entry about three up from yours to see one solution.No problems with a gen 1 HD DVD player -- A1, D1 or XA1. Just the industry standard +10 dB LFE boost externally needed for an analog input connection. Many SACD/DVD-A (and even Blu-ray) players connected via 5.1 analog connections need the same +10 dB LFE boost.

The HD-XA2 however seems to have a bass management issue that Toshiba is supposed to be in the process of fixing with a future firmware update (>1.5 f/w).

I was reading this topic yesterday due to "low volume" issues I'm having with newly purchased Warner HD's (Last Samurai and Phantom of the Opera). At around page 20, It was posted that there is a problem with some early Warner discs. Did the problem get fixed? Should I send the discs back for replacements?

OK, I have no read through most of this thread and still can't find a solution to my problem. I have a Onkyo system from a few years back (I think its an HT500) and am set up with an A1 and 5.1 analog. My problem is that I can't get any LFE out of my subwoofer at least as far as I can tell (there no deep rumbling sound over 5.1 but it exists over optical). Otherwise the sound is great but no LFE. I have been using Happy Feet to test this.

So, I have tried the various suggested solutions including: (1) changing the speaker size to small and large; (2) changing the crossover between 80 and 120; (3) increasing the dcb in my receiver for my sub to 10 dcb; and (4) lowering the dcb in everything but my sub through the A1 to -10. In all of these cases when I do the A1 test tones I get nothing at all from my sub. Now I understand that the A1 test tones are screwy so that's why I'm verifying using an HD DVD.

I have also checked the connection and read my Onkyo and A1 manuals. Is there something basic I am missing? Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!

On my display I have audio showing Dolby True HD but Audio output is Digital Bitstream from Hdmi. I set up hdmi on the tosh to auto. What am I doing wrong. I'm using Batman Begins and Constantine.

Found the problem.

Which was?

I'm still getting bitstream from audio out. The front display say Multi. I have rev 2.0. I give up need help. I reload rev 2.0 and thought that was the problem. :confused:

On my display I have audio showing Dolby True HD but Audio output is Digital Bitstream from Hdmi. I set up hdmi on the tosh to auto. What am I doing wrong. I'm using Batman Begins and Constantine.

I just looked at mine. A1 HDMI is set to auto. I get PCM on AVR.
So your saying you are getting Dolby Digital when its set to auto?

I'm still getting bitstream from audio out. The front display say Multi. I have rev 2.0. I give up need help. :confused:

What is HDMI set to on A1?

What does your AVR say when watching movie?
Make sure you select TrueHD from setup menu.

OK, I have no read through most of this thread and still can't find a solution to my problem. I have a Onkyo system from a few years back (I think its an HT500) and am set up with an A1 and 5.1 analog. My problem is that I can't get any LFE out of my subwoofer at least as far as I can tell (there no deep rumbling sound over 5.1 but it exists over optical). Otherwise the sound is great but no LFE. I have been using Happy Feet to test this.

So, I have tried the various suggested solutions including: (1) changing the speaker size to small and large; (2) changing the crossover between 80 and 120; (3) increasing the dcb in my receiver for my sub to 10 dcb; and (4) lowering the dcb in everything but my sub through the A1 to -10. In all of these cases when I do the A1 test tones I get nothing at all from my sub. Now I understand that the A1 test tones are screwy so that's why I'm verifying using an HD DVD.

I have also checked the connection and read my Onkyo and A1 manuals. Is there something basic I am missing? Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!
I get the same level 5.1 or HDMI. My 5.1 settings are front, center Large.
surrounds small. Sub set to USE crossover 120. I set the cross over on my sub itself to 80. Try that and let me know what you get.

I have HDMI set to auto.
Select on menu truehd on movie.
AVR display is MPCM.

I have HDMI set to auto.
Select on menu truehd on movie.
AVR display is MPCM.

If your AVR is saying MPCM, then why do you think you are getting bitstream?

When I hit display on the tosh remote is say audio out Bitstream is that right.

When I hit display on the tosh remote is say audio out Bitstream is that right.
The button on the remote doesnt change it from Dolby TruHD to Dolby. That is for different languages like English, French. That has nothing to do with the type of audio. You have to go to set up in the DVD menu. You go to "languages" there and select the audio. In the menu there is an audio button if you select it it tells you to use you audio button on your A1 remote. I am trying make this clear. If you dont see the Doby TrueHD selection in menu you are in wrong place. My Avr says PCM when receiving Dolby TrueHD over HDMI.
I beleive some AVR's will say mutichannel over HDMI.

When I hit display on the tosh remote is say audio out Bitstream is that right.
No.

Go to A1 setup menu . Its the setup button under the sliding panel on bottom of your A1 remote.
Then go to audio, go to HDMI settings, and set it to auto.

OK, I have no read through most of this thread and still can't find a solution to my problem. I have a Onkyo system from a few years back (I think its an HT500) and am set up with an A1 and 5.1 analog. My problem is that I can't get any LFE out of my subwoofer at least as far as I can tell (there no deep rumbling sound over 5.1 but it exists over optical). Otherwise the sound is great but no LFE. I have been using Happy Feet to test this.

So, I have tried the various suggested solutions including: (1) changing the speaker size to small and large; (2) changing the crossover between 80 and 120; (3) increasing the dcb in my receiver for my sub to 10 dcb; and (4) lowering the dcb in everything but my sub through the A1 to -10. In all of these cases when I do the A1 test tones I get nothing at all from my sub. Now I understand that the A1 test tones are screwy so that's why I'm verifying using an HD DVD.

I have also checked the connection and read my Onkyo and A1 manuals. Is there something basic I am missing? Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!


I posted this somewhere earlier, maybe it's in the audio FAQ thread and it's dead. Anyway, here it is again. Hope it helps:


It's very possible that if you use an analog input which does not redigitize the signal, you'll find the LFE (subwoofer) channel ends up being 10db or so lower in level compared to the other channels. For maximum fidelity, it's actually best this way (no A/D and D/A conversions) but it can be a little problematic to get adequate LFE levels. If you simply decrease all the channels other than LFE in the A1 menu, it results in having to operate too far up in the range on your AVR volume control (higher noise floor, more susceptible to hum). You will likely still have to decrease the other channels on the A1 (relative to the LFE channel which you leave at zero), but if you follow some/all of the following steps you can minimize this as much as possible which maintains an acceptable noise floor.

[I]Suggestions for analog LFE boost

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Q: I use the analog 5.1 outputs from the player into my AVR's "direct" or "passthru" input and I'm having trouble getting adequate volume from my subwoofer. I've used THX test tones and an SPL meter and I just can't get enough loudness from the subwoofer channel. What can I do?

A: First, be sure you've taken advantage of any possible subwoofer channel level controls on your AVR/pre-pro. Some apply these adjustments in the analog domain (best). Then, consider boosting the gain control on your subwoofer. Remember, you may have to re-adjust the subwoofer channel level on the AVR for digital inputs if you do this. Finally, setting all the speakers to Large in the A1 menu will maximize the LFE channel output. It gives about 4db more gain than when having rears/center set to Small. If you have taken these steps and you still need more sub gain to balance the LFE (subwoofer) channel, see below.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Fix found (analog LFE boost if using passthru connection)

I found a fix. It at least makes it workable.

