View Full Version : Samsung 720p Owner's Thread --- HLSxx66W/HLSxx86W DLP Models
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Hey all,
Picked up an HLS5086W at Fry's last week - got a heck of a deal on it. Looks like I might be taking it back though. :( Seems I'm a rainbow sufferer (curse my sensitive eyes). I don't see them all the time, thank goodness. But I catch them fairly often when I'm watching, and I think it's causing eyestrain. I've had an almost constant headache since I bought the thing and started using it.
I've decided to give it till next weekend, and if it's not better by then, I'm sorry to say this wonderful set is going to have to go back. Given my budget constraints, I'll then have to settle for a smaller LCD or Plasma. Probably a 37". Anyone have any suggestions, or is this just the curse of DLP?
rascaljack 01-21-07, 01:46 AM Hey guys,
I've been reading the thread and looking at some reviews and I have some questions that I hope you can answer for me (or at least provide me with some guidance).
1) Is there a difference between the HLS5086WX and the HLS5086W models? Best Buy is selling the WX and Amazon is selling the W model.
2) How much do replacement bulbs cost for this model? The reason I ask is because the 4 year service plan is about $250 for both Amazon and Best Buy.
3) Does a Monster PowerCenter improve the picture enough to be worth the money? And how much protection (joules) is really necessary?
4) For a 720p TV is HDMI cables provide that much clearer picture then component cables?
5) In order to get OTA local HD channels, would I need to purchase a HD antenna, or is a regular antenna suitable?
I'm sorry if these questions are repeats, I've read a lot of this thread but I didn't see my questions addressed in earlier posts.
In case it matters I haven't decided on a service provider yet (cable, SAT, etc) but we won't be ordering the HD programming because we can't afford it (but yes we can afford a TV I've been saving for a while) and most of our viewing will be with SDTV and DVD's (probably get the Samsung upconvering DVD player).
Thanks
Tnedator 01-21-07, 02:41 AM Hey guys,
I've been reading the thread and looking at some reviews and I have some questions that I hope you can answer for me (or at least provide me with some guidance).
1) Is there a difference between the HLS5086WX and the HLS5086W models? Best Buy is selling the WX and Amazon is selling the W model.
2) How much do replacement bulbs cost for this model? The reason I ask is because the 4 year service plan is about $250 for both Amazon and Best Buy.
3) Does a Monster PowerCenter improve the picture enough to be worth the money? And how much protection (joules) is really necessary?
I can't help much on the first three. I was not aware of the X model. I believe the bulb is going to be roughly $250, but am not 100% sure about that. It is rated for 5000 hours, which can be between 2 and 4 years depending on your usage.
I am not familiar with the Best Buy warranty, but you should make sure that 1. it covers one or more bulbs and 2. whether it covers only a bulb failure or also a bulb that has dimmed to the point of needing to be replaced prior to failing.
4) For a 720p TV is HDMI cables provide that much clearer picture then component cables?
Opinions vary on this, but I could not tell much of a difference between component and HDMI, or between 1080i and 720p sources.
5) In order to get OTA local HD channels, would I need to purchase a HD antenna, or is a regular antenna suitable?
An antenna is an antenna. Some are labled as HD, but that is just marketing. What is important is to get an antenna that is designed for the range (how far you are from the broadcast towers) and frequencies/bands that you want to pickup. In most parts of the country, HD channels are broadcast on UHF, because all of the VHF frequencies are occupied by analog stations. I happen to live in one of the few places that has several networks broadcasting HD VHF, but from what I have read that is unusual.
Go to http://www.antennaweb.org/aw/Address.aspx and enter your address and it will list the band (VHF/UHF), channel, direction and distance to the HD channels in your area, and it will recommend the color code (industry designation for range of antenna) that you will need to buy.
There is also a forum on AVS where HD reception and antennas are discussed and you can get a lot of help there.
In case it matters I haven't decided on a service provider yet (cable, SAT, etc) but we won't be ordering the HD programming because we can't afford it (but yes we can afford a TV I've been saving for a while) and most of our viewing will be with SDTV and DVD's (probably get the Samsung upconvering DVD player).
If you are close enough to pick up HD over the air (OTA), then you will still get to experience the network programming in HD.
Just and FYI if you haven't read about it yet, but DirecTV (and possibly Dish) broadcast what some call HD-Lite. Rather than broadcasting 1080i as 1920x1080, they broadcast at 1280 x 1080i. DirecTV claims that this does not adversly effect the picture, but since I have only watched DirecTV HD and some HD-DVD's, I can't offer a personal opinion on this. Many people don't feel DirecTV's HD feeds are true HD, because of the resolution they broadcast.
All I can say is that the DirecTV HD broadcasts are light years beyond SD programming.
rascaljack 01-21-07, 03:04 AM I can't help much on the first three. I was not aware of the X model. I believe the bulb is going to be roughly $250, but am not 100% sure about that. It is rated for 5000 hours, which can be between 2 and 4 years depending on your usage.
I am not familiar with the Best Buy warranty, but you should make sure that 1. it covers one or more bulbs and 2. whether it covers only a bulb failure or also a bulb that has dimmed to the point of needing to be replaced prior to failing.
I'll make sure and look at the warranty closely on both Best Buy and Amazon.
Opinions vary on this, but I could not tell much of a difference between component and HDMI, or between 1080i and 720p sources.
I'll probably just do component first, and if the picture quality isn't what I think it should be I'll upgrade to HDMI. Just noticed however that the Samsung DVD player I was looking only has an HDMI output.
An antenna is an antenna. Some are labled as HD, but that is just marketing. What is important is to get an antenna that is designed for the range (how far you are from the broadcast towers) and frequencies/bands that you want to pickup. In most parts of the country, HD channels are broadcast on UHF, because all of the VHF frequencies are occupied by analog stations. I happen to live in one of the few places that has several networks broadcasting HD VHF, but from what I have read that is unusual.
Go to *website* and enter your address and it will list the band (VHF/UHF), channel, direction and distance to the HD channels in your area, and it will recommend the color code (industry designation for range of antenna) that you will need to buy.
There is also a forum on AVS where HD reception and antennas are discussed and you can get a lot of help there.
If you are close enough to pick up HD over the air (OTA), then you will still get to experience the network programming in HD.
That's a cool link. Looks like all of my stations are in the yellow category, but ABC is VHF, while the rest x.1 stations are UHF. They are all pretty close too (less then 8 miles).
Just and FYI if you haven't read about it yet, but DirecTV (and possibly Dish) broadcast what some call HD-Lite. Rather than broadcasting 1080i as 1920x1080, they broadcast at 1280 x 1080i. DirecTV claims that this does not adversly effect the picture, but since I have only watched DirecTV HD and some HD-DVD's, I can't offer a personal opinion on this. Many people don't feel DirecTV's HD feeds are true HD, because of the resolution they broadcast.
All I can say is that the DirecTV HD broadcasts are light years beyond SD programming.
Yeah I found that out after talking to my brother-in-law who use to work for Dish. Suprised they haven't been blasted by Dish and cable companies for that as a marketing point.
Thanks for your response I appreciate it.
If anybody else can help address my first three questions I would greatly appreciate it.
Thanks again.
rascaljack 01-21-07, 04:07 PM Does anybody have any experience with an Oppo DV-970HD on this set.
I wanted to make sure that there wouldn't be any microblocking before I purchased it online.
rascaljack 01-21-07, 04:30 PM Is there a thread or forum that discusses manufacturer's warranties and extended warranties?
KINGOFOOTBALL33 01-22-07, 01:50 AM Guys need help....
Dont wanna start a new thread about it...
I just connected my xbox 360 via VGA....and fiddling with the menu I noticed a bunch of new options for VGA tweaking.
I just wanted to know if anyone has some good guidelines on how to set these up.
It has color weakness setting RGB.
It has coarse and fine settings
and some geometry settings.
Now these Ive done on PCs but for some reason I notice much less differences when tweaking these. So anyone whos gone through thr trouble or can make some recommendations would be great.
Bob4action 01-22-07, 11:38 AM Does anybody have any experience with an Oppo DV-970HD on this set.
I wanted to make sure that there wouldn't be any microblocking before I purchased it online.
Greetings,
Per Oppo Customer Service recommendations I have this combo and it is fine. You should still do at least a basic user DVE calibration as well.
YMMV,
b.
Phazeshift78 01-22-07, 01:50 PM Guys need help....
Dont wanna start a new thread about it...
I just connected my xbox 360 via VGA....and fiddling with the menu I noticed a bunch of new options for VGA tweaking.
I just wanted to know if anyone has some good guidelines on how to set these up.
It has color weakness setting RGB.
It has coarse and fine settings
and some geometry settings.
Now these Ive done on PCs but for some reason I notice much less differences when tweaking these. So anyone whos gone through thr trouble or can make some recommendations would be great.
I just recently bought the VGA cable for my Xbox360 to minimize the HD lag. Don't fiddle with the fine and coarse settings. Running the auto adjust feature works best. Here's what I concluded for my set (HL-S5086W):
Xbox360 Settings:
Resolution: 1024x768 ( use native resolution of the TV )
Expand Screen
HL-S5086W Settings:
Mode: Wide PC
Run Auto Adjust (Calibrates Fine and Coarse settings for you)
KINGOFOOTBALL33 01-22-07, 03:22 PM I just recently bought the VGA cable for my Xbox360 to minimize the HD lag. Don't fiddle with the fine and coarse settings. Running the auto adjust feature works best. Here's what I concluded for my set (HL-S5086W):
Xbox360 Settings:
Resolution: 1080x768 ( use native resolution of the TV )
Expand Screen
HL-S5086W Settings:
Mode: Wide PC
Run Auto Adjust (Calibrates Fine and Coarse settings for you)
Thanks,
Have you adjusted color weakness at all ?
I for one dont find the colors to need any tweaking but sometimes you dont know till you see the adjustment.
Phazeshift78 01-22-07, 03:45 PM Thanks,
Have you adjusted color weakness at all ?
I for one dont find the colors to need any tweaking but sometimes you dont know till you see the adjustment.
Fortunately for my VGA connection, I didn't have to adjust for color weakness. Although, for my component connections I had to because some colors were to bright.
Something Sexy 01-22-07, 04:02 PM I had the samsung service center come to my house this morning. Great guy, took 5 mins. He changed my bulb, made ALL of the difference, APPARENTLY there was a burn mark on the cover of the bulb causing my TV to be horribly dim, it only had 1000 hours on it. I definitely won't be using dynamic mode anymore, I didnt realize until a month or two ago that dynamic mode cranked up the wattage to the bulb, although I had the contrast drastically lowered. I think it still had a small effect on bulb life.
Phazeshift78 01-22-07, 05:01 PM I had the samsung service center come to my house this morning. Great guy, took 5 mins. He changed my bulb, made ALL of the difference, APPARENTLY there was a burn mark on the cover of the bulb causing my TV to be horribly dim, it only had 1000 hours on it. I definitely won't be using dynamic mode anymore, I didnt realize until a month or two ago that dynamic mode cranked up the wattage to the bulb, although I had the contrast drastically lowered. I think it still had a small effect on bulb life.
How much was the replacement and service?
I bought my TV from Sears and included the extended 5 year service and warranty for $300.
Something Sexy 01-22-07, 08:42 PM Mine was still under their 1 year warranty, so nothing. I also have the extended but I thought I would use Samsung as much as possible before I go on my extended warranty.
sennico 01-23-07, 09:31 PM I have had my eye on the HLS5086W for a while. I went to CC today and they have a display for 1149 or new for 1349. I hadnt planned on purchasing an extended warranty. From what I have read samsung offers a 1 yr and makes it 15 months when reg online. Am I crazy for not taking the warranty on the display? I forgot to mention I am on a very tight budget. Thanks
Something Sexy 01-23-07, 09:54 PM I would take the extended warranty. I don't know how true it is for samsung extending your warranty if you register online, I registered a month ago, they never said anything about extending my warranty.
bbrossard 01-23-07, 10:07 PM ....
sennico 01-23-07, 10:49 PM I guess what im trying to weigh out is do i spend $189 for a 2yr CC warranty that really only covers 9 months once the Sam warranty is removed. I would think that the lamp has enough hours (being on 12 hours a day 7 days a week) that the bulb would go in 15 months and be covered. Im just checking my logic
Phazeshift78 01-24-07, 03:04 PM I have had my eye on the HLS5086W for a while. I went to CC today and they have a display for 1149 or new for 1349. I hadnt planned on purchasing an extended warranty. From what I have read samsung offers a 1 yr and makes it 15 months when reg online. Am I crazy for not taking the warranty on the display? I forgot to mention I am on a very tight budget. Thanks
Main reason I went with the extended warranty is just in case my bulb goes out because the price of replacing the bulb comes close to the extended warranty. I know for sure within 5 years, the bulb will die out. Also, the extended warranty I got from Sears comes with a yearly maintenance. They send a tech over and clean the inside and optimize the display settings (not shown TV menu) if anything degrades. I think it's a good investment, especially if you get a display. But that's my opinion.
Something Sexy 01-24-07, 03:53 PM I registered just a few weeks ago and got the extension.
How do you know it was extended? Did they e-mail you or something?
Everyone,
I've been following this and the 87/88 thread. I had more or less settled on getting a 5086 as a temporary solution while the '07 sets make their way to the street (I need a TV for my bedroom anyway). All the recent talk of pincushion convinced me to go view the set at my local B&M store in 4:3 mode, and I have to say I was really taken aback. it was extremely noticeable. If what I saw in the store is typical, I don't think I want the set, since, for now, most of my content is narrow. I'll be moving to more wide content over time, but I don't want to gut and replace all of my content at once. A few questions:
1) I think the answer is "no", but does the 5086 add (or have a mode where it adds) sidebars to narrow content? The only way I could test at the particular store I was at was to force wide content into the "4:3" size mode. I'll take portable narrow content in if the set has another mode of interest.
2) Is there a consensus on how much pincushion is "normal" for this set? Maybe the one in the store was out-of-spec bad. I'm not above taking a yardstick and tape measure to the store to measure.
3) Do the higher # models and/or later builds have better luck with the geometry? I feel like there probably isnt enough data AVSF-wide yet to say for sure, but I figured I'd ask...
4) Are there any other RP sets in the same street-price ballpark as the 5086 that have better luck with the geometry? I can live with a lot of picture issues in this set, but I feel like geometry problems of the magnitude I saw in the store today would bother me.
Thanks....
83trekker 01-27-07, 12:33 AM I have the hls5665w dlp, if i adjust the picutre on any input it stays that way for all the inputs such as componet,dvi,ect. does all of your models do this? How do I calibrate my dvd player when i already have all my settings set up for digital tv and another for hd dvd as i would have to change these settings, please respond really need to know some info on this is.
Tnedator 01-28-07, 11:44 PM Ok, I bought a HL-S4266W from Amazon, which was delivered last week. I forgot to check the back before I put it in the cabinet in the bedroom, and it is hard to get in and out, so I don't know when I will get around to pulling it out and checking and I have no idea how new Amazon's inventory is (was shipped from Amazon, not one of their 3rd party merchants).
Yes, the black grass is there. As others have mentioned, it is most noticeable when it is turned to a source with no input, such as when I turned off my DVD before changing sources.
I have only watched four episodes of Alias on the TV and so far, it is barely noticable while watching actual video. The only times I saw it at all was in between scenes in Alias (where the commercials probably were when it was broadcast) when they sometimes go to a complete black scene for a second or so. In those cases, I could just make out a little of it at the very bottome (4" or so) of the center of the screen. This is compared to when there was no video input and probably extended up about a third of the way from the bottom.
As I have indicated, I have watched only a limited amount of video, but based on the four episodes of Alias, it doesn't look like it will be an issue when watching the TV.
I have read 90% or more of this thread. I have yet to see any post regarding the HLS5086W that has given me a warm fuzzy about which settings are the best. It seems that most of what I have seen posted are "This Looks Best to Me" settings. Has anyone had their set professionally calibrated? Has anyone confirmed which Color Tone mode is closest to 6500K? It seems I read early on in this thread that some calibrator named Eliab had confirmed that the setting closest is Warm 2 and yet I keep seeing people posting settings using DVE or Avia which display a different Color Tone. What gives?
A warranty from Sears will be different than others because Sears does all there own warranty work. If anyone does purchase an extended warranty make sure it has bulb replacement.
I bought this one: http://tapeworkstexas.com/mack_warranty_combo.html
It kicks in after the Samsung expires, which in my case was 15 mos after purchase because I registered online.
I have read 90% or more of this thread. I have yet to see any post regarding the HLS5086W that has given me a warm fuzzy about which settings are the best. It seems that most of what I have seen posted are "This Looks Best to Me" settings. Has anyone had their set professionally calibrated? Has anyone confirmed which Color Tone mode is closest to 6500K? It seems I read early on in this thread that some calibrator named Eliab had confirmed that the setting closest is Warm 2 and yet I keep seeing people posting settings using DVE or Avia which display a different Color Tone. What gives?
Which settings are best? No 2 tvs will have identical settings. They come from the factory different. Many people like a cooler( bluer) picture untill they get use to a true 65k setting
I use settings relatively close to what Eliab recomends.
http://www.avical.com/ Since you don't seem to know who Eliab is
Norante 01-29-07, 12:27 PM I have bought a HL-S4266W last week and it's been wonderful so far. However, I have noticed a few things on it that I can't quite sure point if they were there from day one, or if they developed in time:
On HDMI, sometimes a faint sillouette of the images persist on screen when transitioning to a black screen. For example, if there is a white line on screen and then it fades to a black screen, a faint "ghost" remains. It only happens on HDMI (PS3 in this case), wheter it's a movie trailer, menus or game.
I have noticed a lot of color banding later, akin to a computer monitor running in 16-bit color. Is this a normal behavior in a DLP set? I can't quite be sure that it was there on the first day, it's only becoming more noticeable to me now. Some color gradients look truly bad.
If anybody else can help address my first three questions I would greatly appreciate it.
Thanks again.
No Difference in the models. The sticker on the TV that list the registration number shows both model numbers.
Bulbs about 2-250 Look and make sure your warranty/ extended service plan includes bulb replacements.
http://tapeworkstexas.com/mack_warranty_combo.html
And finally no, a Monster power conditioner will not help enough to make a difference. The exception is if you living in an OLD house with poor electrical and a UPS system would be better.
I have bought a HL-S4266W last week and it's been wonderful so far. However, I have noticed a few things on it that I can't quite sure point if they were there from day one, or if they developed in time:
On HDMI, sometimes a faint sillouette of the images persist on screen when transitioning to a black screen. For example, if there is a white line on screen and then it fades to a black screen, a faint "ghost" remains. It only happens on HDMI (PS3 in this case), wheter it's a movie trailer, menus or game.
I have noticed a lot of color banding later, akin to a computer monitor running in 16-bit color. Is this a normal behavior in a DLP set? I can't quite be sure that it was there on the first day, it's only becoming more noticeable to me now. Some color gradients look truly bad.
Sounds like image retention,Not Burn but the kind you get on when a flash goes off in your eyes. What mode are you running your TV in?
