Samsung 720p Owner's Thread --- HLSxx66W/HLSxx86W DLP Models [Text View] - Page 3

OuttaCtrl

09-04-06, 03:13 AM

thx ctrl, i was thinking about a refurbs in hopes that the bugs would be worked out of a new one cause i'd rather not deal with samsung tech and weeks of downtime. right now i can get a refurb or a new one at the same price delivered so im in a dilemma.

No prob bit I'd still say if the refurb unit came from the factory they have been refreshed and retest more times than a new one. So you make actually get a better unit. It is the difference between a mass produce test sample or a retest of a single unit to assure a working product. But you really have to understand what refurbished means. Sorry to ramble on but I bought a $1900 (brick and mortar sale price) Harman Kardon HT for a total of $550! And when I got it it was absolutely fresh, no scratch, dings, or fingerprints on the unit and speakers. So you can really get a bargain in a refurb unit but as I said before you gotta do the homework.

tm3

09-04-06, 02:19 PM

have you HLSxx86W owners compared your sets to the HLSxx87W models? how much, if any, difference in PQ are you able to see? i'm trying to decide if the 1080p set is worth $600-700 more money.

thanks

nymkin

09-04-06, 02:34 PM

Thanks for your inquiry. Samsung refurbishes hundreds of TV's at a time. The TV's then appear and perform as new. They do not provide us with individual product histories. Samsung does provide each TV with a 90 day in-home parts/labor warranty. << thats the reply i got from second act, :rolleyes:

Hydra_Hobo

09-04-06, 02:49 PM

have you HLSxx86W owners compared your sets to the HLSxx87W models? how much, if any, difference in PQ are you able to see? i'm trying to decide if the 1080p set is worth $600-700 more money.

thanks

I would say it is not worth it. Mine looks amazing, and the fact taht there is little to know 1080p material, I would say go with the 86. However, if you are a big blueray/hddvd buff, go witht eh 1080p simply because u will have alot of 1080p material. 1080p is better, but not 700$ better.

Feralhog

09-04-06, 02:57 PM

Well i am not sure what happened... But the picture sure improved!! Do they have to warm up?

Takes mine maybe a minute to "warm up". That's about how long the bulb takes to get to full brightness.

Oops.......stumbled into the 720 forum. Mine's a 1080.....sorry...........

toenail

09-04-06, 07:27 PM

I'm curious about hls-5086. Read through many pages of this thread and am left with a few questions.

1) Is "black grass" limited to 42 inch sets or are there documented cases of this exsisting with other sizes/models of Samsung DLP?

2) Any other major gripes? Color accuracy, black level, grayscale temp, digital artifacts etc?

Thanks in advance

OuttaCtrl

09-04-06, 09:19 PM

jacob_coulter

09-04-06, 11:25 PM

I just purchased a Samsung HL-S4266W, and it appears to NOT have a HD tuner, even though at the Best Buy, it states it does on the product tag.

Am I mistaken, or do some of these models not have an HD tuner built in? I have some HD channels over the coaxial Cox Cable, that are on the "decimal channels" ie 96.1 etc. But everytime i try to access these channels it will not allow it.

Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks again

Kevinw

09-05-06, 10:52 AM

have you HLSxx86W owners compared your sets to the HLSxx87W models? how much, if any, difference in PQ are you able to see? i'm trying to decide if the 1080p set is worth $600-700 more money.

thanks
I used the difference to pay for a stand and the sales taxes plus keep my wife from blowing a gasket ;)
I researched both. As others have said if you jumping onto the High Def DVD players it may be worth it. For gaming and the rest. I saw almost no improvement
to warrant the price difference.

ferrisg

09-05-06, 11:16 AM

jacob_coulter

09-05-06, 01:03 PM

landale

09-05-06, 01:08 PM

Thanks ferrisg for the info, I appreciate it!

I thought I was just couldn't figure out how to work it. I think I'm going to take it back to Best Buy, a big reason why I bought the set was so I could watch HD through cable. I'm also not too happy about the "black grass" effect that I have on my set.

You might want to check with your cable company or around the web which HD channels if any are unencrypted. A QAM tuner will only tune unecrypted channels and cable companies will often have most of these channels encrypted so the feature might not be as useful as you'd like it to be.

GrandWazoo

09-05-06, 01:21 PM

I just received my 46" HL-S4666 and am unable to view DVDs via HDMI - the Samsung DVD-VR325 player reports "Unable to play disc - no HDCP". I am slightly baffled - anyone else have this problem or any other suggestions?

Stimpy3

09-05-06, 03:29 PM

Thanks ferrisg for the info, I appreciate it!

I thought I was just couldn't figure out how to work it. I think I'm going to take it back to Best Buy, a big reason why I bought the set was so I could watch HD through cable. I'm also not too happy about the "black grass" effect that I have on my set.

If you are going to watch cable HD channels with the cable connected directly to the TV you will need a model with a cable card slot. With Samsung that would be the HL-Sxx88W/78W series.

I just purchased the HL-S4266W for my niece and installed it this past weekend. The image on it looked fantastic. By that I mean no "black grass". This was an August build date so they may have resolved the black grass issue. :rolleyes:

Kevinw

09-05-06, 07:01 PM

Well I am in the club, HHGregg delivered my HLS-5086 today. Incredible TV, Lowered the contrast and brightness. The 360 look very good also. Best 1398 I have ever spent.

finsmaniac02

09-06-06, 12:28 PM

If you are going to watch cable HD channels with the cable connected directly to the TV you will need a model with a cable card slot. With Samsung that would be the HL-Sxx88W/78W series.

I just purchased the HL-S4266W for my niece and installed it this past weekend. The image on it looked fantastic. By that I mean no "black grass". This was an August build date so they may have resolved the black grass issue. :rolleyes:

i might look into getting a 42 inch here in the next couple days, this comment has made me very hopeful that i can save a couple hundred dollars (and not have image quality issues), and since im only gonna be 6-10 feet from the tv, i didnt really think i wanted 46 inch... plus bestbuy doesnt carry the 46 inch ones in store, and i would have to order it (I HAVE to get it from them because i am getting money back from a service plan :o( ). If anyone could second this opinion that black grass may be gone, i would love it!

p.s. - if anyone could tell me where i can find the build date, i would be happy (is it on the box?)

jjdurrant

09-06-06, 01:54 PM

I have had my HL-S5686 a few days now and I am VERY PLEASED. I heard a rumor that OTA HD channels are better quality than my Comcast HD channels due to the fact that th Comcast channels are compressed. Is this true? I find that hard to believe considering how nice the Comcast channels are!

And if this is true, what antenna should I get?

RichSheikh

09-06-06, 02:25 PM

>i might look into getting a 42 inch here in the next couple days, this comment has made me very hopeful that i can save a couple hundred dollars (and not have image quality issues), and since im only gonna be 6-10 feet from the tv, i didnt really think i wanted 46 inch... plus bestbuy doesnt carry the 46 inch ones in store, and i would have to order it (I HAVE to get it from them because i am getting money back from a service plan ( ). If anyone could second this opinion that black grass may be gone, i would love it!<

We thought the same thing about the 42 inc since we're also sitting 6-10 feet away. We traded it up to the 46 inc and man are we glad we did. The 46 inc is NOT to big for someone sitting 6-10. As a matter of fact it looks much better then the 42 inc because the blacks are blacker and the picture is better. We bought it from Best Buy and although they don't have the 46 inc in the store they do have them in the wherehouse. We go ours within 2 days.

GET THE S4666W. You will be much more happy.

shark1987

09-06-06, 03:25 PM

I posted this a couple days ago and it still happens every once in a while. If I leave the TV on for a while(over an hour) sometimes the speakers will stop working all of the sudden. I can try turning it off and on but they still won't work. But if I let it set for about 5 minutes they will work again. Anyone else had this problem.

OuttaCtrl

09-06-06, 03:39 PM

JustinSane

09-07-06, 11:59 AM

I have a question for anyone with the HL-S4666W. Do you game? If you do, do you notice any lag with 480p or 720p games? I am trying to decide if I want to go with this DLP tv or just get a Westinghouse LCD. Any info is greatly appreciated.

TransAmLS1

09-07-06, 04:01 PM

Net4surfer

09-07-06, 04:17 PM

dsl_steve

09-07-06, 04:28 PM

I just got my Sammy HLS-5086 in today and I am pretty happy. One question I have is for my Hi-def Comcast cable box. I can set it to put out either 720p or 1080i. So which one should I choose and what's the difference. Also, I'll be honest, I am not 100% impressed with the quality so far. I just can't get a setting to look great. I tried Eliab's setting:

Digital NR - Off
Dnie - Off
Mode - Movie
Contrast - 40
Brightness - 45
Sharpness - 0
Color - 45
Tint - G50/R50
Tone Color - Warm2

But it seems to look too dark. Has anyone else experienced this? Anyway, I would appreciate any insight. Thank you.

Set your Comcast box to 720p--the native resolution of your set.

As for the picture settings, to each his own. But I also found that having the Contrast set to anything less than 45 was too dark. I like the Samsung default Movie settings with Digital NR set to OFF for HD content. For SD and bright days I use the Samsung default Standard setting with Digital NR ON and DNIe ON. Most people will say always turn DNIe OFF but to my eyes, it improves SD channels.

bisoncager

09-07-06, 08:49 PM

Has anyone had any problems on the 5086 with fast moving images creating pixelation? On bright fast moving objects, the picture I am getting gets extremely blocky, likeyou can tell there's a problem receiving the information too quickly or something. I'm new to HD, so i don't know what is going on with it really. I have my Comcast HD box connected with HDMI, so i dn't know why i'd be having ths problem. It appears most during sports.

Bryan_P

09-07-06, 10:02 PM

Alright guys, should I buy the HLS 46 incher off of TVAuthority for $1360, or should I buy an HLR 42 inch floor model from Circuit City for $799 with a $325 4-year warranty that will replace the nearly-shot bulb?

I need to decide by tomorrow!

L Supreme

09-07-06, 10:11 PM

Ok...I'm a fairly educated newbie, and was not aware that you could set the output on comcast boxes. How is that done?

on a moto box
turn the box off leave the tv on
on the remote or box, hit the menu button extremely quick the user settings will pop up on the tv screen

Wallyworld

09-07-06, 10:16 PM

on a moto box
turn the box off leave the tv on
on the remote or box, hit the menu button extremely quick the user settings will pop up on the tv screen

Thanks, Got it L...deleted my msg before getting ur reply.

Bryan_P

09-08-06, 12:50 AM

bisoncager

09-08-06, 01:00 AM

In addition to changing the output mode on that motorala comcast box menu, do you guys mess with the 4:3 override at all? I have found that if you set it to "stretch", not ony does it make Standard definition channels fill up the whole screen, it actually improves their clarity for some reason. I have no idea why, but i have noticed a dramatic difference in the clarity of SD while having it on stretch. I have the 5086, so setting it to 480i is not supported, and the 480p selection makes the tv flicker the blue screen when its switching from an SD to an HD channel, so i found the stretch to be the best viewing option. It really clears it up, you should try it.

jjdurrant

09-08-06, 01:38 AM

TransAmLS1

09-08-06, 03:51 AM

bisoncager

09-08-06, 03:59 AM

TransAmLS1

09-08-06, 04:13 AM

Thanks. I think you are right. Discovery HD is amazing, actually. NBC's coverage of the steelers game wasn't that great. I've noticed ESPN isn't that great in HD either.

I've heard rumors ESPN is using some kind of old technology for HD and havent' upgraded. Is this true? Anyone heard this?NBC's coverage of the Steelers tonight was HORRIBLE. It's the worst excuse for HD I've seen in a while. After watching Discovery HD, INHD1, INHD2, and other preseason football games in HD, this was terrible.

It's kind of hit and miss it seems with ESPN. I've seen some awful stuff and some mediocre stuff. Nothing every really blows my mind. The ultimate test was when I saw a baseball game on ESPN HD that happened to also be playing on INHD1. There was no comparison. The INHD1 channel was far superior and it's unclear why.

I am kind of upset at the varying quality of "HD" signals between stations. It's almost as though we are getting "HD Lite" some of the time and true HD some of the time. It varies by show, channel, and time. Conan and Leno look really good, but the camera doesn't move much and it's usually only 1 camera. Sports generally use several cameras, all seeming to have different levels of quality.

I can't wait until HD is more standardized and the quality is more consistent and predicatble across stations. I am getting too much variance right now and it's a little frustrating.

Fast motion isn't the problem because nature shows on Discovery HD show birds flying, animals running, boats moving across water, and the camera is "sweeping" with no noticeable loss in quality or increased pixelation. When the ball was thrown tonight during the Steelers game, the quality really went to crap on NBC HD.

I have a Samsung 4666w and I'm totally happy with it. I use TWC and sometimes I think their feed is worse than others, but I really think it has to do with the stations (NBC, ABC, CBS, ESPN, etc.) Once both ends ramp up their quality, we will get better results. I think cable and satellite companies split and spread the signal too much to save bandwidth.

Kevinw

09-08-06, 06:34 AM

I just got my Sammy HLS-5086 in today and I am pretty happy. One question I have is for my Hi-def Comcast cable box. I can set it to put out either 720p or 1080i. So which one should I choose and what's the difference. .....I would appreciate any insight. Thank you.
I would try 1080i also. 85% of channels are native 1080i, Let the TV do the conversion to 720p instead of the cable box. Odds are the TV does a better job. At least it does compared to my Dish 622 tuner.

Net4surfer

09-08-06, 10:08 AM

I would try 1080i also. 85% of channels are native 1080i, Let the TV do the conversion to 720p instead of the cable box. Odds are the TV does a better job. At least it does compared to my Dish 622 tuner.

You were right, the 1080i setting on the box looks better. And I also have been having issues with the other Hi-def channels. Discovery looks amazing as well as INHD1 + 2, I also found HBOHD looked great when Star Wars 3 was on. ESPN HD is pretty much lame. I hope CBS and NBC get better. Outside of that I would have to say overall I am extremely happy with my new Sammy 5086. That and I only paid $1100 for it getting it from a store that sells refurbished tvs. Not a bad way to go.

ferrisg

09-08-06, 11:06 AM

NBC's coverage of the Steelers tonight was HORRIBLE. It's the worst excuse for HD I've seen in a while. After watching Discovery HD, INHD1, INHD2, and other preseason football games in HD, this was terrible.

[snip]

Fast motion isn't the problem because nature shows on Discovery HD show birds flying, animals running, boats moving across water, and the camera is "sweeping" with no noticeable loss in quality or increased pixelation. When the ball was thrown tonight during the Steelers game, the quality really went to crap on NBC HD.

I have a Samsung 4666w and I'm totally happy with it. I use TWC and sometimes I think their feed is worse than others, but I really think it has to do with the stations (NBC, ABC, CBS, ESPN, etc.) Once both ends ramp up their quality, we will get better results. I think cable and satellite companies split and spread the signal too much to save bandwidth.

Did you try checking out the OTA feeds at the same time? The OTA feed for the Steelers game here was very good, with no breakup at all. A lot of issues can be attributed to over-compression by the cable companies to squeeze more channels onto the wire.

