Strange. So you are connecting your source to the Polaroind's inputs and then out of the Polaroid via component right? My experience is that pass through only works when using component out of the Polaroid.

Now a foolish question. You are leaving the source (cable/sat/etc box) powered on right?

Yes. As I stated, I have the cable box at 480i and the Polaroid at 480i. THe only cables connected to and from the Polaroid are component. I may go back and get a different unit to try. Having to have my family remember to always turn on the DVD recorder to watch TV is not an option for them. I could handle it, but they can't.

Note about my recorder not passing through when off.
I had a B06 model with the fan on the back. Took it back today because I saw that wally world had the H06 model in stock. Got home and hooked up component only (3 cables) and it passed through automatically. The remote seems better also. With my STB set at 1080I, I still need to have the S-video hooked up.

With my motorola 6412, the non High Def channels have always been a little fuzzy. My cable company said that it was a drawback to the stb. Now with my new recorder letting the stb pass through, The channels are a lot clearer. It must be because of the LSI chip. I am glad that I took the B06 model back.

Strange. My experience is that pass through only works when using component out of the Polaroid.

Hmmm.... I have two of these Polaroids.

One is completely set up with component in and out. (Dish Network - Polaroid - TV) I get pass through with 1080i or 480i when the Polaroid is off.

The other Polaroid is completely set up with s-video in and out. (Dish Network - Polaroid - TV). I can only push 480i from this Dish box, but I get a signal to the tv with the Polaroid off.

Am I missing something? Nextoo, your comment about pass through only with Component? Maybe I dont know the correct meaning of pass through? I thought it was the ability to bypass the Polaroid with the original signal when the Polaroid is off.

Ron

Hmmm.... I have two of these Polaroids.

One is completely set up with component in and out. (Dish Network - Polaroid - TV) I get pass through with 1080i or 480i when the Polaroid is off.

The other Polaroid is completely set up with s-video in and out. (Dish Network - Polaroid - TV). I can only push 480i from this Dish box, but I get a signal to the tv with the Polaroid off.

Am I missing something? Nextoo, your comment about pass through only with Component? Maybe I dont know the correct meaning of pass through? I thought it was the ability to bypass the Polaroid with the original signal when the Polaroid is off.

Ron

I think this is what everyone refers to. I am going back to Wally's and get another unit tonight.

I am going back to Wally's and get another unit tonight.

Yes, I agree... Something not right with the one you have.

Ron

Hmmm.... I have two of these Polaroids.

One is completely set up with component in and out. (Dish Network - Polaroid - TV) I get pass through with 1080i or 480i when the Polaroid is off.

The other Polaroid is completely set up with s-video in and out. (Dish Network - Polaroid - TV). I can only push 480i from this Dish box, but I get a signal to the tv with the Polaroid off.

Am I missing something? Nextoo, your comment about pass through only with Component? Maybe I dont know the correct meaning of pass through? I thought it was the ability to bypass the Polaroid with the original signal when the Polaroid is off.

Ron

I just tested it and I am as well. I was wrong. It has been a while since I was doing all of the plugging and unplugging so I was obviously confused. Thanks for letting me know!

edit - I think I know where my confusion may have come from. I've been playing around with widescreen and the Polaroid will pass widescreen via component output from my SA8300HD then out of the Polaroid to another DVD recorder via s-video. In order to do this the Polaroid has to be powered up.

But in reality there are a lot of things this thing can do so it does get confusing.

I just tested it and I am as well. I was wrong. It has been a while since I was doing all of the plugging and unplugging so I was obviously confused. Thanks for letting me know!

No problem at all... I am very new to all this, so just making sure I understand correctly.

I think I'm lucky getting two of these with no problems... yet :)

btw, dont all these type of recorders "pass through" when off? Or maybe it's the "1080i pass through when off" that some recorders dont do?

Ron

Yeah i'm getting a bit confused. I just edited my previous post.

I don't think very many other recorders do the pass through. None of my others do. Are there others that do it? I don't really know.

I used the learning function. I also could not find a single code.

That's too bad. I imagine it will take me a while to learn this whole remote to the universal.

Thanks for the info!

I don't think very many other recorders do the pass through. None of my others do. Are there others that do it? I don't really know.

Ok, now that I think about it... it seems that that was one of the cool things about this one.


Ron

That's too bad. I imagine it will take me a while to learn this whole remote to the universal.

Thanks for the info!

It really doesn't take that long. You just need to figure out where to put some of the odd buttons like add/clear. I used the dot (.) to the left of the number 0 for that.

I went to a different Wal-mart closer to my home and picked up another unit. This one's serial # starts with "C". It does not pass the 480i signal from the cable box when off. Could this be something in the setup fields that I have wrong?

I went to a different Wal-mart closer to my home and picked up another unit. This one's serial # starts with "C". It does not pass the 480i signal from the cable box when off. Could this be something in the setup fields that I have wrong?

It could be. You should be able to pass 1080i with the Polaroid off. At least that has been my experience as well as the experience of others. Look at firedog's most recent post. He had problems with a B unit and pass through so I assumed that was your problem as well.

When I brought my second unit home today, all I did was plug my STB into the recorder with component and out of recorder with components to tv. I set my recorder to component in and with my STBset to 1080I, it was scrambled when I turned the recorder on. BUT with the recorder off from the get go, it passed through. To get the 1080I to work with recorder on, I had to hook up the S-video from STB to recorder and then set recorder to s-video timeshift off. It is my guess is that the C unit is not fixed yet. I had a hard time finding any recorders in stock. When to two different walmarts several time and at first all Icould get was the B unit. Just todat the other store got the H in.

When I brought my second unit home today, all I did was plug my STB into the recorder with component and out of recorder with components to tv. I set my recorder to component in and with my STBset to 1080I, it was scrambled when I turned the recorder on. BUT with the recorder off from the get go, it passed through. To get the 1080I to work with recorder on, I had to hook up the S-video from STB to recorder and then set recorder to s-video timeshift off. It is my guess is that the C unit is not fixed yet. I had a hard time finding any recorders in stock. When to two different walmarts several time and at first all Icould get was the B unit. Just todat the other store got the H in.

Well here's what I do. I always set my default to s-video. This is because if my STB is set to 1080i and I turn on the Polaroid I get the scrambled screen and I don't like what it might be doing to my television. But I record everything to the Polaroid via component. I just make sure I adjust the STB to 480i and then toggle to the component input on the Polaroid.

Although I also have an s-video connection from the STB to the Polaroid it is not really necessary. If the default is set to s-video and there is no s-video input you just get a black screen when you power up the Polaroid.

Nextoo
Good idea, will give it a try.

Just todat the other store got the H in.

This is interesting.

I noticed yesterday that Wally World online no longer states "online only" for purchase. And now with an "H" production date in the stores it tells me that there may be more on the way for retail purchases.

Have you tried to record a personal store bought DVD to your "H" model for back up (fair use) purposes?

No, have no need to try that. old school on that.

Old here school here too. It is more of a storage issue to me than a copy issue. With my removable drive strategy I can envision setting up a HDD that is "everything Star Trek" or something like that. Not that I'm into Star Trek but it might require a quick fair use back up. And then store my purchased DVD safely away.

edit - plus most of it has been on broadcast or cable before so I'm thinking it is less of a big deal that I thought.

My reason for getting a recorder is for recording documentaries. I am a history channel junkie. and tapes are so yesterday plus cost a buck each. I am spoiled with recording to a hard drive with my high def box.
By reading these post I was able to learn everything I needed without the instructions. This could be the way around not reading instructions. Next I will need a GPS so I will not have to ask directions on a trip.

The HD Discovery Channel rules. History Channel is a close second. Well maybe a tie. ;)

edit - actually don't discount PBS - no commercials. :eek:

Nextoo and others:

-What is the serial number (first three digits) of the units you have that do the passthrough?

-What are the different fan types that different models have?

-What types and models of fans would quiet these in your experience if I were to replace one?

The pic quality is so good on these, I am at least keeping two. I can barely tell the difference between 1080i direct to the TV and 480i through these and out to the TV at 480P. I want to start tinkering with at least one of the units to see what can be done.

Nextoo and others:


The pic quality is so good on these, I am at least keeping two. I can barely tell the difference between 1080i direct to the TV and 480i through these and out to the TV at 480P. I want to start tinkering with at least one of the units to see what can be done.

Really? I bought one back in May, and between the fan noise and poor picture quality, I took it back. I had it hooked up from my DISH 811 cable box to the Polaroid via S-video, then to the 37" LCD via component. The picture was so bad my wife made me take it back. Replaced it with an RCA model w/o the hard drive that connected via HDMI and it looked 10x better.


I had an early production model, but it appears that these things have been updated. I have been toying with the idea of getting another. Since they appear to be available online again, I'm wondering if there has been a 3rd update that has tackled some of the copy-protection issues. Hmmm.... might be worth getting before the "loop is closed." A running theme throughout this thread (and I've read all of it) appears to be that there has been an improvement in this unit since it was first released last Spring. I may be making a trip to Walmart soon.

CR

Really? I bought one back in May, and between the fan noise and poor picture quality, I took it back. I had it hooked up from my DISH 811 cable box to the Polaroid via S-video, then to the 37" LCD via component. The picture was so bad my wife made me take it back. Replaced it with an RCA model w/o the hard drive that connected via HDMI and it looked 10x better.


I had an early production model, but it appears that these things have been updated. I have been toying with the idea of getting another. Since they appear to be available online again, I'm wondering if there has been a 3rd update that has tackled some of the copy-protection issues. Hmmm.... might be worth getting before the "loop is closed." A running theme throughout this thread (and I've read all of it) appears to be that there has been an improvement in this unit since it was first released last Spring. I may be making a trip to Walmart soon.

CR

I can't use s-video with the Sci-Atl cable box and get a widescreen picture. However, this does have excellent picture quality through component, that's for sure. If I can find one that'll pass through the 1080i signal when off, I would have an acceptable recorder here. I also love to tear things apart and put them back together and this one seems to be the one to tinker with.

I can tell you that this would not be the first unit I ever had that had excellent quality on one input but so-so on another though. I had the first Panny hard drive dvd recorder HS2 I believe and it only had s-vid and composite inputs. The s-video did great, but the composite suffered miserably from green push. And, that was on an input not an output. Very interesting.

I have tried the recorded DVDs from this unit on a Sony Bravia 40", a 30" Philips LCD, a Panny 50" plasma and the Panny AE900 projector in my theater. Video quality was great on every dvd player I tried as well. I am now tinkering with sound to make sure the Mpeg audio passes surround sound. If so, I am getting at least two of these. I just need one to be able to do the passthrough and I'm A-OK.

Interesting comments here about PQ.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=7671266&&#post7671266

It's from an early poster and it seems to be the majority opinion.

Serial numbers for mine are F0600...and G0600. All features I've reported over the past couple of months are available in both.

Nextoo and others:

-What is the serial number (first three digits) of the units you have that do the passthrough?

-What are the different fan types that different models have?

-What types and models of fans would quiet these in your experience if I were to replace one?

The pic quality is so good on these, I am at least keeping two. I can barely tell the difference between 1080i direct to the TV and 480i through these and out to the TV at 480P. I want to start tinkering with at least one of the units to see what can be done.

I posted my serial numbers above. I think there are 3 fan types. The newer ones have the internal fans with no exterior grill. I have heard of two others. One with the fan grill on the back panel and one with the fan grill on the bottom of the unit.

It has been reported that it is relatively easy to quiet the fan if it is a problem. A rubber washer or something similiar used where the fan mounts to the case works well (rubber washer or anything similiar that will absorb and dampen any vibration).

The loud fan issue seems not to be mentioned much lately. It was a common post back in the May/June timeframe.

Interesting comments here about PQ.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=7671266&&#post7671266

It's from an early poster and it seems to be the majority opinion.

Serial numbers for mine are F0600...and G0600. All features I've reported over the past couple of months are available in both.

Oh, I don't doubt it. Unfortunately my DISH 811 will not output 480i over component, so that leaves me with the S-video out to the DVD recorder. From there I went via component to my 37" Olevia. It really did look horrible. It may be more a TV issue than a DVD recorder issue though. If memory serves me correctly, the recordings on the Polaroid were great on a normal CRT.

When I connect my Dish 811 to the RCA recorder via S-video then on to the LCD via HDMI, it noticably improves the PQ with SD broadcasts and especially HD broadcasts.

I have no explanation on why the image is so much better via HDMI than component, but I noticed the same thing on the RCA when it was hooked up via component. Obviously a TV issue........ I may buy this Polaroid for it's upgradability (thanks Nextoo!) and price/performance ratio.

CR

Chris Ruhl - sounds like your set up will be tough to beat.

I think you point out something that is important. That is that everybody has different combinations of gear. For example different combinations of televisions, cables, cable lengths, cable boxes, cable companies, sat companies, analog feeds, digital feeds, HD feeds, etc, etc.

The best course of action is to do what works. And check out comments on this forum every now and then to see if there may be a chance of improvement.

Hi...just bought my Polaroid Thursday and so far, thanks to all your posts, I luv it. I have the FEB 06 model.

Has anyone come up with a way (besides taping over it, which I have already done) of pulling the plug on that annoying POWER LED? I can't believe they did this in reverse.

Also, has anyone found or heard of any new FIRMWARE for this baby?

Thanks in advance!

I spent plenty of time with the unit today and I am still very surprised. Notes for everyone interested.

I hate the menus the unit inserts on the disc. I alleveiated this by recording my program to DVD+RW and then re-authoring on the computer. This allowed me to cut the menu altogether. I also was able to edit the recording much easier on the computer than on the unit itself, although it was not as problematic as I thought based on other's comments.

A note about color. This may be why the component input looks so good. The colors were every bit as vibrant as a commerically made dvd.

The stereo MPeg sound does carry surround info. I recorded a movie from Showtime and was able to get plenty of surround effects using my receiver's prologicII mode (yea!).

The picture quality is very very good, but not as great as a commercial dvd- it is just a micron softer, still my family thought it was great.

I took apart one unit and got ahold of the fan grill on the back of the unit with a dremel tool and cut out most of it. The sound is not noise, but just a boatload of air that the fan moves. By opening up more of the grill, there is as much air, but less sound.

I am now just scouting around until I find one that will pass through the component with the unit off. Until then, great purchase.

More to come.....

With my motorola 6412, the non High Def channels have always been a little fuzzy. My cable company said that it was a drawback to the stb. Now with my new recorder letting the stb pass through, The channels are a lot clearer. It must be because of the LSI chip. I am glad that I took the B06 model back.

I had the 6412 as well. The 2-99 channels had some PQ issues (presumably because of the analog-to-digital conversion) until they switched to all-digital broadcast (ADS) which improved them and they take up half the space.

I had the 6412 as well. The 2-99 channels had some PQ issues (presumably because of the analog-to-digital conversion) until they switched to all-digital broadcast (ADS) which improved them and they take up half the space.

Are you guys saying that this is the case even with the Polaroid off? I have definitely noticed a difference with the unit on, but if it does it also when off, wow.


I have to keep trying to find a unit that passes through when off. I am going today to another Wal-Mart near my work.

Another interesting copy protection tid bit. Same opinion about CP I mention in previous posts apply.

I've posted in another thread that I record widscreen HD content at 480i into the Polaroid component inputs from my HD cable box. This allows for full screen recording. I went a step further and fed the s-video output of the Polaroid into a Toshiba R5 recorder that I have to see if the Toshiba would record in full widescreen via this s-video connection. It worked and I thought that was great. Now every recorder I have can record in full widescreen via s-video input by putting the Polaroid between the cable box and the recorder. I saw no real loss in PQ by passing the signal through the Polaroid this way.

Well I thought I would run this setup through a store bought DVD disc test. The Toshiba's are known for false positives for copy protection. I thought I would use a recorder brand known for being sensitive.

Well this setup produced results identical to the experiences I have posted previously in every way. Using the Philips 642 all the discs I tested were able to be recorded by the Toshiba. When using another player the Toshiba could copy everything I tested except for the Disney release I mention in previous posts.

edit - for this to work the Poloroid has to be powered on. When powered off the Polaroid will still pass through the signal but the CP of the Toshibe kicks in.

Another interesting copy protection tid bit. Same opinion about CP I mention in previous posts apply.

I've posted in another thread that I record widscreen HD content at 480i into the Polaroid component inputs from my HD cable box. This allows for full screen recording. I went a step further and fed the s-video output of the Polaroid into a Toshiba R5 recorder that I have to see if the Toshiba would record in full widescreen via this s-video connection. It worked and I thought that was great. Now every recorder I have can record in full widescreen via s-video input by putting the Polaroid between the cable box and the recorder. I saw no real loss in PQ by passing the signal through the Polaroid this way.

Well I thought I would run this setup through a store bought DVD disc test. The Toshiba's are known for false positives for copy protection. I thought I would use a recorder brand known for being sensitive.

Well this setup produced results identical to the experiences I have posted previously in every way. Using the Philips 642 all the discs I tested were able to be recorded by the Toshiba. When using another player the Toshiba could copy everything I tested except for the Disney release I mention in previous posts.

edit - for this to work the Poloroid has to be powered on. When powered off the Polaroid will still pass through the signal but the CP of the Toshibe kicks in.

Probably another reason to snatch these up. No luck today, but I am still seeking out more Wal-Mart locations.

Last night I recorded "The Pit and the Pendulum" from HDNet Movies onto the HDD of the Polaroid. I moved the recording to a DVD+RW disc and used Nero to "Recode" the video and remove the junk at the beginning and end of the movie. I then burned this to a DVD-R on the computer and played it on my bedroom DVD player (RCA HD-DVD player) on my Philips LCD TV to verify it. My wife came by while I was doing so and said "High Definition really makes these old movies look great, doesn't it?" She then proceeds to sit down and watch the last 45 minutes of the movie- making at least a dozen comments about the colors and the sets, etc. I never told her that it was a regular SD DVD that I had recorded. Now, I am not saying this is the holy grail of DVD recorders, but it is my fifth or sixth (Panasonic, Philips, Magnavox, Toshiba, Humax). I never got any response like this before. There is definitely some magic going on. I am not sure how much is the Polaroid, the chipset, or the use of the component inputs, but I used the component inputs before on the magnavox recorder I had, and was not as impressed. I love reasonably priced products that outperform.....

I love reasonably priced products that outperform.....

I think this pretty much sums up my experience.

It has been a great few months for me - ripping apart the Polaroid and finding out what its capabilities are. Could there be more? Probably. :D

I think this pretty much sums up my experience.

It has been a great few months for me - ripping apart the Polaroid and finding out what its capabilities are. Could there be more? Probably. :D

I have started playing with the one already and I am seeking that "pasthrough" magic on another. I'll be keeping at least two to play with. ;)

I have copied several commercial DVD's through Polaroid's component input and never had any copy right issues so far. My source player is a one year old Sony DVD player.
The only down fall of the Polaroid seems its deinterlacer which cannot eliminate the jaggies when played progressive. It is a very good recorder though.

has anyone used the YesDVD to author a DVD on this recorder? Does it only work when recording directly to DVD and not fromt he HDD? I looked on the web site and this technology is very intriguing.

has anyone used the YesDVD to author a DVD on this recorder? Does it only work when recording directly to DVD and not fromt he HDD? I looked on the web site and this technology is very intriguing.