I simply put an A/V distribution amp in-line with the analog LFE output. Supposedly, the specs on the amp say "1:1" meaning 2volts in, 2volts out but for whatever reason it results in about 5db gain on the LFE channel.
I theorize that it raises the LFE from maybe around 1V to 2Volts therefore resulting in gain. This allowed me to raise the other channels on the A1 by 5db to -7db. Basically, it lowers the system noise floor by 5db which is what I was after. Now, Warner Bros. discs (POTO for ex.) can produce satisfying volume with adequate S/N ratio.

I got the amp used from a local B&M but I really don't think there's anything special about the one I have and they are commonly available.

http://www.cable-electronics.com/Upload/compdistamp2.pdf

I have found prior to this that setting all speakers to Large in the A1 maximizes the LFE output and raises it around 4db compared to just having the mains at Large. This would be the first thing to do IMO. After this, use the A/V distribution amp for another 5db LFE gain if necessary.

As pointed out to me by bobgpsr, it is possible that the added LFE gain obtained via the A/V amp method may vary somewhat depending on your AVR/pre-pro's input impedance load.

I have HDMI set to auto.
Select on menu truehd on movie.
AVR display is MPCM.

Those settings would be correct. :)
If you are getting MPCM on your AVR. Then you are getting TrueHD. I correct myself my AVR says "Multichannel PCM" over HDMI.
On my 5.1 analog outs it says multichannel.

jsil when you hit display on your remote Audio Output is saying what?
Is it saying this while watching the actual movie? The opening credits and extras are not in TrueHD.

I think you are confused with that audio button on the horrible A1 remote.

Don't ever touch that button unless you want other languages :eek:
To me its silly to have audio selection on the DVD menu tell you to use the audio button on your remote. In turn it does not change the audio format. It changes the spoken language.

If you want to change the audio format from Dolby+ or TrueHD you have to go to languages on the disk menu, go figure.

Does anyone else feel the same here?

schnurmac,

I did select TrueHD in languages menu on the disc. On the front display of the Toshiba it has Multi indicator on. But when I check with the display button on the remote it has Audio TrueHD on top and at the bottom it has Audio out as bitstream. I thought it would be saying Multi CH or LPCM.

jsil: It one of those confusing things like the audio button.

I played with mine. The audio out is telling you what the SPDIF is set to. I changed my SPDIF to PCM and hit display on remote and it changed to PCM. So the audio out has no relevance to what is actually being out put through HDMI only SPDIF for coax or optical.

I assure you, you are getting Dolby TrueHD over HDMI if Audio is displaying TrueHD.

One question what does your AVR say?


One thing I want to add:
I did the latest firmware update this morning by ethernet. It took 50 minutes!

Thanks for your input.

Your welcome.

One question what does your AVR say when watching movie in TrueHD?

So for the most part, the A1's bass issue is not really an issue with the player, but is in reality the amplifier doesn't boost the lfe channel by +10db? But in the case of the XA2, there actually is a problem with the player itself?

schnurmac,

The display on the yam rx-v661 say's MPCM and I can overlay dolby pro logic IIx also.

In the A1 speaker setup for 6 channel analog, you can only reduce the volume of the sub-woofer to below zero and not raise to positive amounts?

In the A1 speaker setup for 6 channel analog, you can only reduce the volume of the sub-woofer to below zero and not raise to positive amounts?

You can go from 0 to -12 if memory serves. I believe 0 is the highest setting, which means the most bass and -12 would be the lowest setting, reducing bass. Someone correct me if I'm wrong.

[QUOTE=schnurmac
I think you are confused with that audio button on the horrible A1 remote.

Don't ever touch that button unless you want other languages
To me its silly to have audio selection on the DVD menu tell you to use the audio button on your remote. In turn it does not change the audio format. It changes the spoken language.
If you want to change the audio format from Dolby+ or TrueHD you have to go to languages on the disk menu, go figure.
Does anyone else feel the same here?[/QUOTE]

The audio button towards the top right on my XA1 remote does change the audio selection. I turn on the display first, then use the audio button to select True HD - of course it also cycles through the other languages as well - so it might say DD+ for Eng. for Spanish for French - whatever- too bad it doesn't say which. Of course you can tell with a moments listen. Usually True HD is just English so as soon as that is selected, you're all set.

I have a Yamaha amp and have no idea if cross-over frequency is being done by the amp during 6 channel analog. It seems that I can make quite a few adjustments while in analog mode, so I'm wondering if the cross-over frequency on the amp(set at 90hz) is interfering with the A1's cross-over frequency of either 100 or 80(no 90). Anybody know if this is happening? Should the amplifier's cross-over frequency be disabled during 6 channel analog?

I have a Yamaha amp and have no idea if cross-over frequency is being done by the amp during 6 channel analog?
You might want to include the model number. Maybe someone with the same model can provide a definite answer. Most receivers do not do bass management or other processing on the multichannel analog inputs, they simply amplify the signal and provide volume control. Bass management and processing requires converting the analog signal to digital. There are some high end receivers that do this, but most do not. Test disks such as Avia have frequency sweeps for specific channels that you can use to test if your receiver is directing low bass to the sub.

I have a Yamaha rx-v430. It is definitely not a high-end receiver, so I guess that would be good for me in this case.

I have just upgraded my system to have surround backs and presence. I cannot seem to get any sound in the back from the A1. I have tried all options, "i think". Does anyone know the correct combination to do this.

All other sources play Dolby Digital fine.

Thanks for any help in advance.

Does anyone else have a mild problem with dialog when using the 5.1 analog outs on the A1? Sound effects and bass sound pretty good, but the dialog sometimes sounds low, maybe even muddy.

I don't know if maybe it's just my speakers or something else specific to my setup. I'm using Athena Point 5's if that matters.

The audio button towards the top right on my XA1 remote does change the audio selection. I turn on the display first, then use the audio button to select True HD - of course it also cycles through the other languages as well - so it might say DD+ for Eng. for Spanish for French - whatever- too bad it doesn't say which. Of course you can tell with a moments listen. Usually True HD is just English so as soon as that is selected, you're all set.
Thanks moov. I didn't actually check it it out. But I will try it next time. To use it is like pushing my death button. Which is the resolution button. My kids pushed it once and it took me good while to figure out what was going on. It makes the movie stop and has to load up and start over. :eek:

Does anyone else have a mild problem with dialog when using the 5.1 analog outs on the A1? Sound effects and bass sound pretty good, but the dialog sometimes sounds low, maybe even muddy.

I don't know if maybe it's just my speakers or something else specific to my setup. I'm using Athena Point 5's if that matters.

I've had problems in the past with low dialog but it's only on certain movies. I don't see it on every movie and I think that I've seen it primarily on HD movies not SD. I haven't had much of a problem since I increased the db on the center channel. You might want to try that.

