In another thread a gentleman posted a bar similiar to what I am looking for, for my media room. Here is a pic of the bar that I am referring to:

http://img119.imageshack.us/img119/3256/1789186img26662gg.th.jpg (http://img119.imageshack.us/my.php?image=1789186img26662gg.jpg)

Similiar to his layout this bar will sit on a behind a row of chairs on the elevated portion of the flooring.

Here are my specifics:

- 7 to 8' wide, 2' deep
- Should be able to fit 3 stools comfortably

The gentleman made his and unfortunately I'm not that handy so I was wondering if anyone knew of a place that made something similiar or knew of someone in the Dallas area that could custom build such a thing. Appreciate any help you can offer.

I myself am building a bar following the design of the gentleman's bar you have posted a picture of. It is my first 'big' project too and it's so far going smoothly.

I for one think this would be a good entry point in the DIY world for you, as it does for me.

Now for construction tips, always start with a basic frame.

My frame at the front is 80cm high by 180cm long and 8 cm large. I basically just used pine for it's strength/ease of cutting etc...

the sides are 80 cm high by 60 cm long and 8cm large. Pine was also used there.

After the framing was all done, I then added the counter top which is 180 cm long by 60cm large and 2cm thick. After fastening the base to it, it is very sturdy( I sat on it and it doesn't flex. I'm only 68kg but thought this would be the approximate pressure made by 3 peoples elbows on the bartop!).

That's pretty much as far as I went as I have put the finishing on hold for now(well, for the last 2 months that is :o )

All I have lest is panelling the front/sides and straing/finishing the corners/cornices.

Cost so far is around AUS$50 without including my own time which is running up to 4h or so so far.

I hope this gave you a bit of an idea! :p

You can pm me if you need some more tips.

Cheers

Boris

James - The same posters theatre pics gave me the same idea as you, and I'm planning a similar bar/table for my HT.

It just makes sense as:

a) a way to hide the "ugly" back of the last row of seating

b) another row of seating for overflow

c) as a perfect height for bar stools to be able to look over the (in my case) 2nd row of seating on a riser

I plan to build mine, but I would be interested in anything you're able to find out in this thread.

I'm thinking about building one too... Anyone have some pics. ;)

It's really easier than it looks. If I would have known it was going to be such a popular piece, I would have taken more step by step pictures. As bbboza mentioned, just frame it out with your measurements and design ideas, then cover it with 1/2" or 3/4" plywood, then use various trim pieces to cover the joints and edges, and then through some supports underneath. I stained everything beforehand and just made sure all of my cuts were very accurate. I would rather cover up nail holes rather than stain it built and have to deal with drip marks and gravity. Here's a couple of pics to get you motivated or if your not handy, use the pics to have a friend or buddy build it with you. There's really no way to mess it up as long as you make sure that there enough leg room for your bar stools and that you can see over the row in front of you... Staining takes forever but it's worth it. If you paint it, even easier and your cuts don't have to be as accurate. A little caulk and some paint and problem solved...

http://public.fotki.com/jeffbaker24/bar__home_theater/img_1360.html

http://public.fotki.com/jeffbaker24/bar__home_theater/img_1386.html

http://public.fotki.com/jeffbaker24/bar__home_theater/img_1703.html

http://public.fotki.com/jeffbaker24/bar__home_theater/img_2597.html

http://public.fotki.com/jeffbaker24/bar__home_theater/img_2769.html

Thanks, for the pics, Jeff!

Did you just attach your table/counter-top with the supports you showed in one of the later pics? I'm trying to figure out whether the stud walls your built in the first pic are the same height as they are in the 2nd one, and if the top was just attached in from the side.

Well the pics got me motivated to get in touch with my inner handyman, unfortunately my wife caught wind of what I was up to and Googled a local custom woodworker :(

Appreciate the pics! The piece I am having made won't need a riser but it helps showing the builder exactly what I am looking for.

Hey James - Don't feel bad, sometimes I wish my wife didn't have as much confidence in my ability. She's always saying "you could do that yourself" for things that I've never worked on before in my life. Maybe I need to screw up some jobs to make her realize how difficult some things are. ;)

ETA - Be sure to update this thread with pics!

