Mark,

I've been meaning to post. You did a great job on the bar. I know that was a LOT of work and it shows.

Question -- why the frame around the electrical outlet? Why didn't you make the outlet flush with the front and used an oak electrical cover? Seems like your design was more work?

Steve - welcome post #500 :D

My reasoning initially for framing around the outlets was so they didn't fall within the acoustic treatments. However in planning I also was having issues where some of the styles on the main panelling were in same place as the receptacles - hence why why some are framed with the stye and others framed within the panel....was definitely more work but made for a consistent look.

Still debating what electrical covers to use. May use Oak but think a bronze to go with the sconces may look better. Going to apply some stain to the white receptacles to discolor them a bit so they don't stand out so much.

Cheers,
Mark

Beautiful work on the bar. Very rich looking.

Steve - welcome post #500 :D

My reasoning initially for framing around the outlets was so they didn't fall within the acoustic treatments.
Ahh -- I forgot you are planning to fill those "squares" with acoustical treatements. Knowing that now, I think your design will work out perfectly. Seems like I've been forgett'n a lot lately :o It must be because of all that junk food I ate as a kid -- or all the drink'n I did in College ;)

BTW -- I was post #501. Belcherwm was lucky #500 :)

Steve - actually the treatments are up......see post #467 & #475

Odd the index showed you as post #500 but see thread shows you as #501 - I see that Index is 'replies' and does not include my initial post. So ists congrats to Bill on post #500 and congrats to you on reply #500 :D

Cheers,
Mark

Although it seems I'm nearly finished still lots to do:
1) Switch/Receptacle covers
2) Bar Lights
3) Stage Light
4) Crown moulding + Rope Light
5) Star Ceiling (got the light box & Fibres)
6) Tidy the Cat 5e and RG6 in equip closet (waiting to see what gets install for FiOS & TV)
7) Equipment Rack
8) Equipment Closet Door / Faux Ticket Booth
9) Bar Cabinets, Counter, Sink and Beverage Cooler
10) Bar overhead canopy with custom frosted glass
11) Bar hardwood flooring
12) Base Moulding (sitting in Garage)
13) Stain and paint the HT Entrance Door
14) Cover Proscenium (Got the black Dazian Expo cloth)
15) Seating (ordered ETA before christmas :D )
16) Base Shakers (already purchased)
17) Stero Receiver to drive Bass Shakers
18) Screen - probably DIY SMX
19) Possible rear sound in-ceiling speakers
20) Movie Posters, Lithographs and British Pub pics.

This weekend got to rip out a fireplace a prepare for new one so possible not much will get done in HT.....however got all next week off :

Cheers,
Mark

Got the proscenium fabric done this weekend and today. Looks pretty good.....most is still just friction fit, need to fasten in places.

http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k242/BritInVA/Proscenium-1.jpg

Planning on getting on with equipment rack tomorrow.

Cheers,
Mark

Very nice. Can't wait to see the progress next week.

Mark,
With all that time off next week (read: jealousy), can you take a picture from the stage looking back towards the bar. I am just curious how everything is oriented. Work hard next week!

Here ya go (that ends still under construction)

http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k242/BritInVA/looking-back-from-stage.jpg

No, they are not my Berline 88's :D

Cheers,
Mark

That is going to look really cool with the frosted glass! What are your plans for the fuse box?

That is going to look really cool with the frosted glass! What are your plans for the fuse box?

I got to get round to making a door, thinking I'll do half to match panelling then paint top half Red so does not stand out too much.

Mark -

A neighbor with the same model as me is doing his basement and said the inspector told him that the electric panel must be visible. He was told it was because the firemen need to be able to locate it. Have you heard anything about that? Ifigured I would leave it exposed for the inspections and then cover later, but I was just wondering if you had heard that.

Tom

I had just painted the panel to match the rest of my wall in the house we sold earlier in the year. That seemed to pass the home owner's inspection. No clue what the Northern VA building codes are on something like this though.

Mark -

A neighbor with the same model as me is doing his basement and said the inspector told him that the electric panel must be visible. He was told it was because the firemen need to be able to locate it. Have you heard anything about that? Ifigured I would leave it exposed for the inspections and then cover later, but I was just wondering if you had heard that.

Tom

Tom - only from what I've heard from you. I can always stencil on front 'Electric Panel' for the fanal inspection and then paint over it if it standas out too much.

Cheers,
Mark

Got crown moulding up today and installed rope light (got 2 x 18' from Lowes @ $9.95 ea)

http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k242/BritInVA/rope-light.jpg

Still working on the rack - all cut and painted black.....just got to assemble. Thats got to wait till Friday.....got to spend time with Family tomorrow.

Very nice pic of the rope light - looks good! :cool:
Did you use white light and does the red color come from the wall reflection or is it a red rope light?

Mark,

what did you use to put the fabric up around the proscenium? I am just about to start that phase and went down the road of getting batons to staple the GOM to. Wondering if there is an easier way? Velcro maybe?

Thanks

Piers

Very nice pic of the rope light - looks good! :cool:
Did you use white light and does the red color come from the wall reflection or is it a red rope light?

Mike - I used a Red rope light which is on a dimmer so the lighting does not distract from the movie. Seems to work well.

Cheers,
Mark

Sweet. I really like the red rope light.

Mmmm... nicely done Mark.

I like the red as well.

Mark,

what did you use to put the fabric up around the proscenium? I am just about to start that phase and went down the road of getting batons to staple the GOM to. Wondering if there is an easier way? Velcro maybe?

Thanks

Piers

Piers,

I was going to get 1"x2" battens but could not find enough straight pieces in Home Depot.

What I ended up doing is getting is getting 1" Finger Joint Primed Pine (http://205.196.138.20/3/38/383441d1-4e04-4685-a89b-4f3c47ef38fe_3.jpg) that comes in 16' lengths in various widths and ripping down to 1.25" perfectly straight battens.

Then used Kreg jig to make frames, painted them blank then stapled Dazian Expo Cloth (Black) (http://www.dazian.com/cgi-bin/page.pl?action=show_style&style_id=253&group_id=) onto the frames.

I wanted to ensure the screen panels could be removed if required so some are screwed from behind and others I used friction catches (http://www.homedepot.com/cmc_upload/HDUS/EN_US/asset/images/eplus/026634107830_3.jpg).

Cheers,
Mark

BritInVA:
If your friction catches move at all, you might want to put some electrical tape over the tenon part.

Bob - so far no rattles from anywhere in room. Still need to do an LF sweep though.

Cheers,
Mark

Assembled the DIY rack today, gave it another coat of paint and attached the cable guides.

http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k242/BritInVA/rack-1.jpg http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k242/BritInVA/rack-2.jpg

Need to ensure it and the shelves are completely dry before I start putting equipment on it.

Also started the Star ceiling. It will be an 8'x4' ellipse. Cut the ellipse out of 1/4" ply and marked out the star pattern (using the Eastern Winter view). Will be attaching a 1"x2" frame on the back.....I'm hoping fiction catches will hold it up but will also attach safety chains in case it vibrates loose. Just got to get down to Joann's fabric to get some black fabric.

Cheers,
Mark

Just picked up a Sherwood RX-4105 Stereo Receiver at Circuit City --- 50% of Retail Yea :D Been keeping an eye out on this to drive my Auro Bass Shakers :D

Do you have any construction photos of the crown molding and rope lighting? I am in the process of doing the same thing!

Thanks,

Ryan

Sorry Ryan, No.

All I did wall rip a 2"x3"x6' with a 45deg angle. Then cut this in 6" pieces which were nailed/glued to the soffets. I then nailed/glued the crown to these.

Cheers,
Mark

Assembled the DIY rack today, gave it another coat of paint and attached the cable guides.

http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k242/BritInVA/rack-1.jpg http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k242/BritInVA/rack-2.jpg



Very nice! Is that MDF?

Gonzo,

Yes, 3/4" MDF. I got HD to rip to 19" wide, cut the sides to 59" then cut fixed shelves to 19" wide and movable to 18 7/8". I used 3" screws and glue on all the fixed shelves (these will carry the heavy items (AVR / Power Conditioner). I've got 5 rollers on the bottom and will be cutting down a computer chair mat to make moving easier.

Not got round to installing the equipment in them yet. The kids were using the HT for PS2 today and I've been working on the Star Ceiling.

Went out to see 'Happy Feet' on IMAX today......while the story line was a bit week the animation and sound was great.

Cheers,
Mark

Forgot to mention. On Saturday ripped out the old fireplace in the family room. Main reason for changing was that we were getting a really (and i mean REALLY) cold draught from it. Now I know why. It is installed in a bump out and what insulation the builders put in was done badly and some sections like the roof of the bump out had nothing !!!!

I have completely insulated, dry-walled and sealed it now.

Man the builders do some shoddy work!

Look very nice. Now, this gives me a rough idea of how to build my HT room. But, it wont be in this scale since still working hard to earn more.

maxht - be sure to investigate other thread builds as there are many of my HT that are not ideal - been a few compromises based on aesthetical, need and bad planning :o .

Good luck on build and be sure to start a thread to detail your construction.

Cheers,
Mark

Got the Star Ceiling up tonight :D

Not as elaborate a R00sters, Sandmans or Switheys but me likes it.

