Official Optoma HD7100, HD7300 + HD3000 Scaler thread. [Text View] - Page 2

scottnv

09-21-06, 11:50 AM

I just got the HD7100 last night, hooked it up to my Toshiba HD-A1 with a 6 foot HDMI cable and a DVI adapter - got the dreded HDMI Error 1! Could not get it to sync with the proj, kept dropping the signal after initial startup.

So I hooked it up with the supplied componet video cables and everything worked great. The HD-DVD of TLS looked very sharp with great colors and blacks.

I next played The 5th Element superbit DVD. I set the HD-A1 to output 480p to the optoma HD-7100. I thought it looked great, better than I remember. One question - does not the Optoma HD-7100 convert all signals to 720p? If so, then would not a 480p signal (regular DVD) get upconverted to 720p which should be about the same as the Toshiba HD-A1 upcovering to 1080i and then the Optoma HD-7100 converting it to 720p. Would not both of these methods produce a very similar picture??

If so, then would not component video connnections work just fine unless the HD-DVD's have the ICT turned on?

I love the projector, just want to know if I'm missing out by having to use componet video versus HDMI?

Dean Prestholt

09-21-06, 01:55 PM

Strange thing, I was just looking at the specs for various Optoma projectors over at Projector Central and it says "This projector is manufactured by Liesegang as the e.motion 4100" in regards to the HD7100. All the other ones I checked says they are manufactured by Optoma, including the HD7300. I thought the 7100 and the 7300 were the same projector only the 7300 came with an outboard scaler? Are they both made by Liesegang? Does Optoma make any of their projectors? Maybe that's the reason there have been so many syncing problems with the 7100?

Im still on the fence about buying this projector, especially with all the new ones coming out at even better prices. Although none of the lower priced DLP models have lens shift like the 7100, which would be nice to have. Still it would be a much easier choice if, whoever is making the 7100, would get the HDMI input working correctly. :mad:

mbw23air

09-27-06, 03:44 PM

I next played The 5th Element superbit DVD. I set the HD-A1 to output 480p to the optoma HD-7100. I thought it looked great, better than I remember. One question - does not the Optoma HD-7100 convert all signals to 720p? If so, then would not a 480p signal (regular DVD) get upconverted to 720p which should be about the same as the Toshiba HD-A1 upcovering to 1080i and then the Optoma HD-7100 converting it to 720p. Would not both of these methods produce a very similar picture??

The A1 upconverts standard DVDs better than the projector will do, that is one reason why the HDMI has to be used for this to happen(unless there is no copy protection on the DVD you are trying to upconvert). I havent seen the HD7100 yet but I bet you would have a better picture with the A1 upconverting SD DVDs to either 1080i(most preferred) or 720p. My A1 makes DVDs look much sharper than my projector could do.

If so, then would not component video connnections work just fine unless the HD-DVD's have the ICT turned on?

Exactly...until the flags are turned on, the A1 will play HD DVDs in 1080i out of the component output.

I love the projector, just want to know if I'm missing out by having to use componet video versus HDMI?

You are definitely missing something if you cant watch your standard DVDs upconverted through the HDMI.

I wish Optoma would have a firmware fix for this HDMI problem.

Mike

guitarman

09-27-06, 04:25 PM

The only way I get the HDa1 to work all the time is with the HD3000 scaler in the mix. Although it seems my HDa1 died, no more play just lockups. I know they picked up a few Toshiba's to test with the HDa1 but nothings been settled yet.

I'm still asking for overscan also, stand alone HD7100's need a firmware for that.

Dean Prestholt

09-27-06, 04:47 PM

Well I think I might just have to jump off the fence on this one. I really want to get something soon and it doesn't appear that Optoma is going to get this figured out any time in the near future. Kind of disappointing. I suppose if I want lens shift I'll have to look into the LCD lineup. The Panasonic AX-100 is looking pretty good. Probably doesn't have as good of a black level but it sure is versatile in where you can set it up at, you don't even have to ceiling mount it! That would make it handy if you wanted to temporarily move it to another room.

I'd still like to know if Liesegang makes all of Optoma's projectors or just the 7100?

scottnv

09-28-06, 11:24 AM

Thanks for the info on my component video questions Mike!

dustinst22

10-03-06, 01:01 AM

Using factory settings, my reds and greens are coming out very orangish. I've tried calibrating but still can't get the vibrant reds and greens to come out. Anyone else having this problem?

FGM

10-04-06, 03:28 PM

guitarman

10-04-06, 07:54 PM

The projectors scaler does an excellent job on 1080i, but if you can match the PJ's 720p resolution. The screen should work out fine. Sounds & Vision I use it all the time, it's fast and accurate.

guitarman

10-04-06, 07:57 PM

Using factory settings, my reds and greens are coming out very orangish. I've tried calibrating but still can't get the vibrant reds and greens to come out. Anyone else having this problem?

Nope, mine has very deep reds bordering on crimson. Green shows some yellow but that's typical.

scottnv

10-05-06, 12:38 PM

In regards to the HD7100 - which is better in the unit the de-interlacer or the scaler?

Which signal would produce a better picture?

1) a 480P signal sent to the HD7100 which would then scale it 720P or

2) a 1080i signal sent to the HD7100 which would then have to de-interlace it to 1080P (?) and then scale it to 720P.

It seems that #1 produces less work for the HD7100 - am I somewhat correct is assuming that 1080i and 720P are pretty much similar in picture quality?

dustinst22

10-05-06, 01:06 PM

Boy do I feel like a moron -- the red component cable had simply slipped out of the projector! Much better now (duh).

Awesome projector. If only the HDMI would work with the Toshiba HD DVD player.

rking401

10-05-06, 05:52 PM

My HD7100 should be on its way. It will replace an Infocus X1 that I still like.
I plan to project on a 92" GrayWolf from about 10ft and drive it with a Zenith DBV318 up-converting DVD player.
Will the screen and DVD player do justice to the HD7100? If not, which ones should I consider?
Should I output 480p, 780p or 1080i to the projector?
I have a Sound and Video "calibrating" DVD which I have found almost useless with the X1 mainly due to the scarcity of controls on the X1 pertinent to the disc patterns. Will my calibrating disc be of any use to tune the HD7100 or will I need Avia or DVE, which one?
Thanks in advance for your comments.That's the same projector that I replaced. You will love the it (assuming you get a good one first time). Assuming the screen that you are replacing is near the same size as the new screen it should be a very easy install. Mine went on the the ceiling at the exact same spot and I retained the 4' screen height that I had with the X1, of course the new screen is wider. :)

wdps34

10-16-06, 02:05 PM

i am about to buy this to replace my infocus sp 4805. any comments on this projector? has optoma worked out the bugs? connectivity problem is not a factor with me as i will use component(RGB).

steve morgan

10-16-06, 08:07 PM

im on board with this projector just not sure if i should buy now or wiat and see if they have a better deal comming maybe a free bulb ? i hope my dvi works

CowboyCurtis

10-16-06, 09:08 PM

The HD7100 seems like a lot of projector for the money. One aspect that makes me believe it's a quality unit is that it weighs 14 pounds, about twice as much as others I'm considering such as the Mits HC-3000U. It's frustrating because I'd like to wait until other Darkchip 3 pjs like the HD73 and Mits HC3100 (maybe it'll come to the US) hit the market and then compare to the 7100, which has some flaws. But if I wait too long the pipeline on the 7100 may disappear. I don't know about further price reductions or rebates......may not happen considering how far it's come down already.

David Cox

10-17-06, 08:18 PM

afcooper

10-18-06, 06:51 PM

guitarman

10-18-06, 08:00 PM

Has Optoma worked out the issues with this projector? The black level and throw distance are perfect for my room. But I'm loving my Tosh HD DVD player and there is no way I'm giving that up. I guess since HDMI is the problem I could run component instead.
Is the HD7100 still considered a good purchase?

David

I'm watching Pitch Black on the HD7100 from the Tosh right now. Video is stellar on this projector. If you ask me it will put a serious hurt on any 720p projector. :)
I'm am running it ok with the Tosh/HDMI because I'm using the HD-3000 scaler. Right just go component to solve your problem. Nothing wrong with solid RGB cables..

Hey! plus the PJ has two component inputs, perfect.

You know guys I've CR tested a ton of projectors in my house. Without a doubt the HD7100 came in with the highest CR's. 4300.1 if I placed the meter close to the PJ lens. 5700.1 if I place the meter near the screen area. Which after reading a later widescreen review magazine is where my buddy Greg Rodgers check his contrast ratio's.
It's a pretty cool projector.

GrapeNuts

10-19-06, 09:02 AM

Tom, Have you or anyone else heard of any problems with the newer Toshiba HD-A2 paired with the 7100 via HDMI? I have the 7100 and absolutely LOVE the picture. I couldn't possibly find a better projector for the current street price. I don' t even know if I want the HD-3000 or not. The picture is already fantastic. in your testing is the picture with the HD-3000 paired up to the 7100 worth the 2300 it will cost to buy it? I just can't see this projector getting much better than it already is. Your thoughts...

FGM

10-19-06, 10:26 AM

Hi
It is about time to upgrade my InFocus X1( which I have been very pleased with after 2 1/2 years of trouble free service), and I have been thinking about the 7100 for some time. I have been unable to find a local dealer to see the 7100 for myself, so I would like to get some comments from other X1 upgraders, since I am most familiar with it. My current system uses a 100" matte white 4:3 screen, and I sit 17' from it, and almost under the PJ, that I run in high output mode. I would use a 120" High Contrast Matte White 16:9 screen, which gives me the same picture height as the 4:3 but about 2.5' wider, and the pixel size would be 20% smaller. I would also sit directy under the PJ. I mostly watch DVDs as over the air HD has little that interests me, although I do have an HD STB.

My concerns are how the 7100 compares to the X1 for brightness, is the screen door effect more or less noticeable, and the fan noise levels in high brightness mode. Any other comparisons between the two would also interest me. Thanks in advance.

Ray

Hi, Ray,
I have replaced my good X1 with the HD7100 and I LOVE what I see. I have had the 7100 for just over a week and it has worked for about 36 hours total w/o any glitches; none. It is beautiful.
I am no expert at this but I think the 7100 would light up your 120" better than the X1 does your 100" and the PQ between the 2 will just not compare. If you have good light control you may be able to run the 7100 on low mode which is a lot quieter than the X1 in eco mode (that is how I have always used it) and in my place I sit right next to the projectors. Although I have not yet run the 7100 in high brightness mode, when I turn the 7100 off, during the cooling period the 71 may be a bit louder than the X1 in econo mode but not by much and I would say that the 7100 noise level in high mode is not more distracting than the X1 in econo mode, in my opinion. I was concerned about the noise level of the 7100 but in low mode it is a definite improvement over the X1 and not a problem to me and I sit just next to it (head level about a foot away).
There is also a major improvement in SDE as well compared to the X1. I seat at about 10' from my 92" Graywolf (1.5X width) and I do not see any SDE in the image and hardly any on the white subtitles.
One word of caution, the horizontal lens shift range is very limited (about 7.5% of screen width either side)
Good luck with your projector replacement.

CowboyCurtis

10-19-06, 12:48 PM

Should I wait for the new darkchip 3 pjs, the Mits HC3100 and Optoma HD73, to hit the streets or go for the HD7100 now with the $400 rebate still in place? The HC3100 got a great review at cine4home but it's not a sure thing that it will be coming to the US soon if at all. The HD73 is going to be here next month but there are no reviews of it yet.

Another thing to ponder is the scaler issue. I don't plan to get an HD-DVD player for a year so.....going to wait for bugs to clear out and prices to come down, so do I need the HD-3000 scaler to run off an Oppo or other upconverting player? I'll be receiving signal from an H20 DirectTv box in addition to the DVD player. FGM, what's your take on the need for a scaler. Guitarman or anyone else with this unit I'd like to hear re the scaler.

Thanks everyone!

David Cox

10-19-06, 01:59 PM

Speaking of scalers and HDMI--
Is the HD3000 required or can I use any HD scaler to get HDMI to the projector without error?

GrapeNuts

10-19-06, 02:17 PM

the DVDO scaler will work with it. there are two models..the 30 and the 20. The 20 is only 1695, but comes with less inputs. The 30 was put up against the HD-3000 using the 7100 and it was a close call with the HD-3000 winning by a small margin. there was a third scaler as well, but I can't remember which one they chose. It didn't fair well though. If I were you, I wouldn't even think of the scaler until you have the 7100 set up and view a few movies. You'll be shocked just how good the picture really is. You may decide you don't need to shell out the extra $$ for the scaler. That's why I posted to Tom. To see if he thinks it's really worth it. Too be honest, with still some tweaking to go, I'm delighted at the picture my 7100 throws. when it's in it's proper environment, it will be even better! The faroudja processor in the 7100 is actually very satisfactory. The Gennum scaler is no doubt superior, but you will have a very clear picture with rich blacks and vibrant colors even without it. Just my $.2
EDIT: Cowboy, the HD73 will NOT be as good as the HD7100. I've already heard that they are using inferior optics, and that it more closely resembles the HD72 regardles of it's HD+2 chip. Hence the super low street price. Everyone here seems to have the largest issue with the 7100 not being compatible with the tosh HD-A1. The HD-A2 is about to come out, and pre order is only 489 shipped. I'm calling tosh to see if they have addressed the HDMI issue pairing to the 7100. If they have, consider it bought!

David Cox

10-19-06, 02:30 PM

Everyone here seems to have the largest issue with the 7100 not being compatible with the tosh HD-A1.
The HD-A1 upscales using HDMI only. I think that's the only reason I'd need a scaler--to uprez my SD DVDs. I can run component from the HD-A1 to the HD7100 no problem. The only downside I know of is that the scaling that would have been done by the HD-A1 (which does a great job of it) is now being handled by the HD7100. But maybe that's not a big deal anyway considering the HD7100 puts out an amazing picture.

GrapeNuts

10-19-06, 02:42 PM

The scaling the HD7100 will do is very good. The upconverting of SD dvd's to progressive by the HD-A1 is better and would offer a better picture. Like I said earlier, even using my ancient dusty Sony DVP-S560P, which will put out 480P, I get a picture that looks phenomenal on the HD-7100. Have you looked on the internet for a hack for the HD-A1 to do upconverting over component? I have a samsung HD850 and it is HDMI as well. It is supposed to only upconvert to 1080i via the HDMI, but there is a hack that allows you to send the signal over component. I did it, and the picture is better using the component than with the HDMI. I truly don't know if there is anything out there like that for the Tosh, but it may be worth looking into? My Denon 3930CI looks better over Digital...go figure

CowboyCurtis

10-19-06, 03:36 PM

Grapenuts.....Thanks for your reply! Your insight into the optics of the HD73 vs. the HD7100 is the info I was looking for. You also cleared up the scaler issue for me. What's been puzzling is how much the scaler costs (same as the pj itself) and how it seems to give only an incremental increase in performance plus the ability to get around the handshake issue with the Tosh HD-A1. The only other competitor for my affection is the Mits HC-3100 and it's ranked geographically unobtainable currently. The 7100 came down a little more in price today on reputable dealer's website.

