On a side note, I am looking for a networking piece that will allow me to connect my tv to it and allow it to utilize my wireless network. Has anyone heard of such a piece, and if so, what is it called?

I think you are describing a networking bridge, such as the Linksys WET54G. You can also use a computer that has both wired and wireless connections as a bridge, but this is a little tricky.

I thought the TV could only receive instructions by email, e.g. instructions to watch or record a show. I didn't realize I could use it to see my own email. That's cool! I'm going to have to get it hooked up!

What you're looking for specifically is a wireless router. Regardless of the equipment you use, you will require a hardwired line from the tv.

What you're looking for specifically is a wireless router. Regardless of the equipment you use, you will require a hardwired line from the tv.

Just plug the set into an open port on your wireless router. You should be able to link it to your network. As has been mentioned before, the mp3 player and jpeg viewer is pretty weak...you can only access 200 mp3's and 1000 jpegs. Not very useful.

On a side note, what about everyone here mass emailing Toshiba the article from Sound and Vision Magazine that specifically describes the issue with ghost bars that they (Toshiba) deny are a problem with their sets? Maybe they'll get the hint. Maybe they'll put out a recall, or offer a firmware upgrade? (Probably not, but it's worth bugging them about).

Here's my email to them:

Toshiba has repeatedly denied that the "ghost" or "shadow" bar is a problem with their large panel LCD TV's. Here is a review from Sound and Vision magazine on your 47LZ196 set. They specifically describe the problem as follows:

"the sky on either side of the screen seemed a little lighter than in the center. Earlier, I had observed that on dark gray test patterns, the Toshiba's image was slightly brighter in its far left and right zones than in the middle, and now here it was in program material."

Here is the link to the full review: http://www.soundandvisionmag.com/hdtvs/2046/toshiba-47lz196-regza-47-inch-lcd-hdtv.html

How do you explain this?

Feel free to copy/paste this. You can contact them via their website: http://www.tacp.toshiba.com/customersupport/contact.asp

Do you have a link to the article?

Do you have a link to the article?

see above; it's from another post a few days ago.

I mentioned the wireless bridge because I think they are looking for something that connects the TV to a network without running CAT5 cable from the pre-existing router to the TV. In any case, that is what I wanted, and a bridge meets the need.

the bars are less noticable, but there, when there's an image. doesn't seem to matter what the input is (dvd, cable, tivo, etc.)


Well, I couldn't see anything that would really prevent me from enjoying the TV, so I took the plunge and bought a 42LZ196 from CANEX. Should be here on Wednesday. I'll post when I get it.

Thanks guys and gals.

I mentioned the wireless bridge because I think they are looking for something that connects the TV to a network without running CAT5 cable from the pre-existing router to the TV. In any case, that is what I wanted, and a bridge meets the need.


I thought a bridge was strictly a USB to Ethernet thing? No? If there is a bridge that has antenna and the ability to link to my wireless, that would rock! DO you know of a good one? I hear the Linksys is a bit outdated.

I sure do... and I'm thinking about having the set replaced by another model. Even though I'm out of the 30 days return policie, I will fight my way to get another model. ( I thought of the Sharp 92, but I've read they also have the banding like the 62 model :( ) My question is: Why is there not A TV that have no display problem??? ... I mean, for like 3000$ can't they do something?

Returning to the middle bar, I'm starting to see more often (that's like this once you've seen it :S), on horizontal panning. I talked to my salesman and he told me to try and contact Toshiba on my side, but that he will help me if I'm not successfull.

Model I Have: 42LZ196

good luck with your tvs


As a matter of fact, there are TVs without display problems....they're called plasmas.

As a matter of fact, there are TVs without display problems....they're called plasmas.

Oh really?
Some of the 1900 posts here might not agree.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=9790618#post9790618

...On a side note, I am looking for a networking piece that will allow me to connect my tv to it and allow it to utilize my wireless network. Has anyone heard of such a piece, and if so, what is it called?
It is called a wireless ethernet bridge. There is one from Linksys (WET54G), but I'm sure you'll find it in other brands.

Oh really?
Some of the 1900 posts here might not agree.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=9790618#post9790618

Yup, totally agree. Despite what LWHJR1 thinks, plasmas are not perfect!

Plasmas - not perfect
LCD's - not perfect
CRT's - not perfect
Rear projections - not perfect
DLP's - not perfect

So I've had my 42HL196 for a couple days now and so far everything seems just perfect with it. Absolutely AMAZING TV. Just to say again, my TV has a December build date on it.

So I've had my 42HL196 for a couple days now and so far everything seems just perfect with it. Absolutely AMAZING TV. Just to say again, my TV has a December build date on it.

if i had to venture a guess, i would say that your set does have the ghost bars...you just haven't seen them yet. they're really not very obvious; they stand out when the image is panning like during sporting events.

how about posting a few photos? use the "freeze" button on the remote; take one of a hockey game showing the ice, a football game showing the field, something with a gray or bright blue background. post them in the photos forum and let us have a look.

if you really don't have them, congratulations; but don't count on it.

if i had to venture a guess, i would say that your set does have the ghost bars...you just haven't seen them yet. they're really not very obvious; they stand out when the image is panning like during sporting events.

how about posting a few photos? use the "freeze" button on the remote; take one of a hockey game showing the ice, a football game showing the field, something with a gray or bright blue background. post them in the photos forum and let us have a look.

if you really don't have them, congratulations; but don't count on it.

There seems to be 2 different issues we might all be considering the same. I don't have the ghost bars i was told by a tech, but have what he called a backlight shadow.

Just to repeat what I was told.

Ghost bars as we all call them are lighter shaded bars on the sides of the screen.
Backlight shadow which He called it is a greyish bar center screen that only shows itself on light backgrounds.

It might help if we said which one we're seeing.

Just thought it would help us all to know what everyone is describing.

As a matter of fact, there are TVs without display problems....they're called plasmas.


Oh, please.....you don't call burn in a problem?? And I don't care what they tell you, they have not eliminated the problem.

They all have their quirks, I would just much rather have a tv that doesn't weigh 90 some odd pounds and has a screen "protector" that looks like you can ice skate on it....personal preferece.

I just wanted to say "Thanks" to those that took the time to respond to my question. I have a 32hlv66 coming next week. Thanks again.

So I've had my 42HL196 for a couple days now and so far everything seems just perfect with it. Absolutely AMAZING TV. Just to say again, my TV has a December build date on it.

If you're happy with it don't go looking for problems just because someone else wants you to.

There seems to be 2 different issues we might all be considering the same. I don't have the ghost bars i was told by a tech, but have what he called a backlight shadow.

Just to repeat what I was told.

Ghost bars as we all call them are lighter shaded bars on the sides of the screen.
Backlight shadow which He called it is a greyish bar center screen that only shows itself on light backgrounds.

It might help if we said which one we're seeing.

Just thought it would help us all to know what everyone is describing.

So, how does one get rid of this "backlight" shadow?

So, how does one get rid of this "backlight" shadow?
You can't it's a problem in design.

Since September. No ghost bars. Still have not got HD. Standard cable is not too bad at 12 ft away.
I like it, but if I had waited a little longer, I would have got the new Sharp...

I finally jumped into the world of HDTV and purchased the 42HL196. After much reading and researching, this seemed to be the best value LCD. The production date is January 2007 and I haven't seen any evidence of ghost bars. Pictures are crisp and amazing. One issue I did notice today is I have a few "lit" pixels. I tried switching to various inputs and they all appear. There is one that is somewhat brighter than the others and is visible when I'm watching widescreen DVD because of it's location, so am thinking about exchanging it. Any others run into this problem.

Can the THINC be used to download the TVGUIDE?

I have a Bell Express VU system and prefer the TVGUIDE to the BELL GUIDE.

It should be the same as DISH NETWORK, if anyone is using that system.

Also, has anyone found the hidden menus that ericjung.***/toshiba was eluding to?

Thanks,

so far 42LZ196 awesome, still need to tweak it,any help is appreciated !!!!

Can the THINC be used to download the TVGUIDE?

I have a Bell Express VU system and prefer the TVGUIDE to the BELL GUIDE.

It should be the same as DISH NETWORK, if anyone is using that system.

Also, has anyone found the hidden menus that ericjung.***/toshiba was eluding to?

Thanks,

so far 42LZ196 awesome, still need to tweak it,any help is appreciated !!!!

not sure about the lz196, but on the hl196 and lx196 models, thinc can only be used for checking email, listening to mp3's (only the first 200) and looking at jpegs (only the first 1000). it doesn't seem like they put much thought into what could have been a really useful feature.

I have a brand new Toshiba 42hl196 with cablecard that loses all the channels after its turned off a few hours. Toshiba say it has the latest firmware and cant help. Cablevision has done all they can. I must return it to Best Buy unless someone can help. Do any of you have success with this or any similar model using a cable card?


I am having the exact same problem with my set 42LX196 I purchased just before the SuperBowl. Unfortunately I did not purchase the extended warranty but I can return in for any reason until the 30 days is up. Mine was taking 30 minutes every morning to eactivate the CableCard but then worked fine the rest of the day. I had Metrocast come out and they said it's probably the Monster surge protector. I tried sending an email to Toshiba's customer help as directed in the manual-what a waste of time that was simply telling me I must call instead. Closed on Sundays so I'll be calling tomorrow but for the 1st time it just deactivated itself in the middle of the day while I was watching a show and then took 15 minutes to reload. Any help?

I am having the exact same problem with my set 42LX196 I purchased just before the SuperBowl. Unfortunately I did not purchase the extended warranty but I can return in for any reason until the 30 days is up. Mine was taking 30 minutes every morning to eactivate the CableCard but then worked fine the rest of the day. I had Metrocast come out and they said it's probably the Monster surge protector. I tried sending an email to Toshiba's customer help as directed in the manual-what a waste of time that was simply telling me I must call instead. Closed on Sundays so I'll be calling tomorrow but for the 1st time it just deactivated itself in the middle of the day while I was watching a show and then took 15 minutes to reload. Any help?

the issue isn't with the set; a call to toshiba won't help. the problem is definitely with the cable card itself. this is not a perfect technology. comcast even recommended that i NOT have one installed. they said they're extremely tempermental (not comcast, the cable cards)...sometimes they work fine, sometimes not.

get back in touch with metrocast...they should (read: might) be able to fix this for you with a new card and and a re-activation.

i guarantee you that toshiba will not be able help with this issue.

hey, by the way: could you post your settings for your set?

thanks...

the issue isn't with the set; a call to toshiba won't help. the problem is definitely with the cable card itself. this is not a perfect technology. comcast even recommended that i NOT have one installed. they said they're extremely tempermental (not comcast, the cable cards)...sometimes they work fine, sometimes not.

get back in touch with metrocast...they should (read: might) be able to fix this for you with a new card and and a re-activation.

i guarantee you that toshiba will not be able help with this issue.

hey, by the way: could you post your settings for your set?

thanks...

This was my 2nd CableCard through MetroCast and already had them do 1 visit (after the guy said it could possibly be the surge protector I found that odd but unplugged it anyways just as a trial) I just got back from the store I bought it just to see if they had any advice (before reading your reply) or if they had heard of any problems with this model and they said CableCard issues happen with numerous TV's and to call Toshiba and they would have me enter some codes updating the system for it to work correctly and if that did not help would send someone out. So in your case when they told you not to use a CableCard you had to pay extra for the box? Also what settings are you you talking about? I left everything at default and it works great other than the ESPN bottom line gets blurry often. Thanks for your help and I'd love to hear from others as well if anyone else can share some advice.

Just got my 42LX196 and could not be happier with the picture

Just got my 42LX196 and could not be happier with the picture


Watch for so the called shadow bar center screen they all have it on white and light blue backgrounds. If you look you'll see it.

Also, has anyone found the hidden menus that ericjung.***/toshiba was eluding to?

To get to the hidden menu, open up the TV Guide on screen. Move the cursor over the word "Setup" then hit the down button. Then key in 753159852. The hidden screens will come up and you can navigate through them with the arrow keys.

Much of the info for the TV Guide on the Sony DHG DVRs is common to the TV Guide on the Toshiba TVs. See this resource for more info: http://www.spiffspace.com/sonydvr.html or browse the thread on AVS Forum under HDTV Recorders.

is the build date on the outside of the box ? guy at B.B. told me there were only letters on the box no date

You may be able to determine the build date from the serial number on the outside of the box? I am only aware of the date being stamped on the back of the actual set.

I am having the exact same problem with my set 42LX196 I purchased just before the SuperBowl. Unfortunately I did not purchase the extended warranty but I can return in for any reason until the 30 days is up. Mine was taking 30 minutes every morning to eactivate the CableCard but then worked fine the rest of the day. I had Metrocast come out and they said it's probably the Monster surge protector. I tried sending an email to Toshiba's customer help as directed in the manual-what a waste of time that was simply telling me I must call instead. Closed on Sundays so I'll be calling tomorrow but for the 1st time it just deactivated itself in the middle of the day while I was watching a show and then took 15 minutes to reload. Any help?

the problem is that the cablecard technology just plain SUCKS. do a google search for "cablecard problems" or "cablecard issues" and see how many hits you get.

here's one: http://cabletv.com/forum.php

do a search on the forums and you'll see that you don't have a unique problem.

just get a box until the cable companies resolve these issues.

Got my 42LZ196 yesterday and I'm so far really happy with it. Before I turned it on, I had a look at the back and saw I had an October build. :( However, after a little 360 and a movie, I'm quite pleased.

Does anyone have any info on calibrating it. I'm surprised and happy to see Toshiba put so many options into how to calibrate the colour, etc. on it, but it's way too far out of my scope. Any help would do. Thanks!

Got my 42LZ196 yesterday and I'm so far really happy with it. Before I turned it on, I had a look at the back and saw I had an October build. :( However, after a little 360 and a movie, I'm quite pleased.

Does anyone have any info on calibrating it. I'm surprised and happy to see Toshiba put so many options into how to calibrate the colour, etc. on it, but it's way too far out of my scope. Any help would do. Thanks!

all colors should be calibrated as close to 6500 deg. K as possible. this is best done professionally, but can be closely achieved with a calibration disc such as "video essentials".

all colors should be calibrated as close to 6500 deg. K as possible. this is best done professionally, but can be closely achieved with a calibration disc such as "video essentials".

I'm guessing I can get said disc at a place like Future Shop?

I tried FS and BB and a couple of high end stores around me and no luck. FS and BB had no idea what I was talking about.

Ended up ordering AVIA off of ebay for about half price.

I tried FS and BB and a couple of high end stores around me and no luck. FS and BB had no idea what I was talking about.

Ended up ordering AVIA off of ebay for about half price.

I looked at that, and a bunch of other ones, but personally, I see web sites that just published the finished adjustments to make and I'm hoping someone is willing to give them up. You know, free flow of information and such.

So if anyone has a sweet 42 or 47LZ196 calibrated to greatness, maybe I could get those settings off ya. Thanks!

Oh and from some trial and error, I've found out that the component inputs at 1080i overscan about 2 or 3 pixels. Just a little info for ya.

I looked at that, and a bunch of other ones, but personally, I see web sites that just published the finished adjustments to make and I'm hoping someone is willing to give them up. You know, free flow of information and such.

So if anyone has a sweet 42 or 47LZ196 calibrated to greatness, maybe I could get those settings off ya. Thanks!

Oh and from some trial and error, I've found out that the component inputs at 1080i overscan about 2 or 3 pixels. Just a little info for ya.

unless you really have a good feel for what needs to be done when you calibrate one of these units, you can end up with a suboptimal picture.

the easiest way for the average viewer to calibrate an HDTV is to use the THX optimzer that comes on every THX certified dvd.

see this site for more info and a detailed video on how to use it:

http://www.pcmag.com/article2/0,1895,1975752,00.asp

I tried FS and BB and a couple of high end stores around me and no luck. FS and BB had no idea what I was talking about.

Ended up ordering AVIA off of ebay for about half price.


You can rent them from netflix and Blockbuster online. Why buy them.

You can rent them from netflix and Blockbuster online. Why buy them.

Thanks GNelson, I'll go to blockbuster and see if they have one to rent.

I received my Toshiba 47LZ196 a little over a week ago. I am super pleased and can share some feedback.

I'll start off by saying this: I was originally totally set on getting a plasma due to the "ghosting effect" I had heard about with fast moving action scenes becoming blurred on early generation LCD HDTVs. Also the fact that plasmas were supposedly brighter and offered a richer color selection.

Sooo..... This is also the first TV I have ever purchased (all others were hand me downs). I researched HD TV's for over 9 months before buying one and was originally going to get a 42"; however I wanted to go larger to get true HD 1080i/1080p quality. I haven't done any tuning of the colors/picture at all and haven't read the entire directions either. I literally opened the box, placed it on the stand, hooked up the HDMI cable and turned the unit on and began viewing. I have about 20 hrs of total viewing with the TV thus far.

My setup:
I have an HK AVR-745 A/V receiver and Klipsch l/r/center speakers and some no name brand rear/side speakers (7.1 surround). Initially I borrowed a DVD player from a friend that was only displaying 480P and the resulting picture IMO was not that clear and actually rather pixelated/fuzzy. I wasn't overjoyed.

