You know what...I'm an idiot. I have RCAs in from the satellite and then digital out from the Polaroid to the receiver. But, nonetheless I have the issue with dropouts, but it's with the coaxial digital out and not the RCAs...sorry!

My recording has just hit the 3:43 mark and did not stop at 3 hours. I set it for 4 hours and I'll let it go until then. I set the recording to 4 hours using one touch recording - OTR. I could not remember having problems in the past but could not remember going past 3 hours in the SP mode. 3 + hours in the SP mode appears to work fine on the unit I have.

As an aside there is no button on the remote that changes record mode!! You have to go in to setup???? If true ridiculous. But I still like this polaroid unit solely for its great video record quality. It burns one hell of a great DVD at even 2 hours and 30 minutes which is the holy grail time for DVDRs.

To change the record modes quickly press the add/clear button on the remote. This will toggle through the settings. Page 21 of the manual.

Yes you can change it in the setup screens but this will also change the recording mode as a default. For example if you change it to LP in the setup screen then every time you turn the unit on it will be in the LP recording mode.

Also a tip - in setup under the Timeshift screens you have the option to set the default input line when you power the unit on.

For example you can set it to s-video. I set it to s-video because if my STB is set to 1080i it will not wig out the television screen. If I had the default set to component this would happen. I mentioned before that I have the Poloroid hooked up to my STB via composite, s-video, and component.

But here's the tip. You can also set it to have Timeshift on/off. I set mine to s-video/off. This means that when the Polaroid powers on it will default to the s-video input but also the Timeshift feature is off. This means that the hard drive will not be constantly thrashing because it is not recording the Timeshift buffer by default. This reduces wear on the hard drive and reduces heat build up. If I want to Timeshift I press the Timeshift button on the remote to enable the feature.

I was recording a 3 hour and 21 minute movie tonight to the HDD at SP record mode and the unit stopped at 2 hours and 59 minutes(one title) and then continued to record the rest(22 minutes) on a separate title on the HDD. I intended to divide the program into two parts for burning to two discs. Whats up with that? Can you set this unit to record at any speed for more than 3 hours? And what are the remote commands to set if so? This is extremely important in an HDD unit for it to be able to record at least 4-6 hours at a certain speed on the HDD on one title. Does this unit have merge capability?

The way the manual says to do it (page 20) is turn time shift off, press the record to button to record to the HDD, press record (and it will keep recording until the HDD is full), and press stop to stop recording.

My guess is you missed step one, which is turn off time shift and go to manual recording. I have recorded using scheduled recording and gone well over 8 hours (set it up to end 10 am not 10 pm) on SP so I doubt if there is a problem with one touch recording if you are in manual. Will run a test thought to see if there is a problem.

Edit- a day later- I did run a test using the above procedure. I had no problem recording 6 hours in one segment. Pressed record and let it run until I returned home. It did not split at all. I have seen the split when I was probably in time shift and pressed the record button.

I am running another test, this time in manual and a 3 hour 30 min SP recording to see if there is a problem when you pre-set the time. Also what happens if you are in time shift and hit record (which is where I got the split, but that was long ago and not completely sure).

To cycle between time shift and manual, press the time shift button. To split a large file into two (or more) separate files, use the split feature in the HDD menu. Highlight the program you want to split, then press the right button, go down to split and enter. I use the chapter feature to get to the point I want to split and then the right/left buttons to move to where I want the split, then hit enter where you want the split. You can narrow the point down by pausing and then repeatedly hitting the pause button until you are at the exact point you want to split.

I just got the Polaroid for my Grandparents, but ended up returning it for the Phillips from Wally world. While the picture quality and everything is excellent, the remote turned out to be almost completely useless. We had to be a couple feet from the player and aligned perfectly to get it to do anything. The button layout was also very poor with many small buttons that all look alike and spaced close together. Finally, there were no obvious indications it was performing many operations, like recording or burning.

Knowing the Phillips is almost the same machine we returned the Polaroid and spent the extra money for it, which has a vastly superior remote. It also has the addition of VCR+, which makes timing things a little easier.

Knowing the Phillips is almost the same machine we returned the Polaroid and spent the extra money for it, which has a vastly superior remote. It also has the addition of VCR+, which makes timing things a little easier.
I have a Pioneer 640 with VCR+ and I found it pretty much "useless."

First, I have to go online to find the codes (tvguide.com) 'cause my paper doesn't publish them and the TV Guide mag. stopped showing them.

Second, I have to set a "TVG Channel" that maintains correlation between actual tuner channel and the VCR+ channel??? If I don't have the "proper relationship," I record the wrong channel at the right day and time.

Third and worst of all, for daily or weekly show, THE VCR+ CODE CHANGES FOR EACH OCCURRENCE. Apparently, it's a randomly generated code for each day, time and channel. So, for a daily show, you'd have to check a week's worth of codes and enter them individually as timer rec (VCR+) programs! AND I can only find VCR+ codes for a limited time-span at my only source, tvguide.com.

Let me know if your VCR+ is any different?

Let me know if your VCR+ is any different?

Your right it doesn't help all that much (have to tell it which channel), but it does get the day and times right which are time consuming to enter.

I have had numerous people I know that had or have this unit (Polaroid) and they cannot even get it to show a component signal from their STB to the Polaroid and then to their TV much less recording a signal.

HoustonGuy,

If I understand your post, the problem these people are having is most likely do to the wrong Component Video signal format being sent to the Polaroid DRM-2001G. The 2001G will only recognize and properly decode a 480i signal on its Component Video (YUV) Input.

I have a DTV HR10-250 connected to my 2001G via Component Video Input (YUV) and then on to my TV via Component Video Output.

When the HR10-250 is set to 480i format, the 2001G will recognize and properly decode it via the Component Video (YUV) Input.

However, if the HR10-250 is instead set to either 720p or 1080i, the 2001G will indicate that there is no signal when YUV is selected, but I still get 2-channel audio.

On the other hand, when the HR10-250 is configured for 480p, the 2001G will initially indicate that there is no signal when YUV is selected, but after a few seconds it will attempt to decode the signal, which will appear as 2 very distorted tall skinny side-by-side pictures.

In all cases, the 2001G Composite and S-Video inputs will still work as Standard Definition signals when selected, which can be somewhat misleading when trouble shooting, and can lead to the incorrect conclusion that the problem is with the 2001G’s YUV inputs instead of an incompatible signal format.

I apologize for posting on an issue that has already been explained, but I thought I was on the last page of this thread, and I did not realize that I was not the 1st reply until after I submitted it.

I just got the Polaroid for my Grandparents, but ended up returning it for the Phillips from Wally world. While the picture quality and everything is excellent, the remote turned out to be almost completely useless. We had to be a couple feet from the player and aligned perfectly to get it to do anything. The button layout was also very poor with many small buttons that all look alike and spaced close together. Finally, there were no obvious indications it was performing many operations, like recording or burning.

Knowing the Phillips is almost the same machine we returned the Polaroid and spent the extra money for it, which has a vastly superior remote. It also has the addition of VCR+, which makes timing things a little easier.

Yes the remote is really really bad. Actually there are two versions of the remote. A really really bad one and the other one being just a bad one. After buying two Polaroids I was able to find one with just the "bad" remote. With the one I have I can do pretty much everything from 15 feet away. I still have to aim but it works pretty good.

Earlier in this thread it was reported that it was possible to replace the LED in the remote (Radio Shack LED replacement). This improved performance tremendously. I have not done this but more than one poster said it works.

I apologize for posting on an issue that has already been explained, but I thought I was on the last page of this thread, and I did not realize that I was not the 1st reply until after I submitted it.

Actually your previous post helps very much - thanks. Your experience appears to be the correct result of a typical users setup.

I picked up this link concerning the LSI chipset on another board (videohelp - thanks nlec). I have seen it before so I thought I would post it here:

http://www.lsilogic.com/products/product_showcase/index.html

To change the record modes quickly press the add/clear button on the remote. This will toggle through the settings. Page 21 of the manual.

Yes you can change it in the setup screens but this will also change the recording mode as a default. For example if you change it to LP in the setup screen then every time you turn the unit on it will be in the LP recording mode.

Also a tip - in setup under the Timeshift screens you have the option to set the default input line when you power the unit on.

For example you can set it to s-video. I set it to s-video because if my STB is set to 1080i it will not wig out the television screen. If I had the default set to component this would happen. I mentioned before that I have the Poloroid hooked up to my STB via composite, s-video, and component.

But here's the tip. You can also set it to have Timeshift on/off. I set mine to s-video/off. This means that when the Polaroid powers on it will default to the s-video input but also the Timeshift feature is off. This means that the hard drive will not be constantly thrashing because it is not recording the Timeshift buffer by default. This reduces wear on the hard drive and reduces heat build up. If I want to Timeshift I press the Timeshift button on the remote to enable the feature.
Great info. To turn time shift off- What are remote menu steps?

I believe it's in one of the setup menus to turn off the timeshift. I did it too to keep the drive from working needlessly and heating up the unit. And yes you can just hit the timeshift button on the remote if you want to use it for a favorite show once and a while.

I just finalized a recorded DVD-R Verbatim 16X on this unit and it was very fast. Fast as the Pio 531 if not faster( in fact Pio balks at 16x sometimes). This Polaroid sailed thru it. Took a while to figure out the interface menu. If you are a Pio/Panny DVDR owner since 2003, as I am, this Philips menu is like entering a new world. Plodding through.

I just finished my testing on DV input for this Polaroid model compared to the Panny E-500(2004) which should be the same for other Panny 2004 models with DV input. I used same camera input tape,same quality and speed calibrations.The Polaroid was very good but not as excellent as the Panny. Panny is really known for its VHS and DV input quality filters and reproduction to DVD, so this does not surprise me. On the other hand those same 2004 Pannys cannot record a video DVD from a cable or SAT source as well as this Polaroid in my testings at HQ,SP or LP. Any speed beyond that is irrelevent.

Also - As to another thing about this Polaroid- It plays on my display very good DISH SAT video through its s-video out to my Sony CRT display- I have Polaroid directly out s-video to the Sony display ,no RF or other cables. S video in from SAT box. Sorry if I sounded like Borat on this post.

I just finalized a recorded DVD-R Verbatim 16X on this unit and it was very fast. Fast as the Pio 531 if not faster( in fact Pio balks at 16x sometimes). This Polaroid sailed thru it. Took a while to figure out the interface menu. If you are a Pio/Panny DVDR owner since 2003, as I am, this Philips menu is like entering a new world. Plodding through.

When I swapped out the DVD burner with the NEC I mentioned earlier in this thread I believe I was able to finalize a disc in 11 minutes or something like that. Now that was fast.

edit - Sorry it wasn't an NEC it was a Sony DW-Q30A. I think I've mentioned it as an NEC in a previous post in error. I was also able to swap the DVD drive out with a BTC D33040.

I just finished my testing on DV input for this Polaroid model compared to the Panny E-500(2004) which should be the same for other Panny 2004 models with DV input. I used same camera input tape,same quality and speed calibrations.The Polaroid was very good but not as excellent as the Panny. Panny is really known for its VHS and DV input quality filters and reproduction to DVD, so this does not surprise me. On the other hand those same 2004 Pannys cannot record a video DVD from a cable or SAT source as well as this Polaroid in my testings at HQ,SP or LP. Any speed beyond that is irrelevent.

Thanks for the info. The fact that it even works is a huge plus. Sometimes with these more reasonable (cheaper) recorders you keep your fingers crossed :) .

Mentioning the Sony DVD drive swap out got me thinking again about how I had it set up. I used an external power source to power the drive i.e. I had the DVD drive plugged directly into the wall. There are power cables sold that allow this.

This could also be done with the hard drive - plug it directly into the wall.

So far I like the Polaroid because it allows for plug and play upgrades. I've swapped out the hard drive already and I have two DVD drive replacements on the shelf ready in case I burn out the original DVD drive.

Both the hard drive and the DVD drive have standard IDE connections.

So my only concern right now is the power supply. Some recorders have a history of bad power supplies. I believe the Cyberhome 1600 was notorious for bad power supplies for example. If I understand correctly the power supply would get flakey and would essentially affect the lens power intensity of the DVD drive and eventually the drive would no longer be able to read discs.

So where am I going with this. Well when the day comes and I want to really "Franken" the Polaroid it will be possible to swap out the DVD drive and the hard drive and power them independent of the Polaroid - thus bypassing the Polaroid power supply and perhaps reducing some of the stress on it.

Just a thought.

Actually there are two versions of the remote. A really really bad one and the other one being just a bad one. After buying two Polaroids I was able to find one with just the "bad" remote. With the one I have I can do pretty much everything from 15 feet away. I still have to aim but it works pretty good.


Interesting... I must have one of the Good/Bad ones... I still have to point accurately, but I can get it to work from quite far.

Ron

I mentioned that the remote I have for the Polaroid is not too bad. One of the good ones. But you might want to try the Sony VL-600 as a replacement. It is a learning universal remote and I think is was $25 at Wally's. It's cheap and it is good. I have a pretty complex setup and the VL-600 handles everything very well. And the improvement with the Polaroid is exceptional.

reviews are here:

http://www.remotecentral.com/ureview/116.htm

I have a Lite-On dvd recorder that will record to CD any music from an anolog or digital source. For example, if I have an old record I want to save to CD, I can play it through my amp which in turn sends the signal to the Lite-On to burn it to the CD. Does the Polaroid have this ability as I think some DVD recorders do not?

The reason I ask is that I am thinking of getting a Sirius sat radio home receiver and hooking it up to my home theater amp. Lets say I want to record a four hour long opera being transmitted by Sirius. Can I hook the Sirius tuner to the Polaroid and record the music on the hard drive? Then I would want to edit the opera into highlights only, or a condensed version where I would edit out the parts of the opera that did not appeal to me. See what I am driving at? I would then hook up the Polaroid's audio output to my mini-disk recorder to save the performance that way. Can I do all this do you think?

I turned the Polaroid back on and it is quiet again and has been that way for a day, so I have no idea what happened. If it comes back, will inform.

BTW did another DVD-R with chapters and played it on my panny DVD home theater player and worked fine, so I see no good reason to buy a bunch of DVD+R disks but can use my stock of DVD-Rs.

That is great news on the DVD-R/Panasonic compatibility!

Speculation: On the louder-noise day, could it be that it was doing some disk-intensive internal maintanenance (eg defragramentation) so it amp'ed up the fan to cool off the spinning disk?

Lots of interesting tidbits on this recorder! Great information! It makes me even more interested in it, and the current price helps too :)

One thing that I saw raised was whether you could do continuous long programs on the HDD at SP/FR/LP. This is important for me as I would simply record 6-8 hours of ESPN/etc and then chop it up into individual games and HS-dub to DVD! Any issues with this with the Timer or OTR or plain recording? Thanks :-)

I have a Lite-On dvd recorder that will record to CD any music from an anolog or digital source. For example, if I have an old record I want to save to CD, I can play it through my amp which in turn sends the signal to the Lite-On to burn it to the CD. Does the Polaroid have this ability as I think some DVD recorders do not?

The reason I ask is that I am thinking of getting a Sirius sat radio home receiver and hooking it up to my home theater amp. Lets say I want to record a four hour long opera being transmitted by Sirius. Can I hook the Sirius tuner to the Polaroid and record the music on the hard drive? Then I would want to edit the opera into highlights only, or a condensed version where I would edit out the parts of the opera that did not appeal to me. See what I am driving at? I would then hook up the Polaroid's audio output to my mini-disk recorder to save the performance that way. Can I do all this do you think?
I believe you can as long as stay in the analog domain. Does your Sirius radio receiver allow you to output the satellite signal via digital signal path? Toslink, or coaxial, or both? Or, is just output as an analog signal? If wanting to record an analog signal, then it should not be a problem. Do you intend to transfer to your mini-disc via digital?

redjr...

I believe you can as long as stay in the analog domain. Does your Sirius radio receiver allow you to output the satellite signal via digital signal path? Toslink, or coaxial, or both? Or, is just output as an analog signal? If wanting to record an analog signal, then it should not be a problem. Do you intend to transfer to your mini-disc via digital?

redjr...

Thanks for the response redjr. I do not have the Stiletto Sirius tuner yet (hope to pick it up today) so I really do not know if I can even record from it to any other recording device because of copyright encoding that might prevent it. The Stiletto records and then plays back through headphones (they will have a docking station soon that can be used to hook the Stiletto to your home theater). I plan on using a Y pigtail from the headphone output to the audio inputs of the dvd recorder. I do not know if there is a way to achieve digital output from the Stiletto but I think there may be a way, via USB, to download from a PC; I just don't know if it goes the other way too.

I don't know if I would transfer the music from the dvd recorder to the mini-disc analog or digital. Probably would not make a lot of difference at this stage anyway but it is something I could play with.