I have just upgraded my system to have surround backs and presence. I cannot seem to get any sound in the back from the A1. I have tried all options, "i think". Does anyone know the correct combination to do this.

All other sources play Dolby Digital fine.

Thanks for any help in advance.

How do you have the A1 connected to the receiver?

What processing mode is the receiver in?

What source?

Thanks moov. I didn't actually check it it out. But I will try it next time. To use it is like pushing my death button. Which is the resolution button. My kids pushed it once and it took me good while to figure out what was going on. It makes the movie stop and has to load up and start over. :eek:

Pushing the audio button shouldn't make the movie stop. It doesn't on mine anyway. The titles usually default to Dolby Digital Plus, so I turn on the display and press the audio button until it switches to True HD (if there is one) and then turn the display off - and the film continues on throughout.

How do you have the A1 connected to the receiver?

What processing mode is the receiver in?

What source?

The A1 is connected with HDMI. I went with straight and it does report the "MPCM" feed. It shows the Left Center Right SR SL lit.

The A1 is set HDMI Auto.

The source was MII and V for Vendetta.


Thanks for your help.

I have just upgraded my system to have surround backs and presence. I cannot seem to get any sound in the back from the A1. I have tried all options, "i think". Does anyone know the correct combination to do this.So you have a 7.1 speaker setup now? Then use the Ext Sur button and the right arrow on the remote control to cycle through the extra back channels processing options: DD PLIIx music, DD PLIIx movie, dts ES, Dolby EX, etc. You need to do this manually -- no auto flags for audio with HD DVD.

You are going to need to use one of the processing modes that Bob mentioned. The source is only 5.1. If you want rear surround material you need to extract it with one of the 6 or 7.1 channel algorithms.

Pushing the audio button shouldn't make the movie stop. It doesn't on mine anyway. The titles usually default to Dolby Digital Plus, so I turn on the display and press the audio button until it switches to True HD (if there is one) and then turn the display off - and the film continues on throughout.
Not the audio button.
The resolution button makes it stop.

You are going to need to use one of the processing modes that Bob mentioned. The source is only 5.1. If you want rear surround material you need to extract it with one of the 6 or 7.1 channel algorithms.
If he does this will it still be DolbyTrue HD?
I cannot get my backs with HD DVD's only SD DVD's.
How can I use my backs? I have an Onkyo 804?
Right now If I want to use them I switch to Multi Channel analog. I have split my surrounds. How do I do it with HDMI?

If he does this will it still be DolbyTrue HD?
I cannot get my backs with HD DVD's only SD DVD's.
How can I use my backs? I have an Onkyo 804?
Right now If I want to use them I switch to Multi Channel analog. I have split my surrounds. How do I do it with HDMI?

My Pio Elite 84 does apply PLIIx to the TrueHD PCM streams. It sounds very good.

Mine wont do it as far as I can tell. Im not as lucky I guess :(

After reading 40+ pages regarding the Analog Out of G1 Toshiba's LFE issues, I have finally resolved my AVR/Speaker LFE issues. Last night I watched Phantom of the Opera (Wonderful musical) and Batman begins with TrueHD enabled, I was so impressed with TrueHD sound I almost cried. The sound of TrueHD is so real and amazing it is almost a crime NOT to encode HighDef titles with it.

My setup (digital domain setup):

Panasonic SA HE200 connected to PolkAudio 5.1 speakers in a 5.0 configuration with Bass speaker passively crossed over from Front LR speakers via speaker level inputs.
AVR speaker size config (FL - Large, C - Small, FR - Large, SL - Small, SR - Small, Sub - None)

This setup have served me well for years and I had no problems at all with Bass Management from DD, DTS encoded titles from my PS3, XBOX360, Cable box and my HTPC via SPDIF connections.

But when I hooked up the Toshiba A1 using 6ch analog output and set my Panasonic to 6ch direct input, I lost almost all LFE from my speakers. I was so disappointed and I didn't know what to do until I started reading this thread. After reading so many useful information from all the knowledgeable posters, I had an epiphany regarding my setup, so last night I tried it out and it far exceeded my expectation.

My 6Ch direct analog Setup:

Toshiba A1 5.1 Speaker size configuration: FL - Large, C - Large, FR - Large, SL - Large, SR - Large, Sub Use, Xover 120 Hz

Toshiba A1 5.1 Speaker distance configuration: same as my AVR speaker distance configuration.

AVR setup: No Change from my Digital domain setup

Only difference and this was the KEY, I bought a 1 to 2 Y-Splitter and connected the Sub output from my AVR to the L/R line input of my Polk Audio Bass Speaker. So my bass speaker get the LF signals from my FL/FR speakers and the LFE signals from the LFE output of the toshiba (in 6 channel direct mode of Panasonic SA HE200, it passed the LFE frequency directly from Toshiba even though I set my sub to NOT CONNECTED in the speaker configuration of my Panasonic). And I didn't have to adjust the gain of my PolkAudio bass speaker to a different level.

Now I get all the sounds including the LFE. I did some rough calibration and I actually had to turn down the FR/FL and Center channels by -2db in the Toshiba setup because they were too bright and everything else remained at 0 db.

With the above setups, I don't have to muck with the BM anymore in either digital or analog domains. I am very happy with my setup now. TrueHD is wonderful, we should petition the studios to encode ALL HighDef titles with TrueHD.

Well, I just ran several comparisons using the old DVE disc in my Denon player (coming in via optical), the SD DVD in the A1, and the HD version, after upgrading to FW 2.2. It appears that the 10dB discprepancy still exists in the DVE sub tones - can anyone confirm? Also, a minor oddity I noticed is that the A1 will not allow me to select the 6.1 test tones on the SD side - it just highlights the "Return" option. Weird. I can't remember where, but it was posted that the BM problem is only apparent when using Dolby TrueHD or Dolby Digital Plus over the analog channels. Regular DD or DTS is not affected, even over analog...? This was not what I found in my comparisons, however. Everything coming over the analog channels appears to be affected equally. I believe that HDMI is not affected at all, but I have no way to check this. My Denon is applying a +15dB boost to the analog LFE, and I had to bump the AVR trim to +2.0. This is in contrast to my regular standard def player (coming in via optical), which has an AVR trim of -2.0.... I have also heard that the LFE problem is related to the distribution of LFE to the mains if they are set to "large". I keep all my mains to small, so I don't know about that one.

Long story short (too late, I know): even with the HD DVD version of DVE, my satellites are calibrated to 75dB, and the subs to 85dB.

Well, I just ran several comparisons using the old DVE disc in my Denon player (coming in via optical), the SD DVD in the A1, and the HD version, after upgrading to FW 2.2. It appears that the 10dB discprepancy still exists in the DVE sub tones - can anyone confirm? Also, a minor oddity I noticed is that the A1 will not allow me to select the 6.1 test tones on the SD side - it just highlights the "Return" option. Weird. I can't remember where, but it was posted that the BM problem is only apparent when using Dolby TrueHD or Dolby Digital Plus over the analog channels. Regular DD or DTS is not affected, even over analog...? This was not what I found in my comparisons, however. Everything coming over the analog channels appears to be affected equally. I believe that HDMI is not affected at all, but I have no way to check this. My Denon is applying a +15dB boost to the analog LFE, and I had to bump the AVR trim to +2.0. This is in contrast to my regular standard def player (coming in via optical), which has an AVR trim of -2.0.... I have also heard that the LFE problem is related to the distribution of LFE to the mains if they are set to "large". I keep all my mains to small, so I don't know about that one.

