I don't think anyone has mentioned any resolution. I have it when I play back on my Phillips 642 DVD but I'm pretty sure (but need to verify) that my Oppo 971 handled Poloroid disks without an issue but I need to test again that to be sure.

If you're referring to the high rate of FF/Rew -- particularly in 2x, 3x, 4x etc... this has not be "resolved". I doubt if it will be either.

I note that burns directly to the DVD replay (FF/Rew) better than burns that are placed on the HDD before dubbing to disc. I proposed that it might be a compression issue, but I haven't done the math to see how space is used on HDD vs disc.

My theory had to do with compression in general. Because HQ, SP, SP+, & EP all have to create the same size pixel frames, something has to happen to store longer play info in the same amount of space. That something has to be increased compression. And, maybe flags are also used to direct any DVD player on how to uncompress the data. It may be that many DVD players have trouble with the way the Polaroid flags/compresses the frames. But, it's odd that regular playback speeds don't have a problem.

You know what? I think you might be okay with the 500gb HDD. See this thread here http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=9788235&&#post9788235

It might be a failure secondary to ATA 133 not the size of the drive. I bet an ATA 100 would work fine regardless of the size

Let us know what you decide!

Thanks, if I go with it I'll report back.

This is a result of the way you recorded it. Because the cablebox knows the material should be WS and because you told it to output a 4:3 signal (by selecting 480i vs 480iWide), your cablebox is transmitting blackbars to be recorded on your DVD. YOU DON'T WANT THAT! You want a tall, skinny squished picture that stretches to the correct aspect ratio.

Ok, now i understand how you are getting it. Unfortunately, my box doesn't offer 480IWide. I only have 480I, 480P, 720P & 1080I. It's a Comcast Motorola DCT3416. Plus the zoom feature on the cable box is disabled so i can't even zoom it with the cable box before the Polaroid to work around it. Setting the flag isn't a problem because i was then transfering them to disk via Toshiba XS52 and 54 which sets the flag. Or with the pc using infoedit. I have a Philips DVDR that accepts component 480P in but i assume that would be the same result as 480I. I'll have to check the settings on the cable box and see if there is some submenu that may have the wide option.
Thanks for the help.

My STB is SA 8300HD w/Passport software. It doesn't offer "480iWide" either. But I can get the same out of components using two settings. One is the 480i output, the other is the Aspect Ratio of TV to 16:9. I also have it set to add sidebars on 4:3 content, no stretching or zooming. This gives me a true widescreen signal to the recorder, dvd's with no letterboxing. I've been using +RW's and then taking them to computer, adding the flag and then burning to +R's.
If you mess around a bit in your STB settings, you'll probably be able to find the right ones to get what you're after.

peace.
unl0aded

My STB is SA 8300HD w/Passport software. It doesn't offer "480iWide" either. But I can get the same out of components using two settings. One is the 480i output, the other is the Aspect Ratio of TV to 16:9. This gives me a true widescreen signal to the recorder, dvd's with no letterboxing.

I assume you're saying the STB has an Aspect Ratio setting for 16:9. If I'm understanding you correctly, this should do the same thing.

For a dish receiver, the procedure could easily be the same. (Maybe it has an aspect setting?)

On my STB, I actually had to call the cable provider who gave me a set of keys to press during start-up (after unplugging). This gave me a screen that asked for the available aspects and resolutions.... I added 480iWide -- which wasn't a default choice.

Every box & provider can be different. Keep trying!!!!!

I'm on my 3rd polo. Last night, I let it run out while recording directly to DVD. The DVD had 4 titles on it.

After it auto finalized, the disc was essentially unreadable in any of my other players. It will play about 2 min into the disc, then skip to the end. This was the EXACT same issue with all 3 recorders. A "D", a "K", and now an "H" unit.

The behavior is exactly the same, the display on my Sony is exactly the same (the counter went negative).

This is obviously not a "defective" recorder or bad disc. It is a flaw in the design. Because it can still read the disc itself, it has to be related to compatibility and/or native design. In other words, there may be a class of players with a certain chip set that could still handle it.... Or it may be that the polo simply writes something it can only understand?

As this is happening with DVDs that contain multiple titles and because it can't handle lots of titles either, it would be fair to say it has some "issues". (Another thread referenced within the last page says this player was designed by a group that was on drugs. That may be true!)

I think the player is designed with the INTENT that you burn to HDD then to DVD. This could not happen because you simply could not "overfill" the DVD when dubbing from the HDD. It may even allow more than the 20 title limit that justin and I proposed -- if you dub them from HDD. I haven't tried that yet.

(My 1st two units were still bad though. One seemed to have a bad chipset, the other had the optical drive completely fail (and the fan)). I'm not prepared to say this unit is also "defective". Just LIMITED.

Good info. I would avoid recording directly to the DVD burner.

I always record to the HDD first. When I edit out content it actually reduces the size of the recording if it is done on the HDD. When recording directly to a disc it just hides the material. Most of my recordings are movies so I usually trim the end and sometimes the beginning. Plus I archive to HDD so I don't really burn to disc that often.

Even if I do plan on burning to disc I prefer to record to the HDD first. I believe the laser in the DVD burner will last much longer doing it this way. If recording 2 hours to disc the laser is working for 2 hours. By recording to the HDD first and then burning to disc the laser is in use less than 20 minutes - less than 10 with my Sony external burner. That is a 6 times and 12 times reduction in lens use respectively.

Use the HDD.

(My 1st two units were still bad though. One seemed to have a bad chipset, the other had the optical drive completely fail (and the fan)). I'm not prepared to say this unit is also "defective". Just LIMITED.

Has anybody contacted Polaroid to see if there is a firmware update? If i remember right, this unit is made by Philips and i know they are known for putting out updates frequently. My first Philips, in a matter of months had 3 firmware updates for burn problems. I quit updating once the recorder started working correctly. I figured i would leave it until I have further problems. I checked Polaroids site but didn't find anything there.

Has anybody contacted Polaroid to see if there is a firmware update? If i remember right, this unit is made by Philips and i know they are known for putting out updates frequently. My first Philips, in a matter of months had 3 firmware updates for burn problems. I quit updating once the recorder started working correctly. I figured i would leave it until I have further problems. I checked Polaroids site but didn't find anything there.

I'm not so sure anymore that these are made by Philips. My opinion now is that both the Philips and the Polaroid are based on the LSI development kit. Thus the similarities. User and setup menus for example.

There are a lot of DVD recorders based on this kit that are sold worldwide. Packard Bell, Denver, Eltax. There are many others and it looks like the new RjTech is as well.

Also, what these all may have in common is that they are produced by the same Chinese factory (Shinco? Sampo?). Philips contracted with the factory just like Polaroid did. If this is the case then firmware updates would be managed by the company that contracted with the factory.

Just a thought.

Thanks for the info DLSDO!

You might want to reconsider the 500gb HDD. Early experience was thought to be successful but later failed. 320gb was the largest confirmed to work best I can remember.

Even if you can get the 500gb drive working it is physically a huge number of titles to scroll through. When I scroll through my 250gb drives it's a bit cumbersome.

Edit-

You know what? I think you might be okay with the 500gb HDD. See this thread here http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=9788235&&#post9788235

It might be a failure secondary to ATA 133 not the size of the drive. I bet an ATA 100 would work fine regardless of the size

Let us know what you decide!

One more thing to consider if installing a 500GB drive into the Polaroid case is power consumption. Larger drives usually consume more power. I'm not sure if this would stress the Polaroid power supply but it would be a concern.

This of course would not be a problem if used externally with an external power source.

I just contacted Polaroid customer service about the burn problems. I haven't come across any but i haven't burned many disks, so i described the problems mentioned in this thread. I was told there was no firmware update avaiable and was told to send the unit in for exchange. At least they are willing to replace the unit rather than send it in for repair.

Good info. I would avoid recording directly to the DVD burner.
....I believe the laser in the DVD burner will last much longer doing it this way.

If recording 2 hours to disc the laser is working for 2 hours. By recording to the HDD first and then burning to disc the laser is in use less than 20 minutes - less than 10 with my Sony external burner.

That is a 6 times and 12 times reduction in lens use respectively.

Use the HDD.

This is good advice that I hadn't thought of. Because I had noticed that recording directly to the DVD resulted in better FF/REV performance (and possibly better playback quality), I've continued to press the recording-direct-to-DVD option. Also, I'm not sure that lasers have a "limited life expectancy", but certainly the unit, alignment, and moving parts could wear out faster!!!! (With my second unit, I don't think the laser failed, I bet the alignment did).

From my experience so far, I see why recording the HDD first may be the most reliable option -- especially considering what you just pointed out. (Users, should avoid messing with chapter markers as much as possible in either case).

I think recording to HDD, then splitting into multiple titles (to serve as chapters) may be the best option (if you want quick access to points in your video). Keep in mind the FF/REW performance is worse when going to HDD first, but creating break points with titles could be the "answer". I'm still guessing that 20 should be your limit, but that's still a lot of chapters in a 1 or 2 hour recording.

Also, even if quality is worsened by going to the HDD first, it's not that much. I can see a few more "jaggies" on a 10' movie screen. On a smaller screen the difference is probably negligible.

It's too bad we can't get a good word on updates, software issues, etc... Maybe something delivered to Polo -- in writing on behalf of this forum's members -- might get a response? Nahhhh. They'd B.S. us anyway....

I see where the Pioneer is listed as a better option (in a recent link to another post), but its price seems significantly more. For the $$$, this unit may still have some potential -- if we can just figure out it's quirks! ARRRRGGGGGG!!!!!!!!

gp

I just contacted Polaroid customer service about the burn problems. I haven't come across any but i haven't burned many disks, so i described the problems mentioned in this thread. I was told there was no firmware update avaiable and was told to send the unit in for exchange. At least they are willing to replace the unit rather than send it in for repair.

Please post or link us to contact info!

I think recording to HDD, then splitting into multiple titles (to serve as chapters) may be the best option (if you want quick access to points in your video). Keep in mind the FF/REW performance is worse when going to HDD first, but creating break points with titles could be the "answer". I'm still guessing that 20 should be your limit, but that's still a lot of chapters in a 1 or 2 hour recording.

It's too bad we can't get a good word on updates, software issues, etc... Maybe something delivered to Polo -- in writing on behalf of this forum's members -- might get a response? Nahhhh. They'd B.S. us anyway....

I see where the Pioneer is listed as a better option (in a recent link to another post), but its price seems significantly more. For the $$$, this unit may still have some potential -- if we can just figure out it's quirks! ARRRRGGGGGG!!!!!!!!

gp


Creating separate titles on the disk might be a work around but isn't this going to give you a pause in playback when it moves from title to tile?

I think people should start calling in to let Polaroid know what is going on. Returning the unit to the store for a new one isn't going to help if they all do the same. This is just basic editing and play back features that even the cheapest of brands handle ok. It is obviously a software issue. I really like the recorder, and plan on keeping it but i would like to see these issues resolved.

Going to the pioneer or any other brand is an option, but don't forget the flexibility we have with this one like upgrading the hard drive. That was a big selling point for me. Plus the component in, the picture quality is much better. I get better contrast and brighter colors vs s-video.

I contacted Polaroid support at 1-866-289-5168

One more thing to consider if installing a 500GB drive into the Polaroid case is power consumption. Larger drives usually consume more power. I'm not sure if this would stress the Polaroid power supply but it would be a concern.

This of course would not be a problem if used externally with an external power source.

Sam's has the following unit with 250GB for approx $80: WD2500JBRTL. Would this WD drive work okay as an internal upgrade?

I guess I'm seriously considering the merits of staying with the Polo and work to it's strengths.

The FF thing was discussed a few months ago. Maybe longer. But in pretty good detail.

People get different results depending on how they use the machine. For example my FF works fine - or good enough. But I use the Polaroid to record movies and always record to the HDD using the 10 minute auto chapter setting. I tested some burns on about 7 or 8 other players and what I saw was basically this. The FF worked up to 2X I believe. Anything faster defaulted to the chapter marks. It would FF chapter to chapter - no faster. Which was fine with me. I have never seen the "hyper speed" thing. Maybe with bigger chapters it could look like a hyper advance. Don't know.

I then decided to go back and test some burns I did on other recorders. All the way back to burns done on a Pana e30 - the old third generation model. I had similar problems with FF on players. I then spent some time researching other forums about FF problems. There seems to be a universal consensus that FF can be a problem. Whether authored on a DVD recorder or even authored on a PC with software. There was a lot of posts complaining about the issue. So I wrote it off to **** happens. And moved on.

I don't use FF much but if I did I can see how it could be an annoyance.

Sam's has the following unit with 250GB for approx $80: WD2500JBRTL. Would this WD drive work okay as an internal upgrade?

I guess I'm seriously considering the merits of staying with the Polo and work to it's strengths.

That drive should work fine.

I think we need a baseline on what is going on with the "problem" of burning directly to disk.

Is YesDVD the method used?

If so, are DVD+R/RW used since they are the only media that work with YesDVD?

What are the settings for recording, such as SP, length of program/s, menus, chapter marks, etc?

It certainly sounds like YesDVD since the disk finalizes automatically, which, I believe, is a function of YesDVD. My burns with DVD-RW do not finalize automatically.

The reason I ask is that I have used direct to disk without YesDVD on and burn to DVD-RW. I have seen no issues with quality between direct burn or HD burns and I have a 9' screen and projector. (As an aside, the picture from the burned or HD image is actually better than the live picture from the Svideo cable input.)

I have tried to schedule 2 hour recordings directly to disk at SP and the Polaroid has nicely told me that it would not fit, so I trim off some time or shift to SP+.

I set 5 minute chapter marks and get the expected 23 marks in a 2 hour recording. I have also added chapter marks, trimmed out commercials, and had no problems with -R media. But I do not use YesDVD.

Like nextoo I use 2x and chapter marks to get around on my panny player. One nice thing is I have two Polaroids so take the -RW from one and play it in the other with no finalizing and no problems with FF. The one thing I do miss with the -RW is the "commercial skip" (30 second advance and 10 second back) feature when on the HD, since it does not work with a DVD.

Something is going on here that many of us have not seen, and I hope it is YesDVD, since then we can try that and see what the issues may be. I only have a few +RW media and no +R at all, so am limited in what I can do. But first we need to know just what the steps are in getting to the problem.

The FF thing was discussed a few months ago. Maybe longer. But in pretty good detail.

People get different results depending on how they use the machine. For example my FF works fine - or good enough. But I use the Polaroid to record movies and always record to the HDD using the 10 minute auto chapter setting. I tested some burns on about 7 or 8 other players and what I saw was basically this. The FF worked up to 2X I believe. Anything faster defaulted to the chapter marks. It would FF chapter to chapter - no faster. Which was fine with me. I have never seen the "hyper speed" thing. Maybe with bigger chapters it could look like a hyper advance. Don't know.

I then decided to go back and test some burns I did on other recorders. All the way back to burns done on a Pana e30 - the old third generation model. I had similar problems with FF on players. I then spent some time researching other forums about FF problems. There seems to be a universal consensus that FF can be a problem. Whether authored on a DVD recorder or even authored on a PC with software. There was a lot of posts complaining about the issue. So I wrote it off to **** happens. And moved on.

I don't use FF much but if I did I can see how it could be an annoyance.

OK, I started a response, then I noticed something. I thought the Polo and my other player acted this way, but on a dvd I just recorded the Polo is fine, (2x, 4x, up to 32x FF & Rew) Only the other Player I have was does 2x only with no rewind (without serious jumping) that's what I mind most.

So are most able to rewind without a problem? If so I'll have to find another/better playback unit for my next one

And to answer the older question, yes for whatever reason auto clock seems to have been the cause of my jumping problem. And it would only jump while recording to the HDD. Even since I turned that feature off, I've had no problems

B.

Sam's has the following unit with 250GB for approx $80: WD2500JBRTL. Would this WD drive work okay as an internal upgrade?

I guess I'm seriously considering the merits of staying with the Polo and work to it's strengths.
The 250 gig 2 meg cache one Woot blows out every so often worked fine in mine , same drive series as the original 80 that's in it, just larger.
They blow them out every so often for around 50-60 shipped.

The 250 gig 2 meg cache one Woot blows out every so often worked fine in mine , same drive series as the original 80 that's in it, just larger.
They blow them out every so often for around 50-60 shipped.

Welcome back Dartman! :)

Thanks, I check the thread but usually I don't have much to add so I just surf through but thought mentioning the Woot 250 gig again might be worthwhile to some people who haven't went through this whole thread. They must have bought a million of those drives as it comes up on most Wootoffs and probably once every few months there for a while.
I'm mainly using my Polaroid for overflow recordings and when 2 shows I like are on at the same time.
Hoping somebody releases a digital/QAM capable tuner model with a big drive, HD would be even better.... :cool:

Thanks, I check the thread but usually I don't have much to add so I just surf through but thought mentioning the Woot 250 gig again might be worthwhile to some people who haven't went through this whole thread. They must have bought a million of those drives as it comes up on most Wootoffs and probably once every few months there for a while.
I'm mainly using my Polaroid for overflow recordings and when 2 shows I like are on at the same time.
Hoping somebody releases a digital/QAM capable tuner model with a big drive, HD would be even better.... :cool:

Yep. ATSC with HD passthrough and a HDD.....Seems to make logical sense. Precisely why they are nowhere to be found.