Color banding= may be rainbow effect? http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/DLP
Which settings are best? No 2 tvs will have identical settings. They come from the factory different. Many people like a cooler( bluer) picture untill they get use to a true 65k setting
I use settings relatively close to what Eliab recomends.
http://www.avical.com/ Since you don't seem to know who Eliab is
Thanks. I found his settings. My dad bought one of these tvs and I was just looking for a quick setting to get him rolling. He ain't that picky. He is much more picky about what golf ball he uses than how his tv looks. You should maybe appreciate that. :D
Jayderek 01-29-07, 01:25 PM How do HD-DVD's look on these 720p sets?
I'm still agonizing between these and the 1080p sets...
Thanks,
Jason.
Thanks. I found his settings. My dad bought one of these tvs and I was just looking for a quick setting to get him rolling. He ain't that picky. He is much more picky about what golf ball he uses than how his tv looks. You should maybe appreciate that. :D
Ytour welcome, I am picky about balls and color temps.. :D
How do HD-DVD's look on these 720p sets?
I'm still agonizing between these and the 1080p sets...
Thanks,
Jason.
I you have the extra 4-500 go for the 1080p version. If not, your are not going to miss anything.
andrewski 01-30-07, 06:55 AM I just bought the HL-S4266W model, are their any suggestions as to where to set the picture for the BEST and Crispest picture quality? I seem to be having trouble watching ESPN. The picture looks distorted. I have the STB set at 720p for ESPN, but with this tv it seems I'm having to convert the STB myself if I want the best picture, with my old LCD, it looked good without having to change it back and forth. I personally think its the layers on the front of the TV ya know the non-glare layer and that, it seems like that thing is very visible on my TV, but I don't know, I'll prolly keep this one.
Tnedator 01-30-07, 08:14 AM I just bought the HL-S4266W model, are their any suggestions as to where to set the picture for the BEST and Crispest picture quality? I seem to be having trouble watching ESPN. The picture looks distorted. I have the STB set at 720p for ESPN, but with this tv it seems I'm having to convert the STB myself if I want the best picture, with my old LCD, it looked good without having to change it back and forth. I personally think its the layers on the front of the TV ya know the non-glare layer and that, it seems like that thing is very visible on my TV, but I don't know, I'll prolly keep this one.
When I first got my HL-S5086W about 6 months ago, I was very dissapointed by the destruction of an otherwise good picture by the anti-glare coating. It looked (looks) like there was a very sharp picture, underneath a film of grainy anti-glare material.
The ONLY real way I found to deal with it was to move further back from the set. I was originally only about 7' away from the set, as it is in my office and I half watch TV when working on the computer, and use it to play xbox games once in a while.
I had to rearrange my room so that I am now about 12' away and the picture is much better. If I look really hard I can see the problem, but it is much less noticable at the 12' or so.
I just bought a HL-S4266W for the bedroom and it has the same problem (as you mentioned), although I don't think it is as bad as the 50", or it is possible I am just more used to it. The TV in the bedroom is again around 12' from where we sit, and I have not noticed the problem when watching TV, only when standing about 4' in front of it checking it out just after installing the TV.
As an FYI. A month or two before I bought my HL-S5086w, my friend bought a 60" Sony SXRD, which at the time was over $4,000, and his Sony has the same exacty problem from the anti-glare material. From what I have read on here, most of the RPTVs have it to some degree.
Can someone explain exactly what to look for or what black grass looks like?
Can someone explain exactly what to look for or what black grass looks like?
Do a search for black grass in this thread. It has pictures see post 209 in this thread
MelvinChu 01-30-07, 01:03 PM Hey guys - I just recently got the HL-S4666W.
I just noticed this last night - but is anyone here running a 360 noticing it's not really in 16:9 mode, but a stretched/zoomed 4:3? (At least in Rainbow Six: Vegas. PGR3 seemed to play fine)
Currently have my 360 hooked up to it via the component cables it came with. Cable is set to HDTV mode, currently set to 720p. In the dashboard settings, I'm unable to change it from widescreen.
I came from playing on a Panasonic 36" Tau.
I just recently got the tv and haven't played much, but last night I was playing and noticed - it's as if the game is being displayed/shown in 4:3, but it's zoomed in to appear as if it's 16:9.
The grenades/ammo are at the very bottom of the screen. Also seems like I have overall less viewing area. On my old TV, you can see there's a faint orange outline/box on the tv. On my TV, it appears as if I only see what's inside that orange box.
This is truly really noticeable during the loading screens, where you see the white box outlines around the "Loading" and the loading red bars - they're huge, and part of those white boxes are off the screen.
Is there a setting I'm not applying? Am I doing something wrong? Or are you guys noticing this too? And are you guys also noticing every few minutes the screen gets grainy for about 3-4 seconds, then disappears?
Thanks for the help fellas!
Mel
JeffAHayes 01-30-07, 01:59 PM When I first set up my 4266 I was a bit taken aback by what appeared to me to be a sort of "graininess," as well, on the screen (probably caused by that anti-glare coating), sort of like I was looking at a high-definition picture through some sort of grainy filter...
Funny thing is, I don't really notice that any more -- at least not unless I'm very close to the TV. I really think it has a lot to do with how close you are to the screen. There's a suggested viewing distance, and for my test setup, I had it where I keep my 27" LCD Olevia Syntax HDTV here by the computer, until Christmas, and was watching it from about 6 feet or so... Once set up in its permanent location, the closest seat to it is at least 10 feet away, and it looks GREAT!
I DO notice that if I'm standing and get too close, I notice some of that graininess, but not to the same extent as I did when it was new... I also went through all the menus and played a bit with the controls, but found that the factory settings looked pretty much the best... I also feel the picture IMPROVED A BIT over the first few days of viewing; I think this TV requires a bit of a "break-in period," and it seems I even read something to that effect somewhere about DLPs.
At any rate, I'm very satisfied more than a month later, and although I'm also satisfied with the LCD Olevia, I can also tell you that on the rare occassion we're watching something HD upstairs that I also have turned on downstairs, and I run downstairs mid-program to try not to miss much (pretty close to an A/B comparison), I'm rather blown away by the difference.
Frankly I still think LCD has advantages of DLP, but screen brightness ISN'T one of them... The one time I'm thinking of... I was watching this really BRILLIANT, Hi-Def picture UPSTAIRS, ran downstairs and there was this sort of SUBDUED Hi-Def picture. It's still plenty good, but if I had to compare them side-by-side, I'm sure the DLP would blow this particular LCD away.
Consider this WAS a low-end LCD and one of Olevia's older LCD models... Then again, consider also that LG makes ALL the LCD panels for Olevia, so they're not made by just anybody...
But I digress... On the issue of color, and color calibration... Color is a VERY SUBJECTIVE business. Of course if you have color wheels to use, or electronic calibration tools or guides, you can get everything "just so," but in the end, isn't it what pleases your eyes that counts?
I try to use a few things as MY guide...
1. Flesh tones... do flesh tones look real? Flesh tones used to be very difficult for some TVs to get right, but got better through the years... If flesh tones are good, that's one factor down.
2. Blue sky... Of course the shade of blue of the sky can vary widely from day to day and from one section of the sky to the other, but we all should know what all of those shades look like, and if the sky doesn't look right, we should be able to tell -- same with water.
3. Trees and foilage. I really think if you want to see how well calibrated your color is from a PRACTICAL standpoint, rather than a technical one, the best thing to do is tune into something like DiscoveryHD when they're running something like Sunrise Earth or one of their other HD Nature shows and watch carefully... You'll generally get a chance to see most of the major colors well displayed.
Frankly, I think the menu allows you some fairly decent choices to play, but I'd personally rather not mess with it too much when it looks so good to start with (or at least mine does).
Good luck!
Jeff
MelvinChu 01-30-07, 03:00 PM That might be it - distance - although the grainyness fades in and out every few minutes - it's not a constant. It's probably at the optimal level as recommended by the instruction manual.
Thanks for the tips about everything else though, thanks!
Tnedator 01-30-07, 03:36 PM That might be it - distance - although the grainyness fades in and out every few minutes - it's not a constant. It's probably at the optimal level as recommended by the instruction manual.
Thanks for the tips about everything else though, thanks!
I think what you will find is not that it is truely fading in and out, but that it is much more noticable on some scenes than others.
For instance, certain horizon scenes it might be very noticeable. Watching golf, when they are putting on a green and you have the camera following the ball on the green 'behind' the grainy film can be very annoying. Some scenes/color combinations it will be barely noticable and others it will drive you crazy.
Two factors help. First, distance. the further back you are the more it all 'blends' together, and you don't pick out the film over the picture. Second, time. I don't believe the TV breaks in, but you do. Your brain starts to filter it out. I went by a friends house and looked at his 6 month old SXRD and immediately saw the 'grainy' effect, while I barely notice it on my DLP anymore. When i went over there, I was looking for it, to see how it compared to the Samsung. At home, I have gotten used to the effect and my mind blocks it out.
pcstuff 01-30-07, 04:53 PM Amazon shows the HL-S5686W for $1249 delivered. I am VERY tempted to get in on this deal.
Here's my question, and I realize none of you have a crystal ball:
Given the price drop of roughly about +50% on pretty much all HDTVs over the last year, do you think prices will continue to drop dramatically? i.e. do you think a 56" HDTV will go much lower than $1,200?
I personally don't think so, but then again I am nowhere nearly as well versed in all the going ons of this industry as some of you seem to be.
mtia!
anyone with recommended settings for ps3?
I wanted to compare with what I have.
Thx.
Oh yeah I have a HL-S5686W
JeffAHayes 01-30-07, 09:51 PM What I think, pcstuff, is that ANYONE who buys a BIG, potentially VERY FINICKY HDTV online, or mail-order, where they KNOW they'll have to deal with even a DAY-ONE return for the simplest problem (from a missing power cord to a cracked screen or total failure), by return shipping, is just ASKING for anxiety and frustration.
I KNOW we do it with our computers (I bought the Dell I'm using right now online/over-the-phone -- had to finalize the deal over the phone because getting things just right online was something of a nightmare, lol), BUT I got the monitor I'm using with it at the local Circuit City... same with my HDTV... even though I ordered it online, from CC, and had it delivered, since that was free, I considered it a local-store purchase since I was pretty sure if I had a problem within the first 30 days, I could deal with them...
As for the price drops, I think they're going to keep going down -- particularly the 720s -- I'm seeing 1080s up to 60" for less than $2000 now -- not only online, but also the local Sam's Club has one... a Samsung DLP, I believe... Oh, and by the way, even at 1080, the picture STILL looked "grainy" (sports -- golf, I believe, was on -- and it was like the picture was being filtered through a "grainy filter," although it was still a fantastic picture)...
And Tnedator, I think you're probably right... the human brain is an amazing thing (consider that each eye has a BLIND SPOT where the optic nerve attaches, but the brain fills in the blind spot with what it "computes" is there -- there are tests you can do to prove the blind spot, but I don't have any links handy for them)... At any rate, in the end, it's all a matter of what you get used to and if you're happy with it.
I am. Most of you seem to be. Some people are very picky and it takes a lot to satisfy them... Frankly, unless I'm spending a veritable fortune for "the very best," I don't really mind settling for "good enough," and I think my Samsung DLP is better than "good enough," it's plenty fine to me.
Happy Viewings!
Jeff
Is the black grass such a big issue if viewing dvd or television? In your opinion is it enough of a issue not to buy this set?
dsl_steve 01-31-07, 09:53 AM Is the black grass such a big issue if viewing dvd or television? In your opinion is it enough of a issue not to buy this set?
I have one and if you read my posts in this thread, I have very little or next to none. It has shrunk over time. You have to decide for yourself by either previewing a set in a store or step up, take a chance and buy one. BTW: The black grass is an optical artifact caused by the mechanical interface of the inner and outer screens. It is not an electrical issue. I also think the picture quality of the HL-S4266 is better than anything else I've seen in the 42" range.
stockdogg 01-31-07, 09:57 AM Hi everybody...new to this forum because I just bought a Sammy 42" dlp. And yes it does have the black grass. I have read alot about this on this thread and other websites, and it does not bother me RIGHT NOW. However I have noticed a couple of "hand puppets" inside of Anakin Skywalkers head in Star Wars Episode 3, or a shadow or something. I noticed another time too but can't remember where. I have been doing nothing but anaylzing defects of picture on this tv and really the black grass doesn't seem to bother me, but is the puppets/shadows a result ot the black grass or is it just the way this set is??
If Bbuy doesn't drop the price of their 46 or 50 dlps anymore within the next 25 days I probably will just keep the 42" because of the savins, but I'm still watching and listening to other people respond about the issue. If I keep it, I probably will talk to them about it and see if I can't switch it out for a new one anyway just to see...thats why I was asking if it was in all of them or not...not that I am mad at samsung or anything, but I might do that anyway just so when they look at their returns they will see ALOT of returns on this model!
Someone said in another forum they thought Samsung poorly addressed the issue and was trying to compensate by lowering the price, maybe? I bought it knowing full well it might be there! I'm not trying to play victim, just figured I had to judge for myself. Also the $199 4 year plan at best buy doesnt seem to bad either, might sign up for that...
Thanks for any input!
BTW what do you 42" owners have your contrast/brightness set on? I did the Joe Kane thing and sometimes I get so confused with his tests...I think mine is 40 contrast 55 brightness...
Thanks again!
Is the black grass such a big issue if viewing dvd or television? In your opinion is it enough of a issue not to buy this set?
What set? the HL-S5086 and up do not have it. Black Grass seems to be on the
HL-S4266 only. Maybe the 46 also??
stockdogg 01-31-07, 10:00 AM I have one and if you read my posts in this thread, I have very little or next to none. It has shrunk over time. You have to decide for yourself by either previewing a set in a store or step up, take a chance and buy one. BTW: The black grass is an optical artifact caused by the mechanical interface of the inner and outer screens. It is not an electrical issue. I also think the picture quality of the HL-S4266 is better than anything else I've seen in the 42" range.
but did it look like a giant clamshell when you bought it?? haha... it baffles me how prevelant it is when the picture is on and completely dark, but how hard it is to detect even up close, in a dark scene.
So i got my Samsung HL-S5086W delivered yesterday. Heres a problem i'm having. This is my first HDTV, so excuse me if it's a stupid question. How do i get channels to actually use the entire screen? Some HD channels use the full screen (A few of the news channels), but all standard def makes it like a fullscreen tv (about 5-8" on each side is not used). Also, on VGA IN it is doing the same. I went through the menu and did not see any options except 16:9(what it's at) and 4:3 (makes it worst). Any ideas? Thanks.
BTW, other then that, the tv looks amazing. It is amazingly bright and i'm happy about my purchase from amazon.
DeezNuts420 01-31-07, 12:21 PM Zunger. The tv you have is 16:9. Standard programing is displayed in 4:3 aspect. If you want the picture to fit the screen, the TV has to stretch the picture. That is the reason the picture looks WORSE. HD channels and widescreen dvd's fill the screen because they are displayed in 16:9. My advice is to just get used to the bars on the side. Congrat's on your new HDTV. Enjoy!!
DeezNuts420 01-31-07, 01:22 PM Sorry to double post, but Now I have some questions. I'm running Comcast HD/DVR through Monster Component Cable. I seem to get a better picture at 1080i as opposed to 720p. It just seems to be lacking. Anyone have the HL-S5086W, and have there's calibrated? If so what are your settings. Any other advice would be helpful as well. Thanks in advance.
Sorry to double post, but Now I have some questions. I'm running Comcast HD/DVR through Monster Component Cable. I seem to get a better picture at 1080i as opposed to 720p. It just seems to be lacking. Anyone have the HL-S5086W, and have there's calibrated? If so what are your settings. Any other advice would be helpful as well. Thanks in advance.
Most feeds are 1080i and the TV does a better job of converting to 720p than the STB.
83trekker 01-31-07, 08:25 PM I just bought the HLS-5665W cant seem to see anything about it anywhere, anyways love the tv not a single problem with it from all the ones i have read on here.
I have a few questions does your hls models have the option of low and high output of the bulb? Mine doesnt but the lg and the toshiba i have seen do.
Also if you set your settings say under componet , or hdmi or what ever, are they diferent for every other input? I can change the settings for colour,contrast ect and its the same on all inputs regardless.Whats yours like for each setting?
I think i just got the cheapo of the hls series but i love this tv and the colours are fabulous and HD is freaking awsome, what a picture, but it does wreck all of the other sd and digital channels i have, and dvd:)
can anybody help me with the above please
When I first got my HL-S5086W about 6 months ago, I was very dissapointed by the destruction of an otherwise good picture by the anti-glare coating. It looked (looks) like there was a very sharp picture, underneath a film of grainy anti-glare material.
The ONLY real way I found to deal with it was to move further back from the set. I was originally only about 7' away from the set, as it is in my office and I half watch TV when working on the computer, and use it to play xbox games once in a while.
I had to rearrange my room so that I am now about 12' away and the picture is much better. If I look really hard I can see the problem, but it is much less noticable at the 12' or so.
I just bought a HL-S4266W for the bedroom and it has the same problem (as you mentioned), although I don't think it is as bad as the 50", or it is possible I am just more used to it. The TV in the bedroom is again around 12' from where we sit, and I have not noticed the problem when watching TV, only when standing about 4' in front of it checking it out just after installing the TV.
As an FYI. A month or two before I bought my HL-S5086w, my friend bought a 60" Sony SXRD, which at the time was over $4,000, and his Sony has the same exacty problem from the anti-glare material. From what I have read on here, most of the RPTVs have it to some degree.
Just got my 8300HD STB, and I was also disappointed by the graininess of some HD channels. CSI:NY had a grainy look. This was at 720p and 1080i component. A further viewing distance did improve the picture, but I think it may be the feed. I switched over to HDNet, and the picture was absolutely perfect at any viewing distance. I do agree that the anti-glare coating contributes to the grainy look of the picture at close viewing distances. However, it seems that some channels have a cleaner feed than others IMO (no expert here).
EDIT: On a side note, I'm running an XBOX360 through component and the picture is gorgeous. The 5086W is a great tv. I'm just disappointed at HDTV for now.
JeffAHayes 02-01-07, 12:52 AM I agree HDNet seems to have an IMPECCABLE feed... I'm watching "Dead Like Me" on there (second or third time on this episode, but it's just TOO GOOD), and the picture is incredible... Just finished watching the last half of "Caddyshack" on HDMov, too, and especially for a movie 27 years old, the picture wsa also phenomenal... However, I also notice frequent screen freezes on both of these channels (well, usually at least once ever show or two -- "Caddyshack" froze just as the goofy kid was picking his nose, and I ALMOST THINK someone down at the HDMov headquarters did that one on purpose, lol).
Note I'm watching these on my LCD Olevia, so I can't say how they look on the Samsung, but I consistently get great feeds from those two channels.
Jeff
Just got my 8300HD STB, and I was also disappointed by the graininess of some HD channels. CSI:NY had a grainy look. This was at 720p and 1080i component. A further viewing distance did improve the picture, but I think it may be the feed. I switched over to HDNet, and the picture was absolutely perfect at any viewing distance. I do agree that the anti-glare coating contributes to the grainy look of the picture at close viewing distances. However, it seems that some channels have a cleaner feed than others IMO (no expert here).
EDIT: On a side note, I'm running an XBOX360 through component and the picture is gorgeous. The 5086W is a great tv. I'm just disappointed at HDTV for now.
Oddly I get no grain texture from my screen. What is your viewing distance? About 8 feet would be perfect. Have you done any type of setup. Elsewhere in the thread Eliab gave some settings. I used them for my initial set up.