1st cut an ellipse in a 4'x8' piece of 1/4" Ply

http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k242/BritInVA/138-3895_IMG.jpg

I added framing on the back to provide room for fibers, keep ply stiff and to attach to ceiling.

http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k242/BritInVA/139-3904_IMG.jpg

Painted it black and covered with speaker fabric

http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k242/BritInVA/139-3907_IMG.jpg

I mapped out the Eastern Sky in Winter and routed the fibers. Used a glue gun the keep fibres in place. Word of warning here - the hot glue melted the fibers - had to use a cold hair dryer to rapid dry glue :eek:

http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k242/BritInVA/139-3910_IMG.jpg

Used drywall lift to raise to the ceiling and routed the fibers thru previous installed conduit. In this pic you can see one of 2 L brackets used to attach to the ceiling (its very light).

http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k242/BritInVA/139-3911_IMG.jpg

And here it is with the Rope lights....can anyone spot the ORION constellation ?

http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k242/BritInVA/139-3934_IMG.jpg

Still needs a few finishing touches......

Cheers,
Mark

Can't believe the detail. Excellent!

I see the "belt".

On the rope light, your soffits are 9" below the ceiling, where is the molding that hides the rope light? Could you shoot a pic of how you did the molding (I dont think I saw one in the previous post)

Bill - Thanks. I used mixture of 1, 3, 4 & 5 fibers depending on the size of star. Was a pain and not entirely happy with larger stars. May try some super glue ti bind the fibers. If I were to do it again I'd get larger fibers for the larger stars.

lynchmob723\ - I will take pic tomorrow.

Cheers.
Mark

Cool thanks. Also you have a dedicated rack in a separate room...now i like to think Im tech savy, but if you have a cable box in there, etc etc, how would you get the remotes to work?

Cool thanks. Also you have a dedicated rack in a separate room...now i like to think Im tech savy, but if you have a cable box in there, etc etc, how would you get the remotes to work?

I use the Hidden IR System (http://www.smarthome.com/59500.html).....not fully set up yet, just connected to DVD player. Need to install all equip in rack first.

Mark -

Are you using a low temp glue gun? Sorry to say that I know this (from following my wife around Michaels), but there are high temp and low temp glue guns/sticks. You should be able to pick up one of the guns for about 5 bucks, less with their 40% off one item coupons.


Anyway, looks really nice to me!

Tom

P.S. - I think I'm ready to call for my mechanical inspection! Just have to find a day I can be home. Maybe I can get the plumbing done and call for both...I'm coming up on a year, so I need to get at least one inpsection done.

lynchmob723\ - Here is a pic with measurements on the crown moulding/rope on the soffet.

http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k242/BritInVA/139-3935_IMG.jpg

Are you using a low temp glue gun? Sorry to say that I know this (from following my wife around Michaels), but there are high temp and low temp glue guns/sticks. You should be able to pick up one of the guns for about 5 bucks, less with their 40% off one item coupons.


Tom - I assume I must have a high temp gun. Too late now for me but a tip for anyone esle 'use low temp glue gun' when gluing fibers.

Cheers,
Mark

Mark, the ceiling looks fantastic. I like Orion's belt ;) How did you get your rope light to be as bright as it is? Mine seems to be a very muted/dull blue. I was think of putting up some reflective silver tape on my light tray to try and reflect some of the light.

Drew

Drew - nothing special.....its just flat Red paint and an off-shelf Lowes Rope light

Cheers,
Mark

Been asked this a few times in other threads so thought would post in my thread.

For power to PJ and Sub recepticles I wanted to run them via a Power Conditioner / UPS to prolong lifetime of the PJ bulb. Some of the options suggested were expensive so I've did the following:

APC J10--> 20A cord --> junction box with twist connections --> 20A Romex --> Recepticle --> PJ (or Sub)

In the Junction box I used double gang blank plate and drilled two holes. I found some cable glands (similar to this (http://img.alibaba.com/photo/51185214/Cable_Connecting_System.jpg)) at Home Depot that attached to the plate. I got a couple heavy duty power cords and cut the socket end of and passed thru the cable glands, secured and then used wire nuts to attach to the romex.

Here is a pic

http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k242/BritInVA/139-3938_IMG.jpg

Only time will tell if passes code but don't see why it would not.

[EDIT] Yes it passed code

Cheers,
Mark

I have a 1.5" gap at the top of the star ceiling. See below:

http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k242/BritInVA/139-3936_IMG.jpg

Originally didn't think it would be noticeable from below but it is. So looking for ideas.

Current thinking is to get some dense/rigid foam that is flexible enough when cut into a 1.5" x 0.5" strip that can bend around the ellipse. Then cover in black fabric and friction fit in the gap. I'll check out local Jo Anns and Hancock fabric see whats available.

Anyone got other ideas?

Cheers,
Mark

How about just painting the exposed wood black for now? Could even just spruce it up with some molding and call it a decorative feature?

How about just painting the exposed wood black for now? Could even just spruce it up with some molding and call it a decorative feature?

Michael, painting framing Black or Red was my initial thoughts but I don't really like the gap. Problem with a moulding is (a) find one flexible enough to go around the ellipse and (b) how to fix it the the star panel.

Cheers,
Mark

Thanks for the pic. Do you think you could have gotten away with mounting the crown on the bottom of the soffit? Bottom of molding flush with bottom of soffit, that how I was going to do mine, but now im not sure....only thing that would change is how it lights the ceiling

Thanks for the pic. Do you think you could have gotten away with mounting the crown on the bottom of the soffit? Bottom of molding flush with bottom of soffit, that how I was going to do mine, but now im not sure....only thing that would change is how it lights the ceiling

Yes - but my concern was (as you mentioned) it would be too far from ceiling to have provided adequate glow.

Cheers,
Mark

Michael, painting framing Black or Red was my initial thoughts but I don't really like the gap. Problem with a moulding is (a) find one flexible enough to go around the ellipse and (b) how to fix it the the star panel.

Cheers,
Mark

I was more thinking about putting molding around the frame portion (so straight lines and 90 degree bends).

However, if you want to cover the entire gap, and while it may be a pain, how about geting another piece of plywood, cutting it to the same elipse shape except with a hole cut in the center, using scraps to float that piece over the main piece and wrapping the sides in cloth?

And here it is with the Rope lights....can anyone spot the ORION constellation ?

http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k242/BritInVA/139-3934_IMG.jpg
Mark,

Wow -- that looks really great. I like the red rope light surround. Can you take a any pics of the ceiling in full light? I want to see how the oval looks hanging with the room lights on.

Wow -- that looks really great. I like the red rope light surround. Can you take a any pics of the ceiling in full light? I want to see how the oval looks hanging with the room lights on.
Thanks Steve. How is this?

http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k242/BritInVA/139-3939_IMG.jpg

Cheers,
Mark

Thanks Steve. How is this?

http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k242/BritInVA/139-3939_IMG.jpg

Cheers,
Mark
Perfect! It is amazing how easily that red paint turns black when the lights are off!

Perfect! It is amazing how easily that red paint turns black when the lights are off!

Yes, surprised me also - even with rope lights and star ceiling on don't find it distract at all. With rope light and star ceiling on I find don't even need the wall sconces on to provide adequate lighting to move around the room safely.

Cheers,
Mark

Yes, surprised me also - even with rope lights and star ceiling on don't find it distract at all. With rope light and star ceiling on I find don't even need the wall sconces on to provide adequate lighting to move around the room safely.

Cheers,
Mark
In my room, the reflection of the video off the screen lights things up pretty well but I always supplement with a few can lights above the seating. That's good to know how the rope and star lighting can light the room as well. This might be better and definitely a higher "cool" factor :D

OK, put all the equipment in the DIY rack. Started the IR repeater set up......what does everyone use to route the IR emmitter wires? Little sticky wire ties?

Anyone got links to something that they have succesfully used?

Thanks,
Mark

Been doing some searching on cable management.

Think I will use something like this to route emitter wires up/down side of rack.

http://cableorganizer.com/images/grommet-cord-away/wire-clips-s.jpg

However, still need to find something to route emmitter wires across front of equipment......think something like this but needs to be smaller (these are 1.12" x 1.12").

http://cableorganizer.com/images/abm4-icon.jpg

I'll keep searching but if anyone has other suggestions appreciate it.

Cheers,
Mark

The emitter wires are so thin, that I just use that really nice transparent scotch tape =).

I was also thinking a small dab of hot glue.....should hold fim and be easy the peel off it needed.

Clear silicone caulk works wonders. I kept having the emitters pop off my D* TiVo (stupid rounded surfaces) and the caulk keeps them in place without damaging the components. The wires I tuck up and over the top of the components instead of routing across the front wherever possible.

Tom

Tom - thanks clear caulk will be a good solution, avoids any blemishes 'hot' glue may cause.

Cheers,
Mark

Mark,

At least you're on top of the little things, those things are just getting addressed at this point on my side. My IR stuff is still hanging from the ceiling in my equipment closet, I'll get around to it someday soon hopefully.

OH and everything looks great. Congrats on the paneling and the ceiling.

Bud

Mark,

At least you're on top of the little things, those things are just getting addressed at this point on my side. My IR stuff is still hanging from the ceiling in my equipment closet, I'll get around to it someday soon hopefully.

OH and everything looks great. Congrats on the paneling and the ceiling.

