I don't have this option. I have:

Plug and Play
Language
Time
Game Mode
Blue Screen
Melody
PC
Emergy Saving
Blue Eye

I'm in Australia. Could this be a difference between Aussie and US units? I have the 4696. It's a new set and I had the justscan firmware applied this morning, but I didn't have the Color Weakness setting before either. Damn, that sounds like a handy setting to have!! :(

The US options under Setup are:

Language
Clock
Timer
Game Mode
V-Chip
Caption
Menu Transparency
Blue Screen
Color Weakness
PC
Blue Eye
Energy Savings
Function Help

Are you sure you have used the "down arrow" on the remote to reveal all your options? The V-Chip is a US/Canadian parental supervision feature, but certainly you should also have "Caption," "Function Help" (you need this to reveal your firmware version with the US FW), and "Menu Transparency."

Assume for some reason you don't have "Color Weakness." Many would gladly change sets with you to have that Justscan 1:1 pixel mapping FW option!!!

HELLO SAMSUNGUSA......ARE YOU READING THIS????

And also, "tonehenge," could you please describe for the rest of us exactly where in the menu system the new "Justscan" FW option appears in your FW version as well as describe its sub-menu options.

can they fix the set with the clody back light problem or will they replace it?

can they fix the set with the clody back light problem or will they replace it?

No, there is no "fix." Take it back now while you can still get your money back. It is defective, just like a car with a bad paint job. Buy from someone else with a more reasonable exchange policy. Buying a large 1080p LCD right now is problematic. The Mitsubishi 46131 and 46231 models have had the fewest problems, but the black levels and angle of viewing range (like the Sharp's) are not quite up to the Sony/Samsung panel. They also don't have 1080p component or analog PC inputs. Many believe they exhibit less motion blur, and they have many other nice features, however. The Sharp's have had a problem with dark bands, presumably from contamination from rollers in the manufacturing process. To get a mura-free Sony/Samsung panel may require a number of exchanges. They're certainly very nice if you get one, but you didn't. This will all be straightened out one day, just not now.....

No, there is no "fix." Take it back now while you can still get your money back. It is defective, just like a car with a bad paint job. Buy from someone else with a more reasonable exchange policy. Buying a large 1080p LCD right now is problematic. The Mitsubishi 46131 and 46231 models have had the fewest problems, but the black levels and angle of viewing range (like the Sharp's) are not quite up to the Sony/Samsung panel. They also don't have 1080p component or analog PC inputs. Many believe they exhibit less motion blur, and they have many other nice features, however. The Sharp's have had a problem with dark bands, presumably from contamination from rollers in the manufacturing process. To get a mura-free Sony/Samsung panel may require a number of exchanges. They're certainly very nice if you get one, but you didn't. This will all be straightened out one day, just not now.....

I have some mura on mine too, but it is not that bothersome....so far, and has actually gotten better as I have broken in the TV. My only hope, since I bought online, is to call Samsung. I may, but for now I just enjoy the beauty of Heroes, HDNET, and PS3 in 1080p. Even the 1080i in looks great. Hopefully I will get the Onkyo 674/PS3 handshake thing figured out to really enjoy 1080p without having to be fancy about it.

I have some mura on mine too, but it is not that bothersome....so far, and has actually gotten better as I have broken in the TV. My only hope, since I bought online, is to call Samsung. I may, but for now I just enjoy the beauty of Heroes, HDNET, and PS3 in 1080p. Even the 1080i in looks great. Hopefully I will get the Onkyo 674/PS3 handshake thing figured out to really enjoy 1080p without having to be fancy about it.

If you are having HDMI/handshake problems, it could be that the FW revision that they released to solve the similar problem with the D* H20-100 satellite receivers will also fix your problem. Please check your FW version. I seem to remember that someone posted that the latest version is 1023 for the 4095D.

BTW, I'm half Texan myself..........

If you are having HDMI/handshake problems, it could be that the FW revision that they released to solve the similar problem with the D* H20-100 satellite receivers will also fix your problem. Please check your FW version. I seem to remember that someone posted that the latest version is 1023 for the 4095D.

BTW, I'm half Texan myself..........

I am a transplant from other parts of the south. My mom is from TX, dad, LA (not CA).

Because I am a little tired, how do I check the firmware?

Thanks

The US options under Setup are:

Language
Clock
Timer
Game Mode
V-Chip
Caption
Menu Transparency
Blue Screen
Color Weakness
PC
Blue Eye
Energy Savings
Function Help

Are you sure you have used the "down arrow" on the remote to reveal all your options? The V-Chip is a US/Canadian parental supervision feature, but certainly you should also have "Caption," "Function Help" (you need this to reveal your firmware version with the US FW), and "Menu Transparency."

Assume for some reason you don't have "Color Weakness." Many would gladly change sets with you to have that Justscan 1:1 pixel mapping FW option!!!

HELLO SAMSUNGUSA......ARE YOU READING THIS????
Wow, that's a lot of options I don't have. Yeh, I've pressed the down arrow all the way but it just goes back to the top once you hit the bottom. I only have enough options for one page worth.

I don't have Caption or Function Help. Only the ones I mentioned. To see the firmware version on UK and Aussie sets, we need to go into the Service Menu, which for us is info+menu+mute+power whereas yours is mute+1+8+2+power or something.

I guess it's just a totally different firmware. In my service menu, I can see

T-FMSLMPEA-1015SVC Boot Merge:OK
T-MSLMPEUS-1000
T-MSLMPEUW-1014

which I think doesn't look anything like your firmware versions?

And also, "tonehenge," could you please describe for the rest of us exactly where in the menu system the new "Justscan" FW option appears in your FW version as well as describe its sub-menu options.
Justscan appears as one of the options under Menu > Picture > Size. Along with the others like 16:9, 4:3, zoom etc. You can also toggle through these just by hitting the P.Size button on your remote. I heard that for the UK firmware if you choose Justscan for HDMI, that setting doesn't stick when turning the tv off and back on again. Not sure if that's true, but with ours it does stick no matter what you do. I tested it with 1080p test patterns and they look fine. It's true 1:1.

I haven't been keeping up with this thread so I'm not quite sure where you are with it, but good luck with getting your firmware! I can't believe the tv was released like this.

I am a transplant from other parts of the south. My mom is from TX, dad, LA (not CA).

Because I am a little tired, how do I check the firmware?

Thanks

Please see my earlier post: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=9742598&&#post9742598

Just to be sure you understand, please also see: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=9801048&&#post9801048

These were on the 52" thread.

................
Justscan appears as one of the options under Menu > Picture > Size. Along with the others like 16:9, 4:3, zoom etc. You can also toggle through these just by hitting the P.Size button on your remote. I heard that for the UK firmware if you choose Justscan for HDMI, that setting doesn't stick when turning the tv off and back on again. Not sure if that's true, but with ours it does stick no matter what you do. I tested it with 1080p test patterns and they look fine. It's true 1:1.

I haven't been keeping up with this thread so I'm not quite sure where you are with it, but good luck with getting your firmware! I can't believe the tv was released like this.

This is incredible. Wonder how the Brazilian version of Justscan might work. How about the rest of Latin America. It's a little odd that main Samsung/Korea, where the Justscan FW mod originated, didn't hand the local FW update off with some software guidelines, one of which should have been to make sure it was accomplished expeditiously, since 1:1 pm is an international marketing issue. It would be interesting to know the exact origin of the various international FW versions. Was the US FW written in Mexico, California? Well, if anybody at SamsungUSA is working on this, the Aussie solution is what we are looking for and on all inputs. The "Picture Size" is exactly where 1:1 should be located, not buried someplace in the Setup menu. We would not be happy with a version which only affects the HDMI inputs and reverts to overscan again every time you turn off the TV, if that is in fact the way the UK version of Justscan works. Thanks very much!

...the Aussie solution is what we are looking for and on all inputs. The "Picture Size" is exactly where 1:1 should be located, not buried someplace in the Setup menu. We would not be happy with a version which only affects the HDMI inputs and reverts to overscan again every time you turn off the TV, if that is in fact the way the UK version of Justscan works. Thanks very much!
Just to be clear, the Aussie version is just like the UK version in that this fix is only for the HDMI input. No change to component which still has overscan.

Please see my earlier post: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=9742598&&#post9742598

Just to be sure you understand, please also see: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=9801048&&#post9801048

These were on the 52" thread.


Thanks Stew, Sorry for asking again. Aprpeciate the links!! :D

If you are having HDMI/handshake problems, it could be that the FW revision that they released to solve the similar problem with the D* H20-100 satellite receivers will also fix your problem. Please check your FW version. I seem to remember that someone posted that the latest version is 1023 for the 4095D.



Anyone else have the following setup that is working without "flicker?" If so, what firmware do you have?

LN-S4095
Onkyo 674
PS3
PS3->Onkyo 674->LN-S4095 in 1080p

Just to be clear, the Aussie version is just like the UK version in that this fix is only for the HDMI input. No change to component which still has overscan.

I guess that means that if you are using a component 1080p input, the Justscan choice is eliminated when you cycle through "P. SIZE" on the remote and that it is "grayed out" (unavailable) when you select the "SIZE" options in the main menu. And further, that when using Justscan on an HDMI input, the selection is not retained in the UK version when you cycle the power on the TV, but that it is retained in the AU version. Is that about right?

I do remember now that the original Korean FW upgrade was for only the HDMI inputs. I don't see any reason it should not also be a choice for the component inputs. I prefer that input whenever I can use it. It's not quite as "edgy," and I like the color spectrum better. But HDMI is certainly better than nothing. I'm just trying to eliminate all unnecessary scaling out of the equation on every input unless I actually want it for a specific reason, e.g., watching SD analog OTA and cable signals.

Thanks for your reply.

Friends,

I want to buy LN-S4696D. I went through the thred. Coudn't find the answer.

Could any one tell me whether this TV will in take 1080P singnals. I read in so many forums this features has to be looked in all 1080P TVs.

...Buying a large 1080p LCD right now is problematic. The Mitsubishi 46131 and 46231 models have had the fewest problems, but the black levels and angle of viewing range (like the Sharp's) are not quite up to the Sony/Samsung panel. They also don't have 1080p component or analog PC inputs. Many believe they exhibit less motion blur, and they have many other nice features, however. The Sharp's have had a problem with dark bands, presumably from contamination from rollers in the manufacturing process. To get a mura-free Sony/Samsung panel may require a number of exchanges. They're certainly very nice if you get one, but you didn't. This will all be straightened out one day, just not now.....Just to clarify about the Mitsubishi 46x31s: They don't have a straight analog PC input, but they do have a DVI-I input that can take either analog or digital. It can only do 1366 x 768 with my notebook PC (ATi 9600 Mobility) from the VGA output, but it doesn't look too bad. However, it looks simply unbelievable when getting 1920 x 1080 DVI-D out from my kids' PC's ATi Radeon 9800 Pro. IMO, there's no better way to hook up a PC than if your video card has DVI-D output, but the Mits can take it either way without using up an HDMI input.

The fact that it also has firewire and CableCARD make it practically future-proof, and don't let the average contrast ratio and refresh rates fool you - the video processing on the Mits has to be about as good as you're going to find and you get Full Spectrum color. The picture might not "pop" out at you as much as the ones set up for a showroom, but it's very accurate and natural looking. The closest to looking through a window or actually being there that I've seen.

All this, and no clouds or banding. :D

Friends,

I want to buy LN-S4696D. I went through the thred. Coudn't find the answer.

Could any one tell me whether this TV will in take 1080P singnals. I read in so many forums this features has to be looked in all 1080P TVs.



Yes it supports 1080p on the component and HDMI connections.

I'm using the PS3. It's so good. :) Believe me, an upscaling DVD player doesn't come close to the picture of Blu-ray or HD-DVD, and yes, I have both. I'm using a Toshiba HD-A2 for HD-DVD and upscaling DVDs, and Ice Age 2 and Kingdom of Heaven on DVD upscaled to 1080i look not in the same league as their respective Blu-ray versions.

It's not surprising that Blu-Ray looks better because it is passing a 1080p signal to the display whereas the upscaled DVD from the Toshiba is only 1080i. The issue with these Samsungs is that 1080i is actually processed as 540p so you are comparing a 1080p image against a 540p image. I am interested in an upscaling DVD player that outputs 1080p to the display. I certainly don't expect it to match Blu-ray, but on a 40" display I expect it to come close enough until the format war is resolved.

You can read more about this 540p issue here.

http://hdguru.com/?p=17

Notice that the 4695 failed both the deinterlace and 3:2 tests. This is why I think that 720p broadcasts are more detailed than 1080i broadcasts and is also why I am looking at getting an external video processor like the one below.

http://www.gefen.com/kvm/product.jsp?prod_id=4174

Yes it supports 1080p on the component and HDMI connections.

Thank you jlohrenz. I just want to make sure I am getting the right one.

Just to clarify about the Mitsubishi 46x31s: They don't have a straight analog PC input, but they do have a DVI-I input that can take either analog or digital. It can only do 1366 x 768 with my notebook PC (ATi 9600 Mobility) from the VGA output, but it doesn't look too bad. However, it looks simply unbelievable when getting 1920 x 1080 DVI-D out from my kids' PC's ATi Radeon 9800 Pro. IMO, there's no better way to hook up a PC than if your video card has DVI-D output, but the Mits can take it either way without using up an HDMI input.

The fact that it also has firewire and CableCARD make it practically future-proof, and don't let the average contrast ratio and refresh rates fool you - the video processing on the Mits has to be about as good as you're going to find and you get Full Spectrum color. The picture might not "pop" out at you as much as the ones set up for a showroom, but it's very accurate and natural looking. The closest to looking through a window or actually being there that I've seen.

All this, and no clouds or banding. :D

I agree completely with every single comment. This is a very good TV. AND it has a flat black, non-reflective bezel. Where all these guys got the idea that highly reflective, "piano black" made any kind of sense whatsoever, I don't know.

Re: the VGA input. Some have complained that since analog resolutions much higher than 1920 x 1080 have been around for a long time, there was no particular reason to limit that input to 1366 x 768 on the analog side.

One question I have is whether this TV properly de-interlaces 1080i, or whether we're missing every other line like most of the new 1080p sets. Somebody who knows will tell us eventually.....

If you are having HDMI/handshake problems, it could be that the FW revision that they released to solve the similar problem with the D* H20-100 satellite receivers will also fix your problem. Please check your FW version. I seem to remember that someone posted that the latest version is 1023 for the


It is the 1020 firmware. Is it really as easy with the xx95 and a usb stick? Does updating it void warranty? What other enhancements will I see? Will I have to go through readjusting all my picture settings?

Thanks for the input.

I agree completely with every single comment. This is a very good TV. AND it has a flat black, non-reflective bezel. Where all these guys got the idea that highly reflective, "piano black" made any kind of sense whatsoever, I don't know.

One question I have is whether this TV properly de-interlaces 1080i, or whether we're missing every other line like most of the new 1080p sets. Somebody who knows will tell us eventually.....

I like the piano black, my wife likes the piano black and almost everyone who sees our tv comments that they really like the piano black.

My sister's boyfriend got a Panasonic Plasma and commented that the one thing he liked about Samsungs is the piano black bezel.

Also, on the mura issue. I think this has to be related to panels created at the new Samsung/Sony factory. I got my 4095D back in August when prices were MUCH higher than they are now, but no one back then had a mura issue. I think that all of our panels came out of the old factory. It appears that when the new factory came online prices dropped and so did quality control. :rolleyes:

Anyways, these Samsungs display 1080i as 540p which is why I might get an external processor. See my post just a few above this one.

Please check your FW version. I seem to remember that someone posted that the latest version is 1023 for the 4095D.

..

I have searched this thread and not found it. Does anyone have a copy of the 1023 firmware for the 4095 that Stew is referring to?

Thanks

I like the piano black, my wife likes the piano black and almost everyone who sees our tv comments that they really like the piano black.

My sister's boyfriend got a Panasonic Plasma and commented that the one thing he liked about Samsungs is the piano black bezel.

I think it looks great, too, when the TV is turned off. Absolutely.

It is the 1020 firmware. Is it really as easy with the xx95 and a usb stick? Does updating it void warranty? What other enhancements will I see? Will I have to go through readjusting all my picture settings?

Thanks for the input.

My understanding is that even though it's very easy, they send out a tech to do it. I would think you should first drag yourself through to Level 2 CS, re-describe your problem and your FW version, and they can probably tell you if a FW update exists which is > 1020 as well as whether it might solve your problem. I doubt if the Level 1 people will be much help.....

i have searched through the forum but cannot find following, can someone pls advise?

1) how can I check the firmware version on 4096d?
2) is the new firmware out which fix the overscan problem, if so how can i upgrade to new firmware?

thanks

I didn't see this posted several thread posts back, but I know that someone said that the justscan firmware will be coming out within the next couple of weeks. Did the Samsug representative happen to give you a more exact time frame. The only reason I ask is that I will be building a HTPC and I currently have the 1011 version of the firmware. I can get away with doing the underscanning from the PC side of things, but I will feel much better knowing that there is a true 1:1 pixel mapping. This is one of the reasons I purchased this TV, but I guess I should have been a little more careful in reading the manual, since it says that it doesn't even except PC input through a HDMI / DVI interface.

