Lovin' the new forum. Thought I'd try to start that DIY gallery thread, with component links and total cost. Maybe separate ones for subs and speakers? Best to keep it pictures and links and no questions (Use PM for that).

Anyway, here's mine. I call it "The Low End" :)

Design: Sealed
Enclosure: ~ 3 cu. ft. (20" cube minus bracing, etc.)
Driver: 15" Quatro (http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=295-560)
Amp: 240W PE Plate Amp (http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=300-804)
Misc.: Beech Vinyl Laminate (http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/pshowdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=260-012), Heavy Duty Grill Guides (http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=260-367)
Total Cost: ~ $275

http://home.comcast.net/~mgbaughan/images/Quatro_pics.jpg

Avalanche 18 Sonosub

Design: Ported
Enclosure: 651 effective liters, 28" diameter tube, tuned to ~13.5hz
Driver: Ascendant Audio Avalanche 18 (discontinued)
Amp: Carvin HD1800 (http://www.carvin.com/products/single.php?ItemNumber=HD1800&CID=PWA)
Total Cost: $1500 for two


http://gallery.avsforum.com/data/507/110.jpg

http://gallery.avsforum.com/data/507/61.jpg

Can't wait to get the fronts all done.

Heres my sub. 9 cubic feet internal, 54 inches tall, 20 inches diameter, 15" SoundSplinter Rl-p15 dual 4 ohm, Behringer EP1500.

More info here. (http://www.cwitt.com/building_a_sonotube_subwoofer.htm)

Finished

http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b297/chasw98/Subwoofer/photo1.jpg


Top Plate

http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b297/chasw98/Subwoofer/Top_plate.jpg

Driver

http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b297/chasw98/Subwoofer/driver.jpg

FR Graph after EQ with BFD

http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b297/chasw98/Subwoofer/Center_post_eq_021006.jpg

Entry level line array I made for my friend.
http://home.pacbell.net/lordpk/robarray/

Drivers Per Tower
16 - 4" Pioneer midwoofers {Partsexpress buyout driver, 49 cents each}.
10 - Dayton PT2B planar tweeter, ~ $25 each in bulk.

Driver Power Handling
Midwoofers are rated for 5 watts rms.
Tweeters are rated for 80w rms.

Calculated Line Array Sensitivity
Low impedance mode: 104dB {3.2 ohm midwoofers, 0.8 ohm tweeters}
High impedance mode: 98dB {8 ohm midwoofers, 3.2 ohm tweeters}

Line Array Power Handling
Very high, it's running four QSC PLX3402 in bridge mode, 3400w per amplifier,
13,400 watts total using pro audio amplifier ratings.

Maximum SPL, 8 - 12 feet distance in room
Upper midbass: > 126dB[c] {meter hit it's limit}
Midrange: ~ 122dB[c]
Tweeters: ~ 115db[c]

Cabinet Construction;
Two piece design with rotating top section.
3/4" oak plywood, stained and polyurethane.
3/4" MDF front baffle, primered and painted gloss black.
3/4" solid oak base trim.

Bottom Section {base}
This is the central hub for all wiring using terminal blocks and it's the control center for
driver impedance selection and each tweeter has it's own dedicated fuse. It's wired for
either 8 ohms or 2 ohms on the midwoofers, 3.2 ohms or 0.8 ohms on the tweeters, a
switch controls selection.

Driver Chamber;
It's a ported design where four midwoofers share a common chamber and
each chamber is tuned to a calculated 100hz, F3 - 75hz. One 6" rear ported per chamber,
four chambers per line array tower.

Cabinet Dampening
5/8" MDF, 12"x12" panels installed on every chamber wall except the front baffle.
Acousta-Stuf inside poly-batting to make sound conditioning pillows on each chamber wall except the front baffle.
1.25" dowel per chamber for cross bracing to lower cabinet resonant frequency.

Driver Modifications
The midwoofers received lacquer cone treatments for sound improvement.

Crossover
It's an active setup. A Behringer DCX2496 {digital crossover} is used for the
tweeters and midranges. Crossover frequencies can be adjusted on the fly as per
listener needs. You can program the DCX with tons of settings for different applications.
Typically, I use a Linkwitz Riley 8th order stope, 1.71khz on the tweeters/mids,
and high pass 65hz on the midwoofers.

Amplification
Select high impedance mode and use weak amplifiers, the high sensitivity nature
of the line array will generate more than enough SPL for the normal listening session.
If you feel in the mood for a concert in home, switch to low impedanc mode and
run big power amplifiers like those proamps that's driving it.

I made two enclosures for the Dayton 15" Titanic MKIII, one ported and one sealed. They were both made out of double 3/4" walls of HDF for a thickness of 1.5". There are more pics on my signature.

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y200/omega_817/DSCF0341.jpg

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y200/omega_817/DSCF0347.jpg

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y200/omega_817/DSCF0174.jpg

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y200/omega_817/DSCF0231.jpg

http://www.cyberfrogs.net/photo/index.php?directory=/albums/house/mediaroom&page=4

infinite baffle vented under the kitchen.
2 x 15" atlas drivers powered by adcom gfa-545 (one driver per channel

baffle is 2 sheets of 3/4" mdf laminated together using gorilla glue

adcom has a DC decoupling cap circuit between it and the receiver that I made in order to elimate the constant pop when changing sources on the receiver. its a simple HPF cut at 8hz using some quality caps from PE.

a couple of people have emailed me abot the HPF for my IB that I used to eliminate any DC shift to the inputs of the adcom, here is a quick and dirty schematic.

http://www.muzique.com/images/hpf.gif

Be sure to use quality poly caps...I used some Solen caps from PE. My adcom's input resistance is 22kohm, that in parallel with the 100kohm yields about 18kohm resistance.

That in combination with the 1uF cap yields around 8.8hz corner frequency. I'm currently using a 4.7uF cap...dropping the corner down even further to 2hz, that would make sure that the filter has no audible effect, being that the adcom will probably rolloff before then.

I had to use this filter because the GFA-545 does not have any decoupling caps in it, and this caused the IB drivers to pop when being turned on/off or anytime the input signal was changed.

I made the filter, placed it into a project box as shown with RCA type leads on each end. It is connected to the LFE output on my receiver and then to the input on the adcom.

here is a dirty pix:

the resistor is on the underside of the board

http://gallery.avsforum.com/data/507/Home_Theater_003a.jpg
Here's my sub / riser. It's a pseudo-horn. 2 10-inch 500W drivers. (partsexpress.com). It's technically two 4th order bandpass subs with both ports dumping out into a common chamber (the pseudo horn). Total height is 13 inches. The non-square boxes by virtue of the piecewise horn shaping providing great cancellation of undesired standing waves. The structual construction is MDF. The riser steps are solid oak stairsteps. The right and left flanking cabinets are just oak panel and MDF construction with pine kickplates.

The sub itself is just the center 1/3 section (the horn) the pieces on the the left and right side of the sub are just storage (empty).


http://gallery.avsforum.com/data/507/WO_mod_Design.jpg

The sub design is a modified "Wicked One". The mod itself is an additional 6 inches in length (of the horn) with a wide flare over the last six inches. You can see each sealed boxes (left and right bottom) and the ported boxes (left and right upper) with the common "horn".

It's a whole house shaker. Particularly good mechanical vibrations when sitting on the couch on the top of the riser. The Horn gives a good room fill despite being just behind the front row of seating. I don't have the equipment to run an FR on it. It's driven with Peavey CS-800 (2x400W into 4 ohms) and filtered with a RANE active crossover with the 3db point set at 70Hz.

Avalanche 18 Sonosub

Design: Ported
Enclosure: 651 effective liters, 28" diameter tube, tuned to ~14.7hz
Driver: Ascendant Audio Avalanche 18 (discontinued)
Amp: Carvin HD1800 (http://www.carvin.com/products/single.php?ItemNumber=HD1800&CID=PWA)
Total Cost: $1500 for two


http://gallery.avsforum.com/data/507/110.jpg

http://gallery.avsforum.com/data/507/61.jpg


Man, it looks like you live in an apartment. How many times have you had the cops called?!? heh

bimmerboy, really creative design...I like it a lot. Couple of questions. Have you ever measured the response of your design? Also, I think I know where the subs are located in that design but could you clarify that for me? Does the fact that the horn is two different lengths (steps) cause any problems?

From the original post:
Best to keep it pictures and links and no questions (Use PM for that).

I'll be deleting this message soon to keep this a gallery only thread.

-Robert

XBL2 Atlas 15 inch driver .,6 cubic ft tuned to 21 hz.Twin flared 4in ports 18 in long.PE 500 watt into 4 ohms with a single band peq.Marble finish with clear coat the buffed with rubbing compound.

bimmerboy, really creative design...I like it a lot. Couple of questions. Have you ever measured the response of your design? Also, I think I know where the subs are located in that design but could you clarify that for me? Does the fact that the horn is two different lengths (steps) cause any problems?


Sorry, I don't have the equipment to measure the response. I think the 3db point was designed for 28.1 Hz. Each sub is on the left and right side on the pieces that run parallel to the top and bottom of the wire drawing.

The Horns start out in the upper (left and right) corners. the gap at the very corner is the throat. The horns are independent up until each reaches the center (vertical axis) of the box. There, they become one. I was originally disappointed with the response. I thought it came out sounding more like a midbass horn. I was feeding it the subwoofer pre-output of my receiver which had a 3db point of 150Hz!. One of my Peavey CS-800's takes that pre-out and drives the sub. I could've fixed that by dropping in a pair of passive crossovers, but I had on hand a 2-way active crossover. It could go down to 70Hz with an 18DB/octave rolloff. Once I put that in, I was happy. So I'd recommend putting in either a passive or active crossover if building this sub.

The horn as I mentioned earlier is derived from the "Wicked One". http://www.decware.com/whorn.htm is the website that has more details on the original design.

Been a while since my last project...here's what I've got pics of:

An old PR job with Lambda 15PR1400's and assorted 12's:

http://home.comcast.net/~tgilvey/IMG_0786.JPG

My raw dipole, Adire DPL12's:

http://home.comcast.net/~jgilvey/IMG_0121.jpg

Dual 15 IB, Atlas 15's:

http://home.comcast.net/~jgilvey/IMG_0037.jpg

Raw PR sub, AV12 and Lambdas:

http://home.comcast.net/~tgilvey/IMG_0702.JPG

Buncha others not worth archiving. ;)

http://gallery.avsforum.com/data/507/TV_Stand_Sub.jpg

This is a 4th order isobaric sub with 2 18" Peavey Black Widow drivers. 3/4" Particleboard veneered with Poplar veneer and a 1/2" Poplar surface with glass inlay. Port (not shown) is on the wall side.