Bud

Thanks Bud - I've now ran out of cash (till Tax Rebate time), the Berklines and my Daughters Orthadontal treatment saw to that :eek: so its only the little thing I can do.

Thanks Bud - I've now ran out of cash (till Tax Rebate time), the Berklines and my Daughters Orthadontal treatment saw to that :eek: so its only the little thing I can do.

Man, I can relate to that. I've been itching to get barstools and a plasma for the bar for some time now, just got to wait some more until after the holidays and tax season.

Bud

I have a 1.5" gap at the top of the star ceiling. See below:

http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k242/BritInVA/139-3936_IMG.jpg

Originally didn't think it would be noticeable from below but it is. So looking for ideas.

Current thinking is to get some dense/rigid foam that is flexible enough when cut into a 1.5" x 0.5" strip that can bend around the ellipse. Then cover in black fabric and friction fit in the gap. I'll check out local Jo Anns and Hancock fabric see whats available.

Anyone got other ideas?

Cheers,
Mark

I would do the same - suggest to wrap the foam in fabric and bend around the edge of the ellipse but I would it make a bit smaller so it will be inserted - let's say 1/2 - 1". Although it might get a bit tricky to get the fabric flat wrapped around the foam...

How about just black paint ?

I went over to see Brit's theater in person. I think he's starting to obsess about it. Unless he fixed those gaps before I got there, I sure didn't notice them.

I CAN tell you all this...the pictures do not do his room justice. The workmanship on his paneling is just beautiful. And to think he came to ME for advice before he started. Now I'm going to him! I thought the sound and picture were fabulous, and he complains he hasn't calibrated anything yet! I just hope mine comes close to his when I'm finished.

Great work Mark!

Tom

Tom - Thanks for the kind words.

Yes, probably am getting a bit anal but you know what its like. When you know its there you focus on it. I picked up some thick quilt batting over weeked - going to cut some strips, cover in fabric and see how it looks.

Cheers,
Mark

I cut a strip if fabric 4.5" wide, sprayed with adhesive and wrapped a double thickness 1.5" quilt batting. Its just friction fit into the gap. Did do the trick but think i will add a layer of card to stiffen up a bit.

http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k242/BritInVA/139-3954_IMG.jpg

It's funny how it's the little things that bug us the most. Honestly, it looks great. The only one who would ever know (or care) if it's less than perfect is you. I'd leave it be for now, focus on finishing the rest of the space and see if the "issue" just fades away.

Speaking of projects - any plans for that light fixture above the screen? ;)

Speaking of projects - any plans for that light ficture above the screen? ;)

What you don't like it :D

Actually, been trying to locate a fixture for some time. Problem with the track lighting I've seen is the big electrical junction. However, came accross this in Lowes

http://images.lowes.com/product/converted/022011/022011719269md.jpg

Currently spraying it black and should get it mounted tonight.

Cheers,
Mark

Got the stage lights up.

http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k242/BritInVA/139-3957_IMG.jpg

http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k242/BritInVA/139-3955_IMG.jpg

Lookin good Mark. Looks like you and I are in a tight race to see who finishes first ;) I still have base boards to do. I also have to finish the bar. But I am focused on the HT right now trying to get the walls done before the seats arrive.

Drew

Got the stage lights up.
Darn, I really liked that cool retro fixture... :D

Looks great Mark!
Chip

Yeah, I liked it, too. Nothing says class and taste like white ceramic. :D

Lookin good Mark. Looks like you and I are in a tight race to see who finishes first ;) I still have base boards to do. I also have to finish the bar. But I am focused on the HT right now trying to get the walls done before the seats arrive.

Drew

Drew

I think you will beat me. Think I mentioned the Berklines and Daughters Orthodontist treatment has emptied the bank account......need to wait for Tax rebate time to complete Bar area.

So between now and then will be getting smaller jobs done in the HT (base moulding, equip room door, electric panel door etc.) and around the house (catch up on Honey Do's)........plus of course enjoying the HT. We watched Superman Returns ands Ice Age II over weekend and was great.

Cheers,
Mark

Chip / Keith - yes was rather sad occasion seeing the old trusty light go :D

Now most of lights are installed (just bar has the "retro" fixtures :D ) I finally go around to programming the Insteon KeypadLinc.

I ended up not programing scenes yet as was having some issues having different on levels for different scenes. According to the User Manual (http://www.smarthome.com/manuals/2486d.pdf) I should be able to have different on-levels per scene, however, When ever I changed the remote on level for one scene it changed it for others......I'm probably doing something wrong but for now I have set it up as:

A = Wall Scones (Toggle On/Off)
B = Rope Light (Toggle On/Off)
C = Star Ceiling (Toggle On/Off)
D = Spare
E = Front Bar (Toggle On/Off)
F = Rear Bar (Toggle On/Off)
G = Stage (Toggle On/Off)
H = All Off (non-Toggle Off)

Another issues was I was unable to initially link the ToggleLinc Relay that controls the star ceiling. Turned out it didn't like the light box. Plugged a temporary lamp in its place, linked the switch and replaced with light box and all OK.

Had a few issues when was trying to Set A as a non-Toggle On for Wall/Bar and B for non-Toggle All Off.....didn't like it :( But when I switched to H as non-Toggle All Off started functioning - so must not have liked the A & B combination.

The set up not exactly what I wanted but will do for now while I read a bit more on Insteon programming or dig into my pocket for the PC software.

Cheers,
Mark

Using the software to program scenes makes it a lot easier. However tech support will run you through the programing steps if you are having any issues. I've called them a few times and generally they have been very helpful.

Now most of lights are installed (just bar has the "retro" fixtures :D ) I finally go around to programming the Insteon KeypadLinc.

I ended up not programing scenes yet as was having some issues having different on levels for different scenes. According to the User Manual (http://www.smarthome.com/manuals/2486d.pdf) I should be able to have different on-levels per scene, however, When ever I changed the remote on level for one scene it changed it for others......I'm probably doing something wrong but for now I have set it up as:

A = Wall Scones (Toggle On/Off)
B = Rope Light (Toggle On/Off)
C = Star Ceiling (Toggle On/Off)
D = Spare
E = Front Bar (Toggle On/Off)
F = Rear Bar (Toggle On/Off)
G = Stage (Toggle On/Off)
H = All Off (non-Toggle Off)

Another issues was I was unable to initially link the ToggleLinc Relay that controls the star ceiling. Turned out it didn't like the light box. Plugged a temporary lamp in its place, linked the switch and replaced with light box and all OK.

Had a few issues when was trying to Set A as a non-Toggle On for Wall/Bar and B for non-Toggle All Off.....didn't like it :( But when I switched to H as non-Toggle All Off started functioning - so must not have liked the A & B combination.

The set up not exactly what I wanted but will do for now while I read a bit more on Insteon programming or dig into my pocket for the PC software.

Cheers,
Mark


Are you saying that if you changed the current level on a SwitchLink, and then re-linked to a button on your KPL, that ALL of the buttons on your KPL now inherited that new level?

Are you saying that if you changed the current level on a SwitchLink, and then re-linked to a button on your KPL, that ALL of the buttons on your KPL now inherited that new level?

What I was trying to do was have a scene where sconces were on about 10% and the Rope Light was on.

The sconces are off the KeypadLinc Btn "A". I followed the instructions to set the 'Local On-Level' to be full on and 'Remote On-Level' to be on low. I then programed Btn "B" to link to Btn "A" and the Rope Light SwitchLinc Dimmer.

What I found was that Btn "A" just switched on the Sconces to the Low level.

In the end was getting late and was getting frustrated so reverted to what I detailed above.

I'll try again over weekend when got time to play a bit more.

Cheers,
Mark

Using the software to program scenes makes it a lot easier. However tech support will run you through the programing steps if you are having any issues. I've called them a few times and generally they have been very helpful.

Yeah probably does just too stingy to pay the $140 for s/w & interface :eek: to control one room. Maybe when I extend to other rooms I'll use it.

If someone had the software on a portable PC you could borrow it to quickly set the functions. No need to own the interface if you aren't running timers and such. I'd offer the use of my system but its loaded on a PC that shouldn't be moved.

Just heard from Roman my Berklines have shipped :D Should be here for Monday :D

Ahead of schedule

Just heard from Roman my Berklines have shipped :D Should be here for Monday :D

Ahead of schedule

I'm so jealous. We were so close to ordering Berklines when we decided to do a budget check. Unfortunately it looks like I'll run out of money before finishing the rest of the HT, so the Berklines will have to wait. :mad: I'm hoping early next year we'll be able to order them.

Guy

Mark stay close to the phone. I assume that Berkline uses the same shipping company that delivered mine. In my case I got a call the night before and they came the next day. My guy helped me unbox and carry each chair inside. Wouldn't take a tip but took a cold soda and cold bottle of water.

Then you can spend the better part of an hour cutting the boxes into managable sizes for trash pick-up. Have a sharp blade ready.

They ship in two pieces.

Big - I work from home 95% of time so always close to phone. Trouble will be staying off phone so they can get me.

See your 'concession area' is coming along very nicely.....we should have quite a banquet when you have a open day for the locals :D

My guy helped me unbox and carry each chair inside. Wouldn't take a tip but took a cold soda and cold bottle of water.