FGM

10-19-06, 04:16 PM

GrapeNuts

10-19-06, 04:38 PM

over the past few days of viewing, I have become an advocate for the 7100, even without the HD3000. Cowboy, you will not be dissapointed with this projector, the picture is amazing for the pricepoint. quite possibly the best for the money.
with a street price after rebate of 2K, (darn it...don't kill me for not posting MSRP)
there isn't anything out there that will beat it. As far as the HD-A1 handshake...I'm not worried about it in the least bit. The HD-A2 is coming out now, and others will have their models out soon. I haven't been able to contact Tosh yet, but I'm going to see if the HD-A2 will clear the issues the HD-A1 had with the 7100. My opinion...GO FOR IT :D

EDIT: I was able to get in touch with Toshiba Tech support. Unfortunately, they have NO idea of whether or not the issue was addressed. They didn't even know that there was an issue with it. They only know it's 1.2a HDMI and that's it. Got to love Level 1 tech support.

CowboyCurtis

10-19-06, 06:29 PM

I whipped out the credit card a few minutes ago and took the plunge on the 7100, it'll be here next Friday. Thanks everyone including Grapenuts and FGM for your detailed and informative responses really helped me make the decision. Now I'll be ordering the rest of the gear. I'm thinking 110" Carada BW screen at around 13' or 14' viewing distance. with a coffee table mount. Does that sound OK or should I go bigger or smaller? Then there's the H20 box from directTv, an Onkyo ht s990thx for surround, and some Monoprice cables....everything for under 4K. This will be my first pj. I've been running with two 27" Sony XBRs since 1990. They are still great sets but you can see I've had a little pent up demand going.

eXgo

10-19-06, 07:19 PM

GrapeNuts

10-19-06, 08:33 PM

Exgo, Guitarman has already tried the shorter vs. longer cable solution with no avail. It is a very real problem with the 7100/HD-a1 combo. Luckily, it's the only dvd player to projector problem I've heard about with this one. To both you and Cowboy...Cheers on the purchase! Cowboy, if this is your first projector, and you have been using antiquated equipment....you are in for a serious treat with the HD7100! Pair it up with a decent dvd player and you'll be amazed. I'm going to give you all the settings that you should probably use to get you started. Although out of the box performance is very good, tint is toward the green side, contrast is a bit low, and the color temp is quite cool. use these settings to start you off and you'll be happy. after that, tweak away!
Here goes:
Gamma set at 2.2
set color temp to 6500K
switch to ISF Night
change brightness to -1 (this is one bright projector!)
change contrast to +2 (you will change this to suit later, but it's a good start point)
White Balance...Green ratio to -2(can get away with -1, but -2 worked a bit better for me personally) and green offset to -3
Color to -1 or just 0
Sharpness to Sharp.

That will get you pointed in the right direction and you'll be happier with the projector if you make those changes before you view. You'll thank me for it!
Anyone who wants to see screen shots using those settings let me know. I just shot it against a bare wall....this alone should be enough to get you to buy it!

guitarman

10-19-06, 09:13 PM

GrapeNuts

10-19-06, 09:25 PM

Man, and Here I was hoping you would have told me that it was worth it and to get it! and hey, I am rich.....and infamous :) I'm still probably going to go for it once the theater has been completed. For now, there isn't really any point.
thanks for the $.2, I appreciate it!

mystery

10-19-06, 09:27 PM

Okay GrapeNuts! :)

I'm a sucker for screenshots so when/if you get the inclination, I'd love to see what this puppy is capable of even if it's on a wall.

Wayne

eXgo

10-19-06, 10:30 PM

i just purchased the HDA!, i am crossing my fingers.

if it doesn't work i will be very dis-satisfied.

:)

i will post my results.
as i have just dropped 5 thousand on my entertainment system in 2 days. :D

guitarman

10-19-06, 10:56 PM

Just run it with component cables. That's what I plan to do. I talked with the Engineering Mgr today and mentioned firmwares for the HD7100. Hey I'm using it!

He's on his way to Taiwan this weekend for a weeks stay. Part of his plan is to whip the new group Taiwan has into getting these firmwares done. I asked again for a overscan or more movement on the digital vertical shift. Plus more work on the Toshiba and DVI.

GrapeNuts

10-19-06, 11:01 PM

mystery, give me an email addy and I'll send the two for you. I'm no good at night photography, and it's thrown against a wall, but you'll still be pleased I think.
exgo- it's not going to work via HDMI. the HD-A2 might. it is going for 489 shipped right now. If you are able to cancel the A1 and order the A2, I'd go for that.
You will still be able to connect the A1 via Component as Guitarman stated. It's just the HDMI handshake that won't work properly.

eXgo

10-19-06, 11:04 PM

guitarman, does the component connection look as good as HDMI? i assume it does...

but just doesn't offer upscailing.. am i correct?

This seems like an awesome pj, and i am very happy with my choice. but i had my heart set on HD-DVD. and if it don't pan out. i will be sad. for a minute. but still HD has so much more movies right now. and i will prob get a bd when the price drops.

thanks for your informative posts

:D and reviews

rod

- also, didn't you say that it worked via HDMI 1 out of 25 times.

i like odds, and i am a sucker for punnishment.

guitarman

10-19-06, 11:53 PM

You can send any signal you want with the HDA1 via component. 1080i and 720p look great, even 480p looks great. Forget about HDMI until a fix comes, if not you're still ok with component. I read and ISF's review once that said on all the digital and HD displays he's tuned component always looke better than HDMI. Great is great, try it.

eXgo

10-20-06, 12:00 AM

i am starting to see that. but as i have also read. studios can reserve the right to

limit the use of actual True Hi Def to HDMI/HDCP

and downconvert the image to somethings like 960x540 via comp.

this also looks to be a way to copyright material.

though they may not continue to do so.

just like oxycontin/naltrexone in the late ninties.

anyways. yes a fix could be cool.

guitarman

10-20-06, 12:18 AM

Right now I have 40 HD-DVDs that are good. If you're worried about HDMI wait for other players. Bring on the Matrix in HD-DVD :)

eXgo

10-20-06, 10:19 AM

it's all good :D

thanks your your input

mystery

10-20-06, 11:19 AM

Thanks GrapeNuts for your excellent screenshots! :) It's truly amazing how good this projector looks on bare walls. Who needs a screen?! :D

Wayne

FGM

10-20-06, 11:38 AM

GrapeNuts

10-20-06, 02:14 PM

Thanks Wayne! I'm going to be pushing those guys to get my theater done over the next few weeks. now that I've tasted what this projector can do, I can't wait to have it in it's appropriate environment on a nice stewart firehawk 106" screen!

guitarman

10-20-06, 02:46 PM

Hi, Tom,
I can't get digital vertical shift on my HD7100. I am running it with a DVI cable. Is vertical shift available only with component connection?
Thanks

DK about DVI but I've seen it on my TV component hookup. It doesn't move up enough to take comcast TV garbage out of the top of the video.

eXgo

10-20-06, 03:37 PM

Has Anyone hooked this pj up to a HTPC?

i have a dual HTPC hooked to my current sp5700.

1 keyboard+mouse 2 HTPCS.

anyone have any difficulty getting native 1280x720 on xp?

i had a hellova time getting 1024x576p on my current one.

thanks

steve morgan

10-20-06, 06:40 PM

just pulled the trigger . now for a diy screen im thinking about the laminets or bo cloth. anyone have a diy with a 7100 ? im going 120" or slightly less .

dustinst22

10-20-06, 07:14 PM

Just watched Batman Begins last night in HD on my 120" Carada....phenomenal image and sound. I don't mind having to stick with component and losing upscaling capabalitiy with SDVD. After watching HD DVD, I no longer want to watch standard DVD anyway (it spoils you).

CowboyCurtis

10-20-06, 07:19 PM

My 7100 arrives in a week. My viewing distance is 13' to 15' in a light controlled room with an 8'2" ceiling. Projector will be mounted on a coffee table in front of the seating (or in between if required). I'm thinking that a 110" Carada BW might be the ticket. Any comments or improvements on that choice?

Grapenuts....thanks for the calibration input. I'll let you know how it works out. Screen type might have an influence on those numbers, right?

CowboyCurtis

10-20-06, 07:20 PM

dustinst22

What is your seating distance and projector throw?

dustinst22

10-20-06, 07:26 PM

Hey Cowboy, I decided to go big and I'm really glad I did (as are my friends). I've had this set up for the past 2 months:

Seating Distance: roughly 12'
Screen Diagnal: 118" on BW Carada
Projector Throw: Approximately 141" (projector is on a shelf directly overhead)

VERY hard to see any SDE. My buddy has 20/15 vision and has to strain to see any hint of it...and can only see it with text.

Completely light controlled room. I have a 2-bed apartment and turned one bedroom into a theater! Great bachelor pad. So far the neighbors arent complaining about the sound and i have my system going pretty loud with True HD sound!

Can't say enough about this set up....friends are blown away.

steve morgan

10-20-06, 07:56 PM

any screen shots?

dustinst22

10-20-06, 07:57 PM

I tried getting some, but they didn't come out real well. Any suggestions on getting good screen shots? When I pause the HD player, the image of course is blurred. I'll get some new ones tonight.

infx708

10-20-06, 10:54 PM

Ok, I'm seriosly considering this PJ due to the short throw distance. I'm totally new tot he front pj arena and the whole screen gain thing is making my head swirl. I plan to put the pj on a table approx 9.5 feet from the screen. Seating will be approx 16 feet from the screen. I've found a package that includes a 92" diag screen with a ".9 gain high contrast material". Does that sound like the right screen for my plan, or is more info needed?

GrapeNuts

10-21-06, 09:06 AM

Cowboy,
screen size and gain, distance from projector, and dvd player will all have an effect on those settings. I just wanted to give you all a general starting point that will assist in getting you off to a good start.
To be honest, I connected my HD850 to it last night and with totally default settings, it was almost spot on. The 720p/768p/and 1080i settings were beautiful when in conjunction with the 7100. I was wowed at the increased black levels I received (visually noticeable difference), although I lost a little shadow detail (collars on black suits almost blending into the rest of the suit). That will change with further adjustments. One mistake I made was that I started with it hooked up via HDMI to DVI. half way through, I decided to try out the component ( I hacked the HD850 to upscale through component regardless of copyright) and just hooked it up with the movie and projector running. Switched the projector input to componenent and the picture was even better (less grainy). I then pulled the DVI out of the projector without powering down, and lost all picture. I restarted both projector and dvd player with only componenet with no avail. hooking the dvi back up while running through componenet fixed it. No idea what went on there, but then 720p was not upconverting correctly. Every other setting was perfect. I am 90% sure it was a dvd player problem and not a projector problem. I think the player defaulted to the HDMI output since I hooked that up first, and then it wasn't running video through the componenet when that was only available. Odd thing is, it would still display 720p properly through the DVI input, but not through the component. It gave some banding at the top of the screen about 6" wide, and a blue line that showed up when the dvd first started at the very bottom of the screen. I'm going to figure it out for sure tonight, although I wouldn't worry about it being the projector. It wouldn't have displayed 768p/1080i/and 480i/p correctly if there was something wrong with it's on board processing. It's definitely not a product problem, it was a OE on my part.
Steve, PM me with your email addy and I'll send you a few screen shots.

richlo

10-21-06, 10:16 AM

Would the 7100 work with the OPPO 971's??

I am about to make a projector purchase, my 1st option is the Mits 3000, due to its great black levels, warranty (2 years), and price drop..but my other options are the Panny Ax100(but I am more a DLP), and then the 7100...

guitarman

10-21-06, 12:25 PM

I have some colorfacts numbers for the HD7100.

I used the Accupel to reference tune it. DVI 720p showed video level brightness crushed out so I tuned PC level brightness. Here's what I got.

Brightness -11
Contrast 18
Sharpness Normal
Gamma 2.2
Color temp 6500k

White balance
R Gain 1
G Gain 0
B Gain1
R Bias 0
G Bias 0
B Bias 0

Not much on the white balance was needed because OTB 6500k 2.2gamma tracked extremely well.

GrapeNuts

10-21-06, 12:36 PM

Guitarman,
I can't use those settings as that high of a contrast setting makes the image too grainy and superimposed. and brightness at -11 is too dark.
I noticed two seperate "out of the box" viewing experiences depending on which DVD player I used. The first was tinted very green, and I used the settings from Projectorcentral.com's review because they experienced the same. That pretty much gave me the picture I was looking for. when I switched to the HD850, it was almost spot on. I changed the red gain to -1 and offset to -1 and kept the settings from the previous dvd player and did the trick.
In my experience now, DVD players make a difference on the out of the box experience. I'll try all of the settings you used this evening with the HD850 since it didn't have the green tint and I'll let you know if that worked out for me.
Thanks,
Adam

EDIT: Tom, I tested those settings, and although they don't look very good on my older sony dvd player, it worked out well for the HD850. I ended up going a little brighter (-8) but everything else I left as you had it. Looks good to me! Thanks for sharing your settings. My previous settings are still the way to go on the Sony, but I'm going to use your calibration settings with the HD850 for sure. If the HD-A2 will work with the Optoma, I'll start out with your calibration settings as well.

FGM

10-22-06, 08:45 AM

I can't figure a way of saving my settings on contrast, brightness, sharpness when using ISF Night. At the beginning of each session the previous settings are gone and I have to start all over again. Any comments/help?
Thanks

CowboyCurtis

10-22-06, 06:54 PM

infx708

If you go to Carada Screens website, look under FAQ for screen size, you'll find a viewing "viewing distance from the screen" calculator. You're going to need a bigger screen than 92".....MUCH BIGGER. But that's good! I think I'll increase what size I had in mind from 110" to 118" with a 14' viewing distance. Guitarman, how's that sound? I know Grapenuts and dustinst22 are on board with that.