If you have it on some feeds and not others ,I'd say it is the source. In this case CSI is intentionaly grainy because the Director wanted it that way.
...picture wsa also phenomenal... However, I also notice frequent screen freezes on both of these channels (well, usually at least once ever show or two -- "Caddyshack" froze just as the goofy kid was picking his nose, and I ALMOST THINK someone down at the HDMov headquarters did that one on purpose, lol).
Jeff
Freezing is beacuse of your provider. It can happen on any channel. Usually happens at the most critical time :eek:
steveinaz 02-01-07, 09:13 AM 1) I think the answer is "no", but does the 5086 add (or have a mode where it adds) sidebars to narrow content? The only way I could test at the particular store I was at was to force wide content into the "4:3" size mode. I'll take portable narrow content in if the set has another mode of interest.
2) Is there a consensus on how much pincushion is "normal" for this set? Maybe the one in the store was out-of-spec bad. I'm not above taking a yardstick and tape measure to the store to measure.
3) Do the higher # models and/or later builds have better luck with the geometry? I feel like there probably isnt enough data AVSF-wide yet to say for sure, but I figured I'd ask...
4) Are there any other RP sets in the same street-price ballpark as the 5086 that have better luck with the geometry? I can live with a lot of picture issues in this set, but I feel like geometry problems of the magnitude I saw in the store today would bother me.
Thanks....
- You can select from 4:3, 16:9, Zoom1, Zoom 2, yes it puts side bars on 4:3 content. I'm surprised how well 4:3 looks at 16:9, very little distortion.
- I've had my 5086w for about a month now. I have no geometry issues.
- I haven't seen anything that can compete with the price/quality ratio of the 5086W
ShaunoftheDead9 02-01-07, 11:28 PM How do HD-DVD's look on these 720p sets?
I'm still agonizing between these and the 1080p sets...
Thanks,
Jason.
I have the 4266 and HD DVD looks fantastic. Also blu-way with PS3 and it also looks great, so no issues on my end.
JeffAHayes 02-02-07, 12:48 AM I think the 1080P sets OBVIOUSLY look better with true 1080P content... The issue is the limited availability of true 1080P content at this point... So far as I know, NO broadcaster is yet broadcasting at 1080P, and I'm not sure how soon any of them plan to begin doing it (consider how long it's taking many of them to just get to 720P).
Only one of the two competing HD disk formats is currently 1080 (although HD-DVD is supposedly WORKING on a 1080P version, but then that will make the current 720P machines they're selling sort of obsolete, along with all the 720P discs created to date....
Of course it's possible that even 720P content might look better on 1080P sets, since they're not maxing out their possible resolution... who knows? I pretty much doubt it, however.
My main line of thinking on this, however, is that the LARGER you go with screen size, the more important a higher resolution is, as 1080P on, say, a 61" screen probably gives you the same relative resolution for the screen size as 720P does on say a 37 or 42" screen, since the number of lines on the smaller screen is spread over a smaller screen area... Thus, for instance, getting HD on a 15" screen is almost a waste of time because even 480P on a 15" screen is probably a tighter resolution than 720P on, say, a 27" or larger screen (and I haven't done mathematical equations to figure the exact correlations -- not sure I even know how -- I'm just guesstimating, based on the overall difference in screen size, but it's kind of a common sense "no-brainer."
Soooo, if you're getting a TV of 60" or larger, and you have the money, it might be worth it to get 1080P (assuming it's a good-quality set with good features, decent brand, respectable company, decent warranty, etc.), rather than going with 720P, knowing that your "relative resolution compared with a 42" is going to look like a 42" in ED, not HD, I think....
Of course that's just my opinion... I could be wrong... And from what I've seen in stores, the large-screen (56" and above) 720P sets still look pretty good, but it IS possible to see the dots pretty clearly -- even on what USED TO BE the "Cadillac" of HD sets, that Panasonic 50" plasma that was once about $4000 and is still going for more than $2.000 at Sam's club... I see it every time I'm in there... Picture is impeccable, but I can count EVERY SINGLE DOT on the screen from seven or eight feet away.
On the other hand, right now I'm watching a re-run of "Surface" on UniversalHD ony my 27" Olevia LCD and I can't see ANYTHING even resembling a "dot" on screen.
Happy Viewings!
Jeff
Got my Samsung 42" DPL last night at BB. I'm wondering if anyone can give me some advice on setup, components (cables).
Got my Samsung 42" DLP last night at BB. I'm wondering if anyone can give me some advice on setup, components (cables).
If you are going to get cables go to www.monoprice.com, Find a DVD with a THX setup( Pearl Harbor) on it and adust your settings to start.
sonypete 02-03-07, 07:24 PM Hey Guys
Are any of the ineternal of the HL-S4676 different from the HL-S4666 besides the changes in the input and output connections? Say like "game mode" or higher quality?
And how much more advanced is the HL-S5087 in terms of picture qaulity? I posted in another thread with simliar questions as I'm in the process of looking for my first HDTV :)
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=9675663#post9675663
-Pete
LarryK2712 02-03-07, 11:40 PM If you go to the Samsung site they list the differences between these two versions. In addition to the 4676 being slimmer and lighter it has a nonglare screen. It also lists an analog tuner.
sonypete 02-03-07, 11:50 PM If you go to the Samsung site they list the differences between these two versions. In addition to the 4676 being slimmer and lighter it has a nonglare screen. It also lists an analog tuner.
Yea I've been through the pdf spec sheet. I guess my main question is whether or not the HL-S5087 has some extra tweaks over the HL-S4676S since the 50" seems to be a newer iteration of the DLP series. I'm just trying to find out if the HL-SXX87 models have a noticable edge over gaming performance on the HL S4646S. Anyone seen the two in action or heard anything?
Oddly I get no grain texture from my screen. What is your viewing distance? About 8 feet would be perfect. Have you done any type of setup. Elsewhere in the thread Eliab gave some settings. I used them for my initial set up.
If you have it on some feeds and not others ,I'd say it is the source. In this case CSI is intentionaly grainy because the Director wanted it that way.
Thanks for the info. Just about all other programs in HD have looked fine to me. I suppose the grain texture was intended for that broadcast. I have watched other CBS programs with better results. Also, at my normal viewing distance of 10 feet, my PQ is great. I was really scrutinizing my TV at 5 feet and closer to make sure I had the optimal HD picture. So, I just need to back up and enjoy.
sonypete 02-04-07, 01:00 PM Has anyone here, that owns the 4676 or the 4666, test the lag in their PS2 or XBOX games?
Also I will be using a PS3 with the TV and want to know if these models perform as well as the HL-SXX87 series?
cvilletoday 02-04-07, 06:01 PM First off, great forum. I learn more here than through any manual or service rep on the other end of a help line. I have the 5086 and I love it. Amazing HD, just amazing. DVDs I'm not that impressed with, but mostly because I'm spoiled by HD tv at this point.
Question: Any input about the quality difference between HDMI and component for dvd players? I notice a huge difference in the quality, and the component wins every time. Is HDMI supposed to give a clearer picture? I see HDMI-transmitted images as grainy whereas component are smooth and clean. I know HDMI transmits audio as well but is that the only benefit? Anyone else prefer component to HDMI or have I done something wrong? Also, does film mode work with HDMI? So far I can't seem to get it to be active.
Thanks for any input.....
Phazeshift78 02-06-07, 12:18 PM First off, great forum. I learn more here than through any manual or service rep on the other end of a help line. I have the 5086 and I love it. Amazing HD, just amazing. DVDs I'm not that impressed with, but mostly because I'm spoiled by HD tv at this point.
Question: Any input about the quality difference between HDMI and component for dvd players? I notice a huge difference in the quality, and the component wins every time. Is HDMI supposed to give a clearer picture? I see HDMI-transmitted images as grainy whereas component are smooth and clean. I know HDMI transmits audio as well but is that the only benefit? Anyone else prefer component to HDMI or have I done something wrong? Also, does film mode work with HDMI? So far I can't seem to get it to be active.
Thanks for any input.....
I get the same scenario with dark colors displayed on my HL-S5086W, connected from my Comcast Motorla HD-STB via HDMI. I get better picture quality with component. From what I understand, a possbility for source of my graininess is the STB itself.
I borrowed a friend's upconverting Samsung 720p/1080i DVD player and connected via HDMI to compare the PQ against my standard Panasonic 480p DVD player via component and noticed NO major differences and NO graininess. The HDMI showed a bit lower contrast and color.
But then again, the two different inputs have different ways to process the display. Maybe the 86W has a better A/D conversion than D/D translation (circuit or algorithm)? Or maybe the Motorolla STB has a crappy HDMI source connection compared to the component?
What are you connecting from?
Has anyone here, that owns the 4676 or the 4666, test the lag in their PS2 or XBOX games?
Also I will be using a PS3 with the TV and want to know if these models perform as well as the HL-SXX87 series?
I have both an Xbox 480p and and Xbox 360 720p connected to the 4666w via component. There is there is zero lag on both machines. Further, I had a PS3 hooked up over HDMI and there was also zero lag.
Hi,
Any chance you figured this out? I have a 4666 as well, with the Oppo 970HD with the same/similar issues. If I do HDMI from the dvd player to the TV, and then optical to my receiver, I only get surround sounds - no center channel. Yet, TV is fine.
I'm trying to figure out (as are you, from the sound of it) whether this is a tv issue, or a dvd player issue. I've seen a reference to HDMI 1.1 vs 1.0, but not sure where else to look.
Thanks,
Kevin
HELP!!!!
1st off, I'd like to thank all of you for this wonderful forum. It helped me a lot in making my decision on what to buy. Equipment list:
Sammy HL-S4666
Sammy DVD-HD860
JVC RX-884V Dolby Digital Receiver
The DVD Player is connected to the TV via HDMI. The TV is running into the Receiver via a Optical audio cable. The Receiver is getting sound from the TV, but it not coming through as Dolby Digital. It is playing through my rear speakers, but not in surround. I haven't changed anything on the Receiver from the previous DVD player that was connected to it via the Optical cable. Is there some setting I am missing somewhere on the TV or DVD for the Audio? I've tried tooling around in the Audio setup menus and haven't been able to get it to work.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
FYI-I love the TV!!!! Watched Star Wars Episode III last night with a huge grin on my face. Total eye candy, and a great fit for my living room.
cvilletoday 02-06-07, 06:53 PM I get the same scenario with dark colors displayed on my HL-S5086W, connected from my Comcast Motorla HD-STB via HDMI. I get better picture quality with component. From what I understand, a possbility for source of my graininess is the STB itself.
But then again, the two different inputs have different ways to process the display. Maybe the 86W has a better A/D conversion than D/D translation (circuit or algorithm)? Or maybe the Motorolla STB has a crappy HDMI source connection compared to the component?
What are you connecting from?
I have an LG DN191H upconverting dvd player. I did notice that res was set to 480p when I saw the grainy pic and played with that. Improved it somewhat but I'm on the fence about which is better. I did notice that I can't use Film Mode unless res is set to 480i but it seems with HDMI cable the dvd player won't stay on 480i. Seems to default to 480p. I'm learning as I go. Also, after doing some reading it seems I'm not the only one debating which looks better, hdmi or component. Haven't tried HDMI from my STB to the tv yet. I think I'm just jonesing for that HD picture I get with the TV broadcasts from my dvd player....can't quite go HD DVD yet though.
JeffAHayes 02-06-07, 10:14 PM I don't remember WHERE I read it (could have even been this forum), but it seems somewhere I read that the USUAL experience is that people get better reception going component rather than DVI or HDMI, although I don't remember the reason.
I DO know that my cable company ONLY offers component connections for their HDTV setups when they bring the boxes out, even though they all have HDMI outputs on them. I thought maybe it was because the cables were less expensive, but maybe HDMI still has some bugs to be worked out?
I ALSO know that although they charge us customers for the cables, it's probably the best deal they ever give their customers, as they're quality cables (5-wide: RGB + LR and 12 or 15 feet long, with gold-plated connectors) for $14.95. I wasn't going to get the cables when I swapped out our second box for a HD box, since I had enough cables already to get the job done, but decided to get them, anyway, because of the deal... After I did, the lady behind the desk at Charter said those cables retail for $70, and I believe her -- particularly after having seen what Monster gets for THEIR cables!
Phazeshift78 02-07-07, 12:11 PM I don't remember WHERE I read it (could have even been this forum), but it seems somewhere I read that the USUAL experience is that people get better reception going component rather than DVI or HDMI, although I don't remember the reason.
I DO know that my cable company ONLY offers component connections for their HDTV setups when they bring the boxes out, even though they all have HDMI outputs on them. I thought maybe it was because the cables were less expensive, but maybe HDMI still has some bugs to be worked out?
I ALSO know that although they charge us customers for the cables, it's probably the best deal they ever give their customers, as they're quality cables (5-wide: RGB + LR and 12 or 15 feet long, with gold-plated connectors) for $14.95. I wasn't going to get the cables when I swapped out our second box for a HD box, since I had enough cables already to get the job done, but decided to get them, anyway, because of the deal... After I did, the lady behind the desk at Charter said those cables retail for $70, and I believe her -- particularly after having seen what Monster gets for THEIR cables!
I got my gold plated components and my DVI/HDMI cables for free from Comcast. :)
Phazeshift78 02-07-07, 12:39 PM I have an LG DN191H upconverting dvd player. I did notice that res was set to 480p when I saw the grainy pic and played with that. Improved it somewhat but I'm on the fence about which is better. I did notice that I can't use Film Mode unless res is set to 480i but it seems with HDMI cable the dvd player won't stay on 480i. Seems to default to 480p. I'm learning as I go. Also, after doing some reading it seems I'm not the only one debating which looks better, hdmi or component. Haven't tried HDMI from my STB to the tv yet. I think I'm just jonesing for that HD picture I get with the TV broadcasts from my dvd player....can't quite go HD DVD yet though.
To my limited understanding (so I have room to be corrected here), "Film Mode" is only for 480i video sources, upconverts to 480p.
Did you change the resolution setting on your LG DN191H DVD player? Also, from the DVD player manual, it states that if the DVD is copy protected, it will only display 480p resolution with component, but can get higher output resolution (720p,1080i) with HDMI. You should probably research how well the your LG DVD player upconverts. Not all upconverting software/hardware are created equal.
Play with the HDMI by changing the resolution settings to see if you get noticeably different PQs.
Personally, I prefer component. But again, it depends on my source.
Hi all,
It took me two days to read through the posts and in the middle of reading the posts I came to the conclusion of getting the HL-S466W, but it came to my knowledge that the model is be discontinued and you can get them only through soem online vendor. I don't like buying a TV online. So I went to the Samsung website and they have another 46' HL-S4676S.
Is this the set replacing the HL-S4666W. I head a lot of good things about the 4666W and was set to buy this model but now can anyone give any information about the HL-S4676S. Is it as good as the 4666W. Also I noticed on CC website that the price for the HL-S4676S and the 50' HLS5086W is almost the same with a $50 difference. So which one is better I have no issue with space and viewing distance. I don't want all the black grass or lag problems as I intend to play games as well. So can someone recommend me which out of these two is a better choice and if possible why.
JeffAHayes 02-07-07, 05:57 PM I got my gold plated components and my DVI/HDMI cables for free from Comcast. :)
I'm not ONE BIT SURPRISED, Phazeshift... I think Charter would charge us for AIR, if they thought they could get away with it.
I DREAM of the day someone like Verizon lays Fiber Optic cables here and offers some real competition to them... I'll jump so fast their head will spin!
Jeff
Todd Fuller 02-07-07, 09:21 PM Hey newb to AVS. I have a sammy HLS5086W. Iam not happy with it at this moment, i bought it memmorial day weekend '06 and the lamp idicator flashes everytime i turn the tv on, so i got into the SM to see how many hours were on it, yeah 1800 hours, ummmm what would cause the lamp to go sooo soon? My picture gets worse the longer the tv is on, grainy, pixelation, and a shadowing effect especially in dark scenes of a movie. I do have a tech coming out tues to look at it, but just curious as to why sooo soon. Another thing as i have been reading threads about my problem, people talk about the cooling fans. Are these easy to hear as the tv is on? I guess just looking for clues on weather it is the cooling fan that has caused the lamp to go. How do I detect if the fan is working? Thanks for any info, sorry if it was a little messy, just disapointed in this tv right now.
JeffAHayes 02-07-07, 09:47 PM I would HOPE it's something else, like maybe somehow dust got in there and is obscuring the light or something, Todd.
However, you didn't say anything regarding your positioning of the TV. I assume, like all good high-tech, high-$$$ users, you read the owner's manual and made note of the warning to give the back and sides of the unit at least a foot of clearance, so the DLP unit doesn't overheat.
If you didn't do that, you may have inadvertantly shortened the life of the light and/or the cooling unit, as the owner's manual EMPHATICALLY states the need for that cooling clearance. I know some folks DON'T read owner's manuals. I'm not one of them, and this is one of many times I've been glad, although my setup location wouldn't have restricted clearance anyway, because at least I know to make sure not to put any obstructions around it.
Now assuming you DID give it plenty of clearance, it's possible you just have a unit with defective parts. Either way, I hope the technician is able to fix it for you and it doesn't cost you any money.
Good luck!
Jeff
Todd Fuller 02-07-07, 10:01 PM Jeffrey,
I never read the owners manual!!! I just assumed I could take it out of the box throw it in a tight corner near my heat vent and hook everything up and it would be fine. Wow I didnt read the fricken owners manual, i can't believe thats it. I wish i was as "high-tech, high-$$$" as you then I could badger every one who asks for advice. And good for you for "Not being one of those" who don't read the owners manuals. I knew it had to be where the tv was positioned, thanks for the help!!! Wow, i moved it, and it fixed it self, yes positioning is EVERYTHING!!!
I want to buy a Samsung DLP. However, I definately want one with a built-in QAM tuner. I believe I read in this thread that this years model, the HL-S series does not have that...but I thought I read that the HL-R does. When I look at the spec sheet on Samsung's site for the HL-R4667W, it doesnt say that it has QAM, however it does have CableCard.
If a tv has a cablecard slot, does that mean it has a QAM tuner?
Does the HL-R4667 have a QAM tuner?
Thanks a ton!
Hello,
I've already asked this in the Sony E2000 Owners thread, but I also wanted the opinions of Samsung owners, so I will ask again. What do you guys think of Sony KDF50E2000 vs Samsung HL-S5086W? I saw these two products next to each other at the store, and I thought the the Sony's PQ was 10X better. So I'm wondering if this is really the case or if the Samsung at the store just wasn't calibrated correctly.
These two TVs cost about the same, so I'd obviously would like to go with the better set. So, if you guys had to choose, which one would you pick and why? As I'm not the most educated in this matter, I'd appreciate your help. Thanks in advance!
I want to buy a Samsung DLP. However, I definately want one with a built-in QAM tuner. I believe I read in this thread that this years model, the HL-S series does not have that...but I thought I read that the HL-R does. When I look at the spec sheet on Samsung's site for the HL-R4667W, it doesnt say that it has QAM, however it does have CableCard.
If a TV has a cable card slot, does that mean it has a QAM tuner?
Does the HL-R4667 have a QAM tuner?
Thanks a ton!
Cable card and tuner are 2 different things.