Last night I hooked up my friends XBox360 with an HD DVD player and was blown away at the 1080i picture quality. Blacks are nice, colors are awesome and the 47" screen is pretty massive for my needs. I love it!

My friend commented and said that it was the nicest picture quality he had ever seen. We watched King Kong in HD and he is a true audio/videophile. I agreed the picture quality was incredible. I'm getting an HD DVD player for sure.

Bottom line- With HD broadcasts picture quality is insanely nice. Anything less is ok and non HD TV channels are nothing to write home about. Overall I'm happy.

I will look up to see when my TV was made. I don't see any ghosting/side bar effects and/or any other symptoms or issues with it.

What settings is everybody using on the 42HL196? My buddy at work bought this TV and was looking for a few tips. Thanks in advance.

What settings is everybody using on the 42HL196? My buddy at work bought this TV and was looking for a few tips. Thanks in advance.

search this thread...settings have been posted before for this model.

plus, it really doesn't matter what other's settings are...it's all dependent upon viewing conditions, lighting in the room, what the primary input source is that you're watching (dvd, cable, etc.), and your personal viewing preferences.

your settings will be different from mine which will be different from the next guy's, etc., etc.

you never answered my post (#1220). any response as to why you think something is "fishy" with the regza line?

soory if this is a repost:

http://ultimateavmag.com/flatpaneldisplays/1206tosh47lz196/index.html

After reading and changing my mind over and over, I think I'm going to get the 42LZ196. It's half price at Tweeter. The only question is why are they dumping them?

After reading and changing my mind over and over, I think I'm going to get the 42LZ196. It's half price at Tweeter. The only question is why are they dumping them?

I read where Tweeter is only going to concentrate on high end equipment. They are not making money on the lower end items. They will let larger big box stores fight over lower end and less profitable items.
Is the half price deal an unadvertised special? their web site has no mention of this deal.

you never answered my post (#1220). any response as to why you think something is "fishy" with the regza line?

To answer your question, I have seen ghost bars and the center shadow bar as someone else called it on nearly every set I've sold ( HL and LX never carried the LZ) up till december 06. Since January Toshiba has made it nearly impossible for us to get any new models in. I know you'll say on-line sites have them but I believe it's old stock they had stored. Even if you go to toshiba's web site and try to get a set here from any long island seller you see a message saying check for availability. For some reason they are not shipping sets or if they are it's in very small numbers. I think they realized there is a problem with the 2006 line and are trying to ramp up the 2007 line as fast as possible.

isn't the LZ being discontinued for 2007, too?

To answer your question, I have seen ghost bars and the center shadow bar as someone else called it on nearly every set I've sold ( HL and LX never carried the LZ) up till december 06. Since January Toshiba has made it nearly impossible for us to get any new models in. I know you'll say on-line sites have them but I believe it's old stock they had stored. Even if you go to toshiba's web site and try to get a set here from any long island seller you see a message saying check for availability. For some reason they are not shipping sets or if they are it's in very small numbers. I think they realized there is a problem with the 2006 line and are trying to ramp up the 2007 line as fast as possible.

I have the 42HL196 with manufacture date of december 06 date. I have no bars or shadows. The pic is perfect. Now I am thinking I should buy an extended warranty just incase they show up later. Do these defects show up after extended use or is it a defect out of the box? I have had it for a couple of months with 2-3 hours of use each night and still a perfect pic.

Do these defects show up after extended use or is it a defect out of the box?
Everyone that has reported it has seen them out of the box. Glad you got a good set, enjoy!

I personally don't think extended warranties are worthwhile. IMO, any problem you are going to have that will be covered by the extended warranty is likely to happen while you are still covered under the manufacturer's warranty. However, large-screen LCDs are still somewhat unproven technology, so it isn't a terrible idea, if you like the extra piece of mind.

Everyone that has reported it has seen them out of the box. Glad you got a good set, enjoy!

I personally don't think extended warranties are worthwhile. IMO, any problem you are going to have that will be covered by the extended warranty is likely to happen while you are still covered under the manufacturer's warranty. However, large-screen LCDs are still somewhat unproven technology, so it isn't a terrible idea, if you like the extra piece of mind.

disagree. the extended warranty is almost a necessity when dealing with a technology as new as the large screen lcd panels.

who's to say that you won't have a problem on day 366, one day after your 1 year manufacturer's warranty expires?

the $150.00 or so for a 4 year extended warranty is a small price to pay for peace (not "piece") of mind.

the $150.00 or so for a 4 year extended warranty is a small price to pay for peace (not "piece") of mind.

Is there actually a saying, "piece of mind?" :p

Is there actually a saying, "piece of mind?" :p

yeah, when i was about 8 my mother used to say: "keep it up and i'll give you a piece of my mind!"

and of course i would think to myself "don't give away too much or there won't be anything left!"

Yesterday I received my 42LX196 from Toshiba. If you remember from an earlier post, this was a replacement for the 42HL196 (July 2006 build) that had the ghost bar issue. The LX has a build date of Sept. 2006, so I was a bit worried that I was still going to have the problem (or worse).

It's been set up now and I'm happy to report that the picture is absolutely perfect...no shadows, no ghosting, no bars, nothing but a superb image. This is on all inputs: cable, DVD, and TIVO.

The sound on this set is much "richer" than on the HL series and the case is a shiny black as opposed to the matt finish on the HL. It also had an advanced color management system to adjust the hue/tint on a number of different colors individually, but it seems like overkill to me...I've just left everything on default.

Anyway, I couldn't be happier with the new set and the way Toshiba customer service replaced the old model for me after 6 months. They really do stand behind their products.

It's funny though; my brain has been programmed to immediately look at the sides of the screen where the ghost bars were on the old set. I'm going to have to train myself to stop looking for something that's no longer there!

I also think we can put to rest the theory on this board that the ghost bar issue is related to manufacture date. I think it's just bad luck that some people have the problem.

The only problem with forums like this is that it teaches a lot of people to find flaws that most would probably have never noticed.
I wanted to pass along some more of my experience using the VGA input on my 42HL196. I have been able to set it up perfectly, with no over/underscan, at 1360x768. Using powerstrip, I had to make some very minor modifications to timings to center the image perfectly, but this only took about half hour of playing with it. Now, using Windows MCE, I am very pleased with the picture quality of this set. I could not use any higher res right now as it would cause stuttering video playback on HD content, this PC is not fast enough.
I am in the process of moving to a different city, so I have put off subscribing to HD, but will be in the next month or so. I can hardly wait to see what true 1080 looks like on this set.

As we are 44 pages into this thread, can we please not have any further mention of:
Ghost Bars
1080p vs 1080i
Manufacturers stated contrast ratios

its getting kind of old...

The only problem with forums like this is that it teaches a lot of people to find flaws that most would probably have never noticed...

As we are 44 pages into this thread, can we please not have any further mention of:
Ghost Bars
...

Well, the ghost bar thing is a major issue. People are getting together and talking about what they've done to resolve it. You might be bored, but for those of us with ghost bars, this is the ONLY place where we can get together and compare notes. Bluemax2's recent post is very informative and I personally appreciate him/her taking the time to write it.

I agree with the 1080p v. 1080i and contrast ratio points, though :)

Well, the ghost bar thing is a major issue. People are getting together and talking about what they've done to resolve it. You might be bored, but for those of us with ghost bars, this is the ONLY place where we can get together and compare notes. Bluemax2's recent post is very informative and I personally appreciate him/her taking the time to write it.

I agree with the 1080p v. 1080i and contrast ratio points, though :)

thank you. this is what these types of forums are about...people trying to help each other with problems such as this.

again, i have nothing but positive things to say about Toshiba after this ordeal. They really came through.

AND, in response to Warren_G's last post: people should be taught to look for things they wouldn't ordinarily notice. why should consumers be subjected to inferiorly manufactured products? i didn't see the issue on my original set until i read about it on this board; i'm glad i read about it and i'm glad i noticed it on my set. what if i had seen the problem after the warranty had run out?? i'd be SOL at that point and i wouldn't have been too happy. i think these types of forums are great for keeping manufacturers on their toes and getting people to realize that what they spent $2000.00 on may have some major flaws that need to be addressed. what better way to do that than have people with a common interest get together to discuss it?

Hi, I am planning to get my first LCD TV and I am planning to get a 42 inch. Currently I am doing a lot of research and read a lot of forum and I still cannot decide to take which one. Is there anyone can give me some advise? Also I notice the Sharp is a 1080p but how about the Toshiba one? Since I am going to use it for XBox 360, HD-DVD and PS3 in the near future, so I guess 1080p is necessary. Thanks.

Anyone else have an overscan when the component is in 1080i? I have a couple pixels missing from the bottom and the right. Any fix for that?

Hi, I am planning to get my first LCD TV and I am planning to get a 42 inch. Currently I am doing a lot of research and read a lot of forum and I still cannot decide to take which one. Is there anyone can give me some advise? Also I notice the Sharp is a 1080p but how about the Toshiba one? Since I am going to use it for XBox 360, HD-DVD and PS3 in the near future, so I guess 1080p is necessary. Thanks.

here we go again. there's no difference between 1080i and 1080p. read the many posts on this subject here on this board. also, do a google search and you'll come away with the answer you're looking for. this has been discussed "ad nauseum" here.

the only toshiba 42" lcd that will accept a native 1080p signal is the 42LZ196 model. their other models accept 1080i and upconvert to 1080p.

see: 42LZ196 (http://www.tacp.toshiba.com/televisions/product.asp?model=42lz196)

Anyone else have an overscan when the component is in 1080i? I have a couple pixels missing from the bottom and the right. Any fix for that?

is the pic size set for native, natural, or one of the theaterwide modes? if it's in native mode, try setting it natural or theaterwide 1.

i have this same issue except i get missing pixels along the very top of the image. if i change the pic size, it takes care of the problem.

hope this helps...

Hi, I am planning to get my first LCD TV and I am planning to get a 42 inch. Currently I am doing a lot of research and read a lot of forum and I still cannot decide to take which one. Is there anyone can give me some advise? Also I notice the Sharp is a 1080p but how about the Toshiba one? Since I am going to use it for XBox 360, HD-DVD and PS3 in the near future, so I guess 1080p is necessary. Thanks.


There is a post which states that the LZ model is the only one which accepts 1080p, which is correct, but I just wanted to add that the 1080p is with the hdmi port. The Xbox does not have a hdmi interface (yet), so it's 1080i over component (which looks awesome btw). There may be a way to get 1080p via the VGA port, but I'm satisfied with the current display, so I haven't pursued it. You can research that in the gaming forum.

Just wondering if anyone else has this set and what you think of it as far as picture settings and opinion`s. I just purchased one 2 days ago and the picture quality of HD material is outstanding,analog signals not bad either.Only complaint i have is the lack of another Antenna input,set only has one.Got any info?

here we go again. there's no difference between 1080i and 1080p. read the many posts on this subject here on this board. also, do a google search and you'll come away with the answer you're looking for. this has been discussed "ad nauseum" here.

the only toshiba 42" lcd that will accept a native 1080p signal is the 42LZ196 model. their other models accept 1080i and upconvert to 1080p.

see: 42LZ196 (http://www.tacp.toshiba.com/televisions/product.asp?model=42lz196)



There is a difference. On paper, they should offer more than twice the resolution of today's 1,280x720, or 720p, HDTVs, such as Samsung's HL-P5085W. 1080p convey all of the lines of resolution sequentially in a single pass, which makes for a smoother, cleaner image, especially with sports and other motion-intensive content. The quality of the source material you're viewing is very important, but so are screen size and how far you're sitting from your TV. Indeed, a video guru, Senior Editor David Katzmaier, reports that the extra sharpness afforded by the 1080p televisions he's seen is noticeable only when watching 1080i sources on a larger screen. Comparing a 50-inch 1080p DLP set to a 50-inch 720p DLP set, for example, he says you'll be hard-pressed to notice more detail with 1080i sources, especially from farther than 8 feet away. Even if you can see the difference, it will be much less obvious than, say, the difference between DVD and 720p HDTV.

In the future most DVD players will support true 1080P signal and it is likely most DVD’s distributed will be 1080P or Blueray. It’s only a matter of time.

You can read the full article at http://reviews.cnet.com/4520-6449_7-6361600-1.html

Fact is most people won’t be able to actually see the difference. However, if your like me and you fork out the extra bucks because it is advertised as 1080P then you expect to at least be able to receive and display a 1080P image. Period! Otherwise I consider it false advertising. My Toshiba actually has a excellent pic so I am satisfied, but I would at least like to know it is fully capable of doing everything I paid for even if I can’t see the difference.

I have the 42HL196 that is advertised as native 1080P. Is it suppose to support the 1080P signal through HDMI or up-convert to 1080P? The owners manual is unclear and I have not received a reply to my emails from Toshiba to clarify. I have it connected to a Toshiba DR-5 that up converts to 1080I but my TV still registers it at 1080I even when I change the pic size to native. So when does it actually up-convert to 1080P and how do I know its working?

is the pic size set for native, natural, or one of the theaterwide modes? if it's in native mode, try setting it natural or theaterwide 1.

i have this same issue except i get missing pixels along the very top of the image. if i change the pic size, it takes care of the problem.

hope this helps...

The issue then becomes pic quality. You will recieve the best pic quality in Natural or Native as the pic is not being stretched. I have the same problem in Native mode. I have a white line acroos the top of the screen. Which upsets me becouse the pic quality is excellent in this format although I don't see any difference compared to natural so I just use natural. Still it bothers me that I am not able to use this format becouse of a defect with the tv. After spending 2 grand I expect everthing to be perfect. Still, I dont have any ghost or shadow bars so I wont complain to much.

I have the 42HL196 that is advertised as native 1080P. Is it suppose to support the 1080P signal through HDMI or up-convert to 1080P? The owners manual is unclear and I have not received a reply to my emails from Toshiba to clarify. I have it connected to a Toshiba DR-5 that up converts to 1080I but my TV still registers it at 1080I even when I change the pic size to native. So when does it actually up-convert to 1080P and how do I know its working?

The 42HL196 has a native resolution of 1080p. This means it can ONLY display in 1080p. Any signal you give it will be displayed in 1080p. If you can see a picture, then whatever up-conversion and de-interlacing is required is working correctly.

However, if your like me and you fork out the extra bucks because it is advertised as 1080P then you expect to at least be able to receive and display a 1080P image. Period! Otherwise I consider it false advertising.

Then I have some bad news for you...

The 42HL196 does not accept a 1080p signal. It does accept 480i, 480p, 720p, and 1080i signals.

The 480i signal will be up-converted and de-interlaced to 1080p.

The 480p and 720p signals will be upconverted to 1080p, but they won't be de-interlaced as they are (by definition) not interlaced to start with.

The 1080i signal will be de-interlaced to 1080p. It will not be up-converted, as it already has the required 1080 lines of resolution.

Like Toshiba, several manufacturers sell televisions that use 1080p panels but do not accept 1080p inputs, and advertise them as 1080p televisions. I guess this is because technically they are 1080p televisions. And some sell both models that do accept 1080p signals and models that don't. For instance, the Toshiba 42LZ196 will accept a 1080p signal, the 42LX196 will not.

But the good news is that you say your Toshiba has an excellent picture and you are satisified. Sit back and enjoy it!

john a

The issue then becomes pic quality. You will recieve the best pic quality in Natural or Native as the pic is not being stretched. I have the same problem in Native mode. I have a white line acroos the top of the screen. Which upsets me becouse the pic quality is excellent in this format although I don't see any difference compared to natural so I just use natural. Still it bothers me that I am not able to use this format becouse of a defect with the tv. After spending 2 grand I expect everthing to be perfect. Still, I dont have any ghost or shadow bars so I wont complain to much.

I've seen this come up in several threads with several different TVs. It isn't a defect with your TV (at least that usually isn't the case with most TVs). The white line or noise at the top or side of the image in Native mode is noise that originates with the broadcaster. It seems that some broadcasters assume that all TVs overscan, so they don't send out a totally clean image. If you only get this on some channels, and if you never see it with a non-broadcast source (like a DVD player or game console) then this is what you are seeing. If you always see it with any 1080 source, then it probably is a TV problem.

john a

I have it connected to a Toshiba DR-5 that up converts to 1080I but my TV still registers it at 1080I even when I change the pic size to native. So when does it actually up-convert to 1080P and how do I know its working?
Which upsets me becouse the pic quality is excellent in this format although I don't see any difference compared to natural so I just use natural. Still it bothers me that I am not able to use this format becouse of a defect with the tv.

mrcapi, in your last two posts you've demonstrated some forgivable ignorance. You don't know the difference between upconverting and deinterlacing, you don't know that all LCDs are inherently progressive output, and you claim your TV is defective because you don't understand what the Native mode actually does. That isn't necessarily surprising, given that the technology is evolving and it can be hard for all of us to separate hype from fact. The problem that I have with your posts is that you don't seem to realize that you are spreading disinformation which will confuse an uninformed reader. If you don't understand something (like Native mode), google it or ask a question. Please don't post that your TV is defective just because you don't know what a feature is supposed to do.