GrapeNuts

10-22-06, 10:05 PM

Cowboy, Go here to decide best screen size and distance for the HD7100
Or just go to Optoma's site, but this is a great tool. I know I love big productions, but make sure you get a screen with a gain high enough to accomodate an image that large. Probably 1.5 will do the trick with the 118" size with 13'10" distance.
http://www.projectorcentral.com/Optoma-HD7100-projection-calculator-pro.htm

Note that you can figure your ideal fL as well

CowboyCurtis

10-23-06, 01:34 AM

Grapenuts
With the HD7100 and the throw distance I'm allowed I can put up a big image. This website tells what the SMTE and THX folks believe are the optimal seating distances from a given screensize. Since I already know what size of screen I can utilize (from a throw distance perspective), this tells what their subjective opinion is as to how far I should optimally sit from a 118" screen. They don't take into account variables such as RBE and SDE that are particular to a given projector type. I don't see RBE. Wth a 118" screen they recommend sitting 13.2' away. I think to avoid any SDE I'll sit 14.5' back.

http://www.myhometheater.homestead.com/viewingdistancecalculator.html

GrapeNuts

10-23-06, 08:40 AM

Cowboy,
Sounds good. I wouldn't worry about SDE from even 13.5 ft away. if you're not sensitive to RBE (I'm not either) I doubt you will have worries. I would make sure you have a screen with a decent gain, but other than that, this projector is pretty bright, so you'll be just fine.

David Cox

10-23-06, 10:05 AM

Looks like you guys that have recently purchased the HD7100 are getting along without the probems experience by others. That's good news. I want the projector, but I'm also thinking I'll just save a bit more and get a Mitsubishi HC5000. Tough decision. Argh.

FGM

10-23-06, 10:53 AM

Some users have posted that they get better PQ with through component than through DVI when playing DVDs.
I was curious and have tried it myself. I have a Zenith DBV318 DVD player that can output 480p, 720p and 1080i over component and DVI.
Since I got the HD7100, intuitively, I have connected it at 720p for DVD playing it through DVI thinking that it was the way to go.
Yesterday, I tried the component connection at 480p and 720p and surprise, surprise, the picture was perceptibly cleaner (of low level noise, I think); therefore, much nicer to my eyes. There is a drawback to this, though, a fine line of light points shows in the upper limit of the picture. I get this line on both 480p and 720p. I have not yet tried 1080i. Has anybody had this line when playing DVD through component? Any advice as to how get rid of it?
Thank you.

GrapeNuts

10-23-06, 12:31 PM

FGM,
Do you have both your DVI and component inputs hooked into the 7100? if so, try taking the DVI out, and making sure your dvd player is sending through component and not just by default. Mine gave me problems with both hooked up at the same time because it was trying to send out 720p/768p/1080i through the DVI by default instead of componenet which was what I wanted. That resulted in an interlacing problem and the resultant blue light at the bottom of the screen.
It works flawlessly now.

GrapeNuts

10-23-06, 12:32 PM

Dave,
Don't wait too long, you'll get analysis paralysis and will end up waiting forever!

FGM

10-24-06, 09:34 AM

GrapeNuts,
Thank you for your comments. I do not have both DVI and component connection at the same time.
I have used the Zenith DVB318 on component for a couple of years mainly with an X1 and an Optoma H27 with great results. Briefly, I had the DVD player connected to a couple of Infocus sp7205 on component and both gave the same line of light points on the upper margin of the picture.
I will try to read through the DVB318 thread to see if this is a known problem with this player possibly with some 720p native projectors.
By the way, I have tried your posted settings of the Green gain and offset to -1 and -2 respectively and it has made a positive change to the PQ. Thanks.
Do you have any suggestions as to how to save all settings under ISF Night?

CowboyCurtis

10-24-06, 12:29 PM

How is the 7100 for processng SD signals? If it does not have a Faroudja processor what does it have? I would assume that if you're running dvds thru an upconverting player the internal processor in the 7100 wouldn't have much influence.

GrapeNuts

10-24-06, 01:26 PM

Curtis,
It's an Optoma Designed processor. after reading your post, I was interested as well, so I called Optoma and they are going to get back to me with which Chip they use. Obviously, the 7300 uses the external Gennum Scaler, which is superior.

CowboyCurtis

10-24-06, 03:39 PM

Thanks Grape. Let us know what you find out.

Still a little foggy as to what difference the internal processor would make if your input is from an upconverting dvd player or H20 direcTv box, both of which I assume would already be doing the heavy proccessing.

GrapeNuts

10-24-06, 10:49 PM

The processor in the projector either deinterlaces or interlaces the signal depending on which signal the dvd player sends. It is basically changing the signal no matter what. I'm not positive about a 720p signal sent to the 7100 though since it's native is 720p. I never did receive my call back from Optoma. Jury's still out on that one.

sethk

10-25-06, 01:11 PM

Projectors are progressive devices and will never interlace a signal, only deinterlace it if it came in interlaced. Progressive resolutions that are not native will be scaled. Native progressive resolutions may be processed for noise, color or edge artifacts but that's about it.

FGM

10-25-06, 02:54 PM

DVI or Component, which gives better PQ?
I have tried both at 480p, 720p and 1080i with the Zenith DBV318 and surprisingly, component seems to consistently put out a better/cleaner picture. I thought that DVI would give a better PQ since there are fewer scaling/AD steps and the projector get a digital signal.
Please share your experience with us.
Thanks.

CowboyCurtis

10-25-06, 07:50 PM

GrapeNuts

10-25-06, 10:14 PM

Both 1080i and 720/768p look great. Really very little difference between them from what I can see. I could be making it up in my head, but I get the feeling that there are a bit more artifacts showing up in 1080i....as if it was more unforgiving of less quality video. DVI vs. HDMI vs. Component....there is NEVER one answer that will be true for all devices. Some DVD players will look better through component instead of DVi/HDMI. For me, my samsung looks better through Component, and my Denon looks better through Digital connections.

guitarman

10-25-06, 10:31 PM

Fairly new projector. It either uses Pixelsworks or Ti 1chiip solution. Both stellar. Ofcourse neither do inverse telecine for HDTV. Only the HD7300 with the VXP scaler will get you that.

David Cox

10-25-06, 10:41 PM

Guitarman,

Are you still enjoying your DWIN? I thought I was going to get one myself, but after reading a few of your posts comparing the DWIN to the HD7100 I thought I'd go with the later. Has your opinion changed recently or does the HD7100 still come out ahead of the CRT?

FGM

10-26-06, 10:21 AM

Did you notice a difference between the 720p and the 1080i from your Zenith? The 7100 has a native of 720p so not much to do there, but if you're feeding it 1080i I guess the scaler has to process it back to 720p, another step. I hope you're going to say, "no difference in PQ, scaler works fine".

With the Zenith I like the 1080i through component best and yes, the HD7100 scaler works very well; however, I hate the picture cropping that results(fault of the Zenith)

My quest is to get opinions that would help me determine if the PQ of the Zenith at 1080i (component) can be improved with a budget up-converting DVD (Oppo/???) through DVI connection either at 720p or 1080i.
Any takers?? Please.

eXgo

10-26-06, 06:49 PM

well, i got my HD7100 today. and it the picture looks great.

the issues i have with it is that it doesn't sync natively to either of my htpcs.

on one it is very crunched. and on the other it is 1280x1024.

this is gonna be a long couple months. i can tell.

i think i am going to use my htpc#1 on my sp5700, and the optoma on my hda1, and htpc#2

k, i forced it to pal res on one, and got it to go to 720p, on the other.

looks great. but all i got to watch is uncompressed mpeg 720p feeds. hd lite.

lost looks good.

FGM

10-27-06, 09:07 AM

GrapeNuts

10-27-06, 10:02 AM

The componenet of the Samsung, now that I have made an adjustment on it (thanks Tom) gives a more forgiving picture- by that I mean that it will diplay a lower quality image without a lot of grain. And the blacks seem to be darker with the samsung. The denon produces an excellent picture through both (less difference between component and DVI/HDMI compared to the samsung differences). Overall if I had to choose which did a better job A/B wise, I'd probably have to go with the Denon. Although the blacks don't seem as deep and dark (this may also be a Player configuration I need to adjust) as the samsung, on good quality video, the picture is superior. at 720p On dvds with less quality video, it will display more grain and artifacts than the samsung at the same output. Note that the 1080i on the samsung produces the grain and artifacts on the lesser quality video as well. I know I didn't really just give a flat "this is better than that" answer, but the truth is they have their own individual pluses and minuses. Denon DVD players are quality, and it shows with the good video quality dvds. Hope I helped a little.
EDIT: I didn't think of this argument before, but if we are talking price/performance...the Samsung is a good upconverting DVD player at a small fraction of the cost.

eXgo

10-27-06, 02:00 PM

has anyone else had sync issues for native res over VGA, ? i am going to try DVI, hope it is better.

GrapeNuts

10-28-06, 09:18 AM

Negative on the sync issues under any connection type for me. I've tried them all and they have been fine. I've also used cables under 15 ft for each as well, so that may be one reason why.

eXgo

10-28-06, 12:01 PM

^^hmm, i tried my maya upscale via dvi/hdmi, and it worked fine. then i tried via component.. whoa! what a difference. i am lucky i can upscale via comp.

but as far as my HTPC's are concerned. i am just going to use them on my 576p pj.

and my SD/HD on my 7100.

until i get the gall to re-install windows catered 1 driver at a time for my new pj.

damn, looked outside. there is like 3 feet of snow.. boooo.

steve morgan

10-28-06, 12:03 PM

ok i have my new projector whats up with the owners dvd is this for my computer?

bill1908

10-28-06, 12:07 PM

ok i have my new projector whats up with the owners dvd is this for my computer?
Steve it is for your computer. But there are many places to download manual (optomausa.com) where you can then print out.

eXgo

10-28-06, 12:40 PM

Negative on the sync issues under any connection type for me. I've tried them all and they have been fine. I've also used cables under 15 ft for each as well, so that may be one reason why.

lol, I am using a 25ft+ vga cable. that could be why I have bad sync issues, and ringing in the picture.

ty Grapenuts.

o2besane

10-28-06, 02:24 PM

Just got my 7100 but I'm still in construction, so I probably won't see it for a couple of months. My question of the moment is: About the max I can get my eyeballs away from the screen is just a hair over 10'.
Would a 100" screen be pushing it or would a 92" be better?
Also, I can control most of the ambient light. With a budget of $1500+/-, what would be a good screen (motorized)? It's going to drop in front of a Sammy 71" DLP.

Larry G pure novice

eXgo

10-28-06, 03:01 PM

i did a da-lite clone DIY, it is big. and wicked gain. for one that matches it in stores it is 2000+ it costed me 500 bux to build.

carada makes good screens that don't cost an arm and a leg.

CowboyCurtis

10-28-06, 05:58 PM

o2bsane
My 7100 arrived yesterday. But like you, my home theater is a ways from being ready to show an image.

RE your screen size question, if you use the conventional wisdom of 1.5 times screen width to arrive at minimum seating distance it looks like 92" (80" width)is your screen size. However, a darkchip3 pj is supposed to have less SDE and RBE so a 100" screen may be in your future. A good person to talk to about this is David Giles at Carada Screens. I've got a Carada BW on order now and it's the main item I'm waiting for to get the HT finalized.

o2besane

10-28-06, 06:20 PM

eXgo And CowboyCurtis,

Thanks for the info. I went to Carada and they are a fixed frame and mine has to roll up. Any other suggestions?

Larry G

CowboyCurtis

10-28-06, 06:34 PM

Dalite and Elite are well spoken of over on the screens forum. I wouldn't think you'd need the Dalite High Power model. A lot of people love it but it has a restrictive cone of viewing in exchange for the brightness. With your budget you can get a great screen and have $$ left over.

FGM

10-30-06, 10:01 AM

I do not seem to be able to save any picture settings once I turn the projector off. Pls. help.
Thanks.

eXgo

10-30-06, 01:38 PM

when you change settings make sure u are using Custom1, or Custom2

then the settings are saved.

FGM

11-01-06, 09:37 AM

when you change settings make sure u are using Custom1, or Custom2

then the settings are saved.

Thanks, it works!!
So, basically we just have 2 memory positions at our disposal, Custom 1 and 2. However, I find it peculiar that settings under Normal and the ISFs can't be saved. Since we are all different and our installations are different as well, how would Optoma figure that Normal, ISF Night, etc could be of use to us w/o the capability of saving our specific settings. Go figure
I project from about 10' onto a 92" GrayWolf in a room w/o lights but with clear walls ceiling and floor and use the following setting (still tweaking with Sound and Vision disc):
Brightness: -18
Contrast: +6
Colour: -9
Tint: -3
Sharpness: softest
Colour temp: 6500
Gamma: 2.2
Green Gain: -1
Green Offset: -2
Mode: econo
I found that the settings posted by other members helped me a lot to arrive to these settings under Custom1.
It may be just me, but I still find that the same settings under ISF Night give a different, better balanced picture.
Have you guys tried playing a bit with ISF Night? What are your settings?

upnorth

11-01-06, 05:03 PM

Calibrated using Colorfacts

96" Goo Systems Digital Grey Screen
Oppo DVD player upconverting to 1080i over a 30' Better Cables DVI to HDMI cord.
Ambient light nil in darkend room, flat painted walls
Projected from 10 feet using about 1/4 vertical lens shift and slight horizontal lens shift.

These are the final settings and results achieved by using the Spyder Pro2 light meter facing the projector versus the screen. I used the Avia disk for my IRE test patterns and to check contrast ratios and foot lamberts post calibration. I also verified my results with the Get Grey disk.

I turned the light meter around to face the projector and got much more accurate results. This method also allowed recording of the lower light levels at 10IREand 20IRE without giving me an out of range error. I still had to raise the red gain up to +18 to achieve accurate results of 6507K at 80IRE. I adjusted the x value by +1 at 6500K and left the y value alone as it was near perfect at .329 which resulted in about 0.31265 for x.

Custom 1 Setting[U]
Brightness = -4
Contrast = +14
Color Temp = 6500K
Sharpness = Sharp
Gamma = 2.2
Color Temp X value = +1 adjusted at 80IRE
Color Temp Y value = 0 adjusted at 80IRE
White Balance =
Red Gain +18, Green Gain -1, Blue Gain -1
Red Offset +4, Green Offset +6, Blue Offset +3
All color tracking from 30IRE to 80IRE within 15 points on 6500K with 10IRE off by about 200points and 20IRE off by about 75 points 90IRE off by about 500 points and 100IRE off by about 1400 points, due to Red running out.
Achieved Contrast ratio = 3,763:1
Foot Lamberts Achieved on100IRE window = 11.1

Still teaking and playing, and also trying to figure out the best settings for this projector. Have tried other settings and calibrating with some of the other color temps, but so far this is the best yet. I can achieve an over 4000:1 contrast ratio if I (a)move the light meter back further from the screen or (b)give up a more accurate color temp and grey scale. Tom recorded over 4:000:1 in his calibration of this projector. Other reviews I have read sighted contrast ratios anywhere from 3500:1 to 3700:1, so I feel I am there with my calibration.