Lots of interesting tidbits on this recorder! Great information! It makes me even more interested in it, and the current price helps too :)

One thing that I saw raised was whether you could do continuous long programs on the HDD at SP/FR/LP. This is important for me as I would simply record 6-8 hours of ESPN/etc and then chop it up into individual games and HS-dub to DVD! Any issues with this with the Timer or OTR or plain recording? Thanks :-)

No problems that I have found. Like it was previously mentioned it will record until the hard drive is full.

That is great news on the DVD-R/Panasonic compatibility!

Speculation: On the louder-noise day, could it be that it was doing some disk-intensive internal maintanenance (eg defragramentation) so it amp'ed up the fan to cool off the spinning disk?

Same speculation I have. It is loud again today and was yesterday, but started quiet. same today. When first turned on it was quiet, but later became less so. It could be that there is a thermistor or something similar that increases fan speed when certain temps are reached.

On your question on running it for long periods and cutting the show into segments, that is easily done. You need to be in manual recording. The time shift button moves between manual and time shift. If you are in time shift, you can record up to 3 hours and time shift at the same time. If you just push the record button in time shift, you will get 2:59 segments until you stop recording.

In manual you can set it to record any length you want and it will be a continuous segment, so 6-8 hours at any setting is fine. The split the recording into pieces using the HDD menu. I do that all the time, usually when I record two shows in one segment and only watch the first then split and save the second for later.

Thanks for the response redjr. I do not have the Stiletto Sirius tuner yet (hope to pick it up today) so I really do not know if I can even record from it to any other recording device because of copyright encoding that might prevent it. The Stiletto records and then plays back through headphones (they will have a docking station soon that can be used to hook the Stiletto to your home theater). I plan on using a Y pigtail from the headphone output to the audio inputs of the dvd recorder. I do not know if there is a way to achieve digital output from the Stiletto but I think there may be a way, via USB, to download from a PC; I just don't know if it goes the other way too.

I don't know if I would transfer the music from the dvd recorder to the mini-disc analog or digital. Probably would not make a lot of difference at this stage anyway but it is something I could play with.
This is off-topic....

I'm a big fan of XM and have several radios. A few years back they came out with the XMPCR which only worked on your PC via software. I modded it and added a Toslink digital jack on the back. Of course it wasn't to long before XM realized the error of their 'digital-rights' way and they quickly pulled it from the market. But, not before enough were sold and third-party apps showed up in the market place. It still works today and I have connected directly into a Yamaha Digital receiver via Toslink. I can then feed it directly into a Sony minidisc recorder and record digitally if I want - all without DRM restrictions. My dusty minidisc collection has since been replaced with MP3 players/recorders which I listen to almost exclusively now. However, I do listen to both XM and minidisc in my car. :D Even my son has a RoadyXT which he uses in the car and at his computer workstation! :cool:

redjr.... :)

My Yukon has XM as an option of the installed factory navigation radio. I think it is great. As a result I purchased an additional XM reciever with the home kit. The home kit has an FM modulator as well as a hard wire analog audio out jack. I have the XM receiver hooked into my surround sound system via the RCA audio jacks. It works great. I also have an intercom system in the home and I am able to pick up XM from the FM modulator using the intercoms base unit and pipe it to various zones throught the house. This also works great.

I see no reason why you should have any problems recording the analog output from either an XM or Sirius unit providing it has an audio out jack. Actually this should work fom any source providing you can use the audio input jacks of the Polaroid.

My Yukon has XM as an option of the installed factory navigation radio. I think it is great. As a result I purchased an additional XM reciever with the home kit. The home kit has an FM modulator as well as a hard wire analog audio out jack. I have the XM receiver hooked into my surround sound system via the RCA audio jacks. It works great. I also have an intercom system in the home and I am able to pick up XM from the FM modulator using the intercoms base unit and pipe it to various zones throught the house. This also works great.

I see no reason why you should have any problems recording the analog output from either an XM or Sirius unit providing it has an audio out jack. Actually this should work fom any source providing you can use the audio input jacks of the Polaroid.
The key in milacqua's case is analog out as opposed to digital.

redjr...

The key in milacqua's case is analog out as opposed to digital.

redjr...

Yes I agree. As the question relates to using the Polaroid to record audio - the Polaroid only has analog audio inputs.

No problems that I have found. Like it was previously mentioned it will record until the hard drive is full.

Thanks!

Same speculation I have. It is loud again today and was yesterday, but started quiet. same today. When first turned on it was quiet, but later became less so. It could be that there is a thermistor or something similar that increases fan speed when certain temps are reached.

On your question on running it for long periods and cutting the show into segments, that is easily done. You need to be in manual recording. The time shift button moves between manual and time shift. If you are in time shift, you can record up to 3 hours and time shift at the same time. If you just push the record button in time shift, you will get 2:59 segments until you stop recording.

In manual you can set it to record any length you want and it will be a continuous segment, so 6-8 hours at any setting is fine. The split the recording into pieces using the HDD menu. I do that all the time, usually when I record two shows in one segment and only watch the first then split and save the second for later.

Great! Thanks for the reply! The time-shifting buffer is definately a plus given the price-point. And the ability to edit the HDD is such a big plus compared to DVRs/TiVos.

Great! Thanks for the reply! The time-shifting buffer is definately a plus given the price-point. And the ability to edit the HDD is such a big plus compared to DVRs/TiVos.

Time shift was the reason I bought it instead of the 55. Plus half the cost and I can do dual layer on my computer if I really want it. I wanted a substitute for my VCR and the Polaroid does that with so much more.

Another excellent feature is to watch a show on the HDD and, at the same time, time shift is saving the show the tuner is set on, so you can zip through the HDD show and then go to the tuner and zip through it. Also, the skip commercial goes forward in 30 second increments but back in 10 sec, so it is much easier to go through the commercials than the ES-20.

Same with editing and saving a HDD show to DVD. You can watch a time shift show while burning the DVD. I times my most recent burn by watching the smudge on the screen's upper left. An edited, segmented movie took 18 minutes. I have found that even with the burn included it takes about 45 minutes to do everything from segmenting to remove commercials, re-title, new image, and inserting chapters.

Segmenting is the most difficult part, but it is simplified by using pause just before the break and then holding it down to move to the point you want to mark, hold down enter and wait a few seconds before moving along. It seems that the button does not take immediately, so the wait is needed. When I did it on the run I would get flashes of the commercial so it was about a second or less off. I did have a problem with paues in two places since it would not increment forward, but then started working again, so it is not perfect.

I picked up one of these several weeks ago and have been real pleased with the quality. The only letdown was the aforementioned remote. Yesterday I replaced the remotes LED with the Radio Shack 276-143 and it works perfect now. It only took 10 minutes to do.

Time shift was the reason I bought it instead of the 55. Plus half the cost and I can do dual layer on my computer if I really want it. I wanted a substitute for my VCR and the Polaroid does that with so much more.

Another excellent feature is to watch a show on the HDD and, at the same time, time shift is saving the show the tuner is set on, so you can zip through the HDD show and then go to the tuner and zip through it. Also, the skip commercial goes forward in 30 second increments but back in 10 sec, so it is much easier to go through the commercials than the ES-20.

Same with editing and saving a HDD show to DVD. You can watch a time shift show while burning the DVD. I times my most recent burn by watching the smudge on the screen's upper left. An edited, segmented movie took 18 minutes. I have found that even with the burn included it takes about 45 minutes to do everything from segmenting to remove commercials, re-title, new image, and inserting chapters.

Segmenting is the most difficult part, but it is simplified by using pause just before the break and then holding it down to move to the point you want to mark, hold down enter and wait a few seconds before moving along. It seems that the button does not take immediately, so the wait is needed. When I did it on the run I would get flashes of the commercial so it was about a second or less off. I did have a problem with paues in two places since it would not increment forward, but then started working again, so it is not perfect.

Interesting stuff! This sounds like a good bargain! If I was buying one right away I would be between this one and the Pioneer 640 (MN-modes and -RW(VR) over the Pana EH55 would do it for me). Another tempting aspect of the Polaroid is for those who want a dual tuner system, they can almost get two for the price of one Pioneer/Panasonic.

And unlike the Comcast DVR, the Polaroid doesn't lose the buffer contents when you change channels? So that is even more handy for channel surfers!

Interesting stuff! This sounds like a good bargain! If I was buying one right away I would be between this one and the Pioneer 640 (MN-modes and -RW(VR) over the Pana EH55 would do it for me). Another tempting aspect of the Polaroid is for those who want a dual tuner system, they can almost get two for the price of one Pioneer/Panasonic.

And unlike the Comcast DVR, the Polaroid doesn't lose the buffer contents when you change channels? So that is even more handy for channel surfers!

Yes I agree, very interesting. Beekeeper knows their stuff. One other thing with the time shift buffer. In setup under time shift you can set the Polaroid to either "save" or "refresh" the time shift buffer. What this means is that when you turn time shift off the Polaroid will either save the buffer to the HDD or will let it go i.e. "refresh". At least I think that's what it means :). Beekeeper?

Time shift was the reason I bought it instead of the 55. Plus half the cost and I can do dual layer on my computer if I really want it. I wanted a substitute for my VCR and the Polaroid does that with so much more.

Another excellent feature is to watch a show on the HDD and, at the same time, time shift is saving the show the tuner is set on, so you can zip through the HDD show and then go to the tuner and zip through it. Also, the skip commercial goes forward in 30 second increments but back in 10 sec, so it is much easier to go through the commercials than the ES-20.

Same with editing and saving a HDD show to DVD. You can watch a time shift show while burning the DVD. I times my most recent burn by watching the smudge on the screen's upper left. An edited, segmented movie took 18 minutes. I have found that even with the burn included it takes about 45 minutes to do everything from segmenting to remove commercials, re-title, new image, and inserting chapters.

Segmenting is the most difficult part, but it is simplified by using pause just before the break and then holding it down to move to the point you want to mark, hold down enter and wait a few seconds before moving along. It seems that the button does not take immediately, so the wait is needed. When I did it on the run I would get flashes of the commercial so it was about a second or less off. I did have a problem with paues in two places since it would not increment forward, but then started working again, so it is not perfect.

Ok- I have started to try segmenting- deleting some commercials. Can you give us the exact remote button steps to accomplish this once we hit segment in the menu interface?

Ok- I have started to try segmenting- deleting some commercials. Can you give us the exact remote button steps to accomplish this once we hit segment in the menu interface?

As a caveat, I have only done this a couple of times. As we all know, the manual is like visiting a new age guru. It seems to make sense but when you try it you end up with "what do I do now?" So some of this is my way and not necessarily the best way. That will come from all of us who experiment.

To KISS, I will start from the beginning. Caps are the buttons. Select HDD. UP or DOWN to the program, RIGHT then DOWN to SEGMENT then OK.

You will then see the program you want to segment. Go to (BTW, the GOTO button only works with a finalized DVD. Is useless elsewhere.) approximately where you want to start the first segment you want to eliminate.

I set the chapter marks in the initial time shift setup to 5 minutes, so I use the chapter forward button to move to the point quickly and the RIGHT or LEFT buttons to move to a point a slight bit ahead of the point.

Press PAUSE/STEP and continue to press it until you are at the break point before the commercial, usually a fade to black. You can step to the point by tapping the button or move right along by holding PAUSE/STEP down. I found that this occasionally does not work, and have no idea why not. It seems to stay in the same place, so I just press play and go back and try again.

(Here is where you need a new remote.) Press OK, release it and that marks the start point of the to-be-deleted segment. Wait a few seconds for the command to take. The problem with the Polaroid remote is you better be pointing it right where it is supposed to be or it will not take. The nice thing about the Harmony is I can point it toward Alaska and the Polaroid will pick it up. The problem is all in the remote, not the recorder.

However, it is easy to see if it took. Press PLAY then RIGHT to go about a minute and you will see the dark area. The dark area will be removed, the light area saved.

I found when I pressed OK when "on the fly", even with the Harmony, the point would not always be where I wanted it, even when I used the SLOW button and went to the slowest setting. PAUSE seems to work best, but remember to wait a few seconds after you release it to have it set the point.

You can use the SLOW button then PAUSE to get to the start point, but I found it to be one more step that was not required. PAUSE by itself is fine to get to the point.

Do the same with the end point. You now have your first segment. Continue until you are done then exit (I use RETURN but HDD works. The manual is silent in many procedures in both how to get in and out of the procedure).

One thing I have not found is how to correct one segment's start or end. You can edit chapter points but not segment points, at least I have not found out how. The add/clear button will clear all the segments, so you have to start over. A bit of a pain, but in most shows, a minor one. I had a slight flash in a 2 hour movie at two segments where I did not get the point correct, and that was the second attempt when I was still experimenting.

Finally, DO NOT try to segment the beginning or the end of what you are editing. It does not work well. Use the SPLIT feature in the HDD menu after you have segmented the show. I would split the beginning off, if needed, first but leave the end, since I found it difficult to segment at the end of a show with only a few minutes remaining.

To SPLIT, select it fromn the HHD menu and go to the point just like finding your segment spot and press OK. Here, as opposed to segment, it will ask you if that is where you want to split. Select OK and it will split. The first part will have the title, so if it is a beginning split, your remainder will be what you want to keep. I suggest RENAMING the second part immediately and deleting the first part to eliminate confusion. RENAMING is also in the HDD menu (Select the show then RIGHT for the menu).

You can view your handiwork by playing the show and checking out the transition points. Select the show, press OK and you will see that there is a new time and no segments, just a continuous light colored bar. So you will have to find the transition points by what is on the screen, not by time.

If you find problems, just go back to the segment menu and you will see all the segments. Add a segment you may have missed. Or ADD/CLEAR will clear all of them so you can start over.

BTW I wrote this while I made segments in a 1/2 hour show using the Polaroid remote and it worked fine with smooth transitions. But I stood about four feet away and right in front of it. With the harmony I can sit in the lazyboy.

Can I hook the Sirius tuner to the Polaroid and record the music on the hard drive?

I have not attempted to this yet, but I've thought about trying it with some D* XM Radio channels. The D* HR10-250 HD-DVR will not record music channels to its HD, so I've been considering using my Polaroid DVD recorder to do so. It just hasn't been that high of a priority for me right now, and just keeping up with the DVR to DVD transfers consumes most of my spare time.

One thing that might be an issue is that a video signal may be required for the Polaroid to record. [First let me say that my observations are limited to the YUV input, since I've never recorded from any other input.] When recording to HDD from the YUV input, I have noticed that during brief moments when there is no video signal, the Polaroid appears to pause the recording until the video signal returns. Therefore, if you don’t have any luck recording only an audio signal, try using a dummy video signal along with it. If that works (and I can't immagine why it wouldn't), then all you'll need is a way to extract only the Audio Content from the recorded DVD. I'm guessing that's a fairly simple process that can be learned with a little research, or from some other AVS Forum member that is more diverse than me.

Any number of applications on a PC can extract the audio portion of a finalized DVD. For example I use TMPGEnc. If you record initially as LPCM then you will have 16-bit-per-sample linear PCM stereo at 48K samples per second, the highest quality available to most standlaone DVD Recorders. This can be ripped, for example, as 44.1K samples per second LPCM which is suitable for burning straight to a CD.

I have not attempted to this yet, but I've thought about trying it with some D* XM Radio channels. The D* HR10-250 HD-DVR will not record music channels to its HD, so I've been considering using my Polaroid DVD recorder to do so. It just hasn't been that high of a priority for me right now, and just keeping up with the DVR to DVD transfers consumes most of my spare time.

One thing that might be an issue is that a video signal may be required for the Polaroid to record. [First let me say that my observations are limited to the YUV input, since I've never recorded from any other input.] When recording to HDD from the YUV input, I have noticed that during brief moments when there is no video signal, the Polaroid appears to pause the recording until the video signal returns. Therefore, if you don’t have any luck recording only an audio signal, try using a dummy video signal along with it. If that works (and I can't immagine why it wouldn't), then all you'll need is a way to extract only the Audio Content from the recorded DVD. I'm guessing that's a fairly simple process that can be learned with a little research, or from some other AVS Forum member that is more diverse than me.

Sorry for capturing your entire quote but I think you are right about your video comment. Without a video feed I do not think you can record audio. Your suggestion makes perfect sense. Use a "BS" video feed in order to enable audio recording. Nice catch.

The more I learn ...... The more I realize how much I don't know. :o

If you record initially as LPCM then you will have 16-bit-per-sample linear PCM stereo at 48K samples per second, the highest quality available to most standlaone DVD Recorders.

Being the Novus that I am, I had to Google "LPCM". Now that I have expanded my knowledge base, and assuming that I'm not the only Dummy that isn't failure with this term, I thought I would share my findings.

LPCM
(From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia)

Linear Pulse Code Modulation used in communications (or LPCM) is a format that is a popular choice in music production. It can have up to 8 channels of audio at 48 kHz or 96 kHz sampling frequency and 16, 20 or 24 bits per sample. It has a maximum bit rate of 6.144 MB/s.