Only when recording directly to a DVD. I have not used the feature yet. Also I believe it is only when recording directly to an RW disc.

Stopped at another Wal-Mart today and found an "F" model on display. THere were no other boxed units around, so I asked and the lady went to the back and came back with two "C" models. I asked if I copuld buy the display model instead becaus it didn't have the fan on the back and she called a manager and allowed me to purchase the display. I'll see the difference tonight and report back...

By the way, if you are looking for one of these, you may want to ask. The sales clerk told me that they are often kept in back doe to theft issues. Shure enough, it seemed that none of the recorders over $200 had stock out in plain view.

Ok, the "F" model I bought does the passthrough trick. This to me is a gold mine. Also if I had known the fan was this much quieter on the latter models, I wouldn't have "modified" my other one. Heck, I may buy one more to keep in the closet for parts. :)

Ok, the "F" model I bought does the passthrough trick. This to me is a gold mine. Also if I had known the fan was this much quieter on the latter models, I wouldn't have "modified" my other one. Heck, I may buy one more to keep in the closet for parts. :)

Successssssssssss!!!! Great news.

An update that might be of interest:

I just added an AVT-3190 down-converter to my system (http://www.avtoolbox.com/avt3190.shtml). This box takes HD resolution signals and converts them to 480i. It has component-in, component-out and an HD pass-through. It also has selectable aspect ratio.

I've added this to the signal path between my cable box and my Polaroid, so: Cable box -> 3190 (downconverted) -> DRM2001 at 480i; and then cable box -> 3190 (pass-through) -> display at 1080.

I primarily did this to correct the aspect ratio problems my cable box had when outputting 480i over component (which the 3190 handles very nicely, out of the box), but the added benefit is that it lets me switch between the HiDef STB signal and the 480i DVD recorder output via my TV's 2 component inputs, without scrambling the picture or having to change the settings on the cable box when I want to record. (Also makes it easier to use the Polaroid as a Tivo.)

Now maybe I can finally teach my wife how to use the DVD recorder... :)

An update that might be of interest:

I just added an AVT-3190 down-converter to my system (http://www.avtoolbox.com/avt3190.shtml). This box takes HD resolution signals and converts them to 480i. It has component-in, component-out and an HD pass-through. It also has selectable aspect ratio.

I've added this to the signal path between my cable box and my Polaroid, so: Cable box -> 3190 (downconverted) -> DRM2001 at 480i; and then cable box -> 3190 (pass-through) -> display at 1080.

I primarily did this to correct the aspect ratio problems my cable box had when outputting 480i over component (which the 3190 handles very nicely, out of the box), but the added benefit is that it lets me switch between the HiDef STB signal and the 480i DVD recorder output via my TV's 2 component inputs, without scrambling the picture or having to change the settings on the cable box when I want to record. (Also makes it easier to use the Polaroid as a Tivo.)

Now maybe I can finally teach my wife how to use the DVD recorder... :)

The box looks interesting. I'm not quite sure I've completely figured it out yet but if it makes it easier to teach the wife I'll take two!!!!!

What was the cost?

Ok. I finally get it. I'm slow. You connect from your cable box through this device and it passes HD to your display but also will down res to the Polaroid. And then the Polaroid can go to your display on the second set of component inputs.

Yes it sounds wife proof.

Where can it be found? I see the link but no price or how to buy.

Unfortunately they're $500: https://secure17.nexternal.com/shared/StoreFront/default.asp?CS=avtoolbox&BusType=BtoC&Count1=661647975&Count2=578788399

This is the one that's been tossed around here as a not-so-cost-effective Component Video-to-S-Video converter. And of course it also downconverts to 480i, no doubt that's the tougher part, and what drives the price up.

$400 at B&H photo. Yes, the price made me think twice, but I think the convenience is worth it. The reasonable cost of the Polaroid offsets the investment somewhat, & now the DVD recorder is a true no-brainer replacement for our VCR.

Picture quality seems unaffected by the down-scaling (compared with the STB 480i), but I've just started playing with it.

($389.95 + shipping)

That's pricey. I want to sell them. :)

I set my cable box to 1080i and set the Polaroid default to s-video. This way the Polaroid passes through the 1080i when turned off and when turned on defaults to the s-video input which does not scramble the screen. When set to 1080i the cable box still outputs 480i via s-video and composite outputs.

If I want to record via component I just adjust the cable box down to 480i. If I want to record via s-video I'm good to go.

edit for better clarification.

I run component and s-video out of my cable box to the Polaroid. The default input (input when turned on) for the Polaroid is s-video. This way the Polaroid passes through the component video at 1080i to my HD TV when turned off. When turned on the Polaroid sees the s-video at 480i. If I want to record via component I adjust the cable box (usually the case) to 480i and the Polaroid input to component.

Great thread, my first posting.
I saw on a previous post that someone referred to an external hard drive.
Is that possible?
I love this machine!

Great thread, my first posting.
I saw on a previous post that someone referred to an external hard drive.
Is that possible?
I love this machine!

Here's a start:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=8651292&&#post8651292

And this thread too.

OK, now that I have both an older"B" and newer "F" model of this recorder, I decided to do some comparison for those of you reading this thread.

First, as already touched on, the fan is located on the back of the older model, it is internal on the newer model and I believe it vents out of the bottom. I believe the newer fan would normally be quieter. However, as I have related before, I took a dremel tool and opened the vents of my older model and it is much quieter than before and about the same as the newer unit. Also it is easy to feel how much air the fan is moving, which must help cool the unit internally.

As others have stated, the remote seems to work better on the newer model and I noticed the sensor on the front of the newer model is substantially bigger than the one on the older model. Results were the same with both remotes operating both units, so I believe the sensor on the unit itself has something to do with it.

The newer unit does pass through component video when turned off, the older two models (B and C) I tried would not. I have not had time to see if it will pass any other formats through directly, but since nextoo has said it will not, I am not in a hurry to try.

Although video quality is essentially identical as far as I can tell, I do perceive a slight difference on the new unit from when it is off to when it is on, even with the Polaroid set at interlaced 480i. I believe there is substantial difference between 480i and 480p on all of these units. If you have a high quality TV, IMHO you should set the Polaroid to 480i and let your display do the work. The scaler in the Polaroid is decent but not great. That being said, as others have reported, I can confirm that the picture quality of my SA 8300HD cable box (at 480i output) is worse than that same signal routed through the polaroid and to the TV- something happens internally in the Polaroids that cleans up the signal.

Hope this helps someone. This really is a great value.

OK, now that I have both an older"B" and newer "F" model of this recorder, I decided to do some comparison for those of you reading this thread.

First, as already touched on, the fan is located on the back of the older model, it is internal on the newer model and I believe it vents out of the bottom. I believe the newer fan would normally be quieter. However, as I have related before, I took a dremel tool and opened the vents of my older model and it is much quieter than before and about the same as the newer unit. Also it is easy to feel how much air the fan is moving, which must help cool the unit internally.

As others have stated, the remote seems to work better on the newer model and I noticed the sensor on the front of the newer model is substantially bigger than the one on the older model. Results were the same with both remotes operating both units, so I believe the sensor on the unit itself has something to do with it.

The newer unit does pass through component video when turned off, the older two models (B and C) I tried would not. I have not had time to see if it will pass any other formats through directly, but since nextoo has said it will not, I am not in a hurry to try.

Although video quality is essentially identical as far as I can tell, I do perceive a slight difference on the new unit from when it is off to when it is on, even with the Polaroid set at interlaced 480i. I believe there is substantial difference between 480i and 480p on all of these units. If you have a high quality TV, IMHO you should set the Polaroid to 480i and let your display do the work. The scaler in the Polaroid is decent but not great. That being said, as others have reported, I can confirm that the picture quality of my SA 8300HD cable box (at 480i output) is worse than that same signal routed through the polaroid and to the TV- something happens internally in the Polaroids that cleans up the signal.

Hope this helps someone. This really is a great value.

Great stuff. It will pass through all formats when powered off. If I said it would not then I was wrong. But in order to convert component to s-video in full widescreen the Polaroid has to be powered on. It also needs to be powered on to pass through its lack of CP capabilities.

edit - this unit has so many quirks (plusses) that it has become difficult to keep up.

Also - I agree on the PQ improvement when running 480i through the Polaroid (when it is powered off - ((or on for that matter)) versus just running 480i directly to my HD flat panel LCD.

You really can't makes this stuff up. I know it sounds crazy though. :confused:

Great stuff. It will pass through all formats when powered off. If I said it would not then I was wrong. But in order to convert component to s-video in full widescreen the Polaroid has to be powered on. It also needs to be powered on to pass through its lack of CP capabilities.

edit - this unit has so many quirks (plusses) that it has become difficult to keep up.

I stand corrected. I was looking at the component to s-video conversion part and made a poor assumption.

Also - I agree on the PQ improvement when running 480i through the Polaroid (when it is powered off - ((or on for that matter)) versus just running 480i directly to my HD flat panel LCD.

You really can't makes this stuff up. I know it sounds crazy though. :confused:

Actually, I was talking to a friend in the office about it a few minutes ago. His opinion is that it is simply amplifying the signal. Makes sense, it is plugged in and drawing some power even when off. Stronger signal=cleaner signal?

I stand corrected. I was looking at the component to s-video conversion part and made a poor assumption.

Yes needs to be powered on for that to work. I need to start writing some of this stuff down. I have said component only in the past and was wrong. :eek:

Actually, I was talking to a friend in the office about it a few minutes ago. His opinion is that it is simply amplifying the signal. Makes sense, it is plugged in and drawing some power even when off. Stronger signal=cleaner signal?

I really have no idea. But I'll take it. Makes sense though.

$400 at B&H photo. Yes, the price made me think twice, but I think the convenience is worth it. The reasonable cost of the Polaroid offsets the investment somewhat, & now the DVD recorder is a true no-brainer replacement for our VCR.

Picture quality seems unaffected by the down-scaling (compared with the STB 480i), but I've just started playing with it.

($389.95 + shipping)

Actually, that is a really cool tool. I took a good look at the back panel and the great thing about it is the HD passthrough. For those of us with an Scientific Atlanta HD cable box (which letterboxes all HD content on its s-video and composite outputs) and a Tivo, it would allow one to watch in full HD and record on the Tivo in widescreen (downconverted). Not bad, but probably not worth $400 (maybe $250). Based on nextoo's comments, you can do this with the Polaroid, but you must limit yourself to 480i if the Tivo is working. Confusing, eh?

Yes it looks like a very nice device. And yes when using the Polaroid via component input the SA8300HD has to be set at 480i. But that's ok. I typically do not watch while I am recording to the Polaroid. I usually switch to the TV's QAM tuner while its recording.

Here's a question:

The last unit I bought had an absolutely horrible picture on my Syntax Olevia 37" LCD when hooked up the following way:


Dish 811 box --> s-video --> Polaroid 2001G ---> component lines ---> TV

This was on a very early model that I purchased back in May 2006.


I am pretty sure that this was the fault of the TV and not the Polaroid. I ended up buying an RCA 8052 that connects up via HDMI and the picture was quite improved. (While waiting for the HDMI cable to arrive, I had the RCA hooked up via component - and the image suffered there as well.) So for some reason, 480i images through component are poor on my Olevia.

All the recent talk regarding the Polaroid has me thinking about buying it again. Any ideas on how I can get a better picture via 480i component? I wonder if I ran it through my RCA (hooked up via HDMI) if that would help? Maybe I'll have better luck with one of thenewer units......

Chris

$400 at B&H photo. Yes, the price made me think twice, but I think the convenience is worth it. The reasonable cost of the Polaroid offsets the investment somewhat, & now the DVD recorder is a true no-brainer replacement for our VCR.

Picture quality seems unaffected by the down-scaling (compared with the STB 480i), but I've just started playing with it.

($389.95 + shipping)

Momentary break from the polaroid discussion...

Question thebard: Since this unit doesn't have any audio ins and outs, does it introduce any delay into the chain that you can see? Some video converters take long enough to process the signal that if they do not have audio in and out so the unit can re-synch the audio, you can get delay, voices come and lips follow.

Now back to our regularly scheduled programming....

Based on nextoo's comments, you can do this with the Polaroid, but you must limit yourself to 480i if the Tivo is working.

You can if your cable box outputs full widescreen when set to 480i... mine does not. Even over component, it letterboxes the signal as soon as I switch to 480i, so the box was a necessary for me if I wanted to record anamorphic widescreen.

You can if your cable box outputs full widescreen when set to 480i... mine does not. Even over component, it letterboxes the signal as soon as I switch to 480i, so the box was a necessary for me if I wanted to record anamorphic widescreen.

Excellent point and probably makes the unit worth the price. What kind of cable box (manufacturer and cable company) do you use?

So, i tried to back up a commercial DVD last night. I got the CP message. :(

I have a G model, hooked up to a older model Pioneer DVD player. No go. Guess I need to go buy a known workable player.

So then I thought, hey my Xbox plays DVD's, I wonder if that would work. With the Polaroid off, it will pass through a signal like normal from the Xbox. However, when I turn the Polaroid on, it splits the picture into 2 separate, side by side pictures. ??

I dont think I will try the Xbox again... not too user friendly, but does anybody have a clue as to why it did the split picture thing?

Ron

So, i tried to back up a commercial DVD last night. I got the CP message. :(

I have a G model, hooked up to a older model Pioneer DVD player. No go. Guess I need to go buy a known workable player.

So then I thought, hey my Xbox plays DVD's, I wonder if that would work. With the Polaroid off, it will pass through a signal like normal from the Xbox. However, when I turn the Polaroid on, it splits the picture into 2 separate, side by side pictures. ??

I dont think I will try the Xbox again... not too user friendly, but does anybody have a clue as to why it did the split picture thing?

Ron

I'm guessing the xbox is outputting a progressive scan signal.

I'm guessing the xbox is outputting a progressive scan signal.

I got the same result by accidently setting my cable box to 480p instead of 480i. Can you imagine how many products get returned to BestBuy, etc. over stuff like that?

I'm guessing the xbox is outputting a progressive scan signal.


Ahhh... I bet your right. Not sure if the Xbox has the ability to change the output, but I will check it out. Would be cool to record some game play, plus the Xbox is coming out with a HD DVD add-on that may be interesting to try.

Ron

OK, question to all of you who have had this unit for a while:

Who keeps their unit on at all times? As of now, I have not been keeping the unit on always as it is connected to my HD DVR. So, I only turn it on when I want to record something from the DVR to DVD. I would assume the unit is built to stay always on as a DVR? I am thinking about using my second unit as a video converter between my cable box and my Tivo just for the purpose of getting true widesceen on my Tivo in my bedroom. This, however, will mean the unit must always stay on.

OK, question to all of you who have had this unit for a while:

Who keeps their unit on at all times? As of now, I have not been keeping the unit on always as it is connected to my HD DVR. So, I only turn it on when I want to record something from the DVR to DVD. I would assume the unit is built to stay always on as a DVR? I am thinking about using my second unit as a video converter between my cable box and my Tivo just for the purpose of getting true widesceen on my Tivo in my bedroom. This, however, will mean the unit must always stay on.

The one I am using is turned off when not in use. The one still in the box is always turned off. :D

Just make sure that if you leave it on 24/7 that you turn off the time shift buffer.

Okay, I picked up one of these at Wallyworld and I'm not having success. It is a "B" serial number. They had "G" units I think, but at the time I didn't know which were better.

Please note: my MAIN reason for wanting this unit is to record DVDs in anamorphic widescreen format from downrezzed HD on my STB. That's really what I want to do with this. The fact that it has a HD for editing and the passthrough feature is just gravy.

The problem: I set my STB (Comcast 3416) to 480i out, connected it to the Polaroid with component cables, then connected the Polaroid out to my projector via component. When I cycle the Polaroid input to component, the image is all scrambled. Note that the image isn't "doubled", like it would be with a progressive signal. I KNOW how to set my STB and I'm positive it's set to output 480i.

Three questions:

1) Am I missing a step that would cause this scrambling?

2) Will a "G" unit fix this problem?

3) If I can't get it to work with this one or a "G" unit, what other DVDR models will accept a component input from a Motorola STB and record anamorphic?


Thanks for any help.

Okay, I picked up one of these at Wallyworld and I'm not having success. It is a "B" serial number. They had "G" units I think, but at the time I didn't know which were better.

Please note: my MAIN reason for wanting this unit is to record DVDs in anamorphic widescreen format from downrezzed HD on my STB. That's really what I want to do with this. The fact that it has a HD for editing and the passthrough feature is just gravy.

The problem: I set my STB (Comcast 3416) to 480i out, connected it to the Polaroid with component cables, then connected the Polaroid out to my projector via component. When I cycle the Polaroid input to component, the image is all scrambled. Note that the image isn't "doubled", like it would be with a progressive signal. I KNOW how to set my STB and I'm positive it's set to output 480i.

Three questions:

1) Am I missing a step that would cause this scrambling?

2) Will a "G" unit fix this problem?

3) If I can't get it to work with this one or a "G" unit, what other DVDR models will accept a component input from a Motorola STB and record anamorphic?


Thanks for any help.

The only time I see what you are experiencing is when the source is not set to 480i. I would exchange it for the G model regardless and give it a try. If you are convinced you are in fact adjusted to 480i then it can only be the Polaroid.

Have you tried another source set at 480i into the Polaroid? For example a DVD player?

The only time I see what you are experiencing is when the source is not set to 480i. I would exchange it for the G model regardless and give it a try. If you are convinced you are in fact adjusted to 480i then it can only be the Polaroid.

Have you tried another source set at 480i into the Polaroid? For example a DVD player?
Weird thing. I tried your suggestion and the DVD player worked fine. I then switched back to the STB, and the picture's not scrambled anymore. I hadn't changed the settings on the STB, and before I tried the DVD, the info display on the projector screen said "480i" when fed directly from the STB.

But I'm still not where I need to be. The widescreen picture as seen by the Polaroid is not squeezed anamorphically. It's still putting black bars on the top and bottom. I have the STB set to 480i and 16:9 display, and the output of the Polaroid set to 16:9.

I even recorded a bit of HD to a disc and played it back on my regular DVD player to make sure it wasn't the Polaroid putting the black bars on it's output. No dice.

So: has anyone successfully record anamorphically to the Polaroid using a Motorola STB? If so, how?

You have to make sure the Polaroid input is set to component. If it is set to composite or s-video you will see the horizontal bars. Are you sure it is set to component in?

So: has anyone successfully record anamorphically to the Polaroid using a Motorola STB? If so, how?