I guess I do have one question. My HTPC will be using straight HDMI to HDMI. I am going this route because I want to push sound out as well through the device. Anyone see any problems going this route?

Thanks for the help.

I guess that means that if you are using a component 1080p input, the Justscan choice is eliminated when you cycle through "P. SIZE" on the remote and that it is "grayed out" (unavailable) when you select the "SIZE" options in the main menu. And further, that when using Justscan on an HDMI input, the selection is not retained in the UK version when you cycle the power on the TV, but that it is retained in the AU version. Is that about right?
That's correct. Except I'm not sure how the justscan option is handled for component as I don't have anything to hook up via component atm. Probably greyed out like you said.

It's not surprising that Blu-Ray looks better because it is passing a 1080p signal to the display whereas the upscaled DVD from the Toshiba is only 1080i. The issue with these Samsungs is that 1080i is actually processed as 540p so you are comparing a 1080p image against a 540p image. I am interested in an upscaling DVD player that outputs 1080p to the display. I certainly don't expect it to match Blu-ray, but on a 40" display I expect it to come close enough until the format war is resolved.

You can read more about this 540p issue here.

http://hdguru.com/?p=17

Notice that the 4695 failed both the deinterlace and 3:2 tests. This is why I think that 720p broadcasts are more detailed than 1080i broadcasts and is also why I am looking at getting an external video processor like the one below.

http://www.gefen.com/kvm/product.jsp?prod_id=4174

I've also got a Shuttle SN27P2 HTPC hooked up to my set, and the difference between SD-DVDs on it at 1080p and the Toshiba at 1080i is fairly negligible. If you "expect" upconverting DVDs to be close enough to Blu-ray or HD-DVD, you're really kidding yourself! :)

**SEE POST BELOW**

What? A 1080i signal is converted to 540p??? It's not just de-interlaced?

Darn. I just bought this two days ago, but this, in addition to the blacks being much worse when being watched in the dark makes me wonder if I should keep it...

I had clouds at the begining but they've mostly gone away. It has a Nov 2006 date.

It's not surprising that Blu-Ray looks better because it is passing a 1080p signal to the display whereas the upscaled DVD from the Toshiba is only 1080i. The issue with these Samsungs is that 1080i is actually processed as 540p so you are comparing a 1080p image against a 540p image...
You can read more about this 540p issue here.

http://hdguru.com/?p=17

Notice that the 4695 failed both the deinterlace and 3:2 tests.
So the 4695 fails, but the 4051 passes? And the 4692 fails, but the 4092 passes? Sorry, but that doesn't pass the common sense test, to have two different sizes of the same model TV have different results. I could understand if one was a 720p and the other was a 1080p, but that's not the case.

Actually, let me retract, somewhat, my statement about the A2-HD at 1080i vs my HTPC at 1080p. There are some actually rather significant differences. First, the A2-HD is rubbish. It's really crappy with any set that doesn't properly deinterlace - like the LN-S4695D etc.

I just ran a little test. Mission Impossible 3 looks much nicer at 1080p than at 1080i. No question. The "moire"-like lines I was getting outside the Vatican are now gone at 1080p whereas they are as clear as day at 1080i through the A2-HD.

When it comes to SD-DVD, the A2-HD has some ghosting issues on my LN-S4695D, whereas my HTPC at 1080p does NOT exhibit the ghosting to anywhere near the same degree.

I'm actually going to return my A2-HD today, because with the 360 HD-DVD drive connected to my HTPC, I have a much better HD picture. No question. It's not opinion. I could take pictures of the nasty moire to prove it, but you're going to have to take my word for it. :)

I've also got a Shuttle SN27P2 HTPC hooked up to my set, and the difference between SD-DVDs on it at 1080p and the Toshiba at 1080i is fairly negligible. If you "expect" upconverting DVDs to be close enough to Blu-ray or HD-DVD, you're really kidding yourself!

Actually, let me retract, somewhat, my statement about the A2-HD at 1080i vs my HTPC at 1080p. There are some actually rather significant differences. First, the A2-HD is rubbish. It's really crappy with any set that doesn't properly deinterlace - like the LN-S4695D etc.

I just ran a little test. Mission Impossible 3 looks much nicer at 1080p than at 1080i. No question. The "moire"-like lines I was getting outside the Vatican are now gone at 1080p whereas they are as clear as day at 1080i through the A2-HD.

When it comes to SD-DVD, the A2-HD has some ghosting issues on my LN-S4695D, whereas my HTPC at 1080p does NOT exhibit the ghosting to anywhere near the same degree.

I'm actually going to return my A2-HD today, because with the 360 HD-DVD drive connected to my HTPC, I have a much better HD picture. No question. It's not opinion. I could take pictures of the nasty moire to prove it, but you're going to have to take my word for it. :)

WilliamG,

Thanks for sharing your valuable testing.

I am a little confused by your contradictory statements. :) Am I correct in saying that you now think there is a significant improvement with passing a 1080p signal vs. a 1080i signal? If so that would confirm that our sets do not properly de-interlace 1080i signals.

What would be especially interesting is if you compare the 1080p MI:3 HD DVD vs. the MI:3 1080p SD DVD in your HTPC.

Now that you are using your HTPC rather than the Toshiba HD-A2, do you still think there is a dramatic difference between a 1080p DVD and Blu-ray?

So both your SD DVD and HD DVD players are connected to your HTPC? Are they connected via HDMI or VGA? I am curious to see what a 1080p image over VGA looks like since 1:1 pixel mapping is possible on that input. I actually had been debating between an upscaling(1080p) DVD player and the toshiba HD-A2, but after reading your second post I am definitely getting the 1080p DVD player.

Sorry for all the question, but you have seem to have all the fun toys. :)

Thanks again.

WilliamG,

Thanks for sharing your valuable testing.

I am a little confused by your contradictory statements. :) Am I correct in saying that you now think there is a significant improvement with passing a 1080p signal vs. a 1080i signal? If so that would confirm that our sets do not properly de-interlace 1080i signals.

What would be especially interesting is if you compare the 1080p MI:3 HD DVD vs. the MI:3 1080p SD DVD in your HTPC.

Now that you are using your HTPC rather than the Toshiba HD-A2, do you still think there is a dramatic difference between a 1080p DVD and Blu-ray?

So both your SD DVD and HD DVD players are connected to your HTPC? Are they connected via HDMI or VGA? I am curious to see what a 1080p image over VGA looks like since 1:1 pixel mapping is possible on that input. I actually had been debating between an upscaling(1080p) DVD player and the toshiba HD-A2, but after reading your second post I am definitely getting the 1080p DVD player.

Sorry for all the question, but you have seem to have all the fun toys. :)

Thanks again.

Sorry for the confusion. HD-DVD (1080i or otherwise) looks light-years nicer than SD-DVD at 1080p (via my HTPC), but there are some deinterlacing issue. I'm fully connected by HDMI here. So yes, Blu-ray and HD-DVD are way nicer than SD-DVD on this display, and you are correct that this TV does NOT deinterlace correctly (or at all?). That's all I'm saying. :)

my 4695D displays wonderfully with 1080p content over vga.....I LOVE IT. Yes, VGA is saturated, but, that is all I use at the moment anyhow so it is not a concern for me....just adjust the TV and watch it. I really don't see why everyone who is trying to use a htpc on these sets is so worried about overscan on hdmi and so deadset on using vga? I hooked up to the hdmi with the same PC and was quite unimpressed with the clarity.

my 4695D displays wonderfully with 1080p content over vga.....I LOVE IT. Yes, VGA is saturated, but, that is all I use at the moment anyhow so it is not a concern for me....just adjust the TV and watch it. I really don't see why everyone who is trying to use a htpc on these sets is so worried about overscan on hdmi and so deadset on using vga? I hooked up to the hdmi with the same PC and was quite unimpressed with the clarity.

1080p is indeed rather lovely. 1080i, though, is....not so lovely.

I didn't see this posted several thread posts back, but I know that someone said that the justscan firmware will be coming out within the next couple of weeks. Did the Samsug representative happen to give you a more exact time frame. The only reason I ask is that I will be building a HTPC and I currently have the 1011 version of the firmware. I can get away with doing the underscanning from the PC side of things, but I will feel much better knowing that there is a true 1:1 pixel mapping. This is one of the reasons I purchased this TV, but I guess I should have been a little more careful in reading the manual, since it says that it doesn't even except PC input through a HDMI / DVI interface.

I guess I do have one question. My HTPC will be using straight HDMI to HDMI. I am going this route because I want to push sound out as well through the device. Anyone see any problems going this route?

Thanks for the help.
Nothing new on a firmware update but my Mac Mini works great via the DVI/HDMI connection, in spite of the manual's disclaimer.

I didn't see this posted several thread posts back, but I know that someone said that the justscan firmware will be coming out within the next couple of weeks. Did the Samsug representative happen to give you a more exact time frame. The only reason I ask is that I will be building a HTPC and I currently have the 1011 version of the firmware. I can get away with doing the underscanning from the PC side of things, but I will feel much better knowing that there is a true 1:1 pixel mapping. This is one of the reasons I purchased this TV, but I guess I should have been a little more careful in reading the manual, since it says that it doesn't even except PC input through a HDMI / DVI interface.

I guess I do have one question. My HTPC will be using straight HDMI to HDMI. I am going this route because I want to push sound out as well through the device. Anyone see any problems going this route?

Thanks for the help.

What video card are you going to be using that will push sound through HDMI? The only video cards with HDMI seem to just use S/PDIF, that I've seen.

What video card are you going to be using that will push sound through HDMI? The only video cards with HDMI seem to just use S/PDIF, that I've seen.

I would have posted a link to the board but I keep getting an error message stating that I need to post 5 times before I can post an image or a link. It is MSI's NX7600GT Diamond Plus Board. I planned on going this route for now until I get a receiver.

Just going to route the digital sound to the graphics board. This can be done either externally or internally. S/PDIF is a digital signal, correct?

Thanks.

What Media Centre software are you going to use for your HTPC ?

Thanks

What Media Centre software are you going to use for your HTPC ?

Thanks

BeyondTV

well i just had a teck come out and look at my set and he called samsung and they said that the redishness backlight is normal for this set. i cant see how this can be considered normal for a high end tv. if they dont tell me that my set is defective i will be raseing heck with them

well i just had a teck come out and look at my set and he called samsung and they said that the redishness backlight is normal for this set. i cant see how this can be considered normal for a high end tv. if they dont tell me that my set is defective i will be raseing heck with them

My backlight is reddish, too, but only if I look at it from an off-axis angle of >45 degrees horizontal or a combination of >10 degrees vertical and >20 degrees horizontal. Otherwise it's a dark, even gray. I think it's just a characteristic of the TFT-LCD display. My laptop does the same thing. Are you saying that your display has a reddish glow when you're looking at it dead-on, center-axis?

When I got my TV (LN-S4096D) it was open box and they didn't have a remote for it. So they got me a different Samsung remote out of the back. There is no modal number on it, but it looks like it is a universal remote with tv guide functions (which obviously don't work on my tv). I'm reading the 4096 comes with an illuminated remote. What sort of illumination does it do? The only illumination my remote does is light up the source button when you select it.

When I got my TV (LN-S4096D) it was open box and they didn't have a remote for it. So they got me a different Samsung remote out of the back. There is no modal number on it, but it looks like it is a universal remote with tv guide functions (which obviously don't work on my tv). I'm reading the 4096 comes with an illuminated remote. What sort of illumination does it do? The only illumination my remote does is light up the source button when you select it.

If you call Samsung and let them know your new set is missing a remote, they will ship you the model specific to your set. I would not tell them your purchase was open-box, and chances are, they won't ask.

I would have posted a link to the board but I keep getting an error message stating that I need to post 5 times before I can post an image or a link. It is MSI's NX7600GT Diamond Plus Board. I planned on going this route for now until I get a receiver.

Just going to route the digital sound to the graphics board. This can be done either externally or internally. S/PDIF is a digital signal, correct?

Thanks.

I wouldn't necessarily recommend that card. I'd go with this one:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?Item=N82E16814122010

It's cheaper and absolutely silent in my cube (Shuttle SN27P2). It's also great if you ever decide to play any games, and HDMI currently is a little pointless in video cards.

I'm confused about you saying you'll get the MSI until you get a receiver.
Maybe I just don't understand what you're trying to do. :)

Greetings, I've recently purchased the LN-4695 and am curious if one can set the picture settings for each individual video input. For example, individual picture settings (sharpness, color, brightness etc) for the Component-in #1 as well as different individual settings for example Component-in #2.

I've read through the instruction manual and fussed with the remote attempting to make individual setting 'stick', but as I make settings on a specific video input those same settings appear to migrate into my other video inputs. Any assistance on storing individual video input settings appreciated.

Cheers,

I recently purchased the 4695d and am going to hook up my PC via VGA. Do I need a special VGA cable or will any cable work?

Thanks

I wouldn't necessarily recommend that card. I'd go with this one:

It's cheaper and absolutely silent in my cube (Shuttle SN27P2). It's also great if you ever decide to play any games, and HDMI currently is a little pointless in video cards.

I'm confused about you saying you'll get the MSI until you get a receiver.
Maybe I just don't understand what you're trying to do. :)

The nice thing about my card is that it doesn't require extra power from the PSU like this card. That was a selling point. I don't plan on playing any high end games on it because the major point I am trying to hit with the HTPC is it being quiet. I'll look into this card because it looks nice and having something with more kick to possibly play games is a plus.

The thing about a HTPC is you need sound to be able to watch TV. Since I don't have an external solution at the moment, I planned on using the TV speakers for the sound until I purchased an external solution, i.e. a stereo receiver. I haven't gotten all the details just quite yet, but if I exported the video as DVI to HDMI, I would still have to have stereo inputs to the TV from the HTPC so I could use the sound.

it all depends on the distance and lighting and programing. at 5-6 feet it is realey obtrusave but over 7 feet in a non pitch black room with not blacker than black programing it is not bad. but i am 5-6 feet in my bed room where i have this display and get the room pitch blach when i watch tv. i have 2 other lcd tv and 4 other monotors and 1 labtop i of the monotors is a samsung and all the rest are different brands the olny other monotor that dues it is a 4 year old nec.

make sure the card you get is hdcp complient

I received my DVI to HDMI cables today and wanted to test the HDMI inputs of this TV. Again, I have 1011 version of the firmware and I can display a 1080i signal with a 1:1 pixel mapping. Interesting, since all the controversy seems to point to this not doing a 1:1 pixel mapping. I am using a mobile ATI X800 graphics card. I was not able to do 1080p for some reason, but I check the driver date and it is at least a year old. I'm going to update and see if this changes.

EDIT: My mistake. I wasn't viewing it properly.

I am in 100% agreement. I just feel like he has nearly reached the end of the road and am trying to find him a temporary alternative. He and I have spent hours on the phone, and I have spent even more hours rigorously investigating his problems, including those in his original post, now re-edited. I wish him well! I have, indeed, reached the end of that road and am happy to report I've found a new route that I am very happy with. After 5 weeks of remorse, I took the advice of several here and re-evaluated plasma. I am happy to report that we found a panel we are truly happy with. We exchanged our Samsung 4696 for a Pioneer Elite 1140HD 50" plasma. Suffice it so say that, for us, there was simply no comparison. It was night and day. Since that places me outside of this forum, I won't elaborate more in this area. If anyone is interested, the link below should take you to the latest revision of my on-going saga to find a panel we could live with. Bottom line: After 3 weeks of living with it, we really like our 1140HD more and more each day and all the plasma issues we were afraid of turned out to be nil or minimal. Reflections are actually less of an issue than the glare we had with the 4696.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=9862616&highlight=lover#post9862616

I would like to thank everyone here for their support and helpfulness. Well, almost everyone ;-)

I received my DVI to HDMI cables today and wanted to test the HDMI inputs of this TV. Again, I have 1011 version of the firmware and I can display a 1080i signal with a 1:1 pixel mapping. Interesting, since all the controversy seems to point to this not doing a 1:1 pixel mapping. I am using a mobile ATI X800 graphics card. I was not able to do 1080p for some reason, but I check the driver date and it is at least a year old. I'm going to update and see if this changes.

No 1:1 in the US sets yet....only countries like Korea, Aussie and UK I think. Not sure when they'll get it out in the US.

No 1:1 in the US sets yet....only countries like Korea, Aussie and UK I think. Not sure when they'll get it out in the US.

Yes, I made a mistake. I wasn't viewing it properly.

Tonight I viewed DVI to HDMI content for the first time on my TV. It looks awesome. I cannot wait to get my HTPC setup, but there was one thing that I did notice that kind of bothered me. I was hoping that someone else might have seen this as well. My wallpaper has a lot of darker colors in it. When I placed a brighter color, like white, in the foreground, the darker background colors seemed to wash themselves out for a second or two and then seemed to refocus again. I was watching a full screen movie tonight and noticed this same thing. It was kind of like the bulbs in the TV were getting brighter and dimmer depending on how bright certain colors were. It is kind of hard to explain, but I was hoping someone else might have seen this as well. I don't think that this is a symptom of my graphics card, but I could be wrong. Anyone? Any ideas on how to either reduce or eliminate this problem?

