The OFFICIAL 2006 Toshiba REGZA LCD HDTV Thread... [Text View] - Page 3

GTZ

11-13-06, 08:53 PM

Hi everyone,

I've been reading this forum for quite a while.... Now I've made up my mind for a Toshiba 42" LZ series HDTV.

I've been looking at plasmas, Sony's XBR2, Sharp AQUOS LC46D62U, but the "bandings" problems with the Sharp I was going to buy deceived me from rolling the dices. The high prices of the Sony was also a reason why I didn't bought it. I also looked at the 50XBR1 wich I know had problems with yellow bulb, and the price of an OB and a lamp was not in my futur plans. Not to mention the 1080p.

When I first saw the 42HL196 (not a typo), I really liked the PQ. So I said to myself, that it would be even beautifull with the LZ, plus I get the 1080p for the upcoming PS3 and Blueray discs. The settings allows a better control of the picture on the LZ, and it's what I like ...

I will tell you more when I'll get the set in a few weeks, cause the had to make a special order to get this set. They only had the HL in store, but I wanted the LZ.

you all are nice on this forum, and it's been a pleasure to read you all.

BTW, an idea, should someone start a thread for the LZ specific series and tweaking for the owners?

thank you,
René

René,

Congrats on your decision and purchase. I too had the Sharp AQUOS LC46D62U on my short list. It sounded promising for the price so I actually put some $ down on one back in September just to reserve one. Since then I have been educated about the banding problems from what I have read at another site and canceled my order. I looked at the 46" Mitsubishi 1080 LCD and the Tosh 47LX196. I liked the Tosh much better. The glass around the silver frame on the Sony turned me off. Then I went into a higher end local B&M and saw the 47LZ196. I think this might be the set for me. The place has 4 in stock so I won't have to wait, I feel your pain. I'd be interested to know if the 'Z' series has any isues with banding or ghosting that has been mentioned on the "X" series. Also how it tackles SD broadcasts.

baltazar_qc

11-13-06, 11:17 PM

René,

Congrats on your decision and purchase. I too had the Sharp AQUOS LC46D62U on my short list. It sounded promising for the price so I actually put some $ down on one back in September just to reserve one. Since then I have been educated about the banding problems from what I have read at another site and canceled my order. I looked at the 46" Mitsubishi 1080 LCD and the Tosh 47LX196. I liked the Tosh much better. The glass around the silver frame on the Sony turned me off. Then I went into a higher end local B&M and saw the 47LZ196. I think this might be the set for me. The place has 4 in stock so I won't have to wait, I feel your pain. I'd be interested to know if the 'Z' series has any isues with banding or ghosting that has been mentioned on the "X" series. Also how it tackles SD broadcasts.

Hi Gtz,
and thank you for sharing my pain :)

I will come back on this with you as soon as I'll get my set. I'm hoping there will be no banding or ghosting as I've not read a lot on this on this forum or this thread. I wishfully think that, if there's not much talks about those models (the LZ or even all the Toshiba HL,LX,LZ models) this is some kind of a proof that there's not much bad to talk about! (I've seen what it may look like by reading all the Sharp AQUOS thread! :eek: ) The majority of people who share in this forum seems to adress issues and find solutions to their problems.

What I kind of find funny in my quest for an HDTV, is that ALL SETS seem to have their problems... there is no PERFECT one as I know of... ! I'll cross my fingers for the LZ to be the one for me....

happy hunting bro!
René

ho and btw, thank you for taking the time to reply to me... I was starting to feel lonely :P Maybe my english is not good enough... anyway. bye

belgiangenius

11-14-06, 09:51 AM

You have a point. I've heard of many people returning SHARP LCDs....very few returning Toshiba.

SnellKrell

11-14-06, 10:23 AM

Please consider that many more Sharp LCDs are sold than Toshibas!

baltazar_qc

11-14-06, 10:50 AM

Please consider that many more Sharp LCDs are sold than Toshibas!

You may be right... but just to make it official, do you have numbers? :p

thank you Gary

SnellKrell

11-14-06, 11:45 AM

The best I can do quickly is to quote an article from last month's Business Week.

2006 Sales of LCD TVs in the U.S. on a Unit Basis:

#1 - Phillips/LG
#2 - Samsung
#3 - Sharp - Tied With Sony

That's as far as the article went.

Toshiba not even mentioned!

baltazar_qc

11-14-06, 12:19 PM

The best I can do quickly is to quote an article from last month's Business Week.

2006 Sales of LCD TVs in the U.S. on a Unit Basis:

#1 - Phillips
#2 - Samsung
#3 - Sharp - Tied With Sony

That's as far as the article went.

Toshiba not even mentioned!

Wow... Phillips was not even included in my search
Samsung, don't appeal to me with the overscan...
Sharp and Sony, ok, but you know that Sharp has the banding and Sony the overprice.

It's strange because I'd expected Panasonic to be on the top of that list... I mean here in Canada they are everywhere.

top sellings on Amazon
amazon[dot]com/b?ie=UTF8&node=239408011 (look on the right)

I tried to find the selling top for here in Canada on google, but did not find it.

Anyway, Thank you for the info Gary!

SnellKrell

11-14-06, 12:23 PM

I edited my posting to properly include LG as being partnered with Phillips.

Panasonic is the largest seller of plasma panels, not in the running when it
comes to LCDs.

E55 KEV

11-14-06, 12:27 PM

It's strange because I'd expected Panasonic to be on the top of that list... I mean here in Canada they are everywhere.

I doubt Panasonic LCD's are everywhere. You are thinking of Plasmas. Panasonic does not sell a lot of LCD flat panels because the largest they make is a 32" panel. They have no 37/40/42/45/46/47/50 or 52 LCD panels.

Top selling does not equate to picture or build quality IMO.

baltazar_qc

11-14-06, 12:32 PM

I edited my posting to properly include LG as being partnered with Phillips.

Panasonic is the largest seller of plasma panels, not in the running when it
comes to LCDs.

I doubt Panasonic LCD's are everywhere. You are thinking of Plasmas. Panasonic does not sell a lot of LCD flat panels because the largest they make is a 32" panel. They have no 37/40/42/45/46/47/50 or 52 LCD panels.

Top selling does not equate to picture or build quality IMO.

That's it, you are sooooo right...
I was distracted.
Thank for correcting me! ;)

Yeah I also think that best selling may not be related to quality. Not all people who buy HDTV come to this forum to make their choices more justified... And also, there is not only one thread like: THE BEST HDTV OWNERS THREAD :D ...

Thank you,
René

rickbr

11-14-06, 04:29 PM

You have a point. I've heard of many people returning SHARP LCDs....very few returning Toshiba.

I actually had to return a 42HL196 last Thursday, could not get the video to ever work, so my replacement one will be coming in this Friday 11/17. Hopefully this set was just one that got through, and the new one will work perfectly...

capecoralbill

11-15-06, 07:39 AM

Reply to VIM original post 11-8-06
I've had my 42hl196 for about a week. It's great, first I took home a samsung hls4666w dlp what a piece of crap, of course it was about one third cheaper, it was so bright the whole house lit up, and the blacks were so black, that there was no detail, for instance you could not see creases in pants, just the black outline of the shape. Anyway I want to reply about settingup 2 ANTENNAS IN THE TV GUIDE ON SCREEN. Yes it can be done, During the InSTALLATION of TVGOS, or After initial setup, Press the GUIDE key on the remote, then use the RIGHT arrow key to highlight Setup on the Menu Bar, then use the DOWN arrow key to highlight "Change system settings." Follow the on-screen prompts to enter new information.
Just press enter next to each choice, before you enter DONE when the screen asks you if you want ant 1 or ant 2. It worked for me, although all of the ANT 2 channels did not get picked up by TVGOS, some did, even some subchannels (ie 26-1 ) got listed right in numerical order blended into the same TVGOS screen. It's a nice feature because you can tune directly from the TVGOS screen to the channel you highlight and it picks out the correct antenna for it, it works seamlessly. TVGOS is the main reason I bought this set. I hope I have helped.

Zoologico

11-15-06, 11:23 AM

I have the 32HLV16 hooked up to a DTV HR10-250. 1st issue- I cannot get the HDMI cable to work at all. I have changes the output on the HR10 to all the setttins 480i -1080i and I still cant get any picture. 2nd issue- I have it hooked up via componant cables. Even through the componant cables if I change the HR10 out put from 480i I loose the picture. Whats up? I have read the manual and I read all the post in this section until page 11 and then I gave up. Any help would be appriciated. Thanks.
I haven't tested it thoroughly, but I couldn't get my laptop's DVI-out to work with a DVI to HDMI cable.

Laptop doesn't even show another display is connected.
I will try again this weekend with a DVI out video card from an HTPC I am building.

Gouie

11-15-06, 11:33 AM

agrennan

11-16-06, 10:06 AM

I know that crosby1 has had this set calibrated by an ISF tech. I was wondering if anyone else has paid to have this done, as I am thinking about it, and wondering on the roi.

If you had ISF calibration done, did you first calibrate yourself with Avia or DVE? And if so how much difference?

How much do the black levels (really dark detail) improve.

Anything else of note really improve?

I have this set and am very satisfied with it after an Avia calibration, but am always looking for the ablsolute best of the best (within reason). ;)

Tech no

11-16-06, 12:32 PM

I am currently on hold with Toshiba to see what they know about the banding issue/ ghost bar issue with the 42lx196's.

I was on hold for a very short time which was impressive. I spoke with two different people one being a supervisor and both told me they have not heard of this problem and I am the first one to call about it. I called them a couple of weeks ago and a rep told me that they are just started getting calls about it.

I give up I am defeated. Good bye Toshiba.

For those of you stuck with a Toshiba with ghost bars I suggest you call Toshiba and call Toshiba and if they tell you they have not heard of it tell them otherwise. I talked to Mike, a supervisor. Have them create a file about your report.

This web site will post any problems being reported about the Toshiba TVs:

www.tacp.com
go to customer support , then updates and notices.

Does anyone have any suggestions on another brand of 42 inch lcd 1080p?

Zoologico

11-16-06, 01:39 PM

I'd be interested in hearing your results. Particularly in regards to the resolution you're able to achieve. Toshiba is not supporting anything higher that 1024x768, however, many have been able to push a higher res. At this point I don't know if they are choosing not to support anything higher due to potential display damage or that they simply don't want to support PC applications.
I think you were talking to me so I will reply.

I connected a new laptop from work using a DVI to HDMI cable and it looked brilliant.
It's a Dell D820 with a convenient max res of 1920X1080.
:)

Looked nice and it display the entire image using HDMI input 2. I did have to adjust teh video signal from the laptop becuase it seems to miss some of the edges, but it was only about 20 pixels on each side.

The only thing is that I need to have the set professionally calibrated for the best image because I just don't know how.

I did get an AVIA DVD which is suppose to help but I need to play it in every input to calibrate it properly.

So using HDMI inputs I can confirm that resolutions of 1920x1080 are supported from a PC. I didn't doubt that, but I wanted to confirm it.

The VGA input is the one limited to 1024x768 which is so silly it's almost like they are playing a joke on us, yet I am not laughing.

slicecom

11-16-06, 01:51 PM

The VGA input is the one limited to 1024x768 which is so silly it's almost like they are playing a joke on us, yet I am not laughing.

Does anyone have an Xbox 360 hooked up to an HL66 via VGA? Does this limitation mean it won't display properly? I wish M$ would just release a friggin' HDMI cable!

baltazar_qc

11-16-06, 01:58 PM

Does anyone have an Xbox 360 hooked up to an HL66 via VGA? Does this limitation mean it won't display properly? I wish M$ would just release a friggin' HDMI cable!

hi...

I saw on the monoprice.com site, that there's VGA/DVI <-> COMPONENT cable... wouldn't that work?

just my .2¢

Gouie

11-16-06, 02:03 PM

Zoologico, thanks for the input. Nice to know max resolution can be obtained. It would be nice if VGA would support higher but on higher end video cards VGA is becoming a thing of the past.

Zoologico

11-16-06, 07:28 PM

Zoologico, thanks for the input. Nice to know max resolution can be obtained. It would be nice if VGA would support higher but on higher end video cards VGA is becoming a thing of the past.

Glad I could help.
So does anyone know where I can find a local pro to come and tune the set?
Also, if I change the set's location within a room or move it to another house, will I have to get the settings calibrated all over again?

Gouie

11-17-06, 05:57 PM

Zoologico

11-17-06, 07:07 PM

Now here's a tough question for you all. Does anyone have the dimensions of the box for the 42HL196? Why? Here's the problem. I've had the set on order now for 2 weeks. Just received the call that it's in but they're next delivery spot isn't until Tuesday. I'd be there in a flash to pick it up but my truck's in the shop until, you guessed it, Tuesday. My other vehicle is a 35 year old VDub with surprisingly quite a bit of cargo room but I want to be sure I could get it in the door!

Second question. Any gotcha's to be careful of when transporting? Obviously it should be transported write side up ... anything else to watch?

Here you go:

17.5x44x33 inches for the box

I picked it up in my BMW 528i and I had to take it out of the box and secure right side up in the back seat. First impression is that there is no way to fit it in your VDub with the box, but you'd know better than I would.

I had to fold the box up and put it in the trunk.

Good luck.

bulake

11-18-06, 01:03 PM

Hey guys, I am from Canada and I have recently purchased the 32HL86 and after exchange it for a 32HL66. One thing that I found interesting is that even they both have the REGZA brand on them, only the 32HL66 is advertised as using Pixel Pure. Here are some other differences I manged to find from a functionality point of view:

32HL86 VS 32HL66

- No Dynamic Contrast on 32HL86
- Max VGA resolution XSVGA 1280 x 1024 vs 1024 x 768 on the 32HL66
- Backlight control (black uniformity) present only on the 32HL86
- Input Labels (on the 32hl86 you can type in the text vs choosing pre-formated labels)

Overall, 32HL66 has better image, crisper and the colors look much better. There is less color bleding when using SDTV. I loved the fact that the 32HL86 was able to display 1280 x 1024 but I remeber reading somewhere that is 1280 x 1024 compressed so it might not be that much better than 1024 x 768.

slicecom

11-18-06, 03:30 PM

UPENN997

11-18-06, 09:35 PM

Hi guys,

Wow, you guys are nuts about research just like me in regard to lcd and electronic buys. Anyway, I have a question about the issue with the LX series not having a direct 1080P input (i know that the LZ does).

I have read that it doesn't have a direct 1080p input, therefore, it can't display 1080p. I don't see how that is possible, doesn't an HDMI cable make 1080p viewing possible from a 1080p source (such as a playstation 3?)

Additionally, I haven't recieved my LCD yet, can anyone post pictures of their LCD?

Thanks guys

-DMW

JimmyDaves

11-18-06, 10:07 PM

UPENN997

11-18-06, 11:56 PM

I was very close to buying the Toshiba HL196 since an online retailer has this at a great price at the moment. However, the other thread says that the HL196 does not have a 1080P input and is not truly a 1080P set. Can anyone clear up this mystery for me?

Actually, I have been doing research on this as well. the LZ Pro Cinema series is able to accept 1080p input. From what I understand this is how it works....

Toshiba's Regza LCD's that boast that they are 1080p ARE actually 1080p---but that is simply b/c LCD's are inherently PROGRESSIVE in regards to scanning. They very rarely display INTERLACED pixels the way that CRT's or other monitors do. This of course is odd (still trying to understand this).

The information that comes into an LCD, PLASMA or a DLP is transferred as interlaced.... and it is then converted (ON ALL OF THEM) to Progressive. So, how would an 1080p input change this?

My assumption is that the 1080p HDMI inputs that the LZ pro cinema series LCD has bypasses the upscaler (interscaler, whatever the hell it is that changes the 1080i into 1080p) and simply displays the data.

Some how the image is converted to 1080p... I don't get how this is done at all. I don't see how a 1080i signal can be converted to 1080p... if someone can figure that out WE all would like to know.

UPENN997

11-19-06, 12:04 AM

Actually, I just thought of this... the difference between a 1080i and 1080p is the fact that I deals with interlaced pixels to create and refresh images. P- Progressive does not, it's a single shot--- meaning that the pixels ALL display at one time.

