Ahro,

I agree with you. If the only way to get optimal performance out of this projector is to run through an external scaler then that puts it in a higher price bracket for me. I dont think that is neccesarily a bad thing and I am still very interested in this projector. Even in the $5000-$6000 dollar range this projector is still capable of doing things that other projectors are not.

No disrespect to liebkid but I sure would feel more confident about this projector if got a highly detailed review from someone else and some measurements to go along with it.

This PJ works well on HTPC's and is cheaper than most outboard video processors..

Marcus, I just wanted to drop a note to thank you for all your long-time interest and contribution to this thread and give you congrats for your (finally all setup) new Home Theatre!!! :)


Liebkid, you're welcome. While I try to get the best bang for the buck via research in to my purchases...I have always admitted to just being a plain old consumer. Thus, my comments simply indicate the "WOW" factor me, my family, and friends have towards the image produced by this wonderful projector. I know I agonized for several years about what projector to buy and kept delaying the decision. You're comments have been very helpful to me and I have not regretted my decision to purchase the WD2000U for even one second.

...hehehe...not quite all set up. I think I can talk my wife in to a home theater PC soon. But, meanwhile, I will keep posting comments on the picture quality of movies that I watch.

If you are ever in Vegas...get in touch.

Marcus

Marcus,

I'm presently looking at purchasing this PJ, upgrading from a Toshiba MT700. I'm living in Canada but will be visiting Vegas in the near future. Would you consider showing the PJ?
If so let me know and I'll pm to arrange.

Just curious, (MT700 owner with shell shock), how many hours do you guys have on your WD2000U's so far?

I just pulled the trigger on this projector and a Lumagen HDQ. Replacing a 3 year old Sony HS10, which has been (and still is) a delight.

Thanks to all for the VERY informative posts.

anyone tried the WD2000 with a scaler that outputs RGBHV analog ?

isnt pjcentral suppoed to make a review on the WD2000 ?

Hi All,

This projector has me thinking. My long time quandary has been with brightness. I live in a studio aparment in Manhattan and my primary concern is that my HT is also my living quarters.

I would not be throwing a monster image, either 92" or 100" with a throw and viewing distance of 11'-12'. I have contemplated the Epson 550 as well as the Optoma HD7100, DC3, big contrast, sound brightness, but again, my concern is light.

Is this a worthy consideration, perhaps the ne plus ultra for my needs? I'm not an image freak and would not likely complain about a slight drop in PQ.

Also, does anyone know the street price on these?

Thanks,

Dino in NYC

Hey Todd Acx Give Us Some Feedback As Soon As You Can.very Excited About This Projector I Have Hs 10 Too And Looking At This And Z4 As Possible Replacement.also New Sanyo 75.but Hs10 And Mits Comp Would Help Me Decied. I Need Something That Will Do A 150 Inch Image And After Hs10 Ready For More Light.
Money

Will be glad to! My *only* concern is my screen. I have a 122" SilverStar and am wondering if it is right for the projector. My complaints about the HS10 were really just related to shadow detail/contrast during dark movies and some wash out during daytime viewing with some light spilling in from an adjacent room. I cant wait to give this baby a go.

Agree Totaly On Limitations Of The Hs10.but Have Enjoyed It For 3 Years And Looking Forward To New Bulb And Using It In Another Locale Once I Upgrade.i Have Overworked It By Projecting Onto White Wall At 150 Inch Image But It Has Brought Great Joy.hoping To Get Lots More Punch From Mits Or Sanyo.

If Possible Can You Throw A Picture Against A Wall To See How Mits Does There.hope Jason Got His In .want To Pull Trigger Soon And Sanyo 75 Review Looks Good Too. Will Hold Off Another Week Or Two If I Can.but Suffice It To Say I Have A Lot Of Interest In Your Feedback As The Hs10 Seems To Have Been Good For Us Both.
Money

Any Screenshots?

Does anyone use the Brilliant color setting Dynamic "2"? It seems like this is the best setting and will give you the brightest output and good contrast while still setting the projector lamp to Low..

Does anyone use the Brilliant color setting Dynamic "2"? It seems like this is the best setting and will give you the brightest output and good contrast while still setting the projector lamp to Low..BrilliantColor set at Dynamic "2" in conjunction with Gamma also set at "Dynamic" and lamp on (either low or high), will give you the brightest output the PJ is capable of (the maximum spec'ed lumens actually). However, while contrast stays very good, colors tend to have a slight brownish/ yellow burnt tint to them. It impossible to properly calibrate them at this settings as pure whites also get a yellowish tint and not reacting to any color adjustments, gain or color temperature tweaks. To get the colors right, you'll need to get a light blue filter (or blue gel) in front of the lens to compensate for the tone-offset and this way you can get the colors correct and have the PJ at maximum light output (very, very, very bright at this setting)!!!

good info I might try the blue filter, BTW I did not notice the yellowish burnt on them using the nvidia gamma and color adjustment, also by adjusting the color temprature using the nvidia software..

good info I might try the blue filter, BTW I did not notice the yellowish burnt on them using the nvidia gamma and color adjustment, also by adjusting the color temprature using the nvidia software..Look closely at the colors specially mid and skin tones. You'll notice people's faces look like they have a tan. :)

This question is to someone that actually HAS installed a filter on thier WD2000U, I had it measured at a camera store and he measured it to 86mm, I also called mits and they told me the lens itself is 85mm BUT no one could tell me the thread type. I know that it is too course for a standard fine thread but cannot determine if it is a MEDIUM or COARSE thread. The email response from Tiffen was " The C thread is a 1.0 pitch and the M is a .75. "

Anyone?

This question is to someone that actually HAS installed a filter on thier WD2000U, I had it measured at a camera store and he measured it to 86mm, I also called mits and they told me the lens itself is 85mm BUT no one could tell me the thread type. I know that it is too course for a standard fine thread but cannot determine if it is a MEDIUM or COARSE thread. The email response from Tiffen was " The C thread is a 1.0 pitch and the M is a .75. "

Anyone?

I'm using a Teffen .3 ND filter, 82mm to cut down on brightness and increase CR. The 82mm fits fine. It may take a few times to catch the 'lock'.I'm using a Tiffen .3 ND filter, 82mm to cut down on brightness and increase CR. The 82mm fits fine. It may take a few times to catch the 'lock'. I bought it at B&H electroncis in NYC and it is the only 82mm .3 lens they have from Tiffen. They also have a .6 and .9

I'm using a Teffen .3 ND filter, 82mm to cut down on brightness and increase CR. The 82mm fits fine. It may take a few times to catch the 'lock'.

The 82mm did not "catch" on either of my 2 projectors.

The 82mm did not "catch" on either of my 2 projectors.


Keep trying, it's a tight fit on mine, or buy the one from B&H.

BTW, are you getting noise on both analog AND DVI? I'm also getting jaggies and motion artifacts too. Is ther any way to cut down on the video noise? I'm using mostly theater mode.

BTW, are you getting noise on both analog AND DVI? I'm also getting jaggies and motion artifacts too. Is ther any way to cut down on the video noise? I'm using mostly theater mode.


I am not sure if you are asking me this but I do not use analog, only DVI via VP30 processor and only get motion artifacts once in a while, but this is similar to my RPTV DLP, so not bothered by it.

BTW, are you getting noise on both analog AND DVI? I'm also getting jaggies and motion artifacts too. Is ther any way to cut down on the video noise? I'm using mostly theater mode.Is your input res 720p or native 768 horizontal? I get positively no jaggies nor motion artifacts of any kind feeding it native res via DVI with a proper source material. The WD2000U is very sensitive to source material quality. Any **** will show as it is not forgiving. Analogue (and I only tried component) is a different story and is positively a no-go on this machine IMO.

Is your input res 720p or native 768 horizontal? I get positively no jaggies nor motion artifacts of any kind feeding it native res via DVI with a proper source material. The WD2000U is very sensitive to source material quality. Any **** will show as it is not forgiving. Analogue (and I only tried component) is a different story and is positively a no-go on this machine IMO.


There are people here who DO NOT HAVE outboard processors or HTPCs. How can i feed it 768?! The machine is fine over analog, except for some noise and jaggies. I'd like ot know how to get ri of them with just feeding directly to the PJ or some INEXPENSIVE outboard solution

Is your input res 720p or native 768 horizontal?

I think there are a few posts that state that if you set Overscan to 100%, then you can feed a 720p signal, and there will be one-to-one pixel mapping and the extra pixels are ignored. Doesn't that mean that you should be able to get the identical quality output from the WD2000 for either a 768 or 720 input signal (over DVI), depending on how you set overscan?

I think there are a few posts that state that if you set Overscan to 100%, then you can feed a 720p signal, and there will be one-to-one pixel mapping and the extra pixels are ignored. Doesn't that mean that you should be able to get the identical quality output from the WD2000 for either a 768 or 720 input signal (over DVI), depending on how you set overscan?

From my experience it doesn't mean that. It looks a bit better at 100% overscan, but the PJ like 97%, and will sometimes default back to that if you change inputs.

Another question: At this point, considering that there is an abundance of 1080i sources, if I get an outboard processor, shouldn't it include 1080i de-interlacing capability so that the path to the 768p signal is 1080i->1080p->768p. rather than 1080i->5xx->768p? Which processor in the price range pf the vp30 would provide the same scaling and signal processing quality of DVDO and also 1080i de-interlacing (inverse telecine/motion adaptive de-interlacing?)? Thanks very much. .. Jeff

Another question: At this point, considering that there is an abundance of 1080i sources, if I get an outboard processor, shouldn't it include 1080i de-interlacing capability so that the path to the 768p signal is 1080i->1080p->768p. rather than 1080i->5xx->768p? Which processor in the price range pf the vp30 would provide the same scaling and signal processing quality of DVDO and also 1080i de-interlacing (inverse telecine/motion adaptive de-interlacing?)? Thanks very much. .. Jeff

From what Ive read, the Lumagen HDP and HDQ do exactly what you ask, both <= VP30 in price. I ordered mine from AVS on Wednesday. I selected the HDQ for the extra DVI inputs, but both process video equally.

From what Ive read, the Lumagen HDP and HDQ do exactly what you ask, both <= VP30 in price. I ordered mine from AVS on Wednesday. I selected the HDQ for the extra DVI inputs, but both process video equally.

How do you order this from AVS. I can't seem to find this. (I'm a club member).

It's disappointing to hear that any input but dvi produces a less than stellar picture with this projector. Would the benq 8720 do a better job than the mits when feeding it the same source(xbox360 for example) through component? I really want a bright projector with a good image/contrast, but not be limited to dvi. The IN76 is looking more and more appealing.

How do you order this from AVS. I can't seem to find this. (I'm a club member).

Just call them or send them an email to get a quote. daniel@avscience.com

It's disappointing to hear that any input but dvi produces a less than stellar picture with this projector. Would the benq 8720 do a better job than the mits when feeding it the same source(xbox360 for example) through component? I really want a bright projector with a good image/contrast, but not be limited to dvi. The IN76 is looking more and more appealing.

I really wouldn't take some these posters' words as gospel. I see absolutely no difference between component and DVI. They think they're seeing a difference because they want to and have to justify these ultra expensive outboard processors. It's annoying me because i bought into what was said early on, which turned out to be quite different from the reality of this PJ.

"To get the colors right, you'll need to get a light blue filter (or blue gel) in front of the lens to compensate for the tone-offset and this way you can get the colors correct and have the PJ at maximum light output (very, very, very bright at this setting)!!!"

The filter should increase CR as well. Have you measured it, or noticed it?

"I'm using a Teffen .3 ND filter, 82mm to cut down on brightness and increase CR. "

ND filters do not increase CR; you need a color filter to do that.

Just call them or send them an email to get a quote. daniel@avscience.com


Do you have the telephone number, or could you PM me with the price of the one you orderd on Weds.? Thanks.

There are people here who DO NOT HAVE outboard processors or HTPCs. How can i feed it 768?! The machine is fine over analog, except for some noise and jaggies. I'd like ot know how to get ri of them with just feeding directly to the PJ or some INEXPENSIVE outboard solutionCorrection ahro: I am not using external processor! I either connect the PJ to an HTPC at 768 of course, to my DishNetwork box that output 720p or to my Denon DVD player that does an excellent job and upscaling the signal to 720p and output it via DVI, that's all. The only time I see artifacts is from the Dish box because HDTV Satellite signal sucks as far as quality goes. As for 720p signal handling, as long as overscan is at 100%, the PJ does nothing as far as processing the signal from its native format and that means there will be one-to-one pixel mapping at 720 lines as the extra pixels are simply ignored. The quality of the output from the WD2000 is the same for either a 768 or 720 input signal (DVI of course).From my experience it doesn't mean that. It looks a bit better at 100% overscan, but the PJ like 97%, and will sometimes default back to that if you change inputs.It does. You handle this by storing your favorite settings (image adjustments and overscan) inot one of the PJ's many custom memories that can be addressed to specific inputs. When you change the input, you simply recall your custom setting.Another question: At this point, considering that there is an abundance of 1080i sources, if I get an outboard processor, shouldn't it include 1080i de-interlacing capability so that the path to the 768p signal is 1080i->1080p->768p. rather than 1080i->5xx->768p? Which processor in the price range pf the vp30 would provide the same scaling and signal processing quality of DVDO and also 1080i de-interlacing (inverse telecine/motion adaptive de-interlacing?)? Thanks very much. .. JeffThe Crystalio-I for example. Of course its much more money. I have two, never opened boxes I will be throwing on eBay. If your interested PM me and we'll figure something out.It's disappointing to hear that any input but dvi produces a less than stellar picture with this projector. Would the benq 8720 do a better job than the mits when feeding it the same source(xbox360 for example) through component?In a word, yes.