Thanks, I check the thread but usually I don't have much to add so I just surf through but thought mentioning the Woot 250 gig again might be worthwhile to some people who haven't went through this whole thread. They must have bought a million of those drives as it comes up on most Wootoffs and probably once every few months there for a while.


Thanks Dartman. I'm one of those new members who hasn't yet read all the great stuff on this thread. Your reply is appreciated and I'll keep an eye out for the 250 you suggested.

I'm still early in the 90-day warranty period on the latest unit I'm checking out, an F-series. I'm not in a big hurry to upgrade just yet. Thanks again.

Well it seems that most IDE drives will work but it's also been mentioned that some may draw more juice then the little Power supply in the unit can take so they might not work. Nextoo has done a ton of mods with his and has stuffed in a 500 gig maxtor 16 meg cache I think he said and it worked as well so odds are good most should work but just in case...
And as far as a HD dvd recorder with a big drive I'm sure the entertainment industry is fully against it but we can dream, probably end up with a HD/BD unit of some sort or even the VMHD disk or whatever it is the Chinese are trying to make... ;)

And as far as a HD dvd recorder with a big drive I'm sure the entertainment industry is fully against it but we can dream, probably end up with a HD/BD unit of some sort or even the VMHD disk or whatever it is the Chinese are trying to make... ;)


I never thought I would look at China and see the land of the free!

Well it seems that most IDE drives will work but it's also been mentioned that some may draw more juice then the little Power supply in the unit can take so they might not work. Nextoo has done a ton of mods with his and has stuffed in a 500 gig maxtor 16 meg cache I think he said and it worked as well so odds are good most should work but just in case...
And as far as a HD dvd recorder with a big drive I'm sure the entertainment industry is fully against it but we can dream, probably end up with a HD/BD unit of some sort or even the VMHD disk or whatever it is the Chinese are trying to make... ;)
My attempt at using a 500GB drive failed. It was a maxtor ata133. The drive worked fine until it went over the 80GB mark. Then it would not perform. It was the only one I tried. Not sure if it was the brand or the size. I use the Western Digital 250GB drives with both the 2 meg and 8 meg cache with no problems.

Well that may be the Power supply limit or something else but that nextek machine recomends WD drives because of the low power draw.
Did you get a Nextek and if you or anyone did does it now have a stereo tuner and normal audio rather then the low audio and mono tuner I have now?

Dartman - do you mean RjTech? If so here is a link where it is being sold;

http://www.ncix.com/products/index.php?sku=21627&promoid=0

There are some forum questions at the end of the page. It looks like somebody from RjTech will jump in and answer questions.

Yep, thats the one I meant, if they get a stereo tuner in it it would be pretty sweet. I'd be willing to bet it does minus as well, they just don't list it for whatever reason.
I have purchased from NCIX before and except for taking way too long for a Canada express post package to arrive it was a fine transaction into the USA and their prices are usually very good.

OK, I posted a question about the tuner, lets see what they say, they do seem to answer questions in that forum.

Yep, thats the one I meant, if they get a stereo tuner in it it would be pretty sweet. I'd be willing to bet it does minus as well, they just don't list it for whatever reason.
I have purchased from NCIX before and except for taking way too long for a Canada express post package to arrive it was a fine transaction into the USA and their prices are usually very good.

OK, I posted a question about the tuner, lets see what they say, they do seem to answer questions in that forum.

Let us know. My guess is that its a Polaroid clone with a mono tuner.

My attempt at using a 500GB drive failed. It was a maxtor ata133. The drive worked fine until it went over the 80GB mark. Then it would not perform. It was the only one I tried. Not sure if it was the brand or the size. I use the Western Digital 250GB drives with both the 2 meg and 8 meg cache with no problems.
There's a thread I ran into when looking into upgrading the hard drive in the Accurian recorder where it was found there can be an insufficient memory issues with handling the file index for the drive. It seems that might be what caused the 500Gb Maxtor to fail when it reached a certain number of recordings, since having more files don't cause a drive to draw more current but does mean a larger index file(s).

I was thinking about trying an ATA100 500GB drive, but now probably will stay with something smaller unless I can find a cheap 500Gig locally that's easy to return.

BTW a little trivia on fans... I opened my K model yesterday and after putting the cover back on and replacing only three of the screws that hold it on, I powered it on and the fan started making the loud noise that a few people reported with the K model after it's used for a while. In my case the sound must have been caused by the fan touching the case cover after I reassembled it, because I was able to make the noise disappear by lifting on the cover at the spot where the fan's located.

The fan on my K is rated at .06A whereas on my E it's rated at .16A. That explains why the E has a little more fan noise...would be interesting to know what kind of temp difference is between the two versions but I didn't have a probe to measure this and I returned the E today. The E could not keep accurate time when time was set to "Auto" setting and it's DV input couldn't detect the video from my Panasonic PV-DV601 cam. I would've kept the E if the K didn't come along just last week despite the flaws, but glad the K came in just under two weeks of the 90 day return period of the E. They took it back no questions asked, unlike the poor stiff on another thread who got only a merchandise credit for returning a recorder over 30 days after purchase.

One thing about my K model. It's sold as new and package like a new unit, but I suspect it was refurbed. There were minor finish blemishs on the cover and drive bracket, and a few of the screws were not threaded in as well as on the E unit and seem like it had be reassembled before.

Have read the whole thread, twice :) Lots of reading.

I finally got my "C" model hooked up and working. I am dissappointed that it does not do the pass through when powered off. I have it hooked up through composite (have an LG DVD player feeding the component input) for now as I do not have High Def for now. I have seen it posted several times in error that the "C" model does pass through while powered down. Yet, early on in the thread it was also stated by one or more persons that the "C" model does not pass through.

I also have noted a bit of contrast (?) with this version. Color bleeds on television. I am not so sure this is directly related to the Poloroid, or if it is my Television, as I have a little problem with it from my settop box. It just seems a touch more exagerated witht he Poloroid. Though I have recalibrated my set on both inputs since installing the Poloroid, and the color bleed is minimal now.

I have copied one show to harddrive so far. Star Wars, have not burned to disc yet.

I have one question for the group, I know it was answered in the thread waaaaaay back, but I forgot how to do it.

When editing, or burning a DVD, how do you change the picture for the thumbnail picture?

Thanks so much for any help, The thread has been educational.

DaMountainMan.

I have one question for the group, I know it was answered in the thread waaaaaay back, but I forgot how to do it.

When editing, or burning a DVD, how do you change the picture for the thumbnail picture?

DaMountainMan.

The only way that I found to do it is after you burn a program to DVD (I have found no way to do it when the program is on the HDD) and, of course, before you finalize a disc. Select DVD, press > to show the edit menu and select edit to enter the editing mode. Item 6 is Index Picture. What I do is hit pause when I get to the frame that I want (usually the title) and then toggle down to "index picture" and then press the OK button. That frame is now selected as the index picture. You can then hit stop and finalize the disc unless you have more editing that you want to do.

Improved remote responsiveness and "power off" passthrough ability with the "K"

DLSDO: I found this entry by you a few pages back. I'm still checking an F-series unit with an K-series unit (with TV interference on some channels with weak signals).

I must say due to other priorities, I'm not moving fast at all in checking out the F-series.

In any case I have developed an impression for one reason or another that the K-series units are somehow superior to others. I know I'm repeating but please comment again regarding the K-series passthrough "power off" ability of the K-series units.

Do the F-series units not have this improvement?

DLSDO: I found this entry by you a few pages back. I'm still checking an F-series unit with an K-series unit (with TV interference on some channels with weak signals).

I must say due to other priorities, I'm not moving fast at all in checking out the F-series.

In any case I have developed an impression for one reason or another that the K-series units are somehow superior to others. I know I'm repeating but please comment again regarding the K-series passthrough "power off" ability of the K-series units.

Do the F-series units not have this improvement?

Sure :)

All the units except "B" will passthrough the video signal when powered off. For example. If you run wall cable to your STB then output the STB by component to your Polaroid then run component to your TV you can power off the Polaroid and still view 1080i on your TV.

A very handy feature.

If you have the same set-up with a "B" unit and power off the Polaroid you will see nothing on your TV!

[QUOTE]Have read the whole thread, twice :) Lots of reading.

Twice! Make's me tired just thinking about it.

I finally got my "C" model hooked up and working. I am dissappointed that it does not do the pass through when powered off.

One question. Do you have input and output from the Polaroid through the same port with the same connection?

In other words. Composite in and out by RCVBS. If these criteria are not met none of the units will passthrough the signal. If its Composite in (RCVBS) and out (FCVBS) or Composite in rear and Component out rear it will not passthrough.

Does this make sense? I think I may have done a poor job describing it. Let me know.

Thanks Bill, that is what I needed to know.

[QUOTE]because I was able to make the noise disappear by lifting on the cover at the spot where the fan's located.

I was able to reproduce that obnoxious start up fan noise under these conditions.

1)With the cover on or off
2)With the fan disconnected from its attachment to the unit
3)With the fan powered by an external power source

This suggests to me that its a defective fan. I simply replaced it and have had no problems since ;)

DLSDO. I do have composite in, from cable box, composite out of Poloroid to television. The C model will not pass through when powered off. This observation has been made in the thread on a couple occasions. Hope this helps. I would not want anyone to buy a "C" model expecting to get pass through while powered off. Hope this helps.

DaMountainMan

[QUOTE=netstroller]


I was able to reproduce that obnoxious start up fan noise under these conditions.

1)With the cover on or off
2)With the fan disconnected from its attachment to the unit
3)With the fan powered by an external power source

This suggests to me that its a defective fan. I simply replaced it and have had no problems since ;)
These cheap 40mm fans don't seem to be very durable, mine's still working fine but it's getting replaced with something better made when I can include one as part of a bigger order to save on shipping cost.

DLSDO. I do have composite in, from cable box, composite out of Poloroid to television. The C model will not pass through when powered off. This observation has been made in the thread on a couple occasions. Hope this helps. I would not want anyone to buy a "C" model expecting to get pass through while powered off. Hope this helps.

DaMountainMan

Thanks.
Good info. I was not aware that the "C" units had this limitation also. :)

[QUOTE=DLSDO]
These cheap 40mm fans don't seem to be very durable, mine's still working fine but it's getting replaced with something better made when I can include one as part of a bigger order to save on shipping cost.

I agree. Shipping will cost more than the fan is worth. I used the fan out of a HDD enclosure that I raided.

FWIW- I successfully attached many different size fans(2 & 3pin), to the board directly and externally powered by a converting wall molex and also by USB.

The option are endless.

They have little fans that automatically adjust their speed based on temp. I considered a laptop cooler. Its basically a board that you could set the Polaroid on that is powered by any available USB port that keeps the temp at a predefined setting. Could remove the Polaroids fan in this scenario. Good for an enclosed location with poor ventilation.

Just thinking out loud. ;)

They took it back no questions asked, unlike the poor stiff on another thread who got only a merchandise credit for returning a recorder over 30 days after purchase.

I just returned my K unit (2nd unit) last Sunday. I'd purchased it on 1/10/07. They refunded my money also. (Course I mentioned that I'd already picked up another one from a different location).

The FF thing was discussed a few months ago. Maybe longer. But in pretty good detail.

People get different results depending on how they use the machine. For example my FF works fine - or good enough. But I use the Polaroid to record movies and always record to the HDD using the 10 minute auto chapter setting. I tested some burns on about 7 or 8 other players and what I saw was basically this. The FF worked up to 2X I believe. Anything faster defaulted to the chapter marks. It would FF chapter to chapter - no faster. Which was fine with me. I have never seen the "hyper speed" thing.

To clarify, one press of my player is all I can do before "hyper-speed" occurs. Hyperspeed to me is the jumping from chapter to chapter as you describe. But, different players may/may not continue jumping chapters -- my primary player does. This means I can be at the end of the disc in a couple of seconds.

I continue to find that DVDs recorded directly do a better job of FF than HDD to DVD dubs. That 20-min to complete dubbing seems to use additional compression during the dubbing phase. I can see it more when pausing one that's burned direct vs dubbed. Pauses on dubs are jaggier.

I just got a -RW from a friend. He recorded an NCIS for me. When I played it, the FF/Rew worked perfect. As a result, I'm going to try that media type and see what difference (if any) there are.

Creating separate titles on the disk might be a work around but isn't this going to give you a pause in playback when it moves from title to title?
It does.

This (FF issue) is just basic editing and play back features that even the cheapest of brands handle ok.
Do I believe you or Nextoo's post I quoted above? Is it really handled well on a regular basis? I still wonder about the native chip/engine in each recorder and each player's compatibility with different media. For example, the Polo seems to favor +RW/+R while my player (and Sony recorders in general) favor -RW/-R media.

Just because a player is "compatible" with all types of media, does that mean it should handle all speeds well (FF/REW)?

I really like the recorder, and plan on keeping it but i would like to see these issues resolved....I think people should start calling in to let Polaroid know what is going on.

Going to the pioneer or any other brand is an option, but don't forget the flexibility we have with this one like upgrading the hard drive. That was a big selling point for me. Plus the component in, the picture quality is much better. I get better contrast and brighter colors vs s-video.

I contacted Polaroid support at 1-866-289-5168
Agree on all points. I would add that switching to a Pioneer seems more costly too. Also, I'm starting to like the HDD. HDD equipped Pioneer's aren't cheap!

I don't know if calling Polaroid would help. I'd be willing to do it, but the smuck answering the phone has no connection to the non-english speaking programmer/tech that's building them overseas. Plus, how do we know they have an easy means or motivation to "fix" and recorder that "works"? And, are production runs over?

BTW:
My biggest gripe isn't the FF issue, it's the disks that are unreadable (after finalization) in other players. The FF issue doesn't prevent you from playing a disk!

------

As for the fan issue, I wonder about the lack of vents. I do not see adequate venting for the fan. After mine is out of warranty, I'm thinking of punching holes in the cover.... (less heat in the case may help with fan longevity as well as opt drive/HDD longevity).

Edit:
The person answering the phone isn't the smuck. He's the poor sap working for the smucks who wouldn't even want to hear about our complaints. You know.... Polaroid management/owners.....

Hello im new to this Site and got one of these and i need some major help w/ this damn dvd player my friend was playing w/ the setup and now we cant see crap nothing just is there away to reset the dvd player ?? cuz i cant see nothing just plane black Screen w/ a little white i can hear audio

Hello im new to this Site and got one of these and i need some major help w/ this damn dvd player my friend was playing w/ the setup and now we cant see crap nothing just is there away to reset the dvd player ?? cuz i cant see nothing just plane black Screen w/ a little white i can hear audio

If you're using the component interface, you may have the unit turned on and are inputting something other than a 480i signal. If you turn the unit off and see a picture, start looking for a control on the device you're feeding to the Polaroid.

Another option is you're sending a progressive signal to an interlace display device. This option is selected thru menu or by pressing the IS/PS button on your remote (Interlaced scan/Progressive scan).

Also, try pressing the input button to make sure you're still on the correct source.

gp

Done !!! Thanks alot =0) a was about to go buy me another one and return the other one

I've had my #F0600 for a couple of weeks now and love what it can do but sometimes I do get frustrated with the burner in this unit. I started with -R and
-RW media because it was what I had on hand. Everything seemed to work fine at fist but after about 4 or 5 disks burned, everyone after that became a coaster--couldn't be read in the Polaroid nor any of my computers.

I then bought a Sony DVD burner and tried it out and it works great--on all media. I then got some +R disks (Verbatim from Sam's) and decided to hook up the internal burner again. I was able to burn 4 or 5 disks with the integrated burner, no problem. Then, tonight a tried another couple of +R media and they turned out to be coasters, unreadable in any drive (couldn't be finalized).

It might be a heat issue as the unit was on for a while before I tried burning tonight. But I'm thinking this unit is built for a price, so how good can the internal burner be? I can always use the Sony externally, I guess, but I'd prefer to have a buttoned-up box with the internal drive.

I've thought about taking it back and getting another but I'm not sure the results would be any different.

But I'm thinking this unit is built for a price, so how good can the internal burner be? I can always use the Sony externally, I guess, but I'd prefer to have a buttoned-up box with the internal drive.

I've thought about taking it back and getting another but I'm not sure the results would be any different.

I agree. You've got to understand the limitations of this unit. Can be hit and miss with the internal burner. I do little burning but when I do I utilize the external set up like you have described. More advanced editing gets done on the laptop.

I agree. Returning the unit with hopes for a "better burner" would likely be disappointing.

I've had my #F0600 for a couple of weeks now and love what it can do but sometimes I do get frustrated with the burner in this unit. I started with -R and
-RW media because it was what I had on hand. Everything seemed to work fine at fist but after about 4 or 5 disks burned, everyone after that became a coaster--couldn't be read in the Polaroid nor any of my computers.

I then bought a Sony DVD burner and tried it out and it works great--on all media. I then got some +R disks (Verbatim from Sam's) and decided to hook up the internal burner again. I was able to burn 4 or 5 disks with the integrated burner, no problem. Then, tonight a tried another couple of +R media and they turned out to be coasters, unreadable in any drive (couldn't be finalized).

It might be a heat issue as the unit was on for a while before I tried burning tonight. But I'm thinking this unit is built for a price, so how good can the internal burner be? I can always use the Sony externally, I guess, but I'd prefer to have a buttoned-up box with the internal drive.

