i don't understand why it went from 599- 699! usually sale prices go down. Maybe they realized they were selling them for way too cheap! or they wanted to make some extra coin geting rid of the last few.

Yeah, that's true ClayPigeon but I couldn't wait for them to go back down because in my area they are dissapearing fast! I used a coupon and got mine for a little over six bills. I'm now a proud owner of a XBR960 AND a XBR970!! BOOYAH!!

Yeah, that's true ClayPigeon but I couldn't wait for them to go back down because in my area they are dissapearing fast! I used a coupon and got mine for a little over six bills. I'm now a proud owner of a XBR960 AND a XBR970!! BOOYAH!!

could I have your 960? :)

Well i noticed something during my tweaking yesterday. Anybody else have having curved lines on the left and right side middle that don't seem to get fixed no matter what you try? after messing with all differnet VBOW LBOW settings i couldnt get rid of the curve! and if i would on one side it would still be bad on the other or mess up soemthing else. It seems that when lowering VSCO to like 0, 1,2, straightens out the lines pretty close to being perfect! then when raising VSIZ to fill the screen the lines dont get bent like they normally would! Now doing this would probably cause lineraity issues! but thats easily fixable compensating with say ULVN/LVLN. And even then the linearity wasnt even that off! I'm gonna mess around more later on and see iof there might be a similar setting instead of using VSCO. cause it might just be stretching the screen when setting it low and then rasing it with VSIZ. Maybe ASPT would be better.

I am a fellow DIYer, and here is what I found. VCEN, VLIN, and especially SLIN must not be cranked to any extreme level from what it was originaly set. VCEN and VLIN will not get rid of your bowing on the extreme corners of the set. It will give the appearence of less bowing, but then you will quite possibly see more distortions in the middle of the screen that will really drive you mad. If you do adjust these two, do it very sparringly and WRITE DOWN the value before you change it so you can turn it back when you see that it screws with the picture alot. I have had two 970s so far and each time I found that Sony has adjusted SLIN to the best value. I'm not sure what adjustment I can do to make horizontal linearity better yet, but I know that adjusting SLIN even one digit from it's factory setting will make your problems worse in either direction. For the horizontal bowing, I'm sure a calibrator will have to remove the back cover and place magnets on the yoke to tweak that out because in my experience a regular service tech will not even offer to do so and say that it's in tollerance. Horizontal bowing CANNOT be adjusted out in the service modes, it even says so in the manual.

Just alittle info for those adjusting overscan. HPOS, HSIZ, VPOS, VSIZ, are all global and should be adjusted first to shrink every inputs overall image. MID1 effects scanning in the different picture modes. MID2 adjusts scanning for each input type and resolution. Notice that I said input type. Meaning if you adjust component 4, you will also effect component 5 just the same. Only use the MID adjustments period to expand the image. If you try to just use the MID adjustments to fix overscan, you may find that a white cloud will appear on your black picture if you shrink the image too much verticaly. I know because I've done and seen it. Overall, you need to try to find a happy medium using all the adjustments. Video games usually suffer from underscan because the consoles don't have nearly as big of a picture as DVD players do. This is the reason why I have my DVD player on the HDMI input, so I can use MID2 to adjust it separately from the component inputs which have game systems hooked to them.

In any case, write down every setting for every input and resolution just incase you mess up anything or discover other visual defects.

Cool info man! just one problem! i can't seem to find a happy medium between VCEN and VPIN. I seemt o get a red convergence error on the bottom left line when tinkering with it and i can't seem to get the convergence straight by finding a right mix of VPIN and VCEN. Do you think this is more due to magnets on the tubes set? I notice when messing with VCEN tho the red almost vanishes, but then that creates more bowing. What do you have VCEN and VPIN set to on your set?

here are my settings right now for those values, i also changed soem things up.

VLIN- 6 (default)
SLIN- 4 (default)
VCEN- 13
VPIN- 18

thats what i have those last two set at now but like i said i'm having trouble finding a happy medium. tried placeing a piece of paper/ straight edge along the lines to get them straight but there is always a bow.

The set has dynamic convergence adjustments (the D-CONV submenu in the service menu) which will correct horizontal convergence errors on pretty much any part of the screen. Note, it will only correct horizontal convergence problems, which means you see red and blue to the left and right of a vertical white line. Unfortunately, vertical convergence problems can only be adjusted manually and physically with magnets.

Yea i tweaked my D-CONV settings to get a pretty perfect picture. i use the avia colorfilters and tape them together long ways then put them on a crosshatch pattern and then line them up to all meet. The red line is going across the horizontal line tho and i notice it everytime soemthing is white. Top kinda has a blue one too. I'm thinking maybe moving the raster away from that area can fix it but i been told don't mess with the settings "DHHS, MDHS" and other settings like that for some reason that i still never got an answer for!

Here is a VERY crude sketch of what i'm dealing with.

Seems like the bowing is causing the red misconverged line, only thing is i can't get it straightened out!

Heh. picasso, huh?

The reason people say "don't mess with the MID- menu size settings" is because the MID chip has to do with image scaling. And you can degrade the quality of your image when you change image size with the MID scaler. Essentially, let's say you've got a 1080i image that you use the 2170D1 and 2170D2 to resize it, and you've got 3% overscan. You can say you've got 1016 of your 1080 scan lines actually hitting the screen, because 32 of your scan lines are hitting somewhere off the top of the viewable image and 32 are hitting somewhere off the bottom. If you change the size of the viewable image with the settings on the MID chip to 0% overscan, you're essentially compressing the 1080-line digital image to fit within the 1016 lines that are actually hitting the screen. It will degrade the picture somewhat when you're compressing 1080 lines of data into only 1016 actual physical electron-beam scans.

Does it make it look real bad? No, but it's noticeable under certain circumstances, especially if you have a test pattern with a lot of thin horizontal lines, and you change the vertical size with the MID settings, you'll see some of the horizontal lines appear to be "thicker" or "brighter" than others as you change the size. So the MID size settings are best left alone in order to maintain the best image fidelity.

Now on my TV, I decided that I had to live with that in order to set it up like I want it. Because I've got my TV set up with 3% overscan all around, for broadcast / cable / DVDs. Except on the xbox360 input I used the MID settings to make it 0% overscan, because overscan on video games is bad. Does it make my games look bad? No, not at all, at least not enough for me to notice it, and I'm picky. Any loss of fidelity is very slight, and I never notice any degradation of picture. In the end, what matters is how it looks to you, right?

Sweet thanks for the explanation! yea man i noticed when messing with those values like you said using a test pattern i noticed some lines became 'faint" while other stayed bright, then going over too much in one direction caused a whole lot of " OMG that don't look too sexy" problems. I have since went back to the defaults in MID. I noticed tho that in the service manuals that they are p[retty much set all the same number, so there must be some mathematics involved. When you get a chance (if it's not too much of a hassle) tho can you check what you have yours set at? I have all the values written down, but i'm worried i still screwed up a few since they seemed to be different on other inputs and just want to double check and make sure i have everything tight.

This is what i have for 1080i componet FULL
DHPH-108
DVPH- 40
DHAR-240
DVAR- 135
DHPW-55
DVPW-5
DYCD-1
DYSD-4

MDHP-0
MDVP-0
MDHS-240
MDVS-135
DHHP-38
DHHS- 177
DHVP-21
DHVS- 70
DHVL- 4

Thanks again for the help G-bull.

..or anybody else on here for that matter. If your searching through the service menu and in 1080i through componet just double check those numbers for me and write them down if you can. I'm pretty sure i have them all right, just want to double check so i don't have the " i think something is not set right" floating around in my head.

yea tho G-bull thats another thing i noticed, especially when in xbox 360 dashboard the overscan is pretty bad. I know this cause i have checked images of other peoples dashboards on google and they have MAD room on both sides. I have barely any of the left blade visible !

The only MID settings that I was sure to leave at "stock" are those which affect vertical size. I didn't see any problem changing those that affect horizontal size, or anything that changes the position without changing the size (either vertical postion or horizontal position) so I did change those.

In fact, I did something a little bit different with the horizontal size settings in MID so I could make my 4:3 pillar bars narrower, without affecting the aspect ratio. So technically, my 4:3 is a little bit wider than 4:3 because I have 3% overscan on the top and bottom, but only 1% overscan on the left and right sides. It was pretty complex. Here's instructions (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=9575104&&#post9575104) on how I did that if you want to see it...

here i took a pic of my dashboard. See what i mean? This is why i really want to tweak those MID settings! Sorry about the pic quality! my digital camera is crappy, but you can see what i mean.

Cool thanks for the link! I'll read up on that in a bit.

Now look at this pic i found on google of this guys!

http://files.hainsworth.com/blog/xbox_dashboard.jpg

Let me add something to my previous post: I left the MID vertical size settings at "stock" for just broadcast, cable, and DVDs. For my xbox, like I was saying before, I shrunk it down entirely with MID so it all fits with 0% overscan (well, maybe not quite 0%, but as close as I could get it, maybe 0.25% overscan or so - I figured it better to be one notch "over" rather than one notch "under" if that makes sense).

Yea i know what your saying. So i'm thinking my only way to get overscan under like 5 % is to change some of those mid settings. If i just reduce HSIZ and disable the blanking shutters i get a white line going down the right side at 4% overscan even with the picture centered. So i'm guessing the raster is over too far on the right? thats why i see that bright white line. My television picture probably wasn't centered correctly cause i CAN center it to fit the whole screen using the MIDS and have the whole picture inside and not too far over that i see the white line noise on the side. So all in all would you say they didn't center my picture right at the factory?

Cool thanks for the link! I'll read up on that in a bit.
I was just looking at that post and I noticed that I didn't actually mention the fact that I adjusted my left and right sides with a different amount of overscan than my top and bottom. In fact, in the instructions I talk about making a mathematically perfect 4:3 window (which mine isn't) and that the overscan on the sides should match the top and bottom (which mine doesn't) but if you know what you're trying to do you should be able to follow those instructions and make your overscan however you want it.

By the way, here's a basic general overview of how I adjusted my overscan:

Use 2170D1 and 2170D2 (and 2170D3 shutters) with a 1080i full screen pattern to give yourself the desired amount of overscan. Once you have that right, you can slide around the images for the other inputs with the MID position settings so they're all centered, and assuming that your MID size settings are still at the factory defaults they'll all come in with the same amount of overscan as what you set up for 1080i. The 4:3 window overscan is different, and that can then be adjusted like I outlined in that post that I referenced before, which is actually a rather tedious process... Then, if you've got another input that you want to adjust separately (such as making your xbox run with 0% overscan) you'll have to use the MID size settings to adjust it.