Tom how did you manage over 4,000:1, was it by my (a) or (b) method, and or am I missing something to achieve an even higher contrast ratio than I am getting now?

guitarman

11-01-06, 05:40 PM

upnorth

11-01-06, 06:06 PM

Is your projector leaking light?? If I had one complaint about this projector it would be the small amount of light leakage. Not from the case on the side walls, as this would be tolerable and acceptable. It is instead from the lens itself and shows up on the screen as a slightly lighter area from the top right hand corner to about half way down the side of the screen in my case on darker viewing material and in night scenes. I do not feel that a projector in this price range should have this issue at all, despite Optoma assuring me that this is acceptable and within factory tolerances. They are in the business of making projectors which project an image on to a screen; this should be as good as and at as high a standard as possible. It is like saying that your new car will drive fine on the worn out treads that came with it. Sure it will, but in a rain storm or in snow look out, and do not take that corner to fast!! Anyway I digress; it is a flaw that I have seen on other projectors as well, so alas not all is lost on the Optoma. My first DLP projector had light leakage really bad, but with a little tape taming it learned to behave itself. I have derived my own solution to this annoying problem; it’s called masking!! I mean literally placing black electrical tape in strategically placed spots on the lens itself masking out the nasty light leakage. This works very well and if done right will not affect the brighter scenes. It looks a little odd when the lights are on, but who watches movies with the lights on anyway? The end result is all the matters and this method works. You can and I have tried other ways of accomplishing this, but I always go back to the black electrical tape, as it is easier and quicker to do. So be careful and take your time. I just wish Optoma had placed some sort of device either mechanically or digitally on this projector to do this for me. Something like the digital shutter on my old Hitachi PJTX200 projector, this worked great for reducing grey bars on letterbox movies. This is just my two cents worth. Other than this small self fixable issue the projector works perfectly, projecting an image on my screen which is the best that I have had in my home theatre to date.

I will include some pictures of the taped lens and some screen shots soon. I promise, as I had promised in the past to do the very same but never got around to it for various reasons.

upnorth

11-01-06, 06:29 PM

Tuned to D65k my best point is tuning the black level to the exact point where the dithering in blacks is off. It takes practice, you go up close to the screen bobbing around looking for that sweet spot. You might pick up Sound and Vision HT tuning DVD becuase their pluge pattern is easier to work with. With this type of Pluge you delete the left moving bar, then start looking for the zero dither point.
My CR measurment was sensor 3' away from the lens. On another try with the meter at normal viewing distance same settings, I got 5700.1

I get a more stable reading when tuning further away. The numbers just don't bounce around like they do when you have the meter ontop of the lens. Greg Rodgers does his CR readings at the further distance, someday I'll call him and ask why.

Tom

I have the Sound & Vision Disk as well, I will verify with this one too. I do however feel that the Get Grey disk works great for this purpose and wonder how this other disk could provide any better results, but I will give it a go, based on your recommendation Tom.

Are my settings way off comparative to yours or did you find a need to raise the red gain up fairly high as well in order to get proper tracking at the higher IRE levels? Can I assume you tuned yours using 6500K to start? Have you tried tuning with the native color temp setting?

I took my contrast reading from 12 inches away from the screen, with the meter facing the screen. If I move the meter further out than that then I too get contrast ratio readings of + 4000:1, like I mentioned in my previous post. Why the dramatic increase in contrast at further distances, beats me. You should speak with Greg and ask why, very curious as to the reason for this.

eXgo

11-06-06, 02:07 PM

rking401

11-06-06, 02:12 PM

I finally got around to putting a picture up of my installation. It can be found here: http://www.pbase.com/rking401/image/69561841 The source is a Dish 942 HD receiver. The picture is actually a composite, the screen having been shot in a short exposure and then overlayed in place on a longer exposure of the room. This way the majority of the total system can be seen. To get a BIG image go to the bottom of the page and click on "Original"

eXgo

11-06-06, 02:28 PM

rking401

11-06-06, 05:42 PM

It's a naked DIY screen using using Parkland Plastics laminated to a 1/8" masonite board and framed with 2x2 lumber painted black. Cost less than $100.00. I haven't had a chance to play with any coatings at this point.

Calibration is by eye, no test gear or discs, yet.

Confiscated60

11-06-06, 06:39 PM

rking401,

Is the projector really that bright with so much ambient light? Or is the pic edited to look that way?

eXgo

11-06-06, 07:04 PM

rking401,

Is the projector really that bright with so much ambient light? Or is the pic edited to look that way?

i doubt he would have edited it
mine is bright in ambient light 2...

rking401

11-06-06, 07:30 PM

rking401,

Is the projector really that bright with so much ambient light? Or is the pic edited to look that way?Take a look at my post where I mentioned the picture and you will see that I did a composite. I'll post the original picture this evening and post here again when I get it up, so to speak.

rking401

11-06-06, 07:37 PM

Here ya go. This is still with a light on in the room, and a fair amount of ambient light. It's the picture that I used to grab the screen for use in the composite. http://www.pbase.com/rking401/image/69828294

Confiscated60

11-06-06, 10:10 PM

OK, that makes sense. I thought that image was really bright considering the brightness of the room.

According to the projector manual, this projector doesn't have much vertical offset capability. It seems the vertical lens shift allows just over 50% of the vertical image size, placing a ceiling mounted projector just slightly above the top of the screen at its maximum lens shift. Is this correct?

I'd like to ceiling mount this projector, but it appears the mount has to pretty much be within screen height vertically...essentially no offset. Anyone ceiling mounting this?

GrapeNuts

11-07-06, 08:38 AM

For a 100" screen you can go 4" over or under the screen. I have a 110" screen and when the theater is drywalled, I will be mounting it as close to even with the top of the screen as possible. You can go to 4.5" on the 110" screen. The HD-81 is the projector with 0 offset from what I understand

rking401

11-07-06, 09:10 AM

Mine is ceiling mounted and the center of the lens is about 1/2" above the top of the screen. Screen size is 98".

afcooper

11-07-06, 10:08 AM

I ordered my 7100 yesterday from Visualapex. Due to arrive Friday. One of the dealers I called said the 7100 was discontinued! But then he didn't know about the $400 rebate continuing to the end of the year eather. I have a new screen, an OPPO DVD player, and cables on the way too.

eXgo

11-07-06, 11:51 AM

^discontinued? that has to be bs.

it just came out like 7 months or so ago.

my sp5700 was out for like 3 years before it got discontinued.

GrapeNuts

11-08-06, 07:25 AM

Where did you hear that? my dealer sent his stock back and replaced it with the HD-81, but he didn't mention anything about it being discontinued. That would be the shortest run in history for a kick *ss projector if it's true.

FGM

11-08-06, 09:14 AM

hi,

I am having a bitch of a time trying to calibrate my pj.

can any of you guys recomend any equipment/dvds i can use to calibrate it.

the darks on some of my dvds are way too dark. in the dark scenes.

thanks

rod

I use the THX Optimizer DVD for setting contrast and the Sound&Vision DVD for brightness, tint and saturation.
Depending on your room/light, screen and distance conditions you can use some of the posted settings in this thread as a starting guide.
Good luck.

afcooper

11-08-06, 10:45 AM

B&H photo-video mentioned that it had been discontinued while they were searching for the rebate they never found. Visualapex were much more plesant to deal with. For the extra $50 they were asking, you atleast get an extended one year warantee. Wish it had been a bulb warantee though.

My AVIA disk is 4:3 screen size. Will I have any trouble using it to calibrate the 7100?

I also want to thank FGM for his comments about his X1 and 7100. They were very helpfull to me since I couldn't find a 7100 locally to compare.

quattro32

11-08-06, 12:46 PM

Hey Guys!

Soon to be a happy owner... (I have an H77, this will be family's pj)

HT Projectors highly respected site run by Andrea has posted a review of SIC DC3, Europe's HD7100 under a different name. It's only in Italian for now as he has not updated his English version. He said it's an awesome machine in the league of PE8720!

I remember Guitarman being the lonely reviewer who thought this was an exceptional pj, no more :D
It seems from the research I've done that Europe has been onto this machine for quite some time (3 generations) and it has won awards in UK, France, Germany and others from their HiFi magazines for excellent optics and quality of image.

Italian HT forum did a review of the older HD2+ machine vs. Optoma H79 and it kicked butt, they got so excited they asked Andrea to do the review of the newer DC3 machine :)

Cheers!

rking401

11-08-06, 04:04 PM

wdps34

11-08-06, 11:25 PM

I don't think there was ever any doubt about the picture produced by this projector. It is fabulous, to say the least. Any negative type comments, including mine, have been about reliability and problems out of the box. I love my HD7100. Not only does it provide a great picture, but it was a plug and play replacement for my X1. I simply installed it in the EXACT same spot the X1 had been occupying, which, along with the picture, made me quite happy. :D

rking401
I will be getting a hd7100 in the beginning of December to replace my sp4805, which i believe is very similar to an X1. Did u get a bigger screen size at the same location? what mount did you use? Our Infocus(x1 , 4805) mounts wount work will they? Also has anyone heard of this model,Hd7100, being discontinued? i know B&H are not very reputable and may have said that to sell another projector.
Woody

rking401

11-09-06, 12:15 AM

I had a 4' high 3:4 srceen with the X1 and replaced it with a 4' high 16:9 screen with the 7100. I built a home brew mount using plexiglas and an old loudspeaker wall mount (Vogel's VLB-100) that I had sitting around here from an old job. The old mount that I had for the X1 didn't work because the mounting holes are different spacing. I had a home brew mount for the X1 also using plexi and black pipe. I didn't want to do the black pipe because of the increased weight of the 7100 and the fact that mounting and dismounting to the pipe was very ackward. I built the mounting plate (the plexi piece) then started digging around for something to replace the pipe and found the old speaker mounts. The problem is that I have two speaker mounts and only one projector, so I guess I need to buy another projector. :lol: I'll try to post a picture or two of the mount later. I have a few somewhere on this computator someplace. By the way, the InFocus mount might work if it is an adjustable mount that was not designed only for use with the X1/4805. The 7100 has three mounting holes in the top just as the X1 did, just with different spacing. The 7100 plate ended up being considerably larger.

rking401

11-09-06, 10:14 AM

THe ceiling mount pix can be found here:
http://www.pbase.com/rking401/image/69951287
http://www.pbase.com/rking401/image/69951289
http://www.pbase.com/rking401/image/69951319
Here's the X1 screen from the same mounting position:
http://www.pbase.com/rking401/image/37139492 (excuse the ceiling fan in the way)

I still have some cable management to handle.

rking401

11-09-06, 10:31 AM

Another shot of the screen from behind the projector. Shot at about 10:30 AM with lots of light in the room and no editing of the picture (aside from rotating and resizing the file).
http://www.pbase.com/rking401/image/69952315

afcooper

11-10-06, 11:01 AM

I was reading the manual for my new OPPO 971 DVD player which lets you set up video parameters - Sharpness, black and white level, saturation, truelife, CCS, and noise reduction. What are the best settings for these to best work with the 7100 since I assume some of these things are also set by the 7100 as well. My 7100 was supposed to be delivered today, but was delayed untill Monday. Dang!!!!!!! Sure wanted to play with it this weekend.

eXgo

11-10-06, 12:06 PM

i have got a monster DVI to HDMI for my HDa1 and my 7100, and it handshaked 2 out of the three times i tried it.

good enough for me.

Even tho it works just fine over component for HD-DVD, It is nice that it aint too bad over HDMI, at least for me.

i recently heard down the line that the Flags are going to be in effect circa 2010.

so we got some time :)

quattro32

11-10-06, 02:52 PM

OK, I got a used HD7100 for my folks and played with it last night to see how it would compare to my Optoma H77.

Optoma H77 has around 100 hrs on new bulb. Hd7100 has around 600 hours on it. My H77 has latest C17 firmware, but not the panning upgrade. Still, I consider it for all intensive purposes very close to H79 in color decoding, optics, noise level and overall image quality. H79 is brighter, but the point is moot since my bulb is almost new and H series dims fast after 200-300 hours.

Both have been calibrated, HD7100 professionally, H77 was too, but not on the new bulb. Still, the colors on both are very close, so I think the color shift from the new bulb can't be that great.

Running Oppo in 720p via 12ft DVI cable. Shooting onto 106" 2.35 matte white screen 1.1 gain from 13 feet. Typical living room, not a bat cave, but zero lights, all curtains closed.

I have seen calibrated Ruby's, Qualia, Sim 3 chipper and 1 chipper on Greyhawk RS in studio conditions, Panny 900, + owned H57 Optoma before.

I am very sensitive to rainbows, can spot them on all except 3 chip DLPs. I have a simple test, how red are my eyes after watching a movie :D

I watched all the standard classics, I am a movie guy so don't care how these look on TV signals, my RPTV does that job.

My observations (on material I know well):

Colors in HD7100 in dark scenes are more saturated. Star Wars 3 opening scene, blue torpedoes are stronger and more defined than H77, closer to Sim 3dlp level.

Reds are very strong as well, overall slightly greater sense of depth to the image.
I can see better shadow detail (buildings, stairways etc.) but not a huge difference (nice to have though)

My H77 is a bit brighter than HD7100 with 600 hours, but not by much. It shows up in bright scenes (sunny disposition) :)

Panning, I expected to see a lot of difference here. Compared to my HDTV Sony 34" CRT they all have a long way to go... Edge goes to HD7100, very smooth on vertical pans, less so on horizontal. Slight blurring on the famous bicycle scene from Spyder 2.

Dark image noise is greater on HD7100, H77 looks very clean in that regard.

Screen brightness uniformity goes to H77, nice even level across, HD7100 has a slightly brighter upper left corner. This is not noticeable while watching movies, only on blank black screen.

Optics, no contest, HD7100 has superior lens, which really shows on small text which is clearly visible and readable. It does not give me eye strain that H77 does when reading. I also prefer the manual adjustment of the HD7100 focus, it seems more solid, I never felt motorized focus got it right...

The way optics translate into watching movies is that H77 appears more film like from closer viewing image as the image blends and is smoother. Once you move away another 2-3 feet on my 106" screen the HD7100 becomes smooth as well, but with retained sharpness and clarity of the optics! (I guess a softer lens is a bit like Panny smooth screen technology)

Noise level, Pj's are directly over my had about two feet, I can't see them being mounted any closer... H77 is quieter no doubt, however, HD7100 does not get in the way of watching the movie, it's noisier, but the noise is low pitch and not bothersome. Sure H77 level is nice, but no big deal for me.

