I've been very skeptical as well, because of the low price. I e-mailed them a couple times to find out what cable they use, and it's a "no name" brand.
All of my cables until now have been from Blue Jeans Cable and the Belden wire. I've been very staisfied with them.

I decided to order some monoprice cables because there are a lot of posts in this forum and others that say they are good. My HDMI length is 6 ft and the Components are 15 Ft, so not very long distances, so I figured I'd give them a try. The monoprice was about $80 and the Blue Jeans price was over $200 for the same cables.

when you say "the same cables", do you mean they're exactly the same, ginigma?

I'm about to purchase a new projector and I want to be prepared for the when I finally buy an HD-DVD or Blu-Ray player, so I'm going to buy an HDMI--->DVI cable. I might be able to go with 35ft., but 50ft. would be long enough for sure. Should I just assume I need the thickest guage wire at Monoprice (22AWG)? Do I need that much?

I'll have to remeasure to see if I can get away with 35ft. For some reason I bought a 50ft. VGA-->component cable when I had an Infocus X1 and I remember being glad I did. Although I don't specifically remember why? I'm sure I want the shortest cable I can use, correct?

Thanks guys,
George


Please help someone new to buying cables.

Please help someone new to buying cables.


if your positive what length you need AND you can find it at that length, then buy it, geocab.

if your not sure, play it safe and go with the 50 footer.

lol, no. he means they were "too good to be true", they weren't good after all.

no surprise here, not at all. :rolleyes:
Not sure what your issue is. Maybe you should try them out before bagging on them. It is really difficult to get so many people on AVS saying the cables are great if they are really crap. Almost everyone who tries them says they work great and the only people who say they are cheap quality are the ones who have never tried them.

Not sure what your issue is. Maybe you should try them out before bagging on them. It is really difficult to get so many people on AVS saying the cables are great if they are really crap. Almost everyone who tries them says they work great and the only people who say they are cheap quality are the ones who have never tried them.

hey buddy, if you don't like what i have to say, don't read it.

if your still here, i'm sure they're fine, for the money.

i'm willing to bet whatever you can afford that they don't measure up to high quality cables though, like ultralink.

when you say "the same cables", do you mean they're exactly the same, ginigma?
No, of course not. The Blue Jeans cables are made with Belden cable and Canare connectors. The monoprice cables are no name cable. I figured for the short lengths I would give them a try because most "reviews" on avs indicate good quality, both in the cables and PQ.

I have a 6ft HDMI cable and a 6ft Component-VGA cable, both from Monoprice. Both work fantastic.

hey buddy, if you don't like what i have to say, don't read it.

if your still here, i'm sure they're fine, for the money.

i'm willing to bet whatever you can afford that they don't measure up to high quality cables though, like ultralink.


Man, you need to have a drink or something and calm down a little. You blast someones post and it's fine, someone blasts your post and you go ape sh*t!

If you can afford to spend alot on cables good for you. Some people prefer to spend a little less and do something relaxing. This might be something for you to look into.......just my .02!!

CHEERS,
Russ

I want to determine whether my picture looks better through an HDMI/DVI connection or the component connection, from my Dish 622 HD DVR to my Hitachi 50v500 50" tv. Is there a way to connect both cables and view/compare the associated pictures at the same time, maybe using PIP feature on my tv? I think that will work as long as I use video 1 and video 2 separately on my television. But, does the video source allow both outputs to be connected and sending a video signal at the same time?

Man, you need to have a drink or something and calm down a little. You blast someones post and it's fine, someone blasts your post and you go ape sh*t!

If you can afford to spend alot on cables good for you. Some people prefer to spend a little less and do something relaxing. This might be something for you to look into.......just my .02!!

CHEERS,
Russ

that's complete bullschit, russ, i didn't "blast anyone's post". :rolleyes:

CHEERS,
joe

I want to determine whether my picture looks better through an HDMI/DVI connection or the component connection, from my Dish 622 HD DVR to my Hitachi 50v500 50" tv. Is there a way to connect both cables and view/compare the associated pictures at the same time, maybe using PIP feature on my tv? I think that will work as long as I use video 1 and video 2 separately on my television. But, does the video source allow both outputs to be connected and sending a video signal at the same time?

only if your stb can output 2 singals at the same time, ekalbs4.

most of them can't but i don't know about yours.

Anyone know of a site that charts the strengths and weaknesses of various component cables, or which describes the characteristic color renderings of various component cables?

We recently brought home our new TV, and have we have been using s-video cable with the DVD, until we could get to the store to get component cables.

Using s-video, the static images were smooth and color rendering was gorgeous. It was in movement that we saw problems: very large, obvious checkerboard patterning in areas of movement. I wondered if our scaler quality was just for crap, but I knew we needed to get proper cables before freaking out and returning the TV.

We got some Philips component cables (the cheapest ones at Fry's, because I didn't realize how these things change in quality, and was being stubborn :o ) ...

We noticed a BIG difference. The checkerboarding was gone, which was nice. However, the more static parts of the image, which had been so smooth and beautiful with s-video, were not quite as nice, and my main complaint is that the color was compromised (washed out with a perceptible green cast). I confirmed this by plugging the s-video back in and voila, the color was great again.

So. I now see that component cables are vital for rendering, but I need my beautiful color and the smoothness in static areas ... I'm guessing that different component cables give different results (not just "good" or "bad"), and I'm wondering about a multi-characteristic comparison.

Oh, and while I'm not going to foolishly throw my money away, I'm not looking for a deal, I'm looking for quality. After all, I just dropped nearly $2K on a TV, I'm not going to screw around with making it perform as best it can.

I appreciate any references you can point me to.

hey buddy, if you don't like what i have to say, don't read it.

Likewise.

I've found these two very helpful articles on component cables ... the second of which forces one to wade through a lot of EE info, but still gets the point across of what to look for.

Of course, this doesn't suggest typical rendering results from varying cables, but I gather that's not a possible comparison, since you can't control and make all other elements be equal.

I'm sure a lot of you have seen these, but for someone like me searching for info on this matter, it might be helpful.

Edit:
Jesus Christmas, they won't let me post the links because I haven't posted here 5 times. Whatever. One is at ecoustics (done by Blue Jeans), and the other is at audioholics. I believe I arrived at them by searching for, "component cable guide" (which I had done before I posted my initial request, but I was looking for a different kind of guide at the time).

Ha ha, I love how they say, "To prevent the abuse of spam, we have set this restriction ..." Funny, but I would have thought they'd LOVE to abuse spam. I know I would. In all seriousness, I do understand the restriction. It's just frustrating.

Are these the ones?

Component Video Cables -- A Guide (http://forum.ecoustics.com/bbs/messages/34579/123129.html)
Component Video Cables - The Definitive Guide (http://www.audioholics.com/techtips/audioprinciples/interconnects/ComponentVideoCables.php)

BTW - Welcome to AVS!

Ok, dumb n00b question.

Looking at an up-converting DVD player that has HDMI output. (LG LDA-511 or nueneo)

Is it possible to connect this player to the DVI port on a new Westinghouse 37 or 42 LCD at either 720p or 1080i output with any of the HDMI -> DVI adaptors on the market? Concerned about the player not supporting the higher res if not directly connected to the Westy HDMI...


thanks


jwd

I've ordered cables from HDTVsupply.com. They're fast, tested, and very reasonably priced.

www.hdtvsupply.com

I've ordered cables from HDTVsupply.com. They're fast, tested, and very reasonably priced.

www.hdtvsupply.com
Looks to be the exact same cable as Monoprice, right down to the "net jacket", but priced 2.5-3 times as much.

interesting. I guess you pay extra for the "testing" that they do to confirm peformance...

Need some advise...

Have a DVI-I connection on my computer and want to hook up to my JVC 26" LCD which only has HDMI connection. What is my best way to connect? HDMI cable with a DVI-I adapter? Or the other way around?

I also thought DVI-I only carried video, so would I have to run audio cables too?

Where is the best priced place to purchase?

Thanks

interesting. I guess you pay extra for the "testing" that they do to confirm peformance...
BTW what testing data did you receive with your cables? I looked at the website description and it seemed the information is either incorrect or not up to date:

http://www.hdtvsupply.com/howwetest.html

They say they test to 37MHz, but HDMI/DVI uses 74.25MHz for 720p/1080i and it uses 148.5MHz for 1080p. It would seem 37MHz testing is not very useful. Later on in the descriptin they mention HDCP testing, so they must be at least partially referring to digital connection testing, just the MHz they test doesn't make sense.

Also the most important test for digital cables, Silicon Image "Eye Diagram" is not listed.

Need some advise...

Have a DVI-I connection on my computer and want to hook up to my JVC 26" LCD which only has HDMI connection. What is my best way to connect? HDMI cable with a DVI-I adapter? Or the other way around?

I also thought DVI-I only carried video, so would I have to run audio cables too?

Where is the best priced place to purchase?

Thanks
I suggest you get a real DVI-D->HDMI cable without using any adapters. The adapter can work ok, but is sometimes the cause of sparkles.

If your source is DVI, as it most likely is with PC, then you will not get any audio over the connection.

Be aware that your TV's HDMI connection most likely only supports 480p/720p/1080i, so it is likely you will not get dot by dot pixel mapping. Also it is likely your display overscans the HDMI input, so the edges of your desktop may not be visible. Some video cards can compensate for that by shrinking the desktop, but your picture will never be as sharp as with PC LCD monitor using DVI connection.

I suggest you get the cables from Monoprice. Great quality, great price, fast shipping, excellent customer service.

The cables you want are here:
http://www.monoprice.com/products/subdepartment.asp?c_id=102&cp_id=10231&style=

Under 15ft, I suggest the 28AWG cables. Over 15ft, go with the 24AWG.

well, you obviously know alot more than I do, and I appreciate your knowledge. I guess I'll be shopping monoprice in the future!



BTW what testing data did you receive with your cables? I looked at the website description and it seemed the information is either incorrect or not up to date:

http://www.hdtvsupply.com/howwetest.html

They say they test to 37MHz, but HDMI/DVI uses 74.25MHz for 720p/1080i and it uses 148.5MHz for 1080p. It would seem 37MHz testing is not very useful. Later on in the descriptin they mention HDCP testing, so they must be at least partially referring to digital connection testing, just the MHz they test doesn't make sense.

Also the most important test for digital cables, Silicon Image "Eye Diagram" is not listed.

What is the difference in these two switchers? Also, the second one says it has auto-switching. Can you disable this and switch between the outputs manually?

HDMI Switch - Manual (http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=101&cp_id=10110&cs_id=1011001&p_id=2786&style=&seq=1&format=1#largeimage)
HDMI Switch - Auto (http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=101&cp_id=10110&cs_id=1011002&p_id=2778&seq=1&format=2&style=)---What is the built-in equalizer?


Has anyone used either one of these? Will they lower the quality of your signal or anything?

I've used both of them.

The 2x1 manual push button type is a simple device that gets the job done. It works great at 1080p 60Hz with HDCP up to the 35ft cables I tested. With 50ft cables, I got sparkles at 1080p, but it worked fine at 720p/1080i up to and including 50ft. The beauty of this device is the simplicity of design. It probably is one of the most compatible of all the switchers I've tried because it is completely passive. Switching from input #1 to input #2 is the same as unplugging the HDMI cable from your device and plugging it into the second device. If something doesn't work with this switch, then it wouldn't have worked if you unplugged the cable by hand, so basically if it doesn't work, it is a problem with the source or sink device, not the switch.

The 5x1 is also a very good switch. I tested it extensively and the video quality is always excellent. I've tested 1080p @ 60Hz with HDCP with 50ft HDMI cables and had no sparkles at all. The "equalizer" function they mention is an "eye opener" function which cleans up the TMDS signal so it can be transmitted over longer distances without errors. Think of it as a builtin amplifier, but it works using a different mechanism. It also has 2 ways to switch devices. Either you can have the device detect the active signal and switch to it, or you can use the discrete input select on the remote control. The remote has buttons 1-5 which allow you to select which input you want without needing to cycle through them all.

I reviewed the 5x1 switcher here:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=640183

My best advice, if you just need a simple switch and will be sitting close enough to push the buttons, go with the manual push button switch.

If you will be sitting farther away and need remote control capability or if you are using longer cables, go with the 5x1 switch.

I've used both of them.

The 2x1 manual push button type is a simple device that gets the job done. It works great at 1080p 60Hz with HDCP up to the 35ft cables I tested. With 50ft cables, I got sparkles at 1080p, but it worked fine at 720p/1080i up to and including 50ft. The beauty of this device is the simplicity of design. It probably is one of the most compatible of all the switchers I've tried because it is completely passive. Switching from input #1 to input #2 is the same as unplugging the HDMI cable from your device and plugging it into the second device. If something doesn't work with this switch, then it wouldn't have worked if you unplugged the cable by hand, so basically if it doesn't work, it is a problem with the source or sink device, not the switch.

The 5x1 is also a very good switch. I tested it extensively and the video quality is always excellent. I've tested 1080p @ 60Hz with HDCP with 50ft HDMI cables and had no sparkles at all. The "equalizer" function they mention is an "eye opener" function which cleans up the TMDS signal so it can be transmitted over longer distances without errors. Think of it as a builtin amplifier, but it works using a different mechanism. It also has 2 ways to switch devices. Either you can have the device detect the active signal and switch to it, or you can use the discrete input select on the remote control. The remote has buttons 1-5 which allow you to select which input you want without needing to cycle through them all.

I reviewed the 5x1 switcher here:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=640183

My best advice, if you just need a simple switch and will be sitting close enough to push the buttons, go with the manual push button switch.

If you will be sitting farther away and need remote control capability or if you are using longer cables, go with the 5x1 switch.
Thanks a lot. I will take this into serious consideration. I'm assuming the 5x1 switch and the 2x1 are the same thing?

Thanks a lot. I will take this into serious consideration. I'm assuming the 5x1 switch and the 2x1 are the same thing?
The 5x1 and 2x1 with equalizer are supposed to be the same thing, but I've only tried to 5x1 so that is the only one I can personally comment on.

The 2x1 manual switch is of course different.

The 5x1 and 2x1 with equalizer are supposed to be the same thing, but I've only tried to 5x1 so that is the only one I can personally comment on.

The 2x1 manual switch is of course different.
But you feel confident that if I hook up my DirecTV box w/ an HDMI output to the 2x1 splitter it will look just the same as if I plugged it straight into the TV?

What is a power conditioner, and what is the purpose of it?

Anyone using the Zektor HDS4.1 (http://www.zektor.com/hds41/index.html)?
OK, this unit is officially awesome. The coax or optical ==> coax or optical functionality is incredibly convenient, and there is no component video quality degradation whatsoever.

