Finally the DVD is finished. Turned out really well and should be a boon to the people struggling to set a 1292 up from scratch or those trying to eeek out the last 5%.

There is a copy of the full service manual on a separate disk.

PM me for details.

Sorry Graham excuse my ignorance , I havnt been in the loop for a while busy with my other evil hobby. Whats this DVD????

BTW are U having trouble with the 300 forum??

Awsome. PM sent!

Fantastico!

I'll send you a PM too..

Thanks!!!

Now all I need is a finished 1292 to calibrate..

Yeah the 300 forum is dead dead dead.

That will teach them to use custome forum software with big server overheads. The host pulled the site cause it was slowing down all his other apps.

They are trialing a few of the stock forum softwares like Vbulletin etc so they can pick a new one.

Try www.oz300zx.com in the meantime. Catch you there.

The DVD is for the guys in the USA and elsewhere. I cant easily get over there to setup machines. So I made this DVD so they can do it themselves.

You are not all that easy to get to either. Maybe you need one as well?? PM me

GJ :D

Sorry Graham excuse my ignorance , I havnt been in the loop for a while busy with my other evil hobby. Whats this DVD????

BTW are U having trouble with the 300 forum??

Would this DVD be much help in setting up a 1272? I feel just as clueless as when I started looking at this forum early last year. I really want to get my 1272 hung before year end, and am very slowly moving toward that goal.
Thanks, Mark M.

Fantastico!

Now all I need is a finished 1292 to calibrate..

I could make this happen for you, but I still have one more thing to do before wrapping it up.

But as I've mentioned in my PM. I've been showing off the unfinished 1292 in my shop to three forum members so far, and I've been showing the difference between the red and green CRT's. The red CRT has a neck board that I've worked my magic on. The green CRT has one of the KBK modded neck boards that you sent me. We've demoed the dots and text on black background with brightness at various levels. I've even identified to them the two different boards to confirm my demo. And I've shown them the finished mini PCB board that I'll be installing later.

Everyone that has seen it so far has remarked on the difference in the two tubes. With this confirmation, I've decided to back away from the 1292 for now, and deal with a few other issues that are more pressing. However, there has been off line dialog on the 1292, and it will continue off line until a time when I can bring this all together, and when that happens there will be a page on my website with further info on this.

my apologies for posting this here.

Come on Graham, where's my DVD? I sent you the money last night, checked my mail this morning and nothing! :D

Would this DVD be much help in setting up a 1272? I feel just as clueless as when I started looking at this forum early last year. I really want to get my 1272 hung before year end, and am very slowly moving toward that goal.
Thanks, Mark M.

Its possible that this guide could help give you an understanding. There are a few areas that are pretty different or that you dont have the controllability with a 1272 that you do with a 1292.

EG:

Lens flapping
Electronic Astigmatism
Tube tow in.

Are hard to adjust with a 1272. But the rest is the same

Its a hard call. I can elaborate better in PM.


Graham

Come on Graham, where's my DVD? I sent you the money last night, checked my mail this morning and nothing! :D

LMAO, I will see how many Mathew has duped over the weekend, and post em straight off.

bump

I just got my DVD.

That scene where a kangaroo runs off with the remote is priceless! I was a bit confused by the method of checking grayscale by looking through a bottle of Fosters though...

;)

Kangaroo's don't run...

And WE DON'T DRINK FOSTERS!!

No, that's just the how you say beer there, right?

Mmmmmmmmm Fosters, Australian for Beer!:)

Ericglo

It's this marketing scam perpetuated on the world - the only time I've EVER had a Fosters is on a plane, they must have some deal with Qantas.

It's this marketing scam perpetuated on the world - the only time I've EVER had a Fosters is on a plane, they must have some deal with Qantas.


The English are notorious for this misconception that we all Fosters swilling Paul Hogans.
The fact is that it is awful syrupy crap that I would only Drink if the world ran out of Tooheys New , XXXX , VB and Goon Bag , in that order. :p

I don't think I have even seen it on tap in a Pub here , and in Queensland we have Bundaberg rum on tap !

Tooheys New , XXXX , VB = Yuck

What that hell is "Goon Bag"? Must be a Queensland thing. I don't think the furriners realise the amount of regional variation we have in the beer you drink, and the which game the term "football" refers to...;)

Aussie mass market beer is terrible. It'll probably get me strung up, but the everyday beer I buy is Amsterdam Mariner - cheaper than a VB and tastes heaps better. It's not my favourite beer or anything, but it's $29 a carton/slab/case/whatever you call 24 beers, and I like it a whole lot more than any local cheap beer.