I decided if I can't make it for real I can make it virtually :) Here is what I think will best fit my need. I added the middle leg for support as the entire piece will be 8' wide. It limits me from adding a 3rd stool in the middle but I only planned on going with 2 high back stools the majority of the time.

http://img96.imageshack.us/img96/5492/counter5sh.th.jpg (http://img96.imageshack.us/my.php?image=counter5sh.jpg)

Since the Mrs. is intent on outsourcing the project if you have any recommendations for a good woodworker in Dallas send them my way!

Looks great!

That's basically what I had in mind, but I think I'll eliminate the middle leg. If I need added support, I'll use a elbow bracket like Jeff did above since mine will need to seat 3 stools.

Incidentally, I plan to use some leftover hardwood flooring as my countertop. I got this idea from the thread "HeyNow" had about his DIY bar. As I'd been pondering how to make use of this flooring (I didn't have enough for my bar), the idea just came together.

There's no need for the middle support if your using 3/4" or 1" and 2 or 3 wooden support brackets.

My high top is 48" high so I cut all of my vertical inside stained panels to 44" and nailed them on. Then, for the countertop I layed an 8ft section horizontally on the top part of all 3 vertical edges and threw some wood glue on it. Finally, I put a small 4" (Actually, 3-1/4") strip to finish out the inside and came to this point: http://public.fotki.com/jeffbaker24/bar__home_theater/img_1386.html The picture doesn't show it but the countertop is literally sandwiched inbetweens the top and bottom panels. Trim it out with some routed poplar and embossed wood and your all set.

Remember to make sure all of your wood grains are going to same way for the best look. Also, plywood comes in 8ft sections so if your going wider you may have to get fancy.

Jeff - What are the dimensions for your table's depth? The OP stated he wanted 2' depth, but I'm wondering if 18" would be enough counterspace.

Countertop surface area is 12" deep and 8' wide... Leg room is about 12 1/2" to the edge. I have sat back there before and never once had a problem with crossed legs or just kicking back. Now, on the other hand, my bar is 16" deep which is more than enough legroom...

Jeff

Sounds about right for what I want too, then. Thanks.

I have revised my counter as I realized the space could easily support a 9' bar. I think I may replace the wood top with 3/4" granite (if cost is reasonable). I like the look of the legs, although I did reduce how far they came out to avoid banging knees. They will be important if I decide to go with a granite counter top. Since I went wider I can now support 3 stools with able room for each stool. Below is a model I did of the counter with dimensions and below that is how I will layout my room with it.

http://img372.imageshack.us/img372/9784/counter25ft.th.jpg (http://img372.imageshack.us/my.php?image=counter25ft.jpg)

http://img270.imageshack.us/img270/654/campbellhometheater1ng.th.jpg (http://img270.imageshack.us/my.php?image=campbellhometheater1ng.jpg)

Great job Jeff. I pretty much based my riser on your design and plan on building a bar similar to yours. See here.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=676844

This thread will be very helpful as I can see the whole building process. First though I plan on building a component stand to house all my components under the screen. I'm really getting into this DIY thing and if it weren't for fellow AVSer's like you sharing your ideas and construction methods I'd be totally lost.

This is a great thread with great info on it. I am just now to the point of thinking about building the bar to sit behind my last row of seating. Keep the pictures coming and I'll try to post as many as I can while I'm building. My father is a retired wood worker and construction engineer, so he should be able to help out with ideas and tricks if I run into anything. I'm planning on having my bar about 10 feet wide, not sure about depth yet.

Any updates?

I've had some delays but I'm getting ready to start on mine soon...

I had some delays as well, called summer outdoor projects. I have only my bar framed and layed out using 2x4's right now. But I just quit my job and have two full weeks before starting my new job, so I'll have some free time to get caught up on the bar projected as well as laying the carpet in the room. I will be posting pictures soon.

I had some delays as well, called summer outdoor projects.

Same here.

jamescam - How 'bout you?