Now I have my 1080i PVR, 480p DVD player, 480i multiregion player, and 1080i Xbox 360 all running this unit. Now I don't have to bother changing the TV's video input.

Now, has anyone set this thing up for use with a Harmony remote? There were remote codes at Logitech for the HDS4, but the default Logitech ones don't seem to work with the 4.1.

But you feel confident that if I hook up my DirecTV box w/ an HDMI output to the 2x1 splitter it will look just the same as if I plugged it straight into the TV?
Yes it will look the same. You can't get more basic than the manual switch. It works the same as unplugging the cable by hand and plugging it into the second device. I've tested it at 1080p up to 35ft and 1080i/720p up to 50ft. Picture quality is excellent.

Yes it will look the same. You can't get more basic than the manual switch. It works the same as unplugging the cable by hand and plugging it into the second device. I've tested it at 1080p up to 35ft and 1080i/720p up to 50ft. Picture quality is excellent.
Does this same thing go for the 5 x 1? I am still not sure which I am going to get. I will have it set to manual switching, if that helps.

Wait -- how did you test the 5 x 1? It is on pre-order only 4/26/06.

OK, this unit is officially awesome. The coax or optical ==> coax or optical functionality is incredibly convenient, and there is no component video quality degradation whatsoever.

Now I have my 1080i PVR, 480p DVD player, 480i multiregion player, and 1080i Xbox 360 all running this unit. Now I don't have to bother changing the TV's video input.

Now, has anyone set this thing up for use with a Harmony remote? There were remote codes at Logitech for the HDS4, but the default Logitech ones don't seem to work with the 4.1.
Problem solved. I just set up the Zektor to learn the default Logitech codes, and now everything runs great.

The Zektor is one of the best purchases I've made for my home theatre in quite a while. Highly recommended. BTW, I'm glad I got this instead instead of the Audio Authority one. I like the idea of the automatic switching with the Audio Authority switcher, but with the Harmony remote that automatic switching is unnecessary since the remote takes care of it, and there's no chance of conflicts that can happen sometimes with the Audio Authority when components don't shut completely off.

The only negative about this Zektor unit is that the "click" is fairly audible when it switches inputs, but that's a pretty minor negative. :p

P.S. I could make use of a 6 to 1 switcher especially if I add an HD-DVD/Blu-ray player, but there isn't a Zektor one unfortunately. However, if I finally do get such a player, maybe I'll finally replace my trusty Panasonic RP91 DVD player with it. Either that or I could buy another Zektor. ;)

Does this same thing go for the 5 x 1? I am still not sure which I am going to get. I will have it set to manual switching, if that helps.

Wait -- how did you test the 5 x 1? It is on pre-order only 4/26/06.
Pre-order just means the earlier shipments are already accounted for. They have been shipping the 5x1 for a while now.

5x1 works with most equipment, but sometimes there are issues with certain equipment. You can read my review for a list of problems I encountered. I've worked around all the problems for my usage. In my experience all powered passive switches have some issues if you test enough equipment, but for most equipment they will be ok. Repeater style switches can potentially have more issues, especially with cable boxes. It is the fault of the cable box, but that doesn't make life any easier.

Is this any good? Will the passive? equalizer work for 1080p?

http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=102&cp_id=10240&cs_id=1024004&p_id=2802&seq=1&format=2&style=

or should I get a 22 AWG 50 ft + HDMI booster/repeater?

http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=102&cp_id=10240&cs_id=1024001&p_id=2804&seq=1&format=2&style=

http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=104&cp_id=10419&cs_id=1041907&p_id=2728&seq=1&format=2&style=

Or I guess it wouldn't hurt to get the cable with the equalizer + booster??

Is this any good? Will the passive? equalizer work for 1080p?

http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=102&cp_id=10240&cs_id=1024004&p_id=2802&seq=1&format=2&style=

or should I get a 22 AWG 50 ft + HDMI booster/repeater?

http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=102&cp_id=10240&cs_id=1024001&p_id=2804&seq=1&format=2&style=

http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=104&cp_id=10419&cs_id=1041907&p_id=2728&seq=1&format=2&style=

Or I guess it wouldn't hurt to get the cable with the equalizer + booster??
The 100ft cable with equalizer I tested worked fine for 720p/1080i but had issues at 1080p.

Do you really need something that long?

The regular 50ft HDMI cables worked for 720p/1080i and for 1080p @ 60Hz with HDCP. That was without any repeater or booster straight from source device to display.

My best advice is to stick with lengths 50ft or less unless you absolutely need the longer cables.

Hello,

I m planning to change the 10 years old TV and switch to the Westinghouse 42" LCD 1080 monitor.
I also have a dishnetwork 811 box which has a DVI connection.

I have a spare DVI cable (DVI-D?) from a Dell LCD 1901FP monitor. Do you know if I can use this cable to connect the Dish box to the Westinghouse ?

Thank you,
JF

The DVI-D cable should work fine.

The 100ft cable with equalizer I tested worked fine for 720p/1080i but had issues at 1080p.

Do you really need something that long?

The regular 50ft HDMI cables worked for 720p/1080i and for 1080p @ 60Hz with HDCP. That was without any repeater or booster straight from source device to display.

My best advice is to stick with lengths 50ft or less unless you absolutely need the longer cables.

Which 50ft HDMI cable did you try? The tin-plated one or silver-plated one?


What about the 75ft equalized cable?

I'm planning on distributing the HDMI signal, so I may need 100ft; but 50ft should be my max I think.

If I include the dual hdmi wall plates and extra cables, then I'll be 3 ft over...should be ok or better to get a booster?

Which 50ft HDMI cable did you try? The tin-plated one or silver-plated one?


What about the 75ft equalized cable?

I'm planning on distributing the HDMI signal, so I may need 100ft; but 50ft should be my max I think.

If I include the dual hdmi wall plates and extra cables, then I'll be 3 ft over...should be ok or better to get a booster?


when you get into long cable runs, the difference in quality cables really shows.

you shouldn't need a booster with a quality cable, xboy.

remember, crap in equals crap out and a booster will simply amplify crap.

when you get into long cable runs, the difference in quality cables really shows.

you shouldn't need a booster with a quality cable, xboy.

remember, crap in equals crap out and a booster will simply amplify crap.

It's hard finding quality cables at reasonable prices...

Why couldn't HDMI bemore like CAT6? :P

It's hard finding quality cables at reasonable prices...

Why couldn't HDMI bemore like CAT6? :P
You should get to know a little thing called www.monoprice.com

when you get into long cable runs, the difference in quality cables really shows.

you shouldn't need a booster with a quality cable, xboy.

remember, crap in equals crap out and a booster will simply amplify crap.
How many 100ft cables have you tested?

Good quality or not, over 50ft, you are asking for trouble. Whether you'd like to believe it or not, there is a limit to how far you can go without repeaters and that limit is around 50ft.

Which 50ft HDMI cable did you try? The tin-plated one or silver-plated one?

What about the 75ft equalized cable?

I'm planning on distributing the HDMI signal, so I may need 100ft; but 50ft should be my max I think.

If I include the dual hdmi wall plates and extra cables, then I'll be 3 ft over...should be ok or better to get a booster?
I've tried both tin-plated and silver-plated. They both work fine at 1080p.

The 75ft equalized cable performs the same as 100ft cable above.

I'd be careful with the HDMI wall plates. You'd be surprised how many times the little adapters are the pieces that cause the sparkles when the cable would otherwise be fine. I imagine you'll have some HDMI female-female adapter for the wall plate? Make sure you test the cables without and with the adapter before you string everything through the wall.

If you are planning on stringing the 75ft/100ft equalized cable through the wall, be aware the equalizer unit is inline on the cable and there is a bulge about 1"x1"

How many 100ft cables have you tested?

Good quality or not, over 50ft, you are asking for trouble. Whether you'd like to believe it or not, there is a limit to how far you can go without repeaters and that limit is around 50ft.

that's complete nonsense, sfhub. you can go well beyond 50', even upto 150' with quality cables with no need for amplification.

why are you getting so defensive about monoprice anyway?

monoprice is great for the money but that's about it. you're happy with them, good for you. some of us want better though and money isn't an issue.

by the way, i DO have cables over 50', 75' actually, going to my theatre room and i DON'T have any problems at all.

xboy: trust me, if you can do it, stay away from a booster/repeater and buy quality cables.

you'll be glad you did for years to come. ;)

I replaced as much of the old RG59 in my attic as I could w/ the exception of the Florida Room TV, which was inaccessible, so I ran a splitter w/ RG6Quad from the outside cable box. The picture is not as sharp as when I had all RG59. Is there a signal loss when you mix two types of cable?

I replaced as much of the old RG59 in my attic as I could w/ the exception of the Florida Room TV, which was inaccessible, so I ran a splitter w/ RG6Quad from the outside cable box. The picture is not as sharp as when I had all RG59. Is there a signal loss when you mix two types of cable?

RG59 isn't made for satellite, RoseRx, it's for cable TV.

i'm thinking the problem is the RG59 cable.

also, make sure you use RG6 connectors, they're made differently than RG59 connectors.

I replaced as much of the old RG59 in my attic as I could w/ the exception of the Florida Room TV, which was inaccessible, so I ran a splitter w/ RG6Quad from the outside cable box. The picture is not as sharp as when I had all RG59. Is there a signal loss when you mix two types of cable?
Did you crimp your own connectors? Which type did you use? I've found many of the issues with coax cable come from bad connectors.

I would suggest using Thomas&Betts compression-style connectors. They are very durable and you always get an excellent interface to your cable. The tightening nut also turns silky smooth.

Thumbs up to monoprice!! Never heard of them till I joined the forum. Forum sponsor and member recommendations, thought I'd give them a try. Price was so low I had to wonder if the cables were junk. Just got them today and they look like a quality product. Heavy cable with nice connectors (ordered the premium componant). Extremely fast and reasonable shipping. Panny 8uk should be here next week and I'll get to hook them up then, can't wait.

Thumbs up to monoprice!! Never heard of them till I joined the forum. Forum sponsor and member recommendations, thought I'd give them a try. Price was so low I had to wonder if the cables were junk. Just got them today and they look like a quality product. Heavy cable with nice connectors (ordered the premium componant). Extremely fast and reasonable shipping. Panny 8uk should be here next week and I'll get to hook them up then, can't wait.

that screen is gonna blow your socks off, woody. ;)

I have a surge protector hooked up with all my components plugged in to it. I got a cheap home extension cord and plugged it in to the surge protector and I plugged is my phone, alarm clock, and fan on the other end. My question is: are the phone, alarm clock, and fan still protected from a power surge?

I have a surge protector hooked up with all my components plugged in to it. I got a cheap home extension cord and plugged it in to the surge protector and I plugged is my phone, alarm clock, and fan on the other end. My question is: are the phone, alarm clock, and fan still protected from a power surge?

Unless the phone line goes through the surge protector, it is providing a backdoor way for a surge to get to all of your "protected" equipment. If the phone line goes straight from the wall to the phone, a lightning strike on the phone line can come in through the phone line and then get to all of your equipment.

Unless the phone line goes through the surge protector, it is providing a backdoor way for a surge to get to all of your "protected" equipment. If the phone line goes straight from the wall to the phone, a lightning strike on the phone line can come in through the phone line and then get to all of your equipment.
So is my equipment protected or not?

Are you saying if the phone line is plugged into the surge protector it can damage the other stuff I have hooked up to the surge protector?

What if the phone line is at the complete other side of the house?

So is my equipment protected or not?

Are you saying if the phone line is plugged into the surge protector it can damage the other stuff I have hooked up to the surge protector?

What if the phone line is at the complete other side of the house?

If the phone line goes through the surge protector, everything is protected.

If the phone line doesn't go through the surge protector, NOTHING is protected.

As long as all electrical connections for your phone go through the protector, you're okay. If you had AC power for the phone connected to the protector, but the phone line itself going from the wall to the phone, a surge coming in on the phone line could jump to the AC power cord for the phone and go into the protector and spread to the other equipment connected to the protector.

If the phone line goes through the surge protector, everything is protected.

If the phone line doesn't go through the surge protector, NOTHING is protected.

As long as all electrical connections for your phone go through the protector, you're okay. If you had AC power for the phone connected to the protector, but the phone line itself going from the wall to the phone, a surge coming in on the phone line could jump to the AC power cord for the phone and go into the protector and spread to the other equipment connected to the protector.
Gotcha. I am referring to my bedroom here, and I was talking about a cell phone, not a house phone. That is still very useful information though. So my cell phone, alarm clock, and fan ARE protected, right?

In my bedroom here I will not have a house phone. Now if equipment on the other side of the house does not have surge protection, it cannot harm my equipment here in my bedroom, can it?

Is it only stuff that is hooked up to the same surge protector by means of CAT5, phone line, coax, or AC power that can harm each other?

Gotcha. I am referring to my bedroom here, and I was talking about a cell phone, not a house phone. That is still very useful information though. So my cell phone, alarm clock, and fan ARE protected, right?

In my bedroom here I will not have a house phone. Now if equipment on the other side of the house does not have surge protection, it cannot harm my equipment here in my bedroom, can it?

Correct on both.

Is it only stuff that is hooked up to the same surge protector by means of CAT5, phone line, coax, or AC power that can harm each other?

I'm not sure I understand what you mean.

Everything hooked up to a surge protector is protected, as long as all connections to outside sources (cable TV, antenna, phone line, network) go through the protector as well.

Correct on both.



I'm not sure I understand what you mean.

Everything hooked up to a surge protector is protected, as long as all connections to outside sources (cable TV, antenna, phone line, network) go through the protector as well.
You got it. Thanks.

And I need reccomendations. I need about 10 outlets, phone line protection, coax protection, and network protection.

Say I get a surge protector with coax protection...I will run my DirecTV coax thru the surge protector before running it to my STB. Can it lower the PQ of my signal or decrease it in any way?

And I need reccomendations. I need about 10 outlets, phone line protection, coax protection, and network protection.


Did you have a surge already?! You were just talking about one. :)

I'll need some recommendations too.

Thanks,
George

Did you have a surge already?! You were just talking about one. :)

I'll need some recommendations too.

Thanks,
George
Yeah I need a new one though for 2 reasons:

(1) I don't know if my current protector is good

(2) It doesn't have the ethernet (network) and coax protection like I need.

will this work i remember reading that the cord doesnt convert the signal and u might not get a picture ...i wanted to purchase LC-37D40U and connect my gateway pc but the sharp doesnt have a PC input will a vga->component cord from monoprice work???

will this work i remember reading that the cord doesnt convert the signal and u might not get a picture ...i wanted to purchase LC-37D40U and connect my gateway pc but the sharp doesnt have a PC input will a vga->component cord from monoprice work???
If you have ATI card, you will need to see if your card supports ATI VGA->component dongle.