I have the same setup as you... Comcast motorolla HD box & Polaroid DVDR. I hate to burst your bubble, but I could not get the motorolla to output a proper 16:9 aspect ratio at 480i. Whenever I switched to 480i, on ANY output (even component), it squeezed the picture as you described, with bars top & bottom (if you think about it, this will essentially result in a letterboxed image when played back at 4:3). I guess the folks at Motorolla assume that if anyone is outputting 480i, they must be going to VHS or something.

What I ended up doing was plunking $400 down on an AVT3190 scaler. It does the downconversion & also handles the full screen properly. I'm still evaluating it, but no problems so far.

Or you could contact Motorolla & see if they have any plans for a firmware correction in the near future...

The other issue, with the scrambling, is one I've noticed with the box as well. It sometimes "loses" the signal lock when you switch settings. Usually changing the channel fixes the problem.

David

Edit: Should note that Nextoo, above, is correct... his Motorolla box does the widescreen output properly, so it's not uniform across the brand... make sure you're using component out.

I have the same setup as you... Comcast motorolla HD box & Polaroid DVDR. I hate to burst your bubble, but I could not get the motorolla to output a proper 16:9 aspect ratio at 480i. Whenever I switched to 480i, on ANY output (even component), it squeezed the picture as you described, with bars top & bottom (if you think about it, this will essentially result in a letterboxed image when played back at 4:3). I guess the folks at Motorolla assume that if anyone is outputting 480i, they must be going to VHS or something.

What I ended up doing was plunking $400 down on an AVT3190 scaler. It does the downconversion & also handles the full screen properly. I'm still evaluating it, but no problems so far.

Or you could contact Motorolla & see if they have any plans for a firmware correction in the near future...

The other issue, with the scrambling, is one I've noticed with the box as well. It sometimes "loses" the signal lock when you switch settings. Usually changing the channel fixes the problem.

David

Edit: Should note that Nextoo, above, is correct... his Motorolla box does the widescreen output properly, so it's not uniform across the brand... make sure you're using component out.

It sure sounds like the Motorla box. Most everyone on this board uses a Scientific Atlanta box and it actually has two 480i settings, 480i standard and 480i widescreen.

I have the same setup as you... Comcast motorolla HD box & Polaroid DVDR. I hate to burst your bubble, but I could not get the motorolla to output a proper 16:9 aspect ratio at 480i. Whenever I switched to 480i, on ANY output (even component), it squeezed the picture as you described, with bars top & bottom (if you think about it, this will essentially result in a letterboxed image when played back at 4:3). I guess the folks at Motorolla assume that if anyone is outputting 480i, they must be going to VHS or something.

What I ended up doing was plunking $400 down on an AVT3190 scaler. It does the downconversion & also handles the full screen properly. I'm still evaluating it, but no problems so far.

Or you could contact Motorolla & see if they have any plans for a firmware correction in the near future...

The other issue, with the scrambling, is one I've noticed with the box as well. It sometimes "loses" the signal lock when you switch settings. Usually changing the channel fixes the problem.

David

Edit: Should note that Nextoo, above, is correct... his Motorolla box does the widescreen output properly, so it's not uniform across the brand... make sure you're using component out.

Actually I have the SA8300HD cable box. The device you purchased makes sense. I just wish they were more reasonable.

Most everyone on this board uses a Scientific Atlanta box and it actually has two 480i settings, 480i standard and 480i widescreen.

Lucky devils...

I have the same setup as you... Comcast motorolla HD box & Polaroid DVDR. I hate to burst your bubble, but I could not get the motorolla to output a proper 16:9 aspect ratio at 480i.
Yeah, I thought it might be the Motorola box but was hoping it wasn't.

Crap.

I'm definitely going return this one ("B" serial), but I don't know if I'll still get the "G" unit to replace it. The passthrough feature would be handy, but I know there are other models out there with better user interfaces.

Plus, I don't really "need" a unit with a hard drive. I really don't record that often, and it's not that important to me to edit out commercials and such. I already have 2 DVRs, so that's covered.

What to do...what to do...

Does anyone want to convince me that the passthrough feature is worth overcoming the horrible use interface? :)


Edit to add: I was definitely using component in - it was the ONLY input I was providing to the Polaroid.

Yeah, I thought it might be the Motorola box but was hoping it wasn't.

Crap.

I'm definitely going return this one ("C" serial), but I don't know if I'll still get the "G" unit to replace it. The passthrough feature would be handy, but I know there are other models out there with better user interfaces.

Plus, I don't really "need" a unit with a hard drive. I really don't record that often, and it's not that important to me to edit out commercials and such. I already have 2 DVRs, so that's covered.

What to do...what to do...

Does anyone want to convince me that the passthrough feature is worth overcoming the horrible use interface? :)


Edit to add: I was definitely using component in - it was the ONLY input I was providing to the Polaroid.

I would hold onto it & play around with it for awhile. Many folks here have grown to love the unit... it's kind of a "diamond in the rough". I mean, good picture quality, component input, and yeah, I use the passthrough, even though I have the downconverter... lets me monitor off the output to "preview" the recording quality before I fire it up.

Sure, some bugs here & there, but I think (so far) it's a good machine for the money.

Yeah, I thought it might be the Motorola box but was hoping it wasn't.

Crap.

I'm definitely going return this one ("B" serial), but I don't know if I'll still get the "G" unit to replace it. The passthrough feature would be handy, but I know there are other models out there with better user interfaces.

Plus, I don't really "need" a unit with a hard drive. I really don't record that often, and it's not that important to me to edit out commercials and such. I already have 2 DVRs, so that's covered.

What to do...what to do...

Does anyone want to convince me that the passthrough feature is worth overcoming the horrible use interface? :)


Edit to add: I was definitely using component in - it was the ONLY input I was providing to the Polaroid.

I don't need the hard drive either (it is connected to a DVR), but it was only a few dollars more for it. I actully like playing with the recording on the hard drive. As for the interface, after a week, i can use it as fast as i ever could my Panny or Philips models. In fact, it is evident that the Polaroid is at least a Philps knockoff, It has the exact same menus and the interface is about the same.

Well I returned the "B" unit I had tonight and got a "E" unit (that's all they had left).

As long as passthru works on this one I'll keep it.

Hooked it up - passthru works. Did a test burn and that was fine too.

Done, done, and done. :)

Hi,
Can someone confirm whether the E unit has the fan grill on the bottom (or at all?) I have an older B unit that has been crashing and the DVD drive is constantly locking up. I'm thinking of returning it for another unit, but the only one they have is an E.

I'm confused as to which serial number denotes which fix/condition, as it seems there have been quite a few. I imagine if I read through all 28 pages I'll come up with some answers, but was hoping someone might clear this up for me (& others) by posting a version letter & fix list?

Or does this info exist somewhere in another post? Any help is appreciated, Thanks!

Hi,
Can someone confirm whether the E unit has the fan grill on the bottom (or at all?) I have an older B unit that has been crashing and the DVD drive is constantly locking up. I'm thinking of returning it for another unit, but the only one they have is an E.

I'm confused as to which serial number denotes which fix/condition, as it seems there have been quite a few. I imagine if I read through all 28 pages I'll come up with some answers, but was hoping someone might clear this up for me (& others) by posting a version letter & fix list?

Or does this info exist somewhere in another post? Any help is appreciated, Thanks!

I can't say, but the F units do not have one at all, which I guess means the fan is internal. Has anyone opened one of these units up to see how the fan is mounted?

The B and C units have rear mounted fans and it the F and G units have the internal fan. I know some have a bottom fan, so it would make sense it is the D and E models (?).

Well, I went ahead and bought the E unit. It does not have a fan on the back, and the casing has all the same vents as my B unit had (sides and on the bottom). I can hear a fan inside it, but it doesn't appear to vent anywhere. I may take a closer look later with a flashlight into the vents. I'd be really curious to see where they relocated the fan to. Everything else seems fine with this one, and i's a LOT quieter.

Well, I went ahead and bought the E unit. It does not have a fan on the back, and the casing has all the same vents as my B unit had (sides and on the bottom). I can hear a fan inside it, but it doesn't appear to vent anywhere. I may take a closer look later with a flashlight into the vents. I'd be really curious to see where they relocated the fan to. Everything else seems fine with this one, and i's a LOT quieter.

Here's a pic of the case open. The fan is in the lower right hand corner. It's at a 45 degree angle.

Here's a pic of the case open. The fan is in the lower right hand corner. It's at a 45 degree angle.

Wow, so it really only moves air around. Interesting. Those with an older model could certainly open the case and reposition the fan I suppose. I'll try with my C model and let you all kow the reusuts.

I just purchased an "H" model at Walmart. Is this a good thing or a bad thing?

I just purchased an "H" model at Walmart. Is this a good thing or a bad thing?

I really have no idea. As the new ones emerge the best way is to give it a try and report what you find out. ;) Let us know!

I posted a month or so ago that I thought the Polaroid was coming to the end of its run because it was listed as "online only". Not so anymore. The new Wallyworld upgraded site now says available in many stores. I'm not sure what this means but I thought this change was worth noting.

Interesting. I bought another one last night after debating it for weeks. They had "F" and "E" models. I chose the "E" because I was wondering about the copy protection issue on the "G" model. I didn't know if the "F" would have it or not. Figured the slightly earlier model would be less likely to have it.

It looks like there is a fan base for this thing. I'd say probably the second most popular recorder (judged by activity) behind the Pio 640 on this board.

We should think about starting some kind of "sticky" or have a list of known issues with the different production dates. Just a thought.

My F and G perform the same with the same features and benefits. I think the CP comment about the G units was amended. Look here:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=8747656&&#post8747656

Ah, thanks for the link nextoo. I am experiencing the same CP block with my "E" model with a 480i component connection with an older Pioneer non-progressive player. Just an observation, I'm trying to figure out what this thing can and can't do. I'll play around and report back later.

Well, I've spent the weekend doing some test recordings. I've got my Comcast/Motorolla STB running into an AVT3190 downconverter, and then out to the Polaroid at 480i. Here is some of what I've run into, if anyone is curious:

- AVT3190 corrects aspect ratio, but does not pass widescreen flag information to DVD recorder's HDD... DVD players see the recorded signal as 4:3 and play back accordingly (pillar bars). This means I need to transfer recordings to PC to change the flag in IfoEdit for all widescreen content. Oddly enough, Polaroid plays back ALL material full screen when set to 16:9 (widescreen material plays back as recorded, but 4:3 material inputted from a widescreen-unaware source such as vhs plays back stretched to full screen).

- Pre-recorded VHS Macrovision info is passed to the Polaroid "F" series via composite (direct into the Polaroid), as the copy protection notice pops up.

- First attempts recording widescreen material to Polaroid resulted in images shifted slightly to the right (not noticeable on 23" LCD due to overscan, but amounted to about 1" of black space on the left side of a 90" projected image). Could be a positioning discrepancy in the AVT3190, but is not corrected with changes to positioning/overscan adjustments, which leads me to believe it's happening in the Polaroid.

- Chapter editing is only available on DVD+RW with the Polaroid (not on HDD), so I tried recording to HDD, editing out unwanted material, transfering to DVD+RW (& adding chapter info), copying to PC (& setting 16:9 flag), then burning a DVD-R. DVD+RWs also need to have the "make compatible" option set for chapters to be seen on my Panasonic player.

- Unfortunatley, the chapter markers in the resulting disc were offset for some reason... all points were pushed back several seconds! This may be a bug in the Polaroid unit, but could possibly be the fault of the software I used to burn the DVD; anyone else have this problem?

Looking forward to hearing more results from you all.
David

theBard - interesting stuff.

It sounds like the widescreen issue with your Motorola cable box is still a struggle. I'm happy I have the SA8300HD which is more a luck of the draw than anything else (cable company offering).

I don't think anybody has posted before about CP using a VHS source. New stuff. Thanks!

Not sure about the image shift with your projector. I haven't noticed any on a 37" LCD. I'd try it without the AVT box to confirm your suspicions.

I have not done any editing on the Polaroid except the split feature to trim off the end of recorded material. And I haven't even tried manually setting chapters so I can be of no help. Sorry bout that.

Again, interesting stuff. Thanks.

- Chapter editing is only available on DVD+RW with the Polaroid (not on HDD), so I tried recording to HDD, editing out unwanted material, transfering to DVD+RW (& adding chapter info), copying to PC (& setting 16:9 flag), then burning a DVD-R. DVD+RWs also need to have the "make compatible" option set for chapters to be seen on my Panasonic player.

I inserted and edited chapters with a DVD-R many times and no problems. I know the manual says that only +RW works, but that has not been my experience. I know others have also had no problems with -R.

The issue with exact setting of marks has also been addressed. You really cannot do it on the fly since you may be off, so you need to slow everything down and pause at the exact point you want to insert a chapter (or mark a segment beginning or end).

I inserted and edited chapters with a DVD-R many times and no problems. I know the manual says that only +RW works, but that has not been my experience. I know others have also had no problems with -R.

The issue with exact setting of marks has also been addressed. You really cannot do it on the fly since you may be off, so you need to slow everything down and pause at the exact point you want to insert a chapter (or mark a segment beginning or end).

Yes excellent advice. Use pause to edit. I do when splitting. It works great.

Also with editing I think it is importamt to either fix the remote (radio shack fix posted in this thread) or move to a universal. The Harmony has been recommended. I use a Sony VL-600 ($25 at Walleyworld). I can edit, rename, etc from 15 to 20ft with no problems. With a new approach to the remote the Polaroid springs to life.

Interesting post here about the tuner. Last post in the thread:

http://forum.videohelp.com/viewtopic.php?t=305350&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=90

An email response back from Polaroid claims the tuner is stereo. This matters less to me because I never record from the tuner (only a/v inputs) but for those that do it may be of interest.

I know the tuner was tested 5 or 6 months ago and it was determined to be mono but I wonder if perhaps it was one of the early production units.

My television reports the coax input running through the Polaroid as stereo but I always thought it was in error.

edit - unscientific test. Polaroid turned on. Using coax input to the Polaroid and coax output to the TV. MSNBC - TV reports mono. Turner Classic Movies - TV reports stereo. Same results with the Polaroid turned off.

I am going to try recording to a DVD and play it back and see what the TV reports.

Yes excellent advice. Use pause to edit. I do when splitting. It works great.

Also with editing I think it is importamt to either fix the remote (radio shack fix posted in this thread) or move to a universal. The Harmony has been recommended. I use a Sony VL-600 ($25 at Walleyworld). I can edit, rename, etc from 15 to 20ft with no problems. With a new approach to the remote the Polaroid springs to life.

Yes, I've been pausing to edit chapters... & it's working fine as long as I stick to the +RW made right on the unit. It's when I transfer on the PC that the offset slips in. So it should only be an issue when I record widescreen material, as I don't need to use IfoEdit on 4:3 stuff.

I'll have to try DVD-R editing... does this work the same, just transfer first & then go into edit mode on the disc menu?

Edit - To clarify:

Record to DVD+RW, edit chapters, "make compatible" - plays fine on my player.
Record to DVD+RW, edit chapters, "make compatible", create iso & burn to -R or +RW on PC - chapters are offset

So, possibly a software issue.

If I don't use "make compatible" at all, only segments & splits show up, not manual chapter edits.

I have the Dish Network ViP622 and just hooked up a Polaroid DRM-2001G recorder (H model). I have mine connected like this...622 to Polaroid via component.....Polaroid to TV via component. With Polaroid OFF I get passthrough to TV with 622 set to 480i or 1080i no problem. But when I turn the Polaroid ON....I get nothing. I hooked up composite from Polaroid to the TV and the TV makes new connection and I can get to the Polaroid menu and setup that way. DVDs play through here also. My question...why can I not see the menu, setup, dvds through the component connection?? The 622 is still set to 480i. Thanks!

I'm wondering something. I decided to try the Polaroid unit. They had the "D" model left. Well, when I got it home and quickly hooked it up I noticed that this one had the same problem that my Lite on has. Both of my Lite ons, as well as this model had a washed out, contrast waaaaay too high picture. If the contrast on the recorder goes to 10 Spinal Tap's Nigel Tufnel would say "this one goes to 11." The unit looks exactly like my Lite ons but with a hard drive in it. I don't have this washed out, over contrasted picture quality with my Pioneer's, or Panny. Just the LSI chiped Lite on and now this Polaroid.

I was wondering if anyone else gets this over contrasted, washed out, blown out picture? As if you have to turn your TV contrast way down just to get it to look normal. If not, could it be the chipset or maybe because it's a "D" model? Are things like video contrast levels, color levels, etc. fixed or refined in the newer and newest models? I'm wondering if I should take this back and try to get a new model or if that's just the way the picture contrast is seeing how it looks just like my Lite ons?

secretservices,

I can think of two possible causes:

1. The possibility that you have not selected the proper line input on your Polaroid for the component inputs, or,

2. The possibility that you may have the component connections reversed on the Polaroid. The 622 component output must connect to the Polaroid component input. The Polaroid component output must connect to the TV component input.

Since the Polaroid component input and output are directly connected to each other when the power is off, passthrough would work whether the connections are straight or reversed. But a reversed connection would deliver nothing to the TV when the Polaroid is powered up.

Good luck. Let us know how you finally resolve the problem.

secretservices - use the input button on the upper right hand side of the remote (below power button) to toggle through the inputs. This will allow you to get to the component input - assuming you have things hook up properly.

I'm wondering something. I decided to try the Polaroid unit. They had the "D" model left. Well, when I got it home and quickly hooked it up I noticed that this one had the same problem that my Lite on has. Both of my Lite ons, as well as this model had a washed out, contrast waaaaay too high picture. If the contrast on the recorder goes to 10 Spinal Tap's Nigel Tufnel would say "this one goes to 11." The unit looks exactly like my Lite ons but with a hard drive in it. I don't have this washed out, over contrasted picture quality with my Pioneer's, or Panny. Just the LSI chiped Lite on and now this Polaroid.

I was wondering if anyone else gets this over contrasted, washed out, blown out picture? As if you have to turn your TV contrast way down just to get it to look normal. If not, could it be the chipset or maybe because it's a "D" model? Are things like video contrast levels, color levels, etc. fixed or refined in the newer and newest models? I'm wondering if I should take this back and try to get a new model or if that's just the way the picture contrast is seeing how it looks just like my Lite ons?

You need to return or exchange it. One of the things that many have noted is the excellent PQ.

Ok...looks like I have it working through the component connection....but...only after connecting the INPUT....to the OUTPUT and vice versa. Is this a known issue? Thanks for the input guys!

Ok...looks like I have it working through the component connection....but...only after connecting the INPUT....to the OUTPUT and vice versa. Is this a known issue? Thanks for the input guys!

I think you just may have your interpretation of input/output backwards. No it is not a known issue. Great you have it working!

