Welcome to the Wright Family Theatre

This is an edited post to provide an index to the thread to help find various aspects of the build quickly.

First a few current pictures of the HT

Screen Wall and view of seats and looking toward the rear Bar

http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k242/BritInVA/HT/HT-Screen-Sml.jpg http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k242/BritInVA/HT/140-4081_IMG.jpg

The Bar and Ticket Booth faux Door to Equipment Closet

http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k242/BritInVA/HT/140-4082_IMG.jpg http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k242/BritInVA/HT/Bar-4.jpg http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k242/BritInVA/HT/140-4084_IMG.jpg

Equipment List
- Screen: DIY / Dazian
- PJ: Panasonic AE900U
- AVR: Denon AVR2807
- Front Speakers: Ascend 340 SE
- Surround Speakers: Axiom QS8
- Subwoofer: HSU STF-2
- DVD: Oppo OPD971H
- HD-DVD: Toshiba HD-A3
- Blu-ray: Samsung BD-P1500
- Verizon FiOS HD-DVR
- Power Conditioner: APC J10BLK
- Bass Shakers: Aura
- Bass Shaker Amp: Sherwood RX-4105
- Remote: URC MX-980
- Lighting: All Insteon controlled (KeypadLinc, Switchlink, ToggleLinc & IRLinc)

Thread Contents
1) Demolition Starts (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=7415968#post7415968)
2) Framing Underway (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=7458878#post7458878)
3) Conduit & Wiring (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=7620271#post7620271)
4) 1st Layer Drywall going up (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=7749069#post7749069)
5) Drywall Tapping/Mudding Hell over (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=7896885#post7896885)
6) Stage Construction (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=7910969#post7910969)
7) Some initial Sketchup renders (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=7927387#post7927387)
8) Proscenium Framing (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=7972682#post7972682)
9) Screen Wall Acoustic Treatments (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=7986162#post7986162)
10) Painted Ceiling (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=8294221#post8294221)
11) Start of Side Panel Frames (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=8400627#post8400627)
12) Start of Wainscoat Panelling (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=8711683#post8711683)
13) Bar doubling as a Resonant Absorber (Plan) (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=8737536#post8737536)
14) More Work on Wainscoating and Bar Absorber (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=8758726#post8758726)
15) Panelling Stained (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=8812700#post8812700)
16) Carpet Installed (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=8829346#post8829346)
17) Side Acoustic Panels (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=8841092#post8841092) and how I made them (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=8873228#post8873228)
18) Theatre Seat Planning (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=8888353#post8888353)
19) Proscenium Fabric (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=8949780#post8949780)
20) Crown Moulding & Rope Light (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=8968772#post8968772)
21) DIY Rack (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=8982652#post8982652)
22) Star Ceiling (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=9017850#post9017850)
23) Connecting PJ/Sub to Power Conditioner (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=9027426#post9027426)
24) Seats Unpacked and assembled (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=9140480#post9140480)
25) Bar Wood Laminate Floor (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=9306575#post9306575)
26) More Bar Progress (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=9561174#post9561174)
27) Movie Posters (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=9687982#post9687982)
28) Bar Canopy (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=9873517#post9873517) and here too (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=9879652#post9879652)
29) Bar Foot Rail (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=9924754#post9924754)
30) Ticket Booth / Faux Equipment Room Door (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=10080681#post10080681)
31) Exit sign (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=10334324#post10334324)
32) Small Marquee (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=10838284#post10838284)
33) URC MX-980 Remote (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=13139609#post13139609)
34) Screen with Velvet Border (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=13340597#post13340597)
35) Concession Stand (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=13404030#post13404030)
36) Bar Shelves (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=13419415#post13419415)
37) Final Finished Pictures (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=13426379#post13426379)


Thought I’d start sharing my plans and welcome any constructive feedback.

I have a unfinished space in my basement that at its extremes measures 25’ 9” x 15’. The space is roughed in for a Bath. Here are pictures and current floor plan.

http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k242/BritInVA/HT/basement-12Mar06-1.jpg
http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k242/BritInVA/HT/basement-12Mar06-2.jpg
http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k242/BritInVA/HT/Unfinished.jpg

The space will be used for watching movies, playing cards and general socializing – plus I have 11 and 8 yr old girls who love performing so a stage is essential. This is my current thinking on layout.

http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k242/BritInVA/HT/HTLayout1.jpg

I plan on doing all construction myself (including electrics and plumbing), I need to complete a few more Honey Do’s and get my county permits before starting – I anticipate starting the stud work in April.

I intend to use R30 Insulation / 1/2" Drywall / Green Glue / 5/8” Drywall on the ceiling. For the walls as 3 are 9” concrete (underground) and the other adjoins a general recreation room - so I’m going to start with R13 Insulation with 5/8” Drywall and then see how noise traverses – the rooms directly above are a dining room and lounge that are seldom used. If required I’ll add another layer of drywall and possibly Green Glue.

For the electrics I’m considering 5 new circuits (I have 200A supply with about 10 spare slots). Here is the current plan:

http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k242/BritInVA/HT/Electrical1.jpg

As for overall looks I’m leaning towards a style similar to Chris Armbruster but I’m sure the limited width I have at the screen end will mean some compromises.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=535413

Now for the Equipment – I’m sure it will be many, many months before I will need to finalize my equipment but this is my current shopping list:

- Projector: Infocus IN76, BenQ 7700 or Optoma HD72
- Receiver: Denon AVR-3806
- DVD: Oppo 971H (waiting a little longer for the DVD war to conclude)
- Speakers: Mordaunt-Short Advant 900i Series or Axiom Grand Master 175

I’m sure the above list will change as new product come onto the market, I gain more knowledge and get to demo.

I would like to implement a 7.1 system but as there will not be a wall at the rear of the main viewing area I think I may need to use recessed speakers (which I didn’t want to do as it will break the sound envelope)……alternative is to ceiling mount but I think my speaker choice (MS Advant 902i) may be a little large for that – any advice here will be appreciated.

If your HT ends up half as nice as carmbruster's you'll have done good! Your girls will love that stage.

Your basement space looks very similar to my entrance/bathroom/stairs/electrical panel layout. I'm just past Leesburg if you want to check out my HT for any tips or lessons learned. I highly recommend looking into Linacoustic sound treatment on the walls. I can give you a local source for it... best $140 I spent.

another neighbor chiming in...

i think that the space that you've got is going to be tight for everything you want to do there. the card table looks to be a choke point for getting anywhere on that side of your basement. you also need to consider where the PJ is going to live. i also think that your bath is going to be very tight. the shower enclosure's door is either going to open into the WC or swing right across its bow. either way, i would reconsider whether you need that full bath.

i've been too ambitious with my plans and have scaled back several times. a cramped space just isn't very comfortable.

when you pull the permits, be prepared to spend a couple of hours at the county bldg. builders are elbow to elbow in there, however the folks behind the counter are reasonable and took pity on me with there paperwork. you'll need to have a count for all of the plumbing fixture, electrical outlets, circuits and fixtures and you'll also have to draw a sketch of the space on their paperwork. it cost me $250 to pull my permits.

anyway... best of luck to you and please keep the thread updated.

aaron

and yet another neighbor.....

I'm also located here in Ashburn and about halfway through my HT project (and basement remodel) if you need any advice, ideas or motivation.

Regards and good luck,

Billmac

when you pull the permits, be prepared to spend a couple of hours at the county bldg. builders are elbow to elbow in there, however the folks behind the counter are reasonable and took pity on me with there paperwork. you'll need to have a count for all of the plumbing fixture, electrical outlets, circuits and fixtures and you'll also have to draw a sketch of the space on their paperwork. it cost me $250 to pull my permits.Aaron, did you get your permit in Leesburg? It took me 10 minutes... of course I already had a printout of the visio floor plan from the link in my signature:
http://img109.exs.cx/img109/6301/ht56elec5fn.gif (http://crtforum.com/viewtopic.php?p=112#112)

They just stapled it to the form and looked at me like it was overkill.

IIRC, I paid $130 for my permits but my plumbing was already done by the builder.

And yes, the floorplan and seating arrangement is always much smaller in real life than it looks on paper.

Aaron - from my screen name you are probably aware I'm from the UK. So as you might expect I get my fairshare of visitors. The adjoining Rec area doubles as a overflow bedroom (has a sleeper sofa) so the Bath is a must. The shower model I'm looking at using enters from the corner.

http://www.sterlingplumbing.com/onlinecatalog/detail.jsp?item=4204303&prod_num=SP2271A-38

I've taped out area on floor and it seems to work.

I agree about the card table being a choke point - the actual table will be much smaller. My card table is a foldup / stoway kind so can be pulled out as needed.

Looks like we have quite a club here in Northern VA......I have another friend who is just scoping his HT in a pre-finished area. Be good if we can get together to discuss. PM your email address if your interested.....especially interested about the permits. I have the forms and already prepared the simplified plan - the more detailed versions are for my benifit.

Looks like we have quite a club here in Northern VA......I have another friend who is just scoping his HT in a pre-finished area. Be good if we can get together to discuss.Check out the "DC Area Home Theaters" thread, too...
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=225092&goto=lastpost

Clarence,

Where did you purchase Linacoustic locally?

Right now I'm about 1 week away from the sheetrock phase of my project. After that it will be right on to acoustic treatments and I haven't found a local source for Linacoustic yet.

Regards,

billmac

Where did you purchase Linacoustic locally?
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=5566441&&#post5566441
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=5164172&&#post5164172
http://archive.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?postid=4207096#post4207096

If any of you locals that have been thru the permit process are willing to meet I'd really appreciate it. Also to discuss where you are in your project and lessons learned.

Cheers, Mark

Aaron, did you get your permit in Leesburg? It took me 10 minutes... of course I already had a printout of the visio floor plan from the link in my signature:

They just stapled it to the form and looked at me like it was overkill.

IIRC, I paid $130 for my permits but my plumbing was already done by the builder.

And yes, the floorplan and seating arrangement is always much smaller in real life than it looks on paper.

Clarence-

Funny thing is that I went in with detailed plans too. I was told that they not what was required, so I had to draw a pethetic representation of the plan on their bldg permit form. I wish that it had taken only 10 mins... there was literally reps from 8 or 10 builders in there pulling permits. I hadn't filled out the electrical and plumbing apps, as they are not oniline, so those took a bit for me to over estimate the counts. I was issued a stern warning about under-estimating fixtures, outlets and circuits as I would be forced to revise the app if I shorted the count.

The folks there were pleasant, but it wasn't a user-friendly experience. I've pulled permits in other jurisdictions before, but never in a spot where construction/growth has overwhelmed the government as is the case in Loudoun.

Another tip... don't even touch your cellphone. Their use is expressly forbidden and the employees there aren't shy about screaching about it.

My $250 tab was probably more than the norm, as I'll be installing a sub-panel which had it's own fee schedule (maybe $75?).