If you have nVidia card, you will need to see if your card supports Component breakout box.

Straight VGA cable using RGB from your PC to Sharp's component input will not work. You need to get the signal in YPbPr (instead of RGB). Either your card can do this internally as mentioned above, or you need to get a RGB->YPbPr transcoder.

will this work i remember reading that the cord doesnt convert the signal and u might not get a picture ...i wanted to purchase LC-37D40U and connect my gateway pc but the sharp doesnt have a PC input will a vga->component cord from monoprice work???

be careful, mixtapem. some cables, like the component to XVGA cable i'm using, are one way cables and won't work even IF your screen is capable.

Can someone who has -- monoprice -- component cables do a test for me? Can you disconnect the cables by pulling the connector straight out or do you have to twist the connector and then pull to disconnect? In other words does the connector "bite" when connected and the bite has to be released by twisting when trying to disconnect?

Thanks,
Yeto

Could someone post a picture of the solder connection from a -- monoprice -- component cable? Also, maybe a picture from the end of the connector to give us an idea of the thickness of the dieletric.

Thanks,
Yeto

I need a surge protector with 9-10 outlets, phone, network (CAT 5), and coax protection. Does anybody know of any good ones?

Kyser I tried posting this in the cables/switchers area, but I got no responses.

Tripplite HT1010SAT3.

J&R has them cheap.

Tripplite HT1010SAT3.Is that a good one?

Look at the specs and see if you can find a better one for the price that does what you need. It was a recommendation, of course I think it is a good one. That does not mean it is what you need nor that it is good info. Check it for yourself and find out.

Look at the specs and see if you can find a better one for the price that does what you need. It was a recommendation, of course I think it is a good one. That does not mean it is what you need nor that it is good info. Check it for yourself and find out.
Seems like a nice one...it provides all the connections I need. Specs don't mean everything though.

I will be using the coax line for my DirecTV box. I will want it protected, so it will go from wall --> surge protector input --> surge protector output --> DirecTV box. My question is: can the coax on the surge protector lower the PQ of my signal?

The specs actually mean a lot. What I look for is Joule rating (which is pretty high on this one), clamping voltage (which is as low as you will find on this one), power rating, and protection on all combinations of the a.c. lines (H-G, H-N, N-G). I'd like to see the numbers for clamping voltages on the signal lines but they don't provide them.

Feature-wise, I like the spacing for transformers and the right angle connector, as well as having protection for all signal types. For the $ I don't know of another with 10 outlets that is better. I like the Panamax stuff, but they are limited to 8 and have lower joule ratings.

Can someone who has -- monoprice -- component cables do a test for me? Can you disconnect the cables by pulling the connector straight out or do you have to twist the connector and then pull to disconnect? In other words does the connector "bite" when connected and the bite has to be released by twisting when trying to disconnect?

Thanks,
YetoThey certainly don't "bite." I was able to pull them off without a lot of force. These are the "premium" cables. I just hooked them up last weekend. My BlueJeans cables are definitely a much tighter fit. I didn't go and pull them just because they're hard to reach, but I remember having to really twist them on.

I've found the monoprice cables to be "Ok". Nothing spectacular, I guess a decent value for the money, which is cheap/inexpensive. Nothing like the Blue Jeans, with Belden cable and Canare RCA plugs. However, the BJ cables were higher cost. If I had long runs, or was an audiophile, I would have sprung for the better cables. My HDMI cable is 6ft and the components are 15ft.

Another thing about BJ, you can get the exact length cable you want. They are hand made.

They certainly don't "bite." I was able to pull them off without a lot of force. These are the "premium" cables. I just hooked them up last weekend. My BlueJeans cables are definitely a much tighter fit. I didn't go and pull them just because they're hard to reach, but I remember having to really twist them on.

I've found the monoprice cables to be "Ok". Nothing spectacular, I guess a decent value for the money, which is cheap/inexpensive. Nothing like the Blue Jeans, with Belden cable and Canare RCA plugs. However, the BJ cables were higher cost. If I had long runs, or was an audiophile, I would have sprung for the better cables. My HDMI cable is 6ft and the components are 15ft.

Another thing about BJ, you can get the exact length cable you want. They are hand made.

Thanks for the information. I figured that the Monoprice cables wouldn't bite like the turbine cut Monster cables. I have found in the past that those type of connectors will fit snug at first but will loosen over time. Post #130 from this thread will confirm the same thing. Also the stiffness of the cables from Monoprice puts undue strain on the connectors. I wouldn't use them on my equipment but I understand that if it is not in your budget to buy Monster that you have to do what you have to do.

Just a side note. I never pay full price for Monster cables at BB or CC. I take the time to talk to different sales people in their HT department until I find someone who is willing and has the authority to help me. I tell them I want to buy cables from them but I can't pay full price. Also, if I can find lower pricing on the internet on comparable product I print and bring that information with me as well. Usually, if I take the time to find the right person they will help me with the price.

I am fortunate that in my city we have good BB and CC stores. All of their employees are not equally trained or have the same interest in the products so you have to do your homework. How many times have we heard someone use the phrase BB or CC drones? I am sorry to say that everyone does not take their job as serious as they should but you find that everywhere (Walmart, McDonalds, etc.). Just look around and do your homework and you will find someone who can help.

I know a lot of people hate Monster but one thing is for sure. Nobody is going to trade their Monster cable for a Monoprice cable and believe me there are plenty of cables out there priced higher than Monster.

The specs actually mean a lot. What I look for is Joule rating (which is pretty high on this one), clamping voltage (which is as low as you will find on this one), power rating, and protection on all combinations of the a.c. lines (H-G, H-N, N-G). I'd like to see the numbers for clamping voltages on the signal lines but they don't provide them.

Feature-wise, I like the spacing for transformers and the right angle connector, as well as having protection for all signal types. For the $ I don't know of another with 10 outlets that is better. I like the Panamax stuff, but they are limited to 8 and have lower joule ratings.
What do you mean by protection on all combinations of the a.c. lines? Does this Surge Protector have that?

What about response time? I was told to look for something that was under 1 ms.

Is it so hard to do a little research? Go to the Tripplite site and look it up! Go to the Panamax, ESP, Belkin, Monster, and other sites and see what they have with your needs.

Protection across Hot and Neutral, Hot and Ground, Ground and Neutral using multiple MOVs on each is good. Yes the unit I recommended has it. It is important because in a nearby lightning strike the any of the three lines may go high for a short period of time relative to the others. You want the current to dump to whichever is lower. 1 mS would be very slow. All of the better products should be less than 1 nS.

Hi there

New owner here...

I bought the viewsonic 37 lcd and planning to attach the DVP-NS75H Sony player via hdmi. Looking at monoprice, should I go for 24 gauge vs 28 gauge hdmi cable? Am I going to see a difference if the player is going to be less than 6 feet away?

Hi there

New owner here...

I bought the viewsonic 37 lcd and planning to attach the DVP-NS75H Sony player via hdmi. Looking at monoprice, should I go for 24 gauge vs 28 gauge hdmi cable? Am I going to see a difference if the player is going to be less than 6 feet away?
You won't see a difference. Anything less than 15ft 28AWG is fine.

Hey Everyone,

I have BB-Magnolia coming this week to set this up. What do you think?

Panasonic Plasma 50PX60U w/ Sanus Wall mount extendable 19inches
Definitive PC80 system, w/ 250 watt 10 in Sub
Denon AVR2807
Panamax 5100EX Power Conditioner
All Audioquest Cables
XBOX 360 - Using as DVD as well
Psyclone XBOX 360 Composite Cables

Once this is installed, getting an electrcian to install the Panamax MAX IN-WALL™ POWERKIT-TL, so I can hide ALL the wires (BB can't install power cables in the wall). BB is going to dismount the TV while the electrican does this.

I'm assuming they can install the rear speakers anywhere I want along the back wall, correct?

What do you think? Anything I missed/won't work?

I hope you're using component cables for your 360 and not composite.

Yes.. component, not composite.

psyclone cables are overpriced crap, how do i know this because i had them on my ps2. monster cables are the best after market cables for any video game system.

psyclone cables are overpriced crap, how do i know this because i had them on my ps2. monster cables are the best after market cables for any video game system.

I'm pretty sure Monster Cables are synonymous with overpriced crap. Why would you use after market cables for a game system when you can just use the ones made by the company? I'm sure Sony and Microsoft know what they're doing.

Monster is totally over-priced garbage.

A few sugegsions:

Dont use the 360 as your DVD player, its not a very good one, and you may want to use HDMi for a DVD player.

The 360 is awesome for games but the DVD just looks cheap and not good what so ever....

I'm pretty sure Monster Cables are synonymous with overpriced crap. Why would you use after market cables for a game system when you can just use the ones made by the company? I'm sure Sony and Microsoft know what they're doing.
why would you pay $69 for cables from a company that only makes cables for video game systems when you could pay $59 for monster cables that are from a well respected cable making company.

if you buy cables from the oem company microsoft or sony you will get just that oem cables

ps i have audioquest, pure av and monster cable in my set up so don't think im only for monster cable :o

Monster spends more money on marketing cables than they do making Cables. They are indeed pretty nice cables, great for video stuff but not the nicest it gets in terms of say Audiophile grade. But can you really beleive **** like "Di-electric super nitrogen injected pure copper core bi-threaded sheilding for maximum conductivity and bandwidth" Common.

For a game console I would consider Monster, I use Monster for my PS2, but Im not gonna waste my money for say a Monster HDMI cable when I can go with monoprice instead. Monster is part real, and mostly hype. Notice how the on the connectors, the use of the thick gold plated odd shaped, cool designed outer part of the RCA. Thats the ground!

I think monster is mostly about peice of mind, and losing alot of your money for it. They dont even make the wire that goes into the cables.

here is a funny read, its abit long but read it, youll get a good laugh.

http://www.somethingawful.com/articles.php?a=2559

why would you pay extra for psyclone, monster or another aftermarket snake oil product when the system comes with cables.

Monster = overpriced

why would you pay extra for psyclone, monster or another aftermarket snake oil product when the system comes with cables.
because they are better, their are tons of marketing lingo and graphs to get everyone confused but the products usually do what they say. for instance i bought a monster cable power cord for my ps2, cheap $12.95 upgrade. at first i noticed nothing then after awhile i saw the picture was slightly sharper and i didn't see any interference on the tv when the picture got dark or on load screens or anything else.

im only suggestion monster cables for the xbox 360 not the hole house. also for everyone saying its to expensive or over priced, then stick with the cables you got with the equipment :p

Monster Cables can tell some monster lies. If they did put more money into 'true' research insted of 'marketing' research they would be totally awesome.

Monster power cable? Now thats just F-ing rediculous. Have you ever opened a PS2? I know them inside and out as I have opened atleast 150 Of them. As soon as the cable hits the PS2, there is a cheap conector that hooks it to the PSU. The signal is then bumped to 12v DC and gone through stages of filtering. On a digital device you arent gonna see a damned of difference. Maybe your previous cable was wrapped around your video cable, and the monster was not. Any difference you see would take place outside of the PS2.

Think about this, your power comes over power lines, goes through your circuit breaker, through the house's romex cables, none of those are Monster cables are they?

i know exactly what you are saying, the cable probably did nothing but give me 4 extra feet of length but it also gave me 24K connectors which probably did very little ether. i still notice something and the cable is in the same exact place as the stock one was right next to the video cable.

then why does audioquest have the same power cable for $95 or even a $190

I geuss the Monster cable has more "chi" than others. Hah.

I actually used to be totally under the Monster spell. I spent hundreds doing my whole setup in Monster cables, luckly I bought them all online so I didnt get totally shafted by Circuit City or anything. But now Ive realized its not all it makes itself to be. Its monoprice for me now.

Mugen, you need to read some research on cables that is NOT produced by a cable manufacturer. If you can actually tell the difference between a $59 Monster cable and a $5 piece of good RG59 cable & a couple of $2 RCA compression connectors in a blind test, then you are 1 in a million...

There will be a special level of he11 for snake-oil salesmen of high-priced cables.

http://www.pcworld.com/reviews/article/0,aid,121777,00.asp

You're obviously dropping a fair amount of coin. I'd go ahead and splurge on the Toshiba HD-DVD player for $500.

To the original poster...YES, your set up will be nice. You will really enjoy your Xbox360 with your new plasma.

For the Component cable, the Microsoft brand is fine, and less then Psyclone and Monster. Monster Cables are great cables, but yes, they are overpriced. No need to buy them.

You'll also need an Optical Audio cable for your 5.1 surround sound out of the Xbox360.

Your rear surround speakers can't really go ANYWHERE, but without seeing your room and deminsions I can't tell you where to hang them. Not too low, not too high. Maybe a little wider then your front speakers are placed.
You'll need speaker wire too. Can't gorget that. You can find some good flat wire from Monster that might help with your surround connection. I assume you'll just have to run the wires on the floor or along the wall to the back of your room. Maybe hide them under a rug or something.

Enjoy...See you on Live.
My gamertag is theSkeptiks

http://www.pcworld.com/reviews/article/0,aid,121777,00.asp
this test pretty much says you get what you pay for. i think this goes for everything in life :o also the test did tell me that i should still buy a audioquest hdmi cable.

anyway HTNewbie1 make sure you picked up a fiber optic cable as someone else has pointed out if you have not, audioquest will do unless you think its overpriced :)

Are you considering any other options other than the panamax in wall power system? I'm looking for a more affordable solution.

Are you considering any other options other than the panamax in wall power system? I'm looking for a more affordable solution.
monster power has one for $200
http://www.monstercable.com/power/productPagePower.asp?pin=2764&LastPage=Flat%20Screen%20Power

then why does audioquest have the same power cable for $95 or even a $190

Because just like Best Buy and their Monster Cables, there are people who go "80$ for cables?" Then the salesman goes, "<insert ******** here>", at Magnolia, it's the same thing, except for the customer generally has more money. "190$ for cables?" Salesman: "<insert ******** here>." The sad thing is people buy this crap all day long because the blue/black shirts of BB/Magnolia are supposedly synonymous with knowledge, when in fact 99/100 it's the opposite.

this test pretty much says you get what you pay for. i think this goes for everything in life :o also the test did tell me that i should still buy a audioquest hdmi cable.

anyway HTNewbie1 make sure you picked up a fiber optic cable as someone else has pointed out if you have not, audioquest will do unless you think its overpriced :)

You have an interesting spin on their conclusion:

"Our conclusion: You don't need to spend a fortune on cables. The HDMI cables performed comparably in both our instrument tests and our visual tests. And with analog cables, the analyzer revealed some degree of variation in quality, but the variances did not translate into noticeable differences in our visual tests."