I've thought about taking it back and getting another but I'm not sure the results would be any different.

I'm on my 3rd Polaroid now (a "K" unit). On this 3rd go-round I had an initial problem with what I thought was another failing optical drive (lots of coasters) and loosing the ability to use the "YesDVD" feature on DVD's burned from my home video tapes. What I discovered is that I was using garbage media bought on sale (TDK DVD-R's) which was the source of all my problems. First of all, the YesDVD feature only works on +R/+RW disks, not -R. More importantly, high quality blank media is essential for the Polaroid, or any other DVR unit to produce good results. I went out and bought a pack of Sony DVD+R's, and it's been working perfectly ever since. If anyone is interested, check out this website for great information on DVD Media Quality: www.digitalfaq.com/media/dvdmedia.htm What I learned is that it's not the brand on a blank DVD that matters -- it's the media ID that is important, as it reveals the manufacturer. Those Verbatims you got from Sam's could be the problem. Of course a better quality external burner (i.e. the Sony) might be more "forgiving" on poor quality media, but starting out with the best blank DVD's you can find will certainly improve your odds on any burner.

OK, now that I've had a chance to examine this in the light of day I think there may be something else going on here...maybe even user error? (!!) The disks I thought were coasters were simply empty disks. I took one to a computer drive and was able to write 4.x GBs to it. But I still can't figure out what is going on.

I'm trying to write a two-hour movie recorded at SP+ to a disk. I load the disk, press HDD on the remote and then as the menu says, Add/Clear the selection I want and press the Record button. The screen shows the little recording icon in the upper left hand corner but disappears after about 20-30 seconds. I can repeat this and each time I pick the movie from the hard drive the top line shows say 82% of the optical disk will be used. This is the same procedure I've used before that has worked in the past, I have good DVDs to prove it.

It's almost as if there is something that the Polaroid finds disagreeable with the media or the recording process

The funny thing is if I swap out to the Sony burner and follow the same procedure as above, it works.

The Verbatim media I'm using shows up as 1st class (MCC004) media in DVD Decrypter. I've used other brands as well with similar results.

I might add that I'm not really expecting a solution to this unless I'm doing something stupid someone sees as obvious. I can certainly live with the external burner.

I'd also add that this forum is great with all the info and experiences people have posted. It really makes the difference between being able to use this box and tossing it out the window. I've been through the whole thread in a couple of weeks and have copied to a file some of the things I thought would be useful to remember, which sort of makes up for the unintelligible manual.

Thanks.

OK, now that I've had a chance to examine this in the light of day I think there may be something else going on here...maybe even user error? (!!) The disks I thought were coasters were simply empty disks. I took one to a computer drive and was able to write 4.x GBs to it. But I still can't figure out what is going on.

I'm trying to write a two-hour movie recorded at SP+ to a disk. I load the disk, press HDD on the remote and then as the menu says, Add/Clear the selection I want and press the Record button. The screen shows the little recording icon in the upper left hand corner but disappears after about 20-30 seconds. I can repeat this and each time I pick the movie from the hard drive the top line shows say 82% of the optical disk will be used. This is the same procedure I've used before that has worked in the past, I have good DVDs to prove it.

It's almost as if there is something that the Polaroid finds disagreeable with the media or the recording process

The funny thing is if I swap out to the Sony burner and follow the same procedure as above, it works.

The Verbatim media I'm using shows up as 1st class (MCC004) media in DVD Decrypter. I've used other brands as well with similar results.

When you reconnect the internal optical drive- orientation of the IDE is secure and correct....yes? Also consider trying another IDE cable. I have had IDE cables go bad.

I'm trying to write a two-hour movie recorded at SP+ to a disk. I load the disk, press HDD on the remote and then as the menu says, Add/Clear the selection I want and press the Record button. The screen shows the little recording icon in the upper left hand corner but disappears after about 20-30 seconds. I can repeat this and each time I pick the movie from the hard drive the top line shows say 82% of the optical disk will be used. This is the same procedure I've used before that has worked in the past, I have good DVDs to prove it.

It's almost as if there is something that the Polaroid finds disagreeable with the media or the recording process
.

I'm a novice so excuse me if I'm chiming in like an expert. Make sure you have your setup quality set for SP+, i.e., the DVD quality and the original HDD record have to be the same quality, in this case SP+.

Just a thought!

I'm a novice so excuse me if I'm chiming in like an expert. Make sure you have your setup quality set for SP+, i.e., the DVD quality and the original HDD record have to be the same quality, in this case SP+.

Just a thought!

No "experts" here. Just varying degrees of "experience". All input is welcome. ;)

(Good point by the way)

I've had my #F0600 for a couple of weeks now and love what it can do but sometimes I do get frustrated with the burner in this unit. I started with -R and -RW media because it was what I had on hand. Everything seemed to work fine at fist but after about 4 or 5 disks burned, everyone after that became a coaster--couldn't be read in the Polaroid nor any of my computers.

I then bought a Sony DVD burner and tried it out and it works great--on all media. I then got some +R disks (Verbatim from Sam's) and decided to hook up the internal burner again. I was able to burn 4 or 5 disks with the integrated burner, no problem. Then, tonight a tried another couple of +R media and they turned out to be coasters, unreadable in any drive (couldn't be finalized).

It might be a heat issue as the unit was on for a while before I tried burning tonight. But I'm thinking this unit is built for a price, so how good can the internal burner be? I can always use the Sony externally, I guess, but I'd prefer to have a buttoned-up box with the internal drive.

I've thought about taking it back and getting another but I'm not sure the results would be any different.

I've had 3 units myself. I am afraid of "minus" discs for the reason you point out. On my first two units, everything worked fine UNTIL I tried -R media. Then +R media wouldn't work as well. I really don't think the internal drive (at least on some batches) does well with minus data.

I wonder if the drive is somehow pushed harder when writing minus media. For example, maybe the finalization process throws the "head" around more? And, once the opt drive is pressed, it may begin to fail (at least sooner than expected).

Try Sony +Rs (from Walmart/Sams) and see what happens. If they don't work -- consistently, I think it's worth looking for another unit (preferably later serial too). Then stay away from minus media -- if you can.

BTW, what ext drive (Sony) did you buy?

I'm trying to write a two-hour movie recorded at SP+ to a disk. I load the disk, press HDD on the remote and then as the menu says, Add/Clear the selection I want and press the Record button. The screen shows the little recording icon in the upper left hand corner but disappears after about 20-30 seconds. I can repeat this and each time I pick the movie from the hard drive the top line shows say 82% of the optical disk will be used. This is the same procedure I've used before that has worked in the past, I have good DVDs to prove it.

The funny thing is if I swap out to the Sony burner and follow the same procedure as above, it works.

The Verbatim media I'm using shows up as 1st class (MCC004) media in DVD Decrypter. I've used other brands as well with similar results.

Sounds like a bad burner (or cable -- if you're using different cables for the int vs. ext drive.

...high quality blank media is essential for the Polaroid, or any other DVR unit to produce good results. I went out and bought a pack of Sony DVD+R's, and it's been working perfectly ever since.

I second this observation.


I would also add that you should NOT completely fill a DVD -- unless you're only writing one title (even then... I don't know). I now make it a practice to leave around 1 min empty on each disk. The only unreadable disk in my 3rd unit -- with Sony +R media had 4 titles and was completely filled to auto finalization.

Everything else has worked! Yessssss.


.
.
.
(I'm also going to repeat a couple of things... FF definitely works "better" if you write directly to disc -- without going to HDD first. However, I think editing works much better on the HDD. For example, multiple titles, chapter names, and chapter marks REQUIRE the use of the HDD to get reliable results. In other words, don't do much editing directly on a DVD. In fact, avoid it -- if possible. The good news is that better titles and chapter marks reduces your "need" to FF.

Oh yeah. I do think this unit is cheap -- especially the burner and software. But it's a cheap unit with a component interface and decent HDD! If you can learn to deal with the crap, the price, the interface, the video quality, and the modularity make it worth the head bruises. (bang head against wall now).

gp

BTW, what ext drive (Sony) did you buy?

Not directed to me...but .....Sony DRU 120C. FWIW :)

I have a Sony AW-Q170A-B2 running in one unit and a firmware modded NEC 3500A running in my second Polaroid. I have successfully run two other DVDRW's a Lite-on SHM-165H6S and a LG GSA-H01L.

To be clear... the above posts reference optical drives, right? Can you buy a dual density drive (or expanded drive of some sort) and expand the amount of video (time) you can burn to a DVD?

For HDDs, I've been wondering about a couple of things lately. For this recorder and my 8300 cablebox, they have HD's in them. Of course, so do personal computers. In a PC, you format and setup a HD before use. At least that was required before the plug and play days!

I haven't done a hard drive install recently, but I wondered about this part of buying a HD for a non-PC device. For example, my 8300 cablebox says you can add an external drive to expand storage. (SATD or something like that). I looked them up on a computer website and they sell for $60-$80 in a size that would double my capacity. However, I'm afraid to buy one because of the formatting issue. For those who've installed an external drive in the polo, do you have any insight?

gp

To be clear... the above posts reference optical drives, right? Can you buy a dual density drive (or expanded drive of some sort) and expand the amount of video (time) you can burn to a DVD?

For HDDs, I've been wondering about a couple of things lately. For this recorder and my 8300 cablebox, they have HD's in them. Of course, so do personal computers. In a PC, you format and setup a HD before use. At least that was required before the plug and play days!

I haven't done a hard drive install recently, but I wondered about this part of buying a HD for a non-PC device. For example, my 8300 cablebox says you can add an external drive to expand storage. (SATD or something like that). I looked them up on a computer website and they sell for $60-$80 in a size that would double my capacity. However, I'm afraid to buy one because of the formatting issue. For those who've installed an external drive in the polo, do you have any insight?

gp
Yes, I was referring to optical drives I've tried. I haven't attempted to write to dual layer. Someone tried without success. I have to believe the firmware on the Polaroid isn't up to it.

As far as hdd's go I won't guess on your 8300 but it sounds like a Sata drive or possibly E-Sata? My D* HD DVR has an E-Sata port which can be used but installing esata on it wipes out the internal drive's saved programs I think.

The Polo does it's own formatting without you doing a thing at all. You can put a brand new ide drive in (stick with ata 100 not Maxtor ata 133 drives) and you will be good to go. I believe nextoo even used some previously formatted by windows and had no problems. I would write zeros to a drive previously formatted though just to eliminate potential issues.

Formatting presents no issue in this instance. If you do try external you will have to adapt a longer (18" or better) ide cable by grinding or filing down the nub on the blue connector on the cable because the Polo's connection on the motherboard is reversed/flipped but does not have the traditional slot for the nub on the connectors. Ide cables have a red edge note how the cable the Polo uses is installed. You will need to match your new longer ide's red edge to the Polo. To do it the nub needs to be removed. You will also need to provide power to the drive. Most of us are using usb/ide converters that come with a 12v power supply and just utilizing the power for the drive.

Yes, I was referring to optical drives I've tried. I haven't attempted to write to dual layer. Someone tried without success. I have to believe the firmware on the Polaroid isn't up to it..

Indeed! Hey z3scott. Longtime no see. :)

My Sony DRU-120C does DL!! But not in the Polaroid as z3scott has described. I agree it is a firmware issue. When I want to burn a 1+ hr movie to DL I split the title on the HDD, record to RW's, hook the Sony external burner to the laptop, load in the RW's, merge the titles then shrink or burn to DL.

The Sony is an external burner I use instead of the Polaroids internal optical drive.

Indeed! Hey z3scott. Longtime no see. :)

My Sony DRU-120C does DL!! But not in the Polaroid as z3scott has described. I agree it is a firmware issue. When I want to burn a 1+ hr movie to DL I split the title on the HDD, record to RW's, hook the Sony external burner to the laptop, load in the RW's, merge the titles then shrink or burn to DL.

The Sony is an external burner I use instead of the Polaroids internal optical drive.
Howdy DLSDO I've been following along but been too busy playing with 'puters as of late.

Did you try a DL disk or was it nextoo?

Hi Guys,

I've been mia for a while, just busy at work. During all my crazy hours the Polaroid has came in darn handy! I haven't missed a favorite show yet!

A bigger hard drive would be sweet though and since I'm past the 90 warranty any way I'm thinking it's time for a bigger hard drive.

Have we settled on the 250gb Western Digital as the best choice?

I'm just looking at bang for the buck and the Western Digital WD3200JB 320gb isn't much more expensive so I'd opt for it if I were sure it would work.

I scanned the forum and did some searches but I didn't find much except that a Maxtor ATA133 500gb didn't work and it seems the 250gb WD is the most recommended, but I was just wondering if that's just what's been handy to try and others haven't been tried yet?

Soooo, what's the scoop? What's the largest working hard drive that's been installed? (make/model please!).

Thanks!

Steve

I second this observation.


I would also add that you should NOT completely fill a DVD -- unless you're only writing one title (even then... I don't know). I now make it a practice to leave around 1 min empty on each disk. The only unreadable disk in my 3rd unit -- with Sony +R media had 4 titles and was completely filled to auto finalization.

Everything else has worked! Yessssss.



My guess is with YesDVD and multiple titles you do not get the warning message I got when I tried to record a 2 hour scheduled SP program directly to disk. Also guess that with the additional titles you go over the space needed for everything and the last program records but possibly incompletely so the disk either does not finalize or is corrupted. In either case it will be unreadable on other drives. If corrupted, it will not be read on the Polaroid either.

I had this happen on my panny ES-20. I did not know why then but it may have been the same as your experience, multiple titles and a lack of overhead. Makes sense because you can burn if you make a little more space. If I recall correctly, the disk file size on the computer was very small even though it should have been over 4 gigs. I did not have a problem with a single two hour title.

Another point for the data base.

If you watch a HD recorded program and are nearing the end, you can push the chapter forward button and advance to the next recorded program on the HD.

But.... if you are recording a scheduled program and it is the next program on the HD, the Polaroid will not advance to the program being recorded but will freeze at the end of the program you are watching. Also, not one button on the remote will work. The Polaroid will be in another universe and you will have the last frame displayed of the program you watched frozen on the screen.

The Polaroid will record the scheduled program but will not reset itself. You need to push and hold the power button to turn it off and then it will return to normal.

I record several shows in the am, mostly weather and sports. Weather reports come on at different times so I record a block of time and capture the weather plus news on either side. Sports are at set times. So it is easy to skip to the weather, watch it and hit chapter advance to get to the next show. Also, when a show goes naturally to the end or I use the time skip button, at the end the display will return to HD. So I thought I could get there quicker with chapter advance and the machine froze when it tried to go to the next program, which was a scheduled program and still recording.

A bigger hard drive would be sweet though and since I'm past the 90 warranty any way I'm thinking it's time for a bigger hard drive.


I have a 400gb Samsung in mine and it's over 1/3 full and haven't had any problems at all so far.

The one thing i've been wondering about is if you do a lot of recording and deleting is this going to become a problem with fragmented files. Since there is no defrag option on the polaroid the only way to fix that would be to wipe it out. This would be true for any size drive.

Has anyone tried to physically replace the optical drive in the unit vs using an external drive?

One thing that bugs me is the OSD that comes up when you set a timed recording. This is a problem since i sometimes record on both the Polo and the Tosh at the same time. And since the Tosh is fed from the Polo it records the picture with the OSD. I called Polaroid and they said there is no way to disable/shut off this unless you do it manually during the recording. A 5 second display would have been sufficient.

Has anyone else had a problem with the picture quality? Specifically a flicker of sorts. I have 2 units, and one seems to have a problem. For a split second the picture brightness jumps. Almost like a camera flash. Seems to happen every 10 or 15 seconds or so. It's possible that the STB tuner caused the problem, but I think it's the recorder. I have 2 Poloroids, and an RCA and I've been trying to decide which to keep. I'm using two different STB tuners as well. The only "flicker" I've seen is on the one Poloroid. The other Poloroid had some issues with responding to the remote last week, but last night it worked perfectly. I plan to return one Poloroid, but I'm not sure about the remote problems returning.

Howdy DLSDO I've been following along but been too busy playing with 'puters as of late.

Did you try a DL disk or was it nextoo?

Tried and failed by direct connect Sony with Polaroid to DL. I think it's probably a Polaroid firmware issue.

[QUOTE]I have a 400gb Samsung in mine and it's over 1/3 full and haven't had any problems at all so far.

Very nice!!

The one thing i've been wondering about is if you do a lot of recording and deleting is this going to become a problem with fragmented files. Since there is no defrag option on the polaroid the only way to fix that would be to wipe it out. This would be true for any size drive.

I think your concern is valid. But I would not worry too much. I have a Motorola BMC 9022 HD-DVR with a little 160gb HD. This puppy is on 24/7 constantly recording live and archived info for years!! It has no defragmentation abilities either. The HDD has yet to crump but it will eventually. If you do not have your Polaroid in a buffer mode and occassionally record and erase you should get a lot of life out of that drive. Years and years in my estimation.

Another option is to save important material to DVD. And just use the HDD for transient material.

On the other hand. If you archive material to the HDD that you plan to keep and only use that drive for occassional viewing and grow your collection in this way, then your HDD's will out live you and I!