Best of luck to everyone.

Aaron

If any of you locals that have been thru the permit process are willing to meet I'd really appreciate it. Also to discuss where you are in your project and lessons learned.

Cheers, Mark


What did you have in mind?

I'm carpet shy of a finished theater but I'm on a several month path to complete the back end of my space with entertaining kitchen/bar. Need to have that further along so that the flooring for the space can go in.

I did the Fairfax county inspection route and found it relatively easy. I went in with a hand drawn set of plans that didn't have the electrical circuits shown and it wasn't a problem.

Here is where I am today:

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b393/bigmouthindc/DSCN3336.jpg
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b393/bigmouthindc/DSCN3329.jpg
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b393/bigmouthindc/DSCN3259.jpg
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b393/bigmouthindc/DSCN3293.jpg

same here, we got our building permit in the leesburg city (loudoun county) office building about 2 months ago. We had detailed VISIO diagrams but were told to hand draw in the plan onto a permit form. so much for being prepared.

Also we only paid something like $70. I got the impression the fee was based on estimated total cost of renovation. My wife actually stood in line with our general contractor, took about 30 minutes.

billmac

Sorry I got into this thread late....

Is Ashburn in Fairfax or Loudoun? I went to Loudoun on a Friday afternoon in January to pull permits and it took less than 30 minutes. And most of that was filling out the forms. I had pre-filled the on-line form but they don't use that. I also had a drawing from Punch! (with floorplan scanned from the original builder's sales brouchure) and they didn't want THAT either. Just sketch out the floorplan and label spaces. They didn't even need a drawing of where the bathroom will go.

The counter people were really nice and helpful. I''ve had Loudoun inmspectors out for other things that I've had done around the house they've been pretty nice too. I'm getting close to my first inspection. If anyone is interested, I'll post a new thread about it when it happens.

Good luck Brit...there's a TON of great help around the area. Just ask!

Tom

Ashburn is in Loudoun County, just east of Leesburg.

Here is where I am today:
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b393/bigmouthindc/DSCN3293.jpgLookin' good , bigmouth!

When does your carpet get installed?

Things are going so slow. We spent a month looking at cabinets.

It took me 10 days to get an appointment with a person who could spec out the cabinets we want. (Luxor out of Canada)

After that meeting she said (Tart Lumber) that it would take her 2 weeks to pull the quote together. (that would be this Friday)


Then the cabinets will take 10-12 weeks. OY!!!!

We want painted european style cabinets and the only vendor we found that had a stock color we liked was Luxor.

I even e-mailed them asking if there was another local vendor and no response.


So I'm working on the stairway, and drywall prep (need to change the location of some lights) and I'm going to tackle a Poster Box (see the thread over in Accessories)

We also have a design concept for the back bar which will go in front of the back wall area. It will have a radius front edge to reflect the marque and will be upholstered in dark blue vinyl to match my chairs. I'm going to try to do a button tufted padded front to the bar. Found the vinyl at JoAnns.

And we haven't even started working on the bathroom!!!!

I think I've got all the forms ready - will try to get down to the country office later in the week. I'm going to complete the main sections and then get counter staff to guide me with the rest.

Billmac - I think we may have a daughter in same 5th Grade class. Ask her if she has a Brit in her class - small world!

BIGmouthinDC - your set up is looking really cool. I like the style - but alas I think I need to add same swags to cater for my predomently girlie house.

Anyone interested in meeting for a beer on Saturday at Kirkpatricks in Ashburn?

Also are any of the Northern VA folks going to the DC group meeting on 1st April at www.thetasightandsound.com?

Beer is good!

For those that can make it lets meet at Kirkpatricks at 2pm on Saturday. That way it won't be so noisy that we can't hear each other.

Looking forward to it.

Mark

Mark,

It is a small world! My daughter confirms she's in your daughter class.

Unfortunately I'll have to take a rain check on the beer saturday. I just realized I've one of my daughters has a soccer tournament saturday and sunday and we'll be over in a neighboring town most of the day.

Keep me on the list for the next one. Old Dominion brewery is also nice place to hang and actually a little quieter than kirkpatricks.

Regards,

bill

Bill - No problem. Another time. Hopefully others can still make it.

Just got back from the county building office, got my building permits, took just 25 minutes from walking in the dor to walking out - I must say your local government is far more efficient than those in the UK!. Total cost was $275

So just got a few more Honey Do's and then construction can start!

Question: The area is currently insulated with a silver foil cover - assuming this is a reflective barrier.

http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k242/BritInVA/HT/basement-12Mar06-1.jpg

I should be able to make use of the insulation (interior walls and ceiling) but not sure if I should reuse the silver foil on these exterior walls between the new stud walls and drywall.

Any advice?

Take a close look at the foil. Mine was perforated and not considered a vapor barrier.

If you want, you can build a wall and just stand it up in front of the existing insulated walls, Then put in between stud insulation with an attached vapor barrier and you are good to go. No need to mess around with the existing stuff. Just be sure you are not creating two vapor barriers.

I took mine down because I wanted to apply Dryloc to the walls. I stacked it up in a pile and ended up using all of it for various areas in my basement. Be aware that I found that the wall insulation to be a perfect habitat for some pretty serious spiders that didn't really care to be disturbed. Gloves with a long sleaved shirt tucked into the gloves was my uniform for this task.

Yes, it is perforated.

I don't want to leave existing in place as those extra few inches are needed (as it is I'm going to end up with just 11' width). Wondering it its worth putting a vapor barrier, then this thermal reflector and then drywall.

You peaked my curiosity so I did a little reading on foil radiant barrier benefits.

http://www.gp.com/build/product.aspx?pname=Plytanium%E2%84%A2+Thermostat%E2%84%A2+Ra diant+Barrier+Sheathing&pid=1398&hierarchy

It seems for radiant barriers to be effective you need 3/4 inches of air space which wouldn't apply in your proposed vaporbarrier/foil/drywall construction.

BIGmouthDC - Did a little further research and found this site that shows installation on the wall facing side of the studs ( http://www.insulation4less.com/highr_uses.asp ).

So possible installation would be:

Wall : 3/4" Gap : Foil : insulated Studs : vapor barrier : drywall

If possible (and if a benefit) I would like to reuse the foil - be a shame to dump!

Think I'll call the inspector and ask.

Anyone else reused their radiant foil barrier?

Brit -

I did not re-use mine, just took it down. As soon as I cut the foil, it just came off the insulation, like there was nothing holding it together except for the nail/washers power driven into the concrete. Most of the insulation was in pretty bad shape. I just got rid of it. Left the nails in the wall. Occasionaly have used them as spacers to keep the gap behind stud wall.

Still on for tomorrow (Saturday)? How about you BIG?

Tom

Ashburnite here as well!

I just started a sperate thread w/ contruction pics yesterday.

I've had similar experiences with the Loudoun county offices: wanted a sketch on their form, quick, and generally helpful. I've called the office a few time with specific questions and they've been gernerally helpful as well.

The real test will come at inspection time... perhaps next week for me.

we had our final inspection yesterday (Loudoun County) and all passed: electrical; mechanical & framing. he looked at some of the Ht modifications, miles of wiring and wacky conduit and scratched his head but for the most part he was pretty easy going.

They did question my installation of a thermostatically controlled whisper vent/exhaust fan over my HT equipment rack. since the rack resides in the utility (furnace) room he was concerned about a direct vent to the outside. it was discussed for a while and decided it was OK. I'm not sure why it was an issue since many of the new homes here have fresh air vent into the furnance room. The homes are becoming so "tight" you need more fresh air for combustion.

good luck guys.

billmac

Billmac:

You say the rack resides in the utility room. His concern was probably that the exhaust fan could (if strong enough and the utility room has poor ventalation) suck the CO out of the water heater and the furnace vent stacks and create a kill zone.

If you ever go in the utility room and feel sleepy don't lay down.

Tom: I'm 50/50 for Saturday at this point. and You?

Jeff

Brit: Food for thought: Most people complain about their theaters getting too hot. not sure why you are trying so hard to keep it in.

Probably another wasted Saturday running errands instead of building, so I'm more like 99/1. Should have the wife in tow, if that gets you out of the house any easier!

Tom

Big - Good point, and as Tom mentioned the stuff is likely to rip when I start pulling it down. So probably not worth the effort.

Hope to see ya Saturday.

Billmac:

You say the rack resides in the utility room. His concern was probably that the exhaust fan could (if strong enough and the utility room has poor ventalation) suck the CO out of the water heater and the furnace vent stacks and create a kill zone.

If you ever go in the utility room and feel sleepy don't lay down.

Tom: I'm 50/50 for Saturday at this point. and You?

Jeff


Jeff,

I think you're right. I was talking with my HVAC guy before the inspection and he was suggesting we add enough fresh air vents to the utility room to alleviate that potential problem.

billmac

Hi,

Rovkville MD here. Not exactly a 9 iron away but definitely driving distance even with the notorious DC traffic.

I am planning to convert part of my unfinished basement to a HT and need a lot of help. The room will be 14 by 19. There are 2 weight bearing posts in the area but shouldn't be a show stopper. One is 1 foot from one of the long wall and 12 feet from the screen. The other one is 3 feet from the back wall (16 from the screen) and 6 feet from the same long wall. The ceiling is 8 3/4' concrete to joists. The room basically will have a stage, 2 3-seaters, a riser. Will have a seperate room/closet for the equipments. Here are the questions:

1- Speaker placement for 7.1 and 5.1
2- Soundproof insulation options, wall & ceiling
3- Wall finish options
4- screen size, ratio
5- seat placement
6- projector postion
7- concrete treatment (seal, dricore, ...etc)

I will stop at 7 for now but anything above and beyond are more than welcome. I don't mind spending extra 2,3 K (on top of, say, 5k, just the room, not the equipments) to make the room look better/sound/perform better but that's about all I can commit now.

I am a true HT novice and an okay DIYer. I would like to start framing the room in the next week or two and take all suggestions into consideration.

Thanks a lot.


Eric

Lookin real good!

A little off topic:

Does anyone have roughly 30 feet (4'x30') of Linacoustic?

Thanks and sorry for the interruption.

Ok - Demolition has Started.

Removed all existing drywall and insulation from the walls.

http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k242/BritInVA/HT/demo1.jpg
http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k242/BritInVA/HT/demo2.jpg

And busted the floor up where I need to reroute the shower drain.

http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k242/BritInVA/HT/demo3.jpg

That's going be it for this weekend - gotta go into DC with family to see the Cherry Blossom.

Studwork starts next weekend :D

After reading pinkfreud55 thread on Air Circulation I've been looking at my HVAC situation tonight. As with most badly planned HVAC systems it seems my return goes from the furnace in the basement through the centre of the house with one return vent on Basement level, first floor and second floor. Which my be OK when rooms are not sealed and most doors left open.

A major rework or split of HVAC is not an option!