If you can't *see* the difference, why pay more??

Dos anyone have any opinion on Monster brand power strips and line conditioners like this one? (http://www.monstercable.ca/Canada/English/productPage.asp?pin=3329) Perhaps these are snake oil too. Do we really need these?

If you can't *see* the difference, why pay more??
I completely agree, but some people just want to pay more because it makes them feel better because they think they are getting the best when they pay the most.

Monster spends more money on marketing cables than they do making Cables. They are indeed pretty nice cables, great for video stuff but not the nicest it gets in terms of say Audiophile grade. But can you really beleive **** like "Di-electric super nitrogen injected pure copper core bi-threaded sheilding for maximum conductivity and bandwidth" Common.

For a game console I would consider Monster, I use Monster for my PS2, but Im not gonna waste my money for say a Monster HDMI cable when I can go with monoprice instead. Monster is part real, and mostly hype. Notice how the on the connectors, the use of the thick gold plated odd shaped, cool designed outer part of the RCA. Thats the ground!

I think monster is mostly about peice of mind, and losing alot of your money for it. They dont even make the wire that goes into the cables.

here is a funny read, its abit long but read it, youll get a good laugh.

http://www.somethingawful.com/articles.php?a=2559

Somebody had an axe to grind. We need to send him some cheese to go with that whine.

Monster = overpriced

compared to . ? . ? . ?

http://www.pcworld.com/reviews/article/0,aid,121777,00.asp

The digital portion of the test (page two) was not very scientific.

I thought it was interesting that on page three (analog test) that Cablewholesale had the least amount of signal bounce. I wonder if that could be attributed to the amount of shielding in the cable versus it's competitors? I would have liked to see some tests involving EMI and RFI.

I have always found that if the solder connections past inspection then the next area of concern is the integrity of the connection to the equipment. I am a big fan of the turbine type connectors that "bite". I have found that the other connectors loosen over time and in some cases cause degradation of the signal.

Past experience has taught me that some brands and types of equipment benefit more from quality cables than others and it does not always correlate with name and price.

Because just like Best Buy and their Monster Cables, there are people who go "80$ for cables?" Then the salesman goes, "<insert ******** here>", at Magnolia, it's the same thing, except for the customer generally has more money. "190$ for cables?" Salesman: "<insert ******** here>." The sad thing is people buy this crap all day long because the blue/black shirts of BB/Magnolia are supposedly synonymous with knowledge, when in fact 99/100 it's the opposite.

Could you please share with us your source on the 99/100 knowledge thing?

Dos anyone have any opinion on Monster brand power strips and line conditioners like this one? (http://www.monstercable.ca/Canada/English/productPage.asp?pin=3329) Perhaps these are snake oil too. Do we really need these?

The amount of "noise" in your system will determine how much difference a power conditioner will make. I have compared companies like Panamax, Belkin, Tripplite, and Monster etc. and I don't see much difference in their products. They seem, for the the most part, to use similar schematics and components. I would buy the brand that has the features you need and I would buy from a company that offers a return policy. If you are not satisfied with your purchase return it and try a different brand. Hope this helps.

Let us know what you decide and if you like the product.

I am having a problem when i started using HDMI/DVI and an SPIF(i think that's what it's called) audio cable. I have it hooked up to Comcast HD box and when im watching regular channels the sound skips and does not travel with the video, its delayed sometimes. I had component cables hooked up before and i never had a problem, Anyone have this problem.

I am having a problem when i started using HDMI/DVI and an SPIF(i think that's what it's called) audio cable. I have it hooked up to Comcast HD box and when im watching regular channels the sound skips and does not travel with the video, its delayed sometimes. I had component cables hooked up before and i never had a problem, Anyone have this problem.

I am hearing that a small percentage of people are having trouble getting the audio portion of HDMI to work with cable boxes. The cable companies, so far, are not able to offer much help. If you find a solution please share it with the board.

Hope this helps,
Yeto

HELP

I just purchased the Tripplite HT1000 LCD UPS. I tried using the coaxial connection in the UPS by running my coax from the wall into the UPS then into my SA 8300 HD STB. The signal degraded to the point that my digital channels either didn't work at all or degraded severely. I tried multiple sets of coax and both sets of coax jacks on the UPS, non of which improved the signal quality. Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated. I would like to use coax connection on the UPS. THANKS!!!!

HELP

I just purchased the Tripplite HT1000 LCD UPS. I tried using the coaxial connection in the UPS by running my coax from the wall into the UPS then into my SA 8300 HD STB. The signal degraded to the point that my digital channels either didn't work at all or degraded severely. I tried multiple sets of coax and both sets of coax jacks on the UPS, non of which improved the signal quality. Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated. I would like to use coax connection on the UPS. THANKS!!!!
That's rediculous. I need to think of a way to bypass the coaxial connection on the surge protector on mine so I don't have to risk that.

What if I am using satellite TV? Do I still need to surge protect the coaxial connection? It goes straight from the satellite dish to the room where the STB is.

If you are using satelite, you probably don't need to run the coax through a surge protector. You wiring is running directly from your roof to your house, whereas a cable line runs through the ground from the cable company. If there is an electrical surge from your satelite, chances are you'll have much more to worry about then losing your satelite box. For those of you who own cable boxes...why do you worry about running coax through a surge? It's the cable company's box. If it gets fried, you take it back and get a new one.

If you are using satelite, you probably don't need to run the coax through a surge protector. You wiring is running directly from your roof to your house, whereas a cable line runs through the ground from the cable company. If there is an electrical surge from your satelite, chances are you'll have much more to worry about then losing your satelite box. For those of you who own cable boxes...why do you worry about running coax through a surge? It's the cable company's box. If it gets fried, you take it back and get a new one.
Yes but I think the surge can travel from the box to the TV and destroy your TV.

I see it all the time. It often travels over the shield and we can see ground traces blown off of the board. The sat or cable should be grounded at the entry point and going through a SS local to the system doesn't hurt. Also, if the ground side goes high, a surge suppressor with MOVs across all line combinations can dump current back to the nuetral or hot without it having to find a path through the equipment.

Alright, I'm having a hard time figuring out which cable company you guys seem to like more. The two names I see mentioned around here quite a bit are www.monoprice.com and www.bluejeanscable.com. My question is: Which company produces the highest quality cables? Is it really just a matter of taste?

Also, does anybody have a recommendation for a component/toslink switcher that doesn't have any loss of quality? I'm currently using a Pelican System Selector Pro, but it gives me problems at higher resolutions, especially at 720p. I'd prefer to keep the price around $150 or less, but I can go a bit higher if I need to.

Alright, I'm having a hard time figuring out which cable company you guys seem to like more. The two names I see mentioned around here quite a bit are www.monoprice.com and www.bluejeanscable.com. My question is: Which company produces the highest quality cables? Is it really just a matter of taste?

Also, does anybody have a recommendation for a component/toslink switcher that doesn't have any loss of quality? I'm currently using a Pelican System Selector Pro, but it gives me problems at higher resolutions, especially at 720p. I'd prefer to keep the price around $150 or less, but I can go a bit higher if I need to.

like is said earlier, i'm extremely happy with my audio authority 1154A auto sensing component/optical switcher, Jason.

it's flawless. :)

Is it true that Plasma tvs are very sensitive to irregular electricity? Is power conditioner really necessary to protect it?

I know of no particular sensitivity in PDPs. A surge suppressor is a good idea. A power conditioner provides little protection that you can't get from a good surge suppressor and I would not consider it to be a necessary component.

Alright, I'm having a hard time figuring out which cable company you guys seem to like more. The two names I see mentioned around here quite a bit are www.monoprice.com and www.bluejeanscable.com. My question is: Which company produces the highest quality cables? Is it really just a matter of taste?
I've purchased from both. My opinion is that BJ cables are much better quality. They are made with "name brand" components (Belden, Canare) and you can get custom lengths. The cables look and feel better to me. That said, my latest cable purchase was from mono. The same cables from BJ would have been about 200 more. Since I was purchasing relatively short lengths, I decided to give them a try. Since I'm not an audio/videophile, I can't tell the difference. However, when I build a better theater and need longer cables, I will probably go with BJ.

Don't get me wrong, I think the price you pay for each brand is worth it for each brand. If you think the monoprice cables will be sufficient for your needs, there probably isn't any need to spend the extra $$$ for any better cable.

As always, this is just my opinion. Hope this helps.

just picked up my 42 imch panny and I need some 35ft hdmi cables. better cables has them for $249 each and monoprice i think is like $60 each. Just womdering if there is a big difference in quality and if I will notice the difference in pq? Does anyone know of anywhere else that may have quality cables at a good price. I really don't want to spend $500 dollars on cables but I would like to run 2 hdmi cables so when I get my dvd player the cables are there
thanks in advance :D

Digital is all or nothing in the transmission. There is no chance for a "more accurate" signal as long as all the data is being conveyed. If you see sparkles in an image, you are getting some data loss, but my 28awg monoprice cables(6 ft) work great.

I say go monoprice if you don't need an ego stroking with bling bling cables. :)

That is pretty much, true. With the Digital it's either on or off data transmission. However, the quality of the cable will ensure good connectivity and durability. Also if people ask you, what cable do you use? "I use AudioQuest..." then they go "woAHHHH". BetterCable SilverSerpent is good..... AViC cables are very good too.

Since you're going long distance, it wouldn't hurt to go "high quality". Personally, if I were you "I" would probably pickup a BetterCable or AViC.



an ego stroking with bling bling cables. :)
LOL


6.1% Silver conductor, and is PVC CL-3 rated mon.......
Solid High-Density Polyethylene is used to minimize loss caused by insulation, and to insure critical geometry stability. Two RF Stoppers prevent interference problems. It will give you benefits............... j/k.

threads merged

avic cables where do i get those??? are they a sponsor?

avic cables where do i get those??? are they a sponsor?
yea sure.. http://www.aviccable.com/video-cables-c-1.html
hmm.... but they don't seem to have HDMI though. I have bought two sets of AViC component cables in the past.. Purdy looking cables.. :p

Digital is all or nothing in the transmission. There is no chance for a "more accurate" signal as long as all the data is being conveyed. If you see sparkles in an image, you are getting some data loss, but my 28awg monoprice cables(6 ft) work great.

I say go monoprice if you don't need an ego stroking with bling bling cables. :)

While I agree with your conclusions about the cables, the first sentence is quite misleading. Digital SHOULD BE all or nothing, but often is not, as your third sentence suggests. Noise can corrupt a digiatl signal just like it can analog. In fact, high frequency digital transmissions behave just like analog. There may be error checking and error correction, and the bits may represent discrete data, but digital transmission can be far from a sure "all or nothing" method of moving information. Usually not an issue for short runs with reasonably good cables, but for longer runs the data may not be conveyed completely nor reliably.

While I agree with your conclusions about the cables, the first sentence is quite misleading. Digital SHOULD BE all or nothing, but often is not, as your third sentence suggests. Noise can corrupt a digiatl signal just like it can analog. In fact, high frequency digital transmissions behave just like analog. There may be error checking and error correction, and the bits may represent discrete data, but digital transmission can be far from a sure "all or nothing" method of moving information. Usually not an issue for short runs with reasonably good cables, but for longer runs the data may not be conveyed completely nor reliably.
I think it is more accurate to say it is obvious when you have problems with a digital cable. There is no gradual degradation. You will see sparkles, static, streaking, or no picture if there is a problem with the digital cable. If someone says one digital cable produces a better picture than another, as in sharper picture, better color, etc., it is in their mind or they have changed the configuration of the source, display, or switched to another input with different settings.

I've tested monoprice cables up to 50ft. They all pass 1080p @ 60Hz with HDCP and represent an amazing value. The customer service at monoprice is very good and they have 21-day return policy with no restocking fee. I would estimate 99% of the people who buy their HDMI/DVI cables from monoprice are satisfied.

You can read the user experiences here:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=628385

Ok, hopefully this is an easy answer for something I'm overlooking, but frustration has set in that I haven't yet figured it out!

I received the 5x1 HDMI switch from monoprice along with additional HDMI cables. I've got one going from the TV to the "out" plug on the switch. I then have cables going from my Motorola cable box to the switch and from my dvd player to the switch. The cable works fine but I can't get any menu to come up on the dvd player. No picture at all. Is there something simple I'm missing? The dvd player is a new toshiba, so I can't imagine it is broken. It is driving me crazy...

Have you tried removing the switch and plugging the DVD players output directly to the TV?

Something else you might try is plugging in an S-Video cable from the DVD player to an open s-video plug on the TV. If you get the menu see if you have to manually turn on the HMDI output or something like that.

The cable works fine but I can't get any menu to come up on the dvd player. No picture at all. Is there something simple I'm missing? The dvd player is a new toshiba, so I can't imagine it is broken. It is driving me crazy...
If it is the new Toshiba HD-A1 HD-DVD player, you need to change the video output to use HDMI. By default it uses component and nothing will show up on HDMI until it is changed.

Ahh, that's a great idea. I'll try a different cable first and see if I can get a menu to switch it to HDMI. Thanks for the suggestion!

Ahh, that's a great idea. I'll try a different cable first and see if I can get a menu to switch it to HDMI. Thanks for the suggestion!
If it is the Toshiba HD-A1 HD-DVD player, you press the "V.Output" button on the remote. You don't need to go into menus.

So is the general consensus that Monster Cable is overrated and overpriced? I work for Best Buy so obviously I don't pay the huge margin increase, but would I really be seeing much PQ difference by ordering the $5 HDMI cable from monoprice.com? Ordering tonight - a quick response would be awesome!

Btw...it's just being used to hook up a Samsung 30" Slimfit and a Samsung Up-Converting DVD/HTIB Receiver. Lemme know if I should buy the Monster 1000 HDMI or just go with the monoprice for 1/10 the price!

So is the general consensus that Monster Cable is overrated and overpriced? I work for Best Buy so obviously I don't pay the huge margin increase, but would I really be seeing much PQ difference by ordering the $5 HDMI cable from monoprice.com? Ordering tonight - a quick response would be awesome!

Btw...it's just being used to hook up a Samsung 30" Slimfit and a Samsung Up-Converting DVD/HTIB Receiver. Lemme know if I should buy the Monster 1000 HDMI or just go with the monoprice for 1/10 the price!

opinions obviously will vary and while i am not a fan of monster at all, due to overpricing, the middle grade monster cables are damn good quality while the top grade is overkill and the lowest grade is ok.

for what you want though, the lowest grade monster or monoprice will do just fine, in my opinion.