The format, without compressing the sound data, simultaneously samples and captures analog signals and transforms them into digital signals. The uncompressed digital audio is the same format as what is used for music CDs. LPCM has been defined as a part of the DVD standard, but most average DVD players only support 48 kHz/16-bit capability. Only relatively more expensive players have built-in 96 kHz/24-bit capabilities.

To start enjoying the benefits of 24-bit/96 kHz LPCM audio, you will need to make sure you have the right hardware to support it. For the PC, you will need to have a sound card that fully supports 24-bit/96 kHz LPCM. In addition to that, the DVD movie you are playing has to be recorded in 24-bit/96 kHz LPCM format (generally these are musicals or concerts).

When I select HQ mode to get the best Picture Quality, I'm assuming that I am also getting the best Audio Quality.

This raises the question of what happens to the Audio Quality when lower Video resolution modes (such as SP, LP, ect.) are used?

Ignoring codec algorithms and simply thinking of SP mode as having 1/2 the resolution of HQ mode, LP as 1/3, EP as 1/4, and so on, is the Audio Content compressed in a similar fashion when these modes are used?

When I select HQ mode to get the best Picture Quality, I'm assuming that I am also getting the best Audio Quality.

This raises the question of what happens to the Audio Quality when lower Video resolution modes (such as SP, LP, ect.) are used?

Ignoring codec algorithms and simply thinking of SP mode as having 1/2 the resolution of HQ mode, LP as 1/3, EP as 1/4, and so on, is the Audio Content compressed in a similar fashion when these modes are used?

Best way to find out is to test it. Here are results for HQ and SP. 7th post down:

http://forum.videohelp.com/viewtopic.php?t=305350&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=30

Best way to find out is to test it. Here are results for HQ and SP. 7th post down:
Handy hint I learned recently:

Just like in our AVSForum, if you right-click on a Post #, or a Post # symbol like in your link, then select "Copy Shortcut," you can link directly to the post.

(If you knew this already, I apologize!) :)

Handy hint I learned recently:

Just like in our AVSForum, if you right-click on a Post #, or a Post # symbol like in your link, then select "Copy Shortcut," you can link directly to the post.

(If you knew this already, I apologize!) :)

Thanks, I was not aware of this.

I posted previously that I was able to copy to the HDD of the Polaroid my store bought DVD using a Philips 642 (feb. 2004 build with original firmware). I thought that was interesting information. I used Pirates of the Caribbean as the test DVD.

Here's the update. It looks like the Polaroid will copy your store bought DVD's to the HDD from any DVD player if the DVD is not a Disney DVD. If you want to copy a Disney DVD to the HDD then you will need the Philips I mentioned. Here's my test:

DVD's
Lord of the Rings (FOTR) Extended Version
Gladiator (Extended Version)
Deep Cover

DVD Players/Recorders all used as a DVD player into the Polaroid:

Apex 660
Apex 703 (BT chipset)
Apex 703 (CT chipset)
Cyberhome 1600 DVD Recorder
Cyberhome 1200 DVD Recorder
RCA Scenium DRS 7000
Go Video D2730 (this is actually pretty cool - it is a networked DVD player)
Samsung R-100 DVD recorder
Philips 5960
Panasonic SA-HT 700
Koss DVP 2161
Toshiba D-KR2 DVD Recorder
Lennox DVD-2003

Well guess what. The Polaroid was able to copy the three DVD titles mentioned above using the DVD players mentioned above in all cases. So my guess is it should work with any player. It looks like the Polaroid is macrovision/copy protection free for anything but Disney (using Pirates as an example of a Disney release).

I found this interesting.

edit - I made a mistake and removed the Toshiba R5 from the list. I replaced it with the Koss.

edit #2 - By the way I am not a promoter of bypassing copy protection. I am just reporting something I found unique to the Polaroid as compared to other recorders I have experience with.

I posted previously that I was able to copy to the HDD of the Polaroid my store bought DVD using a Philips 642 (feb. 2004 build with original firmware). I thought that was interesting information. I used Pirates of the Caribbean as the test DVD.

Here's the update. It looks like the Polaroid will copy your store bought DVD's to the HDD from any DVD player if the DVD is not a Disney DVD. If you want to copy a Disney DVD to the HDD then you will need the Philips I mentioned. Here's my test:

DVD's
Lord of the Rings (FOTR) Extended Version
Gladiator (Extended Version)
Deep Cover

DVD Players/Recorders all used as a DVD player into the Polaroid:

Apex 660
Apex 703 (BT chipset)
Apex 703 (CT chipset)
Cyberhome 1600 DVD Recorder
Cyberhome 1200 DVD Recorder
RCA Scenium DRS 7000
Go Video D2730 (this is actually pretty cool - it is a networked DVD player)
Samsung R-100 DVD recorder
Philips 5960
Panasonic SA-HT 700
Koss DVP 2161
Toshiba D-KR2 DVD Recorder
Lennox DVD-2003

Well guess what. The Polaroid was able to copy the three DVD titles mentioned above using the DVD players mentioned above in all cases. So my guess is it should work with any player. It looks like the Polaroid is macrovision/copy protection free for anything but Disney (using Pirates as an example of a Disney release).

I found this interesting.

edit - I made a mistake and removed the Toshiba R5 from the list. I replaced it with the Koss.

edit #2 - By the way I am not a promoter of bypassing copy protection. I am just reporting something I found unique to the Polaroid as compared to other recorders I have experience with.

That is unique alright, freaking incredibly unique. This actually might be an option for someone to back up their non commercial DVD's(home videos)(if they did not want to use a computer, or did not have a Pioneer HDD DVDR model). Did you use component cable to component cable and what was the quality like? I wonder if this is why they recalled them at Wally? When did you buy yours? Additionally the Pio HDD DVDRs(or computer ostensibly) will make a lossless dub of your home video or any recording that you have done whereas there would be a reincode(loss) on a transfer to the Polaroid HDD.

Ok - I just confirmed nextoo's findings. This Polaroid model has a bigtime lack of copy protection safeguards incorporated into it. This is obviously the first HDD model to ever have this errant capability. I used a Panasonic XP-30(2002 model) DVD player for component to component input and it even transferred a Disney DVD (circa 2004). Now let's get one thing straight: we own this DVDR unit and are ONLY testing this DVDRs capabilities. I do not make copies of commercial DVDS or ever will. I buy them and do not make copies of what I buy, although I should have that right. Any tests I do, along these lines, go in the garbage. I obey Federal Law as everyone should. Our testing is for informational purposes- no government on Earth should ever suppress information that is not harmful to its national security.

Btw FYI- the XP-30 did fail to transfer some-not as perfect as nextoos dvd players- this is very dependent upon the DVD Player and the type disc.

I posted previously that I was able to copy to the HDD of the Polaroid my store bought DVD using a Philips 642 (feb. 2004 build with original firmware). I thought that was interesting information. I used Pirates of the Caribbean as the test DVD.

Here's the update. It looks like the Polaroid will copy your store bought DVD's to the HDD from any DVD player if the DVD is not a Disney DVD. If you want to copy a Disney DVD to the HDD then you will need the Philips I mentioned. Here's my test:

DVD's
Lord of the Rings (FOTR) Extended Version
Gladiator (Extended Version)
Deep Cover

DVD Players/Recorders all used as a DVD player into the Polaroid:

Apex 660
Apex 703 (BT chipset)
Apex 703 (CT chipset)
Cyberhome 1600 DVD Recorder
Cyberhome 1200 DVD Recorder
RCA Scenium DRS 7000
Go Video D2730 (this is actually pretty cool - it is a networked DVD player)
Samsung R-100 DVD recorder
Philips 5960
Panasonic SA-HT 700
Koss DVP 2161
Toshiba D-KR2 DVD Recorder
Lennox DVD-2003

Well guess what. The Polaroid was able to copy the three DVD titles mentioned above using the DVD players mentioned above in all cases. So my guess is it should work with any player. It looks like the Polaroid is macrovision/copy protection free for anything but Disney (using Pirates as an example of a Disney release).

I found this interesting.

edit - I made a mistake and removed the Toshiba R5 from the list. I replaced it with the Koss.

edit #2 - By the way I am not a promoter of bypassing copy protection. I am just reporting something I found unique to the Polaroid as compared to other recorders I have experience with.
You are talking abount an analog copy here... right? For a minute I thought you could just pop in a commercial DVD and rip it to the Polaroid's HD, but after re-reading, I don't think that is the case. I don't know many people that prefer to make DVD copies this way though.

redjr...

You are talking abount an analog copy here... right? For a minute I thought you could just pop in a commercial DVD and rip it to the Polaroid's HD, but after re-reading, I don't think that is the case. I don't know many people that prefer to make DVD copies this way though.

redjr...

Yes you are correct.

I'm guessing the Polaroid is getting to the end of its run.

I noticed recently local Wallys do not seem to be getting new shelf inventory. Also online Wally now lists the Polaroid as available for purchase as "online only".

So what happens after you copy a store bought DVD to the HDD ? If you do it in HQ you won't be able to fit the copy back onto a DVD. If you do it is SP you will lose quality. If the Polaroid was DL then it would be pretty cool.

So what happens after you copy a store bought DVD to the HDD ? If you do it in HQ you won't be able to fit the copy back onto a DVD. If you do it is SP you will lose quality. If the Polaroid was DL then it would be pretty cool.
Even if it had DL capability you're going to loose quality. It's an analog transfer/copy.

redjr... :)

Yes there will be a loss of quality - of course. Although I think the LSI chipset does a really good job. About all you can really say is that the quality should be similiar to the quality it provides when recording from other sources.

So what happens after you copy a store bought DVD to the HDD ? If you do it in HQ you won't be able to fit the copy back onto a DVD. If you do it is SP you will lose quality. If the Polaroid was DL then it would be pretty cool.

True but with the HDD I have installed now I have over 200 hrs available in SP. That's over one hundred 2 hour flicks on the HDD. That's a lot of real estate - which might get larger as the price of higher capacity drives come down. If I moved something to the HDD I really would have no intentions of burning it to another optical disc. Just park it on the HDD for a while and then blow it away.

Who knows. I'm really not advocating anything. Just informing on what I discovered.

By the way who the heck are these Polaroid firmware guys? Allowing this copy ability is a serious mistake in my opinion. They really missed it on this one. This along with the ability to easily swap out the HDD and the DVD burner my advice is to NEVER upgrade the firmware if an upgrade becomes available.

Actually swapping out the HDD is a boon to many users- but not myself- I already own the Panny DVDR E-500- 400GB circa 2004. :)

I'm guessing the Polaroid is getting to the end of its run.

I noticed recently local Wallys do not seem to be getting new shelf inventory. Also online Wally now lists the Polaroid as available for purchase as "online only".

Dang, you got me all paranoid and I ran down to the local Wally's and got me another one. They still had 5 on the shelf. :)

Ron

True but with the HDD I have installed now I have over 200 hrs available in SP. That's over one hundred 2 hour flicks on the HDD. That's a lot of real estate
Ok. You got me there. That is a lot of movies that you can easily watch at the push of a button. Much easier than getting a DVD off the shelves.

I just got back from Walmart and they had a few in stock. Very slim pickings for any other decent recorders though. I would think they's be gearing up for the holidays soon.

Problems here. Unfortunately. I picked up another unit last week because I have been pleased with the Polaroid. The unit I picked up had a serial number that began with an F. The serial number will let you know the production month. For example a serial number that begins with an A will be a January production. A unit with a serial number thant begins with a B means February, C is March etc (I picked this info up from another site).

The unit I picked up last week was a serial number that started with an F which means a June production date. I had serious problems using the back panel inputs. The picture that passed through when the Polaroid was on was terrible. Really bad. When I used the front input things looked good. I figured it was a bad unit and returned it.

Today I was at a different Wally and decided to try another one. The serial began with a G which means it was a July production date. To my suprise I had the same problems. Very bad picture using the back panel inputs. The picture was OK using the front panel input.

Not sure what this means but it is going back too. It is unusable. I wonder if this is the problem that others have had which was reported earlier in this thread.

There may be more than one version of the Polaroid being distributed. Both different hardware and different firmware versions (possibly). I know for a fact that there is more than one hardware version because the display model I looked at today was a unit that had Feb-2006 printed on the back of the unit and the back panel had a fan grill. This is completely different than the unit I have had for a couple of months. The unit I have has an internal fan without the back panel grill and mine has no date printed on the back. This display model I saw today may be the loud fan version. Also there were different style boxes on the shelf. The older Feb-2006 model shows the Polaroid with a darker front panel in the picture and a "B" serial number on the box.

Again not sure what all this means but if you have just purchased a new one then I suggest testing it.

edit - here's a link that shows a pack panal with the fan grill I mentioned.

http://forum.videohelp.com/viewtopic.php?t=279460&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=97

scroll down until you see a picture of the back panel (I still have not figured out how to save the link properly - sorry)

Nextoo- I have the F unit according to you meaning June 2006 production- I have had no problems on pass through- by pass through I assume you mean viewing through component or s-vid TV programs- additionally and unrelated my recordings have been great. I have no fan grill and it is fairly noisy but not excessive. No date on back. My Wally just got in some new boxes of these -I may check their serial #s.

On another subject- let me tell you what this DVDR is best at- recording movies on HD channels(or any type movie or other channel without commercials for that matter). It is excellent with the LSI domino chipset. Now if you want to record programs where you need to delete a lot of commercials, do not buy this unit. Segmenting (deleting commercials) is hellish on this unit. The split title feature works great for your movies or other because you can set it a couple minutes early and later to make sure you get the full program record. Then use split which works great to get rid of excess. We also have to keep in mind the relativity of the inexpensive price of this HDD unit.

Regarding the recall of this model several months ago at Walmart- I theorize that it was because of several factors:
1.Copy protection was not as strong-firmware updates may have corrected this.
2.Remote problems-well documented.
3. Operating Manual revisions- although my latest version is still bad.
There are probably other factors-after all it takes a lot to actually recall a product.

Mine is a "B" unit and has the fan on the rear. This is my second unit. I replaced the first one because it seems like there was volume attenuation through the tuner. I don't know what serial number my first unit was.

This one worked pretty well for a month and then the fan got noisy. It's pretty loud. It sounds like there is always a tape in a VCR rewinding.

I'm not sure if I will exchange for another or get a Pioneer DVR-640H.

I'll add to what HoustonGuy said. What the Polaroid is best at is recording from VHS or 8mm to make DVD's that you will bring to your computer to reauthor. The LSI chipset does a great job of filtering noise. Even the casual observer notices it.

When you play the program recorded on the HDD, the segmented portions would not play. Are these "deleted" segments still on the HDD and just not show up during playing? When you burn the program to HDD, would the segmented segments be still recorded?

I just got the unit 2 days ago, and started recording from HD channels. Great pictures considering it is at 480 resolution. The fan unit is quiet on this unit with the serial number starting with "E". The remote is weak; if I do plan to keep this unit (and I probably will), I will replace the LED with the Radioshack 276-143. Was thinking also about the Radioshack Accrurian recorder, but decided to back off when it was posted at some other forum that the manufacturer has discontinued this model.

When you play the program recorded on the HDD, the segmented portions would not play. Are these "deleted" segments still on the HDD and just not show up during playing? When you burn the program to HDD, would the segmented segments be still recorded?

The segmented parts are still on the HDD. You can see them if you go to the HDD menu for that program and select segment. You will see the segmented file. When in the segment section, you can also play the program including the segments.

The segmented parts are still on the HDD. You can see them if you go to the HDD menu for that program and select segment. You will see the segmented file. When in the segment section, you can also play the program including the segments.

Thank you for your reply. Can you tell me if I record the program to DVD from the HDD, will the segments also be recorded or not?

Also a simple dumb novice question: I noticed in your previous post about the commercial skip function. Is that during HDD or DVD playback? and which button is it?

I appreciate all the informative posts and tips put on this forum (sometimes it is hard to go through the super long thread and having to go back to look for some info you have read but forgotten! .....THe more you read, the more you understand about the machine, and understand some previous posts that you didn't understand the first round).

BTW the recent unit I got from Walmart several days ago is an E series machine May06 with bottom fan and vent. Fan can be heard though not loud. I guess I am also stuck with a weak remote :( that I have to "fix". The only input I have been using for TV recording is Cox HD cablebox (Motorola) via S-video. I try to record from the HD channels if all possble and they have been coming out quite good. When I playback , to avoid the squashed look, I just adjust the display on my ws tv to zoom to cut off the black bars at the top and bottom with any cutoff on the sides. I try not using the original recorder tuner as it is noisy.

Edit:
I just found the "sweet spot" for the remote which works well at 9 feet (my viewing distance) ONLY IF you have it at the same level as the recorder. It seems to have a fairly narrow vertical dispersion of the IR signal as it doesn't work too well if I had it even less than 1 foot higher or angled up a little bit. I am pondering if I should try getting the RadioShack LED which sounded like it is more powerful.