Bar Suggestions (if a bit late):
DIY works OK if you have the time and ability.
Try Ikea for countertops - they have oak butcher-block style countertops starting at $89.
Easy to work with, and you can stain or go natural with a coat of polyurethane.
I was able to do a curved bartop for a couple hundred rather than a custom Corian, granite or Silestone ($$$). My application was an alcohol service bar, curved bar and bar top, in the back corner of my multi-purpose HT/Bar/Party Room. Can’t wait to throw a Superbowl Party there next year ;-)

If you just want a straight 6’ or 8’ bar – you can get those off-the shelf from (booze) bar manufacturers. Beach Manufacturing is one, but there are many others: www.beachmfg.com. The standard 42” or 43” height might be a problem for the HT applications you envision (not sure the height you were thinking).
On the other hand, you can choose not to raise the floor and allow the height of the bar/chairs to take care of raising the individuals for you (30” stools and 42” bar).
The downside of an off-the-shelf bar is they are designed with the finished side (looks good) and seating side (countertop overhang) as the same side, with the other side as shelves/cabinets for alcohol. You probably want the finished side and seating side to be opposite for this application, but it can probably work either way.
Maybe you make the guys in the back seats play bartender ;-)

Buff,

How high is your riser, and how high is the bar top? I'm looking at building a bar similar to yours...but my 14" riser + berklines is going to make the bar quite high. Yours looks to be the perfect height...I'm wondering how much higher mine would have to be. Thanks - Andrew

Okay, I *finally* got around to getting started on this project yesterday.

Got the bar pretty much framed up, and the countertop on. All that's left is skin and trim.

By that I mean I need to cut/stain the plyboard "skin" and trim all the exposed edges with stained trim as well.

Countertop is 46" tall, which might be a little high but was needed so the loveseat could "tuck" under when reclined. See last pic for what I mean. Countertop depth is 18", plenty of room for dining, which is what I had in mind. Leg depth is 12", which turned out to be plenty too, when I tried it out.

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid212/p24fc217564c908b894d9a5c061d96aea/ed641d94.jpg

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid212/p4e3c19bf54ee64389cba9af6a34c681c/ed641cb5.jpg

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid212/pb9888d15b88b126353ad67251593c48e/ed641b17.jpg

Would appreciate any thoughts/suggestions.

Okay, I *finally* got around to getting started on this project yesterday.

Got the bar pretty much framed up, and the countertop on. All that's left is skin and trim.

By that I mean I need to cut/stain the plyboard "skin" and trim all the exposed edges with stained trim as well.

Countertop is 46" tall, which might be a little high but was needed so the loveseat could "tuck" under when reclined. See last pic for what I mean. Countertop depth is 18", plenty of room for dining, which is what I had in mind. Leg depth is 12", which turned out to be plenty too, when I tried it out.

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid212/p24fc217564c908b894d9a5c061d96aea/ed641d94.jpg

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid212/p4e3c19bf54ee64389cba9af6a34c681c/ed641cb5.jpg

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid212/pb9888d15b88b126353ad67251593c48e/ed641b17.jpg

Would appreciate any thoughts/suggestions.


Will anyone bump thier head when the loveseat reclines? This looks very good!

Will anyone bump thier head when the loveseat reclines? This looks very good!

Thanks! No, I tested and retested the head-bumping scenario to make sure that wouldn't happen.

Basically, the headrest drops down significantly when the chair reclines. Then when it's in full recline (bed-mode), it moves back slightly but well away from the lip of my counter.

That's why I put the middle support back a little, so the chair could nest into that space when reclined.

Granted, this is a true custom job...if I ever changed theatre seating, the bar could become obsolete, but so far I'm only out $16 in materials (the wood countertop was leftover from a previous job), so I'm not worried about it too much.

Thanks! No, I tested and retested the head-bumping scenario to make sure that wouldn't happen.

Basically, the headrest drops down significantly when the chair reclines. Then when it's in full recline (bed-mode), it moves back slightly but well away from the lip of my counter.

That's why I put the middle support back a little, so the chair could nest into that space when reclined.

Granted, this is a true custom job...if I ever changed theatre seating, the bar could become obsolete, but so far I'm only out $16 in materials (the wood countertop was leftover from a previous job), so I'm not worried about it too much.


46 " is pretty high. Have you given any thought to putting a platform for the stools?

Not yet. My wife and I are both average height and were comfortable using it as is.

That's always something I could add later on.

Correction, countertop is actually only 43" high. I had misremembered what part I had measured. 42" is "standard" for bar top, so this isn't too far off. No wonder it felt comfortable.

Anyway, I'm in the process of staining the "skin" right now and expect to add that in the next few days. Hope to have some genuine progress to show after the weekend.