After spending a few hours early in the morning hours thinking about it, I just decided to save myself $100 and order from monoprice. Sure, I won't have the fancy meshed wrapped pretty cables or the name on them, but no one's going to see them, and if the quality is that close, it's not really worth it, I've concluded, to spend the extra money, at least with how close I'm working my entertainment budget. Besides, this guy needs a new lawnmower, and that'll help, lol. Thanks for the input.

I just bought a Panasonic TH-37PX60U Plasma tv and a Panasonic SC-HT940 Home Theater System. I hooked up all the speakers and connected the DVD player to my TV with just an HDMI cable. When I watch movies the speakers on the home theater system work fine. But when I'm just watching TV or using my Xbox I cannot get them to work. The TV and DVD player both support HDAVI control and the "Control with HDMI" option on my tv is on. When I try to switch from my TV speakers to the Home Theater speakers I still get no sound. Do I need additional cables to get the home theater speakers to work when watching TV or playing Xbox 360?

Just got the Sony 32S2000 LCD set. The Sony manual does not say anything about this but am wondering about whether there is a need to have the composite video cable connected in addition to the 3 component cables?

The JVC DVD player / VHS combo unit implies with a message on the top portion of the component video connection page of the manual to "Be sure to connect the unit's VIDEO OUTPUT (DVD/VCR) connector to the TV's VIDEO input connector." I don't know what that means, is it saying to have an RCA video cable connected in addition to the component cables? I'm just wondering why JVC put this admonishment at the top of their component hook up page.

I've only seen a few DVD/VHS combo players so this may or may not apply to your unit. I believe that the VHS side will not throw it's video signal through the component cables, therefore you'll need to use the composite, S-video, etc., portion for your VHS needs.

thanks

This is probably a very elementary question, but for some of us, the answer will be helpful.

As for obtaining the best image quality when connecting a DVD player or computer to a display panel, how are the connection options ranked from best to lowest quality?

I'm going to take a stab at it from my limited knowledge, but would appreciate correction from those who know better...

1) DVI/HDMI
2) Component video
3) S-Video
4) VGA
5) Composite video
6) Coaxial

im just trying to understand if this is needed or not on a plasma as ive never owned one. ive never used a surge protector on any thing else in my life, tvs,stereos,computers, etc............................ive never lost anything...............is this just hype and nervousness? i have a 62" widescreen and have never considered the thought till i read some threads here

This was subject of a huge firestorm debate a few months back...basically there are two camps:
1) Protect your investment with a surge protector, it'll save you a lot of trouble and some brands offer replacement guarantees if they fail;
and...
2) Surge protection is an unneccessary expenditure because a lightning strike is unlikely.

I lean towards 1. I had a computer whose life (and more importantly, the data it contained) was saved by a surge protector.

Just my 2 cents.

it is possible for voltage on your AC line to surge, for example due to thunderstorm strike and blow your multi thousand dollar brand new HDTV into electronic hell. It doesn't happen that often but on the other hand surge protector is very inexpensive insurance just in case. Some places are more prone to this than others, but there are good chances you'll never ever need it. But then you may be one of those "lucky" few that did. Pretty much most computer targeted multi AC outlets will have some type of surge protection build in. Keep in mind that in case of direct lightning strike close by, even surge protector may not help.

Keep in mind that in case of direct lightning strike close by, even surge protector may not help.

Keep in mind that, in this case, it is very beneficial to buy from a company that has a connected equipment warranty.

i have battery backups on my HR10-250's in case of power outages.

if and when it comes to an act of god, i know i'll have bigger fish to fry than a fried HR10-250, much bigger.

Besides Monoprice, are there any other companies that sell inexpensive but great quality cables? I need to get component and hdmi cables but Monoprice doesnt have hdmi cables in stock

never had problems with svideo.com

Hi guys, I'm new.

Anyway, here is my situation, and I hope to get a response soon, it would help me greatly, seeing as how I am not very TV-Savy...well, yet ^_^.

Recently I just purchased a Panasonic Plasma TV, the TH-37PX60U, which is an INCREDIBLE television set, for games and movies and even SD television (more so than the Samsung 3251D I bought and then returned). I have an Xbox 360 hooked up to it, and I cannot be any happier with the PQ I experience when I play games on it, it's truly amazing.

However, my problem surfaced when I turned on my PS2, which is hooked up with standard AV cables...the PQ was terrible, and almost unbearable for me to play anything on the PS2. My guess is that I need a component cable to enhance my PS2's PQ, since I am using a plasma? Anyway, yesterday I dropped by my local Gamestop and bought a component cable that was made by MadCatz. I hooked it up to my PS2 and I could not get it to work for some reason. No matter what I did, it wouldn't display a picture, or anything, and yes I hooked it up correctly on my tv. I mean, I would imagine it to be quite simple to hook up a component cable to your TV, is there something I need to do that I'm missing?

I really do hope someone will take the time to read this and is able to provide me with answers. So, my questions are...

1)Why is the PQ of the PS2 so drastically different on my Plasma than my old CRT?

2)Is using component cables for the PS2 the answer?

3)Am I doing something wrong with my cables, or do I just have defected cables?

Please guys, I need help!!! Thanks in advance.

Hi guys, I'm new.

Anyway, here is my situation, and I hope to get a response soon, it would help me greatly, seeing as how I am not very TV-Savy...well, yet ^_^.

Recently I just purchased a Panasonic Plasma TV, the TH-37PX60U, which is an INCREDIBLE television set, for games and movies and even SD television (more so than the Samsung 3251D I bought and then returned). I have an Xbox 360 hooked up to it, and I cannot be any happier with the PQ I experience when I play games on it, it's truly amazing.

However, my problem surfaced when I turned on my PS2, which is hooked up with standard AV cables...the PQ was terrible, and almost unbearable for me to play anything on the PS2. My guess is that I need a component cable to enhance my PS2's PQ, since I am using a plasma? Anyway, yesterday I dropped by my local Gamestop and bought a component cable that was made by MadCatz. I hooked it up to my PS2 and I could not get it to work for some reason. No matter what I did, it wouldn't display a picture, or anything, and yes I hooked it up correctly on my tv. I mean, I would imagine it to be quite simple to hook up a component cable to your TV, is there something I need to do that I'm missing?

I really do hope someone will take the time to read this and is able to provide me with answers. So, my questions are...

1)Why is the PQ of the PS2 so drastically different on my Plasma than my old CRT?

2)Is using component cables for the PS2 the answer?

3)Am I doing something wrong with my cables, or do I just have defected cables?


Please guys, I need help!!! Thanks in advance.
Using component cables will improve things especially if the game has the option to to use 480p.

Don't forget that PS2 was never meant for hd gaming, so like watching sd tv its going to show on a plasma or any other fixed resolution display.

VaDix - you will need to have your PS2 connected the old way - via svid or composite; then go to setup, switch output to component. THEN it will work. - plug in your component cables, and you are all set.

Dunno why you don't like it - I'd have to blame the plasma's scaler - mine looks fine on my 10' screen.

Ohhhhhhhhhh, I see! I'm gonna try it now. Thank you so much guys.

Wow, what a difference component makes! Definitely a vast improvement. Thanks a lot, this is why I love this forum.

DVI is approximately equal to HDMI.

DVI and HDMI and component can all carry HD signals. Which is better is a matter of equipment and personal taste.

VGA is approximately equal to component, and much better than S-video.

S-video and composite are limited to 480i. No HD or progressive scan DVD. S-video is better.

Coaxial is to be avoided (except of course as the cable feed). Using it requires remodulating the video onto a TV channel and demodulating it at the other end. In this scenario it is also limited to 480i.

Hey Marty... thank you!

Can anyone here explain if there are any differences in composite cables vs component cables?

I realize component is probably one of the best ways to connect from source to monitor/tv but why can't I just use 3 cables that are labeled composite video and hook them up to the component connection?

They both seem to built with rca connectors on the end. Other than the color of the connectors I is there any other difference such as how the actual wire is built?

Generally, none. While cables used for component video must be able to pass a greater bandwidth signal, cables designed for composite video are typically easily capable of doing so as well. There are differences between cables in how "flat" they are in response across the range of frequencies that either type of signal presents, but you could just as easily find a better cable among those "designed" for composite as you could among component cables.

Mostly it makes little difference, as long as either is a reliable, durable, and well shielded 75 ohm cable.

Is there a noticable difference between usining component and HDMI on the Vizio?
Right now im using component.

Thanks
Joe

Besides Monoprice, are there any other companies that sell inexpensive but great quality cables? I need to get component and hdmi cables but Monoprice doesnt have hdmi cables in stock
Just get the 28AWG cables, they work fine.

My experience with a power conditioner from Panamax. I won't make the mistake of buying from them again:

I had a miniscule power hit the other day that took out my TiVo series 1 hard disk (it gets to the startup screen and just sits there). Ah, but lucky me -- I paid $400 for a Panamax power conditioner, which has a connected equipment warranty, so at least I'm covered, right?

WRONG!!!

It turns out that, in order to get coverage, I have to:
1. ship my panamax unit back to Panamax (cost, around $18)
2. get an authorized repair center to diagnose my TiVo and produce something on company letterhead saying that the problem is the hard disk (around $18 shipping, and probably $30-60 in labor for the diagnosis)

And then, if the lab Panamax chooses to evaluate their unit says that it's not their fault, they cover nothing.

So, in the case where the symptoms are well known and perfectly clear (just do a search here on "Startup" -- and I had this happen once before, which is why I bought the Panamax in the first place, so I know from whence I speak) it's going to cost me close to $100 out of pocket just to have the possibility of getting the warranty fulfilled.

What a load of crap. For the cost of this stupid Panamax power conditioner I could replace the disk on my TiVo at least twice. Talk to Panamax customer "service" and all they give is the stonewall party line.

So that's my warning -- before you buy something that supposedly guarantees your equipment, read the fine print. Of course, you don't get the fine print until you open the box after you've paid for it...so maybe I should say read the fine print during the return period!

I have the Panny TH-42PX60U with an HD box from TWC. My current set up is running the cable line to the STB then into the TV I also have HDMI cable going from the STB to the TV.

Is this the best connection?
I read in another post that it might be better to split the cable coming in then going directly to the TV and other to STB.

Anyone have any opinions on this.

Direct connections to the TV will always be best. Since you have a PX60U w/TWC STB... the best connection to use is HDMI but try the component connection too because TWs STBs are low-end stuff which may render a better picture with component (set to pass-thru) rather than HDMI.

My question is about AWG. Apparently, lower AWG (24 as opposed to 28) is better? Monoprice seems to be the only retailer that actually sells different AWG levels.

What is AWG and does it make a difference? I have a 50-inch Panasonic consumer plasma, if it makes a difference (TH-50PX60U).

(If this helps: It looks like 28 AWG cables have ferrite cores. What does this mean?)

My experience with a power conditioner from Panamax. I won't make the mistake of buying from them again:

I had a miniscule power hit the other day that took out my TiVo series 1 hard disk (it gets to the startup screen and just sits there). Ah, but lucky me -- I paid $400 for a Panamax power conditioner, which has a connected equipment warranty, so at least I'm covered, right?

WRONG!!!

It turns out that, in order to get coverage, I have to:
1. ship my panamax unit back to Panamax (cost, around $18)
2. get an authorized repair center to diagnose my TiVo and produce something on company letterhead saying that the problem is the hard disk (around $18 shipping, and probably $30-60 in labor for the diagnosis)

And then, if the lab Panamax chooses to evaluate their unit says that it's not their fault, they cover nothing.

So, in the case where the symptoms are well known and perfectly clear (just do a search here on "Startup" -- and I had this happen once before, which is why I bought the Panamax in the first place, so I know from whence I speak) it's going to cost me close to $100 out of pocket just to have the possibility of getting the warranty fulfilled.

What a load of crap. For the cost of this stupid Panamax power conditioner I could replace the disk on my TiVo at least twice. Talk to Panamax customer "service" and all they give is the stonewall party line.

So that's my warning -- before you buy something that supposedly guarantees your equipment, read the fine print. Of course, you don't get the fine print until you open the box after you've paid for it...so maybe I should say read the fine print during the return period!

Why would you ever buy something with such a warranty and not read the fine print up front?

I do not recommend the Panamax power conditioners, but have found that their lower end products are sufficient to protect most systems. One must understand, however, that the most important aspect of protection is the grounding of the system. It is also necessary to be sure that ALL connections to your system go through the protector. Just having a shield path through an interconnect to another system can provide a path for damage. A loose ground clamp on the a.c. service ground or improperly grounded cable or sat installs can also create problems that even the best surge protectors cannot prevent.

Panamax has some of the best products in MOV base surge suppressors. I doubt that any other brand of similar product would have prevented your failure.

My question is about AWG. Apparently, lower AWG (24 as opposed to 28) is better? Monoprice seems to be the only retailer that actually sells different AWG levels.

What is AWG and does it make a difference? I have a 50-inch Panasonic consumer plasma, if it makes a difference (TH-50PX60U).

(If this helps: It looks like 28 AWG cables have ferrite cores. What does this mean?)
Anything under 15ft, the 28AWG is fine. AWG refers to the thickness of the wires in the cable. Lower AWG is thicker.

Ferrite cores are used to reduce emissions from the cable.

I need some help using control with HDMI, which I think they also call HDAVI control. My TV and home theater both support it and they are connected with an HDMI cable. I want to be able to use my home theater speakers when watching TV, but right now they only work with DVDs. The manual wasn't much help so I was playing around with the settings and for a minute I thought I figured it out because HDMI audio output was disabled by default on the DVD player, but enabling it didn't do anything. Is it possible for this to work with only the HDMI cable or do I need additional audio cables connecting to the TV? My TV is a Panasonic TH-37PX60U and the home theater system is a Panasonic SC-HT940.

guys...

do you think that a Monster Reference PowerCenter HTS 3500 MKII would suffice for an Elite 1130HD, Toshiba HD-A1 HDDVD and a Onix Melody SP3 Tube amplifier?

:) thank you.

Is there a big difference in PQ between the High Quality 24AWG and the 28AWG HDMI cables that monoprice is selling? The 24AWGs are now back in stock so I'm going to order now but I'm just wondering whether the premium is justified

There is no difference in PQ. IMO anything less than 15ft, just go with the 28AWG. Go with the 24AWG or thicker if you need longer cables or the 28AWG are not in stock.

Is there a noticable difference between usining component and HDMI on the Vizio?
Right now im using component.

I've got the 42" Vizio with both the tv and upconverting dvd player hooked up with monoprice HDMI cables and the 5x1 router. The picture looks fantastic. I didn't think there was a major difference between the component and HDMI cables at first glance, only that HDMI looked a little softer, but once I used the calibration dvd (avia) the pictre looks really, really good. I'm sure the same would be true with the component cables, but I definitely preferred HDMI. The colors are better and the initial "softness" was made crisper after calibration. I watched King Kong last night and was absolutely amazed by the picture.