Then you can spend the better part of an hour cutting the boxes into managable sizes for trash pick-up. Have a sharp blade ready.

They ship in two pieces.

you know, I had a similar experience with my delivery as well. The delivery guy was the nicest person, unloaded, unboxed, and helped carry each piece to where they were going to be setup in the basement. He even asked if I needed halp putting them together. He too wouldn't accept a tip, but I was able to convince him that I wanted to pay for his lunch. Probably the best experience I've had so far with furniture delivery. and this was all with base, non-white-glove shipping.

Hope you have a similar experience with your berkline delivery.

you probably had the same company and maybe the same guy. This might be his territory.

Got call from them today - should be here Monday 10-12noon. Delivery agent is Averitt Express

yea, that's it. Averitt. Let's hope you get the same guy.

Hmmph... my guy told me he was limited to being able to place them in my garage.

But my trash peple took the big-ol boxes without my having to cut them up!

My kids played with our boxes for at least a month.

I also got one wrong chair. Glad I saved the box to ship it back.

My kids played with our boxes for at least a month.

I also got one wrong chair. Glad I saved the box to ship it back.


Lol.

And a pair of mine ended up being "saw horses" for spraying a bunch of paneling and trim.

Mark, I got my chairs on Friday! My delivery guy helped me unbox them and bring them in the house as well. It is really hard to get any work done seeing the chairs set up in the HT. Going to watch a movie in them tonight :D I am finishing the pool table set up right now then I can take some more progress pictures.

Good luck with your delivery.

Drew

Drew,

It's Holiday season so time to spend with family anyway. I've been getting the christmas lights up and christmas shopping done. Only progress this weekend has been to get the base moulding installed in the HT area and started cutting out the upper panels of a 6-pannel door to start the Ticket booth faux door to the Equip closet.

So looking forward to enjoying the progress to date and make a new years resolution to get hard at it in 2007. Hope you and the family get to enjoy yours too.

We watched Pirates II last night - absolutly great :D and got Batman Returns for tomorrow.

Cheers,
Mark

Oh yes - in addition to my Insteon KeypadLinc issues the light box to star ceiling is interferring with the Insteon signals so looks like I need to get a "FilterLinc 5-Amp Plug-In Noise Filter"

My Berkline 088's have arrived :D

Currently sitting in boxes outside the basement walkout (boxes are too big to get thru door) :eek:

Cheers,
Mark

I guess that means you didn't get the king of all delivery men.

Mark -

EXCELLENT! Can't wait to see pics. Better yet, I need to come over and borrow some of those plumbing tools. Then I can see in person. Maybe try them out too!

Tom

No pictures of boxes outside? Man!

Bud

No pictures of boxes outside? Man!

Bud

Your wish just came true :D

http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k242/BritInVA/HT/139-3966_IMG.jpg

Cheers,
Mark

The antipication of unwrapping them has got to be killing you.

Anybody wanna buy some Berk's cheap? :D

I guess that means you didn't get the king of all delivery men.

No, was not the guy you described. He did help me get them around the back which I was grateful for,

EXCELLENT! Can't wait to see pics. Better yet, I need to come over and borrow some of those plumbing tools. Then I can see in person. Maybe try them out too!

Sure you can borrow the tools and try the chairs - just call ahead.

The antipication of unwrapping them has got to be killing you.

Yep - killing me more than you guys waiting for pics :D

Anybody wanna buy some Berk's cheap? :D

Believe me those boxes are under close scrutinny.....I back onto a pathway where they are in full view :eek: . Got to finish one more call then I'll at least get them inside :D...... but will it stop there :D

Cheers,
Mark

OT, I don't like the looks of how close to the house that gutter downspout lands. It the rest are the same, you might want to think about extending away from foundation. That will lighten the load on your sump pump.

OT, I don't like the looks of how close to the house that gutter downspout lands. It the rest are the same, you might want to think about extending away from foundation. That will lighten the load on your sump pump.

That and a few other downspouts are part of my spring projects. I know got my priorities wrong :D

OK - couldn't wait any longer. Unpacked and assembled - couldn't believe how easy assembly was.

http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k242/BritInVA/HT/139-3965_IMG.jpg

Still got to install the seat shakers - but been ordered to complete the fireplace surrond by she who must be obeyed :eek:

Cheers,
Mark

Very nice!!

My Berkline 088's have arrived :D

Currently sitting in boxes outside the basement walkout (boxes are too big to get thru door) :eek:

Cheers,
Mark

We had the same problem.

We got the first box unpacked by the door when we found out. Afterwards we found it easier to unpack them at the garage, then carry them around the house in and inside as the separate pieces. Your new seats look great!

OK - couldn't wait any longer. Unpacked and assembled - couldn't believe how easy assembly was.

http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k242/BritInVA/HT/139-3965_IMG.jpg

Still got to install the seat shakers - but been ordered to complete the fireplace surrond by she who must be obeyed :eek:

Cheers,
Mark
So who's the lucky couple that gets to sit in the back "blue" seats?? :D

Seating looks great. Hope you had them stain protected :eek: ;)

Nice mark... the tan microfiber is a good match for your HT.

Mark -

ShwwEEEEEEETTT!

I'll shoot you a PM.

Tom

You put Tom in one of those seats and hand him a beer, he'll never leave. They look pretty comfortable.

You put me in one of those seats at 9:15pm and I'll be snoring, beer in hand or not. I don't know what it is about 9:15PM, but I go out like a light (I still don't think I've seen a complete episide of Two and a Half Men). So I'm thinking beer AND a new comfy chair...I'm out in 2 minutes flat! But Mark's a nice guy, his wife won't mind, and in the sound isolated room I won't bother the kids. I would never leave.

Tom

Note to self: When Tom comes round keep the LFE Demo disk on infinite loop :D

You put me in one of those seats at 9:15pm and I'll be snoring, beer in hand or not. I don't know what it is about 9:15PM, but I go out like a light (I still don't think I've seen a complete episide of Two and a Half Men). So I'm thinking beer AND a new comfy chair...I'm out in 2 minutes flat! But Mark's a nice guy, his wife won't mind, and in the sound isolated room I won't bother the kids. I would never leave.

Tom
I'll wait for the bar stools so I won't fall asleep. I get more drinking done that way! :D

Looking great Mark! I've got chairs ordered for January delivery, now I just have to get those damned walls up :eek:

Thanks for all the updates and pics

Chip

Mark, did you get JM Linacoustic material from a local dealer? I called the store in Chatilly and the guy had no idea what I am talking about when I asked if they have Linacoustic in stock or if it's a special order.

Any places you know to get that and Insul-Shield locally?

Kits - I didn't use JM Linacoustic. I used 1" and 2" Owens Corning 703 solid fiberglass panels.

[Edit] obtained via sensiblesoundsolutions.com

There is a place in Manassas called McCormicks Insulation (http://www.mccormickinsulation.com/location.html#virginia). They stock JM insulation products and others in the area have got it from them.

Cheers,
Mark

Kits when you call McCormicks ask for the 1 inch duct liner. The first time I called I asked for the linacoustic and the guy said what?
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b393/bigmouthindc/DSCN3356.jpg
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b393/bigmouthindc/DSCN3355.jpg

they stock it in a 47.5 inch x 100 ft roll.

Or you can buy the remainder of my roll at cost of you want to save a few $$$ and a trip downto manassas.

;)

First of all hope everyone had a great Christmas, the festive season continues today for us Brits (think Canadians too) as its Boxing Day.

I got my Aura Bass Shakers installed today. Not quite getting the effect I was expecting on some sound tracks on the LFE Demo disk.

Couple of questions:
- What crossover frequency should I be using? Think its set to 80 Hz.
- What LFE demos do you recommend to give them a good test?

Cheers,
Mark

I' ve got mine set on 80 Hz. What exactly is your experience? What demo disk do you have? I'm running mine into the phono jack. Seems to be a little more sensitive.

I like the beginning of the last couple of Star Wars movies. War of the Worlds when the machines first emerge is great too. King Kong has some good low end. I've got a LFE demo disk with some other stuff that Clarence made up a year or so ago. I could get a copy to you if you want.

I tried mine in the Aux & CD jacks.....I thought I read phono jackswas not a good idea as can be too sensitive.

I've got Demo Disk 2 (LFE Demo) and I didn't really noitice much with Master & Commander, Jurrasic Park or Saving Private Ryan. The Haunting did give a good rumble. We watched Nanny McFee last night and was expecting some movement when she bangs her cane on the floor....but zilch.

I need to run thru Auto Setup/Room EQ on the receiver again as I haven't done this since room got carpeted, treated and seating.

Cheers,
Mark

I ran the Auto Setup on the Denon AVR-2807and it threw up an odd distance measurement for the Subwoofer ....was 25' where the fronts were all around 12'. Would splitting the SW output cause this? Should I do the Auto Setup without splitting the SW output first? The subwoofer was on 1/2 volume and 80 Hz crossover.

Also after setup all the fronts (Acend 340SE's) were set to Large and the surronds (Axiom-QS8's) as small .......is this right?

Appreciate any guidance.

Cheers,
Mark

Also - when mounting the shakers to the board how tight should they be screwed down. Just snug so they don't rattle or really tightly screwed down Mine were tightly screwwed and wondering if this is part of problem).

Going to be laying the hardwood floor in the bar area this afternoon.