Both of these issues have already been talked about on this thread, extensively. Learning to use the search tool correctly would've given you all the info you'd need without having to read through all 1,300+ posts. I'm not trying to pick on you specifically, we regular readers see this over and over again and it gets old (See Warren_G's post #1307).

Enjoy your new set. Hooray for no ghost bars; it seems like Toshiba might finally have that issue figured out.

There is a difference. On paper, they should offer more than twice the resolution of today's 1,280x720, or 720p, HDTVs, such as Samsung's HL-P5085W. 1080p convey all of the lines of resolution sequentially in a single pass, which makes for a smoother, cleaner image, especially with sports and other motion-intensive content. The quality of the source material you're viewing is very important, but so are screen size and how far you're sitting from your TV. Indeed, a video guru, Senior Editor David Katzmaier, reports that the extra sharpness afforded by the 1080p televisions he's seen is noticeable only when watching 1080i sources on a larger screen. Comparing a 50-inch 1080p DLP set to a 50-inch 720p DLP set, for example, he says you'll be hard-pressed to notice more detail with 1080i sources, especially from farther than 8 feet away. Even if you can see the difference, it will be much less obvious than, say, the difference between DVD and 720p HDTV.

In the future most DVD players will support true 1080P signal and it is likely most DVD’s distributed will be 1080P or Blueray. It’s only a matter of time.

You can read the full article at http://reviews.cnet.com/4520-6449_7-6361600-1.html

Fact is most people won’t be able to actually see the difference. However, if your like me and you fork out the extra bucks because it is advertised as 1080P then you expect to at least be able to receive and display a 1080P image. Period! Otherwise I consider it false advertising. My Toshiba actually has a excellent pic so I am satisfied, but I would at least like to know it is fully capable of doing everything I paid for even if I can’t see the difference.

I have the 42HL196 that is advertised as native 1080P. Is it suppose to support the 1080P signal through HDMI or up-convert to 1080P? The owners manual is unclear and I have not received a reply to my emails from Toshiba to clarify. I have it connected to a Toshiba DR-5 that up converts to 1080I but my TV still registers it at 1080I even when I change the pic size to native. So when does it actually up-convert to 1080P and how do I know its working?


Please note the following statements from this article:

1. "Why 1080p is theoretically better than 1080i" with the key word being "theoretically". Meaning "not applicable to real life applications". In other words, as the article states: "...DLP, LCoS, and LCD rear-projection, plasmas and LCD flat-panels, are inherently progressive in nature, so when the incoming source is interlaced, as 1080i is, they convert it to progressive scan for display."

i.e. what you're seeing is a 1080p image, regardless of the fact that the input is 1080i!!!!!

2. "What content is available in 1080p? Really, nothing at this point. Today's high-def broadcasts are done in either 1080i or 720p, and there's little or no chance they'll jump to 1080p any time soon because of bandwidth issues."

So, what DIFFERENCE does it make????

None. This has been discussed to DEATH on this forum...let's move on to something else; PLEASE??????

The 42HL196 has a native resolution of 1080p. This means it can ONLY display in 1080p. Any signal you give it will be displayed in 1080p. If you can see a picture, then whatever up-conversion and de-interlacing is required is working correctly.



Then I have some bad news for you...

The 42HL196 does not accept a 1080p signal. It does accept 480i, 480p, 720p, and 1080i signals.

The 480i signal will be up-converted and de-interlaced to 1080p.

The 480p and 720p signals will be upconverted to 1080p, but they won't be de-interlaced as they are (by definition) not interlaced to start with.

The 1080i signal will be de-interlaced to 1080p. It will not be up-converted, as it already has the required 1080 lines of resolution.

Like Toshiba, several manufacturers sell televisions that use 1080p panels but do not accept 1080p inputs, and advertise them as 1080p televisions. I guess this is because technically they are 1080p televisions. And some sell both models that do accept 1080p signals and models that don't. For instance, the Toshiba 42LZ196 will accept a 1080p signal, the 42LX196 will not.

But the good news is that you say your Toshiba has an excellent picture and you are satisified. Sit back and enjoy it!

john a

Agreed.

Please search google and/or this forum for details on the 1080i/1080p issue before displaying your rants and raves for all to see. If you have a picture, it IS 1080p regardless of what the input is. That's what this set does: it UPCONVERTS to 1080p. Since it displays 1080p, there's no problem with Toshiba advertising it as a 1080p set...that's exactly what it is: a 1080p image...there's no way around it.

If you want the details before you spent your money: go to their website, go to a store, ask questions, do some research. As with everything else in life...buyer beware. You get what you pay for...if you wanted a set with 1080p inputs, you should have bought a unit that accepts 1080p inputs...there are plenty on the market.

But you didn't, you bought one that only accepts 1080i inputs and displays a 1080p image. I guarantee you can't tell the difference BECAUSE THERE ISN'T ANY!!!!

Jeez, let's quit discussing this already!!!!

Hi im a new member, i recently purchased a Toshiba REGZA 32HLV66. And i've been reading around that the VGA only supports up to 1078x768 60Hz XGA( Other formats or non-standard signals will not be displayed ) . But i've been experimenting with this TV lately and I was able to use 1280x768 & 1360x768.
The image is still 4:3, but when using picture size to "Full", its perfect. I did adjust the image size and positions on the TV and on my Laptop video configurations to make the whole image appear.

Could this be that i got a lucky TV screen? I could test it on a identical 2nd TV unit, but family member won't let me =P

Thank you everyone for analyzing everything for me. So I guess it doesn't really matter for 1080i or 1080p now. Probably the only difference is the resolution. 1920 x 1080 :) . May be I can just save some bucks and get a better HT.

Thank you everyone for analyzing everything for me. So I guess it doesn't really matter for 1080i or 1080p now. Probably the only difference is the resolution. 1920 x 1080 :) . May be I can just save some bucks and get a better HT.


no, No, NO, and NO!!!!

1080i and 1080p ARE BOTH THE SAME RESOLUTION!!!! THEY'RE BOTH 1920 X 1080!!

FOR CRYIN' OUT LOUD; HOW MANY DIFFERENT WAYS CAN THIS BE SAID!!!!

SAME THING,SAME THING,SAME THING,SAME THING,SAME THING,SAME THING,SAME THING,SAME THING,SAME THING,SAME THING,SAME THING,SAME THING,SAME THING,SAME THING,SAME THING,SAME THING,SAME THING,SAME THING,SAME THING,SAME THING,SAME THING,SAME THING,SAME THING,SAME THING,SAME THING,SAME THING,SAME THING,SAME THING,SAME THING,SAME THING,SAME THING,SAME THING,SAME THING,SAME THING,SAME THING,SAME THING,SAME THING,SAME THING,SAME THING,SAME THING,SAME THING,SAME THING,SAME THING,SAME THING,SAME THING,SAME THING,SAME THING,SAME THING,SAME THING,SAME THING,SAME THING,SAME THING,SAME THING,SAME THING,SAME THING,SAME THING,SAME THING,SAME THING,SAME THING,SAME THING,SAME THING,SAME THING,SAME THING,SAME THING,SAME THING,SAME THING,SAME THING,SAME THING,SAME THING,SAME THING,SAME THING,SAME THING,SAME THING,SAME THING,SAME THING,SAME THING,SAME THING,SAME THING,SAME THING,SAME THING,SAME THING,SAME THING,SAME THING,SAME THING,SAME THING,SAME THING,SAME THING,SAME THING,SAME THING,SAME THING,SAME THING,SAME THING,SAME THING,SAME THING,SAME THING,SAME THING,SAME THING,SAME THING,SAME THING,SAME THING,SAME THING,SAME THING,SAME THING,SAME THING,SAME THING,SAME THING,SAME THING,SAME THING,SAME THING,SAME THING,SAME THING,SAME THING,SAME THING,SAME THING,SAME THING,SAME THING,SAME THING,SAME THING,SAME THING,SAME THING,SAME THING,SAME THING,SAME THING,SAME THING,SAME THING,SAME THING,SAME THING,SAME THING,SAME THING,SAME THING,SAME THING,SAME THING,SAME THING,SAME THING,SAME THING,SAME THING,SAME THING,SAME THING,SAME THING,SAME THING,SAME THING,SAME THING,SAME THING,SAME THING,SAME THING,SAME THING,SAME THING,SAME THING,SAME THING,SAME THING,SAME THING,SAME THING,SAME THING,SAME THING,SAME THING,SAME THING,SAME THING,SAME THING,SAME THING,SAME THING,SAME THING,SAME THING,SAME THING,SAME THING,SAME THING,SAME THING,SAME THING,SAME THING,SAME THING,SAME THING,SAME THING,SAME THING,SAME THING,SAME THING,SAME THING,SAME THING,SAME THING,SAME THING,SAME THING,SAME THING,SAME THING,SAME THING,SAME THING,SAME THING,SAME THING,SAME THING,SAME THING,SAME THING,SAME THING,SAME THING,SAME THING,SAME THING,SAME THING,SAME THING,SAME THING,SAME THING,SAME THING,SAME THING,SAME THING!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

ENOUGH ALREADY, THIS IS DRIVIN' ME NUTS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[QUOTE=crosby1]no, No, NO, and NO!!!!

1080i and 1080p ARE BOTH THE SAME RESOLUTION!!!! THEY'RE BOTH 1920 X 1080!!

FOR CRYIN' OUT LOUD; HOW MANY DIFFERENT WAYS CAN THIS BE SAID!!!!

Wow, What a cool time to jump into this forum. I'm going to piss crosby off royally.

Can I just say that that article is dated Oct 05. That's fairly old and they hadn't actually done any testing.

If anyone can say what pages in this thread (I REALLY don't want to troll through 44 pages) the RECENT discussions on 1080i/p are I will go and have a read myself.

Cheers

[QUOTE=crosby1]no, No, NO, and NO!!!!

1080i and 1080p ARE BOTH THE SAME RESOLUTION!!!! THEY'RE BOTH 1920 X 1080!!

FOR CRYIN' OUT LOUD; HOW MANY DIFFERENT WAYS CAN THIS BE SAID!!!!

Wow, What a cool time to jump into this forum. I'm going to piss crosby off royally.

Can I just say that that article is dated Oct 05. That's fairly old and they hadn't actually done any testing.

If anyone can say what pages in this thread (I REALLY don't want to troll through 44 pages) the RECENT discussions on 1080i/p are I will go and have a read myself.

Cheers

Here ya' go: maybe you and all the other "i want a 1080p television" whiny #***!!'s on this board can read this and then move on to something more interesting:

http://www.hometheatermag.com/gearworks/1106gear/

Pay particular attention to the 2nd paragraph which states "There Is No Difference Between 1080p and 1080i"

This is dated 11/06, 4 months ago, so maybe that's better for you than the article dated 10/05.

It's fairly technical, what with interlacing and de-interlacing, pulldown, scaling, Hz cycles, etc., etc. but maybe you can do some more research into what you obviously don't understand and quit bitchin' about it on this forum.

oh yeah, and if you had bothered to look, this article was already posted here a while back.

is the pic size set for native, natural, or one of the theaterwide modes? if it's in native mode, try setting it natural or theaterwide 1.

i have this same issue except i get missing pixels along the very top of the image. if i change the pic size, it takes care of the problem.

hope this helps...

I had it on native, which should display a native 1920 x 1080 fully, no? The overscan is just a random manafacturing hiccup?

I've been on the fence regarding the purchase of the 42LZ196 Toshiba.

But here's my question, and I hope I'm in the right forum.

In the advanced menu of the Toshiba LZ196 series, there are individual color adjustments of red, green, blue, yellow, and (I think) magenta. If I use the filters provided with DVE to calibrate the color and tint of the television, will adjusting the red, green, and blue colors individually give me more accurate colors? Also, if this method is successful, does anyone know where I could possibly obtain the yellow and magenta filters to calibrate them also?

About the toshiba 42HL196 Digital TV.
If you want "TV Guide +" programming a VCR don't buy it.
works great for reminders and watching.

I'm afraid I can't give this set very high marks because it falls short in some features.
(The first of these is the feature I was most interested in, the quality of the overall set is good enough for me to keep it.)

1) The "TV Guide" programming feature uses the internal tuner to provide the channel signal for the VCR, requiring the user to watch what they are recording.
This defeats the idea of watching one program and recording another. The set doesn't even program the VCR to line input so if it isn't set up you will get whatever the VCR happens to be tuned to. making the "TV guide" virtually useless for recording, unless you leave the set off most of the time. ( I.E. they don't actually set the channels on the VCR, only turn it on and press record.)

2) The "POP" feature might be nice but I wouldn't know because it requires 480p or higher on the component or HDMI inputs to show a second image making this feature much less useful.

3) The VCR input is connected to the output when selected providing a feedback path not very pleasant to watch while your tape is rewinding. maybe the tuner could have been directed to the outputs when VCR or VDR is selected as an input.

Other than those flaws (#1 being the most ridiculous) it is a good looking and easy to setup TV.

P.S. I was able to get the JPG and MP3 players to work with My Mac running OSX using "Windows" file sharing. You should keep the photos under about 2Meg pixels as they take a long time load.

Mike L.

MikeL54... I certainly don't mean to disparage your choice, but I don't think that many (if any) HD set manufacturers currently give much thought to VCR interoperability. I can't say that I've ever seen someone playback VHS tapes on their HDTVs, and I wouldn't think it would look too good at all. I think you'd be better off buying a cheap PVR of some sort, maybe a used ReplayTV, if you really want easy standard-def recordings.

Nathan

I've been on the fence regarding the purchase of the 42LZ196 Toshiba.

But here's my question, and I hope I'm in the right forum.

In the advanced menu of the Toshiba LZ196 series, there are individual color adjustments of red, green, blue, yellow, and (I think) magenta. If I use the filters provided with DVE to calibrate the color and tint of the television, will adjusting the red, green, and blue colors individually give me more accurate colors? Also, if this method is successful, does anyone know where I could possibly obtain the yellow and magenta filters to calibrate them also?

i had the same issue with my 42LX196 and after reading a few reviews of this set (most recently in the January 2007 issue of Home Theater Magazine) i came to the conclusion that it was unnecessary and perhaps out of my area of expertise to start fooling around with individual colors. it seems that an adjustment to one color will affect adjustments to other colors and you can get into an endless cycle of tweaking one color against another. they actually recommend that you have this set calibrated professionally.

this is really a great article; i couldn't find the back-issue in any stores around here, so i downloaded it from this site for $4.99(USD):

January 2007 Issue Home Theater Magazine (http://www.zinio.com/singles?issn=1096-3065&ns=zno)

you'll need the "Zinio" reader to view the magazine and unfortunately it doesn't support copy and paste. otherwise i'd post the article here for you. the reader download comes with the magazine once you purchase it and it's a quick and easy install.

i highly recommend this article to anyone considering a purchase of the 42LX or 42LZ196 sets. it's well worth the $4.99.

(and remember: the only difference between the LX and the LZ models is that the LZ will accept a native 1080p input).

I had it on native, which should display a native 1920 x 1080 fully, no? The overscan is just a random manafacturing hiccup?

try changing it to natural; on my set this gets rid of the slight overscan which i believe is a broadcast issue and not a manufacturing defect.

Thanks for clearing that for me again. I really get confused on that.

Thanks Bluemax2!

I'll ask around to see if any of my friends have that issue. If no one has it, I'll download it and try to make a decision. There's just so many choices.

try changing it to natural; on my set this gets rid of the slight overscan which i believe is a broadcast issue and not a manufacturing defect.

Also bluemax, which input do you get your overscan? Mine is Component 1.

Also bluemax, which input do you get your overscan? Mine is Component 1.

i get the overscan on hdmi 1 from my cable box. i don't have anything hooked up with component, so i can't comment on that input.

i get the overscan on hdmi 1 from my cable box. i don't have anything hooked up with component, so i can't comment on that input.

Interesting, I was hoping it was only a component thing. I'll try the different modes of viewing and get back to you. I don't have any HDMI outputs so I can't test that until I get my sat TV.

Interesting, I was hoping it was only a component thing. I'll try the different modes of viewing and get back to you. I don't have any HDMI outputs so I can't test that until I get my sat TV.

Natural mode always overscans by a few pixels, regardless of which input you are using. Native will not overscan, but Native isn't always available, depending on the incoming signal. I know Native can be used with any 1080 signal, but other resolutions may result in Native being grayed-out as an option.

If you are using Native mode and you are still seeing overscan, it might be your source. Some cable boxes or DVD players may automatically overscan?

I'm curious why you guys are so hung up on Native/Natural. Many manufacturers don't even offer a non-overscanning mode, because it tends to confuse the customer. That leaves HTPC users in the dust (search for "overscan" in the HTPC forums and you'll see all the headaches it causes), but nobody else would even notice. Content providers know overscan exists and they won't put anything that matters on the far reaches of the picture. The "director's vision" is still intact even if you are missing a few pixels on each side. Worse, occasionally a boom mic or something creeps into the overscanned area, which is a major distraction. I use Natural for all inputs except my computer, and I couldn't be happier with it.