Also, fast motion is the most problematic for the encoders to do properly. It requires a much higher bitrate. If the video becomes bitrate starved you will see those breakup effects.

ProV1x

09-08-06, 12:50 PM

to the current Samsung HL-S6186W owners: are you guys super happy with your purchase, or are you guys wondering if you should've bought a newer samsung? i can get the HL-S5087W 50" 1080p for about the same price. thanks!!

i'm getting the DirecTV HD, and i have a basic DVD player. I don't play games, and i won't be hooking up this TV w/ my computer.

Lastly, do I need a "off air antenna" when I get my DirecTV system installed? what is this for?

TransAmLS1

09-08-06, 02:34 PM

Did you try checking out the OTA feeds at the same time? The OTA feed for the Steelers game here was very good, with no breakup at all. A lot of issues can be attributed to over-compression by the cable companies to squeeze more channels onto the wire.

Also, fast motion is the most problematic for the encoders to do properly. It requires a much higher bitrate. If the video becomes bitrate starved you will see those breakup effects.Nah, I don't even have an OTA setup. I should probably get one, just to compare.

Do I need anything fancy, or will most decent amplified antennas pick up HD signal?

ProV1x

09-09-06, 10:43 AM

Hey guys!!

I just ordered my Samsung HL-S6186W 61" DLP from amazon!!!! woooowoooooo

now the painful wait begins.. ahhaha. meanwhile, i'll try to read this entire thread and get some info on proper break-in procedure, how to set it up, etc. but if there are quick links for them, please let me know!!

also, where can i buy a HDMI cable for the cheapest? and do u guys like to modify the picture settings, and what is the agreed upon best setting for this TV?

thanks

Kevinw

09-09-06, 11:35 AM

http://www.monoprice.com/products/subdepartment.asp?c_id=102&cp_id=10240&style=
http://www.ehdmi.com/hdmi.html

k94max

09-09-06, 12:16 PM

My 5086 arrived yesterday. Ordered it from Amazon on 8-30 and it arrived on 9-8. After spending the day putting the stand together and getting all of my components wired and hooked up everything went pretty smooth. Also spent the day with Comcast putting all new wiring in the house so that each tv and computer are on individual lines with a second line drop dedicated for internet. I ordered 4 items from Amazon and all went well with decent shipment time etc. Tv is very nice. It is like it set itself up without me having to do much of anything and it looks nice. Xbox360 is very brilliant in colors and no lag. I am going to go and fine tune it now with some of the suggested settings. So far I am a happy camper.

ProV1x

09-09-06, 01:00 PM

i just spent an hour reading this thread.. i cant wait til i get my TV!!

BTW, i need a new DVD player. Is the sony DVP-NS75H upconversion unit a waste of money?? should i just get the cheaper sony DVP-NS55P progressive scan unit. I hear that since the sammy will do the upconversion anyway, the NS75H will be a waste. Any input appreciated.

Also, what's the cheapest bang for buck cable type to hook up directv HD receiver & the DVD player? Is component cheaper than HDMI? What about audio, just regular RCA? I wont be buying a HT system til xmas.

Finally - directv wants $50 to install a OTA to watch local HD channels. Is this a big ripoff? they're coming next thurs.

thanks!

ProV1x

09-09-06, 01:20 PM

http://www.monoprice.com/products/subdepartment.asp?c_id=102&cp_id=10240&style=
http://www.ehdmi.com/hdmi.html

thank u thank u!!! u just saved me a bunch of $$. ordering 2 6ft 28AWG cables.. less than six dollars each!! :)

Hydra_Hobo

09-09-06, 01:41 PM

ProV1x

09-09-06, 01:56 PM

I would say just go with the progressive scan...You cant really make something on a disk in 480P look like HD, upconversion or not...and i watched LOTR all on a progressive scan and it looked AMAZING...ANd i mean amazing. Like almost HD quality. I would say no need fo rthe upconverter.

thanks ! the progressive scan sony player does not have HDMI. i like HDMI cuz 1 cable does both audio & video so there is less clutter. but anyway, if no HDMI, what's the next best, s-video or component?

Bryan_P

09-09-06, 02:01 PM

thanks ! the progressive scan sony player does not have HDMI. i like HDMI cuz 1 cable does both audio & video so there is less clutter. but anyway, if no HDMI, what's the next best, s-video or component?
get components, they're much much better than s-video

shark1987

09-09-06, 04:39 PM

so if i have my cable box hooked up with hdmi to my HL-S5086W, and then the optical out hooked up to my reciever will the audio from HDMI still be in it's digital format and everything when it gets to my reciever?

Kevinw

09-09-06, 07:09 PM

thanks ! the progressive scan sony player does not have HDMI. i like HDMI cuz 1 cable does both audio & video so there is less clutter. but anyway, if no HDMI, what's the next best, s-video or component?
Really can't use HDMI for audio if you are using a Ht receiver. Unless audio receiver has HDMI switching ability.

ProV1x

09-10-06, 12:01 AM

i picked up the progressive scan sony DVD player from BB today. with a free $25 gift card i got from mazda, i only paid $35. Woowoo!!

this is a fantastic unit. even w/ S-video cable & non progressive scan mode with my analog 24" Sony CRT, my movies look AMAZING. i can't wait til i hook this baby up to my Sammy 61" with component cables and turn that progressive scan on.

btw, i hadn't been to the local BB in ages, and today it almost looked like they were going out of biz, almost all products had the yellow openbox 30% off sale and many shelves were empty... wtf??? :confused:

gdbet2005

09-10-06, 03:04 PM

I am trying to decide on the 4666 vs. the 5086 and from reading this forum, the 4666 seems to be relatively trouble free compare to the 5086. I am saying relative because I understand the 5086 is also quite a good TV. We are sitting about 10-11 ft from the TV. I would welcome opinions from other members.

dsl_steve

09-10-06, 03:06 PM

A little OT for the most-recent posts but after having my HL-S4266W for a little over two months I've finally settled on my preferred picture settings. I'm using Movie mode with Samsungs default settings for both SD and HD inputs during the day and at night. I keep Digital NR off and DNIe is off by default. Every time I tried to use Eliab's recommended settings (Contrast 45, Brightness, 40, Sharpness, 0) I always found them just too dark. If you notice the Movie mode default settings are very close the Eliab's recommended settings with a little more Contrast and Sharpness. For those who care, the settings for Movie mode are:

[Mode - Movie]
Contrast - 70
Brightness - 45
Sharpness - 25
Color - 45
Tint - MID
Color Tone - Warm 2
Digital NR - OFF
DNIe - OFF

BTW, I *do* have the black grass but it really doesn't bother me at all. My picture is so great that I don't want to risk the picture quality with a set exchange. I also looked at a 4666 and have to say that unlike what others have said, the blacks on my 4266 are as good if not exactly the same as the blacks on the 4666.

TransAmLS1

09-10-06, 05:55 PM

A little OT for the most-recent posts but after having my HL-S4266W for a little over two months I've finally settled on my preferred picture settings. I'm using Movie mode with Samsungs default settings for both SD and HD inputs during the day and at night. I keep Digital NR off and DNIe is off by default. Every time I tried to use Eliab's recommended settings (Contrast 45, Brightness, 45, Sharpness, 0) I always found them just too dark. If you notice the Movie mode default settings are very close the Eliab's recommended settings with a little more Contrast and Sharpness. For those who care, the settings for Movie mode are:

[Mode - Movie]
Contrast - 70
Brightness - 45
Sharpness - 25
Color - 45
Tint - MID
Color Tone - Warm 2
Digital NR - OFF
DNIe - OFF

BTW, I *do* have the black grass but it really doesn't bother me at all. My picture is so great that I don't want to risk the picture quality with a set exchange. I also looked at a 4666 and have to say that unlike what others have said, the blacks on my 4266 are as good if not exactly the same as the blacks on the 4666.No offense, but I think those settings are pretty off...

I think sharpness should be set to 0, no matter who you are and your contrast is still pretty high.

If you're happy with it, there is no reason to change it though.

ProV1x

09-10-06, 10:34 PM

Kevinw

09-10-06, 11:11 PM

guys, very quick question:

is component cable nothing more than 3 regular RCA cables running together??

in other words, can i just run my basic 3-wire RCA cable (1 yellow vid, and 2 audio cables) for 3 component video jacks??
Yes and no, If you notice the yellow is a fatter cable. --more shielding and more copper sometimes. Revisit the sites I showed you for CHEAP component cables.

Kevinw

09-10-06, 11:12 PM

No offense, but I think those settings are pretty off...

I think sharpness should be set to 0, no matter who you are and your contrast is still pretty high.

If you're happy with it, there is no reason to change it though.

I agree about the contrast but why the sharpness?

RobFox68

09-11-06, 03:22 PM

I calibrated my new 4266 with Avia over the weekend. My best settings were

Brightness (white): 62
Contrast (black): 52
Color: 38

I agree about the contrast but why the sharpness?

Sharpness was definitely best at zero. If you raise sharpnes at all, it unnaturally boosts the high video frequencies, causing "ringing" in the pulse response. This is easy to see with the sharp vertical pulses or brightness steps in the setup DVD. It looks like the "ghosts" you see in analog video. Edges may be emphasized, but the actual effect is to blur the picture.

BTW, I also set up a friend's HL-R 56xx set yesterday. His best settings were different (not surprisingly). What I found interesting was that the Sharpness control on his set apparently had no effect at all. I could run it from 0 to 100 and the picture never changed! I suspect the engineers didn't tell the marketing folks that they had disabled the control.

[Edit]
The above settings should read:

Contrast (white): 62
Brightness (black): 52
Color: 38

RobFox68

09-11-06, 03:35 PM

guys, very quick question:

is component cable nothing more than 3 regular RCA cables running together??

in other words, can i just run my basic 3-wire RCA cable (1 yellow vid, and 2 audio cables) for 3 component video jacks??

No, this is one time when you definitely do not want to use basic or ultra-cheap cables. Component cables for RGB or YPrPb carry signals with bandwidths up to 10 MHz or so. The yellow video wire might be useable, as it is designed to pass a few MHz. But those audio cables are designed to carry signals only up to 20 kHz or so, 500x less than component. You would definitely lose signal in those cheap cables; it would probably look pretty fuzzy.

Generally I'm very skeptical about requirements for cable quality, but this is one place you should not skimp on quality. (It still pays to look for bargains, though.)

dsl_steve

09-11-06, 03:50 PM

I calibrated my new 4266 with Avia over the weekend. My best settings were

Brightness (white): 62
Contrast (black): 52
Color: 38

Are those numbers using the *Movie* mode?

toenail

09-11-06, 04:08 PM

Brightness (white): 62
Contrast (black): 52
Color: 38

I'm confused about your reference to brightness and contrast, did you confuse these two or am I missing something? I'm used to seeing contrast refer to white level and brightness refer to black level.

RobFox68

09-11-06, 04:17 PM

I'm confused about your reference to brightness and contrast, did you confuse these two or am I missing something? I'm used to seeing contrast refer to white level and brightness refer to black level.

Yes, I flipped them around in my previous post. Sorry!

It should have read

Contrast (white): 62
Brightness (black): 52
Color: 38

And yes, I used Movie mode for those, but it looks to me like all four presets can be adjusted freely.

ProV1x

09-11-06, 04:43 PM

No, this is one time when you definitely do not want to use basic or ultra-cheap cables. Component cables for RGB or YPrPb carry signals with bandwidths up to 10 MHz or so. The yellow video wire might be useable, as it is designed to pass a few MHz. But those audio cables are designed to carry signals only up to 20 kHz or so, 500x less than component. You would definitely lose signal in those cheap cables; it would probably look pretty fuzzy.

Generally I'm very skeptical about requirements for cable quality, but this is one place you should not skimp on quality. (It still pays to look for bargains, though.)

thanks for the info.. thought i'd ask cuz i only got about 30 of those RCA cables in my toolbox already!! lol

ferrisg

09-11-06, 06:58 PM

And yes, I used Movie mode for those, but it looks to me like all four presets can be adjusted freely.

Movie mode has a different gamma table than the others, but that's the only difference I know of. Actually, I think it also has different CCA coordinates as well, but I don't really feel like going into the service menu (and losing my settings) to check. A calibrator probably knows offhand.

ferrisg

09-11-06, 07:00 PM

thanks for the info.. thought i'd ask cuz i only got about 30 of those RCA cables in my toolbox already!! lol

You can give it a shot. The key is for the impedance to be 75 ohms. Having shielding helps prevent signals from coupling onto your video cables. More than likely you'll get a usable signal, but it's probably a good idea to get some decent cables from somewhere like Monoprice.

mithong

09-12-06, 12:18 PM

do you all know if the samsung hl-s5086w has the faroudja de interlacer?

ProV1x

09-12-06, 01:03 PM

quick update: i ordered my sammy from the bookseller on sat night, and it already got shipped this morning via eagle!!!!!woowoo i luv A_____N. LOL i feel like i'm encripting everything on this board

ryan woods

09-12-06, 07:32 PM

dsl_steve

09-12-06, 07:55 PM

Hi all,

I just recently had my 4666W delivered and have a question. I noticed in the manual that the tint control is supposed to be disabled when the TV is connected through HDMI, however I do have control over tint. Conversely, it does not seem that when I adjust the sharpness level any change occurs whether I have the sharpness set at 0 or 100. Am I missing something, or is this how other xx66W users TV's are?

On my HL-S4266W the Tint *is* grayed out when using HDMI from my Samsung HD860 DVD player. The first time I noticed it I thought something was wrong. As for the Sharpness, even though my eyes are not that great I also notice there doesn't seem to be any change in the picture when changing from 0 to 100. It may be something very subtle that requires a trained eye. I've only had my set for a little over two months and I'm still getting used to it. To me its no big deal because every recommendation I've seen from calibrators here say to set it at 0 anyway.

Notice in the second paragraph of post 578 (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=8405851&&#post8405851) above someone elso noticed the same thing on a HL-R 56xx set.

[edit]
See this thread (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=722985) on the subject.

grate88

09-13-06, 10:55 AM

I have an ultimate newbie question. Got my 5086W last week and I am very pleased.
Last night after a week of use I noticed that every time I push any button on the remote, the yellow timer light flashes. I don't think it was doing this at first but no matter what button on the remote is pushed a yellow flash occurs. The light is off at all other times. Is this normal or an issue? Thanks.

dsl_steve

09-13-06, 11:27 AM

grate88

09-13-06, 01:13 PM

Yes, its normal. Its how the set lets you know it received a signal from the remote.

Thank you - I guess I just didn't notice it for the firest week - so I thought something was going on with the unit.

mithong

09-13-06, 01:21 PM

Does anyone know if the hl-s5086w has the faroudja chip in it?

MXSG

09-13-06, 03:09 PM

Does anyone know what happened with Houston and his replacement set? I was hoping to see if there was any word on the black grass issue from Samsung and how they are handling it.

dsl_steve

09-13-06, 03:14 PM

Does anyone know what happened with Houston and his replacement set? I was hoping to see if there was any word on the black grass issue from Samsung and how they are handling it.

If you recall, he received a replacement set on September 8th that was DOA. He is now waiting for another replacement (his 4th). No more info yet.