The HL-R4676, does.
http://downloadcenter.samsung.com/content/EM/200609/20060929165621781/EN/4_sub.htm
See under set up where you can connect cable without a cable box.
The HL-R4667 which is a discontinued 2005 model has a tuner see first line where it says digital cable ready tuner.
http://www.samsung.com/Products/TV/ArchivedTVs_2005/HLR4667WAXXAA.asp
Th HLS models are better than the older HL-R
Hello,
I've already asked this in the Sony E2000 Owners thread, but I also wanted the opinions of Samsung owners, so I will ask again. What do you guys think of Sony KDF50E2000 vs Samsung HL-S5086W?!
Would the fact we all bought a Samsung say something ;)
Would the fact we all bought a Samsung say something ;)
Well, yes and no. Your answer tells me that you are completely happy with your purchase. However, there can be people that regret the purchase and wish they could have gotten something else. You know what I mean? Thanks for your reply.
Phazeshift78 02-08-07, 11:41 AM Hello,
I've already asked this in the Sony E2000 Owners thread, but I also wanted the opinions of Samsung owners, so I will ask again. What do you guys think of Sony KDF50E2000 vs Samsung HL-S5086W? I saw these two products next to each other at the store, and I thought the the Sony's PQ was 10X better. So I'm wondering if this is really the case or if the Samsung at the store just wasn't calibrated correctly.
These two TVs cost about the same, so I'd obviously would like to go with the better set. So, if you guys had to choose, which one would you pick and why? As I'm not the most educated in this matter, I'd appreciate your help. Thanks in advance!
I was in the same situation when I first bought my HL-S5086W. The KDF50E2000 was right next to the HL-S5086W at the store I bought my TV from. The KDF50E2000 did have a brighter picture, but the quality of the picture was slightly better on the HL-S5086W. I was originally going to buy the KDF50E2000, but they didn't have one in stock, so I went with the HL-S5086W. I'm a big XBox Live gamer, and at the time I bought the TV, I wasn't aware of HDTV lag. Well, I got burned with my online game play, and wished I went with the Sony instead. If you're a gamer, go with the Sony. If you're not and just care for watching movies and TV, go with any of the two. They're both good TVs. Which would look better in the room you're going to put it in? Silver or Black?
Phazeshift78 02-08-07, 11:45 AM I'm not ONE BIT SURPRISED, Phazeshift... I think Charter would charge us for AIR, if they thought they could get away with it.
I DREAM of the day someone like Verizon lays Fiber Optic cables here and offers some real competition to them... I'll jump so fast their head will spin!
Jeff
OOooooooOO... FIOs..... I DREAM of that always... :p
Bob4action 02-08-07, 01:06 PM if you guys had to choose, which one would you pick and why?
Greetings,
I chose my first Samsung HL-P5674 due to the recommendation of an ISF calibator I have known for several years.
According to Eliab @ www.avical.com, the Samsung can render one of the most accurate PQ with proper calibration of any consumer display currently available.
Granted, the OOB settings do leave something to be desired.
That was the reason I went with a HL-S5086 as well,
YMMV,
b.
I I'm a big XBox Live gamer, and at the time I bought the TV, I wasn't aware of HDTV lag.
Hmm never experienced it with mine. The game mode is the one reason I got the Samsung. I use VGA and have it set to 1280x720 I see no delayed reaction. I know other guys in my Clan with Samsung TV's and no issues either.
civictyper116 02-08-07, 03:40 PM Are u using the xbox or Xbox 360 i never experienced lag with my 360.
I too am struggling between the Sony and the Samsung. However, when I was in the store, the Samsung and the Sony were side by side, and the Samsung looked much brighter and crisper than the Sony. Also the Sony seemed to have the "black screen door" effect when I was up close to it. Not sure if there is an issue with the Samsung, but my friend has the Sony and he said he likes it b/c the Sony doesnt glare when there are bright lights on as some other tv's do.
I am really bummed about not having a built-in QAM tuner in the Samsungs. I really just want to view locals in HD.
Know if the new Sony's have a usb memory card ready?
I too am struggling between the Sony and the Samsung. However, when I was in the store, the Samsung and the Sony were side by side, and the Samsung looked much brighter and crisper than the Sony. Also the Sony seemed to have the "black screen door" effect when I was up close to it. Not sure if there is an issue with the Samsung, but my friend has the Sony and he said he likes it b/c the Sony doesnt glare when there are bright lights on as some other tv's do.
I am really bummed about not having a built-in QAM tuner in the Samsungs. I really just want to view locals in HD.
Know if the new Sony's have a usb memory card ready?
Yes it does see page 17 of the manual
http://downloadcenter.samsung.com/content/UM/200603/20060325173034171_BP68-00586A-00.pdf
So you think it does have a QAM tuner?
So you think it does have a QAM tuner?
Manual says it accepts unscrambled cable channels without a tuner box. While they may not be calling it a QAM tuner, it has to be able to tune the cable channels if it says you do not need a box.
Phazeshift78 02-08-07, 05:18 PM Hmm never experienced it with mine. The game mode is the one reason I got the Samsung. I use VGA and have it set to 1280x720 I see no delayed reaction. I know other guys in my Clan with Samsung TV's and no issues either.
I ran frame tests between my laptop and TV via VGA at 1280x720 and I measured 1 lag frame (33ms) with game mode off or on. Examples of my frames tests are posted on this website.
http://groups.google.com/group/hdtvlag/files
Going VGA and avoiding component does give the least amount of lag that's tolerable and playable.
sonypete 02-09-07, 01:48 AM Hey guys I can't seem to find the overscan option in the service menu. Is it even an option for us to fiddle with??
P.S. I have a HL-S4676 :)
Manual says it accepts unscrambled cable channels without a tuner box. While they may not be calling it a QAM tuner, it has to be able to tune the cable channels if it says you do not need a box.
KevinW, I see what you mean, but I believe that just means that you can watch regular ntsc cable without a set top box - not necessarily unscrambled HD channels.
Reading through this THREAD (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/archive/index.php/t-693289.html), there are several people that state that the QAM tuner was removed from the HL-Sxx67 series. Look at the thread on that page that starts on 07-05-06 7:05PM by JonDotCom.
It seems that if Sony advertises ATSC and QAM in their spec sheet, that Samsung would do the same if it had it.
Let me know what you think.
KevinW, I see what you mean, but I believe that just means that you can watch regular ntsc cable without a set top box - not necessarily unscrambled HD channels.
Reading through this THREAD (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/archive/index.php/t-693289.html), there are several people that state that the QAM tuner was removed from the HL-Sxx67 series. Look at the thread on that page that starts on 07-05-06 7:05PM by JonDotCom.
It seems that if Sony advertises ATSC and QAM in their spec sheet, that Samsung would do the same if it had it.
Let me know what you think.
You may be correct, Without saying directly QAM, it does leave it open for interpretation. BTW the Manual link is for a HL-Sxx86.
sonypete 02-09-07, 06:14 PM Anyone know anything about 1:1 and overscan options on the HL-S4676 or simliar 720p TV?
DavidHir 02-10-07, 11:05 AM Only one of the two competing HD disk formats is currently 1080 (although HD-DVD is supposedly WORKING on a 1080P version, but then that will make the current 720P machines they're selling sort of obsolete, along with all the 720P discs created to date....
Of course it's possible that even 720P content might look better on 1080P sets, since they're not maxing out their possible resolution... who knows? I pretty much doubt it, however.
Jeff,
I'm not sure where you are getting your information from, but BOTH HD disc formats use 1080p discs. Currently, HD DVD players output 1080i which is a simple deinterlace for most 1080p displays to make 1080p (although the Toshiba HD-XA2 will soon output 1080p). All Blu-ray players output 1080p (though some do it a bit differently than others). But, there are NO "720p" HD players being sold - have no idea where you are getting this.
sonypete 02-10-07, 03:52 PM Well from the lack of response about the overscan option in the service menu and my emtpy handed search, looks like we don't have the ability to turn off overscan huh?
JeffAHayes 02-11-07, 08:51 PM Jeff,
I'm not sure where you are getting your information from, but BOTH HD disc formats use 1080p discs. Currently, HD DVD players output 1080i which is a simple deinterlace for most 1080p displays to make 1080p (although the Toshiba HD-XA2 will soon output 1080p). All Blu-ray players output 1080p (though some do it a bit differently than others). But, there are NO "720p" HD players being sold - have no idea where you are getting this.
Sorry about that, David. I spoke from some of the EARLY research I did, which said the first-generation HD-DVD units weren't capable of 1080P, and from reading what I wrote, I think I may have made some assumptions from there (I really had to go back and re-read a lot of earlier reviews and research I did to try to find where I'd read that, and could find only one source, back from last May).
At any rate, if they're both true 1080P then the whole issue comes down to disk storage size and disk and unit costs, and it looks like HD-DVD is still winning on the price side of things.
For now, I'm still settling for what I can get broadcast, waiting to see how this all settles out.
Jeff
DavidHir 02-11-07, 09:36 PM No problem. I have the PS3 and have used the Toshiba HD-DVD players. Both put out equally fantastic images, but I decided to just stick with Blu-ray/PS3 for now.
Waiting out really is the smart thing to do at this point.
Phazeshift78 02-11-07, 10:00 PM The porn industry will make HD-DVD win over Blu-Ray.... ;)
DavidHir 02-12-07, 11:44 AM My dad received his HL-S5086W yesterday and I hooked it up for him. He's getting HD cable through Comcast today.
However, with standard cable and his DVD player (which is quite poor) the image is a bit murky and dark. Grant you, his room is very lit up, so I know that plays a factor. I'm using "Standard" mode with most settings left at default (50 for everything; 80 for contrast). I left the DNIE on and Warm at 1. I'm hoping things will brighten up a bit with HD cable and a new DVD player. Anyone else encountering this? He won't be getting it ISF'd.
Bob4action 02-12-07, 01:03 PM My dad received his HL-S5086W yesterday and I hooked it up for him. He's getting HD cable through Comcast today.
However, with standard cable and his DVD player (which is quite poor) the image is a bit murky and dark. Grant you, his room is very lit up, so I know that plays a factor. I'm using "Standard" mode with most settings left at default (50 for everything; 80 for contrast). I left the DNIE on and Warm at 1. I'm hoping things will brighten up a bit with HD cable and a new DVD player. Anyone else encountering this? He won't be getting it ISF'd.
Greetings,
You might want to try the following as a starting point courtesy of Eliab @www.avical.com that was posted early somewhere in one of the Samsung HL-S series threads:
Mode: Movie
Contrast: 40
Brightness: 45
Sharpness: 0
Color: 45
Tint: mid
Color tone: warm 2
Digital NR: off
DNie: off
You should also consider a decent dvd player like the Oppo 970 and DVE to further tweak those settings.
YMMV,
b.
Phazeshift78 02-12-07, 01:42 PM My dad received his HL-S5086W yesterday and I hooked it up for him. He's getting HD cable through Comcast today.
However, with standard cable and his DVD player (which is quite poor) the image is a bit murky and dark. Grant you, his room is very lit up, so I know that plays a factor. I'm using "Standard" mode with most settings left at default (50 for everything; 80 for contrast). I left the DNIE on and Warm at 1. I'm hoping things will brighten up a bit with HD cable and a new DVD player. Anyone else encountering this? He won't be getting it ISF'd.
1.) How is he connecting his DVD player to the TV?
a) RCA ?
b) S-Video ?
c) Component ?
2.) Is the DVD progressive scan set ON (must use component)?
a) Yes
b) No
DavidHir 02-12-07, 01:48 PM No, his player is crap - composite at 480i (severe banding as you would expect). Now, it does have component, but I need to get him a component cable and try it out. It's a two or three year old Sony DVD/VHS combo unit - probably very low quality deinterlacer/chipset. I'm going to probably get him an Oppo 970 or Sony H75 and use HDMI or component - then calibrate with Avia and DVE. By the way, has anyone compared component against HDMI on this display?
I would think contrast at 45 would be too low as he watches TV with quite a bit of light on. But, thanks for those settings as I will try them next time I'm over.
Again, the problem may just be standard analog cable and crappy DVD player with a lot of ambient room light. I do know he's getting HD tonight so that should help - I'll see how it looks. I guess even with analog cable I was expected a brighter, punchier image.
DavidHir 02-12-07, 01:51 PM One other thing; can I calibrate each input with its own unique settings? For example, will the calibration I make with cable be different than "AV1," or "AV2"? (I haven't read through the manual yet).
Bob4action 02-12-07, 02:37 PM One other thing; can I calibrate each input with its own unique settings? For example, will the calibration I make with cable be different than "AV1," or "AV2"? (I haven't read through the manual yet).
Greetings,
In the User Menu the settings are universal unless you use the Custom setting.
Keep in mind that the settings I posted above were just for an initial OOB set up. You do need to use DVE to get it dialed in once you upgrade the DVD player, especially if you do not intend to have an ISF calibration.
YMMV,
b.
JeffAHayes 02-12-07, 09:21 PM I really wouldn't try evaluating the set very much until you DO get it hooked up to HD and also get a decent DVD setup. You can get an upconverting DVD for $50-$80 if you watch the sales, and get a decent one (I got a Zenith for $50 on Black Friday I'm really impressed with so far).
I'd also use component inputs or HDMI (and I've read several reports component is often better).
Good luck!
Jeff
Tnedator 02-12-07, 09:39 PM However, it seems that some channels have a cleaner feed than others IMO (no expert here).
EDIT: On a side note, I'm running an XBOX360 through component and the picture is gorgeous. The 5086W is a great tv. I'm just disappointed at HDTV for now.
I absolutely agree there are differences among sources. Not only between channels, but between shows on a given channel, and even between episodes of a given show. Take CSI: Miami. I have seen episodes that were incredibly clear, and others that are grainy. I don't know if this issue is with CBS, the show's source material, or variances in DirecTV's bandwidth.
XBOX360 is a great way to know how good the picture can be, as is HD-DVD if you get the add on drive, or have a stand alone player (Bluray too of course).
HD-Net has some great quality programming, as does Discovery HD.
JeffAHayes 02-13-07, 01:54 AM Some of the wide-shot beach scenes on CSI-Miami -- particularly the helicopter shots coming into the city from the ocean like they had tonight at least once and usually have at least once every episode REALLY show off the benefits of HD... the colors and crispness are AMAZING... you feel like you're there... not only like you're there, but like you're there when the lighting is JUST RIGHT.
I also agree that MUCH (although not all) but MUCH of the HD programming on DiscoveryHD -- particularly programs shot just with DHD in mind -- are simply breathtaking. Someone even told me they're broadcasting in 1080P, although I don't know if that's true, or not, and if it is, I don't know if any of the suppliers have the bandwidth to support it yet.
I'm happy they often run shows like "Sunrise Earth" from 7-8 p.m., as well, so those of us who aren't usually up to watch that when it normally runs can watch it after the news, rathar than re-runs of old sitcoms or some game shows.
Now if all those OTHER CHANNELS that CLAIM they're going HD would just hurry up about it, I'd be even MUCH happier :)
Jeff
Todd Fuller 02-13-07, 08:19 AM Iam waiting for the service tech to come fix my Sammy. 8 months old and the tech told me on the phone, it sounds like the lamp is going so soon (1800 hours), due to a fault in the fan system. Which I can believe since, I dont recall ever hearing the fan, even when i put my head behind the tv, and when i did the lamp area felt HOT. Oh well. I am just happy its under manufacturers warranty. Circuit City Protection plan gave me a week for a local company to respond. It took Samsung 3 days to send someone out, what a difference. I will post the results. I do have one question, do you think he would callibrate my set while he is here? Another thing, I have read the previous posts about coponent or HDMI sources being different. What causes this? I thought HDMI was the best??? Just looking for some enlightenment! Educate me!! What would be the best way to connect my HT system?? I have a Sammy HLS5086W, Time Warner HD-DVR, Sammy DVD HD upconversion, Onkyo Reciever, XBOX 360. Thanks for any suggestions.
Todd Fuller 02-13-07, 11:08 AM Damn that was fast!!! The tech replaced the entire DLP Engine!!!! He told me it was like getting a brand new tv. Only time will tell.
Phazeshift78 02-13-07, 11:12 AM Damn that was fast!!! The tech replaced the entire DLP Engine!!!! He told me it was like getting a brand new tv. Only time will tell.
Did the tech calibrate your renewed TV?
DavidHir 02-13-07, 11:14 AM How long did it take him to replace the light engine?
I was thinking about *maybe* buying a floor model at the store. Is there a menu that will show me how many hours are on the TV? If so, do you know the menu options to get to it?
Slight problem, while watching a commercial dvd, the tv "pops" with a blue screen and message "searching for signal" several times during playback. It only last a second or two and comes right back. Anyone have an idea of where the problem may be, tv, player, or cable? The cable is not monster, but a good quality cable.
Todd Fuller 02-13-07, 02:31 PM Did the tech calibrate your renewed TV?
No, I asked him about it, and he said it is not necessary because PQ is in the eye of the person watching the tv. I dunno, it looks fine to me, i have heard about people who have it calibrated but I dunno if it is really worth it. It took the tech maybe 20 minutes tops. There were two of them here one was doing all the work and the one was answering all my questions, he showed me the new engine and pointed out the color wheel, lamp, and fan. I just wish he could have actually diagnosed the problem instead if just replacing everything. Because after the warranty is up and lets say i start to have the same problem, iam not going to buy the whole damn DLP engine, i would obvisouly want to keep my repair cost to a minimum. Another thing, he didnt even go into the service menu, i found that odd, since he was doing service.
Phazeshift78 02-13-07, 07:40 PM No, I asked him about it, and he said it is not necessary because PQ is in the eye of the person watching the tv. I dunno, it looks fine to me, i have heard about people who have it calibrated but I dunno if it is really worth it. It took the tech maybe 20 minutes tops. There were two of them here one was doing all the work and the one was answering all my questions, he showed me the new engine and pointed out the color wheel, lamp, and fan. I just wish he could have actually diagnosed the problem instead if just replacing everything. Because after the warranty is up and lets say i start to have the same problem, iam not going to buy the whole damn DLP engine, i would obvisouly want to keep my repair cost to a minimum. Another thing, he didnt even go into the service menu, i found that odd, since he was doing service.
Hmmm.. was there a diagnostic test performed after he installed everything? Well, you got a whole new engine, so I'm sure it'll be awhile before you start having issues again.
MASKOAA 02-13-07, 10:02 PM I have a HL-S4266W, was wondering if I hooked my XBOX 360 up through VGA will it get rid of the overscan since there isnt an option in the service menu for it?
Mike Dickman 02-13-07, 10:20 PM I am having a problem with my hln 467. Today a black dot appeared in the exact middle of the screen. At first AI thought it was either a small cluster of stuck mirrors or some dust in the light path. However, if I change inputs from my dvr (on component 3) the black dot goes away. If I switch to antenna or component one or any other input there is no black dot. Does this sound like a tv problem or is this something with my cable company supplied dvr (Moxi dvr)?
JeffAHayes 02-13-07, 11:25 PM I have a HL-S4266W, was wondering if I hooked my XBOX 360 up through VGA will it get rid of the overscan since there isnt an option in the service menu for it?