Can you tell me if I record the program to DVD from the HDD, will the segments also be recorded or not?
I'm almost positive they are not recorded.

Anyone tried high-motion sports (basketball, etc) with this recorder at various speeds? (SP, 2.5hour, 3hour, 4hour)? How does it compare? :-) Thanks!

Thank you for your reply. Can you tell me if I record the program to DVD from the HDD, will the segments also be recorded or not?

Also a simple dumb novice question: I noticed in your previous post about the commercial skip function. Is that during HDD or DVD playback? and which button is it?



The segments will not be recorded to DVD.

Commercial skip is my name for it but it is during HDD (not DVD where it gives a DVD menu) and is the right/left buttons by OK (ENTER). It goes 30 seconds forward and 10 seconds back.

:( Here is my deal: Just got the Polaroid DVD Recorder 80 GIG HD at Walmart in East Texas. It is a February 2006 model with the LOUD fan in the back. The remote is almost WORTHLESS. I have got it up and going...(what a headache!). The manual looks like it was done using a burned out Xerox copier.

1. I have it set up using a Dish Netork box, with S video. My TV is a Vizio 37 inch LCD. I am currently using the Video 1 input on the TV and the picture is coming through pretty good.

2. The 3 component cable is going from the Polaroid to the TV component inputs for the DVD and recorder (right?)

3. My big question is what settings the should the Video setup screen be? Interlaced or progressive? YPbPr?

4. You know that input screen that has Rsv, Yuv, I cant quite figure all that out either! The sound comes through on several options but NO PICTURE. I know what av is, and I got the off air tv channels right already.

5. Basic rules to go by would really go far! HELP!!!! :confused:

6. I have recorded the satellite signal to the HDD, but cant figure how to do the DVD player to HDD?

7. Everytime the DVD is on, and I use the remote to record to HDD, it ALWAYS goes to the DV input. (The manual explains almost NOTHING, in general. Like what the crap is FCVBS on and off?

Just to clarify, I’ve created a quick (partial) list of Segmentation Hints, some of which may not be clearly stated in the User Manual.

1) Segmented files on HDD do retain the original content, and these omitted sections (marked in a darker shade) can be restored at any time while the file is still on the HDD.

2) The [CLEAR] button clears ALL segments.

3) Segmented sections are NOT transferred to DVD copies.

4) The time indication in the Segment Screen is the original playback time, and still includes the times in the omitted segments.

5) When viewing the file list in the HDD screen, the indicated length of a recording still includes the segments, which can be misleading when trying to determine if it will fit on a DVD.

6) Segmented files can be split without loosing the segmented sections, which will remain in tact in both halves.

7) When in the Segment Screen, the [NEXT CHAPTER] button (>>|) works a little different than it does in the Split Screen. While it will still advance to the next auto-chapter stop point (including those within segments), it will also stop at the beginning and end of each segment.

8) Segmentation can be done in multiple sessions, so new segments can be added to an already segmented file.

I have also managed to successfully edit, and even remove, individual segments, but this is a tricky process, so I need to play with this a little bit more before attempting to describe how to do so.

Thank you LeeJay... excellent tips.

One tip... I had a little over 1 sec of material at the begining of a show that I did not want. The segment feature just would not work with this small of a cut. I was able to use the Split feature to cut out the 1 sec.

On my first attempt, it said that it could not split because it was too small. So, in pause mode and pressing the pause button, I could inch forward. The time still displayed 1 sec, but it finally let me split it.

Handy for fixing errors from previous edits.

Ron

Nice stuff guys, and very similar to what I have found with my Philips DVDR3455/37. Especially using the Pause and then "inching forward" to get enough "space" to trim a very short segment off of a recording. Also, I have found removing the "segment markers" to be just a bit aggravating when trying to do them individually. I was able to "save/fix" one recording that had several "near misses" on my first segmentation pass, but it took me about an hour to fix 3-4 segment markers that I initially "mis-placed". Ugggghhhhhh.

Yes I agree great info. Thanks Beekeeper, LeeJay and ASOT.

I looks like there may now be three versions of the Polaroid. One with the fan grill on the back. One with it on the bottom of the unit. And one with the internal fan. I mentioned that mine is the one with the internal fan. I do not sense a thermal issue with mine. And it seems quiet enouigh. At least for the moment. :)

What's the biggest HDD swap anyone has plugged and played on this? And what were its specs?

What's the biggest HDD swap anyone has plugged and played on this? And what were its specs?

I have tried the following drives successfully:

Seagate ST3200822A 200gb

Western Digital WD2500 250gb

Maxtor Diamond Max 11 500gb

Check out these record times with the 500gb Maxtor:

HQ 118 hrs.
SP 239 hrs.
SP+ 277 hrs.
LP 331 hrs.
EP 465 hrs.
SLP 703 hrs. !!!!

The Maxtor was the cheapest 500gb drive I could find. I think Newegg has them for $170 now. It is an ATA-133 with 16 megs of cashe and 7200 RPM's.

This Polaroid will probably take anything you want to put in it. I am going to franken this to 750gb. I just ordered a 18 inch ide cable that I'm going to fish through the case and have an external drive setup. Right now my 250gb drive is full and I have to burn to DVD's and I'm getting tired of opening the case. I'll have to manually swap the ide cable but it is better than opening the case. By the way I noticed that my Polaroid only likes a single drive ide cable. It would not boot using a two drive ide cable.

I'll post some pics when I'm done.

edit - I said I was going to franken this Polaroid to 750gb's but in reality the size is limitless. I could easily pick up another Maxtor 500gb and I'd have 1.25 terabytes.

So how much would 1,000 500gb drives add up to? :)

Last edit I promise - This Polaroid is fricken unbelievable

I can't help but be curious what you see when you look at one of those drives on a PC.

I can't help but be curious what you see when you look at one of those drives on a PC.

They appear as unallocated under XP2. I wish I could see them under XP. I'm going to try Linux next.

Here's a quick pic after I deleted everything off the 500gb drive:

Just bought the replacement LED for the remote from Radioshack store in town (model 276-143).

Checked the specs just to find out that the LED I got has different specs compared to what is posted on the Radioshack web site for the same LED model:

-----------------Radiant Power------Forward current--------Viewing angle 1/2 intensity

Web item:------7.368 mW------------29mA---------------------6.36 degrees

Store item:-----16.00 mW-----------100mA--------------------45 degrees


Web item:--------1.28v forward voltage..........Store:------1.2v forward voltage
Web item:---------Clear enclosure...................Store:------Blue

Both have same output at 940 nm wavelength.

Has anyone used the blue ones? which takes higher current but gives out more infrared output. Hope that doesn't affect the remote circuitry as I do not know whether the remote can put out the 100mA . If it works with the remote without "hurting" the electronics, then I am sure it will rock because of the high output.

I have tried the following drives successfully:

Seagate ST3200822A 200gb

Western Digital WD2500 250gb

Maxtor Diamond Max 11 500gb

Check out these record times with the 500gb Maxtor:

HQ 118 hrs.
SP 239 hrs.
SP+ 277 hrs.
LP 331 hrs.
EP 465 hrs.
SLP 703 hrs. !!!!

The Maxtor was the cheapest 500gb drive I could find. I think Newegg has them for $170 now. It is an ATA-133 with 16 megs of cashe and 7200 RPM's.

This Polaroid will probably take anything you want to put in it. I am going to franken this to 750gb. I just ordered a 18 inch ide cable that I'm going to fish through the case and have an external drive setup. Right now my 250gb drive is full and I have to burn to DVD's and I'm getting tired of opening the case. I'll have to manually swap the ide cable but it is better than opening the case. By the way I noticed that my Polaroid only likes a single drive ide cable. It would not boot using a two drive ide cable.

I'll post some pics when I'm done.

edit - I said I was going to franken this Polaroid to 750gb's but in reality the size is limitless. I could easily pick up another Maxtor 500gb and I'd have 1.25 terabytes.

So how much would 1,000 500gb drives add up to? :)

Last edit I promise - This Polaroid is fricken unbelievable

Nextoo......that is simply AHHHHSOME!!! :D When you do the external IDE Mod will you please post pictures. I have several Western Digital MyBook external HDD's and I like them a lot. I wonder if it would be possible to do an IDE to USB2 external hookup so I could use those drives. They cost a little more, but the styling is excellent as is the functionality. Just a thought........... Dunno if it's possible or practical.

Those external HDD's are probably IDE inside the enclosure, which is doing a USB-to-IDE conversion. An IDE-to-USB conversion on top of that would make it a round trip!

Those external HDD's are probably IDE inside the enclosure, which is doing a USB-to-IDE conversion. An IDE-to-USB conversion on top of that would make it a round trip!

True but I've got a few removable ide drive racks laying around similiar to this:

http://www.globalcomputer.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=993580&CatId=0

They are meant to be installed into a PC case but will work fine externally. I have a cable to power it independent of the Polaroid. Mine has a key on the front which when unlocked cuts the power to the drive (to be used as an on/off switch). It has an IDE connection on the back of it. I ordered a two foot rounded ide cable (decided on the rounded instead of an 18 inch ribbon cable).

I will have to power down the Polaroid if I want to swap a drive but for a terabyte+ (and counting) of storage it should be no big deal.

Also with this setup I won't have to pull the ide cable to switch drives. I'll be able to use drive trays for the hard drive swap.

Yeah best to just keep it IDE all the way from the PC to the drive(s).

If you can figure out a way to copy an entire drive to another drive for backup purposes, you'd be taking less chances on storing massive amounts of video that way. Possibly on Linux using a disc-copy utility like dd.

bobkart - thanks for the info. I currently do not have a linux implementation installed. It would be nice if linux could see the drive(s). I think there is a good chance though.

Nextoo......that is simply AHHHHSOME!!! :D When you do the external IDE Mod will you please post pictures. I have several Western Digital MyBook external HDD's and I like them a lot. I wonder if it would be possible to do an IDE to USB2 external hookup so I could use those drives. They cost a little more, but the styling is excellent as is the functionality. Just a thought........... Dunno if it's possible or practical.

Believe it or not it was posted earlier in this thread that there is a usb port location on the main board. The port itself is not there but the place for it is and there is a USB notation on the board. A super long shot though.

Has anyone used the blue ones? which takes higher current but gives out more infrared output. Hope that doesn't affect the remote circuitry as I do not know whether the remote can put out the 100mA . If it works with the remote without "hurting" the electronics, then I am sure it will rock because of the high output.


I bought the blue one at Radio Shack and have not had any problems in the last few weeks, yet.

I just bought this unit at the local Wallymart and it has a G as the first letter in the serial number should I be concerned? Any firmware updates. Are you happy with the unit or should I get a non-harddriver recorder. Thanks for any help.

I would NEVER go with a non-HDD recorder again. I am not sure the lasers are designed for long, continuous streaming and so they seem to burn out quickly and the HDD is a fantastic convenience.

I have the Accurian 3223 and the Polaroid. Mine is the noisy polaroid but I still prefer it because it can "multitask" among other reasons. I like both though.

thanks for the advice. I own a Tosiba unit tivo with the dvd burner. I like it but want something for the other television. My Tivo was originally for me now it is the wife and kids. I am still wondering if the G which I take to mean July is a good build for the unit. Anyone have G-units ( :eek: ) they are happy with? thanks again.

Been researching on this Polaroid for quite some time. And just bought one myself off fleebay, but I have not yet hook it up yet. I'm hoping some day soon ppl will find out how to update the firmware o this baby. It'll open a new flood gate of possibilities.

-------------
Posted from another site, someone called Polaroid and got this answer back regarding manufacture date:
A=Jan, B=Feb..etc...

-------------
Many ask about region free.
I think DVD region is usually associated to the DVD drive itself rather than the machine the drive is connected to. Also there are reports that ppl can swap the DVD burner in the Polaroid unit to get better HD->DVD burn speed, etc. And some dvd-drive firmware can be loaded with a hacked version that makes the dvd drive region free (like my BenQ 1620).

Putting all together, I think you might be able to disable the region encoding if you swap the Polaroid's DVD drive with another drive that has a region-free FW loaded. Not to mention the added benefit of faster and quieter burns, with perhaps better burn quality.

This is just my unproven, educated guess. Maybe someone can test this.

-------------
I know this Polaroid recorder can play Divx and MPEG4. But can it play these types of files burned on a CD instead of a DVD?

Hello Everyone.

Like others I saw this in Walmart and decided to do some checking on this unit on the net. This board has been a great help with its tips and tricks and I just wanted to say thanks.

I picked one up in CA lastweek and it was DOA so that one went back to the store I was a little bit skeptical about getting another but I did. Its a G unit and I haven't recorded that much stuff yet but what I did record the PQ looked great on high quality.

I'm using the Component Outs to the TV with Coax Audio and have a Pioneer HD box coming in on Composite(Not enough cables yet to change it). I recorded a regular channel CBS and was very impressed with the recording.

When time shifting with the P I did notice on a few ocassions that the audio was just a tic out of sync with the picture and I dont know if that will be an issue or maybe its the coax audio has a slight delay. A quick power on and off seemed to cure it

Will test some more but I'm quite happy with the unit.

I bought the blue one at Radio Shack and have not had any problems in the last few weeks, yet.


Thanks.
I just put the blue LED in the remote and it works extremely well with wide angle of signal dispersion. I don't have to try hard to aim the remote at the decoder any more :)

OK - I've never had any experience with DVD Recorders or DVR's. After reading this post for a week I had to have one. I feel very fortunate, bought one with an F serial number - can't hear the fan and the remote seems to work as well as any of my others in my viewing room. Maybe I'm just too old to hear well and not too far from the input (about 10 feet)

I managed to get it connected and figured how to toggle through the inputs, the manual is pretty bad as indicated. I just finished my first test recording, a 1 hour video transfer from an old VHS. I have it on HDD now and am able to replay it from there. I cannot figure out how to transfer it to a DVD+RW now. Two simple(?) questions. 1) How do I perform this function - keystrokes? 2) If I read the manual right I cannot put chapters on the title on the HDD, but must do that after it is on the DVD+RW. that seems odd, maybe I didn't read it right. Thanks for any help.

OK - I've never had any experience with DVD Recorders or DVR's. After reading this post for a week I had to have one. I feel very fortunate, bought one with an F serial number - can't hear the fan and the remote seems to work as well as any of my others in my viewing room. Maybe I'm just too old to hear well and not too far from the input (about 10 feet)

I managed to get it connected and figured how to toggle through the inputs, the manual is pretty bad as indicated. I just finished my first test recording, a 1 hour video transfer from an old VHS. I have it on HDD now and am able to replay it from there. I cannot figure out how to transfer it to a DVD+RW now. Two simple(?) questions. 1) How do I perform this function - keystrokes? 2) If I read the manual right I cannot put chapters on the title on the HDD, but must do that after it is on the DVD+RW. that seems odd, maybe I didn't read it right. Thanks for any help.

To transfer to the HDD when you are in the HDD section highlight what you want to move to the RW. Then press add/clear on the remote.

Here's a link that discusses using removable HDD's with the Polaroid:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=8651292&&#post8651292

Thanks nextoo - I finally got it transferred this morning. It would be nice if it gave you any visual indication that the transfer is taking place, I stopped it the first time by powering off because I thought it was just hung up. I've still got a lot to learn about this thing. Now I'm trying to mark chapters and navigate and that's not even easy to figure out. Sheeesh!

Thanks nextoo - I finally got it transferred this morning. It would be nice if it gave you any visual indication that the transfer is taking place, I stopped it the first time by powering off because I thought it was just hung up. I've still got a lot to learn about this thing. Now I'm trying to mark chapters and navigate and that's not even easy to figure out. Sheeesh!

When you start the transfer, the unit shifts back to the tuner (if that is where you normally are) and if you look carefully you will see a yellow-green smudge in the left upper part of the picture. That is the indicator. When it is no longer there, you are done (about 15-20 min).

If you could see the whole screen, it would be obvious since it is animated and shows the transfer taking place. Unfortunately, most of us do not see the full screen.

Here's a pic of the bug that shows when transfering from the HDD to disc. When the bug goes away the transfer is complete.

I wandered over to Radio Shack today and got a couple of the new blue high output infrared LED's. Installed one into the remote and it's not even the same machine now, Thanks to the first one to actually try it. Responds almost instantaneously now which makes editing easy instead of a major chore.
Now if I could fix the mono tuner and low audio problem I'd be almost there... :p

I have one of the better remotes and have not done the led update but when I set up a Sony VL-600 remote to operate the Polaroid I noticed the same thing. Things now seem to dance around the screen. Even when naming a title for example. The cursor now moves quickly around the on screen keyboard. I read similiar comments from those using Harmony remotes. Moving away from the poor remote, regardless of the strategy is a huge improvement.

