Hey and just noticed I'm up to a 1,000 posts :D

Spammer!!

J/K - lord knows I'll eventually hit numbers like that at my current posting rate - even if it's me talk to myself... ;)

Last project in the HT complete.

http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k242/BritInVA/HT/Bar.jpg

Well after nearly 2 years I think I'm done with 'The Wright Family Theatre' (MK I). I broke ground on the HT on 4/1/06 - can't believe it's been that long.

Overall really happy with the result - sure there are things I'd do differently - but can use this learning experience on MK II.

Only items outstanding are a Blu-Ray player and HTPC - waiting on the Panny BD50 on the first and the outcome of BD+ long time cracking for the 2nd.

For now going to enjoy MK I and get to MKII a few years down the road.

Cheers,
Mark

Mark -

Excellent work on a great theater! If I remember correctly, you came over to my house to see where I was before you even started. I probably have ANOTHER 2 years to go!

Great job. And to all you guys who haven 't had the pleasure of seeing Mark's theater in person.....

NANNY NANNY BOO BOO!

It truly is a work of work of art.

Again, congrats on a great job!
Tom

Excellent job. I really like how the bar turned out. The lighting in the concession stand turned out great too.

You should be proud of the hard work you put into it. Sets the bar high for the rest of us still far behind you in the progress column. :)

Congratulations Mark!!

Im not far behind you at 2.25 years :D Seems like forever, but like yesterday all at the same time.

Ronnie

Mark -

Excellent work on a great theater! If I remember correctly, you came over to my house to see where I was before you even started. I probably have ANOTHER 2 years to go!

Great job. And to all you guys who haven 't had the pleasure of seeing Mark's theater in person.....

NANNY NANNY BOO BOO!

It truly is a work of work of art.

Again, congrats on a great job!
Tom

Excellent job. I really like how the bar turned out. The lighting in the concession stand turned out great too.

You should be proud of the hard work you put into it. Sets the bar high for the rest of us still far behind you in the progress column. :)

Congratulations Mark!!

Im not far behind you at 2.25 years :D Seems like forever, but like yesterday all at the same time.

Ronnie

Thanks Guys.

Cheers,
Mark

Hey and just noticed I'm up to a 1,000 posts :D

I see 2000+...

Looks really nice Mark.. congrats.

I see 2000+...


Only if I post the rest of the house remodel :D

Only if I post the rest of the house remodel :D

I don't understand. Under your name it says 2,161 posts right now.

Thought I'd post up some final pics so no need to search thread - remember also 1st post has an index.

View towards Screen

http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k242/BritInVA/HT/004.jpg

Star Ceiling & Rope

http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k242/BritInVA/139-3934_IMG.jpg

View towards the rear

http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k242/BritInVA/HT/003.jpg

Theatre entrance and equipment closet

http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k242/BritInVA/HT/004-Copy-1.jpg

A few shots of the Bar (Those Bar stools are not staying)

http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k242/BritInVA/HT/005-Copy.jpg

http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k242/BritInVA/HT/008.jpg

http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k242/BritInVA/HT/007-1.jpg

And finally equipment - sorry this is a DIY Rack and no Bud/Craig I'm not going to show the rear cabling :eek:

http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k242/BritInVA/HT/010-1.jpg

Cheers,
Mark

I don't understand. Under your name it says 2,161 posts right now.

Ah right - I meant total posts in this thread.

Very nice work. Looks like a great place to pull up a seat, drink a pint of guiness (or six), and watch a flick. Well done my man, well done.

Very nice BritInVA,

I'm hoping to do what you did with the equipment closet door. Make's for a good way to hide our non pro racks.

Hey I recognize that room!! When I last saw it you were seemed so close to being done. Can't believe that was about a year ago. looking forward to seeing the final product live. :)

Very nice work. Looks like a great place to pull up a seat, drink a pint of guiness (or six), and watch a flick. Well done my man, well done.

Yep, sure been drinking many a pint down there......my pals have a long list of movies they want to watch too.

Very nice BritInVA,

I'm hoping to do what you did with the equipment closet door. Make's for a good way to hide our non pro racks.

Steal away - it on this forum where I got all my ideas and inspiration

Hey I recognize that room!! When I last saw it you were seemed so close to being done. Can't believe that was about a year ago. looking forward to seeing the final product live. :)

Yep, I dare say next local meet will be my place.

Cheers,
Mark

Congratulations Mark!!

Im not far behind you at 2.25 years :D Seems like forever, but like yesterday all at the same time.

Ronnie

So you guys go ahead and take a look at the date in my first post ... and that was with framing/electrical already started ... and I'm still tweaking.

Bud

So you guys go ahead and take a look at date in my first post ... and that was with framing/electrical already started ... and I'm still tweaking.

Bud

You mean branching out and work on neighbor's installs.

Looks great Brit. Been a great thread to follow.

Dave,

Well, thats extra curricular stuff, haven't even started that thread yet!

Bud

Mark,

I have been going back through the thread, and I apologize if this was covered, but I can't seem to find it.

When you first installed the acoustic treatments on your screen wall, you left the screen area as plain drywall to project onto. Now that you have built a screen, did you add any of the OC703 behind it? If so, did you notice any difference in the performance of the room.

BTW, my wife loved your red so much she wants me to change everyting in our HT that I planned on doing in grey in a rich red like yours.

Thanks for the input and help,

Chris,

Yes - I covered with OC 703 (mentioned here (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=12646296#post12646296)) and did notice there was less echo in the room after but I'm not an audiophile so can't say whether it had that much impact on the sound.

We like the red to - just insure you use a dark gray primer. Red can be a PITA.

Cheers,
Mark

Thanks Mark!

I am hoping that the red will go a little easier since I will be spraying it instead of rolling it.

Chris regardless of whether spraying with Reds been translucent a dark gray primer is necessary to get a nice deep red.

Cheers,
Mark

Got the screen wall acoustic treatments done. Used acoustic cotton in corners and 2" 703 for remainder of area (from sensiblesoundsolutions.com). The cotton was a challenge to cut - used skill saw (on Bryans advice) which worked out quite well (except I'll be sweeping up blue cotton dust for days :eek: ). The 703 cut very easily with a sharp steak knife.


Hi Mark,
I've recently started my Home Theater and thread. I've enjoyed reading your construction thread as well as Chinadogs. You guys have done a great job at sharing information and posting details that have helped me tremendously. I was wondering how much of the "acoustic cotton" you used for your corners in the front wall?

Thanks,

Brent,

Glad to be of assistance - without help on this forum I would never have been able to accomplish what I did so nice to know I'm of some help to others.

I purchased a bulk pack of 5.5" Acoustical Cotton (4 pcs - 24"x94"x5.5"). This can make 2 floor to ceiling corner absorbers 2' wide, 94" tall, and 11" thick. As my height was not as high I think I used 3 and got one left over - I had planed to fill the lower part of the proscenium with it but never got around to it.

Cheers,
Mark

Thanks for the help Mark.

Mark,

chris just responded to a question in my thread suggesting that you might have thoughts. i am considering doing light walls in my room with a dark ceiling, screen wall and floor. i am wondering what your experience is with this. do you find the light walls at all distracting? do you wish you had gone darker?

details of what i am considering are in my thread.

greg

Greg,

I assume you mean as I have the light golden fabric panels......the top of the walls and ceiling are a deep red. But, No not any issues with the walls being distracting. Only thing I found distracting was the star ceiling so I don't use it during a movie. I just use a rope in soffet.

Looks like your GOM is a little lighter than mine but I think providing you go dark on ceiling and dark across front wall the rest of the room just disappears. It really comes down to personal taste.

Cheers,
Mark

Hey - I'm on my daughters itouch, sitting on deck, drinking beer and surfing AVS. How cool (or sad) is that.

How cool (or sad) is that.

That's very both... very, very both.

I gotta get me one of them.

Maybe if you'd stop playing with your little girl toys, you'd get some REAL work done.

Oh, wait, I should be doing that in my thread. Nevermid.

Hey you can hack your daughters iTouch to control your HT =).... Now there is a worthy project !

Maybe if you'd stop playing with your little girl toys, you'd get some REAL work done.

Oh, wait, I should be doing that in my thread. Nevermid.