Here's the abridged pictorial of my dual sealed servo sub:

Interior layout:
http://home.comcast.net/~consumes/bass/sub_unassembled.jpg

Push/pull drivers mounted out of sight on back/top:
http://home.comcast.net/~consumes/bass/drivers_installed.jpg

And finally, installed:
http://home.comcast.net/~consumes/bass/sub_at_night.jpg

I can't find any pics of it completed but here are some pics taken while building it. It's a 115L sealed tumult with 1000w amp.

http://img489.imageshack.us/img489/8155/untitled10nz.th.jpg (http://img489.imageshack.us/my.php?image=untitled10nz.jpg)

http://img230.imageshack.us/img230/9282/untitled21ci.th.jpg (http://img230.imageshack.us/my.php?image=untitled21ci.jpg)

http://img230.imageshack.us/img230/8039/untitled31vu.th.jpg (http://img230.imageshack.us/my.php?image=untitled31vu.jpg)

http://img489.imageshack.us/img489/4093/untitled46wc.th.jpg (http://img489.imageshack.us/my.php?image=untitled46wc.jpg)

I'll try to get some of it completed as well.

I decided I wanted to do a complete matched 7.1 system, so I made 3 LCRs (Image 2), 2 Subs (Image 3), and 4 surrounds (Image 4). Image 5 is a close up of the XT tweeter and my own badge...

Image 1 is my DIY 2.35:1 screen (but that's another story)

The system uses 14 VIFA P17 woofers, 17 VIFA XT Super Tweeters and 2 sets of the PEERLESS XLS Active/Passive combos.

http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f286/CAVX/Speakers/DSC01450.jpg
http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f286/CAVX/Speakers/LCR.jpg
http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f286/CAVX/Speakers/DSC01027.jpg
http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f286/CAVX/Speakers/DSC01032.jpg
http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f286/CAVX/Speakers/CAVE%2005/tweeter.jpg

Mark

mark...awesome. bet that sounds great!

Mark:
Did you design the L/C/R's after the M&K models? They look great! Next time I'm down under, I want to come by and hear them.

Chuck

Mark:
Did you design the L/C/R's after the M&K models? They look great! Next time I'm down under, I want to come by and hear them.

Chuck
No Probs there :) Just PM for details...

Yes I liked the compact design and M&K's THX 150 certainly achieved that, so yes it was huge inspiration towards my design.

I just decided to use a tweeter with a wider band and use larger woofers (6.5" over the 5.25") for more defined midbass and VIFA make both high quality units at an affordable price. The system plays loud and clean with good imaging and I really like them...

Mark

Mark:
I have a feeling that yours probably work better than the M&K's. Something about DIY that will surpass commercial models......

Chuck

Well what I love about DIY (apart from the cost factor :D) is the ability to have a bit of creative freedom. When you buy off the shelf, you have to like it 100% or grin and bear the parts you don't. With a DIY project, you can change the parts that don't work for you and create that "special" something that can often not be bought...

Mark

Amazing, Mark.

2.35:1 CIH is the only way to go.
You are correct, sir.

Heres a couple pictures of my dual adire audio tempest 15 subwoofer. I did this box maybe 6 months ago for my recroom.

http://img217.imageshack.us/img217/623/dscn07353ds.th.jpg (http://img217.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dscn07353ds.jpg)


http://img476.imageshack.us/img476/7843/dscn07361vr.th.jpg (http://img476.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dscn07361vr.jpg)

Dont have any pictures while building it.

OK I took some pictures this morning of my speaker. Sealed 115L Tumult powered by a 1000w Kiega plate amp.

http://img407.imageshack.us/img407/8196/speaker003large1lx.th.jpg (http://img407.imageshack.us/my.php?image=speaker003large1lx.jpg)

http://img219.imageshack.us/img219/2316/speaker004large2op.th.jpg (http://img219.imageshack.us/my.php?image=speaker004large2op.jpg)

http://img219.imageshack.us/img219/7906/speaker005large3lq.th.jpg (http://img219.imageshack.us/my.php?image=speaker005large3lq.jpg)

http://img483.imageshack.us/img483/1037/speaker006large1lt.th.jpg (http://img483.imageshack.us/my.php?image=speaker006large1lt.jpg)

The sides are Baltic Birch stained in a maple or honey maple if I remember right. The trim pieces are just poplar(can't remember the stain) and the top is actually a bunch of scraps from some shipping pallets that were cut down and run thru the planer and glued together. I gotta say my father actually did most of the work. I'm there more for beer/soda runs when he gets thirsty lol. I did do all the sanding and staining though.

i wanted something to complement my Orb's from orbaudio..
so I decided to build my own speherical sub:
http://users.pandora.be/MrSensitive/OrbSub/finished1.JPG

http://users.pandora.be/MrSensitive/OrbSub/finished4.JPG

it's only a 8inch driver, but it goes deep and loud enough for me...
and it blends in quite nice with my orbs, both visually and musically..

Where did you get a sphere to build that with? Looks very interesting and beautiful!

Chuck

Don't you ever feel like it's staring at you?

My old news.

http://kingdaddy.linaeum.com/

^^^ holy hell you are wood freak!

i wanted something to complement my Orb's from orbaudio..
so I decided to build my own speherical sub:
http://users.pandora.be/MrSensitive/OrbSub/finished1.JPG

http://users.pandora.be/MrSensitive/OrbSub/finished4.JPG

it's only a 8inch driver, but it goes deep and loud enough for me...
and it blends in quite nice with my orbs, both visually and musically..

That is very nice...

Did anyone remember seeing that "Death Star" subwoofer on ebay a while back?

Mark

Where did you get a sphere to build that with? Looks very interesting and beautiful!

Chuck

Chuck,

I used a styrofoam ball that can be bought in any hobby shop..
on this i glues a paper model of the driver this formed the inner shape of the enclusure, including bolts..
http://users.pandora.be/MrSensitive/OrbSub/finished%20mold%20small.JPG

after the mold has been covered with resin I could start applying polyester
http://users.pandora.be/MrSensitive/OrbSub/5%20layers%20of%20glass.jpg

after about 8 layers it looks like this:
http://users.pandora.be/MrSensitive/OrbSub/phase%20one%201.jpg

a second mold to resemble the outer rim of the driver
http://users.pandora.be/MrSensitive/OrbSub/phase%20one%204.jpg

and another 3 - 4 layers of glass
after removing all molding: and sanding the hell out it:
http://users.pandora.be/MrSensitive/OrbSub/mold%20removed.JPG

then a lot of filling and sanding was required
http://users.pandora.be/MrSensitive/OrbSub/filling%20and%20sanding2.JPG

keep doing this a few times (8 in my case)
and then you can start painting, it turned out to be too cold over here, so the paintjod is a disaster. I have to wait until summer to redo this.
in the mean time it is playing very nice..

Damn! A lot of work for an 8 inch sub. I hate to think what it would take for an 18 incher. You did a nice job, though.

Yes, that is a lot of work and a very cool looking subwoofer.

This thread should be made a STICKY...

Mark

Can you say Mike Wazouski!!!

Here is a shot of my subs and mains.
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c361/BowedToothDoc/5653273f.jpg

I though I was nuts when I finally settled in on the centered position for my subs.Good to see more positioned like this.

What are they?

I though I was nuts when I finally settled in on the centered position for my subs.Good to see more positioned like this.
There's always the possibility that you're both nuts.

I though I was nuts when I finally settled in on the centered position for my subs.Good to see more positioned like this.

What are they?

They are 12in Shiva's in sealed enclosures. The mains are Alpha LS line arrays.

There's always the possibility that you're both nuts.

Thats a definite possibility!

First sub ever. Box made with leftover scrap material from another job. It a 12" Avalanche from Ascendant Audio. I just need three more :D

http://img107.imageshack.us/img107/3482/sub9cy.jpg

Everything in time.it took me two years to get my whole systen together :D .The subs I mean.

ifeliciano:
What did you make that port out of? Was it the 6 inch AeroPort from 2loud4you?

Chuck

That looks like just the regular 4" precision port from PE.

That looks like just the regular 4" precision port from PE.

Yep same thing as PE, but I got it from Ascendant Audio when i bought my driver.

Precision Sound Products 4" Port (http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=268-352)

Yep same thing as PE, but I got it from Ascendant Audio when i bought my driver.

Precision Sound Products 4" Port (http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=268-352)

http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b297/chasw98/aeroport1.jpg

It sure looked bigger to me. Above is a picture of the Aeroport 6 inch with a 15 inch driver next to it.

Ooh he said that was the 12" avalanche driver, not the 15", maybe that's why?

Ooh he said that was the 12" avalanche driver, not the 15", maybe that's why?
Doh! You're right. Me not thinking. :eek:

http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f164/khan95osu/theater001.jpg
http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f164/khan95osu/theater002.jpg

12" ascendant audio assasin, PE 250W amp w/ remote, 4" precision port . 4.5 cubes, tned to 20hz.. i get port noise at 97dB @ 1m. havent tried to turn it up much more since i have upstairs neighbors. room acoustics are awful so i can judge exactly how good this COULD sound. still gets the couch vibrating as is.

Any ideas on how to keep the Left main speaker from walking across the top of the sub in bass heavy scenes? apart from bolting it down?

remote module area isnt finished yet since i screwed up and cut the hole to the wrong size when i drew the hole and wasnt thinking

http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f164/khan95osu/theater001.jpg
http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f164/khan95osu/theater002.jpg


Any ideas on how to keep the Left main speaker from walking across the top of the sub in bass heavy scenes? apart from bolting it down?



Get some wall mounts.

When companies like B&W and JAMO made their first gen THX certified systems, the subs were often stands for the L and Rs, so a small metal mount came with the system so you could screw don the L and R speakers...
Use a small strip of MDF the same width as the main speaker and two small metal L brackets. That way there won't be holes in the top of the sub later on...

Mark

^^ not sure exactly what ur saying here? Id prefer not to put a hole into the sub nor do i want holes in the mains. the mains also dont extend all the way to the back of the sub, but the fronts are flush

The MDF can be a painted to match, but is used along with L plates to screw it together. I agree, the last thing you want is screw marks in the top of the SUB.

At worst, you end up with small screw marks in the back, but they should be out of site...

Mark

Try a square of the rubber weave stuff you put under small rugs to prevent them from slipping on hardwood/laminate/tile floors. You can find near the area rugs in any Target/Walmart/Kmart.


Mark

good thinking with the carpet anti-run stuff. i'll give it a shot since im too lazy to fabricate anything else.

oh ya if anyone else thinks the display on their DSP1124 (or any other component without dimming feature) is tooooo bright for nite time, go to ur auto parts store and get soem window tint. 10 bucks a roll... ya its 350% more than u need ... or go to a tinter and ask for scraps. helps a ton.

good thinking with the carpet anti-run stuff. i'll give it a shot since im too lazy to fabricate anything else.

oh ya if anyone else thinks the display on their DSP1124 (or any other component without dimming feature) is tooooo bright for nite time, go to ur auto parts store and get soem window tint. 10 bucks a roll... ya its 350% more than u need ... or go to a tinter and ask for scraps. helps a ton.