My Tosh HD DVD player output looks better over analog than DVI.

The Crystalio-I for example. Of course its much more money. I have two, never opened boxes I will be throwing on eBay. If your interested PM me

Thanks Bizplayer. I'm not there yet. When I am, I'll get in touch.

My Tosh HD DVD player output looks better over analog than DVI

One thing that puzzles me is that several other posts have said that the HD-A1 over DVI looks great with the WD2000u. Just hook it up, and that's it. OTOH, since the HD-A1 works much better at 1080i, then the Mitsi scaler would have to come into play, which has been criticized. Does anyone know if the scaler criticism applies to only analog, only DVI, or both? Again, this certainly seems at odds with those who have done a simple direct DVI hookup with excellent results. I welcome replies from all users and thank you. .. Jeff

Thanks Bizplayer. I'm not there yet. When I am, I'll get in touch.Of course, anytime Jeff.One thing that puzzles me is that several other posts have said that the HD-A1 over DVI looks great with the WD2000u. Just hook it up, and that's it. OTOH, since the HD-A1 works much better at 1080i, then the Mitsu scaler would have to come into play, which has been criticized. Does anyone know if the scaler criticism applies to only analog, only DVI, or both? Again, this certainly seems at odds with those who have done a simple direct DVI hookup with excellent results. I welcome replies from all users and thank you. .. JeffIt really depends on the source, to me that is a key issue. I have both a Toshiba HD-A1 (I really have mixed feelings about it, but... its a first-gen product) and also a JVC D-VHS both outputting 1080i to the Mitsu. Feeding the Mitsu an 1080i signal the image is magnificent and marvelously clean. What I assume and it seems clear to me is that the Mitsu does a much better job shrinking a signal from 1080i to 720p than to enlarge a signal from 480i/p to 720p. Does this make any sense?... I guess shrinking information on the WD2000U works out better than having to increase detail that's not there. And by the way, while I connect the HD-A1 to the Mitsu via DVI, my D-VHS deck only has component out, so I have to connected it that way. I'd say the component connection is a bit noisier than the DVI, but other than that, the image is breathtaking and for the most part virtually artifact-free.

anyone using Carada's High Contrat Grey screen with the WD2000? anyone have insight on how these 2 will pair?

I just got back, but I've run into a few bumps. Namely, my laptop only has VGA out, not DVI. Would I still be able to focus using the VGA input and liebkid's test pattern, or should I get the DVI adaptor for my Powerbook. It uses a mini-DVI output that can output either DVI-D or VGA. Secondly, I can't find my binoculars. I just moved here, so they're probably still in a box. (I set up my home theater before I finished unpacking... who says I have screwed up priorities? :D) Are the binoculars necessary, or can I do it with the naked eye?

I just got back, but I've run into a few bumps. Namely, my laptop only has VGA out, not DVI. Would I still be able to focus using the VGA input and liebkid's test pattern, or should I get the DVI adaptor for my Powerbook. It uses a mini-DVI output that can output either DVI-D or VGA. Secondly, I can't find my binoculars. I just moved here, so they're probably still in a box. (I set up my home theater before I finished unpacking... who says I have screwed up priorities? :D) Are the binoculars necessary, or can I do it with the naked eye?DVI better than VGA but pixels matched at 1280x768 should look perfect either way.

DVI better than VGA but pixels matched at 1280x768 should look perfect either way.

I thought it's supposed to be matched at 1280x720?

I thought it's supposed to be matched at 1280x720?No, no. From your Powerbook, you need to feed it the full 1280x768 and the PJ will simply ingore the remaining 48 lines masking them black.

No, no. From your Powerbook, you need to feed it the full 1280x768 and the PJ will simply ingore the remaining 48 lines masking them black.

I am feeding 1280x768 from my HTPC and to get 1:1 mapping the projector is displaying all 768 lines.

I was able to find my binoculars, so I'll hook up my computer tonight after the sun goes down. I'm getting my curtains next week, so then I'll be able to use it any time of the day. :D

I was able to find my binoculars, so I'll hook up my computer tonight after the sun goes down. I'm getting my curtains next week, so then I'll be able to use it any time of the day. :DYay! Let's know how it goes and your impressions when all setup, focused and on screen!

Does anyone have liebkid's test pattern? It appears his server is down again or the file got deleted. I never downloaded it, and I'd like to have it before tonight.

Wasn't Jason Turk supposed to review this PJ this weekend?

Okay, some cloud cover came in, so I've been able to try and focus it, and I just can't get it in focus. I did some googling and found another test pattern similar to liebkid's and I have my PowerBook hooked up via VGA. I went stop by stop, carefully examining each one, and no matter what I do it's always a little out of focus, and I still have the purple/green fringing problem.

So, two thoughts:

1) The poster who mentioned that perhaps the focus stops are too coarse is right, maybe.

2) There really is a bad batch of these out there, maybe.

Does anyone have liebkid's test pattern? It appears his server is down again or the file got deleted. I never downloaded it, and I'd like to have it before tonight.Yes, I downloaded them all and have them all for you guys here (http://216.127.51.88/_downloads/Calibration_Screens_1280x768.zip).

These screens are amazing. the most usefull stuff I've ever used. Remeber to feed them at native res only. IrfanView (the best multimedia viewer for PC) to view them in full screen is also included in the ZIP.

Thanks. I'll try those later. In order to display the image at full resolution I just made it the desktop background for the external monitor (in this case, the Mits). I assume this means it's shown at it's native resolution.

I haven't decided what to do about the purple fringing (I'll post a photo as soon as I find my compactflash card, it's buried in my luggage somewhere). On one hand, it can only be seen from within a few feet of the screen, and only on test patterns then. I have to strain my eyes to notice it from my seating distance.

OTOH, I don't want to settle for a product that is less than what I paid for. It's too late to do anything tonight, so I think I'll probably call Mits tomorrow. I'll call that number someone a few pages back posted.

Thanks. I'll try those later. In order to display the image at full resolution I just made it the desktop background for the external monitor (in this case, the Mits). I assume this means it's shown at it's native resolution.

I haven't decided what to do about the purple fringing (I'll post a photo as soon as I find my compactflash card, it's buried in my luggage somewhere). On one hand, it can only be seen from within a few feet of the screen, and only on test patterns then. I have to strain my eyes to notice it from my seating distance.

OTOH, I don't want to settle for a product that is less than what I paid for. It's too late to do anything tonight, so I think I'll probably call Mits tomorrow. I'll call that number someone a few pages back posted.Use the viewer I sent you. Unless you have the streching and fit-to-desktop optios out of the way and the secondary monitor's output res matched to the Mitsu you might not be getting the right res. make sure the monitor's output is 1280x768 and use irfanview to vew the charts. Onec irfanview is in your system and you click on a pic, after it opens press the ENTER key and it shoots you to full screen mode. Spacebar advances to the next image, retrun to the previous one.

Also, if at seating position or far enough from the screen pass the point where you may notice fringing you can't see it anymore, then don't worry about it. I mean, you won;t be atching movies 3 feet away from your screen right? As long as you cannot see it when you seating, then, its really not there :)

Good luck

I have never seen a perfect projector to date, so as bizplayer said if you cant see it at desired seating position then it doesnt matter. If you are using HTPC on this PJ, give purevideo and theatertek a try, make sure you set the noise reduction on the NVIDIA to 60%, and dxva acceleration "checked", as soon as I uncheck this option DVE will not display the video black color and will clip. I test this using the DVD pluge pattern..The purevideo noise reduction is far the best i've seen compared to FFDShow, SW2 was so noise free and color transition was sooo smooth

Any new reviews or measurements taken on this projector yet ?? I was very excited to hear that people were getting good theater calibrations and still maintaining high lumen output on this projector but it scares me that it may have just been a few people ( like 2 or 3 ) on this forum. Was it all just bad hype ??

scares me that it may have just been a few people ( like 2 or 3 ) on this forum. Was it all just bad hype ??
"hype" ?? On AVS ?? You should be ashamed even thinking such a thing .

Jason, don't want to bug you, but we are anxiously awaiting your review of the wd-2000!

What he said :D

"hype" ?? On AVS ?? You should be ashamed even thinking such a thing .

Well I dont mind the hype as long as there is enough good info to read between the lines. :)

To answer a few questions asked of me, in no particular order:

I am feeding this projector with a Yamaha 2500 DVD player. This is my only dedicated source. I do not have an HTPC, but I'm going to get DirecTV soon.

I have a Mac, which is why I didn't use the software you posted, bizplayer. They don't have a Mac version. I posted a question on a Mac-oriented message board I frequent about finding one, so I'll see what they recommend.

I set the test pattern as my desktop background and used the "center" setting. The other options were tile, stretch to fill, and fill screen. I tried it with both center and fill screen and I didn't see any difference. Stretch to fill didn't work well and I didn't bother testing tile.

And I have decided to keep this projector and live with the fringing. Everything else about it is SO good and I can't notice it no matter how hard I try that I don't think it's worth the hassle to correct a problem I can't see during a movie. At my seating distance I couldn't even see it on any test patterns, both the ones on my computer and the internal Mits pattern.

One final thing: I think the reason I couldn't get it perfectly in focus when I used my computer and a test pattern might have been because of the overscan setting, which I just realized as I'm typing this. Since my DVD player is feeding it 1280x720p, I set the overscan to 100%. My computer feeds it 1280x768p, but I didn't adjust the overscan when I plugged it in. What should the overscan be set to for 768?

cubedude: What is your screen size (e.g., diag) and viewing distance? Tx, Bill

Jason, don't want to bug you, but we are anxiously awaiting your review of the wd-2000!YES!!!

cubedude: What is your screen size (e.g., diag) and viewing distance? Tx, Bill

My screen is 105x45, but right now I don't have an anamorphic lens or VP, so I'm only using ~84" width. Since everything I'm watching is DVD, I zoomed a bit so that the black bars are in the screen border. My seating is at 12 feet.

My screen is 105x45, but right now I don't have an anamorphic lens or VP, so I'm only using ~84" width. Since everything I'm watching is DVD, I zoomed a bit so that the black bars are in the screen border. My seating is at 12 feet.

OK, so you ae sitting at ~ 1.7 screen widths; this would explain why some of the details are not apparant.

ProjectorCentral.com official review on the WD2000U will be up tomorrow!!!

http://www.projectorcentral.com/Mitsubishi-WD2000U.htm

ProjectorCentral.com official review on the WD2000U will be up tomorrow!!!

http://www.projectorcentral.com/Mitsubishi-WD2000U.htm

Wow, who cares? If it is bright, then I am sure they will love it. Why don't you send one of these to Darin. He can do a thorough review for Secrets.

Ericglo

FYI, my new projector has the "color fringing" or "Chromatic Aberration" problem. liebkid, are you saying that none of your 3 projectors had this problem? I have not called Mits on this but from some research on the internet, it seems like some expensive projectors have this same problem, it is only noticable when displaying "white" letters, especially HDTV graphics that are displayed in white. Did anyone get a replacement from Mits that solves this problem?

No, my 3 PJs are absolutely perfect. The only problem I had on one was a bulb dying on one before it reached 100 hours, but Mitsu sent me a replacement within 48 hours (amazing service) so I didn't even bother to mention the occurrence here on the forum. As for focus and optical performance, I rate mine among the best machines I've seen at any price. there is clearly a bad batch out there which hopefully Mitsu is aware of by now and should tackle to everyone's satisfaction.

There a few official reviews coming out and I am very curious to see if any of the units the editors have gotten on their hands for testing, show the problem. Also, the same on Jason's PJ he is to hopefully review soon.

Mine arrives tomorrow. It will be the first thing I test...

ProjectorCentral.com official review on the WD2000U will be up tomorrow!!!

http://www.projectorcentral.com/Mitsubishi-WD2000U.htm

Are we gonna see this today ??

Are we gonna see this today ??I have no clue, I am not affiliated with them in any way. I just happen to visit the site yesterday and noticed their announcement.

the review is up......btw is the color wheel really 2x? i thought it was faster.

...5 segment RGBWY 2x color wheel" ?

If that's correct I'd expect plenty of RB's with video.

This was covered early in this thread. According to Mitsubishi, its a 4x wheel:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=7622787&&highlight=4x#post7622787

then it looks like projectorcentrals got the 2x spec wrong.

Also, PJC was obviously very UNimpressed with the wd-2000 overall, for video performance: only 765 lumens in high mode and 550 lumens in economy mode, when optimized for video; and video scaling, de-interlacing, image softness, and 'shimmering' were all weak points. Boy, does this differ from what we've been hearing in this thread! What's a body to believe? Will be interesting to see Jason Turk's take on it.

"Will be interesting to see Jason Turk's take on it."
.............
No, it will be interesting what Jason's going to do with it after his review.

"Will be interesting to see Jason Turk's take on it."
.............
No, it will be interesting what Jason's going to do with it after his review.


If he gets 1600 lumens out of it calibrated, I'll take it. If his only produces 550 lumens optimized for theater then I think hes going to sell alot of Infocus in76s and Sammy h710s this week.

two things I'd like to state:

1) 4x Colorwheel.
2) Best video projector I've ever owned!