I've decided to live with the black grass on my set. My HL-S4266 has a great picture with very good blacks---something that appears to be uncommon with the 4266 (good blacks). I'm not willing to risk getting a set that's worse in some other way.

HoustonPerson

09-13-06, 04:18 PM

Sorry there is no update.

Let's see Samsung "promised" the replacement set (set #4) would ship before the labor day weekend. It did not ship until September 7th.

It was supposed to arrive in Houston to schedule delivery on September 12th.

I do have tracking numbers and all that good stuff, but so far each day they keep postponing the estimated arrival date? Currently the set is "LOST". No one is able to answer "Where is it?"

Um? This is not a good feeling.

dsl_steve

09-13-06, 06:23 PM

gdbet2005

09-13-06, 10:35 PM

quick update: i ordered my sammy from the bookseller on sat night, and it already got shipped this morning via eagle!!!!!woowoo i luv A_____N. LOL i feel like i'm encripting everything on this board

I am also considering placing an order but could not decide on 4666 or 5086. What model did you get? I have not read any problems with the 4666 in this forum. Would also like to hear about the delivery.

ProV1x

09-14-06, 10:26 AM

Stimpy3

09-14-06, 10:58 AM

My 6158 is due to arrive anyday now, but i'm really concerned about one thing. i know HD channels & DVD will look GREAT on this TV, but what about SD directv channels?? i hope i won't be hugely disappointed w/ SD picture on this TV as I still watch lots of SD channels.

What the heck is a 6158?!

My standard deffinition looks great on my HL-S5088 and looks pretty good on the HL-S4266 that I bought for my niece. The 4266 might look great also but my niece has crappy cable.

ProV1x

09-14-06, 11:02 AM

loooooool sorry i'm not a techie guy.. just looked it up, it should read "Samsung HL-S6186W"

RDK006

09-14-06, 03:05 PM

Stimpy3

09-14-06, 03:25 PM

Just received my 5696 the other day and really just have it set up for OTA broadcasts. Have to say, I'm very surprised so far by the varying quality between channels - both for SD and HD content. Some of the SD shows look terrific - sometimes even better than HD (or at least widescreen digital) on other channels - but some looks like crap. I'm basing this on OTA digital signals by the way.

Try using the fine tuning adjustment in the channel set up menu. As for the lower quality HD channels, try an amplified antenna or a larger antenna. What is the distance to the transmitting towers? Are they all in the same direction or are they spred out in multiple directions? Try antennaweb.org to find this out. It will also give antenna type recommendations.

Stimpy3

09-14-06, 03:35 PM

loooooool sorry i'm not a techie guy.. just looked it up, it should read "Samsung HL-S6186W"

Sorry ProV1x,

I should have put a smiley face after that statement. :D I try to keep my responses light so the forum is fun. I figured you ment the 6186. Kind of like my response above, I'm sure he means the 5686. ;)

Enjoy, and don't hesitate to ask questions or make any comments. You should see the size of the 87/88 thred. Over 250 pages!

dcorban

09-14-06, 04:13 PM

I recently ordered the HL-S5066W as part of a home theater bundle. Unfortunately, while the TV is in stock, the home theater system is not, so I am still waiting. :(

One of the primary uses of my TV will be watching downloaded TV shows/movies through a PC that I will connect via the VGA port. I intend to set the PC's resolution to 1280x720 to give me a full 16:9 display and to match the TV's native resolution. However, from reading the section of the TV's manual where it lists the available VGA resolutions, the 1280x720 resolution is listed as "DTV", whatever that means. It also recommends using 1024x768 as the PC's resolution.

Does this TV support 1280x720 via the VGA port?

For what it's worth, I checked the manuals for the 4266 and 4666, and they both have the same VGA resolutions listed, so I imagine the whole HL-SXX66W has identical VGA resolutions.

peter21ma

09-14-06, 05:17 PM

I am also considering placing an order but could not decide on 4666 or 5086. What model did you get? I have not read any problems with the 4666 in this forum. Would also like to hear about the delivery.

I was a previous 4266w owner, and exchanged my 42 for a 4666w, because the 42, as we all know by now, suffers from black grass/seashell effect. The picture on the 4666w seems sharper and richer than the 4266w. I am VERY happy with the 46-inch sammy except for one thing... The TV seems to emit a faint, high-pitched buzzing sound. It's not noticeable when I have the volume of my 5.1 Onkyo system turned up, but when I have the volume turned down, I am able to hear the buzz. I don't know if it's from the color wheel or what, but I may call Samsung to enquire...

ferrisg

09-14-06, 05:21 PM

dcorban

09-14-06, 06:33 PM

I've got a 4666 and it supports 1280x720 fine over VGA. You'll end up wanting to run a different res to compensate for overscan. In my case I ended up at 1232x696 to get the desktop and all video to fill the screen completely with nothing cut off.

I am under the impression (from reading the manual) that the TV allows you to adjust the size when using the VGA input, so this should not be an issue. In particular, there is a "wide PC" preset that scales the size to 92% of the original size.

Thanks for letting me know it accepts 1280x720 input. I want my widescreen HD shows/movies to be displayed as close to the original resolution as possible. I believe that running at 1024x768 would force me to use some form of zoom, either on the PC or TV.

ProV1x

09-15-06, 09:55 AM

quick q: how big is the box & packaging for 61inch samsung?? i'm asking cuz i have an option of pickin up the TV at the airport today and wondering if it will fit in a Honda CRV. thx

ferrisg

09-15-06, 10:02 AM

I am under the impression (from reading the manual) that the TV allows you to adjust the size when using the VGA input, so this should not be an issue. In particular, there is a "wide PC" preset that scales the size to 92% of the original size.

Thanks for letting me know it accepts 1280x720 input. I want my widescreen HD shows/movies to be displayed as close to the original resolution as possible. I believe that running at 1024x768 would force me to use some form of zoom, either on the PC or TV.

If you want to read text you'll need to use the Wide TV setting and use a custom resolution. The scaler in the TV isn't that great so the wide PC setting mangles the image fairly well. If you're just watching videos there's a fair chance you won't notice.

zutmin

09-15-06, 10:11 AM

quick q: how big is the box & packaging for 61inch samsung?? i'm asking cuz i have an option of pickin up the TV at the airport today and wondering if it will fit in a Honda CRV. thx

Pretty good chance you aren't fitting that in your CRV. My 46" Sammy DLP just barely fit in my Subie Outback Wagon w/ the rear seats down.

Stimpy3

09-15-06, 10:51 AM

quick q: how big is the box & packaging for 61inch samsung?? i'm asking cuz i have an option of pickin up the TV at the airport today and wondering if it will fit in a Honda CRV. thx

The shipping container is: 60.6" X 43.4" X 22.4" (L X H X D )

It's also advised not to lay it down flat. Debris can fall on the lens or the screen and/or nock the light engine out of alignment. :(

rick*r!

09-15-06, 01:08 PM

I've decided to live with the black grass on my set. My HL-S4266 has a great picture with very good blacks---something that appears to be uncommon with the 4266 (good blacks). I'm not willing to risk getting a set that's worse in some other way.

I'm feeling the same way. The black grass doesn't bother me (other than the fact that it shouldn't be there at all), and I am otherwise pretty happy with my set. Blacks are good, not as sharp as a Sony LCD that a friend has, but still quite good, and I like the colors and picture quality of my s4266w better than the sony.

a friend just got a 62 inch Mitsu DLP and the blacks look similar to my Sammy.

I still plan to get it professionally calibrated (probably not till next year), and then I really look forward to how great it will look.

One question though. If I get the tv calibrated, and then move (leaving the tv unplugged for more than a week) will it reset to it's default settings? or will the new settings hold?

blkwidow02

09-15-06, 01:45 PM

Has anyone found a way to adjust overscan on these tv's yet (specifically the 5086w)? I know we can adjust VGA inputs to get the full image, but what about hdmi and component?

eripey

09-15-06, 02:12 PM

dsl_steve

09-15-06, 02:15 PM

One question though. If I get the tv calibrated, and then move (leaving the tv unplugged for more than a week) will it reset to it's default settings? or will the new settings hold?

The new settings will be saved just as the factory settings are saved when the set is shipped from the factory to its destination (unplugged).

ayrton911

09-16-06, 02:06 AM

I have a Samsung 50" DLP HDTV (HL-S5086W) and I put a couple of post about HD content things. How do I get the tv to automatically convert 1080i to 720p?? Does the TV do this automatically? Because some people say for HD dvd players, the older ones, they set the output to 1080i and the tv will convert the image to 720p...is this true?

Thanks for any replies.

Yes, a 720p television *must* convert 1080i to 720p, so it always does that.

In fact, *anything* you put into the TV that is not 720p is converted to 720p.

gdbet2005

09-16-06, 03:23 PM

I just ordered my 5086 from CC. They are running a coupon online that would give you a price lower than the bookseller when you add up all the incentives. Plus you have 30 day return, free ship, 24 months no interest, and local pickup if you prefer. I know that with tax it might be a little more but I think it is worth it with the other advantages. Check it out if you are in the market.

BSDeez16

09-16-06, 03:38 PM

I have the S5086W and I was wondering how to go about finding the discrete IR codes for use with a macro/programmable remote.

I want to be able to choose any given input without having to press the input button multiple times to rotate to the input desired.

Where are the codes!?!?!

Thank you very much.

LR6AGB001

09-16-06, 09:27 PM

Anyone tested for overscan on this set (HL-S4266W), I barely read any mention of it. Either it's not happening on the set or no one has bothered. I'm looking for a replacement set for my bedroom since my Toshiba 52HMX84 has me a bit down because of uncorrectable overscanning. :(

starlights

09-17-06, 12:36 PM

Could any of the owners of the S5086W confirm if it has the QAM tuner and the Cable card slot?

According to the listing on Amazon, it does, but the posts i ve read here say otherwise :confused:

From Amazon (Under more technical details link)
Screen size: 50 inches
TV type: DLP
HDTV capable: Yes, with integrated ATSC receiver
Digital Cable Ready: Yes, with CableCARD slot (requires optional CableCARD)
Resolution: 1280 x 720 pixels

My alternate is HL-S4666. Which one should i go for? This will be our second RP tv for the bedroom - the earlier one being Sony GWIII 60" which is awesome !

Appreciate any help :)

RobFox68

09-17-06, 09:37 PM

shark1987

09-17-06, 10:22 PM

The 5086W doesn't have a cable card slot or QAM tuner

starlights

09-18-06, 09:47 AM

The 5086W doesn't have a cable card slot or QAM tuner
Thanks for the confirmation shark1987.

Then i suppose, 4666 makes a better buy - i dont really care about the 4" difference in screen size, but given the better overall satisfaction level people have with this set, i think i could safely settle for it.

shark1987

09-18-06, 10:16 AM

are you sure the 4666W does?

ProV1x

09-18-06, 10:19 AM

Savatage316

09-18-06, 10:57 AM

hi everyone!

just received my 6168 this morning from amazon via eagle.

this tv is awesome!! i was shocked to see how big it was. certainly looks impressive.

still have to wait another week for directv HD installation, but SD channels via comcast coax looks surprisingly good.

just a few quick observations:

1. DVD via sony progressive player does not look as good as i hoped for. perhaps i should've bought the upconverting player???

2. when i turn the tv off, there is a white bell-shaped curve in the middle of the screen. ???

i will read the manual tonight and play with the settings - waht's the agreed upon best video setting ??

Yea bud, youre going to want to get an upconversion player and youll be as good as gold ;)

I personally recommend the Toshiba HD-DVD player which is absolutely amazing...it not only upconverts beautifully but you get HD-DVD capability as well...its a steal for 400 bucks! But only if you have some extra bones to throw around, if you do, go for it man...awesome dvd player!

LR6AGB001

09-18-06, 11:20 AM

3% all around on my new HL-S4266W.

Thanks for the reply. Is this correctable in the service menu and would anyone happen to know if the 46" model is plagued with overscanning as well as the "black grass" everyone seems to be mentioning?

dsl_steve

09-18-06, 11:38 AM

Thanks for the reply. Is this correctable in the service menu and would anyone happen to know if the 46" model is plagued with overscanning as well as the "black grass" everyone seems to be mentioning?

No black grass on the 46. Don't know anything about overscan issues.

ProV1x

09-18-06, 11:42 AM

Yea bud, youre going to want to get an upconversion player and youll be as good as gold ;)

I personally recommend the Toshiba HD-DVD player which is absolutely amazing...it not only upconverts beautifully but you get HD-DVD capability as well...its a steal for 400 bucks! But only if you have some extra bones to throw around, if you do, go for it man...awesome dvd player!

i spent a bit more time playing w/ my new toy.. it turns out the DVD wasn't very good coz i didn't turn the "progressive" mode on!!! i turned it on and OMG picture looks AMAZING.

for my eyes, "standard" video setting looks a lot better than "MOVIE" btw

RDK006

09-18-06, 12:29 PM

i spent a bit more time playing w/ my new toy.. it turns out the DVD wasn't very good coz i didn't turn the "progressive" mode on!!! i turned it on and OMG picture looks AMAZING.

for my eyes, "standard" video setting looks a lot better than "MOVIE" btw

A few people (in earlier posts) are reporting better results with progressive turned off on the DVD player and letting the TV set handle the upsampling via "film mode." That's how i have it set up at the moment, but the jury's still out - I saw little difference either way but have yet to upgrade my composite cables.

HoustonPerson

09-18-06, 01:24 PM

Ok, finally the replacement new HL-S4266 is here.

This set has an August 2006 build.

Black Grass is still there but reduced significantly. It is 98% - 99% gone at the bottom of the picture and I would say about 60% gone at the top of the picture. Overall, most would say it is not there; you have to know it is there, and strain to see it. The Black Grass per se was not objectionable to me on the first set. It was the lack of black detail (heavy crush), and often shadow puppet pictures that bothered me the most.

Overall this set has a significantly better picture then the first. Remember the first one, was one of the first off the assemble line. It was in my house approximately one month before BB or CC had them in the stores.

Here are the major areas this one is better:

1. Much greater color accuracy in all settings (dynamic, standard, movie, custom). 95% of the “neon” effect is color is not gone.
2. It is sharper overall
3. The first set could only do grayscale accurate in the 20% through the 120% level; confirmed subjectively with the “Get Gray” calibration disk. In other words the bottom 20% of blacks were crushed up into the 20% level. The set is a lot better, I would subjectively say about 8% through the 108% level. Much much better, but still no 1080p set with the advanced black detailers etc.
4. Geometry is a lot better. It was acceptable to me of the first set; even so this one is much improved. That is more accurate 4:3 Much straighter “letter box” etc. According to “Get Gray” Overscan is almost identical on both sets. About 2% left and right. About 1% top and about 5% bottom. Um, wonder if that is the DVD player and not my set? No biggie, it don’t bother me.
5. The picture is much more evenly “lighted” (very important in dark scenes). The first set was visibly brighter closer to the bottom of the screen. The set is able to produce blacks and very dark colors evenly across all parts of the screen.
6. DNIe is much much improved. I still prefer “movie” mode for night viewing, and will occasionally use “standard” (warm2) for daytime (bright lights) with DNIe “off” but for some pictures the DNIe “on” can produce somewhat good results. The DNIe on this set does not crush blacks as severely as it did on the first one. In other words on this set you can see faint pin stripes on black suits in “standard” with DNIe “on”, that you could not see at all in “movie mode” on the old set. It is that much improved! That is really a major change.
7. Software is a little different inside. Very subtle changes here and there. For example, on this set you can adjust “hue” even on digital stations. The most significant is that color accuracy is so much better (decoding).