My guess is this.... The Regza's can be 1080p simply by the fact that the TV has a converter that somehow deals with the interlaced images and converts them to progressive one (meaning instead of the time and processing power it takes to 'paint' the images with INTERLACED sources... it has a converter or something that handles this process and is able to do the one shot- progressive scanning....essentially making a 1080p possible.

The difference between the two is that the interlaced source doesn't keep up too well with fast moving images and it causes flicker (I don't know this, I haven't seen it in person... but that is what all of the webpages are saying about interlaced). Progressive is perfect- it does all of the pixels at one time instead of filling in ODD number pixels and then even numbered pixels (in the milliseconds it takes to do it). The only way that TOSHIBA could sell this tv as P is that the TV has a converter or something that changes I into P somehow.

So honestly, I don't think I am worried about not having an 1080P hdmi connection. The assumption is that the tv does show progressive, however, you must rely on the converter or whatever it has in it that changes it over to P... opposed to having a direct connection.

baltazar_qc

11-19-06, 09:50 AM

I was very close to buying the Toshiba HL196 since an online retailer has this at a great price at the moment. However, the other thread says that the HL196 does not have a 1080P input and is not truly a 1080P set. Can anyone clear up this mystery for me?

Yeah, only the LZ serie is having a 1080p series. But they all up-convert the sources to an 1080p output. I guess that makes the HL and LX not "true" 1080p sets.

hope it helps you.

baltazar_qc

11-19-06, 10:08 AM

Some how the image is converted to 1080p... I don't get how this is done at all. I don't see how a 1080i signal can be converted to 1080p... if someone can figure that out WE all would like to know.

this process is called "de-interlaced" I think it takes the 1080i 60 and make it 1080p 30. The difference might be that if you have (lets say PS3 signal) 1080p 60, you will have direct output of the original signal "pixel for pixel". That is in part why I choose the LZ over the others. Also, there's more setting options on the LZ, as for the color control ColorMaster: You can individually adjust the hue, saturation, and color brightness for each of six different colors to set the picture just the way you like it.... and much more!

Also if you don't have an A/V reveiver for your sound system, this set have a really nice sound. It produces a "virtual surround", and has plenty of sound features like:

StableSound: When the signal source is changed, StableSound limits the highest volume level to prevent extreme changes in volume.

SRS WOW: WOW is a special combination of SRS Labs audio technologies that creates a surround sound experience with deep, rich bass from stereo sound sources, making the TV audio sound fuller, richer, and wider. WOW consists of these three features:

* SRS 3D: turns on/off the surround sound effect
* FOCUS: turns on/off the vocal emphasis effect
* TruBass: selects the desired bass expansion level (High, Low, or Off)

I have heard the HL in store, and I can imagine that the LZ would be terrific!

bye

baltazar_qc

11-19-06, 10:11 AM

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Deinterlacing

good readings ;)

GTZ

11-19-06, 10:12 AM

Tech no

11-19-06, 11:44 AM

Ok I lied I can't give up on Toshiba. After spending weeks looking at other brands all I can do is come back to the Toshibas. So I continue my quest to solve the ghost bar issue even though I said I was done. After comparing the specs of the LX and the LZ I am wondering if I might have better luck with the LZ. I stayed away from the LZ because I have not seen it in stores here and the shiny black kinda worries me due to the high light load in my room, the whole purpose of me going LCD otherwise I would go plasma for a cheaper alternative. Ok back to my question does anyone have the ghost bar issue with the LZ? How does the shiny black affect your TV watching in a high light load room? I am still weary because I can not get answers on the ghost bar issue on the LX so I do not know if the LZ is made differently enough that it would not have it on the LZ. As you can tell I am very low tech so any hints on what the LZ would have different than the Lx to affect ghost bars would be helpful.

baltazar_qc

11-19-06, 11:49 AM

As of yesterday my 2 month search for a 1080p LCD is over, I purchased the 47LZ196. I was able to negotiate a great $ from a local highend B&M. I got it up and running but didn't have time to play with/tweak it too much. I do have the DE calibration disc that I plan on using. My inputs are OTA antenna and a Pioneer HD cable box. The local SD stations display great, especially the HD ones. HD cable if fantastic. I'm one :D camper. Looking forward to watching some football today!

Hey GTZ, where are you from? Is B&M Breault & Martineau? I'm from near Montreal, I and wish I could have received my set for today's footbal!!! You are soooo lucky! If you are from Quebec, please tell me wich B&M you bought it from! Because mine is till on special order from B&M of St-Bruno, Qc.

I wish that the Alouettes win this game. I assisted the last game against the Argos in Montreal, and that was a hell of a match, I think one of the best for the Alouettes...

lucky you! ;)

btw, I know about the Avia DVD, but what is the DE calibration disk you are refering to? thnx

Zoologico

11-19-06, 11:58 AM

Hey GTZ, where are you from? Is B&M Breault & Martineau? I'm from near Montreal, I and wish I could have received my set for today's footbal!!! You are soooo lucky! If you are from Quebec, please tell me wich B&M you bought it from! Because mine is till on special order from B&M of St-Bruno, Qc.

I wish that the Alouettes win this game. I assisted the last game against the Argos in Montreal, and that was a hell of a match, I think one of the best for the Alouettes...

lucky you! ;)

btw, I know about the Avia DVD, but what is the DE calibration disk you are refering to? thnx

I think by B&M, he or she meant brick and mortar (not a Web store).
I could be wrong though.

aquosdude

11-19-06, 01:45 PM

So both of these don't support dot-dot 1366x768?

Hey guys, I am from Canada and I have recently purchased the 32HL86 and after exchange it for a 32HL66. One thing that I found interesting is that even they both have the REGZA brand on them, only the 32HL66 is advertised as using Pixel Pure. Here are some other differences I manged to find from a functionality point of view:

32HL86 VS 32HL66

- No Dynamic Contrast on 32HL86
- Max VGA resolution XSVGA 1280 x 1024 vs 1024 x 768 on the 32HL66
- Backlight control (black uniformity) present only on the 32HL86
- Input Labels (on the 32hl86 you can type in the text vs choosing pre-formated labels)

Overall, 32HL66 has better image, crisper and the colors look much better. There is less color bleding when using SDTV. I loved the fact that the 32HL86 was able to display 1280 x 1024 but I remeber reading somewhere that is 1280 x 1024 compressed so it might not be that much better than 1024 x 768.

SDSinc

11-19-06, 01:50 PM

Zoologico

11-19-06, 02:35 PM

I have the 32HLV16 hooked up to a HR10-250. I cannot get the HDMI cable to work. I only get audio, no picture. Also when I change the output on my DVR to anything other than 480i I loose picture. What am I missing? PLEASE HELP. Thanks

What kind of video output are you sending to the TV?
1080p will not work.
You must send 1080i and let the TV deinterlace to 1080p.

Can you change the type of output of that device?

I just realized that the 32XXXXX may have different input requirements than the 42XXXXX and above. You should still check the video input compatibility and make sure your device is within those parameters.

SDSinc

11-19-06, 04:26 PM

Zoologico

11-19-06, 05:06 PM

I am sending out 480i. I can change it (on my DVR) but when I do I loose picture. How do I find the input requierments for the 32hlv16? I looked in the manual but I might have overlooked it. P.S.- I am currently hooked up via comp. cables.

Not sure.
I checked the Toshiba site and it doesn't state it. Considering that the native resolution is 1366x768, I'd say the highest it could go is 720p.

I honestly don't know. You might want to try another input if you have some other cables handy to check if there is a problem with the input or elsewhere.

Good luck.

UPENN997

11-19-06, 07:02 PM

hey guys, this is what I found about 1080p. The difference should be basically non existent....

following examples refer to content that is encoded in progressive-scan form during recording or transmission—what would be considered "native" progressive signals. However, where 24 fps film-based material is concerned, a 1080i encoded/transmitted stream can become a true "1080p" signal during playback by deinterlacing to re-combine the split field pairs into progressive film-scanned frames. Regarding 24 fps film-source material presented in conventional 1080i60 form, the deinterlacing process that achieves this goal is usually referred to as "3:2 pulldown reversal". The importance of this is that, where film-based content is concerned, all 1080-interlaced signals are potentially 1080p signals given the proper deinterlacing. As long as no additional image-degradation steps were applied during signal mastering (such as excessive vertical-pass filtering), the image from a properly deinterlaced film-source 1080i signal and a native-encoded 1080p signal will look exactly the same. As more and more processors and displays come to market able to apply 3:2 pulldown reversal to film-based 1080i60 signals, the amount of available "1080p" content for viewing expands (encompassing film-based 1080i60 feeds from broadcast HD, cable, and satellite).

So for those of you who bought the LX like me... and are a bit bummed that you should have box the LZ--- chill out. ALL PS3 games and moves will be @ 1080i and p options--- and the TV we bought is built to handle that and display it @ P standards with little to no degradation.

GTZ

11-19-06, 09:57 PM

Hey GTZ, where are you from? Is B&M Breault & Martineau? I'm from near Montreal, I and wish I could have received my set for today's footbal!!! You are soooo lucky! If you are from Quebec, please tell me wich B&M you bought it from! Because mine is till on special order from B&M of St-Bruno, Qc.

I wish that the Alouettes win this game. I assisted the last game against the Argos in Montreal, and that was a hell of a match, I think one of the best for the Alouettes...

lucky you! ;)

btw, I know about the Avia DVD, but what is the DE calibration disk you are refering to? thnx

baltazar_qc,

I meant to say DVE, Digital Video Essentials. I just edited my post. And yes Zoologico is right, B&M means brick and mortar, not Breault & Martineau. Sorry for the confusion. BTW, just PM'd ya.

ViperJohn

11-20-06, 12:33 AM

I am sending out 480i. I can change it (on my DVR) but when I do I loose picture. How do I find the input requierments for the 32hlv16? I looked in the manual but I might have overlooked it. P.S.- I am currently hooked up via comp. cables.

The 32HL66 / 32HLV66 will go to 1080i on either the HDMI or Component inputs. I've fed my 32HL66 at 1080i on both the HDMI and Comp inputs from my H20-100 DTV Sat receiver.

Viper

ViperJohn

11-20-06, 12:37 AM

I have the 32HLV16 hooked up to a HR10-250. I cannot get the HDMI cable to work. I only get audio, no picture. Also when I change the output on my DVR to anything other than 480i I loose picture. What am I missing? PLEASE HELP. Thanks

Have you checked the DTV forums about your receiver??? At least one of the DTV recorders has some issues at higher resolutions and with it's HDMI.

Viper

Zoologico

11-20-06, 09:00 AM

The 32HL66 / 32HLV66 will go to 1080i on either the HDMI or Component inputs. I've fed my 32HL66 at 1080i on both the HDMI and Comp inputs from my H20-100 DTV Sat receiver.

Viper

GReat follow up, hope this helps SDSinc to troubleshoot.

Gouie

11-20-06, 12:48 PM

Little off topic but anyone trying to fit the 42hl196 into a 35 year old beetle ... don't. I was positive it would fit. So sure that I bet the wife it would. Well ... I lost ... my payment, posting that my wife was right and I should never doubt her again!

not2bright

11-20-06, 02:35 PM

I purchased the 37HL66 a week ago. After setting it up via Avia disc from a Panny S52 via HDMI, it looks great.

I would like to compare settings if anyone has this display.

I am feeding the 37HL66 with HD video from Charter cable via Moto 5100 using the component video inputs. It seems that selecting the 1080i output from the cable HD box gives a much sharper picture than when the cable box is set to 720p. Is this typical?

BTW, in the box the 37HL66 really doesn't fit in the backseat of a 04'-07' model Acura TL. I got it in there but the results to the car aren't pretty. I'm glad it's a nearly ending lease vehicle...

Zoologico

11-20-06, 03:20 PM

slicecom

11-20-06, 03:42 PM

I purchased the 37HL66 a week ago. After setting it up via Avia disc from a Panny S52 via HDMI, it looks great.

I would like to compare settings if anyone has this display.

Why don't you start by posting up your settings? I'll post up my settings later as I'm at work right now.

dildano

11-20-06, 03:54 PM

So using HDMI inputs I can confirm that resolutions of 1920x1080 are supported from a PC. I didn't doubt that, but I wanted to confirm it.

I've been all over these forums, and so far I'm only more confused on this issue. I understand that no matter which model you get, you'll be limited to 1024x768 on the VGA port. But are you able to get full resolution by using the DVI or HDMI ports? And equally important, how does the picture look?

I ask because I hooked up my Dell Inspiron 6000 with an ATI X300 video card in it to my new 32HLV66 to compare the s-video and VGA inputs. Both appear to be limiting me to 1024x768 (even changing my laptop resolution!), and the s-video picture looked extremely fuzzy while the VGA picture looked awesome (like a regular computer monitor). So IF my laptop had a DVI port on it, would I be able to get the full resolution (widescreen) without any sort of stretching or anything?

This is a deal-breaker for me before I'll buy a 47LX196 or 47LZ196. My plan is to hook up my computer with a DVI output, and watch recorded HD content. So is it possible? Can I really get the full 1920x1080 AND get a great picture?

not2bright

11-20-06, 05:04 PM

Why don't you start by posting up your settings? I'll post up my settings later as I'm at work right now.

I am confused as to where to start with the Back Light settings as Avia doesn't seem to account for this. I set the BL to 75 and did my adjustments and got the following (all done with temp set to "cool"):

Contrast: 75
Back Lgt: 75
Brightns: 64
Color : 45
Tint : +15
Sharpn : 60

That said I think the image looks best with:

(Daylight bright room)

Contrast: 85
Back Lgt: 64
Brightns: 64
Color : 50
Tint : +5
Sharpn : 55

(Dark room)

Contrast: 85
Back Lgt: 61
Brightns: 61
Color : 50
Tint : +5
Sharpn : 55

Any ideas on the "optimal" back light setting for calibration? Also I assume that the dynamic contract should be turned off during calibration.

slicecom

11-20-06, 05:23 PM

I am confused as to where to start with the Back Light settings as Avia doesn't seem to account for this. I set the BL to 75 and did my adjustments and got the following (all done with temp set to "cool"):

Contrast: 75
Back Lgt: 75
Brightns: 64
Color : 45
Tint : +15
Sharpn : 60

That said I think the image looks best with:

(Daylight bright room)

Contrast: 85
Back Lgt: 64
Brightns: 64
Color : 50
Tint : +5
Sharpn : 55

(Dark room)

Contrast: 85
Back Lgt: 61
Brightns: 61
Color : 50
Tint : +5
Sharpn : 55

Any ideas on the "optimal" back light setting for calibration? Also I assume that the dynamic contract should be turned off during calibration.

I've been struggling with the back light setting too. Since I'm quite anal about black level, i've actually set it at 0. I find that the following setting gives me the darkest blacks possible without losing detail in the blacks. I'm by no means an expert, and don't have any calibration software, this is done purely through personal preference. Also, I have a 37HL86 which is the same as a 37HL66 PQ wise except it lacks "Dynamic Contrast". So if you have that turned on, you would have to adjust it accordingly to compensate. Also, I watch my TV in my room which is almost always dark, so this setup is tailored to that environment.

Back Light: 0
Contrast: 100
Brightness: 44
Tint: +2
Sharpness 0
Black Stretch: off
Colour Temperature: cool

UPENN997

11-20-06, 07:32 PM

I've been all over these forums, and so far I'm only more confused on this issue. I understand that no matter which model you get, you'll be limited to 1024x768 on the VGA port. But are you able to get full resolution by using the DVI or HDMI ports? And equally important, how does the picture look?

I ask because I hooked up my Dell Inspiron 6000 with an ATI X300 video card in it to my new 32HLV66 to compare the s-video and VGA inputs. Both appear to be limiting me to 1024x768 (even changing my laptop resolution!), and the s-video picture looked extremely fuzzy while the VGA picture looked awesome (like a regular computer monitor). So IF my laptop had a DVI port on it, would I be able to get the full resolution (widescreen) without any sort of stretching or anything?

This is a deal-breaker for me before I'll buy a 47LX196 or 47LZ196. My plan is to hook up my computer with a DVI output, and watch recorded HD content. So is it possible? Can I really get the full 1920x1080 AND get a great picture?

You have to hook ur comp up via the DVI-HDMI connections. From what I have heard it works really well. It does piss me off that the VGA only goes up to 1024... whose idea was that?

SDSinc

11-20-06, 08:07 PM

GReat follow up, hope this helps SDSinc to troubleshoot.

