BIG has been busy. Probably napping.

Here's the link (http://audioroundtable.com/forum/index.php?t=msg&th=15168&prevloaded=1&&start=0)to his speaker build. I've read it a few times - good stuff!

BIG has been busy. Probably napping.

Here's the link (http://audioroundtable.com/forum/index.php?t=msg&th=15168&prevloaded=1&&start=0)to his speaker build. I've read it a few times - good stuff!


Oh, I'm very much aware that Big has been busy. Doing great work too! :D

Thanks much for the link.

Regards,

RTROSE

Today was a day of rest and relaxation

started with a spin class.
then some forum surfing and lunch
then a 20 minute power nap
Later I watched the new X-men Bluray that I picked up from Redbox
Now I'm getting ready for 3 of my favorite shows on TV,

Boardwalk Empire
Dexter
Homeland

Rtrose, I love the 4Pis. They play as loud as I want without complaint. On my to do list is building some new subs, I picked up a bunch of the MFW15 raw speakers before the liquidation was over. I may build a system with two towers of 4 15inch woofers each. Probably start with 2x2 and go from there.

I would mention watching some football but that was an embarrassment. I guess this is a rebuilding year, seems to be Loganed at the moment.

Yeah, it was difficult to watch. It did remind me of Logan's build.

HEY! LOGAN is continually intercepted by Life. Life is a MEAN blocker. You think it's easy? HUH, Do you? YOU try drafting against Life. AND the refs suck. They NEVER through the flag on Life. Doesn't matter how many blind side hits Life throws at you, Life NEVER gets the flag thrown.

(Whistle blows)....15 yards for the use of through instead of threw.

Offsetting penalties...for using THREW instead of THROW.

looks up at the replay board brandishing the red challenge flag....

BIG, now that winter is upon us, I want to bring this conversation back to shed talk. Why now, because I need the winter to plan. There was a day when shed talk became very popular and a number of them went up, therefore, I hope I am not alone.

My current dilemma is that my shed is sinking. How and why, I couldn't tell you. When it was constructed, I dug away the ground on the less sinking side to make things level. After things were pretty level, I proceeded to to put down the suggested amount of lime stone and the rest was history at the time. The shed base, built onto 4x4's running the length of the shed, 4 to be exact.
http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/bb60/smakovits/Shed/converter_image060.jpg

Well, long story short, the back half where I didnt dig mug is sinking. I know this because when the shed goes out of level the door sticks. When I lift the one side and put pavers under it, the the shed goes level and the door works.

Well, long story short, I raised the thing by 2 pavers once, I think late last year and things were pretty good till this year. This time, the shed was actually floating over the pavers I had there.
http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/bb60/smakovits/Shed/converter_image054.jpg

No idea what happened, but obviously a different part sank this time. I was able to put a tile in there to level things out.
http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/bb60/smakovits/Shed/converter_image061.jpg

So really, my question is, what the heck is happening and what the heck can I do to make it stop.

Looking closely at this image you can see how the entrance is sort of bowed even.
http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/bb60/smakovits/Shed/converter_image056.jpg

At the other side, things sit right on the stone.
http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/bb60/smakovits/Shed/converter_image057.jpg

I am really hoping there is an answer to all this and I hope it isnt something too crazy. If I need to I can lift the 2 side with a jack...I know, maybe not the safest and best for the structure, but it lets me get things back to level at least...

Such the mess, I am hoping you or some others can help in this situation to at least devise a plan going in to the spring.
In this first

........

Rtrose, I love the 4Pis. They play as loud as I want without complaint. On my to do list is building some new subs, I picked up a bunch of the MFW15 raw speakers before the liquidation was over. I may build a system with two towers of 4 15inch woofers each. Probably start with 2x2 and go from there.............

I followed the link provided and read your speaker build thread. Pretty impressive result I would say. Glad they turned out well for you. Sounds like you have another impressive plan in the works for your subs.

Regards,

RTROSE

My current dilemma is that my shed is sinking. How and why, I couldn't tell you.

I have no idea just a couple of thoughts.

If your home/lot is fairly new you are just getting the settling that occurs when the land was cleared for construction and little thought was given to compacting the fill, Just level it, sod it and sell it. I think I had some settling on my property for the first 10 years. There could even be buried items decomposing underground.

As for building a shed on runners, I remember looking at some commercial sheds available in my area and they were using much bigger runners than 4x4s, yours could be warping.

Also looking at this picture I would have built a 2x6 or bigger deck structure that would sit on the sleepers, It looks like you used 2x4s on the flat? that is why your shed has very little foundation stability.

http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/bb60/smakovits/Shed/converter_image056.jpg

This is my foundation you would need to put something like this on the sleepers

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b393/bigmouthindc/SHED/DSCF1543.jpg

Yeah, well, this is horrible news. The shed was a commercial build from the fake amish (the ones that use power tools).