For obvious reasons, HT room is purposely a sealed environment. I have worked out a possible route, I can take an 8" flexible duct from the furnace through an existing soffit into the HT room.

Some pictures.

http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k242/BritInVA/HT/HVAC1.jpg

http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k242/BritInVA/HT/HVAC2.jpg

http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k242/BritInVA/HT/HVAC3.jpg

Does anyone know if there are codes that restrict where I tie into the HVAC return and how I route the duct?

Thanks in advance.

Brit -

I don't know what the codes are, but from some of the pictures I've seen, they can't be too hard how the lines are run.

Looking good so far! Tear down that fast must have been a back breaker!

Tom

Brit:

Codes:

If you go to HD and look at their "code check" series of spiral bound plastic coated books they have one for mechanical and it would give you some ideas about universal codes. Just read don't bother buying.

I do know there is a limitation on how close a return air supply vent can be to the furnace and I think it's 10 ft. If it's in another room it doesn't matter.

From your pictures it doesn't look like the air supply will be much of an issue. I would tie into the top of the duct inside that soffit and bring the flex duct between the joists to the outside perimeter of the room.

From my discussion with a HVAC guy, for basements in this area it's preferred to leave the supplies up high and the returns as close to the floor as possible. If you can put them at opposite ends/sides of the room that is recommended.

There are some ways to mitigate the sound coming/going via the duct work by choice of duct work. The flex sold at HD is not the best for sound control it has a plastic inner sleave. They make a version that has an inner sleave that is acoustically transparent and allows the sound to be absorbed by the insulation. I didn't use but it's available. I've seen it on some web page.

Also you are going to want to have some 90 degree bends.

You can also get in-line duct mufflers

You can also build a DIY serpentine box to contain sound

BIG - Thanks for Tip on the book.....I'll go and thumb thru one.

The duct in the existing soffit is a feed so cannot tie into that - but there looks like room to run a flexi duct. Looks like my only connection point is at furnace - will be at least a 30' run.

As for placement I'm looking at connecting into the existing 'feeder' ducts within the room that already feed to upper rooms. There will be 2 registers between the screen and the seating area and another over by the bar (all in soffits with bends). For the return I think I can bring that down to floor level within the side wall of the new Bath.

Brit

Just a head up.

Air volume in a HVAC is a lot different than Electricity more like water. You have to keep things in balance.

Fluid mechanics determines the volume of flow.

Think of the main supply trunk as an area of uniform constant pressure. the size of the holes (and to a lesser extent the resistance along the duct) determines the volume of air that will enter the duct. If you split an existing branch to feed an existing and a new vent you will cut the volume in half at each outlet.

It's better to tie your new room back to main trunk. Lets say the main trunk services 10 ducts. Adding 2 new will cut the volume at any one existing duct by 20% (swag). A lot better than 50%.

I was able to reach up betweent joists and tap onto the top of my main supply trunk (in your existing soffit)

BIG - Yeah, read that in my basement finishing book.

My problem is that accessibility to the main supply trunk is difficult. I have a stairs that block access to most of it. I may be able to at least tap into it once.

The thing on my side is that I currently have 2 x 8" ducts that feed one room each - and these rooms are a formal dinning room and a formal sitting room. Both of which don't get used much so I'm keeping fingers crossed that if thats my only option things will work out OK.

Thanks for your input - appreciated.

If you can tap in at least one joist bay you could put more than one tap in that location and then move laterally inside a soffit in the theater. That is if you are building a soffit otherwise never mind. You could put an oversize tap and branch it in the theater as well.

BIG - Looks like I have a place I can access to tap into the feeder trunk......so my amended plan is to take 1 new 8" duct into the room and supply to registers behind the seating area.

For the return I have 2 options.
1) tap into the main return within the furnace room and then snake an 8" duct though the ceiling, or
2) just outside the HT room the central return duct resides behind the wall. As this wall and the walls in the HT room are not 'structural. do you (or anyone else) know if I can route the return duct within the wall horizontally about 6ft? If this is possible I can then route the return under the stage and put a return register along the front.

I don't see why not. It goes horizontally at ceiling level for the rest of the house from you picture. It's horizontal in my house.

Some thing to be aware of. If you are like me I like my Subs. If you are concerned about the LFE noise going to the rest of the house I'd do a couple of things.

Keep the return vents away from the subs. Maybe somebody can model your room and tell you where along the front wall would be best.

Think about strategies that can tame the sound entering the return air system in the HT. Mufflers, Serpentine boxes, choice of duct material etc.


Just another thing to bounce off you. You are talking about supply in the rear and returns in the front. I've read that people are most comfortable the other way around. (cold draft on the back of the neck thing). Have you thought about orienting your theater the other way?

BIG - Yes, thinking now best not to have the vents near the Subs.....so new plan :D

- New 8" duct from the main trunk supplying 2 registers between seating area and screen.

- New 8" return, linking into main return in furnace room, thru the soffit in the Rec Room and into the HT Room. I'll then take the return down to floor level within the wall (I can also incorpate a retun in the HT closet.

Thanks for all your help.

I didn't intend for you to jump that fast. You may want to post a new thread with the title.

"where to put return vents in stage to minimize sound leakage?"

That should bring out all the acoustical gurus.

BIG - My brain hurts as it is - I've only just recovered from the Sound Proofing thread ;)

I'm hoping to start Framing this weekend. My HT will need soffits to hide HVAC duct.

I want to incorporate a rope light for mood lighting plus a starfield ceiling. Torn between a design like CharlesB which I believe uses painted Drywall and a Crown molding, or like Chinadog that uses a bevelled soffit covered in GOM.

Both look Great!

Drywall + Crown looks quite straight forward, but I like the idea of the bevelled soffit.

Downside with the bevelled is if I paint it I will need a good finish on drywall and with all the corners/joins thats going to be a chore. But if I use GOM it does not need to be perfect.

This is a diagram of construction I'm thinking of:

http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k242/BritInVA/HT/soffet-1.jpg

Appreciate any critique on this design.

Are you using wood paneling on all wall surfaces except the soffit?

On the soffit, how do you plan to attach the GoM to the drywall? Typically GoM is applied over firring frames, ideally over Linacoustic.

Clarence - My plan is within the main HT area to use wood panelling with fabric/accoustic centers (like CharlesB (http://gallery.avsforum.com/data/507/T6.jpg)).....and possibly all wood paneling in the rear bar area.

My primary goals are Sound Proofing and Asthetics before Accoustics. I'll do what I can within my appox $12k Budget (approx $6k build and $6k Equip).

If I use GOM (or some other fabric) I realize I'll need to use firring frames - but have not done enough investigation on what accoustic material to use. Linacoustic is an option - but not sure on price, where to get and whether it fits my budget.

Just saw 'BIGS' post with the JM (http://www.jm.com/locator/mqlocator.exe?link=find) link. What is the name of the Accoustic product. Could not find Linacoustic listed

BIG - Thanks, 1 roll may be enough to to my panels and soffits. I'll have to do some calculations!

A couple of comments. Clarence is correct, you need to figure out how to staple the GOM to something in the corner. You can always cover it with crown, but you can't staple it to the drywall. My design was to include Linacoustic under the soffits, so I needed the furring there anyway. Turns out after talked to bpape, that I didn't need the Linacoustic, so my GOM covers 1" of empty space, although you'd never know it.

Also, you need an area to staple the GOM to on the other end (where the rope light is). I used 1x6s inside my trey to staple onto, but even so, it was sort of difficult to get the staple gun up there. You have a tight spot there for getting the staple gun in. It looks like the slanted side is pretty large. Mine is only about 6 inches. You might be able to go a little smaller and give yourself a little more room to play with. Also, that gives you more of an uplight on the corners of the ceiling. By having the rope light so close to the ceiling in a tight spot, you'll have less effect, but that may be the look you want.

Are you planning on building panels (ala Sandman) for the starfield or do you have access from above?

Bud

Chinadog - Thanks.

I guess if I do go the GOM route on soffits I can use liquid nails to glue some thin firring strips to all edges and the pop in a few 2" finishing nails for additional strength. Was thinking too that the area for rope light was tight so the slanted edge can be shorter to give me some additional rooms (can't really drop the soffit as only have 7' 9" to the I-beam).

For Starfield ceiling I'm looking at making panels (no access above). I have Sandman's directions - only thing not clear on is how to fix to the ceiling. I'll drop Sandman a note.

I'm going to be using the Linacoustic in the panels, and if I go with GOM on soffits was going to use there also - what was the reason bpape gave for not doing the soffits?

[Side note] Weird how BIG's post from last night is showing as posted this morning. Think AVS had some issues with their servers last night. Now its gone

BIG - can you repost where you got the Linaccoustic from in Manassas - aftrer the AVS database work it disappeared.

Mark,

I believe Sandman used brads to hold the panels in place on furring strips that were mounted on the ceiling.

Bryan did a calculated analysis based on the information I provided him on the construction techniques, material used, insulation, distances, measurements, etc. He recommended a small amount of linacoustic under the soffit in strategic areas, versus what I planned. It varies by room, obviously. You don't want it too dead, I suppose.

Comment on side note, I think the server time was ahead by 12 hours (AM versus PM or something weird), I noticed that as well.

Bud

Yea, this morning I thought I was caught in the cyber space twilight zone.


The place in manasses is McCormicks insulation. They are a JM insulation products supply serving the building trade but will service the public on a cash and carry basis. (they will deliver for a fee) .

It's a small operation, one guy/two guys and a warehouse but part of a larger regional company. I've always called and asked if the stuff was in stock before I went.

The guy there knows it as the 1 inch duct liner. If you say Linacoustic RC he'll think you are talking latin.

Getting there is a challenge. Even with a Mapquest Map it took me 20 minutes to find it when I was 5 block away. It's in a industrial park, 3-4 rows of buildings, and they are 2-3 rows back. No major signage just one on the door.

They will take a credit card but the guy has to fax the data to the home office and a receipt is faxed back. They probably will take a check, not sure about cash. They do most of there business based on an account. So be kind to these guys it's not a retail operation. I would hate to see them close the door to all the DIYers.

Got a fair bit of the framing done this weekend - plus roughed in the bath PVC pipes.

http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k242/BritInVA/HT/Frame-1.jpg

http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k242/BritInVA/HT/Frame-2.jpg

http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k242/BritInVA/HT/Frame-3.jpg

I need to remove and re-frame the doors - that will have to wait till next weekend. Hopefully get some of the electrics run during the week.

Quick question for those that put up wall sconces......what electrical boxes do you need to use, the standard rectangular boxes or the round ceiling boxes? Or does it mater?

I'm hoping that the rectangular ones are OK as I've not seen any adjustable depth circular boxes in the Carlon range.

I wasn't certain exactly where I was going to stick mine so I left the wires dangling in the wall. Once I had the final location I cut a hole and grabbed the wire.