I appriciate everyones help. I think I have a defective box. Ill keep trying. Thanks again.

not2bright

11-20-06, 08:50 PM

If I set my back light low I don't feel that the whites are bright enough. If you like black level you would like the dynamic contrast. When I turn this on it makes it look more like the contrast ratio of a plasma.

I have to use the "cool" the others are too warm.

BTW, what is black stretch on the 86? Doesn't it work like the dynamic contrast?

I've been struggling with the back light setting too. Since I'm quite anal about black level, i've actually set it at 0. I find that the following setting gives me the darkest blacks possible without losing detail in the blacks. I'm by no means an expert, and don't have any calibration software, this is done purely through personal preference. Also, I have a 37HL86 which is the same as a 37HL66 PQ wise except it lacks "Dynamic Contrast". So if you have that turned on, you would have to adjust it accordingly to compensate. Also, I watch my TV in my room which is almost always dark, so this setup is tailored to that environment.

Back Light: 0
Contrast: 100
Brightness: 44
Tint: +2
Sharpness 0
Black Stretch: off
Colour Temperature: cool

dildano

11-20-06, 09:23 PM

You have to hook ur comp up via the DVI-HDMI connections. From what I have heard it works really well. It does piss me off that the VGA only goes up to 1024... whose idea was that?

Thanks for the confirmation! Does anyone else find it weird that you can get full resolution via the DVI/HDMI inputs, but not the VGA? Oh well. Now I gotta find a sweet deal on a 47LX196...

By the way, has anyone ever seen a firmware update for a Toshiba LCD? I'm just wondering if one will ever be released...

gosawx

11-20-06, 10:00 PM

slicecom

11-20-06, 11:24 PM

If I set my back light low I don't feel that the whites are bright enough. If you like black level you would like the dynamic contrast. When I turn this on it makes it look more like the contrast ratio of a plasma.

I have to use the "cool" the others are too warm.

BTW, what is black stretch on the 86? Doesn't it work like the dynamic contrast?

Sorry, I forgot to mention that i also went into the service menu and increased the contrast ratio higher than 100%. I set the contrast ratio to the "THX" contrast test that comes on the star wars dvd's. The tv is capable of displaying higher than 100% contrast without losing detail in the whites. Like I said though, i watch the tv in my room usually with no or one small light on, so it doesn't have to be very bright to look great.

I didn't realize the 66 didn't have black stretch. I think it does pretty much the same thing as dynamic contrast but it doesnt improve the colour saturation like dynamic contrast does. It does make the blacks darker in comparassion to the lights, but a black screen for instance would look exactly the same whether black stretch is on or off. With my settings, i just lose the detail in the blacks if i turn black stretch off.

Zoologico

11-21-06, 02:19 PM

Are you saying that you ran 1920x1080 on your PC, through a DVI-to-HDMI cable, into your TV at 1920x1080?

Yes.

And is the picture quality the same as connecting directly to the VGA port?

I'd say the the quality is not the same and the HDMI was better in my eyes for a few reasons:

1) Colors seemed richer under the idential picture settings.
2) I was getting 1920x1080 resolution and not 1024x768 stretched to 16:9 ratio.
3) Overall the picture seemed darker in VGA than in the HDMI connection.

In theory it shoud also prove to be better. Your PC generates a digital signal which has to be made into analog before it goes out through your VGA port.

DVI preserves the digital signal until it gets into your set. It just means that it is a cleaner way to transfer the data. There is bound to be some degradation when going from digital to analog.

I ask because I noticed a huge difference in the picture quality between the s-video and VGA ports.

Agreed, but in my own comparison since I do not know what you were sending via S-Sideo and the VGA. I was sending 480i signal from my PS2 to the set via S-Video and it looked poor. To be fair, the PS2 video putput was optimized to look good on a CRT with 640x480 resolution.

I hooked up my PC via the VGA port and I was getting 1024x768 (4:3 aspect ratio) which the TV allowed me to stretch to the 16:9 ratio without any additional pixels. That looked better than the S-Video by leaps and bounds, but each source was different so it isn't a very good comparison. This is not optimal because if I launch a 16:9 movie, it looks stretched horizontally, so what I had to do was apply a 4:3 stretching during playback to get the top and bottom stretch and then let the TV do its 16:9 stretching. That would fill the whole screen witht he right aspect ratio. IN the end I stretch the image twice, once with hardware and once with software. This is not ideal.

The main difference between the VGA connection to my PC and the DVI-->HDMI connection to my PC is that the VGA seemd to come in significantly darker so I had to bump up my backlight and brightness settings to achieve a comparable image. However, this made darks get "fuzzy" which I attribute to the digital to analog conversion which likely introduced some noise during the process. Setting brightness and backlight (brightness for sure, not sure about backlight) higher enhances everything in the image, the good and the bad.

Both limited me to 1024x768, but at least the VGA port made the picture look great (like a regular PC monitor).

That seems about right. Comparing apples to apples (same video sources over the different connections), I think the worst to best connections are:

Coaxial
Composite
S-Video

VGA
Component/ColorStream
HDMI/DVI

I left a space between S-Video and VGA because the jump in quality isn't exactly linear in my opinion.

I am not a video or signal guy, but this is what I've been able to pick up over a few years of working in machine vision. Any corrections from others would be appreciated.

So is it possible? Can I really get the full 1920x1080 AND get a great picture?

Yes from what I have seen.

dildano

11-21-06, 03:26 PM

Zoologico, thanks for the thorough answer! I keep forgetting that VGA is analog, although it still looks pretty good. Even with the 1024x768 VGA limitation, I'm surprised so many people complain if you can simply hook up a DVI or DVI-->HDMI cable instead and get full resolution. Granted, older PCs (like my laptop) don't have DVI outputs, but that's just another reason to upgrade! More $$$...

Thanks!

So does anyone out there have one of the newer video cards with a native HDMI output? I'm curious to see if it's worth it to get one rather than converting DVI to HDMI...

Suma

11-21-06, 10:05 PM

Does the 32hl66 just have 1 RF port or does it have 2 seperate ports for antenna another line?

SnellKrell

11-21-06, 10:44 PM

I have the 26hl66, and the Installation Manual for the 26 also applies to the 32hl66.

It has only one RF Input which can be programmed for either Over-the-Air or Cable.

Suma

11-22-06, 12:28 AM

Does it have a seperate channel list between modes?

Suma

11-22-06, 04:29 PM

Sigh....it would be a lot easier if Toshiba posted the manuals online like most other companies.

slicecom

11-22-06, 04:38 PM

Sigh....it would be a lot easier if Toshiba posted the manuals online like most other companies.

It's on the right hand side under "What's Included". Merry Christmas! (http://www.crutchfield.com/S-u9cTFymqu2y/cgi-bin/ProdView.asp?g=146350&tab=detailed_info&i=05232HL66#Tab) ;)

1 browntrout

11-22-06, 04:48 PM

Thanks for the confirmation! Does anyone else find it weird that you can get full resolution via the DVI/HDMI inputs, but not the VGA? Oh well. Now I gotta find a sweet deal on a 47LX196...

By the way, has anyone ever seen a firmware update for a Toshiba LCD? I'm just wondering if one will ever be released...

The new 42 and 47 196's have a built in SD smartcard reader slot for updating the Toshiba software/firmware.

I know for a fact that Toshiba has had upgrades for their HL95 series in the 32 and 37 series for cable cards. We've seen January builds with verision 1.2.8, which was really wonky with Cablecards. Symptoms including dropping channels, losing sound on all digital channels, and the Fox Channel 11 syndrome, where the TV completely strips all it's channels and reboots from scratch with channel search. Verison 1.3.1 cleared up all of that, and the most current version is 1.3.3 which we had installed in the middle of November.

Suma

11-22-06, 06:57 PM

It's on the right hand side under "What's Included". Merry Christmas! (http://www.crutchfield.com/S-u9cTFymqu2y/cgi-bin/ProdView.asp?g=146350&tab=detailed_info&i=05232HL66#Tab) ;)

K thanks. Now for hopefull my final questions. Can it do a 1:1 from PC? Also are there any nagging problems other than the picture transfer thingy limited to 1000 pictures.

bulake

11-22-06, 07:03 PM

Sorry, I forgot to mention that i also went into the service menu and increased the contrast ratio higher than 100%. I set the contrast ratio to the "THX" contrast test that comes on the star wars dvd's. The tv is capable of displaying higher than 100% contrast without losing detail in the whites. Like I said though, i watch the tv in my room usually with no or one small light on, so it doesn't have to be very bright to look great.

I didn't realize the 66 didn't have black stretch. I think it does pretty much the same thing as dynamic contrast but it doesnt improve the colour saturation like dynamic contrast does. It does make the blacks darker in comparassion to the lights, but a black screen for instance would look exactly the same whether black stretch is on or off. With my settings, i just lose the detail in the blacks if i turn black stretch off.

The "black stretch" function does exactly that... it stretches the black on the whole screen. If the backlight is on and high enough, without displaying any image on the screen, turn the "black stretch" on and off. You will see that when it is off, some parts of the screen are whiter. When it's off, the black is more uniform.

I personally don't think it's the same thing as the dynamic contrast. I tried both TVs (32HL66 and 32HL86) and I have calibrated both using Avia. Using SDTV (expressvu receiver through s-video) there is a BIG differenece in image quality between the two sets. No matter what I did on the 32HL86, some channels where still looking bad. On the 32HL66 with dynamic contrast on, the image is spectacular on all channels. Black level is much better and the colors are definitely vibrant.

BTW, how do you get into the service menu? I am just curious about the settings in there. I had a Sony before, and using the service menu I manged to tweak the image very well.

slicecom

11-22-06, 09:04 PM

The "black stretch" function does exactly that... it stretches the black on the whole screen. If the backlight is on and high enough, without displaying any image on the screen, turn the "black stretch" on and off. You will see that when it is off, some parts of the screen are whiter. When it's off, the black is more uniform.

I personally don't think it's the same thing as the dynamic contrast. I tried both TVs (32HL66 and 32HL86) and I have calibrated both using Avia. Using SDTV (expressvu receiver through s-video) there is a BIG differenece in image quality between the two sets. No matter what I did on the 32HL86, some channels where still looking bad. On the 32HL66 with dynamic contrast on, the image is spectacular on all channels. Black level is much better and the colors are definitely vibrant.

BTW, how do you get into the service menu? I am just curious about the settings in there. I had a Sony before, and using the service menu I manged to tweak the image very well.

Ahhh you're right! The black stretch does affect the screen with nothing on it. I only got to compare the HL86 and HL66 with a HD signal and they were nearly identical. I couldn't do a side by side comparassion of SD, but thats fine by me because I only really watch HD!

To get into service mode:

press mute twice on the remote. ("mute" shows on screen)
press "mute" again and hold.
while holding, press the "menu" button on the tv's front panel.
release both buttons.

you should now see an "S" on the screen.
press "menu" again on the front panel.
you're now in service mode.

rebkell

11-23-06, 03:25 PM

Does the optical digital audio output pass through the DD 5.1 that comes in through the HDMI connections? Does the optical audio output connection send out the audio coming in from all the various inputs?

rebkell

11-23-06, 09:35 PM

yes, and yes.

Good deal, thanks for the info.

gosawx

11-23-06, 11:19 PM

yes, and yes.

Are you positive on that first one?

I have a 2005 Toshiba DLP and LCD with optical outs, and it is only an optical out for the Tuner of the set, not from other inputs. Maybe they made a change for this year? have you confirmed this on a 2006 set

Suma

11-24-06, 01:49 AM

K thanks. Now for hopefull my final questions. Can it do a 1:1 from PC? Also are there any nagging problems other than the picture transfer thingy limited to 1000 pictures.

Anyone....Bueller...Bueller?

rebkell

11-24-06, 11:44 AM

yes on the 2006 set.

Which model exactly are we talking about that passes through the hdmi DD 5.1 audio? I'm going to buy pretty soon, and this is one feature that I would really like to make sure I have.

tpfarr

11-24-06, 02:57 PM

1 browntrout

11-25-06, 02:41 PM

Just received a 42HL196 and took it out of the box today. Plugged it in an all I get is the red light blinking 3 times forever. Complete DOA. Called Toshiba and then called the local warranty repair shop and will have to wait for them to schedule a visit.

In the mean time any suggestions? voodoo? incantations to get it to turn on?

Wife is going to love this, it's her xmas present...........

Go to the "power" button on the TV, hold it down for 5 seconds and release it.

Wait for all the blinking of lights on the front end to stop blinking (about 30 seconds) then press the "power" button on from the remote and see if it boots up. 5 second hold ususally does a reset and should clear things up.

tpfarr

11-25-06, 02:51 PM

Go to the "power" button on the TV, hold it down for 5 seconds and release it.

Wait for all the blinking of lights on the front end to stop blinking (about 30 seconds) then press the "power" button on from the remote and see if it boots up. 5 second hold ususally does a reset and should clear things up.

Tried all that many times. It does not seem like anything is getting power other than that stupid blinking LED.

BTW - post 666 - could be a problem for me!!!!

Thanks for the reply though.

MXMike

11-26-06, 09:11 PM

Just picked up a 47LX196 last night from a local dealer. The family is pretty happy with it so far, we only have an SD source for now but the picture looks good. I did notice some subtle vertical banding while watching hockey but it didn't bother anyone else.

Anyway, our main complaint is with the small low-powered built in speakers. Eventually we will add a home theatre system, but I was wondering if a decent powered PC speaker system would work for the time being (for simplicity and cost). I noticed from the specs that this set has both an optical out and a variable audio out. I was planning to use the variable audio out jacks on the TV to connect to a 2.1 PC speaker system. Will this setup work to output audio from the current TV source to the PC speakers, and change with the TV volume?

Also, am I correct in assuming that if I use the TV's optical out to a PC speaker system then the speaker volume will not change with the TV volume?

Is there a downside to using PC speakers in this way, other than not having a very good amplifier compared to a proper home theatre sound system?

tpfarr

11-27-06, 11:37 AM

Good news from my dealer. He is going to exchange the 42HL196 with another one. Hopefully the second one will work.

CH49

11-27-06, 11:50 AM

Zoologico

11-27-06, 06:32 PM

Got my 42HL196 this weekend and began setting it up (I have a newborn; large blocks of time are not part of my reality). So far, have TW 480i digital cable (almost unwatchable), Xbox 480p (monster component - badly pixelated/aliased - really showing hardware's age), and 1080i upconvert DVD player (absolutely gorgeous) hooked up. Have a couple of questions though and not much time to read back pages in this thread, so if someone will be kind enough to indulge me:

1. Any links to somewhat definitive settings tweaks that the majority have agreed upon? I have played with it some, and it all looks good except for the deep blacks, which lack any detail whatsoever. Also wondering what my backlight should be set to?

2. The integrated OTA HD tuner & QAM tuner. I setup antenna 1 & antenna 2, trying to make #1 cable and #2 OTA, but I probably did it wrong. For OTA HD - I found zero stations (next door neighbor gets 11 stations clear as a bell w/ no antenna). The QAM tuner, I'm told, is the one that is supposed to improve/upconvert regular digital cable/satellite? Is that something i have to setup? Because like I said before, the ugliness of the signal really shows on this panel.

All in all, I'm an ecstatic new owner. It's obvious that this thing was a tremendous buy for the paltry price I paid for it. It's also obvious that I need to feed it the best sources I can to get the most out of it.

Ohh... almost forgot - #3 - TV Guide. Looks like a gimmick work around because a lot of cable co's dont use them. Is it really worth the setup hassle? My cableco's guide seems just fine.

#1 Not sure if there is such a thing because each of us will have different tastes, but you can look through this thread, some have posted their settings. Some have also recommended an ISF calibration from a local tech which I still don't know how to solicit.

#2 There is a channel detection feature for both ANT inputs. Usually those of OTA HD are desgnated by the channel and hyphen and 1, 2, 3. For example in my area ABC is 2-1. If you performed the channel detection process, , you can then go into the channel add/delete section (same place as the detection option), and see what was detected. If you still do not see anything, then I would recommend making sure your antennae is properly connected/positioned/directed. I find it hard to believe that your neighbor gets 11 channels without a signal, but you and him know what he gets better than I would. It just seems really hard to get OTA HD without an antennae and I am less than 15 miles from the towers.