Cut off the mains at 80Hz so you're feeding all the bottom end to the sub and shakers. This will also help with minimizing cancellations due to interaction of the mains' woofers and the sub(s). Remember, where one places the mains for good imaging and proper tie in to the picture is rarely if ever the best place for bass response. Let the sub do it's job.

There could potentially be in issue with the output levels when splitting the signal between the two though many people do it. Just remember that the preamp out is going to see the input impedance of both the subwoofer amp and the shaker amp(s).

Bryan

Bryan,

Are you saying I should overide the Auto Setup and make the fronts 'Small' and manually set crossover at 80 Hz?

Cheers,
Mark

Yes.

IMO, you can do a better job with a meter getting things set up yourself than most of the auto-setups. If it wants to make the fronts large, it's definitely not correct.

Bryan

Yes.

IMO, you can do a better job with a meter getting things set up yourself than most of the auto-setups. If it wants to make the fronts large, it's definitely not correct.

Bryan


+1 agree.

Usually the auto calibrates I've used (the more recent Pioneer MCACC stuff has been pretty accurate though) gets the distances spot on, but flubs the sizes of the speakers.

The ideal as I understand it is to have a speaker that can go a full octave below the cross over point. (100 hz crossover denotes a speaker that can go to 50 hz. 80 hz crossover denotes a speaker that can go to 40 hz, etc) It makes for a smoother transition.

If anyone knows otherwise, please inform. I love getting smarter. :P

That's about right from the perspective of being able to handle the transition. The reason for the 80Hz (approx) xover is that it puts most of the primary room modes in all dimensions in the range that the sub is handling. Moving the sub around is much easier to do to tweak response without having to worry about locking the sound to the screen or 2 channel imaging.

Also, the front speakers tend to be relatively close to the front wall many times causing SBIR issues (well - they're always there - just a matter of being more intense). Cutting them off can push where these happen up into a range that more standard front wall treatment can help to minimize them.

Lastly, setting them to small allows you to avoid having the sub and both mains trying to do the 20-80Hz range and causing additional peaks/dips in response due to their interaction.

Bryan

I ran the Auto Setup on the Denon AVR-2807and it threw up an odd distance measurement for the Subwoofer ....was 25' where the fronts were all around 12'. Would splitting the SW output cause this? Should I do the Auto Setup without splitting the SW output first? The subwoofer was on 1/2 volume and 80 Hz crossover.

Also after setup all the fronts (Acend 340SE's) were set to Large and the surronds (Axiom-QS8's) as small .......is this right?

Appreciate any guidance.

Cheers,
Mark

That distance does sound odd. I have used both the Onkyo and the Denon Auto Setup and they seem to both be very accurate with the distances.

I'm assuming that you are splitting the LFE from your receiver to your SW and shakers. Do you have only one SW? When I put in a second SW in the rear of the room it effected the distance in the Auto Setup, but but to the degree you are talking about.

Most people should set their fronts as small, unless you have mains that can handle the low end and/or you like the way it sounds set to large.

Also - when mounting the shakers to the board how tight should they be screwed down. Just snug so they don't rattle or really tightly screwed down Mine were tightly screwwed and wondering if this is part of problem).

Going to be laying the hardwood floor in the bar area this afternoon.

I screwed mine down pretty snuggly. You want to transfer as much of the transducers movements as you can to the chair. Some claim to like a softer wood that allows for more resonance, I went with a harder wood thinking that it would be less likely to dampen the vibrations.

Can't wait to see your new floor!

Yes, splitting the LFE feed from the receiver to a single Sub and the shaker receiver.

I manually adjusted the settings on the receiver so the fronts are small, crossover at 80 Hz and sub distance is 12'.......be watching Star Wars II tonight so will see what I think later. Maybe I need one of the local NoVA folks who have more experience to help set up the system - any volunteers :D

I relaxed the screws on the shakers so they are snug to the 3/4" MDF I used......I think thats helped......wondering if a less rigid material would be better.

Cheers,
Mark

Got the bar floor laid.....its a glueless snap together floating engineered floor. Also put in place the last of the base moulding.

http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k242/BritInVA/HT/139-3978_IMG.jpg

Been looking at cabinets for the bar area......think going to get the 'stainable' Oak cabinets from Lowes. That way I can stain to match the panelling.

Cheers,
Mark

Got the bar floor laid.....its a glueless snap together floating engineered floor. Also put in place the last of the base moulding.

<snip>

Been looking at cabinets for the bar area......think going to get the 'stainable' Oak cabinets from Lowes. That way I can stain to match the panelling.

Mark,

That's a great looking floor. What product did you use? I've been thinking of something similar for my bar space. As for cabinets, there is an online company that sends "ready to assemble" cabinets which can be sent unfinished. I don't know much about them, but saw them online here: www.kitchencabinetdepot.com (http://www.kitchencabinetdepot.com)

-Ryan

Mark,

That's a great looking floor. What product did you use? I've been thinking of something similar for my bar space. As for cabinets, there is an online company that sends "ready to assemble" cabinets which can be sent unfinished. I don't know much about them, but saw them online here: www.kitchencabinetdepot.com (http://www.kitchencabinetdepot.com)

-Ryan

It was a Traffic Master Dimensions - Brazilian Cherry. Was on offer in HD for $3 per sq ft. Its a Engineered Hardwood. Very easy to lay.

Cheers,
Mark

Looking good Mark. I really like the way that floor looks!! Great job!

Looking good Mark. I really like the way that floor looks!! Great job!

Thanks - hopefully get the bar cabinets installed over weekened then can start on the counter top. Also got to get those Christmas decorations down :(

It was a Traffic Master Dimensions - Brazilian Cherry. Was on offer in HD for $3 per sq ft. Its a Engineered Hardwood. Very easy to lay.

Cheers,
Mark

Thanks Mark!

Mark, had just read the last pages of your thread to be up to date again... nice seats!!! :D
Also your floor around the bar area looks great - very clean and professional look!

Mark, had just read the last pages of your thread to be up to date again... nice seats!!! :D
Also your floor around the bar area looks great - very clean and professional look!

Thanks Mike - not much progress recently. Been having to catch up on other projects. Hope to finish the Fireplace Mantle & Hearth in family room tomorrow then can get back to the Bar.

Cheers,
Mark

hey you probably mentioned it somewhere, but Im too lazy to go through 22 pages, how long is your bar? and how many stools are you planning for?

hey you probably mentioned it somewhere, but Im too lazy to go through 22 pages, how long is your bar? and how many stools are you planning for?

The bar is 6' long and currently I have 2 tempoary bar stools. Going to see how it goes but thinks I may use 3 stools.

Cheers,
Mark

Things have been going at a fairly slow pace lately........it gets difficult to get in the the HT these days because the wife & kids keep inviting people over for movies......plus I had to build a Fire Surround.

There has been some progress......I have installed the lower bar cabinets.....think mention got some unfinished red oak cabinets from Lowes. Also a black granite tile counter top and the bar sink are done. I'm just finishing some trim work and then will stain and polyurethane. I also got the lights for the bar but one had a part missing so got to call the manufacturer to get a replacement.

Cheers,
Mark

Oh yeah......Verizon lit up the fibre in our street last week. I've just signed up for FiOs Internet and FiOS TV. Made a saving of $15 per month over existing Comcast cable....and got HD, Media center and 2 extra digital boxes :eek: Always thought cable was a rip-off.

Now got to upgrade the TV in the Family Room to take advantage of the HD content :D

Cheers,
Mark

Now got to upgrade the TV in the Family Room to take advantage of the HD content :D
And you "thought" you were saving money :D

Got the bar floor laid.....its a glueless snap together floating engineered floor. Also put in place the last of the base moulding.

http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k242/BritInVA/HT/139-3978_IMG.jpg

Been looking at cabinets for the bar area......think going to get the 'stainable' Oak cabinets from Lowes. That way I can stain to match the panelling.

Cheers,
Mark


That is something to be proud of. :cool:

And you "thought" you were saving money :D

Well if you think of it by changing from comcast to Verizon I'm saving about $17 per month.....if I buy a HD TV for $1,000 after 5 years it would have paid for itself :D

Will put off HD TV purchase till the summer, got to start reading more on what to get LCD, Plasma or RPTV.

Cheers,
Mark

That is something to be proud of. :cool:

Thanks - I am rather please with it :cool:

Cheers,
Mark

Mark,

A while back, you mentioned that you were giving up on your dream speakers - Mordaunt-Shorts. Two questions - 1) Why did you give up? 2) I'm considering getting the MS Avant Premiere setup - ever heard it?

BTW, just found your thread, read all 22 pages today! I'm right down the road in Reston.

Mark,

A while back, you mentioned that you were giving up on your dream speakers - Mordaunt-Shorts. Two questions - 1) Why did you give up? 2) I'm considering getting the MS Avant Premiere setup - ever heard it?

BTW, just found your thread, read all 22 pages today! I'm right down the road in Reston.

I used to own MS's back in my late teen's and always loved them. Ended up giving them up with all my other separates when got married and they didn't suit the aesphetics of our living room :(

When I started my research my tendancy was to rekindle my youth with the MS's. Had I been able to find somewhere to demo them I may have got them but they proved difficult to find.

Any time you want the swing by give me a PM.