The remote is one of the easiest ones I've ever taken apart, just slid my thumbnail along the seam and it pretty much snapped right apart. Go for it, led is only 1.79 and probably cheaper at Frys or other suppliers.

When you start the transfer, the unit shifts back to the tuner (if that is where you normally are) and if you look carefully you will see a yellow-green smudge in the left upper part of the picture. That is the indicator. When it is no longer there, you are done (about 15-20 min).

If you could see the whole screen, it would be obvious since it is animated and shows the transfer taking place. Unfortunately, most of us do not see the full screen.


Can you "explain" what you mean by tuner? My signal is RS coming in from the Satellite. Also, I have been able to record to the HDD, and am getting around pretty good now. Also everytime I put in a DVD movie, the words are on the screen. I HATE THAT! I have figured out by hitting DISPLAY, you can turn it off. It gets old. I guess maybe you can tell me where the cables and inputs should be in for a BASIC GOOD SETUP? My tv is a VIZIO 37 LCD, with Dish Network and the Polaroid DVD Recorder. I have plenty of cables, plus my sound is coming through a Denon AV Receiver. Any good setup would be appreciated! THANKS! :o

Can you "explain" what you mean by tuner? My signal is RS coming in from the Satellite. Also, I have been able to record to the HDD, and am getting around pretty good now. Also everytime I put in a DVD movie, the words are on the screen. I HATE THAT! I have figured out by hitting DISPLAY, you can turn it off. It gets old. I guess maybe you can tell me where the cables and inputs should be in for a BASIC GOOD SETUP? My tv is a VIZIO 37 LCD, with Dish Network and the Polaroid DVD Recorder. I have plenty of cables, plus my sound is coming through a Denon AV Receiver. Any good setup would be appreciated! THANKS! :o

You need to become more comfortable with the setup menu. Go in and play around with it a bit.

When you begin your transfer the Polaroid will go back to the default input. Tuner was used as an example of this. You can set your default input in the setup menu under timeshift. For example if you set this to s-video/off then your default is the s-video input with the tims shift option off. This will also be your default input when you turn the unit on.

It also sounds like you have closed captions set to on. This can be turned off in the setup menu.

Somebody are "play" a DVD burned in the Polaroid 2001G
in another brand "DVD PLAYER" to speeds of 4, 8, or 16?
does it work well?
My DVDs burned in the Polaroid 2001G
only work well in other "DVD PLAYER" brands to speeds 1 or 2.
A video of 1 hour, at any superior speed to 2,
always is playing at 10 seconds.
is it a SETUP error? (that do I?)
or Design error?

Alguien ha probado ejecutar un DVD generado en el Polaroid
2001G en un DVD PLAYER de diferente marca a velocidades de
4, 8 o 16?
Les funciono bien?
En otras marcas a mi, solo me funciona bien a velocidades 1 y 2.
Un video de 1 hora de duracion,
displayado a cualquier velocidad superior a 2
siempre lo proyecta en 10 segundos.
Esto es un problema de un error de setup que yo he hecho?
o ... un error de diseno?

got the polaroid for a week, finally started trying things out today. I consider myself very tech savy. But just like everyone has said, this is indeed one of the worst designed UI I've seen for a consumer electronics. It is only topped by its horrific user's manual. Took me a couple of hours to finally starting to understand how things are laid out, but with some things still not very clear about exactly how it should work.
That being said, it is a pretty cool gadget for the price. It can pretty intelligently handle most non-conflicting tasks simultaneously while recording is going on (i.e., watch DVD while recording to HDD). Kind of surprised since so much about the UI design is so dumb so I did not expect this. I still find a few things very awkward. And i still need to play with this baby some more to figure a few more things out. But so far, I think this is still a good buy over-all.
p.s. I loved the ability to pass-through the signal when the machine is offi.

...p.s. I loved the ability to pass-through the signal when the machine is offi.
This was common with VCRs of yester year.

redjr...

This was common with VCRs of yester year.

redjr...

Via component in/outputs?

Via component in/outputs?
Probably not. My mistake. But that's not what was said - or even inferred. Not many VCRs(at least the ones I owned) had component out. :D

redjr.... :)

Probably not. My mistake. But that's not what was said - or even inferred. Not many VCRs(at least the ones I owned) had component out. :D

redjr.... :)

Sorry I got it now. You mean the RF coax in/output.

If I buy this recorder directly online from Wal-Mart today do you think I'll be able to use it to record copyrighted material? I mean, make backups of copyrighted material. :) Or, do you think the ones that they are selling now have updated firmware that won't allow me to do what I want to do? I see that I can return it to a store if it doesn't do what I want it to do so I guess I can take my chances.

I still find a few things very awkward. And i still need to play with this baby some more to figure a few more things out.
It keeps getting better. I felt exactly the same way as you at first, things were rather clunky.

Now after owning this unit for two months I'm practically bragging to people how damn intuitive this unit really is !

If I buy this recorder directly online from Wal-Mart today do you think I'll be able to use it to record copyrighted material? I mean, make backups of copyrighted material. :) Or, do you think the ones that they are selling now have updated firmware that won't allow me to do what I want to do? I see that I can return it to a store if it doesn't do what I want it to do so I guess I can take my chances.

It should not be a problem. If it was ebay I would be more concerned. With Wally Mart you really have very little risk.

This was common with VCRs of yester year.
redjr...
That is only true for RF connection connected using coaxal cable. Most devices do not pass through component/s-/composite videos when powered off.

The remote is one of the easiest ones I've ever taken apart, just slid my thumbnail along the seam and it pretty much snapped right apart. Go for it, led is only 1.79 and probably cheaper at Frys or other suppliers.

Man, you must have fingernails of Steel :eek:

Tried a small screwdriver thinking it would pop easy (after your statement)...nope.

I might have to drop it on the floor a few times to loosen it up ;)

Fleaman

That is only true for RF connection connected using coaxal cable. Most devices do not pass through component/s-/composite videos when powered off.
I agree. However, that was not made clear by your post.

redjr...

Man, you must have fingernails of Steel :eek:

Tried a small screwdriver thinking it would pop easy (after your statement)...nope.

I might have to drop it on the floor a few times to loosen it up ;)

Fleaman

Fleaman you made my day. Every day requires a good laugh. Thanks for providing it. Very funny. Thanks again!

Ok, got it open with my fingernails of steel (screwdriver). Wasn't the prettiest seam after I got through with it.

Soldered the Ratshack infrared LED (276-143), yeah it was blue too.

Did a perfect solder job, much prettier than my plastic hack job.

OH MY GAWD!

It works like...well, like a real remote now! I don't have to stand 3" in front of the unit with aluminum foil cupped hands anymore (reenacted for dramatic effect).

Anyway, it really does work like a charm now. Makes me want to go through all the commands and rediscover life with a remote.

Fleaman

Ok, got it open with my fingernails of steel (screwdriver). Wasn't the prettiest seam after I got through with it.

Soldered the Ratshack infrared LED (276-143), yeah it was blue too.

Did a perfect solder job, much prettier than my plastic hack job.

OH MY GAWD!

It works like...well, like a real remote now! I don't have to stand 3" in front of the unit with aluminum foil cupped hands anymore (reenacted for dramatic effect).

Anyway, it really does work like a charm now. Makes me want to go through all the commands and rediscover life with a remote.

Fleaman


...Has anyone discovered a UNIVERSAL remote, that will COPY the Polaroid remote?...without spending a TON of $$$$$. Thanks :eek:

...Has anyone discovered a UNIVERSAL remote, that will COPY the Polaroid remote?...without spending a TON of $$$$$. Thanks :eek:

Sure, any universal remote capable of copying (sensor to sensor) should work. Previous posts here confirmed that.

But if you can solder, it only costs $1.94 (tax included) for the Ratshack infrared LED. Very easy to do once you open the remote. Then you will have a modded remote to wow your spouses and pets with.

Fleaman

HA! Usually I'm the one with the screwdriver of death trying to pry open a remote case to clean the contacts or something. Mine just popped open amazingly easily so I didn't have to bust the seam and half the clips like usual for me :rolleyes:
Maybe they have a couple of different remotes floating around or my Chinese worker wasn't slamming them together very hard that day...

this bit about substitute-soldering a $2 but good LED in place of the existing LED, is that in general to make ANY remote better? or Polaroid model just had a poor one to begin with?
just curious.

Sure, any universal remote capable of copying (sensor to sensor) should work. Previous posts here confirmed that.

But if you can solder, it only costs $1.94 (tax included) for the Ratshack infrared LED. Very easy to do once you open the remote. Then you will have a modded remote to wow your spouses and pets with.

Fleaman


Warning! I purchased, a Philips Universal for 19.97 at Target and it DOES NOT work (copy the Polaroid). It copied my Denon Receiver, and Dish Network Remote, but the "codes" did not work for Polaroid. I called the Philips company and complained. They said that "they wont work on everything"... :eek: That is why I asked the question, if someone has been SUCCESSFUL with a Universal Remote?.... :(

Warning! I purchased, a Philips Universal for 19.97 at Target and it DOES NOT work (copy the Polaroid). It copied my Denon Receiver, and Dish Network Remote, but the "codes" did not work for Polaroid. I called the Philips company and complained. They said that "they wont work on everything"... :eek: That is why I asked the question, if someone has been SUCCESSFUL with a Universal Remote?.... :(

Yes - the Sony VL-600. $25 at Wally World. I've posted it before in this thread.

Hi... new to this forum.

I know this topic has been touched on in general terms in this thread - and elsewhere in this forum - but I am seriously considering the Polaroid, & I wanted to confirm specific to this recorder:

For those of you with Comcast or TWC... when you output a HiDef signal at 480i on the STB, and record on the component in of your Polaroid, are you maintaining the aspect ratio on disc? In other words:

- When you play back to a widescreen display, does it play fullscreen (not letterboxed in a 4:3 window, i.e. black bars all around?)

- When you play back to a 4:3 display, what happens... does it automatically letterbox, or is the image stretched (in other words, is it properly setting the anamorphic flag?)

Note, I understand that no matter what the HiDef resolution will not record, but I am concerned with proper handling of the aspect ratio. Anyone willing to try this out?

Thanks,
David

Hi... new to this forum.

I know this topic has been touched on in general terms in this thread - and elsewhere in this forum - but I am seriously considering the Polaroid, & I wanted to confirm specific to this recorder:

For those of you with Comcast or TWC... when you output a HiDef signal at 480i on the STB, and record on the component in of your Polaroid, are you maintaining the aspect ratio on disc? In other words:

- When you play back to a widescreen display, does it play fullscreen (not letterboxed in a 4:3 window, i.e. black bars all around?)

- When you play back to a 4:3 display, what happens... does it automatically letterbox, or is the image stretched (in other words, is it properly setting the anamorphic flag?)

Note, I understand that no matter what the HiDef resolution will not record, but I am concerned with proper handling of the aspect ratio. Anyone willing to try this out?

Thanks,
David
There are two parts to this problem:

1. The source must provide a WSS signal in the VBI that indicates widescreen (hereafter referred to as the "widescreen flag") along with the video. Only a limited number of HD tuners/DVRs actually provide the widescreen flag.

If your source device does not provide the widescreen flag, it is possible to insert that WSS signal in the video path between the source device and the DVD recorder. I have personally tested a prototype Video Filter that was modified to provide user control of WSS-defined aspect ratios and it works well for my combination of an HR10-250 HD TiVo (from DirecTV) and a Pioneer 520H DVD recorder.

2. The DVD recorder needs to recognize and record the widescreen flag to make it available to the DVD player so it can control the output video format based on the user-setup-selected screen format (16:9 or 4:3) and 4:3 display for 16:9 programs (letterboxed or pan and scan).

So, as I see it, the question asked here is whether the Polaroid DVD recorder can recognize and record the WSS widescreen flag. The ability to test that capability requires a source that is known to include the WSS widescreen flag.

Hi... new to this forum.

I know this topic has been touched on in general terms in this thread - and elsewhere in this forum - but I am seriously considering the Polaroid, & I wanted to confirm specific to this recorder:

For those of you with Comcast or TWC... when you output a HiDef signal at 480i on the STB, and record on the component in of your Polaroid, are you maintaining the aspect ratio on disc? In other words:

- When you play back to a widescreen display, does it play fullscreen (not letterboxed in a 4:3 window, i.e. black bars all around?)

- When you play back to a 4:3 display, what happens... does it automatically letterbox, or is the image stretched (in other words, is it properly setting the anamorphic flag?)

Note, I understand that no matter what the HiDef resolution will not record, but I am concerned with proper handling of the aspect ratio. Anyone willing to try this out?

Thanks,
David

Using this as a reference:

http://www.thedigitalbits.com/articles/anamorphic/anamorphic185demo.html

My experience so far.

Using a widescreen HD television/SA 8300HD TWC/component in/out.

Playback to a wide screen displays with no letterbox. It plays back what was on the screen when it was recording. Using component input from the TWC SA8300HD box allows me to record in full screen 16x9. Using s-video the SA8300HD displays grey bars on the top and bottom of the screen which is recorded by the Polaroid. WYSIWYG.

When played back on a 4x3 display the image is stretched as depicted in the top right picture in the link.

When played back on a 16x9 HD television the image is the one on the bottom right column.

edit - I went back and reread this. It is probably important to add for others that may read this that when recording from a 4x3 source the aspect ratio is fine.

That's too bad - I was really hoping for proper playback on my upstairs CRT without having to learn IFO edit, re-burn, etc.

Still, I might go with the Polaroid because:

- (Upgradeable) hard disk
- passes 1080i through (when off)
- component in.

I've heard the widescreen flag can be manually set on some of the Sonys, but I've also heard that their copy protection is too finicky.

Budget_HT: regarding the video filter... Good input! I guess that's really the question, isn't it? Does anyone have a way to generate the widescreen flag into the Polaroid's component inputs to test?

Yes I agree it is too bad. But the way it handles wide screen it good enough for me at the price point.

Warning! I purchased, a Philips Universal for 19.97 at Target and it DOES NOT work (copy the Polaroid). It copied my Denon Receiver, and Dish Network Remote, but the "codes" did not work for Polaroid. I called the Philips company and complained. They said that "they wont work on everything"... :eek: That is why I asked the question, if someone has been SUCCESSFUL with a Universal Remote?.... :(
Hm.. I thought programmable remotes just record IR frequencies. Didn't think there would be IR remotes cannot be copied...
In any case, my opinion is that with a complicated machine and difficult user interface like the polaroid, it's unlikely you will find any universal remote that will work better than the original remote (other than the signal strength part). I think you'll be better off doing the simple LED mod.

Hm.. I thought programmable remotes just record IR frequencies. Didn't think there would be IR remotes cannot be copied...
In any case, my opinion is that with a complicated machine and difficult user interface like the polaroid, it's unlikely you will find any universal remote that will work better than the original remote (other than the signal strength part). I think you'll be better off doing the simple LED mod.

I will second that! It is much cheeper to put in a powerful (blue) LED that really works well than trying to program a more expensive universal remote. I love the way the remote works after the LED swap.

Now, a different question. I copied a program from a SD channel with input signal via cable into the Polaroid tuner. The tuner automatically set the channels at initial setup. THe copied picture on the HDD seems to have a fine diamond checkered pattern . The I noticed that the same can be seen on quite a few of the other channels using the tuner as input for viewing even without HDD recording. Is that a channel fine tuning issue? I did that and seemed to help. My cable service is Cox in my area. THe same channels clearly DO NOT have that pattern when I view the channels via the cablebox provided by cox. Anyone has similar experience???

I have not had that experience. How are you getting the cable to the Polaroid? Is it through the cable box or are you splitting the cable before the cable box and then taking it directly to the Polaroid?

I took the plunge on this thing and it looks like it will record stuff that is macrovision protected. However, I can't get any audio out of any of the inputs except the tuner RF IN input. Any idea why? I get the picture on each input that I have something connected to it but no audio.

Are you using the audio input as well? The red/white analog on the back panel?

I got the sound problem fixed. I have way too many wires behind my TV.

Now the bad news. I cannot record to the hard disk from a Magnavox, Toshiba or a Samsung DVD Player using a regular DVD. I'm going to try an Apex and Sony DVD Player next. I was able to record a copy-protected ReplayTV Movie that I had downloaded from someone else's ReplayTV that I cannot record to anything else. I'm also going to try and copy a movie from my MovieBeam too then next time I use it.

I got the sound problem fixed. I have way too many wires behind my TV.

Now the bad news. I cannot record to the hard disk from a Magnavox, Toshiba or a Samsung DVD Player using a regular DVD. I'm going to try an Apex and Sony DVD Player next. I was able to record a copy-protected ReplayTV Movie that I had downloaded from someone else's ReplayTV that I cannot record to anything else. I'm also going to try and copy a movie from my MovieBeam too then next time I use it.

This was my experience:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=8580836&&#post8580836

I've had no trouble with Samsung or Toshiba. I have not tried Magnavox.

I picked up a "G" serial number today and was able to test a Toshiba successfully.