#3 I don't know what you are using on your cable set, but the one the TV brings seems comparable to the ones I have seen on other cable and satellite set offerings. My advice is to check it out and see which one you like or works best for your and your family's TV viweing habits (maybe one is easier than another to use, or family is used to one over the other). Then decide. I have a feeling they will be comparable unless your cable set give you added functionality. I don't have a cable box hence I don't have the feature you already have. Now that I found this on the TV I cannot imagine how I watched TV previously. I can attest that it is not a gimmick. The only cons I found are:

1) There is an ad that gets displayed everytime you use it. Doesn't detract from the functionality, but it's there plain as day.

2) Using the TVGuide screen seems to respond just a little slower than the rest of the TV's functions.

Hope this helps.

I too have a newborn, 10 weeks now. She's great and I think she likes the TV. :) She was going wild watching me play a little Guitar Hero II the other night. It's still hard to tell at this age though. I do know that when a Black Sabbath song came on, her mood changed and she got sad. When I do get a chance to watch TV it's nice to have this great set. I won it in a costume contest on Halloween (my company is pretty crazy about Halloween). To be honest, I think that it is going for a great price, but I would have never bought it considering I would not have thought to spend money on a TV. Now I love it. I hope I don't have to replace it anytime soon.

How old is your newborn? Girl/boy?

Has anyone set up the THINC feature even witht he limitations? I was thinking of setting it up and swapping the latest 200 pics I have taken on the Windows side and trying something similarly on the music side. Not sure. I'm just trying to come up with an acceptable workaround. Teh thing is that if this was an item that was mass adopted like iPods and PCs running Windows someone would have already hacked the firmware and made the THINC features work uncrippled and the VGA accept greater than 1024x768 if it was possible through the firmware. I wish I knew more about these things.

I have one more idea on bypassing these limitations. If I remember to, I will pursue it this week.

CH49

11-28-06, 09:12 AM

I too have a newborn, 10 weeks now. She's great and I think she likes the TV. :) She was going wild watching me play a little Guitar Hero II the other night. It's still hard to tell at this age though. I do know that when a Black Sabbath song came on, her mood changed and she got sad. When I do get a chance to watch TV it's nice to have this great set. I won it in a costume contest on Halloween (my company is pretty crazy about Halloween). To be honest, I think that it is going for a great price, but I would have never bought it considering I would not have thought to spend money on a TV. Now I love it. I hope I don't have to replace it anytime soon.

How old is your newborn? Girl/boy?

My son is 10 weeks old too! I'll tell you that his eyes get huge when I turn the TV to something colorful, like a basketball or football game. I think it fascinates him, but of course I've been nagged that it's terrible for him (??)

On the TV Guide thing - I was hoping to use it with a cable card, but I dont think it works that way - it seems to need to override a cable box through that wire that's included. If I'm wrong about this, then someone please correct me, cause I'm ordering an HD box today.

Gouie

11-28-06, 12:06 PM

I too would be interested in finding a workaround to the 200 song limitation. It just blows my mind that they would introduce a great (in my mind) feature like this with such a limit.

As far as the warranty goes, I bought mine through my reseller. 4 additional years for $150.00. I'm not a huge extended warranty guy but at that price, huge piece of mine.

Zoologico

11-28-06, 12:10 PM

My son is 10 weeks old too! I'll tell you that his eyes get huge when I turn the TV to something colorful, like a basketball or football game. I think it fascinates him, but of course I've been nagged that it's terrible for him (??)

On the TV Guide thing - I was hoping to use it with a cable card, but I dont think it works that way - it seems to need to override a cable box through that wire that's included. If I'm wrong about this, then someone please correct me, cause I'm ordering an HD box today.

I'm not sure a little TV viewing will really do much damage. First of all, when they are 1-4 weeks old, they can't even focus beyond about 10-12 inches. Farther distances fade beyond blurriness into invisible. Beyond that, they start to see across rooms (our kids' ages now) so they can see the colors. Now I will concede that placing a child this age directly in front (inches away) from the set can't be a good thing (wouldn't be good for adults either), but watching colors change across the room isn't likely to cause more harm than it does to us which is widely accepted as negligible. This is from what I've read between baby books and magazines.

What does come up a lot more is the content they watch starting at a young age like ours. Like violence, screaming, sex, profane expressions are really frowned upon. So I try to be mindful of what is on the TV when she's in the room and if it isn't appropriate, I stop/change it, or go feed/change/play with her in another room.

My biggest concern is that since TV was invented, kids watch it more and more every generation. If it was all great programming for kids, my concern would be less, but there is some good and some bad and it just has to be managed properly.

Alright, about the CABLECARD, you got me stummped because I never even heard of it until I bought this TV. My take on it seems that regardless, would you not need a connection to "cable" through ANT1 or ANT2? I do know that ANT1 and ANT2 are the only way to use the TVGuide. All other inputs assume a "tuned" signal and you will have to use the cable box for tuning and from what it sounds like using a CABLECARD for watchign cable.

Zoologico

11-28-06, 12:12 PM

has anyone purchased an extended warranty on any of these sets? i've seen them as low as $142.99 for a 5 year warranty.

http://www.americanesuperstore.com/rmt52500.html

I bought the set from Fry's.
Seems to work great and do everything it's supposed to.
I did buy a 5 year prod replacement plan for $229.99.
I still have 2-3 weeks to return it.
I am seriously considering it.

Not sure if it is worth it.

Gouie

11-28-06, 12:26 PM

You have 2-3 weeks to return the extended warranty?

WideScream

11-28-06, 01:47 PM

On the TV Guide thing - I was hoping to use it with a cable card, but I dont think it works that way - it seems to need to override a cable box through that wire that's included. If I'm wrong about this, then someone please correct me, cause I'm ordering an HD box today.

I would think it should work without the cable box. Sorry I don't have my hands on this set yet to describe how so. But I've used the Guide system on other TVs and you usually can tell it there's no cable box and it tunes the channels directly.

Zoologico

11-28-06, 01:56 PM

You have 2-3 weeks to return the extended warranty?
Yeah, they sell the service like a product so you have 30 days to return it.

gosawx

11-28-06, 03:01 PM

I would think it should work without the cable box. Sorry I don't have my hands on this set yet to describe how so. But I've used the Guide system on other TVs and you usually can tell it there's no cable box and it tunes the channels directly.

I have a 37LX95 with cablecard, and it definitely works with no cable box. Just follow the setup instructions

SnellKrell

11-28-06, 03:11 PM

Zoologico -

Did you buy the set with a credit or bank card that automatically extends the manufacturer's warranty?

Zoologico

11-28-06, 03:47 PM

i think you should keep it; what if something happens to your $2000 tv set after toshiba's warranty is up? you just gonna drop another 2K on a new set?

No, but the likelihood of a fully functioning electronic device with no moving parts to fail is realistically very low.

If I move it and it falls and breaks, the product warranty does nto cover that.

I already bought a surge protector which should eliminate surge risk almost entirely.

A portable music player, video camera, or a digital camera that gets tossed around and has delicate optics and hard drives with moving parts, I can definitely see it, but a TV that remains static seems unlikely to start showing problems other than normal aging.

Still on the fence. The nice thing would be that at like 4 years and 11 months, the TV bonks out and I get a brand new one with the new technology from 5 years from now.

:)

It's likely that they'd just want to repair this one though instead.

I am tempted by what happened to me this year. I bought a digital camera 4 years ago (Canon s400). Lately it kept giving me errors that it could not read my mem card. I knew the memcard was fine because everything else I own was able to read all my mem cards fine. I gave up and I even started shopping around for another digital camera even though this one was a great one. Fast forward two weeks and I still don't have a camera and my little girl was about to be born in about a month so I was really sweating bullets about not having a fully functional camera for her arrival. Then I get something from BestBuy in the mail. A reminder that my camera's product warranty I bought for $50 was about to expire and that I shoudl consider extending it. Haha! I remembered (actually they reminded me) I bought it so I promptly went to the local BestBuy and they sent iot out for repair and had it back just in time. Cost me $50 three years ago to repair the camera.
:)
That was a happy ending.

Zoologico

11-28-06, 03:49 PM

Zoologico -

Did you buy the set with a credit or bank card that automatically extends the manufacturer's warranty?

No. I won the set in a Halloween costume contest.

Zoologico

11-28-06, 03:50 PM

I have a 37LX95 with cablecard, and it definitely works with no cable box. Just follow the setup instructions

Meaning that you plug in the CABLECARD into that TV's CABLECARD slot and you plug a cable into ANT1 or ANT2 right?

hENNIFER

11-28-06, 05:54 PM

Fast forward to a very happy Regza owner!

I scored a very reasonably priced Startech.Com ZEN 6.6' DVI --> HDMI cable through work in anticipation of hooking it up to my HTPC for a beautiful digital connection.

The following is my existing setup, and I'm just going to keep this short so I'm going to include only pertinant information (duh!)

Windows Vista Ultimate [MSDN final, for MCE] / Windows XP Home [games]
Gigabyte PCI Express GV-NX76T256D-RH (http://www.gigabyte.com.tw/Products/VGA/Products_Overview.aspx?ProductID=2235)
STARTECH.COM ZENDVIHDMI2 (http://www.startech.com/Product/ItemDetail.aspx?productid=ZENDVIHDMI2&c=CA) (that's so not the reasonable price! :))

I ensured that my display was already (When connecting to the DB15 port) running @ 60Hz (heeding warnings!), and swapped to the HDMI -> DVI cable.

After changing inputs to the HDMI1 input, everything looked to be coming along okay. Obviously the resolution wasn't perfect, so I went into the display properties to sort things out.

After trying a buuunch of various settings I thought (and had been planning on using!) would work -- 1280 x 720, 1920 x 1080 -- and while none of them made the screen act funny, the picture was extended beyond the corners of the television.

So I change the resolution (through the "advanced settings" button in the display settings) to 1176 x 664 and the picture fits the television beautifully. The information display indicates the incoming signal is 720p [nod to gosawx ;)] which satisfies the HD hunger inside.

Upon further inspection, 1768 x 992 fills corner to corner in 1080i, and Vista's throwing that out at either 29 or 30 Hz, your choice. I'd use 30Hz if I was to run it -- but for now I'll stick to 1768x992 as I don't want to squint too much =)

It seems Windows also gives the options for 29/30Hz (Interlaced) or 59/60Hz (Progressive) for each available resolution in the Advanced Settings portion. Nice!

Anyways, yeah.

gosawx

11-28-06, 11:35 PM

Meaning that you plug in the CABLECARD into that TV's CABLECARD slot and you plug a cable into ANT1 or ANT2 right?

yep,ANT 1 for me then follow the TVGUIDE set up

Spydc

11-29-06, 12:02 AM

gosawx

11-29-06, 08:32 AM

Does anyone know the official contrast ratio for the 32HL66? Some sites are listing it as 800:1. Isn't that a little low. How does it compare to the Samsung S3252D in terms of gaming? I'm having a hard time trying to isolate the best 32" LCD under $1200.

published numbers are only good for comparing contrast ratios within a brand,as there is no standard way to measure.

Zoologico

11-29-06, 08:45 AM

hENNIFER

11-30-06, 09:28 AM

Nice.
So this is your HTPC setup?
I can't tell if you were able to get the 1920x1080 native resolution support over the HDMI. Were you?

This is definitely my HTPC setup =)

1920x1080 "worked" but the edges were off the screen [extended about 3/4"] (that is, the picture was CENTERED, however it appears as though the viewable panel is 1768x992 -- because when I set the resolution to that, 1768x992, the picture extended corner to corner)

I didn't actually have any new games on the PC to play, so I went out and bought the Civilization Chronicles (Civ 1 + 2 [+mods!] + 3 [+mods!] + 4).. and on Windows XP Home with the latest (as of 2006-11-30) NVidia Drivers, the in-game resolutions are 1024x768, 1280x1024 and 1920x1080, which was a huge bummer because I can't play an RTS without seeing the entire screen!

Luckily I'm reading that in the CivilizationIV.ini file you can specify X and Y resolutions.. I quickly attempted 1176x664 this morning (720P adjusted for "smaller panel") and it didn't actually have any effect. Then I read that the game won't support X or Y's less than 1024x768.. which leads me to believe if I set the custom ScreenWidth and ScreenHeight to 1768x992 it will work as dreamy as possible =)

phew!

-- edit --

Now to go home from work and try that. C'mon 4PM! ;)

Zoologico

11-30-06, 10:19 AM

This is definitely my HTPC setup =)

1920x1080 "worked" but the edges were off the screen [extended about 3/4"] (that is, the picture was CENTERED, however it appears as though the viewable panel is 1768x992 -- because when I set the resolution to that, 1768x992, the picture extended corner to corner)

I didn't actually have any new games on the PC to play, so I went out and bought the Civilization Chronicles (Civ 1 + 2 [+mods!] + 3 [+mods!] + 4).. and on Windows XP Home with the latest (as of 2006-11-30) NVidia Drivers, the in-game resolutions are 1024x768, 1280x1024 and 1920x1080, which was a huge bummer because I can't play an RTS without seeing the entire screen!

Luckily I'm reading that in the CivilizationIV.ini file you can specify X and Y resolutions.. I quickly attempted 1176x664 this morning (720P adjusted for "smaller panel") and it didn't actually have any effect. Then I read that the game won't support X or Y's less than 1024x768.. which leads me to believe if I set the custom ScreenWidth and ScreenHeight to 1768x992 it will work as dreamy as possible =)

phew!

-- edit --

Now to go home from work and try that. C'mon 4PM! ;)

Sounds so sweet.
You shoudl try to keep the 1920x1080.
IN my nVidia control panel I can realign the edges so they fit.

That's what I did with my Dell I mentioned above and that allowed me to keep the 1920x1080.
Enjoy your new system!

WideScream

11-30-06, 10:38 AM

1920x1080 "worked" but the edges were off the screen [extended about 3/4"] (that is, the picture was CENTERED, however it appears as though the viewable panel is 1768x992 -- because when I set the resolution to that, 1768x992, the picture extended corner to corner)

It sounds to me like you're looking at overscan. Look back to post 326 where someone said changing to "native" mode solved the problem.

mdr25

11-30-06, 10:43 AM

It sounds to me like you're looking at overscan. Look back to post 326 where someone said changing to "native" mode solved the problem.

I was just writing to suggest that when your post showed up. With my Mac, I get perfect pixel-for-pixel resolution at 1920x1080 without any overscan when the TV is set to Native. If I use Natural, I lose the edges.

hENNIFER

11-30-06, 05:47 PM

It sounds to me like you're looking at overscan. Look back to post 326 where someone said changing to "native" mode solved the problem.

*slaps self in face*

I've never had anything hooked up via HDMI before so "5 NATIVE" has always been grayed out.. D'oh! :) Component cables only gave me 1-4 as options for "PIC SIZE"

Everything is looking fantastic and my outlook on PC gaming has never been better :)

Thanks so much! It's always something "so simple".. :)

I will ask however, why is it when I'm in 1280x720 it won't let me pick native? :(

shrugs =( Was hoping for a 'full' ;)

Zoologico

12-01-06, 07:46 AM

*slaps self in face*

I've never had anything hooked up via HDMI before so "5 NATIVE" has always been grayed out.. D'oh! :) Component cables only gave me 1-4 as options for "PIC SIZE"

Everything is looking fantastic and my outlook on PC gaming has never been better :)

Thanks so much! It's always something "so simple".. :)

I will ask however, why is it when I'm in 1280x720 it won't let me pick native? :(

shrugs =(

I think it makes sense.
The TV's native resolution is 1920x1080.
If you feed it 1280x720 it cannot "naturally" display it. It must apply some sort of stretching.
At least that's my interpretation.

baltazar_qc

12-01-06, 10:06 AM

*slaps self in face*

I've never had anything hooked up via HDMI before so "5 NATIVE" has always been grayed out.. D'oh! :) Component cables only gave me 1-4 as options for "PIC SIZE"

Everything is looking fantastic and my outlook on PC gaming has never been better :)

Thanks so much! It's always something "so simple".. :)

I will ask however, why is it when I'm in 1280x720 it won't let me pick native? :(

shrugs =(

Hi, Native is only for signals of 1080i or 1080p. That's written in the user manual (the BIG one). I checked yesterday, because I wanted my component connected DVD to output Native. But my dvd signal is only 480i or 480p. So I picked FULL in the display mode of my 42LZ196.

