Momo offers a thick 22 silver plated also.
I have used a 24 gauge 40' silver plated without issues if I removed the 6' that goes from the source to the hd3k. If your cable is the cheapest mono's that might be the culprit but don't know as a fact. Turn your signal select to manual also so it won't wander around different input lines.. I am using a 25' and no issues.

Mono sells between 28 -22 gauge. Mine is 24 gauge so it should be decent.

Mono sells between 28 -22 gauge. Mine is 24 gauge so it should be decent.

Apparently it is as decent as you think it is otherwise no issues.:) Just kidding!
I would try a short cable to rule out any basic issue.
Second I would go direct from the source if you have the HD3k in the chain.
Third I would use a different source to make sure it is not the source.

Last get one from bluejean prefereably 22 gauge and sell the mono.

I personally doubt it is happening. Unless your unit is absolutley out of wack.
The lens shift is so hard to move and has lock mechanism built in that would be near impossible to be moved unless the H-shift is not centered properly first. Even then v-shift dial cannot move the H-shift rather it just doesn't move. Another words one limits the other one depending where they are. Check it out before you send it out.


I can't believe we are all still talking about this... By a show of hands, how many people here who own the 7100, when moving the vertical lens shift adjustment knob, also get lens shift in the horizontal axis???

In my opinion, the vertical lens shift knob should activate the vertical lens shift mechanism, there should be absolutely no movement in the horizontal lens shift mechanism at all, ZERO!!! (I get no vertical movement when activating the horizontal knob.)

I'm reserving judgment on the focus as, like I said earlier, I really have no way of knowing if I do indeed reach precise focus. I might, it's just I can't tell because it looks to me like there is a range of knob movement that does nothing for the focusing adjustment mechanism, as far as I can tell.

My noise isn't so much as loud, although I was hoping it would be a bit quieter than my IN72 which it isn't, but the fluctuation and all the different noises coming out of it is what is bothersome. The image with my A2 HD DVD player is stunning, everything I hoped it would be.

I'm trying very hard to be able to accept this projector, but if my unit is making weird noises that it shouldn't be making at only 6 hours, it might be best to try to rectify it now rather than later, as well if my focus is functioning properly and EVERYBODY'S lens adjustments work like mine does, I have very little to complain about.

Please everybody chime in, do you get horizontal movement in your lens shift mechanism while working the vertical lens shift knob??? My image drops almost at a 45 degree angle to the bottom right when lowering the vertical lens shift! My projector is ceiling mounted (so it is upside down).

George

From a dead center on both horizontal and vertical lens shift, as I lower the vertical lens shift via the knob, my horizontal lens shift also moves to the right. Not by just a bit either, almost a 2:1 factor. So, for every two units of vertical lens shift, I also get one unit of horizontal shift. When I only dial the vertical lens shift down, my entire image now moves diagonally down and to the right.


George, this combined with your odd situation on focus, I would venture to say that your lens assembly is out of whack.

My vertical and horizontal shift were independent of each other, unless the horizontal shift was at one of the extremes, worked same on both 7x00 that I had. I never had a situation where the movement was anything near 45 degrees. I used the projector table mounted and ceiling mounted.

George, this combined with your odd situation on focus, I would venture to say that your lens assembly is out of whack.

My vertical and horizontal shift were independent of each other, unless the horizontal shift was at one of the extremes, worked same on both 7x00 that I had. I never had a situation where the movement was anything near 45 degrees. I used the projector table mounted and ceiling mounted.

Have to agree George. Yours sounds like it is broken.

(I get no vertical movement when activating the horizontal knob.)


That is because you have used max H-shift if not send it in.

H-shift is for minor cetering hence the pj has to be centered physically with respect to the screen within inches if you are heavy on V-shift. Once pj is installed correctly, use the V-shift to line up the imahe with your screen vertically. Then use the H-shift for minor horizontall centering. And that would only be possible if you have not used the entire range of V-shift. I hope it helps.

With no horizontal shift applied, vertical shift moves the image down perfectly straight (no drift to the right) on my unit. Once I max out vertical, I can't change horizontal without affecting vertical.

By taking the HD3000 and the extra 6' cable out of the loop my sync problem goes away. I've been watching the Tivo for 50 minutes without a single drop out.

So either the extra 6' of cable is the problem or the HD3000 is spitting out a weak signal. I'll do some more testing tomorrow but it makes me fell better that the projector is working fine.

That is because you have used max H-shift if not send it in.



CM, I think you are misunderstanding what I am saying. I'm NOT saying that I can not move the vertical adjustment knob while using the horizontal adjustment knob. I AM saying that when using the horizontal adjustment, there is no corresponding movement on the vertical axis (unless of course, I move the vertical knob). But, conversely, with every movement of the vertical adjustment knob, the image moves on the horizontal axis as well (with no horizontal knob adjustment).

George

And, I am nowhere even close to either extreme on either adjustment. Like I said earlier, I centered the projector to the screen and used the mount adjustments to get the projected image 'close'. Only then did I use the lens shift knobs for minute adjustments to get the image perfectly on my screen. After the many posts here regarding this, I went back and racked both the horizontal and vertical adjustment knobs back and forth to gauge their entire range of motion, then from one extreme backed off 1/2 the total range on both adjustments. This put both the vertical and horizontal adjustments somewhere very close to their centers. My image then was only off by a couple of inches in the vertical and less in the horizontal. Then I was able to center the image on my screen with only maybe 1/10 turn on the vertical knob and less on the horizontal.

By taking the HD3000 and the extra 6' cable out of the loop my sync problem goes away. I've been watching the Tivo for 50 minutes without a single drop out.

So either the extra 6' of cable is the problem or the HD3000 is spitting out a weak signal. I'll do some more testing tomorrow but it makes me fell better that the projector is working fine.

Try to reverse the order of the cables if possible. Run the 35 ' to the hd3000 from the tivo and the 6' from the 3000 to the pj. It looks like the tivo can drive longer lengths of cable. A rule of thumb to use when buying cables is as the length increases the guage should decrease so as to cause less signal drop.

OK Caspian,

So I have the scaler in line. Can you give me some basic adjustments that you are using to start? And again, do I set the PJ itself to zeros across the board? Or should i keep my settings on the PJ as they are?

Thanks,

bdbaba

By taking the HD3000 and the extra 6' cable out of the loop my sync problem goes away. I've been watching the Tivo for 50 minutes without a single drop out.

So either the extra 6' of cable is the problem or the HD3000 is spitting out a weak signal. I'll do some more testing tomorrow but it makes me fell better that the projector is working fine.

Now you know your HD7300 is fine.:)
I say you need a very short high quality jumper and long HDMI.
To make sure that HD3k is fine use the 6' to connect it to the pj with no signal. Just turn the HD3k on and see if you get the pj sync to the hd3k.

Try to reverse the order of the cables if possible. Run the 35 ' to the hd3000 from the tivo and the 6' from the 3000 to the pj. It looks like the tivo can drive longer lengths of cable. A rule of thumb to use when buying cables is as the length increases the guage should decrease so as to cause less signal drop.
That is a good test.

OK Caspian,

So I have the scaler in line. Can you give me some basic adjustments that you are using to start? And again, do I set the PJ itself to zeros across the board? Or should i keep my settings on the PJ as they are?

Thanks,

bdbaba

I will post some detail later.
I use the 6500 color temp on the pj with some tweaks there on RGB.
On the scaler mostly I have tweaked the primery and secondary color.
Also i set the color temp on the hd3K at standard, film 3:2 pull down, sharpnes at 3 no edge enhance some edge masking. With some darker material I use B&W boost (2 or 3) which is basically luminance boost.