Cheers,
Mark

Just so you know I'm not totally bone idle few progress pics.

Here is the custom Fireplace I've mentioned (I know not HT but came out great).

http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k242/BritInVA/140-4006_IMG.jpg

Lights above bar area installed (they are temporary bar stools)

http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k242/BritInVA/HT/139-4000_IMG.jpg

Bar cabinets, granite tile counter and sink installed

http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k242/BritInVA/HT/140-4002_IMG.jpg

Here is a shot of the side of the cabinets which was made to match wood panelling

http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k242/BritInVA/HT/140-4003_IMG.jpg

Still trying to decide whether to get a beverage cooler (more storage and more bar looking) or a under counter fridge with ice box. Leaning towards the beverage cooler.

Cheers,
Mark

Very nice work mark, very nice, gorgeous fireplace, and love the counter tops in the bar!

Mark,

Spectacular! Looks great!

Bud

Very nice work mark, very nice, gorgeous fireplace, and love the counter tops in the bar!

Spectacular! Looks great!

Thanks guys - on the finishing straight now. Then time to start thinking of upgrades :eek:

Cheers,
Mark

Mark,

very nice looking bar - I really like the granite tiles - sharp looking! :cool:

Upgrades? What do you have in mind?

very nice looking bar - I really like the granite tiles - sharp looking! :cool:


Thanks Mike


Upgrades? What do you have in mind?

Was only kidding............I would be shot by the wife if I started any upgrades. We have only been in the house a year and it was hard enough to have HT as one of the first projects. Got to do Master Bath, Master Bed, Patio beforee any upgrades can be considered........at this moment only thing lacking is a HD DVD but will wait a while to see have the format war goes, more titles available and the prices come down.

Cheers,
Mark

I would be shot by the wife if I started any upgrades. We have only been in the house a year and it was hard enough to have HT as one of the first projects. Got to do Master Bath, Master Bed, Patio beforee any upgrades can be considered........

I know what you mean....Master Bath....rings a bell..... :rolleyes: ....this migth be next here too, but first the HT has to be done 100%! :D (and this could still take some time)

Looks great Mark. Did you build the tile top on the bar? If so, would you mind sharing the process? I have been considering building a custom tile top bar for my theater instead of using granite.

Looks great Mark. Did you build the tile top on the bar? If so, would you mind sharing the process? I have been considering building a custom tile top bar for my theater instead of using granite.

Jason - yes.

I used 2 layers of 5/8" ply with joins alternated. The 1 layer of 3/8" cement board which was screwed at 8" separation thru the the ply. The layed the 12"x12" Granite Tiles with 1/16" spaces.

Price was under $10 per sq ft v's $60+ for a Granite slab.

Cheers,
Mark

Thanks Mark. I think I will begin this project this weekend. :D

Put up the electric panel door (well its just slotted in place at moment). Can't say I'm happy with it but it will do for now while I complete other stuff. Will revisit later.

http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k242/BritInVA/HT/140-4008_IMG.jpg

Cheers,
Mark

Got my Verizon FiOS yesterday......man what a difference. The digital local channels are vastly better than the Comcast local channels, sharpness, colour, sound :D and thats on an old Sony 27" CRT. As for the HD channels in the HT WOW......just in time for Super Bowl :D :D :D Now got to start thinking about replacing that old CRT :D

Took some measurements on the Internet.

Comcast (3,000kps/500kbps)
- Download 3,530kbps
- Upload 323kbps
- Latency 43ms

FiOS (5,000kbps/2,000kbps)
- Download 4,950kbps
- Upload 1,820kbps
- Latency 17ms

Mark what software did you use for measuring, I'll check Cox for comparrison.

DSL Reports (http://www.dslreports.com/speedtest?flash=1) have a number of Servers. I did mine to the Speak Easy New York Server.

Cheers,
Mark

DSL Reports (http://www.dslreports.com/speedtest?flash=1) have a number of Servers. I did mine to the Speak Easy New York Server.

Cheers,
Mark

That's quite slow for Fios. My brother in law in Woodbridge gets 15,000kbps downloads, shoot I get 5,400kbps with Commiecast.

That's quite slow for Fios. My brother in law in Woodbridge gets 15,000kbps downloads, shoot I get 5,400kbps with Commiecast.

Depends what you sign-up for. I signed up for the 5,000kbps/2,000kbps service..........was quite happy with the 3,000kbps download speed but as I work from home I needed a better upload speed. Plus Comcast always slowed down late afternoon when kids got home from school (don't mean my own kids - neighborhood kids also with Comcast).

Mark, FIOS, you lucky dog! I'm still stuck at 46.6K out here in the hinter lands... But I may be able to get wireless high speed in a couple of months. Once I get that I may be able to work from home more too.

Looking good
Chip

OK my Cox results are in

6515,1945,49 New york
7473,1895,No latency shown, Washington (I got a 10,000 the other night)

BIg - is that basic Cox or you subsribe to a higher speed?

They call it the Preferred
up to 5000,2000.

They also have a premium which is up to 15000,2000

I got the Beverage Fridge today (just in time for the game :D ) but what a PITA to install. :(

My problem was the cabinets are directly on the floor concrete floor and the Hardwood floor buts up to the base board. Problem with that was the Hardwood floor made the fridge a 'very' tight fit.

I got it in but it is not ever coming out without lifting the floor :eek:

http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k242/BritInVA/140-4021_IMG.jpg

Making progress on the bar canopy......hopefully finish construction by next weekend. Need to order the glass pane the going to etch pub name.

Cheers,
Mark

Mark, you are doing an amazing job!

But seriously, how do you have the time to do all this? I figure you're either independently wealthy, or you're a lobbyist/consultant and work on your own terms for exorbitant sums of money... either way, I want in! ;)

I'm gonna take you up on your offer to see it in person some day!

Believe me I'm not independantly wealthy nor work on my own terms for exorbitant sums of money......if I was I would have hired out the build to DE :D

Just PM me when you want to come over.

Cheers,
Mark

......if I was I would have hired out the build to DE :D

...and miss all the fun you have during planning and building?? .... NO :D

...and miss all the fun you have during planning and building?? .... NO :D

No joke - We are mostly planning and hiring out the building, and going nuts trying to keep on top off the details. DE plans would have helped, for sure. Full build services are lottery ticket worthy.

Mark, I have lurked in your thread for ages. You've done tremendous work here.

Mark, I have lurked in your thread for ages. You've done tremendous work here.

Dave.....Thanks. I have been watching your thread too, can't believe you did all that HVAC work during the Winter :eek: Hope you had other forms of heating while that was going on.

Cheers,
Mark

Well, since we hit a snafu, we spent a week with heat in about 3 rooms (2 beds, and the living/dining room). The gas fireplace in the kitchen/den has been seeing a lot of action, should be an interesting bill. Part of the problem is winter hit late, so my HVAC guys keep getting calls to service units that have failed. Normally that busy stretch is in the November time frame. So, they still aren't done, the basement is a warzone and the carpenter wants to get started late this week. Yikes!

Meanwhile we are trying to figure out as many details as possible.

A few more pics of some of the finishing touches

Got some posters up.....was a bit of a challenge as only have 35" above the panelling. Ended up using 50cm x 70cm poster frames and selecting posters that could be cut without loosing too much.

http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k242/BritInVA/140-4023_IMG.jpg

Now no expat British pub would not have some memorabilia of good old Blighty :D

http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k242/BritInVA/140-4024_IMG.jpg

And here is current state of the bar canopy. The top section will have glass front and bottom section will have galley rails.

http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k242/BritInVA/140-4025_IMG.jpg

Cheers,
Mark

Looking good!

Very nice, looking good Mark.

Looking good!


Very nice, looking good Mark.

Thanks Guy's.

BTW those wicker bar stools are just temporary ;)

Cheers,
Mark

And here is current state of the bar canopy. The top section will have glass front and bottom section will have galley rails.

http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k242/BritInVA/140-4025_IMG.jpg


Mark, pardon my stupidity, but what are galley rails?

Just a decorative rail that stops things falling off.

http://www.kitchensource.com/kitchen-backsplash/images/ha-1039-2.jpg

Cheers,
Mark

And here is current state of the bar canopy. The top section will have glass front and bottom section will have galley rails.

http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k242/BritInVA/140-4025_IMG.jpg

Cheers,
Mark
Nice job Mark!

Very nice Mark,

I guess you will be staining the canopy in the same color as the rest - right?

Need to order the glass pane the going to etch pub name.

Cheers,
Mark

Hey Mark. Looking very nice. Where are you going to get the etched glass pane from?

Mike - yes, will be staining same colour as the paneling.

Jason - current thinking is to go to a glass-shop and get a peice of glass cut to size. The I will print out 'The Headley Arms' on card stock, cut out the letters and use an etching solution. I want the actual letters the be etched.

Cheers,
Mark

Mark,

Excellent work.....that back wall is SCREAMING for a back bar!

Mark,

Excellent work.....that back wall is SCREAMING for a back bar!

Randy - Thanks.......not sure what you mean on back bar.......can you explain>?

Cheers,
Mark

Sorry, Mark.

On your back wall that you have pictures, would make an excellent area for glasses and bottles.

OK see what you mean now......that was something I was considering but as I only have 30" behind the counter they will get in the way. So will be using the overhead canopy and the side wall for glasses & bottles.