Goon Bag = Cask wine

And here we are thinking all Victorians drink VB or Melbourne Bitter .

Goon Bag..haha

Sounds a little weird for someone like me from Los angeles!

Gotta give those beers a try!


Martin

Look it up :D

http://www.urbandictionary.com/define.php?term=goon+bag

Just quickly:
A high percentage of Victorians do drink VB. I don't think Mark W knows a lot of yobbos and their drinking habits. I know lots of beer swilling lounge lizards and VB is usually king. Beer can be a personal thing and there are better beers around, hundreds in fact. But for a good basic beer that is bought everywhere it is hard to go past VB. I don't know anyone who drinks Fosters. Most of the CUB beers such as VB, Fosters and Melbourne Bitter taste very similar. But they're all 4.9 to 5% alcohol. Getting pissed as a mute is not difficult. ;)

HA! You don't know me that well - everyone drinks VB. It was the first beer I had (all 2 cans then fell over) at 15.

I'll drink it now, if it's ice cold. But there's better beer out there - a whole world of better beer.

What's funny is people pay double for Crown Lager (not a real lager) - which tastes almost exactly the same....and the real yobbos drink Jim Beam cans.

I'm curious what the DVD recommends in regards to leaving AKB on or turning AKB off?


-Brian

Graham,

Have you sent them out yet? Just wondering when to expect mine.

Thanks

Sorry for the delay, Matthew posted the bulk down last Friday to me from interstate. They havent arrived yet.

I will turn the around quick, Promise :)

DVD's have been posted.

The typical time to overseas destinations is 10 days.

Hope everyone enjoys it.

:)

Finally the DVD is finished. Turned out really well and should be a boon to the people struggling to set a 1292 up from scratch or those trying to eeek out the last 5%.

There is a copy of the full service manual on a separate disk.

PM me for details.


I am interested in this dvd. Please send me details.

Graham,

I just got the DVD and it looks terrific from what I've seen so far.
This will be a big help towards getting the PQ that I've always been dreaming of.
I just want to say THANK YOU !!

Kjartan

Graham,

I just got the DVD and it looks terrific from what I've seen so far.
This will be a big help towards getting the PQ that I've always been dreaming of.
I just want to say THANK YOU !!

Kjartan

My Pleasure :o

Hope it really helps you Kjartan. That is amazingly fast postage. Less than a week by normal airmail.

There are some PC test patterns on the Service manual DVD that you can use. :)

Graham

Graham,

Mine arrived yesterday - thanks.

Dave

Got mine yesterday.

I'm in one of my super busy times at work, but hope to put it to use in a week or two.

Checked it out a bit. Looks good! Lucky my Momitsu is a universal player, as another player I tried it on (Panny RP-56) wouldn't play it.

BTW, it's "flashlight" not "torch"... ;)

What would we do without Chinese DVD players ?? :D

Its not region coded, But is a PAL disk. Maybe the Panasonic doesnt like DVD-r's?

Made a PAL disc of cartoons for a friend and none of thier set top DVD players would play it even though there was no region code (or maybe it was 0.) I thought more players were ok with PAL so... You may have others that wind up have-ing troubles.

Using a pc or a laptop would work. I imagine a laptop would be the best as you can watch nearby where your working on the pj.

-Brian

Good idea about the laptop.

I just wanted to warn everyone about Graham and his technique to "dial in" a 1292. Graham was nice enough to stop by my home in California while he was on vacation and spend - oh about 8 hours working on my set. I had some issues with mechanical set up so we spent a couple of hours trying to fix them, but once Graham got going on the set-up - things started to change.

Actually when he was done and I had picked up a DVI cable to replace my RGB cable (using Mike Downing's IFB-DVI card) there were very faint grey lines barely visible between video lines. What had he done? I did not want faint grey lines on the screen, even if they could only be seen from a foot away. That wild Australian had completely ruined my set-up. Oh wait a minute. I was running the set at 1920 x 1080p. That means that the overlap I had seen at 1080p previously had been replaced by the faintest trace of scan lines between the video lines.

Yes folks - Graham had done such an excellent job setting up my 1292 that it was now not only able to display 1920 x 1080p, but there were even faint scan lines visible (only visible from a foot or two from the screen). I don't know what he did to make the spot size so incredibly small. I didn't even think it was possible - but I have the proof. I have been testing Blu-ray and HD-DVD drives in an HTPC (a benefit of working for a PC OEM) and I can tell you - 1080p is pretty amazing. HDTV still looks good, but it is only 1080i. 1080p makes a 1292 really shine!