Another option would be to use the rubber bumpers that are typically used to hold glass in place (for example on a glass dining room table that has a metal frame - the glass sits on these bumpers to hold it in place and add a little cushion). These are available at Lowe's or Home Depot for a couple bucks. Depending on the surface, they tend to stick pretty well but are also easy to remove.

Nice idea on the tinting, I wish I would have thought of that before I threw away all my extra smoked limo tint!

This manifold is located in the basement and fires upward through a 14 inch hole in my living room floor. The manifold has 8 15 inch Acoustic Elegance IB drivers powered by 2 Behringer EP2500 pro amps. The EQ is handled by a Behringer BFD 1124.
http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e202/IsTheFloorMoving/Infinite%20Baffle%20Subwoofer/4449a96a.jpg

I am a proud member of the Cult of the Infinitely Baffled where other bass cultists hang out. http://ibsubwoofers.proboards51.com/index.cgi

I built these Ellis Audio 1801Fs about a year and a half ago. If you're interested in the gory details, take a look at my 1801F Project Page (http://home.hiwaay.net/~rgs/ellis1801f/default.html). (Click the Home link at the top right of the page to see some of my other DIY projects, including a TV stand.)

Ron

http://home.hiwaay.net/~rgs/ellis1801f/finalRight.jpg

http://home.hiwaay.net/~rgs/ellis1801f/finalAccess.jpg

http://home.hiwaay.net/~rgs/ellis1801f/grilleCutout.jpg

That is a stunning speaker.

Nice work

Mine has been done for a few months, but I just finished putting the veneer on it....anyways:

Here is my Sub:

Driver: AE Speakers AV15 15" Longthrow driver (http://yellow.mynethost.com/~bv126368/shop/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=21&products_id=53&osCsid=047b9a3859c64bd8338df89ea6bf9dee)
Amp: Oaudio 500W Bash Plate amp with PEQ (http://www.oaudio.com/500W_SUBAMP.html)
Design: See my Thread here (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=604762&highlight=stryke)


More tweaking and measurements still left, and finish on the sub still pending....but it is up and running, and sounding better than my $1300 SVS Ultra thus far :) I will update as I get more results and do more work, but here are the results thus far:
http://thumb17.webshots.net/t/59/59/5/82/39/2778582390037002257PBAphN_th.jpg (http://community.webshots.com/photo/2778582390037002257PBAphN)

for comparison, here is the SVS PB-12 ultra:
http://thumb17.webshots.net/t/61/161/5/63/56/2629563560037002257xTKlgd_th.jpg (http://community.webshots.com/photo/2629563560037002257xTKlgd)

here are the results with the AV15 and Ultra in pair, no EQ:
http://thumb17.webshots.net/t/61/61/8/98/9/2640898090037002257BnsjEz_th.jpg (http://community.webshots.com/photo/2640898090037002257BnsjEz)

ps- Big Thanks and Help from Chasw98 in the construction of it...couldn't have done it without his help and tools!

UPDATE: here is the final product!! (click to enlarge)
http://thumb17.webshots.net/t/40/41/7/32/62/2104732620037002257HLbRzg_th.jpg (http://community.webshots.com/photo/2104732620037002257HLbRzg)http://thumb17.webshots.net/t/48/48/4/41/58/2260441580037002257ScqCLi_th.jpg (http://community.webshots.com/photo/2260441580037002257ScqCLi)http://thumb17.webshots.net/t/44/44/2/87/62/2027287620037002257XScefE_th.jpg (http://community.webshots.com/photo/2027287620037002257XScefE)http://thumb17.webshots.net/t/59/59/6/56/51/2867656510037002257iFSlbd_th.jpg (http://community.webshots.com/photo/2867656510037002257iFSlbd)
http://thumb17.webshots.net/t/57/157/7/42/75/2768742750037002257NBSkpa_th.jpg (http://community.webshots.com/photo/2768742750037002257NBSkpa)http://thumb17.webshots.net/t/54/54/2/74/99/2583274990037002257SQWdnH_th.jpg (http://community.webshots.com/photo/2583274990037002257SQWdnH)

more pics here:
http://entertainment.webshots.com/album/550404344xwDkkr

Any ideas on how to keep the Left main speaker from walking across the top of the sub in bass heavy scenes? apart from bolting it down?

Auralex MoPad Isolation pads will do the trick. I use 2 of them for my left and right mains that sit on top of 15" avalanche subs.

http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detail/-/B0002D0B4K/102-2784914-5691322?v=glance

Some very nice work here. Mods, please STICKY this thread...

Mark

Some very nice work here. Mods, please STICKY this thread...

Mark
I second that request. It should be a reference thread for people coming to this forum.

Here is a photo of my completed Alpha LS project and one of my helpers.
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c361/BowedToothDoc/7329fd34.jpg

Credit for the success of this project goes out to the guys over at HTGuide Forum's Mission Possible DIY, especially Thomas, Chuck, Steve, Ben, and collo. I could not have done it without all of their advice and knowledge.

Soundsplinter RLp-15 driver in 24" dia. x 46" H Sonotube, 300L net internal volume, 8" dia. x 33" L sonotube port for 17.5 Hz enclosure tune. Low-gloss dappled finish on end caps and floor plate is Plasti-Kote truck bed liner. Tube is covered in black speaker carpet. Port grille is DIY made from a ring of MDF and speaker grille cloth (cloth looks purplish in photo but black in person). The wall-mounted amp is a Samson S700 with each 350W channel driving one of the dual 4-ohm voice coils of the driver, for total of 700W. Amp is remote powered on/off by receiver's low-current switched outlet through a 15A solid state AC relay. Cost of build: driver $300, amp $300, materials and incidentals $200.

http://home.insightbb.com/~henry.menke/Sonosub_RLp-15_A.JPG

http://home.insightbb.com/~henry.menke/Sonosub_RLp-15_B.JPG

http://home.insightbb.com/~henry.menke/Sonosub_RLp-15_C.JPG

http://home.insightbb.com/~henry.menke/Sonosub_RLp-15_D.JPG

Uncorrected room response (tough room!)

http://home.insightbb.com/~henry.menke/Sonosub_uncorrected_80Hz_X-over_10-150Hz_sweep.jpg

Initial FR after equalization with Behringer DSP1124A Feedback Destroyer Pro (still tweaking)...

http://home.insightbb.com/~henry.menke/Sonosub_corrected_EQ_80Hz_X-over_10-150Hz_sweep.jpg

AutoCAD LT 2002 CAD model for download:
http://home.insightbb.com/~henry.menke/Sonosub_300L_24_inch_dia_tube.dwg

.DXF CAD model for download:
http://home.insightbb.com/~henry.menke/Sonosub_300L_24_inch_dia_tube.dxf

Design and construction thread
http://www.htguide.com/forum/showthread.php4?t=18713

VERY nice, good work on the finishing. All these super flat FRs are tempting me to try a BFD out.

VERY nice, good work on the finishing. All these super flat FRs are tempting me to try a BFD out.

do yourself a favor and invest in some room treatments first...all the FR graphs are nice, but I would be willing to bet that as soon as the mic moves, the peaks and dips are back. might be nice for sitting in the sweet spot....

do yourself a favor and invest in some room treatments first...all the FR graphs are nice, but I would be willing to bet that as soon as the mic moves, the peaks and dips are back. might be nice for sitting in the sweet spot....I've been thinking about building some tube traps like these:

http://www.teresaudio.com/haven/traps/traps.html

but have been waiting to complete the sub and see what the specific issues are first. But this discussion should happen in another thread not the gallery.

Design Thread: http://www.htguide.com/forum/showthread.php4?t=17748
Design: Ported, tuned to 17hz
Enclosure: 7.77 cubic foot box after subtracting braces, etc.; 24.5 x 24.5 x 33 external dimensions
Driver: Dayton 15" DVC (http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=295-190)
Amplifier: Rythmik Audio 250w Plate Amp (http://www.rythmikaudio.com/nonservo_product.htm#250basic) with a 16hz rumble filter
EQ: None yet
Cost: around $320 total
Prior Experience: 1 - built some half decent speakers for a science fair
Summary: This was a really fun project to make. The whole process probably took about 6 months including all the research, ordering of the parts, and actually constructing the enclosure. This thing gets loud and low, but it still sounds good for music. I haven't tested it's full limits yet, but I've never heard it bottom out or anything. The finish is Duplicolor truck bed lining, I used a quart for basic coverage and then used a spray can to get a more even finish, holding the can about 2 feet away while I sprayed. The side panels are 22 x 24.5, and are covered by aluminum flashing that you can find at any Home Depot for about $10 for a 2'x10' roll.

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d43/derekbannatyne/finishedsub2.jpg
http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d43/derekbannatyne/thedriver.jpg
http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d43/derekbannatyne/100_0756.jpg

15 inch Quatro
rythmik audio a350
END TABLE!

Hey all, I'm a newbie and this is one of my crowning acheivements here. Tese were built about 3 years ago, I did my own rear speakers too but I think I could have done a better job. They ain't much but they sound great. Need to upgrade the bass drivers though. They perform great but I think I can get more out of the enclosure with better drivers. For right now as the saying goes, if it ain't broke don't try to fix it (yet).

Nice Job people on the gallery....

I'll try and get David to sticky some pertinent info specific to DIY + gallery soon...

keep up the good work.

Driver:Sound Splinter RLP15
Enclosure:4.5cubic ft sealed
Powered:EP2500

Finally got this baby finished.
She's 22" high, 6.5cu/ft., slot-vented (tuned to 21Hz) and custom made for this corner installation. Enclosure is well-braced 3/4" mdf, with heavy flaked oak veneer. Finished with satin oil-based poly for durability and "teak gel stain" to match our existing oak furniture. Baffle is 1" MDF done with flat black, topped off with clear satin water-based poly.
Oh yeah, performance? Our open-plan house is now filled with very deep, smooth bass. This unit does have punch (when called for in many HT scenes) and works well in tandem with my existing XLS10/12PR unit that's powered by a Dayton 250 amp. Used some Larry Carlton and Sarah McLachlan material to check out it's "musicality" - easily passed that test.
The MCM Audiosource 150W buyout amp (on the right in the photos) powers the 4 BassShakers installed in our couch. Dialed in properly, anything below 80Hz is seamlessly heard and felt.
Watched a couple of episodes of 24 to give this integration a test run. Sean Callery's a genius with those throbbing low notes (you know, when Jack Bauer is caught in another %@&# situation) that gets everything on the walls and shelves rattling. Holy Crap!!
Yep, I'm happy....don't know about the neighbors though??

Sub on end showing internal bracing:
http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f138/technimac/Quatroonend.jpg

Installed in corner (getting a little corner and floor loading here) with BassShaker amp on right:
http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f138/technimac/Quatro15CornerSub-installedWeb1.jpg

Absolutely kickass job on the Quatro/240 corner sub technimac. I am impressed!