The price at the home and garden show was just a bit more than if I built it myself, so I thought why not save some time...

Well, based on what you have written, I have wasted that money. The real question now is if this can be salvaged. I would think if I could somehow lift the shed/move it, I could build out something similar to your base.

The foundation/lot was liek 18 years old when the shed was erected...

I hate fake Amish almost as much as I hate Illinois Nazis.

The thought of a tear down is starting to ruin my winter that isn't even here yet

I think I would try jacking it up (or tipping on it's side in a controlled manner) and running three or four 6x6 runners perpendicular to your 4x4s. Also, I would add additional 4x4s between the ones you have.

The 6x6 route may be the way to go I am thinking. In that event, how many is the safe number, I believe it I'd 16 feet long. 4 or 5 I assume.

I have also pondered some how getting a base like yours under there, but that would mean getting the whole thing into the air at once...

Just curious, are you still level all around?

Jesus I can't get over the thought of flipping the thing on it's side and the nightmare that could bring with it.

Jesus I can't get over the thought of flipping the thing on it's side and the nightmare that could bring with it.

Yea, another of my wild ass ideas, you may want to empty it first or just wait for a windstorm. If you go the tip it up route you could screw some diagonal 2x4 braces between the opposite walls so that the thing stays in one piece. You would probably only need to get it up 30 degrees or so. Please video this if you attempt.

I wonder what the cost would be to rent a fork lift. I mean given the 4x4 sleepers? if I can get under those and lift the thing, I could, stage a new base, rent, lift, put down new base and lower. But that means I need to get a fork lift. Might be cheaper than the tip method where the whole thing falls apart.

A crane might work too. You could muscle some heavier timbers under the shed, lift it out of the way with the crane (using the timbers) and upgrade the foundation. Then park it back onto the foundation.

I've found that a crane can be rented for about $100 per hour, with minimum charges. A fork lift would do a lot of collateral damage to the landscape.

I googled about lifting a shed and got a suggestion of using truck tires, position them flat under the shed and inflate. Might work, you would probably need four. Get it high enough to slide in the 6x6s. Don't even think about putting a body part under the shed while it is up in the air unless you've put in some serious safety blocking.

I hate fake Amish almost as much as I hate Illinois Nazis.

THAT is FUNNY right there!

Regards,

RTROSE

I have devised a plan far sooner than I ever imagined...

My thoughts are as follows. I know I can use a jack to lift the shed a certain amount needed to level the thing. Therefore, why not use the jack to lift it a bit more. I am thinking cinder blocks, I believe they are 8x8x16. This way, if I can get the thing more than 8" up on the one side, I can insert the cinder blocks and lower the shed. I can then go to the other side, lift and lower it again.

I believe getting the second side into the air will be the real challenge. Once everything is up, I can work to put in the 6x6's, add a few new 4x4's and bam, fixed. But what is going to jeep the shed from sinking again and going out of level.

If this is the fix, the issue will be figuring out what to do about the entrance which is now 6" more off the ground

I have devised a plan far sooner than I ever imagined...

My thoughts are as follows. I know I can use a jack to lift the shed a certain amount needed to level the thing. Therefore, why not use the jack to lift it a bit more. I am thinking cinder blocks, I believe they are 8x8x16. This way, if I can get the thing more than 8" up on the one side, I can insert the cinder blocks and lower the shed. I can then go to the other side, lift and lower it again.

I believe getting the second side into the air will be the real challenge. Once everything is up, I can work to put in the 6x6's, add a few new 4x4's and bam, fixed. But what is going to jeep the shed from sinking again and going out of level.

If this is the fix, the issue will be figuring out what to do about the entrance which is now 6" more off the ground

Big might have another more informed opinion, but here are my thoughts. With doing what you are doing which from Big's suggestion earlier will probably take care of your support issues and make your foundation better and stronger, but will not take care of the underlying issue of the ground settling. The ground will settle over time due to a couple of things, improper drainage, not tamping down the substrate, soil conditions and the like. Unfortunately unless you take care of the reason why the ground is settling you will still have the possibility of the ground settling more.

Unless you want to move the shed take a look at the ground and redo the area to make sure that all the drainage and soil issues are taken care of you will just have to make do with the possibility that you may have to from time to time make some adjustments with tiles and cinder blocks.

Just my .02. What say you Big?

Regards,

RTROSE

Big might have another more informed opinion, but here are my thoughts. With doing what you are doing which from Big's suggestion earlier will probably take care of your support issues and make your foundation better and stronger, but will not take care of the underlying issue of the ground settling. The ground will settle over time due to a couple of things, improper drainage, not tamping down the substrate, soil conditions and the like. Unfortunately unless you take care of the reason why the ground is settling you will still have the possibility of the ground settling more.