I made a furring strip frame and mounted an old work box to the frame. Then I glued and screwed (one each corner) the assembly to the holes in the drywall. It's very stable. More than a box nailed to a stud and certainly more stable than the dial a depth boxes I used for outlets. They are at the correct surface level to match my wall treatments. I used just the single gang square box.

Before the inspector came I just took a magic marker and wrote "sconce here" on the concrete walls he looked but didn't say a word.

BIG - Thanks.

Did your sconces not require a back box for the wire connections - or was there room in the sconce for the connections?

May take similar approach. I pretty much know where my sconces will go but the less boxes in the wall the better. Worse happens I can always add a box if required later.

I did use a back box. It's an old work single rectangular box.

I made a frame out of 1x1 1/2 furring strips (full size) then mounted the box to the frame. Then glued and screwed the frame and box into a hole in the wall. Pulled the wire into the box before of course.

Has anyone run electrical wiring under a concrete floor? I want to include power and other connections (butkicker/gaming) under the seating area.

Trying to work out how deep below surface it should be and what protection (steel conduit) should be used.

Thanks,
Mark

I ran a power feed to the area of the island in my concession area. (aka the bar)

I think generally they want it under the slab. Although you might get by with a deep enough trench. A call to the code office would confirm this.

I scored the concrete with a diamond blade in my circular saw. ( the dustiest thing I ever did in my life) Then went after it with a chisel and sledge hammer. My thought with the scoring is if I went deep enough the chisel part would be a piece of cake.....wrong.

After about 20 minutes of wacking away with my sledge, I went and rented a junior jack hammer. It looks like a tommy gun and busted out the concrete down to the gravel. (1 hour job to make a 6 foot trench). I did run into the some wire meshing that I cut and folded out of the way and later bent back into position holding the conduit in the hole.

Then the power cord went into conduit rated for encapsulating in concrete ( the blue smurf tube at HD). They will want to inspect the trench and the wiring as part of the electrical rough-in and then they will give you an ok to fill it in.

To avoid any surprises be sure you avoid any buried sewer lines and be careful around the perimeter where you may have a drain system. I brought the one end of the conduit and wire up in the middle of the base plate of the wall and connected to an outlet at that location. Put the wire into the smurf tube while it's straight rather than thinking you'll pull it in later. It's just a lot easier.

BIG - so you trenched completely thru the slub down to the gravel bed (4" +)? :eek:

Was hoping just to go down about 2". I have a small angle grinder and a heavy duty Kango drill that goes thru concrete like butter :D

Yes, but before you do I'd make a call.

Had a constructive weekend!

Got the HVAC completed, finished the main framing, got some of the electrical wiring done and most of the fire stopping done! Will spend weekday evenings finishing electrical wiring and fire stopping.......next weekend will be soffits and plumbing.

Man, you're making good progress! Keep it up! Fire blocking is such a pain in the a$$ isn't it?

Yeah Fire-Blocking is a tedious task!

I went out and purchased a few early sheets of drywall for this then it dawned on me that I had a whole stack of scrap drywall still in the garage from the demolition. So kepping the new sheets and been using this reclaimed drywall.

So TIP for anyone out there that also is doing demolition keep the old drywall for Fire-Blocking!

Cheers,
Mark

Yeah Fire-Blocking is a tedious task!

I went out and purchased a few early sheets of drywall for this then it dawned on me that I had a whole stack of scrap drywall still in the garage from the demolition. So kepping the new sheets and been using this reclaimed drywall.

So TIP for anyone out there that also is doing demolition keep the old drywall for Fire-Blocking!

Cheers,
Mark
I had my builder put drywall in my attic so I could finish it in the future. They are 12 foot sheets, so I had to go to the attic, cut them into smaller sections and lug it downstairs.... 3 flights of stairs kind of sucked!

For fireblocking, it sure was nice to be able to use drywall in areas where 1 1/2" thick wood just wouldn't fit! :)

My planned screen is 16:9 Format , 80” wide x 45” high with seating position at 11’ (so over 1.5 x width). My understanding is that eyes should be circa 1/3 way up screen so that puts screen about 30” off the floor and top of screen at 75” (6’ 3”)

For projector my preference is DLP with a budget up to $2,500. My current contenders are (min/max mounting distance for 80” screen):

Infocus IN76 122”/153”
BenQ PE7700 108”/148”
Optoma HD72 125”/151”

Given that there is going to be some projector noise I would like if possible to include in the soffit (preference) or in a hush box.

My rear soffit will be 148” from the screen – so right on the boundary of the max throw distance for each projector! Will this cause an issue (i.e. does picture degrade at the boundaries?)

From what I understand the projector lens needs to be central to the top of the screen. My soffit will be 84” from the ground. So if incorporated into the soffit the lens would be 9” to 12” above top of screen. So that’s a problem i.e. using keystone correction is not recommended – right?

So if I’m correct I will be better to mount projector under the soffit (and maybe raise screen a little) and then create a hush box under the soffit if I find noise a problem.

Thanks in advance for any guidance.

Cheers,
Mark

Mark,

Thats basically the route I took, the AE900 is pretty flexible from a mounting position, but even so, I still had to mount it about at the height of the screen in order not to have any keystoning. You can either raise your screen up some if you have height constraints under your soffit or drop the projector some toe eliminate the keystone. I didn't want my projector any lower than it is, so I ended up raising the screen another two inches, I believe the bottom of mine is at 32 inches now, which still puts the front row in the bottom third and a little less than half way on the riser.

This is exactly why you need you need to buy and mount the projector during construction. You need some trial and error in order to get it right.

Bud

Bud - Thanks.

Won't be able to but PJ until June (waiting for Bonus payout). :(

I had pretty much come to conclusion I'd be better off below soffit and raising screen slightly......my biggest concern is picture quality at the extremes of the throw distance.

Where are you on the 'throw' scale? Are you near the max for your screen size?

I could possibly go for next size up screen (87") but I only have a 12' width and don't want to overdo screen size so proportions of the proscenium don't look odd.

I have a 104" in 16:9 and the projector is mounted at about 12 feet. The throw range for a 104" image is 10-21 feet for a 1.0 gain screen. How wide is your room? I have about 11.5 feet have about 17 inches left on the sides of the screen.

Bud

Looks like I will have 12' 1" drywall to drywall.

So given you are throwing a 104" image on a 11' 6" wall I should be fine with moving up to a 87" screen (will be bang on 1.5 x screen width to seating). This will give me 27" either side for speaker housing and shadow box.

This will increase the max throw for the IN76 to 169", PE7700 to 161" and HD72 to 164".......so not on the extreme of throw.

So settled :D will plan on 87" screen, projector mounted under soffit with lens level with top of screen at distance of 148".

Bud - Thanks for your help.

Cheers,
Mark

Anyone got any suggestions for ceiling speakers for rear channel use?

Posted This Thread (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=668855) in speaker forum but no responses yet.

Cheers,
Mark

I used Ascends 340SEs for the LCR and used Sonance Symphony S622TRs (in ceiling) for the surrounds. The Sonance speakers were recommended to me from Ascend, since they do no not manufacture in wall/ceilings.

Bud

I like the concept of an angled baffle to direct the sound toward the seating area.

Triad makes a few versions: http://www.triadspeakers.com/products/ics6mon.html

Since my rear speakers are in the middle of the room on the ceiling I took triads box design and made a DIY MDF version. Used the Audax HT surround parts (madisound.com) I used the Audax HT kit for a 7.1 setup. Used the pre-made boxes to save time for the l/r/c/s/s

Then got 3 Sub kits from Parts express. A 15 for LFE and two 10's to give some bottom to the L/R.

I looked at the Triads as well. Just a little more money than I wanted to spend (more like I had :p ).

The S622TRs (http://www.sonance.com/subs/products.php?category_id=16&option=get_category&thread_one_cat_id=HT&thread_one_cat_name=Home%20Theater&thread_two_cat_id=3&thread_two_cat_name=In-Ceiling) also have pivoting woofers and tweeters. I'm pretty happy with them.

Bud

Bud - Thanks. I was considering the Asends also but there side surronds were not too pleasing on the eye (mine will be visible).......you used the Sonance Symphony S622TRs for both side & rears......I'll take a look.

Big - I'll take a look at the Triads also

Thanks both.

Mark

Like Bud said, the Triads are a bit pricy, but I've read great things about them. I have all Ascends but am hiding the 4 surrounds in columns.

Just checked the Triad InCeiling Silver/6 MiniMonitor - Ouch! see what you mean pricy - a pair would soak up my entire speaker budget.

The Symphony S622TR's do look in my price range and my be a better bet for my side surrounds also - Bud you seem to be a shrewd shopper and recommended vendors?

Thanks,
Mark

Here is my DIY faux triad that cost about $200 pair to make.

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b393/bigmouthindc/ceilingspeaker.jpg

Here it is after fabric and trim. It's the one just to the left of the projector in the picture.


http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b393/bigmouthindc/DSCN3321.jpg

Hi BritInVa,

What software did you use to create the image below?

http://wright-empire.com/ht/HT-Layout-1.jpg

Thanks,

Neil

Sweet room DC!

What software did you use to create the image below?


Neil - I used MS Visio (perk of my job)

Big - you room is awesome - I needs me a visit :D The $200 was the enclosure - not the complete speaker set up? From what I googled in Triads was looking over $2K

Brit:

The electronics ran $170 and I estimated the rest at $30.

http://www.madisound.com/audaxhometheater.html

The crossovers come pre-assembled.

http://www.abt electronics.com/product/17071.html (remove the space in the URL!!!)

Do not. I repeat. DO NOT buy from BrandNamez, even though they're cheaper. The don't carry them and I canceled my order through them after a few weeks. Poor customer service.

Bud

Bud - Thanks. These Sonance in-ceiling speakers look jus right and might even go back with the Asends for mains and use the sonance for all surrounds. The Asend are priced right and get rave reviews - only negativity has been some cosmetic issues.

I'll defer my decision until I see/hear BIGs setup over the weekend. If I'm reading his comment correctly the Triads can similarly priced.

The electronics ran $170 and I estimated the rest at $30

Cheers,
Mark

Been another productive weekend.

Got the copper plumbing nearly done - just got a minor leak on a threaded connection to the shower - but cannot fix without un-soldering an elbow :(

Nearly finished my soffits and electrical - should get all that done during the week.

Think I just need to get my speaker conduit done then should be good to go for 1st inspection.

Also found some local dealers that stock the Sonance In-Ceiling speakers so going to check them out.

Cheers,
Mark

I went to a local dealer of the Sonance - they had the S622TR In-Ceiling and the S622T In-Wall speakers - was not the best demo set up (just a load of speakers on the wall).