Whatever you do, please don't complain to Toshiba about the signal line when watching broadcast TV in Native mode! They may decide it is easier to remove the Native feature altogether than to explain to skeptical customers that it is part of the source signal (which, if you don't know any better, sounds kinda fishy). :rolleyes:

Wondering if anyone else is experiencing the same problem. I have the second coax configured as cable, connected to a SAT receiver. The problem is it is constantly switching back to antenna. It might stay put for 2 days or 2 weeks but it is forever auto switching back.

If you are using Native mode and you are still seeing overscan, it might be your source. Some cable boxes or DVD players may automatically overscan?


Well, I did put it to Native and there is a slight overscan. Maybe it's the source, do you think the 360 overscans? I'm not too worried about the overscan, one pixel off the right side of a movie is unnoticable.

I did notice another annoying point, is there a way to set the theater mode and game mode preferences for an input, specifically the component for the 360, without them going back to default when you switch sources? It won't stay on Native or Game Mode 'on'.

Well, I did put it to Native and there is a slight overscan. Maybe it's the source, do you think the 360 overscans? I'm not too worried about the overscan, one pixel off the right side of a movie is unnoticable.

Weird. Could be the 360, maybe the TV's Native mode is a bit flaky. I probably wouldn't have noticed a one-pixel difference on mine, so maybe mine does it, too.


I did notice another annoying point, is there a way to set the theater mode and game mode preferences for an input, specifically the component for the 360, without them going back to default when you switch sources? It won't stay on Native or Game Mode 'on'.


For your other question, are you saying that when you set Game Mode and Native on, say Component 1, when you switch to HDMI they aren't on? Or when you switch and then switch back to component you lost your settings? The settings are specific to particular inputs, so if it is the first case, that is the normal behavior of the TV. In the second case, the game mode setting should stay when you switch back (I think). Try turning the "Auto Aspect Ratio" setting to off. That will at least take care of the Native/Natural switch.

"There Is No Difference Between 1080p and 1080i"

This is dated 11/06, 4 months ago, so maybe that's better for you than the article dated 10/05.

It's fairly technical, what with interlacing and de-interlacing, pulldown, scaling, Hz cycles, etc., etc. but maybe you can do some more research into what you obviously don't understand and quit bitchin' about it on this forum.

I agree that, all other things being equal, there is no difference between 1080p and 1080i. But those other things aren't equal, are they, and no TV has a perfect video processor.

The article you cite points out (and I quote): "...whether you output 1080i or 1080p, it is still inherently the same information. The only difference is in whether the player interlaces it and your TV deinterlaces it, or if the player just sends out the 1080p signal directly."

I'm no expert, but it seems to me that if your Toshiba's inputs won't accept 1080p, then you depend on its video processor to perform the necessary deinterlacing, pulldown and upscaling to bring the signal up to 1080p.

But suppose the player is better at this kind of processing than your Toshiba. Don't you lose out in terms of picture quality?

This is not an academic question for me. I want the highest-quality image. I'm seriously considering the Toshibas. But in my city of 500,000, the difference in price between an LX47 and an LZ47 is about $800 (essentially because there is only one small boutique offering the LZ).

1) The "TV Guide" programming feature uses the internal tuner to provide the channel signal for the VCR, requiring the user to watch what they are recording.
This defeats the idea of watching one program and recording another. The set doesn't even program the VCR to line input so if it isn't set up you will get whatever the VCR happens to be tuned to. making the "TV guide" virtually useless for recording, unless you leave the set off most of the time. ( I.E. they don't actually set the channels on the VCR, only turn it on and press record.)

2) The "POP" feature might be nice but I wouldn't know because it requires 480p or higher on the component or HDMI inputs to show a second image making this feature much less useful.

Mike, I agree that these design flaws are significant. I don't know what they were thinking. I own several TV's with Guide Plus and find it very convenient to let the TV control the VCR for recording. All the other TVs assume I want to use the VCR's tuner, which is correct. I wish Toshiba would have at least made this an option.

To everyone,

If you're still on the fence (as I am) regarding to purchase this monitor or not, here is a review from Home Theater Magazine. 42LX196 Review (http://hometheatermag.com/lcds/107tosh42lx/)

I hope this helps.

To everyone,

I'm writing you from Europe, PAL land. My intention was to buy a 42" REGZA 1920x1080 Full HD LCD TV.
The model # down here is 42WLG66, but I do not know the correspondent one for the US market. However, it has double HDMI, Active Vision, with Faroudja DCDi Cinema, Motion Adaptive De-Interlacing, and so on.

What I'm not able to understand is whether this TV set also accepts as input the 1080p flavor.

What make me confused is the fact that the official literature from Toshiba indicates always and only 720p and 1080i.
In addition, the user's manual indicates "HDMI™ is for use with a DVD, decoder or electrical equipment with digital audio and video output. It is designed for best performance with 1080i high-definition video signals but will also accept and display 480i, 480p, 576i, 576p and 720p signals."

I'm not an expert, and the question whether or not the 1080p signal can be fed into this TV might seem a bit stupid for you guys, but yur comments would be of great help to me in making my decision.

Have a nice day,

Graziano.

What make me confused is the fact that the official literature from Toshiba indicates always and only 720p and 1080i.

In addition, the user's manual indicates "HDMI™ is for use with a DVD, decoder or electrical equipment with digital audio and video output. It is designed for best performance with 1080i high-definition video signals but will also accept and display 480i, 480p, 576i, 576p and 720p signals."

Stateside, there are 3 different lines of Regzas (HL, LX, and LZ), and only one accepts 1080p input. Unless the promotional material explicitly states that it accepts 1080p, it probably maxes out at 1080i. From what you've written, the WLG model is almost certainly 1080i.

I'm not an expert, and the question whether or not the 1080p signal can be fed into this TV might seem a bit stupid for you guys, but yur comments would be of great help to me in making my decision.



Only the "Cinema Series Pro" line accepts 1080p and only over HDMI. Component accepts up to 1080i.

Stateside, there are 3 different lines of Regzas (HL, LX, and LZ), and only one accepts 1080p input. Unless the promotional material explicitly states that it accepts 1080p, it probably maxes out at 1080i. From what you've written, the WLG model is almost certainly 1080i.

Thanks mdr25.

If a REGZA Full HD TV does not accept the 1080p signal, what happen to the image processing if you want to play a 1080p 24/30FPS by means of a camcorder (via HDMI), or enjoy the 1080p from another source i.e. HD-DVD or Blue Ray?

In addition, would you mind explaining me the pros (I don't think there are any cons) in having a 1080p input capable TV?

With it, I'll do a very normal usage: up-scaling view of my DVD collection; PS3 gaming; playing my 1080p 25FPS footage, both as HD-DVD by means of the Toshiba HD-DVD 1080p (BTW, which I've to buy together with the REGZA), and as direct playing via camcorder HDMI.

Thanks again,

Graziano.

If a REGZA Full HD TV does not accept the 1080p signal, what happen to the image processing if you want to play a 1080p 24/30FPS by means of a camcorder (via HDMI), or enjoy the 1080p from another source i.e. HD-DVD or Blue Ray?

I believe the screen will just be blank. I'm pretty sure video sources that output 1080p will also output 1080i, so it shouldn't be a problem.


In addition, would you mind explaining me the pros (I don't think there are any cons) in having a 1080p input capable TV?

Well, there's a big can of worms. Read back over the last few pages of posts in this thread and you'll find various opinions.

Only the "Cinema Series Pro" line accepts 1080p and only over HDMI. Component accepts up to 1080i.

Thanks Larry.

I got it: 42LZ196 is the model # in Europe for the 42" Cinema Series Pro. It comes with a 12 bits image processing, 8-seconds RT. It accepts the 1080p signal, without any image treatment or conversion.

They have not published the price in Euros yet, however there is an indication of what the reccomended price in the US is: 3,400$ (which converted in Euros, is more or less double the price I was offered for the REGZA 42WLG).

Well, now the picture is clear to me.

Yet, I'd appreciate a feedback on my earlier post, so that it would be easier for me the comparison between the two options: REGZA with no 1080p @ 1,700$, or with it @ 3,400$. The difference impacts a lot the ROI.

Graziano.

Hello everyone. Looking forward to hearning back from you all..

Anyway I'll get straight to it. I am at a crossroad now. I have been looking at LCD for months now. I just happened to stumble across the Toshiba 37HL66 a couple of weeks back and have been reading up on it. What attracted me to it is its dimensions as I looking to fit it in my NYC apartment. The width of it at being just over 36 inches seemed to be a perfect fit for the space I have.

Well here is it as the 37HL67 is on it way to the market, with supposely better speaks..what is your opinion should I get the 37HL66 or pre-order the 37HL67 and wait a little longer..from what I have read the expected release date of the 37HL67 is march/april 2007.

Hi, I wonder is there anyone know the specification for this Toshiba model. It only said the resolution is 720p, so I am wondering is it going to support 1080i as well.

For your other question, are you saying that when you set Game Mode and Native on, say Component 1, when you switch to HDMI they aren't on? Or when you switch and then switch back to component you lost your settings? The settings are specific to particular inputs, so if it is the first case, that is the normal behavior of the TV. In the second case, the game mode setting should stay when you switch back (I think). Try turning the "Auto Aspect Ratio" setting to off. That will at least take care of the Native/Natural switch.

I'll try and describe this better. I have the 360 on component 1. The only other input I have hooked up is cable through ANT1. When I have the 360 on and the TV is on it's input, I have to set Game Mode and Theatre Mode manually (defaults to 'Off' and 'Natural' respectively). When they are set, if I change the input, in my case, just change the channel thus switching to cable, switch back to the 360 (which is on component remember), the settings revert back to default (Off, Natural, etc.). Then I have to set them again to Native and Game Mode 'On'. Any ideas?

Hi, I wonder is there anyone know the specification for this Toshiba model. It only said the resolution is 720p, so I am wondering is it going to support 1080i as well.

OK, here's a question for you:

If the television specifications state that the resolution is 720p, how can it possibly support 1080i as well? How in the world would that one be pulled off?!?!?

That's like saying "my car is a Ford, do you think it will drive like a Lamborghini?"

Not to be rude, but you obviously need to do quite a bit of research on the world of HDTV before you post on this board.

Hi, I wonder is there anyone know the specification for this Toshiba model. It only said the resolution is 720p, so I am wondering is it going to support 1080i as well.

All resolutions, including 1080i, will be scaled to 720p. I don't know if that's what you mean by 'support'.

[QUOTE=glagori]I'd appreciate a feedback on my earlier post, so that it would be easier for me the comparison between the two options: REGZA with no 1080p @ 1,700$, or with it @ 3,400$."

I'd lean toward the LZ if I were going to keep the set for a long time. The reason is that in the next few years, there will be more and more DVD players that are better at scaling, deinterlacing and pulldown than the Toshiba. If you have 1080p input, you'll be able to take full advantage of the improvement in picture quality.

A recent helpful article on 1080i vs. 1080p can be found at: http://hometheater.about.com/od/televisionbasics/qt/1080ivs1080p.htm

Hello everyone. Looking forward to hearning back from you all..

Anyway I'll get straight to it. I am at a crossroad now. I have been looking at LCD for months now. I just happened to stumble across the Toshiba 37HL66 a couple of weeks back and have been reading up on it. What attracted me to it is its dimensions as I looking to fit it in my NYC apartment. The width of it at being just over 36 inches seemed to be a perfect fit for the space I have.

Well here is it as the 37HL67 is on it way to the market, with supposely better speaks..what is your opinion should I get the 37HL66 or pre-order the 37HL67 and wait a little longer..from what I have read the expected release date of the 37HL67 is march/april 2007.

Take a look at trustedreviews.com & do a search on "regzas" It looks like the regzas that have been on sale in the U.K. for the last 9 months are soon to come to the U.S. as 2007 models.

The 2006 32" U.K. Regza has higher claimed contrast, 3 HDMI inputs, auto backlight control.

Sounds like the same specs as the soon to be availabe 2007 32HL67. Im waiting for the 32HL67 to go on sale here.

Not to be rude, but you obviously need to do quite a bit of research on the world of HDTV before you post on this board.

This a public forum not a post-secondary institutions. You don't need qualifications to ask a question.

You need auto-aspect off to have an input save the picture mode. However, it stills doesn't keep game mode on a specific input? Possible?

Take a look at trustedreviews.com & do a search on "regzas" It looks like the regzas that have been on sale in the U.K. for the last 9 months are soon to come to the U.S. as 2007 models.

They look to me like the 2006 US models.

They look to me like the 2006 US models.

The 2006 UK 32 inch Regza has 3 HDMI inputs.

The 2006 US 32 inch Regza (32HL66)has one HDMI input

In 4 or 5 weeks the 2007 US 32 inch Regza (32HL67) will become available & it will also have 3 HDMI inputs.

I'm in a fringe area -63 miles from the transmitters- & if the Regza tuner wont pull in a good signal, I have an LG LST-4200 set top tuner that will plug in to one of the HDMI's. The weak signal is no problem for the LG.

And an upconvert DVD recorder will plug into another HDMI.

The extra HDMI inputs are why i'm waiting to order the 2007 model.

They look to me like the 2006 US models.

The European Toshiba LCD range does not dovetail the features on the US verison, although there are pointers.

For example the European 42WLT68 is the newest 42" version (3 HDMI's) with M100 (100/120Hz) processing, and 1080p50/60 input over HDMI, BUT its a 1366x768 panel.

Whereas the older 42/47WLT66 (2 HDMI's) is a 1920x1080 panel, it does not have M100 processing, and cannot accept 1080p, but does accept 1080i over component and HDMI, and has "Exact scan" Mode to de-interlace 1080i sources "perfectly" for 1920x1080 panel........a bit like the US HL range.

Currently no european Toshiba 1920x1080 LCD's can accept 1080p, let alone display it pixel mapped over VGA, component, and HDMI at 48Hz, 50Hz and 60Hz......which would be nice.

As a Brit Toshiba fan I trawl the US forums hoping to see features which may trickle down to the European models. And 1080p24 to 120Hz display would be worth saving up for.

Hello everyone. Looking forward to hearning back from you all..

Anyway I'll get straight to it. I am at a crossroad now. I have been looking at LCD for months now. I just happened to stumble across the Toshiba 37HL66 a couple of weeks back and have been reading up on it. What attracted me to it is its dimensions as I looking to fit it in my NYC apartment. The width of it at being just over 36 inches seemed to be a perfect fit for the space I have.

Well here is it as the 37HL67 is on it way to the market, with supposely better speaks..what is your opinion should I get the 37HL66 or pre-order the 37HL67 and wait a little longer..from what I have read the expected release date of the 37HL67 is march/april 2007.

Consumer Reports Mar Issue rates it as a "Best Buy". If I remember right, only 12 out of 96 flat panels was given this rating.

However, I would wait for the '07 model and buy it around Nov when they discount for the holiday season.

This a public forum not a post-secondary institutions. You don't need qualifications to ask a question.


no, but some things should be obvious. like if the specs say 720p, that would mean to me (and to my 5 year old) that it doesn't display in 1080i.

no, but some things should be obvious. like if the specs say 720p, that would mean to me (and to my 5 year old) that it doesn't display in 1080i.

There many things that are really murky to me (and probably to you) that are obvious to other people on these boards. I hope they answer my questions with the same civility I answer questions from others about things that are "obvious" to me.

Is it just me or does high gloss black finish on TVs look distracting and annoying? I haven't owned one so I don't know if I would get used to it, but I find it distracting while viewing TV with this type of finish in the stores.

[QUOTE=jwright] I'd lean toward the LZ if I were going to keep the set for a long time. The reason is that in the next few years, there will be more and more DVD players that are better at scaling, deinterlacing and pulldown than the Toshiba. If you have 1080p input, you'll be able to take full advantage of the improvement in picture quality.


Thanks jwright.

In fact, I've decided for the same option, over the weekend. The problem is that no Regza with 1080p input capability is currently available in Europe, so as pointed out by another member (RockySpieler), as well.

The LZ series was announced in a press release in November, but never hit the stores. What do they think about this part of the world? We are not a third world market!

My disappointment is pushing me toward the Sharp 42XD1 series, which is available in stores across Europe. Has any one of you guys made an apple to apple comparison between the Regzas and this Sharp during his purchasing, that can be quickly reported to me in this forum?

Obviously, I'm going to post in the Sharp LCD thread, as well.

Have a nice day,

Graziano.

Hello everyone,

I really need some help from you guys, I recently purchased a Toshiba 32" 32HLV66 LCD. The unit has worked fine until I noticed that every once and a while the whole image takes on a pink/magenta ish burst for a second or two then goes away. Can anyone help me troubleshoot this?

Thanks!!

To answer your question, I have seen ghost bars and the center shadow bar as someone else called it on nearly every set I've sold ( HL and LX never carried the LZ) up till december 06. Since January Toshiba has made it nearly impossible for us to get any new models in. I know you'll say on-line sites have them but I believe it's old stock they had stored. Even if you go to toshiba's web site and try to get a set here from any long island seller you see a message saying check for availability. For some reason they are not shipping sets or if they are it's in very small numbers. I think they realized there is a problem with the 2006 line and are trying to ramp up the 2007 line as fast as possible.