I'm going to purchase a Panny 42PWD8UK tonight and was wondering about PQ with S-Video versus BNC connections. The 42PWD8UK comes with S-Video, BNC and I think VGA boards preinstalled on it.

From the looks of things I've found by searching the forum, it is better to use the BNC than the S-Video, right?

And if I use the BNC, I'll have to use an adapter down from component RCA, right?

I'm not using HD at this time, only SD via DTV. It has S and RCA out, as well as my DVD player. How would you use these incoming connections knowing what boards are on the 42PWD8UK?

Thanks ahead of time!!!

I was just shopping for a Belink PureAV power conditioner for my updated HT setup...

Heads up! Amazon has some smokin' deals right now, I have no idea why there are so cheap. But if you want a PF31, PF40, or PF60, go to Amazon.com and check it out.

Me, I got a staggeringly good deal on a PF40, which I'd have never paid full price for but at this price, why not?

I would use the the S-Video to connect your SD set top box to the TV, and the component to connect your DVD player to the TV using RCA/BNC adapters. If/when you get an HD set top box, you can get a special component to VGA cable to plug into the TV's VGA port.

I would use the the S-Video to connect your SD set top box to the TV, and the component to connect your DVD player to the TV using RCA/BNC adapters. If/when you get an HD set top box, you can get a special component to VGA cable to plug into the TV's VGA port.

right on. ;)

I was just shopping for a Belink PureAV power conditioner for my updated HT setup...

Heads up! Amazon has some smokin' deals right now, I have no idea why there are so cheap. But if you want a PF31, PF40, or PF60, go to Amazon.com and check it out.

Me, I got a staggeringly good deal on a PF40, which I'd have never paid full price for but at this price, why not?

Did you check out http://www.provantage.com ? I have found their prices on the PureAV consoles and UPS to be unbeatable.

I have a question about the PureAV PF40. In the manual under remote control it says the following:

Connect the 2-pronged male end of the Remote AC Control Cable into a
switched power outlet on a preamplifier or receiver. When you turn on
the receiver or preamplifier, the outlets on the Power Console that are
programmed as “Switched” will be turned on immediately and the
“Switched/ Delayed” outlets will come on after an 8 second delay.

Now if I read this correctly, You plug the PF40 into the wall and run the remote power cord to the switched outlet on your receiver. Then when you turn on the receiver, the PF40 comes on. However, if the receiver is plugged into one of the switched outlets on the PF40, and these outlets are not active until the PF40 comes on, then how do you turn the receiver on? Wouldn't the receiver have to be plugged into an unswitched outlet or wouldn't the switched outlet on the PF40 have to be in the on position in order for the receiver to power up? What am I missing here?

Now if I read this correctly, You plug the PF40 into the wall and run the remote power cord to the switched outlet on your receiver. Then when you turn on the receiver, the PF40 comes on. However, if the receiver is plugged into one of the switched outlets on the PF40, and these outlets are not active until the PF40 comes on, then how do you turn the receiver on? Wouldn't the receiver have to be plugged into an unswitched outlet or wouldn't the switched outlet on the PF40 have to be in the on position in order for the receiver to power up? What am I missing here?

Receiver would have to be on a non-switched outlet so that it can come on with the remote.

This feature is for things like powered subs that pop if turned on at the same time as the receiver. This way the receiver comes on. A short delay later, the powered subs/speaker can come on without any disturbing audio pop.

Bettercables is the highest price.......then bluejeans.......with monoprice being the least expensive.

I'm looking for HMDI, componet and optical cables in 2 meter lengths.

Thanks!

just purchased a hdmi/dvi cacle from monoprice for 1/10th the price I paid for the same cable a year ago from circuit city

Ordering (2) HDMI cables, and want to be sure I don't need anything else.

SA-8300 STB to Panny XR57 via HDMI
Panny XR57 to Panny 42PX60U via HDMI
Panny E80H DVD to Panny XR57 via component and toslink
SA-8300 STB to Panny E80H DVD via component and toslink

Is that all I need? Can I assume the XR57 will feed everything to the TV via that one HDMI cable? Does the feed from the STB go thru the receiver to TV without turning on the receiver, or do I need to run another set of component from STB to TV?

Did you check out http://www.provantage.com ? I have found their prices on the PureAV consoles and UPS to be unbeatable.
Never heard of Provantage. WOW, those prices are very very cheap. I thought I got a good deal!

Well, I did get a good deal. I bought a device that retails for $550 for $150-ish?? I mean, I know about markup on electronics, but to be able to buy a device for about 35% of the retail price -- note that is 35% OF the retail price, not 35% OFF the retail price...

What's up with that kind of pricing? Are they dumping these PureAV models soon or is the markup really that high? The devices are reportedly very well made. There's a picture in this review that shows the inside:

http://www.laaudiofile.com/belkinpf60.html

It doesn't look like a cheap device. So why so cheap?? I guess I shouldn't complain.

Has anyone actually ordered from Proadvantage? I am a little put off by two things. One, the item is not returnable. And two, it is listed as "special order". What's witth that? jgerry, where did you purchase yours? ANd how do you like it?

Has anyone actually ordered from Proadvantage? I am a little put off by two things. One, the item is not returnable. And two, it is listed as "special order". What's witth that? jgerry, where did you purchase yours? ANd how do you like it?

I got my PF40 from Provantege.

I had the exact same concerns as you. When I placed the order, it was listed as "special order". Subsequently I have seen it show up in their inventory and gradually going down back to "special order" status. So it looks like they are doing frequent sales.

Once I placed the order, it remained in "awaiting confirmation from warehouse" state for a little over a week. Then suddenly, it shifted to "shipped" and tracking number was available at the website. Once shipped, it arrived in the normal 3-4 day ground shipping time.

The shipment iself arrived double boxed. But the other box looked quite beatup and I was a little worried. However, the inner box looked like new and had no marks of abuse.

In the end, it everything worked out fine for me :)

Thanks for the info SteelyFan

Provantage is a solid company. I've ordered multiple times without any real issues. One time they shipped the wrong item. Called their CS, spoke to nice rep, arranged for pickup at their cost and cross ship of the correct item. I was impressed with how professional they were.

Well I just ordered one from them so if there are any problems, I will be calling SteelyFan and sfhub! :)

I ordered my PF40 through Amazon's web site, but it's coming from another vendor. Amazon I think has some sort of partner program, I don't know for sure. What I do know is that if there's a problem, I can deal with Amazon. That's all I really care about.

TARHEEL72: I haven't received my PF40 yet so I can't comment on how much I like it. I don't expect it to be the greatest thing ever, but it gives me a little peace of mind. I'm convinced that my entire house has electrical demons (some light bulbs blow once a month, some never in 6 years, random line noise, etc) and my equipment needs to be protected. I blew through three DVD players in 2 years, then put a basic APS computer grade line conditioner on my audio & video gear. Since then, no issues. And less video noise. The PF40 is meant to replace that piece of equipment since my new DLP TV evidently doesn't like the lower grade power conditioners.

I've been considering a whole house power conditioning system, but that's a hard bill to swallow ($5000+) since it'll be very difficult to ever get that money back when I sell my house. Landscaping and a jacuzzi is easier to justify to prospective buyers than a dorky electrical conditioning system. :)

I've been considering a whole house power conditioning system, but that's a hard bill to swallow ($5000+) since it'll be very difficult to ever get that money back when I sell my house. Landscaping and a jacuzzi is easier to justify to prospective buyers than a dorky electrical conditioning system. :)


THat is of course unless you put a price tag on your own personal peace of mind. Not to mention the components that last more than their warrantees.

I guess it is matter of your wiring and your powerfeed/draws.

Guess I am luckier in that all we have to deal with upping the service to 200 amps and rewiring the aluminum wiring from the '70s that came with our house.

Surely there is an inexpensive (other than th $5K) to your scenario.

Where does one find info on a whole house power conditioning system? Does the $5000 est. include labor?

Well I just ordered one from them so if there are any problems, I will be calling SteelyFan and sfhub! :)

Oh-oh. Time to delete AVS login account.
;)

Where does one find info on a whole house power conditioning system? Does the $5000 est. include labor?
I have a couple of very wealthy friends who've had these types of systems installed. I don't know much more about it other than they said the cost was about $5000, installed.

Hi...new here, been learning a lot from all of you. Have a new Panasonic TH42PX60U that's been waiting in the garage for it's new home to arrive. Well, furniture comes this week, so it's time to disconnect the old and set up the HDTV.

Here's what I have and how I think it should be connected. We use Comcast Cable, but currently do not have a cable box. In reading other threads it seems like I should have comcast come and 'install' the digital HD service. They should check the signal strength and hopefully replace coax if it is not the correct type (RG-6). Coax is at least 20 years old, don't know how long RG-6 has been used.

Panasonic TH42PX60U
Marantz SR7000 A/V receiver - does not have component connections, but does have 2 optical digital inputs, 3 coaxial digital inputs and two digital outputs 1 of each. There's ample supply of composite and S-video inputs.
Toshiba SD-3109 DVD player (which will probably be upgraded to newer progressive scan player)
Unknown Comcast Cable Box

Cable Box is first- Coax Antenna to Tv; Component Video to TV & Audio to Tv.
From the TV - Is it just the Video & Audio LR to the Receiver? using old composite cables.
DVD will connect to receiver same as now using composite cables.

Is it this simple or am I missing something? Should I use the S-video connections?
The diagram in receiver manual shows a possible digital optic connection from a satellite tuner (cable box?) into the receiver...is this something that needs to be done?

Everytime I think I know how it all works, I read something else and get confused.

Thanks for any advice!

Skip the coax connection from the cable box to the set. Split the cable signal before the box and send basic cable to the TV for the best pix on analog channels.

Skip the coax connection from the cable box to the set. Split the cable signal before the box and send basic cable to the TV for the best pix on analog channels.


Ok. Does that mean, if I'm watching a non-digital channel, I would use Tv tuner & remote and when I watch digital it would go thru cable box & it's remote?
Do I have to keep switching settings or something? Sorry I don't have Tv hooked up yet, so maybe I'm missing something. :confused:

Thanks

Skip the coax connection from the cable box to the set. Split the cable signal before the box and send basic cable to the TV for the best pix on analog channels.

Not necessarily. My analog channels actually got better when I got digital cable from Comcast.

As for all of those questions concerning cable hook ups, here is my take on it: There is not much for Comcast to do to get you up and running. The odds of them replacing any cable are very remote, they just won't do it. They will run the coax from the wall to the box and that is about it. You can connect the video from the digital box to your TV via component to get your HDTV reception. This will also carry all other channels. If you want to do a split, go for it, and then do a comparison to see if it makes the analog any better. If it does, then you can use the cable/antenna input to watch analog and the cable box component iniput to watch digital channels (all digital channels, not just high definition channels) Run the audio from the cable box to the receiver via either optical or coaxial, whichever you prefer.

The disadvantage in having two cable video connections is that you will not be able to watch the analog video on the antenna/cable input and still use the digital audio output on the cable box, there will be issues with audio/video synch. You will have to either use the TV speakers or get the audio out of the tv and back to some input on your receiver, which you would then use when watching the antenna input on the TV. SInce none of the audio on the analog channels would be 5.1 DD anyway, you can use simple L/R RCA composite cables for this.

As for the DVD, you want to use anything that you can besides composite. If your only other choice for video is S video then run that to the TV and use an optial or coaxial audio output to the receiver for your 5.1 DD surround. You mentioned that you were using composite audio now, but I can't believe that your DVD player does not have some sort of a digital audio output. If it doesn't have at least an optical output I would go get a $50 DVD player at any big box store or even Target/WalMart. At least you will be able to have DD surround sound.

With this set up you should be able to watch HDTV and have DD 5.1 audio for both DVD and HDTV. Not familiar with your TV, but if it has either a DVI or a HDMI connection, you would want to use that instead of component for your video via the Comcast box. You can get either an adaptor or a DVI-HDMI cable, if the units have one connection of each. For instance, my Comcast box is DVI-D and the TV is HDMI.

Ok. Does that mean, if I'm watching a non-digital channel, I would use Tv tuner & remote and when I watch digital it would go thru cable box & it's remote?
Do I have to keep switching settings or something? Sorry I don't have Tv hooked up yet, so maybe I'm missing something. :confused:

Thanks
That almost always gives you a better pix than using the analog tuner in the cable box. You can program a remote to do the changes if you want to. I just swicht modes on the cable box remote.

It is very rare to get superior analog performance out of the cable convertors.

I currently have the HTS 3500. I was wondering from switching to the new HTS 7000 if i would notice a differnece in picture/audio quality? This is basically my current set up:

Not likely to see any difference at all.

the msrp for the pf60 and pf40 now is $450 and $350

i've had the belkin pf40 for about 6 months, no problems with it. the only problem i had was the first one i got from my dealer had a bad lcd screen, on the voltage and amp reading the numbers were half gone. other than that i can't ask for anything more than to have an option to completely turn off the backlighing.

i might check this model out later on, last september they said it will cost $1200 msrp
http://catalog.belkin.com/PureAV_detail.process?Product_Id=258472#

here's a high res pic of it
http://images.belkin.com/ap51300-10/PRN1_ap51300-10.jpg

anyone know when this thing is coming out?

I'm confused, does this have surge protection???? It appears to have it in the specs but isn't layed out in the description "surge protection"

Looking to run some romex from my current wall outlet up the wall to provide a surge protected outlet behind my plasma. Want to stay in code.

Anyone have insight on this?

Here's a thread that might help, if not you can always bump it with your question.:)

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=649532&highlight=Panamax+Surcge+Protection

I'm confused, does this have surge protection???? It appears to have it in the specs but isn't layed out in the description "surge protection"

Looking to run some romex from my current wall outlet up the wall to provide a surge protected outlet behind my plasma. Want to stay in code.

Go to their web site and look at the specs. Yes, it does have surge protection, that is its purpose.

Any good web sites with good wiring diagrams for HT set-up?

I'm having a hard time getting Toslink sound and Component video at the same time from my DVD player/recorder.

STB (SA8300): HDMI to XR57 to 42PX60U (no problems)
Component: E80H (DVD) to XR57 to 42PX60U (Comp1)
Toslink: E80H to XR57 (Opt1)

I set the XR57 on "DVD" and TV on "Component1" and get sound, no picture.
I set the TV on "Cable" (HDMI), I get picture, no sound.

Do I need to run the Component cable directly from DVD to TV (ignoring the XR57)?
Or do I need to run a Toslink from TV to receiver? None of the wiring diagrams in any manuals seem to consider an HDMI STB, and labels on all equipment are quite different....