The sales rep (after discussing my current equip wish list and price points) there was advising that the Definitive Technology In-Ceiling (UIW 64/A Reference) and In-Wall (UIW BP/A) surrounds were better and also was recommending the BP7006 for Front Sides and ProCenter C2 for Center.
[Edit] the BP7006 also have built-in powered subwoofers [\EDIT]

They had demo rooms with DT speakers but not the exact set up as above - sounded pretty good......will need to go back and demo properly (any suggestions for content to test with).

Anyone got experience with Definitive Technology? I'll also check out the Speaker forum and other reviews.

Cheers,
Mark

BIG - Those Audax HT Kits won't work out. Unfortunatly my soffits are too small.

I went to a local dealer of the Sonance - they had the S622TR In-Ceiling and the S622T In-Wall speakers - was not the best demo set up (just a load of speakers on the wall).

Cheers,
Mark

Where did you go to hear the Sonance?

MyerEmco
47100 Community Plaza
Sterling VA, 20164

Is in the Sugarland Crossing Shopping Plaza off of Route 7 - their set-up for demoing the Sonance was poor - just a wall of speakers so difficult to judge.

Well, they are for surrounds (in my case). I'm sure that's not how they were demoed and they were recommended by Ascend, so who knows. I looked at the Def Techs, almost bought some off ebay a while back, then heard about the Ascends.

Bud

Bud

I was not implying the Sonances were poor - just the demo facility the dealer had for them. The Sonances sounded OK but like I said they were mounted in a wall with about 10 others that were also OK. I'm sure the demo did not show them of to their full potential.

The problem I'm having with these internet-only brands is the lack of being able to hear them for myself. The Ascends & Axioms get great reviews from those that own them. But then most people seem rave about the speakers they own - not heard anyone say spent $2k + on speaker and they are rubbish :eek:

The one good thing about the Def Techs is both Magnolia & MyerEmco stock them and have reasonable demo capabilities with choices of media feeds so I can get a truer feel for them. If any HT'ers in the NoVA area have Asends, Axioms or Def Techs (I think I'm giving up on my old love Mordaunt Shorts) and are willing to let me have a listen appreciate a PM.

Choices, choices, choices! :rolleyes:

Mark

I know, I did not take it that way. The Ascends have a 30 day policy, keep that in mind.

Bud

Went into Magnolia this eveing and listerned to a demo of Denon AVR 3806, Denon DVD 1920, Def Tech BP7006 Front L&R, Def Tech CLR2002 Center and Def Tech BP2X Side surrounds.....did sound good.

Was impressed with the Bass even though the BP7006's didn't have the LFE connected......and seemed OK on the WAF

The above Def Tech set-up with UIW 64/A rear In-Ceiling retails $2,550 and I would think should be able to get around 15-20% off that.

So for now I'm going to base my build on wall mounted sides and in-ceiling rears.

Won't be buying till June so I can still be swayed.

Mark

I posted a question about the Def Techs in the Speaker Forum (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=671780) but wondering if part of question will get more response from the acoustic folks in this forum.

The Def Techs BP7000 series are Bipolar so therefore treating the screen wall with Linacoustic will cancel out the rear sound........so if I use these should I not treat the screen wall at all or should I partially treat? If answer is partial treatment where? :confused:

Thanks,
Mark

PS.....Framing, Electrics and plumbing complete.....should get the HVAC and speaker conduit done this weekend (although got some yard work to do :( ). Hoping to go for inspection next Friday. :D

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/archive/index.php/t-526941.html

might be useful

BIG - This soooooo complicated. I finally find speakers that I like the sound of and in my budget......but the 'experts' don't recommend using Bipolar fronts in a dedicated HT!

- Is anyone out there using the BP7000 series in their dedicated HT?
- Are you happy with them?
- Did you do any rear treatment?

I guess I need to ensure I have a return policy on any speakers I buy but that don't help my planning :(

Well I think I'm 99% ready for my first inspection.

- Framing complete
- Plumbing complete (except final position of the shower p-trap)
- HVAC complete
- Electrical (just need to route one final wire)

I've got a questiobn to any Loudouners out their on Firestopping.

I've used drywall and insulation between walls and ceilings/soffits and also along the adjoining walls. Do I need to also use insulation between each of the I-beams in the ceiling? I'm going to be doing this eventually to help with noise but not sure if needs to be in place for Firestopping.
Just spoke to county and no need to firestop between rooms in ceiling - so will do when I insulate for noise

All being well I'll be arranging inspection for Friday.

Cheers,
Mark

Good luck on the inspection!

Jerrod - Thanks......all done with pre-inspection work now (other than pre-paring some grounds - but waiting to talk to the inspector).....oh yeah also need to install the freezeproof faucet!

Watch this space Friday for a happy or glum Brit!

Drywall lift came - all assembled now.

Auditioned a few more speakers Boston (yuck), Klipsch (OK-ish) and Def Tech Mythos (OK - but not as good as the DT Bipolars).......going to be checking out a friends Polks soon.

I love my Ascends so far. I haven't heard the full 7.1 setup yet, but the 304's across the front sound great!

Yeah - heard Ascends are good however I don't really like the look of their surrounds.....Bud has found the Sonance In-ceiling great. If I can swing a business trip to Atlanta guess where I'm heading :D

Well the good news is I passed the Electrical Inspection. I spoke to the inspector about using a Inlet receptacle (http://www.twaathome.com/Catalog/Model_4937.htm) and he was fine with that.

I also passed Mechanical - but nearly failed that as I split a new 6" duct (tied into the main trunk) into 2 6" regesiters. Luckily he was leanent!

However, I failed plumbing. I had taken 3 connections of a 1/2" pipe and your only allowed 2. So need to adjust that a bit! Hopefully I can get that sorted and be ready for re-inspection next Friday (camping this weekend).

Good job, I failed plumbing as well, failed to insulate the pipes from freezing and failed to run 100 psi pressure test on the line, I just hooked it into the water supply and said no leaks...

oops

Mark sounds like it won't be long before you'll be a rockin and slingin mud!

BIG - This soooooo complicated. I finally find speakers that I like the sound of and in my budget......but the 'experts' don't recommend using Bipolar fronts in a dedicated HT!

- Is anyone out there using the BP7000 series in their dedicated HT?
- Are you happy with them?
- Did you do any rear treatment?



I don't know if you have had a chance to listen to an Mirage products, but for performance, and IMO they are better than the Def Techs.

Any way, I have had the Mirage bi-polars (M3-si) first for stereo listening (incredible) and then in a home theater setup. I was not happy with the type of sound bipolar speakers portrayed for home theater. It is too diffuse. If you want "pin point accuracy" when experiencing the home theater sound, I think bi-polars are not the way to go. Yes they can fill a room with sound, yes they can sound incredible, but no matter how they market it I really don't think the bipolar sound is right for a dedicated home theater. Either that or they need a lot of specialized room treatments.

I am in the process of building a very modest dedicated home theater room and will be using some form of direct radiating speakers for the fronts and dipolar (or quad-polar) for the surrounds. Currently I have Monitor Audio GR60s and am debating a total Axiom system or purchasing the MA Gold LCR and going with Axiom surrounds.

Bruce

Bruce - thanks. I see Magnolia are a dealer - funny they didn't suggest these at all, was push Boston, Def Dech and Martin Logan......I see if either of the local Magnolios have them

Got my plumbing sorted this afternoon, just need to get the shower base installed......got another Plumbing inspection scheduled for Monday and if that passes will get Framing inspection done on Thursday or Friday.

Yipee - just passed plumbing......hope to arrange for Framing inspection on Thursday, insulate over weekend and pre-drywall inspection on Monday.

Hopefully thinks will move faster then!

I need to take Pics before drywall so will post some soon.

Nice Mark, keep it going and post lots of pictures !!

Brit -

Man, you're SMOKIN'! You're putting me to shame! But that's good...now I can pick your brain on my project!

Keep on it! Can't wait to see it.

Tom

Tom - Your welcome over any time. Just call ahead (think you have my number)

Some pictures.

First the screen wall

http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k242/BritInVA/HT/Sreen-Wall-08May06.jpg

This is the wall to left of screen

http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k242/BritInVA/HT/Left-Wall-08May06.jpg

And wall to right of screen

http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k242/BritInVA/HT/Right-Wall-08May06.jpg

Looking towards the Bar

http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k242/BritInVA/HT/Rear-Bar-08May06.jpg

and Towards the Entrance

http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k242/BritInVA/HT/Entrance-08May06.jpg

In this picture you can see the projector mount with 2" conduit to the closet with another 2" conduit for the star-ceiling

http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k242/BritInVA/HT/Projector-08May06.jpg

This is the plumbing I had to change!

http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k242/BritInVA/HT/Plumbing-08May06.jpg

And nice new (and clean) drywall lift - ready and waiting :eek:

http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k242/BritInVA/HT/Clean-DryWallLift-08May06.jpg

Looks great. Thanks for keeping us updated.

Just ordered 2 pairs of Aura Bass Shakers - got a great deal going on Partsexpress

Looking towards the Bar





Sheesh! Your space is so clean! Do you do most of the work outside and bring it in?!

Bruce

Holy smurf tubes batman, very nice man, very nice.

It looks from the picture that you are only planning on 1 location for your projector?

I was personally thinking of setting up 2 drop points, just encase, I need to change
projectors in the future, any thoughts to that regard?

Or are you just going cut into the conduit if you need to?

Sheesh! Your space is so clean! Do you do most of the work outside and bring it in?!

Bruce

Nah - I just try to keep area clean, once trod on a nail in a peace of wood laying on floor during a previous project. Once you do that you tend to be more careful :)

Holy smurf tubes batman, very nice man, very nice.

It looks from the picture that you are only planning on 1 location for your projector?

I was personally thinking of setting up 2 drop points, just encase, I need to change
projectors in the future, any thoughts to that regard?

Or are you just going cut into the conduit if you need to?

Just the one projector location - the need for soffets and the desire for star field ceiling pretty much dictated that. All the projectors I'm keeping track of can be accomodated at that location.

How far from the screen if I may ask?

Current plan is head/seating will be about 11' from screen, and the projector Lens about 12' 4" - throwing a 87" wide screen. Projectors under consideration are Infocus IN76, BenQ PE7700 and Optima HD72......you'll find more info from post #76 in the thread.

Construction Costs so far:

- Building Permits $275
- Electrical $152
- Framing $282
- HT $62 (stuff like conduit and boxes for speaker cables)
- HVAC $242
- Plumbing $735 ($430 is the shower base and screen)
- Tools $96 (tools needed to buy - not incl drywall lift as we hope to sell)

Total running at $1,870

LOOKING GOOD!

I see a whole bunch of empty conduit and the thought crossed my mind that it might be easier to thread wire/rope in them now while you can still wiggle them a bit if they get sluggish or hung up . You also have some extra elbow room to stand and maneuver. Getting all that speaker wire in place will be fun.

LOOKING GOOD!