Rainbows! This is a big one for me and I sold my H57 for that reason (4x 6 segment) I find this to be the downfall of the single chip DLPs. Still I don't find LCDs are there yet in overall image to give me an alternative in the $$$ 3K segment.

HD7100 is NOT a 4X color wheel machine! There were discussions on HD7100 being inferior due to 4x 6 segment wheel. The merits of 7 or 8 segment wheels with dark green can be discussed at length (Cine4home has best technical on it in German), but a 6 segment wheel with enhanced reds has it's own advantages. The wheel on HD7100 spins at 300Hz which at 60Hz translates into 5X speed not 4X.

This is confirmed by my observations as it's on level if not a bit better that H77. For me this is a big deal, for people who are not sensitive maybe not.

All in all, I think HD7100 is an impressive machine. If you want a long throw pj H7X series is probably the way to go (2.35 lens setup), for short throw this is the one. I mounted both in the same place. My H77 at max zoom throws same image as the HD7100 zoomed out.

If you have a H7X series and like it, I'd keep it, if you are looking for a 720p DC3
machine and have some choices this would be at the top of the list.

Furthermore, I have not tested it yet, but I will, Hd7100 accepts 48Hz input in film mode, and it does not slow down the color wheel speed of 300Hz, this would translate into 6x color wheel.
If that is true and it further reduces rainbow effect this would make it very special machine indeed!!! (That's why Metavision cht728 in Germany is advertised as 6x 6 segment machine)

Cheers!

BaN

11-13-06, 05:06 PM

To those who own the HD7100 with the Toshiba HD-A1 player, has the issue been resolved yet? I'm thinking about purchasing the HD7100 but my main player is the HD-A1. This is a major hurdle for me.

dustinst22

11-13-06, 10:15 PM

Not that I know of....I've been using component connections without any issue. This is a killer projetor.

eXgo

11-13-06, 10:44 PM

the problem is trivial, i watch all my hd content with component.

looks killer indeed.

HDMI does work....

just not very consistently.

like i have stated before, i use the hda1 for HD, and a good upscaler dvd player for sd.

works like a charm.

on a side note... the Sammy BD player works great with dvi/hdmi cable

afcooper

11-14-06, 11:02 AM

Got my 7100 and OPPO 971 up and running yesterday. I am very impressed.

Can anyone reccomend a good thread or site that gives a clear and detailed description of calibrating a projector and DVD player? I really want to get the best performance out of this outstanding equipment as possible. I do have the AVIA disk, but have never done a full calibration.

Thanks

eXgo

11-15-06, 08:04 PM

well my frackin lamp died at 90 hours.

i am pissed.

i was just watching it. and it flicked off. now all i hear is a buzzing noise around the lamp area when i turn on.

ffs.

mystery

11-15-06, 08:58 PM

I hope it was still under warranty. :(

Wayne

eXgo

11-15-06, 10:14 PM

yup, still under warranty, this pj is under 30 days old.

with a dead lamp under warranty... how does this work.

do i just get a new lamp in the mail? or do i have to send my unit?

sethk

11-15-06, 11:08 PM

Does the 7100 really display 48hz input at 6x?

mystery

11-15-06, 11:56 PM

eXgo,

Check with your vendor. Your unit is so new, they might want to just hot swap you a brand new one. If your lamp actually exploded, I'd demand a new unit. It might depend on whether the seller has any lamps in stock. Tell them either way you don't want to wait so you'll take either a new lamp or a new projector right away. Under 30 days is not acceptable at all for this to happen.

Let us know how you make out. :)

Wayne

eXgo

11-16-06, 01:07 AM

I am calling my vendor tomorrow. I looked up their policies, and they say under 30 days.... they will fix.. but there is alot of fine print and stuff. we will see.

I will keep you guys posted.

rod

GrapeNuts

11-16-06, 08:11 AM

db13

11-16-06, 12:18 PM

That's horrible news Exgo! Sorry to hear about that. Rare to see a projector blow lamps that early unless there is something else going on in the unit, or it has been shaken while installed. The bulbs burn out much faster if it has been stirred up a bit. Did you get it from an authorized dealer? I did, so hopefully the 3 yr warranty will keep me from singing the blues too early. So far so good!
Please let us all know how you made out. Hopefully you'll be back up and running in no time at all

Exgo,

My bulb blew at around 90 hrs. The day my bulb blew, my projector was on for about 9 - 10 hours straight while watching a day of football. I spoke w/ tech support and they said the projector was not really designed to run that long and to make sure it had excellent ventilation if I were to continue running like that. It could've been a bad bulb or the fact I ran it too long. Anyone else run their projector for extended periods of 8+ hours? And, does anyone think attaching an external fan could help?

Thanks,
DB

eXgo

11-16-06, 02:00 PM

Thanks for the nod's guys :D

I phoned optoma and they said they will issue me a new lamp.

all i have to do is send the lamp in.

hopefully in about a month i should be back in buissness.

I also hope that is all that is wrong with it.

back to the sp5700 for now..

rking401

11-16-06, 03:26 PM

Exgo,

My bulb blew at around 90 hrs. The day my bulb blew, my projector was on for about 9 - 10 hours straight while watching a day of football. I spoke w/ tech support and they said the projector was not really designed to run that long and to make sure it had excellent ventilation if I were to continue running like that. It could've been a bad bulb or the fact I ran it too long. Anyone else run their projector for extended periods of 8+ hours? And, does anyone think attaching an external fan could help?

Thanks,
DB
I run mine for 8 hours+ at a time on a regular basis and have had no exploding bulb problems. I did have problems with two projectors that were returned to the dealer and exchanged, but the exchange was smooth and prompt, thanks AVS.

quattro32

11-16-06, 09:13 PM

mystery

11-16-06, 11:10 PM

Hi Mike,

I like to follow the adventures of Optoma projector owners. I'm on my third different Optoma model in a row now. :) Yup, you're right. My H78 is going on a 1/2 year old now and I'm still thrilled with it. I even think it's getting better. ;) I traded in my H57 for the SpyderTVPRO calibration tool. I've never had better flesh tones.

Wayne

afcooper

11-19-06, 10:52 AM

I have had my new 7100 + OPPO dvd player setup for 6 nights now. The settings suggested here got me into the ball park, and an AVIA calibration has the picture looking really spectacular. Other video junkies are amazed. The out-of-the-box picture was unbelievably bad. Why do the reviewers say it is so terrific?

Last night I also accidently found out that there is no confirmation needed to do a factory reset. And my nice Home Theater Master MX-500 learning remote refuses to learn the direction navigation commands, making it worthless to use with the PJ.

No problems with the PJ so far.

Axe2005

11-19-06, 01:31 PM

Hello i am on my second 7100 and it has variance between the left and right side screen brightness, as did the first one. Since they both looked the same I thought this was a 1 chip dlp limitation. But after reading this thread it seems the brightness should be even across the screen. Can someone with a 7100 tell me if on a white screen if it looks bright all the way across, on mine the left side looks dull and the right side glows. I can also see on regular viewing people on the left look less colorful and dimmer on the left, and are colorful and bright on the right. The projector is shelf mounted, have tried moving it left and right, lens shift, always brighter on the right. Just to know this is not how it is supposed to look will make it easier to send in and not worry about getting it back still dim on the left side.

afcooper

11-19-06, 02:47 PM

The brightness of my picture looks uniform top to bottom, and side to side. Could it be your screen, since you have had two PJs do it?

Axe2005

11-19-06, 03:08 PM

I was using this screen a 1.0 dalite damat with my ae900 and it looked ok. Just in case I projected on my wall and same brightness problem appeared. What it looks like is the most light comes from the bottom right corner and gets the most dim at the top left corner. If the brightness is supposed to be uniform like you say I guess I have got 2 problem projectors in a row. Hopefully it is easy to fix.

FGM

11-20-06, 09:10 AM

Mine throws a pretty uniform picture from corner to corner. I have a retoreflective screen and I think it would magnify differences in lighting if there were readily noticeable.
Would your source have anything to do with this?

FGM

11-20-06, 09:29 AM

Does the 7100 really display 48hz input at 6x?

Yep, had it going at 6x on Pal DVDs that I have from Europe via Oppo 50Hz mode 2:2 cadence.
I have Bravo on the way to enter custom 48Hz 720p resolution to enjoy no judder and no rainbows :D :D :D

I decided my H77 is going to my dad, this is WAY TOO GOOD OF A PROJECTOR to give away...

I think Marantz and HD81 are the only pj's that spin at these rates, but can they do 48Hz? I don't know...

Hey Wayne, what are you doing on the HD7100 forum, aren't ya H78 dude :D
(Your old H57 pal...)

Oh, BTW HD7100 uses Osram P-VIP 250/1.3 bulbs, same as PE7700 Benq and myriad others.... They are made in Czech. I think quality control is variable on these, different batches.

Mike

Quattro,
What Bravo model are you getting?
Do you think it will improve on the PQ from the Oppo? I have never seen rainbows on my projector.
By the way, what Oppo model are you using?
I wonder if the HD7100 would benefit from a DVD player with good DVI output as compared to component. I have tried both with my Zenith DVB318 and component gives a nicer picture to my liking; however, the Zenith is known to have a better component picture compared to its DVI.
Any comments on what is/are the best DVD player/output for this projector?
Thanks.

afcooper

11-20-06, 10:45 AM

I have the OPPO 971 running through the DVI and component cables that came with the OPPO, about 3', so I can switch back and forth easily. The DVI looks better on NTSC disks, but with PAL it has a lot of noise that doesn't come through on component. I am running the native resolution to the PJ and letting it rescale. I am very happy with the OPPO.

quattro32

11-20-06, 12:27 PM

I would have to second that. DVI is the way to go with this pj. I have no noise on my pal discs, so I'd have to say that here DVI works for me too. I run Oppo on Mode 2 to ensure 2:2 cadence. Also greyscale tracking is better through DVI.

I have had Zenith for a few years, I was pretty disappointed with it. I am getting Bravo D1 from newegg on clear out. Silly deal! I don't expect much difference in quality to Oppo, maybe a bit sharper (Oppo is supposed to have a bit more "film" look due to lesser edge sharpening), however I am pretty fussy about smooth pans and motion. My H77 was not the greatest in that regard.
48Hz should help a lot with that, hence the Bravo with custom resolutions. Plus I get the benefit of the 6x color wheel.

If anyone wants to test just run Spyderman 2 DVD, the scene where he drags the bicycle back by the posters, how does it look on your HD7100? The faces will smear a bit, not as bad as my H77 though...

The screen uniformity seems to be common thing on this PJ, reviewers noticed it as well. Maybe because it uses a prism in optical path, maybe short throw?

It does not affect my viewing, however. At the end of the day, this thing with good transfers is gorgeous!
BTW 700 hrs and going strong :D

Axe2005

11-20-06, 01:15 PM

I use both component and dvi, component to hda1 and dvi to Oppo. On a white screen left side looks dull and increases in intensity till the right side where the white glows. Seems like most of the light starts at the bottom right corner. On my Oppo main blue dvd screen, right side is easy to tell that its brighter. The built in menu of the 7100 by itself goes from dim to bright from left to right.

rking401

11-20-06, 03:03 PM

I have very uniform illumination of the screen and am very pleased with the overall picture even though I have a home brew screen. I posted pix of a screen shot earlier in this thread. They can be seen here: http://www.pbase.com/rking401/my_home_theatre Take a look and see if you notice the problem you are describing. The picture of the fellow with the guitar doesn't count. :D

Axe2005

11-20-06, 04:29 PM

After seeing that picture rking401 I will be sending mine in. The words on the bottom of the screen would start dim and get brighter if that picture was displayed on mine. So will report back after i get it back, thanks everyone.

vanart

11-21-06, 04:24 PM

Anyone had a chance to compare the optoma hd 7100 to optoma hd 7200!?!?
I wander whether it worth the upgrade!?

afcooper

11-21-06, 05:13 PM

sethk

11-22-06, 10:49 AM

Anyone had a chance to compare the optoma hd 7100 to optoma hd 7200!?!?
I wander whether it worth the upgrade!?

Optoma HD7200? Where do you see that? Can you provide a link to any information regarding it? Are you sure you're not talking about the HD72?

vanart

11-22-06, 04:24 PM

sorry, you are right, it is indeed hd72!!
So anyone had a chance to compare 72 to 7100!?

FGM

11-22-06, 05:35 PM

Lamp start up problems revisited

Something like this has been mentioned before, but I didn't understand the explanations then either. When source select is set to manual, the lamp lights, but I only get a black screen, even if I manually select an input that I know is active. After a little time, the lamp goes off, the high speed fan comes on, but the blue light on top stays off. Some times I get one flash of the light and the lamp fires up again, and usually I still get a black screen. I will eventually get a picture, after manually selecting an active input, but not always. If I have AUTO set for the input search, this does not happen (yet), and I get a source and picture from the get go.

Any one know what this machine is doing? I hate to have my lamp wear out prematurely from having to strike 2-3 times when I start up. Meantime, I will keep it on auto search.

Thanks

I have mine on manual source select and when I turn it on, the lamp lights up but the bulb intensity is quite low and surprisingly the screen remains black, then, when I manually input the source (component), almost immediately but not quite, the lamp goes on higher intensity mode and illuminates the screen and several seconds later the screen will be at full intensity. The peculiar part is that when I had it with a DVI source (same dvd player), the projector would identify the source right away by itself and light up accordingly.
On my projector, the lamp has never gone off in manual star up process and the fan has always remained in low speed (I have the projector on low intensity mode).
I do not understand the process but it is consistent and seems to work well for me.
What kind of input source(s) and picture setting do you have with yours?

eXgo

11-22-06, 09:53 PM

Optoma HD7200? Where do you see that? Can you provide a link to any information regarding it? Are you sure you're not talking about the HD72?

there is a hd7300, it is bascially a hd7100 with a external scaler.

raminolta

11-22-06, 10:51 PM

Hello,
I would like to know how you would compare HD7100 to other projectors you have owned or heard concerning the noise level.

I see the specification says 32dBA. I am wondering if this is the noise level in bright mode or eco mode (or both?!)? My personal experience is i wouldn't want having more than 28dBA noise level.

I appreciate your comments which helps me making my mind. I am thinking about other DLP DC# projectors: Samsung 710AE which is 28dBA is reasonably quiet in eco mode but it is already not equally bright; BenQ PE8720, Optoma H79 and H78DC3 are certainly quieter but more expensive. Deals on HD7100 can be found for $2100 around, $2200 for the Samsung and $2800-$3200 for the BenQ, H78 and H79. Hence the latters are quite more pricy.

I do need lens shift and do want DC3 so HD72 or even the upcoming HD73 are out.