Unless you want to move the shed take a look at the ground and redo the area to make sure that all the drainage and soil issues are taken care of you will just have to make do with the possibility that you may have to from time to time make some adjustments with tiles and cinder blocks.

Just my .02. What say you Big?

Regards,

RTROSE

I was thinking similarly that you may be continuing to put a bandaid on a cut that needs stitches. Big gave thoughts on what MAY be happening. your solution should address the real problem which still doesn't seem to be identified.

Lol The Washington monument sinks 5-6 inches every year...they shouldve started over when they had the chance

I would be all for taking it apart and starting again if it was not for the roof. Heck, I fear it all. Going from the ground up and starting again is the best option, we all know that. However, that is the least cost effective if my mind.

Crap sticks. If I could only devise a plan to move the shed. If that is ruled out, I guess I have to go the band aid route...

It actually wouldnt be so bad if the door wouldnt stick. I mean really, I wouldnt be as concerned if the whole shed was at an angle if it was uniform. But when it is just half the shed and the door is sticking that I know there is a need to adjust...

Good thing I gave myself the winter to come up with a plan.

Here's what I'd do....

1) Rent the crane have them lift it and move it off to the side and set it down. Then let the crane go home.

2) Dig and pour some footers, using the round tubes. You probably need 8 or 10 for your size shed. Rent a post hole digger and it goes pretty fast. Get down below your frost line. You can level the tubes, then pour in concrete. Take your time, get it right.

3) Build your sleepers, support decking, etc. Make sure they're still level. Again, take your time, get it right.

4) Rent the crane again to set shed back on the support


Shed building as part of the theater build.....I love it. I bought mine from a not-fake-Amish-honest-to-goodness-AMERICAN company. My lot drops off by more than foot from front to back of the shed. They came in, dug and poured footings. then built the sleepers then the shed. Been 5 or 6 years now and I haven't had any problems with sinking.

Good luck!

I would be all for taking it apart and starting again if it was not for the roof. Heck, I fear it all. Going from the ground up and starting again is the best option, we all know that. However, that is the least cost effective if my mind.

Crap sticks. If I could only devise a plan to move the shed. If that is ruled out, I guess I have to go the band aid route...

It actually wouldnt be so bad if the door wouldnt stick. I mean really, I wouldnt be as concerned if the whole shed was at an angle if it was uniform. But when it is just half the shed and the door is sticking that I know there is a need to adjust...

Good thing I gave myself the winter to come up with a plan.

is building a foundation next to it and just making one move an option?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A23k6jSDhWo

i knew somethin was coming i didnt see THAT comin

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A23k6jSDhWo

Crap sticks. If I could only devise a plan to move the shed. If that is ruled out, I guess I have to go the band aid route...


Call the guys that sell this kind of shed - most of them will do moves as well - they have the tools already to do so. Downside is you'll be paying for 2 moves, unless you have the new foundation ready, but you may be able to negotiate something there.

Once it's moved, you may be able to build a platform as shown above, then put the shed back on top of it. Your entry height is going to be pretty far up though unless you can excavate a bit and put it lower to start.

While you're talking to the shed co's about moving, ask them about a foundation as well. They may be able to do a properly compacted stone base as part of the deal for not much more than you can DIY. Worth asking...

Here is the follow up to that...http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A4v9N2uCUu4&feature=related

Logan, the base was done by me, they just built the shed with 2x4 on their side...

As for the rest, that sounds like a good plan. The only question is, how much would a crane rental like that cost?

I may play the level and band aid game a little to save some money.

Saw this today as a potential solution...

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/projects/87458-ideas-how-raise-small-12-a-2.html#post989746

I came across some videos of people raising sheds then putting a series of large PVC pipes under the shed and moving it. You could slide it over, rebuild a foundation and slide it back. Several beefy friends required.

I came across some videos of people raising sheds then putting a series of large PVC pipes under the shed and moving it. You could slide it over, rebuild a foundation and slide it back. Several beefy friends required.

Adding to Big's shed relocation comment:

This is exactly the process my neighbor used to move a big shed.
He had 4 "landscaping" guys and 5 lengths of PC tube to move a big shed about 25 feet across his backyard - worked quite well (looked like 6" PVC).

The question is, if I completely move the shed to re-do the foundation, do I just put concrete? Do I do the holes with the tubes of concrete as suggested by logan? Do I try to mimic BIG's recommendation?

All viable solutions. I assume poured concrete while not the most economical, it would be the best if done correctly.

The question is, if I completely move the shed to re-do the foundation, do I just put concrete? Do I do the holes with the tubes of concrete as suggested by logan? Do I try to mimic BIG's recommendation?