CM, I think you are misunderstanding what I am saying. I'm NOT saying that I can not move the vertical adjustment knob while using the horizontal adjustment knob. I AM saying that when using the horizontal adjustment, there is no corresponding movement on the vertical axis (unless of course, I move the vertical knob). But, conversely, with every movement of the vertical adjustment knob, the image moves on the horizontal axis as well (with no horizontal knob adjustment).

George


That is normal. Do the vertical first. When done then do the horizontal. You cannot do it at the same time. Each dial work independent from each other.

I currently have the power cord routed along with the HDMI cable. I had the option of routing it with the component cables or the HDMI cable and I choose to route it with the HDMI since it's digital. I'll try moving the power cable out of the way and see if that helps.

Anxiously waiting on your results of re-routing the power chord...

If you hook up HTPC, can you run a test for me... in the attached archive is NTEST, Nokia Monitor Test. It outputs an image as shown... along with a lot of other test patterns... can you check if all the boundary pixels are displayed? If your desktop is set to 1280x720, the coordinates of the rectangle are (0,0) lower left and (1279, 719) upper right, for example. If the projector is doing 1:1 mapping, you see the entire outer rectangle.

Thanks
Gireesh

P.S. The executable has been scanned with Norton Antivirus, and my database is up to date as of today.

I will post some detail later.
I use the 6500 color temp on the pj with some tweaks there on RGB.
On the scaler mostly I have tweaked the primery and secondary color.
Also i set the color temp on the hd3K at standard, film 3:2 pull down, sharpnes at 3 no edge enhance some edge masking. With some darker material I use B&W boost (2 or 3) which is basically luminance boost.

Thanks C.

Looking forward to your in depth numbers. Have a great night.

bdbaba

I'd try the Native aspect, and keep the settings on the projector at the defaults so all changes are done via the scaler.

Just setup my HD7100 last night and have a few questions.

1.) When using the DVE or any DVD disk, I noticed I cannot get the image to fill the complete 16:9 area on my 80"x45" screen. It appears to be too wide on horizontal but not enough fill on vertical. It's conneted to a Sony DVP-NS70H using HDMI?

2.) When I set the resolution setting on the dvd player eg. 720p, the projector only displays 1080i in the menu for DVI?

Any ideas that could help?

Coming from 4 years of with an IF X1 and I am happily blown away :)

Anxiously waiting on your results of re-routing the power chord...

Re-routing the power cord didn't make any difference.

Try to reverse the order of the cables if possible. Run the 35 ' to the hd3000 from the tivo and the 6' from the 3000 to the pj. It looks like the tivo can drive longer lengths of cable.

The 35' is routed through the ceiling, so I won't be able to test that scenario.

The 35' is routed through the ceiling, so I won't be able to test that scenario.

Do you have an extra cable you can try this with? Maybe you could buy 1 at a local store and see if it works as a test and return it once your done before purchasing a long cable. One of the hidden problems is interface issues. They don't specify recommended cable lengths so your at the mercy of trying it to see if it works. What worked before is no guarantee it will work when things change. Most people's setups vary as to their home theater needs so that's why
new application issues arise.

hi, I'm Italian, I'm interested in this projector, but I have some questions:

1 the hd7100 has bulb problems on the majority of units?
2 the hd7300 has'nt that problem?
3 there are other problems related to the 7100?
4 Someone has bought a 7100 regenerated? Are they "good"?
5 I f I buy a USA model, in europe I will note have nay problems about image (ntsc, pal ect)?


Thanks really, and sorry for english I try to do my best, Dario.

I'd try the Native aspect, and keep the settings on the projector at the defaults so all changes are done via the scaler.
It is not that easy. Some of the parameters on hd3k are complementory.:)
What is "default aspect"?

@dario2,

Welcome to the forum...

From what I can tell, Optoma is shipping the projector part of HD7300 as HD7100 these days.

I bought an HD7100 first, in the US, and when I hooked it up to a computer, it was recognized as an HD7300. The units are physically identical, I have owned both.

The bulb issues seem to have been resolved in the recent shipments, if you read back for a few pages, you will see that no one is complaining about that recently... may be one person. I had the HD7100 for a month, never once had a strike issue. I had the HD7300 with me for two weeks, what I thought was a strike issue went away when I changed the Auto Off setting.

As far as NTSC/PAL goes, over DVI, I am not sure, download the manual and read, I think it takes both signals.

There seems to be some sync issues over DVI with certain sources, my experience has been that there is a sync issue with PCs, with time, it stops syncing with the PC. Long cable runs that have worked with other DVI/HDMI projectors seem not to work with the HD7x00s.

Refurbished Units are supposed to have been restored to factory specs. I see then going at higher prices than others on eBay, so why bother? They also carry only 90 day warranty as opposed 3 yrs from Optoma (I am not sure the warranty is valid outside US).

Some people on this thread have both projectors, and may be willing to sell one to you, one that does not have a problem. I don't have mine anymore.


@CaspianM, et. al.,

Isn't it a good practice to start with "Native" on both the scaler and projector? That way, in theory you are supposed to get a pass through, at least, that is what Optoma techs told me. I would start with the source connected directly to the projector, with projector set to "Native", to see if the source is outputting what you think it is outputting and then insert the scaler in the mix... try not hot swapping stuff.

You cannot bypass the pj's internal processing. Yes that would have been ideal.

Where did you see the "native" on hd3k's menu? Or on the PJ?

Where did you see the "native" on hd3k's menu? Or on the PJ?

I am not sure what native is either. Are you talking about resetting the PJ to default settings and using one of those? Of course then the PJ is set for 8000K on all of those settings, correct?

It is a bit confusing.

There is not such thing as "native" or "default" in a true sense that it by passes all internal processing.
Some features on the hd3k on complentory meaning you do not have full range control so you will need to calibrate both or just the PJ. Some others can be done either or.

The reason I choose the colortemp 6500 on the pj and tweaked it further is bacause I liked certain things about it. You can do calibration on 7000K and reduce it to 6500 if you want or just simply choose one and tweak it further on the HD3k. There is no magic option but certaily there are better choices along the way.

@dario2,

Welcome to the forum...

From what I can tell, Optoma is shipping the projector part of HD7300 as HD7100 these days.

I bought an HD7100 first, in the US, and when I hooked it up to a computer, it was recognized as an HD7300. The units are physically identical, I have owned both.

The bulb issues seem to have been resolved in the recent shipments, if you read back for a few pages, you will see that no one is complaining about that recently... may be one person. I had the HD7100 for a month, never once had a strike issue. I had the HD7300 with me for two weeks, what I thought was a strike issue went away when I changed the Auto Off setting.

As far as NTSC/PAL goes, over DVI, I am not sure, download the manual and read, I think it takes both signals.

There seems to be some sync issues over DVI with certain sources, my experience has been that there is a sync issue with PCs, with time, it stops syncing with the PC. Long cable runs that have worked with other DVI/HDMI projectors seem not to work with the HD7x00s.

Refurbished Units are supposed to have been restored to factory specs. I see then going at higher prices than others on eBay, so why bother? They also carry only 90 day warranty as opposed 3 yrs from Optoma (I am not sure the warranty is valid outside US).

Some people on this thread have both projectors, and may be willing to sell one to you, one that does not have a problem. I don't have mine anymore.


Thanks for the reply and for welcome:), but with PC they have problems?
I will use them only with pc than if they have problems with pc, I can't really consider them....

Anxiously waiting on your results of re-routing the power chord...

If you hook up HTPC, can you run a test for me... in the attached archive is NTEST, Nokia Monitor Test. It outputs an image as shown... along with a lot of other test patterns... can you check if all the boundary pixels are displayed? If your desktop is set to 1280x720, the coordinates of the rectangle are (0,0) lower left and (1279, 719) upper right, for example. If the projector is doing 1:1 mapping, you see the entire outer rectangle.