Well not having an X-Box, I really couldn't say, but I'm assuming it DOES have a VGA output on it and I know the TV DOES have a VGA input on it, so to paraphrase the old Ted Nugent song, "When in doubt, try it out."
I don't see how it could cause any harm. If it does, if the TV's still under warranty just disconnect it and pretend you never did it and call Samsung's warranty department, but don't say I told you to do that, lol.
Seriously, I don't see how it could do anything but work or not work, but if there are possible hazards, those who know more speak before I lead this poor fella astray.
Jeff
Anybody know a good way to get SD to look like something on the HL-S5068WX?
I just got it...360 looks good (with either vga or component, ive tried both), xbox original with HD cables looks good....
But my DVD player and satellite look horrendous, i've played with the picture settings for hours....no luck, it looks way worse than my old rear projection hitachi hdtv...
Obviously i cant have everything in HD constantly, gotta watch SD sometime, but its pretty much unwatchable, any help?
Anybody know a good way to get SD to look like something on the HL-S5068WX?
IBut my DVD player and satellite look horrendous, i've played with the picture settings for hours....no luck, it looks way worse than my old rear projection hitachi hdtv...
Obviously i cant have everything in HD constantly, gotta watch SD sometime, but its pretty much unwatchable, any help?
Did you mean 5086? have you read through the thread it shows many other owner's settings? Something is wrong if your DVD player and your SAT look bad.
Look for the ones by Eliab to get you started.
JeffAHayes 02-14-07, 05:19 PM Anybody know a good way to get SD to look like something on the HL-S5068WX?
I just got it...360 looks good (with either vga or component, ive tried both), xbox original with HD cables looks good....
But my DVD player and satellite look horrendous, i've played with the picture settings for hours....no luck, it looks way worse than my old rear projection hitachi hdtv...
Obviously i cant have everything in HD constantly, gotta watch SD sometime, but its pretty much unwatchable, any help?
Geesh, man this REALLY ECHOES my needs and then some... not for me so much, but for my folks, who are really the ones I bought the HLS4266W for in the first place.
EVERYTHING in the HD tier looks superb, but obviously there's not enough content there to keep them happy, plus there's quite a bit of content elsewhere they want to see, being in the mid-to-late 70s (such as Hallmark, Turner Classic Movies, etc.) When they turn to these channels, well, they were complaining with the OLD, regular tube TV, as well, as they're both about half blind, anyway, but I could never convince them THAT'S the problem, and I still can't... Dark scenes are DARK, and a lot of these scenes -- especially in movies -- were NEVER filmed with thoughts of how they might look on TVs... The higher contrast with lower broadcast standards on SD channels just makes it worse, and I'm fielding complaints from my folks on some of these channels...
I REALLY don't want to go messing with the main contrast and brightness controls, because they're JUST RIGHT for the HD channels. I showed my folks where the PICURE button is, that allows you to change the preset picture value through "movie, custom, etc.," but even that doesn't always do it. So far I've avoided explaining to them that regular TV doesn't usually look as good on an HDTV as it does on a regular TV, because then they're just going to start yelling at me, lol.
Are there any EASY "magic fixes" or presets I can set up that will be easy for them to toggle through when they go from HD to SD so I can have a bit more peace here (by the way, the pictures on SD are at least tolerable to me, but with their failing eyesight, they just can't make them out).
Exasperated!
Jeff
Its really bad too, because the main reason i got this tv was because of how excellent my uncle's Samsung HLN5065W looked with SD content...of course it looks great with HD as well....
We have the same stuff, xboxes, viewsats and similar dvd players, but his blows mine away and his is a 03 model....
There's gotta be something i can do, otherwise im taking this thing back.
This makes no sense, What are your settings? Only the worst analog- like the obscure educational channels look bad on my tv. They would look bad on any TV.
Try these
CUSTOM
Contrast 38
Bright 44
Sharp 29
Color 52
Tint GR 49
Colortemp Warm2
Color weakness GREEN 2
mitsu13gman 02-14-07, 06:23 PM With regards to the complaints of KevinW, JeffAHayes, and Hunng, I had the exact same complaint. I bought this set based on the recommendations given it here by those with far more quantitative savvy than I.
When I first turned it on, it was ATROCIOUS!! It replaced a '98 Sony 35" XBR CRT, and that was FAR AND AWAY this TV's superior.
I used the little calibration disk I got from Circuitcity, and it looked better. The PS3 looked KILLER, but the SD was borderline unwatchable. Anytime I got the brightness high enough to bring out the low-level detail, the bright scenes were totally washed out.
I took the time this evening to go into the Service Menu and reset the GAMMA setting from 4 to 0.
I feel like I just bought ANOTHER new TV!!! Watching "The Fifth Element" on DVD, there were a number of scenes that had more low-level and shadow detail (on my Sony) that were just plain lost on this set. Now they're just as good as they were on my Sony, with the advantage of being about 3x bigger!!
Here's how to get into the menu:
1) With the TV powered on, hit the following key sequence on the remote:
POWER, MUTE, 1, 8, 2, POWER
Yes, I know this will briefly turn the set off. It's easier if the bulb is already warmed up so you get full brightness immediately.
Scroll around through the menus (just like the normal menus for the TV) until you find the setting for GAMMA (I think it's under the 1st or 2nd menu option). Mine was set to 4. I set it to 0 as recommended here, and then exited the menu system (you can't exit the base menu). Then turn the set off and let it sit for 2 minutes (30 seconds is supposed to do it).
When you turn it back on, everything's going to look really dark, and the picture settings you had will have been erased. Also, DO NOT change anythng else in the menu. You can unrecoverably change things within the set. This menu was not meant to be available to the public. Fortunately, this forum exists and this setting kicks butt.
I've got 2 set up right now:
PS3 - Movie mode,
Contrast - 42
Brightness - 40-50 (depending on room light)
Color - 45
Sharpness - 0
TV (SD Cable Box) - Standard Mode
Contrast - 50
Brightness - 70
Color - 50
Sharpness - 0
I know this last one is a bit of a "torch" mode, but my cable box is crap and I've got a lot of ambient light, so this works for me - obviously you'll have to adjust for your own TV set and environment.
Again, I literally feel like I just bought my 2nd new TV in 2 weeks. It definitely delivers on the promise made by others here with this one simple tweak. Obviously your results may vary, but I'm TRULY psyched about how much better the set looks now.
Mike
With regards to the complaints of KevinW, JeffAHayes, and Hunng, I had the exact same complaint. I bought this set based on the recommendations given it here by those with far more quantitative savvy than I.
When I first turned it on, it was ATROCIOUS!! It replaced a '98 Sony 35" XBR CRT, and that was FAR AND AWAY this TV's superior.
I used the little calibration disk I got from Circuitcity, and it looked better. The PS3 looked KILLER, but the SD was borderline unwatchable. Anytime I got the brightness high enough to bring out the low-level detail, the bright scenes were totally washed out.
I took the time this evening to go into the Service Menu and reset the GAMMA setting from 4 to 0.
I feel like I just bought ANOTHER new TV!!! Watching "The Fifth Element" on DVD, there were a number of scenes that had more low-level and shadow detail (on my Sony) that were just plain lost on this set. Now they're just as good as they were on my Sony, with the advantage of being about 3x bigger!!
Here's how to get into the menu:
1) With the TV powered on, hit the following key sequence on the remote:
POWER, MUTE, 1, 8, 2, POWER
Yes, I know this will briefly turn the set off. It's easier if the bulb is already warmed up so you get full brightness immediately.
Scroll around through the menus (just like the normal menus for the TV) until you find the setting for GAMMA (I think it's under the 1st or 2nd menu option). Mine was set to 4. I set it to 0 as recommended here, and then exited the menu system (you can't exit the base menu). Then turn the set off and let it sit for 2 minutes (30 seconds is supposed to do it).
When you turn it back on, everything's going to look really dark, and the picture settings you had will have been erased. Also, DO NOT change anythng else in the menu. You can unrecoverably change things within the set. This menu was not meant to be available to the public. Fortunately, this forum exists and this setting kicks butt.
I've got 2 set up right now:
PS3 - Movie mode,
Contrast - 42
Brightness - 40-50 (depending on room light)
Color - 45
Sharpness - 0
TV (SD Cable Box) - Standard Mode
Contrast - 50
Brightness - 70
Color - 50
Sharpness - 0
I know this last one is a bit of a "torch" mode, but my cable box is crap and I've got a lot of ambient light, so this works for me - obviously you'll have to adjust for your own TV set and environment.
Again, I literally feel like I just bought my 2nd new TV in 2 weeks. It definitely delivers on the promise made by others here with this one simple tweak. Obviously your results may vary, but I'm TRULY psyched about how much better the set looks now.
Mike
Ok, this helped a whole lot....almost watchable now...going to try to play with the regular settings to fine tune it....but its still a bit "off"....my blacks are really suffering, they look like someone is shining a flashlight behind a piece of black construction paper...My Samsung 941BW PC LCD has much deeper, much blacker blacks...how can this be?
Thank u mike for the service menu info...any other things in there that should be changed besides gamma?
JeffAHayes 02-14-07, 08:50 PM It's not THAT BAD on the SD channels on my model, even the worst channels, with the worst programming... it's just a combination of TV being too dark and old people with failing eyesight... BUT I do see a difference between the quality I was getting with the previous tube TV on those SD channels... grainier, and sometimes a bit fuzzier and darker.
Taking the set back IS NOT an option for me at this point, nor do I care to. I just want some EASY, fairly IDIOT-PROOF way to "flip-flop" the set between HD & SD settings. I guess I can finagle the "custom" setting a bit more until it suits my folks OK when they're on SD. Of course they'll never remember to switch back when they're on DVD or HD channels, so I'll have to keep up with that, too, I guess.
I'll see how your suggestions for Custom work out, Kevinw.
Thanks,
Jeff
Oh, just so you know, the movie they were LOUDLY complaining about last night was 1968's "Cactus Flower," starring Goldie Hawn and Walter Matthau. It was on Turner Classic Movies and started out with a night scene, where Goldie comes home at night, into a dark apartment, doesn't turn on the lights, opens her oven and blows out the pilot light, then lies down on her bed to commit suicide... and they're complaining about it being too dark! (Ugh! Old People!!!)
But then, a few minutes later, when there were scenes under "indoor lighting," they were finding every chance to nitpick, as well, saying the colors weren't right, and the darks were too dark, etc. (looked fine to me... just looked like the discretion of a director and lighting director who weren't thinking how something might look on TV when they filmed a movie almost 40 years ago).
At any rate, I'll try your custom settings and see if that helps satisfy the folks.
MASKOAA 02-14-07, 11:55 PM The thing about Standard Def channels on a HDTV is your stretching a low quality 640x480 image to fit 1280x720.....think of what happens when you take a small pic on your computer and try stretching it out to fit your desktop as a wallpaper or you play a movie file full screen that isnt a HD video file same thing.
MacAttack103 02-15-07, 02:27 AM mitsu13gman,
In regards to your suggested settings. This settiong is not going to be for everyone. I find that my picture on my S5086W is much better with my Gamma on 4. I think that everyone should be reminded that it is up to them as to there settings. And that the settings are in the eye of the beholder or in this case the one watching the TV. You all do need to move the Gamma back and forth to get what is right for each individual. I think the Gamma set as Zero (0) is a washed out look.
Todd Fuller 02-15-07, 07:43 AM You are correct MASKOAA.
On my TimeWarner HDDVR I can set the settings to fit each format, 480i, 720p, 1080i, 1080p. This is done by turning the box off and holding info and guide (on the box, not the remote) at the same time. A screen will pop up and you just select all the formats in which the signal might be (420, 720, 1080). This will automatically set each station to the correct format. Instead of having to STRETCH the SD channels to fit the screen, which will give you that grainy look, the channels will be set in the format to fit the screen automatically. So instead of stretching your SD channels then flipping over to HD and going to "normal" all the channels will fit the screen, HD or SD.
I used to stretch it to fit the screen until i found this out, and the PQ is alot better.
Who is your cable/sattelite provider? You can call them and ask them about how to format the box to your tv since every provider is different.
mitsu13gman,
In regards to your suggested settings. This settiong is not going to be for everyone.
I understand that not all settings are going to be the same. From the sounds of the posts they needed something to help with PQ. I gave them a starting point based upon my settings. I used the Eliab settings as my base point.
I have 3 HD TVS including Toshiba rear projection(50H81) and a Vizio VX32l LCD. The Samsung has the best PQ
Biggest problem may be the feed from the cable co, OR it may be since the folks in there 70's -and not that I consider 70 old in anyway, just like to complain. Crank it up on the highest settings and let it go.
I will look into the Gamma setting considering how much service menu work I had to do on the Toshiba, this will be a piece of cake.
Thanks
Service mode is fun BUT be careful I accidentally reset mine to factory specs :o after moving gamma and adjusting the vertical. Fortunately I had all my settings written down.
MASKOAA 02-15-07, 09:49 AM Is there an logical reason why there isnt a way to adjust the overscan on these models?
Is there an logical reason why there isnt a way to adjust the overscan on these models?
Is it a overscan issue or a geometry issue?
mitsu13gman 02-15-07, 09:58 AM Ok, this helped a whole lot....almost watchable now...going to try to play with the regular settings to fine tune it....but its still a bit "off"....my blacks are really suffering, they look like someone is shining a flashlight behind a piece of black construction paper...My Samsung 941BW PC LCD has much deeper, much blacker blacks...how can this be?
Thank u mike for the service menu info...any other things in there that should be changed besides gamma?
Hunng,
There is also supposed to be an adjustment for the iris, which is not automatic on the Samsung as it is on some other DLPs. I considered playing with this, but after watching the Celtics snap their 18-game losing streak in forced 16:9 mode last night and loving it (non-hd), I think I'm happy with where I am.
I haven't found this setting, so I don't know exactly what to tell you about what it does. In theory, if you cut down the maximum brightness, then you can bring up the black levels a bit.
I think the difference with the PC monitor has to do with size and perceived detail. I'm finding that, as I watch older SD material (including DVDs), that my brain was filling in detail where it simply didn't exist. Coming from my old SD TV, anamorphic material was just so small that you couldn't pick out anything in those little dark coners. Now those corners are roughly 2x the size, so the lack of detail is obvious. I've got to try a few Blu-Ray titles to see if that fills in the missing detail. I know the PS3 looks gorgeous on pretty much any setting.
With regards to the other comments (MacAttack), of course the settings will vary by individual display and source. But given the problems these users had, and how cleanly those dovetailed with the issues I was having, and also seeing how dramatic the improvement was with this one simple tweak, I thought it best to suggest this as a fix for those individual users, which is why I explicictly addressed it to them.
As always, your eye has to be the final judge. I'm exstatic that I can watch SD (from an SD box) stretched by the TV to 16:9 and it looks good. Before this, even 4:3 was dicey.
Mike
MASKOAA 02-15-07, 10:34 AM Is it a overscan issue or a geometry issue?
Overscan, I have a HL-S4266W. When I move the screen from the left to the right or up and down there is a good deal that is getting cut of that I would like back but no option to do so.
mitsu13gman 02-15-07, 11:26 AM Overscan, I have a HL-S4266W. When I move the screen from the left to the right or up and down there is a good deal that is getting cut of that I would like back but no option to do so.
MASKOAA -
I REALLY hate to to keep suggesting the Service Menu to people, but the option to turn off overscan is supposedly in there. If you browse around you should be able to find and disable it.
The bad news?
It gets turned back on whenever the set is powered off. Supposedly some of the newer manufacture dates have this fixed, but the prevailing wisdom was that this had to be enabled for each viewing session.
Mike
Ok, anyone got any idea how to change the iris, i didnt see that in service menu or anything....factory reset helped a smidgeon.
jmp51483 02-15-07, 05:54 PM Just to give an input... the gamma setting made a world of difference on my HLS5086W also... Thanks for giving instructions on that!
K, after factory reset from service menu and some tweaking in regular settings, its pretty watchable now, getting there!
Lemonade727 02-15-07, 09:21 PM I know that there's an option in the service menu to turn off overscan in the 87/88 models. Is this option available in the 86 models? And also is it a permanent change if you can change it in the service menu or does it reset once the TV gets turned off. I read through this entire thread a while back but can't particularly remember this being mentioned and I'm not too fond of the search system since there's WAY too many topics in these forums.
I know that there's an option in the service menu to turn off overscan in the 87/88 models. Is this option available in the 86 models? And also is it a permanent change if you can change it in the service menu or does it reset once the TV gets turned off. I read through this entire thread a while back but can't particularly remember this being mentioned and I'm not too fond of the search system since there's WAY too many topics in these forums.
I didnt see anything about overscan in the service menu, sucky.
Lemonade727 02-15-07, 09:55 PM Bummer :(
Hopefully overscan won't be too bad on my set when I get it...but it would definitely be nice to be able to avoid it.
JeffAHayes 02-15-07, 10:52 PM You are correct MASKOAA.
On my TimeWarner HDDVR I can set the settings to fit each format, 480i, 720p, 1080i, 1080p. This is done by turning the box off and holding info and guide (on the box, not the remote) at the same time. A screen will pop up and you just select all the formats in which the signal might be (420, 720, 1080). This will automatically set each station to the correct format. Instead of having to STRETCH the SD channels to fit the screen, which will give you that grainy look, the channels will be set in the format to fit the screen automatically. So instead of stretching your SD channels then flipping over to HD and going to "normal" all the channels will fit the screen, HD or SD.
I used to stretch it to fit the screen until i found this out, and the PQ is alot better.
Who is your cable/sattelite provider? You can call them and ask them about how to format the box to your tv since every provider is different.
First, Todd, I just the other day saw your response to my response about your problem with your lamp burning out earlier and I want to apologize for making you feel like I was talking down to you, but you were a brand new member to the forum and I had no idea your prior experience and I just wanted to make sure you weren't among the very few who DO do silly things like that (although I didn't think you were) -- although in all fairness, you DID spell "whether" "weather," so I couldn't be ABSOLUTELY sure...
Anyone, my apologies, all the same.
Now, on to your advice above... I'm using a Motorolla HD box with Charter, however I have a COMPLETE owner's manual which I downloaded off the internet from their website, so I'm thinking I could pretty well play with all the settings. My Samsung TV generally at least shows the proper perspective for each channel (4:3 or 16:9) automatically, although the picture settings still seem way off... but on my Olevia LCD, if I have it set for "full," it automatically stretches all the 4:3 signals to 16:9, unless I manually change the picture format on the TV's menu (when I'm on an HD channel, it goes to 4:3 when the feed dictates).
Anyway, my question really is, if I figure out how to get my box to recognize and display the proper settings for each channel, is that something I have to do for each channel, in your experience, or just set up the box to do it for each "format?"
And does it "stick?"
Since both TVs are using the same model of box, but are responding to it somewhat differently, I guess I need to really peruse that manual and fiddle around, huh?
Jeff
sdsalsero 02-15-07, 11:11 PM The HL-S DLP sets don't pass DD5.1 from HDMI to the set's optical out. The audio appears to get decoded inside the set and sent to the optical out as PCM.
Do we know if the newer generation 'fix' this? I have an HL-S4666 and definitely regret this aspect of the TV.
mightydarwin 02-15-07, 11:54 PM I notice that Amazon is no longer carrying the HLS4666W (just a couple of days ago that had it on sale with free shipping). It's only available through marketplace vendors.