Thanks.

can anyone tell me how i can check firmware version for 4096D?

thanks :)

can anyone tell me how i can check firmware version for 4096D?

thanks :)

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=9742598&&#post9742598

Does anyone know what models the JUSTSCAN firmware will be released for. I only ask since I have the 4095D model. I would assume that since the 4096D is basically the same as the 4095D, minus the cable card and a few other minor details, that this firmware update could also be applied to it as well. I was on another forum that deals with the 409(5/6)D and the 46(5/6)D models, and they are saying that the Samsung reps have no clue as to this even happening.

What process should I take to find out about firmware updates? Do I just call the tech support for Samsung? Any tips on speaking with them? How does one go about getting a firmware update?

Thanks for answering these questions. I DO want this JUSTSCAN firmware update and hope that I don't have to upgrade my TV to get this.

Does anyone know what models the JUSTSCAN firmware will be released for. I only ask since I have the 4095D model. I would assume that since the 4096D is basically the same as the 4095D, minus the cable card and a few other minor details, that this firmware update could also be applied to it as well. I was on another forum that deals with the 409(5/6)D and the 46(5/6)D models, and they are saying that the Samsung reps have no clue as to this even happening.

What process should I take to find out about firmware updates? Do I just call the tech support for Samsung? Any tips on speaking with them? How does one go about getting a firmware update?

Thanks for answering these questions. I DO want this JUSTSCAN firmware update and hope that I don't have to upgrade my TV to get this.


Nobody knows anything at this point. :)

Does anyone know what models the JUSTSCAN firmware will be released for. I only ask since I have the 4095D model. I would assume that since the 4096D is basically the same as the 4095D, minus the cable card and a few other minor details, that this firmware update could also be applied to it as well. I was on another forum that deals with the 409(5/6)D and the 46(5/6)D models, and they are saying that the Samsung reps have no clue as to this even happening.

What process should I take to find out about firmware updates? Do I just call the tech support for Samsung? Any tips on speaking with them? How does one go about getting a firmware update?

Thanks for answering these questions. I DO want this JUSTSCAN firmware update and hope that I don't have to upgrade my TV to get this.

Some people have said Samsung told them it will be out soon. All we can do is keep calling.

Does anyone know what models the JUSTSCAN firmware will be released for. I only ask since I have the 4095D model. I would assume that since the 4096D is basically the same as the 4095D, minus the cable card and a few other minor details, that this firmware update could also be applied to it as well. I was on another forum that deals with the 409(5/6)D and the 46(5/6)D models, and they are saying that the Samsung reps have no clue as to this even happening.

What process should I take to find out about firmware updates? Do I just call the tech support for Samsung? Any tips on speaking with them? How does one go about getting a firmware update?

Thanks for answering these questions. I DO want this JUSTSCAN firmware update and hope that I don't have to upgrade my TV to get this.

I have a 4095D as well and I have been speaking with Samsung level II for a few weeks now.

I called again on Thursday and actually spoke to the same person I spoke to originally about a month ago. He did not have an update, but said he would call in the next few days. :rolleyes: I will probably call again next week.

On a positive note, he said that he had just come from training on the 2007 models and the DLP that was used did in fact have the justscan option so he know knows first hand what we are asking for.

I said I was concerned that the firmware would be only be implemented on the newer models, but he thought that it would be made available to the current models(4095, 4096, 4695, 4696 and 5296) since they are going to be sold for at least another 4 months.

Anyway that's the update.

It appears that some Some people prefer connecting their HTPCs via HDMI and some people prefer connecting them via VGA.

For those of you that have tried both, did you have to change an output setting on your video card to output Video RGB(16-235) on HDMI and PC RGB(0-255) on VGA? If not, this is probably why one appears to be "washed out".

I am very curious to see the results because I have read here on AVS that Video RGB signals should be maintained from source to display, but I have also read that since LCDs started primarily as PC monitors that manufacturers haven't tweaked the processors to correctly convert video RGB to the panel's native PC RGB.

The reason I ask is that I am probably going to get a Gefen external scaler and they make two versions: one that can output HDMI and the other which can output VGA via DVI-VGA connector.

..........
The reason I ask is that I am probably going to get a Gefen external scaler and they make two versions: one that can output HDMI and the other which can output VGA via DVI-VGA connector.

I know just where you're going with this. I would really like to shoot nothing but a properly de-interlaced and scaled 1:1 1080p analog VGA signal into my panel, too. If you look at what's happening in the VP world, though, the DRM requirements on the VP manufacturers are screwing up our I/O options.

I connected a htpc that has ati x1950 pro card and I can get 1260 x 720 when i set it to 1920 x 1080p the tv says unsupported it is hooked up by hdmi to dvi cable is there anything i can do??

I connected a htpc that has ati x1950 pro card and I can get 1260 x 720 when i set it to 1920 x 1080p the tv says unsupported it is hooked up by hdmi to dvi cable is there anything i can do??

As the option name has escaped me, there was something I had to do to get the 1080i/p option to work. Look for something that has to due with DVI frequencies. Don't have it checked. That's what I had to do to get mine to work.

As the option name has escaped me, there was something I had to do to get the 1080i/p option to work. Look for something that has to due with DVI frequencies. Don't have it checked. That's what I had to do to get mine to work.
Is that on the tv or the computer?? thanks for the quick answner.

Is that on the tv or the computer?? thanks for the quick answner.

On the computer. It will be packaged with the some of the boards settings.

I am looking at buying the S4695D today and had a few questions as I have gone through this thread, but there is a 136 pages to look through.

Anyway, what issues should I know about this tv, does it need a firmware upgrade?

How is it with the Xbox 360?

Does it display 1080p over component?

How does it compare to the Sharp Aqous 46d26U?

I would appreciate any help.

1. diff between 4695 vs 4696 , which one is latest technology?

2. comparing Sharp Aqos 46 inch vs 4695 or 4696 which one has leading advantage (not about banding issue)

On the computer. It will be packaged with the some of the boards settings.
it works thanks.

1. diff between 4695 vs 4696 , which one is latest technology?

2. comparing Sharp Aqos 46 inch vs 4695 or 4696 which one has leading advantage (not about banding issue)

I too am debating between this and the Aquos...the XBR is too expensive for me..so i'm narrowing it down to these two.

I am wanting to buy this TV but found this info: Per the manual, you can only have an input (Component/HDMI/DVI) as your primary source. Secondary sources can only consist of cable or air. Example: You can set your DVD as primary source and cable as a second source but not vice versa. There is not option to "swap" the two either. [B]Therefore, you can never hear the sound of the cable or air because it can only be secondary. Remote is cheaply built compared to other LCDs.

Note I am a newbie and don't know the implications of this. I plan to use dish network and also have a set up to go from my Mac Puter via HDMI. Any help regarding the choice of this TV for my use in light of the above quote? Any help will be appreciated.

I am wanting to buy this TV but found this info: Per the manual, you can only have an input (Component/HDMI/DVI) as your primary source. Secondary sources can only consist of cable or air. Example: You can set your DVD as primary source and cable as a second source but not vice versa. There is not option to "swap" the two either. Therefore, you can never hear the sound of the cable or air because it can only be secondary. Remote is cheaply built compared to other LCDs.

Note I am a newbie and don't know the implications of this. I plan to use dish network and also have a set up to go from my Mac Puter via HDMI. Any help regarding the choice of this TV for my use in light of the above quote? Any help will be appreciated.

Not true. See p.59 of the manual:

http://downloadcenter.samsung.com/content/UM/200608/20060812103314890_BN68-01047F-00.pdf

The problem with the remote is not that it "appears" cheaply built. It is the worst single remote I have ever used in terms of usable IR signal. You can not reliably count on individual button pushes even when pointed directly at the TV. This is definitely a problem with the remote itself, since my Logitech Harmony universal remote works flawlessly every time with this TV.

Other than that, I am very happy with the TV. I'm not really a big PIP person anyway....

My backlight is reddish, too, but only if I look at it from an off-axis angle of >45 degrees horizontal or a combination of >10 degrees vertical and >20 degrees horizontal. Otherwise it's a dark, even gray. I think it's just a characteristic of the TFT-LCD display. My laptop does the same thing. Are you saying that your display has a reddish glow when you're looking at it dead-on, center-axis?

I get that too. when i have the ps3 on (during it's black background at night) I see white backlight bleed down the right n left sides of the set. anyone experience this with their ps3 on?

1. diff between 4695 vs 4696 , which one is latest technology?

2. comparing Sharp Aqos 46 inch vs 4695 or 4696 which one has leading advantage (not about banding issue)

1. cablecard

2. one's made by Samsung and the other's made by Sharp. Both have comparable PQ, price, and features. The Sharp is newer.

I get that too. when i have the ps3 on (during it's black background at night) I see white backlight bleed down the right n left sides of the set. anyone experience this with their ps3 on?


I get the same thing on the 4095

I tried doing a search and I read many of the 130+ pages of posts here, but I did not find the answer to my question.
My friend has a FIOS HD STB and he can choose the output, 720p or 1080i, which will this tv handle better?

Also, he has a Yamaha RXV-2600 which can upconvert the signal. Should the Yamaha do the work or should it be set to pass through?

Thanks

Hey, gang. This is my first time to the forum. I recently got the Samsung 4696, and I've been please with it overall. However, there is one thing I find odd about it, and I was wondering if you guys had any insights on this: The color depth is supposed to be massive, as you all know, yet I find that certain colors - skin tones, especially - seem to be poorly-defined, sometimes to the point of looking dithered.

After running the calibration from the service menu, it became clear that the machine is fine as far as color depth goes. I just can't get it to translate over to TV viewing. The problem occured with both SD and HD programming, although it was a bit more noticable with HD. I had a HD set before this that didn't seem to have this problem (Panasonic LCD projection from about 2003).

After reading a few posts about DNIe, I decided to turn it off, which did help some. Still, I feel like I might not be getting the most out of this machine. I know how to access the factory settings, but I'm not even close to understanding what all of the myriad variables are.

Since you guys are far more knowledgeable than I am about this stuff, I was wondering if any of you have any insights into adjustments I could make to enhance the picture quality - especially as to the color issue - I would be much obliged.

I get the same thing on the 4095


So have u been able to fix it?

Hey, gang. This is my first time to the forum. I recently got the Samsung 4696, and I've been please with it overall. However, there is one thing I find odd about it, and I was wondering if you guys had any insights on this: The color depth is supposed to be massive, as you all know, yet I find that certain colors - skin tones, especially - seem to be poorly-defined, sometimes to the point of looking dithered.

After running the calibration from the service menu, it became clear that the machine is fine as far as color depth goes. I just can't get it to translate over to TV viewing. The problem occured with both SD and HD programming, although it was a bit more noticable with HD. I had a HD set before this that didn't seem to have this problem (Panasonic LCD projection from about 2003).

After reading a few posts about DNIe, I decided to turn it off, which did help some. Still, I feel like I might not be getting the most out of this machine. I know how to access the factory settings, but I'm not even close to understanding what all of the myriad variables are.

Since you guys are far more knowledgeable than I am about this stuff, I was wondering if any of you have any insights into adjustments I could make to enhance the picture quality - especially as to the color issue - I would be much obliged.

I second this. I would love to know what all these settings are exactly for and how they relate to one another nad if they are input independent and mode independent. Thanks!!!

So have u been able to fix it?

Not really, it comes and goes, but actually has been less lately. I think it was the "mura" issue and has worked itself out, but I am not sure. Other than that, I am extremely pleased with the TV.

Ok, I just realized there's a thread dedicated to the kind of adjustments I asked about above. Of course, it's like 100 pages long, so it may take me a while to read through it. :)

Also, I said I had a 4696 above, but I meant a 4695.

Not true. See p.59 of the manual:

http://downloadcenter.samsung.com/content/UM/200608/20060812103314890_BN68-01047F-00.pdf

The problem with the remote is not that it "appears" cheaply built. It is the worst single remote I have ever used in terms of usable IR signal. You can not reliably count on individual button pushes even when pointed directly at the TV. This is definitely a problem with the remote itself, since my Logitech Harmony universal remote works flawlessly every time with this TV.

Other than that, I am very happy with the TV. I'm not really a big PIP person anyway....
Yea Stew, you got it! The remote IS terrible. I struggle with it every time I use it. I guess at some point this may help Logitech get some bucks outa my account and I know you and the other guys will tell me the pros and cons. I'm also too short of time to even begin to figure out the weird stuff where you seem to have to press the "TV" button and watch it light up every time you've seen the "red lights" in the middle buttons and just want the remote to wake up and do something...and even then I sometimes need to get in and out of the main button before the "source" button will respond... sheesh! --pixel

I've got what I feel like is a completely newb question, but I've been tracking down the HD channels with the QAM tuner, and I've found I can't name the digital channels. Is there any reason why?

I've been meaning to call Samsung on this issue (I have the same problem of naming digital inputs), but have not had the chance. I don't know if we've just got early versions of the software/firmware or if this is just the way it is. The manual does not seem to indicate this restriction exists.

Hi, I got a cablecard from comcast today for my 4696. They spent almost 3hrs to install it and finally succeeded. I connected comcast cable to my Cable input on the back of the TV and I also have a dish connection and connected it to Air input. Now, when I try to auto program, only Air is active. I am not able to go to Cable or Air+Cable on the auto program screen. Is it normal?

BTW, I am also experiencing that some of the channels are skipped sometimes and are showing up othertimes, as somebody pointed out before.

Could someone let me know how to save new settings in the service menu and exit. I can enter and make changes but unsure what I need to do save and exit. Powering off the set gets rid of the new settings. Thanks for your help.

Okay, I'm still serioulsy looking at the 4695. I visited it at Best Buy during lunch today and talked to one of the employees (who are often incorrect, I realize).

Anyway, he claimed that the replacement model will be coming in a month or so and will have minimal changes (no change to backlighting, etc.) but would probably see a slight price increase. He said to look for the 4695 to go on sale sometime this month.

Does anyone know any solid info on the replacement model or when it's supposed to be hitting. I have no problem getting this model even if the new one's coming soon. I just want to make sure I know what to expect from the next one as far as features and price first.

Thanks in advance!

Could someone let me know how to save new settings in the service menu and exit. I can enter and make changes but unsure what I need to do save and exit. Powering off the set gets rid of the new settings. Thanks for your help.

From Service Manual page 3-2: "4. Press the Power button to exit and store data in memory."

Perhaps they are referring to the main power button on the set, but the heading of the section is "Using the Customer Remote."

Thanks, I will give that a try. I had been using the remote's power button.

Stew,

Unfortunately, that did not work. The power button on the front of the panel does not work when in the service menu. BTW, is there a link to the service menu? Thanks.

Stew,

Unfortunately, that did not work. The power button on the front of the panel does not work when in the service menu. BTW, is there a link to the service menu? Thanks.

Unfortunately not. I had to buy mine for about $40 incl shipping here. (http://www.samsungparts.com/) What model do you have? The manual I have covers the 4095, 4096, and 4696, but not for some reason the 4695. I really don't know why that is or whether there's really any difference in the FW operations, but the cover is very specific, with pictures of each model.

From the 4095, 4096, and 4696 Service Manual:

Section 3-2 Factory Mode Adjustments

Section 3-2-2 How to Access Service Mode

*Using the Customer Remote

1. Turn the power off and set to stand-by mode.

2. Press the remote buttons in this order: POWER OFF > MUTE > 1 > 8 > 2 > POWER ON to turn the set on.

3. The set turns on and enters service mode. This may take approximately 20 seconds.

4. Press the Power button to exit and store the data in memory.

* If you fail to enter the service mode, repeat steps 1 and 2 above.

5. Initial SERVICE MODE DISPLAY State (There follows a picture of what you will see on the display. The Firmware Version are the two T-MOSxxxx-xxxx entries.)

6. Button operations within Service Menu:

Direction keys UP and DOWN = Item selection by moving the cursor.
Direction keys < and > = Data increase/decrease for the Selected Item
Source = Cycles through the active input source that are (sic) connected to the unit.

WARNING!!! Do not even enter the Calibration and Calibration Target menu options unless you know what you are doing!!! White Balance is adjusted in another section of the Service Menu. You should switch your input source to an input you never intend to use upon entering the service menu, e.g., a composite input, so that you don't accidentally recalibrate an input you really need until you know what you are doing. Quite a number have accidentally screwed up the settings on one of their inputs. Recalibration requires a "#24 Chessboard Pattern." Somebody let me know where that can be found, please....

Okay, I'm still serioulsy looking at the 4695. I visited it at Best Buy during lunch today and talked to one of the employees (who are often incorrect, I realize).

Anyway, he claimed that the replacement model will be coming in a month or so and will have minimal changes (no change to backlighting, etc.) but would probably see a slight price increase. He said to look for the 4695 to go on sale sometime this month.

Does anyone know any solid info on the replacement model or when it's supposed to be hitting. I have no problem getting this model even if the new one's coming soon. I just want to make sure I know what to expect from the next one as far as features and price first.