Thanks
Gireesh

P.S. The executable has been scanned with Norton Antivirus, and my database is up to date as of today.

For consistency and accuracy I would suggest that you run a 16x9 test pattern to check pixel mapping not 4x3.
This way neither your pc nor the pj do not have to rescale the image.

There is not such thing as "native" or "default" in a true sense that it by passes all internal processing.
Some features on the hd3k on complentory meaning you do not have full range control so you will need to calibrate both or just the PJ. Some others can be done either or.

The reason I choose the colortemp 6500 on the pj and tweaked it further is bacause I liked certain things about it. You can do calibration on 7000K and reduce it to 6500 if you want or just simply choose one and tweak it further on the HD3k. There is no magic option but certaily there are better choices along the way.

Thanks, C.

Again, I am really looking forward to your complete numbers. Thanks for taking the time. Hope it is not too much of a pain.

bdbaba

As a quick test, I changed the input on the HD3000 to HDMI3. I don't have any components attached to HDMI3, so it's basically just testing the ability of the HD3000 to drive the 35' cable. I pulled up the HD3000 menu screen and the projector lost sync after about 10 minutes.

Does anyone have a cable 35' or longer attached to the HD3000? If so what's the brand\size?

As a quick test, I changed the input on the HD3000 to HDMI3. I don't have any components attached to HDMI3, so it's basically just testing the ability of the HD3000 to drive the 35' cable. I pulled up the HD3000 menu screen and the projector lost sync after about 10 minutes.

From the tests you have run the 3000 can't drive your current cable. If someone recommends a cable for you make sure the wire guage is lower(bigger wire) than your current 1. Buy 1 locally so you can return it if it doesn't work.

Does anyone have a cable 35' or longer attached to the HD3000? If so what's the brand\size?

Mentioned earlier, but I have the top of the line Blue Jeans cable at 50 feet. No problems so far. Just hooked up the scaler last night, though. It has been working fine with the PJ directly all along.

hope this helps,

bdbaba

Either a thicker silver plated cable or HDMI line booster.

So jut to be clear...

With the scaler in line, I should set my TW HD Cable box to 1080i for HD channels? Does this include ESPN that is broadcast in 720P?

Or would it be better to have all channels set to 480i and let the scaler go from there?

For the non HD channels, should I keep it at 1080i or change it to 480i?

Mentioned earlier, but I have the top of the line Blue Jeans cable at 50 feet. No problems so far. Just hooked up the scaler last night, though. It has been working fine with the PJ directly all along.

hope this helps,

bdbaba
Is your 24 gauge also?

But the problems with PC is only for long cables?



P.s If anyone would sell a 7100 (without problems, I'm italian than not so economical re-ship it back) or 7300 let me know... :)

Is your 24 gauge also?

Here is the link to BJ. I bought the series 1 bonded cable.

http://www.bluejeanscable.com/store/hdmi-cables/index.htm

Mine is series 2.

Mine is series 2.

yes silver plated is better. better conductivity.

Mine is series 2.

I probably over spent, but i figured that with 50 feet i better play it safe.

So C., what do you think about my previous post on resolution settings?

I am getting a new screen and have to recalib and will post.

I am getting a new screen and have to recalib and will post.

Look forward to it.

I am still wondering about this...

So jut to be clear...

With the scaler in line, I should set my TW HD Cable box to 1080i for HD channels? Does this include ESPN that is broadcast in 720P?

Or would it be better to have all channels set to 480i and let the scaler go from there?

For the non HD channels, should I keep it at 1080i or change it to 480i?

The Native aspect ratio is what I meant. You select it from the PJ and it gives you 1:1 pixel mapping so it will play exactly what the scaler outputs. Theoretically this elminates any double dipping.

For much the same reason I would set the projector to User1 or Normal and not do any changes on it, but rather do everything from the scaler. A full bypass would be nice though.

On a sideish note, my 7300/7100 is working just fine. I've done more comparisons to by VP4001 and is pretty close. The Optoma does have a very attractive image out of the box, although I'm not convinced it is more accurate. AT the moment I'll probably stick to my plan of flipping the PJ and keeping the scaler.

As for the above question, you should let the cable boxes output their native resolution, whether it is 1080i or 720P or whatever and let the scaler take it from there.

The Native aspect ratio is what I meant. You select it from the PJ and it gives you 1:1 pixel mapping so it will play exactly what the scaler outputs. Theoretically this elminates any double dipping.

For much the same reason I would set the projector to User1 or Normal and not do any changes on it, but rather do everything from the scaler. A full bypass would be nice though.

On a sideish note, my 7300/7100 is working just fine. I've done more comparisons to by VP4001 and is pretty close. The Optoma does have a very attractive image out of the box, although I'm not convinced it is more accurate. AT the moment I'll probably stick to my plan of flipping the PJ and keeping the scaler.

As for the above question, you should let the cable boxes output their native resolution, whether it is 1080i or 720P or whatever and let the scaler take it from there.

Hey Steve,

Thanks. Still a bit confused. So for 1080i HD channels (most of them) leave it at 1080i. ESPN leave a t 720P. The rest of the non HD stations leave it at 480i.

Sound right?

The Native aspect ratio is what I meant. You select it from the PJ and it gives you 1:1 pixel mapping so it will play exactly what the scaler outputs. Theoretically this elminates any double dipping.

For much the same reason I would set the projector to User1 or Normal and not do any changes on it, but rather do everything from the scaler. A full bypass would be nice though.

On a sideish note, my 7300/7100 is working just fine. I've done more comparisons to by VP4001 and is pretty close. The Optoma does have a very attractive image out of the box, although I'm not convinced it is more accurate. AT the moment I'll probably stick to my plan of flipping the PJ and keeping the scaler.

As for the above question, you should let the cable boxes output their native resolution, whether it is 1080i or 720P or whatever and let the scaler take it from there.


I am finding the same thing as you. The Marantz and this PJ seem quite evenly matched, with the slight edge going to the Marantz for black levels. If the Marantz just had a perfectly rectangular image, it would be a no brainer. As is, I think i am going to keep the Optoma and either send the Marantz back to get "fixed" and then sell it, or just put it up for sale as is, since Marantz seems to think they are within spec anyway. have you tried the marantz with the scaler?

It is a shame they could not make it right in the first place.

By the way--did you get your "fixed" scaler back yet?

For much the same reason I would set the projector to User1 or Normal and not do any changes on it, but rather do everything from the scaler. A full bypass would be nice though.


That dosen't bypass the pj's internal processing. You only opting for one of the pre-sets not the native setting.
Picture of this pj is highly accurate. I have a/b with my CRT which is considered to be very accurate in color and i see little difference. So with Sony.
Sharp MKII or Marantz have better black at half the lumen of the Optoma. You give Optoma a big screen it will be the same in blacklevel. In fact Optoma was tested to over 900:1 ansi contrast whereas those about 650:1.

That dosen't bypass the pj's internal processing. You only opting for one of the pre-sets not the native setting.
Picture of this pj is highly accurate. I have a/b with my CRT which is considered to be very accurate in color and i see little difference. So with Sony.
Sharp MKII or Marantz have better black at half the lumen of the Optoma. You give Optoma a big screen it will be the same in blacklevel. In fact Optoma was tested to over 900:1 ansi contrast whereas those about 650:1.

Take my comparisons of the Marantz and the Optoma with the added info that my room is anything but light controlled. So that is going to offset the results quite a bit. However, in my room, the difference is not much. I do like the lrises on the Marantz. That would have been a nice addition to the Optoma. Again, the Optoma actually has a rectangular picture--go figure. :D The Marantz can't quite pull that hard trick off!:( Otherwise it is a great PJ as well.