Even though the set was delivered last Friday, I only got back in town last night; so have only had a few hours with the set.

Any problems? Yes - the cooling fan makes a high pitch whining sound. You can hear it across the room. I will decide in the next couple of days if it bothers me enough to have them replace the fan; at this point I am leaning towards “yes”. The first set was 100% quite.

dsl_steve

09-18-06, 01:39 PM

HoustonPerson
Glad to see progress in getting a functional exchange set. I love my HL-S4266 and while reading your seven pros of the set I can honestly say mine has the same picture attributes which is why I've decided to overlook the black grass. As I said before, my black grass has been steadily (although slowly) shrinking. I'm surprised the new set has any at all. It must be a tough thing to fix if Samsung can't do it. I've also noticed how on my set DNIe can sometimes improve things like you've noticed. I've seen where I can see more detail in black objects like a suit as-well. Anyway, I hope you get your fan noise resolved. As you said about your old set, my fan is very quiet.

BTW: I never did try the black grass message on my set. ;)

Steve

dsl_steve

09-18-06, 05:58 PM

Ok, finally the replacement new HL-S4266 is here.

This set has an August 2006 build.

Overall this set has a significantly better picture then the first. Remember the first one, was one of the first off the assemble line. It was in my house approximately one month before BB or CC had them in the stores.

HoustonPerson

How do I find the build date of my set?
If I'm not mistaken, its on a sticker on the box? If so, mine is April 2006.
And what was the build date of your first set?

HoustonPerson

09-18-06, 07:14 PM

Build Date is on a sticker, dead center on the back of the TV. If I recall correctly the first one was March 2006. But it may have been April?

AFAIK, the Black Grass massage is only temporary. Also, the Black Grass on the current set is so minimal, that I think I would be the only one able to see it. That is how little it is.

I am so happy the black detail is much improved. Today I watch Jepordy in HD with the set on "standard" with the DNIe "on" - of course all the lights were on too. I could see all the detail in Mr. Host (what is that guys name - for $200) black suit! And you could actually see the difference between black, dark gray, and navy suits. The first TV they all looked like dull shadows.

About the only changes I have made to the factory settings are:

move mode - reduce sharpness to about 42

standard mode - reduce sharpness to about 42 and reduce color about 5 notches down, and temp to warm2.

I do not use dynamic or custom.

dsl_steve

09-18-06, 07:50 PM

munangst

09-18-06, 10:15 PM

Anybody know if the HLS-4666W will pass through DD 5.1 audio from the HDMI input to the optical out? Or do you have to route the audio from the source via a separate optical/digital coax cable to your receiver in order to get DD? I have an older receiver that doesn't support HDMI or component switching, so it's easier if I can route all the audio/video inputs into the TV, then run a single optical cable from the TV to the receiver. Otherwise I have to switch inputs on both the TV and the receiver whenever I switch sources. Thanks...

starlights

09-18-06, 10:47 PM

are you sure the 4666W does?
Nope it doesnt too - but then its no brainer - reports on 4666 seem to be better than the 5086 plus its for the bedroom - 4" wont make such a difference. Already have the Sony GW 60

QAM if there on the 50 would have tilted me in favor of the 50

saywhat

09-19-06, 04:09 AM

interested in purchasing samsung dlp 4266w - main reason for purchase is video out. has anyone used composite video out out to record ota programming- how does it work? can i watch s-video while the tv video output is set to atsc tv tuner. thanks

HoustonPerson

09-19-06, 07:47 AM

dsl_steve

09-19-06, 08:03 AM

DSL_Steve

Yes you are correct, my bad.

On Movie mode the only thing I changed on factory default was sharpness: Was 25 and I increased it to 42

On Standard Mode:
DNIe is "off" most of the time
Sharpness reduced to 42 (was 50 I think)
Color reduced to 45 (was 50 I think)
and Temp changed to Warm2

Both of those settings produce excellent results (PQ) for the GetGray disc - gray levels, colors etc.

We watched Standoff, Prison Break, Vanished, and just parts of CSI (all from the HD recorder to chop out the commercials); this set overall blows the other one away. All pictures are a lot more real. The standard setting above can in many scenes produce even a little better black detail than movie mode. We can now see color ticking in dark suits that was not visible on the first set.

I'm going to try out similar settings for Standard mode. We've been using Movies mode with the factory defaults for almost everything lately. Every now and then I reduce the contrast from 70 to 50 or 40 (Eliabs recommended settings) and I always end up finding that the picture seems too dark at times.

Have you seen this (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=722985) discussion?

My Sharpness settings don't seem to do much.

HoustonPerson

09-19-06, 08:08 AM

I'm going to try out similar settings for Standard mode. We've been using Movies mode with the factory defaults for almost everything lately. Every now and then I reduce the contrast from 70 to 50 or 40 (Eliabs recommended settings) and I always end up finding that the picture seems too dark at times.

Have you seen this (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=722985) discussion?

My Sharpness settings don't seem to do much.

Ok, I will post a reply there regarding sharpness.

am4966

09-19-06, 05:19 PM

RDK006

09-19-06, 06:07 PM

I just bought a 5686 from Amazon - no problems whatsoever. As I understand it, the sets are basically the same except for the size, so any comments on the 50" or 62" (65?) should apply to the 56" as well.

I haven't purchased any extended warranty yet - haven't decided yet - but Amazon offers one as well.

gilpv

09-19-06, 11:49 PM

I've had my hls4666 for about a month now and I'm thrilled with the picture quality I get OTA.

I'm building a PC/DVR and the card that I have installed (mdp-130) will not output to my TV through the DVI/HDMI cable. In fact, hdmi is greyed out within the TV menu. It's not getting a signal. I connected it to one of my DVI flat panels with a DVI cable and the output was fine. I just ordered an Oppo DVD player which will also use a DVI\HDMI cable. Depending on whether or not that works I should be able to isolate the problem.

Is anyone else having problems with their HDMI ports?

Thanks.

HoustonPerson

09-20-06, 07:27 AM

I am about to purchase a DLP and I have read several pages of this thread and I cant seem to have some across a post of where someone had bought the HLS5686. Is there a quality reason for this or does it mainly have to do with space? Also I am about 100% sure what ever I buy I will buy from Amazon since they have a good deal and free shipping. So I was wondering if anyone could recommend a Extended Warranty? I was searching to see if Samsung had one, but cant seem to find anything. TV Authority has one that you can buy from them even if you dont buy your TV from them. Any suggestions would be appericated and comments.

AM

Purchasing online is hit or miss, it does not matter who the vendor is. Our family has had 4 DLP's shipped long distance within the last 9 months. One had fork lift go through the side of the cabinet. Another arrived perfect, but the stand was destroyed. Another looked perfect and the box was 1000% percent perfect, but the set was DOA; best I could figure it was dropped real hard it just kept playing the Samsung tune over and over again, and never turned on, and the bulb never lite up in back either. A fourth one arrived with tiny damage to the box, but the set was perfect. Just make sure the vendor backs it up, and do not accept a damaged set.

Also, I have found that local vendors usually do better on pricing any way.

HoustonPerson

09-20-06, 07:34 AM

Item 8:

Along the lines of software revision - those subtle things. I basically never use "still picture" mainly a "toy" I think. But on the first set it would always change the color, and lighten the contrast when used. For example it you had the picture on "standard" and DNIe "on" and hit still picture it would change color and contrast a lot (much lighter). I had tested a few sets in the store back in April and May and they did the same thing. This set is 1000% dead on, the picture you "freeze" is the picture you where just watching, with no changes what so ever to color, brightness, or contrast.

Now I will never use "still picture" again LOL

munangst

09-20-06, 10:41 AM

BTW, I bought my HL-S4666W from Amazon (delivered by Eagle USA). It arrived on time, the box was undamaged, and the TV worked fine. The driver even brought the box into our living room, took the TV out of the box, put it on the TV stand, and waited while I plugged it in and verified it was working. This was even though Amazon specifies "threshold" delivery (i.e., they bring it to your front door).

So I think it varies depending on what freight company is used, and probably down to the individual driver you get. BTW, as far as local companies doing better on pricing, no local store would get within $200 of Amazon's price ($1299, no tax, free delivery). Best Buy & Circuit City both said they wouldn't match against an online retailer, and the best they could do was about $1700.

dcorban

09-20-06, 09:59 PM

Anybody know if the HLS-4666W will pass through DD 5.1 audio from the HDMI input to the optical out?

No, it does not. It appears that the optical out only outputs DD 5.1 when viewing OTA content.

I was hoping to have the same setup you describe. Unfortunately, it appears that even after all these years, we are still stuck having to change sources on two different components. :( Maybe in a few years.

jedimason

09-20-06, 10:09 PM

I've been tweaking with the picture settings since I got this TV this past Friday and wanted to see if anyone else had this same issue. When I use the custom setting and tie it exactly to the default "movie" mode the picture looks different. Can't really describe the changes, but it always looks like "movie" mode is better. Is there something more that "movie" mode does that I can't change in the settings or is my eyes just playing tricks on me.

-jonathan

dsl_steve

09-21-06, 07:07 AM

Rocket Man

09-21-06, 07:54 AM

HoustonPerson

09-22-06, 04:51 PM

I guess we have watched about another 20 hours of HD on the new set.

The most important improvement of all is the black detail, it makes watching shows a pleasure. Even my wife says this set is a lot more crisp, she "can see more" (meaning no more shadow puppets.)

The DNIe is great on this set, even with it turned "on" in extemely bright lighting color accuracy is excellent and you still have black detail on dark clothes (pin stripes etc). On the first set DNIe made the set non-watchable it was "crushed" so bad, and so super "neon" looking.

Kingrsl

09-22-06, 07:05 PM

dsl_steve

09-22-06, 08:25 PM

i did a search here but can't find a solid answer...

Do most of you have your contrast settings in the 30-45 range? I'm trying to calibrate my DLP with my AVIA disc. I cant tell when the contrast setting is doing anything during that portion of the calibration. I ended up sticking with a setting of 87 but most people here say that is too high. I've been trying settings in the 40 range along but it seems so dark compared to what i'm used to. Here are my current settings.

contrast 42
brightness 51
sharpness 0
color 46
normal

On my 4266 I've also found the 'Eliab recommended' contrast settings too dark. I've ended up using the Samsung defaults for the Movie mode which are:

Mode - Movie
Digital NR - OFF
DNIe - OFF
Contrast - 70
Brightness - 45
Sharpness - 25
Color - 45
Tint - MID
Color Tone - Warm 2

These settings just seem to work well with all inputs regardless of day or night viewing.

dallas63

09-23-06, 05:35 AM

HoustonPerson

09-23-06, 07:13 AM

We have ordered an HLS5086W for our bedroom. My wife wants to put it on top of our dresser, which would make the center of the screen about 7 feet off the floor. The intent is that we would be able to watch tv laying down. The problem is that this will cause the viewing angle to be about 18-22 degrees underneath the tv. The viewing distance will be about 15 feet. The question is can I tilt the tv forward 20 degrees and not mess up the tv?... Will it effect the color wheel / air bearings or anything else...? Any other suggestions?

Well because you are 15' away it may not be a problem? If it is, I would not think tilting 5 degrees would be a problem, wonder if there is anything in the book about this? Besides all the hot air comes out the back, so that would only help keep the TV cooler (more air on the bottom and that fan can blow more out the back).

HoustonPerson

09-23-06, 07:22 AM

My settings are listed just a few post above.

I have since reduced sharpness to 38 for both "standard" and "movie".

Our color setting is reduced too (see above).

We use "movie" at night or in very dark room

Standard with the lights on

And will turn "on" the DNIe when the room is super bright; usually it is "off".

IMO the current Samsung produces excellent results on the Get Gray calibration disk (the first Samsung failed terribly and it could not be adjusted at all).

I am still amazed that calibration on this set is sooooooooooooo good, the first one was sooooooooooooo bad.

Now I am watching way too much TV

dsl_steve

09-23-06, 08:39 AM

I am still amazed that calibration on this set is sooooooooooooo good, the first one was sooooooooooooo bad.

Now I am watching way too much TV

Glad to see your enjoying your set. I am really happy with mine too and I also am watching TV too much. I have a Samsung HD860 upconverting 720p DVD player that makes watching DVDs a real experience. Its so good that we see the 3D effect that's associated with HD quite often.

This weekend my wife and I have the first 3 disks of Lost, season 2 courtesy of Netflix. We'll be vegin out in front of the TV a lot. BTW, if you want to see some real great quality video, watch the Deadwood series.

Kevinw

09-24-06, 12:04 AM

So I was wondering if anyone could recommend a Extended Warranty? I was searching to see if Samsung had one, but cant seem to find anything. TV Authority has one that you can buy from them even if you dont buy your TV from them. Any suggestions would be appericated and comments.

AM
http://*********texas.com/mack_warranty_combo.html
This is what I got -insert tape works with out space

TransAmLS1

09-25-06, 12:29 AM

ayrton911

09-25-06, 02:13 AM

OK, I am loving my 4666w. I think the picture has improved over the last month or so. It just looks awesome!

For $1349, this was worth every penny, especially with 0% for 18 months. I am paying under $100 per month for all this enjoyment.

Sweet. Glad you're enjoying it. Personally, I love having a nice TV to enjoy. I have last year's model, and I know what you mean. Also nice to do like you say, pay it off before the zero is over, and never pay a penny of interest.

Now that the fall TV season is heating up, my TV is proving to be more enjoyable than ever. I think we're pretty fortunate to be able to enjoy some good HDTV!

TransAmLS1

09-25-06, 03:39 AM

Savatage316

09-25-06, 07:18 AM

Same here, each day my HLS6187 gets better and better for everything...i simply love it!

I cant wait to snag more HD-DVDs for my Toshiba player, and gaming on this tv is just heaven...even for older games like on PS1 and what not...no matter the game, the tv makes them all look good! Xbox 360 is the beaut though, literally blows you away on this set!

Edit: Ops, thought i was posting in the 87 series thread, my bad :o

rosh400

09-25-06, 02:55 PM

I entered the HDTV world in June when I purchased the Sony 32XBR1 LCD panel for our bedroom. I love the set. I only wish I could have fit a larger set in our bedroom. At 10 ft, it is a bit small but I can live with it.

I am now researching for a 46 or 50 inch set for our family room. Flat panels are out of the price range leaving RPTV as the only option. I have narrowed down the choices two three: the Sony E2000 series, the Sony 50A2000, and the Sammy xx66/xx86 series. I have read this thread, the entire E2000 thread, and most of the A2000 thread. I also made my first store visits this past Friday.