Ok cool ! yea tho like i said i have the basis since i alreayd messed with those settings but was worried they shouldnt be messed with. But like you said when messing with them i'll throw up a crosshatch pattern and pat close attention to any of the lines changing brightness so i know not to be at that point. But what i did when setting those when i first got the set was change the others also for 720p, just the mid 2 settings tho like the MDHP to center all the other modes. I also have problems with top overscan as well tho so i will have to adjust for those also. I just can't wait to get all this done and be done with the service menu for a while hopefully! Changing for all these modes is annoying me like crazy! my old Tv there was just one thing that needed to be changed for everything a "one size fits all iputs"

Yea i know what your saying. So i'm thinking my only way to get overscan under like 5 % is to change some of those mid settings. If i just reduce HSIZ and disable the blanking shutters i get a white line going down the right side at 4% overscan even with the picture centered. So i'm guessing the raster is over too far on the right? thats why i see that bright white line. My television picture probably wasn't centered correctly cause i CAN center it to fit the whole screen using the MIDS and have the whole picture inside and not too far over that i see the white line noise on the side. So all in all would you say they didn't center my picture right at the factory?
I don't understand what you mean exactly. I can't picture what you're saying about the white line.

Try reducing the size of your image waaaay down with the 2170D size settings so the edge of your image is a good 2 or 3 inches from the side of the tube. Like the whole thing is under-scanned by a good couple inches. If you turn off your blanking shutters you should see a full 1080i image with no cropping or anything - it will be smaller, and in the middle of the screen. Then turn on your blanking shutters and set them right where you're going to want your overscan, at 3% or whatever you want. Then increase and position the image with 2170D-1 and 2170D-2 so it just fills the screen.

Oh i mean it gets wayy brighter! like the screen is over the size of the raster? i think its called raster? you know how like you can move the picture so it's like there is a background black image behind it? but then go too far over and thats when the pic starts dissapeaing into the nether regions of the screen? well on the right side instead of dissapearing like it does on the left it just gets a brighter and brighter line as it goes over.

Oh i mean it gets wayy brighter! like the screen is over the size of the raster? i think its called raster? you know how like you can move the picture so it's like there is a background black image behind it? but then go too far over and thats when the pic starts dissapeaing into the nether regions of the screen? well on the right side instead of dissapearing like it does on the left it just gets a brighter and brighter line as it goes over.
It sounds like you need to turn on the 2170D-3 blanking shutter on that side of the screen. What's happening is the electron beam is actually reflecting off the inside of the side of the tube, and reflecting back onto the screen because it's so far over. That's what the blanking shutters are there to prevent - they "cover up" the electron beam when it gets to the side so it doesn't reflect off the inside of the tube.

But thats weird i don't get that on the left no? Thats why i'm thinking the picture on my set wasn't correctly centered! cause when i mess with the MIDS i can get everything in there and see no noise or any reflections off the sides. That pisses me off tho man, i got 3% overscan on my old crap box sony wega 27 inch SDTV, but with this i'm stuck with 4.5% overscan.

I'm not gonna fuss over it tonight tho. I need to catch up on some double dragon for xbox arcade. I haven't been playing or watching anything cause i just been tweaking! just want to chill tonight and have some brews and game it up. Tommorow night tho i'm gonna tweak like crazy.

Hey, this is my first post, but I've been mooching off of this thread for the past couple of days as I debated buying the 970. Just went to Circuit City here in L.A. yesterday and bought it (as they had sold out in 2 local stores in the past 3 days). Still don't have the TV yet because I don't have a vehicle mammoth enough to transport the beast, but it's mine.

Anyway, on to the meat of the post. Circuit City's website has discontinued the XBR970 at its online store. So, for those of you yet to hop on the bandwagon for the last hurrah of the CRT, i guess this is just about your last opportunity. You can't check to see if it's in stock online anymore, so it's scavenger hunt time!

I can't wait until I get this thing in the next couple of days (though i still have to save up for sources that will actually push this thing, haha!)

Hey, this is my first post, but I've been mooching off of this thread for the past couple of days as I debated buying the 970. Just went to Circuit City here in L.A. yesterday and bought it (as they had sold out in 2 local stores in the past 3 days). Still don't have the TV yet because I don't have a vehicle mammoth enough to transport the beast, but it's mine.

Anyway, on to the meat of the post. Circuit City's website has discontinued the XBR970 at its online store. So, for those of you yet to hop on the bandwagon for the last hurrah of the CRT, i guess this is just about your last opportunity. You can't check to see if it's in stock online anymore, so it's scavenger hunt time!

I can't wait until I get this thing in the next couple of days (though i still have to save up for sources that will actually push this thing, haha!)

Did you not get delivery? The best $50 I spent..

Ok G-bull. after doing a test run just to see what i was dealing with, it seems the main MID adjustment i need to tweak is in MID1 "MDHS" seems like this one enables the " full" picture to be placed inside the viewing area. i haven't noticed any effects when just adjusting it from one extreme to the other using a overscan pattern, but i'm not sure when using a black background with white crosshatch lines. Did you also adjust this parameter? or you can't recall for sure?

Now i'm not a math wiz or anything but something has to be with these setting shareing the same value as eachother. Like the setting i'm messing with

MDHS=240

shares the same number as DHAR =240

I'm thinking once MDHS is changed then "DHAR" should be changed to the same value? Just a guess tho! and it seems DHAR is like a blanking effect, so that makes sense, if increasing MDHS, that would in turn cause more blanking to be needed from DHAR. Just a guess tho, who knows.

same with,

MDVS/ DVAR= 135

i bet thats all it is is they both have to be changed to the same value once one is changed. Unless it's just a coincedence they are the same.

Sadly, the 970 has now disappeared from Circuit City online - at least for my zip code. If you do manage to find one at a brick and mortar CC you could also use a 10% off coupon from AAA. I got one at $540 with the AAA discount.

RIP

I used the same deal for mine (slickdeals, right?) Got mine for $567 after tax with free delivery.

I have yet to make any setting changes to it though. I dont even know where to begin, but my overscan is horrible when connected to my laptop at any resolution. Where should I search here for info on how to get into the service menu?

Keep in mind that all MID1 adjustments are global. You will effect all picture modes except for normal and widezoom. On my 970, I was successfully able to shrink the image horizontaly, but you have to shrink the image verticaly as well to maintain correct geometry. That is where I ran into problems. I got that white cloud on my black screen that I was talking about earlier. I used VSIZ to shrink all inputs and then used MID2 to enlarge all the other sources that were effected by the global shrink. I still got far from 0% overscan because VSIZ limited how far the TV could scan period. This was ok with me since my other TV had way more overscan than this one, and 5% overscan is not that big of a deal on movies. However, on video games overscan sucks. Like I said earlier though, video games don't produce nearly as big of a screen and often suffer from alittle underscan that can easily be adjusted out. If you are getting extreme amounts of overscan on everything including game consoles, shrink the image down using HSIZ and VSIZ first to prevent from making huge adjustments in the MID adjustments that will cause problems.

Holy crap CP, I decided to take a brake for a few days, but you obviously didn't, you're back to talking about stuff I haven't even touched yet. Its like you said a few days ago. The bowing problem isn't even always noticable, and the VCEN stuff is global ... so thats kinda of a hard one to decide to tweak.

Anyway an update on what I have done since my last post. I talked about enabling "show standard HDTV resolutions only" option the forcware settings, to see if it would fix the large difference in cropping between the PC and everything else. Well the good news is it did. The bad news is, perhaps only because of the staticnes of a PC desktop, it makes the bowing appear way worse. If the start bar is at the bottom, you can see it bend. If you stare at the right side of the desktop, you can see a ( with black to the right. However like I said before I am using this to play video and I haven't decided yet whether or not this is bothersome enough during video playback that I should try tweaking it.

But, CP you were looking for a test pattern, well hey I mean a bent windows start bar and a ( on the right side of screen sounds pretty good. If I can straighten both of those out I think I can be pretty sure I did a pretty good job, you might even want to try it I dunno.

Beyond that I'm wondering if anybody has experience testing PC display on this tv through various graphics cards and outputs. I mean you have these new cards that actually ahve HDMI out, there are ATI cards with DVI which I haven't tried, and of course you can get both ati and nvidia based cards with component out. Because component video was never conceived as PC display device I actually wonder if it might work best on this tv as far as being consistant with how the other component devices look.

Ok something else here, I realise I'm a day or two behind here, but it was being talked about how if you use the mid settings to reduce overscane to fit the entire image onto the picture then you aren't using the entire 1080 lines. I have to say .. how does that make any sense? What good are lines that aren't in the viewable area doing you anyway?

By the same token, as i've been doing all the this tweaking, it does seem as a result despite not having any of the picture chopped off, the 1080i broadcast stuff may not look quite as good, so you may have a point.

I suppose you have to choose which you are irritated by less, but that doesn't change the fact that there was WAY too much overscan from the factory. At this point I'm still most irritatated with the computer bowing situation than anything else.

Ok again just catching up, in light of the post by vega78 on the last page, should I learn to live with tbe bowing? CP looks like you're still trying? I still don't get why its worse on some inputs than others if thats the case.

Ok ok. Glad to see you fixed some things turbo, but also messed up others which sucks. The problem i was having was fitting the whole picture inside. I would reduce VSIZ and my picture was just cropped off! even after disabling the R/L-blanking. I tweaked the MID settings again and had to tweak some of the vertcial ones as well. I didn't wnat to mess with my HPOS, VPOS, HCNT settings too much since everything was already centered. So i made the centering adjustments for each resolution using the MIDs.

NOW what i really need to do is get a HDMI cable box so i can tweak that to my likings! cause getting overscan perfect on xbox360 introduces noise on cable TV since they are both using componet. I haven't even TOUCHED any settings for 480i cause i don't plan on using it.I tweaked 480p tho in full/normal mode. Like G-bull said i don't mind too much if i'm sacrificing alittle picture quality by changing those mid settings. I want as much picture as possible. Plus it's not even noticeable anyways. I will go back another time and check the linearity and what have you to fine tune, but as i just checked real fast nothing seems to be off. The real test will be when credits roll on a movie. I don't use any of the other modes so i have no use in tweaking them. I just use "FULL" and "NORMAL" for all viewing.

But as of right now these are MY best settings, feel free to just use these turbo so you don't have to go through the hell that i did. Then again these may not apply to your set.

*For componet/xbox360 1080i FULL*
VPOS-26
VSIZ-26
VCEN-17
VPIN-21
NSCO-15
HTPZ-19
SCRL-35
HCNT-35
HPOS-29
HSIZ-34
MPIN-7
PIN-17
UCP-34
LCP-30
PPHA-21
VANG-27
LANG-29
VBOW-28
LBOW-35
LBLK-45
RBLK-30
TBLK-7
BBLK-2

DHPH- changed from 108 to 133
DVPH-40 ( default)
DHAR-240 ( default)
DVAR- 135( default)
DHPW- 55 ( default)

MDHS- changed from 240- 230
MDVS- 135 (default)

DHHP-changed from 38 to 35
DHHS- changed from 177 to 179

DHVP- changed from 21 to 24
DHVS- changed from 70 to69
DHVL- 4 (default)


*720p componet /xbox360 full*
Just change these few settings to,
DHHP- 49
DHHS-119
DHVP-29
DHVS-93

*480p componet/xbox360 full*
Again just these few
HPOS-26
HCNT-35
SCRL-32
MDVS-120
DHHP-60
DHHS-179
DHVP-24
DHVS-60
DHVL-4
LBLK-47
RBLK-33
TBLK-3
BBLK-11
also change the geometry settings like UCP/LCP and others to match 1080i.