Well...its bee almost a month now, and over the weekend I spotted them....ALL of them....Center, 3 to 4 bars on the right and 3 to 4 ghost bars on the left....I am rather disappointed.....December Build date too!!!


I am now contimplating whether I should have them come and swap it out for me....I dunno...will I run into the issue all over again??

Pretty heartbreaking!

Is it just me or does high gloss black finish on TVs look distracting and annoying? I haven't owned one so I don't know if I would get used to it, but I find it distracting while viewing TV with this type of finish in the stores.

Hasn't ever been a problem for me. Just remember that the lighting in most stores/showrooms is far different than you would have at home. Plus IMHO it looks better when the set is off than a matte bezel.

Yep, I agree with GTZ that the glossy bezels look better when the set is off.

But when it's on, I much prefer a matte bezel. The non-glare, non-reflective screen was one of the appealing features of LCD. IMHO, reflections around the screen spoil it.

Of course, whether it's shiny or matte, black is much much better than silver! Thank goodness in home theater and A/V, black is back.

john a

The problem is that no Regza with 1080p input capability is currently available in Europe, so as pointed out by another member (RockySpieler), as well.

The LZ series was announced in a press release in November, but never hit the stores. What do they think about this part of the world? We are not a third world market!

My disappointment is pushing me toward the Sharp 42XD1 series, which is available in stores across Europe. Has any one of you guys made an apple to apple comparison between the Regzas and this Sharp during his purchasing, that can be quickly reported to me in this forum?

In my Canadian city of about half a million, a 47" Toshiba LZ costs about $1,000 more than a 46" Sharp D62U, essentially because the Toshiba is being sold in a small boutique outlet.

I'm sure you'll find people on the Sharp thread prepared to compare the two TVs. Here are the URLs for reviews of the Toshiba (http://ultimateavmag.com/flatpaneldisplays/1206tosh47lz196/) and the Sharp (http://www.guidetohometheater.com/flatpaneldisplays/207sharp52d62/) by the same reviewer in Ultimate AV magazine.

But of course everyone has their own opinion. :)

I purchased the 37HLV66 about a month ago. Last week I got a Wii and plugged it in (composite video that came with it) to input 3 (if that matters). Now when I watch my cable box (input 6 component video) with 4:3 content that I leave unstretched there are gray bars on either side. Last week before the Wii these bars were black so they blend with the frame and you hardly notice them. These gray ones stick out like sore thumbs. I dont know if it was the Wii for sure, maybe I changed an option on accident but none of the options I found in the menue could change it. When I watch HD content there are no bars because it is stretched. When I bypass the box and plug the cable coax directly into the TV (input 0) the bars are black again. When I turn off the box and the whole screen is black I can see where the 4:3 box is and then there are clearly bars on the side that are a slightly different black (like when you watch 4:3 unstretched and a commercial comes on trying to mimic letterbox but sometimes the the blacks dont quite match).

Ive tried to be as thorough as possible. Please anyone with info or a similar problem or idea please let me know what to do. thanks

ds

Now when I watch my cable box (input 6 component video) with 4:3 content that I leave unstretched there are gray bars on either side...

Someone mentioned gray vertical bars a while ago on this thread, and it ended up being their cable box, not the TV. It is possible that the cable box is always outputting a widescreen signal, and that the vertical bars it produces for 4:3 content are gray.

You might be able to verify this by setting the TV's aspect ratio to "FULL". If the 4:3 image gets stretched out to fill the screen, the incoming signal is 4:3. If it doesn't get stretched (or "FULL" isn't selectable), the incoming signal is 16:9.

Thanks for the help, unfortunately it wasn't the solution I was looking for. That removes the bars, but now the content is stretched. I want it in the natural proportions. I am pretty sure it is the TV adding the gray bars because between channels when the screen used to go black it now goes gray. Last week it was black between channels and I could watch 4:3 unstretched with black side bars. Anyone else have any ideas?

what box do you have?

Thanks for the help, unfortunately it wasn't the solution I was looking for. That removes the bars, but now the content is stretched. I want it in the natural proportions. I am pretty sure it is the TV adding the gray bars because between channels when the screen used to go black it now goes gray. Last week it was black between channels and I could watch 4:3 unstretched with black side bars. Anyone else have any ideas?

Usually, there is a setting on the cable box allowing to use different shades of grey or black for those bars. I use a Scientific Atlanta box and I can set the bars to be 2 shades of grey or black. Everytime the cable company remotly updates the firmware on the box, the bars defaults back to light grey.

I do not no which box you are using but there should be on option in the settings to change the color back to black.

its a pace, i cant find any model number or anything. I got it when I got the TV about a month ago and Ive never seen gray bars until now. I cant find that option on the box. but ill look harder now

SOLVED!!!
i found the color bar options buried somewhere in a super top secret menu
thanks for all the help

SOLVED!!!
i found the color bar options buried somewhere in a super top secret menu
thanks for all the help
Just for clarification, that super top secret menu was for the cable box, not the TV, right?

hey i need some help. i'm getting pretty frustrated. i own the 32hlv66 and it's been great up until a couple weeks ago. i'm using the QAM tuner for my digital cable in our bedroom so i don't need a box. so what i did was scan all the channels, found my local hd channels, nbc, abc, cbs, fox, etc. and plugged them into the favorites menu. it's cool, because all you have to do is hit the down or up arrow to scroll through your favorites and you don't have to remember the 85-1, or 85-3, etc. well, in theory it should continue to work, but it does not. for the second time in two weeks i've lost all but a couple of the 6 or 7 channels i have in there. not only that, but when i manually enter the channel number it either teleports me to 115-1, or it comes up and says channel is encrypted. what gives? i called the cable company and they said that for the most part, the frequencies of those channels rarely changes. he thought i should contact the tv manufacturer, so here i am. any suggestions?

..for the second time in two weeks i've lost all but a couple of the 6 or 7 channels i have in there...

It is almost certainly the cable company. Comcast recently remapped the channels where I live, and I had to go through and manually remove all the redundant SD channels again. On the plus side, they finally mapped the HD channels to something that makes sense (the HD feed for channel 7 is now on 7-1, instead 86-2). In six months since I've had an HDTV, this is the first time they've remapped the channels, so it doesn't seem to be a regular thing. It is a pain, though.

Check the thread for your local provider, maybe other people can confirm that the channels have been reassigned. (Just peaked at the posts you made in the Seattle thread and it seems like that's the case.)

I bought the Rezga 42" TV two months ago. It did not work when I got it. I contacted Toshiba. Two months later they tell me no replacement parts have been made for this tv yet! What! I am still waiting on a replacement. Buyers, you have been warned! :mad:

I you only bought it 2 months ago why not take it back to where you got it from and ask/demand for a replacement or exchange?

Hi im a new member, i recently purchased a Toshiba REGZA 32HLV66. And i've been reading around that the VGA only supports up to 1078x768 60Hz XGA( Other formats or non-standard signals will not be displayed ) . But i've been experimenting with this TV lately and I was able to use 1280x768 & 1360x768.
The image is still 4:3, but when using picture size to "Full", its perfect. I did adjust the image size and positions on the TV and on my Laptop video configurations to make the whole image appear.

Could this be that i got a lucky TV screen? I could test it on a identical 2nd TV unit, but family member won't let me =P

i have a 42hl196. in the manual, it states i can use vga, svga, and xga to connect to a pc. however, i've seen on many online specs sheet this set also supports sxga. anyone using xga or sxga to connect to a pc? will it even make a difference in resolution?

first time poster to this forum....
i'll be picking my 42HL196, this wednesday.
Video Only, here in clackamas,oregon did not have any, so they called down to eugene and is having one shipped up here for my in-store pick-up on wednesday...i'll be charged for an open-box item, but it will actually be factory sealed and it appears to be their last one. i know i am getting a good deal...i noticed that posting prices is not ok.

this will be my first lcd tv. i am also picking up a toshiba sd-5000 upconverting dvd player.
it won't be until saturday that i will get a real chance to dive into it. i am excited

The store I'm a saleman at is not getting anymore deliverys of 2006 Toshiba 42 inch or larger sets. I guess they realized what a disaster the line was and decided to ramp up the 07 line. I spoke to another person at a larger electronics chain in new york and they also said they are not getting anymore 42 inch toshiba 06 sets.

as of right now, i am very happy with my 42HL196.
the picture is pretty damn good, so far no problems

I am too lazy to read all post on this thread, so is the 47LX196 is a good set of TV? does it do 1:1 mapping on hdmi & VGA input? will it do 1920x1080 on VGA input (I know Sharp didn't so I bypass Sharp, well they even dun have VGA input). Will it have the Threatre1 zoom mode for SD signal like the DLP did?

I am getting a 42HL67 when it comes in, probably next week, and I have a few questions for people with experience with last year's model.

Do I need an upconvert DVD player, or is the built in scaler on these TVs good? (Assuming the 2007s are similar quality to the 2006 42/37HL66.)

I was reading somewhere about Upscale DVD players causing color problems because the TV regnizes the signal as HD rather than SD, and there are two sperate color pallets for HD and SD, and DVDs are supposed to be rendered in the SD pallet. The article reccomended finding a TV where you can manually select HD or SD color pallet for each input. Do the Toshibas have this? (Once again, I realize that this will probably be based on experience with the 06 models.)


Thanks!

I was wondering if I may receive some feedback from anyone that currently has a 37HL67 or the 42". I would like to receive input since it is a new product that we are thinking of offering :) Thank you!

Do I need an upconvert DVD player, or is the built in scaler on these TVs good? (Assuming the 2007s are similar quality to the 2006 42/37HL66.)

Thanks!

note - there was no 42HL66

If you look at the specs for the Regzas with onboard DVD players they are upconverting.

I have a Toshiba progressive scan DVD player & when I get my 37hl67 i'm going to plug it in & see how the PQ is, then buy an upconvert or not DVD recorder.

hey quick question

i bought a 32hlv66 about 45 days ago and have been having some problems with audio syncing correctly with my QAM tuner. the picture is great, but on some programing the audio is very poorly synced with the picture. anybody else having this problem? i've tried everything i can think of, but am still noticing it with about 70-80% of all programming. i am not using a cable box, i'm only using the cable input/QAM tuner.

anybody have any thoughts? is there a service menu or something i could be missing here? thanks in adance

i bought a 32hlv66 about 45 days ago and have been having some problems with audio syncing correctly with my QAM tuner.
Mine seems to go out of synch very slowly, so it is synched up when I first start watching something, but over the course of an hour it might have drifted out of synch by half a second or so. If I change the channel and change back, it is fine. It doesn't happen all the time, maybe just particular channels...I'm not sure. I usually channel surf compulsively and/or watch through my DVR, so I don't run into it that much. I assumed it had something to do with an advanced setting being a bit buggy, like stable sound or game mode. Try messing around with those.

My local electronics store says the new 42 inch lcd should be in within a few weeks.model #42HL167. Here's the stats. I guess thats why the 06 models vanished so fast.

» 42" widescreen HDTV (16:9 aspect ratio)
» built-in digital (ATSC) and analog (NTSC) tuners for over-the-air TV broadcasts (antenna required)
» built-in QAM cable TV tuner receives unscrambled programs without a set-top box (cable service required)
» CineSpeed™ LCD panel (1920 x 1080 pixels)
» 8-millisecond pixel response time
» 176°(H) x 176°(V) viewing angle
» ColorBurst™ wide-range fluorescent backlight for more accurate and vibrant colors
» DynaLight™ dynamic backlighting for improved contrast and black level
» PixelPure™ 3G 14-bit digital video processing
» built-in stereo speakers (10 watts x 2)
» multibrand remote control
» picture settings memory for each video input
» 7 A/V inputs, including:
• 2 composite video (1 rear, 1 side)
• 1 S-video
• 2 component video (accepts signals up to 1080i)
• 3 HDMI v1.3 digital audio/video inputs (accepts signals up to 1080p)
» PC input: analog RGB (D-Sub 15-pin) — accepts signals up to 1080p
» RF input for antenna/cable signals
» optical digital audio output for Dolby® Digital

tried all of those suggestions. are you using QAM at all or just your DVR? at first i thought it was just HD, but it can happen with all resolutions and all channels. it doesn't happen all the time, but i'd say it's definitely the majority. i'm regretting not getting a panel with cablecard now. i had heard the QAM tuner in the tosh's was an excellent one and for video sake and channel pull-itdown is, but the audio sync even drives my wife crazy and that's saying a lot. i'm hoping it is corrected with a move, but i'm a little skeptical. if anybody has any suggestions, i'd sure appreciate it. i've searched all over and i see tons of lip sync issues, but none releated specifically to this panel.

Okay since everyone is talking abou the HL196 i need to ask something.

I have the 37HL86 were it doesn't have the 14bit processor. how bad is that for SD quality?! is it worth the $600 extra to get the 14bit processor?

My local electronics store says the new 42 inch lcd should be in within a few weeks.model #42HL167. Here's the stats. I guess thats why the 06 models vanished so fast.

» 42" widescreen HDTV (16:9 aspect ratio)
» built-in digital (ATSC) and analog (NTSC) tuners for over-the-air TV broadcasts (antenna required)
» built-in QAM cable TV tuner receives unscrambled programs without a set-top box (cable service required)
» CineSpeed™ LCD panel (1920 x 1080 pixels)
» 8-millisecond pixel response time
» 176°(H) x 176°(V) viewing angle
» ColorBurst™ wide-range fluorescent backlight for more accurate and vibrant colors
» DynaLight™ dynamic backlighting for improved contrast and black level
» PixelPure™ 3G 14-bit digital video processing
» built-in stereo speakers (10 watts x 2)
» multibrand remote control
» picture settings memory for each video input
» 7 A/V inputs, including:
• 2 composite video (1 rear, 1 side)
• 1 S-video
• 2 component video (accepts signals up to 1080i)
• 3 HDMI v1.3 digital audio/video inputs (accepts signals up to 1080p)
» PC input: analog RGB (D-Sub 15-pin) — accepts signals up to 1080p
» RF input for antenna/cable signals
» optical digital audio output for Dolby® Digital

Did he give you the MSRP? I'm just wondering how much more it will be than the new 37". Along those lines, does anyone have the 37HL67 yet? I really need a good review, including any sound synching problems.

Looking at Toshiba's website, they have dropped the MSRP on the 42HL67 to 1399. I don't know what retail prices will be, but a local wholesaler has them listed for the 37 and 1079 for the 42. How that translates to retail price, I don't know - but the website sellers have prices pretty similar to that.

I would also like to see a review on the 37HL67. It's been out about 2 weeks now. Someone must have it.

Hi all. Just wanted to say I took back a 37" Vizio today as I was not happy with the backlight bleeding and was a bit to big for my office and ended up picking up a 32HL67 for about the same price. Only had it on a couple hours but can easily see the difference in quality. Hooked it up to my pc but I guess it only goes up to 1024x768. The manual says it can go to 1280x720 with a DVI/HDMI cable so I ordered one from monorpice. Anyone have any experience with this model and using a DVI/HDMI to hook up a PC?

Also have an antenna hooked up and scanned and it easily found all my local HD's and they look great. Watching Suns/Kings game right now. Also hooked up the Xbox 360 via component and tried Gears of War for a few minutes and it looks fantastic.

I haven't seen much online about this model. I'm assuming it's rather new? My build date is February 07.

Anyone have any calibration settings? Is there a topic dedicated to this model as I couldn't seem to find one?

Sorry for the long read :)

Hi all. Just wanted to say I took back a 37" Vizio today as I was not happy with the backlight bleeding and was a bit to big for my office and ended up picking up a 32HL67 for about the same price. Only had it on a couple hours but can easily see the difference in quality. Hooked it up to my pc but I guess it only goes up to 1024x768. The manual says it can go to 1280x720 with a DVI/HDMI cable so I ordered one from monorpice. Anyone have any experience with this model and using a DVI/HDMI to hook up a PC?

Also have an antenna hooked up and scanned and it easily found all my local HD's and they look great. Watching Suns/Kings game right now. Also hooked up the Xbox 360 via component and tried Gears of War for a few minutes and it looks fantastic.

I haven't seen much online about this model. I'm assuming it's rather new? My build date is February 07.

Anyone have any calibration settings? Is there a topic dedicated to this model as I couldn't seem to find one?

Sorry for the long read :)

Could you give more of a comparison between the two, maybe in the form of a pros/cons list? I've seen & played with the Vizios many times while shopping, but can't seem to find a Toshiba anywhere. How is the SD on the Toshiba compared to the SD on the Vizio? Any input would be appreciated. I'm about 99% set on the Toshiba, so any extra tidbits from owners will push me to make the call & get one ordered.

You say the Vizio was too big for your office? Yet you bought a Toshiba in the same size? Anyway, could you give more of a comparison between the two, maybe in the form of a pros/cons list? I've seen & played with the Vizios many times while shopping, but can't seem to find a Toshiba anywhere. How is the SD on the Toshiba compared to the SD on the Vizio? Any input would be appreciated. I'm about 99% set on the Toshiba, so any extra tidbits from owners will push me to make the call & get one ordered.

no. he said the vizio was 37" and the toshiba was 32".

tried all of those suggestions. are you using QAM at all or just your DVR?