I can afford the A2000 and I really liked the PQ (though I only saw and HD feed) but the reports of color uniformity put me off. The SXRD technology is still pretty new and I am hesitant about purchasing a technology whose reliability is somewhat questionable. Also at 9.5 feet and a 50 inch screen, I will not notice the resolution difference between 720p and 1080p. But, the SXRD technology also appears to have a brighter picture than Sony's rp LCD technology with better black levels and shadow detail.

Next, in terms of HD PQ, I liked the Sammy. I saw the 42 inch model sitting right next to the 50 inch SXRD in CC and the PQ compared favorably. I was quite surprise. I then looked at the 5086 next to the 50E2000 and the Sammy picture was brighter and it had decent black levels and shadow detail. I did not see RBE. I had the remote so I switched the set to movie mode and left all other settings alone.

The Sony picture seemed to be the least bright leaving it with little "pop." I changed the setting from vivid to standard and left things there. I think I did see some SSE but nothing objectionable. Frankly, I think I see SSE all the time. Is there anybody out there with E2000 experience that can coax a brighter picture out of the Sony with good black levels and decent shadow detail using Getgray or one of the other calibration discs?

I think that I have ruled out the A2000 unless over the next month or so, the green haze or blob issue is rectified leaving me to choose between the Sammy and the E2000. My main concern with the Sammy is reliability. I want the set to last 10 years. Given that we will watch the set about 20 to 25 hours per week, how likely is that. I don't have a problem with bulb replacement but I am more concerned with the light engine or the color wheel motor crapping out. Sammy DLP owners, what is your experience. How old is your oldest DLP set? In terms of reliability, my gut says Sony. No moving parts and better reputation for quality control. PC Mag's customer satisfaction survey just came out for HDTV and the frst year repair needed rate for Sammy was twice the Sony rate (12 percent vs. 6 percent).

The next question I have concerns an HT hookeup. The money I save by going 720p will be used to invest in an HT setup. Some in this thread, however, have mentioned audio sync and echo issues with HT and Sammy. How prevalent is this and is it curable?

Third, at 10 ft would 46 or 50 inches be better? I think my spouse would prefer 46 and if I go the LCD route, SSE would probably be less noticeable at 46. There is also the issue of black levels in the Sammy. I think it was Houstonperson who mentioned that the black levels improved with size among the Sammy's from the 42, to the 46, to the 50. If having the 50 meant better black levels and shadow detail, I would go that way. HP, do you still think this is the case or is the 46 and 50 close enough that I should pick the size I prefer?

Thanks in advance for your input and thanks for all your contributions.

edit.

Please note that I will be purchasing the set with a cc which extends the manufacturers warranty by one year.

dzikson

09-25-06, 10:43 PM

If I remember correctly the rule of thumb is multiply the distance by 4 to get max size for SD TV and by 6 for DVD/HD. So it really depends what you will be watching most. 50" at 10ft in SD will not look too good unfortunately.

jodiuh

09-26-06, 05:53 AM

HoustonPerson

09-26-06, 08:54 AM

Hello all,

I'm currently in the process of reading through the entire thread, but I have done searching for Lip Sync issues and only found "no problem" or "slight problem." That said, I'm a complete n00b w/ the tv thing. :D The 4666 recently came into the home and I have a couple issues with it. First and most annoying would be the lip sync when watching DVD's from the Sony Dream DAV-FC8. The DVD player's currently set to progressive output and hooked up to the TV via Component. The previous Sony 27" Trinitron hooked up via SVIDEO had no such problems. I've already tried movie/standard mode, so apparently DNIe doesn't effect it. Game mode and DNR do nothing either. Is it possible the cheapie walmart cable could be giving me issues? Any other settings to try?

Also, DVD's look as tho someone has placed a screen door in front of them. I'm well aware of the SDE on older notebooks and a Viewsonic VA2025 I've used, but didn't think a DLP would have one. Is it just the content that's looking filmy/grainy? Also, DVD's are 480P, right?

The 5$ rabbit ears found in a box result in OTA programming looking horrendous with splotchy video. The towers sit on a mountain only 5 miles away tho. :confused: That antenna site told me to get a small omnidirectional and hit it at 230 degrees, but I'm unsure of which to get. Any recs on antennas? Powered?

Cheers, thanks, and HELP!!

Jod :D

EDIT: ferrisg - Thanks, looks like the rat shack's got the Zenith ZHDTV1 (http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2457881&cp=2032057.2032187.2032189.2032204&pg=2&parentPage=family). I'll have to pick that up manana.

Lip Sync: It is unlikely the fault is with your set. Read the Sony manual closely, there may be an adjustment for lip sync in the Dream Machine (I think some of those models have that?). Also, you may want to change the machines output to 480i (that could be inducing the lip sync due to internal processing errors). You will def find that a much better picture letting the Samsung do all the conversion direct from 480i to 720p.

Rabbit ears: Find out what your RF range is for your HD stations ABC, CBS, etc. Typically they are in the mid UHF range. You can get that information here: http://www.antennaweb.org/aw/Welcome.aspx If so set one ear to about 2.5' and the other to about 1.25'. Then look at the signal strength for those stations. If it is generally above 70% then all is cool. Blotches are due to compression by that stations. The only real test will be a sample of Live HD sports, maybe CSI series, FOX News HD.........it is all dependent on what the "local" stations does with the HD signal they send you.

Dream Machine: My dad has one (it may be the same model?) - no lip sync problems but it is set to 480i. I am not a big fan of the Dream Machine, it is not able to play a rock steady picture from calibration disc - it produces a very jerky picture. Hooked up my regular Sony DVD player to his set and it worked perfectly.

HoustonPerson

09-26-06, 09:12 AM

rosh400,

In the Samsung line I would def lean towards either the 46" or 50" over the 42" model. With that said the current production (August and after) of the 42" is 99% the same as 46" model regarding blacks detail.

At 10' I think you would be happier with the 50" but also it is what fits best in the room too.

The current batch of Sony's are also excellent. And generally, as far as "pop" is concerned can produce the same general appearance to the Samsungs. For me, the two things I like about Samsung over the Sony are: no convergence issues and faster processing - video switching (football, baseball, etc) For 99% of the population that is not a problem. Sony does seem to handle bad compression and low quality signals a little better than Samsung - but again these are all personal things.

rosh400

09-26-06, 09:45 AM

cvilletoday

09-26-06, 10:07 AM

HoustonPerson

09-26-06, 10:28 AM

HP,

Thanks for your reply. For me, faster video processing is not an issue. I've seen references to convergence problems, but I'm not sure what is meant. Is that the same as geometry? Could you please explain? Thanks.

Rosh

No, it is not the same as geometry.

Sony rear projection uses 3 panels (red green blue) to project an image to the screen. It is difficult to get perfect alignment of those three independent images on the screen, the closer you look to the edges of a screen the more apparent this becomes.

The easiest way to see this is to look a white letters on a dark background. As those letters approach the edges and corners of the screen, you may start to see red, green, or blue (or any combination of the 3) outlines to the letters. You will notice this is different from Sony to Sony, even in the same model. Also, the larger the screen the more visible mis-convergence becomes.

Sony sets made this summer are a lot better then the ones made last summer; they have really focused in, on addressing that problem; but it will always be there. It can make for a softer (less sharp) picture. Again, for 99% of the population this is not a problem.

DLP's just have a single micro mirror, there is nothing to converge; hence the color wheel is used to get colors. Generally you will not see false colors as borders any where in the picture; useless it is sent to you by the stations (which happens - camera or video mis convergence) or is an internal lens problem with that specific DLP - very rare.

HoustonPerson

09-26-06, 10:36 AM

Hi all,
Great thread. What an education!! I'm on the cusp of buying a 5086 but I live in a town with no HD via cable, so I plan to get it OTA, but I still want the regular non-HD cable stations. Can I simultaneously hook up an OTA antenna and a cable box to the 5086 and just toggle between the two inputs depending on what I want to watch or is the switch between the two more involved? Thanks in advance.

1. reg non-HD cable - Yes
2. simultaneously hoop up and toggle - Yes

The HL-S5086 will receive both digital and analogue OTA (both tuners are in the set). You can also hook up any type of cable box, regular, digital, TIVO's etc. Or any combination of the above.

The remote has a "source" button to let you toggle through all souces of input. There is also a button just to toggle from OTA to Cable and back again, for those that use just a RF Cable pass through.

cvilletoday

09-26-06, 10:43 AM

HoustonPerson

09-26-06, 10:55 AM

HoustonPerson

09-26-06, 11:13 AM

Great. Thanks Houstonperson. Much appreciated. Any thoughts on the audio sync issue that has come up? Sounds like a fairly significant issue with watching dvds. I considered going from the dvd player to the tv to my receiver on the thought that this may sync up the image with the audio but I read in another post that the tv won't output 5.1. Is this the case? Thanks in advance

Lip Sync really seems to be very rare on the current crop of Samsungs. Most of the time it is because something is not hooked up correctly or it is in the source material (like a TV station or a cable show where someone at the station fell asleep at the switch). I have a Sony DVD 5 disc player, a Sony VHS player/recorder, and a Sony DHG-HDD500 HD recorder hooked up. There has never been a lip sync issue. My dad has a Sony Dream machine, OTA, and Time Warner cable with motorola HD recorder and lip sync is not a problem.

I know that the digital audio optical out puts out sound; but I do not know for sure if it is 5.1...............for example on my Dad's set HL-S5088 (he is 90); he usually watches TimeWarner/Comcast HD that is hooked up HDMI, and the Samsung outputs digital optical audio to the Sony Dream machine - which is a 5.1 sound system............but my dad will not hook up the rear speakers because he does not like them and he wont let me balance them........I can't argue with my Dad!

So basically, I think it works if you hook it up right but I do not know for sure..........but there is no lip sync problems with or without the Dream Machine (Sony sound) system playing.

dsl_steve

09-26-06, 11:25 AM

Any recs on antennas? Powered?

Jod :D

EDIT: ferrisg - Thanks, looks like the rat shack's got the Zenith ZHDTV1 (http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2457881&cp=2032057.2032187.2032189.2032204&pg=2&parentPage=family). I'll have to pick that up manana.

This Radio Shack antenna is getting great reviews:
Indoor VHF/UHF/HDTV Antenna with RF Remote Control (http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2131034&cp=&pg=2&origkw=antenna&kw=antenna&parentPage=search)

http://rsk.imageg.net/graphics/product_images/pRS1C-2326366w345.jpg

cvilletoday

09-26-06, 11:28 AM

Thanks houstonperson.

dsl_steve, don't even have the set yet, just trying to make sure my set-up will work if (okay, when) I buy it, but thanks. Good thought. I'll definitely mute the tv's speakers. Too bad they don't sell tvs with no speakers at a lower cost since I'll be running the sound through my HT setup. I'd spend the same money for more attention paid to picture than any sound at all.

dsl_steve

09-26-06, 11:35 AM

First and most annoying would be the lip sync when watching DVD's from the Sony Dream DAV-FC8. ....Any other settings to try?

Do you have the TV sets internal speakers set to mute? If you don't you'll get a time delayed effect with both speaker sets (TV & audio system) playing at once.

From the manual:
When using a device such as a Home Theater or Amplifier with external speakers, you can set Internal Mute to On to cut off sound from the TV’s internal speakers.

rosh400

09-26-06, 01:02 PM

rosh400

Mis Convergence affects the picture focus around the edges (last foot or so) around the picture.

While is fairly easy to see red, green, or blue outlines to letters. This is how mis-convergence can take away picture detail:

If you have PBS HD and you are look at hi-res desert scenes, with a zillion bits of sand and rocks, you can usually see that detail all the way to the edges of the screen on a DLP set. A HD live foot ball game would be the same way. If you have a shot of the entire stadium and all the people in the stands, you will see it crystal clear all the way out to the edges. Those sets that use 3 projection panels become blurred out and loose that crisp detail the last foot or so around the screen; that is because those 3 images are not in the exact same location on the screen.

HP,

Got it. Thanks for the clear explanation. Do you think convergence, if it exists, would be noticeable on a 46 inch panel? Does it exist on flat panel LCD's (would my XBR1 have it -- I've never noticed it)?

Couple of other questions.

From your orginal reply about Sony's handling poor quality signals better, are you saying that they would do a better job of displaying SD? What about 480i or 480p DVD?

From a reliability and customer service perspective, how do you think Sony matches up against Samsung?

Finally, can you comment on the Sony's black levels and shadow details?

I really appreciate all your help. AVS can be an intimidating place sometimes but folks like you are a great resource.

Thanks.

Rosh

HoustonPerson

09-26-06, 04:31 PM

HP,

Got it. Thanks for the clear explanation. Do you think convergence, if it exists, would be noticeable on a 46 inch panel? Does it exist on flat panel LCD's (would my XBR1 have it -- I've never noticed it)?

Couple of other questions.

From your orginal reply about Sony's handling poor quality signals better, are you saying that they would do a better job of displaying SD? What about 480i or 480p DVD?

From a reliability and customer service perspective, how do you think Sony matches up against Samsung?

Finally, can you comment on the Sony's black levels and shadow details?

I really appreciate all your help. AVS can be an intimidating place sometimes but folks like you are a great resource.

Thanks.

Rosh

All projection 3 panel LCD (or SXRD) will have some mis convergence. Last week I visited one of the newest Sony Style stores in our parts (just opened). In the 46" range it is very hard to see mis convergence on the sets I looked at. That is why I said they are now doing better in the area and they are! The larger sets 50" and particularly the 60" it is still easy for me to see several feet away (10' or more). Direct view LCD's do not have that problem; because it is just "one" panel.

IMO Sony does a great job with black levels on all their models. IMO they do a little better on the 720p sets vs. the Samsung 720p sets; because I believe ?? many of them use auto iris, to squeeze out more black. Conversely, virtually all Sony's have dark scene red push, which I think is a big minus. Dark browns like wood desk on Law and Order (as an example), will look like brown wood on the Samsung and the Sony right next to it will almost always be a strong dark red with almost no brown to it. To me, that red push offsets the benefit of the better blacks in the Sony. The Samsung 1080p sets IMO win top honors as far as blacks are concerned. To me they appear much better than the SXRD blacks.

Signal processing: Again this is my opinion: Sony can handle bad signals better than Samsung; such as, Extreme artifacts at the source, and the bad gremlins of compression. That applies to either SD of HD. Conversely, because the Samsung has less internal signal processing then the Sony (In My Opinion), then the high quality signals (SD or HD) can come through better on the Samsung. I am referring to digital signals of SD or HD, the questions of 480i or 480p or DVD is not relevant.

With todays current crop of TV I think Sony and Samsung are equals in regard to overall quality and reliability. Samsung makes the vast majority of Sony's LCD panels.

mplewis2

09-26-06, 05:23 PM

The only negative is that Best Buy is now selling the HL-S4666w for $1299!

That's a GREAT price on that TV and they are offering 2 years of 0% financing.

Oh well, I've been enjoying it for 6 weeks and only paid $50 more.

After lurking in this thread for what seems like years, I finally took the plunge and ordered myself a S4666w from the bookseller. $1199 shipped was too good to pass up. Should be here Friday.

TransAmLS1

09-26-06, 05:55 PM

Do you have the TV sets internal speakers set to mute? If you don't you'll get a time delayed effect with both speaker sets (TV & audio system) playing at once.