*480p componet/ xbox360 NORMAL*
Change these to,
SCRL-30
MDHP-31
MDHS-166
DHHP-66
DHHS-172
DHVP-32
DHVS-60
DHVL-0

Also turbo im not sure how thise set would look hooking up a PC to it. I'm guessing really bad tho lol. My PC only has s-vid out so it would look like crap! although i'm sure i could get a DVI to HDMI adapter and use that but i don't plan on hooking it up to the TV. I have media center and just stream it to my xbox 360.

Where should I search here for info on how to get into the service menu?


Don't bother. You're better off just starting from page 1. The search function on this website SUCKS. To get into service menu hit on the remote:

DISPLAY
5
volume UP
Power

Kinda fast but not crazy. Like your putting in a videogame code.

But really read up before you start playing with anything in there.

Wow, can't wait to read this whole thread. I like mine, but haven't touched any of the settings since initial setup. I'm going to post whore as I'm trying to keep a private message conversation going, and this board needs me to post 5 times. Sorry.

Did I mention I'm a new member?

Why did the monkey fall out of the tree?



Cause he was dead.

I'm actually looking to make some high def movies, and going to get a new Mac Pro workstation, and maybe the BM Intensity card, and hook up my XBR970 to help with color correction, etc, in high def editing, so I'll be back to this conversation. Sorry to threadjack...

Anybody else on here have scientific atlanta HD cable box? they suck so bad! Sony used to provide set top boxes for my cable company, but the cable guy said they were expensive for them to buy and sony didn't maintain them. So he told me the SA boxes are sooo much better. I don't think so at all tho, granted they are smaller, but it takes FOREVER to change channels! especially when it switches signals from 1080i/720p 480p But i think thats the XBR970's fault. But man! when switching to channels you get stuck on like hbo on demand and have to wait for it to load to even be able to change channels or anything! these ones take YEARS to load up any info and have the UGLIEST graphics and menus i have ever seen!

*end rant*

So yea i think i'm done with tweaking xbr970 overscan and geometry! So far so good but we shall see!

Did you not get delivery? The best $50 I spent..

Well, local Circuit City WON'T deliver the xbr970 in L.A. apparently. It's really lame, but my friend's coming over with his Ford Explorer with the seats down right now. Hopefully it'll fit in there, hopefully......

Hey guys, I just moved this thing in and set it up. I hooked up my PS2 via my lovely component cables and I get audio, but no video. Any suggestions? (PS2 works with composite, not component, tried both on their respective input channels)

I think you have to go into the PS2 main menu and change the video settings to component. Not sure tho!

Just had green and blue switched, silly me. I'm awesome, and I need something that can show me how pretty this TV can be. Best I can do right now is Gran Turismo 4. At least it looks better than FFXII...

Hey guys, I just moved this thing in and set it up. I hooked up my PS2 via my lovely component cables and I get audio, but no video. Any suggestions? (PS2 works with composite, not component, tried both on their respective input channels)


Did you happen to measure the box? I'm picking mine up tomorrow.

Here you go wrwine

Length:44 inches
Width: 29 inches
depth: 31 1/2 inches

Give a little more space tho just to be safe.

Here you go wrwine

Length:44 inches
Width: 29 inches
depth: 31 1/2 inches

Give a little more space tho just to be safe.


Great! The height of the opening in my folks Jeep is just over 33 inches.

Must resist the urge to tweak the picture. Must resist the urge to tweak the picture. Must resist the urge to tweak the picture.

Must resist the urge to tweak the picture. Must resist the urge to tweak the picture. Must resist the urge to tweak the picture.


Why? MANY of us do it here... what's wrong with tweaking the picture?

Nice! well like i said tho give yourself a little more space for each of my measurements cause my box was folded up from the delivery guys so i may be an half an inch or so off on some.

someone please go buy all of these left at the Austin, TX Fry's for $512 before I force myself to buy one for the bedroom ;)

Every time I switch modes for a game (going from standard def to progressive or 1080i), I get these very pronounced squiggles across the screen (normally in the middle, but they tend to move around). They are very noticeable, and I can't help but wonder if it's my component cables that suck, or I'm doing something wrong. Normally the squiggles go away after about 3 minutes, but sometimes they creep back in. ANNOYING!

Do they look like thsi cali? I bene getting these since day 1 IF i turn on my Tv while it's still on the componet input my xbox 360 is plugged into.

Do they look like thsi cali? I bene getting these since day 1 IF i turn on my Tv while it's still on the componet input my xbox 360 is plugged into.
Wow THAT'S not normal.

LOL! yea i didn't know what to make of it! happened when i first got it too! But i didn't notice util turning the Tv on while it was on video 4! It goes away tho once i switch videos then everything is fine!

I'm gonna switch inputs with my HDbox and 360 andsee if it still happens. If it does i know it's the componet input and not from my xbox360.

Hmm. So i switched the xbox with my STB and now it's not doing it anymore :confused: Maybe a connection was bad! It's kinda hard to to get the componet cables in all the way with the cables plugged in right next to the other ones! can't get a grip on them! Plus the fact they make componet cables so damn tight you could swing the TV from them once they plugged in! I'm always worried i'm gonna break the inputs trying to push them in all the way.

I think I've decided to step back again and relax and try not to freak out anymore. Yes I see some bowing on the bottom of the screen sometimes, but its not all the time so I don't think its worth messing with a global setting. Yes the top left corner isn't perfect, there doesn't seem to be any setting to just straighten that out without messing up anything else (soebody can certainly correct be there I suppose).

I believe the bowing problem is on the computer is completely related to the computer. Remeber I said before how it had way to much MDVS with the standard settings ... then I enabled the "show only standard hdtv resolutions" ... fixed the MDVS, caused the bowing, hence its the computer. You'd have thunk this type of problem would only happen on a vga cable on a CRT monitor, but I guess not. Anyway hence why its the computer/drivers, not the TV. Since I am pertty much happy with the settings everywhere else now, I think I'm going to continue trying to pursue this angle.

Unless somebody wants to step and just say ATIs drivers are way better for this, I think I'm going to try the awesome resulution tweaking program powerstrip --- it has all sorts of internal geometry tweaks and if you search "powerstrip 720p" on google on this site you'll find some old threads on this site talking about good 720p settings on a 1080i tv, that I'm hoping will help.

Anyways wow CP it certainly looks like you put a lot of work into all that stuff, I still don't even know what half of those settings are. However, it will certainly be fun to try them out at some point.

I have no clue what you are trying to do or want to do with your xbr970 turbo! Did you buy it just for use as a PC monitor or what?

If you are having the same problems as me then the settings i posted will fix 93% of your problems.

Do they look like thsi cali? I bene getting these since day 1 IF i turn on my Tv while it's still on the componet input my xbox 360 is plugged into.


Actually, it's not nearly as bad as that, but they seem to have gone away, (good for me). Just little bits of fuzz every now and then. Too bad I won't get actual HDTV for probably another year (when cable is free from the university, I refuse to pay for an entirely different cable service). I'll get HD from my 360 or PS3, whichever one I get at some point during the summer. :-P

Actually, it's not nearly as bad as that, but they seem to have gone away, (good for me). Just little bits of fuzz every now and then. Too bad I won't get actual HDTV for probably another year (when cable is free from the university, I refuse to pay for an entirely different cable service). I'll get HD from my 360 or PS3, whichever one I get at some point during the summer. :-P

$6/month for HD? Then why not just buy a SD-TV? I understand where your coming from, but $6/month? If you can afford this TV, on sale or not, really, what's a few bucks a month?

Or why not a HD antenna?


And HD-cable isn't going "public" until February 2009.

For anyone out there still thinking about getting one of these, CC seems to have taken it off their website. Might be able to get one in store still. I picked mine up earlier this week from an online purchase when it was at it's lowest price. I know I'll be happy with it after some adjustments. Some small geometry issues that I'll either tweak or live with, but the overscan is pretty massive. I'm waiting for my DVE disc to come from blockbuster online before messing with any of it. Also, I bought that Stormark stand from Ikea. It was obviously made with this television as it's model. Shape, size, and weight limitations are all just about perfect. And it's only $60.

http://www.ikea.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?topcategoryId=17071&catalogId=10103&storeId=12&productId=42127&langId=-1&chosenPartNumber=20074716

MjC

$6/month for HD? Then why not just buy a SD-TV? I understand where your coming from, but $6/month? If you can afford this TV, on sale or not, really, what's a few bucks a month?

Or why not a HD antenna?


And HD-cable isn't going "public" until February 2009.

Well, actually, I'd have to get a completely different cable service (the University cable service is its own thing, ane the only upgrade allowed is the upgrade for Showtime and HBO). Actually, I don't think I can even have different cable installed, I guess that's what I get for living in a University owned apartment. I guess I'll just pick up an HD antenna, that would be the only option until at least the next fall ('08).

Quick question. Does the 970 have the anti-glare coating on the screen?

Also, I bought that Stormark stand from Ikea. It was obviously made with this television as it's model. Shape, size, and weight limitations are all just about perfect. And it's only $60.



MjC
If you have any pics of your Sony on that stand, I would like to see them. That's a really good price for a stand.....if it fits.

Hi, on May 8 I got my 970 delivered, very happy with the picture. I was told a power conditioner will improve the picture some. Eventually I plan on having a nice surround sound system hooked up to it, Pioneer Elite receiver, Blue Ray player and nice 7.1 speakers system. Is it worth it to buy a power conditioner for it now? If you think it is worth it, can you also recommend one or two please.

Hi, on May 8 I got my 970 delivered, very happy with the picture. I was told a power conditioner will improve the picture some. Eventually I plan on having a nice surround sound system hooked up to it, Pioneer Elite receiver, Blue Ray player and nice 7.1 speakers system. Is it worth it to buy a power conditioner for it now? If you think it is worth it, can you also recommend one or two please.


I plan on buying one, for $100, with 5200 joule rating and 11 outlets, for $100 from Belkin. For the price, I cannot pass it up. They retail for $200+


The ONLY device that will improve the picture, is a Flea or Flea HDMI. Don't fall for all that other stuff.


http://www.algolith.com/index.php?id=flea-hdmi&L=0

They sell for $799, and if you're serious about cleaning up your image, it's worth every cent. I am buying one..

I also have a belkin pure Av power conditioner/ surge protector.

damn tho wisconsin that flea thing is more then the TV!

This is the one i have and it doesn't do a damn thing :)

http://catalog.belkin.com/IWCatProductPage.process?Product_Id=250818#


• Eliminates popping, hissing, static and snow

LOL lies! lies i tell you!

I also have a belkin pure Av power conditioner/ surge protector.

damn tho wisconsin that flea thing is more then the TV!

But if you have some serious mosiquto, picture noise etc. It is a MUST have.


I couldn't see spending more than the TV is worth, for some device, but with a 30-day unconditional money back guarantee, and many people rave about it, it's worth a shot.