Mostly DVR. If I'm using the built-in QAM tuner, I'm usually changing the channel at least every 15 minutes, so I don't notice it very often. When you change the channel and change back, it is OK, right? And then gets progressively worse over time, until you change it again?

If it is really bugging you, it is probably time to make the dreaded tech support call.

no. he said the vizio was 37" and the toshiba was 32".
Must of been that big spider crawling down my screen as I read his post.

Could you give more of a comparison between the two, maybe in the form of a pros/cons list? I've seen & played with the Vizios many times while shopping, but can't seem to find a Toshiba anywhere. How is the SD on the Toshiba compared to the SD on the Vizio? Any input would be appreciated. I'm about 99% set on the Toshiba, so any extra tidbits from owners will push me to make the call & get one ordered.


Basically the Toshiba is a much higher quality image. In our living room I have a Sony 40V2500 and going form that to the Vizio was like going from a Mercedes to a moped. The Toshiba gives a much smoother, clearer and more color accurate picture in my opinion. It's much closer to the quality of the Sony (though not quite) and has much deeper blacks to it. As for SD I can't comment as I only use it for 360, local HD via an antenna and soon a PC monitor. Haven't tried movies yet either but will shortly.

I also got the Toshiba from Best Buy. It's on there website but they didn't have a display in the store. They were however in stock and in the back. I found it at onther shop and played with it and then had Best Buy price match them.

Basically the Toshiba is a much higher quality image. In our living room I have a Sony 40V2500 and going form that to the Vizio was like going from a Mercedes to a moped. The Toshiba gives a much smoother, clearer and more color accurate picture in my opinion. It's much closer to the quality of the Sony (though not quite) and has much deeper blacks to it. As for SD I can't comment as I only use it for 360, local HD via an antenna and soon a PC monitor. Haven't tried movies yet either but will shortly.

I also got the Toshiba from Best Buy. It's on there website but they didn't have a display in the store. They were however in stock and in the back. I found it at onther shop and played with it and then had Best Buy price match them.

Thanks for the info. I've only visited 2 different Best Buys near me, but each one only had 1 Toshiba on display, and that was an older 32". I'll probably get mine through J&R, as I can save a few hundred & have the same return policy as BB. I was real tempted with the Vizio at Costco, that is until I started reading through all the Vizio threads here. I was quite bitten by the price bug, but I came to my senses and realized I wanted this to last for a few years especially since it's only going in a bedroom.

Hi everyone,

Finally got my 42HL196 Build Date Nov 06 switched for a Jan 07 build date... checked it in the store and didn't see any ghost bars or banding.

Can anyone confirm they are happier with a build date of anything greater than Nov 06?

Thanks!!! I get my set on Thursday :)

Hi everyone,

Finally got my 42HL196 Build Date Nov 06 switched for a Jan 07 build date... checked it in the store and didn't see any ghost bars or banding.

Can anyone confirm they are happier with a build date of anything greater than Nov 06?

Thanks!!! I get my set on Thursday :)


Hello,

Received my 37HL66 on 03/03/07 with build date also January 07. No issues what so ever!!!!!!!

Enjoy

Hello,

Received my 37HL66 on 03/03/07 with build date also January 07. No issues what so ever!!!!!!!

Enjoy


thanks man but more interested in the 42HL196 :)

but curious... do these models also have ghost bar/banding issues?

I just got the 32HLV66 hung up on my bedroom wall and it looks great. HD is awesome, SD is ok, but not as good as my pansonic plasma. Movies also look great. I find myself going to bed early just so I can watch the tv.

Currently I have it hooked up to an antenna and it had no problem pulling in all the local stations. I find myself watching PBS HD just because it is in HD and looks great, even if it is some Chinese operah I have never heard of.

I would highly recommend the TV.

Mostly DVR. If I'm using the built-in QAM tuner, I'm usually changing the channel at least every 15 minutes, so I don't notice it very often. When you change the channel and change back, it is OK, right? And then gets progressively worse over time, until you change it again?

If it is really bugging you, it is probably time to make the dreaded tech support call.

thanks for replying. i'll see if the channel change trick works. just been super busy. again, thanks for the reply. hopefully that little trick works although not ideal. do people have these kind of lip sync issues with cablecard?

Ok got my 42HL196 replacement with a Jan 07 build date and NO ghost bars!!!!!!!!!!!!!

FINALLY! My Nov 06 Build Set was horrible! So very happy now :)

Hello everyone. Looking forward to hearning back from you all..

Anyway I'll get straight to it. I am at a crossroad now. I have been looking at LCD for months now. I just happened to stumble across the Toshiba 37HL66 a couple of weeks back and have been reading up on it. What attracted me to it is its dimensions as I looking to fit it in my NYC apartment. The width of it at being just over 36 inches seemed to be a perfect fit for the space I have.

Well here is it as the 37HL67 is on it way to the market, with supposely better speaks..what is your opinion should I get the 37HL66 or pre-order the 37HL67 and wait a little longer..from what I have read the expected release date of the 37HL67 is march/april 2007.


I am pretty much 99% into getting the 37HL67 this weekend. Was wondering if anyone in here actually has the until already and wouldnt mind sharing their experiences..I would great appreciate it...any recommendations for a decent upscaling DVD player to pair with the TOSH...

I am pretty much 99% into getting the 37HL67 this weekend. Was wondering if anyone in here actually has the until already and wouldnt mind sharing their experiences..I would great appreciate it...any recommendations for a decent upscaling DVD player to pair with the TOSH...


Two words : HD DVD :D

I am pretty much 99% into getting the 37HL67 this weekend. Was wondering if anyone in here actually has the until already and wouldnt mind sharing their experiences..I would great appreciate it...any recommendations for a decent upscaling DVD player to pair with the TOSH...

I bought the Oppo DV-981HD player and it is as good as it gets at upconverting. I have it outputting 1080i to my 42LX196 and it looks as close to HD as it could be. Bonus is that this player also has 6 channel out and decodes both SACD and DVD-A discs. Buy direct from Oppo or from Amazon to save shipping costs.

I am pretty much 99% into getting the 37HL67 this weekend. Was wondering if anyone in here actually has the until already and wouldnt mind sharing their experiences..I would great appreciate it...any recommendations for a decent upscaling DVD player to pair with the TOSH...

Hello Merri,

I received my 37HL66 on the first week of March. And I too live in NYC with a small living room. The price was just right for me. My eye was on 32HL66 since they first came out. Then in December, I had a chance of viewing it with my eyes and felt it was too small. So then went looking at 37HL66. Read reviews and some research, brought it without any issues (lovely wife brought it :D ). And I knew that my Toshiba RD-XS55 would fit in perfectly (buying a HDMI switcher). The size of the 37HL66 (built date January 2007) did in fact surprised me. It seemed larger than what I saw in CC. Then again, I do have a small living room.

Iam still fairly new in the LCD world. PQ on HD channel is strictly just amazing (stuck on viewing Discovery Theater)!!!! I have Cablevision IO and using Scientific Atlanta Explorer 4250HD box via HDMI. SD is okay and viewable. Please use some type of video calibration disk. I’ve used Avia and it did wonders, enhanced PQ viewing experience. The speakers on the set, I will admit, I really don’t use them because everything comes out from the receiver. DVD playback from Malata DVP-520 just plain beautiful! Some overscan but the player corrects it. Your 37HL67 is going to be a wonderful experience- go for it!!! :D :D :D :D

Willy P
NYC

Two words : HD DVD :D


I'll add one more... "AWESOME"

The HD DVD Toshiba A2 is the sweetest piece of electronics I have ever owned!!!

To keep on topic... it looks amazing on the 42HL196 lol

We have the option of:

26HL67 or 26LV67
32HL67 or 32LV67
but only 37HL67

Has anyone heard if there will be a 37LV67 released? It appears that there is only a $100 difference between the non-DVD version and the DVD version. I would prefer a 37LV67 since the last thing I want in my bedroom is more electronics clutter. I haven't seen anything on Toshiba's site, nor any of the etailers who typically have preorders way in advance.

I have been permitted to exchange my 42LZ196 for another HDTV due to the multiple vertical strips. The center one is particularly awful and they are other vertical ghosts bars on the panel.

Do you have any suggestions.

I'm like right at the beginning of my quest.
SHARP = BANDING
SONY = $$$
but I heard goods of the Samsung LN-T4665F.
Do you know if it over scans?

Should I stay with the Toshiba, I try my luck with another model?

We have the option of:

26HL67 or 26LV67
32HL67 or 32LV67
but only 37HL67

Has anyone heard if there will be a 37LV67 released? It appears that there is only a $100 difference between the non-DVD version and the DVD version. I would prefer a 37LV67 since the last thing I want in my bedroom is more electronics clutter. I haven't seen anything on Toshiba's site, nor any of the etailers who typically have preorders way in advance.


No 37" LCDVD

I have been permitted to exchange my 42LZ196 for another HDTV due to the multiple vertical strips. The center one is particularly awful and they are other vertical ghosts bars on the panel.

Do you have any suggestions.

I'm like right at the beginning of my quest.
SHARP = BANDING
SONY = $$$
but I heard goods of the Samsung LN-T4665F.
Do you know if it over scans?

Should I stay with the Toshiba, I try my luck with another model?


I have the 42LZ and it's awesome. Looks like the people who have swapped theirs with later manufacturing dates have had fewer problems

I have the 42LZ and it's awesome. Looks like the people who have swapped theirs with later manufacturing dates have had fewer problems

ok... what's the date on yours?

ok... what's the date on yours?

Ironically, it was November...no issues (or I'm not looking hard enough)

PS..The TNINCmail feature is the coolest thing ever!

I've hooked my 32hl67 up to my pc via a dvi/hdmi cable and I have a problem. I can get it to output 1280x720 and 1920x1080 full screen just fine but the quality is very poor. It looks like other LCD's I've tried with the pc before you use the "auto adjust feature" most have. This is the first time I've hooked up to a pc other than VGA and am really at a loss on what to do here. The funny thing is if I look at pictures or even playback video it really doesn't look bad at all. It's everything else. The icons, web browser, etc. Text is blurry and oversharpened and just horrible looking. Can anyone offer any help? It's hooked up to a PC that has a Nvidia 6200 128MB AGP card.

I have been permitted to exchange my 42LZ196 for another HDTV due to the multiple vertical strips. The center one is particularly awful and they are other vertical ghosts bars on the panel.

Do you have any suggestions.

I'm like right at the beginning of my quest.
SHARP = BANDING
SONY = $$$
but I heard goods of the Samsung LN-T4665F.
Do you know if it over scans?

Should I stay with the Toshiba, I try my luck with another model?


I'm very pleased after my exchange of the 42HL196... the Jan 07 Build Date has no issues for myself. I would see if you could exchange for an 07 build date first before spending more $$$ on another name :)

Ironically, it was November...no issues (or I'm not looking hard enough)

PS..The TNINCmail feature is the coolest thing ever!

ok... stop looking, or you might just see it! ;)

I'm very pleased after my exchange of the 42HL196... the Jan 07 Build Date has no issues for myself. I would see if you could exchange for an 07 build date first before spending more $$$ on another name :)

You can be right. But that tv is actually paid, and I think I want bigger... like 52". And I've seen the blacks on the new Samsung 5265f and it's amazing. Check this out!!! (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=10151999&&#post10151999). I like new toys to play around with. I might take the leap, but I'll consider the option you suggest for sure...

thank you very much

anyone having problems with the e-mail scheduling?
according to page 73 of the manual, cable box and set top box are 2 options for the input tags. i have a comcast cable box with a dvr and this e-mail scheduling of recording shows does not work. the tv passes the e-mail test and my e-mails are formatted correctly.

i called toshiba and they told me it only applies to vcr's...i asked him why does the manual say cable box and set top box as the input tags, he didn't know and said he was sorry.....first of all, who would connect a vcr to an hdtv? might as well connect your dvd player via yellow,red and white rca cables.
if you can't use a dvr for email scheduling of recordings, why have it in the manual as an input...the right way would say vcr's only...

Greetings,

Im looking at the 42'' 1080P 42HL196. Can someone please answer my questions for this tv. I just dont feel like going through 50 pages on this thread.

1) I read its not true 1080P, but just upconverts 1080i. But whats the max res. it can put out for PC? How is the VGA quality? Because that is very very important to me, as I will be using this as a monitor on top of console games and HD movies. Im guessing IF it can put out a res above 1366x768, the clarity should be superb.

2) Is it really only 800:1 CR? If so is that its dynamic? Seems rather low and worries me when comparing to say a Sony at 1300:1 Static.

3) The screen viewing area, does it measure in exactly 42'' even?

4) Does this tv have a lot of options to tweak the picture quality?

5) Pics, live pics of it in action if anyone would like to post some, that would be great.

6) Hows the warranty work for people in CAN, is it on site repair?

Im going to check it out in the next few days as its on sale right now. But hopefully I can get some of my questions resolved.

Thanks

Greetings,

Im looking at the 42'' 1080P 42HL196. Can someone please answer my questions for this tv. I just dont feel like going through 50 pages on this thread.

1) I read its not true 1080P, but just upconverts 1080i. But whats the max res. it can put out for PC? How is the VGA quality? Because that is very very important to me, as I will be using this as a monitor on top of console games and HD movies. Im guessing IF it can put out a res above 1366x768, the clarity should be superb.

2) Is it really only 800:1 CR? If so is that its dynamic? Seems rather low and worries me when comparing to say a Sony at 1300:1 Static.

3) The screen viewing area, does it measure in exactly 42'' even?

4) Does this tv have a lot of options to tweak the picture quality?

5) Pics, live pics of it in action if anyone would like to post some, that would be great.

6) Hows the warranty work for people in CAN, is it on site repair?

Im going to check it out in the next few days as its on sale right now. But hopefully I can get some of my questions resolved.

Thanks

Here are answers to the ones I do know

1) it doesn't "upconvert" a 1080 signal. If you send it a 1080i signal, it de-inerlaces it to 1080p. Every incoming signal is scaled and/or deinterlaced to 1080p

2) while it's rated at 800:1, that is only useful for comparing it with other toshiba sets, as there is no standard way of measuring contrast ratio

3) By being 42", it's above 41.49", but below 42.49". My 42LZ196 measures just over 42"

Here are answers to the ones I do know

1) it doesn't "upconvert" a 1080 signal. If you send it a 1080i signal, it de-inerlaces it to 1080p. Every incoming signal is scaled and/or deinterlaced to 1080p

2) while it's rated at 800:1, that is only useful for comparing it with other toshiba sets, as there is no standard way of measuring contrast ratio

3) By being 42", it's above 41.49", but below 42.49". My 42LZ196 measures just over 42"

Hey thanks for the reply mate. Are you able to comment on the VGA quality on this set? Blur free when it comes to text?

Hey thanks for the reply mate. Are you able to comment on the VGA quality on this set? Blur free when it comes to text?


Sorry, I haven't used mine as a monitor...But on HD DVD, it's awesome!!!

I have a new Toshiba 26" LCD model 26LV67 on my desk and use it exclusively as a PC monitor and the image quality is nothing short of excellent.

I agree that these new 1080p panels look fantastic when pared with a HD DVD player.

The 42HL67 is coming out very soon.

-Robert

OK. I went to a local Bestbuy today to test 42HL196 in the hopes of I can get at least 1366x768 resolution on my laptop.

I used powerstrip to enable 1366x768 @ 60Hz and no luck, I also tried 1920x1080 @ 60Hz and again no luck.

All it shows is 1024x768 and there are 2 black bars (almost 40% each) on both sides. I did not have access to the remote but I used its menu to expand 1024x768 to fill the screen and the text etc was crappy.

Kinda disappointed and now looking at a 40" LCD with 1366x768
KDL40S2010 or KV40S200A which are on sale this weekend.

thank you thank you! This is what ive been looking for! This kills it for me since I want to use it as a monitor and 1024x res is just unacceptable. Looks like the 2HL196 is off my list. Thank you, you saved me a trip to the store. :p

And its ironic but ya im probably going to get the S200 Bravia, the VGA on that is absolutely amazing! Nothing comes close to it in the tier one brands.

Guys, thanks for your advice and opinions. I really appreciate it a lot. I have already reserved the 37HL67 at J&R in NYC and will be picking it up on Sunday. I think I got a good price for it too for little less then a grand.

After reading the numerous posts and now having some money left within my original budget, I am additional going to get the OPPO DV-981HD player. Would love to indulge in a HD DVD player but for now I guess I am going to be holding off. I wanna see how the OPPO is going to do on the 37HL67 and then maybe when the time is right, upgrade then. I am really curious to see how regular DVDs as well as DivX and Xvid material is going to look. Will update you guys when I am able to hook things up.

I have called TWC and will be switching my cable box to the Scientific Atlanta Explorer 8300HD box and giving that a go. Cant wait.

Anyway as its probably going to be some time before the next upgrade, any suggestions on a good A/V Receiver to pair with the aforementioned setup.