Is this model (and perhaps the 42") being discontinued? I know the LED models are now available in 50" and bigger.
I'm looking at either the Toshiba 50HM66 or the HLS4666W. It's just a price issue now. Can't go over $1000 total.
Almost pulled the trigger on the 51F59 but found the burn-in thread (and talked to my bro who has a Mitsu CRT-RPTV). I'm gonna go with the DLP or the Sony 46" WEGA if I can get it for my limit.
Casehead 02-16-07, 12:28 AM Hey Guys,
My friends just got a 4666, and they were wondering what settings other owners use, so they could see what works best for them.
Thanks.
BrianEK 02-16-07, 01:38 AM I have ready bunches of pages from this thread but could not find the answer I was looking for so I'll ask here. Can I save custom picture settings for each individual input on a HL-S5086w or HL-S5686w? Reason I ask is I was thinking of getting a VGA cable for my xbox 360 (along with one of those tv's) but many say the colors looked washed out, so I was hoping I could just turn up the color settings for the VGA input alone, and leave the color setting lower on the other inputs for dvd or cable hdtv. Can this be done?
I have ready bunches of pages from this thread but could not find the answer I was looking for so I'll ask here. Can I save custom picture settings for each individual input on a HL-S5086w or HL-S5686w? Reason I ask is I was thinking of getting a VGA cable for my xbox 360 (along with one of those tv's) but many say the colors looked washed out, so I was hoping I could just turn up the color settings for the VGA input alone, and leave the color setting lower on the other inputs for dvd or cable hdtv. Can this be done?
The VGA can have seperate settings from Component. But the VGA is not washed out. I use it all the time
I set the Gamma at zero and it did not give me the detail in dark areas I like. Place it back t 4 and it does seem better IMO. What is the reasoning behind the Gamma adjustments?
Phazeshift78 02-16-07, 12:01 PM I set the Gamma at zero and it did not give me the detail in dark areas I like. Place it back t 4 and it does seem better IMO. What is the reasoning behind the Gamma adjustments?
I set my GAMMA setting to 0 and my girlfriend and I started to see the rainbow effect on the whites. PQ was also worse on mine, so I set it back to 4. Guess depends on the TV.
Phazeshift78 02-16-07, 12:06 PM I have ready bunches of pages from this thread but could not find the answer I was looking for so I'll ask here. Can I save custom picture settings for each individual input on a HL-S5086w or HL-S5686w? Reason I ask is I was thinking of getting a VGA cable for my xbox 360 (along with one of those tv's) but many say the colors looked washed out, so I was hoping I could just turn up the color settings for the VGA input alone, and leave the color setting lower on the other inputs for dvd or cable hdtv. Can this be done?
When I first hooked up my Xbox360 to my HL5086W via VGA the colors were washed out. But I was able to compensate with the TV's color settings and now I get great PQ. Gears of War looks awesome, especially when I go on a chainsaw massacre. :cool:
hoots711 02-16-07, 02:09 PM Couple of questions for you guys dealing with adding a home theatre in a box to my 50" sammy 720p dlp.
1. I currently have rca's from the monitor out running to the HTIB. Should i look into using the optical out since my HTIB has a optical in?
2. Internal mute: So if i understand it correclty: in order to send my audio out of the monitor jacks i have to turn internal mute on. This is currently working. When i turn internal mute on, my ss speakers produce sounds, turn it off and the tv speakers are back on with the SS off. Anyway to have both on? im trying to perfectly tune the audio sync of the HTIB in milli seconds. if i could hear both the tv speakers and ss speakers i could easily get them sync'ed. Would the optical make any difference in sound sync'ing?
3. Any good center speaker stand for our tv's? I ordered a omnimount since it was only 20 bucks (CCHB1). That should be here in a few days, but i would like to get something nicer if possible.
4. The HTIB has a upscaling dvd which im connecting with a HDMI. I only have watched a dvd or 2, but right now i havnt been able to see any difference between the upscale and playing in a 360 with components. any suggestion?
Thanks All.
1charmedlife 02-16-07, 08:39 PM I've had my 4266w for about a year now, and have a question as I start adding different input sources. I get a lot of channels on my analog cable directly into the set, AND a good number of digital OTA channels as well.
Is there any way to set the TV so that when I choose a channel that is available in OTA HD, it automatically saves that station as a "Air" station, and then if I choose a station that is a cable channel, it automatically goes to the "Cable" setting?
It's frustrating to have to change Antenna/Air before choosing a station every time.
Thanks!
JeffAHayes 02-16-07, 09:11 PM I notice that Amazon is no longer carrying the HLS4666W (just a couple of days ago that had it on sale with free shipping). It's only available through marketplace vendors.
Is this model (and perhaps the 42") being discontinued? I know the LED models are now available in 50" and bigger.
I'm looking at either the Toshiba 50HM66 or the HLS4666W. It's just a price issue now. Can't go over $1000 total.
Almost pulled the trigger on the 51F59 but found the burn-in thread (and talked to my bro who has a Mitsu CRT-RPTV). I'm gonna go with the DLP or the Sony 46" WEGA if I can get it for my limit.
Although I'm plenty satisfied with my 4266, I bought a DLP based on the price-per-screen-size (and quality -- for instance, I might not have paid the same $900 for a Westinghouse... from the displays I've seen in stores, I don't think I'd buy ANY Westinghouse).
Anyway, although I'm quite happy with the DLP, longterm my money is solidly on LCD unless some new technology we don't know about comes along... Plasma has several issues... heavy glass, gas that has to be recharged periodically, high power consumption... DLP is SOOOOO complicated I'm amazed it works as well as it does, and LCD quality just keeps getting better (or maybe I should say it's gotten as good as or better than the best of the others, given the same quality components and price-performance tier).
I know it doesn't have the 10,000-1 contrast ratio plasma does, but I don't know such a high contrast ratio is really necessary... at least I don't THINK it is. I've not been in the position to seriously compare TVs in the $3,000-and-above price range, so I could be all wet, but just from what I see looking at all the new 1080s in all three formats, LCD still looks as good as or better than the other formats with less weight, lower power consumption and fewer potential service needs down the road, I think.
Now, if I'm all wet, somebody tell me so, because I really DO want to know when I'm wrong on an issue. I just can't see the downside to LCD, however, all other things being equal.
Jeff
mightydarwin 02-16-07, 09:31 PM I'm with you on the future of LCD. I love my LCD monitors (2005FPW). For the money a 42" or larger LCD is too much for me to afford, though the Sony 46E2000 has been in my price range before with a CC coupon.
To me the screen door effect is just too irritaing to deal with as is the pixelation in fast motion scenes. Though the WEGA sets don't seem to suffer so much from it. If I can get the 46E2000 for <$1000, I'll do it.
DLP, no matter how delicate the technology of millions of tiny mirrors seems, just works. And well, with fewer artifacts IMO.
Though, I was disuaded from the CRT-RPTV by further reading on this forum and elsewhere, so maybe I will be for DLP (but not likely at this point)
DavidHir 02-16-07, 11:13 PM I just want to say I'm much happier now with my dad's HLS5086W. Initially I thought the image was too dark despite user setting tweaking with analog cable. He now has digital/HD cable and even 480i stations look SO much better now. Given that there's a lot of ambient light in the room, I stick with "Standard" mode, turning off DNIe, and keeping it in Warm 2. I keep the contrast at 80, everything else mid way or default (turning off NR). All in all, I'm much happier about the purchase. The HD channels look good, but I will say that I can tell the difference in resolution between 720p and 1080i (on my CRT RPTV). I just need to pick him up an Oppo 970 or Sony H75 now.
BrianEK 02-18-07, 12:34 AM When I first hooked up my Xbox360 to my HL5086W via VGA the colors were washed out. But I was able to compensate with the TV's color settings and now I get great PQ. Gears of War looks awesome, especially when I go on a chainsaw massacre. :cool:
So will the TV remember what settings I have for each individual input? For example, if I use "movie" settings for my dvd hooked to Component 1, but I set the TV to "Custom", for cable viewing in component 2, etc, will the tv automatically change the pictures settings when I change the input on my tv?
unoriginal12 02-18-07, 11:46 PM So will the TV remember what settings I have for each individual input? For example, if I use "movie" settings for my dvd hooked to Component 1, but I set the TV to "Custom", for cable viewing in component 2, etc, will the tv automatically change the pictures settings when I change the input on my tv?
Yes. I have my HDMI 1 setting for my dvd player which is set to movie and my HDMI 2 setting for cable which is set to custom. On Av 1, I have the PS2, and on Component I have the Wii.
It remembers all of my settings when I switch between them.
Black Rose 02-19-07, 12:14 AM I just purchased the HL-S4266W for my niece and installed it this past weekend. The image on it looked fantastic. By that I mean no "black grass". This was an August build date so they may have resolved the black grass issue. :rolleyes:
I have a HL-S4265W with a January 2007 build date. It has the black grass issue.
But it also needs a new screen, so we'll see how that goes.
EDIT: One thing I noticed between my set and the other sets that are currently in the store is that my TV has a version code of PB02. The remaining TVs at the store (November 2006 build dates) have a version code of PB01. Not sure what the version code refers to, but something has changed.
Yes. I have my HDMI 1 setting for my dvd player which is set to movie and my HDMI 2 setting for cable which is set to custom. On Av 1, I have the PS2, and on Component I have the Wii.
It remembers all of my settings when I switch between them.
He wanted to know if he could have different custon settings between inputs.
Phazeshift78 02-20-07, 11:26 AM So will the TV remember what settings I have for each individual input? For example, if I use "movie" settings for my dvd hooked to Component 1, but I set the TV to "Custom", for cable viewing in component 2, etc, will the tv automatically change the pictures settings when I change the input on my tv?
Any setting changes to any of the modes: 'Custom', 'Movie', 'Standard', or 'Dynamic, are applied to all specified inputs.
For example, say I set and modify my 'Custom' settings for Component 1, then I go to HDMI 1, and change the setting from 'Movie' to 'Custom', I will get the same 'Custom' settings applied from my Component 1.
Each 'input' can have a different 'mode', not different mode settings. A settings change in a view mode is applied to all inputs that use that particular mode.
Make sense? :o
Any setting changes to any of the modes: 'Custom', 'Movie', 'Standard', or 'Dynamic, are applied to all specified inputs.
For example, say I set and modify my 'Custom' settings for Component 1, then I go to HDMI 1, and change the setting from 'Movie' to 'Custom', I will get the same 'Custom' settings applied from my Component 1.
Each 'input' can have a different 'mode', not different mode settings. A settings change in a view mode is applied to all inputs that use that particular mode.
Make sense? :o
What I think can be done is you can have 4 specific settings. HDMI can be CUSTOM, Component can be MOVIE etc. that would give you he option for 4 inputs to have different settings.
DavidHir 02-20-07, 04:02 PM Has anyone compared the scaler of the HLS5086W to that of a lower priced upscaling DVD player? My dad needs a new DVD player; I was thinking the H75 or Oppo 970. However, if the scaler of the Samsung is just as good, I may just have him get the (cheaper) Sony 55 model which is just pure 480p component output and let the display scale.
Also, any difference with component vs HDMI on this display?
Ashtonian 02-20-07, 05:59 PM Thanks to those that gave me the recommendations on the picture settings. Crank looked fanatastic on the new TV last night. Those settings definitely helped.
What setting might they be ?
I plan on watching this bloke tonight
MASKOAA 02-20-07, 06:05 PM What I think can be done is you can have 4 specific settings. HDMI can be CUSTOM, Component can be MOVIE etc. that would give you he option for 4 inputs to have different settings.
Except if you put the same settings for Movie and Standard and Dynamic together Moviealways looks different even at the same contrast and color setting and brightness, and yes I have DNIE off on all non movie modes.
Ashtonian 02-20-07, 06:36 PM The porn industry will make HD-DVD win over Blu-Ray.... ;)
Yes, there are secret discussions going on now and this is the format of choice.
Coming from the producers of this material themselves.
My industry source would not elaborate but pretty much said the industry would go with HD-DVD.
However, With all those Blu-Ray PS3's and currently heavy Blu-ray sales, I don't think we can make a direct parallel to the vhs - beta wars 3 decades ago!
So, do any of you have Blu-ray or HD-DVD cranked out on these? I have the 42'', and I'm wondering which format to get. How do these players, either one, look in comparison to HD from cable? Also, is there really a difference in picture quality in 1080i and 1080p?
Ashtonian 02-20-07, 08:06 PM Hello,
I've already asked this in the Sony E2000 Owners thread, but I also wanted the opinions of Samsung owners, so I will ask again. What do you guys think of Sony KDF50E2000 vs Samsung HL-S5086W? I saw these two products next to each other at the store, and I thought the the Sony's PQ was 10X better. So I'm wondering if this is really the case or if the Samsung at the store just wasn't calibrated correctly.
These two TVs cost about the same, so I'd obviously would like to go with the better set. So, if you guys had to choose, which one would you pick and why? As I'm not the most educated in this matter, I'd appreciate your help. Thanks in advance!
We went to the store looking at the Hitachi models and left with a Sammy because their pictures looked fantastic. Just love the flexibility of the Wiselink interface
JeffAHayes 02-20-07, 09:28 PM Yes, there are secret discussions going on now and this is the format of choice.
Coming from the producers of this material themselves.
My industry source would not elaborate but pretty much said the industry would go with HD-DVD.
However, With all those Blu-Ray PS3's and currently heavy Blu-ray sales, I don't think we can make a direct parallel to the vhs - beta wars 3 decades ago!
You're yankin' our wankers, right, Ashtonian??? :D
Seriously, I KNOW that much to the chagrin of the "legitimate" businesses, the porn industry can and DOES drive such things (and GOOD FOR THEM), but I could SWEAR I remember renting some porn on Beta back in the 80s, during a period when we all we had here was a Beta-Hi-Fi machine, and as Sony isn't the sole owner or provider of Blu-Ray, can they make that sole decision this time, either?
Also, does anyone know what's up with the players? While my local Best Buy has a decent and growing selection of both HD-DVD and Blu-Ray movies and TV Shows (about the same number of each... maybe 100 or so titles), they still have only 1 Blu-Ray player on display (the Samsung), and if they even HAVE an HD-DVD player, I've yet to find it... they certainly don't have one on display, hooked up.
I haven't noticed what Circuit City has in the way of movie selections, but I DID find an HD-DVD player there yesterday, and although the HD-DVD movies all say they're 1080P, the PLAYER was capable of only 720P/1080i, which is what I had thought... For two high-definition recorded media formats that are supposedly trying to storm into the market, I sure don't see much in the way of marketing or product availability in the stores, and I don't think I'd count either one IN or OUT yet.
I wouldn't be the least bit surprised while these two are duking it out to see a format superior to both and somehow less expensive to produce come in and blow BOTH their doors off... wouldn't be the first time.
Jeff
bill0527 02-20-07, 10:04 PM Hey guys, I've been looking at a Sammy DLP at Sam's Club.
The model number is listed as HL-S5065W. I've done a search on here for that model number and also a google search. I can't find out any info about it. What's the difference between the HL-S5065W that I'm looking at and the HL-S5066W that I see everywhere else?
I'm very close to pulling the trigger and getting this TV. Its right in my price range and I'll be using it with my Xbox 360 and my PS3.
wilson10 02-21-07, 04:49 PM Yea, my local Walmart has a Samsung model number HL-S5065S
I cant find anything out about it other then what Walmart lists on their website
Here is a link http://www.walmart.com/catalog/product.do?product_id=5031321
My local store has it cheaper than that and it comes with a stand that I have not seen. I wanted a 1080p Sammy but for 600 dollars less I think I would be just as happy with 720p and this or the 5086w
Thanks
Yea, my local Walmart has a Samsung model number HL-S5065S
I cant find anything out about it other then what Walmart lists on their website
Here is a link http://www.walmart.com/catalog/product.do?product_id=5031321
My local store has it cheaper than that and it comes with a stand that I have not seen. I wanted a 1080p Sammy but for 600 dollars less I think I would be just as happy with 720p and this or the 5086w
Thanks
Go for the 5986 before the 5065 - same price with out the silver casing
rigg419 02-22-07, 02:26 PM Has anyone compared the scaler of the HLS5086W to that of a lower priced upscaling DVD player? My dad needs a new DVD player; I was thinking the H75 or Oppo 970. However, if the scaler of the Samsung is just as good, I may just have him get the (cheaper) Sony 55 model which is just pure 480p component output and let the display scale.
Also, any difference with component vs HDMI on this display?
I just got that Sony to go with the HL-S5686W that I also just received. It's awesome. Just awesome. I had the TV initially hooked up to a cheapo progressive scan player using component and it looked ok, but I figured that since I have this really nice and big tv that I should have a good DVD player to go with it. So, I checked a bunch of reviews on Amazon and narrowed it down to a phillips -which plays everything- and the Sony 75. I had initially looked at the samsung 960, but some peculiarities of that player ruled it out for me (check the reviews over at amazon to see what I mean). So, I eventually went with the Sony which was more than the phillips, and doesn't play as many formats but has great reviews.
Let me say that I think the sony player is as good as you're going to get without using a true hd signal (HD-DVD or BLU Ray). I hooked it up to the sammy with HDMI and it looks incredible (after I tweaked the display settings a bit). I can't specifically say that the old player's component output was the problem, or if it was the Sammy's upscaling chip or if it was just the player, but all I know is that hooking the Sony up via HDMI is a noticeable difference. Everything is sharper and has cleaner lines. It's not like you can see new details in the background or whatever (like when you hook up a real HD signal) but basically everything that should be sharp and in focus looks terrific. I have no doubt that if I hooked up an HD_DVD player or a BLU-Ray player that I would notice a difference between upscaled DVD and HD, but until one of those formats wins (or we all just stream stuff through our home network --like a lot of us here do), then I'm going to be very happy with this player.
As long as you realize going in that Sony won't play everything imaginable (like the phillips or the chineese "off" brands) then IMO you'll be very happy with that n75.
hope that was a good 1st post :)
I did an extensive search and can't come to a conclusion. Does this DLP macroblock with the Faroudja chip set. Trying to decide between the OPPO 970 and the Denon DVD 757. Audio quaility needs to be good.
Any sugestions? Whats been working well with your Samsung?
zetafunction 02-22-07, 07:44 PM Overall, the picture quality on my HL-S4666W is nice, but I have a question about the iris and the SM. When I watched a DVD with subtitles, as the subtitles appeared and disappeared, the picture light level went up, down, up, down... which made it pretty hard to watch. I hear this is caused by the automatic iris--is there somewhere in the service menu I can set this? If you can set it to fixed--is there a particular setting I should aim for? Thanks.
Also, regarding DNIe: is it still necessary to go into the service menu and turn things like BLACK_TINT and WHITE_TINT all the way to 0 to disable DNIe--or is disabling it from the user menu enough? Thanks!
DavidHir 02-22-07, 10:37 PM I just got that Sony to go with the HL-S5686W that I also just received. It's awesome. Just awesome. I had the TV initially hooked up to a cheapo progressive scan player using component and it looked ok, but I figured that since I have this really nice and big tv that I should have a good DVD player to go with it. So, I checked a bunch of reviews on Amazon and narrowed it down to a phillips -which plays everything- and the Sony 75. I had initially looked at the samsung 960, but some peculiarities of that player ruled it out for me (check the reviews over at amazon to see what I mean). So, I eventually went with the Sony which was more than the phillips, and doesn't play as many formats but has great reviews.