I have pretty bad artifacts, mosquito, and noise in my image, a few HD channels, and even more SD channels. This will clean it up..

Hi, I'm a newB...but I just wanted to say I just got the 970 days ago and I already love it. I had a rear-projection Toshiba for more than 4 years which was great, but was so old it didn't even have an hdmi input. There were minor issues with my 42" Toshiba. Some dvd's didn't look great, others did. But worse of all, it got a burn-in effect from (of all things) using the PoP too much. I had been so careful not to achieve burn-in from sidebars or letter boxes, I didn't even realize you could get it from utilizing the PoP too much.

Anyway, after doing some MAJOR tweaking, I believe I finally have my settings right on the new Sony and MAN does the HD look great. I was watching Nascar for about 15 minutes last night...and I NEVER watch Nascar. Some of the HD channels that looked so-so on my Toshiba (like Universal HD or TNT) now look amazing. Basketball games looks so much better also. Even my standard channels look way better. When I watch Countdown on MSNBC, Keith Olbermann looks almost as sharp as HD. Finally, my dvd's look better all around...even my older ones...the only problem is I absolutely HAD to take the color temp from "warm" to "neutral" in movie settings. Warm didn't look good at all.

I do however have a major problem. When watching non-HD stations, the right sidebar is way larger than the left. And there's also a little green discoloration on the right side too. But I've got the Sears tech coming to look at that on Monday...wish me luck on that.

Anyway, sorry for the long post...but I saw this Official thread on the 970 and had to chime in! :)

LOL i found myself watching programs i don't normally watch as well! everything looks good in HD. As for the sidebar problem i had the same problems but was able to fix it in the service menu. Give your set some time to break in and when you feel comfortable enough and after reading some info you can get into the service menu and correct those errors. Also tho keep in mind alot of program material depends on the station, so while having a problem on one, it may be absent on another station.

Oh wait nevermind! see you have a tech coming. Hopefully he can fix the problems!

Do CRT's have a "burn-in" issue? I haven't heard of them having this issue..

I should call up and have a tech come also just for the hell of it. Maybe he can fix some of my horizontal convergence issues.

Do CRT's have a "burn-in" issue? I haven't heard of them having this issue..

I'm pretty sure they do, phosphor burn- in although not as bad as older CRT's. I have some green discolarations on the sides of my set, but not bad and i'm willing to bet it's from my speakers. They are shielded tho but i had issues with them on my other TV as well. I have them pretty far away from the set but i'm sure they are still causing it.

Oh wait nevermind! see you have a tech coming. Hopefully he can fix the problems!
I sure hope he can fix it. I'm very glad I don't have noticeable geometric distortions. I used to have a Sony Wega 36" tv and it would bow dramatically in two different places. It would be weird to see a crawl at the bottom of the screen(on CNN or MSNBC) as it would move straight....then dip...straight again...then bigger dip...then straight.

I have the bowing on the top. The left corner bows down slightly. It's annoying cause i know where it is, lol so i'm always looking at it.

LOL right as i posted that i was trying to fix it in the service menu. Got it better but not perfect. I'm able to really notice it right now cause i have dead mans chest on in the background on starzHD and they are showing it in letterbox. So i'm trying to forget about using any test patterns and trying to get it as unnoticeable as possible while watching, and not going by what a static test pattern tells me.

(deleted)

Just in case anyone is interested in this TV and hasn't purchased one yet, Rainbow Appliance is selling them on Ebay right now for $535. Shipping is $135 for most places in the U.S., but if you're in NYC, Westchester, LI, Rockland or Northern NJ you can get local shipping for $50.


Here's the link in case anyone is interested. (just insert ebay then .com if you don't know any better)

http://cgi.*********/Sony-34-FD-Trinitron-WEGA-XBR-HDTV-KD34XBR970-NIB_W0QQitemZ300112218647QQihZ020QQcategoryZ61396QQssPageNam eZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

Does anyone know how to adjust the green convergence? At the picture tube? I've got the service manual and can adjust the red/blue, from the service menus, but not the green. The red/blue is fine, but the green is pretty far off.

What you mean? you have the back of the Tv off the set? All convergence for vertical is done in the service menu, horizontal only with magnets on the back of the set i thought? When i adjusted my conv green was pretty much the reference and was right on the white line. You should adjust the red and blue to match. If you have the avia color filters use them for that! it's soooo much easier. PS hook a brother up with the service manual! :D

Unless you trying with the circle magnets on the back of the set? let me know whats up.

What you mean? you have the back of the Tv off the set? All convergence for vertical is done in the service menu, horizontal only with magnets on the back of the set i thought? When i adjusted my conv green was pretty much the reference and was right on the white line. You should adjust the red and blue to match. If you have the avia color filters use them for that! it's soooo much easier. PS hook a brother up with the service manual! :D


The green is off, the red/blue can't be adjusted to match it in the service menus. I can adjust the red/blue to meet each other, but that isn't where the green is, so unless there's something to adjust the green and not the red/blue, it can't be done in the SM. The green isn't on the white line. I got the manual on ebay for $12.

Hmm not sure then. I just use the other service manuals from differnet model sonys ( such as the xbr960) that are posted on here and piece them together to find out what does what, since some parameters are labeled different. They are more like guidelines. Anyuways, back to the subject at hand! I wish i could help but i have no clue about that green convergence problem. Like i said all i did was use the D-CONV convergence settings and tweaked them to perfection. Nothing was as way off as you are describing, and everything lined up with an adjustment here, adjustment there. Out of the box tho the sides were WAYY wacked on my set! but i got them pretty damn near perfect with just a few tweaks. I'm sure somebody with more experience on this subject will post and help you out. Good luck with the tweaks! Also did you just pick this set up? or have you had it for a while?

On a side note i decided to go back to around 3.5- 4 % overscan on all sides. I wasn't missing much and plus when first turning my set on before it warmed up i would see the raster edges on the sides at 2%. It went away after warming up, but it was annoying as hell when trying to watch something when the set was first on. Also changed up some more geometry settings. TOLD you i was done tweaking with geometry. :D

Well, I've got some good news and bad news since the tech's visit. The bad news is the tech said the little green-thingy is something that shows up because of my large speakers (or possibly my subwoofer). Sadly, in my apartment I have nowhere else to put them.

But...the good news is he fixed my sidebar issues. I know it was an easy fix for him but it's nice to see everything even.

Even better news is I decided to ask him if the overall picture seemed just slightly green in tone or if it was just me. He said he absolutely noticed (especially when viewing a static picture) that it was, indeed...and he could adjust it (I think he was adjusting the grey scale...I dunno, you guys are better at this than I).

Thank goodness for that! I mean the HD quality on this thing is great...and the green tone was VERY subtle...but it was nagging me. Now it's like it's supposed to be. Skin tones look real! I don't know why but I was hesitant to ask him about that. But I'm glad he fixed it.

PQ is awesome now. :) I guess I'll deal with that little green-thingy.

Well, I've got some good news and bad news since the tech's visit. The bad news is the tech said the little green-thingy is something that shows up because of my large speakers (or possibly my subwoofer). Sadly, in my apartment I have nowhere else to put them.

I hear that. I'm getting some discolorations from my speakers as well and i don't have any room to slide them out any further away from the set. I am NOT disconnecting my speakers tho! I'm willing to live with the slight green for sound quality.

Glad to hear the tech thing went well! I should give one a call! did it take hours of talking to a rep to finally get one to come out? did they go through the million questions first like " did you try returning the set, did you try unplugging it and making sure it wasn't under any water" BS that they usually do before finally agreeing to send a tech out? or was it no problems and they had one come out right away?

also i doubt a tech would adjust the greyscale and have any of that equipment with him! did he have any tools? he probably adjusted the GYR and GYB in the service menu for the color green. I had to do the same on my set.

I hear that. I'm getting some discolorations from my speakers as well and i don't have any room to slide them out any further away from the set. I am NOT disconnecting my speakers tho! I'm willing to live with the slight green for sound quality.

Glad to hear the tech thing went well! I should give one a call! did it take hours of talking to a rep to finally get one to come out? did they go through the million questions first like " did you try returning the set, did you try unplugging it and making sure it wasn't under any water" BS that they usually do before finally agreeing to send a tech out? or was it no problems and they had one come out right away?
He did bring some equipment but no...he adjusted it through the service menu. He's a Sears tech and never asked me any of those questions. No hassles, really. Funny thing is last night I got a call and it was a recorded message from Sears telling me to expect the tech between the hourse of 8 am and 5 pm (well, duh). He didn't really come out until around 3:30pm...but at least he called me an hour before. And it didn't take long at all for him to adjust everything.

Ohh they sent somebody out from the store you bought it from? i thought it was a sony service tech that you had to call the sony hotline to get.

Ohh they sent somebody out from the store you bought it from? i thought it was a sony service tech that you had to call the sony hotline to get.
Yeah, although I don't think he came from the Sears from my town. He must've come from Daytona Beach or Orlando. No...I paid for the warranty, so I definitely needed to call them.

Well in that case i'm sure he did a lot more to fix the problem than any sony service tech would do. A sony tech would probably just sit down, put on his favorite episode of "bonanza" and say the TV looks fine and no problems are noticeable when watching. Then 9 pm would come around and i would have to wake him up and kick him out.

Hey guys I got dve hd dvd and I am at a complete loss as to how to properly use it. Is there like a complete newb guide out there or something? I have played around in the service menus before and used some settings that others have posted and have gotten a better picture but that was pre dve hd dvd. Has anyone used this to calibrate their 970's? If so what are your settings? Thanks alot guys.

Also did you just pick this set up? or have you had it for a while?

This one Ive had for a few days. I had another one for a few days that had serious geometry issues, the right side was fine, but the left side had severe bowing, nothing that could be fixed in the SM. I had them bring another one. This one has almost perfect geometry, but almost everything has a green line at the edge of it. Both TVs have a green tint to them, I can't believe there aren't more people here who see that. Beautiful picture besides that.

Wow man so it's pretty much either get a bad one, or get a good one LOL.

You swear tho? you haven't moved the other set anywhere else/ same spot as the other? Thats messed up then! Some LOL wait ,MOST are lemons then. Either get a good one or a bad. i got stuck with a TERRIBLE one LOL.

If you have any pics of your Sony on that stand, I would like to see them. That's a really good price for a stand.....if it fits.


Here you go. Bad picture, bad camera. But it clearly fits. And the legs are all really thick, despite being particle board (or whatever you call it).

http://img527.imageshack.us/img527/4184/sonytvonstandbn6.th.jpg (http://img527.imageshack.us/my.php?image=sonytvonstandbn6.jpg)

MjC

this is my first 16x9 tv

so far, every anamorphic dvd i played has black bars

are there any widescreen dvd's that will fill the whole screen or is it just dumb luck that i'm picking extra wide movies so far?

so far with HD movies off my cable box, some movies fill the screen and some have black bars on the top and bottom and i understand that some movies are shot wider than others but what about anamorphic widescreen dvd's ?

this is my first 16x9 tv

so far, every anamorphic dvd i played has black bars

are there any widescreen dvd's that will fill the whole screen or is it just dumb luck that i'm picking extra wide movies so far?

so far with HD movies off my cable box, some movies fill the screen and some have black bars on the top and bottom and i understand that some movies are shot wider than others but what about anamorphic widescreen dvd's ?Check the movies, your TV is 1.78:1 many movies are 1.85, 2.35, 2.40. Anamorphic gives higher resolution than letterbox format. DVDs are NTSC 480i (4x3), an anamorphic 16:9 image is squeezed to fit and un-squeezed when displayed. This gives the full 480 lines of resolution. The non-anamorphic, leterbox DVDs, 16:9 only have 360 lines.