Has anyone else had a problem with the picture quality? Specifically a flicker of sorts. I have 2 units, and one seems to have a problem. For a split second the picture brightness jumps. Almost like a camera flash. Seems to happen every 10 or 15 seconds or so. It's possible that the STB tuner caused the problem, but I think it's the recorder. I have 2 Poloroids, and an RCA and I've been trying to decide which to keep. I'm using two different STB tuners as well. The only "flicker" I've seen is on the one Poloroid. The other Poloroid had some issues with responding to the remote last week, but last night it worked perfectly. I plan to return one Poloroid, but I'm not sure about the remote problems returning.

Make sure to check the cables. I have had a similar problem secondary to this.

Make sure to check the cables. I have had a similar problem secondary to this.

Yeah, I'm going to check it out some more. I bought 3 recorders and I'm planning to keep just one, but can't decide. The RCA has worked without issue. Mostly I'm just using the hard drive. One Poloroid has the flicker, the other seems good now, but the remote issue from last week has me worried a little.

I'm getting anxious to return the other recorders, but the issues are holding up the decision.

I want to thank everyone for the awesome job they've done on updating this thread with things that they've come across. I've been following it for a while but haven't caught up from the last couple of months. I have a few questions which I couldn't find any updates to in my searches.

1) Has anyone found a solution to the fast forward and rewind problems for burnt dvds?

(a) I remember reading that recording it by the YESDvd option doesn't have this problem but is there a way to record the dvd this way after editing all the segments? (which I believe is 16 total, right?)

(b) As an alternative is there an easy way to get the video file from the Polaroid to a computer to edit and author the dvd that way instead?

2) I know this is a pretty dumb question but is there an easy way to get back to the source input that has my program on from a menu (such as HDD). If I hit the "setup/exit" button I will always get the menu setup screen (instead of exiting back out of the HDD screen) and I have to end up hitting the input button repeatedly until I can get back to my source input from which I was originally on.

3) What exactly is time shift? I couldn't understand from the manual and I'm not quite sure how it works (besides enabling it from the setup menu). Is it pretty much the ability of using it like a DVR where I can pause live TV? Like a DVR, would I be able to start recording a program to the HDD and then restart watching it from the beginning to bypass commercials?

Thanks for all of the help, guys!

Has anyone else had a problem with the picture quality? Specifically a flicker of sorts. I have 2 units, and one seems to have a problem. For a split second the picture brightness jumps. Almost like a camera flash. Seems to happen every 10 or 15 seconds or so. It's possible that the STB tuner caused the problem, but I think it's the recorder.

I know it's the Polo recorder. I'm betting the serial # starts with something lower than an H. I believe that some component on the board (whether it be the LSI chip or something else) is failing. It will get worse and you will get outright blooming in some scenes (overcooked brights).

I saw this problem mentioned somewhat frequently early in this thread -- but not much recently. I'm guessing this issue was resolved in later batches.

My first D unit had the brightness blooming problem. Take note. If this issue seems to correspond to changes in the contrast in the scene playing (vs randomly), that will confirm it. Somehow the chip is slow to respond to the contrast changes. Eventually, scenes will nearly wash out. Return/exchange it.

gp

How does one go about copying from disc to HDD.
I know the answer is somewhere on this thread but i can't find it.

How does one go about copying from disc to HDD.
I know the answer is somewhere on this thread but i can't find it.
Can't be done with the Polo to my knowledge... you'll need to dub the dvd via the analog inputs.

2) I know this is a pretty dumb question but is there an easy way to get back to the source input that has my program on from a menu (such as HDD). If I hit the "setup/exit" button I will always get the menu setup screen (instead of exiting back out of the HDD screen) and I have to end up hitting the input button repeatedly until I can get back to my source input from which I was originally on.

Hit the input button (the one that cycles through all the sources). When you're in optical or hdd mode, it will start at the last selected input source.

I put composite cable from my Apex rear to the Polo front and set the Polo on F-Comp and I'm backing up Casino Royale. Before this I had to do it on my computer with Ripit4me and DVD shrink. I lost some other discs I purchased so I decided I need to backup.

I put composite cable from my Apex rear to the Polo front and set the Polo on F-Comp and I'm backing up Casino Royale. Before this I had to do it on my computer with Ripit4me and DVD shrink. I lost some other discs I purchased so I decided I need to backup.

Does your Apex have S-Video output? That would give a noticeably sharper picture for recording.

Can't be done with the Polo to my knowledge... you'll need to dub the dvd via the analog inputs.
IIR Nextoo was able to do this with one but not the other of the DVD file formats, the same format used by the Accurian recorder. I haven't tried it though.

Yes it does. I'll give that a try next week. That way I'll be able to compare composite to S-Video. Thanks

I know it's the Polo recorder. I'm betting the serial # starts with something lower than an H. I believe that some component on the board (whether it be the LSI chip or something else) is failing. It will get worse and you will get outright blooming in some scenes (overcooked brights).

I saw this problem mentioned somewhat frequently early in this thread -- but not much recently. I'm guessing this issue was resolved in later batches.

My first D unit had the brightness blooming problem. Take note. If this issue seems to correspond to changes in the contrast in the scene playing (vs randomly), that will confirm it. Somehow the chip is slow to respond to the contrast changes. Eventually, scenes will nearly wash out. Return/exchange it.

gp

It's an F unit... :(
Well that narrows things down a little I guess. Do you recall anyone having a remote that was almost non-functional? Mine's working fine now, but recently it would hardly work from 2 feet away with either the original remote or using a programable remote.

Do you recall anyone having a remote that was almost non-functional? Mine's working fine now, but recently it would hardly work from 2 feet away with either the original remote or using a programable remote.

You may have pushed the "wrong" buttons and it hung up. See my earlier post on how the chapter forward button hung up my Polaroid. I could push every button on the remote (harmony 880) and nothing would happen. Pushed and held the machines power button and shut it down, restarted and all was well. My guess it it gets confused with certain button sequences.

I ran into this with programmers. They knew how it should work but never counted on us dummies who do not and who push buttons in the "wrong" sequence and destroy their wonderful programs. Sounds like that is at work here.

I have a Sony AW-Q170A-B2 running in one unit and a firmware modded NEC 3500A running in my second Polaroid. I have successfully run two other DVDRW's a Lite-on SHM-165H6S and a LG GSA-H01L.
Could someone advise or point to a thread to explain how to replace the Polaroid internal DVD burner with another such as one indentified in the above quote?

I've searched but can't seem to find this. I thought I had read how to exchange the burner somewhere in this thread.

I'm not particularly interested in connecting another burner to run "external" of the Polo case. In view of the burner problems folk have had with this recorder, I'd like to be able to plug and play another burner if I ever need to, that is, and have the burner inside the case.

You may have pushed the "wrong" buttons and it hung up. See my earlier post on how the chapter forward button hung up my Polaroid. I could push every button on the remote (harmony 880) and nothing would happen. Pushed and held the machines power button and shut it down, restarted and all was well. My guess it it gets confused with certain button sequences.

I ran into this with programmers. They knew how it should work but never counted on us dummies who do not and who push buttons in the "wrong" sequence and destroy their wonderful programs. Sounds like that is at work here.

This was a problem that went on for several days or more. The recorder was turned off and on several times. It became almost unusable, so I switched to the other recorder, and when I switched back recently, all was fine. So the unit was unplugged for a while. Do you suppose unplugging the unit remedied the problem?

Could someone advise or point to a thread to explain how to replace the Polaroid internal DVD burner with another such as one indentified in the above quote?

I've searched but can't seem to find this. I thought I had read how to exchange the burner somewhere in this thread.

I'm not particularly interested in connecting another burner to run "external" of the Polo case. In view of the burner problems folk have had with this recorder, I'd like to be able to plug and play another burner if I ever need to, that is, and have the burner inside the case.
I tested all of these externally. To use any drive internally I think you would have to remove the faceplate and the tray faceplate of course then pull the existing drive and replace it with the new one. Then remount the existing sliver tray faceplate. Not sure if anyone has done it but that ought to work. Due to different units having varied lengths you would want to match the length of the replacement drive to the existing one, or at least make sure the replacement wasn't too long. Alignment would be key also to ensure the Polaroid's tray faceplate is properly closing.

So the unit was unplugged for a while. Do you suppose unplugging the unit remedied the problem?

Yes, since this is the classic thing to do when all else fails on just about any electronic equipment.

I do not know the why of it, but my guess is there are probably capacitors or other storage devices which store a charge for a certain amount of time and after that time the program is re-set to default. If turned on before they discharge, you return to the state you were in when you pulled the plug. So it may be built in to equipment just to handle problems like we had. Your long off made sure everything was re-set to default and the problem was cleared. With mine, it was re-set with the power off hold, another way to re-set the machine, but not lose all the settings. Sort of a two step way of re-setting the machine if the first fails. (There is a third, going to set up and restoring defaults, but we could not do that with a non working remote.)

Happy to hear from others who actually know the why of it.

Yes it does. I'll give that a try next week. That way I'll be able to compare composite to S-Video. Thanks

Even better. Does your DVD player have component out? This will give you the best picture quality for recording to your Polaroid.

I'm afraid there is no component out. Thanks anyway DLSDO

I'd like to be able to plug and play another burner if I ever need to, that is, and have the burner inside the case.

This was my thought, too, but I don't see how it can be done. I removed the internal burner and it has a unique shape. With the disc tray closed the tray sticks out in front of the body of the dvd drive, so it can poke out and into the slot in the front of the machine (does that make sense?). I haven't seen another drive like it. I've used the Sony model mentioned here but it doesn't have this profile and is much larger, so it has to be used externally.

This was my thought, too, but I don't see how it can be done. I removed the internal burner and it has a unique shape. With the disc tray closed the tray sticks out in front of the body of the dvd drive, so it can poke out and into the slot in the front of the machine (does that make sense?). I haven't seen another drive like it. I've used the Sony model mentioned here but it doesn't have this profile and is much larger, so it has to be used externally.

Could it be that opt drives have an adjustment on the drawer which could acheive the profile you describe?

I've commented before that FF/Rev performance differs depending on whether you burn directly to DVD vs using the HDD first. (It's better if you burn straight to the DVD).

It occurs to me there is a reason. When you dub from HDD to DVD, it takes considerably less time to write the disc. Burning is obviously happening at an accelerated rate. In addition, compression may be used to transfer the data across the internal bus faster. It must be the accelerated burning and/or additional compression that causes further loss in FF performance....

I also wonder how SP on the polo compares to a commercial DVD. In other words, just because 2 hrs can be placed on a DVD doesn't mean similar "density" exists, right? In other words, maybe HQ is still half the density of commercial quality though it still occupies twice the space? And, SP could be 1/4 the density? This might explain the limitations of FF/Rev.....

Hit the input button (the one that cycles through all the sources). When you're in optical or hdd mode, it will start at the last selected input source.

Thanks. I think my problem was with the remote itself trying, trying to even get it to respond to the player, and I think I hit the input button one time too many causing me to have to cycle through it all over again.

I've commented before that FF/Rev performance differs depending on whether you burn directly to DVD vs using the HDD first. (It's better if you burn straight to the DVD).

It occurs to me there is a reason. When you dub from HDD to DVD, it takes considerably less time to write the disc. Burning is obviously happening at an accelerated rate. In addition, compression may be used to transfer the data across the internal bus faster. It must be the accelerated burning and/or additional compression that causes further loss in FF performance....

I also wonder how SP on the polo compares to a commercial DVD. In other words, just because 2 hrs can be placed on a DVD doesn't mean similar "density" exists, right? In other words, maybe HQ is still half the density of commercial quality though it still occupies twice the space? And, SP could be 1/4 the density? This might explain the limitations of FF/Rev.....

Ahhh, I will have to try this out to see how it works out. Too bad it limits the editing options beforehand. Thanks for the info. Hopefully, someone figures out a good way to eliminate the FF problem when transferring to DVD from the HDD.

Could it be that opt drives have an adjustment on the drawer which could acheive the profile you describe?
It might be that the entire faceplate of the replacement drive needs to be removed. That might provide some difference in depth between the tray and the drive case. Since my original drives are still in place and I never attempted to pull them I can't say for sure.

This was my thought, too, but I don't see how it can be done. I removed the internal burner and it has a unique shape. With the disc tray closed the tray sticks out in front of the body of the dvd drive, so it can poke out and into the slot in the front of the machine (does that make sense?). I haven't seen another drive like it. I've used the Sony model mentioned here but it doesn't have this profile and is much larger, so it has to be used externally.

It's called a loader type dvd drive and if you take the guts out of the case of the other drive you may be able mount it into the plastic chassis of the old drive, if the basic length is the same.
Or possibly make custom mounts for the new drive so you can teak and adjust everything till it lines up properly. You will have to remove the trays face plate and use the one from the polaroid. I didn't get any of my burners working better then the factory one so I didn't go into it farther but with enough patience and tweaking you can make some work.
Loaders are the bare drives without the outer metal casing or anything and most players and burners use some form of one.

I also wonder how SP on the polo compares to a commercial DVD. In other words, just because 2 hrs can be placed on a DVD doesn't mean similar "density" exists, right? In other words, maybe HQ is still half the density of commercial quality though it still occupies twice the space? And, SP could be 1/4 the density? This might explain the limitations of FF/Rev.....

Remember that the commercial DVD file size is normally larger and is often dual layer, which is why there are programs like DVDShrink, to compress the files so they fit on a single layer disk.

There should not be any further compression of an SP file on the Polaroid HD when it transfers to the DVD. You have already done all the compression needed when you recorded in SP. The commercial disk may be HQ but probably has a variable bit rate like the Panny and many others have with FR mode.

If I recall, you do your direct to disk recording using YesDVD. If so, it might be that YesDVD is more compliant with the standards than the transfer from HD to DVD. YesDVD does have a lot of additional features available.

Remember that the commercial DVD file size is normally larger and is often dual layer, which is why there are programs like DVDShrink, to compress the files so they fit on a single layer disk.

You have already done all the compression needed when you recorded in SP. The commercial disk may be HQ but probably has a variable bit rate like the Panny and many others ...

I thought dual layer DVDs allowed the user to exceed 2hrs/disc. You think commercial disc have variable bit rate, huh? Interesting. Hadn't heard this...

There should not be any further compression of an SP file on the Polaroid HD when it transfers to the DVD. You have already done all the compression needed when you recorded in SP.

That would have been my assumption as well. But, there's no denying that you get another "notch" on FF/Rev -- if you skip the dub. Something makes it different. Are you sure that faster burning rates (i.e., 16x vs 8x) doesn't affect compression?

The commercial disk may be HQ but probably has a variable bit rate like the Panny and many others have with FR mode.

FR Mode? (Is this short for FF/Rev Mode?)

If I recall, you do your direct to disk recording using YesDVD. If so, it might be that YesDVD is more compliant with the standards than the transfer from HD to DVD. YesDVD does have a lot of additional features available.

I don't use YesDVD. Never tried it.
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.
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=======
I've yet to try other media besides +R. (I tried a couple of -R's early on -- but threw them away). I wonder if any of the other 3 media types provide better FF/Rev performance?

According to one of the associates at the local Wal*Mart store they soon will be carrying a new Polariod DVD recorder model with a 160GB drive and an ATSC tuner. He did not have the model number but he said that it will sell for $258 and should be available about the middle of April.

It's called a loader type dvd drive and if you take the guts out of the case of the other drive you may be able mount it into the plastic chassis of the old drive, if the basic length is the same.

...with enough patience and tweaking you can make some work.
Loaders are the bare drives without the outer metal casing or anything and most players and burners use some form of one.

I was thinking about that after I posted my comment. But my external is working so well now and it isn't that much of a problem being outside the box that I don't want to change it. However, if I get $25 or so pocket change I might buy another burner and start tweaking, just to see if it can be done.

=======
I've yet to try other media besides +R. (I tried a couple of -R's early on -- but threw them away). I wonder if any of the other 3 media types provide better FF/Rev performance?

Just ran a direct to disk recording with -RW HQ and FF ran flawlessly on my Panny. When I recorded to the HD then disk it only ran FF at 2x then skipped chapters at 4x. So you are absolutely right, something is going on (or not) with the burn from the HD to DVD that effects FF.

Maybe, somewhere buried in the edit menu there is something that might fix it.

Next project.

Another one for the data base-

On several occasions when I tried to enter a scheduled program the start time could only be set to 10 through 12 and I could not change the 1 to a zero. The end time could be changed. This only happened when the actual time was between 10am and 11 am. Before 10am or after 11am, no problem.

According to one of the associates at the local Wal*Mart store they soon will be carrying a new Polariod DVD recorder model with a 160GB drive and an ATSC tuner. He did not have the model number but he said that it will sell for $258 and should be available about the middle of April.

Any way of speculating how good the ATSC tuner in those units will be? For example, any reports on how good the built-in tuners are on Polaroid HDTVs?

[I'm thinking . . . Could Panasonic's tuner on its new ATSC DVD recorders be so good that I'd be willing to give up a hard drive to get it? And yes, I realize we're working with severely limited information. That's why I'm referring to it as "speculation."]

Any way of speculating how good the ATSC tuner in those units will be? For example, any reports on how good the built-in tuners are on Polaroid HDTVs?