I'm wondering something. I decided to try the Polaroid unit. They had the "D" model left. Well, when I got it home and quickly hooked it up I noticed that this one had the same problem that my Lite on has. Both of my Lite ons, as well as this model had a washed out, contrast waaaaay too high picture. If the contrast on the recorder goes to 10 Spinal Tap's Nigel Tufnel would say "this one goes to 11." The unit looks exactly like my Lite ons but with a hard drive in it. I don't have this washed out, over contrasted picture quality with my Pioneer's, or Panny. Just the LSI chiped Lite on and now this Polaroid.

I was wondering if anyone else gets this over contrasted, washed out, blown out picture? As if you have to turn your TV contrast way down just to get it to look normal. If not, could it be the chipset or maybe because it's a "D" model? Are things like video contrast levels, color levels, etc. fixed or refined in the newer and newest models? I'm wondering if I should take this back and try to get a new model or if that's just the way the picture contrast is seeing how it looks just like my Lite ons?

Intesting. I was about to post the exact opposite of what you said. When I record through the Component inputs to a DVD or the HDD, I have noticed that the picture is actually darker by a bit than normal. In fact, I burned a dvd of a Star Trek Enterprise episode and noticed that contrast to be higher and the brightness lower than I see when I watch the episode routed through the Polaroid from the DVR. Anyone else using component ins notice thsi?

I have the Dish Network ViP622 and just hooked up a Polaroid DRM-2001G recorder (H model). I have mine connected like this...622 to Polaroid via component.....Polaroid to TV via component. With Polaroid OFF I get passthrough to TV with 622 set to 480i or 1080i no problem. But when I turn the Polaroid ON....I get nothing. I hooked up composite from Polaroid to the TV and the TV makes new connection and I can get to the Polaroid menu and setup that way. DVDs play through here also. My question...why can I not see the menu, setup, dvds through the component connection?? The 622 is still set to 480i. Thanks!

The Polaroid has a 480i/480p output option... If your display can't take progressive signals, maybe that's the problem? Set the Polaroid to 480i & see if that helps.

David

I have noticed that all my recordings from my STB are always darker after recorded.

Intesting. I was about to post the exact opposite of what you said. When I record through the Component inputs to a DVD or the HDD, I have noticed that the picture is actually darker by a bit than normal. In fact, I burned a dvd of a Star Trek Enterprise episode and noticed that contrast to be higher and the brightness lower than I see when I watch the episode routed through the Polaroid from the DVR. Anyone else using component ins notice thsi?

I notice what I would call blacker blacks when using component inputs. I prefer the component input to the s-video input when comparing PQ.

I have noticed that all my recordings from my STB are always darker after recorded.

I checked and I really can't tell a difference. I played something I had saved on my PVR and recorded it. I tried comparing the PVR versus the HDD Polaroid and could not really tell a difference.

I went back and checked a DVD that I made with my first unit (returned a while back) and it appeared a bit dark.

Do you mean HDD recordings, DVD recordings, or both?

After reading this thread I went and bought the Polaroid Recorder. It does passthrough when off but does anybody know how to get rid of the Macrovision? I bought the G model but my Walmart also had F and H models.

How are you running it? Are you running a separate DVD player into the component inputs at 480i? I've noticed it is very disk specific. Some pass, some don't.

Hmmmm, that's odd. Looks like most is getting a normal to darker picture than I am. Now, I found out that I can't use the RGB connection. I have an SD box not an HD box. So, I can't use the good connection. The picture is not bad, although it didn't look very sharp at all using the composite. I think the S-video line would be much sharper. Right now I'm using a Panasonic with the S-Video out of the cable box. One thing I noticed big time was when I recordered a sample from HBO with a dark seen the screen showed it blown out with contrast. Then, when I took the disk out and put it into another player I got the same blown out picture. It did record what it saw. It just records with a super high contrast level. Just like my Lite ons. My old 5007 looks like this Polaroid. My 5005 looks a little better than the Polaroid in contrast level and equal in picture quality.

Maybe it's because I have to use S-Video and Composite that I get high contrast levels? Maybe if I could use the Component it would look o.k.? Seeing how everyone else has good brightness and contrast levels I think I might take this "D" series back and try to find a new "G" or "H" or whatever new letter is out now if it comes back in stock and try again.

After all, if the quality and contrast levels look the same as my Lite ons then I might as well just use those for a while longer. Although I really loooooove to have the hard drive for editing. I think I might wait a little longer and try a newer version. Maybe they tweeked the settings a bit between a "D" and a newly made model? Who knows.

I am strongly leaning toward purchasing the polaroid unit based on feedback I got on the forum. Doing some research in this thread and confused as to what "G" "F" "H" units are.

Could someone please spare me the effort of reading through 29 pages?

Sul

I am strongly leaning toward purchasing the polaroid unit based on feedback I got on the forum. Doing some research in this thread and confused as to what "G" "F" "H" units are.

Could someone please spare me the effort of reading through 29 pages?

Sul


It's referring to the first letter in the serial number... earlier letters (A-B-C...) were released earlier in the year, later letters (up to H now, I think) are more recent.

Older editions seemed to have issues with the fan being too loud, newer ones may be more stringent on the copy protection... other differences as well.

I have a "G" model and as I've stated in a previous post that I get the copyright protection error when I try to record a commercial DVD to the hard disk. Here are the models of DVD Players I tried, none of which will let me make a copy of a commercial DVD:

Sony DVP-S360
Toshiba SD-H400 (Tivo/DVD Player)
Toshiba HD-A1 (HD-DVD player)
Magnavox MSR90D6 (DVD recorder)
Samsung DVD-HD841
Apex AD-1225

I'm torn between buying a older production model Polaroid, or buy a proven DVD player that nextoo uses like the Phillips 642 Player to get around the copyright protection error. Can anyone confirm for sure that the "E" model and earlier all lack copyright protection?

Also, the disks that I record in SP mode from the Polaroid Burner are not able to play in about 20% of the DVD Players that I put them in. I also was not able to play a 4 hour recorded DVD from the Polaroid on any of the DVD Players listed above. I can play a 4 hour DVD on the Polaroid but no where else. I'm using Verbatim disks. I've only recorded one 4 hour disk and the rest were 2 hour disks.

I have a "G" model and as I've stated in a previous post that I get the copyright protection error when I try to record a commercial DVD to the hard disk. Here are the models of DVD Players I tried, none of which will let me make a copy of a commercial DVD:

Sony DVP-S360
Toshiba SD-H400 (Tivo/DVD Player)
Toshiba HD-A1 (HD-DVD player)
Magnavox MSR90D6 (DVD recorder)
Samsung DVD-HD841
Apex AD-1225

I'm torn between buying a older production model Polaroid, or buy a proven DVD player that nextoo uses like the Phillips 642 Player to get around the copyright protection error. Can anyone confirm for sure that the "E" model and earlier all lack copyright protection?

Also, the disks that I record in SP mode from the Polaroid Burner are not able to play in about 20% of the DVD Players that I put them in. I also was not able to play a 4 hour recorded DVD from the Polaroid on any of the DVD Players listed above. I can play a 4 hour DVD on the Polaroid but no where else. I'm using Verbatim disks. I've only recorded one 4 hour disk and the rest were 2 hour disks.

I just bought an "E" unit last Saturday night.

Just as a short note: I purchased a 2001G back in May. Took it back after a week. The fan issue is still there, however it is only on (and loud) when the unit is powered on. Obviously not a problem if the TV is on. (The last unit I had - a "B" model -- the fan ran all the time; regardless if the unit was turned "on" or "off"). Remote still has issues. I am probably going to have to do the LED/Radio Shack swap on this thing.

Now to the rest of it:

First, let me start off by saying, these are all disks that I own. I am just trying to test out what this machine can and can't do. I have my older Pioneer DV-341 (480i) hooked up to the component inputs on the Polaroid.

I was playing around with different connections etc... I tried copying the original Spiderman to my HD. No go, I was getting the "Paused - Macrovision Protection" message. I thought "Well, that's that. Oh well." I was hoping to archive some series on my HD. Not a deal breaker by any means.

However, I then decided to try a couple of other disks that I own. Both "March of the Penguins" and "Pink Floyd's The Wall" went to the HD with no problems. I have not had the opportunity to try any others. It appears to be very disk specific.

So I have no explanation on why some commercial DVD movies can copy to the HD and others can not. Any ideas?

Regardless, I am keeping this one. I like it and it is a nice value for @$220.

Chris

Some more observations for those who are interested... Larrimore, I know you were inquiring about the AVT3190 in my setup:

Running HiDef over component, through the AVT3190 to provide 480i widescreen to the Polaroid component in, and using the AVT's HD bypass to send 1080i to my TV.

Started recording some SD content off my cable box this week, and boy let me tell you, I shouldn't have started with the HiDef, because now I'm SPOILED! The first thing I noticed was that, while the AVT box corrected the 16:9 aspect for HiDef signals, when recording SD, the "full screen" setting, the picture displayed properly and played back properly off the Polaroid, but other players squashed the picture side to side - in other words, the Polaroid recorded the pillar bars, and the other players played back the whole widescreen capture as 4:3.

I realized I could correct this by setting the 16:9 flag on each disc, but I would lose horizontal res to the black bars, so I opted to use the settings on the AVT3190, as it has a "pan&scan" setting that is essentially "stretch". As it happened, the show recorded was a rebroadcast of a show about Pluto I had recorded on VHS awhile ago on Science channel, so I could do a direct comparison.

So, the good: the AVT saved the aspect ratio yet again. This unit has some convenient image manipulation features, has been very useful in that regard. The bad: when using the stretch mode, "blocking" became very evident on the recorded SD picture, particularly in the vertical - looked like there were "stripes" running up&down the image. This was more noticeable in computer-generated scenes (maybe because these were space scenes, with lots of black background & sharp edges). I noticed this prior to recording, as the Polaroid has, I think, an exceptional output monitor - WYSIWYG - but I thought it might not be as noticeable with the aspect corrected. No such luck.

To really test PQ, I loaded the DVD & the original VHS of the show in a combo unit & played both out of the same composite output, & switched back & forth. The VHS did not have the blocking, but it had the typical video "smear" with the loss of edge definition. The VHS colors seems slightly more true-to-life. However, the audio was MUCH better on the DVD (digital off the cable feed). The further back I got from the screen, the closer in appearance the two pictures looked. I don't think I'd want to watch either at large scale.

At this point, I remembered the S-vid out on my cable box. I hooked this up directly into the Polaroid, and the signal's aspect ratio was correct for 4:3 without any processing. This is convenient, because the blocking (while still present) is not as noticeable as it is off the AVT, the signal is 480i without having to change my STB settings, and it's easier to change the Polaroid inputs than to mess with the AVT3190 settings.

So, to summarize:
- S-video directly into the Polaroid seems slightly better than component via the AVT3190 (for SD signal only - the AVT rocks with HD signal!).
- SD recordings with either method are about as cruddy as VHS (just cruddy in different ways).
- I really like high definition.

A side note: the AVT unit has some basic color/brightness adjustment onboard, which I've been playing with to match the incoming signal as much as possible.

Hope this helps someone,
David

Some more observations for those who are interested... Larrimore, I know you were inquiring about the AVT3190 in my setup:

Running HiDef over component, through the AVT3190 to provide 480i widescreen to the Polaroid component in, and using the AVT's HD bypass to send 1080i to my TV.

Started recording some SD content off my cable box this week, and boy let me tell you, I shouldn't have started with the HiDef, because now I'm SPOILED! The first thing I noticed was that, while the AVT box corrected the 16:9 aspect for HiDef signals, when recording SD, the "full screen" setting, the picture displayed properly and played back properly off the Polaroid, but other players squashed the picture side to side - in other words, the Polaroid recorded the pillar bars, and the other players played back the whole widescreen capture as 4:3.

I realized I could correct this by setting the 16:9 flag on each disc, but I would lose horizontal res to the black bars, so I opted to use the settings on the AVT3190, as it has a "pan&scan" setting that is essentially "stretch". As it happened, the show recorded was a rebroadcast of a show about Pluto I had recorded on VHS awhile ago on Science channel, so I could do a direct comparison.

So, the good: the AVT saved the aspect ratio yet again. This unit has some convenient image manipulation features, has been very useful in that regard. The bad: when using the stretch mode, "blocking" became very evident on the recorded SD picture, particularly in the vertical - looked like there were "stripes" running up&down the image. This was more noticeable in computer-generated scenes (maybe because these were space scenes, with lots of black background & sharp edges). I noticed this prior to recording, as the Polaroid has, I think, an exceptional output monitor - WYSIWYG - but I thought it might not be as noticeable with the aspect corrected. No such luck.

To really test PQ, I loaded the DVD & the original VHS of the show in a combo unit & played both out of the same composite output, & switched back & forth. The VHS did not have the blocking, but it had the typical video "smear" with the loss of edge definition. The VHS colors seems slightly more true-to-life. However, the audio was MUCH better on the DVD (digital off the cable feed). The further back I got from the screen, the closer in appearance the two pictures looked. I don't think I'd want to watch either at large scale.

At this point, I remembered the S-vid out on my cable box. I hooked this up directly into the Polaroid, and the signal's aspect ratio was correct for 4:3 without any processing. This is convenient, because the blocking (while still present) is not as noticeable as it is off the AVT, the signal is 480i without having to change my STB settings, and it's easier to change the Polaroid inputs than to mess with the AVT3190 settings.

So, to summarize:
- S-video directly into the Polaroid seems slightly better than component via the AVT3190 (for SD signal only - the AVT rocks with HD signal!).
- SD recordings with either method are about as cruddy as VHS (just cruddy in different ways).
- I really like high definition.

A side note: the AVT unit has some basic color/brightness adjustment onboard, which I've been playing with to match the incoming signal as much as possible.

Hope this helps someone,
David

Excellent information! I am really considering the AVT for my bedroom setup. Right now I am using a Polaroid there as well always on, just to feed the component signal (converted by the Polaroid to S-Video) into my Tivo so I can Tivo the HD channels in widescreen. The AVT sounds like a better solution even at the slightly higher pricetag.

Excellent information! I am really considering the AVT for my bedroom setup. Right now I am using a Polaroid there as well always on, just to feed the component signal (converted by the Polaroid to S-Video) into my Tivo so I can Tivo the HD channels in widescreen. The AVT sounds like a better solution even at the slightly higher pricetag.

Yes I agree. Great stuff from thebard.

Because my SA8300HD from TWC outputs full widescreen via component I am one the lucky ones. The WYSIWYG widescreen works for me with the Polaroid via component. The AVT3190 does sound like a great purchase though.

Hmmmmm....I disappear for a couple months because of a dead comp and then I find out about this. I assume this unit is unavailable in Canada? Haven't found any at Canadian B&M stores (Wal-Mart, Futureshop, Sears, Zellers, The Brick, etc.).

Any word on if the Symphonic unit at Wal-Mart Canada can do the same as this one? It too has an 80 Gig drive but only costs $150CAD. Might be worth a gander.....

Hmmmmm....I disappear for a couple months because of a dead comp and then I find out about this. I assume this unit is unavailable in Canada? Haven't found any at Canadian B&M stores (Wal-Mart, Futureshop, Sears, Zellers, The Brick, etc.).

Any word on if the Symphonic unit at Wal-Mart Canada can do the same as this one? It too has an 80 Gig drive but only costs $150CAD. Might be worth a gander.....

The symphonic web site lists -R & -RW support, the Polaroid supports +R & +RW as well. Also, I think most on this board are thrilled with the component in (yes, IN) on the Polaroid, which makes this an excellent unit for recording off HiDef boxes. Also great PQ considering the price.

The Symphonic may be a good unit... I'd be curious to find out what the chipset is.

To me the biggest selling point was the componet in. I can't figure out why other companies don't have this. Is simply gives a better picture than S-Video, and I don't care how good the recorder is, garbage in, garbage out, or in this case S-Video in, S-Video out. I really don't use the HDD that much, I have a DVR that is much easier and convenient to use, but it's still nice to have nonetheless. I'm happy with my Polaroid for recording, and my $50 Insignia upconverting player fro playback over HDMI. I compared a couple of movies recorded with the Polaroid from HD vs the same store bought DVD and I must be honest, it was pretty close. The purchased DVDs did look better, but it wasn't as huge as I was expecting. You do lose the Dolby though.

Hmmmmm....I disappear for a couple months because of a dead comp and then I find out about this. I assume this unit is unavailable in Canada? Haven't found any at Canadian B&M stores (Wal-Mart, Futureshop, Sears, Zellers, The Brick, etc.).

Any word on if the Symphonic unit at Wal-Mart Canada can do the same as this one? It too has an 80 Gig drive but only costs $150CAD. Might be worth a gander.....

Symphonic only allows you to record at one setting (SP). It is very limited in user adjustments.

I saw a few threads that this unit only record in VR mode to DVD-R.

Is that correct? No video mode at all? (Didn't see it in the users manual)

Isn't VR mode not as compatible?

I finally got tired of the increased fan noise and put a strip of an old inner tube between the fan mount and the chassis. Noise dropped dramatically.

The fan is noisy so anything you do to keep its vibrations from being amplified to the chassis reduces the noise.

I saw a few threads that this unit only record in VR mode to DVD-R.

Is that correct? No video mode at all? (Didn't see it in the users manual)

Isn't VR mode not as compatible?

Actually the opposite is true. It records to DVD only in video mode. Even with RW media.

I finally got tired of the increased fan noise and put a strip of an old inner tube between the fan mount and the chassis. Noise dropped dramatically.

The fan is noisy so anything you do to keep its vibrations from being amplified to the chassis reduces the noise.

Very ingenious. What production model do you have? Which letter?

I have the occasionaly "hang-up" (I thought) with the machine where I had to unplug in order to shut off and restart.
Since then I've had more patience since I was afraid of losing some editing, so I decided just to wait it out.
What I've found is: Whenever the machine starts to slow down in response to the remote I quit what I am doing as soon as possible and shut down. If it doesn't respond, I just wait. What I thought was a total hang-up seems to be just a slow response for some reason. Since I started doing this it always does the last action eventually. Then I shut down and start again rather than deal with the slow response. Although an annoyance, this has worked out better than working with the slow response time.

I have the occasionaly "hang-up" (I thought) with the machine where I had to unplug in order to shut off and restart.
Since then I've had more patience since I was afraid of losing some editing, so I decided just to wait it out.
What I've found is: Whenever the machine starts to slow down in response to the remote I quit what I am doing as soon as possible and shut down. If it doesn't respond, I just wait. What I thought was a total hang-up seems to be just a slow response for some reason. Since I started doing this it always does the last action eventually. Then I shut down and start again rather than deal with the slow response. Although an annoyance, this has worked out better than working with the slow response time.


Thanks for the post. I have not really had a similiar experience but good info. Couple of questions. Is the Polaroid properly vented - does it seem to run hot? Also do you know what month the build date is? i.e. what letter is it.

Thanks!

I have the occasionaly "hang-up" (I thought) with the machine where I had to unplug in order to shut off and restart.
Since then I've had more patience since I was afraid of losing some editing, so I decided just to wait it out.
What I've found is: Whenever the machine starts to slow down in response to the remote I quit what I am doing as soon as possible and shut down. If it doesn't respond, I just wait. What I thought was a total hang-up seems to be just a slow response for some reason. Since I started doing this it always does the last action eventually. Then I shut down and start again rather than deal with the slow response. Although an annoyance, this has worked out better than working with the slow response time.