I'm still waiting for the scaler.

:(

As for nthe Optoma and the Marantz, it's closer than I thought it would be given how good the Marantz is. The Optoma also fits my setup slightly better because of its flexibility.

I'm firing them up side by side with the HD-DVD of 'Order of the Phoenix' and 'Dark City' tonight so that should sort things out.

I'm still waiting for the scaler.

:(

As for nthe Optoma and the Marantz, it's closer than I thought it would be given how good the Marantz is. The Optoma also fits my setup slightly better because of its flexibility.

I'm firing them up side by side with the HD-DVD of 'Order of the Phoenix' and 'Dark City' tonight so that should sort things out.

Can;t wait to hear your thoughts after the comparison.

I also think the combo 73k+HD3k beat the both sharp and marantz in processing and features as well as lumen and like bdbaba said the lens.

The Optoma lens is certainly a touch sharper than the Marantz, but it's going to come down to black levels and shadow detail as they are most important for me.

The Marantz is much brighter in its highest usable mode (with the iris wide open).

The Optoma lens is certainly a touch sharper than the Marantz, but it's going to come down to black levels and shadow detail as they are most important for me.

The Marantz is much brighter in its highest usable mode (with the iris wide open).

I have used several disk for shadow detail and don't see no issues.
In all fairness you cannot run this two pj's on equal ground for black level because of the lumen difference. Unless you choose mid iris with Marantz and that put the marantz in a disadvantaged position. By the same reason, using the high contrast mode will forfeit the Optoma's advantage.
Optoma will have color accuracy and lumen, processing and feature including CH. Blacklevel still should be close but with mixed scene or the ansi optima has the edge. Have fun!

Native is in the Layout Menu... for the projector... I can't remember where it is on the scaler and that is with Optoma :mad:

@CapsianM, the actual image that was fed to the projector is 16:9, 1280x720. The screen capture for the post was done on my laptop which has a 4:3 screen. Couple of pages ago, I posted photos of the original projected images, output via VGA and HDMI from the HTPC, fed through the scaler to the projector.

Hi, but finally any hd7300 (only projector non scaler) has'nt the problems that have soma hd7100?
And a Hd7300 without the scaler is'nt a problem for is functioning?
How it go with HTPC?

Thanks.

P.s sorry for the characters but I need to understand, there is a bit of confusion:confused:

Please read the last 10 to 20 pages... what you are asking is captured in those pages and you should form your own opinion based on the posts here.

Yes, HD7300 projector will function without the scaler, from what I have been able to determine. I have not tried all the settings.

What connection do you plan to use with an HTPC? DVI/HDCP, HDMI, or VGA. VGA works without any issues. Digital inputs... well, read and form your own opinion.

And, I am nowhere even close to either extreme on either adjustment. Like I said earlier, I centered the projector to the screen and used the mount adjustments to get the projected image 'close'. Only then did I use the lens shift knobs for minute adjustments to get the image perfectly on my screen. After the many posts here regarding this, I went back and racked both the horizontal and vertical adjustment knobs back and forth to gauge their entire range of motion, then from one extreme backed off 1/2 the total range on both adjustments. This put both the vertical and horizontal adjustments somewhere very close to their centers. My image then was only off by a couple of inches in the vertical and less in the horizontal. Then I was able to center the image on my screen with only maybe 1/10 turn on the vertical knob and less on the horizontal.

For future reference for all, this is how the lens shift works... the image is constrained by the solid dotted envelop.

Dario2,
I have the hD7300 combo; I have been using my projector without the scaler since I bought it one month ago. I sent my scaler to Optoma for the Update. The projector takes pal 50hz for Europe, I´m using the projector in Spain. The scaler is a different story,, it has been set up only for 60HZ and we use in Europe 50HZ,let´s see what happen when I get it back from Optoma, if they open it up to all resolutions it should work with no problem.

Jose.

Well, I did a long side by side with the Optoma and the Marantz with HD versions of 'Order of the Phoenix' 'The Matrix' and 'Dark City' and the Avengers box set. I may be coming around to keeping the Optoma.

The Marantz does have better absolute blacks, but it is a little dim on my 120" screen. The Optoma is somewhere between the Narrow and Medium setting on the Marantz for blacks, but the image is considerably brighter and has more contrast and pop. I might be able to improve the blacks by going to a darker grey screen (I'm using a Greywolf).

The Marantz also has better shadow detail, but I was able to get the Optoma closer by adjusting the Gamma to 2.0. It's still not ideal, but the scaler might help here too. The PJ by itself is a little finicky on accepting some signals.

However, the Optoma was just better to look at. The richness of the colours may be a tad inaccurate, but it sure looks pretty and the super-sharp lens makes HD a treat.

The only movie where the Marantz really moved ahead was Dark City, but that is a torture test for all digital projectors and the Optoma was at least watchable.

The reliability question is a concern, and I currently hate Optoma.

Maybe I'll just toss a coin.

I might be able to improve the blacks by going to a darker grey screen (I'm using a Greywolf).


Check out the reviews in the Screen forum... I remember reading not so impressive reviews about the Greywolf.

For future reference for all, this is how the lens shift works... the image is constrained by the solid dotted envelop.

I guess I'm an idiot. I don't see how this diagram explains that the horizontal lens shift mechanism will be activated while moving the vertical lens shift knob???

I would think that if you were at one of the extreme ranges of either the vertical or horizontal lens shift mechanism and you tried to move the image out of the range of the mechanism, nothing would/should happen.

For example, let's say you moved the horizontal lens shift mechanism all the way to the left so that the knob would no longer move. Now, if you then tried to move the vertical lens shift mechanism all the way to the top until it reaches it's maximum range, because of the way the system is designed, shouldn't the vertical knob stop moving???

If I understand what some are saying, why would the system be designed so that one of the lens shift mechanism is activated by the other lens shift mechanism at certain points of movement? So that, if you approach a maximum range on one axis, but the other axis still has range, now both axis' are activated by the same knob?

Even if this were true, and I doubt that it is, why does my vertical lens shift knob activate both axis of movement even from a dead-center starting point, meaning no lens shift at all on either axis?

At least two owners claim that their vertical adjustment knob activates the vertcial lens shift ONLY. We have at least 20 or 30 owners active in this forum, you would think we could/would/should be able to put this issue to bed once and for all fairly simply. If we can't even resolve how two knobs work on our projectors, how are we going to tackle the important issues?

Luck all,
George

Optoma should have my scaler either today or tomorrow, let the fun times begin. I feel like I'm playing a little game of Russian roulette.

I guess I'm an idiot. I don't see how this diagram explains that the horizontal lens shift mechanism will be activated while moving the vertical lens shift knob???


Sorry if I offended you. It wasn't meant to illustrate that the two are coupled. All I was trying to point out was that once you start shifting on one axis, there is an impact on the freedom along the other axis.

I will check if they are coupled, once I get my projector back :mad:

I guess I'm an idiot. I don't see how this diagram explains that the horizontal lens shift mechanism will be activated while moving the vertical lens shift knob???

I would think that if you were at one of the extreme ranges of either the vertical or horizontal lens shift mechanism and you tried to move the image out of the range of the mechanism, nothing would/should happen.

For example, let's say you moved the horizontal lens shift mechanism all the way to the left so that the knob would no longer move. Now, if you then tried to move the vertical lens shift mechanism all the way to the top until it reaches it's maximum range, because of the way the system is designed, shouldn't the vertical knob stop moving???

If I understand what some are saying, why would the system be designed so that one of the lens shift mechanism is activated by the other lens shift mechanism at certain points of movement? So that, if you approach a maximum range on one axis, but the other axis still has range, now both axis' are activated by the same knob?