Just found a deal on a 955 for a pretty good deal (won't save me much, but it's actually cheaper than what I bought the 970 at). Is it worth all the effort to get the refund from Circuit City so I can go get the used 955 and save a little cash and have the much better TV? As you guys know I just bought the 970 last week and have had it set up for about 5 days. Happy with it, and finally watched my first DVD on it--Shrek looked pretty darn good I must say.

The 955 is used (seller claims barely), so that's where I have a slight concern. Advise me guys, please. (also, I had already destroyed the box for the 970, so I don't know if I can even get a refund).

Is the difference between the new xbr970 and the used 34xs955 at the same price pretty much the difference between a new Corvette and a one year old used Ferarri? I'm gonna need to jump on this quick if I should, so please let me know.

I'm just concerned whether or not it's worth doing 3 flights of stairs twice all over again. Still concerned that they won't accept it if I don't have the box though....

caliwillbemine - call CC to see if they'll give you a full refund. I'm guessing they have a 15% "restocking fee" if you return it without the box, but you'll have to call them to find out.

You'll have to decide for yourself if the super-fine-pitch tube is important enough to you to buy the XS955. Me, I'd keep the XBR970, simply for the peace of mind that I'd have from buying a brand new TV with a full manufacturer's warranty. There's no "I hope the previous owner didn't drop it" or "I hope the previous owner didn't clean the screen with harsh chemicals" or "I hope the previous owner didn't lie to me about 'barely' using it for two years."

But if you feel like you need the super-fine-pitch tube, and you're willing to buy one used, then maybe you should buy it. If it's really that important to you, and you don't buy it, you'll end up thinking about "the one that got away" every time you turn on your 970.

In all honesty, I think that I'm just getting a little paranoid over this whole thing, and it would just end up being more of a hassle than I want to deal with. I've already moved a 970 up 3 flights of stairs, and I have to move it down thos same stairs at the end of the Summer.

I know that the picture would be better on the 955, but I think I'm going to be plenty happy with the 970. I guess posting just helped me realize that the 970 is good enough for me, since I didn't have anything all that great in the first place!!

The 970 is fine. Don't let the SFP koolaid drinkers tell you otherwise. Enjoy your set.

caliwillbeyours, ;)

If you want the quick and dirty difference from my perspective, the Sony SFP CRT will be noticeably sharper with all native HD signals than the XBR970 (but not significantly so). However it will also be noticeably darker as well. The sharpness difference that I've noticed is only with native HD signals.

With SD DVDs, I've noticed that non-SFP Sony CRTs almost always do a better job than the SFP Sony CRTs. It's hard to explain that one, but when I was comparing the two tube types in the past, at many different stores in no less than 4 states, that's what became clearly obvious to me.

If the money had been there, I would have liked to have purchased one of each tube type. That being said, if I had to choose between the two, brightness plays a very big part in the intensity of color displayed on the screen - so I would choose the 970, which is what I did and now, I'm the proud owner of one.


nx211

Also, I'm still having the squiggle issues with my component cables on the PS2 (noticeable but tolerable when not progressive, makes games basically unplayable when progressive). The lines aren't there all the time, which really confuses me. I think I'm going to see if I can still get that extended warranty from Circuit City.

I got the cables like last year for about 10 bucks on Ebay, so they probably aren't that good. I'm wondering if you guys think it's a connection issue or a problem with my TV.

Also, I'm still having the squiggle issues with my component cables on the PS2 (noticeable but tolerable when not progressive, makes games basically unplayable when progressive). The lines aren't there all the time, which really confuses me. I think I'm going to see if I can still get that extended warranty from Circuit City.

I got the cables like last year for about 10 bucks on Ebay, so they probably aren't that good. I'm wondering if you guys think it's a connection issue or a problem with my TV.

You get a standard 2 year warranty from Sony, which is one reason why I went with the Sony. You're going to pay $120, for a one year extended warranty?

I'd rather save those bucks for a new TV, and take my chances.

OMG, I'm waching a SD broadcast (BOS-NYY game) on my old Panasonic 27" set for the 1st time since September so that the wife and kiddies can watch American Idol on my XBR970.

All I can say is "I am spoiled". I love my XBR970. Can't wait for 9PM so I can get my set back!

Check the movies, your TV is 1.78:1 many movies are 1.85, 2.35, 2.40. Anamorphic gives higher resolution than letterbox format. DVDs are NTSC 480i (4x3), an anamorphic 16:9 image is squeezed to fit and un-squeezed when displayed. This gives the full 480 lines of resolution. The non-anamorphic, leterbox DVDs, 16:9 only have 360 lines.

so there are some dvd movies that will fill the whole screen?

OMG, I'm waching a SD broadcast (BOS-NYY game) on my old Panasonic 27" set for the 1st time since September so that the wife and kiddies can watch American Idol on my XBR970.

All I can say is "I am spoiled". I love my XBR970. Can't wait for 9PM so I can get my set back!
I know, right? Watching SD broadcasts is so good with the 970.

so there are some dvd movies that will fill the whole screen?

Just a few 1.78:1 (http://www.imdb.com/Sections/DVDs/AspectRatios/1.78_:_1/)

...and about 8x that number that are 1.85:1 (http://us.imdb.com/Sections/DVDs/AspectRatios/1.85_:_1/)

1.85:1 may fill the screen or may not depending on the amount of overscan set. The TV's screen is 1.78:1, but since they are so close the overscan may just "cut off" the thin black bars of a 1.85:1 film.

The letterbox is not a bad thing. It's just the producers way of showing you entire image...the way the filmakers intended for us to see them.

The letterbox is not a bad thing. It's just the producers way of showing you entire image...the way the filmakers intended for us to see them.

as long as they are anamorphic...if not, then on a widescreen TV you get windowbox :mad: (I.e. the first copy of Top Gun released on DVD...just waiting for the HD DVD to replace it)

I don't know if this has already been discussed, I haven't got past about page 28, there are no new Sony CRT TVs coming out this year or ever. I know there were people saying they were releasing 2 new CRT TVs back in the middle of the thread. I just talked to a Sony rep who said the plants are closed and all CRT TVs they will produce have already been made. So whatever is left in the warehouses or stores is the end of the CRT line.

anyone know what "clearedge VM" and "color axis" controls do?

i know most people here keep the "clearedge VM" off and the "color axis" set to "monitor" but what they hell do they do technically?

I believe the Clearedge VM is an artificial sharpness additive and that changing the color axis to monitor will de-emphasize reds slightly and make the colors more accurate, like skin tones and such (on my 960 I have it set to Pro, Monitor, and no artifical sharpness. Looks best to my eyes.)

I don't like "monitor" at all. Too drab for me.

I believe the Clearedge VM is an artificial sharpness additive and that changing the color axis to monitor will de-emphasize reds slightly and make the colors more accurate, like skin tones and such (on my 960 I have it set to Pro, Monitor, and no artifical sharpness. Looks best to my eyes.)

i've played around with the VM thing and can't really see any difference no matter what i set it at

and i agree with the color axis thing, faces look less "redish" with it in "monitor" mode

:p

Do any of you have lives? Spouses? Maybe even a PET of some kind!

It's a TV, for crissake, not a visual orgasm machine!

No wonder we women feel like we gotta have surgery to be "perfect" - you folks aren't able to sit back and watch without trying to tweak out the minor inperfections! Thank goodness you don't get access to the genetic code!!

HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAH

Put in a movie, put down the remote, and WATCH the darn thing!!!

:D :D

:p

Do any of you have lives? Spouses? Maybe even a PET of some kind!

It's a TV, for crissake, not a visual orgasm machine!

No wonder we women feel like we gotta have surgery to be "perfect" - you folks aren't able to sit back and watch without trying to tweak out the minor inperfections! Thank goodness you don't get access to the genetic code!!

HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAH

Put in a movie, put down the remote, and WATCH the darn thing!!!

:D :D
For many of us, it's a hobby. We get pleasure from tweaking out the minor imperfections. Lighten up.

:p

Do any of you have lives? Spouses? Maybe even a PET of some kind!

It's a TV, for crissake, not a visual orgasm machine!

No wonder we women feel like we gotta have surgery to be "perfect" - you folks aren't able to sit back and watch without trying to tweak out the minor inperfections! Thank goodness you don't get access to the genetic code!!

HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAH

Put in a movie, put down the remote, and WATCH the darn thing!!!

:D :DHow much time do you spend choosing the color of lipstick, eye liner, clothes, fixing your hair.........? We all have our special interests.

So has anyone tried dve hd dvd with success?

For many of us, it's a hobby. We get pleasure from tweaking out the minor imperfections. Lighten up.

I WAS light - see the smiles? I notice your post didn't include any. Hmmmmmm.....

How much time do you spend choosing the color of lipstick, eye liner, clothes, fixing your hair.........?

None, actually, I'm a wash 'n go girl - and I look great!

....Now, back to your regularly scheduled programming....

Here you go. Bad picture, bad camera. But it clearly fits. And the legs are all really thick, despite being particle board (or whatever you call it).

http://img527.imageshack.us/img527/4184/sonytvonstandbn6.th.jpg (http://img527.imageshack.us/my.php?image=sonytvonstandbn6.jpg)

MjC
Thanks for the pic and info....

:p

Do any of you have lives? Spouses? Maybe even a PET of some kind!

It's a TV, for crissake, not a visual orgasm machine!

No wonder we women feel like we gotta have surgery to be "perfect" - you folks aren't able to sit back and watch without trying to tweak out the minor inperfections! Thank goodness you don't get access to the genetic code!!

HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAH

Put in a movie, put down the remote, and WATCH the darn thing!!!

:D :D

First off, things in the realm of mechanics, electronics and the like hold certain values to us men; values pertaining to logic and intelligence. So yes, it's no wonder we tend to give them more attention than we do to women when we are in a mood to use our minds.
When we want to use our bodies and reproductive systems in a more rudimentary way there you are for us, thank you. You've been a vessel for mans continuation and it is much appreciated.
But right now we've got work to do, so keep making babies, shut the **** up and leave us alone while we make 'Desperate Housewives' look perfect for you, K?
Buh Bye.

PS. It's iMperfections, ******. And the human genome HAS been mapped by men.. So look the **** out.

wow....