Any good web sites with good wiring diagrams for HT set-up?

I'm having a hard time getting Toslink sound and Component video at the same time from my DVD player/recorder.

STB (SA8300): HDMI to XR57 to 42PX60U (no problems)
Component: E80H (DVD) to XR57 to 42PX60U (Comp1)
Toslink: E80H to XR57 (Opt1)

I set the XR57 on "DVD" and TV on "Component1" and get sound, no picture.
I set the TV on "Cable" (HDMI), I get picture, no sound.

Do I need to run the Component cable directly from DVD to TV (ignoring the XR57)?
Or do I need to run a Toslink from TV to receiver? None of the wiring diagrams in any manuals seem to consider an HDMI STB, and labels on all equipment are quite different....

There are a lot of ways to answer your question. I am not familiar with your AVR, but in many you have to assign certain inputs to certain sources. For Instance, in my AVR, each source (say DVD) can have an input assigned to it. It could be Optical 1, Coaxil 1, or simply RCA analog inputs. I do this in the AVR menu. Maybe you need to do this. I don't have HDMI pass through, only component, but maybe you have to assign your HDMI input to an audio souce, since that is where the audio signal is located for that component. Also is your AVR upconverting all of your video signals to HDMI? If so, that means that your composite, S video and component video is being up converted to HDMI and it all is sent over the same HDMI output cable, so you woul dleave the TV on the HDMI input and view all of your video signals over this one input on the display. You use the AVR to change the source of the video signal.

If you are doing nothing but sending the STB to the display via HDMI, then you should and will only get sound out of the TV and not out of your HT system controlled by the AVR. You will either have to send the sound back into the receiver from the TV, via a optical out for instance, or send the sound direct to the AVR from the STB. If you get no sound from the TV, then there is something not right either in the STB, the HDMI cable, or the display's HDMI imput. Make sure the STB is set to output audio via the HDMI cable. It should default to this if it is sending the picture, but maybe not. You might have to tell it to send the audio as well as the video, assuming you want to listen to the audio on the TV speakers and not your HT system.

My other advice would be to forget about running video through the AVR and go direct to the display, and see if this clears things up. Run the HDMI to the display for STB video, but run the audio direct to the AVR. Then turn the display on and set it to the proper video input. Turn the AVR on and set it to the proper audio imput. The display should have the picture and the AVR should have the audio. If not, there might be a problem with your source. If you are passing your component video through the AVR and it is not reaching the display, the first thing I would do is by pass the AVR and hook up direct to the TV and see if you get the picture. If so, then you know the problem is with the pass through or the settings and not the cable or component input on the TV. It could be some switch you have to engage on the AVR, but if it works without passing through the AVR, I would use that connection. If you are only using one component input anyway, then it will make no difference. It just means you change the input on the TV instead of the input on the AVR.

You might also be interested in this posting. It concerns video issues, but maybe audio is affected as well:

Be prepared for HDMI hell with the 8300HD. Occasionally, the 8300HD will decide that your TV is not HDCP compatible, and refuse to output a picture over HDMI. You can prevent this from happening sometimes by turning on the TV several seconds before turning on the STB.
Apparently, some cable companies have fixed this problem with a firmware update, but many have not, so you might luck out and not have this problem.

There are a lot of ways to answer your question. I am not familiar with your AVR, but in many you have to assign certain inputs to certain sources. For Instance, in my AVR, each source (say DVD) can have an input assigned to it. It could be Optical 1, Coaxil 1, or simply RCA analog inputs. I do this in the AVR menu. Maybe you need to do this.

If you are doing nothing but sending the STB to the display via HDMI, then you should and will only get sound out of the TV and not out of your HT system controlled by the AVR. You will either have to send the sound back into the receiver from the TV, via a optical out for instance, or send the sound direct to the AVR from the STB. If you get no sound from the TV, then there is something not right either in the STB, the HDMI cable, or the display's HDMI imput. Make sure the STB is set to output audio via the HDMI cable. It should default to this if it is sending the picture, but maybe not. You might have to tell it to send the audio as well as the video, assuming you want to listen to the audio on the TV speakers and not your HT system.

My other advice would be to forget about running video through the AVR and go direct to the display, and see if this clears things up. Run the HDMI to the display for video, but run the audio direct to the AVR. Then turn the display on and set it to the proper video input. Turn the AVR on and set it to the proper audio imput. The display should have the picture and the AVR should have the audio. If not, there might be a problem with your source (DVD,STB) If you are passing your component video through the AVR and it is not reaching the display, the first thing I would do is by pass the AVR and hook up direct to the TV and see if you get the picture. If so, then you know the problem is with the pass through and not the cable, tv setting or component input on the TV. It could be some switch you have to engage on the AVR, but if it works without passing through the AVR, I would use that connection. If you are only using one component input anyway, then it will make no difference. It just means you change the input on the TV instead of the input on the AVR.

I'm using a Comcast HD box and my first fear would be when the HDMI signal was detected, the Comcast box would disable the Coax audio output to my Audio system. Luckily, I was able to simply disable the sound on my screen, and take advantage of direct Coax sound output from the cable box. Got lucky on that one! Because my optical ports on Audio system are already in use so it would have cause headaches.

As I said, I have no HDMI problems. I have HDMI going from the 8300 to the AVR, and from the AVR to the TV. Great picture, great sound (when watching TV).

The problem is with te DVD (E80H). I'll try going directly from the DVD to the TV (component), I think that should fix the problem. The DVD does not have HDMI or DVI.

I "thought" that all AV to the AVR would get channeled through the AVR to TV HDMI connection, I don't think that can happen. Only HDMI to HDMI and/or Component to Component. No Component to HDMI.

As I said, I have no HDMI problems. I have HDMI going from the 8300 to the AVR, and from the AVR to the TV. Great picture, great sound (when watching TV).

The problem is with te DVD (E80H). I'll try going directly from the DVD to the TV (component), I think that should fix the problem. The DVD does not have HDMI or DVI.

I "thought" that all AV to the AVR would get channeled through the AVR to TV HDMI connection, I don't think that can happen. Only HDMI to HDMI and/or Component to Component. No Component to HDMI.

Whether or not it upconverts all of your video to HDMI I can't answer. I would say that if you have both a component and a HDMI output from the AVR then it must not be upconverting and just passing the signal through. If the only output is HDMI than it must be upconverting to HDMI, and if that is the case it would not send an audio signal when upconverting the component cable connection, just the video signal.

You said "I set the TV on "Cable" (HDMI), I get picture, no sound". I took that to mean your STB. If you were thinking that you could get audio from your DVD over the HDMI cable via upconversion, I don't think that will happen.

"Set the TV on Cable"... is the input selection on the TV. I only have 2 inputs active, one is "Comp1" (I have labeled "DVD"), the other is "HDMI1" which I have labeled "Cable" since it's coming from the STB (through the AVR).

I have component cables from the DVD to the AVR, the AVR to the TV. I think the problem is when I set the TV for "DVD" input, it's getting the Toslink sound but no component video. I can switch the TV input to HDMI, and I get the DVD picture, but no sound.

I'll try a Toslink from TV digital out to the AVR, and maybe I can leave the TV on HDMI for all viewing. Or I'll just go straight from DVD to TV, that should work.

"Set the TV on Cable"... is the input selection on the TV. I only have 2 inputs active, one is "Comp1" (I have labeled "DVD"), the other is "HDMI1" which I have labeled "Cable" since it's coming from the STB (through the AVR).

I have component cables from the DVD to the AVR, the AVR to the TV. I think the problem is when I set the TV for "DVD" input, it's getting the Toslink sound but no component video. I can switch the TV input to HDMI, and I get the DVD picture, but no sound.

I'll try a Toslink from TV digital out to the AVR, and maybe I can leave the TV on HDMI for all viewing. Or I'll just go straight from DVD to TV, that should work.

Based on your postings I don't know how you are getting the Optical audio to the TV, as I do not see where you said you are running Optical out from the AVR to the TV. However, if you can set the TV to "Cable" which is the HDMI input and you see the DVD picture, then that means your AVR is upconverting your component cable to HDMI and is not sending a signal over the component out. It is defaulting to the highest definition video signal available, which in our case is the HDMI. Howwever, it is not capable of upconverting an audio signal and also sending it over the HDMI, so the audio from the DVD will have to go direct to the TV if you want to use the TV speakers, or you will have to go direct to the AVR audio input fo rthe DVD or assign the audio input to the DVD source.

I assume when you say its gettign the sound you mean the AVR and not the TV. You are using the HT speakers aren't you, or do you use the TV speakers for everything? If oyu are using TV speakers then there is no reason to run any audio cable to the AVR at all. For that matter, why have the AVR?

Not using TV speakers for much of anything (except wife won't use AVR while watching TV).

Actually, when the TV gets the DVD picture, it gets the TV station sound, unless I turn off the STB, then it gets no sound. The TV has an optical out, I'll try that to the AVR. If that fails, I'll just run component from DVD to TV and leave the optical connection as-is (DVD to AVR).

I am just happy the HDMI from STB to AVR to TV works well. I can watch my stuff, then turn off the AVR, and the HDMI still passes through the AVR to the TV, and wife doesn't need to do anything but push the TV off/on and channel buttons (so she's happy too, until she tries to play a DVD...)

OK, I think I am getting it now. Bear with me.

The STB HDMI is passing through the AVR to the TV. It carries both sound and video. The TV can display the picture and the sound can be heard via the AVR if it is on and set to the proper source. If the AVR is off and you want to hear sound via the TV speakers, that's fine since the audio is getting there via the HDMI.

The DVD is another story. It is routed to the AVR via component cable and an optical audio link. The component cable to the TV does not work, as all component video is being upconvered to HDMI, so as long as you do the pass through the only way to watch any video signal connected to the AVR is to set the TV on HDMI "cable" input and control the source with the AVR, not the TV. As for DVD audio, you can run the optical direct to the TV and hear it via the TV speakers, but you may have to do some switching on the TV to tell it to ignore the HDMI audio input and instead use the optical audio input. Then you would also run an optical out of the TV to the AVR so you could also listen to DVD audio via the AVR. Just be sure the TV will pass a 5.1 DD signal out via its optical output, some will only pass 2.0 or 2.1 PCM signal out. If on the other hand you run your DVD audio out to the AVR, you can listen to the DVD by selecting the source on the AVR but there would be no sound from the TV speakers, you would only be able to obtain audio via the AVR.

Does that make sense?

I think I'm out of gas here, you are on your own now! Good luck. :)

One more thought, you might be able to run an optical out from the DVD to the TV and a coaxil out from the DVD to the AVR and get audio going to both sources. However, the sticky issue will still be having the TV switch from the audio input via HDMI to audio input via optical. YOu might also experience some audio/video sync issues with this, as the video is being passed through but the audio is a direct input.

Wanted to re-post for more traffic since my question was buried in another thread. Note: I understand the problems with power cords behind the wall. Here is original post...

Hi guys. Newbie here and I am looking at wiring in a somewhat similar way to darrelj and would like some input:

I am at the wiring stage of a new house and I have asked the electrician to dedicate a circuit that will feed to my closet (where all AV equipment will be housed). My electrician will not install Romex as an "extension cord" from the closet to two on-wall plasmas (bedroom, 10 ft away; living room, 15 feet away) as it is against code. He can, however, run Romex (with power) to the plasmas (using clock outlets) on the same circuit that goes to the closet using the closet box as a junction.

After completion of the house (thereafter not his liability), I would like to go in to the closet junction box and disconnect the lines to the plasma, run them to another outlet box (labeled as non-powered outlet) that I would install next to the existing outlet box, and hook both of the wires going to the plasma into a surge protector that will be used for AV equipment. Seems then that my only cost would be another outlet and a couple of male to male cables.

Does this seem reasonable? Any code violations? Any issues with all AV equipment being on a dedicated line?

Think you got it... TV should output 5.1, it only has an optical out, no optical in. I had just received my XR57 yesterday, so didn't really have time to work the problem out last night, should be able to tonight, and will post what worked. All I can say now is the 42PX60U is phenomenal, and pretty sure the XR57 is too!

I answered your question already. Having power come out of a male plug and into a receptacle is completely bogus. If you need this explained, contact your local electrical inspector. The ones I talked to about this, which like all questions on the forum has come up before, used words like "moron" and "stupid".

Yes, martyj, you did provide one example of a violation, and I appreciate it. But perhaps there are other issues (code or otherwise) that I have not thought about. I took your original answer to imply that there may be more issues, but the male-to-male plug was the obvious one. For that reason, I wanted more input, so I re-posted.

As I stated in both posts, I am a newbie. Hence, I appreciate any and all advice. However, to imply that my question is moronic and stupid, is a poor reflection on you. Perhaps this is your area of expertise, it certainly is not mine. But if you were to ask a question in my area of expertise (and believe me I've heard some interesting questions), I would not reply with such a demeanor.

Have you thought about this.....

http://www.panamax.com/products.cfm?group=22&sec=detail&id=221&ly=h

Yes, martyj, you did provide one example of a violation, and I appreciate it. But perhaps there are other issues (code or otherwise) that I have not thought about. I took your original answer to imply that there may be more issues, but the male-to-male plug was the obvious one. For that reason, I wanted more input, so I re-posted.

As I stated in both posts, I am a newbie. Hence, I appreciate any and all advice. However, to imply that my question is moronic and stupid, is a poor reflection on you. Perhaps this is your area of expertise, it certainly is not mine. But if you were to ask a question in my area of expertise (and believe me I've heard some interesting questions), I would not reply with such a demeanor.

Just a bit of advise. There are some things in NEC that are there for the "moron factor" and although a code violation, are not really that dangerous if done with some thought behind them and the proper precautions. That being said, I would NOT do the cable with two male ends for the following reason. you will have a HOT male connector and if it pulls out it could cause a lot of problems

It sounds like what you're interested in is surge protection. I couldn't tell if the Panamax provides it, but there are hard wired code compliant surge suppressors available. One example is the Leviton 51120-1

Thanks. I've pretty much decided not to do the male-to-male cord. I have searched many threads and I'm leaning towards doing the panamax unit, but I still think somehow being able to get power from a higher-end surge protector in the closet to the plasmas on the wall is the way to go.

Someone, I think darrelj, on the original thread I posted on had what I thought seemed like a reasonable workaround, but there was some much discussion on how wrong that was, that I never saw a better solution. That's what I am hoping for in my thread.

Again, any advice is much appreciated.

Thanks. I've pretty much decided not to do the male-to-male cord. I have searched many threads and I'm leaning towards doing the panamax unit, but I still think somehow being able to get power from a higher-end surge protector in the closet to the plasmas on the wall is the way to go.