What store bought DVD are you using for a test?

I tried Family Man and Scarface and I know Scarface is not a Disney Studio Release. :)

The Magnavox is actually another DVD Recorder and the Toshiba is actually a DVD Player / TIVO. The Samsung DVD Player is the 841 model.

What does the serial number of your unit begin with? I wonder if the firmware guys have caught on.

What does the serial number of your unit begin with? I wonder if the firmware guys have caught on.

Both my APEX and Sony DVD Players don't work either. The serial number starts with G06001922.

I'm using the s-video input. Is it supposed to work with all inputs?

Are you getting a copy protection interrupt?

I'm using the s-video input. Is it supposed to work with all inputs?

THat has been my experience. Yes.

I just got a big box on the screen that says "Macrovision protect! Can't set archive point!". I can time shift it but I cannot archive to the hard disk. Every disk I put in, in every player, says "Protect" in the top right hand corner.

I got this unit directly from wal-mart.com this week.

I just got a big box on the screen that says "Macrovision protect! Can't set archive point!". I can time shift it but I cannot archive to the hard disk. Every disk I put in, in every player, says "Protect" in the top right hand corner.

I got this unit directly from wal-mart.com this week.

Here's my experience with Lord of the Rings (FOTR). Via S-Video. By the way I am not a proponent of illegal copying. I'm simply trying to show the anomolies of this machine.

I just got a big box on the screen that says "Macrovision protect! Can't set archive point!". I can time shift it but I cannot archive to the hard disk. Every disk I put in, in every player, says "Protect" in the top right hand corner.

I got this unit directly from wal-mart.com this week.

I have never seen what you describe. Give me a few minutes and I'll post what it should look like.

Mine doesn't do what yours does so I guess I'm screwed. Hopefully I have usability improvements / bug fixes in mine with the updated firmware that I must have.

Turn off the timeshift feature and you will be fine. Try it.

I did see what you mentioned with timeshift on.

You will be fine.

I see this with Disney and without the Philips 642.

Perhaps Polaroid closed the loop. I would have expected as much.

I turned the time shift off and I still have the same thing. I get the same result you get with the Disney Disc.

Same flick with the Philips 642 and Disney.

Did you order from online or purchase from a store?

I noticed that this recorder only has one audio input for both the component video and s-video input connections in the back of the unit; meaning you can only use one video input connection, or the other, but not both with the single analog audio in. That's a bummer. I wanted to hookup three separate devices using the two analog video input connections in the back and the one analog video connection in the front. No I can only hookup a grand total of two devices with this limitation.

Yes I agree with you. It is my no means "high end". You can use a switch box to route various inputs but that's as good as it gets. You get what you pay for I guess.

You are right. Biggest problem is the one audio input. Sucks.

Did you order from online or purchase from a store?

I ordered it direct from Wally World online on Tuesday and just got it today.

I ordered it direct from Wally World online on Tuesday and just got it today.

Play with it some more but I am guessing they may have closed the loops. I picked up a second one today with a G serial and it performs like the one I have had for a couple of months. Maybe this is why they are only available online now.

Once they sell out the store inventory it is over I guess.

edit - I should add that I had picked up two previously and the back panel was defective. I returned them. The jury is still out on longevity. But the one I have been playing with for a couple of months has been banged up pretty good with no problems.

I think they've "closed the loop" given all the different DVD players I've tried and discs. If you really think about it the same build date doesn't necessarily indicate that the firmware version will always be the same. The firmware is still not perfect though because it asks me if I want to stop recording from the DVD even though it's not actually recording (because of the copy-right protection) when I go to turn it off. :rolleyes:

I hooked up a Radio Shack video/audio switch editor to solve my lack of analog audio input problem. I really have no desire to make backup copies of DVD's anyway but it would have been a nice feature to have. I find it interesting that it was able to record a movie that I downloaded on my ReplayTV, and my Philips DVDR-72 was never able to do that because of copy-right protection. It will be interesting to see if I can record movies off of my MovieBeam that are copy-right protected too. I hardly watch any movies from MovieBeam though.

I think they've "closed the loop" given all the different DVD players I've tried and discs. If you really think about it the same build date doesn't necessarily indicate that the firmware version will always be the same. The firmware is still not perfect though because it asks me if I want to stop recording from the DVD even though it's not actually recording (because of the copy-right protection) when I go to turn it off. :rolleyes:

I hooked up a Radio Shack video/audio switch editor to solve my lack of analog audio input problem. I really have no desire to make backup copies of DVD's anyway but it would have been a nice feature to have. I find it interesting that it was able to record a movie that I downloaded on my ReplayTV, and my Philips DVDR-72 was never able to do that because of copy-right protection. It will be interesting to see if I can record movies off of my MovieBeam that are copy-right protected too. I hardly watch any movies from MovieBeam though.

I have no interest either. At least for burning copies. There are other ways if that is the interest.

This unit does allow for an external removable HDD so I do see some benefit to being able to copy my store bought DVD's to one of my HDD's. At least just to keep the kids happy without having to fumble with disc's. A remote is a lot easier. :)

New to this form.
I have read the post till my eyes fell out and I decided to get the Polaroid 2001G. Had it one day and have found it to be easy to operate, Mostly because of everyone on this form clearing up issues. I only have one problem and that is, I cannot get my motorola 6412 lll to pass through the polaroid when polaroid is off. I started out with the HD box connected to the DVD recorder with component in. The stb is set to 480I. I then hooked the box up to the recorder with an S video cable. Still no pass through when recorder is off.

The only other minor issue is putting my burned disk in my pc and authorizing them to a true DVD format.

New to this form.
I have read the post till my eyes fell out and I decided to get the Polaroid 2001G. Had it one day and have found it to be easy to operate, Mostly because of everyone on this form clearing up issues. I only have one problem and that is, I cannot get my motorola 6412 lll to pass through the polaroid when polaroid is off. I started out with the HD box connected to the DVD recorder with component in. The stb is set to 480I. I then hooked the box up to the recorder with an S video cable. Still no pass through when recorder is off.

The only other minor issue is putting my burned disk in my pc and authorizing them to a true DVD format.
Pass-thru only works when using the RF(cable) connector. Not S, or component video.

redjr...

Pass-thru only works when using the RF(cable) connector. Not S, or component video.

redjr...

This is wrong. One of the things I like about the Polaroid is that it can pass a 1080i signal with the unit off using component in/outputs. This has been mentioned many many times previously.

redjr - do you actually own one of these units? I'm curious because you've jumped in here before with stuff like this. Like I said just curious.

Firedog - not sure what your problem is. Are you able to use component out from the Polaroid to your display?

I just bought one... hooked it up w/ my TWC Hidef box yesterday, & I've been experimenting w/ recording to the HDD over the component.

I've had no problem, as Nextoo says; when the unit is off, I can get 1080i full screen passing through the component cables.

Firedog: Are you trying to go in through the component & then out through the S-video? Maybe the unit only maintains the signal path over the same connection (haven't tried this yet, just a thought).

Nextoo: I have hit one snag. I'm able to set my Motorolla to 480i output, & the 2001g records the HiDef channels, however when I do this the width is maintained but the picture is squashed vertically. I can then set the player (or my TV) to 4:3 to restore aspect ratio of course, but the end result is letterboxing on my widescreen. How are you setting this up to keep the full-screen widescreen recording? Am I missing something on the Motorolla box?

Thanks,
David

I just bought one... hooked it up w/ my TWC Hidef box yesterday, & I've been experimenting w/ recording to the HDD over the component.

I've had no problem, as Nextoo says; when the unit is off, I can get 1080i full screen passing through the component cables.

Firedog: Are you trying to go in through the component & then out through the S-video? Maybe the unit only maintains the signal path over the same connection (haven't tried this yet, just a thought).

Nextoo: I have hit one snag. I'm able to set my Motorolla to 480i output, & the 2001g records the HiDef channels, however when I do this the width is maintained but the picture is squashed vertically. I can then set the player (or my TV) to 4:3 to restore aspect ratio of course, but the end result is letterboxing on my widescreen. How are you setting this up to keep the full-screen widescreen recording? Am I missing something on the Motorolla box?

Thanks,
David

I have the SA8300HD cable box from TWC running passport software. What are you using?

Here's three posts with my experience with the in/outputs:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=8515868&&#post8515868

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=8516153&&#post8516153

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=8516759&&#post8516759

I am going from the stb into the polaroid with component and than out of the polaroid with components to tv. Also tryed S video out of stb into polaroid only. could not figure out how to set recorder to component in to automaticly default to component or S video.

I have the SA8300HD cable box from TWC running passport software. What are you using?

I've got the DCT5100/6200 - just the STB w/ HiDef service, no DVR or Passport. Maybe that's the difference? Hope not, I really don't want to upgrade again.

Can you run through the output settings on your cable box? 480i, what else? TV set to 16:9, any options for 4:3 override, etc? Also, I haven't tried recording to optical yet, just HDD.

I appreciate your patience & help!
David

I am going from the stb into the polaroid with component and than out of the polaroid with components to tv. Also tryed S video out of stb into polaroid only. could not figure out how to set recorder to component in to automaticly default to component or S video.

Pressing "Input" (upper right of remote) will cycle through available inputs. I don't know if you can "source lock" or set a default input...

I am going from the stb into the polaroid with component and than out of the polaroid with components to tv. Also tryed S video out of stb into polaroid only. could not figure out how to set recorder to component in to automaticly default to component or S video.

To set the default go to the setup menu/timeshift/. I set mine to Rsvideo/off which means when I turn the unit on the default is s-video on the back panel with the time shift buffer off. I use s-video as the default because if I have my cable box set at 1080i and I used component it scrambles the television screen. More of a safety/protection motivation. You can toggle the video inputs using the remote. The button right under the power button will toggle the inputs.

Thanks,
The other problem is getting the videos onto my computer so i can rip the music off of the videos. Any programs that do not cost alot?

I've got the DCT5100/6200 - just the STB w/ HiDef service, no DVR or Passport. Maybe that's the difference? Hope not, I really don't want to upgrade again.

Can you run through the output settings on your cable box? 480i, what else? TV set to 16:9, any options for 4:3 override, etc? Also, I haven't tried recording to optical yet, just HDD.

I appreciate your patience & help!
David

Output settings are 16x9/sidebar. I believe I am getting a proper picture because when viewing a HD channel when it is broadcasting wide screen content eveything looks good. When viewing a HD channel that is not broadcasting wide screen content the picture is surrounded with black bars. The picture appears in the center of the screen. Surrounded by black. Hope I am explaining this correctly.

edit - strike the last part of my comment. I think the channel that I was comparing was broadcasting letterbox material.

Nextoo: I have hit one snag. I'm able to set my Motorolla to 480i output, & the 2001g records the HiDef channels, however when I do this the width is maintained but the picture is squashed vertically. I can then set the player (or my TV) to 4:3 to restore aspect ratio of course, but the end result is letterboxing on my widescreen. How are you setting this up to keep the full-screen widescreen recording? Am I missing something on the Motorolla box?

Thanks,
David

You got me thinking about your vertical squashed comment. By this do you mean things look stretched north to south? With that in mind I did the following:

With the cable box set as I've mentioned (16x9 side bar) using component in/out of the Polaroid I toggled between the HD and SD broadcast of a football game. I noticed no difference in how images were depicted on the screen. I did not see any elongation or stretching or anything like that. There is more real estate left to right. By that I mean the score info bar is actually longer (wider).

When I set the cable box to 16x9/stretch the image when first toggled appears different. It is stretched left to right on the SD channel and images appear wide. If I set the aspect ratio to stretch while I'm viewing the HD channel the image actually looks like the stretched SD channel - stretched images left to right, shorter score bar along the top of the screen - until I toggle back and forth from the SD channel. Once I do that I'm back to what I would consider a perfect picture.

So with the cable box I'm using I believe I'm getting the correct widescreen aspect ratio - regardless of how it is set in the cable box.

I hope this makes sense. It can be confusing. If it's confusing let me know and I'll take another shot at it.

P.S. - I have my television set to "16x9" not "automatic" so I know it is not the television adjusting the image.

These pics may help:

480i to the Polaroid. 480p out to the television

1 - HD channel. Notice the width of the score bar. Look to the left of the NFL logo.

2 - SD sidebar. Again notice the score bar.

3 - SD stretch. Fills the screen but look at the score bar. Same as the SD sidebar and shorter than the HD.

Nextoo, thanks for the reply.

The pictures help, at least as a reference. Here's my setup:

I have a Samsung widescreen with viewing options of 16:9, 4:3 and Zoom. 4:3 puts pillar bars left & right, where Zoom would be the equivalent to "pan & scan" (crops left & right when in 4:3 mode). I've got it set to 16:9.

Cable component output options are 16:9/4:3letterbox/4.3pan&scan, also scan options for 1080i/720p/480p/480i, and then a "4:3 override" option that allows 480i, 480p or OFF.

I normally view in 16:9, 1080i, override OFF - HD channels display normal full screen, SD channels display proper aspect ratio (with pillar bars L&R). In this mode, I cannot monitor through the Polaroid at all when it is on, because even SD channels output 1080i aparently. If I set override to 480i, I can monitor SD channels through the Polaroid, but SD channels "stretch" to fill the widescreen.

When I set to screen 16:9/scan 480i/override any setting, SD channels stretch to fill the screen (this is fine, because the DVD recorder is essentially still getting the correct 480i info, & if I tell it to output to 4:3, it will pillar bar for correct aspect ratio). But the HD channels will "squash" (they will maintain proper width, but letterbox bars will appear top & bottom, & people will appear short & fat). It looks closest to your third picture, but I'm not losing L&R real estate, just the whole picture is shorter. Once again, I can restore proper aspect ratio on playback by selecting 4:3, but then I will have letterbox with pillar bars, which tells me I'm not getting all the resolution I can.

Hope that makes sense... I can try to post some pictures later (my son is watchng videos right now!).

Thanks again for your help.

I get exactly what you are explaining when I use the s-video and composite inputs. The bars you mention go away when I use component.

sivartk started a thread titled "it's all about the input - Wide Screen Recording" and it looks like that is what it may be here. I'd continue to try different setting combinations with the Motorola. Not having one makes it is difficult to recommend what they might be.

Let me know how I may help.

Thanks,
The other problem is getting the videos onto my computer so i can rip the music off of the videos. Any programs that do not cost alot?

Burn to DVD and then use DVD Decryter:

1) Make sure that DVD Decrypter is in IFO Mode. Under IFO settings, select to split by chapter.

2) After selecting the chapters you want to rip, click on the Stream Proccessing tab.

3) Enable Stream Proccessing.

4) Check the Audio stream box only. If there are multiple audio streams choose the one that only has two channels.

5) Now, highlight the checked audio stream and choose to Demux it.

6) Rip the DVD (audio stream) to your hard drive by clicking on the DVD to hard-drive icon.

7) If you are going to burn an audio CD, the files will need to be maximized and then downsampled to 44.1 KHz WAV. Use Goldwave in batch mode to do this.

New to this form.

The only other minor issue is putting my burned disk in my pc and authorizing them to a true DVD format.


This is very simple. I have authored dozens of discs from the Polaroid that will play in anything.

Just burn the disc and use Windows Explorer to copy the files into a work directory. You don't need to rip them with anything, just do a copy. Then use TMPGEnc DVD Author or another authoring program to open the DVD Video files (not "Open File" in TMPGEnc DVD Author) from the VIDEO_TS folder and Author away. You can even cut pieces of video out to make motion menus using DVD2AVI + TMPGEnc = MPEG (not TMPGEnc DVD Author, TMPGEnc is a separate program) or get stills out of the video. You can even mux in different sound with TMPGEnc. TMPGEnc DVD Author will even burn the disc for you when you are done.

One thing about the Polaroid is that it doesn't seem to use AC3, it uses MPEG audio so you can hear the audio during authoring without purchasing and AC3 codec. My Accurian uses AC3 so I don't hear audio during the authoring which is no big deal, it still gets processed.

Another important matter for compatibility is to use DVD-R for the final burn. Many people seem confused about the different formats. Most modern players will read anything up to DVD+RW (not DVD-RAM) which is essential for timeshifting to another location/player but ultimate compatibility comes from the DVD-R format.

This is wrong. One of the things I like about the Polaroid is that it can pass a 1080i signal with the unit off using component in/outputs. This has been mentioned many many times previously.

redjr - do you actually own one of these units? I'm curiIous because you've jumped in here before with stuff like this. Like I said just curious.