Graham - you are a magician. Check your messages. I want to buy one of your DVD's to see if I can learn any of your secrets. I have no idea what you are charging for it, but whatever it is - it must be worth every penny.

Thanks again for taking time from your vacation to help me out.

Sincerely,

Ed

I am getting embarrased now Ed !!! ;)

Thanks buddy

Next time I come over I am looking forward to meeting up with a few more AVS mates.

I would suggest anyone with a G70, or D50 G90 12xx should ALSO be buying this DVD, a lot of similarities, and information that is directly interchangeable between these sets. The secrets of Astig are also demystified. Two thumbs up!

Wow!

Hey Graham, are you still in California? Please email me if you are! :)

Wow!

Hey Graham, are you still in California? Please email me if you are! :)

I wish I was, I had a great time when I was over there in MAY. Unfortunately three weeks went way too quick.

I have to tell you all how much i enjoyed my trip and point out there are amazing similarities between Australia and California. I felt very much at home.

Took me about a month to get used to driving on the Aussie side of the road when i got back.

I will be back soon, Gotta give Vegas another beating!! :D

The California high desert is just an amazing place! I am still in awe of it.

Here's a few pics of from my trip.

hoover dam
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y111/grahamrjohnson/dam.jpg

Wow Grand Canyon
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y111/grahamrjohnson/canyon1.jpg

Hmmm Death Valley on the way to Vegas
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y111/grahamrjohnson/death.jpg

Mojave desert is a fanstastic place
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y111/grahamrjohnson/shrunk.jpg

Joshua tree national park. I loved this part.
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y111/grahamrjohnson/flint.jpg

quote - "I would suggest anyone with a G70, or D50 G90 12xx should ALSO be buying this DVD, a lot of similarities, and information that is directly interchangeable between these sets. The secrets of Astig are also demystified. Two thumbs up!"

I think I would agree apart from the 12xx as there would not be so many similarities there. The G70 and the 1292 and the G90 share quite a bit of setup technique but the 12xx is pretty much different on a lot of it.

If you want lens flapping and better mechanical aim on the 12xx you have to do some mods and even then it's not simple to make the adjustments afterwords. And the 12xx should have more magnetics on the neck and no EM stuff so eventually you're just left with similarities in the Geometry setup.

-Brian

p.s. I'm tempted to pick up the DVD because I can tell the 1292 and the G70 share quite a bit and it would be useful.

p.p.s Nice rental car, man that's a pretty machine.

I think I would agree apart from the 12xx as there would not be so many similarities there. The G70 and the 1292 and the G90 share quite a bit of setup technique but the 12xx is pretty much different on a lot of it.



OK Brian....might of been stretching it with the 12xx comment ( a 1292 is still a 12xx technically :rolleyes: ) But the essentially there are some fundamentals relevant to all CRT's.

I have learnt a lot that I can apply to my G70. I would be doing the flapping much earlier in the setup sequence than Graham does on the 1292....It was good to how someone as experienced as him goes about the task. I've always been pretty confident in my set-up abilities, and I'm too tight to pay for a professional calibration...this way I still get to do it myself, see someone else walk me thru areas I know haven't gone....and all for a fraction of a prof calibration.

p.p.s Nice rental car, man that's a pretty machine.

I have to tell you. that new Hyundai Sonata was a very pleasant car to drive.

5 speed auto and everything that opens and shuts. The suspension was a bit on the soft side for me. But you cant complain about 32 MPG on the Hwy and 25 around L.A.

The V6 is very smooth.

Surprised the hell out of me. I never liked Hyundai's but I could live with this one.

Yes the EM focus steps are obviously redundant on 1272 as well as the lens flapping etc. I did however go into a bit of detail about what the adjustments actually do as well as how to adjust them. So from that point of view it is more than just a 1292 DVD.

I think I had the same car last time I had a rental car and I loved it pretty much. I've always thought of them as Honda wanabee's but looks like they are getting it right these days.

We thought for a moment that the 3 kidz seats would fit better in the Taurus but they did fine in the back seat of the Sonata and it handled great and stuff.

Hi All,
glad people here liked the DVD I shot for Graham. This is the first we've done together and he tells me a load have gone out so far which is great.
I must admit it's really helped me in my setup as well!!