I'm guessing that ANY device that comes out now should use the new generation of ATSC chip sets. The new generation of chips are better in that they handle multipath much better than the older chips and they can pull in stations better than the older chips.

A "side benefit" is that a lot of the new chip sets can also handle QAM (for digital cable) but it up to the vendor to include that feature in the hardware (software). It will be interesting to see how many recorders will have ATSC and QAM tuners.

To me a hard drive is one of the most important feature of a DVD recorder. You can always add an external tuner to a box that doesn't have one (which I am doing on one of my DVD recorders).

Another one for the data base-

On several occasions when I tried to enter a scheduled program the start time could only be set to 10 through 12 and I could not change the 1 to a zero. The end time could be changed. This only happened when the actual time was between 10am and 11 am. Before 10am or after 11am, no problem.

I had this happen as well. Only it was at night. It was between 10pm and 12pm. (It might have been before 11pm).

To get the leading 1 to change to a zero, I finally had to change the end time first. I was getting really p.o.'d.....

gp

Just ran a direct to disk recording with -RW HQ and FF ran flawlessly on my Panny. When I recorded to the HD then disk it only ran FF at 2x then skipped chapters at 4x. So you are absolutely right, something is going on (or not) with the burn from the HD to DVD that effects FF.

Maybe, somewhere buried in the edit menu there is something that might fix it.

Next project.

Man, I'd be shocked if you found a setting that would "fix" this problem, but I'm all ears!

If FF ran "flawlessly" on -RW, I guess I should give that a whirl. I can only get 2x with HDD to DVD and 4x when burned straight to DVD. Faster speeds (than 4x) are never available (when reading on my Sony) using +Rs.

Any way of speculating how good the ATSC tuner in those units will be? For example, any reports on how good the built-in tuners are on Polaroid HDTVs?

Well, the recorder is not going to be an HD recorder -- certainly not at the price quoted. So, you're wondering how "good" the ATSC tuner will put out a 480i signal for burning, right?

Having a tuner capable of picking up HD in a device designed to record 480 seems.... I don't know.... like the result of a mandate. But, then again some people might call 480 widescreen "HD".

gp

According to one of the associates at the local Wal*Mart store they soon will be carrying a new Polariod DVD recorder model with a 160GB drive and an ATSC tuner. He did not have the model number but he said that it will sell for $258 and should be available about the middle of April.

Hey folks. This is BIG news! This would be the 1st and only ATSC DVDR with a HDD. Are you certain of this info? He didn't happen to provide a model # did he?

Well, the recorder is not going to be an HD recorder -- certainly not at the price quoted. So, you're wondering how "good" the ATSC tuner will put out a 480i signal for burning, right?

Having a tuner capable of picking up HD in a device designed to record 480 seems.... I don't know.... like the result of a mandate. But, then again some people might call 480 widescreen "HD".

gp
I believe the question of "how good?" for a digital tuner (SD/HD) has more to do with reception issues than video output quality.

A 480i DVD recorder can do a remarkable job recording DVDs from a down-res'd HD source. I use my HD TiVo s-video output to record widescreen HD programs (recorded in SD, of course) on my Pioneer DVD recorder, with outstanding results.

If I record from cable using the internal tuner in the same Pioneer DVD recorder, I get much worse results, due largely to the noise/interference/faint ghosts that are present on the analog cable signal and their impact on the encoding/compression process.

I think an integrated digital tuner and 480i DVD recorder will be a nice package, especially if it keeps the video in the digital domain for downres'ing and recording. Even if there is analog step in the middle, we will still get very clean sources and very good recordings.

Hey folks. This is BIG news! This would be the 1st and only ATSC DVDR with a HDD. Are you certain of this info? He didn't happen to provide a model # did he?
Nope, the Phillips 3575 was the first although that's not shipping yet either - Walmart is supposed to have that also for the same price as the current one.

I had this happen as well. Only it was at night. It was between 10pm and 12pm. (It might have been before 11pm).

To get the leading 1 to change to a zero, I finally had to change the end time first. I was getting really p.o.'d.....

gp

I tried changing the end time and the date but the start time would not change until after 11 real time.

Man, I'd be shocked if you found a setting that would "fix" this problem, but I'm all ears!

If FF ran "flawlessly" on -RW, I guess I should give that a whirl. I can only get 2x with HDD to DVD and 4x when burned straight to DVD. Faster speeds (than 4x) are never available (when reading on my Sony) using +Rs.

Works on my Panny. Many have said that it works on some machines but not on others, however it did not work on the Panny when recorded from the HD but did when recorded directly to disk, which I think is what you have experienced. With the Panny HD to DVD only worked in 2x. 4x sent it into chapter skip.

The problem with issues like this is that most of us do not have a variety of players and we may be out of luck or just great and everyone else wonders just what we do different since it works/does not work with them. It can be the player, media or our secret incantations.

So, for me, I have a solution to the FF problem, but only in my little universe. Hope we hear from other who go the direct to DVD route and see if that fixes it for them also.

Nope, the Phillips 3575 was the first although that's not shipping yet either - Walmart is supposed to have that also for the same price as the current one.

I think the employees got it wrong because the 3575 is our Polaroid with a larger HD.

There is nothing on the Phillips web site.

I think the employees got it wrong because the 3575 is our Polaroid with a larger HD.

There is nothing on the Phillips web site.

The Polaroid is going to sell for $258 at Wal*Mart and the price of the Philips will be $298. The model number of the Philips IS 3575. Philips hasn't put the information on their web site yet (nor has Polaroid) but here is some information about the Philips (I expect the Poraroid model to have the same set of features):

* List price: $359
* PHILIPS DVDR3575H PRODUCT FEATURES - (DVDR3575H/37)
* 1080p HDMI with true high definition video upconversion
* Progressive Scan component video for optimized image quality
* 160GB Hard Drive records all your favorite TV programs
* Dual Media records on both DVD+R/RW and DVD-R/RW
* i.LINK digital input for perfect digital camcorder copies
* Plays DivX, MP3, WMA and JPEG digital camera photos
* Built-in SDTV Tuner for digital television reception (unit has both a NTSC and ATSC tuner)
* USB Direct plays photos and music from USB flash drives
* Pause Live TV lets you take a break without missing a thing

I still haven't been able to find the model number of the new Polariod but I was told (by a Wal*Mart associate) that it is not 3575 (he verified that is the new Philips model).

The phillips has the same features as their own 3505 (already in the store) with HDD added. It will be interesting to see if the Polaroid model changed much from its current form (other than the bump in HDD size and digital tuner). While not listed in the specs I'll assume the 3575 Phillips will also have a QAM tuner like the 3505.

The phillips has the same features as their own 3505 (already in the store) with HDD added. It will be interesting to see if the Polaroid model changed much from its current form (other than the bump in HDD size and digital tuner). While not listed in the specs I'll assume the 3575 Phillips will also have a QAM tuner like the 3505.

Yes. I am also curious if the Polaroid ATSC model with be a clone of the current unit or have modifications. Wonder which HDD/ATSC unit will be available first?

Yes. I am also curious if the Polaroid ATSC model with be a clone of the current unit or have modifications.

If it has a mono tuner, that's a deal-breaker for me. Sure, you can get stereo by routing input from an ATSC tuner, but that takes away a lot of the convenience of recording. I'm looking for a "one box solution" to eliminate clutter.

Wow!...This is exciting..I love my Polaroid and dont need another HDD DVR buuuutt...........If this one is "super great" features-wise...I might buy.

If it has a mono tuner, that's a deal-breaker for me.

Currently, there is no such thing as a mono ATSC tuner. I seriously doubt that ANY vendor will "break" the ATSC specs to give us a mono tuner. The NTSC tuner that these new recorders have is another matter. It could be mono but my bet is that it will be stereo.

I agree, it wouldn't be cost effective to try and cobble together a mono/stereo solution once your all ready making a digital spec tuner anyways. I'm patiently waiting for one to hit my Walmart, has anybody seen a live one yet.
Guess I might have to slap the 80 gig back in the one I have now when one comes around here and upgrade it :cool:

I tried changing the end time and the date but the start time would not change until after 11 real time.

I had this problem several times months ago and got around it but I can't remember how. I remember I just kept fiddling with the times until I got it to do what I wanted.

* Dual Media records on both DVD+R/RW and DVD-R/RW


Thanks. I got the numbers wrong.

Does "Dual media" mean a dual layer recorder or + and - ?

I had this problem several times months ago and got around it but I can't remember how. I remember I just kept fiddling with the times until I got it to do what I wanted.

Same here, but I am not sure if it was because the time was after 11 or something else. Also, you are best off by deleting the entry and starting new.

Does "Dual media" mean a dual layer recorder or + and - ?

It has to do with + and -.
It does not record on DL media.
Thanks Mike

I hate this recorder! I love this recorder! Oh.... I don't know.

As noted recently, I found that burning directly to DVD provides the best special effects (FF/Rev) performance. And, I like to make lots of titles (to use a chapters). Multiple titles enhances your ability to access various points in the video. So, I went back to burning directly to DVD -- while following my suggestion (in an earlier post) of staying under 20 total titles/chapter markers.

I got burned again doing this. Two discs in a row aren't readable on anything but the polo. And, I note the discs are really flawed. When playing them -- even on the polo, they have "issues". For example, every title hiccups 1 minute into play. If I watch the counter, it gets to 1:00 then goes to 0:00. It resets. Also, the title counter is not correct. It simple wrote the DVD wrong. And, this was probably caused by the high number of titles.

As this problem exists on my current unit, prior units, and multiple other units (as noted in this thread), it is VERY clear the unit has a software problem. In practical use, you will find it to have conflicting limitations.

You will not be able to burn directly to DVD to improve FF performance. That's because I'm convinced the software to partition and administer SEVERAL multiple titles does not exist for burning directly to disc. Oh, you can do it -- but at your own risk!!!!!!!!

The unit does a MUCH better job -- if you copy to HDD first, use the menus to make your titles (etc), then dub to DVD. Of course, FF will suffer -- but that's the price to pay for guaranteeing a good burn. It's also necessary to create the entry points to a video -- that I like to see.

But, hey.... the picture is great!!!!! I love it. No wait. I HATE IT!!!!

ARRGGGGHHHH!!!!!

gp

Same here, but I am not sure if it was because the time was after 11 or something else. Also, you are best off by deleting the entry and starting new.
You have to change the hour from 10 to 11 or 12 before changing the first 1 to a 0. This is because it doesn't allow 00 as the hour.

Quote:
Originally Posted by beekeeper
I tried changing the end time and the date but the start time would not change until after 11 real time.



I had this problem several times months ago and got around it but I can't remember how. I remember I just kept fiddling with the times until I got it to do what I wanted.
This can be worked around by first changing the time digit to the right of the one you want to change but can't. After you change that next digit, go back to the one you previously can't change and you'll find that you are now able to change it.

Edit: I see gilljt had this covered already : ) Don't know how to delete this post though...

You have to change the hour from 10 to 11 or 12 before changing the first 1 to a 0. This is because it doesn't allow 00 as the hour.

Thanks.

The Polo FF/REW fine in it's own player for discs I burned. So I'll assume all the FF/REW talk has to do with other unit's playbacks. My Magnavox MWD200F cheepo version will Play, Pause, chapter forward and back, frame advance (I think) It goes FF one speed above play any other FF and ANY rewinds becomes jumps.

Are your other playback models rewinding at any speeds? If so which inexpensive models allow for burned Polo discs to use the rewind function?

Thanks.

Are your other playback models rewinding at any speeds? If so which inexpensive models allow for burned Polo discs to use the rewind function?

Thanks.
My Oppo 971 seems to handle the Polaroid's disks ok (at least in limited tests). I burned some Taiyo Yuden 8x -R's direct (not from hdd) recently and the Oppo handles them fine. I tried some previously in my Phillips 642 and had issues but I think they were from the hdd. I need to hook the Phillips up again and see if it will handle these recent burns.

According to one of the associates at the local Wal*Mart store they soon will be carrying a new Polariod DVD recorder model with a 160GB drive and an ATSC tuner. He did not have the model number but he said that it will sell for $258 and should be available about the middle of April.

I just got back from my local Walmart, and finally saw a shelf-edge sign for the new Polaroid unit referred to by Bill R! (No units were actually in stock, but clearly they are ready to sell them now.) The card lists the number as "DRA-01601A", and it said the unit has a 160 MB Hard Drive, as well as a front USB port and Card Reader. It didn't list any details about the tuner, but I'm hoping the box will have more info about that. The price is $258.

Just found these specs on a google search for the DRA-01601A:

Polaroid DRA-01601A
Polaroid DRA-01601A DVD Player/Recorder - DVD+R/+RW, DVD-R/-RW, CD-R/RW - DVD Video, MP3, JPEG Playback - Progressive Scan - 160GB Hard Disk - 204Hour(s) Recording

Summary:
Record in different quality and length (HQ, SP, LP, EP, SLP)
Easy one-touch recording with auto index creation
Easy editing on recorded video content
Front panel VFD display
YES DVD enabled indexing, commercial detection, auto chaptering, organization, and sharing of multi-media content

Features:
Media Support: DVD+R/+RW - Play/Record
Media Support: DVD-R/-RW - Play
Media Support: CD-R/RW - Play
Formats Support: DVD Video
Formats Support: MP3
Formats Support: JPEG
Recording Time: 204Hour(s) @ HDD
Scanning Modes: Progressive Scan
Hard Drive: 160GB
Video System: NTSC
Video System: ATSC
Interfaces/Ports: USB
Standard Warranty: 90 Day(s)

Just found these specs on a google search for the DRA-01601A:


This looks pretty interesting. I wonder if it will have component In and will it pass through. I guess we won't know until it's out.

This looks pretty interesting. I wonder if it will have component In and will it pass through. I guess we won't know until it's out.

I'm also wondering if retained the Firewire DV input from the DMR 2001G. The new specs only list USB.

I wonder if this does QAM?

I wonder if this does QAM?

I asked but the sales associate didn't know. He even made a call (to somewhere) but couldn't get an answer. He did say that the new models should be in "very soon, maybe this week".

I wonder if this does QAM?
I fell really stupid asking ... but what's QAM?

I fell really stupid asking ... but what's QAM?
Digital cable modulation scheme. You need a QAM tuner to get the unencrypted digital cable chs - a must since cable will be all digital sometime in the future and current gen tuners will be useless.

For some cable system even a "regular" QAM tuner will be useless in the future. Some digital cable systems are moving to switched video and the ONLY thing that you will be able to use on those systems is a STB supplied by your local cable company. They are moving to switched video because of bandwidth constraints. You can read about switched video here (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Switched_video).

Again, it is very unlikely that any cable co will configure their system in such a way as to force everyone to an STB. SV will probably be saved for chs that would normally require an STB anyway - premium chs.

If you live in an area serviced by one of the major cable cos it's a pretty safe bet that you'll have some clear QAM chs (the locals) for the lifetime of the current gen equipment (5 years).

My Oppo 971 seems to handle the Polaroid's disks ok (at least in limited tests). I burned some Taiyo Yuden 8x -R's direct (not from hdd) recently and the Oppo handles them fine. I tried some previously in my Phillips 642 and had issues but I think they were from the hdd. I need to hook the Phillips up again and see if it will handle these recent burns.

Interesting.

Just did some experimenting. I only have one dvd I burned directly and my player appears to rewind and fast forward pretty good at multiple speeds (it was a Yes dvd)

All my other problems have been with ones burned off the HDD. But with my recording of TV programs (and cutting of commercials) and home movies that need editing, I am pretty much stuck with recording off the HDD

Has anyone else had problems with dvd's playing on other units. I burned some old home video and passed them out to my family. Two had problems (on 3 different dvd players) playing the dvds. All 3 were on panasonic players. My one unit (the magnavox mentioned above) and 3 more that my uncle owns (sony, jvc, ???) plays them fine (and I have to check on ff/rew)

I'm hoping to find a player unit with rewind capability (even at the slowest speed)

Then again, I'm excited about the new one being mentioned here. Hoping it can solve some of these problems.

I recorded a movie in SP mode to the Hard Drive. The movie is 2HR and 18 minutes long. When I try to dub to a new DVD by pushing the add/clear button I get the message 'The space of the title exceeds the remain space of DVD disk'. How can I get this movie to a DVD?

I recorded a movie in SP mode to the Hard Drive. The movie is 2HR and 18 minutes long. When I try to dub to a new DVD by pushing the add/clear button I get the message 'The space of the title exceeds the remain space of DVD disk'. How can I get this movie to a DVD?
split the title

Again, it is very unlikely that any cable co will configure their system in such a way as to force everyone to an STB. SV will probably be saved for chs that would normally require an STB anyway - premium chs.

For the most part, I agree, but it depends a lot on the cable company. For example, our cable company plans on moving a lot of their analog channels to digital (a lot of cable companies are doing that). The original plans were to move all the lower tier (which everyone gets no mater what they subscribe to) to clear QAM. They are now re-considering that and may move some of the channels to switch video. This includes a lot of channels (14) that are not widely watched (the government, school and local access channels).

If you live in an area serviced by one of the major cable cos it's a pretty safe bet that you'll have some clear QAM chs (the locals) for the lifetime of the current gen equipment (5 years).

Again, I agree. It is very likely that the locals (highly watched) will not be moved to switched video. I just wanted to bring up the subject of switched video so everyone is aware that the new tuners may not be able to record all the channels that some think that they will.