Lots of hype artists on this thread. The Projector Central review was pretty close to the reality I experience. I think it does throw more light than 700 lumens as i had to get an ND .3 filter to cut down on the light in theater mode. Other than that they are right, despite the constant hype of a few who have to use outboard processors. I'd like to sell mine. Honestly, i'd take 2k for it (this is not an ad as I have it in the AVS display devices for sale for much more)

Lots of hype artists on this thread. The Projector Central review was pretty close to the reality I experience. I think it does throw more light than 700 lumens as i had to get an ND .3 filter to cut down on the light in theater mode. Other than that they are right, despite the constant hype of a few who have to use outboard processors. I'd like to sell mine. Honestly, i'd take 2k for it (this is not an ad as I have it in the AVS display devices for sale for much more)
ahro, I sure agree about the hype and some of the ridiculous statements made in this thread but hang in there.
Other than present company (super hyper's):), in the right hands some and maybe this projector can be calibrated and/or modded to throw beautiful images. Though with the great pj's available now I would not go the "make it better" route.
There's still hope...maybe.

I think it does throw more light than 700 lumens as i had to get an ND .3 filter to cut down on the light in theater mode.


With what screen?

I am still waiting to hear more. It appears the 2X speed on PC is wrong, and other than that, it appears the problems were related to the scaling/deinterlacing of a 480 signal. So those that are using other means to perform those tasks or better sources are not to be ignored. Everyone has claimed high brightness, so I question the PC results.

I find it amazing that one review is enough to throw what everyone else has said good about this PJ out the window. Now, is it hype from some, or maybe the passion from others just wanting to hear bad things about this unit to make a point?

Well, at least no word on focusing problems in the review!!! I was waiting for people to throw rocks at me and others for claiming that we were all liers and that all WD2000Us had focusing and optical peformance issues, or that we were blind :)

Best PJ I have ever seen. Beats hands down many 30K PJs I've seen. Good thing many disagree otherwise everyone else making PJs would go out of business. can't wait for Mitsu to release an update to this wiuth a 1080p DMD. Same lens, same bulb, same optical path, same box, same remote and same drawbacks. It will the PJ to wait for!

I don't think projector central's review of this sheds much light on the potential for this projector for video. It is clear that it is being reviewed for its value as a data projector vs. a video projector. I would never feed this projector a 480i or 480p signal for instance. And i don't care about the scaler, as I will be feeding it 720P and 1080i only with overscan off. Since the reviewer didn't even comment on how it looked with a high quality 720P or 1080i signal feeding it I am guessing they didn't even bother to look.

I do find it interesting that they are measuring only 550 and 765 lumens when calibrated for Home Theater use....but at the same time they do measure the 1600 ansi and 2251 when in presentation mode which matches liekid's measurements. If this projector would produce a little better than the 2000:1 in the theater mode at 765 lumens and 550 lumens and have the ability to crank up the lumens to 1600 and 2200 lumens that would be great. I could have a great picture for watching high def sports with the lights on and good HT picture when dark!

liekid,

Are you just using it and calibrating this projector in the higher lumen setting for your large screen? Or are you getting 1600 ansi lumens when set in "theater mode"?

"very UNimpressed with the wd-2000 overall, for video performance: only 765 lumens in high mode and 550 lumens in economy mode, when optimized for video;"

I founde this comnment a bit peculiar; isn't that 2X the brightness of most HT pj's he tests?

Likewise, he complained about the video processing, whereas he routinely cust other pj's slack and says just use an upscaling DVD player.

Back to the calibrated brightness, using one of the presentation modes with a color filter would give more brightness as well as better CR.

I find it amazing that one review is enough to throw what everyone else has said good about this PJ out the window. Now, is it hype from some, or maybe the passion from others just wanting to hear bad things about this unit to make a point?

Well, at least no word on focusing problems in the review!!! I was waiting for people to throw rocks at me and others for claiming that we were all liers and that all WD2000Us had focusing and optical peformance issues, or that we were blind :)

Best PJ I have ever seen. Beats hands down many 30K PJs I've seen. Good thing many disagree otherwise everyone else making PJs would go out of business. can't wait for Mitsu to release an update to this wiuth a 1080p DMD. Same lens, same bulb, same optical path, same box, same remote and same drawbacks. It will the PJ to wait for!

I don't think anyone is doubting your honest reports about this pj, but PJC does make it their profession to review a great number of them, and thus SHOULD be able to give reviews that are consistent in comparing one pj to another. So this first review by an entity that reviews many of them is certainly disturbing to many of us who have been so hopeful of having a bright, affordable, high quality product.

Interesting that mitsubishi says its a 4x color wheel in their email reply on the other thread. But if you look at the other pj's that share a similar body with the 2000, they are 2x color wheels.

I find it amazing that one review is enough to throw what everyone else has said good about this PJ out the window.
Projector Central is not a site to visit for accurate reviews. They are notorious for giving out incorrect info. The only site that tells the unbiased truth is the German site cine4home.de, problem is you have to use babelfish or some other translator. They have an english version of their site, cine4home.com but their translator is around a month behind.

Lots of hype artists on this thread.Why are you upset? What specific posts did you rely on in making a decision to get the WD2000?

I've been following this thread since it's inception and I have concluded that in order to realize the full potential of this pj that I would need to:

1.) Always make sure the overscan is set to 100%. If this is like the Mitsu HC3000, it's possible that on occasion it will revert back to the default setting of 97%.

2.) Run all my sources through an external video processor to feed the pj a 1280 x 768 signal via DVI.

3.) Order the service menu cd and have the pj calibrated by a proffesional.

If I didn't do the above, I should not expect the best that this pj is capable of.

My experience with yellow segment colorwheels (NEC HT410) is that you need to find the mode that turns it off to get accurate calibration. In doing so you get a tremendous lumens loss - more than say the 40% you would get with the typical RGBRGB wheel optimized for 9300K (to pop brightness/contrast numbers). A 60-80% loss then is not out of line. This is simply because RGB has less % of the wheel than they would with a RGBRGB wheel.

Usually PJC is self-consistent within a review - so look at their percentage drops from maximum measured not their absolute lumens values - which are absolutely NOT consistent from review to review, to anyone else or themselves.

Anyways I thought the hype about this was that it had a HT projection wheel with massive lumens - did I miss the fact that it was RGBYW wheel? or did PJC get that wrong?

Using presentation modes with a color filter does not really solve the calibration issues - the White and Yellow segments distort gamma curves significantly - as you only turn them on above say 50% level for Yellow, maybe 80% for white.

damn it!.....i'm a little concerned now since mine arrives friday...lol

anyways to all who have this projector.....what screens are you using or recommend? i'm thinking 120"

Projector Central is not a site to visit for accurate reviews. They are notorious for giving out incorrect info. The only site that tells the unbiased truth is the German site cine4home.de, problem is you have to use babelfish or some other translator. They have an english version of their site, cine4home.com but their translator is around a month behind.

Why are you upset? What specific posts did you rely on in making a decision to get the WD2000?

I've been following this thread since it's inception and I have concluded that in order to realize the full potential of this pj that I would need to:

1.) Always make sure the overscan is set to 100%. If this is like the Mitsu HC3000, it's possible that on occasion it will revert back to the default setting of 97%.

2.) Run all my sources through an external video processor to feed the pj a 1280 x 768 signal via DVI.

3.) Order the service menu cd and have the pj calibrated by a proffesional.

If I didn't do the above, I should not expect the best that this pj is capable of.

Agree, this is what I surmized from this thread as well...

Why are you upset? What specific posts did you rely on in making a decision to get the WD2000?

I've been following this thread since it's inception and I have concluded that in order to realize the full potential of this pj that I would need to:

1.) Always make sure the overscan is set to 100%. If this is like the Mitsu HC3000, it's possible that on occasion it will revert back to the default setting of 97%.

2.) Run all my sources through an external video processor to feed the pj a 1280 x 768 signal via DVI.

3.) Order the service menu cd and have the pj calibrated by a proffesional.

If I didn't do the above, I should not expect the best that this pj is capable of.I agree 100%. I have step one down, the third I'll be doing has soon has I finish painting my room (next week), and the second in January, when I'll be able to afford a video processor + anamorphic lens.

To retret: You're using this projector with a Prismasonic, correct? How's that working out? I'm planning on doing the same thing.

Anyways I thought the hype about this was that it had a HT projection wheel with massive lumens - did I miss the fact that it was RGBYW wheel? or did PJC get that wrong?


It's RGBWY, no doubt. It's printed on its official brochure.
2x or 4x ? Depending on whom you asked. When I viewed it in a dealer room some time ago I was told 2x. However here we also had a response from a Mits rep it's 4x.

Projector Central is not a site to visit for accurate reviews. They are notorious for giving out incorrect info. The only site that tells the unbiased truth is the German site cine4home.de, problem is you have to use babelfish or some other translator. They have an english version of their site, cine4home.com but their translator is around a month behind.Right on.Why are you upset? What specific posts did you rely on in making a decision to get the WD2000?

I've been following this thread since it's inception and I have concluded that in order to realize the full potential of this pj that I would need to:

1.) Always make sure the overscan is set to 100%. If this is like the Mitsu HC3000, it's possible that on occasion it will revert back to the default setting of 97%.

2.) Run all my sources through an external video processor to feed the pj a 1280 x 768 signal via DVI.

3.) Order the service menu cd and have the pj calibrated by a proffesional.

If I didn't do the above, I should not expect the best that this pj is capable of.Exactely how I set up my PJ + fed it via an External Video Processor, posted screenshots of, and reviewed /recommended it as. Thank you.

1.) Always make sure the overscan is set to 100%. If this is like the Mitsu HC3000, it's possible that on occasion it will revert back to the default setting of 97%.

2.) Run all my sources through an external video processor to feed the pj a 1280 x 768 signal via DVI.

3.) Order the service menu cd and have the pj calibrated by a proffesional.

If I didn't do the above, I should not expect the best that this pj is capable of.


And that makes this PJ a what? -- about a $7500.00 unit?

And that makes this PJ a what? -- about a $7500.00 unit?


Nope, about $5700 BUT IMO, a External Scaler is a necessary device with all of my sources so it is a $3200 projector.

And that makes this PJ a what? -- about a $7500.00 unit?

Yeah but then you have a great VP to use with your next PJ...

And that makes this PJ a what? -- about a $7500.00 unit?I need a VP to handle the vertical stretch, so either way I had already budgeted that in. I haven't bought it yet because a) the Mits was about $1000 more than I wanted to spend, but well worth it and b) I waiting to see wait comes out in the next six months. A calibration is something I planned on paying for no matter what PJ I bought, so once again, money already budgeted.

If this projector would produce a little better than the 2000:1 in the theater mode at 765 lumens and 550 lumens and have the ability to crank up the lumens to 1600 and 2200 lumens that would be great. I could have a great picture for watching high def sports with the lights on and good HT picture when dark!


dangc, you make a very good point: for example, with a 120" diag Dalite HighPower screen, and in economy lamp mode, 550 lumens would produce 36 ftL for night-time movie watching, and 1600 lumens would give 105 ftL for daytime sports--both of which should be quite awesome.

I also think we should be comparing this projector to projectors in its class and those are:

Sanyo PLV series
Canon SX50/60

This is a bright projector folks, they just decided to give us a more versatile projector that competes with the Canon except they gave us 16x9, motorized lens shift and focus for less money! It is more versatile because they gave us the theater mode to lower lumens and boost CR for movie watching in the dark. The Canon SX60 provides the same capability and according to Projector Reviews it only produces 400 lumens in Home Cinema mode with the same 2000:1 mode. Next step would be interchangable color wheels......

I know that a couple of people have really put the WD2000 up on a pedestal and if you get a good scaler, then maybe it is that good. I don't think however that you will get more than 2000:1 CR out of the WD2000 and produce 900 lumens like the C3x has been reported to do when calibrated. Therefore it is hard to compare the WD2000 to something like the C3x. I guess it could be sharper, have less convergence problems, and if these things were more important to you then it would be better. It is easy for me because the C3x is not an option because of price. That Infocus* 333 is close though....but trying to ignore that.

*Corrected from Optoma to Infocus

I also think we should be comparing this projector to projectors in its class and those are:

Sanyo PLV series
Canon SX50/60Truly a million miles away at least from the PLVs but it would be indeed interesting to see a formal comparison between then. I was surprised ProjectorCentral didn't mention them as they have also both reviews the PLV-70 and 80.I guess the WD2000U could be sharper, have less convergence problems than the C3x, and if these things were more important to you then it would be better. It is easy for me because the C3x is not an option because of price. That Optima 333 is close though....but trying to ignore that.You mean the Infocus/ Kodak 333, correct? Yes, calibrated it remains definitely brighter than both the SIM2 and the Mitsu. However, not forgetting that the 333 has top-notch internal video processing while the Mitsu can only do its best image when calibrated with the help of an external VP that it absolutely needs, hands down, the Mitsu beats everyone else on sharpness. It is the sharpest 720p class PJ I've even encountered and, though at ProjectorCentral they had no clue what they were doing when reviewing and adjusting the BrilliantColor feature on the WD2000U, the Mitsu, spells the end of high-price 3-chip machines by providing a totally artifact and dithering free image with a color richness typical of 3 chip machines... all this of course when fed its native 1280x768 res via DVI... but, I've made that point clear and clear again and again from the first day on.

The Mitsu is the most accomplished, bright and cost-effective 720p front projection display unit I have ever seen bar none, with features and virtues that go against PJ's in 3x its price range, but its just that. Like other lower grade machines such as the sharp Z2000 for example, it becomes clear that its internal video processing is mediocre if fed anything else than a digital signal that matches the PJ's native display resolution and bypassed of any analogue conversions or added processing. If they fitted the WD2000U with a top-grade video circuitry, the PJ would be 4 grand more... which is the price of a decent external VP, and still, keeping it an awesome value for the money. That is the whole math here.

Still, it will be helpful and needed that several official reviews come out so that we have a broader spectrum of everyone's opinion and performance ratings by the masses, instead of just a few.

If I were in the market for this pj, I certainly would now hold off until more professional reviews become available.