Tom remember - you started BEFORE me and I'm finished and off doing other projects which will also be BEFORE your HT :D

Tom remember - you started BEFORE me and I'm finished and off doing other projects which will also be BEFORE your HT :D

*ZING*

Hey you can hack your daughters iTouch to control your HT =).... Now there is a worthy project !

Nah - my URC MX-980 meets all my needs :D

Mark,
You have fios right? If you do, did they use your existing coax in the house for tv?

Cathan and I are wondering =P

Mark,
You have fios right? If you do, did they use your existing coax in the house for tv?

Cathan and I are wondering =P

Yep got FiOS.

In the main they did......I had rerouted all internal coax to a central distribution point and althou there was a few coax's going back to the external cable drop I also ran a 3/4" conduit.....thay used this to pull a new Coax feed and power for the FiOS external box. Then they used a 8-way splitter and connected to the existing coax

Did they put an outlet on the outside of your house for it? Did I read that correctly?

All my coax goes into a central closet, I only have 1 coax that goes outside the house, its also where all my cat5 networking terminates. I am hoping they can just put there stuff in my closet?

The Optical Network Terminal (ONT) is on the exterior of the house. This is where the fiber stops and convert to copper.

The ONT needs power - the power unit and backup battery goes on inside the house - but you need a path for the power cable......as mentioned they run mine thru a conduit (about 30').

Then for TV/Internet they run from the ONT a coax to your didtribution.....in my case they put a 8-way splitter that goes to the TV's and router.

Then from ONT they link into the Telephones......this diagram is pretty accurate only there is no Cat5 between ONT & Router

http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k242/BritInVA/fiosdiagram.jpg

Mark, was that a Channel Plus 8-way splitter?

Bud

Mark, was that a Channel Plus 8-way splitter?

Bud

Bud - No, they used a PDI Mega Splitter (PDI-8WMVS-5 5-1000MHZ 8 way)

Cheers,
Mark

Was it a splitter/amplified or just a splitter, and thanks for the pics, makes things very clear, will be interesting to see when they do my house, as to where they will get power from.

Was it a splitter/amplified or just a splitter, and thanks for the pics, makes things very clear, will be interesting to see when they do my house, as to where they will get power from.

Just a splitter.

Hi Guy's,

Been a bit absent from the forum of late..... work has kept me busy. Althou not much has changed since I've been gone. Tom still hasn't done anything on his HT, Big is still gearing up to program his remote and still no Panny BD-50 confirmed date.

Cheers,
Mark

Hi Guy's,

Been a bit absent from the forum of late..... work has kept me busy. Althou not much has changed since I've been gone. Tom still hasn't done anything on his HT, Big is still gearing up to program his remote and still no Panny BD-50 confirmed date.

Cheers,
Mark

Mark, have you taken a look at the new Sammy 1500? BonusView/BD1.1 profile capable, FW upgradeable to 2.0, bitstreams all the advanced codecs (and decodes TrueHD), and very snappy performance. Considered to have a picture as good or better then the PS3, which is amongst the top.

Today is the last day of the Walmart sale ($349 + $100 giftcard), and I was able to get Best Buy to price match and throw in the card as well...

Steve,

Was this online or in store? Online is out of stock....... also BB price online is higher.

You got one - what do you think?

Cheers,
Mark

Just picked up the Sammy BD-P1500 at Walmart for $388 + $100 GC.

Now got to swap my Netflix rentals to include Blu-ray

Just picked up the Sammy BD-P1500 at Walmart for $388 + $100 GC.

Now got to swap my Netflix rentals to include Blu-ray

I'd wager I know where that last machine came from. ;)

Enjoy!

OK my receiver (Denon AVR2807) only has 2 HDMI inputs which currently serves an Oppo OPD971H and Toshiba HD-A3

Now I have the Samsung BD-P1500 - should I switch the Oppo to component (will it upscale to 720p over component?) or should I go with a HDMI switcher?

PJ is Panny 900AE so only 720p.

Cheers,
Mark

Found my answer in the Opp DV971 Brain Dump thread (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=491306) only 480i over component. Looks like I need a HDMI switcher.

Anyone recommend one that will work with IR?

Cheers,
Mark

The other thought is the A3 Mark... it's going to be a "Betamax" soon. I know... I have an A30... :(

Maybe just have it give up it's HDMI.

PS- Why a seperate DVD player?

Well I have a collection of about 20 HD-DVD's, so need to be able play them but I think what your suggesting is to put the A3 on to component - that will still output at 720p over component (I think).

Reason for keeping the Oppo was it up converted better than the A3, have not connected the Sammy cannot comment but from what most say the Blu-rays tend not to up convert so well...... also why put millage on the Blu-ray for SD material......and got room in rack (just not on receiver).

Cheers,
Mark

Monoprice has a 3x1 hdmi switch that works with IR, I'll see if I can dig up a link, works great! Using it with an xbox 360 and hd-a2.

Here you go! This is the newer version of my switch and you get an additional port.

God I love monoprice...

http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=101&cp_id=10110&cs_id=1011002&p_id=4088&seq=1&format=2

Thanks - mastiff34

I'm going to try the component method first, been reading up and I should be able to get 720p via component.

Can't believe the Sammy is still sitting in its box...... I must be busy

Thanks - mastiff34

I'm going to try the component method first, been reading up and I should be able to get 720p via component.

Can't believe the Sammy is still sitting in its box...... I must be busy

Mine sat for a week while I waited for a monoprice HDMI cable to replace the one my buddy stole from me... no way I was paying $35 for a 3' cable at a local B&M store...

I just opened the box to get the manual to read on plane - can not believe that they include standard video cables in the box. I can see people using them to connect to thier 1080p sets and wondering what all the Blu-ray fuss is about.

I had to order (from monoprice) a component cable and an optical audio cable too (for the A3) so be Friday before I actually connect it up.

Finally watched my first Blu-ray on the Sammy - Disney's Wild Hogs.

Great picture (bearing in mind my PJ's 720p) and great Audio (again I'm restricted to DD+).

Was nice to watch a Hi-Def movie without any glitches. Hopefully future Blu-ray experience will be equally pleasing.

Cheers,
Mark

This is an off topic post so feel free to close and go about your business. Post is to prove to Loganator that after a summer lull I'm back working.

As some may remember my master bedroom suffers from being cold in Winter and hot in summer. The room is above the garage and you can feel the cold/heat on the floor around the bay window.

http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k242/BritInVA/IMG_4594.jpg

So phase 1 was to tackle insulation issues.

From this picture you can see the exposed area under the bay, there is insulation but some had fallen. The rest of the area is uninsulated.

http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k242/BritInVA/Other/deb6520d.jpg

What I did was to install 2" foam board surround the bay and all exposed areas of the house walls. Spray foam was used to seal adjoining edges and any gaps.

http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k242/BritInVA/Other/4388a4a6.jpg

Is there any point in putting insulation in the garage ceiling under the roof area?

The other area I looked at was under the master bedroom where there is an external wall.

http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k242/BritInVA/Other/5d8f8207.jpg

You can see again was well insulated but I decided to install the 2" foam board here also.

http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k242/BritInVA/Other/ebcb65a2.jpg

Have put insulation back - just need to drywall.

Phase 2 will be to change existing master bedroom ceiling into a multi tier soffet - something like this.

http://www.electronichouse.com/images/uploads/meadeBR_artUP_300.jpg

Cheers,
Mark

You had better call dibs on the lift!

Mark:

I'm still following your thread, and it's still relevant to me! I too have a MBR over the garage. My room has a cathedral ceiling. I notice that the temperature is about 2 degrees colder in the winter and 2-3 degrees warmer in the summer. It's not enough to bother me yet. I have chaulked it up to the cathedral ceiling more than the garage underneath.

How large is your temperature difference? You said it was centered around one area? You are also working to change the ceiling? What is it now?

Good luck with the renovations, and please feel free to keep the lift as long as you wish (it *is* your lift )..to slow Tom down!

CJ

I also have a MBR above the garage with a cathedral ceiling. I haven't noticed a huge difference between it and the other rooms in the upstairs. Might be due to the following:

1. Ceiling fan running constantly in the proper mode (winter/summer).
2. Thermostat for the upstairs is in the MBR.
3. Heat and AC registers/returns aplenty. Even the walk-in closet and master bath have heat and AC supplies (both with entrances from MBR).
4. The cathedral ceiling only shares air space with the roof for a small section. In the attic, you see an insulated box sticking up through the ceiling joists... The MBR ceiling only follows the roof line for about 6 feet at an angle.