I recorded a movie in SP mode to the Hard Drive. The movie is 2HR and 18 minutes long. When I try to dub to a new DVD by pushing the add/clear button I get the message 'The space of the title exceeds the remain space of DVD disk'. How can I get this movie to a DVD?

As scott says you can split the title. You can also delete commercials. SP is 2 hours on a single layer DVD so you need to get the recording down to less than 2 hours, generally easy if there are commercials. If none, then split.

As scott says you can split the title. You can also delete commercials. SP is 2 hours on a single layer DVD so you need to get the recording down to less than 2 hours, generally easy if there are commercials. If none, then split.

I record everything in HQ. So I can fit 1hr on a single layer DVD. When I want to move it from the HDD to DVD, (Rare), I split the title, burn to individual single layer DVD's, transfer the DVD's to the laptop, rejoin the tiltles, and burn to a single DL DVD.

Labor intensive but I don't do it often. Preserves the higher quality though.

As DLSDO notes you can use your computer to burn to double layer. You can also use programs like Nero and DVDshrink to fit the 2h+ program on a DVD.

Better yet, just record at SP+ and fit a 2 1/2 hour show on the DVD. I am sure you know that the different settings on the Polaroid, or any recorder, determine just how long a program you can fit on a DVD and the quality of that recording. So HQ gives an hour on a single layer DVD at best quality, Sp 2hr at a step down in quality, SP+ 2 1/2 and so on (see page 47 of the manual).

Just found these specs on a google search for the DRA-01601A:

Polaroid DRA-01601A
Polaroid DRA-01601A DVD Player/Recorder - DVD+R/+RW, DVD-R/-RW, CD-R/RW - DVD Video, MP3, JPEG Playback - Progressive Scan - 160GB Hard Disk - 204Hour(s) Recording
Summary:
Record in different quality and length (HQ, SP, LP, EP, SLP)
........

I see there is no SP+.
I would miss that as I record many 2 1/2 hour movies.
Does anyone see any advantages to this machine other than the tuner and the bigger hard drive?

Grant

There is (HQ, SP, SP+, LP, EP, SLP). I guess I'll just re-record in SP+. Thanks guys.

4

3

2

1

Finally

For those who care..... (http://www.polaroid.com/global/detail.jsp;jsessionid=GpGXJjTy3pJ2qJ0VLXqgZfNswSym7YgB4YtLsQ fDnJr5Kc1lg8gb!-532473387?PRODUCT%3C%3Eprd_id=845524441765904&FOLDER%3C%3Efolder_id=282574488338773&bmUID=1176421980799)

For those who care..... (http://www.polaroid.com/global/detail.jsp;jsessionid=GpGXJjTy3pJ2qJ0VLXqgZfNswSym7YgB4YtLsQ fDnJr5Kc1lg8gb!-532473387?PRODUCT%3C%3Eprd_id=845524441765904&FOLDER%3C%3Efolder_id=282574488338773&bmUID=1176421980799)

Nice link, I was looking on their site for info the other day. I see no real advatages for me, the widescreen recording via component inputs was the biggest factor for me. I would like to know what kind of signal the ATSC tuner will send to TV. Looks like it has all the parts to send a true HD vid/audio stream to TV and Receiver. If so it would be a pretty good deal as ATSC STB's aren't cheap.

peace.
unloaded

It's a non starter if it doesn't do QAM -can't quite tell from the manual (although if it's based on Phillips unit it probably does have it). It has many desirable features and hope it has the ability like the current unit to have the HDD upgraded. Very unlikely it will have HD pass thru - none of the others do. I'm a bit dubious of the info in the manual - at the end of the specs page it lists the HDD as 80GB. :confused:

I just read the (on-line) PDF manual for the Polaroid DRA-01601A. It is a real mess. It looks like they took the DRM-2001G manual and just updated parts of it. The specs show a 80 GB drive (it has a 160 GB drive) and it shows only an NTSC tuner (it has both a NTSC and ATSC tuner, not sure if it has a QAM tuner).

I sure hope the manual that comes with the Polaroid DRA-01601A is better than the online manual. Hopefully someone will notice the mistakes in the online manual and update it.

It's already too late for the manual - it's printed already. I doubt it will be any different from the online one. Documentation and an easy interface are not the units strong points.

This will be a repeat of the current models - just a rebadge of the Phillips (3575) model. The only diff is that the price diff will be smaller. That bodes well for a QAM tuner but who knows.

I read through the manual for the new model. http://www.polaroid.com/global/detail.jsp?PRODUCT%3C%3Eprd_id=845524441765904&FOLDER%3C%3Efolder_id=2534374302032643&bmUID=1176495919810&bmLocale=en_US

Per the pdf manual

No "component in"
It has a USB port
It has "HDMI out"

This manual is true to form for Polaroid. It is just as bad as the last. As noted earlier it lists an 80gb HDD in the pdf manual when it really has a 160gb HDD. Therefore I will reserve my judgement until someone actually brings one home and puts it to the test.

Ok, I split a movie (The Guardian) from my HD into 2 discs. Now I would like to combine these discs into one. I have Nero and DVD Shrink, can it be done.

It's already too late for the manual - it's printed already. I doubt it will be any different from the online one.


You are likely right but it could be that the manual that goes out with the actual units may have got corrected before it was shipped.

I really wonder about companies that do stuff like that (put out very poor manuals). Doesn't anyone take pride in their work anymore? Surely there is some control in place where someone read the proposed manual and noted that it wasn't (even close to) correct.

Surely there is some control in place where someone read the proposed manual and noted that it wasn't (even close to) correct.
Yes, and that person has an elementary English education - that's about all you can expect to get in China. :eek:

Besides the obvious physical changes (HDMI, USB, ATSC, SD card, etc) after a quick read of the new manual I noticed a few changes with the new Polaroid HDD model when comparing it to the 2001G.

- It looks like copying from DVD to the HDD is an added feature.

- The new model has a "combine" option as an HDD editing feature. Not sure if this means combining titles.

- YesDVD can now be recorded to the HDD. I don't use YesDVD but with the 2001G it could only record directly to disc.

- "Change Index Picture" is now possible on the HDD.

Small things but it would be nice if they were available on the 2001G.

Lack of component inputs on the new unit makes it pretty much a deal breaker for me. But who knows. Polaroid is known for allowing some odd features to slip in. Perhaps something compelling will turn up.

Page 14 in the new manual states when setting up the DTV tuner you have two options. Antenna or cable. Based on this the DTV tuner should be ATSC/QAM.

Page 14 in the new manual states when setting up the DTV tuner you have two options. Antenna or cable. Based on this the DTV tuner should be ATSC/QAM.
But on the screen shot of that choice I didn't see a menu choice for cable. The more we see the features of this and the Phillips 3575 the more it seems they are a rebadge of each other.

But on the screen shot of that choice I didn't see a menu choice for cable. The more we see the features of this and the Phillips 3575 the more it seems they are a rebadge of each other.

Look at point #7 under DTV channel scan instructions. It mentions having to make a source choice between antenna and cable.

The term "rebadged" has been thrown around for a while when comparing the Polaroid and Philips. Both the Polaroid and the Philips cousin are produced by Sampo in China. Sampo contracts with different companies to produce electronics - with worldwide distribution.

Sampo offers a basic DVD recorder platform and different companies make decisions on what features to include or not include. Distribution, marketing, and service are handled by each respective company. Not Sampo. Thus you see brands like Polaroid, Philips, Eltax, Denver, Packard Bell, RjTech and a host of others that offer DVD recorders that appear similar. They are manufactured by Sampo but branded independently.

Depending on who actually owns the brand these companies operate independently of each other.

Well Looks like I'll be buying yet another Polaroid, or maybe the philips version soon :eek:
Wonder when they'll finally get either in stock, this last week early they didn't have either at my super Walmart, and they even tried to help me find it.
Also looked like they were trying to open up the isles and things to make the store more inviting and less like shopping at a swap meet :cool:

I looked at the specs on the new 160GB model with the ASTC tuner. One item in the specs that caught my eye was that it only supported direct recording to DVD +R, +RW.

It doesn't appear to support -R, _RW recording. I looked at the manual though, and in the YesDVD section it says to copy from HDD to DVD's insert DVD +R, +RW, -R, _RW.

That seems a little contradictory.

I think I'll wait until I find out if it supports -R, -RW.

I have two other DVD recorder now that are -RW, -R, and I'm not interested in throwing a differnt DVD format into the mix.

Hopefully when someone actually gets this unit, they'll report if it can record (or at least copy to -R, -RW DVD's.

Thanks
Rick

The 2001 also list plus only support depending on where you look on the box/manual etc but it does both fine for me. I figure this one will be the same, plus they take stuff back pretty easily if you just dont like it within a short time as long as its in good shape with all it's accessories.
I test drove the RCA 8030n for a day and brought it back without any problems, they just checked to make sure everything was still in the box.
The one thing that would stop me is if they still have mono tuners, which I doubt with digital support but who knows...

The 2001 also list plus only support depending on where you look on the box/manual etc but it does both fine for me. I figure this one will be the same, plus they take stuff back pretty easily if you just dont like it within a short time as long as its in good shape with all it's accessories.
I test drove the RCA 8030n for a day and brought it back without any problems, they just checked to make sure everything was still in the box.
The one thing that would stop me is if they still have mono tuners, which I doubt with digital support but who knows...

Agreed on the -R -RW. It should support -R media.

But maybe prepare to be disappointed with a mono NTSC tuner. I haven't looked that closely but the new Polaroid looks like it has two separate tuners. NTSC and a separate ATSC/QAM tuner. Polaroid would have to upgrade the 2001G NTSC mono version to stereo. Hopefully for those that want a stereo NTSC tuner they did.

Would you pay $440 or so for:

Full 5th gen HDTV tuner with live pass-through at 720p or 1080i
5.1 sound output live
DVD burner with some editing capability
160 GB hard drive for recording at your choice of quality levels (but not full hi-def)
Ability to record one channel in standard def while watching live in full hi-def

OK, think a minute . . .

If so, then the best announced entry for you so far is the:

PolaroidDRA-01601A+Samsung260

(DVD recorder + set-top box)

But seriously folks, that's looking more realistic than the one-box solution we thought would come with the ATSC DVD recorders.

I too look forward to seeing this Polaroid model on a nearby store shelf.

The new Polaroid looks nothing like the new Philips HDD model. At least not based on this product info for the Philips:

http://www.brightandsleek.com/pdf/PHILIPS-DVDR3575H.pdf

They look like very different machines in both physical layout and even features. I wonder if the new Philips is manufactured by Sampo? Perhaps not. The Polaroid is.

Is there a manual floating around for the Philips? I ask because I have not been paying much attention to the ATSC tuner releases.

Also it looks like the new Polaroid has two tuners. One NTSC and one ATSC/QAM. There is an RF coax input/output for the NTSC tuner and a separate RF coax input for the ATSC/QAM tuner (and of course HDMI output). Numbers 12 and 13 on page 5 of the manual show both the analog and digital RF coax inputs. Is this typical for the other brands that have been released in 2007?

I went to my local Walmart today and saw a 2001G still on the shelf, I thought it was the new one that was coming out :(

Also it looks like the new Polaroid has two tuners. One NTSC and one ATSC/QAM. There is an RF coax input/output for the NTSC tuner and a separate RF coax input for the ATSC/QAM tuner (and of course HDMI output). Numbers 12 and 13 on page 5 of the manual show both the analog and digital RF coax inputs. Is this typical for the other brands that have been released in 2007?

It might be correct or it could be just another mistake in the manual. A "typical" design would be a RF input for ATSC/NTSC OTA connection and a RF input for a cable QAM/NTSC connection. That is how a lot of TVs are but I have seen some (and external STBs too) that support NTSC/ATSC/QAM that have only one input. If you want to use both OTA and cable you have to use an exernal A/B switch and go into a menu when you switch to choose between cable and OTA. I guess the designer figures that you will use one of the other but some of us use both (and satellite too).

Is there a way you can copy pictures from computer to HDD? If so where can I purchase a cable that would let me do this. I need USB on one end and what on the other end? the tiny plug or the red, yellow and white plug?

Thanks guys

The 2001 also list plus only support depending on where you look on the box/manual etc but it does both fine for me. I figure this one will be the same, plus they take stuff back pretty easily if you just dont like it within a short time as long as its in good shape with all it's accessories.
I test drove the RCA 8030n for a day and brought it back without any problems, they just checked to make sure everything was still in the box.
The one thing that would stop me is if they still have mono tuners, which I doubt with digital support but who knows...


Yes, I've been happy with their return policy ata Walmasrt. The first DVD recorder I bought online from Walmart.com. Had some problems with it, and was able to return to the local store, with no problem. I've since bought two more (and kept both) from them.

But, looks like I might give the Poloroid a try, I've decided a HDD is a must for me now. I record a fair bit from OTA, then move them off to -RW DVD, play them back on an OPPO DVD plaer and am pretty happy with the result.

Thanks
Rick

Is there a way you can copy pictures from computer to HDD? If so where can I purchase a cable that would let me do this. I need USB on one end and what on the other end? the tiny plug or the red, yellow and white plug?

Thanks guys


(From the new Polaroid manual) Copy your pics to a USB drive-- Plug USB drive into port on the Polaroid-- Push FILE button. Select pics to copy to HDD. Right arrow-copy-enter- etc...... Doubt you can plug in directly from a PC, but would like to try it. Or maybe power a HDD and use an IDE to USB adapter and see what happens.

If you want to do it on the old Polaroid you will need to either display your pics through a video output on your video card (or use a VGA to NTSC converter... (quality will suffer)) or copy your pics to a CD in a format that will play on another DVD player and play that into your recorder.

Why would you want pictures on your HDD anyway?

I just got the B unit from WalMart. It was the display model. Could someone please give me the pros and cons to this unit?
I already know it's got the noisy and loud fan.
I've read through alot of the forum. Will it be worth keeping or should I take it back to the store? I had the H unit and it wouldn't burn any disc. So I took it back.
How long does these units last?
Please any help would be much appreciated. Thanks so much.

If you need component inputs it's one of the only game in town types. it records video very clean, the mono tuner sucks and so does the title naming system. It can take a bigger drive, and many other burners can work too.
The one you have probably also has the lousy remote with limited range and very directional. You can get a new Infra red LED for it at Radio Shack for 2 bucks if you can solder and that fixes it or get a universal remote and program it.
I would have taken mine back if I had realized about the mono tuner right away.
So it depends on what you need, I'd maybe hang onto it till the newer unit with the digital tuner shows up and see which one you feel works better for you. Walmart gives you 90 days to play.

I just got the B unit from WalMart. It was the display model. Could someone please give me the pros and cons to this unit?
I already know it's got the noisy and loud fan.
I've read through alot of the forum. Will it be worth keeping or should I take it back to the store? I had the H unit and it wouldn't burn any disc. So I took it back.
How long does these units last?
Please any help would be much appreciated. Thanks so much.

I've had a "B" unit since August. Very happy with it. I did get a Sony VL-600 universal remote though, it makes it much easier to operate.

I bought a "K" for my second one in February. It seems to go into slow down mode more often than the "B". When it does I just shut it off and start up again. Ran into the failing fan on start up within a few weeks. I was just going to replace the fan, but if the new Polaroid is on the shelf before the 90 days is up I will return and exchange.

The "B" unit has given me no trouble.

Besides the obvious physical changes (HDMI, USB, ATSC, SD card, etc) after a quick read of the new manual I noticed a few changes with the new Polaroid HDD model when comparing it to the 2001G.

- It looks like copying from DVD to the HDD is an added feature.

- The new model has a "combine" option as an HDD editing feature. Not sure if this means combining titles.

- YesDVD can now be recorded to the HDD. I don't use YesDVD but with the 2001G it could only record directly to disc.

- "Change Index Picture" is now possible on the HDD.

Small things but it would be nice if they were available on the 2001G.

Lack of component inputs on the new unit makes it pretty much a deal breaker for me. But who knows. Polaroid is known for allowing some odd features to slip in. Perhaps something compelling will turn up.

The specs I saw online for the new Polaroid say:
Features:
Media Support: DVD+R/+RW - Play/Record
Media Support: DVD-R/-RW - Play
Media Support: CD-R/RW - Play

This seems to imply that it will play anything, but only record on +R media. My experience with the 2001G is that it did fine with +R media, but when I tried recording onto -R, it did OK with a couple of discs (although the YesDVD feature did not work with -R), and then began acting REALLY badly. I suspect that the optical drive was somehow damaged by forcing it record onto -R disks. I know that sounds illogical ... but others have reported similar stories. After exchanging mine for a new 2001G I decided to stick with +R media for everything. The bottom line is that the Polaroids really don't like -R discs.

The specs I saw online for the new Polaroid say:
Features:
Media Support: DVD+R/+RW - Play/Record
Media Support: DVD-R/-RW - Play
Media Support: CD-R/RW - Play

This seems to imply that it will play anything, but only record on +R media. My experience with the 2001G is that it did fine with +R media, but when I tried recording onto -R, it did OK with a couple of discs (although the YesDVD feature did not work with -R), and then began acting REALLY badly. I suspect that the optical drive was somehow damaged by forcing it record onto -R disks. I know that sounds illogical ... but others have reported similar stories. After exchanging mine for a new 2001G I decided to stick with +R media for everything. The bottom line is that the Polaroids really don't like -R discs.