So if we're going to do anything further it might help if I could get some feedback from anyone who has used the DVD which might help if we shoot another guide of some sort or decide to update this guide sometime down the track.

Cheers,

Matthew O'Sullivan

Hey Graham, did you wear your Crocodile Hunter outfit when you shot the DVD??

Did you stick your thumb up it's butthole?? ;)

I reckon I gotta see this DVD - it's funny watching someone you know :)

A recent episode of Lost had them driving a Taurus around "Sydney". At least was RH drive, but there's about 3 Taurus's in the whole country. The world's ugliest car took off like a lead balloon when Ford tried to sell them here. Aussies like big RWD's (and soft roaders..), not funny squashy looking FWD's. :)

So if we're going to do anything further it might help if I could get some feedback from anyone who has used the DVD which might help if we shoot another guide of some sort or decide to update this guide sometime down the track.

Cheers,

Matthew O'Sullivan

Matthew, are you still ignoring lunch calls from your old man :D

He now phones me in the afternoons after 4 to offer crisis management advice and tell me what new projects mum's got him up to................

I reckon I gotta see this DVD - it's funny watching someone you know :)



You know what would be funny Mark. Doing a video of you aligning an NEC. With a heap of us standing all around with beers wondering " WTF did NEC do this to us for" :eek: :p

:confused: :confused: :confused: bloody NEC's !! LMFAO

Well, I didn't mean to start a brand debate.

I was taking the piss out of you, not your projector :) But yeah, you better bring A LOT of beers if you want to watch me setup a NEC...

Here's some feedback,


Make one for the G70. There's quite a few G70 users and the number's grow-ing as more of them leave initial installation points. It's quite similar to the the 1292 so the exist-ing stuff puts you one step ahead. And shares so much in common with the G90 I guess it could just as well be a G90 setup or G70/G90 setup DVD.

Make the G70 version and I certainly will order one. (Although I've stud-ied and practiced all the adjustments and I already feel somewhat qualified to do my own setup.)

-Brian

Graham...come over to WA and you can use my '70 for the guinea pig.... :D

Well, I didn't mean to start a brand debate.

I was taking the piss out of you, not your projector :) But yeah, you better bring A LOT of beers if you want to watch me setup a NEC...

Dude, I was shining you on big time!! :D

Hey have you rung that guy yet?

I will have a discussion with Mathew about the next DVD project. We would need a G70 to play with.

well i own a copy,content is great but the camera shots need to be more set-up,lighting/focus/viewing perspectives etc,also mabye include a legal disclaimer to cover yourselves,and maybe even go into tube replacement.So then there is only one thing for it,come over to my place swap my de-lamed tube and use my hd camera to film it all,we all win :D

I would suggest a walk thru of a grey scale calibration.

Graham

I can top Newbiedan's offer of a G70 as a guinea pig - I'm in Croydon North if you and Matthew want to come around.

I would suggest a walk thru of a grey scale calibration.

I purposly left out doing the grey scale. Its almost impossible to set without having a colourimeter.

I have a pretty good idea of what 6500K is but it is very subjective. The best I could do in the DVD is basically point out what the controls do.

As to how they are set without a colourimeter is anyones guess.

Mathew is in Canberra so its not a short trip for him. he is actually closer to Cooma which is in the middle of nowhere.

I am however pretty close to Croydon. I live in Vermont South about 15 mins from there.

Graham

I popped around the other week to pick up your disk (when you were enjoying changing the disc pads on the Pulsar ET! :) ).

Have had a quick look at the disc that night and will hopefully spend a bit more time with it tonight (NewbieDan recommeded it to me).

Cheers

Stephen

Let me know what you recon Steve :D

That boy will be the death of me. Brakes one week. The bloody turbo sh!t itself this week. Lucky I had a 300zx one to replace it with. Problem was I had to fabricate a few pipe joiners etc to fit it on. Took a whole day to get it right.

Now its blowing smoke again. It never ends with children.

What about discuss-ing grey-scale with a color meter? I have a $99 color meter which perhaps is not the best but claims to be accurate enough and when I compared it to another forum members Graphic One+ColorFACTs setup that cost 2K it was measure-ing almost exactly the same values (some measurements did measure exactly the same.)

You may be able to learn about cheap color meters in AVS's display calibration forum. So long as you own a color meter you ought to be able to document it's use. Grey-Scale is hard to get "perfect" but fairly simple to attempt compared to Focus for example.