Thanks, Ramin

FGM

11-23-06, 10:01 AM

Hi, Ramin,
In my experience (no noise measuring tools), in low brightness mode, the HD7100 is much quieter than the Infocus SP7205 and quieter than the SPX1. If I remember well, it is a bit noisier than Optoma H27 w/o AI but quieter than H27 with AI.
I seat with the HD7100 about 1-1.5 ft above my head, on an open mounting shelf, and I am not bothered at all by its noise; actually, I completely forget about it every time.
I was concerned too with the reported noise levels of this projector but I am perfectly happy with it. I could not put up with the noise of the SP7205 but I could tolerate the X1. I was happy with the H27.
Ramin, the good deals you mentioned are with or w/o Optoma's rebate?
Good luck with your choice.

quattro32

11-23-06, 10:09 AM

Noise level is rated at 29db in eco, I had wisper quiet H57 and H77 (same as H79) It is louder but not by much and I have it mounted right above my head.

Samsung is not dimmer, calibrated it puts out better lumens than HD7100 although not by much.

H79/78 are discontinued so prices should be ~2K used.

PE8720 is the way to go if you want the bragging rights, but IMHO HD7100 is the dark horse of the bunch with 48Hz input and 6x color wheel. I'd love to compare it to a well setup PE8720, I know testers in Europe have and found it to be right up there.

FGM

11-23-06, 10:20 AM

Ramin, by the way, if lens shift is important to you, check the online manual (pg 22 of 64) for the capabilities of this projector:
Maximum vertical shift is +13/20 of the screen height (V) above and 1/2 V below.
Maximum horizontal shift is 3/40 of the screen width either side (about 7.5% either side) WHEN NO VERTICAL SHIFT IS IN USE. This maximum horizontal shift capability decreases rapidly as vertical shift is present and it becomes nil when you are at the max vertical shift.

FGM

11-23-06, 10:32 AM

Quattro32,
Have you received the Bravo D1? What are your first impressions? Any better than the Oppo?
I wanted to purchase one of those but the suppliers listed by Froogle do not ship to Canada or even to a US address when the purchaser is in Canada. Go figure.

afcooper

11-23-06, 11:03 AM

FMG--I have only run it in manual mode 3-4 times. At first with the lights on low, and didn't notice any picture from the PJ. Started turning the lights off so I could watch what happened, and a very dark Optoma screen comes on for a few seconds then goes to black and starts the input search. It will find the DVI input and go on from there. My lamp is very dim at first, and takes several minutes to reach full output. I have DVD and Comp 1 connected from an OPPO, and Comp 2 and Svideo connected but not turned on. Other than auto search, what picture settings concern you?

RAMINOLA--I had an X1, and with no sound track on, I could hear the fan distinctly, even though it was ceiling mounted about 7 feet from me. With the 7100 in ECO mode, no sound track, I can't hear the fan at all with it sitting next to me about 3' away. When in cool down mode after powering down, the fan is rather loud for a few minutes.

quattro32

11-23-06, 12:05 PM

raminolta

11-23-06, 02:10 PM

Thanks for the information. Lens shift is important for me but i don't need a lot of that. I will have the projector on a back shelf with rolling wheels and i checked the lens shift of HD7100 is more than enough for me. It is the vertical shift that matters most to me.
Ramin

Ramin, by the way, if lens shift is important to you, check the online manual (pg 22 of 64) for the capabilities of this projector:
Maximum vertical shift is +13/20 of the screen height (V) above and 1/2 V below.
Maximum horizontal shift is 3/40 of the screen width either side (about 7.5% either side) WHEN NO VERTICAL SHIFT IS IN USE. This maximum horizontal shift capability decreases rapidly as vertical shift is present and it becomes nil when you are at the max vertical shift.

raminolta

11-23-06, 02:33 PM

Specifications mention H27 as 28dBA. So i guess, AI brightens up the lamp hence speeding up the fan to cool it down. May i know what your experience is with AI. Is it useful? Do you normally have it on or off?

Thye deals are after rebate from US dealers. The least i have found in Canada, is C$3000. I am still looking around if i could find a better deal. Right now, there is a dealer in Ebay selling Samsung for $2200. He even accepts best offers. So it is quite tempting. Only problem, the Samsung is rated at 700lumens. Besides, i am not sure of their customer service. I know Optoma has an excellent customer service.

I am also wondering how obviously does color segment and wheel affects the performance? I once had the chance to try a H76 and i admit, i am not sensitive to rainbow but, i would like good color performance and contrast.

Ramin

Hi, Ramin,
In my experience (no noise measuring tools), in low brightness mode, the HD7100 is much quieter than the Infocus SP7205 and quieter than the SPX1. If I remember well, it is a bit noisier than Optoma H27 w/o AI but quieter than H27 with AI.
I seat with the HD7100 about 1-1.5 ft above my head, on an open mounting shelf, and I am not bothered at all by its noise; actually, I completely forget about it every time.
I was concerned too with the reported noise levels of this projector but I am perfectly happy with it. I could not put up with the noise of the SP7205 but I could tolerate the X1. I was happy with the H27.
Ramin, the good deals you mentioned are with or w/o Optoma's rebate?
Good luck with your choice.

raminolta

11-23-06, 02:44 PM

You are right. Samsung 710AE is brighter! I was only paying attention to the manufacturers' brightness quote while, it seems the actual brightness performance is better measured with ANSI brightness. Projectorcentral measures and mentions these brightness in their reveiws. I checked those of Samsung, Optoma HD7100 and some other projectors and found out Smasung is brighter than HD7100. Optoma H79 is also brighter than HD7100. To my surprise, my my current Hitachi PJ-TX200 rated at 1200lumens is dimmer than all of the above three!

I am looking around for a used H78/79 and if i find one for $2k, i will but it. I don't like waiting too long since my LCD projector is on sale right now and it will go away within a coulple of days . I don't like being left without a projector during the holidays; neither my friends would like it! ;)

If i can not find a used H78/9 at a good price, i will choose between HD7100 and Samsung 710AE. Similar or close in most aspects: pricewise close, darkchip3, similar noise level, V+H shift lens, resolution. Both are raved at Projectorcentral's reviews for their image performance.

I know Optoma has a great customer service. However it offers one year warranty only.

Samsung offers two year warranty.

Contrast: Samsung is rated lower but, projectorcentral's review mention it is as contrasty as many 5000:1 projectors (like when its brightness is under-rated).

MY main concern now is that short-focus lens of HD7100. It requires the projector being very close to the screen. Actually it works fine in my current small living room. I can put it on the back shelf as usual and at it minimum zoom, it tight fills my screen. However, i am concerned about when, in the future, i will move to an apartment with longer living room. I do not want to ceil-mount it somewhere in the middle of the room having a bunch of cords travelling from the projector to the AV shelf rack.

I feel more trust in Optoma though i don't know why!

Hard decision, Ramin

Noise level is rated at 29db in eco, I had wisper quiet H57 and H77 (same as H79) It is louder but not by much and I have it mounted right above my head.

Samsung is not dimmer, calibrated it puts out better lumens than HD7100 although not by much.

H79/78 are discontinued so prices should be ~2K used.

PE8720 is the way to go if you want the bragging rights, but IMHO HD7100 is the dark horse of the bunch with 48Hz input and 6x color wheel. I'd love to compare it to a well setup PE8720, I know testers in Europe have and found it to be right up there.

raminolta

11-24-06, 06:54 AM

Well, actually i don't know why i thought Smasung 710AE has darkchip3? The specification only says DLP™ HD2+ DMD! Is this dc3 or
dc2?I would want dc3.

Another issue: many 710AE units have had serious start-up problem and quick deaths!

So, i guess my choice is not very restricted to HD7100 among DLP, DC3, lens shift in sub $2500 range!

You are right. Samsung 710AE is brighter! I was only paying attention to the manufacturers' brightness quote while, it seems the actual brightness performance is better measured with ANSI brightness. Projectorcentral measures and mentions these brightness in their reveiws. I checked those of Samsung, Optoma HD7100 and some other projectors and found out Smasung is brighter than HD7100. Optoma H79 is also brighter than HD7100. To my surprise, my my current Hitachi PJ-TX200 rated at 1200lumens is dimmer than all of the above three!

I am looking around for a used H78/79 and if i find one for $2k, i will but it. I don't like waiting too long since my LCD projector is on sale right now and it will go away within a coulple of days . I don't like being left without a projector during the holidays; neither my friends would like it! ;)

If i can not find a used H78/9 at a good price, i will choose between HD7100 and Samsung 710AE. Similar or close in most aspects: pricewise close, darkchip3, similar noise level, V+H shift lens, resolution. Both are raved at Projectorcentral's reviews for their image performance.

I know Optoma has a great customer service. However it offers one year warranty only.

Samsung offers two year warranty.

Contrast: Samsung is rated lower but, projectorcentral's review mention it is as contrasty as many 5000:1 projectors (like when its brightness is under-rated).

MY main concern now is that short-focus lens of HD7100. It requires the projector being very close to the screen. Actually it works fine in my current small living room. I can put it on the back shelf as usual and at it minimum zoom, it tight fills my screen. However, i am concerned about when, in the future, i will move to an apartment with longer living room. I do not want to ceil-mount it somewhere in the middle of the room having a bunch of cords travelling from the projector to the AV shelf rack.

I feel more trust in Optoma though i don't know why!

Hard decision, Ramin

FGM

11-24-06, 10:06 AM

Hi, Ramin,
I found the AI in the H27 useful and I used to have it on all the time; however, I found it hard initially to get used to the changing noise of the fan as AI kicks on. With the HD7100 I do not miss AI.
The Optoma HD7100 is warranted for 3 years parts and labour. If you pay with one of those credit cards that extend warranties you may getup to 4 years total at no extra cost.
Be careful with the Optoma rebate for it is only good/valid within the US.
In Canada Costco carries the HD7100 now at about that min. price you say you have found it plus , presently (until Dec. 3), it is offering a $300 CAN discount plus they include in the deal a Panoview 92" screen which I have and like. However, warranty at Costco is only one year, probably from Costco, which I understand means replacement or reimbursement for a year.

FGM

11-24-06, 11:02 AM

Bravo D1 should be here in a few days... I know it's a PITA with the shipping, aren't we just another northern state to them... I had my shipped from California to NY, across the border, $30 to ship back West, retarded!

Add a UPS address to your credit card and ship to "hold at location" An hour drive across the border for you, right? I have done that with 20K+ of goods...

I'll post my impressions, I expect smoooooooooth pans at 48HZ :D and no rainbows!

I have been reading the thread on the SP4805 and Bravo D1 and it appears that the HD7100 is a good candidate to take advantage of the custom resolutions of the Bravo as it has native and pixel to pixel mode and from your post I assume it also can do frame lock at 48HZ (don't know what that is). These 2 conditions are mentioned by member CAVU in that thread. However, it also seems that the HD7100 will not do a true 1:1 pixel map from a DVD since the HD7100 always displays at 1280x720. What is the actual benefit of custom resolution then and how does it relate to smooth pans?
I figure that if the HD7100 color wheel turns at 5X it will help to minimize RBE.
What is this 48Hz frequency that people talk about? Others also talk about 60Hz and 72 HZ. Do these frequencies have anything to do with the 60Hz frequency of our power lines?
Is there a layman's explanation for these issues? Anybody?
Thanks.

eXgo

11-24-06, 01:56 PM

the way i see it. the hd7100 is a HD projector. and it's best viewed content is

well.. High Def.. For me it is Dishnet HD, and HDA1. sure i use my upscale dvd

player but it pales in comparison. imo anyways. greater or matched content is

always nice, it looks beautiful watching dishnet HD. cuz they broadcast 720p

native.

and since i am waiting for my rma lamp. i am stuck using my sp5700 :)

for now....

raminolta

11-24-06, 03:20 PM

eXgo

11-25-06, 05:02 PM

are any of you guys using low gain 120" white screens? how do they look ?

mbonikow

11-25-06, 06:47 PM

I have a matte white screen around 110" 2.35 ratio (under 1.1 gain). I find the brightness acceptable. I would go to 1.3 to 1.5 gain for larger if I were you. It's a bright projector when the bulb is new, but as it ages you might run out of "calibrated "lumens" IMHO.

sethk

11-25-06, 08:21 PM

Although I haven't seen the HD72 and the HD7100 side by side, they are fairly different in look.

The HD72 is brighter overall (going by memory) but it is further away from being calibrated out of the box. I also don't like its AI mode much. Brilliantcolor IMHO is interesting but it's like a loudness button in audio components such as car CD players. Some people love it, I don't. The fully calibrated look isn't for everyone, some might like a slightly too warm look with emphasized reds. Contrast and blacks in a dark room are noticeably superior on the HD7100. It is also has less noticeable rainbows although I am not bothered by them on either projector. The picture looks sharper on the HD7100.

As far as the Samsung goes, it is a DarkChip2. It looks very good for a DC2 - better than the HD72, but it cannot match the HD7100 in contrast / black levels. It still appears to have equal or better shadow detail, but really this is a function of gamma. I use a HTPC to tune gamma to my liking sometimes changing it per movie. In my setup the real limitation is the dynamic and contrast range of the projector and in this instance the HD7100 would be superior. For a no fuss, no calibration setup, the Samsung is exemplary. Also for people with scalers and HTPCs, I hear the HD7100 is actually spinning at 6x when fed 48hz (which it does sync to.) For movies, multiples of 24hz if working perfectly look smoother in pans and fast movement.

The HD7100 has a 3 year warranty. Some forum sponsors here sell it with an additional years warranty as well.

steve morgan

11-25-06, 08:56 PM

are any of you guys using low gain 120" white screens? how do they look ?

i am running a 120" 16:9 1.2 - 1.3 gain matt white (actually it is wilsonart diy ) i had a bo cloth screen before witch is about .95 gain and there was a huge difference . i run econ mode light control and could not be happier . i don't miss my mitsu 65813 anymore. i will try and get some screen shots but it will take a while

raminolta

11-25-06, 09:46 PM

Have you calibrated your HD7100? Would you say one can have the same shadow details of the Samsung, with HD7100 if calibrated? I just purchased an AVIA disk and planning to calibrate my projector.

If all the projectors which use the same chip should result in the same picture, regarding depth, contrast, color, black levels, shadow details etc, then I am wondering why the reviewers give different opinons on projectors withing utilizing the same chip? HD7100, H79, BenQ 8720 and several other projectors have DC3. Do all of them produce images of the same quality?

Regards, Ramin

Although I haven't seen the HD72 and the HD7100 side by side, they are fairly different in look.