Something tells me the verdict has not come in yet.

Well, I DIDNT hold off. This puppy is now sitting in my office, beckoning me to go home early. The Lumagen HDQ was also delivered today, so my evening's agenda has been written in stone.

Im looking forward to getting this set up seeing what it can do...

Well, I DIDNT hold off. This puppy is now sitting in my office, beckoning me to go home early. The Lumagen HDQ was also delivered today, so my evening's agenda has been written in stone.

Im looking forward to getting this set up seeing what it can do...I trully look forward in your input on the PJ once you have the system up and running. Also, I have never had the opportunity to see the Lumagen HDQ in action but I hear great things about it. I believe you have a killer combo and I will be very interested in having you share your thoughts on your new system!

Have fun :)

Well, I DIDNT hold off. This puppy is now sitting in my office, beckoning me to go home early. The Lumagen HDQ was also delivered today, so my evening's agenda has been written in stone.

Im looking forward to getting this set up seeing what it can do...
I have the same 120" SS as you and use a Hoya HMC ND2 filter with my 4805 ceiling mounted 18' from the screen. For your sake, I hope you ordered a ND4 filter. ;)

And that makes this PJ a what? -- about a $7500.00 unit?

You did not answer my original question:

Why are you upset? What specific posts did you rely on in making a decision to get the WD2000?

I have been part of this thread since day one and have been seeing all the different opinions regarding this PJ and have come up with the following conclusions:

1- There is no perfect PJ.
2- Read or watch the "eye of the beholder".
3- What incentive does a private party reviewer have over a 3rd party reviewer? Politics are everywhere...there is no such thing as the truth.
4- The only one that needs to be happy with the PJ is you...
5- If the WD2000u was a total POS then you wouldn't be reading this...
6- Buy the projector and if you don't like it "RETURN IT" end of story...

I might be slammed from this board forever but what the heck...Liebkid has put more time and energy into this thread then ANY hack sales rep from Mits would do...Sometimes in life you have to just trust your gut...I am sold are you? :cool:

I have been part of this thread since day one and have been seeing all the different opinions regarding this PJ and have come up with the following conclusions:

1- There is no perfect PJ.
2- Read or watch the "eye of the beholder".
3- What incentive does a private party reviewer have over a 3rd party reviewer? Politics are everywhere...there is no such thing as the truth.
4- The only one that needs to be happy with the PJ is you...
5- If the WD2000u was a total POS then you wouldn't be reading this...
6- Buy the projector and if you don't like it "RETURN IT" end of story...

I might be slammed from this board forever but what the heck...Liebkid has put more time and energy into this thread then ANY hack sales rep from Mits would do...Sometimes in life you have to just trust your gut...I am sold are you? :cool:

We all appreciate what liebkid has done for this thread but making a $3000 decision based on one good review is a little too impulsive for me.

We all appreciate what liebkid has done for this thread but making a $3000 decision based on one good review is a little too impulsive for me.


Totally respect your comment, but it's not just ONE there are so many that say this is the PJ to get...Again "eye of the beholder"...3k is a lot of money but in the grand scheme it's a drop in the bucket...

I have been part of this thread since day one and have been seeing all the different opinions regarding this PJ and have come up with the following conclusions:

1- There is no perfect PJ.
2- Read or watch the "eye of the beholder".
3- What incentive does a private party reviewer have over a 3rd party reviewer? Politics are everywhere...there is no such thing as the truth.
4- The only one that needs to be happy with the PJ is you...
5- If the WD2000u was a total POS then you wouldn't be reading this...
6- Buy the projector and if you don't like it "RETURN IT" end of story...

I might be slammed from this board forever but what the heck...Liebkid has put more time and energy into this thread then ANY hack sales rep from Mits would do...Sometimes in life you have to just trust your gut...I am sold are you? :cool:Good call! My thoughts exactly. Liebkid has been extremely thorough, giving of his time and dedicated to the thread. I bought a WD2000U. I love it. Best PJ I could wish for the money. Works for me. It seems it also works for a ton of other people. For some it won't. That's life. And for 3 grand (that you can get back if you don't like it), really, what is there NOT to like? Life good either way :)

i got my wd2000 in today. unfortunately the room isn't finished and i couldn't wait so i projected it on family room wall, which is burnt orange/red color and let me tell you....it looked pretty F'ing good. obviously not the ideal conditions but based on what i saw.....i am psyched about seeing it in the proper setting!

i got my wd2000 in today. unfortunately the room isn't finished and i couldn't wait so i projected it on family room wall, which is burnt orange/red color and let me tell you....it looked pretty F'ing good. obviously not the ideal conditions but based on what i saw.....i am psyched about seeing it in the proper setting!Cool news, congrats! :) Share with us your take on the PJ when your system is up and running... at least on a white wall :) !

Hello all,

I happen to know how stressful it is to buy a projector. I've been lurking around projector central and AVS for a few years...constantly changing my mind about which pj to purchase. Every year the technology was improving, prices dropping, and the sheer numbers of models was overwhelming. Projector Central had this absolutely glowing review of the Sammy. AVS had a power buy. I thought I was ready to buy and even ordered one.

...then...(1) everyone in the country was out of stock. ...and then...(2) suddenly, people who owned them were posting right here on AVS about all the troubles they were having with the Sammy. I was totally flustered and cancelled my order. THANK GOODNESS!

I now own the WD2000. I am projecting it on a Da-Lite high contrast matte white (120 inch diag) screen. This pj works every single time I turn it on. The colors, whites, blacks, contrast, and brightness are so awesome and three dimensional...I am always watching movies with a smile on my face. I get totally absorbed in the film.

In my opinion, I was very disappointed in the projector central review. Reading the review and knowing this projector does make me feel their credibility is not as high as I once thought (their review methodology seems suspect). But, that doesn't really matter. I already made my purchase and I couldn't be more pleased. I've tried to write about my experiences throughout this thread simply to give others an opinion from an ordinary consumer who needs to get the most bang for the buck from his system.

Using a Denon 2910 DVD player, pushing 720p via DVI, the pj set to overscan 100%, and everything else set pretty much to factory settings...I have a wonderful picture. I do plan to add an HTPC to my system...but not until later this year. I do not own a scaler and probably could not or would not want to operate one if I did.

So...all I can say is that I have not had one moment of "post decisional conflict." Hehehe...buyer's remorse. What was important to me (1) a decent picture, (2) able to use it in an all white living room that is not totally dark, (3) a pj that actually works when I turn on the power, and...truly important...(4) hearing my wife tell me how impressed she is watching movies with it.

Using my DISH network receiver via DVI on HD channels is superb...but all the other regular TV channels are tolerable.

I personally can't wait to hook an HTPC in to the system. I would love to have the HTPC include a scaler with robust software controls (user friendly) and then feed all video/audio through the HTPC to the WD2000U.

well, there's my 2 cents for what its worth.

Marcus

We'll have to see what Jason says. The projector central review was horrible, and I happen to like their reviews.

Hello all,

I happen to know how stressful it is to buy a projector. I've been lurking around projector central and AVS for a few years...constantly changing my mind about which pj to purchase. Every year the technology was improving, prices dropping, and the sheer numbers of models was overwhelming. Projector Central had this absolutely glowing review of the Sammy. AVS had a power buy. I thought I was ready to buy and even ordered one.

...then...(1) everyone in the country was out of stock. ...and then...(2) suddenly, people who owned them were posting right here on AVS about all the troubles they were having with the Sammy. I was totally flustered and cancelled my order. THANK GOODNESS!

I now own the WD2000. I am projecting it on a Da-Lite high contrast matte white (120 inch diag) screen. This pj works every single time I turn it on. The colors, whites, blacks, contrast, and brightness are so awesome and three dimensional...I am always watching movies with a smile on my face. I get totally absorbed in the film.

In my opinion, I was very disappointed in the projector central review. Reading the review and knowing this projector does make me feel their credibility is not as high as I once thought (their review methodology seems suspect). But, that doesn't really matter. I already made my purchase and I couldn't be more pleased. I've tried to write about my experiences throughout this thread simply to give others an opinion from an ordinary consumer who needs to get the most bang for the buck from his system.

Using a Denon 2910 DVD player, pushing 720p via DVI, the pj set to overscan 100%, and everything else set pretty much to factory settings...I have a wonderful picture. I do plan to add an HTPC to my system...but not until later this year. I do not own a scaler and probably could not or would not want to operate one if I did.

So...all I can say is that I have not had one moment of "post decisional conflict." Hehehe...buyer's remorse. What was important to me (1) a decent picture, (2) able to use it in an all white living room that is not totally dark, (3) a pj that actually works when I turn on the power, and...truly important...(4) hearing my wife tell me how impressed she is watching movies with it.

Using my DISH network receiver via DVI on HD channels is superb...but all the other regular TV channels are tolerable.

I personally can't wait to hook an HTPC in to the system. I would love to have the HTPC include a scaler with robust software controls (user friendly) and then feed all video/audio through the HTPC to the WD2000U.

well, there's my 2 cents for what its worth.

MarcusMarcus, great post!!!! Cheers!

And that makes this PJ a what? -- about a $7500.00 unit?

I feed my WD2000U directly with 480i from a Pioneer DV-588A (not a high end player) through the component inputs and I find the internal deinterlacing and scaling to be top notch. I rarely see any artifacts and the image is very sharp. I think the idea that a video processor is necessary with this PJ is just not true. I feed HDTV from my HTPC and DVD from the DV-588A and the picture is outstanding. The only need I would have for a VP would be for vertical scaling on 4:3 material. Hopefully Mitsubishi will rev the firmware to add this feature. I plan on upgrading to a Denon 2930 or 3930, which will output at 1280x768 over DVI and will hopefully stretch the 4:3 material.

I feed my WD2000U directly with 480i from a Pioneer DV-588A (not a high end player) through the component inputs and I find the internal deinterlacing and scaling to be top notch. I rarely see any artifacts and the image is very sharp. I think the idea that a video processor is necessary with this PJ is just not true. I feed HDTV from my HTPC and DVD from the DV-588A and the picture is outstanding. The only need I would have for a VP would be for vertical scaling on 4:3 material. Hopefully Mitsubishi will rev the firmware to add this feature. I plan on upgrading to a Denon 2930 or 3930, which will output at 1280x768 over DVI and will hopefully stretch the 4:3 material.Tim, very good news. Congrats! I believe you have managed to adjust your WD2000U to a really good user setting for your specific HT setup and hardware. And I agree, the Mitsu is the most artifact-free PJ I've seen and indeed dead-on crisp sharp unlike any other single or 3 chip 720p class machine I've seen. Glad to hear your focus is good, on the spot and that like many of us, you are enjoying a unit free of optical issues as unfortunately reported by a few. Also true, I believe as well that the idea that a video processor is absolutely necessary with this PJ is not true at all. Of course, a top-notch external VP will likely make many image quality parameters much better, but, for a vast majority of HT users, I think the Mitsu will so a great job by itself. Would you mind sharing with us the settings you've calibrated your Mitsu at on the user menu?

Thanks once more for sharing your thoughts on the PJ with us and congrats again :)

This is an amazing projector. It is extremely quiet, the picture quality is outstanding (esp. after employing some of the tips in this thread), and but for one flaw, the motorized lens is almost PERFECT for my setup. I have the projector on a shelving system behind the seating area, and at that height, the image would normally be cast on the ceiling. (My HS10 was propped with an old stack of floppy disks duct taped together).

http://gallery.avsforum.com/data/501/medium/73215TR_Back_01.JPG


After using the motorized lens, I was able to move it down to the screen without having to prop the projector. It’s the little things, but this one got me giddy!

Focusing the projector was a snap. The *hardest* part of the overall process was working with the motorized lens, zoom and focus to get this 15:9 projector centered and filled to a 16:9 122” screen. Overall, I was amazed at just how many options you have for screen alignment.

http://gallery.avsforum.com/data/501/medium/73215TR_Front_02.JPG

After spending a couple of hours learning the basics of the new Lumagen and doing some simple calibrations with the AVIA disk I felt like I was in a good state to do some test runs. I’m pushing a 480i signal over HDMI from an Oppo 970 to the Lumagen. I threw in some DVDs that I know would give me a variety of dark scenes, action, CGI, etc. Here are my observations:

The Great
Incredible colors, picture quality outstanding
Detail is amazing: I haven’t yet seen HD-DVD or Blue-Ray, but with this detail, I think I’m satisfied to wait a year or so until my player options are more diverse. The combination of the VP and PJ did amazing things to the quality of the picture.
The SilverStar may not be an “ideal” match. For a high-gain screen, as SmithFarmer mentioned, an ND filter would probably be a good choice.
Finally, some good black levels and shadow detail. Coming from a 3 yr old LCD, it was nice to see some black and shadow detail that I’ve been missing.
The fan noise (or lack thereof) just astounds me. I swear I can hear the fan in my Motorola HD-PVR cable box over the projector – and I have to turn off all sound to do that! And this thing sits right behind me! (See the first pic above).
Self contained unit – no filters, etc. Read many LCD threads and the angst over dust blobs abound.



The Bad

When using the motorized lens to lower the image from its original location, a slight glow, or “leakage” as others have called it, remains where the original image was previously. You can only see this when the room is completely darkened. It’s not a deal killer, but it is distracting to have your ceiling glowing. I suppose the remedy would be to ceiling mount this projector and try to minimize the amount of lens shift you would use.