Long story short (too late, I know): even with the HD DVD version of DVE, my satellites are calibrated to 75dB, and the subs to 85dB.

The "LFE issue" is a problem with the receiver, not the player. I'm not familiar with the Denon's but I thought the Pioneer Elites were the only ones that had this problem (which is now fixed with a FW upgrade for them). It affects any player-decoded tracks - so that means analog or LPCM delivered over HDMI. Bitstream (where the tracks are decoded by the receiver) regardless of how its sent (coax, optical, or HDMI) will not have the issue.

I've been reading and have been trying to figure out a solution or now in hopes of some opinion about setup. I've been using the A1 as an upconverting dvd player for watching my library of dvds. What is the preferred setup for standard DVD audio. Is it using an digital optical, digital coaxial, or 5 channel analog and should I set it ot bitstream? Using the 5 channel analog, the sound from my sub is really low. I've got a yamaha rxv-3300 and it doesn't have hdmi so that's not an option.

For SD DVD use one of the digital connections (optical, coax, or HDMI) and send bitstream.

For SD DVD use one of the digital connections (optical, coax, or HDMI) and send bitstream.If I have 5.1 analong and digital coax connected, will the player automagically output the audio via the analog if playing an HD-DVD and by coax if an SD-DVD?

Thanks.

If I have 5.1 analong and digital coax connected, will the player automagically output the audio via the analog if playing an HD-DVD and by coax if an SD-DVD?

Thanks.

I don't know for sure because I've never used the analog connections but they might both be live...

If I have 5.1 analong and digital coax connected, will the player automagically output the audio via the analog if playing an HD-DVD and by coax if an SD-DVD?
I think the 5.1 analog connections are always live and will output whatever you are playing regardless of other connections. Likewise I think the coax always outputs something, but the format will depend on the SPDIF settings.

just got a new dlp tv using the hd-a1 and would like to use hdmi for video only and analog outputs for sound reason being i am using a older pre-pro and dont want to upgrade love the sound from it been reading and want to confirm that this is possible god i hope so ....

god i hope so ....
Your CAPS key is broken.

God

thats it huh MY CAPS KEY IS BROKEN WOW WHAT INSIGHT see its not broken thanks for all the help

Wouldn't that be the "shift" key?

Anyways to answer the question yes you can use the analogs and HDMI at the same time. This is how I use to run my A1 till i picked up an HDMI receiver.

If I have 5.1 analong and digital coax connected, will the player automagically output the audio via the analog if playing an HD-DVD and by coax if an SD-DVD?

Thanks.
I don't think anyone has really answered his question
If Im correct he is asking if the player will automatically change the output for a specific format. NO it wont. Its not an AVR. Its a player.
The player is outputting at ALL connections ALL the time! The player is not going to control your AVR. You have to select Multi Channel for analog on your AVR if you want to watch HDDVD in TrueHD. And DVD or what ever input you have selected for your coax.
Just set your SPDIF on player to bitstream. Thats is what you want it output on coax.
I have mine connected A1 HDMI set to auto AVR input DVD
A1 analog 5.1 connected to AVR's MultiChannel input Its input is MultiChannel.
A1 connected coax, SPDIF set to bitstream on A1, connected to AVR input CD.
But if I want to watch a movie and hear sound over coax. I have to change my audio input for DVD on my AVR setup to what ever input the coax is in.
I always use the HDMI for everything HDDVD and SD.
But if I want to hear analog I select MultiChannel on AVR
If I want to listen to cd over coax I select cd.
The same goes for optical.
The player is always outputting sound at all connections!

what model did you pickup for a reciever i am using outlaw audio pre-pro 950 with the 7100 amp works great for a few years now and other than hdmi switching cant see any other reason to change and from what i hear the model 990 is a nightmare so the programed macro that i am going to setup should take care of the button pressing for me . what do you think of the toshiba unit i love it lag time starting up dvd's doesnt seem to matter to me i always need a few min to get my 2 year old son ready to watch a movie anyway so its cool thanks for the response .

I don't think anyone has really answered his question
If Im correct he is asking if the player will automatically change the output for a specific format. NO it wont. Its not an AVR. Its a player.
The player is outputting at ALL connections ALL the time! The player is not going to control your AVR. You have to select Multi Channel for analog on your AVR if you want to watch HDDVD in TrueHD. And DVD or what ever input you have selected for your coax.
Just set your SPDIF on player to bitstream. Thats is what you want it output on coax.
I have mine connected A1 HDMI set to auto AVR input DVD
A1 analog 5.1 connected to AVR's MultiChannel input Its input is MultiChannel.
A1 connected coax set to SPDIF set to bitstream on A1, connected to AVR input CD.
But if I want to watch a movie and hear sound over coax. I have to change my audio input in my AVR setup to what ever input the coax is in.
I always use HDMI for everything.
But if I want to hear analog I select MultiChannel on AVR
If I want to listen to cd over coax I select cd.
The same goes for optical.
The player is always outputting sound at all connectionsThanks!

I don't think anyone has really answered his question
If Im correct he is asking if the player will automatically change the output for a specific format. NO it wont. Its not an AVR. Its a player.
The player is outputting at ALL connections ALL the time! The player is not going to control your AVR. You have to select Multi Channel for analog on your AVR if you want to watch HDDVD in TrueHD. And DVD or what ever input you have selected for your coax.
Just set your SPDIF on player to bitstream. Thats is what you want it output on coax.
I have mine connected A1 HDMI set to auto AVR input DVD
A1 analog 5.1 connected to AVR's MultiChannel input Its input is MultiChannel.
A1 connected coax, SPDIF set to bitstream on A1, connected to AVR input CD.
But if I want to watch a movie and hear sound over coax. I have to change my audio input for DVD on my AVR setup to what ever input the coax is in.
I always use the HDMI for everything HDDVD and SD.
But if I want to hear analog I select MultiChannel on AVR
If I want to listen to cd over coax I select cd.
The same goes for optical.
The player is always outputting sound at all connections!

To secure TrueD don't you have to change the player's SPDIF setting to PCM? The analog inputs are not associated with the HDMI input which on the player can be set to Auto. I have the A1.

To secure TrueD don't you have to change the player's SPDIF setting to PCM? The analog inputs are not associated with the HDMI input which on the player can be set to Auto. I have the A1.

S/PDIF can only deliver the two main front channels of LPCM. S/PDIF configuration has no effect on the rest of the player outputs. The analog outputs are always active.

S/PDIF can only deliver the two main front channels of LPCM. S/PDIF configuration has no effect on the rest of the player outputs. The analog outputs are always active.