The HD72 is brighter overall (going by memory) but it is further away from being calibrated out of the box. I also don't like its AI mode much. Brilliantcolor IMHO is interesting but it's like a loudness button in audio components such as car CD players. Some people love it, I don't. The fully calibrated look isn't for everyone, some might like a slightly too warm look with emphasized reds. Contrast and blacks in a dark room are noticeably superior on the HD7100. It is also has less noticeable rainbows although I am not bothered by them on either projector. The picture looks sharper on the HD7100.

As far as the Samsung goes, it is a DarkChip2. It looks very good for a DC2 - better than the HD72, but it cannot match the HD7100 in contrast / black levels. It still appears to have equal or better shadow detail, but really this is a function of gamma. I use a HTPC to tune gamma to my liking sometimes changing it per movie. In my setup the real limitation is the dynamic and contrast range of the projector and in this instance the HD7100 would be superior. For a no fuss, no calibration setup, the Samsung is exemplary. Also for people with scalers and HTPCs, I hear the HD7100 is actually spinning at 6x when fed 48hz (which it does sync to.) For movies, multiples of 24hz if working perfectly look smoother in pans and fast movement.

The HD7100 has a 3 year warranty. Some forum sponsors here sell it with an additional years warranty as well.

sethk

11-26-06, 10:15 AM

Have you calibrated your HD7100? Would you say one can have the same shadow details of the Samsung, with HD7100 if calibrated? I just purchased an AVIA disk and planning to calibrate my projector.

If all the projectors which use the same chip should result in the same picture, regarding depth, contrast, color, black levels, shadow details etc, then I am wondering why the reviewers give different opinons on projectors withing utilizing the same chip? HD7100, H79, BenQ 8720 and several other projectors have DC3. Do all of them produce images of the same quality?

Regards, Ramin

Well, IMO, gamma is a preference, not a calibration standard. While there are some recommendations for the gamma curve (2.2 is a commonly used curve,) I think the actual gamma that looks best in a room is highly dependent on the room and reflected and ambient light, the screen and color of the walls, etc, - and the source which is a point that's not made too often. Most people don't like to fiddle with their gamma, but some movies are just mastered badly with lots of murkiness and noise in the dark areas (which are difficult to MPEG compress well.) I have a lot of RGB + gamma presets on my HTPC which I can activate or cycle through with the click of a button on my remote, and I can change other settings as well, such as the strength of noise reduction for SD sources, which might not be as easily done by other people without a HTPC and some HTPC expertise. I've also found that the different inputs need to be calibrated differently - component vs. HDMI, for example, or it could be the sources are different, and I mean that going beyond just setting the right video levels.

But to make a long story short, in my use I have found I can get as much shadow detail or more out of a HD7100 compared the Samsung 710, but since I have more control with the HTPC, my calibration and tweaking is partially done with a HTPC, not just the pj, and so I can't speak as much for just the PJ, since I don't use it that way, other than saying the out of the box settings lose some shadow detail over the Samsung, even though the blacks and contrast are better.

Also as far as using the same chip, it doesn't quite work that way - although life would be much simpler if we could just choose a pj based on the chips or panels used. The entire optical engine (lens, controlling light scatter internally, DLP wheel design and control, etc) makes a big difference to the amount of light and contrast and the colors that come out of the projector, even when using the same DLP chip. Additionally, the processing applied for DLPs makes a huge difference - each projector chooses the DLP control and video processing chips they think will work best in their design but then go beyond to "program" the chips, if you will, to define its behavior and performance. It's really somewhat of an art.

FGM

11-26-06, 10:33 AM

Yes, i have seen the deal. Regarding the Cosco sale, one problem is the distsance between the av shelf and the screen in my small living room is 3.6m. In this distance the HD7100 minimum image size exceeds the Graywolf screen that it is coming with! That means i have to move the projector from the back shelf, use a ceiling mount and install it somewhere more towards the middle of the room which is already very small!
Another solution: forget about the Graywolf and use my current custom-built white matte screen which covers the distance.

I am wondering what your experience is with the Graywolf screen: If you had a white normal screen before, how do you compare them in a perfectly dark room? I always watch movies at night when all lights are off. The wall facing the screen is covered with very dark curtains. The other wall is exposed brick. So it remains one light-painted wall and a white ceiling.

Thanks, Ramin

For a 92" 16:9 screen, the HD7100 manual sets the min/max distances to 2.8m to 3.5 m, from the lens to the screen. So, you may be able to get the projector within these distances by moving the projector forward a little within the shelf, by installing the screen a little further away from the existing wall or by a combination of the two. Keep in mind that the sscreencan't be flash with the wall, and if needed, you may easily increase the distance to the wall a little by intercalating wood mounting pieces between the wall and the screen, if that is acceptable to you.
You can also hang the screen from the ceiling anywhere you like.
To be most efficient, the Graywolf retroreflective screens need to receive the light from the projector from a position as close as posible to where the eyes of the watching people are. Ideally, you would place the projector right behind you a little over your head. A ceiling mount may be too high for these screens. Also, horizontally, the more you get away from the projecting point the more you loose the screen's 1.8x gain effect.
My room is far from perfectly dark because the floor, walls and ceiling are light colour, reflective surfaces. The Graywolf is a big improvement in countering the reflective light washout effect of the room; I love it. Also, it makes the blacks blacker and substantially improves the perceived contrast.
However, be aware that the screen has a texture to it that some people may object to.
Anyway, if you buy from Costco and do not like the screen you can always try to sell it. These screens are pretty popular. I don't think you can get them in Canada any lower than $300.
Good luck with your decision.

raminolta

11-26-06, 01:48 PM

Doesn't part of its contrast get lost, when you adjust HD7100 to show more shadow details? On my CRT monitors, i usually increase the gamma from 1.0 (the default) to 1.5 where i can see the difference between the last two blacks. Beyond 1.5, i start feeling the image gets washed out or loses contrast.

Well, IMO, gamma is a preference, not a calibration standard. While there are some recommendations for the gamma curve (2.2 is a commonly used curve,) I think the actual gamma that looks best in a room is highly dependent on the room and reflected and ambient light, the screen and color of the walls, etc, - and the source which is a point that's not made too often. Most people don't like to fiddle with their gamma, but some movies are just mastered badly with lots of murkiness and noise in the dark areas (which are difficult to MPEG compress well.) I have a lot of RGB + gamma presets on my HTPC which I can activate or cycle through with the click of a button on my remote, and I can change other settings as well, such as the strength of noise reduction for SD sources, which might not be as easily done by other people without a HTPC and some HTPC expertise. I've also found that the different inputs need to be calibrated differently - component vs. HDMI, for example, or it could be the sources are different, and I mean that going beyond just setting the right video levels.

But to make a long story short, in my use I have found I can get as much shadow detail or more out of a HD7100 compared the Samsung 710, but since I have more control with the HTPC, my calibration and tweaking is partially done with a HTPC, not just the pj, and so I can't speak as much for just the PJ, since I don't use it that way, other than saying the out of the box settings lose some shadow detail over the Samsung, even though the blacks and contrast are better.

Also as far as using the same chip, it doesn't quite work that way - although life would be much simpler if we could just choose a pj based on the chips or panels used. The entire optical engine (lens, controlling light scatter internally, DLP wheel design and control, etc) makes a big difference to the amount of light and contrast and the colors that come out of the projector, even when using the same DLP chip. Additionally, the processing applied for DLPs makes a huge difference - each projector chooses the DLP control and video processing chips they think will work best in their design but then go beyond to "program" the chips, if you will, to define its behavior and performance. It's really somewhat of an art.

eXgo

11-27-06, 05:08 PM

Ok, My Lamp should be here soon. and I am at about wits end with Digital Pjs..

When my Lamp arrives.... I am going to ride my PJ very HARD!, for the first 200 or so hours.

If it takes it. without lamp dying. I will keep it. If if dies. I am Converting to CRT and getting a Barco Graphics 1209/s with a max res of 2000x1500.

time will soon tell.

Flyhigh

11-29-06, 01:36 AM

Guys, I just hit 600hrs on my lamp. I've had the PJ since June. I've experienced a problem with the lamp not firing maybe 3 or 4 times over the last six months but twice in the last 2 weeks. Is this unusual? This is my first projector so I'm not sure if this just happens from time to time or is this a problem I need to look into further? Other then that, this projector is as bright now as when I first got it. The picture is still uniform throughout and I still can't believe the clarity in the picture that this projector puts out.

FGM

11-30-06, 10:21 AM

afcooper

11-30-06, 10:47 AM

Lamp ? problems again

I had lamp problems again last night. When starting the projector, it does not find a source despite having 2 active inputs, it projects a dark screen for about 2 minutes, the power indicator flashes once, the lamp goes off for about 2 minutes, the power indicator flashes once, the lamp goes on, some times it finds a source, sometimes it cycles through the above sequence 2 or three times before it finds a source. It will not respond to the manual source buttons on the remote during these sequences. This problem seems to happen only when the source select is set to manual. However, this time it seems that the projector switched from auto to manual on its own, because I had not reset it from auto! At first I thought the lamp was not striking at all, but this was only because I had some light in the room, and the PJ was so dim during all this process. With the lights off, it is clear that the lamp really is going on and off. I just filed a tech request with Optoma. The unit is just 2 weeks old. Hope I don't have to exchange it with the seller.

eXgo

11-30-06, 10:59 AM

This PJ has it's share of issues.

probably not why it isn't the most popular one of the bunch... even though it can hold it's own... and then some! -when it is operational.

just depends how much you run'er.

now on the other hand. My studio Calibrated sp5700. I am typing on right now.

is on it's 2600th hour. without a single issue to date.

FGM

11-30-06, 11:00 AM

Based on previous posts by Quattro32 I have found what appears to be the manufacturer of our "Optoma" HD7100: SIC Technology of Hsinchu City,Taiwan. Here is the link to them: http//www.sic-tehnology.com/main.php. Does anybody here know anything about them?
Their Cinema 2 Mark lll and the HD7100 look identical and specs seem to be the same as well. I wonder if they would answer technical/ performance questions.
Quattro32, can you point us to some of the reviews/forums on this projector that you have previously mentioned? I am interested even if they are not in English.
Thank you.

eXgo

11-30-06, 01:21 PM

- on a side note.

I am still dealing with Optoma for my RMA'd blub.

their customer service people are a$$holes.

they sent my new lamp to an entierly different place and then blamed me for it.

they said that I have to rectify the situation, and get UPS to send the package back to them.

now I call to see if they sent it out to the right place.... and they act all "cold" to me on the phone..

people with no phone voice and manners shouldn't be in customer service.

F optoma.

3 Strikes and your out.

quattro32

11-30-06, 01:33 PM

FGM

It's actually Chillin Electronics. OEM manufacturer. HT Projectors Andrea did a review recently. I like his calibration settings as well, they open up the shadow detail nicely. You have to go to Italian section of the site.

There are other avs type forums in Italy and Germany that did comparisons between the older HD2+ fitted machine and H79 as well the DC3 and PE8720. All of them very positive. This thing costs over 5K Euros in Europe BTW.

I managed to get some answers from the designer of HD7100 in Taiwan on things that were of interest to me, I think this thing offers some kick ass features not found on any other pj.

So far it has been very reliable for me. I think compared to many other machines this thing is in the ballpark, PE7700, H79/8/7, AE710 and others come to mind. Considering this has been in production for a long time and I have read none of the reports of failure in Germany, Italy and France, I feel this machine is as good as any.

I received my Bravo D1 last night, and had it running at 48Hz with custom settings on my HD7100. I watched I Robot DVD. The panning was smoother and more realistic than Oppo 971, it just felt more cinema like. After H77 I am more aware of how smooth camera movement adds to the realism of an action movie. The clarity and detail was stunning, to the point where I would put this machine against anything I have seen so far (except maybe Sim 3 chipper) I will do more testing versus Oppo.

I did get some dropped frames and glitches with Bravo, it's not as a refined product as Oppo IMHO. I will play with settings and do the cap mod to see if it helps.

The rainbows at 48Hz are practically non existent. I can read white text against black and move my eyes around without "sparks" flying around. The whole DLP red eye thing seems to go away on this pj at this point. It's pretty amazing for me :D

Cheers

Flyhigh

11-30-06, 08:22 PM

I have all of my sources (Directv receiver, Xbox 360, vcr) going into a Yamaha RX-V2600 receiver. The components go into the Yamaha via HDMI, component and composite respectively. They all go out to the projector via HDMI to DVI cable (25'). I'm using a Harmony 890 receiver over RF. One button turns everything on simultaneously (well almost actually). I never change the routine, it's always the same so I'm not sure why the lamp won't light sometimes. Maybe I'm incorrect in saying that the lamp won't light. I do see light emanating from the PJ but I get a dark screen, similar to what afcooper is experiencing 5 posts earlier. I will put a call into Optoma to see what they say and to get my name on the record in case it becomes a bigger issue later. I'll keep you all posted.

afcooper

11-30-06, 08:43 PM

Lamp ? problems again

When my lamp goes on, I actually get an Optoma screen for a few seconds before it goes very dark. It is not a video black, but rather a very dark screen with some slightly lighter vertical banding. Then the power indicator flashes, the lamp goes off as discribed above. I am not surprised that you don't notice that the lamp goes on as the screen picture is very dark, but the light leaking out of the case indicates the lamp is on, and if you look directly into the lens you can see a faint light. What source selection mode are you using-manual or auto?

steve morgan

11-30-06, 09:06 PM

FGM

12-01-06, 10:04 AM

afcooper

12-01-06, 10:23 AM

Start up/lamp problem

FMG-My PJ seems like it is behaving very much like yours. I found running in Auto source select works better, but the last few days it keeps switching back to Manual mode, even though I have confirmed the Auto setting just before I powered it off. Did it again last night, although It found my DVI source right away and came on fine. I always power on the source and make sure it is playing and douse the lights before I power on the PJ so I can see what it is doing. I would say it is definitely a software problem, but I sure don't like the idea that it is putting a lot of extra wear and tear on the lamp by restriking it so much. I am going to exchange it if Optoma doesn't come up with something good. :(

But what a great picture!

JackB

12-01-06, 11:16 AM

upnorth

12-01-06, 12:17 PM

I first turn the power on the line feeding the projector, source and audio receiver. Then I turn on the audio receiver and the source DVD player and then the projector which I have in manual mode.
The lamp in the pj lights up slightly giving out a very faint/no picture on the screen depending on the light level in the room, but there is always some light in the lamp case/assembly.
Then, I push the component 1 source mode on the remote and almost instantly the pj lamp lights up gradually to full intensity and from then on the pj works w/o a hick.
I find this behavior peculiar but since the lamp does not switch off by itself and always lights up fully when manually solicited, I assume this is the normal way the firmware works in this pj.