Ultimately, the Deal-Killer for Me

As an enthusiast who has only viewed HT through LCD, I had no idea that I was susceptible to rainbow artifacts. In fact, I bought the LCD originally because I just knew my wife would be susceptible. When HD first came out, we would be at a tradeshow looking at a screen and she would say “this makes me car sick”. I just knew that if there was ever sensitivity to this or anything related to HT or HD, she would have it. Well, surprise, surprise, I am EXTREMELY sensitive to RBE. I see it constantly, especially dark scenes with bright, contrasted images. For instance, watching light saber fights in SWIII was a painful experience. I brought my wife in to watch the same scenes; she loved the image, and saw no rainbows (oh the irony).

So to sum up: if you aren’t sensitive to RBE, this is one truly outstanding projector. I wish I could keep it. I’m actually quite depressed that I can’t, as for me, this would be a near-perfect projector and setup. So, I’m going to keep the Lumagen, get a new bulb for my HS10 and wait for another year or so for some bright LCD projectors with good black levels. (Heck, maybe even 1080p).

Timf98,

I noticed from a different thread that you previously owned the Samsung 710, but returned it because of startup problems. Could you please describe the differences in the picture quality between the two units - the Mitsi WD2000u and the Samsung 710. In particular, please compare picture sharpness, detail, contrast, black levels, brightness, color, and overall image. Overall, which do you prefer for picture quality? Also, do you use the projector with ambient light (i.e daytime)? Compared to a CRT TV, is it adequate for example for watching sports in the middle of the day without pulling all the shades down? And at night, with the lights out, is it too bright, and if so, what do you do to tame it? Thanks very much for your reply. .. Jeff

acx_todd: Give it a few days. When I first powered up the Mits, I saw rainbows everywhere, but now, I hardly notice them. At first I had to be careful about moving my eyes too fast or I'd see them, but now I only see the RBE on, say, a dark scene with a candle, and it appears over the candle when I flick my eyes across the screen. I think my eyes adjusted to it, because now it isn't even a problem.

Or maybe I'm just crazy. :D

Cubedude and acxtodd, surprisingly I experienced the same thing. At first, I saw more rainbows than I do currently. I believe it may take your eyes a little while to adjust. It is a shame about the RBE. It seems like the projector was working very well for your situation. I am extremely happy with the WD2000. For the features and the picture quality I don't think I could have done any better in my environment. Also acx_todd what do you think of the Lumagen ? That is the next stage for me. Thanks a lot.

This is an amazing projector. It is extremely quiet, the picture quality is outstanding (esp. after employing some of the tips in this thread), and but for one flaw, the motorized lens is almost PERFECT for my setup. I have the projector on a shelving system behind the seating area, and at that height, the image would normally be cast on the ceiling. (My HS10 was propped with an old stack of floppy disks duct taped together).

http://gallery.avsforum.com/data/501/medium/73215TR_Back_01.JPG


After using the motorized lens, I was able to move it down to the screen without having to prop the projector. It’s the little things, but this one got me giddy!

Focusing the projector was a snap. The *hardest* part of the overall process was working with the motorized lens, zoom and focus to get this 15:9 projector centered and filled to a 16:9 122” screen. Overall, I was amazed at just how many options you have for screen alignment.

http://gallery.avsforum.com/data/501/medium/73215TR_Front_02.JPG

After spending a couple of hours learning the basics of the new Lumagen and doing some simple calibrations with the AVIA disk I felt like I was in a good state to do some test runs. I’m pushing a 480i signal over HDMI from an Oppo 970 to the Lumagen. I threw in some DVDs that I know would give me a variety of dark scenes, action, CGI, etc. Here are my observations:

The Great
Incredible colors, picture quality outstanding
Detail is amazing: I haven’t yet seen HD-DVD or Blue-Ray, but with this detail, I think I’m satisfied to wait a year or so until my player options are more diverse. The combination of the VP and PJ did amazing things to the quality of the picture.
The SilverStar may not be an “ideal” match. For a high-gain screen, as SmithFarmer mentioned, an ND filter would probably be a good choice.
Finally, some good black levels and shadow detail. Coming from a 3 yr old LCD, it was nice to see some black and shadow detail that I’ve been missing.
The fan noise (or lack thereof) just astounds me. I swear I can hear the fan in my Motorola HD-PVR cable box over the projector – and I have to turn off all sound to do that! And this thing sits right behind me! (See the first pic above).
Self contained unit – no filters, etc. Read many LCD threads and the angst over dust blobs abound.



The Bad

When using the motorized lens to lower the image from its original location, a slight glow, or “leakage” as others have called it, remains where the original image was previously. You can only see this when the room is completely darkened. It’s not a deal killer, but it is distracting to have your ceiling glowing. I suppose the remedy would be to ceiling mount this projector and try to minimize the amount of lens shift you would use.

Ultimately, the Deal-Killer for Me

As an enthusiast who has only viewed HT through LCD, I had no idea that I was susceptible to rainbow artifacts. In fact, I bought the LCD originally because I just knew my wife would be susceptible. When HD first came out, we would be at a tradeshow looking at a screen and she would say “this makes me car sick”. I just knew that if there was ever sensitivity to this or anything related to HT or HD, she would have it. Well, surprise, surprise, I am EXTREMELY sensitive to RBE. I see it constantly, especially dark scenes with bright, contrasted images. For instance, watching light saber fights in SWIII was a painful experience. I brought my wife in to watch the same scenes; she loved the image, and saw no rainbows (oh the irony).

So to sum up: if you aren’t sensitive to RBE, this is one truly outstanding projector. I wish I could keep it. I’m actually quite depressed that I can’t, as for me, this would be a near-perfect projector and setup. So, I’m going to keep the Lumagen, get a new bulb for my HS10 and wait for another year or so for some bright LCD projectors with good black levels. (Heck, maybe even 1080p).


Nice HT and mini-review. Thanks you very much. Now, just like cubedude and 12GAGE did, let me give you an unbiased advice and ask you to do something for yourself. Keep the PJ for at least a couple days! Do it. Do not returned yet. Go ahead... watch some movies, let it run. Don't try to look for RBE everywhere in the pic or move your eyes back and fourth to prove its there. Just watch movies and look at the screen with relaxed eyes. My bet is that in a few days you'll stop noticing RBE and it will never bother you again. When I first jumped from LCD to DLP a few years ago (though I guess I am not particularly too sensitive overall) I had initially the same issue and it was driving me insane, now, its second nature for me. I don't see it. So, give it a few days, trust me, you'll never find another PJ like the Mitsu in 2 or 3 its price range and you'll regret it if you send it back.

I see you like Port Wine. Sandeman :) Good show!

acx_todd,

To amplify what others have said, give it a week or so, there have been quite a few accounts here of RBE greatly lessening or disappearing.

The brain is a miraculous thing.

Ultimately, the Deal-Killer for Me

Well, surprise, surprise, I am EXTREMELY sensitive to RBE. I see it constantly, especially dark scenes with bright, contrasted images. For instance, watching light saber fights in SWIII was a painful experience. I brought my wife in to watch the same scenes; she loved the image, and saw no rainbows (oh the irony).

So to sum up: if you aren’t sensitive to RBE, this is one truly outstanding projector. I wish I could keep it. I’m actually quite depressed that I can’t, as for me, this would be a near-perfect projector and setup.
As others have said, by giving it some time the RBE may go away. In your situation though, the WD2000 combined with the high gain of the SilverStar is probably a recipe for disaster. For people that are RBE sensitive, the brighter the image, the more rainbows they will see. I would think a ND2 filter (more likely ND4) is a must in your situation.

As others have said, by giving it some time the RBE may go away. In your situation though, the WD2000 combined with the high gain of the SilverStar is probably a recipe for disaster. For people that are RBE sensitive, the brighter the image, the more rainbows they will see. I would think a ND2 filter (more likely ND4) is a must in your situation.smithfarmer has a very good point, I hand't thought of that! You might be in the burning-hole-on-the-screen frontier. The SilverStar's gain is probably the last thing you want to potentially amplify someone's RBE sensitivity. Make sure the PJ is in low bulb mode, and furthermore, try setting gamma to normal instead of dynamic and, BrilliantColor to 0 isntead of 1. After that, you'll probably need to slight recalibrate contrast values on the Lumagen or on the PJ, depending on how you are adjusting things. Also, specially now that the bulb is brand new and at full force, you might also want to use at least an ND2 filter. As I have never persoanlly used a SilverStar I have no clue how many footcandles you're getting thrown at the screen, but I am imagining you might be totally under pure sunlight and at rist of getting a tan!

This is an amazing projector. It is extremely quiet, the picture quality is outstanding (esp. after employing some of the tips in this thread), and but for one flaw, the motorized lens is almost PERFECT for my setup. I have the projector on a shelving system behind the seating area, and at that height, the image would normally be cast on the ceiling. (My HS10 was propped with an old stack of floppy disks duct taped together).

http://gallery.avsforum.com/data/501/medium/73215TR_Back_01.JPG

After using the motorized lens, I was able to move it down to the screen without having to prop the projector. It’s the little things, but this one got me giddy!

Focusing the projector was a snap. The *hardest* part of the overall process was working with the motorized lens, zoom and focus to get this 15:9 projector centered and filled to a 16:9 122” screen. Overall, I was amazed at just how many options you have for screen alignment.

http://gallery.avsforum.com/data/501/medium/73215TR_Front_02.JPG

After spending a couple of hours learning the basics of the new Lumagen and doing some simple calibrations with the AVIA disk I felt like I was in a good state to do some test runs. I’m pushing a 480i signal over HDMI from an Oppo 970 to the Lumagen. I threw in some DVDs that I know would give me a variety of dark scenes, action, CGI, etc. Here are my observations:

The Great
Incredible colors, picture quality outstanding
Detail is amazing: I haven’t yet seen HD-DVD or Blue-Ray, but with this detail, I think I’m satisfied to wait a year or so until my player options are more diverse. The combination of the VP and PJ did amazing things to the quality of the picture.
The SilverStar may not be an “ideal” match. For a high-gain screen, as SmithFarmer mentioned, an ND filter would probably be a good choice.
Finally, some good black levels and shadow detail. Coming from a 3 yr old LCD, it was nice to see some black and shadow detail that I’ve been missing.
The fan noise (or lack thereof) just astounds me. I swear I can hear the fan in my Motorola HD-PVR cable box over the projector – and I have to turn off all sound to do that! And this thing sits right behind me! (See the first pic above).
Self contained unit – no filters, etc. Read many LCD threads and the angst over dust blobs abound.


The Bad

When using the motorized lens to lower the image from its original location, a slight glow, or “leakage” as others have called it, remains where the original image was previously. You can only see this when the room is completely darkened. It’s not a deal killer, but it is distracting to have your ceiling glowing. I suppose the remedy would be to ceiling mount this projector and try to minimize the amount of lens shift you would use.

Ultimately, the Deal-Killer for Me

As an enthusiast who has only viewed HT through LCD, I had no idea that I was susceptible to rainbow artifacts. In fact, I bought the LCD originally because I just knew my wife would be susceptible. When HD first came out, we would be at a tradeshow looking at a screen and she would say “this makes me car sick”. I just knew that if there was ever sensitivity to this or anything related to HT or HD, she would have it. Well, surprise, surprise, I am EXTREMELY sensitive to RBE. I see it constantly, especially dark scenes with bright, contrasted images. For instance, watching light saber fights in SWIII was a painful experience. I brought my wife in to watch the same scenes; she loved the image, and saw no rainbows (oh the irony).

So to sum up: if you aren’t sensitive to RBE, this is one truly outstanding projector. I wish I could keep it. I’m actually quite depressed that I can’t, as for me, this would be a near-perfect projector and setup. So, I’m going to keep the Lumagen, get a new bulb for my HS10 and wait for another year or so for some bright LCD projectors with good black levels. (Heck, maybe even 1080p).


Todd, please permit me to jump in real quick for a swift take. You really need should give the WD2000U a few days. Everyone's eyes adapt to things and from someone coming from LCD, you're just in (very) temporary "brain-culture-shock". The PJ's 4x wheel does a stunning job on controlling RBE and you will stop seeing it within a few hours of regular movie watching.

Also, I must agree with the views of everyone else in the brightness issue. The WD2000 combined with the ultra-high gain of the SilverStar is probably way, way too much. You'll need to apply tweaks like the ones bizplayer suggested and indeed most likely also use an ND2 filter. On my WD2000Us I have now over 700 hours on the bulbs and they are still going super strong. This PJ is simply amazing. You are using a brand new bulb on yours right now and my bet is that you are simply getting too much light on your screen, partially ruining your blacks and other critical parameters of your overall image quality. The thing is, that the WD2000U is so great that, compared to your previous LCD machine, it looks amazing either way, even if not ideally set. But trust me, you can get it much better, just take your time, calibrating it on the spot, and, indeed, controlling the light output. If you think you have good blacks now, cutting down some of the PJ's lumen output along with a careful adjustment set with your external VP and you'll be in total HT heaven.

I think you have a great setup and a killer, killer system. Also, your HT room is stunning by the way. Congratulations!

I'd love to see some screenshots of the PJ in action if you have a chance. BTW, how do you like your Lumagen and how is it its gamma correction capabilities? I keep hearing great things about it.

Anyway, great system you set yourself up. Keep the PJ! You'll be happy you did and never think twice about that decision! Trust me on that one. It will take you little time, specially after you cut some of the light coming out of it onto your SilverStar, for RBE to be an archived word and for you to be in total movie watching bliss. Any tips you may need, please shoot them over to me and I'll be happy to help you in any way I can based on my humble experience with the PJ.

Peter

Thank you guys for your advice. I do want this PJ to work for me. Let's see what a couple of days and an ND filter will do. I live in Dallas, so I should be able to find one pretty quickly and not have to order online and wait for it to be shipped.

Thanks again.

I've ordered from these guys twice and both times they were delivered in 3 days.

http://www.camerafilters.com/pages/nd.aspx

I really think a ND4 filter will be the best choice for your situation.