Dude, thank you. Understanding the analog channel delivered PCM I thought you had to change some setting on the player to PCM. If I now get it correctly, the audio SPDIF setting only effects the coax input, the HDMI for HDMI input, and there is no player audio setting for the analog input.

Dude, thank you. Understanding the analog channel delivered PCM I thought you had to change some setting on the player to PCM. If I now get it correctly, the audio SPDIF setting only effects the coax input, the HDMI for HDMI input, and there is no player audio setting for the analog input.
How do you have A1 connected and what are the setting on your A1?

How do you have A1 connected and what are the setting on your A1?

HDMI from player to SONY tv
Optical connect from player to AVR
Analog connect from player to AVR

Audio settings are:
HDMI = auto
SPDIF =bitsteam

I had been changing the SPDIF setting to PCM when playing TrueD through the A1.

HDMI from player to SONY tv
Optical connect from player to AVR
Analog connect from player to AVR

Audio settings are:
HDMI = auto
SPDIF =bitsteam

I had been changing the SPDIF setting to PCM when playing TrueD through the A1.

TrueHD will never come out SPDIF.

It only comes out 5.1 Analog or HDMI.

TrueHD will never come out SPDIF.

It only comes out 5.1 Analog or HDMI.

So I've learnt. Why does the SPDIF have a pcm choice?

So I've learnt. Why does the SPDIF have a pcm choice?

So you can get 2 channel PCM instead of 5.1 DD.

USELESS in my BOOK.

Dude, thank you. Understanding the analog channel delivered PCM I thought you had to change some setting on the player to PCM. If I now get it correctly, the audio SPDIF setting only effects the coax input, the HDMI for HDMI input, and there is no player audio setting for the analog input.

Correct!

Terminology clarification: 1) Whatever soundtrack you select that is supported by the player is decoded for analog output (it doesn't actually ouput PCM since PCM is by definition digital). 2) S/P-DIF is actually a very specific digital data format (as is PCM) that specifically applies to the legacy (ie traditional) Toslink and Coax digital outputs -- since S/P-DIF can support two modes, LPCM or bitstream, it requires a configuration option. 3) HDMI audio can be charactersized as a high-bitrate multi-channel parallel version of the legacy S/P-DIF serial communications. It has the same basic two modes available, plus it adds "Auto" where supported advanced audio codecs are converted to LPCM format for output, and legacy codecs are output in traditional bitstream.

Hope this info helps clarify a little :).

TrueHD will never come out SPDIF.

It only comes out 5.1 Analog or HDMI.

I'm not sure exactly what the upper limit is for S/PDIF LPCM, but since it has been previously used for high bitrate (96Kbps) high bit depth (20 - 24 bit) audiophile recordings in a CD layout, I don't see why there would be an inherent problem in it delivering two channels of DD-THD. Consequently -- I disagree that it flatly cannot support TrueHD, though to be sure, it can't support more than two channels.

PS. I haven't read any specific evaluation of S/PDIF LPCM limitations in the Toshibas -- it could artificially limit to 48KHz and 16 bit, don't know.

HDMI from player to SONY tv
Optical connect from player to AVR
Analog connect from player to AVR

Audio settings are:
HDMI = auto
SPDIF =bitsteam

I had been changing the SPDIF setting to PCM when playing TrueD through the A1.

Actually, I don't see a reason to change the SPDIF setting to PCM with TrueHD soundtracks. Leave it on bitstream, and the A2 will transcode the TrueHD bitstream to a DTS @ 1.5mbps via SPDIF to your reciever. You'll get fairly high quality, minimally lossy compressed 5.1 sound that way! :)

Consequently -- I disagree that it flatly cannot support TrueHD, though to be sure, it can't support more than two channels.

Since the purpose of TrueHD - is by definition LOSSLESS 5.1
or 7.1 - I think DROPPING 4 or 6 channels does not qualify
as proper use of TrueHD - with 2 Channel Optical.

EVEN ANCIENT DD over Optical is way better.

Since the purpose of TrueHD - is by definition LOSSLESS 5.1
or 7.1 - I think DROPPING 4 or 6 channels does not qualify
as proper use of TrueHD - with 2 Channel Optical.

EVEN ANCIENT DD over Optical is way better.

You say that, but it doesn't change the fact that the HD DVD spec calls for 2.0 True-HD, not 5.1. So perhaps your definition of "proper use" is less universal than you realize.

"EVEN ANCIENT DD over Optical is way better."

This statement only reflects a deep loyalty to surround sound. Many actually are more concerned with sound quality than surround. I personally take LD LPCM over DVD DD5.1 pretty much any day of the week, not to say that DD5.1 can't be good. (By the way, most don't consider DD to be at all ancient :).)

most don't consider DD to be at all ancient :).)

By the ever changing standards every 6 months that
we are living with today in the new High-Def World.

Any standard that is 10 years old seems ancient.

SOMEDAY - who knows when - these new standards
will settle down and start to age. But for now they
keep changing too fast for Manufacturers, Studios
and Consumers to keep up with.

Since the purpose of TrueHD - is by definition LOSSLESS 5.1
or 7.1 - I think DROPPING 4 or 6 channels does not qualify
as proper use of TrueHD - with 2 Channel Optical.

EVEN ANCIENT DD over Optical is way better.

You are technically incorrect. TrueHD is a lossless compression/encoding scheme--it is number of channels agnostic. It can carry two, six, and up to eight channels in it's current implementation: (#18 in http://www.dolby.com/assets/pdf/tech_library/TrueHD_FAQ_10925_Final.pdf)

Technically, a player can be designed to output the TrueHD bitstream via SPDIF (up to the maximum bandwidth of the transport medium) just like regular DD and DTS. This TrueHD bitstream can then be decoded on a TrueHD-capable processor/receiver. Of course, since there is zero/nada/ziltch copy protection on SPDIF, the movie studios have forbidden this altogether. That's part of the reason why they designed HDMI to carry both audio and video. It's all about copy protection being foisted onto cosumers. Things are a lot easier technically without all of this protection. But that's a whole other thread.

As to ancient DD (384 or 448 kbps) over optical being better--I think we are way better off with a TrueHD track transcoded to DTS 1.5 Mbps via optical for people without HDMI or multi-channel analog bypass on their processors/receivers.

So in essence, if you have an existing processor/receiver that supports DTS and doesn't have HDMI or 5.1 analog bypass, the best sound quality you can get from HD DVD is TrueHD transcoded to DTS via SPDIF. Unless of course, the TrueHD soundtrack is merely two channel (music video or future hi-def DVD-A/SACD replacement?), in which case, you can set SPDIF to PCM for the best sound quality.

HDMI from player to SONY tv
Optical connect from player to AVR
Analog connect from player to AVR

Audio settings are:
HDMI = auto
SPDIF =bitsteam

I had been changing the SPDIF setting to PCM when playing TrueD through the A1.
I take it your AVR doesn't have HDMI?
You settings are correct if so. Leave them that way. When you are watching HDDVD w/TrueHD your best option is the analog. SD DVD would be optical bitstream.
I think others have answered your dilemma very well.
Rocket has explained it very well.