First off, ........Absolutely uncalled for. :mad:

evvythomas, you are a pig, plain and simple. I pity the women in your life. I certainly don't consider myself part of your "us men". I happen to be a REAL man. :cool:

I have reported your post to the moderator.

my post was deleted, hehehehe

:p

let's get back to talking about the sony 34" 970 XBR

i've had mine for a few weeks now and am happier than a pig in ****

wow

I just wanted to report that with the new version 1.8 "full range RGB" Sony Playstation 3 using this display, setting it to full, to me, causes crushed blacks.

I dont really see a difference when I turn the "super white" option to on. Does anyone know if that setting applies to this display?

what do you mean by "crushed blacks" ?

Loss of shadow detail. Blacks swallow everything. I had the same problem when going from my 360 to HD box. When i calibrated brightness using my 360 it was too black for normal viewing, so i had to bump UBOF to 3 to lighten everything up.

It's a TV, for crissake, not a visual orgasm machine!

I actually agree with most of your post, except for that part quoted above.

On the contrary, with some appropriate material, such as Vivid Video DVDs that have Kobe Tai's "virtual world" in the special features for example, it can in fact be exactly just such a machine as you described. :p :D ;) :cool: :eek:

I pity the women in your life.

I'll give you 10 to 1 odds that there is none. ;)

My apologies for lashing out. :(

I am going through a bitter divorce right now and having downed one or two too many 'pops', I sort of went off on women in general after having read the original post. I'm sure that you are a fine person. I just assumed that, angry at your husband or something, you had just jumped on here to call men idiots.

Once again, I apologize for my rudeness to you and all here and I'll keep my 'angry at the world' moments at bay when perusing this board. I do this on my own and have not been asked or told to do so by board mods; please believe that it is heartfelt.

I guess if it weren't for divorce, I wouldn't have been in the market for a new TV and would have missed out on this great XBR deal, right? I think it WILL be an orgasm machine for some time to come... :eek: <---'Oh face'

Evvy Thomas

You've really got to give credit to evvythomas for standing up like a man and apologizing here. :cool:

You've really got to give credit to evvythomas for standing up like a man and apologizing here. :cool:I agree. :)

This thread got embarrassing to read.

Jesus, honestly.

Talk about the TV. Take anything else to a blog or something, so boring to read.



I don't like "monitor" at all. Too drab for me.

What are your other settings at (Pro?)

Without it I found certain things a little "off" (like skin tones, etc.)

so nobody has used dve hd dvd?

This thread got embarrassing to read.

Jesus, honestly.

Talk about the TV. Take anything else to a blog or something, so boring to read.





What are your other settings at (Pro?)

Without it I found certain things a little "off" (like skin tones, etc.)
I've got my picture at 75, brightness at 73, color at 60, hue at 0, color temp at neutral, sharpness at 50, clear edge off, and color axis at default.

I know those setting seem quite high. But honestly (and maybe it's just my particular TV set) if I kept everything at mid level or lower, it looks very dark and colorless.

Guys,

My XBR970 is in my living room where it is full of light during the day and into dusk hours. So, having brightness and picutre between 75-90 isnt really "too" bright for my situation. But is it true that having the settings high can shorten the lifespan of the TV? Approxiamately how long?

Guys,
But is it true that having the settings high can shorten the lifespan of the TV? Approxiamately how long?

Yes.. excessive settings.. like "max" everything.. 70's and 80's will be fine..


I just got some really dark blue window shades for my room, and what a difference it makes. I would consider some "shade" for your windows..

First off, things in the realm of mechanics, electronics and the like hold certain values to us men; values pertaining to logic and intelligence. So yes, it's no wonder we tend to give them more attention than we do...

...

(blah blah blah)

...

PS. It's iMperfections, ******. And the human genome HAS been mapped by men.. So look the **** out.

wha--ha ha ha HA HA HA HA HA HA HA HAHA

(GAFFAW)

HAHAHAHAHA


OH! (choking, wiping tears from eyes) SORRY! hee hee hee!

:D :D :D :D

:) I've color coded my response so folks who don't want to be bothered, or are embarrassed by reading it can skip the white stuff. Green is something pertaining to your sacred TV.

Just popped back to say I bought the stand for this TV YESTERDAY on eBay - check out eBay's seller "Rainbow Appliance."

Noticed this response and just HAD to laugh! Typo's really set you OFF, eh evvythomas? He only apologized because some of you stepped up, so THANKS to those that did. My last word on the issue, and then I won't be returning (you can quote that and share your thanks to one another!)

:mad: :( :mad: :(

I didn't call men idiots, that was his interpretation of my words. Very TELLING interpretation, as a matter of fact, because I didn't refer to men at all, I used the term "you" to refer to the folks who post here, then I indicated women feel they need to be perfect for perfectionists, not necessiarily MEN. I was poking fun at your TV geeky-ness, basically due to my surprise that geekoids took TV viewing to this level. My post was FULL of smilies, so if you can't take a joke you should TAKE a WALK. And before anyone snaps off about my use of formatting and large font - it's AVAILABLE to use! If you didn't want folks using it, then take it out of the OPTIONS list!

To those of you that think I'm just some bimbo with a computer and a new TV - my IQ is 148, and I'm an Information Technology QA manager. I deal with hi-tech geeks all the time, and when they don't have a solution for something, they come to ME for answers and testing. So, I'm kinda well equipped with the skills Mr. Thomas implies are male - logic and intelligence - as I'm the one evaluating the process others use for testing and tweaking and developing and coding, and I'm failing the things they design that don't work. Folks also come to me when they need an injection of humor during a rough day, AND for personal advice on issues like FEMALE BEHAVIOR. Something with which you folks CLEARLY don't want to be bothered.

You can have fun AND get the job done. Most of the technical folks I deal with need to be reminded of that, and I'd say you all do too! Careful in this area, or who are you gonna watch that thing WITH, anyway!

Good luck to you all.

Seriously WTF is going on? This is a public message board, specifically for the Sony XBR970.


Some of you need to grow up.. and this is coming from a 20 year old. This is despicable..

Yes.. excessive settings.. like "max" everything.. 70's and 80's will be fine..


I just got some really dark blue window shades for my room, and what a difference it makes. I would consider some "shade" for your windows..


70's and 80's seem kinda high too tho. I have black out shades so i don't have to compete with any reflections from the windows, so i keep my contrast pretty low.

I've got my picture at 75, brightness at 73, color at 60, hue at 0, color temp at neutral, sharpness at 50, clear edge off, and color axis at default.

I know those setting seem quite high. But honestly (and maybe it's just my particular TV set) if I kept everything at mid level or lower, it looks very dark and colorless.

Have you calibrated with a test disc or anything? Those numbers seem way off. Especially the color setting. I know all TV's may be different but thats kinda out of the ballpark numbers. Was the set you bought a floor model or used?

........and I'm an Information Technology QA manager. I deal with hi-tech geeks all the time, and when they don't have a solution for something, they come to ME for answers and testing. So, I'm kinda well equipped with the skills Mr. Thomas implies are male - logic and intelligence - as I'm the one evaluating the process others use for testing and tweaking and developing and coding, and I'm failing the things they design that don't work........Then you should be able to understand that there are standards for displaying video and when a display device is not properly displaying that video, adjustment is needed. If making things (TVs, cars, information systems, food, clothes, etc.) perform or conform to specifications wasn't important, there would be no need for QA......... The QA specs for Sony to ship the TV to sell are much different from the actual standards set by NTSC, SMPTE and ATSC for viewing. What is wrong with a consumer wanting their TV to perform much to those standards? QA is around us all the time, it is a personal decision to pick and choose what we want right and what we say, "that's good enough for me" Some may seem overly obsessed, but who knows, it may be their main interest, hobby, escape from work or the spouse, or the fact they know it is not performing correctly and want it right. Others (consumers the manufacturers target) just stick their head in the sand and don't know any different.

Since we all know that no TV will perform, to the standards, OOTB with factory settings, as a QA Professional, what have you done to correct this situation with your TV?

This forum is predominantly male oriented, when one plays the female card, all the alpha males and those with memories of a bitter divorce suddenly respond in force, then the alpha female responds in kind and another war has begun.

I'm gonna go look for a mostly predominate female forum about "how to set the clock on a VCR" and play the "hey i'm a male" card in every post :D

Back to the TV tho. Not sure if anybody is still tweaking, or given up. But i'm done with messing with geometry any further ( well for now) My batteries are already dead in my TV remote from all the service menu tweaking and I just got this set a few weeks ago! Now i'm going to see what can be done with the MID5 settings and all those "enhancement" parameters. I have everything in MID5 set to 0 right now but want to tweak with them.

:p

Do any of you have lives? Spouses? Maybe even a PET of some kind!

It's a TV, for crissake, not a visual orgasm machine!

No wonder we women feel like we gotta have surgery to be "perfect" - you folks aren't able to sit back and watch without trying to tweak out the minor inperfections! Thank goodness you don't get access to the genetic code!!

HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAH

Put in a movie, put down the remote, and WATCH the darn thing!!!

:D :D

imagine the hours and hours women spend on hair & make-up & picking out clothes

at least the time we are spending gets some good results

does anyone worry about all those air vents on the top of the tv?

i worry about all the dust that might settle inside the tv over years and years

i think i'm going to keep mine covered when i'm not using it

you know what drives me up a wall with this set, its when i try to adjust it so its perfect and on the bottom the image distorts slightly to the left. How the hell do i fix that? does anyone have a clue. Dont get me wrong i love this tv, but somtimes i wish i had my old lcd because id never get that problem with that one.

it seems as if im trading one problem for another

Something weird i noticed tho. When i put up the "adjacent colors" pattern in kentechs service code topics, on the right side of two squares i see color bleeding through , not on every box tho! tust two, which is weird. It's like another line of color next to it. maybe it's the pattern itself? can't be a convergence issue tho cause i tweaked my convergence alot better than how the set came at default. But i noticed when changing the MID5 setting "MHLC" from 0-2 that the color bleeding goes away. What the hell is MHLC tho? I don't know if i should just keep it at 0 or if it's messing up anything else when setting it to 2. or if keeping it at 2 and everything else at 0 will have any adverse effects cause some settings may work together.

does anyone worry about all those air vents on the top of the tv?

i worry about all the dust that might settle inside the tv over years and years

i think i'm going to keep mine covered when i'm not using it

LOL i just dusted up there the other day. I didn't even know there were also vents up there! My old set had the grooves, but there were no vents so i didn't know. I wouldn't worry too much about it. What you can do tho, and this may sound stupid but it works,is you can use a dryer sheet like bounce or snuggle after it's been in the dryer and you can wipe down the set where the vents are and the anti-static effect will work and keep dust away for a while.

you know what drives me up a wall with this set, its when i try to adjust it so its perfect and on the bottom the image distorts slightly to the left. How the hell do i fix that? does anyone have a clue. Dont get me wrong i love this tv, but somtimes i wish i had my old lcd because id never get that problem with that one.

it seems as if im trading one problem for another

I wouldn't obsess over it too much, unless it's REALLY noticeable when viewing. Just keep in mind how much better you made the set than how it came set at default. What do you mean tho it distorts? is it bowing down? pointing the left? or is the whole bottom shits to the left at like a 90 degree angle? if thats the case you need to adjust "PSTP" ( courtesy of G-bull) in the service menu.Ii had the same problem and adjusting it from 136 to 140 fixed it up.

ill try that out.


holy ****, it works great! thanks so much

works like a charm. had to set it twice with 720 and 1080i but works like a charm. now i can finally set everything properly.

the one thing though when i watch a 4:3 i or p with the cable box, the image on full doest completly fill up the screen, but eh, so what....i get about a inch or so on the left and right of black bars, and the right bar seens to bow inward the image, kinda like a pregnant belly, know how to fix that too? if so, id be in heaven

thanks again so much though its amost perfect

Try messing with the HBLK settings like RBLK and LBLK. May need to be adjusted to see more of the picture.

if that doesn't open the picture up more you will have to adjust some of the MID2 settings like DHHP, DHHS to get the full picture inside.