I hope this helped you...
bye

aleks415

12-01-06, 11:36 AM

Hi everyone!

I wish I had read this thread before we got our new Toshiba 37" 37HL86. We got it just 2 days ago and the first night it was great. We are floored at how wicked the picture is.

Then last night after work I noticed that the "ghost bars" that have been brought up on this thread were there. Like many others they have appeared on the right hand side of the screen. One thicker vertical line and 2 slightly lighter ones. They were extremely noticeable on the screen against a white backdrop like a hockey rink. We adjusted the screen picture and moved it to the right and of course then they were gone. But for the price of this tv, this shouldn't be an issue and I'd like to have my programming centered (I mean it's not noticeable based on the +3 to the right but still...)

We also haven't received our HDTV box yet from our cable company so we're waiting to see how the picture looks with HDTV that before we do anything.

Has anyone figured out any way to resolve this?
Is it a setting issue?
Or do we have to lug this back to Best Buy and exchange it for another one?

thanks!

slicecom

12-01-06, 11:46 AM

aleks415

12-01-06, 12:00 PM

slicecom

12-01-06, 12:10 PM

slicecom Thanks for replying so quickly! We are also in Toronto and have the Rogers Digital Cable box already but we just don't have the HDTV box.

So if this is happening with the digital cable then it's probably a screen defect right?

No problem! And yes, unfortunately I’d say it's probably a screen defect if that's the case. :(

Zoologico

12-01-06, 06:42 PM

slicecom Thanks for replying so quickly! We are also in Toronto and have the Rogers Digital Cable box already but we just don't have the HDTV box.

So if this is happening with the digital cable then it's probably a screen defect right?

Could you or anyone seeing these bands take a picture and let us see them?
I don't think I have them but now I am really curious to see what they look like.
Thanks in advance.

MorrisonHiker

12-03-06, 12:57 AM

Sergey M

12-03-06, 01:28 AM

Based on my research, it looks like 26HL66's made by Toshiba and not Orion. Do you guys know by any chance if the same applies to 26HLV66, that's the one with DVD player built in? Thanks in advance.

dildano

12-03-06, 06:51 PM

Well guys, I took the leap today and bought the 47LZ196 from a local Tweeter. I don't think we're supposed to discuss pricing, but let's just say that it was about $750 under MSRP. Interestingly, I think that Tweeter is phasing out the Toshibas. All of their LCD models were marked "sell stock and no reorder" (or something like that) on the price sheet. The sales guy wasn't much use. Anyway, I would have been happy with the 42LZ196, but couldn't pass up this deal on the 47. Unfortunately, I'm not having it delivered until Saturday when I'll be home to receive it and get it set up (we're still painting the den). I'll give you an update once I get it set up. Woohoo!

tech?

12-03-06, 09:56 PM

I just ordered one from Tweeter too; should pick it up tomorrow (Monday). I also didn't get much help from sales - same issue with phasing out Toshiba models. I hope I like it!

thetruth1983

12-04-06, 10:22 AM

I also noticed that when using natural, the sides of the screen are cut off when playing the xbox 360 and the ps3. I have 2 questions. Is it possible to have native mode always be the default when using a 1080i input? Also, since the screen displays everything in 1080p, it native mode being displayed as 1080i or 1080p? Thanks in advance to anyone who can help!

mdr25

12-04-06, 10:35 AM

I have 2 questions. Is it possible to have native mode always be the default when using a 1080i input? Also, since the screen displays everything in 1080p, it native mode being displayed as 1080i or 1080p? Thanks in advance to anyone who can help!

Turn off "Auto Aspect Ratio" in the Picture menu. (Maybe it is under Advanced Settings?) That should keep it from reverting back to Natural.

The TV ALWAYS displays in 1080p. Any source you feed it will be upscaled, upsampled, and/or deinterlaced as necessary to be displayed at 1080p.

thetruth1983

12-04-06, 10:46 AM

Thanks a lot. I actually mapped a button on the harmony remote to change the aspect ratio when playing video games but now I don't have to worry about that anymore. I always wondered what that auto ratio was for. Again, thanks for your help!

justpete

12-04-06, 12:19 PM

jgl360

12-04-06, 12:44 PM

Browsed thru the whole thread but found no sufficient feedback on the 37HLC56. Has someone tried this and comment on it? Any issues?

mrcapi937

12-04-06, 04:29 PM

Well, so it took me like 3 days to read through this whole thread! yikes!

anyway, I'm still having problems with my 42HL196...

I have a digital receiver from Rogers, but the SD channels look terrible. Almost unbearable. ok, pretty much unbearable.. I dont' know how much more I can take!

I tried a bunch of different settings that were posted here, but I haven't found any settings that I liked.. my picture is still miserable and "grainy". (Especially dark pictures).

I'm trying to fiddle with it but can't seem to get it right.. any ideas on some setting that I might try altering?

Also, I notice that some of the images have "artifacting". It's like when you turn a .bmp in to a .jpg, and you have those shifts in the screen. I may and try to post a picture later.

And a couple of other questions...

1) Is it wise to skip the Rogers receiver and connect it directly to my ANT1 connection? I Hate the rogers channel listing.. and my box is horribly slow.

2) I tried hooking up a 50db gain antenna to my set.. I barely get 2 channels and they always cut out. I'm in a spot where the signals should be almost over-saturated. I tried disabling the gain but the same problem still exists. I should be able to receive about 11 channels in the area I'm in. Any one else had problems with their antenna reception that was solved?

3) I need an "upconverting" DVD player to replace my aging Sony DVPNS315 It doesn't do any sort of high-def and it's standard 480i. Is there a "Top 3" upconverting DVD players that would look great on my new LCD? I tried the sony.. I'm not a big fan of how it looks.

Thanks for any help!

Gongrats on your purchase and research on this forum. I have learned alot from this site. I purchased my 42HL196 a couple of weeks ago and was shocked at the pic quality when I got home. It did not compare to the quality displayed at Sears on their HD DVD player loop they were running.

I am running a Digital Dish DVR and the pic was nothing special. I am not ready to spend the $200 needed to upgrade to Dish HD DVR or spend the extra money for HD programing they want. So this is what I did.
I put a channel master antenna in the attic. I didn't need the preamp I had already purchased. It is unlikely that you will get all the channels or you will only have limited signal strenth with an indoor antenna. I can get all the OTA channels in HD and the pic looks great! So at least I know there's nothing wrong with the TV. Now when my dish contract is up I will switch either to cable or direct tv to get the free HD equipment and a better price for HD programming than is offered by dish.

justpete

12-04-06, 07:17 PM

try this one: it's extremely high quality and the video is superb.

OPPO DV-970HD

they have it on amazon for around $149.00

Yes, I started researching the ones on the other forum. I'm either going to get the OPPO DV-971HD or the one released just last week 981 (?) (I'd prefer black).

Crosby, were a great number of changes made to your service menu options by the technician? Any chance that you have those documented?

UPENN997

12-04-06, 07:50 PM

hey guys, as it turns out I will not be joining the ranks of you Toshiba Regza LCD owners. I cancelled my order after many issues that the company did not have, but its shipping VENDOR. My package was ordered and sent out to the correct address, however, the vendor that the company used to ship my 42inch Regza LX absolutely screwed up for nearly a week and a half now and still can't find my tv. The lost it in michigan (at a sort facility) and it ended up in Colorado (I'm in AZ... so it's not that damn far away).... and that's the last they know of it. They promised to have it by friday or today (not including the weekend, apparrently they don't work on the weekend)-- and then today told me that they should have it by this thursday.

I don't think that I am out of line by cancelling my order (even if the 100 dollar shipping fee was offered back to me). The tv should have been here last TUESDAY and truly then, last MONDAY. I am very disappointed (seeing as how I have a playstation 3 with like 5 games and 3 movies and have yet to even hook it up to what I thought would be a great tv).

Once my refund is processed I intend to order a different tv from a different store---Right now it's looking like a 46 Inch Samsung LN-S4695D 46-IN LCD.

Some of the issues I had with the Regza (before even getting it) was the sorta flaky advertising saying that it was 1080p (when it IS technically 1080p) however, only accepts 1080i signals. That was pretty disappointing. Additionally, the computer input issues .. one would have to have a hdmi to dvi cord to take full advantage of the tv, opposed to using its VERY own RGB computer input. The input would only go up to 1080 x 768--- I never understood why.

To me the biggest killer was the only 1080i input. This tv is expensive enough to have an 1080p input STANDARD.... so that coupled with the absolutely ****** shipping company made me cancel my order and look elsewhere.

I think if this board has a samsung portion, I will migrate over there to see what the deal is on that particular flat panel.

gosawx

12-05-06, 01:12 AM

was the sorta flaky advertising saying that it was 1080p (when it IS technically 1080p) however, only accepts 1080i signals.

To me the biggest killer was the only 1080i input. This tv is expensive enough to have an 1080p input STANDARD....

Have you researched the difference between a 1080p/60 input and a 1080i/60 input?
If you haven't, I recommend you do so. Th Vast majority of educated buyers realize that there is no difference...

UPENN997

12-05-06, 08:45 AM

ocrts

12-05-06, 09:40 AM

I did research it actually, quit extensively. I and P--- I stands for interlaced ( the pixels fill in odd and then even on the screen at 1080 resolution). P- Progressive, it's a single straight shot --- the entire screen gets the picture at one time without any issues.

LCD's and DLP's have a processor that is supposed to take care of this process (accepting a 1080i signal and turning into progressive, as dlp's and flat panels are naturally progressive in nature).

Essentially, THERE IS some loss (probably so small that I could never see it) but some loss of picture quality as the set's processor converts the image to a progressive.

This whole 1080i/p argument is stupid. If the TV has a good de-interlacer (and all the non-cheapo brands do), then your eye won't see any difference whatsoever. Your eye cannot discern video faster than 30fps. When a 1080i signal gets de-interlaced, that's what you get: 1080p at 30fps, as opposed to what everyone calls 1080p: 1080p at 60fps. Picture quality does not change. The only advantage to a "1080p" HDTV is that it can accept that signal, so it might be somewhat future-proofed, but I would imagine any source that will output 1080p will also output 1080i for the forseeable future.

gosawx

12-05-06, 11:50 AM

I did research it actually, quit extensively. I and P--- I stands for interlaced ( the pixels fill in odd and then even on the screen at 1080 resolution). P- Progressive, it's a single straight shot --- the entire screen gets the picture at one time without any issues.

LCD's and DLP's have a processor that is supposed to take care of this process (accepting a 1080i signal and turning into progressive, as dlp's and flat panels are naturally progressive in nature).

Essentially, THERE IS some loss (probably so small that I could never see it) but some loss of picture quality as the set's processor converts the image to a progressive.

How many pixels are in a 1920 x 1080 progressive image (1080p)?
Answer: 2, 073,600
How many pixels are in a 1920 x 1080 interlaced image (1080i)?
Answer: 2,073,600

The resolution is the same. The only difference is whether the signal is sent progressively, meaning one whole frame at a time, and displayed by the set as is or, if the signal is sent interlaced, meaning each frame sent 1/2 frame at a time, then deinterlaced (or re-assembled) by the display device. No loss in Picture quality.

I'd like to recommend to all that they read the November 2006 issue of Home Theater Magazine, as the article on page 34 ..it explains it all vey well

This will differ with sets that can accept and display NATIVE 1080p/24 information for HD DVD/blu-ray...more coming in 2007

None of this matters AT ALL with regards to broadcast, of course, which is 1080i or 720p...

Zoologico

12-05-06, 12:55 PM

How many pixels are in a 1920 x 1080 progressive image (1080p)?
Answer: 2, 073,600
How many pixels are in a 1920 x 1080 interlaced image (1080i)?
Answer: 2,073,600

The resolution is the same. The only difference is whether the signal is sent progressively, meaning one whole frame at a time, and displayed by the set as is or, if the signal is sent interlaced, meaning each frame sent 1/2 frame at a time, then deinterlaced (or re-assembled) by the display device. No loss in Picture quality.

I'd like to recommend to all that they read the November 2006 issue of Home Theater Magazine, as the article on page 34 ..it explains it all vey well

This will differ with sets that can accept and display NATIVE 1080p/24 information for HD DVD/blu-ray...more coming in 2007

None of this matters AT ALL with regards to broadcast, of course, which is 1080i or 720p...

Any chance we could find that online?

Also, anyone get pics of the ghosting bands?

gosawx

12-05-06, 01:19 PM

Any chance we could find that online?

Also, anyone get pics of the ghosting bands?

http://hometheatermag.com/gearworks/1106gear/

Zoologico

12-05-06, 01:27 PM

http://hometheatermag.com/gearworks/1106gear/

Great article.

He refers to other info and I think I tracked some down. Her eis what he posted:

t is unlikely that native 1080p/60 content will ever be broadcast or distributed in wide numbers. The reasons for this are too numerous to get into here, but I list them in my follow-up blog.

If a TV doesn't correctly deinterlace 1080i, on the other hand. . .well, that's a different article (which is conveniently located on page 64).

Here is what I found:

Asked by Aron:
Hi Geoff. Good article -- it's important for people to understand that, in principle, you don't lose info with 1080i. However, I think it's also important to emphasize that, in practice, deinterlacing is not trivial, and that therefore virtually all TV's (and progressive scan DVD players) introduce some degree of error into the process (even if it's not the kind of wholesale error that you uncovered in your recent article on bob vs. weave).

Also suppose you have a TV that accepts 1080p/60, but not 1080p/24. In that case, 2:3 pulldown is unavoidable for film-sourced material. But is it at least possible to avoid interlacing/deinterlacing? i.e, will any of the next-gen HD-DVD or Blu-Ray players that output 1080p/60 implement 2:3 pull down using entire frame (rather than by creating interlaced fields, as is done in the current players)? I'm looking for a player that will do 1080p/24->1080p/60, rather than 1080p/24->1080i/60->1080p/60.

Answer: You are correct, it is possible to lose something in the interlacing or de-interlacing process. It's going to be very slight unless it's done horribly wrong. While it would surely be ideal to be able to output the source at its native rate and display it at its native rate, for the vast majority of displays this isn't possible (due to technology and $$$). What I hoped to point out is that the difference between 1080p and 1080i is incredibly slight, for the most part. I had been getting emails from people who seemed to think 1080p was twice as good as 1080i, and for movies this just isn't the case. In fact, on most TVs I doubt you'd see the loss of anything from correctly done de-interlacing, given all the other things a TV can do to screw up an image. Does seem worth investigating, though. Perhaps an article in the future.

I believe the next BD players from Pioneer and Panasonic will skip the interlace step and just add the 3:2 to the 1080p/24 to get 1080p/60 directly. The Samsung, being the first player, is doing something rather wacky with that extra step.

Asked by TomH:
Great article, but how do I know if a TV de-interlaces 1080i correctly?

Answer: Unfortunately, there is no easy way for an end user to check this. We'll be publishing an update to the de-inleracing article soon. With any luck, we'll do them on a regular basis. Also, we do that test to any 1080p display we get in here. Check back after CEDIA, there may be some news about a way for you to do the test (but still not easily).

Zoologico

12-05-06, 01:52 PM

Last one...

It seems that the only place that a difference will be seen on the REGZA sets between 1080i and 1080p is when using a source that sends 1080p at 60 fps as opposed to the 24 fps most sources (TV and movies).

This can be achieved when using a gaming console or computer as a source for video. I will not be hooking up an XBOX360 or PS3 anytime in the sets foreseeable future, so there will be no difference as far as my usage is concerned.

However, to those that will use this set in that capacity, this is a real consideration they should make.

See below from http://blog.hometheatermag.com/geoffreymorrison/ :

1080i v. 1080p

Posted Mon Aug 7, 2006, 1:57 PM ET

There has been a lot of concern and confusion over the difference between 1080i and 1080p. This stems from the inability of many TVs to accept 1080p. To make matters worse, the help lines at many of the TV manufacturers (that means you, Sony), are telling people that their newly-bought 1080p displays are really 1080i. They are idiots, so let me say this in big bold print, as far as movies are concerned THERE IS NO DIFFERENCE BETWEEN 1080i AND 1080p. See, I did it in caps too, so it must be true. Let me explain (if your eyes glaze over, the short version is at the end).