I take it your AVR doesn't have HDMI?
You settings are correct if so. Leave them that way. When you are watching HDDVD w/TrueHD your best option is the analog. SD DVD would be optical bitstream.
I think others have answered your dilemma very well.
Rocket has explained it very well.


Correct, my avr does not have HDMI.
I watched the Matrix last night, and just switched to analog without changing the player's settings once I chose TrueD. The sound is excellent.

Thanks to All!

OK, well theres a lot of info in this thread so I just want to get some facts straight here. So I have an old Onkyo 575x (its still awesome) and I bought a HD-A1 using the 5.1 analogs and from reading all the things in here I changed the audio settings to everything Large, Sub set to use at 120hz all at 0ft, 0db. I did calibration with the S&V disc thought everything was fine except the bass but I thought that just normal with the analogs. It wasn't until I got The Matrix set a week ago that I noticed certain bass hits weren't there (most notably Trinity's slow mo jump in Ch 1). So just out of curiosity I switched to the optical and there was bass all over the place. After a bit of reading here again I found out that some receivers don't apply BM or +10 sub boost (which mine does not do) to their analog signals and that you should let the Tosh use its own BM with everything set to small and what not. I did this and "eureka"! I am now getting the bass that was once missing with all the other channels firing just a powerfully.

So here my question? I read in this thread that when you let the Tosh do BM that you're not getting true LFE? Is this a fact or just something that happens with certain player/AVR set ups? Just to let you guys know I did do a test again with the S&V disc and its identical to the optical including the sub read out. Any answers will be greatly appreciated, thanks!

With BM engaged, the LFE drops -5db and the redirected bass is dropped -15db so they both end up a total of -15db. This is straight from the Dolby spec. Thus, you should boost the sub channel somewhere along the line by +15db.

Recent testing suggests the XA2 behaves exactly in this manner when BM is engaged for all 5 channels i.e. all designated Small. However, if only BM for the center/rears is engaged, the redirected bass is only dropped by -10db and the LFE is dropped by only -1db (to a total of -11db). This is not per the Dolby spec and there is uncertainty as to whether the bass is being redirected correctly with this setting.

I don't believe the A1 was ever tested this thoroughly, but it's reasonable to suspect it might behave similarly.

Therefore, I'd say the safest would be to either engage BM for all 5 channels and boost the sub channel by +15db or leave BM off and boost the sub by +10db.

Some AVR's boost the sub input automatically by +10db , some do not(as mentioned above) so this needs to be taken into account.

With BM engaged, the LFE drops -5db and the redirected bass is dropped -15db so they both end up a total of -15db. This is straight from the Dolby spec. Thus, you should boost the sub channel somewhere along the line by +15db.

Recent testing suggests the XA2 behaves exactly in this manner when BM is engaged for all 5 channels i.e. all designated Small. However, if only BM for the center/rears is engaged, the redirected bass is only dropped by -10db and the LFE is dropped by only -1db (to a total of -11db). This is not per the Dolby spec and there is uncertainty as to whether the bass is being redirected correctly with this setting.

I don't believe the A1 was ever tested this thoroughly, but it's reasonable to suspect it might behave similarly.

Therefore, I'd say the safest would be to either engage BM for all 5 channels and boost the sub channel by +15db or leave BM off and boost the sub by +10db.

Some AVR's boost the sub input automatically by +10db , some do not(as mentioned above) so this needs to be taken into account.

That's clear as mud...

Sorry, is there something specific I can clarify?

I just received a new subwoofer and I had to re-do all of my HD-A1 settings, are these correct?

5.1 speakers:

I set all of the distance settings. The left and right speakers are set to "Large". The center is also set to "Large". The left and right surround are set to "Small". The subwoofer is set to "Use". All of the Mhz are set to -12 except the subwoofer which is set to 0. The A/V receiver can only be set from 0 to -20 on the subwoofer so it's set to 0. I set the volume to +12 on the receiver to adjust for the settings on the HD-A1 speaker setup. Does this sound right? The receiver is a Yamaha HTR-5930 if that makes any difference.

Thanks in advance!

I just received a new subwoofer and I had to re-do all of my HD-A1 settings, are these correct?

5.1 speakers:

I set all of the distance settings. The left and right speakers are set to "Large". The center is also set to "Large". The left and right surround are set to "Small". The subwoofer is set to "Use". All of the Mhz are set to -12 except the subwoofer which is set to 0. The A/V receiver can only be set from 0 to -20 on the subwoofer so it's set to 0. I set the volume to +12 on the receiver to adjust for the settings on the HD-A1 speaker setup. Does this sound right? The receiver is a Yamaha HTR-5930 if that makes any difference.

Thanks in advance!

Assuming the A1 behaves with the Dolby spec, you'd need a total 15db boost to the subwoofer channel somewhere along the line with BM engaged.

The problem with doing all or most of this by trimming the levels in the player is you lose too much S/N ratio. Try setting the levels in the player at around -7db (other than sub at zero) then increase the gain at the sub itself to +8db.
You would then need to decrease the gain on the sub channel for other digital inputs on the receiver by -8db to compensate for the increased gain on the sub.
Most AVR's will save separate gain settings for digital /analog.

Thanks cpcat! I did notice that their was less information coming out of the surround speakers when I did this so I changed everything back to 0 db on the player and just increased the sub level at the sub itself. I know that it may cause the sub level to be to high when listening over optical, but we'll see. I'm not sure what S/N ratio is but I assume it's the level of the surrounds? I'll try your suggestion next.

Edit: I made the changes you suggested and now hopefully have it working the way I want. The only difference between optical and multi-channel is that the volume reference point is 5db higher for multi-channel. I'll be glad when they start releasing players that output the new HD audio via bitstream and then we'll only have to worry about the a/v player settings and not the HD or BD player settings. Also, we'll only have to connect with one cable (HDMI).

. I'm not sure what S/N ratio is but I assume it's the level of the surrounds? ).

If you cut the trims down on the main channels by too much in the player, this effectively lowers the total voltage output. The lower the voltage, the more susceptible to noise the signal is. What then happens is you end up having to operate much higher on the AVR's volume control to obtain the same volume. This raises the noise floor i.e. makes the background "hiss" much more audible.

The way you have it now should be fine. Remember you may have to decrease the sub channel gain in the AVR for digital inputs by the same amount you increased the gain control on the sub.

Today, the wife and I watched the upconverted SD version of Mel Gibson's Apocalypto. I smiled as I opened up the audio setup option and found it to offer 5.1 DTS. Of course I selected it and smiled again when my A1 displayed "DTS Surroundsound".

I'm running HDMI from my A1 to Denon 987.

A little confused. :confused:

I also have an A1 with 5.1 analogs out and a receiver w 7.1 analog in.

Should I use a splitter for the surround / surround backs?

Or should leave the surround back not connected via analog connections and set my receiver to PLIIX?

Thanks, James

A little confused. :confused:

I also have an A1 with 5.1 analogs out and a receiver w 7.1 analog in.

Should I use a splitter for the surround / surround backs?

Or should leave the surround back not connected via analog connections and set my receiver to PLIIX?