Even if this were true, and I doubt that it is, why does my vertical lens shift knob activate both axis of movement even from a dead-center starting point, meaning no lens shift at all on either axis?

At least two owners claim that their vertical adjustment knob activates the vertcial lens shift ONLY. We have at least 20 or 30 owners active in this forum, you would think we could/would/should be able to put this issue to bed once and for all fairly simply. If we can't even resolve how two knobs work on our projectors, how are we going to tackle the important issues?

Luck all,
George

Optoma should have my scaler either today or tomorrow, let the fun times begin. I feel like I'm playing a little game of Russian roulette.

Hey George,

I am calling Optoma today. Did you speak to anyone in particular? Just make sure that they know that they are completely upgrading your machine and not just flashing the firmware!!!!

Good luck. Please let us know....

bdbaba

Steve what was the hrs on the Manartz? What was the screen material?
HD3k should open up the gamma by small steps so you don't have to use 2 on the pj. 2.2 should do it.
I am nor sure what color space hd7300 uses but hd3k will choose the right gamut in Auto or select HD color gamut.
With that color is pretty close and can also be tweaked a bit. The only thing is the green which is a bit yellow compared to my XG CRT which is fairly accurate. My Sony was even yellower. I do not like to use ND filter but using a ND3 which reduces the lumen by 1/3 should bring the black in par with Marantz and still have 100 lumen more than Marantz.

Sorry if I offended you. It wasn't meant to illustrate that the two are coupled. All I was trying to point out was that once you start shifting on one axis, there is an impact on the freedom along the other axis.

I will check if they are coupled, once I get my projector back :mad:

Hey gireesh, certainly no offense taken at all and I apologize that my words were not clear, and/or made you feel that way.

I would just think that this would be one of the easiest issues for us to resolve ourselves, amongst us owners. Man, either the knobs work independently of each other or they don't. If they are supposed to work independently, as I suspect then I've got a problem.

Again, I apologize that my words gave you the impression I was upset with you, they were intended to be directed at the situation.

George

Hey George,

I am calling Optoma today. Did you speake to anyone in particular? Just make sure that they know that they are completely upgrading your machine and not just flashing the firmware!!!!

Good luck. Please let us know....

bdbaba

bdbaba, I would certainly hope that they would know that the $300 charge is not for simply flashing the firmware, although I am worried.

In my opinion, Optoma could not have handled this in any less of a professional manner than which they have so far. The Optoma rep I spoke with, who has the title 'Director, Tech Support & Customer Service Optoma Technology, Inc.', gave me this number to call, 888-942-2929, and told me that there would be someone there who was up to speed on what is going on.

Of course, when I called that number, nobody knew what I was talking about and I was transferred by a woman, I won't mention her name, who claimed she had no idea. She transferred me to a different department who also did not know what I was talking about. They transferred me again to someone who didn't know what was going on. So, I hung up and contacted the original Optoma rep (mentioned above) who told me I needed to talk with one specific person. Yup, you have only one guess... The original woman I spoke with when I called the 888 number, who claimed she had no idea what I was talking about.

When I called back to talk with this person, I got her voice mail (which went something like this, 'You have reached Bugs Bunny, I am either away from my desk or out in the carrot patch, leave a message.') I didn't leave a message but hung up and called back. Arun answered the phone and miraculously in the 15 minutes since I spoke with Optoma last, he knew what I wanted to do with my HD3000. Politely took my email address so that he could email me the RMA request which asked for my credit card information. I signed it and emailed it back to him. He emailed a bit later to give me the RMA number and to let me know the price was $299 plus $15 shipping (don't get me started).

Like I said, they should be getting it either today or tomorrow (the last time I use UPS that's for sure. They charged me $23 to send that little package from Arkansas to California (I had to insure it for $1000 just in case), this was a week ago last Friday. And, it isn't supposed to get to them until tomorrow, 11 days later!!! I know there was a holiday in there but that is ridiculous. I could have hitch hiked it there in half the time.)

George

I'm not sure if I should risk another call to them asking just exactly what their plans are for my 3000.

I want to upgrade my H31 to the 7100 because this one would fit my room perfectly. I connect with an Oppo 971H and want to see standart DVDs upconverted to 720p on this projector. I expect a significant picture improvement although the H31 is still doing faboulus with absolutely no problems for 4 years (including bulb). With other words I am spoiled with its reliability but want to improve on picture.
So did Optoma worked out all the annoying quirks of this machine and is it safe to buy a new one without these problems? What are the experts saying or should I look at a different projector to upgrade (or don't upgrade at all)?
Thanks for every input.

Dario2,
I have the hD7300 combo; I have been using my projector without the scaler since I bought it one month ago. I sent my scaler to Optoma for the Update. The projector takes pal 50hz for Europe, I´m using the projector in Spain. The scaler is a different story,, it has been set up only for 60HZ and we use in Europe 50HZ,let´s see what happen when I get it back from Optoma, if they open it up to all resolutions it should work with no problem.

Jose.

hmm I undersatand, You also buyed it in USA?
I asked becouse I founded a 7300 without scaler, than would be a 7100 with less possibility to have problems...but than if I use pc this scaler how function?

Please read the last 10 to 20 pages... what you are asking is captured in those pages and you should form your own opinion based on the posts here.

Yes, HD7300 projector will function without the scaler, from what I have been able to determine. I have not tried all the settings.

What connection do you plan to use with an HTPC? DVI/HDCP, HDMI, or VGA. VGA works without any issues. Digital inputs... well, read and form your own opinion.

with dvi naturally...:)

Just for curiosity, there is a guy who has done very much hours on those projectors without problems?

Like I said, they should be getting it either today or tomorrow (the last time I use UPS that's for sure. They charged me $23 to send that little package from Arkansas to California (I had to insure it for $1000 just in case), this was a week ago last Friday. And, it isn't supposed to get to them until tomorrow, 11 days later!!! I know there was a holiday in there but that is ridiculous. I could have hitch hiked it there in half the time.)


Ouch... that is a long time. I FedEx's my big box with the scaler on the 13th from TX and it got to Optoma on Friday the 16th all for $30.

with dvi naturally...:)


Well, I spoke to the Optoma tech today. They tried my projector that I send back with two HTPCs with DVI connectors and it was recognized by the PCs.

I did not use a DVI connection, as both my motherboard and the second video card I bought have HDMI/HDCP connectors.

Well, I spoke to the Optoma tech today. They tried my projector that I send back with two HTPCs with DVI connectors and it was recognized by the PCs.

I did not use a DVI connection, as both my motherboard and the second video card I bought have HDMI/HDCP connectors.

I think that I will use a hdmi cable about 10 meters and two dvi-->hdmi adaptors, can I have problems in your opinion?

But with searching, I read the some people with ps3 and directly hdmi sources have no problems, quite strange:confused:

Bub,

Talk to Lilibeth Santos at Optoma. She is the one who took my HD3000. Her boss is Jeff Davis.

Caspian,

The Marantz has just over $100 hours on it (my Optoma now has 11), and I use an Optoma Greywolf II. I also checked it with the neutral grey painted screen I used to use.

I've considered an ND2 filter and may give one a try just for the heck of it.

Steve

I think that I will use a hdmi cable about 10 meters and two dvi-->hdmi adaptors, can I have problems in your opinion?


Well, I don't know... while my projector and scaler are stuck at Optoma, I have been reading up on the specs and trying to figure out what could be wrong. It is possible that the HDMI to DVI cable that some manufacturers, including Optoma (this is a guess) uses may not be fully VESA E-DDC compliant. I have started a separate thread on this topic Is there a formal DVI to HDMI Connector Map Specification - AVS Forum (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=12321261#post12321261)

At this time, I am not sure what in the world is going on.