Just some additional useless tidbits. :)

Yeah, mine too is a cathedral and can be as much as 5 degrees difference. The room is quite large 19'x19', 8' at perimeter going up to about 14' at peak.....room has 3 in registers and one return..... no thermostat in room

I notice that the bay floor was noticeably hot or cold hence pulling down the garage ceiling.....I think the culprit was some loose insulation.

While I like high cathedral ceilings what I don't like about this one is that its not symmetrical so make any decor changes awkward.

http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k242/BritInVA/Other/c9d4ae0f.jpg

So hoping that buy ding a multi-soffet/coffered ceiling I'll add symmetry and some architectural detail.....plus reduce the cubic volume to cool/heat. I also noticed that whereas the loft has about 15" of loose insulation the cathedral part looks to only be R19 so I'll add additional insulation above the new ceiling.

Hopefully start the new ceiling next weekend.

Cheers,
Mark

Well I had our friendly NoVA helper (lets see who is first to recognize him) over today and made a start on the Master Bedroom ceiling. Got all the engineered I-Joists in place.

http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k242/BritInVA/Other/f9d7264e.jpg

http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k242/BritInVA/Other/05219624.jpg

Due to the roof slant I have to construct the ceiling structure manually.

http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k242/BritInVA/Other/d0006570.jpg

So a big Thanks to Mr NoVA - could not have got all those beams up without him.

Cheers,
Mark

Mark,

Things seem to be coming along nicely mate. May I ask which projectors are you considering?

I too am an expat. Guess I can call myself BritInFL..

Cheers,
~hemster

Hemster - we will slowly take this country back under the reign of Blighty :D

My HT is actually complete (for now) - see first post for an index. I currently have a Panasonic AE900U (720P). When I get finished with other household projects I'll revisit my screen and PJ to go 2.35:1 and 1080P.

Cheers,
Mark

I have an answer Alex...Who is Jeff (or BigMouthInDC)?

Man, that guy gets around!

CJ

Biggie! Drat, I was late.

Mark,

Looks like you've taken on another lengthy but rewarding project. I can't wait to see the completed job.

BTW -- your house looks really nice from the outside :)

I thought it was Dick Cheney...

I thought it was Dick Cheney...

Dick wishes he was as good looking as me.

Dick wishes he was as good looking as me.

Now that's funny right there. I don't care who you are!

CJ

Lucky enough Dick did not bring his shotgun :eek:

Reasonably productive day, got some of the hand made joists done. Was a PITA as had to rip lumber with 15deg angle and then as the existing ceiling is not 'true' had to ensure they were level with the perfectly level one me & Big put up.

the perfectly level one me & Big put up.

Big and I. How can you take the country back if you don't learn the language? We speak English here.

^^ Ha Ha, with what you guy's have done to the English language I think I can live with a few grammar errors

What do you mean? We speak English, like, real good and stuff.

Cor blimey me old china, I can hardley adam and eve what some of you blokes say sometimes :D

This is an off topic post so feel free to close and go about your business.

Made good progress on the MB ceiling. Framing 99% complete - just need to add a few more cross-braces. Also electrical nearly complete. Hope to get the small stuff completed during the week and then its insulation and drywall.

http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k242/BritInVA/Other/aad535bb.jpg

http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k242/BritInVA/Other/042c7670.jpg

Cheers,
Mark

Nice work Mark. How high is the lowest tier of the ceiling going to be?

Lowest teir is 8', next tier is 8' 6" anf then up to 9'.

I would have like to have had the lowest tier at 9' but alas the slope of ceiling meant that was not possible.

Jeff,

Dont you have a theater to finish or at least a universal remote to program...

Mark,

Did the laser level work out for you?

Are you going to angle the corners of both levels or just the bottom?

Mike - I don't think I could have done this without that 360 laser level.

At first I was a bit dubious about whether I had manually got it level. Was quite difficult when you need to get your self above it to see the level indicators. But when Jeff came over he had a self leveling level - not 360 but we used it to double check the level lines I had marked and they were pretty much spot on.

When I was making the beams where I-beams would not fit I screwed a 2x3 to the ceiling (beveled at 15deg for ceiling slope) and used some white masking tape on the bottom edge of the OSB to find the level.......worked great.

Cheers,
Mark

Jeff - At this time just going with lower level with angled corners

Insulated

http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k242/BritInVA/Other/119fb0bb.jpg

And sheet-rocked

http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k242/BritInVA/Other/2597ffbb.jpg

Now for mudding and taping :(

My company changed its vacation policy so I'm in need of reducing my vacation accruals so off this week

Where's the shot of the RISC clips and Green Glue? How about the decisions about where to put lights or which drywall supplier to use? I'm a bit miffed at how you call this a "build" thread!

In all seriousness, the bedroom is looking great! That's a lot of work.

Check out the dustless drywall compound. http://www.downwithdust.com

Also, try the box fan with a really good furnace filter trick for catching the last little bit of dust when sanding.

Good luck!

CJ

Looks great, Mark. Man, I don't miss drywall!

Bud

Brit, the ceiling looks awesome. I've used your HT build for inspiration and although I'm not remodeling my MBR, I'm enjoying tracking your progress.

Hmmm. Changed your mind?

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b393/bigmouthindc/DSC01726.jpg

Where's the shot of the RISC clips and Green Glue? How about the decisions about where to put lights or which drywall supplier to use? I'm a bit miffed at how you call this a "build" thread!


Well I did run a Cat 5e and RG6 for the 40" LCD



Check out the dustless drywall compound. http://www.downwithdust.com

Also, try the box fan with a really good furnace filter trick for catching the last little bit of dust when sanding.


I thought I had got the dust control mud but alas appears not. Luckily most of the corner joints will be hidden by crown mouldins and I put drywall up to minimize joints.

Looks great, Mark. Man, I don't miss drywall!

Bud

yes, the taping/mudding was one part of job I was not looking forward to

Brit, the ceiling looks awesome. I've used your HT build for inspiration and although I'm not remodeling my MBR, I'm enjoying tracking your progress.

Thanks maybe this will enspire everyone to tacklr MBR after their HT's :D

Hmmm. Changed your mind?


Yeah, didn't look quite right square. Was a compromise of trying to maximize the higher ceiling area and taking squareness off.

OK let's vote:

Mark's design:

http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k242/BritInVA/Other/2597ffbb.jpg

Big's recommendation:

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b393/bigmouthindc/DSC01727.jpg

Notice how the "rhythm" of the lines actually draws you eyes upward and emphasizes the height of the room. Mark in your design the eyes are drawn to the intersection of the first and second levels because the sharp blunt corner points to that place in the room.

OK let's vote:

Mark's design:

http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k242/BritInVA/Other/2597ffbb.jpg

Big's recommendation:

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b393/bigmouthindc/DSC01727.jpg

Notice how the "rhythm" of the lines actually draws you eyes upward and emphasizes the height of the room. Mark in your design the eyes are drawn to the intersection of the first and second levels because the sharp blunt corner points to that place in the room.

I agree with this recommendation.

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b393/bigmouthindc/DSC01727.jpg



Jeff - So if the length of the current angled corner is 48" and the next tier is 24" out what will the length of the new angle?

My issue I have is there is a smoke detector that I need to factor in.

Cheers,
Mark

I like Jeff's design. It looks much more symmetrical.

CJ

Jeff - So if the length of the current angled corner is 48" and the next tier is 24" out what will the length of the new angle?

My issue I have is there is a smoke detector that I need to factor in.


Worked it out to be 30" and does not impeed on smoke detector. So looks like some modifications are in order. Better now than later.

I also like Big's recommendation. With Mark's design I do a double take, and wonder what happened as the smaller section looks out of place.

yes, the taping/mudding was one part of job I was not looking forward to

So looks like some modifications are in order. Better now than later.

Well the good news is you get to put off doing the dreaded taping and mudding :D, bad news is it delays getting done sooner. :(

I also like the recommendation. I believe the extra effort will well be worth it. Keep up the great work, the room is looking great!