I thought I had a hang up the first time I tried to "make compatible" a rewriteable disc... the progress bar ran up to 98% and then just stopped. But if, as you said, you just wait it out, it eventually completes the task.

Very ingenious. What production model do you have? Which letter?

G

Speaking of production models, I have been told by a Polaroid support person that the first letter of the serial number has NOTHING to do with the MONTH that the recorder was built. The letter DOES has to do with the production run of that model of the recorder. He did acknowledge that their are differences ("improvements") in the later production runs. When pressed for what they were he said that he did not have a complete list but did mention several that he knew of, internal fan changes and an "improved" remote (we already knew that from the posts on this forum). When asked about firmware changes, he said that he did not have that information but believed that all DRM-2001G models had the same firmware. What asked if firmware upgrades were going to be available for our DVD recorders and what the "future" was for this model he said, "I don't think firmware upgrades will be done for this model" but what he did volunteer is that Polariod is coming out with a new model next year that will be "much like" the current model but will have an ASTC (and NTSC) tuner. He did not have (or wouldn't say) any more information than that.

You can take this information for what it is worth and you should be aware that support people are not always "tuned in" to what a company's plans are but I thought that it would still be worthwhile to post this information.

I saw a few threads that this unit only record in VR mode to DVD-R.

Is that correct? No video mode at all? (Didn't see it in the users manual)

Isn't VR mode not as compatible?

When I record anything and then open the disc in Nero it always shows the title as DVD_VR, no matter what i set the title to in the recorder. So, I would think you are right.

When I record anything and then open the disc in Nero it always shows the title as DVD_VR, no matter what i set the title to in the recorder. So, I would think you are right.

No actually it is video mode. There is no option to record in VR mode. You are right the DVD title is DVD_VR but the file structure is video mode. Maybe DVD_VR stands for DVD_ V(ideo)R(ecording).

Speaking of production models, I have been told by a Polaroid support person that the first letter of the serial number has NOTHING to do with the MONTH that the recorder was built. The letter DOES has to do with the production run of that model of the recorder. He did acknowledge that their are differences ("improvements") in the later production runs. When pressed for what they were he said that he did not have a complete list but did mention several that he knew of, internal fan changes and an "improved" remote (we already knew that from the posts on this forum). When asked about firmware changes, he said that he did not have that information but believed that all DRM-2001G models had the same firmware. What asked if firmware upgrades were going to be available for our DVD recorders and what the "future" was for this model he said, "I don't think firmware upgrades will be done for this model" but what he did volunteer is that Polariod is coming out with a new model next year that will be "much like" the current model but will have an ASTC (and NTSC) tuner. He did not have (or wouldn't say) any more information than that.

You can take this information for what it is worth and you should be aware that support people are not always "tuned in" to what a company's plans are but I thought that it would still be worthwhile to post this information.

All of this makes sense. Another CS rep said the letter stands for the month but either way tracking the letter is a good way to ID production runs. I have also thought that there is only one fimware and probably would not upgrade if there was one. I wonder what next years model will be like. Good info - thanks.

Speaking of production models, I have been told by a Polaroid support person that the first letter of the serial number has NOTHING to do with the MONTH that the recorder was built. The letter DOES has to do with the production run of that model of the recorder. He did acknowledge that their are differences ("improvements") in the later production runs. When pressed for what they were he said that he did not have a complete list but did mention several that he knew of, internal fan changes and an "improved" remote (we already knew that from the posts on this forum). When asked about firmware changes, he said that he did not have that information but believed that all DRM-2001G models had the same firmware. What asked if firmware upgrades were going to be available for our DVD recorders and what the "future" was for this model he said, "I don't think firmware upgrades will be done for this model" but what he did volunteer is that Polariod is coming out with a new model next year that will be "much like" the current model but will have an ASTC (and NTSC) tuner. He did not have (or wouldn't say) any more information than that.

You can take this information for what it is worth and you should be aware that support people are not always "tuned in" to what a company's plans are but I thought that it would still be worthwhile to post this information.
Great info! Thanks! I picked up a unit today w/ an (H) serial #. Bought the 2 year plan w/ it. MAYBE something will happen to this unit in a year, and be replaced w/ the NEW improved, (ASTC) unit??? Great forum....

Rspiek,

You are welcome and welcome to the forum!

I also purchased the two year service plan when I purchased my Polaroid DRM-2001G at Walmart. For $17.88 I think that is is a good deal. It kick in after the 90 day mfg warranty.

The Polaroid DVD recorder is the fourth DVD recorder that I have owned in the last 3 years. My Lite-On died within it first two weeks that I had it (recorded less than 10 disks on it). I took it back and got a Philips. I had it for about three months before it died. I had to send it in and it took them about a month to fix it. When I got it back it worked fine (except for the on-screen TV not being unavailable many days). It died again (would not power up) just before the one year waranty was up so I had to send it in again. It took them three weeks this time and it worked fine again until last week when it died again. I decided that it was not worth getting it fixed again. I also have a Protron DVD recorder that gets used very little because it doen't have a hard drive so you can't edit programs.

I post all this just to give some of you that have purchased your first DVD recorder (or are considering purchasing one) a recommendation to purchase an extended warranty on ANY DVD recorder (especially if you get a good one like Wal-Mart offers for a very reasonable price).

IMHO, the Polaroid DRM-2001G isn't the greatest DVD recorder but, for the money, it is acceptable for what I am going to use it for and that is mainly to transfer recorded programs from my satellite receiver (a DISH Network ViP622 HD DVR). I use the component out from the satellite receiver to the component in of the DVD recorder and can make DVDs that look very, very good.

Bill R (#2),
Thanks again for the info. Good to know that others have issues w/ units. This is my first stand alone DVD burner. Don't do much burning. I was after the HD to use like your dish DVR. Used to have the Dish w/ DVR. Missed the pause, replay stuff. That's the best part. I now have ONLY over the air, (antenna), into HD set top receivers. I'm able to get 21 stations up to about 60 miles away w/ NO problem. Honest to GOD, I think the pic is better than Dish and cable. Don't have the selection, but that helps get me away from the tube, and IT'S FREE! I have my security feed connected, making it easy to burn a copy when I want. I wonder what would have to happen to the Polaroid and when it would have to happen, (like maybe a year from now), to trigger a possible replacement w/ the new unit w/ ASTC? I'm dreaming??? Later, ...Rich

I was at my local Wal*Mart a couple of weeks ago and they had a big stack (eight) of DRM-2001Gs. Yesterday, while shopping, I stopped by the electronics department and noticed that the stack was gone. They only had one display model (a "B" model). From the sales at that stores it looks like the Polaroid DVD recorders are selling very well.

I am trying to archive some things off my HD Tivo (HR10-250) as I am getting rid of it and am getting a Tivo S3.

I purchased this lovely Polaroid.

OK-Got it working sort of.

I can play a DVD through it, but I don't want to. I want to be able to see what is playing on the Tivo with it.

I have S out of Tivo to S in on Polaroid.

I have composites out from Polaroid to TV

I have a Sony Wega
I composites by default are Video 2

The Tivo by default is HDMI 6

How on earth do I get 2 to read 6?

What am I missing?

I know it is something stupid & simple I am spacing on.

I tried "Save to VCR" but I must still be missing something on the dvr end :o

Or am I supposed to hook the Polaroid up to TV and simply record what is ever playing?

But I still think I need to use Save to VCR.

I don't know. :(

Tase2,

You should be able to see what the DVD recorder is seeing (and will record) by viewing your TV's composite signal (video2 according to what you posted). You also need to choose the input for your DVD recorder. You do that by using the monitor key (right below the power key on the remote). For your setup you should choose the rear s-video connection, it is called R-SV on the DVD recorder's screen. You can record (or watch) other inputs by just pressing the monitor key on the remote to change inputs. While you are recording from your TiVo you can watch any input on your TV but you can not change anything (like swap tuners) on your TiVo or that will be recorded too. The best way to record something manually is just to choose the TV input that the DVD recorder is connected to (so you can see what the recorder is seeing), select the input you want to record from using the monitor button, playback the program from that input (like your TiVo). When it starts playing press the RECORD button on the remote and the program will record to your DVD recorders hard drive if that is the way you have your recorder set up. You can also record directly to a DVD but I always record to the hard drive so that I can edit (usually just chop off the beginning and end or a program). The progam that is recording will stop when you press the stop button. You can also make your DVD recorder record in increments or 30 minutes by pressing the record button again after the recording starts. An example, pressing it four times after starting a manual recording will cause it to record for 120 MORE minutes.

Here are some more tips: I always press the display button on the remote when the program starts recording so I'm reminded (by the recording bar) that a program is recording. You can use the "save to VCR" feature on your TiVo but just playing back a TiVo program does the same thing. After the transfer (from TiVO to DVD recorder) starts you can watch anything else by just changing TV inputs (but don't disturb your TiVo or DVD recorder or you will mess up your recording).

Does that clear things up?

Tase2,

You should be able to see what the DVD recorder is seeing (and will record) by viewing your TV's composite signal (video2 according to what you posted). You also need to choose the input for your DVD recorder. You do that by using the monitor key (right below the power key on the remote). For your setup you should choose the rear s-video connection, it is called R-SV on the DVD recorder's screen. You can record (or watch) other inputs by just pressing the monitor key on the remote to change inputs. While you are recording from your TiVo you can watch any input on your TV but you can not change anything (like swap tuners) on your TiVo or that will be recorded too. The best way to record something manually is just to choose the TV input that the DVD recorder is connected to (so you can see what the recorder is seeing), select the input you want to record from using the monitor button, playback the program from that input (like your TiVo). When it starts playing press the RECORD button on the remote and the program will record to your DVD recorders hard drive if that is the way you have your recorder set up. You can also record directly to a DVD but I also record to the hard drive so that I can edit (usually just chop off the beginning and end or a program). The progam that is recording will stop when you press the stop button. I always press the display button on the remote when the program starts recording so I'm reminded (by the recording bar) that a program is recording.

Does that clear things up?

Thank You
Thank You
Thank You :)

New Question-RE: Audio SetUp

I saw much discussion about Stereo vs Mono etc.
But I am at the Audio SetUp Menu and I am wondering how most folks have theirs set up?

Analog Audio Output? 2 CH or 5.1?

SPDIF Output? RAW or LPCM?

LPCM Output? 48K or 96K?

Dynamic Range??

I've got R&W from source out to the back of Polaroid

Will be hooking it up to 5.1 later on, but for now assume just red & white.

New Question-RE: Audio SetUp

I saw much discussion about Stereo vs Mono etc.
But I am at the Audio SetUp Menu and I am wondering how most folks have theirs set up?

Analog Audio Output? 2 CH or 5.1?

SPDIF Output? RAW or LPCM?

LPCM Output? 48K or 96K?

Dynamic Range??

I've got R&W from source out to the back of Polaroid

Will be hooking it up to 5.1 later on, but for now assume just red & white.

I have output set to 2ch, because I don't use the Polaroid for playback, just for recording (& you can't record in 5.1 anyway).

The other settings I left at the default.

The range problem with the remote can be fixed by replacing the LED in the remote. I replaced mine with a Radio Shack 276-143 and now the remote works a lot better. Please note that LED's do have a polarity and must be inserted correctly and this MOD does require soldering & desoldering of the LED. Even after this MOD the pickup angle is better but still seems to be limited. I was thinking of trying a device from Audioplex called the "IRPrism". It's basically a little piece of plastic that you place over the units IR sensor and it concentrates the incoming IR to the sensor. I've heard that this device does actually work.

I picked up and soldered the 276-143 blue LED for $1.79 taxed from Radioshack last night. You are right the pickup angle is better which is what I need. To me the pickup rage is longer, too. Thank you so much.

It is fine if you don't know the polarity. Basically, you can compare the original LED with the blue one by the small metal inside. Make sure you does draw a picture of the shape of the metal of original one on the paper. Before soldering the new one, make sure the orientation of the metal inside is the same as the original one. That's it, and good luck.

I thought the "newer" released models didn't have an issue with the led in the remotes ? Is this necessary any more if you have a G or H model ?

Actually the opposite is true. It records to DVD only in video mode. Even with RW media.

I don't have this unit yet, but are you sure of this? The phillips I understand only records in VR mode, and I thought this was a close cousin. The VVR mode is what has stopped me from trying the polaroid.

Rick

I don't have this unit yet, but are you sure of this? The phillips I understand only records in VR mode, and I thought this was a close cousin. The VVR mode is what has stopped me from trying the polaroid.

Rick

Same story here that was posted in the Philips thread:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=8931353&&#post8931353

It is actually +VR mode which is neither Video Mode or VR mode. +VR mimics the Video Mode file structure but allows for some editing.

When I originally looked at the files structure I thought it was Video Mode. It was definately not VR mode. But after looking into it more it is +VR mode.

Here's a pic of the +VR mode file structure. Looks just like Video Mode huh?

Two more pics.

The first is the root of a +VR disc. Notice there is no AUDIO_TS folder as with the Video Mode file structure. With +VR there is instead a VIDEO_RM folder. With Video Mode the AUDIO_TS folder is always empty. Here with a +VR disc the VIDEO_RM folder contains what you see in the second pic.

edit - I should say I am far from an expert. I am making suppositions here having no real experience with +VR. Feel free to correct if my suppositions are wrong.

Two more pics.

The first is the root of a +VR disc. Notice there is no AUDIO_TS folder as with the Video Mode file structure. With +VR there is instead a VIDEO_RM folder. With Video Mode the AUDIO_TS folder is always empty. Here with a +VR disc the VIDEO_RM folder contains what you see in the second pic.

edit - I should say I am far from an expert. I am making suppositions here having no real experience with +VR. Feel free to correct if my suppositions are wrong.

ok, thanks, looks like the Video_TS folder contains the files just like a DVD-Video mode. I guess I'll just have to try it and see.

Thanks

YES video's that I've recordered play on only 2 of my 3 dvd recorder/players and not on my computer. All regular DVD's that I've recorded play on all three of my recorder/players and on my computer.

Here's a question that I don't recall seeing on this thread:

Is there a way to copy music (MP3) to the hard drive and be able to play it back? I know the Pio 640 has a jukebox feature, but is there any work arounds that would work on the Polaroid?

Here's a question that I don't recall seeing on this thread:

Is there a way to copy music (MP3) to the hard drive and be able to play it back? I know the Pio 640 has a jukebox feature, but is there any work arounds that would work on the Polaroid?
I've copied lots of music directly to my 640's HDD and to DVDs from a CD on a separate player...not using the Jukebox. I also tested music recording (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=8885598&&#post8885598) with the video cable off the recorder and on, and you can get more music in the same space w/o the video cable. Music titles will have a normal title...date/time etc.

There should be no reason the Polaroid can't copy music the same way?

I will second that! It is much cheeper to put in a powerful (blue) LED that really works well than trying to program a more expensive universal remote. I love the way the remote works after the LED swap.

Now, a different question. I copied a program from a SD channel with input signal via cable into the Polaroid tuner. The tuner automatically set the channels at initial setup. THe copied picture on the HDD seems to have a fine diamond checkered pattern . The I noticed that the same can be seen on quite a few of the other channels using the tuner as input for viewing even without HDD recording. Is that a channel fine tuning issue? I did that and seemed to help. My cable service is Cox in my area. THe same channels clearly DO NOT have that pattern when I view the channels via the cablebox provided by cox. Anyone has similar experience???

Sorry, Nextoo, I missed your reply post.
I had the RF cable split once into two lines, one going into the Motorola cablebox (with output going into the plasma TV via DVI-HDMI cable) and the other directly into the Polaroid. I also had the cablebox output via s-video into the Polaroid. Comparing the pictures, the Polaroid tuner pictures tend to be noisier with some stations having the checker diamond noise pattern, or finely striped pattern for certain channels. I tried to do some finetuning, and for some channels I was able to take out these annoying stuff. Still the picture tends to be noisier than when I view the output picture from the Polaroid with Rear s-video as the source (i.e video feed from the cablebox). So, I have been recording mostly directly from the cablebox tuner output rather than using the Polaroid's. The best pictures recorded so far are still the HD channel shows as they are very clean, despite the 480i input via S-video. I think my problem is the Polaroid tuner, rather than drop in db from the RF cable despite the split, as the cablebox should be also getting the same strength signal as the Polaroid.

I think my problem is the Polaroid tuner, rather than drop in db from the RF cable despite the split, as the cablebox should be also getting the same strength signal as the Polaroid.
Just to make sure, do a quick-and-easy splitter check...switch output cables in the splitter and see if any diff. in PQ.

I've copied lots of music directly to my 640's HDD and to DVDs from a CD on a separate player...not using the Jukebox. I also tested music recording (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=8885598&&#post8885598) with the video cable off the recorder and on, and you can get more music in the same space w/o the video cable. Music titles will have a normal title...date/time etc.

There should be no reason the Polaroid can't copy music the same way?

That makes sense, but would it limit the amount of material I could put on the drive? I mean, since the file wouldn't be compressed MP3, wouldn't it be a fairly limited amount of space?

In other words, if you can record 102 hours in LP mode, I'm guessing you could could only put 102 hours (or maybe a bit more since there is no video) of music on the HD? I'll read through your thread you linked....

Edit: Ok, I see what you're saying. Too bad these DVD player thiat can recognize and play MP3 files don't have HDs. I guess I was looking for something like the "jukebox" feature on the Pio 640.

That makes sense, but would it limit the amount of material I could put on the drive? I mean, since the file wouldn't be compressed MP3, wouldn't it be a fairly limited amount of space?

In other words, if you can record 102 hours in LP mode, I'm guessing you could could only put 102 hours (or maybe a bit more since there is no video) of music on the HD? I'll read through your thread you linked....
I found no diff. in sound quality at the slowest SEP speed and XP speed, and audio takes up a LOT LESS space than video does.

BudgetHT and vferrari noted that all sound is compressed DD 2.0 (AC3), so the rec speed doesn't make any diff. in audio "sound"; that's why you can get much more audio on a DVD at any speed compared to video. Only LPCM is uncompressed and records at the same bit rate as if it had video.

So, using SEP mode, you can get ~41 hrs of music on a SL DVD, and ~79 hours on a DL DVD...or only 4.4GB of space...with the video cable disconnected!

See my linked post for more info, all of which is related to how much audio you can get on a single SL or DL DVD, i.e., all the capacities are related to a 4.4 or 8.5 GB disc.

So...you can get a LOT of music in a SMALL space on your HDD! It won't organized and addressable in a "Jukebox," but it'll be in separate titles on the HDD you might be able to organize and manage another way? :)

I want to pick up one of these players, but none of my local walmart stores have them in stock. I have seen a couple returned units, but otherwise they are always out of stock when I check them.