You can read my earlier posts on here as I was one of the first to receive this projector. The really old thread which was started on this projector was shut down, after it became personal; hence the warning at the top of the first page on this new thread.

Mine has done the same thing a few times with the first bulb, to the point where I actually sent my unit into Optoma to see what was going on with it. The supposedly fixed the problem by tightening a connection they thought was loose due to possible rough shipping and handling. I think they just made that up to cover themselves and they know full well that there is a problem with the bulbs firing and syncing issues over some connections on this projector. I got the projector back and within a week the projector bulb misfired again and the bulb was dead. I called them right away with my complaint, they said it was fine when they checked it and that the bulb warranty only covers 90 days. I say it a fault and a warranty issue which caused the bulb to fail and should be covered under my. I am now in discussions with them on this issue. I had a replacement bulb on standby, and installed the new bulb. Every thing was fine for about a week, but it now has had one bad strike on the new bulb. I am not pleased and do not want another bulb I purchased at $$$$ ruined by there reluctance to admit that this is a problem with this projector model.

You should always however start the projector up first and give it enough time to show its screen image, and then turn on your other equipment connected to it, it needs about 10-20 seconds for next command to work properly. You should do the reverse when shutting down your system. This does help with the signal recognition and may help in eliminating a few misfires. I too use the harmony 880 remote for my system.

Will keep you posted on my negotiations with Optoma.

upnorth

12-01-06, 12:19 PM

Perhaps this lamp firing problem and the other major complaint, the inability to sync stright up with the Toshiba HD-DVD player, is the reason the 7100 is now only sold as the 7300 with the video processor. The video processor probably handles the syncing problem properly.

Is this correct 7300 owners?

Jack

I think Tom mentioned back earlier in this thread or in the old one that the external scalar (VP) does help with sync problems and other issues. I think I just may have to purchase a scalar(VP) soon.

upnorth

12-01-06, 12:45 PM

I promised screen shots on my fix for the light leakage problem awhile back, so here they are. Keep in mind that while this method does not look that pretty the effect it produces is well worth it. In the dark who really cares what it looks like as you will never see it as not too many people look straight at the lens, and especially not when it is on!!

upnorth

12-01-06, 01:41 PM

Forgot the attachments to the previous post.

eXgo

12-01-06, 02:41 PM

You can read my earlier posts on here as I was one of the first to receive this projector. The really old thread which was started on this projector was shut down, after it became personal; hence the warning at the top of the first page on this new thread.

Mine has done the same thing a few times with the first bulb, to the point where I actually sent my unit into Optoma to see what was going on with it. The supposedly fixed the problem by tightening a connection they thought was loose due to possible rough shipping and handling. I think they just made that up to cover themselves and they know full well that there is a problem with the bulbs firing and syncing issues over some connections on this projector. I got the projector back and within a week the projector bulb misfired again and the bulb was dead. I called them right away with my complaint, they said it was fine when they checked it and that the bulb warranty only covers 90 days. I say it a fault and a warranty issue which caused the bulb to fail and should be covered under my. I am now in discussions with them on this issue. I had a replacement bulb on standby, and installed the new bulb. Every thing was fine for about a week, but it now has had one bad strike on the new bulb. I am not pleased and do not want another bulb I purchased at $$$$ ruined by there reluctance to admit that this is a problem with this projector model.

You should always however start the projector up first and give it enough time to show its screen image, and then turn on your other equipment connected to it, it needs about 10-20 seconds for next command to work properly. You should do the reverse when shutting down your system. This does help with the signal recognition and may help in eliminating a few misfires. I too use the harmony 880 remote for my system.

Will keep you posted on my negotiations with Optoma.

I am dealing with Craptoma now too, they are giving me troubles.. wont tell me when my bulb will be shipped. (again after they shipped it too the wrong place.)

it wouldn't be so bad if the "bad projector" had a good company (warranty issues) to deal with.

but bad company, bad pj... tsk tsk tsk...

afcooper

12-01-06, 04:12 PM

eXgo

12-01-06, 04:22 PM

Yes, I would say that it's fairly common.

spirithockey79

12-01-06, 09:26 PM

I just received my HD7100 a couple of days ago and I'm having problems with the pj converting to 720p or 1080i. All I get is 720 x 480. I have a Denon AVR-2807 and a Sony upconverting DVD (cheap player - but works fine). I've tried the DVI from the DVD player to the Denon and I've tried the component from the DVD player to the Denon - both with the DVI out connected to the pj. I don't have my HD Directv hooked up yet, so I'm just using the DVD player.

I've even tried the HDMI directly from the DVD player to the DVI on the projector. Nothing.

The picture at 720 x 480 looks great, but I'd really like to see 720p or 1080i.

Am I missing something?

Flyhigh

12-02-06, 02:31 AM

UpNorth,

You say to turn the projector on first for 10-20 sec and that you use a Harmony 880. Do you have an interval set in you activities on the Harmony to do this automatically?

kmathis

12-02-06, 09:25 AM

I purchased an Optoma HD7100 projector in June, 2006. A significant reason was the 3 yr. warranty and 2000 hr lamp life. Unfortunately, I had to replace the lamp after only 248 hours. I realize the lamp only has a 90 day warranty, but if I have to replace the lamp twice a year if will cost me almost $1000 per year to operate this projector. Hopefully my experience with the second lamp will be better than the first. However, I would hope given that the lamp lasted only about 10% of the projected life that Optoma would reimburse me for cost of the lamp.

Any ideas on how to get Optoma to reimburse me?

FGM

12-02-06, 10:15 AM

FGM

12-02-06, 10:31 AM

Start up/lamp prob;em

Does this problem of not starting up correctly and turning off the bulb happen on a lot of machines? I have seen several others having the problem post here, but only a few mention not having problems. Would be nice to know before I send it back for another.

As I have posted before, mine has never turned off the bulb. In manual mode, it just stars up by showing a very faint light initially until I push the component 1 source manually and then lites up fully w/o problems. In other words, it seems to start up in 2 steps.
If there is any user that in start up gets full light in manual mode before pushing the desired source manually I would like to know. Otherwise, I will assume this behavior is "normal" for this projector.
Thanks.

afcooper

12-02-06, 12:09 PM

FMG-Most of the time mine does not turn the bulb off, however it always starts in manual mode now, even though I set it to auto before I turn off the PJ. It always finds the source on DVI with out having to manually select it. It starts with a very dark Optoma screen for a few seconds, goes black with a message that it found something, and immediately brings it up.

eXgo

12-02-06, 03:28 PM

Well... Optoma finally sent my bulb to the right location.

Hopefully I will get it soon :) my sp5700 is getting old.

btw. Upnorth, you said that you use the Harmony 880. Do you have any issues with the HD7100? or with codes and such?

thanks.

rod

adk0212

12-02-06, 04:39 PM

My third 7100 just died. I'm averaging one every two months at this point. I'm getting tired of spending $70 to ship it back for replacement every time --sorta like a $35/mo projector subscription. This one does hold the record for most hours, roughly 420. The others never made it to 200.

Symptoms leading up to the complete failure were the same as the other units. For the first ~50 hours it works flawlessly, then starts occasionally exhibiting a very slight "flutter" in the brightness. This is easy to miss, but apparent if you bring up the menus. Switching econo mode off and on again fixes the brightness fluctuation for anywhere from minutes to hours. This problem shows up maybe once every 20 hours. Eventually it will begin having false starts where it fires the lamp, the lamp grows to full brightness, but the Optoma logo never displays. If you wait, it cycles itself once or twice (killing and re-firing the lamp each time) and eventually initializes ok. The final stage is a complete blackout in the middle of normal operation, after which the pj can no longer fire the lamp at startup.

My impression is that this is a firmware bug which results in radically shortened lamp life. The fact that the lamp fires but the firmware doesn't seem to notice (thus no Optoma logo) and then restarts it has got to be bad for lamp life.

spirithockey79

12-02-06, 06:18 PM

Make certain that your pj IS NOT in native/pixel to pixel mode and/or ensure that the DVD player is doing the upconversion.
Good luck.

FGM, the pj is not in pixel/pixel and I have the DVD set for 1280x720 and I've tried 1920x1080. Still everything shows 720x480.

rking401

12-02-06, 11:16 PM

As mentioned previously, I am on my third projector. The first two had problems out of the box that I discussed here previously (do a search of my previous posts). The third has worked fairly well and now has 865 hours on it. I still am never sure that it will come up on the proper input, but other than that "minor" problem I love it. I always keep my Optoma remote nearby so that I can select the input. I also use the Harmony/Logitech 880 remote with it. I really should put a "composite 2" "button" on the screen so I can put away the Optoma remote. All functions seem to work fine with the 880 remote, including proper sequencing of events.

adk0212

12-03-06, 11:22 AM

As mentioned previously, I am on my third projector. The first two had problems out of the box that I discussed here previously (do a search of my previous posts). The third has worked fairly well and now has 865 hours on it.
Have you experienced on your latest pj any false starts or the brightness flutter I described? Posts like yours give me hope. Since all three of my pjs have developed identical symptoms it certainly seems like I keep getting bit by a specific flaw which they should have corrected by now. The replacement pjs have a new sn sticker covering the old one, which may mean I'm getting a refurb instead of a new unit. At this point I'd be happy with anything so long as the lamp blew up from old age at 2000 hours instead of 200.

afcooper

12-03-06, 12:02 PM

adk0212--
Are they trying to fix the problem? If they are just replacing the bulb under the 90 day warantee, why are you having to send the unit in each time?

afcooper

12-03-06, 12:25 PM

adk0212

12-03-06, 12:37 PM

adk0212--
Are they trying to fix the problem? If they are just replacing the bulb under the 90 day warantee, why are you having to send the unit in each time?
I don't know exactly what it is they're replacing or fixing. As far as I know they're swapping out the whole pj, not just the lamp. That's what I want, because I'm pretty convinced the lamp itself isn't at fault here until the very end when it fails completely.

eXgo

12-03-06, 01:45 PM

On the subject of lamps

I read somewhere that it is possible to just replace the bulb instead of the whole lamp assembly at a considerable saving. I have not been able to find the article again, and I have searched these forums with no luck. Has anyone tried this, or know where I can get more information?

That would be the holy grail for us.

My friend was considering finding an alternative source for the lumens as well on his pj

wdps34

12-03-06, 01:46 PM

I am going to order a hd7100 this week. I am replacing a ceiling mounted (At 9'6" from screen) infocus sp 4805. I have component cables ran in the finished ceiling along with power. The hd7100 seems like the only choice to get a larger picture from that location. Do you guys think this projector is a good choice? I will be using component only from my upconverting yamaha reciever.

eXgo

12-03-06, 01:57 PM

rking401

12-03-06, 03:29 PM

Have you experienced on your latest pj any false starts or the brightness flutter I described? Posts like yours give me hope. Since all three of my pjs have developed identical symptoms it certainly seems like I keep getting bit by a specific flaw which they should have corrected by now. The replacement pjs have a new sn sticker covering the old one, which may mean I'm getting a refurb instead of a new unit. At this point I'd be happy with anything so long as the lamp blew up from old age at 2000 hours instead of 200.
No problems at all with the current PJ, other than the input situation, which I can live with. At this point I am very pleased with it.

wdps34

12-03-06, 05:41 PM

rking401,
how many hours trouble free on the new pj?

adk0212

12-03-06, 07:19 PM

Being plagued with identical failures over and over again, I naturally think it's a pj flaw, not some random bad lamp. I am curious, though, how other owners' usage patterns compare to mine. I run the pj roughly 4 hours a day on weekdays (one turn on/off per day) and 8 hours a day on weekends (also one turn on/off per day). This doesn't seem excessive to me, but this is my first pj so I have no benchmark. I could imagine having problems if I repeatedly turned the pj on and off, but one cycle per ~5 hours lamp time doesn't seem like it is excessive. What do other folks think?

mbonikow

12-04-06, 12:39 AM

AFCOOPER

Re: Lamps

I posted on this thread what lamp is used, just use a search function... Swapping a lamp only is a piece of cake, I have no idea why people don't don't do it. I've done it since I owned my H57. Two makers out there: Phillips and Osram in UHP 250 Lamps. Unscrew swap screw in. Watch your pj :D

afcooper

12-04-06, 10:04 AM

mbonikow-

Yes, your post was what got me thinking about replacing just the bulb again. Yesterday I found two suppliers that said there was little difference in cost for the bulb alone and the complete module. You got a ball park number for the price of a bulb alone? I searched for the one you mentioned and found it several places, but in modules rather than separately. Any of your experiences would sure be helpful! And appreciated!

mbonikow

12-04-06, 11:27 AM

You will find them regularly on Ebay under old Sanyo pj's or Benq and others. I will use my spare phiilips bulbs from H57 that are 250W. But if you want the exact model just keep your eyes open on Ebay. I've seen them go anywhere from 50-150, a lot cheaper then the 399 list. There is just a bit of leg work required :)

afcooper

12-04-06, 12:31 PM

Thanks, I appreciate your information. Will start looking on ebay. Could you post the ID of the Phillips 250W bulbs that work?

I turn my PJ on once a day, and run it for an average of 2 hours for movies.

Ray

FGM

12-04-06, 05:33 PM

On the subject of lamps

I read somewhere that it is possible to just replace the bulb instead of the whole lamp assembly at a considerable saving. I have not been able to find the article again, and I have searched these forums with no luck. Has anyone tried this, or know where I can get more information?

I am not sure this is what you mean, but this is a long thread with lots of info on replacing projector bulbs/lamps for less $$$$.
Link: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?postid=957306#post957306
Please let us know if you find something of interest to the HD7100 owners.

kmathis

12-04-06, 06:59 PM

Below is the email I received from Optoma today. 248 hours on the lamp - about 10% of what is advertised and all I get is sorry.....

Why would anyone buy a projector from a company that won't stand behind its product!
Hello,

Thank you for your email. Unfortunately, we are not able to reimburse you for the lamp. The lamp manufacturer provides a 90 day warranty rather than basing the warranty on lamp hours. I apologize that your lamp didn't reach the estimated number of hours. There are some things you can do to extend lamp life, such as making sure the unit is properly cooled and air is circulating around it. If it is ceiling mounted, the heat in the room tends to gather at the ceiling. Also, turning it on and off alot can reduce lamp life. And running it for more than 8 hours per day can also shorten lamp life. I hope this helps and I hope your new lamp lasts longer. Thank you.

Sincerely,

Warren Pierce
Customer Service Manager
Optoma Technology, Inc.
Phone: (888) 289-6786 ext. 3852
Fax: (408) 383-3701