Worked it out to be 30" and does not impeed on smoke detector. So looks like some modifications are in order. Better now than later.

I didn't think of it till this morning but the easiest way is to just measure out from your first angled corner the same amount as the ledge (24 inches) on the straight sides. Then what ever it takes to hit that mark is what you need.

In other words that middle step is the same width all the way around the room including the corners.

OK let's vote:

Big's recommendation:

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b393/bigmouthindc/DSC01727.jpg

I prefer Big's idea. I like the symmetrical look as well.

1+ for Biggie's recommendation.


Nice work Mark. It looks great.

Biggie for President!!!

Well what can I say an over-whelming vote for Bigs suggestion.

Well who am I to argue

http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k242/BritInVA/Other/0b6ea427.jpg

I even threw something in to please CJ

Cheers,
Mark

WooooHooooo! Green Glue!

The change looks really good Mark.

CJ

I :(:(:( mudding & taping

Man it slows you down waiting for this stuff to dry so you can get onto next step.

BTW Big - really glad you pointed out my design error. Looks much better now.

There is an additative that you can add to compound that will make it a special type of compound. If memory serves...that stuff dries fully in 45 or 90 minutes or so and can be worked immediately afterward.

Check your local drywall house for info about that.

CJ

Well I did run a Cat 5e and RG6 for the 40" LCD

I expect to recieve my HDMI cables today. Once I get those run, I'm pretty sure the only cabling left will be some cat5. I'm really only expecting to need a run from the front of the room to the equipment closet for an IR repeater. I'll also run equip to projector and projector to front, just in case.

So,
Cat5e or 6?
Is it easy to terminte or do I need finished cables?

Tom

Cat5e or 6?
Is it easy to terminte or do I need finished cables?

Tom

Cat 5e should be fine but to be for your needs within the HT. Easy to terminate and I have the tool you can use.

OK, thanks.

I :(:(:( mudding & taping

Man it slows you down waiting for this stuff to dry so you can get onto next step.


when you only have limited time you can use hot mud. There are several types with setting times of 5,15 and 30 minutes. The crew that did my office area only had one day to do the entire job. The included hanging the drywall, and then the taping and mudding.

I noticed that they used hot mud for everything up until the final skim coat. It was so thin it dried quickly. for sanding. The other thicker coats were all hot mud.

There is an additative that you can add to compound that will make it a special type of compound. If memory serves...that stuff dries fully in 45 or 90 minutes or so and can be worked immediately afterward.

Check your local drywall house for info about that.

CJ

when you only have limited time you can use hot mud. There are several types with setting times of 5,15 and 30 minutes. The crew that did my office area only had one day to do the entire job. The included hanging the drywall, and then the taping and mudding.

I noticed that they used hot mud for everything up until the final skim coat. It was so thin it dried quickly. for sanding. The other thicker coats were all hot mud.

In hindsight should have used one of these for the 1st and maybe 2nd coats.

I've got a new problem - some of the but joint tapes have bubbled along the crease in the tape. Am I right only option is the remove and try again?

Am I right only option is the remove and try again?

I think you need to take a mulligan on this. Start over and do it again...

:o

CJ

I've got a new problem - some of the but joint tapes have bubbled along the crease in the tape. Am I right only option is the remove and try again?

Is it the solid paper tape? If so you might want to try alternatives next time. Perforated or the fiberglass mesh.

Did you put a coat of mud on top of the tape when you applied it? I was told that's a no no by the guy I hired. Just lay down a bed, put on a tape, squeeze out the excess and let it dry. If you put a layer on top before the bed is dry it can lift the tape out of the bed as the outer layer dries (bubble).

I used solid paper on the but joints - but cheated (never been able to master taping) and used drywall tape adhesive 95% is fine - just got a couple of joints bubble......looks like I'll have to pull tape and redo

Did you put a coat of mud on top of the tape when you applied it? I was told that's a no no by the guy I hired. Just lay down a bed, put on a tape, squeeze out the excess and let it dry. If you put a layer on top before the bed is dry it can lift the tape out of the bed as the outer layer dries (bubble).


I always heard that you DO put a coat over top of the tape.

Good to know not to, for, you know, when I get around to that point.

Just thought post latest status

http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k242/BritInVA/Other/c7d4696d.jpg

Still working on fireplace and baseboard - hopefully complete everything this weekend.

Wow Brit,

It really came together nicely, looks great.

Great Job Mark! I really like the color choice. - BillMac

Great work Mark! Want to come over and mud/tape my new game room? I have been avoiding that project like the plague. :cool:

I think the effort was worth it. You've definitely added some intrinsic value that will payoff when you get ready to sell.

I like how that molding wraps the edges. Did you cheat on putting on corner beads and mudding those edges? It would certainly save some time.

Justed noticed that your windows don't have any molding any plans?

Thanks everyone

Jason - believe me when I say my mudding/taping is far from perfect but my wife say's I'm just being anal about it.

Big, yes I cheated and did not mud/tape where mouldings are. Just silicone :D Above the windows and bed there will be custom treatments. You can see them in this older picture

http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k242/BritInVA/Other/c9d4ae0f.jpg

very nice...........

Looks awesome Mark. Really nice!

CJ

Looks great. Post a before and after photos taken the same perspective if you can.

wow, looks great mark

Nice work Mark, looks awesome!

Well 99% done... but wife wanted to move back in the room before I was finished....just need to connect the fireplace romex at the panel, build the fireplace mantle/TV shelf and buy a new 47" HDTV for Family Room so we can move the 40" HDTV into the bedroom.

http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k242/BritInVA/Other/f585189a.jpg

http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k242/BritInVA/Other/72a8ecfd.jpg

I looked and don't have any before shots other than the one post 1123 (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showpost.php?p=14957458&postcount=1123)

[QUOTE=BritInVA;7620271]Some pictures.

First the screen wall


Hello ,
this is an amazing resource for newbies like me to setting up a HT

question for you:

Is is good design practice to run the speaker wires thru the tubes ?
what is the type ot tubes that you used for running the speaker wires?
R they available in H Depot ?
also wondering about the guage of the speaker wire that was used 14 AWG or 16AWG ?

thank you for the help in advance

thanks

Dekapp

question for you:

Is is good design practice to run the speaker wires thru the tubes ?
what is the type ot tubes that you used for running the speaker wires?
R they available in H Depot ?
also wondering about the guage of the speaker wire that was used 14 AWG or 16AWG ?

Using conduit is for future proofing - so for speaker wire's I personally don't think it's really necessary. Speaker wire technology has not changed much over the years (well some would try to have you believe it has). I ran it because I was lucky to get a large coil free of a fellow AVS'r.

Where you want to run conduit for sure is from equipment closet to PJ and to the front screen, you don't necessarily need to run your original cables thru the conduit - If I was doing again I'd tie the cable to outside of conduit.

You might also want to think about running conduit to other locations both in the HT (say for extra potential sub locations) and to other areas like to telephone/cable entry points and attic.

You can pick up the blue 'smurf' tube in 10' lengths at HD or Lowe's - usually 3/4" or 1/2". But I'd recommend ordering on a coil to avoid joins were cables can snag when your pulling cables. For PJ and to front thou I'd recommend minimum 2". I used the rigid 2" grey conduit you also find at HD or Lowe's.

For Speaker wire I got a 500' spoil of 12 GA (CLR3) from parts express - probably overkill.

Good luck on your build.

Cheers,
Mark

Great job Mark- I really like the color tones, brings out the trim/crown moulding nicely.

Thank you for the help

Dekapp

move the 40" HDTV into the bedroom

Looks great! BUT....that's NOT what you should be doing in that room. I can think of at least two things better to do in there. Three, if you wired for a video camera. I'm just saying....

Looks great! BUT....that's NOT what you should be doing in that room. I can think of at least two things better to do in there. Three, if you wired for a video camera. I'm just saying....

Hey - this is not Rastegates thread so keep you dirty mind to yourself

Nice job on the bedroom! Great color choice!

We have a similar setup in our bedroom, although it is rectangular. They did our crown opposite of yours, putting the light tray at the bottom and the top molding right against the roof. I didn't even think about doing it the other way. Looks good! I can see though that we need to paint our bedroom! :D I also want to add some can lights.