Thanks in advance!

i'd say the new models have more than minimal changes. they are rumored to have 1.3 hdmi (3 inputs) and they have a black level more than twice that of the 4695 (15000:1). they are also 16bit panels instead of 10 bit like the 4695.

Hi, I got a cablecard from comcast today for my 4696. They spent almost 3hrs to install it and finally succeeded. I connected comcast cable to my Cable input on the back of the TV and I also have a dish connection and connected it to Air input. Now, when I try to auto program, only Air is active. I am not able to go to Cable or Air+Cable on the auto program screen. Is it normal?

BTW, I am also experiencing that some of the channels are skipped sometimes and are showing up othertimes, as somebody pointed out before.

Hi ravipkumar, I'm not experienced with using both coax inputs (cable and air) simultaneously, but since nobody else has responded and I'm probably one of the only guys listening with a cablecard and because the carolina game hasn't started yet and because Stew gave me a kick via PM.....

Have you tried performing the autoprogram individually on each one while the other one is not screwed in? It's worth a try. The tv might retain the channel info for each individual source past the replugging. On the other hand, I remember in the early stages of this thread back last summer that a number of people complained about lack of retention for various memory things on this series.

About the skipped channels, I'm not sure I understand all the details. Are the ones skipped among ones you expect your cablecard to be unscrambling? If you haven't used a scrambled channel in a while you may sometimes have to sit on that channel a while until the cablecard does some processing and kicks in again. It's also very important to check the clock time on your sammy - it never hurts to do a manual reset on the time and them set it back to auto. If the tv clock time is off from the cable system time it can cause cablecard processing to have glitches.

If a channel, a scrambled one not in-the-clear, does not come in and continues to not come in for a long time then it could be that the CSR at the cableco has made an error and the channel is not specified in your account record. Let us know.

--pixelswim

Unfortunately not. I had to buy mine for about $40 incl shipping here. (http://www.samsungparts.com/) What model do you have? The manual I have covers the 4095, 4096, and 4696, but not for some reason the 4695. I really don't know why that is or whether there's really any difference in the FW operations, but the cover is very specific, with pictures of each model.

From the 4095, 4096, and 4696 Service Manual:

Section 3-2 Factory Mode Adjustments

Section 3-2-2 How to Access Service Mode

*Using the Customer Remote

1. Turn the power off and set to stand-by mode.

2. Press the remote buttons in this order: POWER OFF > MUTE > 1 > 8 > 2 > POWER ON to turn the set on.

3. The set turns on and enters service mode. This may take approximately 20 seconds.

4. Press the Power button to exit and store the data in memory.

* If you fail to enter the service mode, repeat steps 1 and 2 above.

5. Initial SERVICE MODE DISPLAY State (There follows a picture of what you will see on the display. The Firmware Version are the two T-MOSxxxx-xxxx entries.)

6. Button operations within Service Menu:

Direction keys UP and DOWN = Item selection by moving the cursor.
Direction keys < and > = Data increase/decrease for the Selected Item
Source = Cycles through the active input source that are (sic) connected to the unit.

WARNING!!! Do not even enter the Calibration and Calibration Target menu options unless you know what you are doing!!! White Balance is adjusted in another section of the Service Menu. You should switch your input source to an input you never intend to use upon entering the service menu, e.g., a composite input, so that you don't accidentally recalibrate an input you really need until you know what you are doing. Quite a number have accidentally screwed up the settings on one of their inputs. Recalibration requires a "#24 Chessboard Pattern." Somebody let me know where that can be found, please....

If you accidentally Calibrate you can get it back to normal by inputting the right numbers in the Calibration Target settings. Best not to mess with it however.

Anyway, he claimed that the replacement model will be coming in a month or so and will have minimal changes (no change to backlighting, etc.) but would probably see a slight price increase. He said to look for the 4695 to go on sale sometime this month.

Does anyone know any solid info on the replacement model or when it's supposed to be hitting. I have no problem getting this model even if the new one's coming soon. I just want to make sure I know what to expect from the next one as far as features and price first.

Thanks in advance!All of the LN-T models are now showing up on the Samsungusa web site. No pricing info is shown. Interestingly, none of the models appear to include a QAM tuner or cablecard support.

I don't know why the remote gets such a bad rap. I was expecting having to line it up like I'm shooting a rifle or something in order to get it to work. But it works fine for me! Granted I'm aiming directly at the bottom middle of the 4095, and I'm only sitting a few feet away, but it's never been a problem...

Unfortunately not. I had to buy mine for about $40 incl shipping here. (http://www.samsungparts.com/) What model do you have? The manual I have covers the 4095, 4096, and 4696, but not for some reason the 4695. I really don't know why that is or whether there's really any difference in the FW operations, but the cover is very specific, with pictures of each model.

From the 4095, 4096, and 4696 Service Manual:

Section 3-2 Factory Mode Adjustments

Section 3-2-2 How to Access Service Mode

*Using the Customer Remote

1. Turn the power off and set to stand-by mode.

2. Press the remote buttons in this order: POWER OFF > MUTE > 1 > 8 > 2 > POWER ON to turn the set on.

3. The set turns on and enters service mode. This may take approximately 20 seconds.

4. Press the Power button to exit and store the data in memory.

* If you fail to enter the service mode, repeat steps 1 and 2 above.

5. Initial SERVICE MODE DISPLAY State (There follows a picture of what you will see on the display. The Firmware Version are the two T-MOSxxxx-xxxx entries.)

6. Button operations within Service Menu:

Direction keys UP and DOWN = Item selection by moving the cursor.
Direction keys < and > = Data increase/decrease for the Selected Item
Source = Cycles through the active input source that are (sic) connected to the unit.

WARNING!!! Do not even enter the Calibration and Calibration Target menu options unless you know what you are doing!!! White Balance is adjusted in another section of the Service Menu. You should switch your input source to an input you never intend to use upon entering the service menu, e.g., a composite input, so that you don't accidentally recalibrate an input you really need until you know what you are doing. Quite a number have accidentally screwed up the settings on one of their inputs. Recalibration requires a "#24 Chessboard Pattern." Somebody let me know where that can be found, please....
Hi Stew,

Thanks for the info. Unfortunately, I have the 4695 and can't figure out how to save changes. I guess I will keep searching. Thanks again.

Chuck

i'd say the new models have more than minimal changes. they are rumored to have 1.3 hdmi (3 inputs) and they have a black level more than twice that of the 4695 (15000:1). they are also 16bit panels instead of 10 bit like the 4695.

All of the LN-T models are now showing up on the Samsungusa web site. No pricing info is shown. Interestingly, none of the models appear to include a QAM tuner or cablecard support.

Thanks for the info. The black level improvement sounds good, wish we could get some info on the price difference.

2. Press the remote buttons in this order: POWER OFF > MUTE > 1 > 8 > 2 > POWER ON to turn the set on.Same code as on a previous Samsung CRT I own... I didn't even think to try this!WARNING!!! Do not even enter the Calibration and Calibration Target menu options unless you know what you are doing!!! White Balance is adjusted in another section of the Service Menu. You should switch your input source to an input you never intend to use upon entering the service menu, e.g., a composite input, so that you don't accidentally recalibrate an input you really need until you know what you are doing. Quite a number have accidentally screwed up the settings on one of their inputs. Recalibration requires a "#24 Chessboard Pattern." Somebody let me know where that can be found, please....No idea where to find the chessboard pattern, but so long as the calibration text that you see on screen doesn't get rendered illegible due to setting tweaks, I'd recommend doing what I had done when playing with my CRT: take pictures of the shipped settings so you have a record of what to return to if you really gunk something up. Saved me a headache or two.

I'll have to try some settings on my 4695, see if I'm getting the same results as Chuck. I seem to think on the CRT there was something about backing out of the menu and then power cycling the set. I think I know where the old directions are that I had, I'll try and find them and report if there is anything extra. The tech manual should have the right steps tho...

[edit:] Think I remember what it was... see if the menu button will back you out of the service menus, see if you can back all the way out. I almost think the screen then displays a message to power off the unit. Power cycle and see if the settings were saved.

-Pow

Same code as on a previous Samsung CRT I own... I didn't even think to try this!No idea where to find the chessboard pattern, but so long as the calibration text that you see on screen doesn't get rendered illegible due to setting tweaks, I'd recommend doing what I had done when playing with my CRT: take pictures of the shipped settings so you have a record of what to return to if you really gunk something up. Saved me a headache or two.

I'll have to try some settings on my 4695, see if I'm getting the same results as Chuck. I seem to think on the CRT there was something about backing out of the menu and then power cycling the set. I think I know where the old directions are that I had, I'll try and find them and report if there is anything extra. The tech manual should have the right steps tho...

[edit:] Think I remember what it was... see if the menu button will back you out of the service menus, see if you can back all the way out. I almost think the screen then displays a message to power off the unit. Power cycle and see if the settings were saved.

-Pow
Hey Pow,

MENU will back you out of sub-menus, but will not take you all the way out of the main menu.

Chuck

I tried doing a search and I read many of the 130+ pages of posts here, but I did not find the answer to my question.
My friend has a FIOS HD STB and he can choose the output, 720p or 1080i, which will this tv handle better?



Hi,

I recently had FIOS installed, but I have not been able to even find where to change the output. They installed it while I was at work, and my wife never received the manual. The model # is QIP6416-2 Motorola-HD DVR. What is your friend's?

I plan on calling today for this reason and also because the signal hesitates from time to time. It is not the 4695D because it also happens on my tube tv, which is on a standard verizon STB. I never had this problem with DISH unless there was a storm.

Is anyone else experiencing similar FIOS issues? If not, what is the model # and connection. I am using HDMI.

Got mine in last night!!

Im so pumped to hear about the firmware upgrade!! I just waited 2 months to get this TV!

Just finishing up renovations and I should be turning it on in a couple of days!! wooohooo!!

Just checked my Manufacturing date: January 2007

Could it be possible mine has the lastest firmware upgrade?

Well after some delays in renovating, I finally got to use my TV last night!!

wooohoooo....

Played some XBOX with Component wires and watched some SD cable (having problems with my HD box)...... I also watched a bit of king kong to see how blacks looked or if I had an issue with clouding....


I couldn't notice any clouding at all...the blacks looked perfect....hopefully it stays like that... :)

I just wanted to add that I purchased a LN-S4095 from Besy Buy a couple of weeks ago... no clouds or any kind of backlight issue. There is hope for all of you :)


Any news on the 1:1 pixel mapping update? Will this be available for the 4x95 series as well?

I've got what I feel like is a completely newb question, but I've been tracking down the HD channels with the QAM tuner, and I've found I can't name the digital channels. Is there any reason why?Because neither of us can read the owner's manual. Page 37 says "Use this feature to assign an easy-to-remember label to analog channels...

woops

not sure if anyone noticed this, but manuals for new LN-TXX61 or 65F states they do have Justscan option... (english pg28)

I have read most of the posts and I see that the firmware issue has still not been resolved. Today I called the Samsung support center and made a complain about the 1:1 pixel mapping update and how the U.S.A is the only country that does not have this new firmware. I see the mfogarty5 has had dealings with them. Did you find anything new out yet? Also, how will people be receiving this update?

Thanks

I've been meaning to call Samsung on this issue (I have the same problem of naming digital inputs), but have not had the chance. I don't know if we've just got early versions of the software/firmware or if this is just the way it is. The manual does not seem to indicate this restriction exists.

I contacted Samsung support by email and asked them about the naming digital channels issue, and they said as far as they are aware you cannot name channels on digital inputs.

if there is a firmware update for the 1:1 pixel mapping, how do you receive it?

if this is true, i might just have to pick up a 4095d this week then.

Hi,

I recently had FIOS installed, but I have not been able to even find where to change the output. They installed it while I was at work, and my wife never received the manual. The model # is QIP6416-2 Motorola-HD DVR. What is your friend's?

I plan on calling today for this reason and also because the signal hesitates from time to time. It is not the 4695D because it also happens on my tube tv, which is on a standard verizon STB. I never had this problem with DISH unless there was a storm.

Is anyone else experiencing similar FIOS issues? If not, what is the model # and connection. I am using HDMI.

In speaking with the FIOS people, the way to change the output is to hit power and menu at the same time on the set top box (only). This will bring up the diagnostics menu, which allows you to set changes to the signal being sent.

My personal experience with FIOS over the last several weeks is that the representatives are very pleasant and eager to assist. The problem is really with their product. I experience signal lags, HD picture not as crisp, remote has to be pointed directly at the box, no ability to skip forward (FF and Rew only), menu guide has little or no descriptions, no explanation of the rating contents (difficult monitoring with an 8 yr old), several shows are different than the menu guide, and now, my audio transmission just stopped on the HD box only. They are coming out to replace that box and reinstall the opitcal connections and fiber.

I am thinking of switching to Direct TV. Does anyone have feed back on how the HD content and SD look, as well as equipment performance?

I just wanted to add that I purchased a LN-S4095 from Besy Buy a couple of weeks ago... no clouds or any kind of backlight issue. There is hope for all of you :)


Any news on the 1:1 pixel mapping update? Will this be available for the 4x95 series as well?

This is not the first time I hear that the Canadian builds are clear. I had two Mexican built panels. The first had a few clouds and the second has slight clouds. I wonder if a survey was ever made between cloud and cloudfree on origination of build?

I contacted Samsung support by email and asked them about the naming digital channels issue, and they said as far as they are aware you cannot name channels on digital inputs.See my post 4110 on the previous page. The manual states that naming is for analog channels.

is the difference significant in the 40 inch and 46inch to hand over an extra 650-700 bucks? i dont want to get into specific prices since im sure im not allowed to but differences is ok..i just think 46 seems so much bigger but 700 more is a lot to fork over if its not much of a difference ..i need some opinions

sorry if a lot of these questions have been asked but i am new to this forum and cannot search through 138 pages. i have a couple questions about the samsung 4095 vs. the 4096.

Is the 4096 worth the extra money just b/c of the cable card technology? from what i've read one way is pretty useless, but if a 2 way card is created, will the 4096 be capable to handle it?

Also, the 4096 has usb and firewire. i am ancient, but if i get the 4095, what cables would i need to hook up a laptop to it?

also is there a way to change out the silver speaker deflector on the 4095 to the clear one that is on the 4096?

also, any other differences between the 4095 and 4096 besides the cable card and usb/firewire ports?

thanks in advance

sorry if a lot of these questions have been asked but i am new to this forum and cannot search through 138 pages. i have a couple questions about the samsung 4095 vs. the 4096.

Is the 4096 worth the extra money just b/c of the cable card technology? from what i've read one way is pretty useless, but if a 2 way card is created, will the 4096 be capable to handle it?

Also, the 4096 has usb and firewire. i am ancient, but if i get the 4095, what cables would i need to hook up a laptop to it?

also is there a way to change out the silver speaker deflector on the 4095 to the clear one that is on the 4096?

also, any other differences between the 4095 and 4096 besides the cable card and usb/firewire ports?

thanks in advance

For a side-by-side comparison of the 95 and 96's, plus hotlinks to the spec sheets and Owner's Instructions click here (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=9782111&&#post9782111).

For your laptop video, you should use a high quality standard VGA monitor cable. Make sure it has a ferrite core, stray signal protection ring.

You are not the first to ask about the bezel. Currently it's not listed as a an item you can order at the retail level at Samsung Parts (http://www.samsungparts.com). I'm sure it has a part number, however it's buried in many pages of part numbers and descriptions in my service manual. I think it would be pretty easy to change if you could get one. And I'm sure you will be able to get one, since they are pretty easily broken and others will need one. I've got another project going with my local Samsung authorized repair outfit, and I'll ask them if they can get those, how much, etc.

For a detailed discussion of the utilization of the USB and firewire ports, please see the extensive documentation in the Owner's Manuals.

The CableCard will not handle 2-way cable. I don't use the CableCard, because I primarily use sat and OTA. But I sure use the Clear QAM tuner, which you can only get with the 96D CableCard models, for free HD network cable signals as a back-up to my OTA signals, which are 100 miles away.

Since they will be closing these models out in the next few months, you may find that you can get a 96D for what you used to have to pay for a 95D a few months ago. Shop around.

After returning a sharp 42 inch went for the 4095 samsung. The sharp had severe falloff when off axis from the center. The picture go lighter, less contrast, and actually too dark when on axis. Also could not get the colors close.

The samsung has much better off axis viewing with a gradual decay after 30 - 45 degrees. The colors are very close after adjusting by eye, not yet calibrated. The remote is porly designed and requires rifle aiming to get to function, maybe a slight exageration. Do not buy this set for the sound. It is fair at best.

Overall, a very good + to excellent hd picture, a good sd picture, and is an excellent set at a very good price. Picture is close to a panasonic plasma without the glare, heat, and energy consumption. With price matching, it was also a great buy at $1699 with full 30 return privileges. If you have been shopping, this is a geat set. :)

I have read about the cloudiness problems and have a question. what would be a good test to see if a set has the problem? I have the 4696 and notice that generally speaking there are no clouds but sometimes, and depending on the angle and the input chosen, there might be some clouds. As I said, it i sonly depending on the input that I choose, HDMI vs. Component, and when there is nothing being sent throught the input.