Get some wall mounts.

Blu-Tac.

Or, get some stands and mount the speakers in front of the racks. Might image a little better.

technimac, that looks outstanding, you really did a superb job :) Please, please, please don't take this the wrong way, but I have to wonder - you put all that work into the enclosure, why not go with something a little better than the Quatro? :confused:

That has to be the coolest-looking sub I have ever seen, technimac. The woodwork is flawless - look at the baseboard and corner reflections...

technimac,

Great job I would like to see a build thread on that. :D

~Bob

Thanks for all the compliments on this project. Your experiences, as detailed here have helped immensely
Steve, I've been reading about all the recent dual RLp-15 projects in the pipe and if I was planning to build a new sub today, that would probably be at the top of my list. If I sell this one, that'll probably be my next sub project. Thank you for doing a great job of evaluating the "sub-options" for the DIY community, and for folks like me your expertise and recommendations are invaluable.
But I bought the Quatro over a year ago, and the amp last December, so I was committed to doing this project. Sure, the DVC 15 / Bash 300 combo would probably have been a better choice, but I did learn a lot building this one.
For instance: raw heavy flaked oak veneer doesn't glue down well with the "iron-on" yellow glue method nor with solvent-based contact cement! :eek: The "flakes" tend to be thinner or "cupped" and as a result can have voids beneath them. Next time I'll try using either a vacuum bag (with veneer glue), or a veneer press (with polyurethane glue laid-on with a very-finely-notched trowel/spreader).
I had to use a syringe to inject PVA glue into the "flake-voids" then press them overnight - that took about 2 weeks. In the end, the "highly textured flakiness" of the oak helped to disguise any "glue-injection slits" I had to make in the veneer.

Close-up of finish shown in photo below. :p

Oh yes, it weighs in at 118#.

Cheers, Bruce

Did post pictures but webspace down.

Started this project a month ago and I am very pleased with the results.

PE 2.0cu^ft box
Dayton RSS315-HF 4 Driver
PE 500w BASH Plate Amp
Chrome Spike Feet
$550 total including shipping

http://img206.imageshack.us/img206/1952/subfront8sr.th.jpg (http://img206.imageshack.us/my.php?image=subfront8sr.jpg)

~Bob

Nice Bob. How did you attach the grille cloth to the frame? Looks very clean.

Maggie Guy, Nice job! Awesome speakers. I assume some of those are just PR's right??

Here is a photo of my completed Alpha LS project and one of my helpers.


Cool!

Another Adire Extremis fan I see.

You'll love my next post. Check out my ESL / Line array center.

Here is a two for one:

My 4x15” AV15 Infinite Baffle (full story and pics) (http://www.jonathanfoulkes.com/Home_Theater/Speakers/IBInstallStory.htm)

My brand spanking new SL3-eXtreeme Center channel (full story and Pics) (http://www.martinloganowners.com/~tdacquis/forum/showthread.php?t=2018)

BTW- the acoustically transparent screen is removed for this shot.


http://www.jonathanfoulkes.com/images/Final3QtrView_sml.JPG

Maggie Guy, Nice job! Awesome speakers. I assume some of those are just PR's right??

Thanks,
They are all active. Four ports on the back of each speaker. Here is some more information on the design.

http://www.gr-research.com/discontinued/alpha.htm

Here is a two for one:

My 4x15” AV15 Infinite Baffle (full story and pics) (http://www.mindspring.com/~jonfoulkes/IBInstallStory.htm)

My brand spanking new SL3-eXtreeme Center channel (full story and Pics) (http://www.martinloganowners.com/~tdacquis/forum/showthread.php?t=2018)

BTW- the acoustically transparent screen is removed for this shot.


http://www.mindspring.com/~jonfoulkes/images/Final3QtrView_sml.JPG

Schweet!!

Here is an HT mains set I just finished building. The angled back of the DLP TV served as inspiration in this design, and these are meant to be used with a separate subwoofer. Drivers are Vifa from PE. The finish is Rustoleum textured Black with the stripe being gloss Apple Red. The 3-way passive crossover is accessible and open to the rear, and venting for both the mids and the midbass is to the rear as well.

My latest addition: Dayton RS WTMW Center Channel


drivers: RS225's with the RS28 and RS150 (http://www.partsexpress.com)

design thread: Dayton RS WTMW center channel design (http://www.htguide.com/forum/showthread.php4?t=15323)

some pics...enjoy!

some construction..
http://thumb17.webshots.net/t/54/154/9/74/84/2786974840037002257HMvwBm_th.jpg (http://community.webshots.com/photo/2786974840037002257HMvwBm)http://thumb17.webshots.net/t/54/54/1/36/19/2972136190037002257xmGFju_th.jpg (http://community.webshots.com/photo/2972136190037002257xmGFju)http://thumb17.webshots.net/t/60/60/8/66/50/2827866500037002257zkEMPC_th.jpg (http://community.webshots.com/photo/2827866500037002257zkEMPC)http://thumb17.webshots.net/t/44/45/4/68/97/2799468970037002257vbrSgj_th.jpg (http://community.webshots.com/photo/2799468970037002257vbrSgj)http://thumb17.webshots.net/t/62/162/1/55/36/2082155360037002257JZoikW_th.jpg (http://community.webshots.com/photo/2082155360037002257JZoikW)

finished...
http://thumb17.webshots.net/t/54/54/6/97/28/2890697280037002257tySbnG_th.jpg (http://community.webshots.com/photo/2890697280037002257tySbnG)http://thumb17.webshots.net/t/61/61/7/99/42/2901799420037002257haDjWK_th.jpg (http://community.webshots.com/photo/2901799420037002257haDjWK)http://thumb17.webshots.net/t/59/159/5/15/95/2817515950037002257PTnLfK_th.jpg (http://community.webshots.com/photo/2817515950037002257PTnLfK)http://thumb17.webshots.net/t/59/159/3/24/51/2363324510037002257douYBd_th.jpg (http://community.webshots.com/photo/2363324510037002257douYBd)http://thumb17.webshots.net/t/38/38/0/36/3/2467036030037002257wxAFKO_th.jpg (http://community.webshots.com/photo/2467036030037002257wxAFKO)

many more pics and details in my sig link

stevdart, those are very nice - do you by any chance call them Black Widows?

Thanks and that's a good one, Steve. Just by chance I'm a "bug man" by trade so the name is entirely appropriate!

All of you that posted pictures have done a great job with the builds! I have one question. The ones that are using subs as "endtables" when they are powered up, with a can of soda or bottle of beer (my favorite). Does it walk across the top. I'm thining one day of doing a sub as and endtable.

All of you that posted pictures have done a great job with the builds! I have one question. The ones that are using subs as "endtables" when they are powered up, with a can of soda or bottle of beer (my favorite). Does it walk across the top. I'm thining one day of doing a sub as and endtable.

if its built correctly, the glass wont move. The only reason it would move is if the cabinet is flexing. My 220l Tempest that I built a couple years ago, you could place a dime on edge during the movie and it would barely vibrate....the enclosure was solid, but also weighed a ton as a result.

15" Tumult, sealed. It's at my mom's place where it has a plant on top, sometimes it has an oil lamp as well. Never any issues with walking or things falling off. Spiked to a hardwood floor.

http://www.eldamar.net/audio/graphics/tumult1.jpg

Double 18mm 13ply birch (so 36mm 26 ply). You can see one of my first ever builds behind it - ultra cheap, 'cause I was learning crossover design with them. Behind that is my IB manifold, but you can't see it of course.

My current cute little mains... available if anyone wants 'em.

http://www.eldamar.net/audio/rswwmtm/graphics/RS-WWMTM003.jpg

Family room "background music" units:

http://www.eldamar.net/audio/rs150mtm/graphics/mtmsFront.jpg

Next up is redoing my HT. But right now, it's building myself some amplifiers.

Fun stuff. :) The problem with enjoying the process of designing and tweaking crossovers is you're never done.

Will someone please sticky this thread.
cjd, I have two aluminum Dayton Da 175's lying around my house, what design do you suggest for these drivers? I've thought about maybe ordering two more going with a pair of sealed MTM mains for 2-channel.

Just finished up on something I started over a year ago.

Drivers are Scanspeak R2904 Ring Radiator tweeter, ATC 3" Dome ('Super' Version) mid and ATC 9" shortcoil bass. The design uses digital FIR linear phase crossover filters with full time/phase alignment and amplitude correction along with digital room correction via a DEQX. These speakers measure better than some amps :)

Outrageously good sounding and not half bad looks. My dream speakers are now complete.

http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2005-7/1050288/step5.jpg

http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2005-7/1050288/bassfin8.JPG

http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2005-7/1050288/bassfin9.JPG

http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2005-7/1050288/bassfin19.jpg

http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2005-7/1050288/bassfin21.jpg

http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2005-7/1050288/bassfin22.jpg

http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2005-7/1050288/bassfin23.jpg

http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2005-7/1050288/bassfin24.jpg

http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2005-7/1050288/bassfin26.jpg

Wow, those all look great :D

Just finished up on something I started over a year ago.

Drivers are Scanspeak R2904 Ring Radiator tweeter, ATC 3" Dome ('Super' Version) mid and ATC 9" shortcoil bass. The design uses digital FIR linear phase crossover filters with full time/phase alignment and amplitude correction along with digital room correction via a DEQX. These speakers measure better than some amps :)

Outrageously good sounding and not half bad looks. My dream speakers are now complete.



That is an amazing job finishing those! How did you get the silver glossy finish? Beautiful design and outrageous execution. You should be proud. :D I would love to see a construction thread all by itself about the building of it.

Chuck

That is an amazing job finishing those! How did you get the silver glossy finish? Beautiful design and outrageous execution. You should be proud. :D I would love to see a construction thread all by itself about the building of it.

Chuck

Hi Chuck, thanks for the kind words. The paint is automotive stuff and I used 2k laquer to acheive the gloss you see in the photo's.

If you interested, the construction thread is here:

http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=62391

Its a little long winded but there's some good info in there (most of it not from me ;)).

Just finished up on something I started over a year ago.

Drivers are Scanspeak R2904 Ring Radiator tweeter, ATC 3" Dome ('Super' Version) mid and ATC 9" shortcoil bass. The design uses digital FIR linear phase crossover filters with full time/phase alignment and amplitude correction along with digital room correction via a DEQX. These speakers measure better than some amps :)

Outrageously good sounding and not half bad looks. My dream speakers are now complete.

Wow those are a piece of art. Incredible. I'd never have the patience to do something like that so I got to respect someone who can.

Just finished up on something I started over a year ago...

Wow, those are just high tech looking... verry nice!