What I have been considering thus far:-
1) Onkyo TX-SR674
2) Sony STR-DG1000
3) JVC RX-D702
4) Pioneer 1016TXV-K

Anyway have any experiences with either of these amps. At the moment I will be going to pair them with my present Flaunce SX-HTB speakers I got a while back.

Hello Merri,

I received my 37HL66 on the first week of March. And I too live in NYC with a small living room. The price was just right for me. My eye was on 32HL66 since they first came out. Then in December, I had a chance of viewing it with my eyes and felt it was too small. So then went looking at 37HL66. Read reviews and some research, brought it without any issues (lovely wife brought it :D ). And I knew that my Toshiba RD-XS55 would fit in perfectly (buying a HDMI switcher). The size of the 37HL66 (built date January 2007) did in fact surprised me. It seemed larger than what I saw in CC. Then again, I do have a small living room.

Iam still fairly new in the LCD world. PQ on HD channel is strictly just amazing (stuck on viewing Discovery Theater)!!!! I have Cablevision IO and using Scientific Atlanta Explorer 4250HD box via HDMI. SD is okay and viewable. Please use some type of video calibration disk. I’ve used Avia and it did wonders, enhanced PQ viewing experience. The speakers on the set, I will admit, I really don’t use them because everything comes out from the receiver. DVD playback from Malata DVP-520 just plain beautiful! Some overscan but the player corrects it. Your 37HL67 is going to be a wonderful experience- go for it!!! :D :D :D :D

Willy P
NYC

Guys, thanks for your advice and opinions. I really appreciate it a lot. I have already reserved the 37HL67 at J&R in NYC and will be picking it up on Sunday. I think I got a good price for it too for little less then a grand.


Well, you better plan on posting a review of the thing once you have it set up to your satisfaction. A number of us would really like to hear some real world experience with this.


Anyway as its probably going to be some time before the next upgrade, any suggestions on a good A/V Receiver to pair with the aforementioned setup.

What I have been considering thus far:-
1) Onkyo TX-SR674
2) Sony STR-DG1000
3) JVC RX-D702
4) Pioneer 1016TXV-K

Anyway have any experiences with either of these amps. At the moment I will be going to pair them with my present Flaunce SX-HTB speakers I got a while back.

You are going to get similar fanboy responses to this question as you would anywhere else asking about different products. If you want to see what people are saying about each of them, have a look here: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/forumdisplay.php?f=90

Guys, thanks for your advice and opinions. I really appreciate it a lot. I have already reserved the 37HL67 at J&R in NYC and will be picking it up on Sunday. I think I got a good price for it too for little less then a grand.

After reading the numerous posts and now having some money left within my original budget, I am additional going to get the OPPO DV-981HD player. Would love to indulge in a HD DVD player but for now I guess I am going to be holding off. I wanna see how the OPPO is going to do on the 37HL67 and then maybe when the time is right, upgrade then. I am really curious to see how regular DVDs as well as DivX and Xvid material is going to look. Will update you guys when I am able to hook things up.

I have called TWC and will be switching my cable box to the Scientific Atlanta Explorer 8300HD box and giving that a go. Cant wait.

Anyway as its probably going to be some time before the next upgrade, any suggestions on a good A/V Receiver to pair with the aforementioned setup.

What I have been considering thus far:-
1) Onkyo TX-SR674
2) Sony STR-DG1000
3) JVC RX-D702
4) Pioneer 1016TXV-K

Anyway have any experiences with either of these amps. At the moment I will be going to pair them with my present Flaunce SX-HTB speakers I got a while back.

Don't forget an HDMI cable. If your cable company is anything like mine, they will only offer component. How much is the Oppo? You can get An HD DVD player for like $350 now with 5 free movies...It's really worth considering

How does one tell what the build date is? Is it somewhere in the back of the TV?

I have the Oppo 981 and run it through my Denon AVR-2807 and it is awesome for CDs, SACDs, and DVD-As as well as being the best upconverting DVD player I tested (backed up by lots of AVS Forum members on the Oppo pages).

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=760726&page=97&pp=30

While I believe the Toshiba HD-DVD player is an great product, I am choosing not investing in a HD DVD product (either HD-DVD or BR) until the format war is a little more advanced. Plus, I still spend a lot of time listening to music and the Oppo sounds as good as my prior $1,000 Denon DVD player for less than one quarter of the cost.

The Denon receiver has HDMI switching which is handy if you want to run things through your receiver. I have had the SA 8300HD cable box for three months now and have it connected via HDMI directly to my TV and via optical audio cable to my receiver. Only issue I have is with audo lag as has been discussed here. I run the audio to the receiver because I can adjust the lag there while I don't believe that there is anyway to adjust it at the Toshiba HDTV end.

FYI, I have all this hooked up to my 42LX166 with February '07 build date (no ghost bars but a couple stuck pixels). It took me five REGZA 2006 units to get one without ghost bars. I went through three 42HL166 models (October '06, November '06, and January '07 build dates) and one 42LZ166 (September '06 build). Each had ghost bars.

Hey thanks for the reply mate. Are you able to comment on the VGA quality on this set? Blur free when it comes to text?


yes...1920x1080 output from my desktop computer via component video cables is awesome.
i have a 256 meg ati radeon x800xt all-in-wonder and it came with a multitude of input and output capability, including hdtv support....

images from my 6 mp digital camera looks better on my tv than anything else

windows xp desktop and windows are very good...very vibrant

Does anyone know how to remove the tv from the stand?
My buddy got the 42" model with swivel stand and we've gotten it loose, but it still won't come off. Of course there are NO instructions in any of the manuals.

Thanks in advance.

I am guessing it it similar to my 32HLV66 for which I had to remove the 5 or 6 screws in the back of the tv by the stand and it just slides out. You have to remove them completely.

Hopefully this makes sense.

we've gotten it loose, but it still won't come off.

Same here. It is very frustrating. Did removing the screws work for you.

Does anyone know how to remove the tv from the stand?
My buddy got the 42" model with swivel stand and we've gotten it loose, but it still won't come off. Of course there are NO instructions in any of the manuals.

Thanks in advance.You probably removed the screws from the bottom of the stand. Those hold the stand assembly together but not detaches it from the TV. The screws you need to remove are the screws in the BACK of the TV above the stand. Once removed, the stand slides out easily.

This is about the only mfr. specific thread that isn't completely full of problems and complaints. So, along those same lines, I just ordered the 37HLV66 (great deal at Vanns right now). I expect nothing short of true miracles, considering all the positive banter that has been tossed back and forth here concerning the Regzas. Seriously, I know nothing is perfect in tv land right now, so if it works out for me, good. If not, I'll try something else or just wait another 1-10 years. I just really want to replace my 10 year old bedroom CRT before it falls off the dresser and plunges through the floor into the basement, hopefully not killing anything/anyone along the way. I'm hoping that I'll like it so much that it will give me the kick in the butt I need to dump the RPTV in the living room and replace it with the largest Regza I can find-that damned Westa was too much of an influence & he really helped open my eyes to the fact that LCD can be very good. I'll certainly post some comments whenever I get the thing & have time to calibrate & view it.

Well, you better plan on posting a review of the thing once you have it set up to your satisfaction. A number of us would really like to hear some real world experience with this..

Guys,

Sorry for the late response. After all that I have learnt from this forum over the past few months, I only thing its fair that I share with the rest my experiences. So rest assured without a doubt I will post a review once I get things hooked up properly...

Well thus far here it is...

I got the 37HL67 on Sunday and spent the remainder of the day hooking this up. After considering other options, I ended up going with the Onkyo TX-SR674. I think I managed to negotiate a fair deal with the guys at J&R for it. Paid just a little over 500 for it. I am still waiting for the OPPO and if all goes well I should get this Friday.

I am however a little dissapointed with the 37HL67, as after only about 2 hours worth of watching TV, I am not longer to turn it on. :( I turned it off to reconnect the HDMI cable to HDMI-2 (btw 37HL67 has 3 HDMI imputs). I was unable to turn it back on. I called J&R the following day and was referred to Toshiba's TV & LCD support division for assistance. I called them and they referred me to one of their authorized repair centers in the area. I took the day off yesterday to deal with the situation. The Toshiba guys came on time and as promised to have a look at my set and deduced that one of the lcd control panels or something like that had to be replaced. They offered to take it back to their shop, but first suggested that I first contact J&R to get it exchanged. Otherwise they estimate that it would take them about 2 to replace the part. BUMMER!!!! After all this time and reading and researching I got stuck with a lemon..:( Build date of my LCD is March 2007.

So at this point..I am left with dealing with J&R. Thus far their customer service has been good. They have agreed to go an exchange of the TV well at least in principle that it. Anyway will update you guys of my progress.

We have the option of:

26HL67 or 26LV67
32HL67 or 32LV67
but only 37HL67

Has anyone heard if there will be a 37LV67 released? It appears that there is only a $100 difference between the non-DVD version and the DVD version. I would prefer a 37LV67 since the last thing I want in my bedroom is more electronics clutter. I haven't seen anything on Toshiba's site, nor any of the retailers who typically have preorders way in advance.

I am unable to post the link to it just yet..next posting

We have the option of:

26HL67 or 26LV67
32HL67 or 32LV67
but only 37HL67

Has anyone heard if there will be a 37LV67 released? It appears that there is only a $100 difference between the non-DVD version and the DVD version. I would prefer a 37LV67 since the last thing I want in my bedroom is more electronics clutter. I haven't seen anything on Toshiba's site, nor any of the retailers who typically have preorders way in advance.

FYI...
http://crave.cnet.com/8301-1_105-9672518-1.html

From what I have been able to gather..there doesnt seem to be a 37LV67 model.

A favour to ask of any owners of either of the following:

26HL67, 26LV67, 32HL67 or 32LV67

If you could please comment on the SD quality. I am looking to pick one up for my father and SD will be what's on the menu for the foreseeable future, along with DVD.

Many thanks
Sam

comment on the SD quality. ..., along with DVD.

Arguable comments have been made that "DVDs look almost as good as BR/HD-DVD" with the top end players. That's because they include SO's HQV chip. The other top end VP is VP50. You can get this in a BR/HD-DVD player, an external video processor, an expensive receiver or a TV (Syntax signature series 7xx). These chips are much more advanced than the typical VP in upconverting DVD players with Faroudja's DCDi. For more info, so search in assorted forums.

Note, if doing a small screeen from far away, do not waste your money. Get EDTV.

Thanks for your reply wtr_wtr.

I agree that EDTV would be ideally suited to SD viewing but where to find one that also has an integrated DVD player (my father needs that convenience). Also 26 - 32 inch is just about right. I have only seen sub 20 inch EDTV's around.

Sam

Thanks for your reply wtr_wtr.

I agree that EDTV would be ideally suited to SD viewing but where to find one that also has an integrated DVD player (my father needs that convenience). Also 26 - 32 inch is just about right. I have only seen sub 20 inch EDTV's around.

Sam

Well, I just picked up the 37HLV66. The SD looks fine from a distance of about 8', though it is worse the closer you get. It isn't bad overall, but LCD really highlights the crappy channels. You could flip through a few stations, all looking pretty good, then come across one with really bad colors or excessive grain (and I'm using Comcast digital). The flaws just don't show themselves with a CRT the way they do with LCD. SD works fine for me, but I'm always reminded that I'm watching LCD when viewing SD content. I'd imagine with a smaller set size, 26-ish" or 32", SD would look that much better.

Thanks for your comments NVboy - Since 26 is probably the size I am looking at then I think we might be on safe ground with SD. The excellent integrated DVD performance alluded to earlier will be a nice bonus.

I just picked up the Toshiba 32HL67 for my kitchen. I think it is great. Fantastic HD picture. SD picture is good on most SD cable channels and DVD looks fantastic as well.

I had a Sylvania 32 LCD HD set that I had for 2 weeks and took it back. Then picked up the Toshiba.

HD looks as goods as my Samsung 46" LN-S4696D which is the balls.

I got the Toshiba at Best Buy for $899.00

Guys,

Sorry for the late response. After all that I have learnt from this forum over the past few months, I only thing its fair that I share with the rest my experiences. So rest assured without a doubt I will post a review once I get things hooked up properly...

Well thus far here it is...

I got the 37HL67 on Sunday and spent the remainder of the day hooking this up. After considering other options, I ended up going with the Onkyo TX-SR674. I think I managed to negotiate a fair deal with the guys at J&R for it. Paid just a little over 500 for it. I am still waiting for the OPPO and if all goes well I should get this Friday.

I am however a little dissapointed with the 37HL67, as after only about 2 hours worth of watching TV, I am not longer to turn it on. :( I turned it off to reconnect the HDMI cable to HDMI-2 (btw 37HL67 has 3 HDMI imputs). I was unable to turn it back on. I called J&R the following day and was referred to Toshiba's TV & LCD support division for assistance. I called them and they referred me to one of their authorized repair centers in the area. I took the day off yesterday to deal with the situation. The Toshiba guys came on time and as promised to have a look at my set and deduced that one of the lcd control panels or something like that had to be replaced. They offered to take it back to their shop, but first suggested that I first contact J&R to get it exchanged. Otherwise they estimate that it would take them about 2 to replace the part. BUMMER!!!! After all this time and reading and researching I got stuck with a lemon..:( Build date of my LCD is March 2007.

So at this point..I am left with dealing with J&R. Thus far their customer service has been good. They have agreed to go an exchange of the TV well at least in principle that it. Anyway will update you guys of my progress.

No word yet from J&R about next batch of 37HL67. They only mention that its on its way and should be in the store soon. :(

Anyone out there already have the 37HL67. Any comments you would like to share with the rest of us.

Does anyone know how to remove the tv from the stand?
My buddy got the 42" model with swivel stand and we've gotten it loose, but it still won't come off. Of course there are NO instructions in any of the manuals.

Thanks in advance.


Page 5 shows the 5 screws to remove under the section titles "removing the pedestal"

I have a 42LZ196 and love the TV no problems what so ever. I do notice it draws 33 watts in standby mode. I also have a cable box with a switched plug in the back. I have the TV plugged into that now. Will this cause any problems to the TV it seems to work just fine.

I have a 42LZ196 and love the TV no problems what so ever. I do notice it draws 33 watts in standby mode. I also have a cable box with a switched plug in the back. I have the TV plugged into that now. Will this cause any problems to the TV it seems to work just fine.


The TV guide/tuner are always on and update constantly.

Plus, the cablebox is about as bad a power supply as you can seed a TV. It's like putting in 1/2 water 1/2 gas into your new Porsche.

And using the cable box to "power off" the TV is like unplugging it in mid-stream, very unhealthy

PS you're looking at about a buck and a half a month

i got my 42HL196 working via DVI-HDMI adapter and cable.

for what it is worth, the actual mode it uses is 1920x1080i/30, the 30 being the refresh rate and means it is in i, or interlaced, mode. the screen just goes blank when i try the 1920x1080p/60 mode.

it looks great, nice and sharp, but the overscan is a bit annoying. there is a portion of the display all the way around that does not show up on the screen (i think this is called overscan). only the tiniest sliver of the taskbar at the bottom is visible. i tried a couple things i know to get the whole display, but no luck.

anyone fare any better in getting 1920x1080p/60 on this beast?? and how about getting the full display on the screen??

btw, this is our first "big screen" and i love it with windows MCE 2005. need to somehow convince the wife to get a Shaw HD-PVR to "compliment" it.

i got my 42HL196 working via DVI-HDMI adapter and cable.

for what it is worth, the actual mode it uses is 1920x1080i/30, the 30 being the refresh rate and means it is in i, or interlaced, mode. the screen just goes blank when i try the 1920x1080p/60 mode.

it looks great, nice and sharp, but the overscan is a bit annoying. there is a portion of the display all the way around that does not show up on the screen (i think this is called overscan). only the tiniest sliver of the taskbar at the bottom is visible. i tried a couple things i know to get the whole display, but no luck.

anyone fare any better in getting 1920x1080p/60 on this beast?? and how about getting the full display on the screen??

btw, this is our first "big screen" and i love it with windows MCE 2005. need to somehow convince the wife to get a Shaw HD-PVR to "compliment" it.

Have you tried putting the picture size on "Native"? That eliminates overscan

I finally pulled the trigger on a tv. I picked up the 42HL196. I love it.

One question. Does anyone have a very good calibrated tv that coulds share some settings? and if there is anything i should know about the certain tv.


thanx

Hope you guys can help.

In Canada we had variations for the 2006 models. along with say 32HL66 and 37HL66 we had 32HL86 and 37HL86. Now a few place seem to have 37LX96 which seems to be a high end model with integrated DVD player. WHen inquiring about it at a local BB they refered me to 37HLV66 since they did not have the LX.

Obviously a lower end version but by how much? Is the 37HLV66 the equivalent of a 37HL66 with DVD? or a 37HL86 plus DVD or a 37LX96 but without the extra HDMI? Or is it a different panel from all these altogether?

thanks in advance!

chromedog, gosawx is exactly right. You're probably watching your TV in Natural mode rather than Native mode. Hit the Pic Size button on your remote, and select Native. I hope all of this is correct for the HL since I have an LZ model.