Here is a shot where you can just barely see the rope light in the tray.

http://www.pbase.com/madawson/image/93519257.jpg

if i ever have a question with my dedicated HT,Will you help me.

Sure. You will find plenty of help on this forum - gladly help with any questions.

Cheers,
Mark

Some progress over the weekend - got the proscenium framing done. Was a little challenging as the max width of the side enclosures was dictated by the width of the soffits - 17"

Problem with this is my subwoofer will be 14" wide add 2" of 703 and leaves me with 1" for the frame :( . So as you can see from pic below I decided not to build a frame at bottom - will just create 1/2" width full height panels for the dazian fabric.

http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k242/BritInVA/HT/stage4.jpg

I've also primed/sealed the drywall which will be painted. Hopefully this week will get HT ceiling/walls painted and the front screen treatments in place and next weekend start on the wood paneling.

Cheers,
Mark

Your theater looks awsome. I have a few questions about your screen wall.

1) Where is your center channel speaker located? Under the screen? If so, how high from stage?

2) How deep is your screen wall from the back wall? I believe you placed your screen closer to the wall.

Thank You,
Dave

Your theater looks awsome. I have a few questions about your screen wall.


Thanks Dave - the family is still enjoying it.

1) Where is your center channel speaker located? Under the screen? If so, how high from stage?


Under the screen, its sitting on a 4" cinder block angled towards the ears.

2) How deep is your screen wall from the back wall? I believe you placed your screen closer to the wall.

Yes, screen is recessed in a shadow box by 11"

Cheers,
Mark

Thank you very much Mark for answering my questions. By having the screen recessed and having the bottom and sides out farther you created room for the speakers and sub without having to sacrifice throw distance and further reducing theater length.

Thank you very much Mark for answering my questions. By having the screen recessed and having the bottom and sides out farther you created room for the speakers and sub without having to sacrifice throw distance and further reducing theater length.

Correct - but my design limits the sub to the corners which is not a good thing (as I have since learned). I'll be making some DIY subs that will fit either side of the center - hopefully in a couple of months.

You are correct. I heard a sub should be located 1/3 the distance of the wall. So if you have a 12' wide front wall the sub should be located 4' in from either side.

From THX

http://www.thx.com/home/setup/speakers/sub.html

SUBWOOFER PLACEMENT
There are a few variations for subwoofer placement, depending on how many subwoofers you have for your system. If you have four subs, place them cross pattern in the middle of each wall. If you have two, put them in the middle of opposing walls. If you have one, place it in the middle of the front wall.

Or for deeper reading:

http://www.rivesaudio.com/files/spkr_plcmt.pdf

Well, I am glad I heard that on sub placement....since I was using BritInVA's screen wall for inspiration. I have limited distance from the front wall to the row of seating. I will tweak my plans and hopefully have the ability to build the portion of the screen wall under the screen deeper to fit my future HSU sub.

BritInVA: Have you tried your sub from the right corner that sub is in and moved in temporairily closer to the center? If so, did you notice a difference?

By the way, Bud is the one that directed me to think about your design for my HT room. He lives right down the road for me.

Thanks.

BritinVA has certainly been an inspiration to me as well. I feel it is important to leave enough room for future expansion within your screen wall and BritinVA has done just that. Your speakers and sub sizes might change when you upgrade.

Unfortunately I don't have the height/width along the front to place my current sub.....hence why I want to custom build a sub either side of the center.

I have brought out the sub onto the stage, just in front of the right proscenium and do see an improvement but I want more - I can blame Steve (swithey) for that after experiencing his IB the LFE simple blew me away (pun intended). I don't have room for an IB so going to look into a TL but not sure if I can work that around the center.

I've also thought about cutting a hole in the wall between the HT & the Equipment closet and relocating the sub there. It would be about 6' along left wall and hidden by the wall treatment. But think this would allow more bass to escape upstairs.

Still got some thinking to do.

Glad it didn't build my screen wall yet based on that information. I will extend the bottom of my screen wall out approx. 8" to allow for the sub to be closer to the center of the screen wall. I'm glad I continue to view BritInVA's post. I guess I was originally concerned with it being too close to the center channel.

My issue is not the width but rather the height of my sub :(

Well with the help of some local members I performed some measurements of my room.

- REW v4.11 b1086
- Toshiba Tecra laptop running Windows XP
- M-Audio Mobile Pre USB Souncard
- Beringer ECM 8000 mic (calibrated)

This is the initial measurements with subwoofer (no mains) located in the right corner of the screen wall.

http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k242/BritInVA/HT/REW/subwoofer-measurement-4-21-feb09.jpg

And this is the measurement with subwoofer and the mains.

http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k242/BritInVA/HT/REW/subwoofermains-measurement-ph0-1-21.jpg

After moving the subwoofer to the left corner of the screen and chaging phase from 0 to 180deg here are the results.

Subwoofer only

http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k242/BritInVA/HT/REW/subl_ph180.jpg

And subwoofer with mains

http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k242/BritInVA/HT/REW/sublmains_ph180.jpg

Going to do some listening and maybe tryout a 2nd sub in right corner.

Cheers,
Mark

For us mentally challenged, what is the best graph? what is the goal?

The goal is to have your graph look like the target (blue) line. So you can see on his chart that he has a big null right around 50s Hz. In the last chart with the sub moved to the left side of the room and with the mains, his sub response is geting close to that blue line curve.

The goal is to have your graph look like the target (blue) line. So you can see on his chart that he has a big null right around 50s Hz. In the last chart with the sub moved to the left side of the room and with the mains, his sub response is geting close to that blue line curve.

Michael:

Thanks for the explaination. If one wants to get the stuff to do this, what would one need?

Can you actually closely approximate the blue line? How is the blue line determines? Is it the same for every room?

CJ

Mark,

Have you thought about turning the sub around so the port isn't firing directly into the room and test the response that way?

Bill

Mark,

Have you thought about turning the sub around so the port isn't firing directly into the room and test the response that way?

Bill

I guess I'll be trying that tomorrow :)

For us mentally challenged, what is the best graph? what is the goal?

As Micheal stated, you want the mesurement to follow the blue line (house curve) as much as possible for the subwoofer.

Still learning this myself :confused:

OK, made some more measurements comparing the Subs port facing forward into the room and facing rear into the accoustic contton.

First just the Sub

http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k242/BritInVA/HT/REW/combined_sub_l_ph180.jpg

And now Sub + Mains

http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k242/BritInVA/HT/REW/combined_sub_and_mains_l_ph180.jpg

Not sure what is best.

Anyone know?

Cheers,
Mark

doesn't look like it really matters.

Mark,

The 2nd looks better to me -- but IMO, spend the $100 and get one of the Behringer EQs (http://www.zzounds.com/item--BEHDSP1124P). This will allow you to pull up those dips and smooth out the peeks -- making the room very even. It just takes some patience to get it right but well worth it in the end.

I believe the newer model (http://www.zzounds.com/item--BEHFBQ2496) ($150) can be auto programmed by REW (http://www.hometheatershack.com/roomeq/) (which I think you are already using).

How do you equalize the four main channels (L/R/C/S) with a two channel unit? Buy 2?

The BFD's I believe are just for the LFE not the main speakers......if you want to do the higher frequencies thats were it starts getting real expensive needing separate amps & equalizers I think.

Not sure if you have two subs if you need 2 BFD's

Decided to take the plunge and ordered the Behringer DSP1124P. Hopefully get it before next weekend.

How do you equalize the four main channels (L/R/C/S) with a two channel unit? Buy 2?
Yes, just LFE. The BFE allows for 2 channels so you "could" do both subs at the same time.

Dr. Mark will you be making NOVA house calls now that you have this all figured out? We could create a Help Michael pay for his toys fund.

Yeah, I'm up for surgery :)

Think we should keep numbers low for each surgery.......was a bit difficult to concentrate last week hence our mistakes. But the REW help could have been better. But hey can't grumble when its free.

And I'm will willing contribute to Michaels fund for buying the expensive tots for us to play with.

Cheers.
Mark

Michael:

Thanks for the explaination. If one wants to get the stuff to do this, what would one need?

Can you actually closely approximate the blue line? How is the blue line determines? Is it the same for every room?

CJ

?

This will allow you to pull up those dips

Steve - I thought you cound onlt deal with the peaks and not the dips with the BFD.