Here is my own unfinished SVS (dB12.2) metal-spiral-subwoofer. Maybe I paint it black?

http://www.dvdplaza.fi/galleria/data/504/medium/Spiraali1.JPG

http://www.dvdplaza.fi/galleria/data/504/medium/Spiraali2.JPG

http://www.dvdplaza.fi/galleria/data/504/medium/P_dyt_kiinnitetty.JPG

http://www.dvdplaza.fi/galleria/data/504/medium/Valmiina_kokoonpanoa_varten.JPG

http://www.dvdplaza.fi/galleria/data/504/medium/SVS.JPG

http://www.dvdplaza.fi/galleria/data/504/medium/Hypex.JPG

Some really good DIY work here, so why is this thread not a sticky yet?

Mark

Awesome sub Thuppu! :cool:

I've never seen anything like that. Nice job. What gave you the idea to go metal tube?

Wow, those are just high tech looking... verry nice!

Here is my own unfinished SVS (dB12.2) metal-spiral-subwoofer. Maybe I paint it black?

Nice work.

It reminds me of the Genelec subs.

Thanks.

Yes, the idea is from Genelec subs...

Here is a pair of pictures when it is almost finnished, in the living room. It's going to be a aluminium frame around the driver, but I haven't get it done yet. Maybe one day. :D

http://www.dvdplaza.fi/galleria/data/502/medium/Subi_paikallaan.JPG

http://www.dvdplaza.fi/galleria/data/502/medium/Subi_paikallaan2.JPG

Here is my outdoor 'Brute' sub...it's no looker but it resides under my deck out of sight but defintely not out of sound.

Here is my outdoor 'Brute' sub...it's no looker but it resides under my deck out of sight but definitely not out of sound.

that is crazy. do you take it indoors when it rains or is it weather proof? dose the "enclosure" flex much when its hitting hard?

nice metal work on the svs sub thuppu!

that is crazy. do you take it indoors when it rains or is it weather proof? dose the "enclosure" flex much when its hitting hard?

nice metal work on the svs sub thuppu!

No it is weather proof and stays outside....and no flexing under heavy load.

Yes, the idea is from Genelec subs...




Nice! Just like the Genelecs.

How did you model the dimensions of the spiral and opening?

A sonotube sealed sub would also make a nice Genelec lookalike.

Dr V

Nice! Just like the Genelecs.

How did you model the dimensions of the spiral and opening?

A sonotube sealed sub would also make a nice Genelec lookalike.

Dr V

The spiral is done with an plate mangler. The port openings is made by hard force, heating, bending, and welding.

Here is some new pictures... with aluminium frame... The aluminium needs only grinding and polishing.

http://www.dvdplaza.fi/galleria/data/504/medium/Alupaneeli1.JPG

http://www.dvdplaza.fi/galleria/data/504/medium/Alupaneeli2.JPG

http://www.dvdplaza.fi/galleria/data/504/medium/Alupaneeli3.JPG

Dude...it looks even more badass now.

Sweet!

That is so suh-weeeet ! I love it. Tha Sub is so sexy it has me envious....I'll get there some day....Wish me luck.

Dude...it looks even more badass now.

Sweet!
That is so suh-weeeet ! I love it. Tha Sub is so sexy it has me envious...
Thanks! Pleasant to hear that you guys like the look. :)



I'll get there some day....Wish me luck.
You are welcome. Watch out for polar bears and penguins. ;) :D

How did you model the dimensions of the spiral and opening?

Dr V



The spiral is done with an plate mangler. The port openings is made by hard force, heating, bending, and welding.



Actually I was interested how you calculated the port dimensions, length of the spiral, ect. Most modelling programs only calculate for cylindrical ports?

Great work... first DIY of its kind I have seen!

Dr V

Actually I was interested how you calculated the port dimensions, length of the spiral, ect. Most modelling programs only calculate for cylindrical ports?

Great work... first DIY of its kind I have seen!

Dr V

Ooh, my mistake. My english is bad... :o

It's calculated with a normal modelling program, called WinISD Pro (http://www.linearteam.dk/default.aspx?pageid=winisdpro). It's a normal Helmholtz tuning like most reflex port enclosures (tuning frequenze is ~18,5Hz), the port tube only circulate the enclosure. The port measures are not 100% exact so i put a few centimeters more length, plus the port roundings.


...and it sounds great! :)

Here are my DIY speakers, with curved surfaces:
http://www.stormpages.com/elfranche/

Here's mine!
Details HERE --> http://www.stormpages.com/elfranche/


All the details but how they sound!

I say they look fantastic, but how do they sound (besides enough bass to shake the walls!)?

As far as I'm concerned I say mission accomplished. =)
Undoubtedly my best pair so far. I used HiFi components and aimed for the flattest possible response curve. The overall sound has lots of presence and warmth. The detail is absolutely amazing. This is what strikes the most. I've had many friends over for a music session and they all found new details in their own music. Nothing else Ive heard comes close! That being said, I'd be curious to hear other DIY systems.

Here's mine!
Details HERE --> http://www.stormpages.com/elfranche/


very impressive effort and construction!

As far as I'm concerned I say mission accomplished. =)
Undoubtedly my best pair so far, all the while remaining a good bang for the buck. The overall sound has lots of presence and warmth. The sound definition is absolutely amazing. This is what strikes the most. I've had many friends over for a music session and they all found new details in their own music. Nothing Ive heard in any store comes close! That being said, I'd be very curious to hear other DIY systems..

The XT25/PL18 combo has been used by many DIYers in two-way systems with good results. So adding those big drivers made the speakers very complete.
The Dayton and passive effortlessly produce sounds I never heard before on a 3-way system (down to 20hz).

Just went through your entire build, very impressive!!

Thanks!

KLH AV5001 cabinets
Morel MDT-20 Tweeter
Morel MDM-55 Mid
Two LA 12 inch subs

I am getting rid of the tower cabinets in a week or so and building some satellites and 4 sub enclosures and reusing my current drivers.

Wow these are awesome!

My Natalie P's
http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a79/Amigo207/DSCN1232.jpg
http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a79/Amigo207/DSCN1303.jpg
http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a79/Amigo207/DSCN1454.jpg
http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a79/Amigo207/DSCN1456.jpg
Two MTMs each with his own hefty 7" driver makes for lots of effortless output down to 28hz in-room.

Total cost $460

i would like to know why my post was removed/deleted regarding this thread being stickied, since i never received a response through pm. integrity please.

I've just completed the Avalanche 15 sonotube powered by QSC RMX850 pro amp.

Price:
Sonotube + port = $69
MDF = $24
Paints = $12
Fiberglass = $12
Screws + Grill + Speaker terminals = $30
Spray adhesive = $9
Speaker Carpet = $30
Misc items = $20
Avalanche 15 driver = $200
QSC RMX850 pro amp (830W bridged) = $180
Labor = priceless
Total = ~$600

Design Thread: http://www.htguide.com/forum/showthread.php4?t=20374
Design: Ported Sonotube 300L (22" dia X 54.5" height) with port (6" dia x 28" length)

Below are pics and measurements:
http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2005-10/1092618/ava15sonotube004.jpg
http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2005-10/1092618/qscrmx850.jpg
http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2005-10/1092618/ava15withmainsandbfdfilters.jpg

Credit goes to Steve and Thomas and every else that help me. Thanks all. I'm extremely happy with the outcome. So far I haven't heard any distortion or bottom out yet. The Avalanche 15 is really a nice subwoofer with great SQ.

Below are a few pictures of my 2 main speakers, also DIY on the GR A/V-3 kit:
http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2005-10/1092618/av-3redoak03.JPG
http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2005-10/1092618/av-3redoak01.JPG
http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2005-10/1092618/av-3redoak04.JPG

Total price is about $550 with veneer and everything. Also, happy with the outcome. Great sound, nice and smooth...

Next project might be the center speaker... to be continued....

Al,

thank you.

Wackii,

Looks like a great job on the GR-Research A/V-3s... I was also looking at building those, and ironically, in that same finish! Can you give me more of your impressions of the sound and how well it integrates with your sub?

I plan to build a sealed 2 cu ft. 12" RSS HF sub, but I'm keen to get my MTMs going...

Thanks,
Peter

Peter,

These GR A/V-3 bass integrate really well with the sub. They plain right in. I have and still have the sealed DIY Tempest and now the Avalanche sonotube. Both of these subs and the A/V-3 integrate really well. I can't really tell if the bass is coming from the sub or the mains. About the sound, they really impress me with how clear, clean and detail the sound is. Especially on the female vocals. It really shine. Bass are tight and I believe these go down to the high 30s or low 40s. So you're probably not going to need a sub (music wise)unless you're a basshead like me:) I have a few friends that have Energy C-6(old glossy black model), Energy C-9, and the Paradigm Studio 60. They all prefer my GR A/V-3. And for $550, you can't beat it. Go for it. You won't regret it. Have fun...

Al,

Here is the bottom half of an 9 foot tall sono sub I am building.

http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b297/chasw98/Kimberley%20Sub/DSCN3831.jpg http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b297/chasw98/Kimberley%20Sub/DSCN3828.jpg

The top of it will have a "Greek Capitol" mounted around the port. Will post more when finished. The panels around the bottom will be routed out and grill cloth stretched over them.

Chuck

And here are my finished WWMT's with Dennis Murphy crossovers.

http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b297/chasw98/DSCN3784.jpg http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b297/chasw98/DSCN3783.jpghttp://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b297/chasw98/DSCN3785.jpg http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b297/chasw98/DSCN3790.jpg

Those never cease to amaze me. What was the total cost (not including your xover mishap)?

Those never cease to amaze me. What was the total cost (not including your xover mishap)?

With crossover screwup, veneer, MDF, drivers, etc. right around $700.00. That is probably on the high side because the crossover screwup cost me about $110.00 and I am pretty sure I spent under $600 for the rest of them. The veneer alone was $75 and that is not expensive veneer. But they sure sound fine especially with a new amp!

Chuck

Those look real good, nice work.

a steal at just $ 700 .

Design: Ported
Enclosure: ~3cuft w/ 3" precision port tuned to 25Hz (85L downfiring enclosure for Adire Shiva)
Driver: Ascendant Audio Atlas 12 (discontinued)
Amp: Rythmik Audio 250W (http://rythmikaudio.com/nonservo_product.htm#250basic)
Misc: 3" Precision Port (http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=268-350), Black Speaker Spikes (http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=240-715), Black Ash Laminte Vinyl (http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=260-012)

Total Cost: ~$350 + $15 for brad nailer and $70 for plunge router.