All,

Please post what DVI to HDMI adapter you are using... it might help those of us who are having drop out issues.

Thanks
Gireesh

Bub,

Talk to Lilibeth Santos at Optoma. She is the one who took my HD3000. Her boss is Jeff Davis.

Caspian,

The Marantz has just over $100 hours on it (my Optoma now has 11), and I use an Optoma Greywolf II. I also checked it with the neutral grey painted screen I used to use.

I've considered an ND2 filter and may give one a try just for the heck of it.

Steve
Thank you.
Using ND2 will cut down the lumen to half becomes almost like the Marantz too dim but you will have better black level. I just think by the time you have a couple of hundred hrs on the Optoma it should be fine.

All,

Please post what DVI to HDMI adapter you are using... it might help those of us who are having drop out issues.

Thanks
Gireesh

I'm using an HDMI-DVI adapter from monoprice it works fine. I'm having dropouts but only over a very long cable run (35') when connected to the HD3000. It works fine with a shorter run (6').

I just went to the Wal Mart and got one for $5. It works fine.

Well, I don't know... while my projector and scaler are stuck at Optoma, I have been reading up on the specs and trying to figure out what could be wrong. It is possible that the HDMI to DVI cable that some manufacturers, including Optoma (this is a guess) uses may not be fully VESA E-DDC compliant. I have started a separate thread on this topic Is there a formal DVI to HDMI Connector Map Specification - AVS Forum (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=12321261#post12321261)

At this time, I am not sure what in the world is going on.


All,

Please post what DVI to HDMI adapter you are using... it might help those of us who are having drop out issues.

Thanks
Gireesh

FYI

http://www.interfacebus.com/Design_Connector_Digital_Visual_Interface_DVI_Bus.html

Bub,

Talk to Lilibeth Santos at Optoma. She is the one who took my HD3000. Her boss is Jeff Davis.

Steve

Steve, these aren't the same people that promised you your projector before you headed back to Australia are they?

George

I too am using the mini adapter from MonoPrice, HDMI female/DVI male. I am using a 15 foot HDMI also from MonoPrice.

Yes they are. But at least they know the scaler is there to be unlocked.

Those of us who got the free lamp should test out the second lamp before 90 days over.
I just put the second lamp in right at 100 hrs on the pj. Second one seems brighter. Could be the 100 hr on the first one that looked dimmer.

So I am not the only one wondering/pondering about the fact the 90 day warranty on BOTH bulbs run concurrently :rolleyes:


I'm using an HDMI-DVI adapter from monoprice it works fine. I'm having dropouts but only over a very long cable run (35') when connected to the HD3000. It works fine with a shorter run (6').

Are you using with it a PC?

I think I bought my adapter from Blue Jeans. Seems to work fine.

All,

Please post what DVI to HDMI adapter you are using... it might help those of us who are having drop out issues.

Thanks
Gireesh

CUrrently using a BetterCables 32' (10m) HDMI-HDMI Silver Serpent Cable with a BetterCables HDMI-DVI adapter. Built like a tank! No problems whatsoever. Definitely worth the price.

Aaron

I'm using the one that came with the projector, and have it connected to a 1 x 2 splitter, and from there via a 5m run to my prepro. No probs so far.

Our panasonic ae700u blew up its bulb after 3 years and 700 hours on bulb.
We were thinking about upgrading to HD7100 (HC1500 & PT-AX200U are other considerations). Our room is 19ft long, 15ft wide with 8ft ceiling.
We need to fill a screen of 136 inch diagonal.
100% of the viewing in this room is for movies only using HD-DVD player (HD-A3).
Do you experienced HD7100 owners think this project will be a fit to our room/screen spec?

Any thought on why you choose 7100 over ax200 or hc1500 other than price?

Please help us.

Thank you.

But a 24AWG cable 10mt hdmi shielded ect it's ok?
And anyone has 10mt HDMI-HDMI plus adaptors (pc-PJ) configuration?

But a 24AWG cable 10mt hdmi shielded ect it's ok?
And anyone has 10mt HDMI-HDMI plus adaptors (pc-PJ) configuration?

I was able to go from my TivoHD directly to the projector using a 35' 24AWG HDMI cable with an HDMI-DVI adapter at the projector (only 1 adapter). I only had problems when using the HD3000 at that length.

I was able to go from my TivoHD directly to the projector using a 35' 24AWG HDMI cable with an HDMI-DVI adapter at the projector (only 1 adapter). I only had problems when using the HD3000 at that length.

You tryed also with PC?


But as show the problems related to the lamp?
I mean the symptoms...

You tryed also with PC?

But as show the problems related to the lamp?
I mean the symptoms...

I was able to drive my previous projector with a HTPC using the DVI output of an nvidia 6600GT with the 24' cable and 2 HDMI-DVI adapters. I don't have the HTPC setup anymore, so I can't test it against the HD7300. Sorry.

I haven't seen any lamp failures or symptoms on the HD7300, but I only have about 12 hours on the bulb so far.

Anyone know what size filter would fit the projector? I like to use a UV filter to protect the lens and I'm pondering an ND2.

Why is an UV Filter needed to protect the lens?

Why is an UV Filter needed to protect the lens?

I think it is a clear lens just to protect from fingerprints and the like, neh?

Yep. I keep forgetting to measure the lens width when I'm at home.

Anyone know what size filter would fit the projector? I like to use a UV filter to protect the lens and I'm pondering an ND2.

Steve, I don't think you are going to be able to put a filter on this thing very easily. The way the lens assembly is manufactured, with the lens sticking way out in front means you won't be able to screw on a filter at all. The lens sticks out from the lens mount so that any flat filter would hit the lens before it hit the mount.

I have a Hoya 62mm ND2, that I was using on my IN72, that looks like it might be the right size but, like I said, it hits the lens before it hits the threads (or mount).

Sry,
George

So, what is the word on your 3000? Optoma received mine yesterday but I couldn't get them on the phone today nor would they respond to my emails for the last two days.

I've heard nothing yet.

If one really needs to use a filter on this should use a Series Adapter Ring then the filter.
Any filter will affect the ansi contrast however.

I've heard nothing yet.

So, they were supposed to have it ready for you last Thursday for your trip and here it is an entire week later and you've heard nothing from them???

I tried to call them yesterday, but was put on hold by the computer and then 16 minutes later, transferred to voice mail. Tried multiple times throughout the day, same thing, they never came to the phone. I also have been trying to reach them via email for the last three days, no response there either.

My 3000 got to them on Tuesday, according to UPS, and I would just like to have them acknowledge that they have indeed received it and are aware of what they will be doing to it. Before I sent it in, they claimed their turn around time was under 5 business days. Looks like they've had your 3000 for almost two weeks now, and that was after a promise of 4 days. I'm a bit worried.

I never even took mine out of the shrink wrap, just sent it in. I've not heard anything back from the CEO, although it has only been a bit over a week now.

Luck all,
George

I am on the phone with Optoma now... Jeff was out of the office yesterday... that is probably why we couldn't get a hold of him. With all of us sending the units in, I think they are playing catch up.

Any response? I sent a slightly more pointed email to them suggesting they might want to reply.

I spoke to him... they are backed up. They are supposed to complete work on my projector/scaler tomorrow... but then again, he promised me that he will resolve it yesterday and he fell ill.

I finally got a response. Mine is done and has been shipped to my US mailing address and is due to arrive tomorrow. I should get it back to Australia by the end of next week and will report then.