Update: After a couple of nights in a row of nothing but sanding/staining, I've got the bar mostly "skinned" now. Next up is trim, which I've stained with only one coat so far. Check out pics below:

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid212/pdabd73d22cb36d63a666373d018fc923/ed538282.jpg

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid212/pfa0a18bbba54d9106d567c6ac4cbc999/ed538256.jpg

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid212/p834b03daa1e329028c1025caace11573/ed53822c.jpg

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid212/p5a9b97e75c906fbd93a0dcdd26eab667/ed538200.jpg

After worrying a bit about how stable it was, I've since attached it to the riser with lag bolts, and after adding the support brackets and the "skin," this baby is rock solid. It doesn't budge. I'd imagine it'll get even more solid once I add the base molding and the rest of the trim.

Irmo,

Are you going to build a front ledge so the drinks don't slide off onto the chair?

HeyNow - I hadn't planned on doing that, as I wanted the users to be able just slide their arms on/off the bar without having rub up against a ledge.

It looks like BuffBakerGA's version has the same idea, from the pic below:

http://images16.fotki.com/v281/free/49159/8/852308/3232031/IMG_2597-vi.jpg

And, I modeled my project entirely from his idea/design.

But, that would be an easy thing to add when I put that front trim on. I would just move it up a centimeter or two. Thoughts?

Btw, the photos make it look like there's a curve long ways across the bar (i.e. a hump in the middle), and the side photos look like the protruding edge bends downward. Not so in person...strange what a camera will do to an image. It might be user error for all I know though.

Btw, the photos make it look like there's a curve long ways across the bar (i.e. a hump in the middle), and the side photos look like the protruding edge bends downward. Not so in person...strange what a camera will do to an image. It might be user error for all I know though.
It's not user error. It's called barrel distortion, and it's common in zoom lenses, especially zoom lenses on point and shoot cameras.

But, that would be an easy thing to add when I put that front trim on. I would just move it up a centimeter or two. Thoughts?

When I looked at it and thought of the suggestion that is the first thing that popped into my mind. When you trim out, if you seam your panels that should be enough to do the trick. 'Cause if something is going to spill it is going to spill no matter what the lip height is. Looks good, especially with the budget. Is that solid oak (or whatever type of wood)? You could rip some pieces and/or route them to make some nice trim at least for the inner portion. If it is colored/finished oak you could probably match it.

I was talking about the front near the theater loveseat/chairs :)

HeyNow - I hadn't planned on doing that, as I wanted the users to be able just slide their arms on/off the bar without having rub up against a ledge.

It looks like BuffBakerGA's version has the same idea, from the pic below:

http://images16.fotki.com/v281/free/49159/8/852308/3232031/IMG_2597-vi.jpg

And, I modeled my project entirely from his idea/design.

But, that would be an easy thing to add when I put that front trim on. I would just move it up a centimeter or two. Thoughts?


I love Buff's design. I plan on making one as well.

It's not user error. It's called barrel distortion, and it's common in zoom lenses, especially zoom lenses on point and shoot cameras.

That explains it, thanks.

When I looked at it and thought of the suggestion that is the first thing that popped into my mind. When you trim out, if you seam your panels that should be enough to do the trick. 'Cause if something is going to spill it is going to spill no matter what the lip height is. Looks good, especially with the budget. Is that solid oak (or whatever type of wood)? You could rip some pieces and/or route them to make some nice trim at least for the inner portion. If it is colored/finished oak you could probably match it.

I've actually picked out a dental molding that I'm going to use for the edges. The stain I've chosen isn't a perfect match for the hardwood countertop (as you can tell from the stained panels in the pics so far), but it's close enough.

As for the solid oak question, are you referring to the countertop? It's prefinished flooring planks that I had leftover from my house construction.

I'm glad you mentioned budget as I'm still well under $100 so far on this project.

Thanks for the compliments/discussion.

I was talking about the front near the theater loveseat/chairs :)

Okay good. Yeah, I'm definitely trimming that out, but haven't decided on what I'm using yet. It won't be as high as the side bars, but will definitely keep drinks from sliding forward onto anybody's head. :)

Irmo,

Maybe lay a 2X4 flat across the front and then trim it out with plywood strips and your dental molding. The 2X4 will keep things from sliding forward without blocking the screen.

edit: duh me, I see that your side bars are only 2X4s....nevermind :)

Yeah, I thought about a 2x4 there too but it'll be too wide for that small space. Incidentally, that space was too narrow for another strip of hardwood too. If I lay a 2x4 on its short side, it will be too high in comparison to the sides.