If you are putting it in the same place, I would not suggest Big's solution or a concrete pad. It sounds like you have uneven settling in the current location, and those two solutions would not correct that. If it were me, I would bite the bullet and put in the concrete posts as suggested by Logan.

A quick web search turned up this site (http://www.bigfootsystems.com/). That site or some others like it should have an online calculator somewhere you can use to figure out how many posts you need and what the proper sizes are for the posts and the support beam.

I used the sonotubes available at the big box stores for my deck footings many years ago. Used a power auger to dig the holes put several inches of gravel in the bottom and around the outside to promote drainage and then filled the tubes with quickrete. I also wrapped the outside of the tubes in plastic to help fight frost heave. I have not had any issues with sinking or settling in the seven years I have had my deck. The sonotubes are very easy to use and make pouring a footer/foundation very easy.

If you are interested I can try to find some pictures of how I did it. I took photos, just can't remember where they are stored at the moment.

Happy Thanksgiving to all of you!

Regards,

RTROSE

BMDC:

You mentioned somewhere you had some windows you drywalled over. I'm in TN so my climate is a little warmer than your's but I think we both qualify for heating and cooling seasons.

I worried abotu how to handle the "plugs". I really dont' need to remove them except for a catastrophy (tree falls through window, etc.). Drywalling over them is the easy button. I have them framed and ready to case out, I was going to just plug the openings with independent (from the rest of the wallboard) "plugs". Maybe seal the first layer with acoustic sealeant, and mud the crack without tap on teh final, visible layer. It will grow a little crack there which in this case is good, so I can see where the plug is should I need to remove it. Walls get fabric so cosmetics aren't an issue.

So, here's the question... how did you handle your windows insulation and vapor barrier-wise? I'm worried about them getting condensate and then mold in that little cavity. I was thinking a faux windows treatment (for benefit of the outisde lookign in view), then insulation, then a vapor barrier, then my drywall.

How are your's performing? Any issues?

I haven't had issue with the windows, I hung a blind in the closed position, then plywood mounted to furring around the framed in window, some insulation then drywall. There are plenty of gaps in my wall and windows for moisture to dissipate.

I have some additional thoughts on the windows, all of your comments about moisture and sound still apply but as my room will have only one entrance door I needed to consider alternate safe exits in an emergency, the windows!

My room is in the basement and once complete should have alternate escape roots in the event of a fire, the type that are easily accessed and don't require tools to open.

In addition to the need for light and sound control I too want the windows to look somewhat normal from the outside, I plan to have reflective film applied to them so that from the street it would be impossible to tell they have been covered over, this will have the added benefit of reflecting the sunlight preventing a heat buildup in that area. I will insulate the cavity that gets enclosed and then use easily removed hanging panels to cover to window openings.

These panels may be covered with fabric or may be paintings or even movie posters, something light and easy to remove in an emergency.

I may have missed this in all the traffic but a long time ago when you started this where did you get your letters? Also I noticed you had blue rope light under your bar area. Is that 12v or 120v? I am curious about this. I have some big rope light under my bar and it just sucks. It isn't bright at all. It is incandescent - line voltage - not dimmed.

Thanks!

Neil

I plan to have reflective film applied to them so that from the street it would be impossible to tell they have been covered over,

I covered over two windows. One is under the deck and you can't see it anyway. The other you CAN see, but is basically at ground level from the outside. I had the Mrs. make a cheap set of curtains. Put them in the closed position and it looks like a normal closed window from the outside.

but as my room will have only one entrance door I needed to consider alternate safe exits in an emergency, the windows!


YES, I get really nervous when I see basement projects where the only exit is up the stairs. I still have a walkout door and three full windows in my basement even though I boarded up two.

I may have missed this in all the traffic but a long time ago when you started this where did you get your letters? Also I noticed you had blue rope light under your bar area. Is that 12v or 120v? I am curious about this.


The letters are 1 inch thick gator foam letters with a brushed silver laminate on the front and edges painted to match. Dimensional lettering is a standard offering at any commercial sign shop, most just order from a supplier a few actually make with computerized cutter. I ordered mine from Designery signs. You can Google "dimensional lettering" and find plenty of vendors.

The rope light is an 120v LED Blue rope light on a rotary dimmer switch.

YES, I get really nervous when I see basement projects where the only exit is up the stairs. I still have a walkout door and three full windows in my basement even though I boarded up two.
No problems for me there. My room has 5 doors. Only one is a dead end into an adjoining room with no windows. Windows are simply in my way :) .

Is that Big in the new Batman movie?

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-xnlzY4pr3cc/T2uBq3FlAXI/AAAAAAAAAOw/rLX9fgbSrSk/s512/bigindc.jpg

Here is a shot from last week hanging treatments and fabric in Ohio

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b393/bigmouthindc/IMG_7503.jpg