Thanks in advance

I have read about the cloudiness problems and have a question. what would be a good test to see if a set has the problem? I have the 4696 and notice that generally speaking there are no clouds but sometimes, and depending on the angle and the input chosen, there might be some clouds. As I said, it i sonly depending on the input that I choose, HDMI vs. Component, and when there is nothing being sent throught the input.

Thanks in advance

Please see the following post (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=9936642&&#post9936642).

Generally speaking, people with mura don't say, "there might be some clouds." Rather, they're jumping up and down because they just spent a small fortune for an entertainment device that has obvious white mura areas in multiple places on any dark scenes, especially space scenes, which occur in more than a few movies. For some reason, people object to seeing clouds in outer space. It just drives them absolutely crazy!

Seriously though, mura can vary set to set from barely noticeable and acceptable to most people to truly objectionable. Try watching The Decent and make up your own mind. Straight-on, not off-angle. That's a whole separate issue (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=9560103&&#post9560103).

last night got brand new one and Iam very newbie when cames to that stuff. what are the recommended settings for that lcd. mostly using as tv hooked up to satelite box via s-video cable ( not hd) there is to many options and iam very confused. any advice would be great

For a side-by-side comparison of the 95 and 96's, plus hotlinks to the spec sheets and Owner's Instructions click

For your laptop video, you should use a high quality standard VGA monitor cable. Make sure it has a ferrite core, stray signal protection ring.

You are not the first to ask about the bezel. Currently it's not listed as a an item you can order at the retail level at. I'm sure it has a part number, however it's buried in many pages of part numbers and descriptions in my service manual. I think it would be pretty easy to change if you could get one. And I'm sure you will be able to get one, since they are pretty easily broken and others will need one. I've got another project going with my local Samsung authorized repair outfit, and I'll ask them if they can get those, how much, etc.

For a detailed discussion of the utilization of the USB and firewire ports, please see the extensive documentation in the Owner's Manuals.

The CableCard will not handle 2-way cable. I don't use the CableCard, because I primarily use sat and OTA. But I sure use the Clear QAM tuner, which you can only get with the 96D CableCard models, for free HD network cable signals as a back-up to my OTA signals, which are 100 miles away.

Since they will be closing these models out in the next few months, you may find that you can get a 96D for what you used to have to pay for a 95D a few months ago. Shop around.


thanks, i really appreciate it. could you answer one more thing? so are you saying that only the 4096 will receive OTA signals? and that the 4095 can play digital only through cable?

thanks, i really appreciate it. could you answer one more thing? so are you saying that only the 4096 will receive OTA signals? and that the 4095 can play digital only through cable?

NO! I'm not saying that at all. They both have ATSC OTA digital tuners. Only the 96D's (with CableCard) have a QAM tuner for receiving digital signals on cable without a set top box. The 96D's also receive the networks (ABC, NBC, CBS, FOX, PBS) in HD on cable without even a CableCard because by law those signals must be unencrypted.

An update. I currently have comcast with a motorola cable box with dvr. Unless it is very recent firmware, latter than 12.31, it will not connect with an hdmi cable! Comcast will try to get me a box with later firmware. Is it worth the trouble to get hdmi vs component? Thanks in advance. Anyone using fios with the 4095? Seem better than comcast?

An update. I currently have comcast with a motorola cable box with dvr. Unless it is very recent firmware, latter than 12.31, it will not connect with an hdmi cable! Comcast will try to get me a box with later firmware. Is it worth the trouble to get hdmi vs component? Thanks in advance. Anyone using fios with the 4095? Seem better than comcast?


I had FIOS TV for 3 wks and told them to pick up their eqmt this week. The representatives are outstanding. The equipment is terrible. In speaking with others, I have found there is common issues. I left dish (not HD dish) which had more advanced features and the box was 2 years old. I am considering getting Dish HD or Direct TV. FWIW, I get fantastic OTA DTV. I have an antenna in my attic. These were my FIOS TV problems:

1) Signal lags on both sets (HD Flat Screen and SD CRT)
2) Remote has to be pointed directly at box to work
3) No ability to skip forward. Old Tech of FF
4) Picture not crisp, even in HD
5) No instruction manual provided
6) Difficult to switch output (720p, 1080i, etc.)
7) Menu guide has little or no descriptions
8) Not uncommon for the menu guide to display one show title, but the actual program is different
9) Audio recently became intermittant on the HD box
10) Can't view HD recorded material on SD TV.

Love the internet connection though.

Regarding JustScan, ran across this while browsing through Samsung Support LCD FAQ:

http://erms.samsungusa.com/customer/sea/jsp/faqs/faqs_view.jsp?PG_ID=3&AT_ID=81883&PROD_SUB_ID=41&PROD_ID=154

"Date 2007-03-02 06:46:00

Question Is The JustScan Firmware Update Available?

Attached File

Answer
The JustScan firmware update for Samsung LCD TVs, which provides 1:1 pixel mapping for HDMI inputs, is not yet available in the U.S.

It is available in some European markets. However, this version is designed for European TVs and will not work on TVs made for the American market.

WARNING: Do not install the JustScan firmware update from Europe on your U.S. TV. You can make your TV unworkable, and you will void your warranty."

Good news is that given enough US Demand or service request, I guess they could make it for US market.

I guess those of you in need this, keep asking..

Regarding JustScan, ran across this while browsing through Samsung Support LCD FAQ:

http://erms.samsungusa.com/customer/sea/jsp/faqs/faqs_view.jsp?PG_ID=3&AT_ID=81883&PROD_SUB_ID=41&PROD_ID=154

"Date 2007-03-02 06:46:00

Question Is The JustScan Firmware Update Available?

Attached File

Answer
The JustScan firmware update for Samsung LCD TVs, which provides 1:1 pixel mapping for HDMI inputs, is not yet available in the U.S.

It is available in some European markets. However, this version is designed for European TVs and will not work on TVs made for the American market.

WARNING: Do not install the JustScan firmware update from Europe on your U.S. TV. You can make your TV unworkable, and you will void your warranty."

Good news is that given enough US Demand or service request, I guess they could make it for US market.

I guess those of you in need this, keep asking..

They say not YET available - meaning it will be some day !

Hello everyone. Let me say the advice on this forum is second to none. Yall have unknowingly steered me in the direction to buy the 46' Sammy in January. Up until tonight I've had zero problems...BUT....Im getting this red strip on the right hand side of my screen. It keeps poping up from time to time. At first it looked like signal fade (kinda snowy). I have a HD reciever from dish conected by HDMI, xbox 360 conected by component. It doesnt matter what I do wether play a movie, game or watch satilite it is still there. I have searched this thread with no luck. Can someone please point me in the right direction.........I still have a warranty on it....thanx...KAT....

well being in the markey for a new tv, going from a 60 in jvc CRT i bought for 400 bucks used in highschool, to a 40 in lcd, after much pondering over DLP or lcd. im quite happy with the small amount of time ive had viewing some dvds on the set.

nabbed the 4096D perfect condition. could have gotten it a 100$ cheaper, but hadnt heard of the shipper before, so i passed on the savings.

it is actually sitting downstairs on the floor, plugged into a oppo DV-981HD player for a few days, while i finish putting the ent center together, which has turned into quite a task.

in april plan on retiring my x24400 machine for some HTPC work, after i built another desktop. going to be fun

btw this set has awesome black levels from what ive seen in the crappy light condtions downstairs in my house. would like to see how 720p does from cox/SA8300 on it, should be fine.

Hello everyone. Let me say the advice on this forum is second to none. Yall have unknowingly steered me in the direction to buy the 46' Sammy in January. Up until tonight I've had zero problems...BUT....Im getting this red strip on the right hand side of my screen. It keeps poping up from time to time. At first it looked like signal fade (kinda snowy). I have a HD reciever from dish conected by HDMI, xbox 360 conected by component. It doesnt matter what I do wether play a movie, game or watch satilite it is still there. I have searched this thread with no luck. Can someone please point me in the right direction.........I still have a warranty on it....thanx...KAT....


Doesn't sound good if it is there on all inputs. I'd call samsung and have them send a tech to look at it.

Doesn't sound good if it is there on all inputs. I'd call samsung and have them send a tech to look at it.
Well, just came back from BB and they pluged it in and no problems...they suggested the next time it does this to call 1800 BB and they will send a tech out to the house to fix or replace....Tv has been on for 2 hours now at the house with no problems...thats my luck

An update. I currently have comcast with a motorola cable box with dvr. Unless it is very recent firmware, latter than 12.31, it will not connect with an hdmi cable! Comcast will try to get me a box with later firmware. Is it worth the trouble to get hdmi vs component? Thanks in advance. Anyone using fios with the 4095? Seem better than comcast?
That problem also occurs in firmware 16.20. See http://en.wikibooks.org/wiki/How_to_use_a_Motorola_DVR/Firmware_and_Software

It also says a new firmware was released 2/24/07. My cable company hasn't updated the boxes yet though, so I don't know if it fixes the problem. I've been using component, and it doesn't make that big of a difference compared to DVI when DVI was working for me.

I am in desperate need of an answer to this question: Does the LN-S4095D accept 1080p through HDMI? Or only Component?

I thought that it accepted 1080p through both HDMI and Component....but after reading the FAQ section on the Samsung website...I read the following:

Note: The LN-S series LCD TVs accept 1080p only through Component jacks.
-LN-S5296D
-LN-S4696D
-LN-S4695D
-LN-S4096D
-LN-S4095D

I am assuming this is correct since it is from the Samsung website. I really need an answer to this question because if this is true, I am going to return this TV. I bought this TV with the expectation that I could view my PS3 in 1080p through HDMI. I am currently waiting to receive my PS3 to verify that 1080p is only accepted through component. If anyone knows an answer.....please respond ASAP!!!! Thanks everyone.

Yes, they accept 1080p over HDMI.

Yes, they accept 1080p over HDMI.

Thank you. I wonder why the Samsung website says that it only accepts 1080p through Component jacks.....seems like a really big mistake on their part is you ask me...

Yes, they accept 1080p over HDMI.

Weird....I just called Samsung's customer service number and the representative told me that the LN-S4095D only accepts 1080p through Component.

I really want to believe you....b/c I am really enjoying this TV thusfar. I really wish I had my PS3 right now so I could see it for myself....this will be very disappointing if it truly only accepts 1080p through component.

May I ask how you know that it accepts 1080p over HDMI? Are you using a PS3 or Bluray player with the TV over HDMI?

I just got a LN-S4096D and when I send the 1080P signal over HDMI from the computer I get underscan.. about 1cm of black pixels on each side of the screen now the build date on the TV was FEB 2007 now I was wondering if the justscan firmware is going to fix this issue?? when it comes out for the rest of us??

Weird....I just called Samsung's customer service number and the representative told me that the LN-S4095D only accepts 1080p through Component.

I really want to believe you....b/c I am really enjoying this TV thusfar. I really wish I had my PS3 right now so I could see it for myself....this will be very disappointing if it truly only accepts 1080p through component.

May I ask how you know that it accepts 1080p over HDMI? Are you using a PS3 or Bluray player with the TV over HDMI?

Does this confirm his answer for you?

I just got a LN-S4096D and when I send the 1080P signal over HDMI from the computer I get underscan.. about 1cm of black pixels on each side of the screen now the build date on the TV was FEB 2007 now I was wondering if the justscan firmware is going to fix this issue?? when it comes out for the rest of us??

Are you sure you're sending 1920 x 1080 video? You should be getting overscan, not underscan. BTW, the Justscan FW update is not just "for the rest of us." It's for all of us! It won't fix the issue for you, though. You will have an even bigger black margin, I think. Or alternatively, your set is one of the few out there erroneously adjusted to underscan, not overscan, and then yes it will fix it for you.

Are there clouding issues with this set?

Some graphics cards are set to underscan when hooked up to a tv by default. Look in the cards control panel for an option to change this.

Its an ATI x1650 pro and if I press info on the TV.. its showing 1920x1080p at 60Hertz with the under scan.. and the video card settings the same as well showing 1020x1080 at 60hertz mind you with the underscan the picture is clear as day.. now when I hook it up to the VGA (PC) input the image fits the screen.... I wonder if anyone eles that has a build date of feb 2007 or later has the under scan or over scan.. is they a way to check to see what firmware is on the TV?

...... is they a way to check to see what firmware is on the TV?

Please click here (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=9742598&&#post9742598).

turns out its an issue with the video card.. causing the under scan..

I was thinking about the Sharp and then the Samsung but the specs on the Olevia 747i with the Silicon Optix Realta Video (HQV™) processor really has me torn. I just don't know to much about Olevia brand.

I've cruised through a lot of the pages here and see that there are several "concerns" with the PIP. Right now I have my cable tv running into the cable feed (coax) and my satellite running into AV1. Is there no way that I can view both the cable and satellite side-by-side with PIP?

Thanks in advance.

I've cruised through a lot of the pages here and see that there are several "concerns" with the PIP. Right now I have my cable tv running into the cable feed (coax) and my satellite running into AV1. Is there no way that I can view both the cable and satellite side-by-side with PIP?

Thanks in advance.

There's no problem with that; I just checked it out on mine. You must use any external input as the primary input, not the cable or antenna inputs. Then when you press PIP on the remote, the secondary cable or antenna signal will appear, depending on which RF input you have selected. (Note you can create a 50:50 split screen in the OS MENU under PIP, and you can swap the audio back and forth in the OS MENU under SOUND, not under PIP.) What you can't do is start off with the cable or antenna input as your primary input. If you try to PIP from there, you will get a "Not Available" message. Also what you can't do is PIP between two external inputs. That mystifies me and a lot of others as well.

A further note: There is a table as to how all this works in the Owner's Instructions with rows and columns. The way I read it, it would seem to say you can't PIP with the HDMI inputs, but I'm doing that right now and it works fine.

I'm a relative newB who now is a proud owner of a 4096...

does anyone know how I can DELETE the antenna video source. I'm patching my cablebox via component cables, so I don't need Antenna to show up when I scan thru my different video sources (by pressing SOURCE on the remote). All the other sources are easy to delete in the INPUT menu -- just not the antenna.

anyone??? thanks

Yeah, I can answer that one, too. By design it can't be deleted. There's something in the firmware that needs the tuner to be running at all times apparently. I say this because, for example, when you do a FW upgrade they want the TV to be set to an NTSC channel. The PIP also requires the tuner to be running in one of its three modes (ATSC/NTSC/ + QAM for the 96D's). That's just the way they made it. I'm sure there's a more elaborate technical explanation, because the fact that it skips empty external inputs shows that they know that we like that feature, which unfortunately many TV's still do not have.

I was hoping to solicit some feedback on the Samsung 4695D 1080P LCD. First off, I am disgruntled Sony 46v2500 owner. I am on my 2nd TV and both have suffered from ghosting and flashlight effect (although my 2nd unit is better than the 1st). The picture on my Sony is unsatisfactory in high brightness settings when looking at dark backgrounds -- definite loss of detail in the picture is seen from the white clouding.

When shopping at BB I thought seriously about purchasing the 4695D model as I thought the finish and picture were both excellent. I know there has been some discussion of clouding on the Samsung unit -- which isn't surprising to me as both the Sony and Samsung share the same LCD screen.

I have a few questions:

1) Are there any other Sony users in this thread who have changed to the Samsung unit? If, so what has been your experience in terms of picture quality and other between the two.

2) Do the Samsung units have as much clouding as the Sony units?

3) Do the Samsung units have as much flashlighting as the Sony units?

4) Is there anything tangible that I would miss from the Sony TV in making the switch to Samsung.

5) Has anyone in this thread decided to abandon the 1080P LCD and go for a plasma Pioneer?

Thanks in advance, and I do appreciate all of your input. I have another 1-2 weeks to decide whether or not to make another exchange.

Anybody have this combination of electronic goodies? How does the picture look? Any problems? I realize this is subjective, but is the difference from a regular DVD player through component and the Oppo through doing 1080P through HDMI really a big deal? I think my DVD's look pretty sweet already, wondering if it could look way better.

Thanks,

I have a few questions:

1) Are there any other Sony users in this thread who have changed to the Samsung unit? If, so what has been your experience in terms of picture quality and other between the two.

2) Do the Samsung units have as much clouding as the Sony units?

3) Do the Samsung units have as much flashlighting as the Sony units?

4) Is there anything tangible that I would miss from the Sony TV in making the switch to Samsung.

5) Has anyone in this thread decided to abandon the 1080P LCD and go for a plasma Pioneer?

Thanks in advance, and I do appreciate all of your input. I have another 1-2 weeks to decide whether or not to make another exchange.

In the last 2.5 months I have been through 3 different LCD TV's. With hopefully one more on the way. I think I can answer most of your questions. (or give my opinion)

I too HAD a Sony (KDL-40V2500) and was very unhappy with the picture as compared to my first LCD which was a Samsung LN-S4095D. The Sony V2500 had in my mind a very bad SD picture. Even my wife said it was not even close to the Samsung. I returned the Sony (But that is a long story).

By far and away the best picture quality of the 3 LCD I have had was the Samsung. (Hands Down - not even close) BTW, the 3rd was a Toshiba 42HL196 that went back because of low hum and clouds in all four corners.