BTW, my comparisons are over and I'm going to keep the Marantz. I just find the picture more natural, with better blacks and shadow details. The variable iris is also handy since I can make it much brighter than the Optoma, about the same, or dimmer. I've also found the Optoma DVI input to be somewhat finicky with my Toshiba HD-DVD player.

I've also found the Optoma DVI input to be somewhat finicky with my Toshiba HD-DVD player.

There you go... this thing seems to have a problem with the HDMI/DVI connection. I wish Optoma admitted the problem addressed the issue and fixed it. I may have to ask for a refund, if the projector can't sync with HDMI devices.

Steve, do you see bowing with the Marantz?

I have no bowing whatsoever with the Marantz.

As for the DVI connection on the Optoma, I don't have any sync issues per se. However, I have a 1080i CRT monitor as well as a projector. If the cable is plugged into the Optoma (whether running or not) the CRT monitor won't show a picture.

This is not an issue with the Marantz.

Presumably the scaler might help this, but to be honest I'm kind of over Optoma at the moment. This scaler upgrade is going to cost me over $400 after all the delays and shipping and I'm pretty cranky about it. It had better be done right.

I finally got a response. Mine is done and has been shipped to my US mailing address and is due to arrive tomorrow. I should get it back to Australia by the end of next week and will report then.

BTW, my comparisons are over and I'm going to keep the Marantz. I just find the picture more natural, with better blacks and shadow details. The variable iris is also handy since I can make it much brighter than the Optoma, about the same, or dimmer. I've also found the Optoma DVI input to be somewhat finicky with my Toshiba HD-DVD player.

Steve, what issues are you having with your Tosh? Which model do you have? I have the A2 and haven't noticed any issues, although I've never put the HD3000 into the mix and I've only watched maybe 4 or 5 movies.

George

I have had no issues with the Marantz, but every now and again the Optoma causes it to re-adjust the output resolution when I switch between inputs.

I finally got a response. Mine is done and has been shipped to my US mailing address and is due to arrive tomorrow. I should get it back to Australia by the end of next week and will report then.

BTW, my comparisons are over and I'm going to keep the Marantz. I just find the picture more natural, with better blacks and shadow details. The variable iris is also handy since I can make it much brighter than the Optoma, about the same, or dimmer. I've also found the Optoma DVI input to be somewhat finicky with my Toshiba HD-DVD player.

You made up your mind before trying the scaler in the mix?

Yep. Although I could always change it again.

:)

The scaler isn't going to help black levels or brightness. It may improve shadow detail through gamma adjustment.

In any case I'll probably be upgrading to 1080P in the next few months.

OK guys... who bailed?....

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?Item=N82E16889219002R

OK guy... who bailed?....

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?Item=N82E16889219002R

Not I... yet!

George

OK guy... who bailed?....

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?Item=N82E16889219002R

Although there's no bulb, I wonder how far down the price will go if you wait.

I noticed their listing the limitations of the processor ie 480i/p,780p

Where does it say there is no bulb?

I noticed their listing the limitations of the processor ie 480i/p,780p

I am sure someone was pissed and raised hell... I am running out of patience on mine... they are supposed to fix the scaler today, and the call me about the projector.

Where does it say there is no bulb?

He meant, the additional bulb, the one some of us, mkoss included bought, which had the 7100/3000/extra lamp. Steve, did yours reach the US location like Jeff said it will?

I missed the part about open box before. Just out of curiosity I tried to place an order for 2 but only let me put 1 in the shopping cart even though it says limit of 2 to a cutomer.

I noticed their listing the limitations of the processor ie 480i/p,780p

It accepts all but 1080p. The listing is not correct.

Does anybody happen to know how to navigate the title/chapter contents of an HD DVD when the DVD player doesn't have a title button?

I purchased the DVE HD DVD calibration disk but can't navigate to the instructions because my Tosh A2 doesn't have a title button. I've heard that there is a way to do this but I can't figure it out.

If anybody could help, I would appreciate it,
George

Have you tried menu or top menu bottons? If they don't work and you know the the title # then do a T'Search and enter the title# directly.

Have you tried menu or top menu bottons? If they don't work and you know the the title # then do a T'Search and enter the title# directly.

Neither menu buttons give you title/chapter information. I do have a title search button, but when it is pressed, I get the red circle with a line through it meaning that button/option isn't available for whatever reason.

George

Before you do a title search push stop botton. I do have the DVE and Avia and work with either way. I am puzzled now.

I am looking at the following projectors. I will be mostly doing PC gaming/Movie (HD and SD) watching (HTPC) maybe some TV.

I have the following choices.
HD7100 (could be7300) refurb 1st choice + screen.
BenQ PE7700 lastest Firmware refurb +screen.
Acer PH530. new. (would make a DIY screen).
HD70. new DIY screen
Mitsu 1500C (out of my budget but close. In 2 month or so it could be in my range.since I just missed the rebate).

I will mounting (shelf or table)10.5 to 11.5 feet back. Looking for a short throw lens, DLP (seems to have the best PQ) Was going with a 100" screen but now being told to go with a 106". Hooked to my PC by DVI or VGA.

I really like the stats on the HD7100 and feel the refurb should have all issues fixed but since this is my first I just want to make sure. I can get the others cheaper or newer but I dont know if I would enjoy the PQ as much. I am used to a crt-rp which is why I am leaning towards the 7100's contrast ratio for better blacks.

I have only seen the HD70 in action at BB since no one in my area really has pq set up. HD70 looked good to me as is on display. I saw not RBE.

Any take on this would be helpful.

new to all of this. should i buy a 7100 if its $999 after a $200 rebate?

pbicich & Wytchone,

You should read through the past several pages and make up your own mind...

I had trouble with direct HDMI/HDCP connection to HD7100/HD7300 from an HTPC.

At $999, this projector puts out an awesome image, it has both horizontal and vertical lens shift, something you find in very few DLP projectors, certainly not at this price. Make sure you checkout the projection distance, this has a short throw lens... read the reviews at ProjectorCentral.com and other sites. No major advances have been made in 1280x720p DLP chips since this projector came out, so don't expect an image better than this or the sharp projector at this resolution.

Yep spent the past 2 days reading. As of now I will be getting the 7100 just making sure before I jump in with both feet :)

I plan on using the VGA so hopefully there wont be any connection issues.

Thanks girresh.

You need to spend a lot more to get a better projector then HD7300 and even then the improvements are not much.

I would say that the 7100 or the Marantz VP4001/Sharp Z3000/DT500 would be your best options.

If you are going to game a lot the Marantz/Sharp will give you added brightness. It's about double the 7100 with the iris wide open.

I would say that the 7100 or the Marantz VP4001/Sharp Z3000/DT500 would be your best options.

If you are going to game a lot the Marantz/Sharp will give you added brightness. It's about double the 7100 with the iris wide open.

Marantz has its own issues.

Are those pj's Dark chip II not III!?

Optoma has a better lens quality as well as lens shift.
I overall rate this unit better than Marantz or Sharp z3000 in PQ in several area. However 4001/Z3000 have better black level but they are also dimmer.

Before you do a title search push stop botton. I do have the DVE and Avia and work with either way. I am puzzled now.

I think I have it figured out. There are no chapters/titles on the HD side of the DVE HD DVD. You have to flip it over to the SD side and you can then get to the help/explanation portion of the calibration disk.

Makes it pretty awkward to have to keep flipping the disk over between help and calibration screens.

George

Glad it worked out. Thought it could be the case but slipped my mind since both disks that I have are one sided.

Just had my first lamp strike failure this morning. Watched a movie from my Dish Network 622 HD receiver last night. A little while ago, I turned on the projector and the lamp didn't strike. The projector ran for about 3 or 4 minutes, then a little burst of light on the screen, and it shut down. I did notice that there was a very small amount of illumination on the screen during this process.