Has anyone ordered one of these from Walmart.com lately? If so can you tell me what model you got. I don't want one of the earlier units...

It depend on what the warehouse that serves your area has. I don't think if you order one on line that you can be assured that you will get a newer model. Your best bet might be to take a road trip and see if you can find one at another Walmarts.

I need some help here with regards to segmenting out parts of the recordings from the HDD.

I had recorded a football game with sp+ ( 3.5 hrs worth)onto the HDD. I have been trying to edit/segment out the commercials which can be multiple (quite a tedious task). I was able to do it to a certain extent, say , creating 7-8 segments, and then when I try to mark the start point of another segment, the whole time bar becomes the same color as the individual segments that were created earlier; in other words I cannot tell where the previous created segments were, nor can I tell where I am trying to create the new segments. I had gotten out of the particular title, and get back in with the same results. When I play the title, the previous segments were still effective. I even turned off and restarted the machine with the same blanked out time bar which still shows the arrowhead and time while in the segment mode. When I go to a different recorded title, I can segment normally. Therefore I don't know if that is a software issue or not. I had been able to wipe out all the segments using the clear button (and hence all the efforts wasted), and try re-doing the segmenting; again I was only able to do it up to a certain extent before the time bar blanks out.

Does anyone have any similar problems? :(

The easiest way that I found to edit out commercials is to burn the whole program to disc and before you finalize the disc mark the commercials as chapters and then hide those chapters. Once you finalize the disk those hidden chapters will not show. This is (somewhat) explained in the manual under "chapter editing" on page 43-44 in the manual I have.

Also, dispite what the manual says on page 40, you can not change the Index Picture when the program is on the hard drive. You must burn it to DVD before you can change the Index Picture (it is explained on page 44, part of chapter editing). Page 44 also says "to exit the chapter editing press the edit button". My remote doesn't have an edit button but I found that pressing the DVD button exits the chapter editing mode and writes the new picture you selected as the index picture. I usually use the title as the index picture. The best way to choose it is to highlight the "Index Picture" in the editing mode menu and press the pause button when the title displays (you can use all the function buttons like FF, REV, to get to it). When you have the picture you want press OK and then DVD (top of remote) to exit.

Here is another tip: BEFORE you burn a program to DVD rename the program. There are two reasons to do that: first, the name is carried over to the burned disc and second, you are allowed longer names (but not as long as I like) when you rename a program on the HDD.

Overall, the DRM-2001G is a very good recorder for the money. The manual is very poorly written and has way too many mistakes and leaves out (or doesn't explain) a lot of things. The recorder does make some really high quality DVDs and they play on every DVD that I (or my neighbors) have tried to played them on. I can't say that for any of my previous DVD recorders (the DRM-2001G is my fourth) that I have had.

I and a another guy at work each bought one of these polaroid machines about a month ago. Both of us are very new to dvr technology.

We both have D serial number's. Having this forum then also having 2 of us to compare notes has greatly helped with figuring this machine out.

I've learned a couple of things just recently that I thought worth sharing on this forum.
Regarding the remote. I was prepared to buy and install the new LED. I decided to look inside the remote and found that the main issue is that the hole for the LED is misaligned with the circuit board causing the LED to point upward. I had noticed that the remote work well pointing it towards the carpet 4-5 feet in front of the unit. This explains why. So I took my drill and routed the hole towards the bottom of the remote. I did it enough so that I actually have the LED pointing downward some so that the machine works better ergonomically speaking.

The remote is much better to use now.

Also my son came home for thanksgiving and taught me that you can see a remote work by pointing it at a digital camera with the monitor screen on. Sure enough you can get a feel for the left to right and up and down range on the remote.

Here is some miscellaneous "features" I've learned about this machine. Some of these appraisals are probably in error.

Let me say my main interest with using this machine is to record tv shows for later viewing and then deleting. I have cable with no box. I run 1 cable wire to my tv and a separate split to the dvr. Then cables (y r w) into the aux input on the tv.

When depressing the record bottom, it defaults to 3 hrs. If you depress the key again it changes the record time to 30 minutes. Each further depression adds 30 minutes of time (also displays this for you) up to 150 minutes.

The volume set at 20 (the highest) is way too low. I hope that gets "fixed" via a code upgraded.

Using auto chapter markers works great. I set mine at 5 minutes. 5 minutes is an option, although it does not appear as an option on the screen, you have to tab up above the default of 10.

My machine works great on channels 2 - 62.. but for some reason channels 63 and up (cable only goes to around 79 with not all of these channels operating unencrypted.) are terrible. Not sure why / how on this one.


This D serial unit has an internal fan that makes more noise than I desire. I have the unit behind a glass door inside a tv stand. I have a couple of air holes , one near the top and one near the bottom of the cabinet. I'm a bit concerned about heat. I am amazed how they have the internal fan blowing air around inside the unit with only gravity getting the air to escape. I imagine the B unit probably blows the air out the back which must make it run a lot cooler than these D units.

One feature that is interesting is that you can have programs coded on the timer screen and leave the unit off. It will turn on 3 minutes before the show, record the show and turn itself off. The heat output when off is minimal even though it is still running somewhat.

If you code the timer to record 6 hours straight, it is very easy to split the 6 hours at a point, so that 2 hdd files then exist. Any file can be split, although it can be a bit time consuming to get to the exact spot where you want the split to occur.

I wish the hdd file list would also show the duration on the line. You have to cursor to a recording to get the length to show.

When using the timeshift to go back a bit and see a replay, the display screen can be very irritating (like to see a football replay). I wish there was a way to tell the machine to show no display information if / when using the timeshift a lot. The display screen is interesting and is removable by hitting the display bottom enough times to toggle through all the display sub pieces.

One of the setup options allows the timeshift buffer to not get cleaned out when changing channels.

Overall I am very happy with this machine. Having the remote working well is critical. The machine has only froze on me one time and that was when I had it doing 2 things.

lsattle,

Word of advice I would dump that the stock remote and get the Sony RMVL-600 remote. You simply can't beat it for $25:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=8930791&&#post8930791

Word of advice I would dump that the stock remote and get the Sony RMVL-600 remote. You simply can't beat it for $25.

Personally, I hate the Sony universal learning remotes. They have a limited code set and limited memory for learning functions. You get what you pay for. And by the way FBI impersonator, $25 is way too much to pay for one. MANY places sell them for less than $20.

And some personal advice FBI Agent, change your handle. Homeland Security has been busting people (or at the very least making their life pure hell for a while) that post as FBI agents on the net.

Personally, I hate the Sony universal learning remotes. They have a limited code set and limited memory for learning functions. You get what you pay for. And by the way FBI impersonator, $25 is way too much to pay for one. MANY places sell them for less than $20.

And some personal advice FBI Agent, change your handle. Homeland Security has been busting people (or at the very least making their life pure hell for a while) that post as FBI agents on the net.

Have you ever tried one? Where for less than $20. Post the site. One site.

I prefer reviews from legitimate users:

http://www.remotecentral.com/ureview/116.htm

Take a pill.

Here's one:

http://www.hotbuyselectronics.com/item_detail.php?item_id=112566

Not bad. $30 with shipping.

Have you ever tried one? Where for less than $20. Post the site. One site.

I prefer reviews from legitimate users:

Take a pill.



First of all, I DID try the Sony remote. It was so bad (too little memory for learning commands) that I sent it back. And as for buying one for less than $20 all you have to do is use a search engine and several sites will pop up. This one, http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller/home?A=details&kw=SORMVL600&is=REG&Q=&O=productlist&sku=422032 is selling it for $19.95.

Just because you like the Sony remote doesn't mean that it is a good remote for everyone. And the "take a pill" remark was unnecessary. I was only trying to help and IMHO the Sony is not a good choice for everyone. It sure wasn't for me.

First of all, I DID try the Sony remote. It was so bad (too little memory for learning commands) that I sent it back. And as for buying one for less than $20 all you have to do is use a search engine and several sites will pop up. This one, http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller/home?A=details&kw=SORMVL600&is=REG&Q=&O=productlist&sku=422032 is selling it for $19.95.

Just because you like the Sony remote doesn't mean that it is a good remote for everyone. And the "take a pill" remark was unnecessary. I was only trying to help and IMHO the Sony is not a good choice for everyone. It sure wasn't for me.

24.90 with shipping. Keep trying.

Personally, I hate the Sony universal learning remotes. They have a limited code set and limited memory for learning functions. You get what you pay for. And by the way FBI impersonator, $25 is way too much to pay for one. MANY places sell them for less than $20.

And some personal advice FBI Agent, change your handle. Homeland Security has been busting people (or at the very least making their life pure hell for a while) that post as FBI agents on the net.

I would call this unnecessary. Take another pill - even if it is not time yet.

Is this thread about a stupid Sony Remote or a Polaroid DVD Recorder? I have to unsubscribe to this thread now because I'm tired of reading about people bicker over nothing.

Is this thread about a stupid Sony Remote or a Polaroid DVD Recorder? I have to unsubscribe to this thread now because I'm tired of reading about people bicker over nothing.

There has never been any bickering in this thread.

Up until the most recent attack by a member complaining about somebody's screen name and purchasing prowess you would be hard pressed to find anything negative in over 900 posts.

Your contributions are appreciated along with all others.

I just got the Polaroid today for my Birthday. I noticed it is a "B" unit (Feb. 2006)

I haven't tried it yet. Is their any issues with this unit

What are the pros and cons compared to later units

Please advise.

Thank you!!!

Personally, I hate the Sony universal learning remotes. They have a limited code set and limited memory for learning functions. You get what you pay for. And by the way FBI impersonator, $25 is way too much to pay for one. MANY places sell them for less than $20.

And some personal advice FBI Agent, change your handle. Homeland Security has been busting people (or at the very least making their life pure hell for a while) that post as FBI agents on the net.

One opinion on the Sony remote. However, to lsattle it could mean the world of difference when using his recorder.

As for my name, it's just that a name. Whoever said I was a FBI Agent? Since when does having an ID name automatically associate you with your occupation? So if I had my name President of the United States would you believe that was my occupation just because of my FORUM name? :rolleyes:
If you are trying to feel important today, try harder and somewhere else please. Follow nextoo's advice and take a pill.




Is this thread about a stupid Sony Remote or a Polaroid DVD Recorder? I have to unsubscribe to this thread now because I'm tired of reading about people bicker over nothing.

There was absolutely no bickering at all (read) until "Bill R" came in with his dimwitted post about my name 7 posts back. His opinion on the Sony remote was at least somewhat decent with his view that the Sony Remote had too little memory for learning commands. I don't find that the case in my opinion and for $25 it's a nice alternative to the Polaroid "stock" remote.

I just got the Polaroid today for my Birthday. I noticed it is a "B" unit (Feb. 2006)

I haven't tried it yet. Is their any issues with this unit

What are the pros and cons compared to later units

Please advise.

Thank you!!!

The B model is an earlier production model. The down side is that some have reported the fan being loud and a remote with a limited range. You may or may not have these issues. If you do they are fixable. On the up side, as far as I know, they do everything the newer production models do.

The B model is an earlier production model. The down side is that some have reported the fan being loud and a remote with a limited range. You may or may not have these issues. If you do they are fixable. On the up side, as far as I know, they do everything the newer production models do.


Does it record commercial DVD's

Also if return it, which is the best model to have C, D, E F, G???

Thanks

Greg

I just got the Polaroid today for my Birthday. I noticed it is a "B" unit (Feb. 2006)


Happy Birthday! And you got a really nice Birthday present too.

A "B" model may not have been made in Feb. 2006. The "B" models were the first PRODUCTION of the DRM-2001G models. According to Polaroid support, the model letter has nothing to do with the month that they were built. Some models had several productions runs made during different months.

According to Polaroid, ALL DRM-2001G models have the same firmware. There has been some hardware changes (fan placement, circuit board changes) in the newer models. Also, beginning with the "E" models (if I remember correctly) remotes were improved. As far as I know there is not any diffference in functionality between the models.

Happy Birthday! And you got a really nice Birthday present too.

A "B" model may not have been made in Feb. 2006. The "B" models were the first PRODUCTION of the DRM-2001G models. According to Polaroid support, the model letter has nothing to do with the month that they were built. Some models had several productions runs made during different months.

According to Polaroid, ALL DRM-2001G models have the same firmware. There has been some hardware changes (fan placement, circuit board changes) in the newer models. Also, beginning with the "E" models (if I remember correctly) remotes were improved. As far as I know there is not any diffference in functionality between the models.


Thank you, Bill.

I haven't tried the unit as of yet. I will power up unit tonight. Just for kicks and grins I will try to backup one of my commercial dvd's. If this unit's fan is loud I might be able to live with it as far as the remote I can probably live with that also.

Other than that then their is no reason to return it then. Right?

You may want to see if the fan runs continously or not. I had an early production model ("B" I believe) and the fan always ran whether the unit was turned on or not. I took it back due to the noise it created in my living room (sounded like a small refrigerator running constantly). I replaced it several months later with an "E" model. The fan is still loud, but only runs when the unit is on and the TV obviously covers it. The remote on the "E" model I have still sucks, but it's at the point where I really don't care. I really like my Polaroid and think it's a heck of deal. Happy B-day.

I need some help here with regards to segmenting out parts of the recordings from the HDD.

I had recorded a football game with sp+ ( 3.5 hrs worth)onto the HDD. I have been trying to edit/segment out the commercials which can be multiple (quite a tedious task). I was able to do it to a certain extent, say , creating 7-8 segments, and then when I try to mark the start point of another segment, the whole time bar becomes the same color as the individual segments that were created earlier; in other words I cannot tell where the previous created segments were, nor can I tell where I am trying to create the new segments. I had gotten out of the particular title, and get back in with the same results. When I play the title, the previous segments were still effective. I even turned off and restarted the machine with the same blanked out time bar which still shows the arrowhead and time while in the segment mode. When I go to a different recorded title, I can segment normally. Therefore I don't know if that is a software issue or not. I had been able to wipe out all the segments using the clear button (and hence all the efforts wasted), and try re-doing the segmenting; again I was only able to do it up to a certain extent before the time bar blanks out.

Does anyone have any similar problems? :(


First I would like to thank Bill R (#2) for the quick reply. I assume the solution you mentioned involves burning onto a RW disc.
I have to admit I am new to using the DVR, and I have yet to learn about treaking the unwanted stuff I recorded. That is why I was trying to use the segment function to edit out stuff before burnig. Also, the recording on the HDD was 3.5hrs worth for a football game recording at sp+. If I was successful at doing the segmenting, I would be able to put the game into one DVD (under 2.5 hrs).

I am having problems with segmenting out all the commercials as the segment function seems to stop functioning after a while: with the time bar entirely of the same color, even when I tried to put in a start segment point blind, while the picture is under pause, the unit would freeze up and continually run. The only way I can stop it is to pull the plug! NON of the remote buttons nor the buttons on the machine work. Does anyone have this similar problem?

My unit that has February 2006:

Remote works from my kitchen to my family room.......over 27 : feet!!! :)

The fan noise to me is slightly noticable.

Also the fan is off when powered off

Tried to view a commerical Disney movie through componet cable...had a black bar down the middle. As expected :D

Tried Ice Age with similiar results.

Tried to view a commerical Disney movie through componet cable...had a black bar down the middle. As expected :D

Tried Ice Age with similiar results.

Happy to see you have a good remote! What do you mean by a black bar? When just viewing?

First I would like to thank Bill R (#2) for the quick reply. I assume the solution you mentioned involves burning onto a RW disc.


CCGW,

You are welcome.

I use +R discs. Many people don't know this but you can edit a +R disc as long as you do it before it is finalized (and it MUST be finalized before you can play in on a DVD PLAYER). You can do things like change the title picture, the program and disc name, and what you really want to use it for, editing out ads (by marking and hiding chapters).

Be sure that your choose the right recording mode (page 21 of the manual) if you intend to burn larger programs to disc. I most always use the SP+ mode (2.5 hours) but I think that you may need LP or EP for some of your programs. By the way, there is a mistake in my manual (I don't know if it is corrected in newer manuals). LP and EP are reversed in the chart on page 21. LP is 3 hours and EP is 4 hours.

If you recorded a 4 hour program in SP+ it will NOT fit on a DVD. You must edit it FIRST before you can burn it. I once owned a DVD recorder that allowed you to record in one mode (example, SP) and record in a different mode (example, EP). Our models don't have that feature so you have to remember before you reocrd a long program to set the proper mode so it will fit on a disc.

I use +R discs. Many people don't know this but you can edit a +R disc as long as you do it before it is finalized (and it MUST be finalized before you can play in on a DVD PLAYER). You can do things like change the title picture, the program and disc name, and what you really want to use it for, editing out ads (by marking and hiding chapters).
Yes this is good advice. The Polaroid records in +VR mode. +VR was developed by Philips. The file structure mimics Video Mode but +VR also offers some video editing capabilities not available with Video Mode recording. This is not necessarily a function of the +R disc. -R works the same way with the Polaroid.

I like the fact that you can edit as mentioned but can also append on disc. This means you can record to an existing title on disc without creating an additional title. Kind of a form of "merging" which the Polaroid does not offer when editing on the HDD

-+RW offers even more editing capabilities on disc.

Happy to see you have a good remote! What do you mean by a black bar? When just viewing?

Thanks!!

I had a black bar down the center when I was playing a movie from my Sony DVD player into the componet input of the Polaroid. I should have been clear in my explanation.

I will be testing further functions later today.

Yes this is good advice. The Polaroid records in +VR mode. +VR was developed by Philips. The file structure mimics Video Mode but +VR also offers some video editing capabilities not available with Video Mode recording. This is not necessarily a function of the +R disc. -R works the same way with the Polaroid.

I like the fact that you can edit as mentioned but can also append on disc. This means you can record to an existing title on disc without creating an additional title. Kind of a form of "merging" which the Polaroid does not offer when editing on the HDD

-+RW offers even more editing capabilities on disc.

Very informative info.
Now that I have a long recording on my HDD that I am trying to cut down to under 2.5 hrs (while recorded in sp+), and it is definitely possible after cutting out the half time show, ads etc, how do I do it if I keep on running into problems with segmenting out numerous ads (see my post above). I think I can clear all the segments and start all over again. One extreme solution would be to split the ads, and then delete both ends of the ads from the split segments!!! Then I can see myself ending up with up to 30 split pieces! Or, split up the main chunks first, then do segmenting in the individual chunks before "merging" them when burning onto the dvd! BTW, I was able to do a few segments today on a different recording before burning. I really wonder if the segment function only allow a certain number of segment done before locking up! Difficult problem there.

Very informative info.
Now that I have a long recording on my HDD that I am trying to cut down to under 2.5 hrs (while recorded in sp+), and it is definitely possible after cutting out the half time show, ads etc, how do I do it if I keep on running into problems with segmenting out numerous ads (see my post above). I think I can clear all the segments and start all over again. One extreme solution would be to split the ads, and then delete both ends of the ads from the split segments!!! Then I can see myself ending up with up to 30 split pieces! Or, split up the main chunks first, then do segmenting in the individual chunks before "merging" them when burning onto the dvd! BTW, I was able to do a few segments today on a different recording before burning. I really wonder if the segment function only allow a certain number of segment done before locking up! Difficult problem there.