This is the second one im making. On the first one the legs were broken off (just glued on), horrible black spraypaint, and some of the cuts were off by 1/8" or more. I'm taking my time on this one and so far so good. Im trying to make it match the Athena AS-B1's and AS-C1 so black ash around the sides and silver in the front. Might buy a speaker grill for looks. Any ideas?

http://www.hostmypiconline.com/images/Photo-0046.jpg

http://www.hostmypiconline.com/images/Photo-0052.jpg

http://www.hostmypiconline.com/images/Photo-0051.jpg

Just finishing up on a sub project:

http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2005-7/1050288/20.jpg

http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2005-7/1050288/21.jpg

http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2005-7/1050288/22.jpg

http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2005-7/1050288/23.jpg

http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2005-7/1050288/24.jpg



A couple of shots of the driver:

http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2005-7/1050288/drivers2.jpg

http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2005-7/1050288/12.JPG



The sub will be paired with and finished to match the mains I built:

http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2005-7/1050288/bassfin19.jpg



And here's a CG rendering of the finished result:

http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2005-7/1050288/finaldes1.jpg

some really nice work here....makes me want to bust out the router and start something :)

Really nice work, I wish I could afford those Tweeters.

Beautiful work, guys. Shinobiwan, the detail of 12.JPG is incredible.

Thanks for the kind words guys.

Just finishing up on a sub project:
...

Great Job!

I like it when someone puts in the effort to make a Sub cabinet aesthetically match the mains.

Lovely mains as well.

I just finished this last week. Sounds great. I can't wait to build some fronts to match it and then veneer it.

Cabinet: 142L Shiva (22.5" cube), 3/4" MDF, lots of bracing, all biscuit joined
Driver: Dayton Reference 12" High Fidelity
Amp: 250W Sub Plate Amp from PE w/ Remote
Port: 4" diameter, 18" long
Total cost: ~$330

http://s100.photobucket.com/albums/m4/catacon/Subwoofer%20Project/

Catacon...is your sub tuned to ~18Hz? Thats what I figure, considering your enclosure volume/port length.

Did you leave out any damping material? Have you noticed any port noise?

Yeah, it's tuned to about 18hz. I didn't use any damping material and it seems fine without it, but I may try some to see if it makes it sound better. I haven't noticed any port noises, I guess the flaring helps with that. There isn't too much air moving through the port, even when it's up kind of loud, so that may be the reason.

Very cool. Sounds like a pretty good "budget" build.

I'm still only half way through my sub build-up, but I thought I'd go ahead and post a couple of pics. Keep in mind that these pics of the enclosure were taken right after I installed the driver for the first time. The box is unsanded and not cleaned up. I hope to put a finish on it within the next couple of weeks.

http://www.jimfancher.com/ht/images/sub40.jpg

http://www.jimfancher.com/ht/images/sub41.jpg



Design: Sealed
Enclosure: 20" wide x 26" high x 22" deep
Driver: Sound Splinter RL-P15 4ohm
Amp: Nady XA-1100 (2x475w @ 4 ohm)
EQ: Behringer 1124P (BFD) - Not used yet.
Total Cost: Haven't added it up yet.

Prior speaker/sub construction experance level( 1- 10): 0

Construction Thread with Photos (http://www.hometheatershack.com/forums/subwoofers/1096-diy-sealed-15-soundsplinter-rl-p15-subwoofer.html)


Summary:
Even in the Houston heat of the garage, I had a blast working on this. I took time off from working on the house just long enough to throw this together and plug it in. Now lets see if I have time to tweak it.

Again, awesome job Jim ;)

Awesome look there Jim! Congrats! :D

Thanks guys! I can't wait to start on my CC and Mains.

Hey all,

I finally got going on my DIY speakers, starting with my subwoofer.

Box design: Sealed 2 cu. ft. cube
Construction: 1" mdf walls; 18.5" exterior size; mitered edges all around.
Driver: Dayton RSS315HF-4 12" High Fidelity Subwoofer
Amp: Dayton HPSA500 500W subwoofer plate amplifier


Here's a couple pics:

http://www.visi.com/~pwwiebe/pics/box2.jpg

http://www.visi.com/~pwwiebe/pics/brace1.jpg

http://www.visi.com/~pwwiebe/pics/finishedsubbox4.jpg


I plan to veneer and finish shortly, once I decide on room colors. I'll either use maple veneer and stain with a dark wine red, or I'll use Ash veneer, and go black. Not sure yet.

Then I'm planning on building a set of GR-Research AV/3s, along with a center channel. Then a pair of surrounds... If I'm lucky, I'll finish it all by Christmas!

Also, I've attached a link to my build thread...check it out!

http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=83265

Thanks,
Choots

Looks good. How does she sound?

I've only got about 3or 4 hours listening on it total so far, but I am pretty impressed. It's more powerful than I would've expected, and it shakes the house more than I would've thought. I'm still planning on integrating it into the room using the Behringer FBQ2496 and some good measurements, but I've been pleasantly surprised at how good it sounds already.

Hopefully that means I don't have big room mode issues.

Note that if you read my build thread, I indicate I'd like to build two... with how good this sounds now, I'm carefully rethinking that, but I already have the other driver, so I might do it anyway.

It sounds tight and accurate, with very little boominess. I would also describe it as fast, and it's quite musical. I'm very happy that I went with this design; it's going to meet my needs very well.

Now I've just got to figure out what finish I want on it!

Choots

Here's some construction pics from my array (4) of Dayton 12" Titanic sealed subs, driven by 4 channels of Crown XLS-402 power through a BASSIS LT. These are 1.17cf enclosures made from heavy duty 16" sonotube.

Baffles in place ready for routing:
http://gallery.avsforum.com/data/507/medium/md_IMG_0939.JPG

http://gallery.avsforum.com/data/507/medium/md_IMG_0940.JPG

Top and bottom plates are made from those round pine blanks from HD:
http://gallery.avsforum.com/data/507/medium/md_IMG_0941.JPG

Legs installed and bottom plate test fit:
http://gallery.avsforum.com/data/507/medium/md_IMG_0942.JPG

Upper chamber created (for concrete):
http://gallery.avsforum.com/data/507/medium/md_IMG_0945.JPG

Concrete poured:
http://gallery.avsforum.com/data/507/medium/md_IMG_0950.JPG

Wrap applied (naugahyde) and top plate installed:
http://gallery.avsforum.com/data/507/medium/md_IMG_0958.JPG

concrete in a speaker box!

concrete in a speaker box!

I wanted to be sure I could use them as tables, and not have to worry about vibrating my Mountain Dew bottle off onto the floor :)

p.s. I'm glad I looked again at this post. I had erroneously linked the thumbnails. Now you should be able to see a little more detail.

My Finished Nat-Ps
http://img245.imageshack.us/img245/5397/1575782xb0.jpg
http://img82.imageshack.us/img82/930/1575785qy4.jpg
http://img170.imageshack.us/img170/8457/1575787ug2.jpg
http://img175.imageshack.us/img175/8315/1575789ga4.jpg
http://img170.imageshack.us/img170/9246/1575791ny3.jpg
http://img183.imageshack.us/img183/7124/1575792ef7.jpg
http://img183.imageshack.us/img183/2346/1575793ac5.jpg
http://img175.imageshack.us/img175/4601/1575794gu3.jpg
http://img175.imageshack.us/img175/9454/1575795xx4.jpg


And the build Thread: http://www.htguide.com/forum/showthread.php4?t=21373&page=1&pp=35

I'll echo what I said on HTGuide, those are absolutely beautiful!

Wow, if my Natalie P's came out half as nice as those i'd be a very happy man! Very nice work.

After building a pair of North Creek Music Vision Signatures and the 18” Leviathan subwoofer back in 1998, I finally finished the matching Vision Center. It only took me eight years. I have the Okara II Spirit kit I’ll use as the surrounds boxed up in the garage and hopefully they won’t take as long to complete.

http://www.pbase.com/georger/image/64794902.jpg
http://www.pbase.com/georger/image/66172340.jpg
http://www.pbase.com/georger/image/66724027.jpg
http://www.pbase.com/georger/image/66948225.jpg
http://www.pbase.com/georger/image/56272430.jpg
http://www.pbase.com/georger/image/56275568.jpg
http://www.pbase.com/georger/image/56628886.jpg
http://www.pbase.com/georger/image/66948930.jpg

Beautiful, and nice craftsmanship! Lovely roundover fronts.

Here's My Modula MTs:
http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d43/derekbannatyne/100_1281.jpg

Here's My Modula MTs:



Derek:
Don't you just love those speakers. They sound so good! Good work on the cabinets.

Chuck

Updated pic of my DIY meddling within the new room:

http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2005-7/1050288/room1.jpg

Yeah these speakers are really nice! I imagine they'll get even better as I don't have them set up properly yet, but how do these compare to your big TMWW towers?

Derek, those look outstanding...What kind of veneer is that? And, is it bare veneer or is it treated?

Finally got my TBFC/G version Modula MT's up and running. Heavy-flaked raw white oak veneer, teak gel stain, brushed satin Varathane Pro finish. Baffles are flat black marine enamel finished with sprayed oil-based clear Varathane Pro satin.

The sound...I'm very pleased with everything I've thrown at them so far. The only thing they don't like is badly recorded and produced material. I guess that's what I should expect with speakers as revealing as these.

I'm very, very happy with them!!

Thank you so much, Jon Marsh. You're the man!

http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f138/technimac/FinishedCenterModulaMTs042web.jpg

http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f138/technimac/FinishedCenterModulaMTs048web.jpg

Although I've had the parts for these for over two years, it's been hard to get them done. So this summer I piggy-backed the Modula MT project on this one and it worked out pretty well. Instead of cutting four baffles, I did nine...and so on. I'm very happy with these as well.
http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f138/technimac/FinishedAudaxCenterMTMs004web.jpg

http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f138/technimac/FinishedCenterModulaMTs016web.jpg

The center speaker is quite amazing in its ability to deliver dialogue as well as musical instruments and movie special-FX audio.
Full report is here:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=8551815&&#post8551815

Nice work!

Very, very nice. Do you have a more detailed description of exactly how you did the black painting and finishing?

Derek, those look outstanding...What kind of veneer is that? And, is it bare veneer or is it treated?

Hey thanks, I used some curly maple veneer I got off of Ebay and sprayed 2 coats of lacquer and a few coats of clear enamel on top of that.

My sonosub:
http://mywebpages.comcast.net/b.denham2/sonosub/sono2.jpg

Design Thread:http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=726584

Design: Vented, 6x27" port, tuned to ~14.5hz.
Enclosure: 24x48 sonotube. 1.5" thick mdf top cap + .75" outer panel, 1.5" mdf + .25" ply bottom cap + .75" outer panel. Driver is recessed in outer panel.
Driver: TC sounds TC2000 SVC
Amp: Buttkicker BKA1000
EQ: None
Fabric covering: Headliner material from JoAnn's fabric. 54" long by 3 yards total.
Total Cost: Approx. $800 for everything, including incidentals.
Prior speaker/sub building experience (0-10): 7, based on doing many car audio enclosures. This was my first home theater build and first sonotube build.