Also acx_todd what do you think of the Lumagen ? That is the next stage for me. Thanks a lot.

So far so good. Im barely tapping into the features it has. I have only learned how to set the proper output resolution. It looks like I have a great deal to learn as this thing is a tweaker's playground. Luckily it was pretty easy to just set it up and get it going. Its nice to have all my devices (HD cable, DVD, XBOX and soon HTPC) all connected to one device.

I had the refresh rate set incorrectly at first and there were occasional panning shudders, but once I set it to the Mit's native refresh rate, nothing but smooth playback. Also, SD has never looked better. I understand DVDO is better at handling SD, but I just dont watch that much of it, so Lumagen, in my price range, was the way to go. Thanks to Daniel at AVS for a good price.

"The SilverStar's gain is probably the last thing you want to potentially amplify someone's RBE sensitivity. "

Or treat it like a strong vaccine - watch it bright for a week before putting the filter.

Hey Todd acx can you share any comparisons between the hs10 and mits.I have hs10 now and really thinking about the 2000.What are some of the differences?

Great theater by the way.Very nice set up.

Thanks to all who have contributed on this thread. Really have me jacked about this projector.I will be running a screen that will be about 175 inces wide .This sounds like something i can afford and something that will work.

Re PJC's review of the wd-2000: can someone explain to me what one does to 'calibrate the pj for HT' that reduces its output to 550 lumens, while Liebkind gets 1600 lumens when he 'calibrates it for HT'? (Both in low power mode.) What are they doing differently?

Question. PJC says "filter-free design". Is this a sealed light engine? What about smoke, dust?

OK, I just e-mailed Mits tech support requesting they do a firmware update to add a 'letterbox' aspect ratio so we can get proper scaling of non-anamorphic dvd's and 4:3 video. Now I need all other owners to do the same. With enough feedback, maybe they will add this feature.

Thank you guys for your advice. I do want this PJ to work for me. Let's see what a couple of days and an ND filter will do.

I have to admit, RBE is diminishing, but I do notice some eye strain. Im pretty sure that has to do with going from a LCD with 2700 hours on the bulb AND a filter to a DLP light cannon with a 3+ gain silverstar. ND4 filter on the way.

"I have to admit, RBE is diminishing, but I do notice some eye strain. "

I've wondered before if the people who get headaches and/or eyestrain but don't see RBE are right on the threshold of perceiving it, and the brain strain causes headaches.

Let us know how it's going in another few days.

I have to admit, RBE is diminishing, but I do notice some eye strain.
I still see RBE, but they are infrequent (may go a whole film without seeing one unless I had to turn my head to talk or reach for something). Conversely, the eye strain lasted a few weeks, but then my eyes adjusted (and I put up with it because my wife could not put up with LCD, and I prefered the image of DLP). Making the screen less bright will help a great deal. For now you may want to consider using some low level lighting.

I have to admit, RBE is diminishing, but I do notice some eye strain. Im pretty sure that has to do with going from a LCD with 2700 hours on the bulb AND a filter to a DLP light cannon with a 3+ gain SilverStar. ND4 filter on the way.Todd, you're actually doing really well :) It took me longer to go from LCD to DLP and get RBEs out of my head and being eye strain free. I'd say in a week you'll be the happiest camper in town. Also, the ND4 filter is a really good idea specially now that the bulb is still new and it can melt your screen. Down the road you can always go back to an ND2 filter and get the lamp on higher output when the hours mount considerably. The beauty of high brightness PJs is that we can live with them for the long run and keep the same luminance on screen by just letting more light come out as the bulb dims with age. I have a lot of hours on my WD2000U already and bulb still going super strong. Very impressed with this machine's reliability so far. Its on every day for at least 3 hours and every time I turn it on I get a WOW, I just got a new projector feel. Really, really happy with it. I do movie night parties about once a week with friends and some neighbors and also bought some IMAX WMV-HD DVDs that I feed via HTPC and everyone's at awe every time... you can't beat this thing once you have it going right. You simply can't beat it!

Hi! First post here.. ;-)

I currently own a 7200. Would we all say that the WD2000 would qualify as a significant step up IF the following conditions apply: Quiet, Brighter than 7200, minimal RBE? My screen is a Da-Lite 82" retractable 1.0 gain.

best regards,
-Greg

Hi! First post here.. ;-)

I currently own a 7200. Would we all say that the WD2000 would qualify as a significant step up IF the following conditions apply: Quiet, Brighter than 7200, minimal RBE? My screen is a Da-Lite 82" retractable 1.0 gain.

best regards,
-GregGreg, welcome to the board. I have 3 words for you comparing the 7200 to the WD2000U: Night and Day! :)

Hey Todd acx can you share any comparisons between the hs10 and mits.I have hs10 now and really thinking about the 2000.What are some of the differences?

Great theater by the way.Very nice set up.

Thanks!

They are very different projectors. I was growing tired of watching a grey screen when I knew it was supposed to be a night scene. Let me get back with you on a decent comparison once I get my filters in. Right now, I would lean towards a newer LCD model like the HS-60 if I cant get the RBE and eye strain in check.

It is nice being able to watch normal TV with the canned lights on!

Ok,cool Looking Forward To It. That And Jasons Review As Well.

The new sanyo plv 75 maybe another good light cannon for the shootout.

I still see RBE, but they are infrequent (may go a whole film without seeing one unless I had to turn my head to talk or reach for something). Conversely, the eye strain lasted a few weeks, but then my eyes adjusted (and I put up with it because my wife could not put up with LCD, and I prefered the image of DLP). Making the screen less bright will help a great deal. For now you may want to consider using some low level lighting.

Comming from an AE700 to the Mits it took me a few weeks to get used to it. There is definitly some "burn-in" time for your brain.

I would never go back to the Panny. I got sick of having to do the "flicker tweak" to get rid of the vertical banding. The light output sucked if you wanted accurate color. It's still a bargain at the price you find them at but image quality wise the Mits is several orders of magnitude superior. IMHO.

Im not good at taking these, but here goes:

http://gallery.avsforum.com/data/508/Picture_005.jpg

Its with a 3 megapixel camera, not using a tripod, about 5 ft from the screen, standing off center so I dont block the image.

The painters will be here today and tomorrow, so on Saturday I'll hang the curtains and finally be done with the room for a while. So, sometime this weekend I'll post a few pictures of my setup and some screenshots.

I just noticed on PJC today that BenQ has a projector that sounds similar to the Mits wd-2000. It's ths SP820, 3500 Lumens, 2000:1 CR, native 9:16, 1280x768 dlp, etc. I'm not sure if it is actually available yet (PJC says 'Pending'). Anybody know anything more about this unit? MSRP is $4699.

according to benq's site......it will avaliable in december.

The paint is coming along nicely. I chose a deep red for the walls and a grey for the ceiling.

Just got an e-mail from Projector Central and they have looked into it and found the Mitsubishi does have a 2X color wheel. So those who like this projector are those who are not susceptible to rainbows.

IB

Always thought that it likely had a 2x color wheel, as the models it shares a design with do also. No sense why it would have a 4x color wheel when Mitsubishi sells it as a business projector.

Although when I stated that previously, you would've thought it blasphemy.

In fact, my favorite quote on this thread is how "the wd2000 does an exceptionally good job at preventing rainbows"

Maybe all HT projectors should go back to a 2x color wheel to reduce rainbows.

Listen guys, I'm going to tell you something. Compared to the Mitsubishi HD4000U that I spent some time with a few months back and that has a 2X colorwheel and is UNBEARABLE TO WATCH, the WD2000U, whatever its colorwheel speed has no RBE to be seen!!! NOW, GO FIGURE!

Who cares what the specs are??? If the specs were all similar among machines, wouldn't every single projector in the world be exactly a clone of the other and perform precisely the same no matter the brand and type??? Give me a break! Most people on this thread actually have NOT seen the WD2000U and go by whatever its stated on the technical sheets instead of the world-breaker judge which is YOU EITHER LIKE THE IMAGE IT DELIVERS OR YOU DON'T!

As for the majority of reviews I've read on ProjectorCentral, they are ridiculously inaccurate, and most gravely many times, stupidly wrong, missing out the subjective point of the machine they have on hands. Try Art Feierman at projectorreviews.com, the great team at Ultimate AV, or the write-ups coming from homecinemachoice among other people out there doing great reviews. The ProjectorCentral team is not one of them. And, either way, display devices are vehicles of a subjective perception of reality, not calculators invariably delivering the same math equation results as the next one.

Who cares about specs? Try to line up 100 PJs with similar specs and features of different brands to see if they all look the same just because what's on paper, does. Better, go line up 100 TV sets of the same type, brand, specs, model and production batch to see if ANY OF THEM looks even remotely the same!

2x, 4x 300x....who cares about the "spec" of a colorwheel when, its implemented in a design that simply makes the whole thing work beautifully? More watching and less conjecture, please.

If my home theatre equipment had been chosen based on the spec sheets of the machines I thought I should have bought and the opinion of many pros, I would have spent quadruple to have the most pathetic AV setup on the block.

Now I think I'm jumping out of this board. While many talk, let me go enjoy more movies on my WD2000U, that I would not trade for anything else out there right now... unless with a higher speed colorwheel, a better scaler, more inputs, a better lens, a sharper image, a bigger bulb, a smarter remote, a better menu, a quieter fan... ha, ha... what a joke...

I agree with you biz, specs are over-rated.

For example, even though my Toyota Camry is only "rated" at 138 HP, I think that is unaccurate. It drives and performs like it has much, much more power. I dont give a flip what Car and Driver says, I'll race anybody anywhere at anytime!.

Picture time!

http://static.flickr.com/75/206583478_0a16a6b666.jpg

The speakers are Monitor 5 L/Rs and a CC-370 center. In retrospect, I should have gone with three Monitor 5s across the front. The sub is a Velodyne DLS-R4000. I'd like to go bigger, but the house is rattling enough with this "small" sub (by AVS standards!). I need to buy some weatherstripping to quiet down a that window seat you see in the corner of the picture.

Also, I know the screen looks off-center, but that's just the result of a bad camera angle. I measured it and it's centered *almost* perfectly. I'm off by about a 1/4" inch.

Obviously I plan on doing a CH setup. I don't have the lens right now, or the VP, but I'll be adding them sometime in January. I also plan on building some acoustic treatments soon.

http://static.flickr.com/90/206583480_a431b2a3f2.jpg

I should have made the shelf a bit deeper, plugging stuff in takes one person to hold the projector and one to plug it in. Also, does anyone have any ideas on how I could add a lens to this shelf? I was thinking about getting the Prismasonic ceiling mount (if I go that route) and attaching it to the projector, and then letting the lens attach to the mount. Would this cause a balance issue?

[QUOTE=bizplayer]Listen guys, I'm going to tell you something. Compared to the Mitsubishi HD4000U that I spent some time with a few months back and that has a 2X colorwheel and is UNBEARABLE TO WATCH, the WD2000U, whatever its colorwheel speed has no RBE to be seen!!! NOW, GO FIGURE!

-- snip --

Bizplayer. My thoughts exactly. I've already stated that IMHO...the picture of the WD2000 is superb right out of the box, it is very quiet, very low maintenance, and amazingly (compared to the horror stories on the Sammy) my pj has worked every single time I turn it on. I mean, there has not been one time that I have felt dissatisfied. And all I am doing is feeding it a Denon 2910 signal via DVI at 720P (pj set to overscan 100%).

I'm with you. Time to move on. You'll find me spending more time over on the HTPC thread as that is my next purchase (Intel core 2 duo chip machines look like they ROCK!).

Folks. I think the WD2000 is worthy of a look if you are in the market for a $3K projector right now. Too early for me to worry about 1080P especially since Blu Ray and HD DVD can't seem to engineer their equipment right. And as we all know...the video engineers have more to do with quality video than the resolution. So, I'm happy with 720P and a well engineered DVD.

Marcus

.... the Mitsubishi HD4000U ... is UNBEARABLE TO WATCH, the WD2000U, whatever its colorwheel speed has no RBE to be seen!!! NOW, GO FIGURE!...
That sums up the worth of this thread, subjective hype!!!

It sounds like this projector has gone from a holy grail to a dud.

What started out as a razor sharp light canon with a 4x wheel has turned into:

- a 2x wheel
- optical problems
- limited lens shift
- poor deinterlacing/filtering
- possible over rated specs
- questionable reliability

All of which wouldn't be so bad if it didn't cost over 3 times as much as XGA projectors with similar picture quality. (The Sharp XGA even has a 3x wheel.)

I don't like Projector Central's reviews, but they usually OVER rate projectors.
I haven't noticed them being flamed for under rating them.

I wonder if most of the praise of the WD2000U is from people discovering that they prefer a bright business projector to a dim HT one. (Nothing wrong with that.)

Picture time!



Outstanding setup. We have a deep red in our formal living, or I would have gone that direction myself. Very nice.

To those saying this projector is now a dud and not worth buying: I don't care what someone else thinks about this projector one bit. My eyes are happy, end of story.

I wonder if most of the praise of the WD2000U is from people discovering that they prefer a bright business projector to a dim HT one. (Nothing wrong with that.)

Even this is questionable though. PC saying it outputs around 500lumens when calbirated doesn't make it especially bright. Is it 500 or 1600?.

Even this is questionable though. PC saying it outputs around 500lumens when calbirated doesn't make it especially bright. Is it 500 or 1600?.


I personally love light cannons. A slight color imbalance is less important to me than SDE, RBE and scaling and compression artifacts.

The WD2000 is intriguing but so is the HD81, and I'm sure there are a few unannounced gems in the works. I'm waiting for CEDIA.