From the manual:
When using a device such as a Home Theater or Amplifier with external speakers, you can set Internal Mute to On to cut off sound from the TV’s internal speakers.Is there any difference in setting the internal mute and just turning the volume all the way down if you have the DVD player connected to the receiver via fiber?

dsl_steve

09-26-06, 07:17 PM

Is there any difference in setting the internal mute and just turning the volume all the way down if you have the DVD player connected to the receiver via fiber?

Volume down (to 0)is the same as internal mute.

munangst

09-26-06, 09:44 PM

If you set internal mute, the TV will reject attempts to adjust the volume and pop up a warning saying that you need to disable internal mute first. You can decide for yourself if that's a feature or a bug. :)

Alexmm

09-26-06, 11:08 PM

jodiuh

09-27-06, 04:00 AM

HoustonPerson:
Unfortunatlely the Sony does not have any sort of delay setting. Fortunately, switching to 480i may very well have fixed the issue. Not to mention decreasing the screen door effect to minimal amounts and you guessed it, increasing IQ. So far Batman Begins and Napoleon Dynamite seem to be doing well with the sync. I do get 50% signal strength on the PBS station, but apparently they're compressing the crap out it. :( The dream machine has it's issues...mainly locking up on occasioin and fighting me for discs. But I purchased it @ BB for about 20% selling price due to sticker error. :D

dsl_steve:
Thanks! I'll pick up both and check em out. Also, the tv speaks are on, but I don't see why I'd need to mute them. The Sony Dream's only connected via component. No audio cable...

Lucky Leeroy

09-27-06, 05:02 AM

I have a new Samsung HL-S4666W and I am looking for a Pronto TSU2000 .ccf for it.

Thanx in advance for any help you can give!

LEEROY

rosh400

09-27-06, 08:46 AM

All projection 3 panel LCD (or SXRD) will have some mis convergence. Last week I visited one of the newest Sony Style stores in our parts (just opened). In the 46" range it is very hard to see mis convergence on the sets I looked at. That is why I said they are now doing better in the area and they are! The larger sets 50" and particularly the 60" it is still easy for me to see several feet away (10' or more). Direct view LCD's do not have that problem; because it is just "one" panel.

IMO Sony does a great job with black levels on all their models. IMO they do a little better on the 720p sets vs. the Samsung 720p sets; because I believe ?? many of them use auto iris, to squeeze out more black. Conversely, virtually all Sony's have dark scene red push, which I think is a big minus. Dark browns like wood desk on Law and Order (as an example), will look like brown wood on the Samsung and the Sony right next to it will almost always be a strong dark red with almost no brown to it. To me, that red push offsets the benefit of the better blacks in the Sony. The Samsung 1080p sets IMO win top honors as far as blacks are concerned. To me they appear much better than the SXRD blacks.

Signal processing: Again this is my opinion: Sony can handle bad signals better than Samsung; such as, Extreme artifacts at the source, and the bad gremlins of compression. That applies to either SD of HD. Conversely, because the Samsung has less internal signal processing then the Sony (In My Opinion), then the high quality signals (SD or HD) can come through better on the Samsung. I am referring to digital signals of SD or HD, the questions of 480i or 480p or DVD is not relevant.

With todays current crop of TV I think Sony and Samsung are equals in regard to overall quality and reliability. Samsung makes the vast majority of Sony's LCD panels.

HP,

Thanks for your opinions. Your comments on blacks and red push are very helpful. At this point, I will have to do as much looking as I can and see which is more important, slightly better blacks or better color.

So as far as reliability is concerned, you don't think I should be concerned about the fact that DLP has moviing parts (color wheel) which might make it more susceptible to break down? What do you think?

Rosh

Theo-Prof

09-27-06, 09:53 AM

dsl_steve

09-27-06, 10:08 AM

Hello, I have been lurking here for several weeks and have decided to join as a member. I just purchased a 4266 and have been happy with it (no black grass, good blacks, late build date [Late July], has later software [I can adjust the hue on HDTV channels] actually marked as a 4266WX).

It was a long process to get to this point (Originally bought 2 LG 30" CRTs--both defective. Then I bought the Sony 34" 970--defective also. Finally settled on the 4266). Now I have a delimma; the price of the 4266 and the 4666 are currently the same price at BB (both cheaper than what I paid) and I am still within the 30-day return/exchange window with BB. Since I seem to have gotten a good 4266, should I risk trading up to the 4666? I am happy with the size of the 4266 (though bigger is certainly better). What I mostly want to know is whether switching to the 4666 will give me significantly better contrast and separation between darker tones. Or, I am wondering, if Samsung has addressed the black crush on the later production such that the difference will be negligible. (By the way, I will at least get BB to refund the difference in price from what I paid.)

Any advice will be appreciated.

Kevin

Boy, you've sure gone through a lot to get a good set. I would say if the 4266 has no problems, keep it and get the cash back.

On the other hand, if you don't mind playing the exchange game get the 4666 and be willing to have to exchange it if necessary. I have a HLS4266 that has a very small amount of black grass but a picture that is perfect in every way. I myself am not willing to do an exchange (for the black grass) because I might end up with no black grass but a compromised picture...*or* a DOA set for that matter (sh_t happens). I've even read a post of an August 06 build 4266 that still has a small amount of black grass so there's no guarantee I would even get a set without it. From what I can see with these sets, there can be large variations in picture quality from set to set and you have to be ready for that playing the exchange game. Just my $0.02.

Fripp

09-27-06, 10:52 AM

dsl_steve

09-27-06, 10:56 AM

I think I am going to pull the trigger and purchase the HL-S5086W.

Does anyone know where I can find the dimensions of the box for the 5086? I am trying to figure out if I can get it home in my Jeep Grand Cherokee, or if I need to have it delivered.

Thanks,

Josh

Samsung's web site has the box dimensions under specifications (I think) and also has pdf files showing the set dimensions.

zutmin

09-27-06, 11:06 AM

Finally got my HL-S4666W set up and the HD picture is absolutely stunning on the OTA HD channels. I am between 25-40 miles from my local stations but am still able to get HD OTA on CBS and ABC w/ basic rabbit ears setup. Cable (TWC) is being installed tomorrow so we'll see how the HD PQ compares over cable. May eventually get DirecTV (was acustomer for 10 years w/out HD) or Dish, but will give TWC a chance since there is no service committment for cable service.

For the time being I have settled on "Movie" mode (don't have the exact settings in front of me right now) and the picture looks better than the other settings on the set under most lighting conditions in my living room. Once I got my DVD player settings tweaked I am even getting a pretty sharp and detailed picture on the few DVDs I have played. Nowhere near the OTA HD quality but pretty damn good! I will likely be purchasing one of the Oppo DVD players in the near future.

I have also noticed that the PQ has improved significantly over the past few days without changing any of the settings. This has been a pleasant surprise for me. Maybe the set takes some time to break-in? I have had no problems with this set, no buzzing, no humming, no black grass, no spontaneous shut-offs, no RBE for me or my wife :), only slight SSE on analog feeds so far.

Considering the GREAT deal I got on this set from a certain Bookseller I am as happy as a pig in Sh*t!

jswanner

09-27-06, 11:07 AM

jswanner

09-27-06, 11:09 AM

My 5086 is scheduled to be delivered tomorrow, and I just noticed on Amazon that it's now $50 less than I paid for it.

dsl_steve

09-27-06, 11:36 AM

My 5086 is scheduled to be delivered tomorrow, and I just noticed on Amazon that it's now $50 less than I paid for it.

Call em. They'll refund the difference.

Theo-Prof

09-27-06, 11:40 AM

Boy, you've sure gone through a lot to get a good set. I would say if the 4266 has no problems, keep it and get the cash back.

On the other hand, if you don't mind playing the exchange game get the 4666 and be willing to have to exchange it if necessary. I have a HLS4266 that has a very small amount of black grass but a picture that is perfect in every way. I myself am not willing to do an exchange (for the black grass) because I might end up with no black grass but a compromised picture...*or* a DOA set for that matter (sh_t happens). I've even read a post of an August 06 build 4266 that still has a small amount of black grass so there's no guarantee I would even get a set without it. From what I can see with these sets, there can be large variations in picture quality from set to set and you have to be ready for that playing the exchange game. Just my $0.02.

The reason I am considering the 4666 is that I have heard of very few problems with these sets and that they generally have better contrast than the 4266 (which may well be a non-issue with the later build date versions). The 4666 does not suffer from the black grass, so this should be a non-issue.

On a slightly different topic, the only problem I have noticed with my 4266 is that after it has been on for about an hour, I sometimes hear a popping sound once or twice. It sounds like it might just be parts inside the cabinet expanding due to heat. My wife was the one who noticed it, and given the bad luck we have had so far, she is wondering whether we got another "dud." Has anyone else experienced the same thing? Should this be a concern for me? The set is otherwise VERY quiet--no color wheel or fan noise, except I can hear the color wheel briefly spinning-up when I first turn on the machine.

Kevin

dsl_steve

09-27-06, 11:46 AM

On a slightly different topic, the only problem I have noticed with my 4266 is that after it has been on for about an hour, I sometimes hear a popping sound once or twice. It sounds like it might just be parts inside the cabinet expanding due to heat.
Kevin

Its funny you've mentioned that because lately with the cold weather arriving I've heard it on mine 2 times when the room is very cold (65 F) first thing in the morning, about 1-2 mins after power ON. Never heard it before the last couple days. I'd call it more of a creak but its only 1 creak/pop, and you can only hear it if the volume is low and the room is very quiet. It doesn't happen if the room is 68 or higher though. And it doesn't happen after the set has warmed up either. I'm an EE and I can definitely say on mine it is something expanding--nothing to worry about.

[edit]
You have to realize that the bulb area of the set gets very warm and most likely is the cause of piece-parts expanding.

Fripp

09-27-06, 12:29 PM

The dimensions on Samsung's website are for the set itself, Fripp was asking about the box it comes in. Amazon's listed dimensions are larger, so perhaps that would the size of the box: 20.0 x 51.0 x 38.0 inches

Thanks Jswanner and Steve. Yeah, I checked the Samsung site and could only find the info for the dimensions of the set itself. I wanted to know about the size of the box (though I guess I could take the unit out of the box at the store and break down the box for easier transport). I guess will go with the Amazon numbers as a best guess.

Thanks again. Now off to measure the cabin of my Jeep :)

Regards,
J

cvilletoday

09-27-06, 12:39 PM

My 5086 is scheduled to be delivered tomorrow, and I just noticed on Amazon that it's now $50 less than I paid for it.

I bought the 5086 at BB last night and they price matched Bookseller so total w/ shipping and tax came to booksellers price with no tax and free shipping. It was so easy I feel like I should have gone lower, but I'll take it.

dsl_steve

09-27-06, 12:39 PM

Thanks Jswanner and Steve. Yeah, I checked the Samsung site and could only find the info for the dimensions of the set itself. I wanted to know about the size of the box (though I guess I could take the unit out of the box at the store and break down the box for easier transport). I guess will go with the Amazon numbers as a best guess.

Thanks again. Now off to measure the cabin of my Jeep :)

Regards,
J

You didn't look very close. There's a SIZE tab right under the set picture.

Size
Shippping Dimensions: 50"(W) x 37.6"(H) x 19.7"(D)
Shipping Weight: 78.3 Lbs.

surdev

09-27-06, 04:21 PM

I think I am going to pull the trigger and purchase the HL-S5086W.

Does anyone know where I can find the dimensions of the box for the 5086? I am trying to figure out if I can get it home in my Jeep Grand Cherokee, or if I need to have it delivered.

Thanks,

Josh

Same here, just got the WAF on this set HL-S5086W and I drive Jeep Grand Cherokee too... Good luck with your purchase.

pnear

09-27-06, 04:49 PM

Are there any codes that can get the hls4666w to go to a certain input? I will assume not. The remote just has a source toggle button but this becomes a real problem with Harmony remotes because the TV only goes to the input channels on which it senses input. From Component2 to Component1, the Harmony remotes will simulate 6 presses of source however in reality, you only have to press it twice because the TVs auto sensing will flip through TV then component1. Luckily, the number six is divisible by two so my input ends up on the right channel however this is quite annoying, especially when you end up on the wrong input.
I just went in to do some setup on my Harmony and it had all of the codes for selecting independent inputs for my TV. If the database for yours doesn't have the right codes, try using the codes for the HLS-6186W which certainly does have them.

Something also somewhat annoying is that I have analog cable and HDOTA. I have to go into the menu and switch the source from TV to cable to toggle between the coax inputs. I wish there was a button to switch the input source.
And actually the reason I saw your question about IR codes is because I came here to ask the same question. I called Samsung to ask them and they seemed to think that this television can't do AIR + CABLE without switching them in the settings menu. But during the conversation the same tech was shocked that you could get HDTV from an antenna so I didn't have much faith in her diagnosis.

If anyone knows of a way to get air and cable to act as independent sources it would be very much appreciated.

BigR

09-27-06, 06:33 PM

Bookseller is that an online store or a retailer like bb or cc?

TransAmLS1

09-27-06, 07:10 PM

Bookseller is that an online store or a retailer like bb or cc?Amazon. ;)

TransAmLS1

09-27-06, 07:13 PM

Doesn't the 5086 have known component video problems?

BigR

09-27-06, 08:17 PM

Thanks for the info on bookseller

RobFox68

09-27-06, 11:15 PM

These sets accept discrete input codes to go directly to individual inputs. There is also a discrete code that affects the RF inputs. As I recall it toggles between OTA and Cable In. Search around these forums and you'll find the codes; there's actually a list of the codes posted on the Samsung website.

I used an All-For-One remote to teach these to my Sony remote, but surely these are already available for download to the Harmony remotes. If you need help finding this info, let me know and I'll point you to it, but I gotta go to bed now. Hope this helps.

I just went in to do some setup on my Harmony and it had all of the codes for selecting independent inputs for my TV. If the database for yours doesn't have the right codes, try using the codes for the HLS-6186W which certainly does have them.

And actually the reason I saw your question about IR codes is because I came here to ask the same question. I called Samsung to ask them and they seemed to think that this television can't do AIR + CABLE without switching them in the settings menu. But during the conversation the same tech was shocked that you could get HDTV from an antenna so I didn't have much faith in her diagnosis.

If anyone knows of a way to get air and cable to act as independent sources it would be very much appreciated.

TU71

09-28-06, 09:30 AM

dsl_steve

09-28-06, 09:54 AM

My new HLS5086W has this wierd Green tint to it. All skin, black or white, has this green hue to it. Also my reds are more burgandy. I've tryied adjusting MyColorControl as well as all the other sliders and the strange green tint still persists.

It is getting its signal through component, the ones provided by the cable company. If anyone knows how to correct this issue or point me in the right direction please let me know.

Also, would this be corrected by using HDMI/DVI cables?

Any information will be much appreciated

Thanks!

Set the user controls to the following:

Digital NR - OFF
DNIe - Off
Mode - Movie
Contrast - 40
Brightness - 45
Sharpness - 0
Color - 45
Tint - G50/R50
Color Tone - Warm2

If the green tint still exits (you really should try some other input like DVD) the set requires a service call or exchange.