I thought I may use a smaller size strip of cheap wood and then just lay the stained dental molding on top of that as you described. I also like the idea of an L shaped molding there too. I just need to raise it to the level of the countertop around it.

The final option is to rip another strip of the hardwood flooring to fit that space and then trim it up however. I don't have a table saw though and would have to rip the long strip of flooring with a skil saw, something I'd rather avoid.

Yeah, I thought about a 2x4 there too but it'll be too wide for that small space. Incidentally, that space was too narrow for another strip of hardwood too. If I lay a 2x4 on its short side, it will be too high in comparison to the sides.

I thought I may use a smaller size strip of cheap wood and then just lay the stained dental molding on top of that as you described. I also like the idea of an L shaped molding there too. I just need to raise it to the level of the countertop around it.

The final option is to rip another strip of the hardwood flooring to fit that space and then trim it up however. I don't have a table saw though and would have to rip the long strip of flooring with a skil saw, something I'd rather avoid.


Agree...and that oak flooring is hard stuff! When I did my top, I made sure I didn't have to rip any of that flooring down.

Exactly, and if it's just going to be covered by a piece of trim anyway, I don't see the point of the trouble.

I'm planning to finish this project up over the weekend, so hopefully I'll have the finished pics here on Monday.

The final option is to rip another strip of the hardwood flooring to fit that space and then trim it up however. I don't have a table saw though and would have to rip the long strip of flooring with a skil saw, something I'd rather avoid.


Ugh, yeah forget it lol. One trick is though, you can set up a jig with clamps using a square to guide you. Clamp a 2x4 in place as a guide plane for the skil. Use a nice sharp blade. But I agree, if you can get around it then do so.

I've actually picked out a dental molding that I'm going to use for the edges. The stain I've chosen isn't a perfect match for the hardwood countertop (as you can tell from the stained panels in the pics so far), but it's close enough.

As for the solid oak question, are you referring to the countertop? It's prefinished flooring planks that I had leftover from my house construction.

I'm glad you mentioned budget as I'm still well under $100 so far on this project.

Thanks for the compliments/discussion.


What I was getting at with the prefinish, is you'll come out with yet another shade if you rip and then refinish. But, it might add some character though.

Okay, so I didn't finish over the weekend like I promised, but I am finished now!

Well, mostly.

Anyway, here's the latest pics. After putting 2 coats of stain over the past few days, I cut and added the trim last night.

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid214/p49f0b68b75ea7383d94139cc83084274/ed388885.jpg

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid214/pc9e41289e0322629641aa61cf8c9d9fe/ed388867.jpg

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid214/p4a48356306d90a5b6dcf9d2b99763bb4/ed388842.jpg

The camera is very unforgiving here. The seams and nailholes aren't nearly this noticeable in person.

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid214/p3e3e19d6fc014a8b312da5f1fb0c499a/ed3887fb.jpg

Ready for guests!

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid214/p436d4fa8c4da78bdec376f6a1d58947c/ed3886a1.jpg

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid214/p9ae88a0aab01fe6e933a16fc8efbce32/ed3886c8.jpg

It'll get its first test tonight when the Gamecocks take on Mississippi State! We're having a few friends over to watch so I expect to be using all 3 rows of seating, plus a little overflow maybe. :)

Nice work! You should be proud. Thanks for sharing your steps to create this beauty.

Thanks, HeyNow!

And I appreciate the inspiration too. It was your post about using the hardwood flooring strips as the countertop that gave me the idea.

Buff,

How high is your riser, and how high is the bar top? I'm looking at building a bar similar to yours...but my 14" riser + berklines is going to make the bar quite high. Yours looks to be the perfect height...I'm wondering how much higher mine would have to be. Thanks - Andrew


My riser is about 11"-12" tall and the countertop is about 42" with the backsplash being 46".

That extra 3" or 4" in riser might make it a little difficult to see over the second row unless you can find some tall barstools. Or build a mini 4" riser for your bar stools and you are set...