Cheers,
Mark

At first it appeared you had more room back there. Upon reviewing the pictures, I see the counter below the bar top. Are you going to build a support column under the canopy or place a pre-made column under it?

Are you going to build a support column under the canopy or place a pre-made column under it?

Randy, No additional support. Going to try to keep weight to minimum to prevent sagging. Will just be display bottles behing glass top.

Cheers,
Mark

This is a totally "OFF" your thread question, how did you download your avatar?

And "on" subject...nice theater :)

Thanks

Just use the Edit Avatar (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/profile.php?do=editavatar) in your User settings.

Cheers,
Mark

Latest pic of the bar canopy. Still got another coat of polyurethane to do.

http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k242/BritInVA/140-4029_IMG.jpg

I've got the glass but could not find any stencil lettering I like at local craft store so ordered a custom stencil from stencilease.com (http://stencilease.com)

http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k242/BritInVA/Stencil.gif

Decided not to use proper 'etching' solution.....will use an etched glass effect enamel.

Been doing some other bits & pieces - tidyied up the home network wiring, installed switch plates and a few other boring but essential jobs.

Also made use of the new Universal Pictures animatio (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=784015)n to make a new Theatre Intro movie. I like this better than the Fox Intro.

http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k242/BritInVA/Website/Theatre/th_HT_Intro.jpg (http://s90.photobucket.com/albums/k242/BritInVA/Website/Theatre/?action=view&current=HT_Intro.flv)

Cheers,
Mark

That's a fun intro.

Love the words in your new animation, very creative and true! The bar's coming along nicely too by the way.

All but a couple of sheets of drywall are up on my room, they are on the outside in the wiring closet so that will be one of the last things I do anyway. I'll be slinging some mud this weekend, hey it's almost like being in DC!

Chip

Can't take credit for it - the Star Wars idea was from zductive

Cheers,
Mark

I've got the glass but could not find any stencil lettering I like at local craft store so ordered a custom stencil from stencilease.com (http://stencilease.com)

http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k242/BritInVA/Stencil.gif

Decided not to use proper 'etching' solution.....will use an etched glass effect enamel.


My mom had a Stained Glass shop for 20+ years. I used to do some work there. Personally, I think sand blasted glass looks a lot better than etching. I've done both and the etching is OK and smooth, but the rough sand blasting makes the design look much better IMO. And if you get a layed glass, you can have a really cool effect. Layered glass has a thin layer of color and a layer of clear on each side. You can sand blast through one clear layer and through the color layer. Then you have colored glass with a white frosted design in the middle.

Rather than order a stencil, you can make your own and should be easy for the common DIYer. At hobby shops, they have a clear plastic film for etching. What you do is place that on the glass and place a print-out of the design you want under the glass. Then you use an exacto knife to trace the pattern underneath and remove the part you want frosted. The exposed parts get etched and the part with the sticker is protected. Easy and cheap to do.

Another option is you can go to a sign shop and have them make letters out of stickers. They have a couple of stickers that look like etching or sand blasting from a distance of several feet. Looks good up close too if you aren't used to looking at it like I might be. It's a good option worth looking at.

Nice intro. I hadn't been to that part of the forum in a long time. May have to render a new intro for my theater.

Nice intro... gotta love star wars...

And remember, Han shot Greedo first !!

Mark,

your bar is looking better and better every time I visit your thread! :)
Nice intro! :D

Thanks for comments guys

Toxarch - Agree I would have preferred to have got profesionally etched glass but was a) having difficulties finding anthing local and b) was looking expensive.

As the canopy glass will be up high it won't get too much scrutinity (I hope). Initially I was going to create my own stencil but this worked out cheap (about $30), if it does not come out any good first time I should be able to remove and try again - or take a look for a sign shop that can do the stickers.

Cheers,
Mark

Have you considered having black vinyl adhesive back letters cut from the stencil?

Have you considered having black vinyl adhesive back letters cut from the stencil?

Not really - been trying to go with traditional 'frosted' lettering.

Cheers,
Mark

Here is what's left to be done.

1) Finish Bar canopy (just the glass and galley rails to install).
2) Equipment Room Door / Faux Ticket Booth (this weekends project)
3) Stain HT Entrance Door
4) Exit Sign
5) Bar Foot Rest
6) Bar Shelfs / Mirror
7) Access Panel to Star Light Box
8) Confectionary Stand
9) Get final inspections

Still have some equipment purchases to make
- Screen (Probably DIY SMX)
- Universal Remote (undecided)
- Possibly add the Rear Surround in ceiling speakers
- Not going to worry about a HD or BR DVD yet (got burned in past by selecting Betamax over VHS :mad: )

So looks like I may finish before the annivesary of starting (4/1/06)....only $$$ stand in my way. Here's hoping for a decent Tax rebate ;)

Cheers,
Mark

Mark, I posted in the Universal thread too, but I think you should switch the clips on your intro. Do Star Wars first, and add a star field to the background, then when the music fades, pan down to the planet like in "A New Hope" then have the planet be your Universal introduction.

For $30, you should be able to do a bunch of DIY liquid etchings and that's all materials included.

I've heard that clear spray paint will make a nice easy and cheap priced etched look. Lay your stencil on the glass and tape off the rest of the glass. Spray 3 light coats across the stencil and then remove everything. I've never tried it but it might work.

I got some 'White Frost' PermEnamel which is supposed to give an Etched Glass Effect.....was only $4.99 and you apply with stencil sponges in multiple light coats. Hopefully that will get the effect I'm looking for.

Cheers,
Mark

Great work here. Very impressive.
Is it ok to place wooden cabinets right on the slab? Aren't you worried about condensation and rot or even worse yet, a flooded basement. After all it is a basement, it will flood. Another thing, why did you choose to use polyurethane over acrylic which will not yellow the wood?

Great work here. Very impressive.
Is it ok to place wooden cabinets right on the slab? Aren't you worried about condensation and rot or even worse yet, a flooded basement. After all it is a basement, it will flood. Another thing, why did you choose to use polyurethane over acrylic which will not yellow the wood?

Thanks.

Cabinets are not totally on the slab, I screwed in some 1/2" round head srew into the bottom....so they are about 1/8" off the slab so any moisture should not be an issue.

I'm not too concerned about flooding for any natural event........my basement is a walk out, for the most above grade, and the grade continues slopes considerably away from the house. Not all basements are susceptable to flooding. Of course there is always a risk of a burst pipe.

Actually have been using acrylic - just too used to saying polyurethane.

Cheers,
Mark

This weekends progress.

Got the HT Door stained and also constructed the Faux Ticket Booth door to the Equipment closet.

http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k242/BritInVA/140-4031_IMG.jpg

Also made the panel to the light box and finished off some of the woodwork around the beverage fridge.

Cheers,
Mark

Wow, excellent wood work... Very nice work mark, very nice !!

When is the grand opening movie for AVS members? =)

I'm not 100% satisfied with the doors. They are a little off color as they are white grained Safe-n-Sound that have been stained with a gel-stain. Not sure why they are so shiny as its the same Satin acrylic.

Still got a few things left before I can say its finished - but alas got to take a break for a few months as I need to build a Murphy Bed (got an overflow of guests over spring break) and I've promised my girls I'll build a dolls house kit I've had for about 10yrs :eek:

So only planned updates will be the finishing touches to the bar canopy (glass & galley rails) and the Ticket Booth (plexi & curtains).

So the AVS members opening will be a while yet.....but happy to field the occasional vist from locals.

Cheers,
Mark

Mark, looks great. I went ahead and build a set of shelves for candy yesterday, just need to paint it.

I'm curious about your Murphy bed. Are you using plans? We have a small second guest room which a Murphy bed would be great to use.

Bud

Bud - I'm sure you noticed an uncanny resemblence to your Ticket Booth :o

I'll looks out for pics of your candy shelf - may be coming to a Theatre near here too :D

Getting the Murphy Bed plans/parts from www.wallbed.com - just add lumber. Its my project while the wife is in the UK.

Cheers,
Mark

Very, very nice!! I like it. I will call Chris today about the window. :)

Very, very nice!! I like it. I will call Chris today about the window. :)

Thanks Jason - appreciated.

Cheers,
Mark

Bud - I'm sure you noticed an uncanny resemblence to your Ticket Booth :o

I'll looks out for pics of your candy shelf - may be coming to a Theatre near here too :D

Getting the Murphy Bed plans/parts from www.wallbed.com - just add lumber. Its my project while the wife is in the UK.

Cheers,
Mark

Mark, no problem on the ticket window, I don't hold the patent. :) Thanks for the link to the Murphy bed. I posted some pictures of my candy shelves. Pretty plain, but functional.

Bud

Oh well first attempt at faux frosting was a dissaster. I tried an Etched Glass Effect Enamel and 1) looked ghastly and 2) due to the amount of coats required to get a resonable effect some of it peeled off when I removed stencil :mad:

Luckily no major harm done, a sharp blade easily removed the remainder.

So now need to look at an alternative......going to see if there is an Etched Glass Effect spray or if I find somewhere that does the Etched Glass Effect transfers.

I used 2 layers of 5/8" ply with joins alternated. The 1 layer of 3/8" cement board which was screwed at 8" separation thru the the ply. Then layed the 12"x12" Granite Tiles with 1/16" spaces.