I see a whole bunch of empty conduit and the thought crossed my mind that it might be easier to thread wire/rope in them now while you can still wiggle them a bit if they get sluggish or hung up . You also have some extra elbow room to stand and maneuver. Getting all that speaker wire in place will be fun.

Yes - was thinking about that earlier. Will definitely put something in prior to drywall.

Also can't remember if you discussed this before but did you future proof for:

Directv/dish: just need a couple of runs of RG6 quad shield from a location outside the house to the equipment stack. the outside termination should be in the general vicinity of where a dish might get located.

OTA HD antenna: one RG6 from attic and/or outside to stack.

Internet connection/ FIOS connection. RG6 QS and CAT5 network wire from where they would enter the house to the equipment stack.

While today you may have plans for a particular HD vendor. 2 years from now you may want to change vendor because of their offering.

Also can't remember if you discussed this before but did you future proof for:

Directv/dish: just need a couple of runs of RG6 quad shield from a location outside the house to the equipment stack. the outside termination should be in the general vicinity of where a dish might get located.

OTA HD antenna: one RG6 from attic and/or outside to stack.

Internet connection/ FIOS connection. RG6 QS and CAT5 network wire from where they would enter the house to the equipment stack.

While today you may have plans for a particular HD vendor. 2 years from now you may want to change vendor because of their offering.

Yes, you did and took your advice and ran an RG6 Quad up to the attic and I have an empty 3/4" conduit run to the Telco demarc and also another 3/4" conduit run to the remaining unfinished basement area.

As it happens Verizon are outside digging up our lawns running the conduit for the fiber - so looking forward to some more competition to the Cable & satalite providers in near future.

Something else people might notice is I took the advice of someone else on the forum (sorry can't remember who) and spay painted the location of the vertical studs on the floor for easy location during and after drywall.

Something else people might notice is I took the advice of someone else on the forum (sorry can't remember who) and spay painted the location of the vertical studs on the floor for easy location during and after drywall.


I am using chalk or an orange wood crayon for the same purpose. Works great.
The paint gives a good definition of the stud width.

Bruce

Do not forget analog phone lines to equip rack. Your going to love FIOS, I have the 15MB service.

I think it was Larryrep. I had my six year old go around and mark all the studs on the floor with a sharpie. He was pretty close most of the time!

Bud

once you get the wall insulation up,mark the location of the ceiling joists near the top of the walls. By the time you get around to putting up the second layer it's useful to have some definitive joist locators. In my case it was to avoid screwing into a joist.

Things are looking good, Mark. Nice work.

Congrats on the permits you passed... I finlly got all mine cleard and drywall started yesterday.

Good news about the FIOS service too... I've seen some markings on the streets around my place, so hopefully they'll cover the couple of miles bewtween my house and yours pretty soon...

Good news on 2 fronts!

First just passed my Framing Inspection so will be going out later and getting the insulation - if all goes well will get pre-drywall inspection on Monday.

Second the Verizon contractor has run the Fiber conduit thru my yard with no major disturbance - on some they had to dig into driveways and repairs are appalling!

Congrats Mark! My framing inspector was pretty easy going. ie "Did you know your egress window is 2" too high?" Me: "ummmmmm" Inspector: "Well, just use a thick pad with your carpet and you'll be fine"

Close-In inspection paseed - so now need to order the drywall (60 sheets).....let the fun begin! :D

EXCELLENT! Good work. I'm glad one of us is making progress!

Tom

Mark I'm taking my break HA!, Just a FYI.

HD/Lowes aren't the only places to buy rock

Half way into my project I discovered Global building supply in Leesburg. (just south of the outlet area)

They offered better service, brought the rock right to my pick-up and helped me load.

had a better selection (Like 8,9,10,12 etc ft. lengths)

They carried the Grabber brand screw which worked better into metal channel then the "Grip-tite" brand at the boxes.

They carry a full line of metal framing including Hat channel and RC channel.

The brand of rock came with a lightly printed screw guide on the surface 16 inch on centers. Made hitting the studs a lot easier.

Price was similar to HD but not cheaper

Not sure about their delivery services though.

BIG - Glad you had your break(s) we don't want you over exerting.

Are they located at Lawson Road? I'll give them a call.

Tom - I hope you don't mind if the drywall lift is not as clean by time it gets to you :D

Yes Lawson

http://www.mapquest.com/maps/map.adp?formtype=address&addtohistory=&address=21%20Lawson%20Rd%20Se&city=Leesburg&state=VA&zipcode=20175%2d4460&country=US&geodiff=1

Just gave them all a call HD works out at $745, Lowes at $763 and GBS were $820. inc del & tax

So looks like HD

Don't mind at all. You should have it all broken in for me!

Tom

Just don't break it for those folks further down the food chain. ;)

Just gave them all a call HD works out at $745, Lowes at $763 and GBS were $820. inc del & tax

So looks like HD

STOP!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Don't buy from HD. Go to Lowe's with HD's prices, and they will match them, and give you 10% on top of that. HD was cheaper in my area, so I got Lowe's to match and I saved nearly $200 once I was done.

Drat - too late. Ordered on the way home!

Quick Update - slow progress due to some landscaping and other wife requests.

- Drywall delivered on Friday. The HD guy took it right outside my walkout basement on the lift so only had to move it 8' thru the door :)

- Reworked the Star Ceiling design (details on this thread (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=7699308#post7699308))

- Installed the firring strips within the soffit area and started insulating the ceiling, should finish that tonight. Insulation has so far been the worse part of this build.

- 4 cases of Green Glue on order

- All being well may start drywall on Tuesday night, but off to Atlanta on Wednesday so no more progress until the weekend......but hope to be popping in on Bud so will be a great trip :D

Mark,

Think about some specific material you want to demo when you come by and I'll try to accommodate that. Or consider bringing some specific stuff with you.

Looking forward!

Bud

I wish I would have thought more about the star cailing and roughing something in before drywall.... oh well. Looks like you came up with a good plan.

I haven't been to Atlanta in a while, but might have to get down there for business sometime and stop in to see the Blazing Ridge Cinema.

1st Layer of drywall is near complete (with exception of soffits)

Front

http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k242/BritInVA/HT/1stLayerDWfront.jpg

Rear

http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k242/BritInVA/HT/1stLayerDWrear.jpg

Due to sound isolation I am going to be dry walling the soffits so don't believe that they can be used as bass traps. However, I've read that I should stuff them with insulation.......is that correct - anything in particular or the standard insulation OK?

Final update is I've ordered the Projector......a Panny AE900U. In the price range I was looking in I didn't notice a lot of difference blacks looked slightly better on the IN76 but the deal via Visual Appex with Free Shipping, extended warranty and the mail in rebate (expires today) was too good to miss. This is probably the one and only area that I've spent less than my original budget!

Looks good. Bet that lift came in handy, hmmmm?

Bud

Looks good. Bet that lift came in handy, hmmmm?

Bud

It sure did and will be even more handy as the next ceiling layer is 12' lengths so as I can avoid end joints.

Cheers,
Mark

Been 'Green Glueing' today.....got the ceiling done......didn't have any really pungent smell like some have mentioned. Flows real easy and so far not made any mess :D

Thought I'd post my sound measurements.....

The measurement in the furnice room itself is about 75db, from within the HT with no drywall it was 72db, with single layer (plus R13 insulation) it was 64db.

Will report final after 2nd layer of drywall and green glue finished.

This will make you laugh.

I sooooo want to try out my new panny (should be here on Wednesday) talked my wife into a need for another HT in a box! We have a nice high berm in our rear yard so thought we could start having neighborhood yard movie nights.......so bought a $200 Phillips HTIB, 125w per channel w/250w center.

Next weekends out (at Hershey Park) so will look for a try-out night on Sat 17th! I'll let you know how it goes.

Going to start making a few more equipment purchases.

Receiver likely to be Denon AVR-3806 or AVR-2807
DVD player will be Oppo OPDV971H

Anyone any good tips for reputable sources (i.e. warranty valid)? I'd like to support an AVS sponsor (used Visual Apex for my projector) but I'm over budget so looking for best deal....search on Internet suggest 30% under MSRP on the Denon receivers, Oppo looks fairly static.

MARK:

Just a heads up, Oppo just released a new player last week. It has HDMI connection instead of the DVI.

BUT, IT DOES NOT HAVE THE SAME CHIP SET and the image quality MAY not be the same as the $199 unit. The new unit is priced 50 Less and you might have jumped for it when you start shopping

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=682896

If you want to save $50 see what the reviewers have to say about the image first.

Also there is no need to pay for shipping. (Amazon for one)

Big: Thanks - reading it now.....for a thread that started 5/31 its loooong

I just bought the Panny 900 too. Got it from Projector People with the same deal, except for the warranty. Wish I had read your thread before I ordered!

The new Oppo is using a lower quality chipset, so I doubt the video is as good. But, it does have DVD Audio and SACD. Personally, I'd probably go with the older one. I haven't bought a DVD player yet, but I'm seriously looking at that one.

I've bought a few things from OneCall (H/K receiver and Sammy DLP TV) and always have had good luck. Check them out if the price is right.

I'm leaning towards the tried and tested Oppo 971 - loads of info on the Oppo 970 thread. Looking at the Oppo sites comparison they recommend the Oppo 971 for screens over 50"

based on what I've read so far I'd agree, stick with the 971

Anyone looking to purchase from Smarthome.com (e.g. they sell Insteon) check out

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=7783016

Speaking of Insteon - I spoke with a one of there tech-reps. Turns out you can mix and match the Insteon and (cheaper) Icon stuff pretty easily when setting up 3 way circuits. The only real difference in the dimmers is the visual lights and for how many watts they are rated. Just have the Insteon run the load and the Icon units act as slaves.

I just made my insteon order thanks to Mark, saved a bundle too =).

I'm in drywall taping/mudding hell :(

I'm now in my 5th straight day of taping and mudding and can't see me finishing until saturday - boy will I be glad when its over - its got to rank #1 for the most horrible part of the build - I'll take fibre glass insulation over this any day :(

How many buckets on the wall, the floor, and in the air (sanding)?

Hope you remembered to seal off the returns from the room.

1/2 way thru my 3rd bucket - most of it on the wall. :D

I didn't completly seal off - I put a filter over the return

If most is on the wall then either you have great blade skills or you must not be thinning it like the crew who did my place.

They put a cup or two of water per bucket and stirred it with a beefy 1/2 drill and paddle until it was creamy.

When they were done we had to scrape the floor with a scraper blade it was everywhere.

But they didn't hardly have to sand at all.

Yeah I'm watering it down but I tend to mix in small quanities - got most on the wall and what didn't land on the floor typically fell on my head - I'll have some sanding but hoping sponge sanding will be sufficient in most cases.