Jeff

Over the New Year's holiday, I built a simple bar counter for the 3rd row. A couple of years ago I'd originally planned to get a granite top, and then last year I bought 12" granite tiles, but then I decided to simplify it and just used a 6' laminate countertop from HD. With 4 screws, I can remove the laminate if I ever get motivated to mess with granite.

I stained the oak to match the rest of my HT.

The tall bar stools (only 2) can see easily over the seats on the 2nd row riser.

Plus, there are power outlets for the crockpot (chili or cheese dip during football games). And I can turn on the 3rd row of recessed lights back there without getting any light up on the screen...

http://crtforum.com/img/bar1.jpg

http://crtforum.com/img/bar2.jpg

I put shelves on the inside for media storage...
top shelf has XBox360 games and concert DVDs
2nd shelf is DVDs
3rd shelf is HD-DVDs and D-Theater DVHS:
http://crtforum.com/img/bar3.jpg

I actually had a similar bar in the back and just removed it a couple of weeks ago to have room for a false wall. I never really used it at all over the 5 years it was there. I also allows for a little more room up front to add some kid seating if needed. I moved the concession/pop cordn machine to outside the theater.

Looks good Clarence! Given my room size constraints, I'm forced to go with a bar if I want a 2nd row. Did you have to order that top, or did that have that one in stock somewhere?

Hi Matt-

It was in stock at Home Depot. IIRC, it was about $60-$70.

I used the matching laminate endcaps, which were ~$11. They intentionally make them about 1/8" too large, so you have to file them down to match the countertop. It turned out well, but it was time consuming. I tried using a dremel and a palm sander, but ended up using a hand file to get a nice straight edge.

If I had to do it over again, I'd build the sides and back edges up like the example the OP shows in the very top post:
http://img119.imageshack.us/img119/3256/1789186img26662gg.th.jpg (http://img119.imageshack.us/img119/3256/1789186img26662gg.jpg)

I have a half wall that I turned into a bar behind my second row of seats. I love it, I have my computer set up on one end and can fit 5 -7 stools depending on how fat people arev :). I love it. I actually spend more time sitting there watching football then on the couches, although that may change for while since i added bass shakers. Hey Irmo, I see you are a big Gamecocks fan, so am I. They had a nice will in their bowl game!!!!

Gotta love watching them on Saturdays on the big screen

Great job everyone.

I did a sketchup of what I am planning.

Take a look:

I have a half wall that I turned into a bar behind my second row of seats. I love it, I have my computer set up on one end and can fit 5 -7 stools depending on how fat people arev :). I love it. I actually spend more time sitting there watching football then on the couches, although that may change for while since i added bass shakers. Hey Irmo, I see you are a big Gamecocks fan, so am I. They had a nice will in their bowl game!!!!

Gotta love watching them on Saturdays on the big screen

Sorry, didn't see your post til now...yep, bowl win was nice! Go Gamecocks!

http://img119.imageshack.us/img119/3256/1789186img26662gg.th.jpg (http://img119.imageshack.us/img119/3256/1789186img26662gg.jpg)


Has anyone found something like this on the internet. This is exactly what I have been looking for, but have been unable to find anything "pre-made". I don't have the time to build one, so I was hoping that someone here may have run across one somewhere.

This has been a great thread. Exactly what I was looking for.

My question is what to use for the "countertop"? I saw several examples (flooring, granite, etc.) and it would be easy to buy one from Ikea or HD, but I would like it to match the sides, (like in the picture from the very first post). Can you just stain a piece of plywood like the rest of the bar or is that not recommended for the top?

I have never made anything like this, but it doesn't seem to difficult and would be fun to give it a try.

I'm in the process of building mine.

http://gallery.avsforum.com/data/507/IMG_0924.jpg

This has been a great thread. Exactly what I was looking for.

My question is what to use for the "countertop"? I saw several examples (flooring, granite, etc.) and it would be easy to buy one from Ikea or HD, but I would like it to match the sides, (like in the picture from the very first post). Can you just stain a piece of plywood like the rest of the bar or is that not recommended for the top?

I have never made anything like this, but it doesn't seem to difficult and would be fun to give it a try.

Lots of folks use plywood for the top. Add stain and many coats of Poly and you are done. I think ply on the bar top can look very good. I would suggest tight grained ply such as birch or maple. Oak has a tendency of having a broad grain pattern.