Let me say that I think the sony player is as good as you're going to get without using a true hd signal (HD-DVD or BLU Ray). I hooked it up to the sammy with HDMI and it looks incredible (after I tweaked the display settings a bit). I can't specifically say that the old player's component output was the problem, or if it was the Sammy's upscaling chip or if it was just the player, but all I know is that hooking the Sony up via HDMI is a noticeable difference. Everything is sharper and has cleaner lines. It's not like you can see new details in the background or whatever (like when you hook up a real HD signal) but basically everything that should be sharp and in focus looks terrific. I have no doubt that if I hooked up an HD_DVD player or a BLU-Ray player that I would notice a difference between upscaled DVD and HD, but until one of those formats wins (or we all just stream stuff through our home network --like a lot of us here do), then I'm going to be very happy with this player.
As long as you realize going in that Sony won't play everything imaginable (like the phillips or the chineese "off" brands) then IMO you'll be very happy with that n75.
hope that was a good 1st post :)
Thanks for the comments - yes, good post. Have you tried using a calibration disc like Avia or DVE? If not, I bet you could improve it even further. He is using a two or three year old Sony DVD/VHS combo player with a different chipset than the 75 - which I'm sure would be an improvement.
Bob4action 02-22-07, 10:38 PM I did an extensive search and can't come to a conclusion. Does this DLP macroblock with the Faroudja chip set. Trying to decide between the OPPO 970 and the Denon DVD 757. Audio quaility needs to be good.Any sugestions? Whats been working well with your Samsung?
Greetings,
Oppo customer service recommended the 970 with my Sammy 5086. So far their advice has been deadsolid perfect. Not a trace of macroblocking.
YMMV,
b.
dsl_steve 02-23-07, 07:58 AM Overall, the picture quality on my HL-S4666W is nice, but I have a question about the iris and the SM. When I watched a DVD with subtitles, as the subtitles appeared and disappeared, the picture light level went up, down, up, down... which made it pretty hard to watch. I hear this is caused by the automatic iris--is there somewhere in the service menu I can set this? If you can set it to fixed--is there a particular setting I should aim for? Thanks.
Also, regarding DNIe: is it still necessary to go into the service menu and turn things like BLACK_TINT and WHITE_TINT all the way to 0 to disable DNIe--or is disabling it from the user menu enough? Thanks!
First, the HL-S4666 doesn't have an automatic iris. Second, this isn't normal. My HL-S4266 doesn't do that. I've never gone into the service menus--never had a reason too. I even use DNIe once in awhile on standard broadcasts. Out of the box my picture has been beyond my best expectations. Be careful in the service menus. You can really screw things up if you don't know what your doing.
DirkGecko 02-23-07, 10:22 AM Hey guys:
Just a quick note that my lamp has been flickering for the last 10-20h or so. I switched it back to dynamic mode, which helped for a while, but she's flickering pretty badly at that level now. BB service comes out on Monday.
Not upset about the life I got out of it, especially given the "family" duty cycle and hard use. And hell, we've definitely enjoyed those hours. My next lamp should last a lot longer, as we just bought a new house, and the DLP will be moving to a dedicated theater space and won't be used for "general TV".
For all of you hls4266 owners out there who can't seem to live with the black grass, there is hope. I started warranty service through samsung at the end of November 06 and through several attempts to repair the set, there are sending me a brand new hls4676s for replacement at no cost. If anyone has any questions about how to go through the correct channels, just ask.
dsl_steve 02-23-07, 02:48 PM For all of you hls4266 owners out there who can't seem to live with the black grass, there is hope. I started warranty service through samsung at the end of November 06 and through several attempts to repair the set, there are sending me a brand new hls4676s for replacement at no cost. If anyone has any questions about how to go through the correct channels, just ask.
Bought my HL-S4266 in July of 06. It had a very small amount of black grass just above the power button--so small you could cover it with an open hand. Since then it has progressively gotten smaller and now it is completely gone.
Hope your 4676 works out. Good luck!
Black Rose 02-23-07, 03:46 PM I have the black grass on an HLS4265 that I've had for a week. The black grass goes from the bottom of the screen to the top.
I only notice it in really dark scenes and it really doesn't bother me.
Samsung had to order a new screen for me, so I'll see how it is when the new one is installed. I'll talk to the technician about it and see what he can do since he'll be here for awhile installing the new screen anyway.
My set was just too bad. They replaced my screen two times, plus one of the circuit cards. Judging from the info on this site, I had a really bad case of black grass (sounds like a disease). I could have lived with a small amount of black grass, but it covered my entire screen. Other than that, I loved the picture quality. I hope that you have better luck than me.
For all of you hls4266 owners out there who can't seem to live with the black grass, there is hope. I started warranty service through samsung at the end of November 06 and through several attempts to repair the set, there are sending me a brand new hls4676s for replacement at no cost. If anyone has any questions about how to go through the correct channels, just ask.
please tell me how to proceed like you did
Ashtonian 02-23-07, 11:34 PM No, it's actually true. One from an article in the LA Times last week and the other from someone I know and speak to daily.
(I work in Hollywood).
kristie_jeff 02-24-07, 01:42 AM Hello, I am new here. Not sure where to post this. I just bought an HLS-4266w and love it. My only problem is with the built-in speakers.
I have them turned off in the menu because I have all audio running to my A/V receiver (there are no audio connections made to the tv). Every now and then, the internal speakers make an annoyingly loud crackling sound. Rhe only way I can describe it is: you know at the fireworks show, the really big bursts go off, and while the sparklies are falling they make a crackling sound? I get that all the time. It lasts for about 10-2- seconds each time. I finally stuck my head down there and can hear a little noise all the time, but the crackling is really loud.
Since this was a floor model, I know it didn't do this in the store, as we checked it out for about 45 min while it was on. So my first thought was line noise, or electrical interferance. I went out and bought a UPS that has automatic voltage regulation, plugged it in overnight and then connected the tv to one of the battery outlets. Much to my disappointment, the issue is still there. I even managed to switch the ups to battery while the sound was there, and it didn't change at all.
I'm not sure what to do now. Do the UPS's have "filtering" like the monster things do (the ones that cost $150-$230)?
I'm gonna be calling Circuit City to ask them about it tomorrow, but I have seen posts here from very smart and helpful people here, so I though I would ask.
Thanks for any help you can provide.
Jeff
dsl_steve 02-24-07, 07:15 AM Hello, I am new here. Not sure where to post this. I just bought an HLS-4266w and love it. My only problem is with the built-in speakers.
I have them turned off in the menu because I have all audio running to my A/V receiver (there are no audio connections made to the tv). Every now and then, the internal speakers make an annoyingly loud crackling sound.
That is not normal. The audio section of the set is faulty. Have the set repaired or replaced.
kristie_jeff 02-24-07, 03:45 PM Hey,
thanks for the reply dsl_steve. Today I decided to test it some more. I have found that with any video signal, the problem is there. I tried component connections, composite connections and vga, with different devices, and they all do the same. If it is making the sounds, and I disconnect the video cable (or one of the component rca's) the sound is gone.
I have spoken with the store and they are going to let me exchange it. This one was open box, so a new one will cost a little more, but I guess it could be worse.
I have one more question if I may...
I have a belkin UPS that has AVR technology (automatic voltaga regulation). When this sound problem popped up, I went out and bought a Monster power filter thing. Since I now know that the issue is not line noise related, I would like to take the Monster thing back. Will the UPS do the same job? I would prefer to have the ups if possible, because we have a lot of power glitches around here that can last for a minute to an hour. I would prefer not to buy a new bulb anytime soon, so I thought the UPS would give the set time to cool the bulb in the event the power goes off.
Thanks again for the help
Jeff
It sounds like you might have a bad solder joint or some other intermittant connection issue. Bad solder joints are notorious for being temperature, pressure and vibration sensitive. When you pulled out the video cable, you could have also happened to ever so slightly flex the circuit board that all the input/output jacks are part of, temporarily reseating the bad connection. You might get the problem to go away, or reoccur by tapping on the back panel.
Assuming your floor model TV still under factory warranty, you could call Samsung and have a tech check it out. If the problem can be isolated to a particular board, the whole board usually gets replaced with a new one. Intermittent problems are tough to track down. Usually when the tech shows up after a one month wait, the problem can't be reproduced at all. If the difference in price between the floor model and new one was less than 300 dollars, I would definately consider returning it. Chances are the bulb also has few thousand hours on it as well if it had been on the floor for six months.
kristie_jeff 02-25-07, 12:11 AM Thanks eyager
I took the tv back and got a new one. The difference was less than $200, so it's no big deal. I didn't even think about how much time the floor model might have spent running and wasting my lamp time up. Got the new one home and all is well. Been running for about 6 hours now and not one unwelcome sound.
I think I am going to take the Monster power filter thing back. I would rather have a ups with the frequent outages we have here.
Thanks again for you guy's help. I love this forum and I have learned so much here already. I look forward to becoming an expert like ya'll.
Jeff
What is the best way to clean a dlp screen. - Solutions, kits or whatever...
I use a microfiber cloth to dust the screen and wipe it very lightly.
I caught my Wife with a bottle of Windex and some paper towels in her hand headed towards the DLP and had to throw a flying tackle on her...
Any solutions I seem to have some smugs on the screen. I haven't done anything but wipe the screen with a microfiber cloth as suggested.
I am in the market for the samsung HL-S5086W. I will be buying itin the next two or three months.However, I had a few questions for you guys. I head that since samsung's new models will be avialble in april, will this model go outof production, will I still be able to get this set in april or may. Also those who own this set, is there any major problems with this set. I will be using it for SD, HD TV, dvd's, xbox360. I looked at one of the dlp tvs at walmart and did not see any rainbow effect, I don't know what it looks like. Can anyone explain what it looks like. Also the model that I looked was not the 5086. I believe it was a Panasonic.
I would appreciate your inputs.
Cheers!!!
Lemonade727 02-25-07, 05:51 PM I am in the market for the samsung HL-S5086W. I will be buying itin the next two or three months.However, I had a few questions for you guys. I head that since samsung's new models will be avialble in april, will this model go outof production, will I still be able to get this set in april or may. Also those who own this set, is there any major problems with this set. I will be using it for SD, HD TV, dvd's, xbox360. I looked at one of the dlp tvs at walmart and did not see any rainbow effect, I don't know what it looks like. Can anyone explain what it looks like. Also the model that I looked was not the 5086. I believe it was a Panasonic.
I would appreciate your inputs.
Cheers!!!
Well if you can't notice the rainbow effect then don't go looking for it! If you start to look for it to pin-point it out then you might end up noticing it and then be able to not enjoy your set. The 5086 along with the other HL-S series are great tv's especially for the prices. I just recently bought a 5686 and am awaiting the tv to arrive at my house. But if you didn't notice any rainbow effect in the panasonic that you looked at then I wouldn't expect you to notice the effect on the samsung set if you choose to get it.
There's plenty of information in this thread and great recommendations for this series...I think you found a winner
It just feel good to be assured that tv is good, since you are investing $$$$ in it you don't want to deal with the pain of buyers remorse.
Any other comments will be greatly appreciated.
Cheers!!!
Any solutions I seem to have some smugs on the screen. I haven't done anything but wipe the screen with a microfiber cloth as suggested.
I used 3 parts water 1 part vinegar with a microfiber cloth and it cleaned it nicely. I also sprayed the solution on the cloth before cleaning not directly on the screen. Hope this helps anyone that might need it.
DirkGecko 02-26-07, 10:19 AM Hrm. Okay, maybe my lamp isn't going. The flicker issue I saw has since gone away. She's been powered on a few times since, and not once has the flicker come back. Now that I think on it, it was kind of odd that the flicker was WORST on the left side of the display. I canceled the service call, figuring I'll just re-open the ticket if the issue comes back. Anyone ever experience something like that?
Hello all. I have the HLS4266W. Curious as to how a different gamma setting would impact my PQ I went into the service menu. I was cautious, but apparently not cautious enough, as I accidentally activated the Factory Reset function. :mad:
My question concerns what the reset actually resets. Does it only reset all of the the user settings I have tweaked through the normal user menu (Contrast, Brightness, Tint, Sound, etc.) or does it go further and reset other settings? I'm not sure if the sets are tweaked at the factory to meet certain specs before they are shipped. My concern is that if they are, I may have erased those tweaks. I had all of my user menu settings written down so resetting those was not a problem, but I engaged the Factory Reset so soon after entering the service menu that I was not able to write down the service menu settings. I may only be imagining it, but sometimes I now think that the overall PQ has diminished since the Factory Reset. Hopefully it is only my imagination and that all I did was erase my user settings. Anyone know?
I thought the same thing when I did it. Check the Gamma again. I put mine back to 3? instead of zero. I changed the Gamma then hit reset by accident. It did not change back to the original setting.
rigg419 02-26-07, 02:04 PM Thanks for the comments - yes, good post. Have you tried using a calibration disc like Avia or DVE? If not, I bet you could improve it even further. He is using a two or three year old Sony DVD/VHS combo player with a different chipset than the 75 - which I'm sure would be an improvement.
I haven't yet used a calibration disc, mostly because I've been happy with the settings as I have them. I have the samsung on movie with DNIe and NR turned off, and all the other settings pretty near eliab's settings, but a little higher on the contrast and the brightness. I also set the sony to 720p and put it on cinema 2 mode and I'm very happy with the picture. I just bought some new movies over the weekend and they all looked great, and I've been rewatching some movies I already had and they alos look better than they ever have.
I will say that when I first hooked up my laptop - via vga - that the colors and black levels were pretty bad on movie mode, so I changed it to custom and torched up the brightness and contrast and tweaked the other settings a little and now that picture looks pretty good too.
I am still having a problem getting my laptop (alienware sentia 223) to output 1280x720. it seems to olny want to do 1024x768 (which is what I'm using) or 1280x800 (which the samsung doesn't seem to be able to display). It might be the integrated intel graphics chipset, or it may be something else -- I don't know for sure, but I'm not that stressed about it as the picture looks pretty good at 1024x768.
Kevin,
I never actually changed the gamma setting. The problem is that the factory reset function is at the very top of the service menu, one of the first choices. And as I was trying to determine how to navigate the service menu with the remote buttons, I engaged the reset by accident. The screen went white, then black, then the set shut off. When I turned it back on, it had to reprogram channels, all of the user settings were back to the way they were, etc.
cvilletoday 02-26-07, 02:46 PM It just feel good to be assured that tv is good, since you are investing $$$$ in it you don't want to deal with the pain of buyers remorse.
Any other comments will be greatly appreciated.
Cheers!!!
I've had my 5086 for several months now and I still sit there and stare at the HD picture with my mouth half open, drooling. Love it, best TV money I've ever spent. To be completely honest, I don't love DVDs on it but I'm spoiled by the HD pic and I'm not ready to shell out the cash for an HDDVD player yet. So I'd buy it again in a heartbeat, and this forum is amazing for tweaks and info so stay tuned.
Enjoy!!
hoots711 02-26-07, 08:26 PM A little help please.
I have a 5086? 50" dlp 720p. I recently noticed a black line on the left side of the screen. It starts about half way down and extends to the bottom. At the bottom the line is maybe 1-1.5" thick forming a triangle that reaches to the middle left side of the screen.
The line isnt true black, it can be seen through, but obviously something is wrong. I tried to search this thread but came up blank. "I dont know what you call this, so i dont even know what to search for..."
Ok,
1. I bought the tv about 11 months ago, so I would be under samy's warrenty? correct
2. I bought the extended warrenty from Circuit city.
Do i need to call repair for this issue? SHould i call Samsung or CC? Is it something that is severe? (if it is something that the tv would have to be replaced for, should i wait a month or two for my model to be un-replaceable and hope to get a newer samsung?)
Any adivce is appreciated.
Thanks!
theragtopguy 02-26-07, 09:42 PM What is the best way to clean a dlp screen. - Solutions, kits or whatever...
I called Samsung about this and they said to use Isopropanol (rubbing alcohol).
They also said absolutely DO NOT use anything that has ammonia in it as most glass cleaners do.
It does a good job, but it's tough keeping smudges off.
briangtbc 02-26-07, 09:46 PM I purchased my HL-S4266W just over a month ago. Actually, I purchased my first one over a month ago. I exchanged it last week due to a faulty bulb and color wheel. Anyway, on my new unit I noticed something that I didn't notice before on the other unit. When there is a really dark scene or the screen is mostly black, an artifact appears at the top center of the screen, which I can't think of anything better to call than a "starburst". See this poorly taken picture for an example:
img167.imageshack.us/img167/9944/starburstke3.jpg (I can't post URL because I'm a new user. Sorry)
I do have a center channel speaker above the tv set that is mounted on a shelf, but the front part of it rests on top of the tv itself. It's a shielded speaker and I never had any magnetic interference with it on my previous television, in which it also sat on top of. I even went so far as to take the speaker off the television for a few days to see if the problem would go away, but there was no change.
Has anyone else seen something like this? Could this just be a natural phenomenon that comes along with DLP projection sets or should I give Samsung a call for a possible warranty repair?
Thanks.
Ahh, the dreaded Black Grass. Search this thread for it...lots of info. Cannot be rapaired, I'm afraid. It's not from your speaker, BTW...design flaw in the 42".
briangtbc 02-27-07, 12:37 PM Ahh, the dreaded Black Grass. Search this thread for it...lots of info. Cannot be rapaired, I'm afraid. It's not from your speaker, BTW...design flaw in the 42".
So that's what Black Grass is... Before I purchased the tv I saw a lot of people mention that their sets had it, but for the life of me I couldn't find a description of what it was. Oh well, it's not noticeable 95%+ of the time. Thanks for the help!
I purchased my HL-S4266W just over a month ago. Actually, I purchased my first one over a month ago. I exchanged it last week due to a faulty bulb and color wheel. Anyway, on my new unit I noticed something that I didn't notice before on the other unit. When there is a really dark scene or the screen is mostly black, an artifact appears at the top center of the screen, which I can't think of anything better to call than a "starburst". See this poorly taken picture for an example:
img167.imageshack.us/img167/9944/starburstke3.jpg (I can't post URL because I'm a new user. Sorry)
I do have a center channel speaker above the tv set that is mounted on a shelf, but the front part of it rests on top of the tv itself. It's a shielded speaker and I never had any magnetic interference with it on my previous television, in which it also sat on top of. I even went so far as to take the speaker off the television for a few days to see if the problem would go away, but there was no change.
Has anyone else seen something like this? Could this just be a natural phenomenon that comes along with DLP projection sets or should I give Samsung a call for a possible warranty repair?
Thanks.
Make sure your are persitent with your warranty service. Samsung does not admit to the black grass issue. They will try to replace everything in the set before they deem it unrepairable. It took me three months to finally get an exchange. It would have taken longer had I not called them repeatedly.
briangtbc 02-27-07, 01:46 PM Make sure your are persitent with your warranty service. Samsung does not admit to the black grass issue. They will try to replace everything in the set before they deem it unrepairable. It took me three months to finally get an exchange. It would have taken longer had I not called them repeatedly.