For clarification, let me start by saying that there are essentially no 1080i TVs anymore. Unless you bought a CRT based TV, every modern TV is progressive scan (as in LCD, Plasma, LCOS, DLP). They are incapable of displaying a 1080i signal as 1080i. So what we’re talking about here mostly applies to people with 1080p native displays.

Movies and almost all TV shows are shot at 24 frames-per-second (either on film or on 24fps HD cameras). All TVs have a refresh rate of 60Hz. What this means is that the screen refreshes 60 times a second. In order to display something that is 24fps on something that is essentially 60fps, you need to make up, or create new frames. This is done using a method called 3:2 pulldown (or more accurately 2:3 pulldown). The first frame of film is doubled, the second frame of film is tripled, the third frame of film is doubled and so on, creating a 2,3,2,3,2,3,2 sequence. It basically looks like this: 1a,1b,2a,2b,2c,3a,3b,4a… Each number is the original film frame. This lovely piece of math allows the 24fps film to be converted to be displayed on 60Hz products (nearly every TV in the US, ever).

This can be done in a number of places. With DVDs, it was all done in the player. With HD DVD, it is done in the player to output 1080i. With Blu-ray, there are a few options. The first player, the Samsung, added the 3:2 to the signal, interlaced it, and then output that (1080i) or de-interlaced the same signal and output that (1080p). In this case, the only difference between 1080i and 1080p is where the de-interlacing is done. If you send 1080i, the TV de-interlaces it to 1080p. If you send your TV the 1080p signal, the player is de-interlacing the signal. As long as your TV is de-interlacing the 1080i correctly, then there is no difference. Check out this article for more info on that.

The next Blu-ray players (from Pioneer and the like) will have an additional option. They will be able to output the 1080p/24 from the disc directly. At first you may think that if your TV doesn't accept 1080p, you'll miss out on being able to see the "unmolested" 1080p/24 from the disc. Well even if your TV could accept the 1080p/24, your TV would still have to add the 3:2 pulldown itself (the TV is still 60Hz). So you're not seeing the 1080p/24 regardless.

The only exception to that rule is if you can change the refresh on the TV. Pioneer's plasmas can be set to refresh at 72 Hz. These will take the 1080p/24, and do a simple 3:3 pull down (repeating each frame 3 times).

Short Version
What this all means is this:

• When it comes to movies (as in HD DVD and Blu-ray) there will be no visible difference between the 1080i signal and the 1080p signal, as long as your TV correctly de-interlaces 1080i. So even if you could input 1080p, you wouldn't see a difference (because there is none).

• There is no additional or new information in a 1080p signal from movie based content.

• The only time you would see a difference is if you have native 1080p/60 content, which at this point would only come from a PC and maybe the PS3. 1080p/60 does have more information than 1080i/30, but unless you're a gamer you will probably never see native 1080p/60 content. It is incredibly unlikely that they will ever broadcast 1080p (too much bandwidth) or that 1080p/60 content will show up on discs (too much storage space and no one is using it to record/film).

So all of you people who bought 1080p displays only to be told by the companies that you had bought 1080i TVs, relax. The TV will convert everything to 1080p. Now if you bought a TV that doesn't de-interlace 1080i correctly, well, that's a whole other story.

InYourEyes

12-05-06, 03:01 PM

Based on my research, it looks like 26HL66's made by Toshiba and not Orion. Do you guys know by any chance if the same applies to 26HLV66, that's the one with DVD player built in? Thanks in advance.
Yes, the 26HLV66 is also made by Toshiba. Please be aware that this may be Toshiba's final year making LCD TVs, before they will all be outsourced to Quanta or Orion next year. So far, this year, all Toshiba CRT tube TVs, LCD TVs sized 23" and under, and plasma TVs are made by Orion. I've been following the Toshiba outourcing to Orion trace since 2001, and every year, more and more Toshiba products are being made by Orion.

LWHJR1

12-05-06, 04:17 PM

aleks415

12-05-06, 04:50 PM

Though I'd update anyone who was interested in the "ghostbar" (aka vertical lines on the right side of the screen) issue on our new 37HL86.

We lugged the 37" tv back to Best Buy and they of course had to test it when we brought it back to see if it was indeed defective. They checked all the formats, SD, NTSC, HD, Analog, you name it. My husband messed around with the controls and settings in all of the formats as well. Nothing. The TV was crystal clear.

The TV customer service rep explained that sometimes when you have a box that acts as your tuner (as we do with the Rogers Cable box) the transmission actually causes lines in some formats and that when we got our HDTV box we wouldn't notice anything.

We bring the tv home, plug it in to our Rogers Cable box and voila! Lines appear.

Ironically our new Rogers HDTV box arrived the next day and as soon as we plugged that box in with the tv, all the lines were gone, in all of the tv formats.

So in the end it's not the TV screen that was defective but the Rogers Cable box and its poor feed.

My suggestion to those having the line issues is to call your cable provider and see if they can offer you a new box and see if there's a difference. Because it very well may be the solution to this and not be a defective screen.

Hope this helps anyone who may be having ghostbar issues. Other than that, this tv is just beautiful!!

The only frustration we have is that more channels should be moving to HD b/c some of the standard format transmissions are just awful in any format other than the smaller one. But hockey and football on this are just surreal.

ghostboy88

12-05-06, 05:12 PM

ive heard the "cable box theory" before concerning the ghostbars and i can assure you that its not the box connected to my set. i also get the ghostbars when playing dvds. in fact, i use the light blue disney logo at the begining of beauty and the beast to show the repairmen who come by to check out the problem exactly what is happening. and speaking of that, ive now had four different guys come by to check this problem out, two from best buy and two from a authorized toshiba repair shop, and in all cases its been the same thing-they tell me theyve never seen it, have no idea what to do, tell me they'll look into it and get back to me and than, never call back. this has been a frickin nightmare. the damn tv is only two months old and im stuck with it...i find it completely absurd that i may have to send it in to get repaired already. long story short, both best buy and toshiba should be ashamed of themselves and in a nutshell they both suck.

Sergey M

12-05-06, 06:48 PM

Yes, the 26HLV66 is also made by Toshiba. Please be aware that this may be Toshiba's final year making LCD TVs, before they will all be outsourced to Quanta or Orion next year. So far, this year, all Toshiba CRT tube TVs, LCD TVs sized 23" and under, and plasma TVs are made by Orion. I've been following the Toshiba outourcing to Orion trace since 2001, and every year, more and more Toshiba products are being made by Orion.

Much appreciate the info. I've read the same thing about transition to Orion. I missed the boat on 27HLV95 and the whole CableCARD deal. I'll make sure to grab one of these 26HLV66 while it's still made by Toshiba. Thanks again.

mdr25

12-05-06, 11:14 PM

ive heard the "cable box theory" before concerning the ghostbars and i can assure you that its not the box connected to my set.

Aleks, I'm glad your set is working now, but I'm in the same boat as Ghostboy on this; I get them on all VGA and HDMI inputs as well as clear QAM cable (no box) and OTA. My TV is in the shop now, and I have a small amount of hope because the tech there claims he doesn't see any problem, and he's looked at a bunch of different test patterns and programs. He said it might be some interference either from the power source or the input signal, but I won't be convinced until I see it ghostbar-free with my own eyes. I passed up the chance to have it returned to me yesterday just so I can go down there in person and take a look at it on their bench. I'm bringing a recording that I know will show the problem and we'll see what happens. Hopefully that'll go down Thursday; I'll post an update.

Has anyone other than Aleks and Jack from post #544 had any luck with resolving their ghost bars (aside from returning it to the place of purchase)?

WideScream

12-06-06, 12:01 AM

Got my 42HL196 today.

PIP / POP Update:

Major disappointment. POP is very limited. The left side can be ANT1 or ANT2. The right side has to be a component or HDMI input. So to watch two live programs at once I have to buy another component like a cable set top box (I tried so hard to avoid one) or a PVR with component output. I had been planning to use the VCR. The WAF on this TV was sky-high until we discovered this limitation. Now she'd like me to return it because she misses PIP.

Color bar update: No noticeable color bars on my set.

txs

12-06-06, 12:08 AM

Buk

12-06-06, 12:32 PM

Hi,

Been following the discussions for awhile and just want to comment on the ghost bars and laptop connection.

I haven't seen the bars on our 42LX, don't watch any hockey so I'm not sure if I would see them if they are there.

Hooked up my MacBook Pro to the TV using a Monster DVI to HDMI adapter and a HDMI cable. The MacBook recongnized it was hooked to a (TSB) Toshiba TV with the following possible resolutions: 1344X1008, 1600X900, and 1920X1080 all at 60Hz.

Now can anyone recommend a good or better quality HDMI switcher box? I can see I need another HDMI connection for the laptop.

Thanks,

Buk

Zoologico

12-06-06, 01:03 PM

aleks415

12-06-06, 05:35 PM

How did you move the picture +3 to the right? Did you go through the service menu? Could you list the instructions? I have one 1080i channel which, at Native resolution, displays one column of unused pixels from top to bottom on the far left side. It's annoying and I'd like to try and adjust that out. Thanks.

LWHJR1 To do this you get your remote and click on the Menu. In the settings scroll to Set Up and then on page 2 in Set Up you will find a selection of which I cannot remember the exact name they have written off the top of my head, but it's fairly obvious it's about movement of the screen. Click on that and then adjust at will to the direction you want your frame to go (much like a computer monitor)

ghostboy88 I am sorry to hear the cable box issue isn't what is causing your problems. Are you sure it's not the actual cables vs the box? I was convinced my tv was useless but I swear to you on another feed it was like night and day and the moment we took it home they came back with our original feed and connections. Either way for a 2 month old TV Toshiba at this point should be replacing it seeing as it's still under warranty. I do agree with mdr25 that it could be something causing intereference with your signals. Have you tested the tv in another environment? That is if the problem started early did you get the store to test it if and when you tried to return it?

Buk

12-06-06, 06:56 PM

Why do you feel you need an HDMI switcher?
The native res of the TV is 1920x1080 and you already have that.

Sorry, I may be using the wrong terminology. One of those boxes you plug multiple HDMI in cables and one comes out to feed the TV.

I've got my cable box feeding the TV thru one of the HDMI ports and a DVR feeding the other HDMI port. I need another for the laptop, plus some day it be nice to have a HD or Blu-Ray DVD player. So thats four HDMI inputs.

Thanks,

Buk

Cattledog

12-06-06, 08:36 PM

Buk, check out the DVDO HDMI switcher. You can find them for a reasonable price on EBay

moose1975

12-06-06, 09:07 PM

Zoologico

12-06-06, 10:07 PM

I have had my 42hl196 for two months. I had the ghost bar problem. I had purchased through Sears, so I went through their home service (after calling Toshiba and getting responses others have here). They localized the problem through their tech center in Texas to the digital board. It arrived in about a week and they returned and installed. No more ghost bars. The tech did not say if there was a known problem/revision. Took a look inside and it is very clean construction. I would have bet $$$ it was the lcd. Good luck in getting rid of the ghosts.

Good stuff.
Glad you got it worked out.
I wish someone would have posted the ghost bars in an image.
Anyone?

dildano

12-06-06, 10:28 PM

txs, I haven't actually received my 47LZ196 yet as it is being delivered on Saturday. Also, I probably won't get a chance to try out the THINC feature until I get my media PC up and running, and that could take a while.

Anyone else have an LZ, and tried out the THINC feature?

As for the StableSound feature, I haven't been all that impressed with it on my 32HLV66. I've got Time Warner Digital Cable, and the HD channels are much lower volume than the SD channels. I'm not sure if it's supposed to help when switching between channels, but it doesn't appear to do anything for me. And I haven't really noticed whether it's helping out on a single channel (volume differences between a TV show and a commercial). I'm sure others have more useful comments on this as well...

txs

12-06-06, 11:55 PM

mdr25

12-07-06, 09:49 AM

I wish someone would have posted the ghost bars in an image.
Anyone?

This probably isn't going to happen because the effect is pretty subtle and only becomes apparent when watching a moving image. Think of it this way: If you looked at a picture of a TV displaying a hockey rink, and part of the rink looked slightly brighter, it would just look like the lighting on that side of the rink was different. Your brain barely even registers it. It is only when the camera pans and the light stays on the same place on the screen instead of the rink, that it is noticible that something is wrong with the set (or signal, or whatever). I tried taking pics of mine a while ago and they just didn't show the problem.

Moose, thanks for the info on your digital board. That might come in handy when I go to the shop later today to check on my 42HL196.

1 browntrout

12-07-06, 01:12 PM

I hope that doesn't prove to be true? I know the FCC REQUIRES the cable companies to support CableCard. Unless the cable companies are convincing TV manufactures to not include the slot, I don't know why we're not seeing MORE of them?

But I agree they're missing from lots of new models--including the brand new Sony 1080p LCDs, most of the Sharps (you don't get a CableCard slot in a new Sharp until you spend about $8000) and almost all of the "second tier" brands
(i.e. Syntax, Vizio, etc.).

CableCard slots make lots of sense. They're the modern day version of a "cable ready tuner" which became commonplace in the 80's. They eliminate the ugly (and often beat up) cable box, they potentially eliminate lots of signal Onprocessing/scaling/conversion (improving picture quality), they allow using a single On user friendly TV remote (vs the cable company's cheapie), and they simplify operation of the TV.

The Cable company that gives us our service, TWC, is very, very bad about supporting CableCard capable TV's and should be reported with a written letter to the FCC for their dragging of their feet in tech support.

The point is this: A cable card does everything a set top box does but it does it better... It doesnt switch signal back and forth from digital to analog, it allows the tuner built into your TV set to handle the signal, and believe me, the Toshiba QAM tuner does a wonderful job on getting the signal to your screen as clean as possible.

What every consumer must do is make the cable companies understand that flat panel TV's were designed to be self contained and designed to be mounted flush against the wall to save space. This design feature required the implementation of cable card.

THERE IS NO NEED FOR A SET TOP BOX, NOR IS THERE A DESIRE FOR USING ONE WHEN YOU HAVE A WALL MOUNTED LCD. IT'S AND EYESORE, AND ANOTHER REMOTE TO HAVE TO FIDDLE WITH, ADD BATTERIES TO, BREAK, AND CLUTTER UP YOUR VIEWING AREA WITH.

All the cable companies care about is screwing you for income stream of $10/ month more for a set top box, versus $1.50 a month more for CableCard. Hence their crappy support of cablecards. Most consumers are pretty Pc savvy, there is no need to run crew out to install a cablecard. It's funny how you can call TWC on the phone and their online menu has a "reset" feature for set top boxes.... Funny, why dont they have this online feature for CableCard also? Can you smell the stink of something funny going on here? Cable company is doing their damndest to make Cablecard go away. Other cable companies allow you to go pick up a cable card yourself from them, install it yourself (as easy as installing a WIFI NIC card in your laptop for wireless access) and call in the cablecard ID # and your TV's Host ID #, and then things work just fine.

I can hardly wait for the day that cable cards come built in to th LCD TV sets, just like wifi chipsets come built in to laptops with 802.11 b and g wireless. Then the cable companies will lose out on the cable card income stream all together and will lose their incentive to screw the consumer for income steams!!! Watch for this to happen when 2 way cablecards come in to existence. They will come from the factorys like Sony and Toshiba already built in.

We just took delivery of a 42HL196 on 12-4-06, Cable company shut the HDTV programming off on our 37HL95 when we called to get them to arrange a date for the new TV, 4 days before it arrived? WTF? We asked for an appointment, not for them to shut our existing cable card service off. TWC is crooked about this. All we asked for is a service call to marry the cable card to the new host, the new Tosh 42HL196, not shut our service off.

On Wednesday, 12-6-06, they sent 2 technicians in to do the job, and after 2 hours of futzing around, they still couldnt get the HD channels to work, after numerous calls and numerous installs of 4 different CableCards.

Funny how an hour after they left, we started getting HDTV channels. They even called Toshiba warranty office and claimed there was an incompatiblity issue with the software, was a more current software/firmware version available, and this was on an October 2006 build 42HL195! Today (Thursday) they made another visit, only to find out that the cable card does indeed work after they left yesterday!!!!

The point I am trying to make is this: The Head End over at Time Warner Cable is the one that controls/screws up the decryption and what you get or dont get on your HDTV via your CableCard, and since we've had CableCard since March 2006 (the closing of the Winter Olympic ceremonies), we've had them out at least 10 times. That's right, they roll a crew on wheels out every time, it's as if they are trying to show the FCC how much money they are losing so they can worm out of a POP cablecard obiligation in the future.