?

I think Michael is going to post a listing of the components/parts in his thread.

My understanding is that yoi try to get as close to the target within +1db to -1db.....and there are various thoughts what that line should be depending if its for movies or music.

Steve - I thought you cound onlt deal with the peaks and not the dips with the BFD.
It can add "positive" values to help with the dips but you don't want to add too much in the EQ -- for audio quality reasons. I'm sure there are others that can ring in and give a more scientific explanation. Just make it flat as you can and see how it goes. Nothing is ever perfectly flat but you get as close as you can.

One other thing you might consider is moving your subs around. The best "visual" place is not always the best sounding location. With your luck, the best place for both subs is right smack in the middle of the room :D :p

Moving subs is not really an option without ruining the aesthetics. Hopefully I can find a way to neutralize the dip around 57Hz.

Also when I combined Left and Right subwoofer measurements that had a nice impact on that dip so maybe a 2nd sub could be on the way :cool:

http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k242/BritInVA/HT/REW/combined_sub_and_mains_landr_ph180_.jpg

Nothing is ever perfectly flat but you get as close as you can.


If they were, everyone would be really paranoid.:)

Michael:

Thanks for the explaination. If one wants to get the stuff to do this, what would one need?

Can you actually closely approximate the blue line? How is the blue line determines? Is it the same for every room?

CJ

I'll have time to post the parts list tomorrow. Sorry I didn't get to it today. I think I spent around $400 for all the parts including the BFD. In the grand sceme of things, I saw it as a necessity to get my space tuned up. BPape will need the data to design the treatments.

No worries. Thanks, Michael. No hurry. I just want to understand this stuff.

Got a pointer to some info on decyphering the curves and room tuning in general?

Thanks, again.

CJ

BFD has shipped and should be here tomorrow :D

Now just need the other adapters/connectors to ship from Parts Express.

Mark,

Which model did you buy?

Bill

which model did you buy?


dsp1124p

dsp1124p

I picked mine up last spring from Guitar Center for a very good price. I was also able to get the patch cords that you will need for the connectors on the back (large phono plugs).

When you get your BFD and are running REW, make sure you measure in a couple different locations first to get a better idea of the room acoustics. That dip you see at 57 Hz may be related to an 11.8 ft dimension somewhere in your room and you really can't boost that much using the BFD. IMHO, you can only boost very small amounts to make up for a small deficiency in the sub, but I wouldn't try to boost out a null. You may be surprised how how moving 2 feet in some direction (up/down, left/right) changes the graph. :D

With REW you can average several close locations and set the filters from that. I think it will give you better results in terms of widening the sweet spot.

Good Point Greg!

Mark, Try running a continuous test tone through the sub and walk around the room. Chances are you'll hear a dip in the SPL in one or two locations.

One of my last tests when I had all the proscenium covers back in place with the sub pushed about 1" back had a much less dip at 57hz.

I've ordered an RCA to 1/4" adapter which I believe is all I need. I also just went out and got a cheater plug in case I encounter hum when introducing the BFD. Will be a short term fix so I can play while getting to the root cause.....but hopefully won't get the hum.

When I get the BFD and my parts I'll reset every thing up and perform some tests either side of the prime seat and then average.

Also had mike pointing straight up, from what I've read its recommended a slight tilt (80deg) toward the front.

No worries. Thanks, Michael. No hurry. I just want to understand this stuff.

Got a pointer to some info on decyphering the curves and room tuning in general?

Thanks, again.

CJ

The two things I suggest you read is the REW guide and the BFD Guide. Both can be found on the Home Theater Shack (http://www.hometheatershack.com/forums/).

You may know this already, but the BFD stands for Behringer Feedback Destroyer. It's a bit of cheap (~$100) equipment that is designed to be used in concerts to find and eliminate feedback. Sub builders/tuners however use it as a cheap equalizer. The guide on the shack covers a lot of the basics and does the REW guide. Don't get stressed if you get lost while reading either guide. This stuff is a pain to figure out without actually at the same time physically taking the samples and playing with the equipment.

How do you equalize the four main channels (L/R/C/S) with a two channel unit? Buy 2?

REW is designed to just test and equalize subs and your mains. If you wanted to equalize other channels, you would need to hook up that speaker as your main to do the testing and (I guess) get a separate BFD to equalize them. If you want to manually equalize your entire system, I would invest in a real equalizer.

Really, REW shines for fixing bass and main cross-over related issues.

Hello Mark,

I see you are using the M-Audio MobilePre for your REW setup. I also have the MobilePre and am having some issues getting REW to work. I stated using REW with a Vista laptop and have since switched to an XP machine just to eliminate any issues Vista may cause.

When you go into Settings in REW and select the MobilePre for Output Device, what did you select for the Ouput (the box directly below)? Also same question for the Input box directly below the Input Device box?

Finally, did you use 44.1 or 48 for the Sample rate?

Thanks,
Rich

Rich,

These are the setting we used

http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k242/BritInVA/HT/REW/Settings-soundcard.jpg

Cheers,
Mark

REW is designed to just test and equalize subs and your mains. If you wanted to equalize other channels, you would need to hook up that speaker as your main to do the testing and (I guess) get a separate BFD to equalize them. If you want to manually equalize your entire system, I would invest in a real equalizer.

Really, REW shines for fixing bass and main cross-over related issues.

I agree, and since you have the Denon 2807, I would use that for equalizing the mains and surrounds. The Audyssey routine should be decent for that, and much better than using a parametric equalizer like the BFD. I would recommend you use all 6 listening positions of the Audyssey setup, even if you measure the same 3 points twice (which is what I do). I do the main listening position, then slightly left and right and repeat until I have accumulated the maximum listening points allowed.

The BFD is only good for the sub range, where some versions of Audyssey are not so good.

I agree, and since you have the Denon 2807, I would use that for equalizing the mains and surrounds. The Audyssey routine should be decent for that, and much better than using a parametric equalizer like the BFD. I would recommend you use all 6 listening positions of the Audyssey setup, even if you measure the same 3 points twice (which is what I do). I do the main listening position, then slightly left and right and repeat until I have accumulated the maximum listening points allowed.

The BFD is only good for the sub range, where some versions of Audyssey are not so good.

The comment posted by CATHAN was in response to a question from BIGMOUTHINDC and not in relation to my situation.

I've used the Audyssey routine a few time (using all 6 positions) and never been happy with it. Always found that the center and sub were too low. As far as I know the moment you make a change to tweak - Audyssey switches off. So I've calibrated manually using SPL meter.......maybe I'll give Audyssey one more shot

BFD has arrived

BFD has arrived

Congrats on the new toy! As for Audyssey, I am not familiar with the Denon implementation, but I have been quite happy with it on the Onkyo 805. In fact, I will probably sell my 1124 and all the cables, soundblaster, midi adapter, etc. at some point in the very near future. You do have to be very quiet, use a tripod, stay away from all surfaces and walls, and it should do a very nice job. It has the advantage of being able to make adjustments based on an impulse response, for direct as well as reflected sound. You can also bump the trims if you don't like the results. Some like the subs a little hotter, or the center bumped to help with the dialog, etc. :D

You can also bump the trims if you don't like the results. Some like the subs a little hotter, or the center bumped to help with the dialog, etc. :D

From what I've experienced with the Denon 2807 is if any of the speaker settings are changed MutiEQ XT/Audyssey switches off. This seems to be confirmed by the manual. Maybe I need to somhow muffle the center during the Audyssey setup......can always use the gain on the sub to increase that.

Mark,
This white paper is what a lot of people use for subwoofer placement guidance:

http://www.harman.com/wp/pdf/multsubs.pdf

Scroll down to the Conclusions and try placing 1 sub in front center and 1 back center. Put the back one in front of your bar and try taking a sweep (measurements).

Mark,
This white paper is what a lot of people use for subwoofer placement guidance:

http://www.harman.com/wp/pdf/multsubs.pdf

Scroll down to the Conclusions and try placing 1 sub in front center and 1 back center. Put the back one in front of your bar and try taking a sweep (measurements).

Problem now is I don't want the aesthetics of seeing subs......had I known what I know now the design would be much different. But that will need to wait for another house.

Lesson be learned to all.......don't neglect proper sub placement.