I guessing you are having trouble editing because it is 3.5 hours long but recorded in 2.5 hour mode. I don't really see why this should be a problem but these recorders can be a real PIA sometimes.

Is it a football game? Why not just cut it in half and then edit the two halves. You can then move each title to one disc and have a thumbnail for the first half and another for the second half. Just a thought.

The easiest way that I found to edit out commercials is to burn the whole program to disc and before you finalize the disc mark the commercials as chapters and then hide those chapters. Once you finalize the disk those hidden chapters will not show. This is (somewhat) explained in the manual under "chapter editing" on page 43-44 in the manual I have.

Also, dispite what the manual says on page 40, you can not change the Index Picture when the program is on the hard drive. You must burn it to DVD before you can change the Index Picture (it is explained on page 44, part of chapter editing). Page 44 also says "to exit the chapter editing press the edit button". My remote doesn't have an edit button but I found that pressing the DVD button exits the chapter editing mode and writes the new picture you selected as the index picture. I usually use the title as the index picture. The best way to choose it is to highlight the "Index Picture" in the editing mode menu and press the pause button when the title displays (you can use all the function buttons like FF, REV, to get to it). When you have the picture you want press OK and then DVD (top of remote) to exit.


Here is another tip: BEFORE you burn a program to DVD rename the program. There are two reasons to do that: first, the name is carried over to the burned disc and second, you are allowed longer names (but not as long as I like) when you rename a program on the HDD.

Overall, the DRM-2001G is a very good recorder for the money. The manual is very poorly written and has way too many mistakes and leaves out (or doesn't explain) a lot of things. The recorder does make some really high quality DVDs and they play on every DVD that I (or my neighbors) have tried to played them on. I can't say that for any of my previous DVD recorders (the DRM-2001G is my fourth) that I have had.

When you said the hidden chapters will not show, does it apply to playing the burnt discs on other dvd players, or just the Polaroid? Now one dumb question:I understand the terms: title, chapters (which are different segments set under each title). What is Index Picture, and what is it for???

index picture = thumbnail = that little picture on the DVD disc title menu.

I guessing you are having trouble editing because it is 3.5 hours long but recorded in 2.5 hour mode. I don't really see why this should be a problem but these recorders can be a real PIA sometimes.

Is it a football game? Why not just cut it in half and then edit the two halves. You can then move each title to one disc and have a thumbnail for the first half and another for the second half. Just a thought.

That is exactly what I will do next....chop chop! Hopefully I can save some of the segmenting work I have put in; otherwise, i will have to clear all the segments and start all over again. Right now I cannot see the segments already done if I go into the segment mode. It will be interesting when I chop the recording into halves, then quarters and see if the segment bar is still one solid blue color.

Thank you nextoo. You and some others have helped quite a lot of newbies on this board, which makes AVS Forum so popular and successful.

When you said the hidden chapters will not show, does it apply to playing the burnt discs on other dvd players, or just the Polaroid? Now one dumb question:I understand the terms: title, chapters (which are different segments set under each title). What is Index Picture, and what is it for???

The chapters you hide prior to finalizing will not be viewable on other players. The hidden chapters will no longer be referenced in the finalized video_ts file.

I know it has been posted before that the Polaroid tuner pictures are a bit noisy. I have the same experience with cableTV RF feed into the Polaroid. There are some non network channels , like disney channel, that comes across with a fine diamond checkered pattern on the picture. If I fine tune the channel, it can go to a fine striped pattern , but never quite cleared of the interference like pattern. For other channels, I was able to clear that with fine tuning. Checking the picture coming out from the cabletv box (motorola from cox), the picture was just fine and clean! So, I have been recording from the cablebox s video out feed into the Polaroid so far, and avoiding the polaroid tuner. Any ideas here? Is there an RF leak in the Polaroid? even with a non local network channel?

Thanks!!

I had a black bar down the center when I was playing a movie from my Sony DVD player into the componet input of the Polaroid. I should have been clear in my explanation.

I will be testing further functions later today.

Does your Sony player upconvert to 480p over the component? A 480p signal into the Polaroid can cause a "double" picture with a split down the middle. Is this what you're seeing?

If so, set the Sony to 480i, or try the s-vid out.

I guessing you are having trouble editing because it is 3.5 hours long but recorded in 2.5 hour mode. I don't really see why this should be a problem but these recorders can be a real PIA sometimes.

Is it a football game? Why not just cut it in half and then edit the two halves. You can then move each title to one disc and have a thumbnail for the first half and another for the second half. Just a thought.


Just to report that splitting up the long recording of 3.5 hrs recorded at sp+ into different titles (in this case, a football game into four titles) allowed me to perform the segment function on all the separated titles without any problems. I did not encounter any more lock up which happened on several of my attempts at segmenting out numverous commercials off the same long recording(once that happens, non of the function keys on the key nor on the polaroid work; the only way is to pull the plug. Upon restarting, the same lockup exists when I go into the segment function for the particular long title. Luckily I can clear the segments and start over) . I really wonder if the machine cannot do too much segments in a single long title.

CCGW,


I use +R discs. Many people don't know this but you can edit a +R disc as long as you do it before it is finalized (and it MUST be finalized before you can play in on a DVD PLAYER). You can do things like change the title picture, the program and disc name, and what you really want to use it for, editing out ads (by marking and hiding chapters).

Be sure that your choose the right recording mode (page 21 of the manual) if you intend to burn larger programs to disc. I most always use the SP+ mode (2.5 hours) but I think that you may need LP or EP for some of your programs. By the way, there is a mistake in my manual (I don't know if it is corrected in newer manuals). LP and EP are reversed in the chart on page 21. LP is 3 hours and EP is 4 hours.

If you recorded a 4 hour program in SP+ it will NOT fit on a DVD. You must edit it FIRST before you can burn it. I once owned a DVD recorder that allowed you to record in one mode (example, SP) and record in a different mode (example, EP). Our models don't have that feature so you have to remember before you reocrd a long program to set the proper mode so it will fit on a disc.

Yes, if I know the recording length is between 2 and 2.5 hrs, I will use the sp+. If 2 or under, definitely the sp setting. I find the two settings produce pretty similar good quality pictures. I try to avoid the 3 or 4 hour mode if I can.

ccgw - good news. I guess a test would be to record in 4 hour mode for 3.5 hours and see if the editing experience is any different.

Does your Sony player upconvert to 480p over the component? A 480p signal into the Polaroid can cause a "double" picture with a split down the middle. Is this what you're seeing?

If so, set the Sony to 480i, or try the s-vid out.

Yes. thanks that cleared the problem.

hi.
first post and glad I found this site. it rocks.
I sat up to like 3am reading all of these posts about this Poloroid and I didnt see the answer to my question/post here so thats why I am posting this.

(Unless I missed it somewhere--- if so--- sorry to repeat this but I did try and search and read all the posts)

I did get this Polaroid yesterday from W Mart after my Radio Shack, Accurian, died in 2 days.

On the RS one I had......I was able to go------DVD-------->HDD.

On the Polaroid, I dont see this. Called support and they said cause of copyrights and such it wont do this.

I have my own DVDs from an old video of family and want to back up them on the Poloroid. I dont have the orig. video nor tapes; just DVDs.

Is there a way to record DVD--------->HDD? on this unit?

thank you very much for any help.
boo.

hi.
first post and glad I found this site. it rocks.
I sat up to like 3am reading all of these posts about this Poloroid and I didnt see the answer to my question/post here so thats why I am posting this.

(Unless I missed it somewhere--- if so--- sorry to repeat this but I did try and search and read all the posts)

I did get this Polaroid yesterday from W Mart after my Radio Shack, Accurian, died in 2 days.

On the RS one I had......I was able to go------DVD-------->HDD.

On the Polaroid, I dont see this. Called support and they said cause of copyrights and such it wont do this.

I have my own DVDs from an old video of family and want to back up them on the Poloroid. I dont have the orig. video nor tapes; just DVDs.

Is there a way to record DVD--------->HDD? on this unit?

thank you very much for any help.
boo.

It is not possible internally. The only option is to play it into the inputs with a DVD player.

It is not possible internally. The only option is to play it into the inputs with a DVD player.


Hi there nextoo. Thank you for the reply. I figured this might be the way to do this cause Im sure it would have been posted here already.

BTW, thank you for your awesome, informative posts here.
I have learned sooooooo much about this Polaroid in one night from reading the posts here!

:-)

Boo.

I have been playing with creating segments on the HDD title. I can create the segments but how do you save them? The user manual is so poorly written that I have gone back to the trial and error method of learning. Thanks, Gary

I have been playing with creating segments on the HDD title. I can create the segments but how do you save them? The user manual is so poorly written that I have gone back to the trial and error method of learning. Thanks, Gary

It automatically saves them? Once you have segmented portions of a title (cut some commercials out), go back to the title list area and select "segment" again and you will see your segments still intact.

It seems like I remember a warning about making sure you save or they will not be saved... During segmenting, I usually fast forward to the end and it saves automatically.

Not sure what happens if you hit the "Stop" key while segmenting... maybe that will not save your segments?

Ron

I have my own DVDs from an old video of family and want to back up them on the Poloroid. I dont have the orig. video nor tapes; just DVDs.

boo.

Welcome Boo. Besides the option that Nextoo mentioned (which works very well), if you have a DVD burner in your PC you might want to use it to make backup copies of your home DVDs. There are a lot of good programs available they will allow you to make perfect copies of your DVDs and some will even allow you to store backup copies on your computer (and some of the programs are freeware). If you don't have a DVD burner you can get an external USB 2.0 CD/DVD burner for a very reasonable price. External storage hard drives are quite reasonable too. Last week (black Friday) I picked up a 250 GB HD for $60 and an USB 2.0 enclosure for $20 and I am going to use that just for my DVD backup storage. On a 250 GB drive you can store about 125 - 150 DVDs which, to me, is a lot better than storing them on my Polaroid DVD recorder.

I went to Wallyworld and checked out the Polaroids.

I saw a unit now that begins with "K" I just got the the other day and I have a "B". Does anyone know of any differences?

BTW are their any firmware upgrades to this unit?

Thanks.

K is new to me. 11th letter in the alphabet - November is the 11th month? It was reported in another forum that Polaroid customer service said that the letter corresponded to the month of production. But it was also reported here that that is not the case. Either way having never heard of a "K" before it tells me that they are still making them.

K is new to me.

It is new to me too. The "latest" model that I have seen at my local Wal*Mart (and they are the only place that sells them around here) is the "H" model. They had a few of them in October and they sold out fast. Earier this month the same store got in a stack of "B" models (someone is not doing good inventory control - "first-in, first-out" - at Wal*Mart).

And, gondey99, as far as we know there are no firmware updates for the DRM-2001G models.

If you decide to take your "B" model back and get a "K" model let us know any differences you see.

It is new to me too. The "latest" model that I have seen at my local Wal*Mart (and they are the only place that sells them around here) is the "H" model. They had a few of them in October and they sold out fast. Earier this month the same store got in a stack of "B" models (someone is not doing good inventory control - "first-in, first-out" - at Wal*Mart).

And, gondey99, as far as we know there are no firmware updates for the DRM-2001G models.

If you decide to take your "B" model back and get a "K" model let us know any differences you see.

And where is the "I" model. Has anybody seen one? Not sure here.

Every "B" I've seen does have that early production model fan grill on the back panel. I am thinking regardless of the model/month question that progressive letters mean newer production dates.

It automatically saves them? Once you have segmented portions of a title (cut some commercials out), go back to the title list area and select "segment" again and you will see your segments still intact.

It seems like I remember a warning about making sure you save or they will not be saved... During segmenting, I usually fast forward to the end and it saves automatically.

Not sure what happens if you hit the "Stop" key while segmenting... maybe that will not save your segments?

Ron

"Stop" automatically saves segments. At least, it always has for me.

David

ccgw - good news. I guess a test would be to record in 4 hour mode for 3.5 hours and see if the editing experience is any different.



That would be the logical test to see if the way the recording was done was the problem. My guess is that there seems to be a limit as to how much segmenting you can do to a title before it gets overloaded and locks up. The ulimate test series would be to
1. Record 3.5 hours agains on sp+, then keep on putting in segments until the cows come home! To test for reproduction of the problem.
2. Do what you suggested but in two ways, record 3.5 and 4.5 hours in 4 hour mode, and then do multiple segments.
3. Do multiple segments in a shorter recording, say 1.5 hrs under sp mode.

I called Polaroid tech support, and they didn't know much about the problem.

"Stop" automatically saves segments. At least, it always has for me.

David

Thanks, thebard. Good to know.

I have never had them not save... but I do remember reading in the manual or on screen, a warning about saving segements or they will be lost. Probably just another "worst manual ever" thing.

Ron

And where is the "I" model. Has anybody seen one? Not sure here.

Every "B" I've seen does have that early production model fan grill on the back panel. I am thinking regardless of the model/month question that progressive letters mean newer production dates.


Went to Wallyworld this morning and returned the "B" unit and picked up the "K" unit. I will power up this unit tonight.

Went to Wallyworld this morning and returned the "B" unit and picked up the "K" unit. I will power up this unit tonight.

This will be interesting. Post your results please! My local Walmart stores have not been restocking.

Forgot to say in my first ever post that my unit is an "H" one that I had to piece together at WM cause some nosey customers opened it up to "explore" the box contents. I gathered up the remote, cables and manual somewhere in the area.
The Phillips 160G HDD one was not to be found.

I got a small discount with the unit and its fine and I like it a lot. Want to replace the HDD of course as soon as I can.

BTW, the manager ordered more on his tiny handheld device they use for scanning and inventory. (So he says he was ordering)

Would like to get another one of these for the other room. Im pleased with it so far and its been 3 days I think.

Thnx again for the way cool site!


boo.

This will be interesting. Post your results please! My local Walmart stores have not been restocking.


Is there anything in particular that you would like me to test out first?

I will post as soon as I can.

On a quick note. The unit that I picked up was the only one there.

Is there anything in particular that you would like me to test out first?

I will post as soon as I can.

On a quick note. The unit that I picked up was the only one there.

I'm curious to see if the firmware is changed. Easiest way to check that is to see if the CP has been improved. Also the few things that everybody seems to post about - fan noise, does it pass a video signal when it is turned off, remote.

By the way I see you posted about how to hook up a couple of DVD recorders with a cable box and your TV. I've got that same setup without a switch installed. The Polaroid being able to pass a video/audio signal when turned off will help when hooking things up.

Is there a limit to how many Edit Points you can put on one recording with this unit? I have the similar Philips DVDR 3455/37 and as I was editing a football game I recorded to the HDD about midway thru the 2nd half when I tried to edit probably the 15th or 16th commercial out all my Edit Points preceding that one disappeared and I could not place the New Edit Point!!

When I rewound it just a bit all my Edit Points re-appeared. When I went forward again they all disappeared again. Then the Unit stopped responding to my remote, nor would the buttons on the unit function. Meanwhile, the game is still "playing" so I let it run to the end of the recording hoping that would help. It didn't. The unit was then fully locked up and only unplugging it from power worked. I plugged it back in, went back to my game, and ALL My Edit Points were gone!! : ( Has anyone here experienced anything similar with the Polaroid??

I'm curious to see if the firmware is changed. Easiest way to check that is to see if the CP has been improved. Also the few things that everybody seems to post about - fan noise, does it pass a video signal when it is turned off, remote.

By the way I see you posted about how to hook up a couple of DVD recorders with a cable box and your TV. I've got that same setup without a switch installed. The Polaroid being able to pass a video/audio signal when turned off will help when hooking things up.

I dont know if this helps you but as I said in last post--- I got an "H" model the other day.


As far as fan, its not very loud. I dont notice it when the TV is on. If TV is off, it sounds kinda like my laptops noise as far as when the fan comes on.

The remote works like 15 feet away from a chair and on an angle.

When the unit is off, the signal is passing thru it fine.

Hope this helps a little, as you guys have helped me here!

boo.

My Polaroid recorder has the copyright protection but when I record thru a Lite On recorder that I have removed the copright protection from it works fine. I can copy any DVD to the Polaroid and make a YES vIdeo. Also if anyone wants a good remote I like the Universal Automater learning remote. It sells at Best Buy and Circuit City for about $150 but B& H Photo has them for about $70. Holds up to 10 devices and has LCD screen to customise your remote.

I dont know if this helps you but as I said in last post--- I got an "H" model the other day.


As far as fan, its not very loud. I dont notice it when the TV is on. If TV is off, it sounds kinda like my laptops noise as far as when the fan comes on.

The remote works like 15 feet away from a chair and on an angle.

When the unit is off, the signal is passing thru it fine.

Hope this helps a little, as you guys have helped me here!

boo.

My K units fan seems quiet to me and is off when the unit is powered down

Question when yousay it is passing signal while off from which source is it passing? Cable, s-video?

My K units fan seems quiet to me and is off when the unit is powered down

Question when yousay it is passing signal while off from which source is it passing? Cable, s-video?


hi.
It is from the cable box but it uses different connections if TV is off/on.

I set it up coax and composite out of box to input of DMR.

When it records, I know its using the composite cause i tested it by removing the coax and theres a picture still.

But when the DMR is off, it seems to need the coax to go thru the TV from box cause when I pulled it out, I lost the picture.
Hope this helps but to me -- its kinda confusing why its this way.

boo

Is there a limit to how many Edit Points you can put on one recording with this unit? I have the similar Philips DVDR 3455/37 and as I was editing a football game I recorded to the HDD about midway thru the 2nd half when I tried to edit probably the 15th or 16th commercial out all my Edit Points preceding that one disappeared and I could not place the New Edit Point!!

When I rewound it just a bit all my Edit Points re-appeared. When I went forward again they all disappeared again. Then the Unit stopped responding to my remote, nor would the buttons on the unit function. Meanwhile, the game is still "playing" so I let it run to the end of the recording hoping that would help. It didn't. The unit was then fully locked up and only unplugging it from power worked. I plugged it back in, went back to my game, and ALL My Edit Points were gone!! : ( Has anyone here experienced anything similar with the Polaroid??

What you described is EXACTLY what I experienced, and it also happened to be a football game! See my previous posts #915 -page 31, and posts 933, 939, 943 and 947 on page 32.

After I pulled the plug, and revisited the title under the segment mode, you cannot see the saved segments nor can you do any additional segmenting; I tried and it freezes up again with the title continuing to play and non responsiveness of ANY button on the remote nor machine. After pulling the plug and restarting, you CAN play the title with the saved segments not showing up during the play. But the key is that you CAN clear this by pushing the clear button on the remote while in the segment mode, and the blue time bar will turn to the original lighter color, with all the previously segmenting gone as well. From that point you can do the segmenting again. I have tried to redo the segmenting only up to a certain point before it locks up again! (I don't think it is due to the 3.5 hr recording on the HDD on the sp+ (2.5 hr)mode that I am using.