PJREDD

09-28-06, 11:42 AM

Same here, just got the WAF on this set HL-S5086W and I drive Jeep Grand Cherokee too... Good luck with your purchase.

I just brought home my new 5086 last night form CC, in a Jeep Wrangler! (had to leave the tailgate open a little and bungee it, but it fit). This thread was a HUGE HELP in my deciding to pull the trigger. :)

Got it home around 8:00, and was watching Lost in HD at 9:00. This set is Awesome! I was upgrading from a 2yr old Sammy 4663, and WOW!, what a difference. The difference in picture on this set out of the box with a few quick PQ adjustments compared to the 4663 (which I thought was pretty good) was amazing. DLP technology seems to have made some great improvements in a short time.

Question:
I am running my HTPC to the HDMI2 input with a dvi to hdmi cable at 1280 x 720 (adjusted for overscan thru the ATI software, and it looks great. I can adjust the edges to fit my screen this way, but the entire picture is off center both verticaly and horizontaly.

I thought I made this adjustment on my 4663 thru the service menu, but I can not remember where I found the info on doing this. Has anyone done this yet on these HL-Sxx86 sets?

TransAmLS1

09-28-06, 04:10 PM

My new HLS5086W has this wierd Green tint to it. All skin, black or white, has this green hue to it. Also my reds are more burgandy. I've tryied adjusting MyColorControl as well as all the other sliders and the strange green tint still persists.

It is getting its signal through component, the ones provided by the cable company. If anyone knows how to correct this issue or point me in the right direction please let me know.

Also, would this be corrected by using HDMI/DVI cables?

Any information will be much appreciated

Thanks!Check your connection. It sounds like a component input might be loose or not fitted properly.

Theo-Prof

09-28-06, 05:33 PM

I'd call it more of a creak but its only 1 creak/pop, and you can only hear it if the volume is low and the room is very quiet. It doesn't happen if the room is 68 or higher though. And it doesn't happen after the set has warmed up either. I'm an EE and I can definitely say on mine it is something expanding--nothing to worry about.

Yes. I would have to admit that a "creak" describes the sound very well. I do not think that the sound is anything to worry about.

I am still wondering if I would see a marked improvement in contrast if I went with the 4666. They are both rated at 2500:1, but everything I have read on this forum says that the 4666 is better in this regard. (No one in Dallas/Fort Worth carries the 4666 in stock so I can't check this out myself.) If I have a "good" 4266, would I benefit from switching? My family room is usually fairly bright, but only on the darkest scenes (dark suits on "Law and Order," ect.) do I wish that there was more separation of tones in the darker portions of the scene. I have ajusted the brightness some so that there is detail in dark scenes, and this does not seem to hurt the darkest portions too much. I hate to swap out another TV, but I think the prospect of much improved contrast on the 4666 would be worth it.

TransAmLS1

09-28-06, 07:02 PM

peter21ma

09-28-06, 10:25 PM

Hello, I have been lurking here for several weeks and have decided to join as a member. I just purchased a 4266 and have been happy with it (no black grass, good blacks, late build date [Late July], has later software [I can adjust the hue on HDTV channels] actually marked as a 4266WX).

It was a long process to get to this point (Originally bought 2 LG 30" CRTs--both defective. Then I bought the Sony 34" 970--defective also. Finally settled on the 4266). Now I have a delimma; the price of the 4266 and the 4666 are currently the same price at BB (both cheaper than what I paid) and I am still within the 30-day return/exchange window with BB. Since I seem to have gotten a good 4266, should I risk trading up to the 4666? I am happy with the size of the 4266 (though bigger is certainly better). What I mostly want to know is whether switching to the 4666 will give me significantly better contrast and separation between darker tones. Or, I am wondering, if Samsung has addressed the black crush on the later production such that the difference will be negligible. (By the way, I will at least get BB to refund the difference in price from what I paid.)

Any advice will be appreciated.

Kevin

I say go for the 46. I had the 42 and was sick of black grass. The image on the 46 is great - even better than the 42 in my opinion. I feel like I have more TV for the money, and it makes the viewing experience more compelling. I am very happy with the 46. And no black grass, crush, or whatever else has plagued the 42.

scotts8826

09-29-06, 06:52 AM

I pick up my new Samsung 5086 in a couple of days. I'm trying to plan ahead so my enthusiasm isn't crushed as I set up my new tv. I imagine I can figure out which cables I should have on hand but I thought I'd ask the question anyway.

First off, my cable company is Comcast. Will they provide an HDMI cable to connect their box to my set or do I need to have one already? Since I have two HDMI ports, I thought I would connect the DVD player into the second one. So, potentially two HDMI cables?

I also will be buying an XBOX 360 (might as well go all the way on this new entertainment system!). Does this console system come with a component cable or do I need to buy one? Next up is my sound system. Will I be connecting it by component cable or something else?

I know that Monoprice is a great place to buy cables. I have a few days so I can order online. However, is there a national retail vendor that anyone would recommend if I start hooking up my system and find I need yet one more cable?

Thanks,

Scott

dsl_steve

09-29-06, 07:54 AM

Yes. I would have to admit that a "creak" describes the sound very well. I do not think that the sound is anything to worry about.

I am still wondering if I would see a marked improvement in contrast if I went with the 4666. They are both rated at 2500:1, but everything I have read on this forum says that the 4666 is better in this regard. (No one in Dallas/Fort Worth carries the 4666 in stock so I can't check this out myself.) If I have a "good" 4266, would I benefit from switching? My family room is usually fairly bright, but only on the darkest scenes (dark suits on "Law and Order," ect.) do I wish that there was more separation of tones in the darker portions of the scene. I have ajusted the brightness some so that there is detail in dark scenes, and this does not seem to hurt the darkest portions too much. I hate to swap out another TV, but I think the prospect of much improved contrast on the 4666 would be worth it.

What you read in these threads does not represent the status quo of any particular model set. Your just seeing people who are generally trying to find out if the imperfection they found on their set is normal or not. If you followed the HoustonPerson 4266 saga you’ll find that when he said his 4266 did not make blacks as well as a 4666 (the rumor started here), what he didn't know was his 4266 was defective. After 4 sets he finally got a good 4266 and modified his original statement regarding the 4266/4666 ‘blacks and black detail' comment as follows...

[HoustonPerson quote]

…. the current production (August and after) of the 42" is 99% the same as 46" model regarding blacks detail.

....you'll have to look and decide for yourself.

pnear

09-29-06, 08:22 AM

I also will be buying an XBOX 360 (might as well go all the way on this new entertainment system!). Does this console system come with a component cable or do I need to buy one? Next up is my sound system. Will I be connecting it by component cable or something else?

The 360 comes with a component cable, yes. I however bought a VGA cable for my system because:
1. The 360 will upconvert DVDs when using a VGA cable. With component it does 480p for DVDs only. Both do high-def for games.
2. I had some pretty big overscan issues on my HLS6181W when using component. With th VGA cable set to 1360x768 I can fine-tune the picture to fit the screen exactly.

Both cables include an optical out port for the audio, but you'll need to buy an optical cable (just a standard optical cable, nothing XBox proprietary there).

Pete

rosh400

09-29-06, 09:29 AM

Theo-Prof

09-29-06, 11:16 AM

It's worth it. Do you mean no one has the TV on display?

I got my 4666w from a Best Buy in Dallas...

I have looked everywhere in Fort Worth and Arlington (BB, CC, etc.) and I can't find anyone who has the 46" on display. They have them in the warehouse however. I haven't checked in the past week or so, so i'll go back and check.

I am happy with the 4266 I have. It does seem to have good contrast. I just wanted to make sure that the 4666 would not be a significant improvement. Mine is a late build date and seems not to exhibit any of the problems I have seen mentioned on this thread. So, perhaps I should leave well enough alone.

Kevin

dsl_steve

09-29-06, 11:23 AM

....So, perhaps I should leave well enough alone.

Kevin

That's what I'm doing with my 4266. And I have a small amount of the black grass as-well.

cvilletoday

09-29-06, 01:52 PM

Hey all
Just got a new 5086 and I have a couple of questions. Read most of this thread so if the answers to my questions are in the thread lemme know and I'll search. Here's my situation:
I have digital cable but my local provider has NO HD stations (I live in Bedrock) but I live within visual sight of the OTA transmitters so I was going to get HD OTA and use digital cable for all other stations (and just toggle between the two). My cable box has HDMI but my question is how do you guys advise I set this up? Antenna to the antenna port via coax I assume (any choice there?) but what about the cable box? HDMI? Sound will go to my receiver via optical. thanks in advance. You guys ROCK

ProV1x

09-29-06, 03:13 PM

CRIKEY!!!! i ordered my 6186W from AXXXXN bookseller on 9/8, and i just found out that the price of this TV has gone down by a friggin ONE BENJAMIN!! arggghh

but i'm happy to report that this TV KICKS arse, it's amazing. I watched Troy in awe the whole time. I like the factory setting of "Standard" and with "DNIe" turn on. Movie mode is too dark for me.

Theo-Prof

09-29-06, 04:55 PM

Movie mode is too dark for me.

Not only did I find movie mode too dark as well, it is far too warm for my tastes. I increased brightness some and watch it in either neutral or cool-1. I used to work in a phote lab some years ago. Movie mode reminds me of how some Kodak films can be TOO warm.

dcorban

09-29-06, 11:57 PM

I received my HL-S5066W this week and I have a few comments:

Anyone who says there is no lag when playing games (480i games, anyway) on this thing is wrong. The first game I tried was Guitar Hero (PS2 via component) and it was completely unplayable. I turned "game mode" on and the timing feels fine.

The viewing angles are a little tight for my taste. Everything looks great when I am sitting on my couch directly in front of it at about 9 feet. If I stand up in that spot (like when I am playing Guitar Hero), there is a huge drop in brightness. I also noticed that it is less sensitive to low vertical angles. In other words, I can sit on the floor and it looks fine, but standing up the same distance ruins the image. The image doesn't seem to be consistant across the whole screen. It reminds me of how with LCD monitors, you can never get a perfect spot where the whole screen is the same brightness, there are always darker spots. I was expecting a more rock-solid image from DLP.

The TV is completely silent. When first turning it on, I can hear the fan/wheel spin up, but after that, total silence.

My screen has some sort of damage on the inside. It looks like a dirty spot about 1cm in diameter on the screen near the bottom. It is in between the displayed image and the outside screen. It's very annoying and I plan on setting up an exchange with the store tomorrow.

Someone here mentioned that they have never heard anyone say their TV is too big. Well, make me the first. When I was originally shopping for a set, I planned on getting a 46". This 50" was cheaper than the 46" so it made no sense to go smaller. 50" seems to be just a tad too big. I imagine I will quickly get used to it.

The VGA input works great. "PC wide" mode and the autoadjust feature made hooking up my HTPC foolproof. I just hooked up the cable and set the PC resolution to 1280x720. Instant enjoyment with no overscan or manual adjusting of the image position.

I really really really wish that this set had per-input setting memory. It appears to save settings per-input-type, which makes for extra digging through the menus.

I am looking forward to how things look once I hook up the upconverting DVD player and calibrate with Avia!

jodiuh

09-30-06, 04:25 AM

...Now about the SDE, maybe I got my terminology wrong, so I'll try to explain what I see. Its very noticable with light colors like white or baby blue, instead of a solid color there is like a mesh or grain thats visible, and its not part of the video because it doesnt move with the colors but stays in the same place.
From what you are explaining it sounds like silk screen effect (SSE) which is common in in both DLP's and LCD rear projection TV's. Screen Door Effect is just what it says. It looks like you are lookin through a door or window screen and see all the little squares.
Anyone else has Silk screen effect on their 720p DLP's ?
I have this exact problem. It seems to be worse with older DVD's. ID4 looked as if the lens were dirty! Viewing distance is about 9ft. Is this normal guys? What technology doesn't have this issue? Plasma?

I bought the 5086 at BB last night and they price matched Bookseller so total w/ shipping and tax came to booksellers price with no tax and free shipping. It was so easy I feel like I should have gone lower, but I'll take it.
This confuses me. You paid less or more in total from BB than you would have from AZ? Also, how did you get them to PM online?!

So as far as reliability is concerned, you don't think I should be concerned about the fact that DLP has moviing parts (color wheel) which might make it more susceptible to break down? What do you think?
Unfortunately, I didn't purchase my set from Sam or Costco either. Did you guys buy warrantys? Should I be worried?

RichSheikh

09-30-06, 07:52 AM

>>>I have looked everywhere in Fort Worth and Arlington (BB, CC, etc.) and I can't find anyone who has the 46" on display. They have them in the warehouse however. I haven't checked in the past week or so, so i'll go back and check.

I am happy with the 4266 I have. It does seem to have good contrast. I just wanted to make sure that the 4666 would not be a significant improvement. Mine is a late build date and seems not to exhibit any of the problems I have seen mentioned on this thread. So, perhaps I should leave well enough alone.

Kevin<<<

Kevin, I thought the same thing when I bought my 4266. We traded it up to the 4666 and wow are we glad. The picture is much better, the blacks are blacker, no black grass at all and the increase in size was welcomed. We bought the 4666 from BB. They have many of them in the wherehouse. I think the 4666 may be the best of all the Samsung DLP's.

cvilletoday

09-30-06, 12:08 PM

QUOTE: This confuses me. You paid less or more in total from BB than you would have from AZ? Also, how did you get them to PM online?!

Price I paid for the TV was lowered to the point that including tax (which the store had to charge) and shipping in the total equalled what the bookseller total cost was. So in the end, the cost of getting the tv to my house and paid for was the same as online. I just asked them to match the price. No resistance at all. I got the feeling that if I came back and talked to another salesperson/manager it may have been a different story. The store was quiet, not much business at that point. Maybe they just wanted a sale.

Regarding the tv, I love it. SD is far better than I thought it would be. Huge variation in DVD quality. I put in "Air Force One" and it was really grainy. I put in "Lord of the Rings" and it was fantastic. HD OTA, especially PBS, is phenomenal. Question: where do I set the res on my dvd (480i, 480p etc) for best quality. It is an upconverte with progressive scan.

Downside: Huge variation in sound delay. On some dvds it's far worse than others. On some tv stations, its far worse than others. Sometimes to such a slight degree that I don't notice it unless I'm looking for it and other times very noticeable. My receiver has a limited delay setting and not enough to compensate completely. I've hooked it up via HDMI to the tv, then out to my receiver via optical, and also via HDMI for image to the tv and then optical directly from the dvd to my receiver and both give a delay. My question is. wouldn't you consider this a fairly large problem if you can't hook up peripheral devices without a sound delay? Many posters seem to just put up with it but to me it seems to be a big issue. As I said, I'm blown away by the picture and the delay is not constant but do I put up with it? Return the set? Is mine defective?

Sorry for the long post. Has anyone found an ideal hookup that eliminates this problem?

Kevinw

09-30-06, 02:38 PM

Hey all
I have digital cable but my local provider has NO HD stations (I live in Bedrock) but I live within visual sight of the OTA transmitters so I was going to get HD OTA and use digital cable for all other stations (and just toggle between the two). My cable box has HDMI but my question is how do you guys advise I set this up? Antenna to the antenna port via coax I assume (any choice there?) but what about the cable box? HDMI? Sound will go to my receiver via optical. thanks in advance. You guys ROCK
Yes for the OTA antenna. I would doubt your cable box has a HDMI or DVi output if your provider does not have any HD???? Or am I assuming wrong and you have HD but not locals? If so HDMI or component from the STB will work just fine.