Also I'm waiting on Jason, he must be on vacation. Still no review.

A note to filter purchasers: I had my projector measured by a local camera shop and it was measured to 86mm and I called Mits and the lens itself is 85mm. I then contacted Tiffen (http://www.tiffen.com/) and talked them into sending me two different samples (86C and 86M) of the "bare" ring (no glass/filter installed), I just had to secure that I would return them with my Credit Card on file. I received them today and the 86C (coarse thread) fit perfectly. This is not to discredit anyone else in stating that a 82mm fit on thier projector, but I know that it did not fit on mine and I was hit with a restocking fee when I returned it and a "86C" is a special order and not returnable to most, except maybe B&H photo.

Hope this helps others that would like to purchase a filter.

Jim

A note to filter purchasers: I had my projector measured by a local camera shop and it was measured to 86mm and I called Mits and the lens itself is 85mm. I then contacted Tiffen (http://www.tiffen.com/) and talked them into sending me two different samples (86C and 86M) of the "bare" ring (no glass/filter installed), I just had to secure that I would return them with my Credit Card on file. I received them today and the 86C (coarse thread) fit perfectly. This is not to discredit anyone else in stating that a 82mm fit on thier projector, but I know that it did not fit on mine and I was hit with a restocking fee when I returned it and a "86C" is a special order and not returnable to most, except maybe B&H photo.

Hope this helps others that would like to purchase a filter.

JimThat's good to know. I'm thinking about adding a filter, sometimes in a really bright scene I feel a bit of eye strain from the brightness. Right now, though, acoustic treatments are at the top of my home theater to-do list, so the filter might have to wait.

That's good to know. I'm thinking about adding a filter, sometimes in a really bright scene I feel a bit of eye strain from the brightness. Right now, though, acoustic treatments are at the top of my home theater to-do list, so the filter might have to wait.

The same reason for me, especially using a HP screen. I am thinking of either a ND4 or (2) ND2 (stacked) and then removing one when the bulb eventually dims.

The same reason for me, especially using a HP screen. I am thinking of either a ND4 or (2) ND2 (stacked) and then removing one when the bulb eventually dims.I have a grey 0.8 gain screen, so I was thinking of a single ND2.

cubedude,

do you have the high contrast from carada? if so, how is the picture when paired with the wd2000?

i'm deciding between the carada high contrast 0.8 and the HCCV 1.1


thanks

I have a grey 0.8 gain screen, so I was thinking of a single ND2.


Seems about right, my gain is about 2.8 (the projector is just above eye level behind the viewing area, that is why I need more then yours.)

ND4 was too much for me. Really took away the punch. I would try an ND2 first.

cubedude,

do you have the high contrast from carada? if so, how is the picture when paired with the wd2000?

i'm deciding between the carada high contrast 0.8 and the HCCV 1.1


thanksNo, it's from Da-lite. It's the High Contrast Da-Mat.

Is it possible that the addition of the yellow segment and the Brilliant Color algorithm described in this article could reduce the perception of rainbows despite the 2x speed as well as allow proper calibration with less lumen loss than described by Projector Central?

Unfortunately the images didn't copy so here's a link to the white paper.

http://focus.ti.com/download/dlpdmd/168_BrilliantColor_white_paper.pdf

Introducing BrilliantColor™ Technology
David C. Hutchison, Texas Instruments, DLP® Products


Abstract
This white paper will discuss Texas Instruments BrilliantColor™ technology. This technology uses innovations in image processing to improve the optical efficiency of DLP® projection systems while expanding the capability of current RGB color wheels. BrilliantColor™ technology may also be combined with new color wheel designs that can expand beyond traditional 3-color systems, enabling the utilization of wide color gamuts on DLP display systems. The combined effect is that the Original Equipment Manufacturer (OEM) now has the opportunity to provide a brighter display that utilizes a customized color gamut that is not available on competing technologies.
Introduction
Historically, most display devices would render a scene using the three primary colors, red, green, and blue. The combination of these three colors allows one to display any color that is within the triangular region bounded by those three colors (reference Figure 1). This limits available colors that can be displayed, making it difficult to display brilliant yellows and cyans that are commonly found in natural scenes.


Figure 1 -- Color Gamut of a Typical Television or Projector


The color gamuts typically found on all current consumer display systems trade off having a wide color gamut with brightness. One can increase the size of the color gamut by increasing the saturation of the primaries. Saturated primaries move the red, green, and blue points of the triangle closer to the edge of the visible color spectrum and cover a greater area of the visible color spectrum. Because the saturated primaries typically are not as bright, the use of saturated primaries reduces the overall brightness of white tones and saturated colors. By adding yellow, cyan, and magenta colors to the rendering of the image, one can maintain bright white points while providing deeper red, green, and blue color points. The three color gamut has been used quite successfully for the Cathode Ray Tube (CRT) color displays. The first DLP® display systems also utilized a similar approach whereas the image is split into its red, green, and blue components for display on the digital micro-mirror device (DMD).
Factors Impacting Display Brightness
There are several factors that affect the end brightness of the display in lamp based display systems. A typical DLP® Display optical path is shown in Figure 2. Items such as lumens collected out of the lamp, optical system efficiency, color wheel efficiency, and screen efficiency impact the brightness of the display. The screen brightness is simply the efficiency of the optical system multiplied by the collected lumens and the screen gain. Improving any of the efficiencies in the optical path will result in an improvement of the screen brightness.



Integrator Rod Relay Lenses Lamp TIR Prism DMD Projection Lens Color Wheel Screen

Improving Illumination Efficiency
Lamp based displays render an image by splitting the white spectrum of the lamp into the three primary colors, red, green, and blue. In order to achieve the standard color gamut required for TVs and projectors, the generation of the red, green, and blue light components does not utilize the entire energy spectrum available from the lamp. This light loss is a result of the fact that parts of the lamp energy are not contained within the red, green, and blue filters used to render the image (reference Figure 3).

BrilliantColor technology resolves this problem through the utilization of additional color filters. In Figure 3, there is a significant amount of lamp energy that is not utilized at the 580nm wavelength. This energy can be recaptured through the use of a yellow filter. Also, a cyan filter will improve the efficiency in the 500nm region. Designing a projection system that uses a 5-color illumination system can improve the end brightness by as much as 50%. Table 1 shows the improvement that can be gained in a DLP® display system using the new .45 720p DMD and a 5-color wheel.


Improved Color Gamut
In addition to improved system illumination efficiency, BrilliantColor™ technology also allows for a much broader color gamut. The color gamut of a red, green, blue display is defined as the area of colors bounded by the triangle whose points are defined by the colorimetric settings of the red, blue, and green filters. Any color that can be displayed on the system is some combination of the red, green, and blue colors. Though this color space is suitable for many applications, it does not allow for the creation of vivid colors such as yellow and cyan. The reason for this is that the vivid yellow (or cyan) that we frequently see in nature is outside of the area bounded by the triangle. Adding additional color to the rendering engine allows us to expand the triangle into a wider polygon resulting in a greater selection of colors. Figure 4 shows the triangle used by the Rec. 709 color standard used by many televisions today.


By using a multi-primary color wheel and BrilliantColor™ technology, we are able to expand the color gamut to that defined by the outer polygon (dotted line).
This new color gamut represents colors in nature better than the three color gamut typically used in today’s display systems. The new gamut affords better balanced chrominance and luminance for life-like colors giving the viewer the ultimate visual experience.

Figure 4 – BrilliantColor™ Color Gamut

Improved Color Gamut using just RGB Color Wheels
Color processing improvements may also be realized when BrilliantColor™ technology is applied to traditional red, green, blue (RGB) color wheels. All color wheels have a transition region between the different color filters. During the period of time that this region illuminates the DMD, the color processor is uncertain what color of light is actually on the DMD. For example, when the red/green spoke illuminates the DMD, the DMD sees a combination of red and green light.
Color processing can take advantage of this situation. Combining red with green yields yellow light. Similarly, combining red with blue yields magenta while combining blue with green yields cyan (reference Figure 5). In this case, the yellow, magenta, and cyan color points lie within the gamut triangle defined by the red, green, and blue filter color points (since this color is created by combining two colors within the gamut). This is slightly different from a multi-primary color wheel system which adds new color points outside of the triangle.

Figure 5 -- RGB Color Wheel and Spokes

BrilliantColor™ technology can be configured to process the spoke regions as a secondary color (e.g. the green/red spoke would be processed as yellow). The color processor is able to use the yellow, cyan, and magenta light to improve the brightness of the display which allows the use of more saturated primaries (reference Figure 6).

Figure 6 - Brighter Color Gamut from RGB Color Wheel

4
Additional Benefits of BrilliantColor™ Technology
In addition to gaining improved efficiencies in the illumination optics and providing a wider color gamut, BrilliantColor™ technology offers additional improvements to the rendering of images on DLP® displays.
The BrilliantColor™ algorithms are implemented using floating point arithmetic. Unlike traditional color algorithms which are implemented using a fixed number of bits, the BrilliantColor™ algorithms use a floating point algorithm which results in greater computational accuracy. This results in less noise and more accurate colors at the display. Combining the improved computational accuracy with the extended color gamut, DLP® projection systems utilizing BrilliantColor™ technology are capable of generating over 200 trillion color shades.
Furthermore, BrilliantColor™ technology is extremely flexible, allowing the OEM to completely customize the display color to their specification allowing for differentiation in the market place.
Conclusions
BrilliantColor™ technology was designed to improve the optical efficiency of DLP® display engines. For UHP lamps, this technology is able to achieve up to 50% improvement in brightness over traditional three color solutions. The utilization of up to six colors enables the use of a wider color gamut. The wider color gamut is better suited to accurately display colors found in nature than three color solutions, giving the viewer a truly life-like image.
DLP is a registered trademark and BrilliantColor is a trademark of Texas Instruments.

Is it possible that the addition of the yellow segment and the Brilliant Color algorithm described in this article could reduce the perception of rainbows despite the 2x speed as well as allow proper calibration with less lumen loss than described by Projector Central?

AFAIK the WD2K is a 4x wheel. But I could be wrong.

I found projector centrals review to be odd. I've seen none of the judder or poor deinterlcaing and scaling they talk about. Not top notch, but not that bad.

Additionally their conclusion of "For these reasons, the WD2000U is not an attractive solution for dedicated home theater" is total bunk IMHO. Hook this thing to a good processor or HTPC and it will rock.

As to "brilliant color" AFAIk I have it turned off. In theater mode it does nothing. In the other modes the white and yellow segments are enabled so you get retina searing whties, but that's not an priority in my case.

Here's some screen shots from my Mits:

(hmm... I guess I'm not allowed to post actual links to the image gallery since I'm under 5 posts total... perhaps the forum admin will paste them in here, or another user will post links in a follow on post... for now I guess if you want to see them you'll have to go to the gallery and search for WD2000U or use the text below, replacing the underscores with periods)

gallery_avsforum_com/showphoto_php/photo/21914/cat/508
gallery_avsforum_com/showphoto_php/photo/21915/cat/508
gallery_avsforum_com/showphoto_php/photo/21916/cat/508
gallery_avsforum_com/showphoto_php/photo/21917/cat/508
gallery_avsforum_com/showphoto_php/photo/21918/cat/508

And the specifics:



Projector: Mitsubishi WD2000U, ceiling mounted
DVD Player: Oppo OPDV971H outputing 720p to the Mits via DVI
Screen: Painted wall (Behr Silver Screen paint with a WOP:Poly:SS top coat)
Projector throw: 21 feet
Projected image size(inches):
16x9 is 136 wide x 76 tall x 156 diagonal
2.35 is 136 wide x 58 tall x 148 diagonal
Calibration: Only brightness and contrast via Avia
Mits DVI Settings:
Overscan 100%
Theater Mode
Low Lamp
Brightness=2
Contrast=5
Screen Shots:
Scenes are from Braveheart and Toy Story 2
They're taken live, so could have some motion blur
Camera: Canon 20D on a tripod, 1/15 sec exp., f4.0
Taken 10-15 feet back of the screen where I sit
No image manipulation other than sizing/cropping

I've been thrilled with the projector. I'm moving up from an Infocus X1 which was doing double duty - sometimes being mounted on my ceiling, sometimes being carted around to presentations. The Mits is now dedicated to the ceiling in my basement :-)

2.35 is 136 wide x 58 tall x 148 diagonal

Nice screen shots...How are you doing the 2.35:1 (Letterboxed content or anamorphic lens, etc.)?

Any rainbows?

Harry

...How are you doing the 2.35:1 (Letterboxed content or anamorphic lens, etc.)?

Nothing special - simply displayed letterboxed as it comes out of the projector.

As an aside, while I can see the unused pixel area, it's pretty dim and something we don't really notice while watching a movie. The side walls are about a foot from either side of the projected image and currently painted white, so I do get a little reflected light spilling back onto the image. I've got plans to put curtains on the side walls near the screen and wrap them around the corner up to the image. I don't think I'll do any top or bottom masking.

Any rainbows?

No, though I don't think I've seen them on any other projectors. No screen door visible at 12 feet where we sit, either.

I do notice a lack of sharpness on scenes that are "long shots" (where your eye is trying to focus on people that are 6 inches tall on that 11 foot wide screen) , but I think that's unrelated to the projector and simply a limit on how much resolution there is in a regular DVD projected 11 feet wide. Actually. it's pretty amazing how good regular DVDs look this big. We watched Deadwood the other night (DirectTV) at 720P and... while I wasn't looking for it... I didn't notice it being any sharper than the DVD's we've been watching.