As mentioned before, I finally split the game into four titles, i.e. four quarters of the football game, and was successful in segmenting out all the commercials and halftime stuff before burning all four segments onto a single DVD (that turns out to be a 2.25 hr recording on a sp+ quality mode). Had not have problems segmenting a 1.45 hr program on sp mode recording; however there were not as many commercials I had to segment out. They really waste a lot of the viewer's time in football games with commercials during timeouts!

I also have the polaroid recorder w/80 gig hard drive.I am having trouble w/my 5.1 surround sound output ,I get sound but not stereo--very frustrated.I was going to return it to Walmart.

I also have the polaroid recorder w/80 gig hard drive.I am having trouble w/my 5.1 surround sound output ,I get sound but not stereo--very frustrated.I was going to return it to Walmart.


Just to clarify which output are you using the RCA audio jacks/ SPDIF/or the optical out?

I also have the polaroid recorder w/80 gig hard drive.I am having trouble w/my 5.1 surround sound output ,I get sound but not stereo--very frustrated.I was going to return it to Walmart.

Is it correct in the audio setup screen. There is both 5.1 and 2 Channel options under Analog Audio Output and Raw or LPCM under SPDIF Output.

I also have the polaroid recorder w/80 gig hard drive.I am having trouble w/my 5.1 surround sound output ,I get sound but not stereo--very frustrated.I was going to return it to Walmart.
Were you playing back a show you had recorded using the RF input on the Polaroid (i.e., using a direct input from cable TV or an antenna)?

If so, many folks have confirmed that the internal tuner in the Polaroid does not support stereo audio for TV broadcasts. In that scenario, you will hear exactly the same audio from both speakers.

If you record using the line inputs it will be in stereo and should sound as you expect it to.

Also, playing back a commercial DVD should deliver either DD 5.1 audio or stereo (depending an what is available on the commercal DVD).

Wow! 33 pages!!!! THAT took a while to read!!!! :)

OK, we have a D06 series unit. The remote sucked but I did the Radio Shack LED fix and now it works fine. Recently though our darn fan has gotten LOUD. GRRR! We're really liking the thing and it was the last one our local Wally World had and they said it was a do not reorder item so they wouldn't be getting any more in. We hate to take it back if we can't get another, though we may push to see if they would pay the shipping if we ordered a replacement from Walmart-dot-com.

If it's a simple fix though, like the remote was, I'd rather just fix it and not deal with the return.

I've read where putting some rubber under the fan mount has helped. I haven't read anything much about replacement fans . . . does remounting the fan normally fix the noise problem, or is there an off the shelf fan that can be used as a replacement to fix the problem?

THANKS!

Steve

ccgw, thanks SO MUCH for your response. : )

I had already considered splitting the game into 1st and 2nd half, and suppose I will now. I think I recorded this game in the 3.5 hr. mode. I am glad to hear you were able to burn it all to one disc. Thanks again for your response!!! : )

Wow! 33 pages!!!! THAT took a while to read!!!! :)

OK, we have a D06 series unit. The remote sucked but I did the Radio Shack LED fix and now it works fine. Recently though our darn fan has gotten LOUD. GRRR! We're really liking the thing and it was the last one our local Wally World had and they said it was a do not reorder item so they wouldn't be getting any more in. We hate to take it back if we can't get another, though we may push to see if they would pay the shipping if we ordered a replacement from Walmart-dot-com.

If it's a simple fix though, like the remote was, I'd rather just fix it and not deal with the return.

I've read where putting some rubber under the fan mount has helped. I haven't read anything much about replacement fans . . . does remounting the fan normally fix the noise problem, or is there an off the shelf fan that can be used as a replacement to fix the problem?

THANKS!

Steve

I've been researching computer fans on the web and this fan is readily available. (google search 'quiet computer fan').
Note, A guy at work with this unit wants to replace his fan and he is going to check if it is 5v or 12v. He has a D unit with the internal fan.
Also, these fan vendors have rubber connectors vs screws that I believe would be the professional way to quiet it.

I will attempt to post the voltage when I know it.

Has anyone upgraded the Hard Disc on this unit? It is an IDE or SATA?

Has anyone upgraded the Hard Disc on this unit? It is an IDE or SATA?

Hi, from what I read here and from nextoo's post, the drive is most definitely IDE.

boo.

I've been researching computer fans on the web and this fan is readily available. (google search 'quiet computer fan').
Note, A guy at work with this unit wants to replace his fan and he is going to check if it is 5v or 12v. He has a D unit with the internal fan.
Also, these fan vendors have rubber connectors vs screws that I believe would be the professional way to quiet it.

I will attempt to post the voltage when I know it.

From earlier in the thread by Dartman:

"It has a T&T 12 volt .16 amp 2 pin fan now, 40mm thin, and it moves about 7 cfm according to the specs"

Not sure which model though. I think the fans have changed based on model. But the basic specs have remained the same.

Yes it is an IDE drive.

A region free hack that works with "K" serial number units has been posted to:

http://www.videohelp.com/dvdhacks.php?select=Polaroid+DRM-2001G

The earlier hacks wouldn't work on this unit. Tested it with region 2 discs, and it works great.

Jon

Latest region code hack works on my G unit. Now if someone could come up with a Macrovision hack this recorder would be great.

ccgw, I decided to post an update here. Your answering my post helped me tremendously - Thank You!!! :) :) :)

You saved me from clearing all the edit points (which I had originally assumed were lost) and all the time I would have wasted going back and trying to edit the full game again only to have it lock up again. Instead, after reading your post and realizing the edit points might still exist I decided to go into the Original Full Title and see if it would let me split it at Halftime without locking up. It did, and in doing so it saved EVERY Single Edit right up to the point the HDD locked up on me before!! So I had the entire 1st half already completely edited, and most of the 2nd half (New Title after splitting) already edited as well. It only took me about 10 minutes to finish editing the 2nd half, and when I went to burn the DVD from it it filled up 97% of the disc!! That's cutting it pretty close, eh!

Anyway, thank you again for taking time to answer my post and saving me considerably more wasted time and aggravation!! :D

I've been researching computer fans on the web and this fan is readily available. (google search 'quiet computer fan').
Note, A guy at work with this unit wants to replace his fan and he is going to check if it is 5v or 12v. He has a D unit with the internal fan.
Also, these fan vendors have rubber connectors vs screws that I believe would be the professional way to quiet it.

I will attempt to post the voltage when I know it.

I've been looking a bit too and I think a suitable replacement isn't too hard to find.

I think the original was a sleeve bearing so a sleeve bearing fan should equal the original fan for projected longevity. A ball bearing fan would last longer but it seems most ball bearing fans are around 6cfm though. It also seems that most fans, sleeve or ball bearing, run around 30dBA for noise.

I found a fan that only moves 4.11cfm but it's only 14dBA for noise. It also has less than half the amp draw of the original, so I'm thinking of maybe installing two of these to get 8.22 cfm of air movement but still hopefully have less noise?

Model Name: Mini Kaze 4cm Silent Fan
Model Number: SY124010L
Dimensions: 40x40x10mm
Fan Speed: 3500rpm(±10%)
Fan Noise: 14.00dBA
Airflow: 4.11CFM
Rated Voltage: 12V
Rated Current: 0.06A
Bearing Type: Sleeve Bearing
MTBF: 30,000 hours
Connector: 2-pin (3-pin adaptor included)
Note: The 2-pin connector comes with this fan is set to be 6mm width. 3-pin connection is not compatible to read the pulse.

I haven't had time to open ours yet, probably wont for a couple days, but I'll post back what the fan and stuff is in our D unit.

/Steve

Thanks for this info; my fan occassionaly has a "grr" which usually goes away in 45 sec - 1 minute. The fan in my unit is 40mmX40mmX10mm. The part number on the fan is 4010M125. It is 12v according the circuit board printing. My guess the last 3 numbers refer to the air flow in cubic meters/min - .125 cubic meters/min - ( this would be 4.4 cubic feet/min). This seems to be "standard" rating for fans of this size. Typical noise levels in dbA are 25-30 so this fan looks like it is much quieter.

Thanks for this info; my fan occassionaly has a "grr" which usually goes away in 45 sec - 1 minute. The fan in my unit is 40mmX40mmX10mm. The part number on the fan is 4010M125. It is 12v according the circuit board printing. My guess the last 3 numbers refer to the air flow in cubic meters/min - .125 cubic meters/min - ( this would be 4.4 cubic feet/min). This seems to be "standard" rating for fans of this size. Typical noise levels in dbA are 25-30 so this fan looks like it is much quieter.

What model is your unit? (i.e. the first letter of your serial #. I believe they started at B and are now at K. Ours is a D model).

Latest region code hack works on my G unit. Now if someone could come up with a Macrovision hack this recorder would be great.

Try the earlier hack for MV. Was told you wouldn't see anything on screen, but that it worked. Guy said that you had to do it each time you powered on as the unit won't save the change permanently. On the same site as the region hack, in fact, it is the same hack. I haven't gotten around to trying it yet.

Jon

What model is your unit? (i.e. the first letter of your serial #. I believe they started at B and are now at K. Ours is a D model).

SLR_65

Mine is a "D". I bought mine from Walmart store about 1 month ago. At the had 3 or 4 "B" and 2 "D"'. Based on info of this forum I went with "D". Picture is great and no issues recording to HDD or DVD+R/DVD+RW. The remote control unit is not the best. I bought an "I/R prism" but it did not help. Will probably install the Radio Shack LED referenced on this forum. The other issue is the "occasionally" noisy fan for which it looks like there are multiple replacements. Too bad you have to hack around like this but I guess that's the way it is. Good luck.

SLR_65

Mine is a "D". I bought mine from Walmart store about 1 month ago. At the had 3 or 4 "B" and 2 "D"'. Based on info of this forum I went with "D". Picture is great and no issues recording to HDD or DVD+R/DVD+RW. The remote control unit is not the best. I bought an "I/R prism" but it did not help. Will probably install the Radio Shack LED referenced on this forum. The other issue is the "occasionally" noisy fan for which it looks like there are multiple replacements. Too bad you have to hack around like this but I guess that's the way it is. Good luck.

GREAT! Ours is a D model also, so I'll take a leap and assume ours is the same. I'll do a little more surfing for fans and get something ordered in the next day or so. Once I have the new one installed I'll post back what I used and how it works.

Our picture is great too!

Our remote also sucked, but the Radio Shack LED really did fix the problem. It's not too hard to do, but prying it apart is kinda hard. Start at the front by the LED, pinch the sides and it should open up a little, stick something thin in the crack and work it around and it should come right apart. BTW, Polaroid is showing a spare remote is available for ordering on their web site, $15 I think, I think I'm going to order a spare.

Our clock wont auto set correctly (WAY off on time and it sets the date to 2003!). Setting it manually works OK, but it runs a tad fast so I reset it weekly.

We've had no issues burning DVDs with TY 8x +R inkjet printables. We do have an annoying playback issue though . . . if we play a disc burnt in the Polaroid on a GE1101PA, 1101PB, or Apex 1500 it works fine EXCEPT when you hit fast forward . . . when you do that it goes into warp drive and zips right to the end of the disc! Not a huge deal, but it would be nice to be able to skip commercials on the burnt discs. I think it's related to the screwed up DVD_VR file structure it's using on the DVDs. If I figure something out on that I'll post back.

Kind of a negative sounding note, but we really do like our unit. It's a good DVD player, has a great picture, and being able to record soooo many hours on the hard drive is just awesome! We've fixed the remote problem, are on our way to fixing the fan problem, and I'm sure the DVD file issue can be fixed too.

THANKS for the feedback, take care,

Steve

I read on another web site that the FCC will require that all TV's and TV recording Devices manufactured after March 2007 will be required to include a Digital Tuner.

I read an earlier post quoting a Polaroid tech stating that a newer model of this unit will be comming out in 2007 with a Digital Tuner. It will not be HDTV but will be able to tune HDTV siginals and down convert for recording.

I have bought one of these (k)models for a family Christmas Present. Now I am wondereing if I should return it.

How important will a digital tuner be?
How will Analog cutoff Feb 2009 effect Cable TV frequencies, will they change to?

Isn't a HD signal down conveted a much cleaner signal than an Analog signal?
(some are doing this now thru the component inputs from a HD TV, How is the quality? It would be nice to use an internal timer and tuner to get digital)

Has anyone heard more about this new unit? How much it will cost? When available?

Gturn

I read on another web site that the FCC will require that all TV's and TV recording Devices manufactured after March 2007 will be required to include a Digital Tuner.
From what I've read around here, this is not entirely accurate. My understanding is that they will be required to have a digital tuner IF they have any tuner at all. Not sure how much difference that IF part may make though.

Yes and it is only an ATSC tuner which is for OTA - over the air broadcasts. Whether or not a QAM tuner (for cable) will be included is not generally known. Even if a QAM tuner is included you will only be able to pick up channels in the "clear". Which means unscambled channels which will be those that are available over the air in your area. The mandate just pertains to an ATSC tuner for over the air reception - rabbit ears.

I have a question. I had the Polaroid for a short time. I'm thinking about trying again with a newer model letter if I can find one. So, I had one disk made. It doesn't play in one of my players. So, I tried to rip the disk and put it on another blank disk with DVD decrytor as a whole disk read ISO file.

Well, as it was going I got tons and tons of errors. "Can't find pack header" errors I think. Then the program gave up and stopped working. Never could get the disk to rip. Well, this "error" is the exact same errors I use to get with my old Lite on 5007 unit. It did the same thing. Some disks ripped some didn't but they all had tons of pack header errors. Then I got a Lite on 5005 and it also had the same errors but it was able to rip disks.

I was wondering, is it because I had a "D" model that happened or does it this happened to everyone's disks? That "D" unit reminded me of an exact Lite on 5007 unit except with a hard drive. I'm wondering if I get a newer model will I get the same errors or has things been fixed? Just like Lite on had trouble with their older 5007 units and fixed some things in their newer 5005 models.

Also, I'm wonder too about the tuner thing too. I wonder if Polaroid will stop making the unit between now and next year? I would hate to get one now and find a digital tuner in next year's model; but I would hate to wait thinking they will come out with a new model and Walmart decides not to carry that model next year or Polaroid decides not that many people bought the unit and decide not to make it anymore. Some companies and stores stick it out like Panasonic but some companies and stores try to get something made cheap, sell for cheap, get as much money as they can for a short time and then pull out or carry something else. It looks like Walmart has done things like that. Polaroid here this year. Then later they can't get any orders into the stores, then they don't carry that line anymore. I think they did that with Lite on and Ilo a couple of years ago.

GREAT! Ours is a D model also, so I'll take a leap and assume ours is the same. I'll do a little more surfing for fans and get something ordered in the next day or so. Once I have the new one installed I'll post back what I used and how it works.

Our picture is great too!

Our remote also sucked, but the Radio Shack LED really did fix the problem. It's not too hard to do, but prying it apart is kinda hard. Start at the front by the LED, pinch the sides and it should open up a little, stick something thin in the crack and work it around and it should come right apart. BTW, Polaroid is showing a spare remote is available for ordering on their web site, $15 I think, I think I'm going to order a spare.

Our clock wont auto set correctly (WAY off on time and it sets the date to 2003!). Setting it manually works OK, but it runs a tad fast so I reset it weekly.

We've had no issues burning DVDs with TY 8x +R inkjet printables. We do have an annoying playback issue though . . . if we play a disc burnt in the Polaroid on a GE1101PA, 1101PB, or Apex 1500 it works fine EXCEPT when you hit fast forward . . . when you do that it goes into warp drive and zips right to the end of the disc! Not a huge deal, but it would be nice to be able to skip commercials on the burnt discs. I think it's related to the screwed up DVD_VR file structure it's using on the DVDs. If I figure something out on that I'll post back.

Kind of a negative sounding note, but we really do like our unit. It's a good DVD player, has a great picture, and being able to record soooo many hours on the hard drive is just awesome! We've fixed the remote problem, are on our way to fixing the fan problem, and I'm sure the DVD file issue can be fixed too.

THANKS for the feedback, take care,

Steve

Regarding mounting the fan trying to eliminate noise, take a look at what the "quiet pc" guys have to offer in rubber grommets:
I Can't post the link till I do five posts on this forum, so go to accesories on
end pc noise dot c_o_m

My bet is that these gizmos are available at many places on the web.

I have a question. I had the Polaroid for a short time. I'm thinking about trying again with a newer model letter if I can find one. So, I had one disk made. It doesn't play in one of my players. So, I tried to rip the disk and put it on another blank disk with DVD decrytor as a whole disk read ISO file.

Well, as it was going I got tons and tons of errors. "Can't find pack header" errors I think. Then the program gave up and stopped working. Never could get the disk to rip. Well, this "error" is the exact same errors I use to get with my old Lite on 5007 unit. It did the same thing. Some disks ripped some didn't but they all had tons of pack header errors. Then I got a Lite on 5005 and it also had the same errors but it was able to rip disks.

I was wondering, is it because I had a "D" model that happened or does it this happened to everyone's disks? That "D" unit reminded me of an exact Lite on 5007 unit except with a hard drive. I'm wondering if I get a newer model will I get the same errors or has things been fixed? Just like Lite on had trouble with their older 5007 units and fixed some things in their newer 5005 models.

Also, I'm wonder too about the tuner thing too. I wonder if Polaroid will stop making the unit between now and next year? I would hate to get one now and find a digital tuner in next year's model; but I would hate to wait thinking they will come out with a new model and Walmart decides not to carry that model next year or Polaroid decides not that many people bought the unit and decide not to make it anymore. Some companies and stores stick it out like Panasonic but some companies and stores try to get something made cheap, sell for cheap, get as much money as they can for a short time and then pull out or carry something else. It looks like Walmart has done things like that. Polaroid here this year. Then later they can't get any orders into the stores, then they don't carry that line anymore. I think they did that with Lite on and Ilo a couple of years ago.

Are you talking about read errors as reported in DVD Decrypter? I just tested two discs. One was recorded back in September using the Polaroid stock burner. The other was recent and burned on an external burner (Sony) I have hooked up to the Polaroid. I used DVD Decrypter version 3.5.4.0 and ripped to my notebook pc in both file and ISO mode and had no read errors. Hope this helps. By no means a double blind test but no read errors yet.

As to your second question. Check with your crystal ball. And report back. ;)

From what I've read around here, this is not entirely accurate. My understanding is that they will be required to have a digital tuner IF they have any tuner at all. Not sure how much difference that IF part may make though.

I am sure you are right, they can still make Monitor only TV's.

My concern was the digital turner in the DVD recorders. I get my HDTV siginal from a UHF Antenna and get a great picture and a lot of different stations. (about 30 HDTV channels if you count all the sub channels). I have Limited Basic Cable as well but watch mostly HDTV because it is so much better.