Firedog - not sure what your problem is. Are you able to use component out from the Polaroid to your display?
nextoo,

My apologizes. I was trying to recall something I thought I'd read from a previous post. My mistake. :( I don't have one of these units - yet. I am seriously looking at getting one, hence my lurking in the thread from time to time. I'll just keep my mouth shut from now on until I decide to get one and can offer some first-hand observations.

redjr... :)

nextoo,

My apologizes. I was trying to recall something I thought I'd read from a previous post. My mistake. :( I don't have one of these units - yet. I am seriously looking at getting one, hence my lurking in the thread from time to time. I'll just keep my mouth shut from now on until I decide to get one and can offer some first-hand observations.

redjr... :)

No need to keep quiet at all. Like I said I was just curious. Please don't let my question stop you from posting any questions, comments etc. Was just wondering that's all. Thanks!

I played around with this recorder over the weekend and I really like it. The newer version direct from Wal-Mart.com seems to be much more user friendly then what people have said in this thread. There is no loud fan and I haven't had any problems using it although there is a little bit of a learning curve, but really not much of one. The manual I got with my unit is the one you can download from online which is very easy to understand. You still must point the remote directly at it though for it to work. This is my 3rd DVD Recorder and the first one with a hard drive. Having a hard drive makes a world of a difference in that I can make sure my recordings are good before I burn them to disk. I definately won't be making as many coasters with this one. Once I record a 2 hour movie to the hard disk it takes about 20-25 minutes to burn it to a DVD. I've been using Imation Disks and they work in my Samsung 841 DVD Player but not my Toshiba HD-DVD Player. I'm going to try another type of blank disk tonight to see if it will work in my Toshiba HD-DVD Player.

I was at my local Wal-Mart and I was tempted to buy the one on the shelf to see if it could make backups of regular DVD's. I decided against it fearing I would get an older unit that may have all the issues people have complained about in this thread. I would much rather have a stable unit like I have then to have this feature.

I might have given it a try. If for nothing more than curiosity. Although I do not like returning things so that may have been a motivation as well.

I purchased an additional unit last week with a G serial and it performs as my original one does. I think I posted this previously.

Thanks to everyone for the help. I have been burning MTV videos to DVD+RW and than with a 30 day trial of DVD audio extractor to make mp3s than burning to cd. Great results.

Still can't get my STB to pass though the polaroid when it is off. I am running my motorola 6412 into the recorder and am getting great sound. Did a documetary of a fire dept from High Def and it played great with surround sound. Tuner may be mono but I am going through the HD box.

Again, thanks for the info.

Hi,

Does anybody knows how to change region 1 to 4 ?

Tks.
Marcelo

I know this is a standard European audio codec. Is it compatible on all DVD players? Is there any advantage to Dolby Digital over Mpeg?

MPEG-1 Audio Layer 2 (mp2) is part of the DVD Standard: http://www.videohelp.com/dvd#tech

As far as mp2 versus DD, I hear DD has higher quality for the same bitrate. But I don't know that for a fact.

MPEG-1 Audio Layer 2 (mp2) is part of the DVD Standard: http://www.videohelp.com/dvd#tech

As far as mp2 versus DD, I hear DD has higher quality for the same bitrate. But I don't know that for a fact.

Does it (Mpeg) support two channel surround sound like Pro-Logic, etc.? With DD 2 channel, I get very good surround performance from my Panasonic using the stereo input from my cable box on 5.1 channel material from HBO, Starz, etc.

I don't think so. So that could be another advantage of DD over mp2.

I suspect you can find that kind of information online via searching.

I don't think so. So that could be another advantage of DD over mp2.

I suspect you can find that kind of information online via searching.


Anyone else care to comment on this? i think this is very interesting for thos of us wishing to archive movies or shows that are originally broadcast in surround sound.

I can't get a movie of over 2 hours recorded to the HD in SP+ to record to DVD - I get a message about not enough remaining space on the DVD. Does not the DVD adjust its record quality to what's coming off the HD? If so, it makes this unit pretty useless to record to HD, then segment, then transfer to DVD anything over 2 hours.....

I can't get a movie of over 2 hours recorded to the HD in SP+ to record to DVD - I get a message about not enough remaining space on the DVD. Does not the DVD adjust its record quality to what's coming off the HD? If so, it makes this unit pretty useless to record to HD, then segment, then transfer to DVD anything over 2 hours.....

What is the quality of the "SP+" mode? Is this using high-speed mode?

It's a 2 1/2 hour mode. You CAN record direct to DVD in 1, 2, 2 1/2, 3, 4 or 6 hour mode... I'm just having trouble taking something recorded to HD in SP+ and moving it to DVD.

I can't get a movie of over 2 hours recorded to the HD in SP+ to record to DVD - I get a message about not enough remaining space on the DVD. Does not the DVD adjust its record quality to what's coming off the HD? If so, it makes this unit pretty useless to record to HD, then segment, then transfer to DVD anything over 2 hours.....


I just realized this myself. What's up with this??? I can't record a 4 hour show in EP mode on the hard drive in EP mode to a DVD?

I just realized this myself. What's up with this??? I can't record a 4 hour show in EP mode on the hard drive in EP mode to a DVD?

I have never had a problem with this when using any of the modes. I have been wrong sometimes in setting the right mode. For example recording something 2:20 in SP mode and not being able to transfer it.

I have never had a problem with this when using any of the modes. I have been wrong sometimes in setting the right mode. For example recording something 2:20 in SP mode and not being able to transfer it.

I tried everything this morning to get my 4 hour show on the Hard Disk Drive to record to a DVD, and it kept saying that there is not enough space to record to the DVD. I may just take mine back to the store then and try the one on the shelf that may have the older firmware if yours works okay. Once again the one with the latest firmware that has copyright protection enabled won't let me record anything from the hard drive to a DVD that is more then 2 hours long just like selder0's same problem.

My unit also shuts off just about every time I press the "Timeshift" button. I have to pull the power chord to get it to reset. Once I plug the power chord back in there is a real load noise for a few seconds too. The unit works fine after that.

I tried everything this morning to get my 4 hour show on the Hard Disk Drive to record to a DVD, and it kept saying that there is not enough space to record to the DVD. I may just take mine back to the store then and try the one on the shelf that may have the older firmware if yours works okay. Once again the one with the latest firmware that has copyright protection enabled won't let me record anything from the hard drive to a DVD that is more then 2 hours long just like selder0's same problem.

My unit also shuts off just about every time I press the "Timeshift" button. I have to pull the power chord to get it to reset. Once I plug the power chord back in there is a real load noise for a few seconds too. The unit works fine after that.

I would not be happy with that unit. Is the recording exactly 4 hours long? If so try cutting off 5 or 10 minutes and see what happens.

I would not be happy with that unit. Is the recording exactly 4 hours long? If so try cutting off 5 or 10 minutes and see what happens.

Is it possible that you have to also specify the recording format as SP+ when transferring to the DVD media?

I had an older Panasonic that you had to set the recording quality for the DVD no matter what quality it was on the hard drive. So, if it was EP in the hard drive, it still tried to do the disc at SP if that was your default setting.

I have this unit as well as the Philips.

With this unit everytime I record from HDD to DVD it also records from tuner or whatever to the HDD. Kind of funny.
Also is it true that you cannot edit a recorded clip like deleting a portion of the recording?

I think the Philips is a much better unit by all accounts. Bigger HDD, better editing, more users friendly such as showing it is actually recording on the panel or remaining time on HDD transfer to DVD. Philips has a better deinterlacer as well. Inside the philips it has separate boards for output stage and processing rather than one board for everything.
I think I will return the Polaroid.

I would not be happy with that unit. Is the recording exactly 4 hours long? If so try cutting off 5 or 10 minutes and see what happens.

How would you record a 4 hour EP Mode recording from your hard disk to a DVD? I just highlight the 4 hour EP Mode recording and click "record" and I get the error message that it's too long for the DVD even though the DVD is blank. I even went into setup and changed the default setting for the DVD recording mode to 4 hours and I still get the same message. Am I missing something?

How would you record a 4 hour EP Mode recording from your hard disk to a DVD? I just highlight the 4 hour EP Mode recording and click "record" and I get the error message that it's too long for the DVD even though the DVD is blank. I even went into setup and changed the default setting for the DVD recording mode to 4 hours and I still get the same message. Am I missing something?


EP is 3 hour mode. LP is 4 hour mode. Check page 21 of the manual.

I have this unit as well as the Philips.

With this unit everytime I record from HDD to DVD it also records from tuner or whatever to the HDD. Kind of funny.
Also is it true that you cannot edit a recorded clip like deleting a portion of the recording?

I think the Philips is a much better unit by all accounts. Bigger HDD, better editing, more users friendly such as showing it is actually recording on the panel or remaining time on HDD transfer to DVD. Philips has a better deinterlacer as well. Inside the philips it has separate boards for output stage and processing rather than one board for everything.
I think I will return the Polaroid.

I would love to go with the Phillips unit even though my older one, the DVDR-72 from Costco's, just died on me after minimal use over 2 years. The main reason I won't is the lack of component video input. I need three different inputs besides coaxial in order to record from all the devices on my TV, and yes I do have input switches.

Wait..not to get off topic, but I can take my DVDR-72 back to Costco's, right? Locating the receipt may be a problem though but wouldn't they have it in their system already?

EP is 3 hour mode. LP is 4 hour mode. Check page 21 of the manual.

I already did check the manual to be sure I had it right. But, as someone posted earlier in this thread, the two recording modes for 3 and 4 hour are switched around from what is said in the manual and what is reality on the unit. I even tried to record the longest recording mode to the DVD, 6 hours, and it still didn't work for my 4 hour recording.

Different strokes for different folks. All these recorders have obvious weaknesses and strengths. Maybe I can help on a couple of your observations:

I have this unit as well as the Philips.
With this unit everytime I record from HDD to DVD it also records from tuner or whatever to the HDD. Kind of funny.
You have the timeshift feature on. Some would actually consider this a plus.

Also is it true that you cannot edit a recorded clip like deleting a portion of the recording?
Sure you can. You can edit to your hearts content. The big weakness is that you cannot join clips. Same as with with the Philips. The editing features are essentially identical between the two units. Here's info from the manuals:

http://www.p4c.philips.com/files/d/dvdr3455h_37/dvdr3455h_37_dfu_aen.pdf

http://www.polaroid.com/media/com/text/products/petters/drm-2001g_fa37.pdf

I think the Philips is a much better unit by all accounts. Bigger HDD, better editing, more users friendly such as showing it is actually recording on the panel or remaining time on HDD transfer to DVD. Philips has a better deinterlacer as well. Inside the philips it has separate boards for output stage and processing rather than one board for everything.
I think I will return the Polaroid.
I'm sure the Philips is a great machine. But the two are very similiar. About 90% of what is in the Philips manual applies to the Polaroid and it is much better written!

I already did check the manual to be sure I had it right. But, as someone posted earlier in this thread, the two recording modes for 3 and 4 hour are switched around from what is said in the manual and what is reality on the unit. I even tried to record the longest recording mode to the DVD, 6 hours, and it still didn't work for my 4 hour recording.

Shows you what I know :eek: . I just grabbed the manual and thought it would help. You are right the manual is wrong. Like I said I never had the problem. Are you saying anything longer that 2 hours is a problem?

Shows you what I know :eek: . I just grabbed the manual and thought it would help. You are right the manual is wrong. Like I said I never had the problem. Are you saying anything longer that 2 hours is a problem?

YES! Just like someone else in this thread stated. I haven't tried HQ but I've burned a bunch at SP from the hard drive with no problems.

None of the two types of blanks disk I've tried (Verbatim and Generic) will work in my Toshiba A1 HD-DVD player either.

Different strokes for different folks. All these recorders have obvious weaknesses and strengths. Maybe I can help on a couple of your observations:


You have the timeshift feature on. Some would actually consider this a plus.


Sure you can. You can edit to your hearts content. The big weakness is that you cannot join clips. Same as with with the Philips. The editing features are essentially identical between the two units. Here's info from the manuals:

http://www.p4c.philips.com/files/d/dvdr3455h_37/dvdr3455h_37_dfu_aen.pdf

http://www.polaroid.com/media/com/text/products/petters/drm-2001g_fa37.pdf


I'm sure the Philips is a great machine. But the two are very similiar. About 90% of what is in the Philips manual applies to the Polaroid and it is much better written!

Thanks for the tips.
Operationally they are both the philips and Polaroid simillar.
To be fair one feature I like about Polaroid is recording from component and it records from an external source such as DVD player. It also records from commercial DVD's with copy protection but has to be 480i not 480p.

Thanks for the tips.
Operationally they are both the philips and Polaroid simillar.
To be fair one feature I like about Polaroid is recording from component and it records from an external source such as DVD player. It also records from commercial DVD's with copy protection but has to be 480i not 480p.

Always 480i regardless of the source. It like all other recorders will not accept a 480p signal. At least to the best of my knowledge.

YES! Just like someone else in this thread stated. I haven't tried HQ but I've burned a bunch at SP from the hard drive with no problems.

None of the two types of blanks disk I've tried (Verbatim and Generic) will work in my Toshiba A1 HD-DVD player either.

Ok here's what I did with a 2:30 recording in SP+.

2:30 no go - would not fit on the dvd disc
2:29 no go
2:28 no go
2:27 no go
2:26 no go
I then reseated the DVD disc (open and closed the drive).
2:25 fit

I then used the 2:25 and was able to add two one minute clips for a total of 2:27. Going to 2:28 was a no go.

I'm not sure if this is a Polaroid quirk or a media brand quirk. I'm guessing a Polaroid quirk. But I'm going to test other brands of media.

2:22 on a Philips +R
2:22 on a -RW

Ok here's what I did with a 2:30 recording in SP+.

2:30 no go - would not fit on the dvd disc
2:29 no go
2:28 no go
2:27 no go
2:26 no go
I then reseated the DVD disc (open and closed the drive).
2:25 fit

I then used the 2:25 and was able to add two one minute clips for a total of 2:27. Going to 2:28 was a no go.

I'm not sure if this is a Polaroid quirk or a media brand quirk. I'm guessing a Polaroid quirk. But I'm going to test other brands of media.

2:22 on a Philips +R
2:22 on a -RW

I can't believe that we are the only ones to see or have this problem. We must be doing something wrong or our recorders have recently updated firmware with a bug.

YES! Just like someone else in this thread stated. I haven't tried HQ but I've burned a bunch at SP from the hard drive with no problems.

None of the two types of blanks disk I've tried (Verbatim and Generic) will work in my Toshiba A1 HD-DVD player either.

Did you finalize the discs? I have Toshiba and they work fine in them.

Oops I just noticed HD-Dvd player. I have no familiarity with them.

I can't believe that we are the only ones to see or have this problem. We must be doing something wrong or our recorders have recently updated firmware with a bug.

Not really. This may be as good as it gets. I usually trim the end of a recording so perhaps that is why I haven't noticed previously. Plus I am doing a lot less burning with my removeable HDD setup.

Thanks for the tips.
Operationally they are both the philips and Polaroid simillar.
To be fair one feature I like about Polaroid is recording from component and it records from an external source such as DVD player. It also records from commercial DVD's with copy protection but has to be 480i not 480p.
CaspianM

The Polaroid 2001G "G" build that I have, does not record from commercial DVDs played on external DVD players with either S-Video or component 480i input. Its shows copy protected material as it should. I have not experienced any "false positive" copy protection from cable with the 2001G as I have with Sony and Toshiba recorders. A few commercial DVDs do not have copy protection.

I find it makes much more sense operationally (to me) with the time sharing feature turned off. It does pass thru component input when turned off. The video recorded from component input and DV is pretty good.

Things I don't like about the 2001G are: VR only recording mode, mepeg audio (instead of AC3 dolby), no input video adjustments, ugly DVD menu created by 2001G, limited skip/jump speed options, and limited (no FR adjustable) recording speeds. The copy to DVD function takes about 20 minutes for a full DVD-R compared to about 8 minutes on my Pioneer 531H with 16X media. The 2001G is not in the same league (or price range) as the Panasonic or Pioneer HDD recorders.

I sampled a "D" build 2001G earlier and had a lot of problems with it. The "G" build seems to be a much improved solid machine, everything works as it should.

All that being said, its a good low end hdd recorder. Can't beat the price.

ymmv ;)

I'm able to get a few minutes ove 2:00 with SP.

It looks like SP+ is about 2:22 or 2:23 with my machine. I wonder what the other modes are. I'll have to remember this for when I am recording.

Not really. This may be as good as it gets. I usually trim the end of a recording so perhaps that is why I haven't noticed previously. Plus I am doing a lot less burning with my removeable HDD setup.


Every DVD recorder I've ever used in every available recording mode has always been able to record at least a few minutes longer than what it says it can do. I will try a few minutes less when I get home from work to see if it works. I'm almost positive though that I tried to record a 4 hour EP Mode recording from the hard drive using the 6 hour mode recording on a DVD and I got the same error. How do you change or check the DVD recording mode on the fly versus going into the setup menu and setting the DVD record mode there?

thanks to everyone on this thread. I went by my Wally World this morning before work and couldn't resist. It really came down to this unit and a Sony HX900 from E-bay. This thread and the neat things that the Polaroid is capable of actually threw it in the Polaroid's direction:
- HD passthrough
- upgradeable HDD
- chipset used
- all of the fan/remote, etc. tweaks

I really needed the component inputs to pair up with my SA8300, that's why i didn't look elsewhere.