I have heard of clouding on Samsungs but mine did not have any clouds.

I have decided to go back to a Samsung LN-S4096D mainly because of PQ. That unit is on order but I have not received it yet. Just ordered yesterday.

I would not go back to a Plasma for one good reason. I asked a guy at work who had purchased 10 Plasma's for work 1 year ago and 2 had already failed. He also had many LCD's and not one had failed.

Some of the new Samsungs look very nice but I have not seen one in person yet.

In the last 2.5 months I have been through 3 different LCD TV's. With hopefully one more on the way. I think I can answer most of your questions. (or give my opinion)

I too HAD a Sony (KDL-40V2500) and was very unhappy with the picture as compared to my first LCD which was a Samsung LN-S4095D. The Sony V2500 had in my mind a very bad SD picture. Even my wife said it was not even close to the Samsung. I returned the Sony (But that is a long story).

By far and away the best picture quality of the 3 LCD I have had was the Samsung. (Hands Down - not even close) BTW, the 3rd was a Toshiba 42HL196 that went back because of low hum and clouds in all four corners.

I have heard of clouding on Samsungs but mine did not have any clouds.

I have decided to go back to a Samsung LN-S4096D mainly because of PQ. That unit is on order but I have not received it yet. Just ordered yesterday.

I would not go back to a Plasma for one good reason. I asked a guy at work who had purchased 10 Plasma's for work 1 year ago and 2 had already failed. He also had many LCD's and not one had failed.

Some of the new Samsungs look very nice but I have not seen one in person yet.


Chapelrun,

Thanks for your reply. It is interesting that several people are having difficulty with these units from multiple manufacturers. I noticed that you previously had a LN-S4095 and for some reason you returned it. Why?

Also, it appears that you have now settled on a the LN-S4096. Why not another LN-S4096. The reason I am curious is because BB only carries the LN-S4095. However, I could still return my unit for cash and go buy an LN-S4096 elsewhere.

Did you check your previous Samsung in a pitch black room with a dark background movie? That is what exacerbates the clouding and flashlight on my Sony.

Thanks

I recently bought an LNS3241D. It had a lot of problems, mainly with the PC signal. It was blurry, black letters seem to glow red obviously because it can't line up pixels 1:1. It's pretty hard on the eyes and annoying to read articles. But the bigger problem is that i'd get static around edges and certain colors. It's pretty weird and I haven't heard anybody mention it as a problem before. I wondered on this website were i did a black and white pixel test and it really shows you whats going on. Almost looks like some RF interference. Of course it's only a problem with my tv to my knowledge.

Anyway, long story short, I'm going to return it due to a long list of other little problems.

But after days of scouring the internets i've finally decided on the LN-S4095D. After all it's got that attractive 1080 native.

I guess my question is... can anybody vouch for the 4095 being a good PC monitor displaying 1:1 and having no other apparent issues when connecting VGA using a standard graphics card?

One other thing about Samsung's menu's too... on the 3241 model I have (about to return), I notice that if your in PC mode you can't adjust ANYTHING other then brightness and contrast without having to go to another source. You can't even adjust the backlight without going to another source. I want to make sure Samsung took care of that in the 4095.

I'm not using a fancy VGA cable, but the output from my Macbook Pro is decent. The picture is a bit blurry, but that's to be expected from VGA. My Powerbook puts out an awful signal though, so YMMV.

Waiting for 1 to 1 patch so I can use DVI->HDMI.

...I have a few questions:...

2) Do the Samsung units have as much clouding as the Sony units?

3) Do the Samsung units have as much flashlighting as the Sony units?

4) Is there anything tangible that I would miss from the Sony TV in making the switch to Samsung...

...Thanks in advance, and I do appreciate all of your input. I have another 1-2 weeks to decide whether or not to make another exchange.

I have owned a mura-free LN-S4696D since late December, which I received as a warranty replacement for a 2005 model in exchange for an upgrade fee, since my '05 was a 40" 768p panel. I can comment on several of your questions:

2) Theoretically the area white mura problem should be of similar incidence with both brands, since the panels are made in the same plant. I'm not sure that's actually the case, however. As you know, there are over 7,000 posts on the thread devoted to this issue re: the Sony XBR's, with many V2500 and non-US model posters reporting as well, which report a very high (>70%) incidence of area white mura. Regardless of the accuracy of that poll, I get the definite impression, having followed all these threads from the beginning, that for some reason the incidence with the Samsung models, while fairly common, is not as severe as with the Sony models. It's a totally subjective opinion on my part, but I have read a lot of posts. There are several possible explanations for this if true, but I will not speculate on what they might be.

3) "Flashlighting" (corner white mura) seems to be reported very infrequently, if at all, by Samsung owners. As you know, it is quite prevalent with the Sony models, but perhaps less frequent than the very common area white mura. Due to revelations from intrepid Sony experimenters, they now have the so-called "Viper Fix" for this problem, which involves backing off the torquing on the panel mounts. So obviously this problem appears to be primarily caused by the way Sony has designed their panel mounting system. Therefore, I don't think you have much to worry about here.

4) Sony really went overboard on the '06 XBR's in bringing previous SM options to the User Menu. I'm not sure what the V2500 menus offer by comparison, but certainly the '06 Samsungs, unlike the '07's, are fairly limited in user PQ adjustment compared to the XBR's. I actually have not missed this at all. To me the HD PQ is really excellent, and the SD is fine from 15 feet away, which is where I watch everyday TV. I can still see motion blur, but I think both panels are the same in this regard for obvious reasons. There are actually some tangible benefits of the Samsungs: one-tuner PIP and separate RF inputs for OTA and cable. Going the other way, only the '96D Samsungs have QAM tuners, not the 95's. But none of the Sony's have CableCARD at all, yet they all have QAM tuners. Very confusing...

Here's a 6) for you: Intangible benefits. Watching the Sony Uneven Backlight thread unfold has been like watching that train wreck in the beginning of The Fugitive. It just goes on and on. I really feel sorry for those guys. Most just can't believe they could be treated this badly, yet they're such Sony fanboys they just can't quit buying 'em. That 20 year old Trinitron CRT is still running, and they want nothing else. Every month brings hope for better production quality which never comes, with endless hours spent discussing serial numbers and production months, all to no avail. Really sad. I get great peace of mind knowing that Samsung CS has replaced two of my big LCD TV's since Fall of '05, no questions asked, no obfuscation.

I'm not using a fancy VGA cable, but the output from my Macbook Pro is decent. The picture is a bit blurry, but that's to be expected from VGA. My Powerbook puts out an awful signal though, so YMMV.

Waiting for 1 to 1 patch so I can use DVI->HDMI.

Does your VGA cable have Ferrite chokes, (the cylinders at each cable end), I had a Belkin cable that didn't, it made an aweful picture (ghosting among other distortion). changed to a Radio Shack one with ferrite chokes, heavier gauge and got improvement. I've seen VGA signal on my friends Sony and it razor sharp.

Let my understand you correctly... there's gonna be a patch for PC use- via HDMI tv input, assuming your computer has DVI out, and currently the tv has a compatibilty issue now which makes this not possible or not worth it? I've heard mention of possible overscan with HDMI PC connections issues. Is that what the firmware update is for?

I still think anything other than 1:1 is unacceptable. I've seen it 1:1 on an older Sony Bravia 1360x768.

Does the 4095 model have Course and Fine frequency adjustments, if so did they not remedy the blur?

Chapelrun,

Thanks for your reply. It is interesting that several people are having difficulty with these units from multiple manufacturers. I noticed that you previously had a LN-S4095 and for some reason you returned it. Why?

Also, it appears that you have now settled on a the LN-S4096. Why not another LN-S4096. The reason I am curious is because BB only carries the LN-S4095. However, I could still return my unit for cash and go buy an LN-S4096 elsewhere.

Did you check your previous Samsung in a pitch black room with a dark background movie? That is what exacerbates the clouding and flashlight on my Sony.

Thanks

I have been kicking myself for returning the SAMSUNG LN-S4095 which I really got a great deal on from Circuit City. It was an open box special and the TV had glue all over the bezel. CC sold it at the lowest price allowed by them because of the glue. My brother helped get all the glue off and the PQ of this TV was great. I returned it for 3 small reasons. (and again I wish I had kept it). First no QAM tuner, which I really wanted, the remote was not the best and the high gloss finished reflected any light that was on in the room. The LN-S4096 does have a QAM tuner and I decided that the reason you buy one of these expensive LCD's was for Picture Quality. I'm not too worried about the remote and high gloss anymore, but I do wish SAMSUNG would give us a choice.

It seems that CC and BB and other large places seem to only sell the LN-4x95 models. I have found some brick and mortar stores that have then but they are usually expensive. Crutchfield has both. So yes, you could return (if the place you bought it allows) and get the LN-S4x96D which does have QAM and CableCard.

As far as black levels, I was very happy with black levels on the SAMSUNG. The contrast ratio is listed as 6000:1 and I never had a time when I thought the movie did not look right. Sorry we only had that TV for 29 days and I think we only watched 3 or 4 movies in that time.

As far as flashlighting, and by that you mean brightness in all 4 corners. The SAMSNUNG did not have that at all. The Toshiba I had flashlighting very bad but the SAMSUNG I never saw it. Hope this helps.

Does your VGA cable have Ferrite chokes, (the cylinders at each cable end), I had a Belkin cable that didn't, it made an aweful picture (ghosting among other distortion). changed to a Radio Shack one with ferrite chokes, heavier gauge and got improvement. I've seen VGA signal on my friends Sony and it razor sharp.

Let my understand you correctly... there's gonna be a patch for PC use- via HDMI tv input, assuming your computer has DVI out, and currently the tv has a compatibilty issue now which makes this not possible or not worth it? I've heard mention of possible overscan with HDMI PC connections issues. Is that what the firmware update is for?

I still think anything other than 1:1 is unacceptable. I've seen it 1:1 on an older Sony Bravia 1360x768.

Does the 4095 model have Course and Fine frequency adjustments, if so did they not remedy the blur?

Looking at the Belkin site (I think my cable is a Belkin), I don't think I have Ferrite Chokes. It's certainly something that I will check when I get home. If my cable doesn't have the Ferrite Chokes, I will certainly buy a new cable and let you know what I find out.

Yes, the firmware update provides 1 to 1 pixel mapping. Honestly, when I bought the tv, 1 to 1 pixel mapping was one of my requirements, and I don't have a problem waiting a little bit for an update to enable 1 to 1 pixel mapping. VGA automatically does 1 to 1 pixel mapping btw, it's just the HDMI inputs that don't. If I can get the VGA working better, I might just skip the computer over HDMI inputs thing.

I don't recall seeing any options for Course and Fine adjustments on my 4096 (and the options for tuning on both the 4096 and 4095 should be the same). There is a hidden menu for doing more adjustments, except I haven't bothered messing with that. My 4096 was already tuned by Magnolia (bought the floor modal), and the picture has been so excellent I haven't felt compelled to mess with those settings.

I bought the LN-S4695D, and recieved it yesterday. I bought from a very reputable online retailer, but they have a policy of no returns on TV's over a perticular size, needless to say I am over that size. I have only played with the TV for about 2 hours last night, and did notice substatial clouds when I have a black screen. Is this something that will decrease as the tv breaks in? I havent had time to try anything else yet. My tivo is hooked up via s-video, but that is going to change this weekend, having the directv HD dvr derlivered and the new 5 lnb dish put on the house.

I hadnt read this thread til after I bought the tv, and now am wondering about the issues I have seen posted in the last 20 pages or so. I have a toshiba AX1 hd dvd player, am I correct that I read it will not display a 1080i picture correctly? It scales it to 570? well thanks for any responses.

Jeff

I bought the LN-S4695D, and recieved it yesterday. I bought from a very reputable online retailer, but they have a policy of no returns on TV's over a perticular size, needless to say I am over that size........ am I correct that I read it will not display a 1080i picture correctly?
Jeff

Your TV is defective. Is that even legal in the retailer's state to deny returns on defective merchandise? (I'm assuming you pay the shipping.)

I don't think we have a hard answer yet on the 1080i de-interlacing question with respect to the chip in the 9xD series.

Your TV is defective. Is that even legal in the retailer's state to deny returns on defective merchandise?

Ok, well I contacted the online seller, and yes they told me that was a manufacture defect, and I would have to contact samsung to handle the problem. They also told me that they would assist me, and contact them for me, but I will try 1st to contact them myself.

Alright, I bought a new Belkin PureAV VGA cable, and it has a ferret. The picture is much less glitchy, actually once you get about 4-5 feet away it looks perfect. Keep in mind this is on a Powerbook with a Radeon 9700, so it doesn't exactly have the best amount of omph to drive a 1920x1080 display over VGA. My Mac Pro's X1600 has typically been better at driving this display, but it's in repair right now.

There is still a bit of horizontal flicker in areas where there is a larger contrast. For example, the background of this forum is black, and Mac OS X's scroll bars are white, so over the scroll bars I'm seeing a bit of a flicker. Keep in mind I don't recall seeing this on my Macbook Pro, but my Powerbook has always exhibited this.

Also there is a bit of bleeding in high contrast areas involving text. For example, the yellow text in this forum on the black background bleeds a bit of red.

Alright, I bought a new Belkin PureAV VGA cable, and it has a ferret. The picture is much less glitchy, actually once you get about 4-5 feet away it looks perfect. Keep in mind this is on a Powerbook with a Radeon 9700, so it doesn't exactly have the best amount of omph to drive a 1920x1080 display over VGA. My Mac Pro's X1600 has typically been better at driving this display, but it's in repair right now.

There is still a bit of horizontal flicker in areas where there is a larger contrast. For example, the background of this forum is black, and Mac OS X's scroll bars are white, so over the scroll bars I'm seeing a bit of a flicker. Keep in mind I don't recall seeing this on my Macbook Pro, but my Powerbook has always exhibited this.

Also there is a bit of bleeding in high contrast areas involving text. For example, the yellow text in this forum on the black background bleeds a bit of red.

Your using the 4095 model and having the "flicker" problem?

I have the Samsung LN-S3241D model now... and am returning it cause the "flicker" or what I refer to as static near text and on certain colors ( it really is pixels that are blinking black momentarily all over the screen near words and certain edges thats really only noticeable from about 5 feet away and closer)

It drives me crazy and I figured I just got a bad tv maybe. Not to mention that you cant get 1:1 pixel matching on it across the entire width of the screen.

You said your yellow text bleeds red on the black background... On this 3241 my black text bleeds crimson and some green on a white background.

TIP: you can help the bleeding problem with text (on Windows anyway) by going to properties> appearence>effects> and turn text type to standard instead of "cleartext". It sharpens your text up a bit... but has no effect on webpages, just OS applications. but it's a start.

I was hoping to try the 4095 to hopefully upgrade and be gone with the prob.

I have a Compaq laptop with Intergrated graphics card... keep in mind my resolution for the 3241 model is 1360x768. Thought maybe my computer had something to do with it but I put it on my friends older model Sony Bravia and its crisp and flicker free. I did another test to verify it's definatly a prob with MY tv and put his computer (which has a standard intel graphics card) on my tv and it was still blurred and flickering.

So 3241 sucks as a monitor... I'm still probably gonna go for the 4095 and hope for the best as my primary use is a monitor.

I would go for the Sony XBR2 but I just cant justify the $2500 price tag. Amd i here clouding or Mur is a big issue with them too when your displaying solid colored backgrounds.

I wish I could make my mind up or find an affordable END all BE all tv.

Your using the 4095 model and having the "flicker" problem?

The flicker is not bad at all. From 4-5 feet away you can't even see it. Actually, strangely enough, the flicker is gone this morning. I didn't mess with anything, but it's nice it's gone.

Keep in mind that the Powerbook doesn't put out a great signal at that high of a VGA resolution anyway. I'm still waiting on my Macbook Pro to come back from repair, which sends a much better signal.

I have the Samsung LN-S3241D model now... and am returning it cause the "flicker" or what I refer to as static near text and on certain colors ( it really is pixels that are blinking black momentarily all over the screen near words and certain edges thats really only noticeable from about 5 feet away and closer)

I never had any flickering near text or on certain colors. The only place I noticed it was on high contrast areas.

You said your yellow text bleeds red on the black background... On this 3241 my black text bleeds crimson and some green on a white background.

Black text on white background isn't bleeding on mine.

I would go for the Sony XBR2 but I just cant justify the $2500 price tag. Amd i here clouding or Mur is a big issue with them too when your displaying solid colored backgrounds.

I wish I could make my mind up or find an affordable END all BE all tv.

I was considering the XBR2 but went with the Samsung because of the feature set and the reliability (didn't want to deal with potential clouding). The image quality is great. Couldn't be happier with my purchase.

SAMSUNG LN-T2342H versus SAMSUNG LN-T2353H....

Does anyone know the difference other than appearance, a wiselink input and speaker location... The 2342 is about 100 bucks cheaper... But, they are both new sets...anyone have any ideas?

I'd appreciate it....

Thanks,

Steve in Denver

(I currenly own a Ln-s4096 and love it!)