-Brian

Just installed my new green tube and used our own DVD to help calibrate (talk about helping yourself..................sheesh)

Watching me then help me now feels like something out of an episode of something that didn't make it to air................:-)



I'm using a SMART III version 2.0 I got last year and although it was not included in the DVD, the process is interesting. Has anyone else used this with a 1292 as I'd like to compare procedures and results.

Questions:



Is balancing maximum output and phosphur burn a problem?


So what do people think in regard to a colour calibration DVD?
Should it thought in terms of a number of differnet systems and different projectors?
Or is this just too complex to tackle well enough in this DIY format?

Thanks,

Matthew,

Was your 1292 suffering from the dreaded "green spot" problem? I have seen several 1292's with this problem. For some reason, on an all green screen you can see an area ("spot") on the green phosphor that is usually lighter than the surrounding area. What is up with that? Did Sony let a lot of systems go out with this defect? It is not gernerally visible in the video - unless you have an all white or all green screen, but it is hard to understand how a system with the MSRP of the 1292 would be allowed to go out this way.

Ed

In the 1292 Calibration DVD I did for Graham Johnson, we very quickly found the big spot and G explained in the DVD what it was all about.
In a nutshell
A manufacturing problem which shows up over time. Go figure.............

So he got me a replacement in the US on his last trip and now I'm playing calibrating it using the DVD about the same machine which is kind of fun really............

The Smart III 2.0 Colour Calibration is ok and I'm talking to Steve who developed it (mainly for LCD's and DLP's) about using it optimally on the 1292.

the problem is called Phosphur Delamination I believe.................

All up now I have replaced 8 tubes with this fault. Sony should be ashamed of themselves. Some of these tubes look brand new. But are unusable.

Well you wouldn't mind if it was a cheap little thing.
But they're really expensive and time-consuming to install and recalibrate.....

Got my copy in. Very helpful. Full of information that I didn't know.

Thanks a lot!




On a side note I had a quick question when setting mine up. To get the cross hatch centered on the green tube I have to use about all of my adjustment on the remote. Is there a mechanical way to do this that I might have overlooked when skimming through the dvd? I plan on watching it again tonight before the final tuning in.

Thanks

Jason

On a side note I had a quick question when setting mine up. To get the cross hatch centered on the green tube I have to use about all of my adjustment on the remote. Is there a mechanical way to do this that I might have overlooked when skimming through the dvd?

No Jason there is no way to move the image within the raster on a SONY. ( there are adjustments on the PCB's that can be used but are not user adjustable)

Is it still a problem when you disconnect all input and just use the internal pattern generator?

Please ley me know.

GJ

I unhooked my HPTC which was turned off. Then I reset everything to 128. On green only I maxed out height and width then put on the grid pattern. It was only off to the left a little then. After I centered it on the tube I was left with these #'s

109
128
102
137

I repeated for the blue and red and there numbers were same. Since I didn't have anyone to help me square the projector to the screen, I was going to center the green hatch, then center that on the screen to make sure the projector was square. Do those numbers look ok or within spec? Seems like I have a lot of adjustment now. Maybe I was just tired last night.

Thanks

Jason

thats looks right now Jason.

Whats happening is the porch settings on the PC are obviously not quite right for the projector.

remember what I said abiout the test pattern. It will sync up onto the applied source.

So if the signal you applied isnt quite right. the test pattern will mirror that. Position faults and all.

Dont sweat it. Just put your normal signal source back on ( scaler) and all will be good.

If it is the PC you will need to use Power Strip to reposition the video in the correct spot for the CRT.

Certainly no projector faut.

Finally getting a chance to try a setup with the DVD...

I'm having a bit of trouble with one step though.

I'm at the point were I am trying to maximise the raster on green. I have adjusted pincushion to square the image on the tube face. Problem is when I go to use the SIZE function, the crosshatch gets bigger, not the raster.

If anyone can tell me what I am doing wrong, it would be appreciated!

BTW, Matt I am glad you were there to remind Graham to explain some things in more detail. Much appreciated!

You have probably not rolled back the blanking. Roll the blanking right out so it is not on the tube face at all.

You have probably not rolled back the blanking. Roll the blanking right out so it is not on the tube face at all.

Hi Graham,

I tried that but it didn't help. Maybe I'll try it again. Regardless things are looking better. I think my next step should be to get HD to my projector. I think I'm expecting too much sharpness wise from DVD...

Hmmm thats odd, There should be enough movement to push the raster right off the screen.