Summary: I am EXTREMELY happy with how the sub turned out, both aesthetically and how it sounds. Coming from the car audio background, im used to deep, loud, and clean bass. This sonosub is as close to that as I can imagine. This thing goes deep and loud and is very tight, not muddy. Building the sonosub design was not hard at all. I would do it again in a heartbeat.

Here is a shot of my subs and mains.
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c361/BowedToothDoc/5653273f.jpg

hey , this is amazing! just a qustion , how much did it cost you the two amazing towers?

i wanted to ask a thing, but with a diy subwoofer you can have a better subwoofer than the nb pb 10 SVS subwoofer at the same price? it's more convinient?can you indicate me some links where to build diy loudspeakers and subwoofer making me undestanding all this kind of stuff?

Dual sealed 15" RL-p 3.9 cu ft units with the BASSIS.

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y75/stevenn/100_0920.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y75/stevenn/100_1023.jpg

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

7.5 cu ft 15" RL-p tuned to 17 Hz. I still haven't done the finish job on this sub.

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y75/stevenn/100_1252.jpg

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Dual driver 15" RL-p - 21 cu ft BIG BLOCK LLT.

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y75/stevenn/100_1482.jpg

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
300 liter 15" RL-p LLT Sono. 52.5" tall 22" ID with 24.5" black gloss base and top caps.

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y75/stevenn/100_2772.jpg

I'll take the bottom one, thank you very much :D

I'll take the bottom one, thank you very much :D
Consider it done Mike. :)

this thread is such eye candy and great motivation,

keep up the good work guys!

Parboy, great job. You're an encouragement to all those wanting to build sonosubs.

Stevenn, I was wondering when you would post your projects here...finally...gosh :p

Stevenn, I was wondering when you would post your projects here...finally...gosh :p
Well!..ok so I'm a rebel :) I post so many pics I even embarrass myself. ;)

Rythmik Audio 12" DIY servo sub. We just put on some black formica as a finish since we just wanted something temporary at first since we thought we were going to use it in the theater.

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y22/crackyflipside/ht/IMAGE_00041.jpg

(Ugly picture, I know)

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y22/crackyflipside/ht/14hz-near-85db.jpg
Here's the nearfeild performance.



IB:
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y22/crackyflipside/ht/terror.jpg
Work in progress.

[Space reserved for upcoming 3 x Dayton RS TMWW w/ Seas tweeter]

[Space reserved for upcoming 4 x Modula MT w/ Seas tweeter]

Did you guys use caulk to seal up where the edges of your subwoofer box meet? Or do you just use glue?

Did you guys use caulk to seal up where the edges of your subwoofer box meet? Or do you just use glue?

You can, most do.

I used fiberglass resin since it's less messy and easier to apply.

Did you guys use caulk to seal up where the edges of your subwoofer box meet? Or do you just use glue?

I used white GE Silicone Caulk. Had some laying around the house at the time...and it was pretty easy to spread accross the seams inside of my box and has worked excellently over the past 6 months...no leaks. I wouldn't recommend clear caulking though, might be hard to see.

Here are some pics of my TC2000 in a 300L enclosure. I'm going to be painting the inside of the port black so it will clean up a bit.

One more pic of the rear.

Great looking sub.Definately hi WAF with that cabinet.

That looks absolutely fantastic Skiier!

Thanks WillD - LOTS of time in that thing :) - I'm ecstatic about how it turned out both aesthetically and acoustically.

Great looking sub.Definately hi WAF with that cabinet.

Haha - sort of! She likes the cabinet alright and thinks it looks great. However, she can't stand the size.

Here are some pics of my TC2000 in a 300L enclosure.
Now that is a build job to be proud of. Very nice!! absolutely beautiful.

skiier, beautiful...great job man...

If the wife is not happy with one (size), get another one :) I know she will get use to them...

Al,

Wow, those are just high tech looking... verry nice!
Here is my own unfinished SVS (dB12.2) metal-spiral-subwoofer. Maybe I paint it black?


Nice metal work!

Nice metal work!

Thanks! Have been really satisfied with it... :)


All DIY work here is really nice.

http://apocalypse805.tripod.com/HTpics/

Here are a few pics of the audax project I completed a year and a half ago. You can also see some holes in the floor in the first pic that lead to the dual manifolds that hold 4 IB-15s in an infinite baffle design.

Thanks to some helpful folks at avs and the "cult" I was able to make it successfully through my first diy speaker project without any regrets whatsoever. It's not very often that a day goes by that I don't listen to and enjoy the fruits of my labor.

so here's a pic of my (mostly) complete chaise lounge/sub.

I chose to make a chaise lounge because I knew my wife would not look with favor on a big black tube in the corner. my daughter and I picked the fabric together, and it really works with the rest of our furniture. my wife is very happy, wants me to make another one...

it really sounds fantastic, although I need to get a better sub cable since the supercheep leftover RCA I'm using is introducing a bit of a ground loop hum when there is no LFE signal.

the only things left to do are glue up some (minor)trim pieces and stain the red oak.
the upholstery is completely removable to allow that to happen (and also if we ruin it or decide to change it).

also, in the foreground is one of the speaker stands I made at the same time..

http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q189/baggins_69/DSCN1683.jpg

the construction thread for the sub is here:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=741638

for those who don't want to read all through the thread, it's a Mach5 12" driver (DVC in series 8ohm), Rythmik 250 amp, ~136.6 Liters net tuned to ~17hz with a 21"x4"diameter unflared vent.

total cost, all in, under $350, and about 20 hours.

I never would/could have done it without this board...

the rest of the photo album is here:
http://s136.photobucket.com/albums/q189/baggins_69/

Build based on the most balanced optimized design of 320 effective liters (340 gross) with a 6” x 27" long port to give a 14.5 Hz tune with a TC2000-15 SVC.

See my signature for design thread.

http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h69/ecir38/LLT/31.jpg

http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h69/ecir38/LLT/37.jpg

http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h69/ecir38/LLT/38.jpg

http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h69/ecir38/LLT/39.jpg

BR

I decided to make a new sub to replace one or both of my Titanic 1000 kits. My original plans were to use both of the 10" Titanic drivers in one box, but that was scrapped when I found out (after I already built most of the box and cut holes) that the two kits used different drivers (ordered them months apart from each other and the drivers were changed in between). So, instead, I ended up buying a Dayton 12" Titanic MKIII driver and using the same box size (4 cu ft) and dual 4" ports. I still need to buy a new sub amp to drive it (looking at the www.oaudio.com amp) since the amp I am using is a Titanic 1000 kit amp which has a bump at around 30hz, which I need to get rid of. The specs look really good for a flat response and good output with this combination.

I wanted it to blend in with the surrounding area, so this is what it ended up looking like:
http://www.vonhofs.com/sub/single_sub_34_sm.jpg
http://www.vonhofs.com/sub/single_sub_32_sm.jpg

and here is how it progressed to get to that:
http://www.vonhofs.com/sub/titanic_12.jpg
The chart above shows the white line as a single 12" Titanic MKIII driver and the blue shows two 10" Titanic MKII drivers (I would have to find a second MKII driver, since I only have one). The response curve is very good and the SPL levels are pretty close as well.

http://www.vonhofs.com/sub/single_sub_07_sm.jpg
http://www.vonhofs.com/sub/single_sub_12_sm.jpg
http://www.vonhofs.com/sub/single_sub_12_sm.jpg
http://www.vonhofs.com/sub/single_sub_20_sm.jpg
http://www.vonhofs.com/sub/single_sub_26_sm.jpg

I just read the entire thread. You guys did some incredible work. You should all be so proud of the hard work and skill involved in building something as beautiful as the stuff I have seen on this thread!

Have a great Holiday!
Jeff

Here's a pair of speakers I made a year or two ago. They use full range Fostex drivers.

Building these speakers got me into woodworking. I am now building a CNC router with which I can make more speakers. I can see it now... "Why dear, of course we need a set of hall speakers..." :)

Ha seriously, I may make a pair of line arrays for the theatre room though.


http://i14.tinypic.com/2usznf9.jpg

Semisentient,

Are you building your CNC router from available plans, if so , where would I find them. By the way, those are interesting speakers, how do they sound?

Ed

Semisentient, I have not seen anything done with full range speakers in a while now (not watching all the DIY speaker threads). I assume those are transmission line speakers? Can you give everyone more information on the drivers as well as the expected frequency response in your design?

Semisentient,

Are you building your CNC router from available plans, if so , where would I find them. By the way, those are interesting speakers, how do they sound?

Ed

No, I'm basing the CNC on various other designs. It's going to have a usable 2' x 4' x 8".

The speakers are called Zigmahornets, which are popular on some of the full range driver forums. They do great at what full range speakers are strong in such as separation, detail, soundstage etc. They are only 4" drivers so bass isn't huge. I mostly picked this design for looks as they were being used in our living room for non-critical listening. I drive them with a digital T-amp.

Semisentient, I have not seen anything done with full range speakers in a while now (not watching all the DIY speaker threads). I assume those are transmission line speakers? Can you give everyone more information on the drivers as well as the expected frequency response in your design?

The drivers are Fostex 103FE's. Google "Zigmahornet" and you will find a fair amount of info on these speakers. It's been a while and I can't really remember all that stuff. :)

One of my DIY speakers;

http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e55/pomeroy/F00117.jpg

More here...

http://gallery.audioreview.com/showgallery.php?cat=500&ppuser=246853

sgtreese, nice gallery looks great.

Just finished the main work on my new sub. My first DIY HT sub. Lots of experience in the 12v world, but haven't really done much in house.

Not quite finished, but pretty close. The dude at home depot sure made the project a lot easier by doing ALL of my cuts for me on their big saw gadget...

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f317/damontmorris/IMG_1999.jpg
http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f317/damontmorris/IMG_1998.jpg

She still needs some work, but she's getting there. I brought it upstairs to let it sit while the glue dries, then I need to decide on a finish for it.

The sub was one I've had sitting around for a while, but it's never been used. It's an Elemental Designs 13Kv2.

The amp is one I bought from my cousin (actually, borrowed it, since I need to buy him another one ASAP...;)

The box..well, it's designed a little big to reach full excursion on the 240 watts available.

Now I just have to wait for the dang glue to dry before I can start playing with it. :(

Just finished the main work on my new sub. My first DIY HT sub. Lots of experience in the 12v world, but haven't really done much in house.

Not quite finished, but pretty close. The dude at home depot sure made the project a lot easier by doing ALL of my cuts for me on their big saw gadget...

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f317/damontmorris/IMG_1999.jpg
http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f317/damontmorris/IMG_1998.jpg

She still needs some work, but she's getting there. I brought it upstairs to let it sit while the glue dries, then I need to decide on a finish for it.

The sub was one I've had sitting around for a while, but it's never been used. It's an Elemental Designs 13Kv2.

The amp is one I bought from my cousin (actually, borrowed it, since I need to buy him another one ASAP...;)

The box..well, it's designed a little big to reach full excursion on the 240 watts available.