Sure, your signal strength can be weak, it should be optimized at 0dBmv plus or minus 10dBmv, sure, they should measure your signal strength at the TV first, sure they should check to make sure you have RG-6 cable instead of crap coax that was wired into your place 20+ years ago, but do they? Rarely, or not at all in our case, until we asked them to fix it and make it work.

Getting back to the ToshY 42HL196... just an amazing picture last night on Discovery HDTV as well as ESPN HD Sports and INHD TV and INHD TV2.... this is an upgrade from our Toshiba 37HL95 which we relocated to our vacation home.

Love it, ordered it online on CyberMonday for $1568 from BuyDig.... Good outfit to do business with, have used them twice and highly recommend them.

Ergonomically Toshiba has made some changes for their remote control.

Some features missing or I haven't found them yet on the new 42incher... The remote does not have the in the dark buttons light up feature, and has Pic Mode, and Brightness or Backlight 4 choice mode buttons missing from the CT90255 model remote. Also, the side switch which used to control TV/DVD/cable/sat has been replaced with buttons, making the unit too long and combersome :-(

Best improvements on the remote? volume rocker has a molded "braille" type of button on it for identification, and they did a great job on relocating the "mute" button that is much easier on your thumb. I'm waiting for them to design software that 50% mutes all commercial content automatically. ;-)

Also of great design it the bottom of the remote has a lateral "groove" in it, making it very easy to "index" the remotes length in your hands up and down. Toshiba engineers have not sat idle, resting on their laurels, this is good design in the ergonomics sector, and is greatly appreciated!

Picture Quality? WOW! Toshiba still has it, without the Sony price gouging so prevelant these days. Sure they may be runner up to Sony in image, but when I look at how much discretionary income is left to complete the home entertainment package, it's a win / win as far as we are concerned.

Others have complained about the buzzing aound on less than 100% Backlight? If they hear a backlight buzz, it must be the viewers commenting about how awesome the picture is.

I am very much interested in some picture settings reccomendations for OTA programming or HDTV Cable. Just trying to optimize some tweaks in the picture for our viewing pleasure.... This 1920 x1080 screen rocks, and we really have no desire to hook up our PC's to the TV, or use it for a gaming screen... Let the kids burn up a cheap screen for gaming, this is for viewing entertainment industry material and movies.

The only thing Toshiba forgot was the hot popcorn and butter machine on this unit... it's that good for us. We are about 10 feet from the screen, love the clean lines, no set top box, no extra remote....nothing, but a clean, clean, clean installation.

MorrisonHiker

12-07-06, 03:36 PM

Does anyone have an idea of the power consumption for the 42LZ196 (on and in standby mode)? I've seen that other TVs vary greatly from 200 to 300 watts when on and .1 to 1 or more watts when off. I've searched everywhere and the stats for the 42LZ196 are always blank or **.

I received this back from Toshiba:
The power consumption for that model averages 191 w while on, 33 in standby with a cable card and 29 w without a cable card.

29 and 33 watts? Yikes! Why would Toshibas use 33 to 330 times as much power when in standby (compared to 0.1 and 1.0 watts for other manufacturers)? I'll be writing back to ask them to confirm this figure.

Gouie

12-07-06, 03:41 PM

That seems really high. That's half the power of a 60W bulb. No way I'd leave a light on 24x7.

Zoologico

12-07-06, 05:03 PM

I received this back from Toshiba:
The power consumption for that model averages 191 w while on, 33 in standby with a cable card and 29 w without a cable card.

29 and 33 watts? Yikes! Why would Toshibas use 33 to 330 times as much power when in standby (compared to 0.1 and 1.0 watts for other manufacturers)? I'll be writing back to ask them to confirm this figure.

The higher than expected power consumption while OFF might be explained by the fact that the TVGuide setup mentions that the cable lineup is obtained when the power is OFF.

UPENN997

12-07-06, 07:43 PM

1080i/ 1080p ---- Continued.

I think everyone knows the difference (or lack thereof) between 1080i and 1080p....

They are at the same resolution- the difference is how the picture is displayed... and yes, with a good deinterlacer or whatever there should be no visible difference. However, I do disagree... The image must be converted somehow to P and thus, some how there is degradation. I am not a videophile or anything, but at the price these tv's run, they better be damn near perfect or else.

1080p--- Very few things take use of this and I have the one that does--- so, to me, not being able to get the most out of my expensive tv is beyond disappointing, it is a deal breaker.

Also, I don't get the whole limiting the RGB connection... why do that?

Overall, the tv seems to have great features, but for a few hundred more I am in the market for a 46 inch samsung LCD that can do everything that I wanted this particular TV to do (the LX series).

mdr25

12-08-06, 10:00 AM

I went into the repair shop yesterday and took a look at my TV on their bench. No ghost bars. The tech cycled through a bunch of test patterns and I even hooked up my laptop to display a signal that I knew I'd see it with...nothing, the image looked great. They hadn't done any repairs at all, because they couldn't see the problem.

So I took it home, and voila, they were back. This was with the computer as the only thing hooked up. It definitely isn't a problem with my cable signal.

There are only two possibilities, as far as I can tell: 1) I couldn't see the bars at the shop because of the angle I was looking at the TV, or 2) something in my house is causing interference.

The first one is a real possibility and I didn't really think of it until I got home. I tried to look at it from several angles at the shop but it was tough because of the set up there (and it didn't dawn on me how important the angle may be until later). I noticed at home that from certain angles the ghost effect diminishes, but it never really goes away. So there's a chance that is it, but I doubt it.

Any suggestions for figuring out the second issue? I guess I should try moving it around my house to different outlets on different circuits. Anyone think a power conditioner might help? I've never used one and always figured they were like Monster cables: maybe they help a tiny bit but ultimately aren't worth the money.

Even if it is an intereference issue, I'm not really prepared to say that the TV is without defect. It might be some circuit in the TV is faulty but that the fault is only apparent under certain conditions. That's why some people report success with replacing the TV while others just change something in their setup and the problem goes away. Either way, it certainly is frusterating for us owners with the problem. :confused:

ALICANTINO

12-08-06, 02:20 PM

Hey guys and gals,

I am looking at purchasing a Toshiba 42hL196. Have seen this tv at BB and have been reading through the threads. Am quite impressed .. except for the possibility of 'vertical bands' that some people are noticing on their Toshibas.

Two questions:

1) Does anyone know if Toshiba has addressed the 'banding' problem (I know Toshiba has been receiving a few calls about this)?

2) Can anyone confirm that the 42HL196 properly deinterlaces an incoming signal properly? That is, does the 42HL196's processor wait for the second 540-line segment to arrive and then properly weave them together to create the full-resolution frame or does it show the first 540-line segment and makes up the other half like cheaper processing chips?

Any clarification would be greatly appreciated.

Alicantino

WideScream

12-08-06, 03:07 PM

mdr25 -- Sorry you're having such a hard time. I'd be tearing my hair out by now. Could you try to move the TV away from all possibly interfering wires and devices? I'd try to move it into the center of a room, preferably one where I know there's no wiring in the floor. Of course if it's caused by something coming down the power line, that won't help.

Everyone else -- I was quite nervous about getting ghost bars but am glad I took the chance. This is a very nice TV. SD pictures from the QAM cable are great. HD pictures and sound are excellent. TV Guide is vastly improved over previous generations and still very cool.

ghostboy88

12-08-06, 04:02 PM

glad to hear your problem was solved and am encouraged by the fact that best buy is in the process of sending a videoboard to replace the one that is currently in my set. it should be at my house either today or tomorrow. than, its just a matter of swaping it out and praying that those damn bars are gone. ill post again when I see the results. fingers crossed...

I have had my 42hl196 for two months. I had the ghost bar problem. I had purchased through Sears, so I went through their home service (after calling Toshiba and getting responses others have here). They localized the problem through their tech center in Texas to the digital board. It arrived in about a week and they returned and installed. No more ghost bars. The tech did not say if there was a known problem/revision. Took a look inside and it is very clean construction. I would have bet $$$ it was the lcd. Good luck in getting rid of the ghosts.

ALICANTINO

12-08-06, 04:58 PM

[QUOTE=Zoologico]Last one...

It seems that the only place that a difference will be seen on the REGZA sets between 1080i and 1080p is when using a source that sends 1080p at 60 fps as opposed to the 24 fps most sources (TV and movies).

This can be achieved when using a gaming console or computer as a source for video. I will not be hooking up an XBOX360 or PS3 anytime in the sets foreseeable future, so there will be no difference as far as my usage is concerned.

However, to those that will use this set in that capacity, this is a real consideration they should make.

QUOTE]

My kids will be playing xbox360 and wii on the 42HL196. Xbox360 will have a firmware upgrade for 1080p output I suspect that since not many games (if any) are developed in native 1080p anyway, the xbox can just be left at 1080i output and there really isn't much to worry about using the 42HL196 for gaming? Only that if you did use 1080p/60 output and had a tv that accepted 1080p/60 it would be slightly better?

UPENN997

12-08-06, 09:15 PM

exactly. I think I saw this week what people were talking about-- about lcd's having an issue properly displaying fps .. there was a sharp 52' aqaous that is supposed to take 1080p and it was running on a blu ray player... it looked sharp, but it looked like it was having major issues running @ at least 24 frames per second. I WOULD HATE to spend the money for something that I expect to look decent to have it look the way I saw the sharp lcd.

For me---- I can spend a few hundred more and buy the 46inch Samsung 95 model that supports 1080p and has a brighter screen--- then it's a good decision. I know the samsung doesn't have as many options in regard to fine tuning, but I own a samsung DLP and can certainly live with what it can dish out.

BTDTGATS

12-08-06, 11:14 PM

I have had my 42hl196 for two months. I had the ghost bar problem. I had purchased through Sears, so I went through their home service (after calling Toshiba and getting responses others have here). They localized the problem through their tech center in Texas to the digital board. It arrived in about a week and they returned and installed. No more ghost bars. The tech did not say if there was a known problem/revision. Took a look inside and it is very clean construction. I would have bet $$$ it was the lcd. Good luck in getting rid of the ghosts.

Hi

I would like to know your serial number please? I have a 42HL196 and can't be sure if I have the ghost bar problem or not. Maybe it was a batch with a defect. Sometimes I think I see it and then I can't. Any help is appreciated. I got my set at Best Buy. Where can I locate the sears paople who know how to fix the problem?

Thank You

BTDTGATS

12-08-06, 11:18 PM

A7MAD

12-09-06, 02:48 AM

I'm after a 1080p HDTV that offers 1080p via VGA and component without the over scanning crap issues that Samsung have. Sony can’t offer 1080p via VGA and Component so they are not an option but how does the Toshiba 47" 47LX196 hold up (as in PQ when running with the Sammy and Sony sets), as well as with 1080p via component, VGA and HDMI?

moose1975

12-09-06, 10:58 AM

My serial # is am322007057. Since I bought at sears, I just used the 1-800-4my-home service number. These guys have their act together. I did house calls 10 yrs ago and I wish I had their equipment. All the calls lined up with gps. Mobile network out of their truck to access parts/support. I wish I had paid more attention to the numbers on the part box. It definitely said "digital board." Having had a look into the inside of this set, it pretty much is the only digital board.

1 browntrout

12-09-06, 08:24 PM

bm196

12-10-06, 03:04 PM

New question: does anyone have the Toshiba 37lx96? Comments, please (can't find in "search).

ea77

12-11-06, 05:22 PM

picked up a 26hlv66 any ISF or avia calibrated settings recommendations?

Very impressed by this set so far even with my own person preference settings.

Tuan

12-11-06, 08:25 PM

picked up a 26hlv66 any ISF or avia calibrated settings recommendations?

Very impressed by this set so far even with my own person preference settings.

Same I got mine last night. I love it so far. I can't seem to find where to label the channels though? The website says it supports channel labeling though.

gindie

12-11-06, 10:39 PM

I have had a 26HLV66 for a little over a week now. Only HD source right now is UHF antenna.

Annoying thing is on all inputs I am frequently getting bluish/purplish flesh colors. Lips look purple, yet when the scene changes it may not be bad at all. But, it has gotten to the point that it is playing tricks with my mind.

I have tried various color/tint adjustments, but without a lot of luck. Has anybody else noticed this? I know Consumer Reports indicated a bluishness, is that what I am experiencing?

SnellKrell

12-12-06, 07:00 AM

Same I got mine last night. I love it so far. I can't seem to find where to label the channels though? The website says it supports channel labeling though.

Same here!

Cannot find a way to lable channels.

ea77

12-12-06, 09:35 AM

not sure if it's the channel label. but i think you press a home key looks like a house at the bottom left of the remote and you get some sort of channel guide that pops up at the bottom. either that or that feature did not make it into the production version of the TV. Didn't play with the TV too much (got it for the in-laws) don't want to grow too attached to it, but was rather impressed by the LCD (didn't notice any sluggishness or artifacting in the non action movie I was watching).

Considering this Toshiba's are about 25% cheaper than than competition, wasn't expecting it to be the best but really was impressed. Excellent value from an inhouse developed TV!

wtbrowN

12-12-06, 10:38 AM

Just bought a Toshiba 42hl196 for the second floor bedroom, and had Cablevision install cablecard. No banding issues. TVGOS works great. Picture is great on digital and HDTV channels, not so hot on analog channels. The supervisor at Cablevision has this model himself, and says it has a far better picture with cablecard than cablebox, as he has used both with it. So I encourage all of you using a cablebox to consider switching to cablecard if you want the best hdtv picture possible. Will post more as I learn more about any issues. One issue is that channels 702(CBSHD) and 713(PBSHS) dont come in right, all tile blocks and signal meter turns red. Only on these two channels, and my other Toshiba 37hl95 located on the first floor with cablecard never has this problem. Cablevision is sending a lead tech out to check out the wiring of the jack, but I doubt that is the issue as I have tried another jack on the second floor to no avail. Do any of you have this problem, or have any suggestions? I have tried it through a Cablevision amplifier at the splitter as well as no amplifier and two different jacks on the second floor.

ridgefamus

12-12-06, 12:37 PM

picked up a 26hlv66 any ISF or avia calibrated settings recommendations?

Very impressed by this set so far even with my own person preference settings.

I've had the 26hl66 for 3 weeks now and love it with 2 reservations:

1. The advertised viewing angle is ~174 degrees. I find a pretty good dropoff in vividness at any point beyond a 45 degree point from center, so I find a usable viewing range of 90 degrees. This doesn't really come into play in my situation as I put the TV in a built-in bookcase in my den. There are only two seats, both in the sweet spot. :)

2. The StableSound feature is virtually useless, whether it's audio from channel to channel or commercial to program within the same channel. I find the same variances that other TVs have.

Like others have posted before, I find it odd that Toshiba has a picture control (Back Light) that doesn't appear to do anything. Has anyone figured out how it might work in combination with any other of the picture settings? I've done quite a bit of playing with it and haven't seen any obvious effect.

mdr25

12-12-06, 01:50 PM

Like others have posted before, I find it odd that Toshiba has a picture control (Back Light) that doesn't appear to do anything. Has anyone figured out how it might work in combination with any other of the picture settings? I've done quite a bit of playing with it and haven't seen any obvious effect.

The backlight control on my 42HL196 definitely has an effect. If I crank up the backlight, the TV physically hurts my eyes. It is just too bright, especially if the room is dark. It doesn't really change the color saturation (maybe the blacks get a little bluer), but the whole thing gives off more light, like staring at a 50 watt bulb vs. 150.

Maybe on the smaller models it isn't as noticible because the screen doesn't fill as much of your field of view? Try adjusting it in a dark room, and keep in mind that like contrast and brightness, you won't notice much of a difference between, say, 99 and 100. But 25 and 100 should look quite different. If you really can't see a difference, maybe your backlight is out. But if you are happy with the overall picture I wouldn't worry about it.

I agree with your comments on the viewing angle. Looks pretty good up to 45 degs off center, and then the quality drops but it is still watchable up to almost 90.

wtbrowN

12-13-06, 01:25 PM

I notice an electrical smell from my new Toshiba 42HL196. It reminds me of a lcd monitor I have that does the same thing. It permeates the bedroom where its placed. Have other noticed it and will it ever go away?

ridgefamus

12-13-06, 02:24 PM

Just took my 26hl66 up to the bedroom to see if that screen size would be appropriate and to determine how good an OTA signal I get up there. I disconnected it from the Comcast box I had it hooked to in the den but don't want to have to get another STB for the bedroom. Upon connecting the coax from the wall in the bedroom (to utilize the QAM tuner in the set), it dawned on me that there was no way to add an OTA antenna at the same time.