I did notice an improvement when I switched to the Oppo 971 vs. a couple of non-faroudja players I tried. I've got an HTPC that I don't have hooked up yet, but I'm curious to see how it compares. Regardless, I'm planning on the 971 as the "main" source as I like the reliability/usability of the dedicated player vs. an HTPC.

Wow, nice job aunder.

Aunder...

Awesome. My wife and I watched "The Libertine" tonight. Again...movie after movie is truly breathtaking with the Mits WD2000U. My settings are similar to yours. 119" diag screen. PJ is ceiling mounted. Add a fabulous sound system...and this is the way it is supposed to be for home theater.

I'm currently researching an HTPC worthy of this system. I don't quite have everything picked out yet. Intel e57 core2duo CPU...2 hard drives RAID0...probably an Nvidea card w/DVI out...asus motherboard. Case still undecided but I'm getting close.

My DVD player is a Denon 2910. I love it and so does the Mits. So...I'm totally undecided about a DVD for the HTPC. The image is so good I just don't see how I can do better with the HTPC. My primary reason for the HTPC is HighDef from the internet and possibly gaming. But, likely Blu-Ray down the road.

I've heard a scaler and a professional calibration would help. But, gee whiz...I just can't see a need when the picture is so awesome right now. My wife and I don't see Rainbows or any other picture problems. So, we're like you...great right out of the box.

Have fun! It's nice to finally make a decision and sit back and enjoy the show! Also nice to hear another positive voice after the pj was so seriously trashed in this thread by "expert opinion."

Marcus

Desert Pilot: What screen do you have? (And congrats on your set-up!)

Bizplayer. My thoughts exactly. I've already stated that IMHO...the picture of the WD2000 is superb right out of the box, it is very quiet, very low maintenance, and amazingly (compared to the horror stories on the Sammy) my pj has worked every single time I turn it on. I mean, there has not been one time that I have felt dissatisfied. And all I am doing is feeding it a Denon 2910 signal via DVI at 720P (pj set to overscan 100%).

I'm with you. Time to move on. You'll find me spending more time over on the HTPC thread as that is my next purchase (Intel core 2 duo chip machines look like they ROCK!).

Folks. I think the WD2000 is worthy of a look if you are in the market for a $3K projector right now. Too early for me to worry about 1080P especially since Blu Ray and HD DVD can't seem to engineer their equipment right. And as we all know...the video engineers have more to do with quality video than the resolution. So, I'm happy with 720P and a well engineered DVD.

MarcusTo those saying this projector is now a dud and not worth buying: I don't care what someone else thinks about this projector one bit. My eyes are happy, end of story.
Gentlemen, RIGHT ON! Let's move on and just enjoy this awesome machine, and simply let some folks here speculate in the dark, that this PJ is a dud or whatever else they state. Bottom line, we have this machine and we KNOW just how good it REALLY is. Time to go watch movies and let everyone else keep talking about a projector they have never seen and have either way self-prophesized they will never like or ever buy, NO MATTER WHAT!

Mitsubishi: Thank you for the best single-chip 720p PJ on the market! :)

Desert Pilot: What screen do you have? (And congrats on your set-up!)

Bill. I purchased the Da-Lite High Contrast Matte White. Especially for the price...it is a great screen to handle the brightness of the projector. My home theater is in my livingroom which is all white and light cannot be fully controlled. The screen works very well with this pj and my situation.

Marcus

Sorry for the question but has anyone seen or compared a Panny 700 v/s the Mitsu? I am selling my Panny 700 this weekend and was thinking about getting the Mitsu wd2000u. Will I see a difference? (Accept for MUCH BRIGHTER) Would it be sharper, deeper blacks, etc.
Thanks.........

Sorry for the question but has anyone seen or compared a Panny 700 v/s the Mitsu? I am selling my Panny 700 this weekend and was thinking about getting the Mitsu wd2000u. Will I see a difference? (Accept for MUCH BRIGHTER) Would it be sharper, deeper blacks, etc.
Thanks.........

It will be brighter, sharper, and full of rainbows if you are susceptible to them. I would try to demo a 2 speed color wheel before you purchase.

It will be brighter, sharper, and full of rainbows if you are susceptible to them. I would try to demo a 2 speed color wheel before you purchase.That is, AFAICT, the only downside to this projector. As I've said before, I only barely see them, and only with some scene lighting conditions, so it doesn't bother me, but I totally understand why some would avoid this pj because of that.

What happend to Jason's review of this?

Thanx Petrucci. I'll try to go look this weekend. I have seen business pj's and saw rainbows but I don't know if it will bother me watching a movie. I have an 18' throw with a 110" screen.

What happend to Jason's review of this?

Maybe he has French ancestry and decided to take August off.

for those interested in this pj, optoma just released their EP1690 model.
2500 lumens, and under $2K.
they may be pretty similar otherwise, worth checking out.

Something else you might consider is the Sharp XV-Z3000 . It wont require an external scaler, the contrast and black level is better, and you still get around 900-1000 lumen output. 4X color wheel and about a $1000 less to boot.

Projector Central just did a review on the Sharp Z3000 and they seem very impressed with it. They state the Sharp has a 5X color wheel.

yep, I think your right it is a 5X speed wheel

Projector Central just did a review on the Sharp Z3000 and they seem very impressed with it.

S&V wasn't impressed, also pointing out the somewhat soft image. In an 8-way shootout, the Sharp was one of the projectors they didn't recommend.

http://www.soundandvisionmag.com/article.asp?section_id=3&article_id=1408&page_number=9

They also recommended the Samsung 710 for best picture.

They also recommended the Samsung 710 for best picture.
If they could just get their reliability problems under control, they would have a winner. Jason highly praised this projector, as have a number of other individuals, but it is hard to recommend them until one is sure they are reliable.

They also recommended the Samsung 710 for best picture

I'm pretty sure their recommendations are based strictly on PQ, and not on reliability. Other reviewers have praised the 710 as well.

I recently bought an HDMI to DVI cable from blue jeans and replaced my DVI cable from PJ to HTPC. Before I hookup the DVI cable directly from HTPC to PJ but now I hook it up from HTPC ->YAMAHA 2600 -> WD2000U . The picture difference was noticeably improved and sharpness was GREATLY improved, so I was wondering if the Yamaha has some video processing on the HDMI port..I hardly notice a difference from 720P to 1080i...The reason I replace the cable is because I cannot view the on sreen menu from the yamaha so its a PITA. BTW I'm still using a temporary setup since my HT is still on the framing stage...pix soon..

Has anyone compared the WD2000U to the HD4000U? I'm sorry if I missed it. They seem very similar by specs. In fact, I'm a little confused why Mits would make two projectors that seem so similar.

Interestingly, I've talked to two Mitsubishi HT dealers in town. Neither carry the WD2000U. One hadn't even heard of it. The other told me he couldn't get it for demo and, if I wanted it, I'd have to buy it sight unseen. Not sure why this is.

Anyone in Kansas City have one who wants to show it off? I'll bring the beer. :)

Projectorreviews really likes the new Panasonic PT-DW5000U which is a heck of a light cannon for those with true big screens. Since street prices are about half of retail, this does provide an affordable solution....Or if you need big lumens to fight ambient light this will do the trick!

...the WD2000U, whatever its colorwheel speed has no RBE to be seen!!! NOW, GO FIGURE!...

As an owner of said projector I would disagree, it does have "flashes" of rainbow on occasion but it is not persistant.

Bottom line: yes, ocassionally I see them but the image quality and the real-world usability of the unit (you don't need to watch it in a cave) more than make up for it.

Now if Mits came out with a 5x color wheel version I'd probably upgrade. Myabe.

As an owner of said projector I would disagree, it does have "flashes" of rainbow on occasion but it is not persistant.

Bottom line: yes, ocassionally I see them but the image quality and the real-world usability of the unit (you don't need to watch it in a cave) more than make up for it.

Now if Mits came out with a 5x color wheel version I'd probably upgrade. Myabe.I agree. Bizplayer is probably not that sensitive to RBE. If you know you're sensitive, I probably wouldn't recommend this pj.

However, my eyes have adjusted to the point where I never see rainbows. I was showing off my theater to a friend today (I love the look on their faces when they see that 2.35:1 screen :D) and as much as I tried, I couldn't see any RBE. As someone else posted earlier, the human brain is an amazing thing.

I agree. Bizplayer is probably not that sensitive to RBE. If you know you're sensitive, I probably wouldn't recommend this pj.

However, my eyes have adjusted to the point where I never see rainbows. I was showing off my theater to a friend today (I love the look on their faces when they see that 2.35:1 screen :D) and as much as I tried, I couldn't see any RBE. As someone else posted earlier, the human brain is an amazing thing.


I guess we're lucky in our home. We've watched darn near 100 dvd's over the past couple of months and neither me nor my wife have seen any rainbows or any other picture issues. I wasn't anticipating any problems but I made sure I could return the pj if I didn't like it. That's about the only way to truly test these things. I suppose I could have a disclaimer for guests warning them about rainbows in our living room (hahaha).

Marcus

If anyone has some insight between these two projectors, I'd appreciate it. I notice on the PDF downloads that Mitsubishi says the HD4000U is "True-HD WXGA" and also says "True-HD ready" but does not have this claim on the WD2000U. Yet they have the same DC2 chip with DDP3020. So what does this mean?

Also, the HD4000U has HDMI input while the WD2000U has DVI-D (with HDCP). I'm not sure exactly what all that means, but will I be sorry that I don't have the HDMI? My goal is to have a bright 120" screen (thinking Firehawk G2) in ambient (relatively dimmed but not dark) light setting.

Any help you guys can give would be much appreciated. I think I'm about to order one of these 2 projectors (can't decide which) and the Firehawk 120" screen and just give them a test drive. Any advice on where to order (that will let me return if the test drive doesn't go well) would also be appreciated.

i think the wd2000 will suit you well. i believe the only difference the hd4000 and the wd2000 is the latter is brighter. i am still waiting on my screen (should be here monday!), but i projected the image on to a dark dark blue wall and let me tell you, the picture still looked awesome!

I would take a look at the HD1000U it has a 7 seg color wheel at 4X speed. It will be aimed more for HT use. Not quite as bright but after all 3 are calibrated for HT it most likely will be the brightest one.

Dale

Hey folks,

I picked up 24 season 4 today. Watched the first two discs. WOW...the mastering quality is wayyyyyyyyy better than season 1. I compared the two and my mits wd2000U shows an awesome picture with season 4 discs. What I've discovered over the past couple of months is that DVD mastering quality is soooooo important to pj picture quality. Just incredible.

I'm a real SACD fan and there are several disc manufacturers who "get it right" (like Telarc). I wish there were a forum to help identify DVD mastering studios who actually care about the quality of their DVD mastering. When judging a pj...DVD mastering seems to be critically important.

Marcus

Hey folks,

I picked up 24 season 4 today. Watched the first two discs. WOW...the mastering quality is wayyyyyyyyy better than season 1. I compared the two and my mits wd2000U shows an awesome picture with season 4 discs. What I've discovered over the past couple of months is that DVD mastering quality is soooooo important to pj picture quality. Just incredible.

I'm a real SACD fan and there are several disc manufacturers who "get it right" (like Telarc). I wish there were a forum to help identify DVD mastering studios who actually care about the quality of their DVD mastering. When judging a pj...DVD mastering seems to be critically important.

MarcusI agree. Unfortunately (for me), I'm enjoy smaller, independent films that often don't have the best mastering quality (there are exceptions, though).

But man, when you pop in a disc that was well done, its great!

Has anyone seen the WD2000U and HC3000U or HD4000U side by side?

Has anyone seen the WD2000U and HC3000U or HD4000U side by side?If you take the time to actually ready this thread, you'll be surprised with what you can find:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=7618051&&#post7618051

If you take the time to actually ready this thread, you'll be surprised with what you can find:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=7618051&&#post7618051

And if you could have only provided the link for Milton without sarcasm maybe you would have a "thank you" .

Thanks bizplayer. I'm not sure I could have found that gem in this ~1000 post haystack. I'm excited about this pj and about to pull the trigger (working up the guts).

Parenthetically, I'm a big fan of AVS and feel fortunate that a friend recommended it to me. I was a lurker long before I ever posted. I told him it's a little intimidating because I just don't have the knowledge base to even ask good questions and he told me something interesting. The people with a couple hundred posts can sometimes be abrupt (he may have used another word here) but the people with a couple thousand posts are usually very nice and helpful. It's all good and I appreciate everyone's help.

One more question (that may be answered somewhere deep in the bowels of this thread). :)

Has the WD2000U received any bad reviews? There's been plenty of criticism, sure, but any from people who have actually viewed it? Common advice on AVS is to not judge a pj by its specs, but it seems like this pj has been knocked by a lot of people who are only doing so off specs.

I take everyone's reviews seriously and am trying to keep an open mind. Of course, if I refused to buy any projector that has been criticized (even legitimately) then I doubt there would be a single pj left.

One more question (that may be answered somewhere deep in the bowels of this thread). :)

Has the WD2000U received any bad reviews? There's been plenty of criticism, sure, but any from people who have actually viewed it? Common advice on AVS is to not judge a pj by its specs, but it seems like this pj has been knocked by a lot of people who are only doing so off specs.

I take everyone's reviews seriously and am trying to keep an open mind. Of course, if I refused to buy any projector that has been criticized (even legitimately) then I doubt there would be a single pj left.

The only negative review I've seen is the one by projectorcentral.com

Anyone else having problems getting this POS to accept a widescreen resolution from a computer? It's brand new - it outputs 15x9 and won't fill up my 16x9 screen. Also, the txt isn't as sharp as it should be. Any help would be greatly appreaciated.

Thanks,
-Todd

Try HDMI or DVI instead of VGA.