Thanks, James

A lot of receivers will NOT DO ANY PROCESSING of analog
Inputs. You should check that with your owners manual.

If your receiver does not process analog - I would use a
splitter. Otherwise use the receiver - if it will process.

Hey guys I have one simple question. Should my settings on my receiver match the settings in the speaker set-up within the player? Settings such as speaker size and distance?

Hey guys I have one simple question. Should my settings on my receiver match the settings in the speaker set-up within the player? Settings such as speaker size and distance?

All those SPEAKER settings ONLY apply if you
are using Analog out INSTEAD of HDMI.

All those SPEAKER settings ONLY apply if you
are using Analog out INSTEAD of HDMI.


I am using the analog out, that's why I'm wondering:).

I am using the analog out, that's why I'm wondering:).

When using Analog out - those settings are what
you need to configure.

I ONLY USE HDMI. WAY BETTER - if you can use HDMI.

When using Analog out - those settings are what
you need to configure.

I ONLY USE HDMI. WAY BETTER - if you can use HDMI.

I wish I could use HDMI but my receiver does not have HDMI inputs, so I use the next best thing. Thanks for your help drhankz!

I wish I could use HDMI but my receiver does not have HDMI inputs, so I use the next best thing. Thanks for your help drhankz!

At some point you will wonder WHY you did not
upgrade to a new receiver sooner.

There are hundreds to choose from now.

Hello:

Last time I update HD-A1 from the disk I download it but crash so this time Ilike to update from interent but I have few questions anyone help this time.
-First I set DHCP and DNS "on" and can get IP address than press "Confirm" than "OK"
-IN Proxey Setting, I have no idae how to set "Sever" "Port, User. Password..
-Should I set " NTP Server Setting and User information setting and Mac Address.
I don't damage this one so anyone can help it.

Thanks.

JK

^^^ most often just leave the Proxy stuff blank (not use).
Be sure to set the date/time (use the number pad beneath the remote control slide cover to enter the time values).
NTP is nice but likely not required.

---------------------------------------------------

This thread is back! After being buried deep.
Mods: thread title needs to be made more generic:

"Answers to HD DVD standalone players Audio Questions"

and then made a sticky. Please!

I have my A1 connected to a 7.1 speaker system via HDMI, as well as an Onkyo 605.
Whenever I watch HD DVD movies only the 2 fronts, the Center, the Woofer, and the 2 surround speakers work; the 2 back speakers do not (They only work on broadcast TV).

Is this normal? Is this happening because the player cannot output 7.1, and is set to only 5.1?
Or is there some adjustment that I could make?

Or is there some adjustment that I could make?Use the lossy 1.5 Mbps dts SPDIF connection -- sorry. You apparently need one of the higher end Onkyo models (705 up?) since that is a model 605 issue with not having DD PLIIx able to be applied to multichannel LPCM audio input via HDMI. :(

I can buy a Toshiba XA1 for € 140,00 from someonw here in Holland. I have some questions about it:

With the firmware updates (or maybe out of the box):

- Will it pass TrueHD and DTS-MA over bitstream?
- Does it do 24p?
- Does it ouput full 1080p?

no, no and no. I do not believe that a firmware update could add any of those features either.

I can buy a Toshiba XA1 for € 140,00 from someonw here in Holland. I have some questions about it:

With the firmware updates (or maybe out of the box):

- Will it pass TrueHD and DTS-MA over bitstream?
- Does it do 24p?
- Does it ouput full 1080p?

no, no and no. I do not believe that a firmware update could add any of those features either.

I would say "Yes" to bitstream via HDMI for both TrueHD and DTS-MA since it's data right off the HD DVD disc to the HDMI port; and use your Receiver to decode. A1/XA1 can decode TrueHD to HDMI or 5.1 Analog Out. The A1/XA1 can not decode DTS-MA because the lack of decoder chip/hardware but will decode as regular DTS.

As for 24p and 1080p output, no. But if your HDTV can correctly assemble the 1080i to 1080p you will see zero difference with a 1080p player.

...Angelo

I can buy a Toshiba XA1 for € 140,00 from someonw here in Holland. I have some questions about it:

With the firmware updates (or maybe out of the box):

- Will it pass TrueHD and DTS-MA over bitstream?
- Does it do 24p?
- Does it ouput full 1080p?

No it will NOT transmit TrueHD. Not sure if we have DTS-MA support. It will DECODE on the unit TRUEHD and then send the decoded (still lossless) audio via PCM over your HDMI connection only. Your receiver only needs to have HDMI PCM 5.1 Dolby Support. I think only the latest versions of HD DVD players support bitstream output TRUE HD and then you would need a receiver with TRUE HD decoding like the higher Onkyo or Denon recievers.

It does not support 24p or 1080p only the newer HD DVD Player models do.

It is HDMI version 1.2 I think. or 1.1 only.

I'm hearing some noise, almost like a popping sound coming from my subwoofer during movies now that I've hooked my HD-A1 up via HDMI. It's sending PCM to my NAD T785, and the HD-A1 is the only device that I get the popping on. Anyone had a similar situation?

Looks like this will resurrect a year-old thread!

I recently bought a Harman Kardon AVR-254. After hooking everything up, the only component that isn't working flawlessly is the HD-A1. I cannot get the 254 to recognize an audio signal through HDMI.

I tried setting the A1 to both "Auto" and "PCM", but there's still no sound. What's odd, is that if I go the the A1's setup menu and play test tones, I do hear the tones through my speakers (although it uses the SL along with SR for SR).

Does anyone have experience with this receiver and the HD-A1? I've searched all of the relevant threads, but no one seems to have reported this issue.

Looks like this will resurrect a year-old thread!

I recently bought a Harman Kardon AVR-254. After hooking everything up, the only component that isn't working flawlessly is the HD-A1. I cannot get the 254 to recognize an audio signal through HDMI.

I tried setting the A1 to both "Auto" and "PCM", but there's still no sound. What's odd, is that if I go the the A1's setup menu and play test tones, I do hear the tones through my speakers (although it uses the SL along with SR for SR).

Does anyone have experience with this receiver and the HD-A1? I've searched all of the relevant threads, but no one seems to have reported this issue.

It could be a hand shake issue. Try downloading the latest firmware for the A1. If I recall, V3 resolved the issue of requiring the monitor to be set to the the corrisponding input channel before turning the A1 on. Otherwise you would receive an error message.

It could be a hand shake issue. Try downloading the latest firmware for the A1. If I recall, V3 resolved the issue of requiring the monitor to be set to the the corrisponding input channel before turning the A1 on. Otherwise you would receive an error message.Thanks for the reply! I changed HDMI cables and also set the player to output bitstream; now it seems to work...for the most part. I'm not sure it is outputting the newer codecs to my H/K.

I guess my question now is whether or not it will send TrueHD and/or DTSHD-MA?

Thanks for the reply! I changed HDMI cables and also set the player to output bitstream; now it seems to work...for the most part. I'm not sure it is outputting the newer codecs to my H/K.

I guess my question now is whether or not it will send TrueHD and/or DTSHD-MA?