If you can, post some pics of the edges and taping. I would like to see how it goes, as I am almost to the drywall part of my theater. :D

I know drywall is a pain, but the worst part? Did you have to do fireblocking? :D

Gents -

I too am in the drywall phase. I'm currently mudding and taping the ceiling, having already taped the walls. I got some great tips and info from this site for those who may need help getting started -www.drywallschool.com (http://www.drywallschool.com)

Kevin -

Actually I didn't have any Fireblocking issues - in fact it didn't cost me anything either as I used drywall that was removed as part of demolition. :)

The drywall taping/mudding isn't by any means hard - its just painfully slow as on corners you can only do one side at a time and need 24hrs to dry.

The area I had most problem with was trying to get the paper tape to bed in the mud. No matter what I did it kept bubbling. I found a tape adhesive which really helped me a lot. :o

In this pic you can see an outside corner with the left side with just tape glued to the wall (the spray adhesive is red) and the right side with 1st coat of mud.

http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k242/BritInVA/HT/drywall1.jpg

This picture shows final mud coat with some rough dry sanding before I wet sand with sponge.

http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k242/BritInVA/HT/drywall2.jpg

Hoping tomorrow is last day of mudding - and just sanding/sponging left :eek:

I would agree that this is the worst part of the build also - but it also is the part of the build that really starts to bring the "vision" to life. I can finally start to see what the room is going to look like and also can tell that sound treatment will be very necessary. The room is a little "live" right now...

Kevin -

Aw, drywall is not that bad :rolleyes: I can say that cause I just finished mine. :D Using the tapping mud for the tape joints made a HUGE difference. Then all purpose and then for the final coat use topping mud. I had very little sanding to do at all. In fact I was able to sand my entire 1200sq ft basement in about 4 hours. I used 3 boxes of taping mud, 6 buckets of all purpose and 4 boxes of topping mud. Thats a lot of mud :eek:

I had an easy time cleaning up because I used the brown construction paper from HD and laid it on the floor prior to tapping/mudding. I had been through this before and did not want to scrape up dried mud.

Glad you are progressing. Hopefully you can finish up this weekend. How are you going to texture? I decided to do a knockdown on the ceilings but am going to do a faux stucco/plaster look on the walls. I also decided to go with a star ceiling like you did.

Drew

Drew - I found some mud in HD called Easysand 45 by Sheetrock.....supposidly dryed in 45 minutes (not!).....I still found it took 4+ hours (and I was not laying on thick - plus its workability was short lived. I just ended up sticking with the low dust tubs from HD.

I'm not doing any texture.....the ceilings soffits will be flat paint (so need perfect finish :eek: ) and I'll be wood panelling the walls (although the HT will have fabric covered panels) so I'm just doing a rought mudding job on walls (yipeeeeeeee)

Kevin - Yes good thing is things are taking shape and hopefully on the home run after this weekend.

Drew - I found some mud in HD called Easysand 45 by Sheetrock.....supposidly dryed in 45 minutes (not!).....I still found it took 4+ hours (and I was not laying on thick - plus its workability was short lived. I just ended up sticking with the low dust tubs from HD.

I'm not doing any texture.....the ceilings soffits will be flat paint (so need perfect finish :eek: ) and I'll be wood panelling the walls (although the HT will have fabric covered panels) so I'm just doing a rought mudding job on walls (yipeeeeeeee)

Must be the high humidity of Virginia :p Are you buying the wood panelling or DIY?

Drew

DIY for the panelling - my woodworking skills tend to be better than my dry walling :o

I used the metal/tape combination corners. Makes for a really sharp corner. They work great.

Bud

DIY for the panelling - my woodworking skills tend to be better than my dry walling :o

Sweat, I can't wait to see that. I am doing the same thing for my bar. My plan is to use 1/2 stain grade birch plywood along with real maple wood. "Slap" it all together and get and old fashioned Irish pub out of it. But we will see.....long way from that.

Drew

I second Bud's recommendation on the paper/metal corners. Used them for all inside and outside corners. Worked great. Why are you only doing one side of the corner at a time? I've read this before somewhere, but I just finished doing my basement (650 ft^2, 55 sheets, 7 boxes of mud) and I did both sides at once. Didn't seem to be any problems at all. Looks great.

I'm curious on the woodworking on the bar that you guys are gonna do. I'm leaning towards building a custom "bar front" once the cabinets get installed (I sent them a 50% deposit yesterday). I'm thinking about a stained raised panel look or a wainscot look. I'll have to match the stain of the cabinets (or do something complimentary). Got some ideas, just have to figure out how to pull it off. I'm think I'm ahead of you guys in the bar department though.

Bud

I was really glad before, but after reading more of your thread, I am so glad I was able to hire out the drywall! My basement has a total of 220 sheets and I just couldn't imagine doing all of that myself. More power to you!

Bud - Herea are a few pics of british pub bars

The Bow Bells (Bow, London)
http://www.professorharbottle.co.uk/pub/londoneast/bowbells/bowbells2.jpg

The white Hart (Liverpool St, London)
http://www.professorharbottle.co.uk/pub/londoneast/whitehart/whitehart3.jpg

The Aldgate Excange (Aldgate, London)
http://www.professorharbottle.co.uk/pub/londoneast/aldgatex/aldgate2.jpg

The Cheshire Cheese (City, London)
http://www.professorharbottle.co.uk/pub/londoncity/cheshirecheese/cheshire3.jpg

The Shipright Arms (London Bridge, London)
http://www.professorharbottle.co.uk/pub/londonsoutheast/shipwright/shipw3.jpg

Mark,

No doubt that you've been to them all! Are there bigger versions of the pictures?

Bud

Now that is what I'm aiming for! :)

Bud - been to some but not all. Unfortunatly these were from a site called Harbottle's Pub Guide (http://www.professorharbottle.co.uk/pub/index.html)

I'm trying to narrow down to a few potentials and then see if I can get friends in UK to get some bigger snaps.

Ceiling colour ideas.

OK starting to think about the HT colour scheme. The walls will be a mixture of wood (possibly Oak) with fabric panelling with predominantly Red. Myself nor the Wife want black ceiling - don't think the Blue's will work with the wall treatments so think maybe a dark red.

Any suggestions or recollections of who has used red for ceiling?

Nice, thank you for the drywall pics. Your drywall skills look good, nice and smooth...

Nice, thank you for the drywall pics. Your drywall skills look good, nice and smooth...

Its called sanding :D

Ceiling colour ideas.

Any suggestions or recollections of who has used red for ceiling?

BritinVa, I have red on the ceiling...well, its sorta red...its the same color used as the base color on my wall (the wall is faux painted with red/maroon and brown/gold). you can see the colors in the pics in my sig.

A medium gray always looks nice with red, IMO. What color stain are you talking about?

Bud

Asem - I still need to get down to see your HT.....just been a bit pre-occupied with this drywall :(

Bud - Gray not good on the WAF scale - I'm thinking a medium oak stain, I need to start getting some test lumber/stain.

Final stages of mudding today :) hopefully just some sponge sanding tomorrow then I'll seal and post some pics.

Taking afternoon off to go to the Dominion Beer Festival in Ashburn :D :D :D - Highlight of the calendar :D

Well drywall hell is now over (well nearly - little bit to finish in the Bath). :D :D :D

Here are some current pics.

Towards Screen
http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k242/BritInVA/HT/drywall3.jpg

Towards Bar
http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k242/BritInVA/HT/drywall4.jpg

Now going to seal the drywall where it will be painted and start the stage.

Great news! Now the it enters the fun stage, eh?

Great news! Now the it enters the fun stage, eh?

I sure hope so!

Stage will be 11' x 4' - going to be using 2"x6" PT lumber which will sit on pink foam, then cover with 3/4" ply (or MDF). I know these things should be completely filled with sand but at $3.27 a bag thats going to be expensive!

I've seen others stick some solid blocks in the sand - is the OK - no adverse affect?

DW looks great!!

I had a pile of loose bricks that I couldn't use for anything lying around. I asked the same question.....they reside in the sand now. I just made sure that there was space around each brick so that they wouldn't rattle.

Saved me a trip to the dump. Can't tell they are in there.

If we didn't have so much rain of late you could have probably bought bulk at the landscape shops, now it's too wet.

If we didn't have so much rain of late you could have probably bought bulk at the landscape shops, now it's too wet.

Big - Yes will definitely be steering clear of bulk sand. We've had quite some rain. I now have a river in my back yard (previous owner warned me but said never got nearer than 6' to the house) - so far OK

Congrats on the drywall finish. I know I was glad when mine was done so enjoy. Now comes the real fun part. As for sand in the stage, I am not convinced it is necessary. Of course I could be wrong ;) . Any way I responded to you about the sand in my thread. You may want to consider using 2x8's or even 2x10's for the stage. I was originally going to use 2x6's and glad I changed my mind to 2x8's. Also I think you would be better off with 3/4" plywood or OSB rather than MDF or particle board - Just MO.

Drew

Thanks Drew - I've not found any specific information on whether the whole stage 'needs' to be filled with sand. Unless someone chimes in to give some good reasoning I'm going to just fill the 2 proscenium corners where sub(s) will be located and just insulate the rest.

Huge milestone. That's one big hump you got over. Things will speed up now.

I used 2x8s for riser and used the remainder for the stage (planned it that way). You'll want to make sure your riser has sufficient height so you can look over the seats/backs of heads. I could have went 2x10, wouldn't have hurt, based on the back of 090s in upright position. Not a problem for me, but if a kid is in the back seat and the front seat is not reclined, potentially could be an issue. I'm probably over thinking it and expect it not to be a real problem, but keep it in mind when you figure out your height. If you go 2x10, you're going to have to add a step.

Use 3/4 plywood, definitely. I also think you can get away with filling the sections for the sub, but make sure you at least fill the others with insulation. Where did you get the price of the sand? Sounds high to me. I think I used 24 bags for my stage, the cost is not significant when you compare it to everything else!

Bud

My stage is filled with sand and has 2 layers of plywood separated by roofing tar.

My riser is filled with insulation and has two layers of plywood separated by roofing tar.

When you stomp on the stage you get a thud, when you stomp on the stage you get a thunnnk. You can hear some inner resonances.

What does this mean in the over all end result? I don't think my ears are educated enough to tell you. But I was really surprised how dead the stage was when I filled it with sand. You can buy the cheapest grade at HD you don't need playground quality. It's in paper bags next to the cement

I made the sides of the stage separate pieces from the center and only filled the sides with sand. Fortunately, I had a landscaper doing work in my yard and I used a bunch of rocks to take up space. Otherwise, I wouldn't have bought enough sand! I just put the rocks in the bottom and filled the sand over them. While pouring, I moved the rocks a bit just to make sure I got sand underneath of them.

I filled the center portion with R-13 folded over on itself twice so it was 3 layers thick.

Glad you're done with the drywall. You'll definitely get geared up to build the riser and stage! I know I did!

Jerrod - I saw that you built a separate frame for the subs - what I can't tell from your pics is whether they remained fully decoupled. In this pic it looks like the curved front is attached to the sub section


http://pics.loosechangerocks.net/IMG_0563_1.JPG


But looks like you separated the plywood top.