Look at page 34 of the manual which is posted here:

http://www.polaroid.com/service/userguides/ce/dvd_players/dra1601a_ug_en.pdf

I have only used -R media with the 2001G and have never had a problem. I remember reading your posts concerning this last year. I don't think it was -R media that damaged your drive. I suspect it was a bad drive to begin with or your drive didn't like the -R media you were using. I've never heard of a disc media format killing a drive. If it was possible I think there would be "warning Will Robinson" stickers all over the drive stating to only use the correct media or damage would result - never have seen that. Typically if a format is not compatable with a drive it will not be able to read it.

As far as the new Polaroid. Check out the manual. There is some ambiguity but as bad as it is written it is actually better than the 2001G's.

I just got the B unit from WalMart. It was the display model. Could someone please give me the pros and cons to this unit?
I already know it's got the noisy and loud fan.
I've read through alot of the forum. Will it be worth keeping or should I take it back to the store? I had the H unit and it wouldn't burn any disc. So I took it back.
How long does these units last?
Please any help would be much appreciated. Thanks so much.

remember that the B units do not passthrough the signal when the polaroid is powered off

Found Polaroid DRA-01601A label at local Wally World.
Specs - 200 GB, USB, Digital Tuner, etc. Listed at $258.
Sales person had no idea when they are coming in, i wonder why ask the question...
knowing the reply beforehand. :rolleyes:

Found Polaroid DRA-01601A label at local Wally World.
Specs - 200 GB, USB, Digital Tuner, etc. Listed at $258.
Sales person had no idea when they are coming in, i wonder why ask the question...
knowing the reply beforehand. :rolleyes:

I saw the label yesterday with 160GB and listed at $298 at mine.
edit: scratch that; I just remembered it was only the philips model I saw :o

Here is the link for the download to the PDF File for the Owners Manual:

http://www.polaroid.com/service/userguides/ce/dvd_players/dra1601a_ug_en.pdf

And here is the link to the web site page for the DRA-01601A

http://www.polaroid.com/global/detail.jsp?PRODUCT%3C%3Eprd_id=845524441765904&FOLDER%3C%3Efolder_id=2534374302032643&bmUID=1176850206725&bmLocale=en_US

Here is the link for the download to the PDF File for the Owners Manual:

http://www.polaroid.com/service/userguides/ce/dvd_players/dra1601a_ug_en.pdf

And here is the link to the web site page for the DRA-01601A

http://www.polaroid.com/global/detail.jsp?PRODUCT%3C%3Eprd_id=845524441765904&FOLDER%3C%3Efolder_id=2534374302032643&bmUID=1176850206725&bmLocale=en_US

Thanks! But look up 5 posts. :)

suplex - what do you think of the fact that it has two tuners? One for analog the other for digital. Anything significant? A hope for pass through perhaps?

Thanks! But look up 5 posts. :)

suplex - what do you think of the fact that it has two tuners? One for analog the other for digital. Anything significant? A hope for pass through perhaps?

You're right about me posting information that has already been posted (should have looked before I posted...sorry about that).

As for the two tuners is concerned, I am under the impression that you would be able to use it with either cable connection. For example, I used to have Cablevision (cable TV by the same people who brought us Optimum Online for Internet) and I did not have iO Digital Cable, just the regular Analog one.

I recently switched to Verizon Fios which is digital and now my Pioneer 640 can not receive channels using it's own tuner, where it could with Cablevision. So the impression that I am under is that if I had the Polaroid DRA-01601A it would tune in channels with either cable company. Now seeing as how everything will be Digital soon, I guess including an NTSC tuner won't be necessary in the future, but maybe it's like when DVD Players came out and they could still play CD's (backwards compatible).

So now as the first generation of Digital Tuners become available, they will also include Analog Tuners in them as well.

The thing that would be fantastic is if being that there are two tuners you could record two different shows, on different channels, at the same time. But I suppose with the two tuners being one Digital and one Analog, you would have to subscribe to two different cable companies (one that is Digital and one Analog) to make that happen, and I am sure that isn't the intention of the two tuners in this case.

I think that there may be some misunderstanding on the tuners in some new recorders. While its true that a lot of them can receive both NTSC and ATSC (and some QAM) signals the newest designs do it with one tuner chip set that can receive and decode all the signals. If it is an older design it very well could have two distinct tuners.

I seriously doubt that we will see any that will record two programs at the same time (at least not in the price range that we are currently seeing for the new models). We just will have to wait and see.

I think that there may be some misunderstanding on the tuners in some new recorders. While its true that a lot of them can receive both NTSC and ATSC (and some QAM) signals the newest designs do it with one tuner chip set that can receive and decode all the signals. If it is an older design it very well could have two distinct tuners.

I seriously doubt that we will see any that will record two programs at the same time (at least not in the price range that we are currently seeing for the new models). We just will have to wait and see.

I agree. When I looked at the manual you still have only one source option at a time. Just like the 2001G. But the component input source has been replaced with the digital tuner as a source.

I see that the new 160 gig polaroid has the option to set how long you want the time shift buffer so hopefully you can do longer than 1 hr.

Are we still going to use this thread for the new 160g model, or is someone going to start a new one ? Maybe the owner of this thread can rename it to the Polaroid 201g thread

My "K" version is as follows:

Firmware Information
Mpeg F/W: Build0050.19
Loader F/W: V6VJun28
FrontPanel Ver: f015
Macrovision: On
Current Region Code: 0
Default Password: 3308
Date: Jun 2 2006
YesDVD Version: YR.5.1.2.11106

Soooo, the only thing different software /firmware wise is the loader software. I changed the region code to 0 myself.



So does changing the Region code change anything else. So if I change the region code to 0, I assume that I can now order DVDs from the UK change to PAL
and they will play on the Polariod DRM-2001G. I have the K version.

Thank you

So does changing the Region code change anything else. So if I change the region code to 0, I assume that I can now order DVDs from the UK change to PAL
and they will play on the Polariod DRM-2001G. I have the K version.

Thank you


Won't change anything else. Change the code and pop in a region 2 PAL DVD and it'll play like any other.

Won't change anything else. Change the code and pop in a region 2 PAL DVD and it'll play like any other.

Does the DVD have to say it is a PAL? I know they will say what Region they are from, but does it also say PAL. Or do I just set my DVD player to PAL setting?

Thanks again

Does the DVD have to say it is a PAL? I know they will say what Region they are from, but does it also say PAL. Or do I just set my DVD player to PAL setting?

Thanks again

Do not change the TV type in the setup menu to PAL. Your TV is still NTSC. If you change that setting to PAL your picture will scramble and to set it back to NTSC you'll have to do it from memory or use the Polaroid manual for menu navigation back to the setting.

Like was posted. All you need to do is change the region code to 0. The Polaroid will convert your PAL disc to NTSC output when playing back.

Do not change the TV type in the setup menu to PAL. Your TV is still NTSC. If you change that setting to PAL your picture will scramble and to set it back to NTSC you'll have to do it from memory or use the Polaroid manual for menu navigation back to the setting.

Like was posted. All you need to do is change the region code to 0. The Polaroid will convert your PAL disc to NTSC output when playing back.


OK just want to be sure before I spend the money for the DVDs. The DVD product detail says:

Region: Region 2
Format: PAL

I have changed my DVD player to 0 Region Code. So that is all I need to do in order to watch this DVD.

Sorry to be a pain, just want to be sure.

Thanks

OK just want to be sure before I spend the money for the DVDs. The DVD product detail says:

Region: Region 2
Format: PAL

I have changed my DVD player to 0 Region Code. So that is all I need to do in order to watch this DVD.

Sorry to be a pain, just want to be sure.

Thanks

That is all you need to do. That is one great hidden feature about the 2001G, It is region-free AND converts PAL to NTSC. Not many recorders do this and they don't sell that cheaply. I researched a bunch of recorders for ones that could do this and then I stumbled on this thread and this unit that sells at my local Wal-mart. What a find! It plays my wife's Austrailian and British DVDs just fine. ;)

That is all you need to do. That is one great hidden feature about the 2001G, It is region-free AND converts PAL to NTSC. Not many recorders do this and they don't sell that cheaply. I researched a bunch of recorders for ones that could do this and then I stumbled on this thread and this unit that sells at my local Wal-mart. What a find! It plays my wife's Austrailian and British DVDs just fine. ;)

Thanks to all of you for your info. So glad I found this forum and this great group of people. You guys always take time to explain in a way this old dog can understand. ;)

I guess I will order my DVDs now. :)

Thanks again.

I see that the new 160 gig polaroid has the option to set how long you want the time shift buffer so hopefully you can do longer than 1 hr.
With the 2001G, don't you press record with the timeshift on the screen and you can get +30 up to +150 more minuted?

remember that the B units do not passthrough the signal when the polaroid is powered off


hello, where is the letter 'B' located at? I have one and I think it is a B model but not sure. I only had it a few days and already unsatisfied with the unit and trying to decide what to do.

Thanks.

With the 2001G, don't you press record with the timeshift on the screen and you can get +30 up to +150 more minuted?

You can do it that way or just press record and it will record three hour increments forever if your HD is big enough. During the three hour period you can time shift to your hearts content.

Plus, you can change the channel, say at the start of the next program you want to watch, while you are still time shifting and you can continue to watch the first program. Then seamlessly shift to the new recorded channel when you get to it. Nice feature.

hello, where is the letter 'B' located at? I have one and I think it is a B model but not sure. I only had it a few days and already unsatisfied with the unit and trying to decide what to do.

Thanks.

It can be found on the back of the unit. It is the letter designation that precedes the serial number.

It can be found on the back of the unit. It is the letter designation that precedes the serial number.

Mine has a B before the serial number. Is this the model that cannot pass-through the video signal when powered off?

Mine has a B before the serial number. Is this the model that cannot pass-through the video signal when powered off?

Yes.

I was in my Wally-World today and saw that they had marked down the 2001g to 188.00.

Must be getting ready for the new one.

I was in my Wally-World today and saw that they had marked down the 2001g to 188.00.

Must be getting ready for the new one.

The new one (DRA-01601, $258) has had a reserved space at my local Wal*Mart for over a month now. A few weeks ago it even had a tag on the shelf that said "expected date: 4/18". Clearly, they missed that date and none of the associates know exactly when they will be available but you do get a lot of "any day now" when you ask.

The new one (DRA-01601, $258) has had a reserved space at my local Wal*Mart for over a month now. A few weeks ago it even had a tag on the shelf that said "expected date: 4/18". Clearly, they missed that date and none of the associates know exactly when they will be available but you do get a lot of "any day now" when you ask.


Well if you really want one I have one here I'b be willing to sell. It is new, never been used yet. Just ordered it last week. Asking $175 shipped.

Are we still going to use this thread for the new 160g model, or is someone going to start a new one ? Maybe the owner of this thread can rename it to the Polaroid 201g thread

Just discovered this new thread on the Polaroid DRA-1601A.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=839036

Well after a nice 6 weeks of use my unit came on last night and I though a cat got in the hearter blower motor LOL

At first I was thinking heating unit or maybe the tv was going to blow up then I realized what it was...THE FAN

I took the unit apart and yep stopped the fan and all was quiet. Is this a 40 or 50 mm fan?

I found one this size in a box of old computer parts 12v and it would not work in the unit...is this a 12V fan?

Then to my surprise I put the fan back in thinking I would have to use it until I got a replacement and the fan was quiet as a mouse...w t heck is that?


well I need to get a replacement anyway I don't trust it :)

The new one (DRA-01601, $258) has had a reserved space at my local Wal*Mart for over a month now. A few weeks ago it even had a tag on the shelf that said "expected date: 4/18". Clearly, they missed that date and none of the associates know exactly when they will be available but you do get a lot of "any day now" when you ask.
Due May 16 at my Wal-Mart in Alabama.

Well after a nice 6 weeks of use my unit came on last night and I though a cat got in the hearter blower motor LOL

At first I was thinking heating unit or maybe the tv was going to blow up then I realized what it was...THE FAN

I took the unit apart and yep stopped the fan and all was quiet. Is this a 40 or 50 mm fan?

I found one this size in a box of old computer parts 12v and it would not work in the unit...is this a 12V fan?

Then to my surprise I put the fan back in thinking I would have to use it until I got a replacement and the fan was quiet as a mouse...w t heck is that?


well I need to get a replacement anyway I don't trust it :)

Most of the posts early in this thread are about the fan. Replacement is the best solution but mounting it on some sort of dampening material quiets it down. Mine has been fine ever since I uses a piece from an old inner tube.

Hey, I can get a DRM-2001G for $60 bucks. Good deal???

Hey, I can get a DRM-2001G for $60 bucks. Good deal???
I'd go for it. The only common issues I've seen so far is general fan noise (fan can be replaced) and extreme fan noise on startup which goes away after a minute or so on some K units (fan can be replaced).
I have 2. For $60 bucks I'd probably buy another.

Grant

I'd go for it. The only common issues I've seen so far is general fan noise (fan can be replaced) and extreme fan noise on startup which goes away after a minute or so on some K units (fan can be replaced).
I have 2. For $60 bucks I'd probably buy another.

Grant

Cool. Now, I've read all the posts here within this thread, but what is your impression of the unit?

Cool. Now, I've read all the posts here within this thread, but what is your impression of the unit?
This is the only DVD recorder I have tried so I have nothing else to compare it to. I bought it based on this thread.
Bottom line, I'm happy with it, recognizing:
- the manual is terrible, you have to figure out many things for yourself or with the great help of this thread
- the remote is terrible, you have to modify it or buy a universal learning remote or just aim carefully
- the clock drift is annoying, you have to set it every week or so for timed recordings
Once I got used to the above and compared prices for units with hard drives I felt, and still do, that it is a great buy for the money. $220.00 - $60.00 - wow.
Grant

I found one this size in a box of old computer parts 12v and it would not work in the unit...is this a 12V fan? :)

I have discovered the following different fans in B, F, and K models:

* T&T 4010M12S ND6 ID: 6117

* ZP XINRUILIAN Brushless DC fan, model: RDL 4010S, DC12V, 0.06A ID# 8921HY

I'm not an engineer so can't help on what to use as a substitute. This issue has been discussed throughout this thread with many "experts" advising what to do.

I currently use an F-series unit I've had a month. The excessive fan noise developed after a couple weeks of use. I notice it when first turned on but within about a minute it beomes less noticeable. I'm looking for a fan replacement myself but in the meantime, I'm waiting to see if the fan noise gets worse.

Of course, I'm looking to try the DRA-1601a as soon as it is available.

Good luck with your plan to replace the noisy fan.

I have discovered the following different fans in B, F, and K models:

* T&T 4010M12S ND6 ID: 6117

* ZP XINRUILIAN Brushless DC fan, model: RDL 4010S, DC12V, 0.06A ID# 8921HY

I'm not an engineer so can't help on what to use as a substitute. This issue has been discussed throughout this thread with many "experts" advising what to do.

I currently use an F-series unit I've had a month. The excessive fan noise developed after a couple weeks of use. I notice it when first turned on but within about a minute it beomes less noticeable. I'm looking for a fan replacement myself but in the meantime, I'm waiting to see if the fan noise gets worse.

Of course, I'm looking to try the DRA-1601a as soon as it is available.

Good luck with your plan to replace the noisy fan.

Hi, I picked one of these up this winter. I had a hard time finding one and when I did the fan got noisey very quickly. I didn't want to return it and they didn't have one to give me in exhcange so I did some research and found a very quiet SilenX fan to install (see an earlier post of mine detailing the fan and install). It's worked great till the last week and now it's howling like a banshee when it starts up and then quieting down after a minute or two! Do all 40mm fans suck or what???

I'm going to tear into mine again shortly - I need to measure how much room there is available - I'm wondering if a slower rpm, larger fan could be made to work?

sir_65. Welcome back! Yes the fan continues to be a problem. Amazing how a $5 part can make it sound like it is going nuclear. Mine too occasionally will give the cat getting run through the fan belts scream on start up. I know I'm going to have to swap it out soon. The good news is that to many it sounds like the recorder is ready to explode but it really is pretty minor. But a real hassle to have to take the time to fix it.

If the fans is doing that then the bearings are going out. I have a little external box that does that too when first started. Get one with good ball bearings in it and hopefully it wont do that till the unit dies. My early unit sounds like a hoover when running mainly because of the motor noise and wind noise it has. I put some home made rubber grommets on mine and the noise dropped about 50 percent but still loud.
All I know is when Walmart here gets the new digital one with a 160 gig in it I'm taking one more chance on one. I still have one high output Radio Shack led for the remote if needed.

sir_65. Welcome back! Yes the fan continues to be a problem. Amazing how a $5 part can make it sound like it is going nuclear. Mine too occasionally will give the cat getting run through the fan belts scream on start up. I know I'm going to have to swap it out soon. The good news is that to many it sounds like the recorder is ready to explode but it really is pretty minor. But a real hassle to have to take the time to fix it.

Thanks nextoo, but I never really went anywhere -> I've been popping in occasionally to check what's new, I just haven't been posting much.