The blanking is block dependant did you do it in every memory block?

DVD's are SOFT.

Hmmm thats odd, There should be enough movement to push the raster right off the screen.

The blanking is block dependant did you do it in every memory block?

DVD's are SOFT.

I don't think I did all the blocks. Just the one and saved it to all blocks. Anyways I'm not going to totally maximise raster anyways so it's no big deal.

It was helpfull getting the explanation of how to set the lens flapping. I just hate all the unscrewing and screwing! I didn't spend much time on it, but definately got it better. Especially the blue which was most off.

Any recommendation on what distance to start with on pjcalc for a torus? I think I went with centre of the screen, the deepest part.

My biggest problem right now is I believe some of the unistrut I used for my mount is magnetized because I have one corner that pulls up. I can only fix that with ZONE. I guess I should look for a demagnetizer!

Hmmm I have no idea about the torus, bUt will be interested in what you find cause I am gonna build one as well.

I usually dont use any blanking. Maybe only to cut the weird line on the top off on some sources.

I just recieved the DVD today and have watched it in whole, and a couple of chapters more than once... :)
Just great work! I pity all owners of other types of CRT pjs that they can't get this type of support. However, I suspect that it would be very, very useful even for other types of EM, LC CRTs, just that the procedures are slightly different...
I haven't, until now, had any clear idea on in which order to do stuff, but this DVD just lines it out beautifully, thanks!
Super! :)

I have a Sony 1252q and am interested in this DVD. Is it possible for me to get a copy?

I just got my copy in today as well. I've only watched a few parts so far, but this is going to be a huge, huge help in setting up my G70. Thanks for putting it together.

I am glad I am not the only person that is convinced Crownies and VB come out of the same tap - tastes identical to me.
I'm partial to McAffries (sp?) on tap, but will drink VB if it is near frozen and there is nothing else.

The *real* yobbos drink the cheap Jim Beam knockoff cans, the real stuff is for your upmarket yob.

I have a Sony 1252q and am interested in this DVD. Is it possible for me to get a copy?

No probs, send me a PM and I will advise.

Graham :)

Hi Graham,

So .. is it a Best Seller ???

Hi Graham,

So .. is it a Best Seller ???
Well we've sold 28 so far and i have orders for another 4.

I'm waiting for my academy award nomination :D

Hi Graham,
Videos great.

Could you post a link to the fan mod thread that Matthew showed.

Cheers
Craig


edit**

Found it!!

Just how loud is the sony 1292Q? (http://archive.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?threadid=7818)

Hi Craig my 1292 was originally about 69DB on my el cheapo sound meter from the local electronics store i used on the DVD.
it went to about 59DB after the mods. Thats at the machine.
With my half hushbox effoert you saw in the DVD it's now about 54 at the machine and 48db at the close listening spot.
Matthew

About the fan mods... I have a really stupid question:
What number of pins should all the fans have? And is there soldering involved or can one simply unplug and unscrew the old fans?
Is there any detailed instruction available anywhere? I have never changed fans on a CRT before and the thought of it makes me somewhat nervous... :)

Ok, I had the machine open yesterday and noticed that the rear and the top fans are three pin, right? How about the ones in the front, in the power supply module? :)
Maybe all are three pin and I'm just being ignorant? :)

They all have a sense pin. Three pins on the lot.

Thanks m8! :)

What do you think about the CFM specs? How low do I dare go? I can find 119 mm fans that meet the same specs as people have used in that thread locally, but not the 80 and 92 mm ones.
Dare I go as low as 19,5 cfm for the 80 mm fans?

Thanks m8! :)

What do you think about the CFM specs? How low do I dare go? I can find 119 mm fans that meet the same specs as people have used in that thread locally, but not the 80 and 92 mm ones.
Dare I go as low as 19,5 cfm for the 80 mm fans?

If you are going to run 1080p, do not change the speed or capacity of the neck board fans. I odnt think the others are as critical.

Just a quick update on 1080p output quality....
tried various DVI cables from the DVD player/Lumagen HDP to my 1292 at a length of up to 7.5 m. At 5 to 7 m there were green speckles noticable on all material. So I bought a Belkin Pure AV DVI -D 5m at around AUD$200.
Blue speckles this time :-(
So moved DVD and processor next to 1292.
DVD to processor less than 1m SDI and DVI
Lumagen to 1292 1m DVI
Huge pic quality improvement over previous longer DVI cable run setup.