About the bowing on the right, the best you can do is try setting VBOW. But watch out cause if you adjust it too much then the left side will bend inward. Try to find a compromise. If after adjusting both sides seem to bow in or out try adjusting MPIN and PIN. Also you may need to adjust UCP and LCP. Thats upper corner pin and lower corner pin for the extreme corners on the top right /bottom right, top left/bottom left.

thanks again man. now, do u have to change each setting for each resolution?

I don't really remember , but off the top of my head 480 has different settings for LCP, UCP, SCRL and i think HPOS. You can change these to different values from 720p and 1080i. Also some settings can be tweaked different when you have 480 in NORMAL mode. I had to adjust MDHP in mid 1 to center my 480 normal picture. Mid 2 settings are different for every resolution.

Just fix up 1080i mode first and right down what you change. Then go to the other resolutions and see if those settings changed also. If not, then you can change them to different values then what you have 1080i ste at.

whats ur list of settings, ill try those. i mean it should work we have the same tv

They may or they may not. Gimme a few minutes tho. I'll write them down for you.

thanks man, ur very helpful

i just wana get the tv as perfect as possable ya know.

Settings are different for each TV, you can't just set to another TVs settings. The geometry settings are for all inputs and modes. There's a grid in the TVs service menus that can be used for convergence and geometry settings, it's in the blue menus, the second thing when using 1-4 to scroll, I think it says pattern. Once it's been turned on with 3-6, you can go to any other menus in the SM, but when you're done, you have to go back and turn it off, with 3-6 and save, or the TV will stay on the pattern even after being turned off.

oh ok i get u now

The patterns in the TV suck tho.

Make sure you write down all settings before changing anything. You can make a mess of the TV if you're not careful and they will be the only back to where it was.

The patterns in the TV suck tho.

I had no problems using the TV patterns for goemetry and convergence, a lot better than trying to use the THX disc. The TV pattern is in HD mode, it works better than a DVD in 480p.

Ok here are my settings.

1080i- componet input

VPOS-27
VSIZ-26
VSZO-0
VLIN-6
VSCO-6
VCEN-12
VPIN-18
MVPN-0
NSCO-15
HTPZ-19
SCRL-36
HCNT-31
HPOS-32
HSIZ-36
MPIN-9
PIN-18
UCP-36
LCP-36
PPHA-21
VANG-27
LANG-28
VBOW-25
LBOW-41
LBLK-43
RBLK-30
TBLK-5
BBLK-1

MID2
DHHP-24
DHHS-186
DHVP-28
DHVL-4

I had no problems using the TV patterns for goemetry and convergence, a lot better than trying to use the THX disc. The TV pattern is in HD mode, it works better than a DVD in 480p.

I have avia so i just used that for basic geometry overscan for 480p. For the HD modes i burned some patterns off the PC onto CD for 720p 1080i and played them through the 360. I used the built in ones at first but i didn't like them.

For 720p the settings are the same as i posted EXCEPT for these:

MID2

DHHP-41
DHHS-124
DHVP-36


Now for 480p in NORMAL mode

only things different i have is

VSZO-1
SCRL-31
HPOS-42
LBLK-35
RBLK-24
TBLK-2
BBLK-8

MID1
MDHP-44

MID 2
DHHP-69
DHHS-170
DHVP-29
DHVS-60

For 480p FULL mode

MDHP-0
SCRL-32
DHHP-42
DHHS-186

Also make sure you don't have any tilt correction on in the main menu, or vertical position before doing the settings i posted. Have that all set to 0. NSCO is for tilt correction in the service menu.

Again like samijubal said every TV is different. Even which direction your TV is facing can change the geometry. So make sure you have the defaults written down first and what mode you're in and resolution.

i did that, and for the most part everything works like a charm except for this one slight problem i get when using the web browser on my ps3.


ill post images here

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/Yourbigpalal83/100_5759.jpg

sry for the low quality. its not my camera and im not use to it.

as u can see i get a slight inward bend when zoomed in onto the brower scroll bar on the ps3 web browser. other then that i never notice it, AS OF YET on anything elese, but how do i fix that?

heres another image of the same problem incase u cant make out that one

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/Yourbigpalal83/100_5757.jpg

i tried the vbow and everything, cant seem to hammer it out.

other then that, u guys helped fix the entire lower distortion and everything elese, and its so close to working absolutly perfect.

i hope i can get it like that, because i really love this tv, and it be a shame to ditch in the first chance i get for a plasma!

heres another image of the same problem incase u cant make out that one

snip photo

i tried the vbow and everything, cant seem to hammer it out.

other then that, u guys helped fix the entire lower distortion and everything elese, and its so close to working absolutly perfect.

i hope i can get it like that, because i really love this tv, and it be a shame to ditch in the first chance i get for a plasma!The photo appears to show a lean as opposed to a bow. Is that correct? Does the left side of the screen have a similar distortion? If the left side also angles inward toward the bottom, then PPHA may help. If the left side angles outward toward the bottom, (parallel to the right side lean, then VANG may help.

BTW, a crosshatch pattern is the standard signal to view for geometry alignment. It makes the alignments much easier because you can immediately see the effects (pro and con) of your adjustments.

no i also thought of tint no real improvement

I'm not familar with the Playstation web browser. Are you using component cables or HDMI for it? Did you try VANG, LANG, PPHA like raoulli said?

What does it look like when on the xbox360 dashboard? can you do me a favor and take a pic of what that looks like? I can better see what would need to be adjusted then.

try adjusting PIN until it straightens out, then your picture will be lopsided and then try messing with VANG and PPHA until it even outs.

yea i did. the ps3 is hooked up via hdmi.

heres a pic of the xbox dashboard, which looks, perfect

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/Yourbigpalal83/100_5764.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/Yourbigpalal83/100_5763.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/Yourbigpalal83/100_5762.jpg

Oh i'm not using HDMI so i'm not sure how different the settings are for that input. I'm pretty sure the settings are different for HDMI. Yea the 360 dashboard looks fine tho cept for the overscan on the left side looks over 5%.

Go into service mode when using the PS3 on so it's in HDMI mode and let me know what the MID 1 MID 2 settings are.

Not all the mid settings tho actually. And the HPOS, HSIZ, HCNT. Are those the same as when using componet inputs?

The mid settings i need to see are
DHPH
DHHP
DHHS

See what i mean about the overscan on the left side? Here is mine. I have it set to 4% on all sides.

hold on

ps3 HDMI settings

DHPS 101
DHHP 30

hold on

ps3 HDMI settings

DHPS 101
DHHP 30
DHSS 178

I believe there the same when using component, im not sure though

Yea ok. Those are the same as the componet then. Try to see what parameters are different then componet that you can change geometry wise,unless they ALL share the same geo settings which would suck :( Means i'm gonna have a hell of a time tweaking again when i get my HDMI HD box.

also i ajusted the 360 screen
heres the pic

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/Yourbigpalal83/100_5765.jpg

thats as far as i can get it over before its a black line.

Black line cause of the LBLK setting? lower it and see if the line goes away.

Will fix up the 360 first since it will be easier, then will worry about the PS3.

Dashboard is in 1080i mode also?

yep

I'll tell you exactly what to do to move the picture over once you let me know if it's the LBLK setting or not.

i tweaked it, dident do much of anythin

Ok well tweak LBLK and RBLK until they go off the screen to max. I forget if it's higher or lower with those, you know what i mean tho? so there is no blanking, better yet just turn HBLK to 0 for now so it shuts off the horizontal blanking. How did everything look with 720p? same amount of the image cut off on the left?

Ok lower HSIZ to 0 until the screen is smushed in. ( remember the setting tho) Do you have the same amount of black bars on the left and right? remember HBLK should be on 0 for this. If you don't have the same amount of black adjust HPOS until the screen is centered and it's about equal black on both sides.

ill check
same amount 720p

i gota head out,

ive ajusted everything, and i just went with lining up the image of a super widescreen movie )2:21 or somthing aspect, with the edge, and it works fine.

maby mine xbox dash board just doest go that further to the side.

right now im wishing i bought a LCD so i wouldent have this problem, lol

Nah! it's not the xbox. I had the same problem. It's definitely the TV! If you still need any help when you get back let me know!

back!

any help would be hot!

You've really got to give credit to evvythomas for standing up like a man and apologizing here. :cool:

I agree. :)

Thank you both for understanding.

Having read her latest post, it seems I was unknowingly standing up to a femi-nazi anyways.

People with a chip on their shoulder suck, man or woman. I had one on mine that night, but Im over it.

I hope noone here will hold that post against me.

Evvy

here u guys go for some updated pics. im still having a up down line problem, as u can see apparent in these pics.

when playing shadows of the collisis, or using the test patterns on a blue ray disc via the ps3 through HDMI, heres whats noticable

heres using the test patterns on the blue ray disc
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/Yourbigpalal83/Picture004.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/Yourbigpalal83/Picture003.jpg

when playing a ps2 game
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/Yourbigpalal83/Picture002.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/Yourbigpalal83/Picture001.jpg

Hmmm you sure you tried PPHA? you making sure you're saving these the settings when you change them right? cause if you don't and go into another mode or something they reset. I know you already said you have everything written down but really make sure you do so you can go back to default in case!

What are the PS2 games playing at? what res? are they playing at 4:3/16:9 mode on the TV? You tried everything i said about the rblk and lblk?

yes, i have. the ps3 upscales it now thanks to its latest update to 1080.

is there a list or somthing out there that explanes in detail everything the little letters do in the service menu?

cause, im confused as hell right now.

Yea! not for the 970 tho but you can use one for a similar model. They are basically the same meaning. JUST don't change anything to the values they have posted. Hold on let me find one in kentechs topic.

Here you go.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=531494

scroll down to the link for " servicecodelisting.zip" and d/l that.

5th link down in blue.

Also you may want to d/l some of those other things posted in there this way you get a sense of everything you're doing.

thanks. I remember and saved it before my laptop crashed, an adobie file that had everything laid out on it. do u have that document?

it wont let me adjust the left and top so i can see the tips of the arrow. It will only let me do it so far... odd


this stuffs driving me crazy. i want the dam thing perfect, ya know. Now im begining to regret having the old 23inch lcd tv exchanged for this...agghhhhhhhhhhhhh!

is there a list or somthing out there that explanes in detail everything the little letters do in the service menu?

cause, im confused as hell right now.Try this excerpt from the HS420 service manual: HS420 Geometry Information (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/attachment.php?attachmentid=36250) It provide a visual indication of how each geometry adjustment works.

ive been at this dam thing for hours, and no matter what i do, i cant seem to get it right...aggh..

any sujestions. anything?