Price was under $10 per sq ft v's $60+ for a Granite slab.

Cheers,
Mark
Mark,

We've decided to do a granite tile floor in my wet bar area. I've never installed tile before but have seen it done on TV a number of times. What concerns me most is the granite tile material of the equation. Can you use the score and break technique to cut the granite tile (like ceramic) or do I need to rent a wet saw to cut that stuff?

Of course, my wife wants it run on the diagonal -- so I'll have some extra cuts to make. Any help would be appreciated!

Steve,

I don't believe you can use the score and break technique to cut granite or marble tile - due to natural fault lines. Rather than hire a tile saw just buy a low end one from HD or Lowes. I got a 7" wet tile saw from HD for under $100 and I would not be without one for any tiling job..

Good Luck.

Mark

Well the 2nd attempt was IMO very successful.

I picked up 'Krylon Frosted Glass Finish' spray from Michaels craft store. Plus installed the galley rails (thanks to BIGmouthinDC's drill attachment for tight spaces). Got just the effect I was looking for:

http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k242/BritInVA/HT/140-4041_IMG.jpg

http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k242/BritInVA/HT/140-4047_IMG.jpg

Needs a little cleaning up but going to give it 24hrs to ensure its fully dry.

Cheers,
Mark

Very nice work mark, coming together real good !!

Mark,

Excellent job on the glass and the whole top of that bar. You're a man on a mission!

Bud

Mark, looking really good so far! :cool:

But wait a minute...where are the bottles and glasses?? :D

Awesome. It is time to sit back and turn up a pint or 3 for all of us pathetic chaps still working on their theaters!

Looks awesome dude. Check your PM for ticket window stuff.

Brit -

You are AMAZING. I just don't know how you do it so fast. It takes me MONTHS to do what you do in a week!.

Great work.

Tom

Thanks Guys for all kind words. :cool:

I couldn't wait 24hrs for paint to cure and did 'some' cleaning last night, also added a few props.

http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k242/BritInVA/HT/140-4049_IMG.jpg

I've ordered some more British branded glasses from The Pub Shoppe (http://www.thepubshoppe.com/).

The top display area will slowly be filled with liquor bottles. Due to a) not wanting any unnecessary weight or b) having to jump onto counter to retrieve I will just be putting empty bottles up there. I'll probably colour the insides to make them look full.

The 'production' liquor will go on glass shelves above the microwave. Still looking into the look I want for this. Guess pays for some visits to the local bars. Hard job but somebody has got to do it :D

I guess I also need to put a strong lock on the door to keep the kids away from the liquor (one is approaching those teenage years) :eek:

I have also ordered my Bar Foot Rails in stainless steel from KegWorks (http://www.kegworks.com/home.php?cat=486).

Jason (Jikkjack) is arranging for my Ticket Booth plexi and need to get down to Joannes for some Velvet.

Running out of things to do so will need to feed my addiction on all your great builds as been told by the Boss no upgrades until I complete Master Bath, Master Bed, alter deck, refinish Kitchen cabinets, brick patio and a porch :eek:

Cheers,
Mark

You know where I live!

Anytime you want to feed your addicton. I do mean, ANYTIME. Even if I'm not there! :D

Tom

Tom - if only I had the time

But as mentioned the wife has plenty of tasks to keep me occupied for the next 2-3 years. :(

Mark,

I took the liberty of fixing your recent post. :D

Tom - if only I had the time

But as mentioned the wife has plenty of tasks to keep me occupied for the next 20-30 years. :(

Jasin - can easily tell your a married man :D

Steve,

I don't believe you can use the score and break technique to cut granite or marble tile - due to natural fault lines. Rather than hire a tile saw just buy a low end one from HD or Lowes. I got a 7" wet tile saw from HD for under $100 and I would not be without one for any tiling job..

Good Luck.

Mark
Thanks Mark,

I went by Home Depot this weekend and did not see any wet saws for sale. I know I've seen them before. I'll check Lowes on the way home tonight.

I did find a cheap one at Harbor Freight for $60. I've heard their tools are cheaply built but I figure if I get a few uses out of it over multiple days, it will more than pay for itself? Also, this design works like a table saw and you just push the tile through the blade -- so any tile length is okay :)

7'' PORTABLE WET TILE SAW (http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=91511)
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/photos/91500-91599/91511.gif

They also see a "Contractor grade" one for $150. It might be a little more sturdy.

7'' CONTRACTOR'S TILE SAW (http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=92658)
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/photos/92600-92699/92658.gif

BTW -- Awesome job on the bar and glass frosting! Please drink a beer for me :D

Steve - I'm drinking your beer as I type :D

I got this one - can't remember if it was from Lowes or HD.

http://www.tile-saw.com/graphics/qep_60087_sm.jpg

You can get it at http://www.tile-saw.com/qep7port.html but I'm sure price was similar at HD or Lowes.

I've had this around 4 yrs and tiled two bathrooms, a kitchen (inc counter tops) and two heaths plus the bar.....no problems.

Cheers,
Mark

Steve - I'm drinking your beer as I type :D

I got this one - can't remember if it was from Lowes or HD.

http://www.tile-saw.com/graphics/qep_60087_sm.jpg

You can get it at http://www.tile-saw.com/qep7port.html but I'm sure price was similar at HD or Lowes.

I've had this around 4 yrs and tiled two bathrooms, a kitchen (inc counter tops) and two heaths plus the bar.....no problems.

Cheers,
Mark
Ahh -- a beer sound really good about now. I may have one :)

I found that model at Lowes online. I went by the store today and did not see any wet saws there. I'll stop by tomorrow and ask someone (I probably went to the wrong area). They are selling it for $88 -- what a bargain! I'll need to purchase one of these in the next few weeks once I finish my rear cabinet.

Thanks for the tip.

Steve, I used the same saw. Worked great, however, the blades do wear down after a little bit. New blades are about $30-35, so I think that is where they make their money.

I did find a cheap one at Harbor Freight for $60. I've heard their tools are cheaply built but I figure if I get a few uses out of it over multiple days, it will more than pay for itself?

I would certainly think so versus renting one. Heck, Brit and I went half-sies on a drywall lift for that exact reason. If it's strictly for home use, I would go for it. How many bathrooms and counters can you re-tile in a lifetime in your house? 6? Over 20 or 25 years. That a pretty good investment if you ask me. Even if a new blade cost $30, that's a half day rental at my local rental place.

But then again, I went the shower suround route, so I'm not doing any tiling, so take with a grain of salt.

Tom

Steve, I used the same saw. Worked great, however, the blades do wear down after a little bit. New blades are about $30-35, so I think that is where they make their money.

Mine came with two blades - so far not had to buy any. Only cranked out the 2nd when I was cutting the granite for bar counter and fire surround.

Like Tom say's $30 ain't that bad when you consider cost of hiring and fact you can take your time.

Thanks Guys for all kind words. :cool:
I've ordered some more British branded glasses from The Pub Shoppe (http://www.thepubshoppe.com/).


Cheers,
Mark


Mark, not sure if you know of the British Pantry, just 4 miles west of South Riding, on Rt 50, but they have a bunch of UK related odds and ends, foodstuffs, etc. You might actually find some more memrobilia (sp?) there for your bar. If nothing else, they have a killing British tea-time set up with scones and biscuits. Worth checking out. Its a nice family run store/tea shop.

http://www.thebritishpantry.us/

OT, but my wife (who happens to be British) picked up a tee-shirt for our one year old, and the TShirt has this print on the front that reads "Made in the US of British Parts". Thought it was pretty funny.

Excellent work on your whole setup. I'm enjoying reading all your updates.

Asem - I know the British Pantry well. Get my stock of bacon and saugages from there. Plus their English Breakfast is die for :D You got my mough watering now :D

Cheers,
Mark

but don't go on the weekend and expect to eat without a reservation ;(

A couple of items arrived today.......my Bar Foot Rail and some more British Beer glasses :D

http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k242/BritInVA/HT/140-4055_IMG.jpg

Cheers,
Mark

Looking good Mark, you made quick work of getting that foot rail on.

Today I was measuring and calculating exactly what I need for my curved rail and I need to put together a fax to send to Lawrence metal to see what they would charge me.

I need a 112 inch rail bent on a 201.9 inch radius.

I got some input from Rupert a while back on his rail and mounting measurments, I'm curious with those particular brackets how high off the floor is the top of the foot rail?

Mark, looks great! Where'd you get the rail from?

Bud

swithey,

Craftsman has a tile saw with a 7" blade for about $99. It's actually a good performer. The 7" tile saw sold by Home Depot is sold under the "Workforce" name and is actually pretty good, too. You might have to ask the HD folks where they keep 'em because they might have them on a pallet at the top of a rack.

Mark,

I also live in NoVa. Your project looks outstanding! I'm currently doing a 1,000 s.f. project in my basement. I'm only a month into it, but the framing is all done and the wiring is over half-way completed. I have a material budge of $10K and all the labor is done by yours truly. We pulled the permits about a month ago when the work started.

ChinaDog: I think Mark mention kegworks but Lawrence metals has a broader selection of mounting hardware and is a tad cheaper (I think)

here is their bracket page:
http://www.lawrencemetal.com/productlist.html?subcategory=Brackets%2C+Foot+Rail