Mark,
I was thinking that once you found a spot where you got a good response you could then think about hiding the sub.

If it works best in the back center then one way to hide it would be in the bar. But, that would require a lot of rework and most likely a custom enclosure for the sub.

I guess it really depends on how important it is to you.

Rich,

These are the setting we used


Cheers,
Mark

Thanks... hopefully i can get this thing to work right.

Mark:

Maybe I missed it, but could you describe what you are trying to work out? What do you think is lacking in your system and how did you come to figure out what it was? It may help others of us work out our own setups (or future setups) by learning from your experience.

CJ

Thought I'd post the Audyssey results from tonight

FL----Large----10' 6" -1.0db
FR----Large----10' 8" 0.0db
C-----Large----10' 8" -5.0db
SW------------11' 6" +0.5db
SL----Small----6' -2.0db
SR----Small----5' 6" +7.5db

I made total of 6 measurements which were all mirrored on center of room (see below) so don't know why some of measurements are out of whack......the center really worries me as I always find with Audyssey its too weak. And as I mentioned if I tweak a setting Audyssey does not come on. I don't see this issue if I manually calibrate with an SPL meter.

http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k242/BritInVA/HT/REW/Audyssey.jpg

Going to check all speaker terminations tomorrow and re-run Audyssey. If its still out of whack will revert to manual calibration and get on with the subwoofer calibration.

Cheers,
Mark

Mark:

Maybe I missed it, but could you describe what you are trying to work out? What do you think is lacking in your system and how did you come to figure out what it was? It may help others of us work out our own setups (or future setups) by learning from your experience.

CJ

CJ,

Basically I always felt my LFE could be better - I blame Jason (JIKKJACK) as when I visited him he had same subwoofer and had more of an impact.

Cheers,
Mark

AHA. When I last got together with some of my HT friends, I was telling them that each time I visit a theater, it gets a little more expensive.

;)

CJ

:o - I didn't do it!!!


Ok - Mark, you have to stop using that Audyssey calibration.

All of your speakers should be SMALL...not LARGE as Audyssey likes to make them.

When they are large - they will try to have more bass and that adds distortion. Let that HSU monster tackle all the bass.

I recommend just using Avia and the rat shack SPL meter. I did that to program my Denon receiver and it sounded way better than the Denon Audyssey programming.

:o - I didn't do it!!!


Oh yes you did :D


I recommend just using Avia and the rat shack SPL meter. I did that to program my Denon receiver and it sounded way better than the Denon Audyssey programming.

Yep, thats how I had been doing it and overall happy with the sound. Was just the LFE......hopefully with combination of sub location change, phase change and the BFD I can get something I can live with (or I'll get 2nd sub)

Cheers,
Mark

Mark - my sub is in the right corner if you are looking at the screen and the ports fire across the screen to the left corner. Have you tried this port position yet?

Here is my problem, my sub can only fit tightly in the corner with either port facing forward or backward.....lets call it poor planning. :o

http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k242/BritInVA/HT/REW/IMG_4714.jpg

http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k242/BritInVA/HT/REW/IMG_4715.jpg

I decided to take afternoon off to play while no kids about.

Plan of action.
1) Check all speaker connections
2) Calibrate with Audyssey (write down settings)
3) Calibrate with DVE (compare settings)
4) Rerun the REW measurements
5) Configure BFD

Cheers,
Mark

What is to the left of the sub? Any chance you could cut open the wall there and fire the ports across the room? You could at least pull the sub out and fire it across the screen just to see if that gives any better numbers/results.

Thought I'd post the Audyssey results from tonight

FL----Large----10' 6" -1.0db
FR----Large----10' 8" 0.0db
C-----Large----10' 8" -5.0db
SW------------11' 6" +0.5db
SL----Small----6' -2.0db
SR----Small----5' 6" +7.5db



Just a small technicality, but Audyssey does not directly set your speakers to Large or Small. That is a choice that Denon makes based on the -3dB point that is sent back from Audyssey. Unfortunately, receiver manufacturers have set this cutoff too high, but are correcting it now (moving it down to 40 Hz). Even so, it is no big deal. You can change your speakers to small after running the Auto MultEQ routine. You can also adjust your trims if you feel they are not correct. This will change the Audyssey light from green to red (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=15467167#post15467167), but as long as that light is still on, the filters will be active. Red only means that a change has been made to the auto mode. That said, something is definitely amiss here with the large difference between the SL and SR. Hopefully you will find it this afternoon. :D With the same speakers, and distance that are nearly equal from the mic, the trims should be within 1-2 dB of each other.

Just a small technicality, but Audyssey does not directly set your speakers to Large or Small. That is a choice that Denon makes based on the -3dB point that is sent back from Audyssey. Unfortunately, receiver manufacturers have set this cutoff too high, but are correcting it now (moving it down to 40 Hz). Even so, it is no big deal. You can change your speakers to small after running the Auto MultEQ routine. You can also adjust your trims if you feel they are not correct. This will change the Audyssey light from green to red, but as long as that light is still on, the filters will be active. Red only means that a change has been made to the auto mode. That said, something is definitely amiss here with the large difference between the SL and SR. Hopefully you will find it this afternoon. :D With the same speakers, and distance that are nearly equal from the mic, the trims should be within 1-2 dB of each other.

I've also posted in the Audyssey thread to see if any suggestions there.

What is to the left of the sub? Any chance you could cut open the wall there and fire the ports across the room? You could at least pull the sub out and fire it across the screen just to see if that gives any better numbers/results.

Its the bottom of stairs so can't cut thru and cannot even change the bottom of screen unless I make screen smaller.

After I moved the subwoofer to the left and changed the phase the REW measurement were dramatically improved so after I've calibrated I'll give the sub a good going over.

Mark,
Maybe one of the reasons that you are getting such a large difference between the SR and SL is the unique design of the QS8's that you are using for surrounds. From your diagram, it appears that you have a short wall on the SL side that will reflect sound back into the listening area. On the SR side, there is no wall, and the sound travels back into the bar area. The SL side has a lot of hard surface area for reflections, so that might be giving it some gain.
I like the idea of dispersion speakers for surrounds, I use something similar in concept. They might be hard for Audyssey to balance, given the room shape, and that might be why you are getting unsatisfactory results when trying to use it.:confused:

An update after my testing yesterday.......I read the revised Audyssey Setup Guide here on AVS (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=14456895#post14456895). This has changed a lot since I last reviewed it and the guidance is much improved.

After following guidance, insuring seats were reclined, microphone was above the seat backs etc I measured in 6 positions (see below).

http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k242/BritInVA/HT/REW/Calpositions.jpg

These were results

FL----Large---10'7"--- +0.5db
FR----Large---11'0"--- +1.0db
CC-----Large---10'9"--- -3.5db
SL---Small---5'8"--- -0.5db ---90hz
SR---Small---6'3"--- -0.5db ---90hx
SW----------11'7"--- +2.5db ----120hz

I then set Room EQ to Flat as I have high frequency abortion (per setup guide VII, G, 1, b)

I then went thru REW measurement help determine correct crossovers, I've now set fronts to Small, crossovers to 80hz and increased the trim on the CC......now I know that Audyssey still works after changing settings - never realized that :o

Still working out the BFD, got to get some more 1/4" to RCA converters to buy before I can continue.

Thanks to Cathan and bakpakva for all support.

An update after my testing yesterday.......I read the revised Audyssey Setup Guide here on AVS (http://http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=14456895#post14456895). This has changed a lot since I last reviewed it an the guidance is much improved.

After following guidance, insuring seats were reclined, microphone was above the seat backs etc I measured in 6 positions (see below).


What is the purpose of the reclined seats? The link does not seem to be working.

What is the purpose of the reclined seats? The link does not seem to be working.

I corrected the link.

I assume you should set up the HT as to how it will be used, having seats inclined will have an impact on where the ears are (mic position) and reflections I would think.

I corrected the link.

I assume you should set up the HT as to how it will be used, having seats inclined will have an impact on where the ears are (mic position) and reflections I would think.

Sounds like it may help. I always thought the bass got somewhat louder when I reclined.

I corrected the link.

I assume you should set up the HT as to how it will be used, having seats inclined will have an impact on where the ears are (mic position) and reflections I would think.

That is why I recline the seats when doing measurements. Most people recline before the movie is through the previews :D.