Not all geometry issues can be fixed in the SM. If it's too far off or not symmetrical, it may need to be done at the picture tube. If so, a technician will have to do it. You may end up with it worse than it is now.

yea, im begining to think ur right, i cant adjust it no matter what. Oh well, u really dont notice it anyways.

Yea bigpalal83, don't beat yourself up over it. I circled a part of one of the pictures you posted in red where i have the same problem and no matter what i do i can't straighten it out without messing up a bunch of other things. It bows down like that, but thats the only spot it does it.

I figured i would go check some color decoding settings since my TV is broken in now. MAN tho, i'm getting different color reading depending on what i use! If i use the TV's built in color pattern or Avia but seems no setting works for both. I went with this using the built in color pattern in the TV

RYR-15
RYB-13
GYR-0
GYB-2

Then i checked with avia and i saw boxes blinking! Colors off! I got fed up and just set things back to

RYR-14
RYB-14
GYR-6
GYB-4

Now maybe somebody can help me out here. LOL what is wrong? AVIA or the TV's built in pattern? I used same settings, same res when checking, so i'm stumped.

For when checking the color bars in avia, i get blue perfect everything is the same shade of blue and no blinking. But then, with the RED bars and GREEN i can get red pretty spot on, but then with the green... if i adjust GYR and GYB i can get the hue color bars the same hue and and intensity, but the bars labeled saturation are all different shades of green and blinking. So what i'm wondering is i want to be adjusting red and green using those color bars right? and try to get the same results as i get with the blue color bars? IE. same intensity, all bars same color, minimal blinking. It seems tho if i get up some bars and just use the green or red color guns then i can get them close to the same, but when i bring the blinking boxes back they look way off. Or should i just be using the RYR-GYB bars while viewing the color decoder check pattern in avia and get everything to 0%

yea, i guess the bowing is just built into the tube. Oh well, i knew beforehand that any crt would never have 100% geometry were as any LCD would, but, i just figure, it doesnt distroy all the pros i get on this set that i would have never gotten with a LCD, like true rich blacks that arent crushed, NO BACKLIGHT LEAKAGE! no ghosting, no dead or stuck pixels, etc.

a little bow in the image, that u can only really see in a grid, aint going to kill this tv for me, consitering that the samsung LCD i had before this had all sorts of problems, so, intill i can afford a 60inch 1080P plasma i can live it with!

as for the colors, i dont get how u guys want to adjust them in the service menu. I have no intrist in doing that at all, because the colors to me seem spot on. Then again i like that slighly over saturated digital look to things. I did try setting the color mode in the normal menu to monitor, and i hated it, so im leaving color just as it is.

I keep my color axis at monitor. All it really is tho is asn easy fix for people to lower the red push without going into the service menu. I noticed when switching to default color axis while in service menu the RYR and RYB settings changed to like 8 and 9.

Well right now the TV is bugging me cause they are showing Star wars on HBO HD and it's in widescreen mode so there are still black bars on top and bottom and it really makes me notice the geometry problem i'm having with the screen bowing down on the top left corner like i said. Also i'm able to see the blue horizontal line problem on the bottom where the picture cuts off and the black bar is. It's only on the left bottom side then goes away toward the right. Looks like how it would look if you have blanking set to high that you see it reflecting, only you can't do anything about it! Goes away if i curve the screen up using VCEN but then the picture is unwatchable and bowed even worse. It's annoying as hell tho when a white screen comes on and see this blue line across the bottom of the screen.

Here is the blue problem. Well what it looks like using bigpal als picks and some paint. Anybody else have this problem on their set?

nope, what did u do to it, lol

Nothing! it was always there! Just never really noticeable cause the picture usually takes up the whole screen. Could be the direction my set is facing, causing a convergence issue, but i'm not changing my whole set up around for it.

man i hope it's not from my center speaker thats right under the TV! it's shielded but even so it still gave me picture problems on my old set. I'm gonna move it right now and see if thats the culprit. Then again if it was cuase of the speaker i'm sure the whole bottom would be messed up and not just one area. I can't put this speaker on top of the TV so hopefully thats not it.

Well the good news is it wasn't the center speaker, the bad news is it wasn't the center speaker.
*high-fives*

it could really be a directional issue? cause i have my tv facing north south....if i switched it, that could fix things?

Well the good news is it wasn't the center speaker, the bad news is it wasn't the center speaker.
*high-fives*
LOL, I know! It's pretty retarded when we have to move our speakers around in a comical effort to see if that will fix our geometry/green-blob issues.

...Well right now the TV is bugging me cause they are showing Star wars on HBO HD and it's in widescreen mode so there are still black bars on top and bottom and it really makes me notice the geometry problem i'm having with the screen bowing down on the top left corner like i said. Also i'm able to see the blue horizontal line problem on the bottom where the picture cuts off and the black bar is. It's only on the left bottom side then goes away toward the right......If you are watching HBOHD in a 16x9 1080i format using FULL screen mode on your 970, then the black bars should actually be part of the video signal from HBO. A blue line at the junction of the horizontal black bar and bottom of the OAR movie is very likely not being produced by your set.

would have been nice if they made a zoom setting for 2.35:1 movies

if they did it just enough to lose the bars, i don't think you would lose that much off the sides

i probably wouldn't use it anyway, i'm too much of a purist

I never use any of the zoom settings. Well cept FULL screen for 4:3 480 cause thats crap anyways.

Makes no sense tho cause for 4:3 they say wide zoom stretches the picture with "minimal distortion" which is BS cause when viewing a 4:3 test pattern in wide zoom all the squares are different sizes, but when viewing in FULL they are the same size.

it could really be a directional issue? cause i have my tv facing north south....if i switched it, that could fix things?

Yea! the earth sucks and causes problems on the TV! They need somebody to calibrate that instead of TV's

If you are watching HBOHD in a 16x9 1080i format using FULL screen mode on your 970, then the black bars should actually be part of the video signal from HBO. A blue line at the junction of the horizontal black bar and bottom of the OAR movie is very likely not being produced by your set.

But on starz HD when they showed Pirates dead mans chest in the same way i was still getting the blue line. It's the TV :( I think i need to take it out back and hose it down.

I never use any of the zoom settings. Well cept FULL screen for 4:3 480 cause thats crap anyways.I use the following Screen Modes:

WideZoom for 4:3 480i
FULL for anamorphic DVD 480i
FULL for HD
Zoom for letterboxed (DVD or 4:3 480i)

I have found WideZoom to be best for normal 4:3 material. It only distorts the outer edges while leaving the center of the screen undistorted. This distortion is adjustable in the SM.

But on starz HD when they showed Pirates dead mans chest in the same way i was still getting the blue line. It's the TV :( I think i need to take it out back and hose it down.Yes, it sounds like the blue line is being produced in the set. However, when movies shown in HD, with OAR of >16:9 requiring black horizontal bars, the bars are part of the HD signal. I'm not sure how to interpret your inconsistency.

Unplug it first. :eek:

Like i said it kinda looks like how it would on the sides say if you have RBLK or LBLK set to high and you can see the edge of the black lines of the screen and it causes a discoloration. BBLK don't help tho and if i try to move the whole picture up or down the blue line just follows. I was able to rid myself of a bright line on the side of the set by repositioning the horizontal raster size with DHHP and DHHS so that the picture IS in the middle and no crap is seen on either sides. cause man the way they set this TV up at the factory, I mean come on! 5% overscan on the right 10%!!! on the left! They just did that to hide the garbage that they didn't want to fix! Well we fixed it ourselves.

Like i said it kinda looks like how it would on the sides say if you have RBLK or LBLK set to high and you can see the edge of the black lines of the screen and it causes a discoloration. BBLK don't help tho and if i try to move the whole picture up or down the blue line just follows. I was able to rid myself of a bright line on the side of the set by repositioning the horizontal raster size with DHHP and DHHS so that the picture IS in the middle and no crap is seen on either sides. cause man the way they set this TV up at the factory, I mean come on! 5% overscan on the right 10%!!! on the left! They just did that to hide the garbage that they didn't want to fix! Well we fixed it ourselves.Is it possible that what your seeing is actually a convergence problem in that area of the screen? Blue not converged with green and red. Just tossing out a possiblility.

I agree on the overscan. 5-10 percent seems to be acceptable from the factory. It appears it causes quite the problem with gaming in particular.

Yea it definitely can be. BUT i don't see any blue convergence errors when viewing any test patterns so i don't know! I'm stumped. I have some red ones tho but it's only fixable with magnets on the set, or if i jack up VCEN it acts like it re-aligns the convergence lines, but bows everything out of whack.

I wish there was more info on this set settings wise. Only pretty much hear about the 960. Like there are some settings in the service menu that i dont see in any of the 960 data, or see it talked about, such as in the MID 5 settings there are some parameters i never heard mentioned such as MVEL and things like that, that the 960 don't have or have named differently.

I have the service manual and it doesn't cover hardly any adjustments. There's a whole 10 pages of adjustments, convergence and geometry and a few other basic things, that's all.

ive noticed the 5%-10% overscan as a major problem as well, esp with next gen gaming. Honestly though, why should there be any overscan issues to begin with, alot of hard work went into capturing the image on film, and who the hell is sony to tell us we dont deserve to see part of it?

Infact that and some minor geometry issues are my few beefs with this tv. infact it seems that everything the LCD tv i had before this did right, this does wrong, and visa versa! Its almost anoying, i have to trade deep rich blacks that arent crushed for washed out greys , backlight leakage, or ghosting and dead pixels.

Atleat the LCD showed all the image. Aggh.

I mean, with ajusting ive improved the image, but its still not perfect, and idk, im not aking for much, but, cant i just have a HD tv that shows all the image and no defects with the imaging process what so ever?

Or maby im just over picky. Yes i know nothings perfect, but, it drives u insane, because, when u know somthings off, no matter how minor it is, it distracts you, (for me atleast) intill i can fix it, its just my nature.

Oh well, better then nothing, right. Intill i somehow win the lotto, or get a really good job and buy a 1080p 60 inch plasma (and even then they only last 2 years), it will have to do!

But you need to realize this.. What are big-time hollywood directors still using? i don't see any vizio LCD monitors in there behind the scenes movies! CRT till we die bigpalal! don't give up hope! can't fix all these problems in a day! I'm still working on them myself!

But we differ! I may be ying, you may be yang. I want the color, deep blacks. You want the perfect geometry, you SAY you want the color and deep blacks! But that geometry on the 970 is getting to you! Don't front! me too tho lol. I'm shocked tho! No posts lately about "well isf calibrators can fix that" LOL yea until they get in your house! Never hear about how the isf calibrators COULDN'T fix the xbr970 geometry... cause it can't be fixed!