Try posting your question in the new models threads here (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=813416&page=1&pp=30) or here (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=783988&page=1&pp=30).

A Ferret? I thought that was a furry varmint?

Is it possible you mean Ferrite Bead?

A Ferret? I thought that was a furry varmint?

Is it possible you mean Ferrite Bead?

Yes, I meant a Ferrite Bead. Sorry. :) No furry varmints at the ends of my cables...

Beads VS Chokes

You decided.

Bead: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ferrite_bead

Choke: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Choke_%28electronics%29

LOL Good Times. I thought that was what you meant, and I didn't even look it up.

Good wiki on Bead vs. Choke. I assumed that a Choke was maybe a British word for Bead. My friend's Marshall amp in 1982 said 'This apparatus must be Earthed'.

As for the ferrets, I've never trusted them. My Dad had an employee who owned a couple of the varmints. One day, his kid fell on one of them and was bitten on the, uh, really bad place to be bitten.


I am told by a reliable source that 1:1 firmware could be released within the week here. Should be user-installable via USB drive.

is the filmware update only updating the 1:1? I had a sammy 4695d for 3 months and loved the great pic on all sources. Just last night noticed some major clouding on Discovery HD. ? Anyway to get rid of this?

I am close to pulling the trigger on a Samsung LN-S4096D. I plan on using a cable card with it. Will the cable card slot support 1080p when it becomes available? Also, will component cable support 1080p?

Thanks!

Check out the Olevia 747i (with Silicon-Optix HQV processor and dual combo tuners - 2 NTSC, 2 ATSC) ) forum. They seem to be having a pretty good time with this set.

LOL Good Times. I thought that was what you meant, and I didn't even look it up.

Good wiki on Bead vs. Choke. I assumed that a Choke was maybe a British word for Bead. My friend's Marshall amp in 1982 said 'This apparatus must be Earthed'.

As for the ferrets, I've never trusted them. My Dad had an employee who owned a couple of the varmints. One day, his kid fell on one of them and was bitten on the, uh, really bad place to be bitten.


I am told by a reliable source that 1:1 firmware could be released within the week here. Should be user-installable via USB drive.


Yeah I hadn't heard it ever called a bead. But thats hilarious about that marshall amp grounding. ha!

There's no problem with that; I just checked it out on mine. You must use any external input as the primary input, not the cable or antenna inputs. Then when you press PIP on the remote, the secondary cable or antenna signal will appear, depending on which RF input you have selected. (Note you can create a 50:50 split screen in the OS MENU under PIP, and you can swap the audio back and forth in the OS MENU under SOUND, not under PIP.) What you can't do is start off with the cable or antenna input as your primary input. If you try to PIP from there, you will get a "Not Available" message. Also what you can't do is PIP between two external inputs. That mystifies me and a lot of others as well.

A further note: There is a table as to how all this works in the Owner's Instructions with rows and columns. The way I read it, it would seem to say you can't PIP with the HDMI inputs, but I'm doing that right now and it works fine.

The "split screen" feature on the Mitsubishi LT46231 operates the same way. Seems like calling it "PIP" on the Samsungs is a bit of a stretch, though it does seem to be a fine set assuming you get one with a consistent backlight.

for all 4695D owners with fuzzy pics i cleaned mine up by running the cable from the wall direct to the cmocast box instead of the monster surge protecter.

This might be a weird question.....but is it normal for a new tv to have all of those stickers on the side of the tv bezel? When I see people's pics posted of their tvs I always see the energy star and like 5 other small stickers in a row on the bezel of the tv. When I got my 4095D it didn't have any of these stickers on it......I thought maybe my tv was opened and re-sealed or something b/c of the lack of these stickers. When I got the tv though, I don't remember anything looking questionable regarding the packaging and the seal on the box looked like it was a factory seal.

Mine had the stickers. Looked like NASCAR. They come right off.

My 4095, with the exception the blue Direct TV advert, didn't have any stickers on the bezel either.

My 4095, with the exception the blue Direct TV advert, didn't have any stickers on the bezel either.
Ditto here on my 4695, just the DTV ad across one corner. Probably a timing thing depending on when different sets were packed at the factory and what promotional tie-ins Samsung was running at the time?

-Pow

my samsung 4696d had no stickers on it either

my samsung 4696d had no stickers on it either

my 95D didnt either.

my 95D didnt either.


Dude, Guys, Like there is not enough to wade through on this post that we have to have discussions about stickers. Come on people... :eek: ;) :)

New to this Forum. Thanks for any help. I've had a 4095D for a little over a month viewing DirecTV HD (1080i) just fine. Just got a PS3 this weekend - connected to tv with HDMI, and I'm getting a fuzzy, snowy picture when I'm in the PS3 setup/menu screen (I think that's 1080p). The one game I have (Motor Storm) I believe is only 720p - and that looks great. I'm wondering if anyone has any thoughts - what I might try to fix this issue. Thanks.

I am told by a reliable source that 1:1 firmware could be released within the week here. Should be user-installable via USB drive.

Does that mean the LN-S4695D owners are screwed since they don't have a USB port?

Edit - Service port 2 is USB.

Edit 2 - Any updates mfogarty5? :)

What does this Toslink audio output from 4095D actually do? Does it output 5.1 audio from HDMI inputs or it's just for HD offair channels?

New to this Forum. Thanks for any help. I've had a 4095D for a little over a month viewing DirecTV HD (1080i) just fine. Just got a PS3 this weekend - connected to tv with HDMI, and I'm getting a fuzzy, snowy picture when I'm in the PS3 setup/menu screen (I think that's 1080p). The one game I have (Motor Storm) I believe is only 720p - and that looks great. I'm wondering if anyone has any thoughts - what I might try to fix this issue. Thanks.

I have a problem with mine, but it is through an Onkyo 674 at 1080p (whole 'nother thing). Have you tried running the autodetect from the PS3. I know that the TV, through, testing, can accept 480i, 480p, 540p, 720p, 1080i, and 1080p. Try the HDMI from your cable box. If you are having the same problem, it is probably the cable. With HDMI...being digital, it either works, or it doesn't.

Hope that helps.

I have a problem with mine, but it is through an Onkyo 674 at 1080p (whole 'nother thing). Have you tried running the autodetect from the PS3. I know that the TV, through, testing, can accept 480i, 480p, 540p, 720p, 1080i, and 1080p. Try the HDMI from your cable box. If you are having the same problem, it is probably the cable. With HDMI...being digital, it either works, or it doesn't.

Hope that helps.
I've got 2 hdmi cables and I've tried both cables and both hdmi ports on the tv. Same symptoms. Video on the ps3 is configured through auto-detect. Although, when I manually config the video and un-select 1080p as a viable option, it displays fine at 720p. So, clearly either the ps3 or the tv is having an issue trying to output 1080p.

Have the 4695, had Directv out to setup a new 5 lnb dish, and hook up a HD dvr, all I can say is WOW! I tweaked the heck out of this thing, have it mounted above my fire place, and this thing is simply stunning. Next is HD dvd, but that can wait a bit, have the front projector system upstairs, so that is where most of my movie watching takes place.

I've got 2 hdmi cables and I've tried both cables and both hdmi ports on the tv. Same symptoms. Video on the ps3 is configured through auto-detect. Although, when I manually config the video and un-select 1080p as a viable option, it displays fine at 720p. So, clearly either the ps3 or the tv is having an issue trying to output 1080p.

Try turning off everything except the 1080i, then give it a go, then do a manual set to 1080p and give it a go. If the game is 720p, it outputs 720p, and does not convert it to 1080p.

If that does not work, I would call Samsung. I have no problem with 1080p to the TV directly, or, at times, through my receiver...that is on a good day. (receiver issue)

Some of the boneheads recommended DINe setting off but you guys don't know how much details you're missing out. I can agree with it off for SD or blocky HD channels but I was watching Corpse Bride on HD-DVD with DINe off and you loose most of the dark details. Way to go guys.

Does that mean the LN-S4695D owners are screwed since they don't have a USB port?

Edit - Service port 2 is USB.

Edit 2 - Any updates mfogarty5? :)

Please see here (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=10024027&&#post10024027).

Please see here (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=10024027&&#post10024027).

Thanks. Do you know if they charge for a tech to come out? Would kind of stink if they do, I dumbly assumed my TV had 1:1 HDMI pixel mapping before I bought it...

What does this Toslink audio output from 4095D actually do? Does it output 5.1 audio from HDMI inputs or it's just for HD offair channels?

Please see here (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=9814075&&#post9814075).

Thanks. Do you know if they charge for a tech to come out? Would kind of stink if they do, I dumbly assumed my TV had 1:1 HDMI pixel mapping before I bought it...

I don't know, maybe not. Of course they've got to release the FW upgrade first. There have been earlier FW upgrades, e.g., to fix HDMI handshake problems with D* Model H20-100's, but I don't recall any comments about having to pay for it. That issue was more on the order of a FW defect rather than a pure FW upgrade. The lack of 1:1 pixel mapping is, however, what could be politely called a "marketing/engineering oversight."

Removed by poster.

***EDIT***
After looking a little closer, I am starting to wonder if the 4695 wouldn't be a better fit for me. I don't use cable and can't really see myself not owning a DVR which means that I don't really need a QAM or CABLEcard tuner. The USB and IEEE ports really aren't something that I need either. In my research these are the main differences between the 4695 and 4696. Can someone verify my understanding of these models?

My understanding is the forum is not intended for discussions related to prices, actual, anticipated, or otherwise, but instead is a technical forum. There are websites where you can find price by model over time on TV's that are now discontinued for reference.

Removed by poster.

***EDIT***
After looking a little closer, I am starting to wonder if the 4695 wouldn't be a better fit for me. I don't use cable and can't really see myself not owning a DVR which means that I don't really need a QAM or CABLEcard tuner. The USB and IEEE ports really aren't something that I need either. In my research these are the main differences between the 4695 and 4696. Can someone verify my understanding of these models?
I think you've got the main points. Other differences are cosmetic (silver instead of clear bezel, rectangular instead of oval base). I like having the QAM tuner, but that's just me.

Thanks. Do you know if they charge for a tech to come out? Would kind of stink if they do, I dumbly assumed my TV had 1:1 HDMI pixel mapping before I bought it...If you've got a legitimate issue, they will come out for free, assuming you're still under warranty. If they determine you need a firmware upgrade, you get it as part of that the trip. I don't know how they will handle the justscan firmware upgrade, since it seems a lot of people would like to have it, although they may not NEED it right away, and many folks may not be under warranty when it gets released (IF it gets released).

Speaking of warranties, outside of the 1 year parts and labor, and assuming I purchase this set online, what are my options for an extended warranty. I have read here about other manufacturers (Sony) offering an extended warranty regardless of where you initially purchased the set.

Just hooked up my 4696d and it looks great. One thing bugs me though. On nonHD channels I get those gray bars on the sides. (I know I can make the image fit the screen, but I don't want to do that.) I find them very annoying--every other HD tv I've seen (including the samsung dlp I have) has black bars. The grey is much more distracting than the black. Does anyone know if there is a way to make the grey bars black?
thanks

Just hooked up my 4696d and it looks great. One thing bugs me though. On nonHD channels I get those gray bars on the sides. (I know I can make the image fit the screen, but I don't want to do that.) I find them very annoying--every other HD tv I've seen (including the samsung dlp I have) has black bars. The grey is much more distracting than the black. Does anyone know if there is a way to make the grey bars black?
thanks

Should be a setting on your HD receiver to choose dark or gray bars.

Speaking of warranties, outside of the 1 year parts and labor, and assuming I purchase this set online, what are my options for an extended warranty. I have read here about other manufacturers (Sony) offering an extended warranty regardless of where you initially purchased the set.
check this site bro, forum power buys

Speaking of warranties, outside of the 1 year parts and labor, and assuming I purchase this set online, what are my options for an extended warranty. I have read here about other manufacturers (Sony) offering an extended warranty regardless of where you initially purchased the set.

Also, check with the company you end up buying from. Bought mine from DataVision and they emailed me a week later with a warranty offer (extended to 3yrs with on-site service). I thought it was a good deal and bought it. It was WAY cheaper than the same thing at BestBuy.

Anybody have this combination of electronic goodies? How does the picture look? Any problems? I realize this is subjective, but is the difference from a regular DVD player through component and the Oppo through doing 1080P through HDMI really a big deal? I think my DVD's look pretty sweet already, wondering if it could look way better.

Thanks,

I have that setup. It looks pretty good,.. bot not what I consider amazing or anything. If you are happy with what you have you should probably just stick with it. I am a broadcast engineer, so I have pretty high standards on these things though.

I know that this forum is about the 4096, but what experience do people have with the 4066? It seems to be almost exactly the same tv only heavier. Are there many other differences. I am thinking about buying one but I couldn't find a forum that discusses this set.

Is the "Justscan" feature we're all waiting for only for HDMI or will it be any digital source?

The reason I ask is because the main reason I want the upgrade is so the entire Fox logo will be seen on screen without having half of the "X" chopped off. My local station is thankfully keeping the default logo instead of putting up a hideous local one.

Will the upgrade allow 1:1 mapping of over-the-air digital channels in addition to HDMI?

Is the "Justscan" feature we're all waiting for only for HDMI or will it be any digital source?I've been under the impression that it was only for PC connections via HDMI. Maybe I'm mistaken...

Is the "Justscan" feature we're all waiting for only for HDMI or will it be any digital source?

The reason I ask is because the main reason I want the upgrade is so the entire Fox logo will be seen on screen without having half of the "X" chopped off. My local station is thankfully keeping the default logo instead of putting up a hideous local one.

Will the upgrade allow 1:1 mapping of over-the-air digital channels in addition to HDMI?

It will remove overscan for all signals...not just PC.

WHEN we get it..........

It will remove overscan for all signals...not just PC.

WHEN we get it..........

I thought it was only for HDMI, since VGA doesn't overscan currently and it doesn't fix the component overscan problems.

I wasn't aware that it overscanned via the OTA ATSC receiver though.

HDMI vs. Component Level Inputs
Approximately 8 weeks ago we purchased the Samsung LNS4695 HDTV and for the most part have been very satisfied. I initially connected the HDTV to an OTA antenna, a DISH DVR (capable of 1080i using HDMI), and a Panasonic DVD-R (upconverts to 1080i using HDMI).

Earlier this week I thought I noticed a difference in picture quality when I switched between an OTA signal and the OTA signal as passed through the DISH DVR to the HDTV using the HDMI connection. After switching a number of times between the two sources, it was apparent that the picture from the OTA antenna was much better. The OTA signal had a higher contrast level, was lower in brightness and the colors were much more vivid.

To test I connected the DISH DVR to the HDTV using the component level inputs. Switching between the OTA signal and the OTA signal as passed through the DISH DVR to the HDTV using the component level inputs showed very, very little difference.

To further test I did the same with the Panasonic DVD-R. The HDMI input looked washed out compared to the component level input.

Would like to know if anyone has noticed any difference between the HDMI input and the component level input on the Samsung HDTV??

Yesterday I called Samsung and spoke to a 2nd level technician. All he could offer is some people prefer the HDMI input, some prefer the component level input. Some help?? He did offer the phone number of their local service facility in Davenport, but, cautioned me if I schedule a service call and they find nothing amiss, I would be liable for the cost of the service call.

Thus a 2nd question. Is there anything in the service menus that allows adjustment of the HDMI contrast, brightness, sharpness and color levels independent of those accessible from the main menu?? It's not feasible to adjust all of the controls if one switches between a component level and an HDMI source.

Thanks for taking the time to read, look forward to any replies.

It is possible you have modified the "Picture Mode" (Vivid, Standard, Custom, Movie) for that input. It's very easy to do. Hook the Dish rx back up to the original HDMI. While watching, push the "P. Mode" button on the remote. Now do the same with an OTA signal. Each input independently remembers it's last state picture mode. You can set them up to all have the same settings, so that even if you actually change the picture mode accidentally, the picture settings don't change.

I personally prefer the component inputs on my D* H20-600 sat rx. I find the component input to be a little less "edgy" and the colors more natural. The HDMI inputs are not necessarily superior (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=9761973&&#post9761973) to the component inputs. The actual R,G, B drive settings for each input are located in the SM, but I wouldn't mess with them unless you have ISF type calibration equipment and know what you're doing or know a calibrator who does.

I thought it was only for HDMI, since VGA doesn't overscan currently and it doesn't fix the component overscan problems.

I wasn't aware that it overscanned via the OTA ATSC receiver though.

Yeah. The Fox logo can be seen entirely when in PIP mode, but when you view it full-screen, it's chopped off.

Can anyone tell me why there is such a price difference between these two? OK Sony XBR has some nice look but 46" price is diff is huge.

I also mainly want to know how is the off angle viewing for this set with SD? Is anyone noticing washout? I had a sharp 42d62u and it was horrible during hockey games so I returned it. Now cannot decide between the sammy and sony.

Any comments would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks

It will remove overscan for all signals...not just PC.

WHEN we get it..........

nope, i have justscan on my new lnt4665f. it won't let me turn it on for component and there is a little overscan on component connnections.

ok dumb question... im drunk and im lazy ;)

Does any have the xbox 360 and the vga cable hooked up to this tv?

wondreing if its worth it etc...