Someone, I think darrelj, on the original thread I posted on had what I thought seemed like a reasonable workaround, but there was some much discussion on how wrong that was, that I never saw a better solution. That's what I am hoping for in my thread.

Again, any advice is much appreciated.

The panamax link I posted will allow you to get power from a surge protector. I have one installed at my house.

Thanks. I've pretty much decided not to do the male-to-male cord. I have searched many threads and I'm leaning towards doing the panamax unit, but I still think somehow being able to get power from a higher-end surge protector in the closet to the plasmas on the wall is the way to go.

Someone, I think darrelj, on the original thread I posted on had what I thought seemed like a reasonable workaround, but there was some much discussion on how wrong that was, that I never saw a better solution. That's what I am hoping for in my thread.

Again, any advice is much appreciated.

I think you are referring to the power cord spliced into a wall junction box and then the romex running up to the power outlet.

This solution was pretty is still a code violation because the extension cord is being made part of a perminent installation. However, if done correctly, I believe it would be pretty safe.

If you just want to go though on wall, you could alway just frame out a hole in the wall and run all the cables into the next room that way.

The panamax link I posted will allow you to get power from a surge protector. I have one installed at my house.


I did look at that Panamax unit, but the $300 tag puts the kibosh on that since I will have two plasmas I need to protect. I did, however, notice that the black cord from that unit (which I assume goes the the surge protector) has some sort of female end. Is it possible to buy a receptacle/cord with that configuration; would that be a workaround for the male-to-male cord problem?

Also, thanks again everyone for the traffic.

Don't be 100% sure about the output. The Samsung HLS5687w 1080p set has optical out, and will pass a 5.1 DD OTA signal out, but any signal received via HDMI is not output in 5.1 DD, only PCM 2.0.

I think you might have to teach the wife how to use the AVR to get sound with a DVD. Buy someethign like a Harmony 880 where she just punch "Cable" or "DVD" and everything will switch automatically for her.

Okay, let me try this again. I do apologize for being too quick with the response earlier.

I went to the effort to ask an inspector about this because this is not at all the first time this has come up and although I was sure it was a code violation I couldn't immediately find the code section that addressed it. It is tempting to do when you want to have a remote power conditioner.

It was the inspector I spoke to who termed anyone who would put together something involving a hot male plug moronic and stupid. The question is certainly not stupid and I am hopeful that we can talk anyone who is considering it out of doing it. I mentioned that in the hope that it would impress on the reader how unusually upset the idea made the inspector.

The inspector told me it would be violated under code section 110.17 governing "guarding of live parts".

It is just too easy for someone who does not know what you have done to disconnect that hot male plug and shock themselves. It could be a cleaning lady, it could be someone's child, it could be you in a moment of inattention. It could result in something you would regret forever and in criminal or civil liability because it is so obviously bad practice and an accident waiting to happen.

Unfortunately the Panamax is the only unit we know of that has the appropriate thing, namely a "power inlet" that has the male connector. I did a fairly thorough search earlier and the only parts I could find were one for boats and the kind that every computer power supply has.

Well I just ordered one from them so if there are any problems, I will be calling SteelyFan and sfhub! :)

Got the PureAV PF-40 from Provantage delivered today. Painless process, shipped quickly via FedEx witih good tracking info, so all of you that recommended it to me are off the hook! I don't know how these guys can sell these things for $124, but that's a steal as far as I am concerned. Thanks for the feedback and advice.

Got it worked out. Ran component from DVD directly to TV, optical where I had it (DVD to XR57), and sounds great. Now the DVD works on the "DVD" input, and the STB works on the HDMI imput. Just need to keep HDMI and component totally separate. Now to search the subwoofer "HUM" threads... it's not bad as long as it's cord is laying "just right".

Think you got it... TV should output 5.1, it only has an optical out, no optical in. I had just received my XR57 yesterday, so didn't really have time to work the problem out last night, should be able to tonight, and will post what worked. All I can say now is the 42PX60U is phenomenal, and pretty sure the XR57 is too!

Got it worked out. Ran component from DVD directly to TV, optical where I had it (DVD to XR57), and sounds great. Now the DVD works on the "DVD" input, and the STB works on the HDMI imput. Just need to keep HDMI and component totally separate. Now to search the subwoofer "HUM" threads... it's not bad as long as it's cord is laying "just right".

Sounds like it is lying too close to a power cable.

Looking for a recommendation on something a little different that all the discussion here on plain HDMI switchers:

Current setup:
Two HD Tivos
Dtronics 4x1 DVI switch
to: Samsung HLN (DVI).

New addition: Tosh HD DVD (replacing a Bravo D1); the Tosh, of course, doesn't work with the current switcher.

Because of the fact that everything I have (except the display) is HDMI, and I run audio to the AVR, and because I may be getting other HDMI devices (BluRay DVD?), I'm looking for a good 4x1 or 5x1 remote-controlled HDMI/Toslink switcher.

Anyone have any recommendations of one in general, and in specific, one that is good with the sources above?

Thanks!

This seems too easy, will this work to give me adequate surge for a wall mounted plasam TV. Has the clock outlet recessed feature, and surge protection, for $49.95.

48409 PANAMAX PRO AC INSTALLATION PROTECTOR


http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i270/PatMcNJ/48409.jpg

Thanks all! Great message boards, very helpful thread!

Pat Mc

Thanks marty. I appreciate the advice and will take it to heart; i.e, no male-to-male plugs. After the last few posts, I can certainly understand why it would be a major no-no.

The Panamax unit ($300 variety) would seem the solution, except that it is prohibitively expensive. It looks like it is very similar running romex in-wall, except for the outlet connection opposite of the plasma outlet. Does anyone know if these type of connectors are available? I couldn't glean any info from the Panamax site to even get a name for that type of connector. Didn't see it anything like it at HD over the weekend either.

Can someone with the Belkin PureAV PF 60 explain what are the benefits of using the switched/ timed delay options are? I haven't been using them at all because I couldn't figure out what it was for or how to use it for that matter. Thanks

Continuing the discussion regarding a power cord spliced into a wall junction box and then the romex running up to the power outlet....

So again, I'm not an expert, but I looked at the Panamax MIW-PowerKit-TL specs and it appears as if they are using an AC power cord with twist-lock connectors of the ML-2P/R NEMA code. They state that it does not violate any NEC code.

So is it plausible for me to purchase a plug/receptacle of that nature and install in my closet? See links below:

http://www.hubbellcatalog.com/wiring/section-b-datasheet.asp?FAM=Locking_Devices&PN=HBL7593

http://www.hubbellcatalog.com/wiring/section-b-datasheet.asp?FAM=Locking_Devices&PN=HBL7551

Note: I understand non-powered romex is a violation, but I'm willing to live with that one. Interested in anyone's thoughts...thanks again.

BTW, I originally had this topic as its own post. Did a mod move it here? Its terribly confusing trying the find a workable solution to my problem when its nested in a potpourri of topics.

I'm looking for the best coaxial cable (not digital audio) I can get. I need some to run through the walls and then I also need a little bit to run from the wall to the TV. I did a little research and it looks like RG-6 is best for in-wall applications. Does this hold true for coaxial cable that is not being run through the wall? I don't know anything about the cable shielding or anything like that. What do I need to know to get good coaxial cable? Oh--and does it need to be certified to go in the wall?

RG-6 is a fine choice. Be sure to get the kind with copper wire, rather than copper coated steel. Installers often use it to make component cables with field installed RCA connectors. There are lower loss types such as RG-11 but they'd be used for things like the runs in the street and are not commonly sold retail. Also, don't use screw-on connectors (use crimp-on).

There are two kinds, RG-6 and RG-6 quad shield. You can use either, but be sure to get the terminators for the kind you have, since RG-6 quad shield is considerably larger in diameter.

RG-6 is good to go in the wall (it's normally type CATV that is certified for that use).

RG-6 is a fine choice. Be sure to get the kind with copper wire, rather than copper coated steel. Installers often use it to make component cables with field installed RCA connectors. There are lower loss types such as RG-11 but they'd be used for things like the runs in the street and are not commonly sold retail. Also, don't use screw-on connectors (use crimp-on).

There are two kinds, RG-6 and RG-6 quad shield. You can use either, but be sure to get the terminators for the kind you have, since RG-6 quad shield is considerably larger in diameter.

RG-6 is good to go in the wall (it's normally type CATV that is certified for that use).Ok. Also I will be using a STB if that makes a difference. When you say crimp-on connectors, you mean connectors that crimp on to the wire, or crimp on to the connector on the TV? Now by terminator do you mean connector?

And I mean is coaxial cable coaxial cable, or do I need to get a good namebrand? I.E. is monoprice coax any good?

I'll probably need no more than 50'.

I mean connectors that crimp on to the wire (actually on to the plastic covering). They screw on to the TV. Terminator equals connector.

I tend to buy coax at Home Depot, since they sell it by the foot. It's all going to be about the same -- and probably actually made by Belden or one of the other big wire companies. You can buy all the fittings there too.

I mean connectors that crimp on to the wire (actually on to the plastic covering). They screw on to the TV. Terminator equals connector.

I tend to buy coax at Home Depot, since they sell it by the foot. It's all going to be about the same -- and probably actually made by Belden or one of the other big wire companies. You can buy all the fittings there too.So the same stuff I use in the wall, I should use outside the walls also? And what should I look for in the terminators?

It's going to be run from my dish to a room. That won't make a difference, right? The reason I ask is because I have seen coax that says it is "satellite tuned".

And it says swept to 1ghz, swept to 3ghz, etc. What does this mean and should I consider it when I purchase coax?

Whoa! This is off subject but what is this for?

http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i72/rocca1290/untitled123.jpg

Whoa! This is off subject but what is this for?

http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i72/rocca1290/untitled123.jpg

lol, it looks like 5 color coded cables passing through conduit with shielding down the middle, in my opinion, rocko.

Whoa! This is off subject but what is this for?

http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i72/rocca1290/untitled123.jpg

It's for an "RGBHV" connection that uses 5 wires. You'll see them on professional and some antique computer monitors.

So the same stuff I use in the wall, I should use outside the walls also? And what should I look for in the terminators?

It's going to be run from my dish to a room. That won't make a difference, right? The reason I ask is because I have seen coax that says it is "satellite tuned".

And it says swept to 1ghz, swept to 3ghz, etc. What does this mean and should I consider it when I purchase coax?

You can use RG-6 both in and out of wall. Any crimp-on connector will be fine.

The "swept to" means that they have tested the cable with signals up to that frequency and it had acceptable performance.

Satellite uses higher frequencies than cable. This is why you need special 2 GHz splitters for satellite. Cable only goes up to 900MHz or so, so 1 GHz splitters and cable will work. This is the first you have mentioned you wanted to use it with a dish. You might consult with a satellite installer to make sure your parts are up to snuff before you do the work and end up having to do it twice.

Looking for a recommendation on something a little different that all the discussion here on plain HDMI switchers:

Current setup:
Two HD Tivos
Dtronics 4x1 DVI switch
to: Samsung HLN (DVI).

New addition: Tosh HD DVD (replacing a Bravo D1); the Tosh, of course, doesn't work with the current switcher.

Because of the fact that everything I have (except the display) is HDMI, and I run audio to the AVR, and because I may be getting other HDMI devices (BluRay DVD?), I'm looking for a good 4x1 or 5x1 remote-controlled HDMI/Toslink switcher.

Anyone have any recommendations of one in general, and in specific, one that is good with the sources above?

Thanks!


I have been googling and I found four models so far. All models have 4 HDMI/4 Toslink inputs and 1 HDMI/1 Toslink output (except Model 2 has a DVI-only output). To connect one of the models with HDMI output to your display which has a DVI input, you can use a HDMI male to DVI male cable or HMDI male to DVI female adapter with DVI cable or HDMI female to DVI male with HDMI cable. I think all of them accept 1080p inputs (perfect for new displays that accept 1080p input). A remote control is included with all models. Which one is best? I have no idea, sorry. BTW, I am thinking about buying one of them someday.

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Octava:

Model 1: (auto-switching sensor included)

http://www.octavainc.com/HDMI%20switch%204port_toslink.htm ( manual http://www.octavainc.com/image/install_guide_pdf/4x1%20%20HDMI%20Switch%20Guide_web.pdf)

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Gefen ( 2 models with outputs on the front = ugly):

Model 2:

http://www.gefen.com/kvm/product.jsp?prod_id=2654 (manual http://www.gefen.com/pdf/4x1%20HD%20Switcher%20with%20digital%20audio%20Manual.pdf)

Model 3:

http://www.htmarket.com/4x1hddiausww.html

------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Key Digital:

Model 4: ( a built-in scaler up to 1080p and video proccesor included - that's why it's most expensive)

http://www.digitalconnection.com/products/video/kdhdmi4x1.asp
http://www.keydigital.com/ProductDetail.aspx?categorycode=300&itemno=HDMI4x1&productname=
http://news.ecoustics.com/bbs/messages/10381/223943.html



New addition: Tosh HD DVD (replacing a Bravo D1); the Tosh, of course, doesn't work with the current switcher.



Your HD DVD player should be able to work with your DVI switcher using one of the adapters above.

Anyone have any experience with the Power Sentry brand of surge protectors, specifically the "Home Theater" surge protector that I have seen at Costco. I haven't found anything definitive on the brand here in AVS but it seems like a good deal if it works to protect my relatively sparse home theater (42 inch Panny being the main concern). I am sorry I do not have a model number for the device itself.

Anyone have any experience with the Power Sentry brand of surge protectors?

I bought this same surge protector at Wal-Mart and hooked up all my equipment to it (including 50" Panny plasma). Should do the job fine - has a Joule rating as high as some Monster brand protectors at less than half the price, and the Connected Equipment Warranty is 100 times greater than I should ever need!

Your HD DVD player should be able to work with your DVI switcher using one of the adapters above.
Paul, thanks for the info and I'll take a look at those. BTW, when I said the Tosh HD DVD wouldn't work with the Dtronics I have now, I didn't mean connector issues. I meant the switcher doesn't pass HDCP correctly. It's a known issue, and I was hoping someone would recommend a good HDMI switcher that did work with the Tosh DVD. :)

I'll check the DVD threads again, since I hate to purchase a switcher and then return it...

I bought this same surge protector at Wal-Mart and hooked up all my equipment to it (including 50" Panny plasma). Should do the job fine - has a Joule rating as high as some Monster brand protectors at less than half the price, and the Connected Equipment Warranty is 100 times greater than I should ever need!

I picked one up at Costco this weekend. Seemed suitable for the function and price to me too. Thanks for your input. I plan on plugging mine in this week.