Kevinw

09-30-06, 02:42 PM

Doesn't the 5086 have known component video problems?
What are they? I have no problems using component.

Kevinw

09-30-06, 02:47 PM

My new HLS5086W has this wierd Green tint to it. All skin, black or white, has this green hue to it. Also my reds are more burgandy. I've tryied adjusting MyColorControl as well as all the other sliders and the strange green tint still persists.

It is getting its signal through component, the ones provided by the cable company. If anyone knows how to correct this issue or point me in the right direction please let me know.

Also, would this be corrected by using HDMI/DVI cables?

Any information will be much appreciated

Thanks!
look at page 68 in your manual on color weakness. move the green 2-3 clicks untill the green tint is gone.
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/search.php?searchid=13067402

cvilletoday

09-30-06, 02:55 PM

Yes for the OTA antenna. I would doubt your cable box has a HDMI or DVi output if your provider does not have any HD???? Or am I assuming wrong and you have HD but not locals? If so HDMI or component from the STB will work just fine.

Thanks kevinw. Actually my cable box has HDMI but local cable company carries no HD channels. Unbelievable I know.

Kevinw

09-30-06, 03:07 PM

Thanks kevinw. Actually my cable box has HDMI but local cable company carries no HD channels. Unbelievable I know.
I would make sure it is an active port. wit out HD there is no reason to have it working. I'd call your provider. OR get DISH so you can have HD :)

cvilletoday

09-30-06, 03:49 PM

I would make sure it is an active port. wit out HD there is no reason to have it working. I'd call your provider. OR get DISH so you can have HD :)

Great thought. I just checked it and you're right. Never would have thought of that. Thanks very much, you saved me from buying a second HDMI cable.

Any thoughts about the audio sync issue I mentioned in my earlier post?

jodiuh

09-30-06, 05:37 PM

Question: where do I set the res on my dvd (480i, 480p etc) for best quality. It is an upconverte with progressive scan.

Downside: Huge variation in sound delay.

The Dream system I have has a switch to go from Interlace to Manual (Inter or Prog through the menu). Interlace seems to alleviate most of the lip sync issues. Tho they are still there.

On a bummer note, I'll be returning the set and most likely not getting another TV until I can figure out this SDE/SSE. Watching Leno/Conan last night only to see "cobweb, sparkly, dirt" on Harland William's pants made the decision much easier. It's all over light colored scenes. And I had almost full signal strength. Is it so hard to find a TV that looks like a Dell Truelife notebook? Or the NEC 20WMGX2?

jjdurrant

09-30-06, 07:58 PM

Hey guys -

I have the HL-S5686W DLP TV with the BP59-00107A remote. I am trying to get my remote to run my Samsung HT-P1200 DVD Home Theatre system. Can you tell me which code to use?

I tried some from the manual, but nothing has worked. Samsung was no help either.

Thanks, Justin

Frank_K

10-01-06, 08:46 AM

OK, so just how are you all finding the 4266 on standard definition cable channels?
I have been considering this TV, but when I've looked in the stores (like yesterday - looking at CC's Direct TV feed), although this particular model looked better than any of the other DLP sets, it doesn't seen to hold candle to a CRT direct view (especially the Sony 32FS170).
The picture did not seem smooth, but blotchy, and unsharp. It did not look "real".

Since app. 90% of my viewing wil still be SD channels, via Comcast digital cable, I now think I would be better off with that Sony CRT thant this 42" Samsung DLP. That Sony has a crisp, clear picture, although a hideous silver cabinet.

Or is it possible that CC's Direct TV feed is just really bad and didn't get an accurate representation of what the 4266 is capable of?

RobFox68

10-01-06, 09:00 AM

andis8853

10-02-06, 03:47 AM

Hi,

Newbie here...and new to HD! Please bear with my lengthy post.

I just received my 5086W yesterday and am still waiting to get my HD upgrade from Dish Network.

In the meantime, doing comparisons between the different channels in non-HD format. What I'm finding is that the local channels are of lower quality than those that subscribers to cable & dish get. Sunday night football looked very pixilated.

Of course, I'm assuming that when my HD is activated (including the local channels) I'll be pleased.

I've just gotten finished reading all 25 pages of this thread (whew...not a quick feat) and have some questions....

What are visual artifacts?

Someone earlier on mentioned the "claymation" effect? Can someone describe that? Tonight when I was watching Desperate Housewives there were multiple occurances of large blocks of color. For example, the various fleshtones one would see did not blend seamlessly on the face. To me I would describe it as "paint-by-numbers" where there was a definite delimination of color blocks for hollows of the cheeks, highlight of the brow and jaw, etc. Does that make sense to anyone? Is this what someone meant by "claymation"?

This was not consistent across all channels.

Also, I'm sitting 11' away, and anyone sitting on my loveseat will be sitting 8-10'-ish away. I'm wondering if I've purchased a set that is too big for my viewing distance.

Would I perhaps be happier with PQ on the 4666 set considering the distance? I know that probably sounds like a strange question because the pricing I'm finding is similar and the set size is very close. But...all that aside, I want to be happy with what I'm seeing. I'd be hesitant on the 4266 after reading about it here.

Any and all feedback and recommendations are appreciated.

Thanks!

rick*r!

10-02-06, 01:42 PM

They all look awful on SD, especially right after you switch from HD. The smaller the screen, the less you notice how awful SD is. I'm watching awful quality SD right now on my 4266, and it looks awful, but it's not the set's fault.
I'd have to agree with this for the most part as well. I have the 4266 and RCN SD cable and OTA HD. It pains me to switch back to SD. But, that said, it seems very broadcast dependent. Sometimes, an SD broadcast can look pretty darn good in comparison to other SD broadcasts.

Before I got the sammy, I had a 32inch toshiba crt, and when I switched from Comcast SD to RCN HD I was amazed at how much better the RCN picture looked on my tv. Then I got the sammy and was shocked at how such a great image on my Toshibas CRT dropped so significantly in PQ.

I'll upgrade to RCN HD soon, but my tv is mainly used for watching dvds, so I've been in no rush.

rufusrex

10-02-06, 02:27 PM

Hi,

Also, I'm sitting 11' away, and anyone sitting on my loveseat will be sitting 8-10'-ish away. I'm wondering if I've purchased a set that is too big for my viewing distance.

Would I perhaps be happier with PQ on the 4666 set considering the distance? I know that probably sounds like a strange question because the pricing I'm finding is similar and the set size is very close. But...all that aside, I want to be happy with what I'm seeing. I'd be hesitant on the 4266 after reading about it here.

Any and all feedback and recommendations are appreciated.

Thanks!

I think I may be in the same boat as you. I just bought the same TV and am sitting only about 6'-7' away and am not happy with the picture. It looks like crap. Is the TV simply too large for my room? It was only about $120 more than the 42" and I couldn't pass it up. But watching football on regular cable made me think I made a huge mistake, it was bad. I had to go to bed and watch it on my 11 year old 27" Toshiba, and it looked awesome compared to my new TV. DVDs didn't look any better, still very grainy. My old 35" RCA direct view looked better.

andis8853

10-02-06, 05:47 PM

Hi,

Thanks for the feedback. I know that there are calculations out there for distance vs. size, but was wondering how it turned out in a real-life situation.

Any and all feedback welcome!

Kevinw

10-02-06, 08:24 PM

Have any of you with PQ issues adjusted your contrast or brightness?
A 50 In is ok at 8 ft or more. Ii have Dish and OTA. As long as I have a good signal the PQ is great. Over half of bad PQ is from a bad signal and a poorly set up TV.

Net4surfer

10-03-06, 01:34 AM

Hi,

Thanks for the feedback. I know that there are calculations out there for distance vs. size, but was wondering how it turned out in a real-life situation.

Any and all feedback welcome!

I was having the same problem for a while but with a full HD setup on the tv I am def sticking with the 5086. I have the TV set up so that it's in the corner of the room. The couch facing it makes it so one person is about 6.5 feet while the other person on the end is about 8 feet. I also have a futon which is about 9 feet away. Ok, enough about the spacing setup. What do you have hooked up to the TV, because whatever signal you are displaying is going to make a HUGE difference. I have the Comcast DVR box with the HD hookup and about 40 HD channels. NOTE: (for those of you with Comcast HD boxes, you can change the video settings by pressing the menu button while the box is off. You will then be able to change how the SD channels are viewed either by normal, 4:3, or stretch. You will also be able to change what def the cable comes in at, either 420p, 720p, or 1080i which is what I have it set as since most of the HD channels are broadcasted in 1080i.) I have the tv connected via HDMI,(note: component works just as well for anyone who isn't a veteran videophile), to the cable box. From that close, Standard definition channels look like crap... However, the 40 or so HD channels look amazing from all three distances I have set up. Keep in mind even some of the HD channels will have some significant differences in quality. For instance the Discovery HD channel has hands down the best HD signal broadcasting on TV. When you watch one of the shows on the Discovery Channel in HD on that 50inch screen... well you just know you've made the right decision. So, yes, there is a trade off, from that close Standard Definition tv doesn't look that great, but any HD programming looks amazing and its worth it. It also depends on how long you plan on keeping the tv. If it's a long term investment, keep in mind that more HD channels will be coming and the HD signal will get better. Also you may move or change your room around and it's always better to have a bigger tv than a smaller one for a problem. But all in all, I would rather have the 50 inch from any of those distances for HD football games on Sundays when I have people over and put up with the mediocre SD channels when I watch the daily show or something not on network HD, HBO HD, ESPN HD, and Discovery HD which covers most of what I watch.

As far as my dvd experience on this tv is concerned, I have the Sony DVP-NS75H DVD Single Disc Player with the HDMI. I only paid 100 bucks for it, thinking that the HDMI and progressive scan would make the dvd's come out in high def and look great. But the reality is, my crouching tiger hidden dragon from 8 years ago, before HD, won't come in HD even with the setup. You will need to invest in a Blu-Ray or HD-DVD player with Blu-Ray or HD-DVDs for it to look like what you bought your tv to do. Although, I will admit newer movies like Star Wars Revenge of the Sith look great. Not quite Discovery HD quality, but much better than my older dvd's like Crouching Tiger or Braveheart.

I hope this gave you some insight to the 5086 and my experiences with it thus far. I also saved about 800 bucks and bought this tv refurbished. I was a little scared to do so, but it worked great with no problems, and with the money I saved bought a 5 year extended warranty, and full surround sound system.

And finally, for those who complained about the Movie mode being too dark. I couldn't agree more. I tried Eliab's settings and it was just too dark. These are what I use now:

Mode : Standard
Digital NR: On
Dnie: On
Contrast: 62
Brightness: 50
Sharpness: 0 (note: I have heard as is on my tv, that changing this has no effect and it's permanently set to a factory default)
Color: 50
Tint: 50
Color Tone: Normal

(note: settings will def be different for every model and for every person for sure)
Sorry for the long post guys. I hope this was insightful.

cvilletoday

10-03-06, 08:11 AM

rufusrex

10-03-06, 11:04 AM

Can someone tell me how to access the service menu on the HLS-5086W? I did a search of this thread and came up empty. Sorry if I missed it somehwere else.

I have a crappy old Mustek DVD player and am not happy with the picture. I was gonna pick up a Sony DVP-NS75H tonight and try it out. Net4surfer, how would you say the PQ is? I know you said it's not quite HD, but is it still good? The Mustek I am using leaves a lot to be desired, but it was only $30. I guess you get what you pay for. Are there any other models you guys recommend? I've read good stuff about Oppo, but really wanted to buy the player locally.

Also, I'm still on the fence about keeping the 5086 or taking it back for a 42" DLP or even a 42" plasma. My room is kind of small, I'm about 6 -7 feet away. My SD channels all look awful, but I believe the problem is a weak signal from Time Warner. They will be at my home Thursday and hopefully will boost the signal. I got an outsatnding deal on the 50" so I kind of want to keep it, but I fear it may simply be too big for the room.

Thanks for all your help.

Net4surfer

10-03-06, 04:57 PM

Thanks Net4surfer. Are you saying that if I have a standard progressive scan up-convert dvd with HDMI and I play an HD DVD it'll be in hi def or do I need the HD dvd player as well?

Also, I know I keep bringing it up but is there a general consensus about the sound delay? I've realized that it mostly only occurs when I play audio through my stereo setup and much less so to not at all when the sound comes through the tv. Any others find the same thing? i only ask because I wonder if I should return the set for another one but I won't bother if this is just how the system works. Thanks

You would need to buy an HD DVD player to play HD dvds and the same for Blu-Ray. I have heard that the Toshiba HD-A1 HD DVD player is the best but I don't have any personal experience with it. As far as the Sony DVP-S75 is concerned I have found that for some dvds it makes a large difference and for some none at all. But for the small difference even for some dvds makes it worth it. Plus it's one of the cheapest, best performing, HDMI dvd players out there. If you have the 400-600 bucks to buy an HD DVD player than do it, because it does have backwards compatibility, so it will play regular dvds and upconvert them, but for a budget shopper like myself, the Sony will work fine as long as you have it connected via HDMI.

GreyWolf050

10-03-06, 09:18 PM

...with luck but aren't too smart , being both I know this to be an incontrovertible fact, here's my dumb luck story ;-)

I received a much anticapated HLS5686 delivery this morning. I bought the TV on-line from the big 'A' at a good price with free delivery. I had done much in the way of preparation, I built a stand from a couple of 28" deep x 18" dia buckets which I screwed to a couple of 1x10x6 pieces of shiplap and used an old wool throw I had as a drape, an instant and cheap stand.

Eagle was the delivery carrier. They sent two men and they carried the TV into my living room, uncrated it, put it on the stand, connected the power cord, fired up the TV and took the packaging away. I was pleasently surprised as I've had several curbside deliveries that were just that, props to Eagle. I'm a scrooge but I just had to give the guys 20 bucks for the no-hassle, no charge delivery.

Now I'm alone with my brand spankin' new big screen TV and the fun begins...

I had run all the cables from the various devices, component and hdmi from the cable box, component from the DVD player and hdmi from the 'puter to the TV's location. I connected all the cables, fired the TV and the picture SUCKED!¡! Major Green all over the screen from the component cable box inputs, hdmi from the box was inverse color and the picture wouldn't stabilize but the picture from the 'puter was flawless.

I spent a couple of hours playing with the various settings, concentrating on the cable box component input to no avail, the picture was good but had a green thing. I gave up an decided I wuld call Samsung tomorrow to schedule service.

I had a couple of beers and realized I had not connected the cable feed so before I cursed the TV again I decided to do a basic cable channel scan. When I reached behind the cable box to find the feed, a bright flash caught my eye...there was good display on the screen!¡! One of the component cables was loose, two hours of needless frustration.

I'm now watching the Yankee game and the picture is fantastic! I can see individual blades of grass when the show a closeup.

The hdmi feed from the box is still unwatchable, any idea's on that?

/Grey