What I would really like to do is run the MultEQ function with the seats full of people. That would be even more accurate, but much more difficult keeping them quiet and patient. It seems to take a very long time for me to go through 8 positions with a 7.1 setup.

My daughter had 14 friends over for a movie last night so I removed the HT chairs. When reinstalled them used oppertunity to move the bass shakers. I originally had them mounted to a peice of 3/4" MDF which was attached to the base of the chair.....I had been thinking that the carpet was absorbing the shake and I was right.

This is the new mounting position. Still on 3/4" MDF but this time I cable tied them to the springs of the seat base.

http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k242/BritInVA/HT/IMG_4728.jpg

The shake is MUCH more enhanced ....... so much so that I now have shaker amp vol at 50% rather than the 80%+ it was on and still get more enhanced shake.

Thread Snooze alert...........................

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b393/bigmouthindc/kindofslow.jpg

Only watching movies - and some of those that could have been me.

Currently no immediate plans to make changes, would like to change PJ, Screen but got to much else to spend money on.

Current project is a refresh on the shared main Bath. Just stripped the builder grade vanity, re-stained, poly and handles. Installed new quieter vent and crown....... next is to paint, install tile floor with underheat and dress up the builder mirror.

Then will fix some burst tape joints in the Master Bed and onto a refresh of the Master Bath (full remodel on hold pending changes in the economic situation).

With so little theater stuff going on, I know you'll be dying to come over in a month or so to help me start the REW stuff. :)

With so little theater stuff going on, I know you'll be dying to come over in a month or so to help me start the REW stuff. :)

Yeah - I need to finish my write up I prmised the lcal NoVAs :o

Thread Snooze alert...........................

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b393/bigmouthindc/kindofslow.jpg


Nice, very nice.

Spotted the guy on what must have been an eat and sleep vacation.

Spotted the guy on what must have been an eat and sleep vacation.

You sure was not on Tom's deck :D

HEY! I heard that.

Spotted the guy on what must have been an eat and sleep vacation.

You took that picture? I thought you had pulled it off the web somewhere. It's awesome!

CJ

Hi

Where did you or do you order that LOUVERED SPEAKER VENT from? I want to order one for my ticket booth window. Please get back to me. Thanks

Dan

It's a 4" SS ROUND LOUVERED VENT...... I got mine from BoatersWorld.com.

Could not find it there but here it is on another site (http://www.greenboatstuff.com/seadogststlo1.html)

My daughter made the front page of the Washington Post metro section (http://www.washingtonpost.com/wp-dyn/content/photo/2009/12/05/PH2009120503024.html)

Cool pic Mark.

Love it!

Excellent!

I saw that pic! Didn't make the connection! Nice.

What a charming picture!

CJ

That's cool Mark...

-sc

Thanks for comments guy's - photographer really caught a great moment (was not staged). Trying to get myself a digital copy. Photographers wifes boards/rides at same stables so I'm hopeful.

Thanks for comments guy's - photographer really caught a great moment (was not staged). Trying to get myself a digital copy. Photographers wifes boards/rides at same stables so I'm hopeful.

Many times the copyright is owned by the newspaper rather than the photographer, so you may have to settle for a print. But you won't know without asking!

CJ

Ended up getting the Cierra Swivel Bar Stools from target.

They seem comforatable but won't know for a while.

http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k242/BritInVA/HT/HPIM1723.jpg

http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k242/BritInVA/HT/HPIM1724.jpg

They look butt-worthy

Yeah - plenty of comfort underneath but I think they are a little too upright

After Jason customized his remote thought I'd have a play too.

http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k242/BritInVA/HT/Britinva-MX980.jpg

Nice, Do you have FIOS Internet? I am curious what you get as download speed using the Speakeasy download speed test.

Nice, Do you have FIOS Internet? I am curious what you get as download speed using the Speakeasy download speed test.

Yep - Got FiOS. I have the 25Mbps/15Mbps plan and getting 26/14 to WDC, 26/12 to NYC and 14/5 to LA using Speakeasy

With the Verizon site i get 26/16

COX cable basic connection:

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b393/bigmouthindc/DSCF1780.jpg


Looks like the benefit of FIOS is the upload bandwidth.

Looks like the benefit of FIOS is the upload bandwidth.

Yeah - for work upload is as important as download.

Mark, if you don't mind, what are you paying for that, and is that with a static IP? Consumer or business?

I needed a static adress block, so had to go with their business plan... currently at 15/15, and the proces for higher bandwidth in the business plans started getting up there...

-sc

Mark, if you don't mind, what are you paying for that, and is that with a static IP? Consumer or business?

I needed a static adress block, so had to go with their business plan... currently at 15/15, and the proces for higher bandwidth in the business plans started getting up there...

-sc

Its part of a residential triple play so no exact figure - its circa $40-45.

Its a dynamic address but as far as I know its not changed since I've had service but no gaurentees that it will never change.

Well my Samsung BD-P1500 started to really play up..... lots of freezing and stuttering :(

When I bought it a Walmart I decided to spend on a warrenty as knew the technology was still flaky...... so thought I'd try it out. The good news is the service center was able to duplicate my freezing/stuttering issue ..... bad news is they are unable to repair (or poss could be good news).

So now waiting to see if I'll get reimbursed or a replacement...... just hoping I don't get a refurbished unit. If I get reimbursed and don't have to spend in Walmart I think I'll get the Oppo BDP80.

But man I miss having a Blu-ray player in the Theatre - not so much for picture quality as my Oppo 971 does a good job upscalling DVD (and I'm still only 720p).... but I really notice the audio quality.

Just heard from the warrenty folks - they are refunding me the full price I paid for the Samsung BD-P1500 which was $388+tax. I got a $100 gift card with it and they are not even deducting that :)

So I see a Oppo BDP-83 in my future

[Does Happy Dance]

Were you using the Netflix downloading feature on the Samsung? That is not a feature yet of Oppo.

Nah - 1500 didn't have that..... not really important for Movie room and if I want it should be able to get it on Wii soon

My wife got me a Samsung 1590 for Christmas for $100 I think. It has Pandora, Blockbuster, and Netflix streaming built in. Great player!

I use the Netflix streaming all the time. I just wish they would increase the selection to include new releases.

CJ

I currently have Netflix streaming from PC to our family room TV. Works great and any player I buy for bedrooms in the future then streaming will be a must but I don't see it as a deal breaker for the HT (will use the Wii if needed).

I just want the best DVD upconversion and a less glitchy Blu-ray playback. From what I've read the Oppo BDP-83 should be great for both.

After Jason customized his remote thought I'd have a play too.

http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k242/BritInVA/HT/Britinva-MX980.jpg

do you have the files for your remote or did someone do this for you? I have the 980 as well and need finish configuring it. I like some of the graphics for the components and such. Any chance you can share...?

do you have the files for your remote or did someone do this for you? I have the 980 as well and need finish configuring it. I like some of the graphics for the components and such. Any chance you can share...?

Yeah, I have all the files - are there specific images you want or do you want me to email you the .rcf file? If email just PM your email.

I posted this over in the Blu-ray forum but thought would post in my thread too as there are many wise folks here.

I've had a Samsung BD-P1500 for last couple of years and was recently lucky to get a full refund under a warrenty ($388).

My current PJ (Panasonic AE900U) is only 720P and AVR (Denon AVR2807) does not decode the lossless audio..... I don't see changing those for at least 2 years (unless they fail).

For a replacement Blu-ray player I've been looking at the OPPO BDP-83 but starting to think this is just overkill for my needs. The SACD audio is not a requirement.

For my needs I need a player that reliably plays Blu-rays (the Samsung had tendancy to freeze/stutter), decode the lossless audio, pass over HDMI, good upscaling of DVD (but I also have Oppo OPD971H which does a pretty good job).

All of the above can be done by players at a lot less that $500.

Netflix streaming might be nice, but not a deal breaker and being DLNA/3D ready would be good too.

So I'm starting to lean towards the Sony S470 which can do all of what I need now (plus will have DLNA & 3D added in Summer).

I'll be looking to buy 2 more players in June for kids room (If they keep grades up) so thinking I could always give them the Sony S470 and get something else for the Theatre then if I feel need.

Appreciate any thoughts or recommendations of other players I should consider?