Going to recalibrate from scratch now my new green tube is bedded in a bit.

I followed the fan advice from the thread on 1292 fan mods and brought fans in Oz (Melbourne I think).
Seems to work well for me so far...

Thanks,
Matthew O'Sullivan

Hugo (one of our Newfie monsters) prefers the improved picture quality and is eagerly waiting the new Lassie film on DVD.....................

webmst>> Try an optoelectrical DVI-cable from PureLink! It'l blow all problems away at any length up to 150 m - with 1080p@60Hz! :)

Hmm... I tried changing the top two fans to the Papst versions that where talked about in the closed fan mod thread.
I noticed that I had to switch two cords in the connector that's attached to the fan and changed out the first fan.
It gave me error code 01 and shut down.
I changed the cords around a couple of times but only got shutdown and 01.
Then I tried a last time and changed back to the way I first had changed them to and then it worked!
Very well...
I sat down and changed the cords the same way on all the fans that I had bought.
But the strange thing is - none of the other fans are accepted by the 1292! The PJ turns on an the fans rotate for a couple of seconds, but then it shuts down (if I connect the cords "wrong" it shuts down much faster).
It works just fine with the first one that I installed, but not if I change the other top one on the other side of the pj (I have it floor mounted)!
The fans are identical and they are the same Papst as have been used by others but still it doesn't work... Go figure...
Can it be that the combined power consumption of two different fans makes the pj stop? How come then that other people have done this with success? :)
I can't figure this one out... Help? :)

I just wanted to mention to anyone with a 1292 that wants a Premier mounts PBM-1292 mount I have a listing in the for sale section.

Thanks and sorry to hijack Graham's thread.

His DVD is amazing and very helpful order one if you have a 1292!

Ok, I found an archived thread where it says that one should solder the "sense" thread to the "ground" thread. Is this correct? How come the "sense" thread is active on the original fans? Hmmm... Feels like I've missed some info here, but it's really hard to find info on this so if someone wants to fill in, feel free to do so. :)

Ok, I have now found the info I wanted... Sorry for polluting this thread... :)

Uhmmm... I didn't get it working quite so well as I thought after finding the info on the "sensor pin trick"...

I tried soldering the white cord of the Papst fan to the blue cord, but that one didn't work at all. Isn't that the way one is supposed to do? To connect the sensor and the ground wire? I tried this combined cord in both the hole that sits on the ground pin (then the pj runs for some seconds and then shuts down) and on the middle, sensor pin, but then it shuts down immediately.
Maybe I'm mixing the Papst cords up here? Does anyone know if the white really is sensor and the blue is ground and the red is plus?
I thought it would be easy after finding a description of the "trick" but nope... :)

Still having one fan that works on several locations in the pj without it shuttiong down though. :) The other ones (except for the one I tried resoldering) are connected exactly the same way but they work on no locations...

I feel really stupid. :o :)

I got it... Now all fans and the pj are working. Still don't know why the one that has the wrong connections works, but maybe the solderings internally in it is combining sensor and ground... :)

thanks for the tip on DVI cable I'll check it out.

At the moment though I've fixed the problem by putting the Lumagen HDP and DVD player less than a metre from the CRT projector. Now I have a 1m SDI from DVD to Lumagen and a 1 m DVI from Lumagen to 1292. Definite picture improvement. Now I'm thinking of a 5m audio coaxial for the DVD player to processor instead of a 5m DVI cable !!



Thanks for the suggestions arioch,

Matthew

I had an Email from Joh Spackman. asking me to clear up a few points.

I figured it would be good to post here in case anyone else had the same isssue.

QUOTE=Jon Spackman]Graham,

I have watched your setup dvd like three times and not getting some basic info(I need to send you the money for this disc by the way :D ).

1)how do you determine the distance for the projector from the screen? You already had it set on matt's and never said much about it.
2) are there G2 adjustments for this projector and how do you adjust them (are the similar to a GAIN adjustment on most displays?)?
3) I really really want to set up a 90" wide 2.35:1 screen. IS it really that bad for it if I plan to watch 2.35:1 for 80% viewing and 1.85:1 for the rest?
4)I think i get the raster setup, but will it be different for a 2.35:1 setup? in the dvd you show a finished green but I am not sure which part is the raster- the grid or the whole bright box that contains the grid. Also you said to set it up with no "test pattern" but show that grid. when you turn on the grid isnt the projector in 4:3 mode?