Also, I'm fairly certain that the HL series doesn't accept 1080p signals. Only the LZ series and maybe the newer 2007 models that are coming out can accept 1080p. But I refuse to get into the whole 1080i vs 1080p debate.

I finally pulled the trigger on a tv. I picked up the 42HL196. I love it.

One question. Does anyone have a very good calibrated tv that coulds share some settings? and if there is anything i should know about the certain tv.


thanx

Everyone will probably tell you that each TV and viewer is unique, so you really need to find the settings that work for you. However, I will say that the single most important setting for me is to turn the Sharpness all the way down to zero. What I always liked about these Toshiba LCDs is the "softer" picture that, in my opinion, is far more realistic than the over-sharpened Samsungs and Sharps.

Hope that helps a little bit.

When I use my 42HL196 as a computer monitor, (DVI to HDMI) it does not display fine detail clearly. For example, the text under each icon on the desktop is unreadable. It's not too small to read -- it's sort of pixelated. I've tried switching display modes, thinking "Native" would be best, but none of them will improve this problem. This is while running 1920x1080x30.

Does anyone else have this issue? I suppose it might be caused by my graphics card -- ATI mobility 9000 -- but a web search didn't turn up any other complaints.

Hope you guys can help.

In Canada we had variations for the 2006 models. along with say 32HL66 and 37HL66 we had 32HL86 and 37HL86. Now a few place seem to have 37LX96 which seems to be a high end model with integrated DVD player. WHen inquiring about it at a local BB they refered me to 37HLV66 since they did not have the LX.

Obviously a lower end version but by how much? Is the 37HLV66 the equivalent of a 37HL66 with DVD? or a 37HL86 plus DVD or a 37LX96 but without the extra HDMI? Or is it a different panel from all these altogether?

thanks in advance!

Hey there..not too sure if this is going to help, but here is a site a ran across the other day that has specs on all current and discontinued models from a lot of manufactures including Toshiba. From what I have been able to source from the web, it seems to be rather up to date.

http://www.hdtvsolutions.com/flatscreen_mfg.cfm

When I use my 42HL196 as a computer monitor, (DVI to HDMI) it does not display fine detail clearly. For example, the text under each icon on the desktop is unreadable. It's not too small to read -- it's sort of pixelated. I've tried switching display modes, thinking "Native" would be best, but none of them will improve this problem. This is while running 1920x1080x30.

Does anyone else have this issue? I suppose it might be caused by my graphics card -- ATI mobility 9000 -- but a web search didn't turn up any other complaints.

I have the same problem with my ATI ALL in Wonder 9600.
I'm running at 1152x864 @60 and it looks good but the display info is 720p.
I've tried ATI drivers and well as the Omega drivers...same thing.

It could be an ATI issue, or the 9xxx series itself...as other people have had no problems with newer cards and other manufacturers cards.
Have not tried running it 30 though

Anyone running this in a HTPC, or as a monitor please include your card type, settings, and driver version.

Hi. I had a question. Ok...so if i have a ps3 and if I attach it to the 42HL196 and the game or blu-ray player outputs at 1080p, will the tv display anything? :(

Thanks Merri, will check it out!

Anyone running this in a HTPC, or as a monitor please include your card type, settings, and driver version.
I'm using the 42HL196 as a monitor on my Mac Mini which uses an integrated intel graphics chip. The mini is outputting 1920x1080 interlaced. (I'm 99% sure the refresh rate is 30Hz.) Small text looks crisp and clean. Now if only OS X would support large fonts on its icons and system messages, but that's a complaint for another forum... :(

so if i have a ps3 and if I attach it to the 42HL196 and the game or blu-ray player outputs at 1080p, will the tv display anything?
If you plug in a 1080p source, the TV will be blank. Set your source to output 1080i instead. (I don't care to get into any 1080i vs. 1080p arguments, but any device that you have that is capable of outputting 1080p will allow you to output 1080i, or 720p at a minimum.)

I'm using the 42HL196 as a monitor on my Mac Mini which uses an integrated intel graphics chip. The mini is outputting 1920x1080 interlaced. (I'm 99% sure the refresh rate is 30Hz.) Small text looks crisp and clean. Now if only OS X would support large fonts on its icons and system messages, but that's a complaint for another forum... :(


If you plug in a 1080p source, the TV will be blank. Set your source to output 1080i instead. (I don't care to get into any 1080i vs. 1080p arguments, but any device that you have that is capable of outputting 1080p will allow you to output 1080i, or 720p at a minimum.)


Doesn't the PS3 use EDID to determine the input capability of the set, and adjust output accordingly? I know my HD-XA2 outputs 1080i if I hook it up to my 56HM195, even when i set the resolution to "up to 1080p"

Hi. I had a question. Ok...so if i have a ps3 and if I attach it to the 42HL196 and the game or blu-ray player outputs at 1080p, will the tv display anything? :(
The native resolution on the 42HL196 is 1920x1080, so with your PS3 you would have the capability of playing or watching the blu-ray in 1080p...unless there is some sort of limitation with the PS3 that prevents it from passing a 1080p.

I have a 42LZ196 and love the TV no problems what so ever. I do notice it draws 33 watts in standby mode. I also have a cable box with a switched plug in the back. I have the TV plugged into that now. Will this cause any problems to the TV it seems to work just fine.

I called tech support and asked them about plugging in to the switched cable box. At first he said you want to leave it on. Then when I asked why he did some more checking and found no reason why I could not. Where I live we have high electric rates and I figure it cost $40 a year to leave the TV plugged in. The bigger issue for me is the effect on the environment from the waste of electricity. He did say there is a fan in the set but did not know if it ran all the time. Anyone else turn theirs completely off? Or other insite.

I called tech support and asked them about plugging in to the switched cable box. At first he said you want to leave it on. Then when I asked why he did some more checking and found no reason why I could not. Where I live we have high electric rates and I figure it cost $40 a year to leave the TV plugged in. The bigger issue for me is the effect on the environment from the waste of electricity. He did say there is a fan in the set but did not know if it ran all the time. Anyone else turn theirs completely off? Or other insite.

I also have a 42LZ196 (Dec 06 build date) and I have never noticed the fan, even after about 4 hours worth of continuous use. I do have it wall mounted at a slight downward angle, but beyond that no problems. I have the Comcast cablecard, so I don't use their DCT Motorola HD-DVR boxes.

The native resolution on the 42HL196 is 1920x1080, so with your PS3 you would have the capability of playing or watching the blu-ray in 1080p...unless there is some sort of limitation with the PS3 that prevents it from passing a 1080p.

42HL196 does not take 1080p input. I believe that If the playstation 3 does not recognize a 1080p display for blu-ray it downconverts to 720 not to 1080i :( ...I am not sure what the playstation 3 would do if there was a 1080p game and it recognized only a 1080i display... :(

The native resolution on the 42HL196 is 1920x1080, so with your PS3 you would have the capability of playing or watching the blu-ray in 1080p...unless there is some sort of limitation with the PS3 that prevents it from passing a 1080p.
[mdr makes a note to never buy anything from Invision Displays]

Seriously, if you are going to just make guesses, at least say that you are speculating. Especially if you are going to contradict someone who already gave the correct answer to the question.

The max input of the 42HL196 is 1080i. That is an indisputable fact.

[mdr makes a note to never buy anything from Invision Displays]

Seriously, if you are going to just make guesses, at least say that you are speculating. Especially if you are going to contradict someone who already gave the correct answer to the question.

The max input of the 42HL196 is 1080i. That is an indisputable fact.

I will have him research this a little better. I apologize for the misunderstanding as you can probably tell from any searches you might do we don't mess around with false statements and do our best to take care of everyone with our advice. Toshiba is a new product for us so that is probably why there is some confusion. And it is your choice who you buy from.

I will have him research this a little better. I apologize for the misunderstanding as you can probably tell from any searches you might do we don't mess around with false statements and do our best to take care of everyone with our advice. Toshiba is a new product for us so that is probably why there is some confusion. And it is your choice who you buy from.
Thanks, your response is appreciated.

[mdr makes a note to never buy anything from Invision Displays]

Seriously, if you are going to just make guesses, at least say that you are speculating. Especially if you are going to contradict someone who already gave the correct answer to the question.

The max input of the 42HL196 is 1080i. That is an indisputable fact.
Harsh!! It is possible to make mistakes & research is the key, so I had to go back and do mine. I just hung up with Toshiba and indeed the 42HL196 and their 2006 line of 1080p displays will not accept a 1080p feed. Their 2007 lines of 1080p LCD's will. :o
This forum is one of the best resources available anywhere for researching this industry and we are also learning new information. :)

Harsh!! It is possible to make mistakes & research is the key, so I had to go back and do mine. I just hung up with Toshiba and indeed the 42HL196 and their 2006 line of 1080p displays will not accept a 1080p feed. Their 2007 lines of 1080p LCD's will. :o
This forum is one of the best resources available anywhere for researching this industry and we are also learning new information. :)

Just a small clarification: The "LZ" series of 2006 REGZAs will accept 1080p

Just a small clarification: The "LZ" series of 2006 REGZAs will accept 1080p
Correct. No wonder so many consumers are confused about this, since the people selling the product can't even keep it straight. Toshiba and other manufacturers certainly could help out by making things more clear in their promotional materials. :(

Flatt_Matt, "Harsh" is correct, but I hold you guys that are affiliated with sponsors to a higher standard. ;)

Correct. No wonder so many consumers are confused about this, since the people selling the product can't even keep it straight. Toshiba and other manufacturers certainly could help out by making things more clear in their promotional materials. :(

Flatt_Matt, "Harsh" is correct, but I hold you guys that are affiliated with sponsors to a higher standard. ;)


Like the big callout in the 2006 Cinema Series Pro brochure which says:

" Cinema Series Pro models have the ability to accept and display 1080p content, displaying the full potential of high Definition Sources" ? :)

Correct. No wonder so many consumers are confused about this, since the people selling the product can't even keep it straight. Toshiba and other manufacturers certainly could help out by making things more clear in their promotional materials. :(

Flatt_Matt, "Harsh" is correct, but I hold you guys that are affiliated with sponsors to a higher standard. ;)
MDR, I understand and I appreciate that kind of expectation for Forum Sponsors. And that's why I am also researching, learning and sharing (obviously not always in that order). :D

Like the big callout in the 2006 Cinema Series Pro brochure which says:

" Cinema Series Pro models have the ability to accept and display 1080p content, displaying the full potential of high Definition Sources" ? :)
Touche.

Actually, in trying to cut the guy some slack on the initial flub, I was referring to the 2006 HL line's promotional materials which say 1080p all over the place and (arguably) kind of bury that the max input is 1080i. Whether or not that is a valid excuse to be uninformed was a hot topic of discussion here a few months ago that I do not wish to revive :).

And I think I've raked poor Matt over the coals enough for now. Lesson learned, I think. :)

I was in the local BB today. They have the 42hl196 and the 47lx??? on display.
On the display card with all the info on it, anywhere that said 1080P was scribbled out with black marker.

I wonder if they're getting sick of everyone screaming false advertising? Or if it was Toshiba's doing.

I also have a 42LZ196 (Dec 06 build date) and I have never noticed the fan, even after about 4 hours worth of continuous use. I do have it wall mounted at a slight downward angle, but beyond that no problems. I have the Comcast cablecard, so I don't use their DCT Motorola HD-DVR boxes.

I've had a 47LZ196 since September and have never heard the fan. Not saying mine doesn't go on, but it's quiet enough that it never bothers me :D .

I was in the local BB today. They have the 42hl196 and the 47lx??? on display.
On the display card with all the info on it, anywhere that said 1080P was scribbled out with black marker.

I wonder if they're getting sick of everyone screaming false advertising? Or if it was Toshiba's doing.


can't see it being Toshiba's doing, as it's a 1080p television...

I have the same problem with my ATI ALL in Wonder 9600.
I'm running at 1152x864 @60 and it looks good but the display info is 720p.
I've tried ATI drivers and well as the Omega drivers...same thing.

It could be an ATI issue, or the 9xxx series itself...as other people have had no problems with newer cards and other manufacturers cards.
Have not tried running it 30 though

Anyone running this in a HTPC, or as a monitor please include your card type, settings, and driver version.



like i said a few pages back...i can hook up my 42hl196 to my desktop at 1920x1080.

ATI Radeon X800XT all-in-wonder 256 meg
Pentium 4 640 @ 3.2 ghz / 1 gb ddr500 / 2x 320 GB seagate 7200.10's in raid0 /
dfi lanparty 875p-t motherboard

the video card came with an HDTV output dongle and i have it connected via component video cables and for sound, it is connected via sp/dif.

pics from my 6 mp camera looks awesome
desktop and icons are great.
i loaded up FEAR and had it set on max for everything (res was at the game's max of 1280x960 and it was in 4:3 format)

i ran into a copyright error when i tried to play a dvd.
just the other day, i watched "smokin aces" in .avi format and it looked great in widescreen.

my next project will be to down some apple quicktime 1080p trailers

i'm using the latest catalyst driver

I have a 42HL196, which I know accepts up to a 1080i source max. Last evening, however, the animated movie Over the Hedge was on one of the On Demand channels which showed the source as 1080p (triple checked this). I have never seen anything come through as 1080p and was just wondering if someone could shed some light on this. I do not have set top box or cable card but the On Demand channels are not encrypted so I am able to pick them up. Any thoughts as to why the 1080p? Is some HD animation only progressive?

I have a 42HL196, which I know accepts up to a 1080i source max. Last evening, however, the animated movie Over the Hedge was on one of the On Demand channels which showed the source as 1080p (triple checked this). I have never seen anything come through as 1080p and was just wondering if someone could shed some light on this. I do not have set top box or cable card but the On Demand channels are not encrypted so I am able to pick them up. Any thoughts as to why the 1080p? Is some HD animation only progressive?


so you hit "Recall" on the Toshiba remote, and in the lower left hand corner, under the Theaterwide mode, it said "1080p"?

That's really weird

so you hit "Recall" on the Toshiba remote, and in the lower left hand corner, under the Theaterwide mode, it said "1080p"?

That's really weird


Yep...I hit the recall button several times to confirm...odd I know

I have a 42HL196, which I know accepts up to a 1080i source max. Last evening, however, the animated movie Over the Hedge was on one of the On Demand channels which showed the source as 1080p (triple checked this). I have never seen anything come through as 1080p and was just wondering if someone could shed some light on this. I do not have set top box or cable card but the On Demand channels are not encrypted so I am able to pick them up. Any thoughts as to why the 1080p? Is some HD animation only progressive?

What's also weird is how you can get ON Demand (interactive content) without a comcast STB. Cablecard doesn't support interactive content today using the S-Card, however when and if the cable companies release the M-card and upgrade their head ends we'll get all of the interactive features.

So without a Comcast STB how are you getting VOD features?

I am thinking about purchasing the 32" model of this tv. I would be going from a 42" plasma but that is ED to the 720p lcd. This tv is for a bedroom so it doesn't need to be huge and I want something that is portable. I have a few questions.

The specs say this has dynamic contrast. Does this mean it has the feature where the backlight automatically dims depending on what is on screen? If so how well does that work?

I see that it has 5 different aspect ratios which is nice. Could someone tell me how much they overscan the image on the HD sources? I had a Westinghouse that was either 0 or 10%, which is way too much. I'm thinking around 5 would be better. I can't stand the digital noise at the top of the picture on some channels.

Thanks.

What's also weird is how you can get ON Demand (interactive content) without a comcast STB. Cablecard doesn't support interactive content today using the S-Card, however when and if the cable companies release the M-card and upgrade their head ends we'll get all of the interactive features.

So without a Comcast STB how are you getting VOD features?

My cable company, to remain nameless, does not encrypt the On Demand channels, 87-1 and up, 88-1 and up, 89-1 and up and 90-1 and up. I can only guess they don't much care or haven't figured out that these tuners will pick up the channels since so many people either don't have digital HD tuners or are using STBs. I read in one of the cable TV threads that if someone near your house orders On Demand you can pick it up if your set-up is as mine is. Give it a try. Oh, and I'd like to thank my perverted neighbor for all the free porn.

Is the 37HLV66 the equivalent of a 37HL66 with DVD?


You got it. Same thing, but the HLV has the DVD. I had no luck finding someone local who actually carries one of the LX sets, so I kind of scratched that off my list. The 37HLV66, 37HL66 or the new 37HL67 are very nice televisions.

I was thinking about maybe getting the Toshiba 47HL167 when it becomes available at techdepot. But can't find many reviews of toshiba lcds.

Found this one for the Toshiba 47LZ196 Regza 47-inch LCD HDTV:

http://www.ecoustics.com/sv/2046

But a review of the 42-inch version in the similar line would probably give me the best idea of what to expect. Anybody know a link to an in-depth review of the 42HL167? If so, please post. Thanks.

Thanks so much for the answer NVboy, I really appreciate it. asked this at 2-3 different places and you are the only one that finally answered me directly.

thanks again!

Glad to help. If you need further confirmation, you can view the specs for each at Toshiba's website. I stumbled across the same link a couple of times-some sort of spec detail from Toshiba also saying the same thing (of course I deleted all related links once I bought one). I've spent the last few months exhaustively researching these things, so that's why I felt I could post.