CaspianM

The Polaroid 2001G "G" build that I have, does not record from commercial DVDs played on external DVD players with either S-Video or component 480i input. Its shows copy protected material as it should. I have not experienced any "false positive" copy protection from cable with the 2001G as I have with Sony and Toshiba recorders. A few commercial DVDs do not have copy protection.

I find it makes much more sense operationally (to me) with the time sharing feature turned off. It does pass thru component input when turned off. The video recorded from component input and DV is pretty good.

Things I don't like about the 2001G are: VR only recording mode, mepeg audio (instead of AC3 dolby), no input video adjustments, ugly DVD menu created by 2001G, limited skip/jump speed options, and limited (no FR adjustable) recording speeds. The copy to DVD function takes about 20 minutes for a full DVD-R compared to about 8 minutes on my Pioneer 531H with 16X media. The 2001G is not in the same league (or price range) as the Panasonic or Pioneer HDD recorders.

I sampled a "D" build 2001G earlier and had a lot of problems with it. The "G" build seems to be a much improved solid machine, everything works as it should.

All that being said, its a good low end hdd recorder. Can't beat the price.

ymmv ;)

I've had a different experience with my store bought DVDs that I've posted previously. It must be a firmware change. Also I was able to transfer in about the 10 minute range with a different DVD burner. A Sony burner (rebadged liteon) that I stuck in the Polaroid to test.

Yes I agree for the money it is pretty good. It is not in the same league as the Pio's and Panny's. But I really like the component input for recording widescreen HD stuff at 480i and the LSI domino chipset provides excellent video quality when recording. A real suprise for a unit at this price point.

edit - plus I plan on using it to feed widescreen to a Pio 640 I have on order.

The Polaroid 2001G "G" build that I have, does not record from commercial DVDs played on external DVD players with either S-Video or component 480i input. Its shows copy protected material as it should.
Ok, now this is pretty weird.... Something has changed in my 2001G, it now "seems" to be ignoring the copy protection on some of my commercial DVDs that it was respecting before??? After reading this forum, I tried a couple of different DVD players as input with both S-vide and compnent before and got the expected copy protection warninjg. Now, the same setup gives no warning???

Only thing that I know has changed, is that I've powered on/off enough times to get past the initial "foul language guardian" nag buy screen...

Also I was able to transfer in about the 10 minute range with a different DVD burner. A Sony burner (rebadged liteon) that I stuck in the Polaroid to test.
nextoo,
what model Lite-on burner would that be? Might be worthwhile.. ;)

It is a SONY DW-Q30A which I understand is manufacured by Lite0n. Info on the drive is here:

http://www.cdrinfo.com/Sections/Reviews/Specific.aspx?ArticleId=15850

The burner has DL capabilities and yes I tested a DL disc when it was installed in the Polaroid and no it did not work. Now that would have been nice! :(

I have one in a box if the Polaroid burner fails. The Sony provided 100% functionality with the Polaroid.

But now I may just install it. It burns from the HDD in about half the time. That's a nice benefit.

I also was able to install a BTC drive I had laying around. Search BTC or Sony in this thread and that should get you close to the original discussion. My opinion is that other burners will work as well. I had these two just laying around.

Every DVD recorder I've ever used in every available recording mode has always been able to record at least a few minutes longer than what it says it can do. I will try a few minutes less when I get home from work to see if it works. I'm almost positive though that I tried to record a 4 hour EP Mode recording from the hard drive using the 6 hour mode recording on a DVD and I got the same error. How do you change or check the DVD recording mode on the fly versus going into the setup menu and setting the DVD record mode there?

You toggle through the recording modes with the add/clear button on the remote. Also when you are looking at what is on the HDD it tells you what the recording mode was when it was recorded - below the thumbnail I believe.

Thanks. I was aware of how to do this for the hard disk and I wasn't sure if it was the same for DVD. I thought maybe you were supposed to press "DVD" before you press "add/clear" to change the DVD recording mode. I just wanted to be sure, so that I was doing it right to avoid getting the DVD space problem error that I get when I try to record recordings from the HDD that are 3 hours or longer.

I can't wait to get home and see if mine is able to make backups of copyright protected DVD's. I've already recycled the power a few times after it crashed.

thanks to everyone on this thread. I went by my Wally World this morning before work and couldn't resist. It really came down to this unit and a Sony HX900 from E-bay. This thread and the neat things that the Polaroid is capable of actually threw it in the Polaroid's direction:
- HD passthrough
- upgradeable HDD
- chipset used
- all of the fan/remote, etc. tweaks

I really needed the component inputs to pair up with my SA8300, that's why i didn't look elsewhere.

As far as the HDD upgrade goes I mention in this post that I am having some problems with a 500gb upgrade.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=8741464&&#post8741464

I haven't figured it out yet so I am staying with 250gb at least for the moment.

Thanks. I was aware of how to do this for the hard disk and I wasn't sure if it was the same for DVD. I thought maybe you were supposed to press "DVD" before you press "add/clear" to change the DVD recording mode. I just wanted to be sure, so that I was doing it right to avoid getting the DVD space problem error that I get when I try to record recordings from the HDD that are 3 hours or longer.

I can't wait to get home and see if mine is able to make backups of copyright protected DVD's. I've already recycled the power a few times after it crashed.

If it is crashing then you really need to exchange it. Is it properly ventilated?

If it is crashing then you really need to exchange it. Is it properly ventilated?

I probably should move it. I have one small stb below it and above it so I'll move it. I'm going to give it more of a chance because I hate returning things and I want the latest firmware if I can get around the little quirks it has right now.

Just called polaroid support to ask why I could not have my STB run into the recorder and have the recorder off and be able to get my STB to pass through it. I was told that it can not pass a signal through the recorder when it is off. Plus I asked why I could only get military time on the front display and was told that is how it was made.

I have the B- feb model

I have read that with the stb hooked up into the recorder with component cables and my high def box set to 480I it would pass through when recorder is off.

Any help would be great

Just called polaroid support to ask why I could not have my STB run into the recorder and have the recorder off and be able to get my STB to pass through it. I was told that it can not pass a signal through the recorder when it is off. Plus I asked why I could only get military time on the front display and was told that is how it was made.

I have the B- feb model

I have read that with the stb hooked up into the recorder with component cables and my high def box set to 480I it would pass through when recorder is off.

Any help would be great

This has been my experience:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=8516759&&#post8516759

The last sentence is with the Polaroid off.

The Polaroid support people are right about the clock and wrong about the pass through. At least with the two I have. You do need to use the component out of the Polaroid. At least that's how I remember it.

Does your B unit have a fan grill on the pack panel?

yes it does have a fan grill on the back panel.

Just called polaroid support to ask why I could not have my STB run into the recorder and have the recorder off and be able to get my STB to pass through it. I was told that it can not pass a signal through the recorder when it is off. Plus I asked why I could only get military time on the front display and was told that is how it was made.

I have the B- feb model

I have read that with the stb hooked up into the recorder with component cables and my high def box set to 480I it would pass through when recorder is off.

Any help would be great

I have a Dish VIP622 connected to the Polaroid via component.

With the Polaroid off, it passes through 1080i... that is, the VIP622 is set at 1080i 16x9 and all looks great.... even HD.

When I turn the Polaroid on, I get scrambled output and have to change the VIP622 to 480i.

It seems everything I've read here said that this is possible and I know mine works fine.

I have read that with the stb hooked up into the recorder with component cables and my high def box set to 480I it would pass through when recorder is off.

My experiance is that with the Polaroid off.... I can pass through 480i or 1080i via component. Only when you have the Polaroid on... you must change the output of the STB to 480i.

Side note: I also set my Harmony remote to change the VIP622 settings to 480i when the Polaroid is turned on and back to 1080i when it is turned off. :) The HD recordings from the VIP622 recorded in HQ look great on the Polaroid. (HD recordings on VIP622 played back through component at 480i to the Polaroid) Not HD but seriously good.

Ron

Great tip about the remote. I have mine set up to default to s-video. But I do have a remote that can handle macros. I'm going to give it a try. Thanks!

Great tip about the remote. I have mine set up to default to s-video. But I do have a remote that can handle macros. I'm going to give it a try. Thanks!

Yeah, I tried the s-video too... but even my untrained eyes could see a better pic through component.... I think. :)

It seems that someone else, ( different forum) was using s-video from Dish box so that he could connect the componet out of the Dish box directly to his TV. (All Dish box's outputs are hot at the same time). That way he could watch HD via component and record to the DVDR at the same time via the s-video outputs.

I only use the Polaroid to off load content from the Dish box, so I dont need to be watching it as it does it's thing. So for me, component works best.

I have another Polaroid hooked up via s-vid from a SD Dish box going to a 32 inch tv to handle SD needs.

Ron

Yes of course component. I can see the improvement on my setup versus s-video.

What I meant was I set the default to s-video in case I forget to set the STB to 480i before I turn on the Polaroid. I then make sure the STB is set to 480i and then I change the input on the Polaroid to component.

I don't like the looks of that scrambled screen at 1080i over component. My s-video feed from the STB only outputs 480i regardless of what the STB is set at. Even when set at 1080i it still outputs 480i over s-video.

I don't like the looks of that scrambled screen at 1080i over component. My s-video feed from the STB only outputs 480i regardless of what the STB is set at. Even when set at 1080i it still outputs 480i over s-video.

Ok, I see. Been there, done that. Irritating to turn on the Polaroid and then remember that you have to set the input to 480i. I actually had the Dish buttons memorized in my head (and there's like 10 steps) from doing that so many times. :)

I just got my Harmony 720... so it took awhile for me brain to think, "Hey I can program this to do this for me. Now it works great, plus the added feature of using the Harmony to control the Polaroid. I've had a few remotes in my time, and that Polaroid takes the prize as all time worst. :)

Ron

My recorder still has Macrovision enabled even though I've reset it many times. Also, I lowered my 4 hour recording on the hard drive to 3 hours and 55 minutes and I was then able to burn it to a DVD using EP mode.

My recorder still has Macrovision enabled even though I've reset it many times. Also, I lowered my 4 hour recording on the hard drive to 3 hours and 55 minutes and I was then able to burn it to a DVD using EP mode.
Not all players and not all discs work. What player(s) and disc(s) are you trying?

Yes it looks like recording modes above SP are 5 or so minutes short. It is probably the result of how the bit rate determination has been implemented.

edit - implementated? I really am an idiot.

Not all players and not all discs work. What player(s) and disc(s) are you trying?

Yes it looks like recording modes above SP are 5 or so minutes short. It is probably the result of how the bit rate determination has been implementated.

I only tried a Samsung 841 DVD Player and about 3 disks from 3 different movie studios none of which were Disney.

I only tried a Samsung 841 DVD Player and about 3 disks from 3 different movie studios none of which were Disney.

Next time you see a sale I'd pick up one of the $25 players. You may be suprised at the results.

Next time you see a sale I'd pick up one of the $25 players. You may be suprised at the results.

The Samsung 841 works good for me because you can hack it to upscale regular DVD's to 1080I resolution over the component video connection. I paid less then $60 for it off Ubid about a year or so ago.

I was able to record Nip Tuck Season 1 on DVD through this recorder without copy-right protection. I have a bunch of other DVD Players I can try but I'm too lazy to try and set them all up to see if they work or not. I just spent 4+ hours re-hooking up all my STB's to my TV last Sunday. This is a picture of my diagram:

www.pro-mold.com/tvsetup.pdf (http://www.pro-mold.com/tvsetup.pdf).

I have one of the better remotes and have not done the led update but when I set up a Sony VL-600 remote to operate the Polaroid I noticed the same thing. Things now seem to dance around the screen. Even when naming a title for example. The cursor now moves quickly around the on screen keyboard. I read similiar comments from those using Harmony remotes. Moving away from the poor remote, regardless of the strategy is a huge improvement.

I've got the VL-600 and am very pleased with it so far, but I can't figure out the component code for the Polaroid 2001G. Did you figure this out or did you have to "learn" all the codes?

Thanks.

I've got the VL-600 and am very pleased with it so far, but I can't figure out the component code for the Polaroid 2001G. Did you figure this out or did you have to "learn" all the codes?

Thanks.

I used the learning function. I also could not find a single code.

The Samsung 841 works good for me because you can hack it to upscale regular DVD's to 1080I resolution over the component video connection. I paid less then $60 for it off Ubid about a year or so ago.

I was able to record Nip Tuck Season 1 on DVD through this recorder without copy-right protection. I have a bunch of other DVD Players I can try but I'm too lazy to try and set them all up to see if they work or not. I just spent 4+ hours re-hooking up all my STB's to my TV last Sunday. This is a picture of my diagram:

www.pro-mold.com/tvsetup.pdf (http://www.pro-mold.com/tvsetup.pdf).

Very nice setup. You could try another player by using the front inputs of the Polaroid. I've done this before and it's not very disruptive.

Very nice setup. You could try another player by using the front inputs of the Polaroid. I've done this before and it's not very disruptive.

That's true. I just have no room to set anything anywhere with all the other stuff that I have on top of my TV.

I just figured out last night that I can record movies from my MovieBeam STB without the copyright protection error. I was not able to do that with my other recorder. My girlfriend has a Phillips DVD Player I want to try, but it's not the same model that you've gotten to work to avoid the copyright protection error. Maybe I'll place a bid on eBay for the model that you have or find it somewhere else cheap online.

What letter(for month produced) should I be looking for to not have to deal with the loud fan noise and other issues I have read about?

OK, I got this unit hooked up. Worked great playing DVD's good pic quality. However, I am now having an issue. One reason I got this recorder was the pass through ability. I have my Scientific Atlanta (8300HD) running into my Polaroid with component cables. I have component cables out to my TV with the Polaroid set to interlaced (480). I set the 8300 to 480i and I get no pass through with the Polaroid off, just a blank screen. With the unit on it works fine. I did not hook audio up for now at all. Is there something I need to be aware of in the setup screens to make sure the passthrough works? This is an important thing to me.

By the way. Does this unit come back to RF input everytime it is swithched off?

What letter(for month produced) should I be looking for to not have to deal with the loud fan noise and other issues I have read about?


I was at Walmart yesterday, just to look at them once again.... the unit they had on display and plugged in started with the letter "B." It most certainly had the fan issue. The units they had for sale started with "E" and "F" (June & July).... wonder if they have issues or not?

I was at Walmart yesterday, just to look at them once again.... the unit they had on display and plugged in started with the letter "B." It most certainly had the fan issue. The units they had for sale started with "E" and "F" (June & July).... wonder if they have issues or not?

I have been fine with F and G. There are really only two issues and a possible third not mentioned yet. None should be deal killers.

The first is the fan. I believe if you find one with an E/F/G the fan issue should be fixed. The ones with the quiet fans have no fan grills on the back panel or bottom of the unit. I think the quiet ones have internal fans with no grills.

Second is the remote. They were hit or miss early on but my guess is that they are better with the later models. F/G's. The G I purchaced recently had a good remote.

Lastly is something new. I have moved the HDD out of the case. When using the external drive enclosure I really noticed the original 80GB drive that came with the Polaroid. It had to be mounted perfectly in order to eliminate vibration. Sounded like a small air conditioner in the drive case until I silenced it by mounting it properly. THe HDD's in the newer builds are different. Although still a WD 80GB I noticed the label was different. So this may be something to be aware of.

By the way I am becoming more convinced there is only one firmware version for the Polaroid.

OK, I got this unit hooked up. Worked great playing DVD's good pic quality. However, I am now having an issue. One reason I got this recorder was the pass through ability. I have my Scientific Atlanta (8300HD) running into my Polaroid with component cables. I have component cables out to my TV with the Polaroid set to interlaced (480). I set the 8300 to 480i and I get no pass through with the Polaroid off, just a blank screen. With the unit on it works fine. I did not hook audio up for now at all. Is there something I need to be aware of in the setup screens to make sure the passthrough works? This is an important thing to me.

By the way. Does this unit come back to RF input everytime it is swithched off?


OK I thought I had solved the problem by going to the setup mode and selecting the YUV as the default input for timeshift. Still no passthrough although now it defaults to the YUV input when turned on. One down, one to go. By the way, this is a "B" unit and the fan is somewhat loud, but the remote is fine.

OK I thought I had solved the problem by going to the setup mode and selecting the YUV as the default input for timeshift. Still no passthrough although now it defaults to the YUV input when turned on. One down, one to go. By the way, this is a "B" unit and the fan is somewhat loud, but the remote is fine.

Strange. So you are connecting your source to the Polaroind's inputs and then out of the Polaroid via component right? My experience is that pass through only works when using component out of the Polaroid.

Now a foolish question. You are leaving the source (cable/sat/etc box) powered on right?