In reading one of your previous posts, you mentioned Samsung sent you a HL-S4676S as a replacement. As much as I would love to get a newer, bigger model, I'm just not sure that would work in my situation. My room is fairly small and 42" is just about all I could handle. Plus my wife would probably lose it as she thinks the 42 is way too big as it is right now (we used to have a 27" so she's still not used to seeing so much screen :) )
After reading back on some of the posts, some people mentioned that the Black Grass seemed to lessen or diminish completely as the bulb got some hours on it. For the people that mentioned this 6+ months ago, has the problem really gone away?
This current set is actually the 3rd after two swaps (1st was a 42" LCD that I just couldn't get to look right, 2nd was the 42" Sammy DLP with a faulty color wheel and bulb). I just don't know if I want to deal with another possible exchange at this point. I know where Surfa stands on this, what do the rest of you think?
mitsu13gman 02-27-07, 04:28 PM A little help please.
I have a 5086? 50" dlp 720p. I recently noticed a black line on the left side of the screen. It starts about half way down and extends to the bottom. At the bottom the line is maybe 1-1.5" thick forming a triangle that reaches to the middle left side of the screen.
The line isnt true black, it can be seen through, but obviously something is wrong. I tried to search this thread but came up blank. "I dont know what you call this, so i dont even know what to search for..."
Thanks!
Look for "Shadow on Left Side of Screen" There's a whole thread on it. The mirrors in the light tunnel are coming unglued. You should have at least 12 mo warranty through Samsung, though if you registered online in time, you should have 15 months. You should be able to call up Samsung service and get the repair process initiated.
Mike
Sevenfeet 02-27-07, 04:40 PM In reading one of your previous posts, you mentioned Samsung sent you a HL-S4676S as a replacement. As much as I would love to get a newer, bigger model, I'm just not sure that would work in my situation. My room is fairly small and 42" is just about all I could handle. Plus my wife would probably lose it as she thinks the 42 is way too big as it is right now (we used to have a 27" so she's still not used to seeing so much screen :) )
The HL-S4676 is only two inches wider that the 4266. If you think you can get away with two inches with your wife, then she may not complain (anymore than she does now).
I also has a question about the "Shadow" on the Samsungs. Since, I am in the market for the Samsung DLP HLS5086 I wanted to know is this something that all the models will have or something that a few models show. I am confused, the sony's have the green blob problem, the samsungs have the black grass, rainbow and now the shadow problem. How do you guys decide which tv to buy with all these problems in these TVs. I don't understand how one can out in so much of $$$$ and expect to live with these problems, if not live then at least expect one of these problems to come within a few months or a year of purchase.
Can someone please tell me (not the ones who have lots of $$ who replace their TV every time a new model comes) but those who invest to at least have a 3-5 year life out of the TV, which I still believe is low considering the life of the TV before these new technology showed up. I remember my family buying a TV and replacing it I think after 10 or 12 years. So considering my age I saw my folks replace two TV till the time I was with them.
I also has a question about the "Shadow" on the Samsungs. Since, I am in the market for the Samsung DLP HLS5086 I wanted to know is this something that all the models will have or something that a few models show. I am confused, the sony's have the green blob problem, the samsungs have the black grass, rainbow and now the shadow problem. .
I have a 5086 and have none of the issues regarding a shadow. First you have to remember this is a PICKY crowd, we are also about 1% of the people who purchase TVs. Only people with a problem complain. Most do not see or have issues.
Only certain models had the black grass not the xx86's. Rainbow effect is something seen by a minority of people. The instances is less and less with newer technology. The HLS5086 is a great TV. You will be happy :)
Yeah, I've had my 5086 for a week and love it. :)
cvilletoday 02-27-07, 06:24 PM I have a 5086 and have none of the issues regarding a shadow. First you have to remember this is a PICKY crowd, we are also about 1% of the people who purchase TVs. Only people with a problem complain. Most do not see or have issues.
Only certain models had the black grass not the xx86's. Rainbow effect is something seen by a minority of people. The instances is less and less with newer technology. The HLS5086 is a great TV. You will be happy :)
I second Kevin's (and Tulpa's) comments. I'm not a fanatic about picture quality etc but I am a discerning viewer. I spent more time than I'd admit playing with the settings when I first got the tv but I have since settled into enjoying the picture immensely. I have played with some of the settings posted here and most often I don't notice much of a difference. That is not to say there is no difference, but more to say that I'm an average viewer that appreciates the technology but does not necessarily appreciate the subtleties that many of the posters here do. They are clearly more knowledgeable than I am in these matters, and they astound me with what they know, but if you're an average viewer like me, I think you'll be very happy with the set. As Kevin suggested, it's more likely to have people post when there is a problem rather than when things are great and they're loving the TV.
83trekker 02-28-07, 12:43 AM So like the HLS 1080p thread does anybody here have any tweaks for our 720p sets such as gama , and iris and other settings in the service menu we could change to achieve better pictures?
Lisa413 02-28-07, 12:29 PM I've read almost every post in this thread and can't recall seeing any from women, at least they weren't identified. But my husband and I are kind of opposite from the norm. I get much more worked up over electronics than he does, often having to beg for something new :)
Anyway, we purchased our HL-S4226w last Saturday and just love it. So far, I can't find any black grass. But I do know the picture can look better. I've used several settings from here with some improvement, but talked hubby into getting it ISF calibrated. YEA!!!!
Here's what I'm wondering:
Can I copy and paste the email I received from an ISF calibrator that we are planning to use? He is responding to my inquiry about pricing, but went into some detail about both of our sets. We also have a Panasonic RPTV 47" that we've had for quite a while. I'm wanting some of you on here to give me your opinion of what he had to say, because as much as I've tried to absorb on here, it still is greek to me (and ESPECIALLY my husband).
And regarding his pricing, well it was a nice surprise, but then again, I'm not sure what all he will be doing for that price. As they say, you get what you pay for.
If need be, I can PM it to any that might want to help me if it's not proper to post it on here. For all I know he might read these boards and I'd not want to offend him.
Thanks!
Lisa
samsurd2 02-28-07, 01:02 PM I am in the market for the samsung HL-S5086W. I will be buying itin the next two or three months.However, I had a few questions for you guys. I head that since samsung's new models will be avialble in april, will this model go outof production, will I still be able to get this set in april or may. Also those who own this set, is there any major problems with this set. I will be using it for SD, HD TV, dvd's, xbox360.
I got an HL-S5086W a couple of months ago and have had zero problems to date. I've got it in a system with an AV receiver, upconverting dvd player and a combo dvd recorder/vcr. It's all good. :D
83trekker 02-28-07, 01:59 PM Has anybody tried using a video card from a computer that ha HD output from the video card via componet. I am wondering how good the picture will look for the desktop, gaming, internet. Right now my laptop hooked via vga doesn’t look the greatest such as a LCD monitor hooked up to it.Movies on though look pretty decent. Just wondering if everything will look HD with this set up. Thanks
MASKOAA 02-28-07, 04:25 PM Meh DLP's shouldnt really be used for PC Desktops...for starters to get a clear image you have to be farther back from the TV then you would a Monitor or Laptop so just b/c you have a 50 inch TV not saying you do from 10 feet back its the same size a 17 inch montiro from 1 to 2 feet back.
janet55 03-01-07, 12:19 AM Hi,
Does anybody here now if there is a difference between HL-S4666W and HL-S5086W besides the size and cost? I'm thinking of buying one of the two, and if the difference is just the size I'm inclined to go for the 4666. Any advice?
thax in advance
agreen112 03-01-07, 11:30 AM **wipes the sweat off my forehead**
Got through most of the posts on this thread, about 60%, and had to stop reading... I'm looking to purchase a new Sami soon. I'm looking at the HL-S4666W and the HL-S5087W. 720p or 1080p? X amount or X amount... This will not be my first HDTV purchase, I also own a 51" RP-CRT 1080i (Hitachi xxF59 which has a super-mega thread here) and a 32" LCD 720p. DLP is my next venture...
I'm really interested in the 1080p, but it's about $500 more than the 4666w. Basically, I need some help in making my decision. I've pretty much ruled out the 4266 because I don't want to get one with black grass. Has that been fixed by Samsung yet? I've noticed that most people that have bought one recently haven't seen it yet... I'll most likely go with the 4666w since you can pick one up for under 1k now. Is there a 46" 1080p DLP out there anywhere?
DavidHir 03-01-07, 11:36 AM **wipes the sweat off my forehead**
Got through most of the posts on this thread, about 60%, and had to stop reading... I'm looking to purchase a new Sami soon. I'm looking at the HL-S4666W and the HL-S5087W. 720p or 1080p? X amount or X amount... This will not be my first HDTV purchase, I also own a 51" RP-CRT 1080i (Hitachi xxF59 which has a super-mega thread here) and a 32" LCD 720p. DLP is my next venture...
I'm really interested in the 1080p, but it's about $500 more than the 4666w. Basically, I need some help in making my decision. I've pretty much ruled out the 4266 because I don't want to get one with black grass. Has that been fixed by Samsung yet? I've noticed that most people that have bought one recently haven't seen it yet... I'll most likely go with the 4666w since you can pick one up for under 1k now. Is there a 46" 1080p DLP out there anywhere?
It depends how close you sit to your display as to whether you will benefit from 1080p. But, the 1080p sets do have better contrast ratios.
i am deciding between the 5086w and 5087w and looking at them side by side at CC, the contrast difference isn't as noticeable when viewing straight on, but from the side (about 30-40 degrees either side) you will see a HUGE difference in contrast.
that said, i think im still going to go with the 5086 because of price and also the lack of any real 1080p content for another year or two.
now if i can only decide if i should buy online or locally... :(
cvilletoday 03-01-07, 12:30 PM i am deciding between the 5086w and 5087w and looking at them side by side at CC, the contrast difference isn't as noticeable when viewing straight on, but from the side (about 30-40 degrees either side) you will see a HUGE difference in contrast.
that said, i think im still going to go with the 5086 because of price and also the lack of any real 1080p content for another year or two.
now if i can only decide if i should buy online or locally... :(
FWIW I pricematched locally with online. Local store matched online price by giving free shipping and knocking some off the price of the tv. Ended up costing the same as online. Maybe I got lucky but it worked like a charm. Worth a shot at least.
Good luck
agreen112 03-01-07, 02:13 PM It depends how close you sit to your display as to whether you will benefit from 1080p. But, the 1080p sets do have better contrast ratios.
I sit anywhere from about 7-11 feet from the TV. I have a 51" in the room now (1080i) and it doesn't seem to bother me. A buddy of mine has either the 62 or 63" 1080p Sami and his sectional sits anywhere from 4-8.5 feet from that monster and it looks great to me. SD really looks like crap sometimes, but HD and Blu-ray are lifelike.
I really want the 1080p but then again something is telling me to just wait and go with the 4666w for under a G.
MASKOAA 03-01-07, 03:24 PM agreen you only benefit from a 1080p set if you sit closer and watch 1080p content.
Ok guys, I go to school in South Dakota and I am in Delaware now for spring break. My curosity in the HD world began last month well a two or three months ago but I started asking a few questions last month. Its a small town where I go to school and there is no BB or CC except a Walmart which only has a few HDTV and not impressed by the feed they run.
Anyways I made a Trip to BB today and I was amazed by looking at these TVs. I know I sound ridiculous but all this while I have seen the model that I am interested online. So I checked out the Sammy 5086 and next to it was sony xbr I guess not sure and next to that was the Sammy 46". I noticed that the Sony had the sharpest color of all these, also it was a 1080p. But I also noticed that the 46" sammy was brighter than the 5066. I know that the settings are not the greatest in the store but I am curious is it just the settings or is it that the 46 is brighter and the PQ was sharper than the 5086.
Lastly I turned around and on the opposite isle was a Toshiba 56HM66, which also has a good PQ and the price for it was only $200 more than the 5086.
I am going to take my wife today since I have to get the Green flag from her before I buy. She is happy with the regular small CRT tv. I guess I am the one who is excited and want her to see the difference in the PQ as well.
So can any one tell me about these concerns that I have and also about the Toshiba model.
Cheers!!!
agreen112 03-01-07, 04:23 PM agreen you only benefit from a 1080p set if you sit closer and watch 1080p content.
A 1080p set does nothing for 720p and 1080i feeds? What I mean is, while watching sports or something on a HD channel (normally 1080i) will the 1080p set look better than the 720p set? If so, then wouldn't this also be a benefit for the 1080p. I'm assuming 7-10 ft. is close enough right?
I do plan on buying a PS3 sometime in the near future as well... Does anyone here that owns a HLS 720p series also own a PS3 or Blu-ray player and if so how does Blu-ray look in 720p?
MASKOAA 03-02-07, 11:02 AM Anyone else notice when watching a 2.35.1 DVD the black bars really stand out compared to the shiny black border of the TV itself.
dsl_steve 03-02-07, 12:50 PM Anyone else notice when watching a 2.35.1 DVD the black bars really stand out compared to the shiny black border of the TV itself.
On 2.35:1 I always use Zoom 1. But if I look at the bars, I don't notice them *standing out* though.
mightydarwin 03-02-07, 12:58 PM Hi,
Does anybody here now if there is a difference between HL-S4666W and HL-S5086W besides the size and cost? I'm thinking of buying one of the two, and if the difference is just the size I'm inclined to go for the 4666. Any advice?
thax in advance
I recently bought the HLS4676S at BB. I pricematched it for a sale at Fry's and got it for 999.
Get it if you can! It's thinner than the 4666W, almost half the weight, has a VGA input, and isn't the "floating" screen design, which I didn't care for.
They're being discontinued and are on clearance at BB and Fry's and CC doesn't carry them anymore. It'll have to be bought online before long for the current 46" lines so now is the time to steal one.
davidwb 03-02-07, 01:20 PM I've read almost every post in this thread and can't recall seeing any from women, at least they weren't identified. But my husband and I are kind of opposite from the norm. I get much more worked up over electronics than he does, often having to beg for something new :)
Anyway, we purchased our HL-S4226w last Saturday and just love it. So far, I can't find any black grass. But I do know the picture can look better. I've used several settings from here with some improvement, but talked hubby into getting it ISF calibrated. YEA!!!!
Here's what I'm wondering:
Can I copy and paste the email I received from an ISF calibrator that we are planning to use? He is responding to my inquiry about pricing, but went into some detail about both of our sets. We also have a Panasonic RPTV 47" that we've had for quite a while. I'm wanting some of you on here to give me your opinion of what he had to say, because as much as I've tried to absorb on here, it still is greek to me (and ESPECIALLY my husband).
And regarding his pricing, well it was a nice surprise, but then again, I'm not sure what all he will be doing for that price. As they say, you get what you pay for.
If need be, I can PM it to any that might want to help me if it's not proper to post it on here. For all I know he might read these boards and I'd not want to offend him.
Thanks!
Lisa
lisa -- first, leave your husband and move in with me! i'd love for my wife to be as interested in electronics as i am. your guy is very lucky.
anyway, there's no reason you can't post the portions of the calibrator's e-mail that concerns the sets you have. that would be of interest to many of us here, and we might be able to give you some advice.
as for the pricing, that's probably between you and the calibrator.
good luck (and let me know when you'll be arriving at my house). ;-)
DirkGecko 03-02-07, 01:40 PM If you're seeing too much "grey" in your black bars with 2.35:1 material you:
a.) need to switch out of "dynamic" mode or
b.) you could really do with a bias light
http://www.oceamedia.com/dirk/tv-n-bias.jpg
As to the smaller TV seeming brighter: it is. They both use the same 200W UHP lamp, so the light is spread over a smaller surface area. However, rarely have I found the 50" overwhelmed by ambient lighting. And that's been on bright winter days (there's a huge south-facing bay window in my living room).
Personally, I picked up the the 5086 last April and aside from a few strange blips that occured about 2 weeks ago, I've been loving every minute of it.
DirkGecko 03-02-07, 01:56 PM Here's another quick image of my $24 bias light project that shows the with-and-without. Sorry my F-stop is so off on the left side of the image. I couldn't get my camera to take a good pic with that much darkness. And the blurriness is my DVD player. The pause isn't what I'd call "razor sharp".
http://www.oceamedia.com/dirk/with-and-without.jpg
Still, you get the idea.
I purchased an el-cheapo 18" flourescent fixture and a "daylight" tube from Home Depot. It's attached to the angled back of the TV with some industrial velcro. I shaped the direction of the light with some ultra-white tag board I had laying around. To easily switch it on-and-off, I plugged it into the back of the receiver's outlets. When the receiver comes on, so does the light. And I've experienced NO increased signal noise or interference from the little CF ballast at all.
lamonsasa 03-04-07, 10:00 AM guys i have my new ps3 hooked up with hdmi to my 50' sammy DLP,its 720p native and i have 1 problem, the games have a little cut off part in the bottom that i cant see and well is cut off, the screen is filled up totaly but there is a cut off bit in the bottom and in the top and in the sides, why is that guys? when i set up my ps3 i told the ps3 to choose the highest resolution and it chose 1080i so all games run in 1080i, someone told me the cut off might be due to me running games in 1080i on the 720p native tv so i told the ps3 to run everything in 720p, it was the same problem, please help me whats wrong and how do i fix this? this also happens when i watch HD channels using my HD time warner DVR please help me whats the problem with this
EDIT: i just found out that my tv probably has overscan on, this is my tv btw: http://www.samsung.com/Products/TV/DLPTV/HLS5065WXXAA.asp , can someone guide me on how to get into the service menu and turn overscan off please guys
MASKOAA 03-04-07, 10:55 AM You cant on these TV's but you shouldnt have overscan on the bottom like what your talking about it should be an even amount of overscan all around the image but not cutting off anything that is important. Go to GAMESPOT and go to the review section for PS3 games get me a link to a pic of a game you have and show me how much of it is cut off on your screen.
Since, the 1080p sets have a 10,000:1 contrast and the 720p have 2500:1. I was wondering if someone could tell me if the contrast ratio makes any difference makes any difference.
lamonsasa 03-04-07, 11:21 AM You cant on these TV's but you shouldnt have overscan on the bottom like what your talking about it should be an even amount of overscan all around the image but not cutting off anything that is important. Go to GAMESPOT and go to the review section for PS3 games get me a link to a pic of a game you have and show me how much of it is cut off on your screen.
it is an even amount all around and what do u mean i cant turn it off, theres no option to turn off overscan in the service menu like everyone has been telling me? this happens in all of the games, in virtua fighter 5 for example i can not see the names of the bottom players in the choose a player screen, its cut off in the sides too and in the top too, all around like u said, how can i fix this man? i have the size set to 16:9 and the only other choice is 4:3(the others like zoom and panorama are greyed out). im using the ps3 with hdmi, how can i fix this man?
samsurd2 03-04-07, 06:58 PM Somebody has to says this --- get a grip, for Christsake, and dial back on the sugar or coffee or what ever has you so wired :D
lamonsasa 03-04-07, 07:05 PM Somebody has to says this --- get a grip, for Christsake, and dial back on the sugar or coffee or what ever has you so wired :D
excuse me?
agreen112 03-05-07, 08:38 AM Somebody has to says this --- get a grip, for Christsake, and dial back on the sugar or coffee or what ever has you so wired :D
That's hilarious! Seriously though, why don't you try to use component cables? Maybe it's your HDMI, I've seen a lot of different issues with HDMI and the PS3, nothing like what your experiencing, but it's worth a try. The old PS2 component cables work with the PS3.
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