Now I just have to wait for the dang glue to dry before I can start playing with it. :(I read somewhere that you should let everything (caulk, glue) dry before you put the driver in. Apparently fumes from caulk/glue can damage the driver.

I read somewhere that you should let everything (caulk, glue) dry before you put the driver in. Apparently fumes from caulk/glue can damage the driver.

Poppycock.

I read somewhere that you should let everything (caulk, glue) dry before you put the driver in. Apparently fumes from caulk/glue can damage the driver.

I wouldn't agree with that either. If you let it all dry and then install the driver and pull it out after a week or a month or a year, it's still gonna smell inside the cabinet (unless it's a ported design), but there is nothing wrong with that. The fumes, unless radioactive, won't do anything.

I wouldn't agree with that either. If you let it all dry and then install the driver and pull it out after a week or a month or a year, it's still gonna smell inside the cabinet (unless it's a ported design), but there is nothing wrong with that. The fumes, unless radioactive, won't do anything.First of all... radioactivity doesn't necisarrily decay things other than itself. But silicone releases corrosive gasses. Over a course of several years it can deteriorate the driver. This is why on the tube of silicone it says it may make you irritable and such; these gasses are poisonous but relatively harmless due to it's small emission. But you clam this up in a sealed box and left at it for a couple of years and it can cause damage.

Mostly Likely, though, it won't cause to much trouble. From what I hear the drivers these days are more resilient. ;)

Just thought I would share a pic of my new surround back channel that I just built. It's modeled after the athena AS-R1.2, but uses the audax drivers that I used in the rest of my system. I took the photo next to one of the main channel speakers so that those of you with audax kits can reference it's relative size. I still don't have the xovers built yet, and can't wait either... I really want to hear what my system will sound like in 6.1 instead of 5.1.

Duane

Here is a small (125 L) sonosub I built for my brother on the cheap. I think the whole project (not just driver and amp) cost about $130. Sounds decent though. Height (with legs) is 4' and it's 16" diameter.

Here is a small (125 L) sonosub I built for my brother on the cheap. I think the whole project (not just driver and amp) cost about $130.


What driver/plate amp combo did you use? Port tuning frequency?

Looks good, and I would like to have some really cheap options available for friends.

Thanks!

What driver/plate amp combo did you use? Port tuning frequency?

Looks good, and I would like to have some really cheap options available for friends.

Thanks!

It's all here (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=787580). I just fed it some BB King and Rammstein - it sounded real good, tight and musical.

Here are some pics of my finished Natalie P. For a little more detail on the build see my signature below.
http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h69/ecir38/Natilie%20P/16.jpg
http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h69/ecir38/Natilie%20P/18.jpg

How much did Coca Cola pay you for the product placement in that first pic? :)

Here's my latest sub. It's a Dayton DVC12 with 500W amp. The box size is about 14" cubed. It's 3/4" MDF with maple veneer and walnut corner accents.

http://img71.imageshack.us/img71/2369/dcp0889ll8.jpg

Testing is ongoing. I originally designed it as an "apartment sub", i.e. something that would get down low (with some boundary loading), but not get you in to (too much) trouble with the neighbors. The problem is, when I started it I lived in an apartment, but when I finished it I lived in a house. Doh! :)

Here are a couple pics of my diy SVS (12.2) 20-39 clones. They are located in each front corner behind mains. Tuned to 20hz and powered by Samson SX1200, 450x2@4ohms. I've had peaks of 114db at listening position 11ft away in my 1800cuft room. Lots of work but worth it.

I've been living in a small apartment which won't fit my projector+Orions, and decided to build a pair of Linkwitz Plutos which suit the small space and are easier to move. Finally finished a couple weeks ago

http://www.village.org/villagers/drew/images/pluto/small/plutos.jpg
http://www.village.org/villagers/drew/images/pluto/medium/pluto.jpg
http://www.village.org/villagers/drew/images/pluto/small/02_one_board.jpg

I've been living in a small apartment which won't fit my projector+Orions, and decided to build a pair of Linkwitz Plutos which suit the small space and are easier to move. Finally finished a couple weeks ago


Drew, you have to give some more info on these! They are kinda cook, funky, industrial all at the same time!

Drew, you have to give some more info on these! They are kinda cook, funky, industrial all at the same time!

http://www.linkwitzlab.com/Pluto/intro.htm

http://www.linkwitzlab.com/Pluto/intro.htm

As expected, Herr Doktor Linkwitz did some solid engineering here.

The Plutos have a 5.25" Peerless woofer and 1.7" Aura Whisper (open back) in ABS pipes for minimum enclosure flex and ease of construction. Baffle step is at 3KHz so they're mostly omni-directional. The pipes form damped transmission lines so the back wave is not radiated through the drivers with the woofer having a 40dB return loss (99%). They are actively bi-amplified.

The electronics are mounted in the bases with each board incorporating an active cross-over (LR4 @ 1KHz) with time alignment (physical alignment of acoustic centers caused audible reflection problems in prototypes), woofer equalization to F0=60Hz Q0=.75 with second order roll-off below, notches for both drivers, 150W peak woofer amp (bridged), and 50W peak tweeter amp (It's music with a 10dB crest factor, so the 50VA transformer and 4 degree C/W heat sinks are OK). No-load voltage is +/- 35 VDC unregulated and +/-15 VDC regulated for the op-amp rails. Power amplifiers are LM3886. The low signal levels and high impedances involved with active cross-overs mean 1% resistors and 2% capacitors are affordable (inductors are not needed).

They're very good. Neutral. Precise imaging. They lack the Orions' bass extension, the final bit of transparency, and output capability; although one would hope that 4X the cost and 2-3X the effort gets you something. Pluto+ allegedly does wonders for extension and cleans them up at higher output levels. I've stuffed the cross-over boards but need to test and build enclosures.

http://www.village.org/villagers/drew/images/pluto/small/05_pluto+_one_board.jpg

I guess I'll throw my hat in this ring with a pic of my "built-in" box sub. 4 Fi Q18s driven by an EP2500 bridged into 4ohms. Not nearly as pretty as most of what you guys build (its hidden completely when the room is put together properly) but it gets the job done.

http://www.reedsplace.com/Theater/wooferswired.jpg

Finally got mine finished.

http://i163.photobucket.com/albums/t314/natural47/subwoofer/pic8002.jpg

Finally got mine finished.


Any more info? Pics? What type of veneer is that? It's crazy!

Zebrawood SVonhof.

My threads on this link.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=801184

Some 6 1/2" open baffle speakers I built as an experiment in both open baffles and crossover design.

Some 6 1/2" open baffle speakers I built as an experiment in both open baffles and crossover design.
That's cool, do you have any more info?

That's cool, do you have any more info?

Sure. I started a thread about them here (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=9821302#post9821302).

built this nightstand sub for my daughter.
parameters were cheap, durable (she goes to college in 2 yrs), useful as furniture (can't waste space in her room or in a future dorm room), decent sound.

I bought the EQHS-12 from $25 ($35 delivered) from elemental designs,
Rythmik's 150W plate amp with no bass boost for $80 delivered
used a 3" precision port

painted it matte black and put plastic corner protectors on the bottom corner.

still have to attach the grille (PE 15" round metal grille) as soon as my daughter decides on a color.

sounds pretty good, and is a tremendous improvment vs. her cheapo KLH bookshelf speakers alone.

the graphs below are for response of the EQHS-12 @ 150W in 3.5 ft^3
I built ~23Hz tune

http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q189/baggins_69/megsub.jpg
http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q189/baggins_69/eqhs-12.jpg

Okay, here's my sub project I recently finished (well it's still missing the Linkwitz Transform and proper EQing, and possibly grilles but anyway)...

It's a sealed box with two Carpower Sonic 12" subs, the elements are on opposite sides of the box, these are actually designed for cars but work quite well in HT as well.

The box is about 90 liters internal volume (3,2 cubic feet), and the outer dimemsions are 48x48x60cm (19" x 19" x 2 feet). The sub weighs in at about 70-75 kg (155-165 pounds). Driven with 2 kilowatts of raw PA-power...

Here's an image:

http://gallery.kuutio.org/d/7973-2/IMG_2870.jpg

Wow, nice job! That is a beautiful enclosure.

http://gallery.kuutio.org/d/7973-2/IMG_2870.jpg

Funny thing is, for some reason I already knew you were from somewhere in Europe without even looking at your location! For some reason, you don't see enclosures like that in the U.S. very often. I like the finish, it looks like it is soft, but very hard at the same time. Soft as in slightly rounded corners, but perfect lines on the cabinet and hard as in it seems like a hard-candy shell on the outside of your box. Something isn't paint and laquer, but more of an epoxy type poured on finish.

Any info on how you got that finish?

Thanks guys :)

The box is made out of 30mm (1 1/5 inch) MDF, there's a cross brace of the same stuff inside and the ends are 60mm. Excessive yes. :cool: The box is first prepared with 2 component filler, all the corners routed, primer paint, then glossy white and last glossy lacquer. All from spray cans actually, I went through about a dozen cans...

It actually looks better than it really is, if you look at the surface in the right light you can see all the imperfections. ;)

I may repaint the box a year or two later when the wood has had some time to settle...

Nice work shr-t! Still the "jumppakuutio" looks nice. :)

So to get that finish you used bondo on top of MDF? I would like to do a small sub upstairs in a high gloss piano black. The ones for the theater will be just plain Jane's, since they will be behind the screen.

Hmm... "Bondo is a two-part putty used to fix dents in cars, created by Bondo Corporation. While the term "Bondo" is a brand name for this company's product, it is commonly used in the U.S. as a genericized trademark to refer to all auto-repair putties or so-called plastic body fillers."
Yeah, that's what I used :)

To get a piano finish you need to make the surface really smooth, it's a pain in the ***...

Here's the results of my 3 years of DIY labour :


www.gattiweb.com

http://www.gattiweb.com/images/delta_mkII/deltaMkII%2BSamson%2BLeeloo.jpg

Nice setup Scanspeak.

Bet they sound awesome too!

impressive work scanspeak! well done!! :)

my twin tower subs:

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f38/ssabripo/DIY%20Ava18%20subs/ava18subs001.jpg
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f38/ssabripo/AVA18%20measurements/1steq_try.jpg

design thread: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=756408

That is one radical setup! Nice room for HT.

On word...SUH-WEET !!!!! All I could think to myself is "My wife would kell me if I did something like that....It's lovel y man, tear jerking at best...

Adds new meaning to "Rock your world" 4 sure!

My 21" sealed cube with 18" TC Sounds LMS-5400:

Finished and in its home:
http://www.whsd.org/users/jpm/sub/p1010040.jpg
http://www.whsd.org/users/jpm/sub/p1010041.jpg

Build thread:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=816576

Nice work Joe! That monster won't put stress cracks in that concrete wall will it? Mine claimed a lamp yesterday after shaking it off a side table. :D