Just using Antenna A as my source, the OTA signals were too weak to pull in anything. I have a Silver Sensor and would like to be able to switch to that for my "A" source but also have the option to change to cable/QAM. Should I use a switchable splitter? Or am I being too picky about getting OTA and be satisfied with what the QAM pulls out of the wall for my HD programming? Are there any other combinations of leads or something I'm missing in hooking this up?

mdr25: Thanks for your input. I'll take some time to view and play with backlight in dark settings.

BK EH

12-13-06, 03:47 PM

ridgefamus

12-13-06, 05:09 PM

ridgefamus... I don't know about Comcast, but we are looking at getting this set for use with DirecTV (SD & HD) and HD OTA. We will feed an OTA cable into the back of the DirecTV box and also have a cable from the dish into the back of the box. Then one HDMI (or component) connection to the 26HL66. The box handles it all in one guide. We could also have the box connected the same way, and have the OTA cable into the Ant. connector, but then we'd have to change TV inputs.

Is your Comcast box capable to do that? Or, does it not have any other output than RF cable to the TV? If not, then some kind of external switching (that I'm not up on) would be the only other choice I can see.

Good Luck!

Thanks for the input. Comcast output options from the Moto 6200 box are component, composite, S-video and DVI. So there is no coax out to use to wire it to the Tosh coax/ANT in. I've been using the component while it's been in the den environment. (I have the Moto 3416 DVR for my main room viewing.)

But I'm trying to avoid using any box at all in the bedroom and make the best use of the OTA tuners built into the TV. But those tuners (ATSC and NTSC) seem to want a stronger signal. I can provide it but if I do, my utilization of the QAM tuner goes away, unless I do some kind of split and switching, or am missing something obvious. I was just wondering if anyone has performed such a feat and what the best means might be.

gindie

12-13-06, 11:17 PM

I have a 26HLV66. Trying to delete unneeded channels that were added automatically during the initial scan. I went to the Channel Add/Delete as described in the manual, unchecked all the undesired channels and clicked Done. However, when I then do the Channel Up/Down on the remote, all the scanned channels remain. I have tried every combination of checking and unchecking of the boxes, but still all the channels remain in the Up/Down.

Is there anything I'm missing here?

BK EH

12-14-06, 04:27 PM

Gindie...I'm taking a stab here, because I don't have the set yet, but isn't there a 'favorite channels surfed' aspect to that remote, that remembers all you surfed when it's "on?" They may not be cleared out -- mght have something to do with it.

Also... what do you think of the built-in DVD player of your unit? How's does the upconverted 720p DVD picture look? I am in a toss-up between it and the HL66 because my .com source has just an 80 buck upcharge for the HLV66.

Thanks!

Cattledog

12-14-06, 05:47 PM

Sound and Vision gave the Toshiba 47LZ196 the cover for Jan 2007 calling the set a "Feast for the Eyes" and a Screen Gem" :)

MCaugusto

12-14-06, 06:22 PM

[QUOTE=Cattledog]Sound and Vision gave the Toshiba 47LZ196 the cover for Jan 2007 calling the set a "Feast for the Eyes" and a Screen Gem" :)[/QUOTE
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
That's interesting, considering that Home Theater magazine reviewed the Toshiba 42LX196 in the January 07' issue and found that the unit failed in its measured resolution at 480p (measuring only 470), 720p (620) and at 1080i (970), perhaps "because high-frequency noise can be more noticeable on a 1080p panel and Toshiba may have made a conscious decision to roll off the high frequencies to render a cleaner picture", as theorized by the reviewer.
However, the Toshiba exhibited excellent gray-scale tracking after calibration as well as color points that were very close to those specified by SMPTE.
At its minimum backlight setting, the 42LX196 achieved a black level of 0.049 ft-L with a 0-IRE field and about 34 ft-L with a 100-IRE field, compared to the Sony KDL-46XBR2, which measured at 0.018 ft-L and about 24 ft-L....So, in other words,, at minimum backlight setting, which is where all LCDs achieve their best black levels, expect the Sony to be significantly "blacker" than the Toshiba, although not quite as bright...
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Marcos

Cattledog

12-14-06, 06:50 PM

Marcos, those 2 sets aren't even the same line! Your post references the 42""X" line. Sound and Vision reviewed the 47" "Z" line big difference. Do some research. Geez!?????????? :confused:

MCaugusto

12-14-06, 07:05 PM

Cattledog, no need to get so defensive : after all the title of the thread is "the official 2006 Toshiba Regza LCD HDTV thread"; Wouldn't that also include the "X" line ? Are you that well informed about Toshiba HDTVs to state that the "Z" line and the "X" line use different panels and video processing chips ?
Likewise, do some research as well, and relax, Geez !?????????

GTZ

12-14-06, 07:46 PM

Sound and Vision gave the Toshiba 47LZ196 the cover for Jan 2007 calling the set a "Feast for the Eyes" and a Screen Gem" :)

Looking forward for my Jan. issue of Sound and Vision to arrive so I can read the review. I recently purchased this set and have been very happy with it. :D

gindie

12-14-06, 08:27 PM

Gindie...
Also... what do you think of the built-in DVD player of your unit? How's does the upconverted 720p DVD picture look? I am in a toss-up between it and the HL66 because my .com source has just an 80 buck upcharge for the HLV66.

Thanks!

BK,

Thanks for the suggestion about the channels issue.

As for the DVD, I think it looks great, and having it integrated sure saves space.

wtbrowN

12-14-06, 09:27 PM

I have a brand new Toshiba 42hl196 with cablecard that loses all the channels after its turned off a few hours. Toshiba say it has the latest firmware and cant help. Cablevision has done all they can. I must return it to Best Buy unless someone can help. Do any of you have success with this or any similar model using a cable card?

Gouie

12-15-06, 09:22 AM

I haven't noticed exactly what you're describing but I do have a related issue. I run a dual tuner sat receiver with the second tuner running to my Toshiba. At present it's through antenna 2. For this to work antenna 2 has to be set to cable in the config. Every once and a while the tv will loose the cable setting and revert back to antenna. Very annoying. Not sure if it's an issue with the set or not but sounds similar to you problem in that it's loosing configured settings.

tstolze

12-15-06, 11:04 AM

tpfarr

12-15-06, 11:46 PM

Finally after 3 weeks I've received my replacement 42hl196. The first one was DOA. This one works! Got all the QAM local digital channels on basic cable. OTA looks fine too, with all DC and Baltimore stations available using an indoor silver star antenna. Need to do some AVIA calibration and take some grey scale measurements to see how far off things are. But for the moment it's nice to have a working one.

rebkell

12-16-06, 11:23 AM

tpfarr

12-16-06, 01:05 PM

I don't know if this has been asked, this thread is growing steadily. The set has 2 RF connections, what are they all about, for instance I have analog cable with the HD locals in QAM, would the coax connection from the cable company only have to be connected to one of the RF connections and allow regular analog 2-99 plus the QAM, or would you need a splitter to get analog 2-99 on one tuner and QAM on the other?

Each input has the same capablity (OTA or cable). For your case you only need to use one input to see all the analog cable channels as well as any digital channels on the lower analog band.

Other digitals channels in your area that are not on the cable system can be gotten using the second rf input and an antenna.

rebkell

12-16-06, 01:42 PM

Each input has the same capablity (OTA or cable). For your case you only need to use one input to see all the analog cable channels as well as any digital channels on the lower analog band.

Other digitals channels in your area that are not on the cable system can be gotten using the second rf input and an antenna.

Thanks, I just ordered one a few minutes ago.

AlpineCarver

12-16-06, 01:51 PM

i'm interested in using a 32HLC56 with a PC outputting 1024x768 (4:3 aspect ratio) thru a DVI-to-HDMI cable. i'd like 1:1 pixel mapping, with no scaling, displaying 1024x768 in the center of the screen, with black areas to the right and left. i assume this is what "native mode" does. is that right?

i also want the lowest possible latency for gaming, so i assume i need to enable "game mode".

i would also like to run audio from the PC's headphone output to an analog input on the 32HLC56, while the video is going thru HDMI.

can anyone confirm whether or not this would all work on the 32HLC56?

gosawx

12-17-06, 09:21 AM

jseahawk

12-17-06, 11:06 AM

We bought the REGZA 32HLV16 (built in DVD player) at Costco. Unfortunately, it was a bad experience. It was the nicest looking and most well thought out design of all brands - a very enjoyable tv watching experience that I will miss.

After watching about a dozen DVD's on it, the last one froze while playing. It would no longer read any disc. This set was manufactured in July 2006. We loved the tv so much that we exchanged it for another one at Costco. The second one, which was manufactured in November 2006, was crooked. It was 3/8" higher on the right than the left. If they can't even make the tv level, I'm not confident that the DVD player would have lasted long in this one either.

I exchanged the second one for a Panasonic TC-32LE60. No offense, but I like the Panasonic picture so much more (after calibration) that I'm glad the Toshibas were defective.

So there you go. My input on the REGZA. Thanks for all the great information in this thread.

der_kommissar

12-17-06, 02:42 PM

I own that model, but I have not used the VGA input yet. I do have an Xbox hooked up to it thru component, however, and can say that there are no issues with latency at 480p and 720p. "game mode" I believe, does not change latency, but simply turns the TV off after a specificed amount of time to prevent kids from playing too much. If I get a chance I'll hook up my Macbook to the VGA out to see what it looks like

i'm interested in using a 32HLC56 with a PC outputting 1024x768 (4:3 aspect ratio) thru a DVI-to-HDMI cable. i'd like 1:1 pixel mapping, with no scaling, displaying 1024x768 in the center of the screen, with black areas to the right and left. i assume this is what "native mode" does. is that right?

i also want the lowest possible latency for gaming, so i assume i need to enable "game mode".

i would also like to run audio from the PC's headphone output to an analog input on the 32HLC56, while the video is going thru HDMI.

can anyone confirm whether or not this would all work on the 32HLC56?

Gouie

12-17-06, 02:45 PM

Hey guys,
I'm finally getting around to mounting my 42" but can't for the life of me figure out how to remove the stand.

HELP!!!!

tstolze

12-17-06, 04:56 PM

Hey guys,
I'm finally getting around to mounting my 42" but can't for the life of me figure out how to remove the stand.

HELP!!!!

4 or 5 screws going straight in the back, the stand slides out the bottom. Very simple once you figure it out... ;)

Suma

12-17-06, 06:07 PM

Heyas, I was wondering if anyone could post some pics of the HL66 or HLV66 in SD and HD.

dildano

12-17-06, 07:04 PM

I finally got my new 47LZ196 set up on Saturday, and I think it may be suffering from the dreaded ghost bars. I read back through this forum, and it sounds like there are a couple of different definitions for ghost bars. What I'm experiencing is about 4 or 5 inches of brighter picture on either side, and a line straight down the middle where it looks like the brightness is slightly different between the two halves. As others have described, it's mostly visible on lighter backgrounds during movement. A good example is a show on Discovery HD with lots of sky footage (skydiving). I spotted it right away, and it drives me up the wall.

So does anyone else agree that this sounds like ghost bars, or is this something else? Either way, I guess I'll be calling Tweeter pretty quick...

By the way, it's definitely not my cable box. I experience the problem using a digital cable box over DVI-to-HDMI as well as from my old DVD player over component cables. I've also tried playing around with the backlight, but this problem is always visible. Any suggestions?

AlpineCarver

12-17-06, 09:45 PM

"Native mode" is only a function of their 1080p sets, not their 720p sets. It's designed to eliminate overscan, via HDMI, from 1920 x 1080 signals.

This is not a feature of the custom series sets

thanks for the info.

i take it this means that there is no way to get 1:1 pixel mapping, with no scaling, thru the HDMI port at 1024x768 on a 32HLC56.

is that correct?

justpete

12-18-06, 02:31 AM

it appears, I too, have the dreaded ghost bars. I noticed them while watching "March of the penguins" on an Oppo 981. I then changed the source to another HDMI, and Component from my xbox 360. The ghost bars, 3 inches of brighter picture from each side of the tv, were visible from all 3 inputs. I'm going to call the store tomorrow and see what i can do. I purchased the set on Nov. 28th. Sigh.

I will post a picture tomorrow, if anyone wants, so that othes might see what they look like.

justpete

12-18-06, 08:47 AM

Gouie

12-18-06, 09:39 AM

4 or 5 screws going straight in the back, the stand slides out the bottom. Very simple once you figure it out... ;)

Thanks!
Found four of them, 2 on either side and just couldn't figure out why it wouldn't come off!

By the way, tv looks great mounted. Took 3 hours of playing in the attic to pull all of the cable but well worth it. Only problem I have is with the mount itself. The bracket on the wall is 100% level but there must be a slight difference in the mounting hardware attached to the tv as one side is slightly than the other. Drives me up the wall. I'll have to figure something out!

Capt. Hot Sauce

12-18-06, 01:24 PM

I've had my 42lx196 for a few days now. Overall, I am happy with the TV. The internal scaler does a very nice job with SD. The limited VGA isn't much of an issue since DVI->HDMI seems to be working well for me. The only negative I really have about this TV is, of course, the "ghost bars". I noticed them right away on the SD DTivo channels. There are three bars. On the right, left, and a thinner bar down the center. They are harder to see on HD channels, but are definitely there. I can't see them(but they may be there) on screens generated by the TV(such as the TV Guide).

When the service tech came out, he said Toshiba had narrowed the problem down to two possible parts. They are going to replace both parts to be certain they correct the problem. He said the parts are back-ordered (imagine that) and it will be about two weeks before they can get them in. Hopefully I'll be able to provide more specific information about the parts then.

Gouie

12-18-06, 02:46 PM

Interesting picture. What are you displaying? Thats the first picture I've seen that clearly shows the problem.

Elias26

12-19-06, 06:38 AM

When the service tech came out, he said Toshiba had narrowed the problem down to two possible parts. They are going to replace both parts to be certain they correct the problem. He said the parts are back-ordered (imagine that) and it will be about two weeks before they can get them in. Hopefully I'll be able to provide more specific information about the parts then.

Thanks for the info. I didn't think the problem could be fixed but now you gave me some hope. I guess it's time to give Toshiba a call.

tpfarr

12-19-06, 07:19 AM

My 42lh196 does not appear to have any ghost image issues. I'm thankful for that.

JohnRocker60

12-19-06, 07:56 AM

I did a lot of research before buying 2 42LX196 sets. I wanted one for my living room and bedroom. I had narrowed down my search to the Sony 40 inch 2500 series, The Sharp Aquos 4262u and the Regza 42LX196. First off I do alot of research but in my eyes have to take forums with a grain of salt. Usually people who are happy never post and you just hear from the people with issues the real percentage of owners with problems is never known. Example is a friend who owns the sharp 4262u, He loves it and has no banding issues with it. One day it would be nice to have figures on what percentage of a model is actually returned or in need of service.

Now for me. Not wanting to be a copycat and buying th Aquos I decided on the Regza 42LX196,( the sony 40 inch 2500 series was 400 dollars more and I couldn't see the added money for a smaller screen). I paid [EDIT] for the Regza and my only complaint was waiting a month for my local PC Richards to get them in. I took delivery on 12/4 and I couldn't be happier. The picture on SD is among the best I saw in my running from store to store ( and I would have the store switch to standard cable when viewing the tv's, not the HD loop) and the Hi-Def is beyond description. Either I'm not as critical as others or it isn't there but I have no ghosting or any issues with the set at all. I didn't need to adjust it as it's playing just as it came from the box. I can only imagine if it was professionally calibrated how super it would look. Just wanted to add that probably like all sets that there are good and bad and those who own them who you can never make happy. As for the issue with 1080i versus 1080p I've seen them both and unless your right on top of the set I couldn't see the difference, so to me it's not an issue.

In my opinion the Regza 42LX196 is a super set that I'm sure anyone would be pleased with.
Just for the record I use the standard coaxil cable for sd viewing and the 3 wire composite for Hi-Def, on Hi-Def the audio is from my receiver.