I think I'll use similar construction but fully decouple (or rather just the carpet will couple the stage).

Thanks,
Mark

Mark - nice progress so far. You may have already made a decision on the sand in the stage, but you if not, like some others have mentioned, you can use brick to help supplement the sand. Take a look at John Kotches thread, around post #68 (I will post the URL in the next message once I have 5 posts...)

Randy

Here is the link to John's thread:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=676930&page=3&pp=30

Randy - Thanks (where in VA are you?)

I've worked out in my head what I'm going to do. The end result will look like r00sters but the sides will be decoupled completely. These sides will be about 18"x48" and be filled with sand & blocks. Main stage will be constructed with 2x8's and lower step 2x3's.....both topped with 3/4" ply.......hope to get timber tonight.

Hey Mark there is some good stuff going up on auction from a local coffee shop.

Lot's of cherry wood counter stuff and thought about your PUB theme.

Maybe you can use. here is one sample:

http://www.maxanet.com/cgi-bin/mnlist.cgi?rasmus40/13508

Hey Mark there is some good stuff going up on auction from a local coffee shop.

Lot's of cherry wood counter stuff and thought about your PUB theme.

Maybe you can use. here is one sample:

http://www.maxanet.com/cgi-bin/mnlist.cgi?rasmus40/13508

Had a browse thru but not quite the look I'm going for - thanks for the thought tho.

Cheers,
Mark

OK - this is how I'm going to proceed unless someone gives me good reason not to.

http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k242/BritInVA/HT/StageDesign.jpg

Appreciate feedback ASAP.

Cheers,
Mark

I'm a little further west of you, out in Leesburg.

Your stage plan looks okay to me if that is where you will put the subs. I think the reason for doing the complete stage in sand is to further deaden it, like Big mentioned.

I'm a little further west of you, out in Leesburg.

Your stage plan looks okay to me if that is where you will put the subs. I think the reason for doing the complete stage in sand is to further deaden it, like Big mentioned.

Nice to see another NoVA - quite a few of us here. Are you planning or mid-build or a HT?

Yes, I've planned/wired to put sub(s) in the corners - I'know sometimes this is less than ideal but my screen wall is only going to be deep enough for the center channel.

Thanks,
Mark

Mark, I think your design works well as long as you decouple the plywood top as well. Of course it is still sitting on the same sub-floor but I won't tell if you don't ;)

Sometimes it is a little easy to get carried away with all of this stuff. But you really got to love it.

Drew

Brit,

Yeah, I did put that piece of plywood all the way across the front. Not sure why I didn't cut it, and now that I think about it, I might just run my sawzall down the gap to decouple them.

I don't know that it will do much, especially since the actual part the sub sits on is filled to the brim with sand.

When you guys put the plywood top on the stage, are you leaving some space around the edges (1/4") so that it doesn't touch the walls? Then fill the gap with caulk. This should help decouple it as well.

Are you planning or mid-build or a HT?I'm in the planning/gathering phase, trying to get my arms around things I will need to build the room. Like most others, I will probably be finishing the basement/HT at the same time. I have a design ready to go and have already purchased the screen. Projector and seating are on the way as well. Once I get further along, I may start my own thread.

Sometimes it is a little easy to get carried away with all of this stuff.This is the truth - I have a tendency to overthink things and need to know when to say enough is enough!

Ceiling colour ideas.

OK starting to think about the HT colour scheme. The walls will be a mixture of wood (possibly Oak) with fabric panelling with predominantly Red. Myself nor the Wife want black ceiling - don't think the Blue's will work with the wall treatments so think maybe a dark red.

Any suggestions or recollections of who has used red for ceiling?

While the upper portion of our ceiling will be black, the bottoms of our soffits (I have signifiacnt soffiting... probably about a 1/3rd of the total ceiling surface area) and the front of our light trays will be Home Depot's "Chianti". It is, as you can imagine, a deep rich red.

Looking good, Mark. I have new pics to post as well. I actually have some painting done!

Mark, I think your design works well as long as you decouple the plywood top as well. Of course it is still sitting on the same sub-floor but I won't tell if you don't ;)

Sometimes it is a little easy to get carried away with all of this stuff. But you really got to love it.

Drew

Drew - agree toooooo easy to get carried away hence why I don't want to lug 50+ bags of sand if I don't 'really' have too. :eek:

I would think providing the sub platform is totally isolated from walls it should be fine - in your case with wooden subfloor thats virtually impossible.

In my case I have concrete so if the sub platform is totally decoupled from wall and main stage (1/4" gap) and the side encloses do not touch the sub platforms I should get a high degree of decoupling - only coupling will be the concrete floor and carpet.

Well thats my thinking - but what do I know :confused:

I don't know that it will do much, especially since the actual part the sub sits on is filled to the brim with sand.

Jerrod - Don't go making changes on my opinion - what to I know :D

When you guys put the plywood top on the stage, are you leaving some space around the edges (1/4") so that it doesn't touch the walls? Then fill the gap with caulk. This should help decouple it as well.
Thats the plan :D


I'm in the planning/gathering phase, trying to get my arms around things I will need to build the room. Like most others, I will probably be finishing the basement/HT at the same time. I have a design ready to go and have already purchased the screen. Projector and seating are on the way as well. Once I get further along, I may start my own thread.
Well you found the right place - its a great learning source, loads of really helpful and knowledgable folks and were lucky to have so many NoVA'ers :)


This is the truth - I have a tendency to overthink things and need to know when to say enough is enough!
Yep - much like that myself but at some time you got to put theroy to one side and just build it :D

Should the gap around stage be a complete void or should it be filled with an accoustic sealant or damping compound like green glue (I have 2 surplus tubes). Just wondering if over time the sub will vibrate the base to the wall.

More over thinking I suppose :confused:

Probably overthinking.... I had some extra spray foam that I sprayed in the gap, but I didn't have enough to do the entire stage perimeter.... oh well.

Mine is an open gap. Not much, but a little. I doubt it will vibrate it, but depends on the sub, I suppose. You just made an argument for filling the entire stage with sand.

Bud

I suppose. You just made an argument for filling the entire stage with sand.


Don't say that - was bad enough carrying all that lumber to basement - man that PT lumber is heavy :eek:

In one of the past issues of Home Theater Builder magazine, there was an article on building stages. I don't have it in front of me at the moment, but I recall it saying that you could stuff insulation in the gap using a ruler or something. That way, if your base did move, it may not actually touch the walls.

The stage has been framed and filled with insulation and sand.

As per others I notched the curved front board to allow easier bending.

http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k242/BritInVA/HT/stage1.jpg

This is a close-up of one of the Bass platforms......you can see its completely decoupled from the wall and main stage. I've used 5/16" ply spacers which will be removed once the flooring is laid.

http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k242/BritInVA/HT/stage2.jpg

And this is last picture of the framed/filled stage.

http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k242/BritInVA/HT/stage3.jpg

Just need to decide if the put some GG or insulation in the gaps. :confused:

Now if only this rain would stop and I could by the 3/4" ply for the flooring :(

Cheers,
Mark

Wonder if this qualifies my house as a water front property :eek:

http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k242/BritInVA/HT/waterfront.jpg

Careful what you say. The county is likely to raise your assessment in line with other waterfront property.

What I hate more than the rain is what we'll have next week.....a bumper crop of mosquitoes.

Mark,

I'm enjoying your thread. I'm impressed by your progress. I went without a stage, but have been contemplating adding one. You guys are giving me some good ideas.

This rain is starting to wear on me. The traffic has been horrible.

Mark, stage is looking good. Wish we could get some of that rain you guys in VA/DC have been getting. If it keeps up you may need to build an ark rather than a stage.

Drew

Mark -

You're flying through your build. Looking GREAT! Haven't decided yet on a stage, but it's starting to look like a better idea all the time.

I came within a 1/4" of testing whether or not water would run under the dricore as I hope. I happened to be in the basement putting some groceries (OK, beer) in the fridge just before the deluge on Sunday, when I noticed that the water was within a 1/4" of the bottom of my sliding door. The drain had become blocked overnight sometime. I cleared the drain and least I now I know the drain works! Just to give you other guys some idea, it's probably 3.5 - 4 inches deep at that point. It's the first time in over 4 years that we've had that problem.

I KNOW as soon I put a finished floor on top of that dricore it's going to flood.

Tom

In one of the past issues of Home Theater Builder magazine, there was an article on building stages. I don't have it in front of me at the moment, but I recall it saying that you could stuff insulation in the gap using a ruler or something. That way, if your base did move, it may not actually touch the walls.

Randy - did you happen to find that article?

I'm interested on any views of whether I should just leave gap as a gap or use Green Glue, or use some insulation.

Those 3' x 1.5" bass platforms each have 2.5 bags of sand (125ibs) and 2 - 4"x8"x16" solid blocks so I estimate about 250lbs of weight each - I doubt they are going to move - so I'm probably over thinking :confused:

Randy - did you happen to find that article?

I'm interested on any views of whether I should just leave gap as a gap or use Green Glue, or use some insulation.

Those 3' x 1.5" bass platforms each have 2.5 bags of sand (125ibs) and 2 - 4"x8"x16" solid blocks so I estimate about 250lbs of weight each - I doubt they are going to move - so I'm probably over thinking :confused:

It ain't moving! But, if you have scraps of insualtion it certainly isn't going to hurt anything. GG is too runny to fill the gap I would think. I anchored treated wood to the floor and then anchored the stage to those, so mine certainly isn't moving. I think I have 14 bags of sand in mine...

Mark - I will look for that article tonight when I get home from work. I agree with Jerrod that the GG would probably be too runny - it will probably sink to the bottom.

Found the article - yes, put some fiberglass insulation into the gaps between the drywall and the stage framing. Also, in your case, between the gaps in the different de-coupled sections you have.

Randy - Thanks will do that.

Out of interest what article are you referencing.

Cheers,
Mark

The article is in Home Theater Builder magazine, issue 1.4, April 2003, titled "DIY: Can your environment 'upstage' your equipment?" by Dennis Erskine.

Let me know if you need something else from it.

Randy

Was doing some surfing tonight looking for this article - didn't find it but found this interesting DE interview (http://www.avtalk.co.uk/forum/index.php?t=msg&th=13593&start=0&rid=0&SQ=0)

Here a a few Sketchup Renderings of the basic look I'm going for.

http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k242/BritInVA/HT/BritInVAHTModel1.jpg

http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k242/BritInVA/HT/BritInVAHTModel2.jpg
http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k242/BritInVA/HT/BritInVAHTModel3.jpg

I love it! I plan to do a bar in the back of my theater too. I think it lends better to larger groups especially during sporting events.

Panels like that will be cool looking!

Yeah, I like the panels, similar to what I want to do for my bar.

Drew