Yeah, I'm getting a little annoyed -> I was aware the original fan would probably need replacing (and wasn't disappointed!), but I took the time to research a replacement fan and the SilenX looked like a good candidate . . . and it cost me $20 with shipping! It worked very well though -> it was near silent! Now that it's acting up though I'm pretty perturbed with it!

Again, do all 40mm fans suck, or what?!

I still haven't upgraded the hd in the unit, just haven't taken the time so I've put off fixing the fan too. I'd like to do some measuring and see if I couldn't use a bigger fan or perhaps use two fans and run them at half power or something to get the noise down as much as possible, keep the air flow rate adequate, and the fan reliability up as high as possible.

I'm kinda holding off though -> I think I'll pick up one of the new 160gb units when they come out and then move the current unit downstairs to the family room . . . that way I don't have to wrestle it into and out of that big, heavy, hard to move entertainment center in the living room! It's just making noise on start up and then quieting down (and it's still running! I can feel air coming out of the case) so I think it'll make it to mid-May.

I'm disappointed no one has figured a way to fix the FF bug yet. I hardly make any DVDs on the machine simply because the FF bug annoys me!

I was hoping a tool like FixVTS or something would eventually figure it out and be able to repair the problem, but I just read where the authors of Menu Shrink, FixVTS, and Ripit4me have stopped development of their programs in response to threats from the movie studios. 8-< (I can maybe understand ripit4me being questionable under the DMCA, but the other two appear to be completely in compliance with the DMCA to me as they don't circumvent anything, so I dunno what the issues are?)

Talk to you later, take care

If the fans is doing that then the bearings are going out. I have a little external box that does that too when first started. Get one with good ball bearings in it and hopefully it wont do that till the unit dies.

Yeah, and that's what annoys me! The SilenX fan was supposed to have some super-duper bearing type in it with a much higher MTBF than the stock fan!

Again, do all 40mm fans suck or what?! :mad:

That fan MIGHT have a good warranty if it's supposed to be that great, maybe if you contact them they will send you another one under it. Might just be a fluke with that fan too. If you don't want to hassle with it you might try a lube of some sort shot into the bearing hub, might work for a while. Mines never buzzed or anything, just loud. A friend sent me a few really heavy duty ones to try but they'll need to be slowed down or they will be just as loud and probably suck the case in while they're at it :rolleyes:
I think the tiny guys just spin too fast so they have problems or get full of dirt quick.

That fan MIGHT have a good warranty if it's supposed to be that great, maybe if you contact them they will send you another one under it. Might just be a fluke with that fan too. If you don't want to hassle with it you might try a lube of some sort shot into the bearing hub, might work for a while. Mines never buzzed or anything, just loud. A friend sent me a few really heavy duty ones to try but they'll need to be slowed down or they will be just as loud and probably suck the case in while they're at it :rolleyes:
I think the tiny guys just spin too fast so they have problems or get full of dirt quick.

Hi Dartman,

I didn't bother to keep the package, receipt, or anything so it's probably a lost cause looking for warranty . . . guess that'll teach me!

I'm kinda wondering if we couldn't use a bigger, slower turning fan or maybe two of the 40mm fans but drop their voltage back? (seems to me that I read somewhere that you could hook the positive lead to a +12v point and the negative lead to a +5v point on the board and end up with 7v?) Running them slower would of course drop their cfm down, but it should also drop their noise down too. By having two run the cfms should be back up to around the same as one running fast and instead of having one column of air you'd have two so though the amount of cfm would be the same that amount would be spread over a larger area (which mary or may not be bad?)?

I dunno, I really don't want to take the thing apart right now - it's just in a hard spot to get in and out of and I'm depending on it to record things most nights so I don't want it out of commission too long. I think I'll pick one of the new 160gig ones up when they come out and then I can have some play time with this one and maybe get this pain in the butt fan thing figured out once and for all!

I'm sure I can find a solution to the fan problem since it's more of a mechanical issue and my skills lean more that way, but I'd really like to get the FF issue figured out, unfortunately software isn't my strong point these days . . .

Also, I posted some research and links I did a while back on these units and their cousins and it seems there are some firmware updates available for the cousins that do some nice things like remove that little icon when you have a record timer set . . . I'm surprised no one has experimented with those firmwares on our units . . . I would've but my Wally World only ever got a couple of these in and haven't had any for months so I really didn't want to dork the only one I could get a hold of!

Gimme a link, I've broken stuff before and I'm sure I can again :) I tried the philips version a while back but of course no go, probably have to rename it and maybe hack the drive ID in the FW which I wasn't going to try. I have one 40mm fan he sent me that must be 3 inch thick and looks more like a boat impeller turbine or something on the blades. If you Ohms law it out you can figure how big of a resister and wattage you need to half the voltage.
Back in the old tube radio days they used to do that a lot to make the 6 volt radios work once a car was converted over to a 12 volt generator.

Gimme a link, I've broken stuff before and I'm sure I can again :) I tried the philips version a while back but of course no go, probably have to rename it and maybe hack the drive ID in the FW which I wasn't going to try. I have one 40mm fan he sent me that must be 3 inch thick and looks more like a boat impeller turbine or something on the blades. If you Ohms law it out you can figure how big of a resister and wattage you need to half the voltage.
Back in the old tube radio days they used to do that a lot to make the 6 volt radios work once a car was converted over to a 12 volt generator.

http://support.packardbell.com/uk/item/index.php?i=platform_ehr2080&g=2000&dhepn=C041920001

would get you the UK version firmwares.

Please refer to my earlier posts about this . . . look at posts 1044 through 1047.

You're a braver man than I! (or one that can still get a new one if he dorks the current one! :D )

I saw a server fan on eBay that's a 40mm and it's something like 50+mm thick! It drew a lot of current though and listed no noise specs . . .

I would think a good old potentiometer would work to get the voltage where you want it. If you're scared of dorking the power supply then maybe just run a wall wart into the unit to supply the fans?

I wish that new model would come out so I could play with my current one!!!!!

The more I think about it, the more I'll bet the UK firmware WOULD work. I was originally concerned with the differences between the tuners but I'll bet the tuners are their own little units and just controlled through a data interface - i.e. the unit tells the tuner to change channels by just sending it data so the tuners are different, but the interface to those tuners probably isn't.

I'll bet the only thing it does is set the DVD region to region 2 and we've found a hack to change the region codes!

Tried it, renamed the ISO to POLAROID-etc and when I put it in the machine it said upgrade disk detected OK to continue then said error system can't be restarted but the machine seems to work once I powered down and ejected it. Now to play some more with the philips version I have.

For you guys that have upgraded to a larger HD... what kind of drive did you use? What's the difference between a SATA vs. PATA drive. Which does the Polaroid use? TIA.

PATA is just plain old IDE just like your used to, SATA is the newer standard with smaller cable and less system overhead, plus supposedly faster throughput. The 2001 uses IDE and I used a Western Digital 2 meg cache 250 gig that just happened to be the same model as the original, just bigger version. Woot.com used to blow them out regularly for around 50 shipped. Some of the other rebadgers recommend WD drives I think because of power draw and the small Power supply in these things.
My drive has worked perfectly since installed in place of the 80 gig almost a year or so ago. We are all betting the newer digital tuner one with a 160 should be able to do the same as before, just plug in a bigger drive and it goes.

Tried it, renamed the ISO to POLAROID-etc and when I put it in the machine it said upgrade disk detected OK to continue then said error system can't be restarted but the machine seems to work once I powered down and ejected it. Now to play some more with the philips version I have.

Hi Dartman,

Drat!

As per my earlier posts on this subject:
It appears to me that the way the unit knows it's an update disc inserted is by the label of the disc - EHR2080UK is the label of the update disc for a UK model no matter what version the update is. ERH2080FR is the label for the update disc for a French model no matter what the version of the update is, so I think the label just needs to match the model of the player it's inserted in. The "DMN8600.CUB" file is the actual update file and it's name also stays the same no matter what version the update is.

This is how the firmware discs for the European models look:

United Kingdom version:
Firmware file used to create update disc: ehr2080_fw5019uk1.iso
CD Label: EHR2080UK
Files on CD: DMN8600.CUB

French version:
Firmware file used to create update disc: ehr2080_fw5019fr1.iso
CD Label: EHR2080FR
Files on CD: DMN8600.CUB

Sooooooo . . .

Are you sure you did it correctly? The name of the ISO makes no difference, it's the name that's used as the volume label of the CD that I'm sure makes the difference. I wonder if it saw the DMN8600.CUB file on the disc so it knew it was a firmware upgrade disc, but then I wonder if it didn't check the disc label to see if it were indeed for that particular model. If you just changed the ISO name then the disc label was left as EHR2080UK -> and a EHR2080UK isn't a DRM2001G so it knew there was an error and didn't run?

The way to do it would be to burn the ISO to a disc, then pull the DMN8600.CUB file off of that disc to your hard drive. Then make a new CD - place the DMN8600.CUB file on the disc as a file and then put the correct model number in as the disc label, then burn the disc (remember to finalize it). What the correct disc label is is something we would have to guess at since we don't have a previous firmware upgrade for our exact unit to look at, but I would imagine that they would follow the same labeling convention they used on the European units, soooo I would guess DRM2001G or DRM2001GUS.

I could make the discs and make ISOs out of them for you to try to make things easier for ya if you can pm me an email address to send them to.

Thanks for having the BALLS to play around with this!!! :cool:

TTYL,

Steve

Could you point out a source... maybe a direct link for direct replacement unit? Thanks.

Could you point out a source... maybe a direct link for direct replacement unit? Thanks.

I've always had good luck with both NewEgg and Western Digital, and WD is what the original drive is.

Here's a WD 250gig that should work fine:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16822144309

I've always had good luck with both NewEgg and Western Digital, and WD is what the original drive is.

Here's a WD 250gig that should work fine:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16822144309


Nice!!! Thanks.

Hi Dartman,


I could make the discs and make ISOs out of them for you to try to make things easier for ya if you can pm me an email address to send them to.

Thanks for having the BALLS to play around with this!!! :cool:

TTYL,

Steve

Yeah I think I did, I just renamed the update title to polaroid and left the rest alone and it looked at it and failed. At least it didn't kill it so it is smart enough to know the hardware is different I guess.
The philips upgrade has like 4 files in it, two bin files and 2 cub files so it's quite a bit different. I tried renaming everything in it to Polaroid but it wouldn't even recognize it as a upgrade disk at all.
The other at least knew it was a upgrade, but wouldn't run on this hardware. With dvd burners most of them have ID strings and checks built in to make sure you don't flash a wrong drive, or hack one to do more then you paid for :cool:
So that might also be what is happening here. You'd have to put both firmwares through a HEX editor and see if there's anything else stopping it from working and it may be hard to do without a original to do a compare with. It depends on how cryptic they get with the language inside and if it's also encrypted to stop any mods...

Yeah I think I did, I just renamed the update title to polaroid and left the rest alone and it looked at it and failed. At least it didn't kill it so it is smart enough to know the hardware is different I guess.
The philips upgrade has like 4 files in it, two bin files and 2 cub files so it's quite a bit different. I tried renaming everything in it to Polaroid but it wouldn't even recognize it as a upgrade disk at all.
The other at least knew it was a upgrade, but wouldn't run on this hardware. With dvd burners most of them have ID strings and checks built in to make sure you don't flash a wrong drive, or hack one to do more then you paid for :cool:
So that might also be what is happening here. You'd have to put both firmwares through a HEX editor and see if there's anything else stopping it from working and it may be hard to do without a original to do a compare with. It depends on how cryptic they get with the language inside and if it's also encrypted to stop any mods...

Yeah, I know . . . I've done a bit of this in the past, just not recently. I don't think it's all that complicated, the Chinese just aren't into that kinda thing. I imagine it follows the same upgrade path as the old Shinco DVD players and there it was just the name of the upgrade file if I recall correctly. Most drives are the same way too - the string they are looking for is just a model number. It is normally in plain ascii, so I may have to look at it a bit later.

Did you relabel it to "POLAROID" or did you use "DRM2001G"???

I used Polaroid then the rest of the string I left as it was for the uk upgrade version, for the othere I used Polaroid and 2001g trying to name like the files were before. I spose I could try 2001g and see what happens on the UK version just in case.

I used Polaroid then the rest of the string I left as it was for the uk upgrade version, for the othere I used Polaroid and 2001g trying to name like the files were before. I spose I could try 2001g and see what happens on the UK version just in case.

Interestingly enough the disc labels change with different versions . . .

UK1 EHR2080UK
UK3 6982080200

FR1 EHR2080FR
FR3 6982050200

Strange, oh well . . . the disc labels may not have anything to do with it, the program contained in the CUB file just may start to be executed and do some checking on it's own, who knows?

I used to enjoy such challenges but I'm pretty rusty on things software these days and my time is limited so I guess it'll remain a challenge for others.

It is pretty annoying that there are updates though and Polaroid has just chosen not to offer them to us, isn't it?

Yes it is. Pioneer pulled the same crap with the 563a multi format high res audio dvd player I bought. they had quite a few updates on disk that they refused to make available and tried to force people to bring or ship them to a service center for a simple cd based firmware upgrade. I finally found a leaked copy on a quad audio forum where many of the members had bought Pioneers, only took 2 years to get it.
I guess they are afraid users will waste machines trying to upgrade or they just want to force you to take it in and possibly pay a tech to do it. The Polaroid is kinda throw away I think so they could care less about updates after it's in a customers hands.

I got the polaroid to take any of the Firmware upgrades from packard bell, so far It totally borks the tuner. It has all kinds of PAL/SECAM options but no NTSC so it will go past but not properly tune any Cable channels unless I get lucky on a manual tune, which happened just once. The other big thing is so far it wont accept the add clear button to allow me to dub from the hard drive even though I checked and the dvd burner still works. I can get a signal from my hdtuner into it just fine and it still records to the hd, just doesn't seem to want to dub to optical drive from it now.
I'll try a few other things, like the french version, but looks like wally world will be selling me the new digital one for sure now. Well it's been a fun ride so far anyways...

I got the polaroid to take any of the Firmware upgrades from packard bell,
Cool! How'd you do that?

so far It totally borks the tuner. It has all kinds of PAL/SECAM options but no NTSC so it will go past but not properly tune any Cable channels unless I get lucky on a manual tune, which happened just once.
Drat, I thought it might do that at first but then I got to wonder if the tuner was just a separate unit that was interfaced through a stand protocal so it would matter what tuner was physically installed as to what you could receive, but to the firmware it wouldn't matter as it would just send standard commands. Guess I was wrong! Sorry if I encouraged ya to dork your unit! I'm wondering if the tuner is a generic tuner and is programmed for each region by the firmware now? That may make more sense as the factory could build just one unit and configure it for whatever country completely by a firmware load.

Unfortunately since there's no US firmware updates available I dunno how to get you back to NTSC. However in one of the threads on these units I do seem to remember something about a unit from "Denver" something or the other . . . I'll dig . . . maybe someone else in the US has relabled them? Maybe they have the firmware updates?

The other big thing is so far it wont accept the add clear button to allow me to dub from the hard drive even though I checked and the dvd burner still works. I can get a signal from my hdtuner into it just fine and it still records to the hd, just doesn't seem to want to dub to optical drive from it now.
That IS odd . . .

I'll try a few other things, like the french version, but looks like wally world will be selling me the new digital one for sure now. Well it's been a fun ride so far anyways
Hmmm, I wonder if you weren't looking for a reason to buy the new one anyway? <grin>

Maybe sell this one on eBay.eu since it's stuck in PAL/SECAM now?

I gotta get to bed, but maybe look for some firmware for the Eltax DVR555 as I've seen comments in the European Packard Bell forums about flashing their players with it's firmware.

Well I'm buying the new one no matter what anyways :D I figured out the dubbing problem, they moved the add delete button to Zero, one button to the right, works again. It even shows mono/stereo now but so far all is still mono when I do get a channel. I didn't rename the FW at all this time just burned it as is and it happily upgraded so yes if Denver makes makes a clone that has NTSC I bet it will work.
No I have a crappy Packard Bell screen up on boot. The forums for that machine have just as many problems as we do, then they even mentioned a clone for the US market, the 2001g.
I can still do recordings using my hdtuner, not sure if the Component in still works as now it thinks it has a SCART plug.
the annoying timer Icon is gone now and we'll see in a few days if it actually records anything I reset.

I can still do recordings using my hdtuner, not sure if the Component in still works as now it thinks it has a SCART plug.
the annoying timer Icon is gone now and we'll see in a few days if it actually records anything I reset.

It would be interesting to see if it still has macrovision enabled. You certainly do go where no one has gone before.

Here's the manual for the Denver 150:

http://www.denver-electronics.com/UploadetFiles/154/25/DVR-150,_english.pdf

Page 7 shows the add/clear and the 0 button reversed on the remote.

Page 8 shows the back panel. It looks like the component inputs of the Polaroid are gone. The Denver offers composite and svideo input. RGB, svideo, composite and scart output.

Interesting work Dartman. Without the original FW from the Polaroid is there any going back? Very risky but impressive!

I think the Denver DHD-161 is an even closer match, though I read somewhere it was just for the European market so it probably wont fix the tuner issue and if I recall correctly it didn't hav ethe YES DVD authoring software in it.

Yes, it's interesting and impressive but until a US version of the software comes out it's probably stuck with using European software with it's associated tuner issues. 8-<