Not digitally. You can send TrueHD through the 5.1 analog outs.

Not digitally. You can send TrueHD through the 5.1 analog outs.Shouldn't I be able to get this through HDMI?

Only bitstream and downsized PCM come through my AVR...not PCM.

If the only way I can get TrueHD is through analog, I guess I'll have to run all those freakin' cables again...:eek:

Shouldn't I be able to get this through HDMI?

Only bitstream and downsized PCM come through my AVR...not PCM.

If the only way I can get TrueHD is through analog, I guess I'll have to run all those freakin' cables again...:eek:

Unless I missed something in the latest firmware upgrade, that's right. Keep in mind the A1 was one of the HDDVD models first out of the gate.

Unless I missed something in the latest firmware upgrade, that's right. Keep in mind the A1 was one of the HDDVD models first out of the gate.Well...that blows. What about the A35? I'm sure I could pick that up somewhere on the cheap...

Well...that blows. What about the A35? I'm sure I could pick that up somewhere on the cheap...

The A35 does both TrueHD and DTS master via hdmi

Unless I missed something in the latest firmware upgrade, that's right. Keep in mind the A1 was one of the HDDVD models first out of the gate.

According to the owner's manual (firmware 2.1) enabled TrueHD via HDMI up to 5.1 channel PCM.

http://www.tacp.toshiba.com/tacpassets-images/models/HD-A1/docs/HD-A1_om_e.pdf

According to the owner's manual (firmware 2.1) enabled TrueHD via HDMI up to 5.1 channel PCM.

http://www.tacp.toshiba.com/tacpassets-images/models/HD-A1/docs/HD-A1_om_e.pdfThat's what I thought...yet I can't get any sound when I pass PCM to my receiver. I only get sound when bitstream or downmixed PCM is chosen...

That's what I thought...yet I can't get any sound when I pass PCM to my receiver. I only get sound when bitstream or downmixed PCM is chosen...

I don't use my A1 too much anymore but I checked out my player yesterday to make sure it worked with my new Denon 2309. The A1 has the 4.0 firmware installed. I use a 6 foot (Monoprice) 1.3a HDMI cable from player to receiver. I have the A1 set to Digital out HDMI and it works fine set either to 'Auto' or 'PCM' output. The receiver front panel displays 'MultiChannel PCM' and the small boxes that indicate 5.1 input and output are lit. I tested with the HD-DVD version of 'Batman Begins' and selected the TrueHD soundtrack from the language menu. There really isn't anything else you can do with the A1 other than set the basic outputs. Try swapping out your HDMI cable if you still can't get 5.1 channel PCM.

You can also try posting to the HK254 forum:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1043407

Are you sure of your firmware version? I didn't see a comment you had checked it and you shouldn't assume your new player has the latest or even up to 2.1. Go to Setup/General/Maintenance/Update. You should see a small row of numbers. Mine shows 4.0/1.0A/2.0U. The 4.0 here refers to the latest 4.0 firmware. What does yours show?

Are you sure of your firmware version? I didn't see a comment you had checked it and you shouldn't assume your new player has the latest or even up to 2.1. Go to Setup/General/Maintenance/Update. You should see a small row of numbers. Mine shows 4.0/1.0A/2.0U. The 4.0 here refers to the latest 4.0 firmware. What does yours show?I finally got it to output PCM...by choosing "Auto" on the audio output. Choosing "PCM" still resulted in no sound. Regardless, I suppose it's working now. All I need to do now is insure that my AVR is actually outputting the right codec.

Thanks for everybody's help.

According to the owner's manual (firmware 2.1) enabled TrueHD via HDMI up to 5.1 channel PCM.

http://www.tacp.toshiba.com/tacpassets-images/models/HD-A1/docs/HD-A1_om_e.pdf

OK, I've gone into my player's menu -- it shows both the "NEW SETTING" items reflected in your PDF file. Also, I can click on "NETWORK SPEED" and it shows the full range of options reflected in the PDF file that you linked above -- does this mean that my player has the 2.1 upgrade/update? -- would that be your understanding? I bought this player used, so it is concievable it was updated, but just trying to make sure I am making the same sense out of the PDF file, as what was intended to be shown.
Thanks

OK, I've gone into my player's menu -- it shows both the "NEW SETTING" items reflected in your PDF file. Also, I can click on "NETWORK SPEED" and it shows the full range of options reflected in the PDF file that you linked above -- does this mean that my player has the 2.1 upgrade/update? -- would that be your understanding? I bought this player used, so it is concievable it was updated, but just trying to make sure I am making the same sense out of the PDF file, as what was intended to be shown.
Thanks

If you're not sure of your firmware version do this. Go to Setup/General/Maintenance/Update. You should see a small row of numbers. Mine shows 4.0/1.0A/2.0U. The 4.0 here refers to the latest 4.0 firmware. What does yours show? That will be your unit's firmware version. BTW 2.1 was waaay back in terms of real time i.e. one of the early firmware updates.

If you're not sure of your firmware version do this. Go to Setup/General/Maintenance/Update. You should see a small row of numbers. Mine shows 4.0/1.0A/2.0U. The 4.0 here refers to the latest 4.0 firmware. What does yours show? That will be your unit's firmware version. BTW 2.1 was waaay back in terms of real time i.e. one of the early firmware updates.
Thank you, Sir -- very helpful. I am starting to catch up to speed on this. My current version is 2.0, but called Toshiba today for the 4.0 update CD. Your assist is much appreciated!

Looks like this will resurrect a year-old thread!

I recently bought a Harman Kardon AVR-254. After hooking everything up, the only component that isn't working flawlessly is the HD-A1. I cannot get the 254 to recognize an audio signal through HDMI.

I tried setting the A1 to both "Auto" and "PCM", but there's still no sound. What's odd, is that if I go the the A1's setup menu and play test tones, I do hear the tones through my speakers (although it uses the SL along with SR for SR).

Does anyone have experience with this receiver and the HD-A1? I've searched all of the relevant threads, but no one seems to have reported this issue.


You are not alone in this situation. I am having the same frustations but with the HD-XA1 and my AVR-254. For some unknown reasons the only sound I get from HDMI is when I select "bitstream" in the player and/or downconverted PCM. (it comes out as PCM 2/0 48KHz) I have the latest firmware in the HD DVD. I have changed cables, inputs, etc. The funny thing is that regular DVD will play with the correct sound source, be that DD or DTS with no problems at all.

I had the same problem with my Integra and my VP50 Pro scaler. I isolated the problem being the scaler not being able to pass audio through hdmi - once I took it out of the path - I was able to get audio. Probably not the same problem - but similar. This was later identified as a known problem of the DVDO VP50 scaler

One more thing I can check is the AVR firmware version and update if necessary. I will have to do it later since I am at work.

I recently pulled out my HD-A1 to hook up to my HK-AVR254. I purchased a bunch of HD-DVD combo discs for pretty cheap (cheaper than DVD) so I wanted to get my HD-DVD player going again. Unfortunately my 254 is also having the same multi-channel HDMI problem. I'm anxious to find a solution to this problem.

-- jaydillyo