Thanks,

Jon Spackman

PS You rock, and I will be sending you money for the setup disc very soon as I want to take care of you.[/QUOTE]



Couple of points, The lenses are fixed focal length so how far the projector is back from the screen determins the screen size.

You setup the raster to take advantage of the max amount of tube face This determines the distance from the screen. You increase the brightness so the raster is very bright and can be seen on the screen. You then move it on a table etc and pull the projector back and forth and refocus until the raster covers the screen you want to use. You dont have to be too anal about this. Its better to have it over scanning slightly so you have some room for a small adjustment.

All these positioning adjustments are initiall done with a bright lit raster as it is a constant on each tube face if you have maximized it on all three tubes. I only use the green tube to do this as you havent set the tube toe in at this point.

The test pattern will always be within the raster shape. If you squash the raster down with the height control so you get a 2.35:1 pic height. The test pattern will always be within that area.

I suggest you firstly set the raster for 4:3 and do all the adjustments etc so it is perfect at 4:3 with the picture height equally above and below your 2.35:1 screen. The last step is to squash it down with the verticle size control to fit it on the screen.

2.35 is not a problem but you will only be using a smallish strip across the tube face which will centralize wear. This is not an issue as long as you only use the tube wear position for the picture.

Is your screen 16:9 or 2.35:1 ? You have a choice with a 2.35 screen. You can display the 16:9 pic within the 2.35 pic with bars on the side. Or have a 16:9 screen and have black bars top and bottom in a 2.35 movie.

IMHO the 16:9 screen is a better option as the wear is more even and across the whole tube face. Whereas on a 2.35 screen. the 16:9 image is smaller and is very intense and will wear the centre of the tube much faster. But opinions vary. Depends if the majority of veiwing is 2.35 or 16:9.

I have thought about building a 2.35:1 torus. That could be good as the tube wear is much lower.

No G2 adjustment on a 1292, its automatic on the neck board. G2 isnt gain !!

G2 sets the point on the tube light up charateristic where as it transitions between full off anf full on . The transfer charateristic is not linear. If the G2 is not set right we would be using a very non linear part of the turn on part of the tube. The G2 setting sets the on point (base beam current turn on) of the tube so the transistion between full black and full white is linear not squeded.

The black balance and white balance is adjusted by the gain and cutoff controls electronically. I didnt go into those since they cannot really be adjusted properly with instrumentation that no one will have to hand

The raster is the whole box down near black that the picture resides in. The test pattern position is irrelevant as it is purely an image within the raster. The only thing the internal pattern will do during initial setup is put the centre cross in the same position on every tube face so that you can set the tube toe in.

Where it is within the raster is different in every projector.

Thats why the raster position is critical. If that is wrong every subsequent step will be wrong.

Graham

Hi Graham--just watched your set up video. Great stuff. Unfortunately section 16 spelled bad luck for me. The little defect in my green tube. Delamination. Ouch. I understand you replace thse tubes for $1500 fitted. I'm in Sydney however. How much to supply replacemnt green tube? Can these be reconditioned?

I will call you about this Cliff.

GJ

Cliff,
I only really found my problem when we were doing the calibration for the DVD.
GJ then found me a tube replacement from the US and I fitted and calibrated the new one myself using the DVD We'd made.......sort of wierd............:-)
....not as good as GJ can do though................
My advice is to get GJ to get a tube for you and then get him to install and calibrate. You will end up with a really great sharp picture and 1080p!!
As far as I know
the tubes are not reburbishable (if that's a word...............)

Just got my DVD in the post, and let me tell you that I'm very impressed with it. It helped me understand a lot of the different concepts that are required to do a better setup. Even though you can take this DVD and setup other CRT's, I second the idea of making other DVD's that are specific to other models. I for one would like to see one of the DVD's for the Marquee line... :) Thanks Graham and Matthew for a job well done.

I agree.
While it is a fact that the principles for setting up different CRT:s are identical, it's just as true that the methods for doing it differ very much.

Got the DVD today. Precisely what I needed as a 1292 Newbie. Thanks a lot for this great DVD. It makes my home cinema life much easier.

Greetings from Switzerland,


HolyCow1292

Hey guys,

To make Graham's life easier, I put together something so that you can click and purchase the DVD directly from him... (I keep telling people that all this PM'ing of 'how to order', 'how do I pay', etc is a pain in arse... it's 2007 fer chrissake!) :)

See here: http://www.curtpalme.com/CRTforSale_3rdparty_products.shtm

Kal

Kal,

Great Idea!