I love my 46" my gf bought it for me for xmas and i f'ing love it... beautiful picture..and my 360 looks amazing on it hooked up to component...but i heard the 360 will upconvert dvds if you have the vga cable...

let me know...

its friday grab some jack and coke if you have it

Can anyone tell me why there is such a price difference between these two? OK Sony XBR has some nice look but 46" price is diff is huge.

I also mainly want to know how is the off angle viewing for this set with SD? Is anyone noticing washout? I had a sharp 42d62u and it was horrible during hockey games so I returned it. Now cannot decide between the sammy and sony.

Any comments would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks

I had 4 LCD's in 3 months (Long Story)

SAMSUNG LN-S4095D
Sony KDL-40V2500
Toshiba 42HL196
SAMSUNG LN-S4096D

To me, by far the best Picture Quality was on both the SAMSUNG's. The processor on an LCD is very important. The Sony KDL-40V2500 uses the Bravia Engine where the TV you are looking at uses the Bravia Pro Engine. What I found on the Sony was the SD picture quality was fairly poor. I have not researched the XBR Bravia Pro engine but I would definitely check SD PQ before purchasing.

The reason I went back to the SAMSUNG was Picture Quality, which was very much better to the Sony in both HD and especially in SD.

Off angle viewing on my SAMSUNG in SD is very good. Not as good as in HD but watched a show in SD last night at about 45 degrees off center with no issues. No washout was noted.

My advise is to go with either the SAMSUNG LN-S4xxx or the newer LN-T4xxx.

I have a 4095 which is using a comcast box and component cables. The picture is excellent. The settings have surprised me. I do photography for fun and some work and am looking for not too bright or contrasty, natural color and real levels of saturation. No Mickey Mouse images. Good detail in shadows and few to no blown highlights. Well, here are the settings:

Energy Savings medium
contrast 62
brightness 45
color 42
tint 50
color tone warm1

Go figure ;)

ok dumb question... im drunk and im lazy ;)

Does any have the xbox 360 and the vga cable hooked up to this tv?

wondreing if its worth it etc...

I love my 46" my gf bought it for me for xmas and i f'ing love it... beautiful picture..and my 360 looks amazing on it hooked up to component...but i heard the 360 will upconvert dvds if you have the vga cable...

let me know...

its friday grab some jack and coke if you have it

I have the LN-S4695D with an Xbox 360 and the VGA cable. Some people say the colors are muddier with the VGA, I personally don't notice it. I bought it to upconvert DVDs and to play HD-DVDs at 1080p, works great. I think it's really silly you can't upconvert over components, they are analog just like VGA.

I have the LN-S4695D with an Xbox 360 and the VGA cable. Some people say the colors are muddier with the VGA, I personally don't notice it. I bought it to upconvert DVDs and to play HD-DVDs at 1080p, works great. I think it's really silly you can't upconvert over components, they are analog just like VGA.

thanks man... i just picked them up today...it looks fine to me...im not really noticing a difference in my games but i still ahvent played any dvds in it to see how they look...

This may sound like a silly question, but does anyone know if there is a way to stop an input from showing up when you cycle sources? The TV seems to only show the sources that actually have something hooked up to it when you hit the source button, but I don't have anything hooked up to my cable/antenna coaxial port and it still shows up whenever I hit the source button (the static/snow image).

Just got my new LN-T 4665 SAMSUNG LCD !!!!!!!!!!!!
I AM SO GLAD AND SO IMPRESSED OF THIS TV,
THIS TV will definitely beats Sharp and Sony xbrs!!! no banding, no cloud at all!! totally worth my money!

Just got my new LN-T 4665 SAMSUNG LCD !!!!!!!!!!!!
I AM SO GLAD AND SO IMPRESSED OF THIS TV,
THIS TV will definitely beats Sharp and Sony xbrs!!! no banding, no cloud at all!! totally worth my money!

And where/how did you get this?

from Bestbuy~
ok , it's like this

one month ago, i got Sharp 46inch , horrible banding, yah i know, so threw it back in two weeks ago exchange another one,
very sorry for sharp, sharp making horrrible management decision on LCD production, this one is another set of sad story,
so what am i suppose to do? i felt i was in middle of desert or something, why? ok, if i get xbr2, horrible clouding issue, if i get 4696 or 4695, bad bad 1:1 mapping,

so i choose to check bb site , NICE! THEY HAVE 4665!! what? 3032!? imma jump on this deal!!

so last night, me went over and i actually questioned a lot things to this sales guy including where they import these from? etc.. (to make myself more professional than this young school boy), at the end, i told him imma get this no matter what, and since i been exchanging twice the sharp, i still trust bb, means, i am a good, valuble customer, so any discount?
he looks like a freaking noob, went to manager office, came back, "yah i can let you go with 15%",



end of moive. Brought my baby home, open box, WOW! NICE GLOSSY FINISH! what else can i say? sit on sofa enjoy new Samsung LNT-4665 with a Newcastle beer,

Bravo! Superman gonna fly in my house? what!? Shaq gonna dunk on me? no ! let me run!~ jump shot baby!~
yah yah, this is what this TV made me to, it's so insane realistic, thank god for 10 bit 15000:1 , im so glad this TV making my life easier,

bye bye sharp, bye bye clouding and banding,~!! :p

from Bestbuy~
ok , it's like this

one month ago, i got Sharp 46inch , horrible banding, yah i know, so threw it back in two weeks ago exchange another one,
very sorry for sharp, sharp making horrrible management decision on LCD production, this one is another set of sad story,
so what am i suppose to do? i felt i was in middle of desert or something, why? ok, if i get xbr2, horrible clouding issue, if i get 4696 or 4695, bad bad 1:1 mapping,

so i choose to check bb site , NICE! THEY HAVE 4665!! what? 3032!? imma jump on this deal!!

so last night, me went over and i actually questioned a lot things to this sales guy including where they import these from? etc.. (to make myself more professional than this young school boy), at the end, i told him imma get this no matter what, and since i been exchanging twice the sharp, i still trust bb, means, i am a good, valuble customer, so any discount?
he looks like a freaking noob, went to manager office, came back, "yah i can let you go with 15%",



end of moive. Brought my baby home, open box, WOW! NICE GLOSSY FINISH! what else can i say? sit on sofa enjoy new Samsung LNT-4665 with a Newcastle beer,

Bravo! Superman gonna fly in my house? what!? Shaq gonna dunk on me? no ! let me run!~ jump shot baby!~
yah yah, this is what this TV made me to, it's so insane realistic, thank god for 10 bit 15000:1 , im so glad this TV making my life easier,

bye bye sharp, bye bye clouding and banding,~!! :p


You LUcky Bastard, LOL

Im stuck with a 4596D that I got in January with terriable clouding issues. I wish BB would let me exchange it witht he newer model.

let me know...

its friday grab some jack and coke if you have it


man, reading this post on monday morning gets me down...

Glad to be back on the site first of all (seems like my last post was somewhere here on page 50 - glad to see so many more people have gotten the TV). Much to my dismay though, the 95/96 series which seems so great to me now so crappy in comparison to what's out there now (4661 at BB for less then what the 95 cost me when it came out)/going to be out there (71/81 series with 50000:1-100000:1 CR).

Now for what may be of some use: I contacted Samsung about the JustScan update, and they said that they would give me a follow up email in 48 hours, but said that it was not available in the US yet.

So will still have 6000:1 CR and only 2 HDMI non-1.3 ports, with average speakers and piano black (which I like but many don't) for a cost a year ago that is more than the new sets, but finally we may get 1:1 pixel mapping over HDMI! Ah the love of being an early adopter.

I Emailed Samsung about it last week and just got this reply:

"Thank you for contacting us.

At this time we do not have a firmware upgrade for this unit."

Not very helpful since I asked them when they would have Justscan support.

Sorry, new to this thread...Can anyone tell me what's so great about the new Samsung LN-T4061F ?

Is this new one a NON-CLOUDY tv? How is this one an improvement?

Any first hand experience with it?

Sorry, new to this thread...Can anyone tell me what's so great about the new Samsung LN-T4061F ?

Try the Samsung LN-T Owner's Thread (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=820218&highlight=samsung+lnt)

This is an awesome TV! I love the quality and sharpness. I recommend this to everyone! The only con is the price. It is tough sometimes to justify spending 2-3x other TVs for a little better quality. If you have the $$$ this is a good place to spend it :)

i got my seccind tv the one with the ovil base and it is less clody but still has some in the cornors and not all the way across the top and botom of the screen but the new one is scratched so i am debateing on calling sammy and trying a 3 rd one and take my luck

Can soembody please set me straight as how the Best Buy policy works when you purchase the warrenty. I bought a 4596D in late January. The past few weeks I have noticed terriable clouding and mura issues. Its making my TV unwatchable at night. Beofre I call Samsung and deal with them and the horror stories I have read , does BB let me exchange it after the 30 days?

Can soembody please set me straight as how the Best Buy policy works when you purchase the warrenty. I bought a 4596D in late January. The past few weeks I have noticed terriable clouding and mura issues. Its making my TV unwatchable at night. Beofre I call Samsung and deal with them and the horror stories I have read , does BB let me exchange it after the 30 days?

Not generally, but talking to the Sales Manager might allow for that option. If you take it to BB and the TV is still under warranty, they just send it to the Dealer directly for you. If it is out of warranty, they go to their shop. If you have the same problem 3 times, and they cannot fix it, then they replace with the same or comparable model, but that should be down the road. First bet is to go in with a willingness to negotiate and talk directly to the sales manager.

Not generally, but talking to the Sales Manager might allow for that option. If you take it to BB and the TV is still under warranty, they just send it to the Dealer directly for you. If it is out of warranty, they go to their shop. If you have the same problem 3 times, and they cannot fix it, then they replace with the same or comparable model, but that should be down the road. First bet is to go in with a willingness to negotiate and talk directly to the sales manager.


great thanks for the reply. I'm heading out of town till MOnday. I will spak with BB on Monday and you all know what they say. The manager at BB is the one who sold me on the 4596d even telling me all the clouding issues from the fall were fixed .

So the only one that works is VGA, Overscan is still a problem for Components and HDMI?

Now for what may be of some use: I contacted Samsung about the JustScan update, and they said that they would give me a follow up email in 48 hours, but said that it was not available in the US yet.Well, I have yet to get a response (they said within 48 hours). I sent the email 4 days ago so now I'm going to call them instead.

EDIT!!!!!!!
I just called Samsung and they connected me to level 2 support. The guy said that there will NEVER be a firmware update in the US for the 95 series (probably the same for the 96 then as well). However, that's only because there is no firmware that will make it work as it is a hardware issue, not a software one like with the European models. So instead, he said that he could send over a technician for free to replace the circuit board which would fix the issue!

Hence, the reason I think that the firmware update came out in Europe instead of in the US as well is due in part to how the TVs in Euro were released after the US models. In that time, Samsung may have changed the boards in the TVs so they were capable of being upgraded by firmware instead of needing to be completely replaced.

Anyway, the point is: CALL AND YOU CAN THE OVERSCAN/1:1 PIXEL MAPPING FIXED!

When is the technician coming? I'm anxious to see if this will actually fix it. I must admit I'm not holding my breath though. Most likely the tech will show up and say "it is working within specifications" and leave.

Please keep us posted, as I just bought the 4096 a little over a month ago and can't tolerate that it has more overscan than my tube TV (which I was able to adjust myself).

What about mine its built in the US and it has a build date of feb 2007??

I just called Samsung and they connected me to level 2 support. The guy said that there will NEVER be a firmware update in the US for the 95 series (probably the same for the 96 then as well). However, that's only because there is no firmware that will make it work as it is a hardware issue, not a software one like with the European models. So instead, he said that he could send over a technician for free to replace the circuit board which would fix the issue!

That is kinda sorta not cool. Regardless, I'll probably get my circuit board replaced.

Wait a second. The 4095 doesn't have a USB port, right? This could be why it won't get the firmware update...

Any idea if this would be possible with the 3296d model? Or just the bigger ones?

The 4095 does have a USB port that can be used for firmware upgrades.

Hey everyone. Yes the 95 series TVs have a USB port for service, just not for multimedia features like the 96 series.

I'll keep you guys posted, but I wanted to think about it first before I went ahead. They guy gave me a work number so when I call back they would know exactly what I called about before. I haven't made a decision yet, but some people have already had it done, however. Click here for their experiences:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=722482&page=53&pp=30

I had FIOS TV for 3 wks and told them to pick up their eqmt this week. The representatives are outstanding. The equipment is terrible. In speaking with others, I have found there is common issues. I left dish (not HD dish) which had more advanced features and the box was 2 years old. I am considering getting Dish HD or Direct TV. FWIW, I get fantastic OTA DTV. I have an antenna in my attic. These were my FIOS TV problems: [stuff deleted].

Did you look into using an HD Tivo (AKA series 3) with cablecards?

My clouding has substantially subsided with use. I don't even see it anymore on black screens, unless i turn off the source and look for it, and even then, it's barely noticable. I posted in this thread some time ago, with the issue.

So for some, it's worth waiting a couple months if you can. Mine seems to have "worn in" for the lack of a better word.

zv

Guys, the update is real. My local authorized repair shop has ordered the part. You have to tell the Level 1 rep at 1-800-SAMSUNG that there is a FW upgrade for your TV that you need to be installed and that the Level 2 people are aware of this and to please transfer you. They will then assign you a Transaction Number and xfer you to L2. You MAY get a L2 person who is not aware of this, because their internal computer pages covering FW updates was not itself updated as of Friday when I called. This can only last so long at L2, I don't know how many of them there are, but the word will get around soon enough. Mine called the "engineers," who confirmed it. There is a part number for each of the LN-Sxx9xD's. L2 faxes your local shop, whoever that is. Then you call the local shop to schedule an appointment.

The Justcan feature affects only the HDMI inputs, nothing else. VGA is already 1:1. Component and ATSC/NTSC/QAM (96 series) will continue to have overscan.

Why would you want this? Technically, an overscanned picture has been scaled to a small degree. Unnecessary scaling causes pixel overlap which appears as blurring. My 4696 is painfully sharp already, but for exacting applications as a computer monitor, you should be able to see an improvement in close-up fine detail. I was told that the update will not be by USB flash drive, but instead a board must be replaced. I have the SM, and there's really only two boards, the main board and the input board. I don't know which one they are replacing. Frankly, I would much rather them have updated the crappy de-interlacing chip if they're going to replace the main board. Now there's some real blur. BTW, the name of their de-interlacing/scaling chip is the "Albatross." Now there's a real winning idea....

We should, however, be grateful that Samsung finally came through on this, because this will be at some not inconsiderable expense to them to add a feature not included in the original spec's. Another sign of a good outfit. You could almost say, the REAL "Like. No. Other"

Should I be worried that I have these bright spots around the corners of my tv when the display is black?

Guys, the update is real. My local authorized repair shop has ordered the part. You have to tell the Level 1 rep at 1-800-SAMSUNG that there is a FW upgrade for your TV that you need to be installed and that the Level 2 people are aware of this and to please transfer you. They will then assign you a Transaction Number and xfer you to L2. You MAY get a L2 person who is not aware of this, because their internal computer pages covering FW updates was not itself updated as of Friday when I called. This can only last so long at L2, I don't know how many of them there are, but the word will get around soon enough. Mine called the "engineers," who confirmed it. There is a part number for each of the LN-Sxx9xD's. L2 faxes your local shop, whoever that is. Then you call the local shop to schedule an appointment.

The Justcan feature affects only the HDMI inputs, nothing else. VGA is already 1:1. Component and ATSC/NTSC/QAM (96 series) will continue to have overscan.

Why would you want this? Technically, an overscanned picture has been scaled to a small degree. Unnecessary scaling causes pixel overlap which appears as blurring. My 4696 is painfully sharp already, but for exacting applications as a computer monitor, you should be able to see an improvement in close-up fine detail. I was told that the update will not be by USB flash drive, but instead a board must be replaced. I have the SM, and there's really only two boards, the main board and the input board. I don't know which one they are replacing. Frankly, I would much rather them have updated the crappy de-interlacing chip if they're going to replace the main board. Now there's some real blur. BTW, the name of their de-interlacing/scaling chip is the "Albatross." Now there's a real winning idea....

We should, however, be grateful that Samsung finally came through on this, because this will be at some not inconsiderable expense to them to add a feature not included in the original spec's. Another sign of a good outfit. You could almost say, the REAL "Like. No. Other"The LN-S4092D has an update available?


I just checked into this thread today cuz I was lookin at these LCD's....whats the consensus?

Great picture quality? Any lag/ghosting/blurring while gaming?

The LN-S4092D has an update available?
Sorry, I forgot about that model. Believe the FW only applies to the 1080p models. It's not impossible, however.....

Great picture quality? Any lag/ghosting/blurring while gaming?
I'm really impressed with the picture quality of my 4695. I was playing a bunch of Halo 2 on it this weekend (original Xbox w/component cables) and can't say I noticed any ill effects. I do have some corner highlights and a minor bit of clouding but they are really only noticeable on pure black images, most of the time I forget that they are there.

-Pow