I'm pretty sure it wasn't a signal error as the HD622 continues to output a screen saver even when turned off so the 7300 should have been seeing a signal the entire time.

I waited about 15 minutes, then turned on the projector again and it functioned as it should. I only had about 35 hours on it.

I remember reading that there were a lot of people complaining about lamp strike failures and the 7100, but I thought the consensus was the 7300 didn't have this issue?

Anyways... Oh, you all might get a kick out of this. I contacted Optoma regarding what I perceive as unusual noises, which I described as 'a howling sound' and 'a fluctuating whirring type noise' coming out of my projector (you remember my contact, the one with the long title?). His response should worry all of you who have nice quiet projectors that don't 'howl' or 'whir', "Don't worry, that is totally normal for this model. That is how it operates."

So, all you guys better call in because I think your projectors are all about to fail. Mine is normal and you guys all are having problems with yours!

Luck all,
George

So, all you guys better call in because I think your projectors are all about to fail. Mine is normal and you guys all are having problems with yours!

Luck all,
George


:D

Mine is with them, so I assume it will returned with whining and howling noises that it is supposed to make.

:D

Mine is with them, so I assume it will returned with whining and howling noises that it is supposed to make.

I've got my fingers crossed for you!

George

Either they think we all are stupid or it's just me...

Just had my first lamp strike failure this morning. Watched a movie from my Dish Network 622 HD receiver last night. A little while ago, I turned on the projector and the lamp didn't strike. The projector ran for about 3 or 4 minutes, then a little burst of light on the screen, and it shut down. I did notice that there was a very small amount of illumination on the screen during this process.

I'm pretty sure it wasn't a signal error as the HD622 continues to output a screen saver even when turned off so the 7300 should have been seeing a signal the entire time.

I waited about 15 minutes, then turned on the projector again and it functioned as it should. I only had about 35 hours on it.

I remember reading that there were a lot of people complaining about lamp strike failures and the 7100, but I thought the consensus was the 7300 didn't have this issue?

Anyways... Oh, you all might get a kick out of this. I contacted Optoma regarding what I perceive as unusual noises, which I described as 'a howling sound' and 'a fluctuating whirring type noise' coming out of my projector (you remember my contact, the one with the long title?). His response should worry all of you who have nice quiet projectors that don't 'howl' or 'whir', "Don't worry, that is totally normal for this model. That is how it operates."

So, all you guys better call in because I think your projectors are all about to fail. Mine is normal and you guys all are having problems with yours!

Luck all,
George


Since the projectors are the same, my thought is that the scaler in the loop maybe providing proper interface to the unit reducing its affect. Your not using the scaler now, since it's out for modification correct? Also check in the options mention whether you have auto power off set to on. If it is, set it to off. Was your projector completely off from last night which requires pulling the plug or killing the pj power or in standby?

I have to say, I turned off the UPS every night, so the reason I never had a strike issue could be that I was doing a cold boot every evening.

mkoss, would a cold boot impact the way the ballast works?

bub, the only time I had a perceived strike issue was when the Auto Power Off was set to ON.

I have to say, I turned off the UPS every night, so the reason I never had a strike issue could be that I was doing a cold boot every evening.

mkoss, would a cold boot impact the way the ballast works?

bub, the only time I had a perceived strike issue was when the Auto Power Off was set to ON.

By not killing power completely to both the equipment feeding and that receiving one does not know the level of internal circuitry active settings. Having active equipment feeding inactive equipment can lead to problems depending on the input circuitry tolerance. Also controlling sequencing is important depending on input circuitry tolerance to active feeds
when both powering up and down. There's a high degree of interaction between software(firmware) and hardware so depending on this all by itself can lead to problems. The lamp startup is part of a complex routine to bring the bulb up to power. What we don't know is how the firmware affects this.
So assumming there isn't a ballast/bulb problem alone, we should try to get a
detailed powerup/down sequence from Optoma to eliminate this as an issue.
Also,when a start up problem is listed we don't know the habits of the people
listing them except in a very few cases.

Keep the "Auto Power" off.

Keep the "Auto Power" off.

Are you stating keep "auto power off "on or off? If you keep "auto power off" on then if no signal is detected the lamp can shut down. Keeping "auto power off" off requires manual intervention to remove bulb power.

Correct. My feeling is that 7100 dosn't sense the signal therefore no strike and goes off when time out expires.
For those who have a nice remote may program it in a way to power up the pj then turn the feature on. And turn it off before powering down the pj. Or simply keep it off.

I changed the "Auto Power Off" setting from ON to OFF, and did not have any issues after that.

My HD7100 came with the above Auto Power Off setting in OFF position and HD7300 came with Auto Power Off feature turned ON.

Since the projectors are the same, my thought is that the scaler in the loop maybe providing proper interface to the unit reducing its affect. Your not using the scaler now, since it's out for modification correct? Also check in the options mention whether you have auto power off set to on. If it is, set it to off. Was your projector completely off from last night which requires pulling the plug or killing the pj power or in standby?

Correct, my scaler is back at Optoma sitting on some under paid working stiffs bench, who sits his coffee on it, dropped it on the way to his bench, knocked his 11 pound cordless drill off its 3 foot high shelf onto it, ran his grinder all along the front of it while working on his own project during working hours, kicked it because he found out his wife is having an affair with his parole officer (you get the drill) so my scaler was not in the mix.

Auto power off is set to off (I would bet your life on it, but wouldn't bet mine... should check again next time I use the projector), meaning there is no auto power off. My projector is completely off when I turn it off, but since I never turn off my power center, my projector is never really off I guess, just like all my other electronics.

Like I said, it doesn't matter if my HD622 receiver is off or on, as it continues to send out a screen saver even when off. Although, my usual sequence of unfortunate events is power on projector, receiver and then audio. When using the HD DVD player, it is projector, dvd, audio. Now, the HD DVD player takes 3 days to boot up so I would think that if the projector was going to have a problem with any HDMI device, it would be when the dvd player was in the loop. But, what do I know...

Luck all,
George

Correct, my scaler is back at Optoma sitting on some under paid working stiffs bench, who sits his coffee on it, dropped it on the way to his bench, knocked his 11 pound cordless drill off its 3 foot high shelf onto it, ran his grinder all along the front of it while working on his own project during working hours, kicked it because he found out his wife is having an affair with his parole officer (you get the drill) so my scaler was not in the mix.


Now that is funny. You sure he wasn't the UPS driver rather than P. officer!?:D

George, you crack me up...

Now, I was told, that the projector should be turned on first, then the source, so that the source can do an HDMI/HDCP handshake. In such a sequence, if the source takes too long to sync with the projector, and Auto Power Off feature is turned on, the projector will shutdown... I have watched it happen.

Good theory!

Is it possible that the bulb striking issue can have something to do with power line voltage? That is, when you power up the pj first, it has a good, clean dose of full power. Then you turn on the associated equipment and there is a substantial draw on the power line. If the equipment goes on first, or even close in time (before the power line stablizes) then the pj is handicapped by sharing power and is, thus, compromised.

Granted, I only have about 50 hrs on my 7300 but have not had an issue. Also, my pj is on a separate power line from my equipment. My power on sequence is pj (wait 5 minutes or so), then power up my other equipment.

My thinking is based on the fact that powering up my amps (Krell - 250w/ch x 5) is enough to dim the lights in my room - clearly a serious draw! Maybe the pj needs a good dose of clean power to fire the bulb.

Aaron

Powering up & down sequenchially is a good thing with regards to order, powering up & down simultaneously is a bad thing. Load on the line could have an effect if using improper extension chords or overloading an outlet.

One thing to note, is that my equipment is connected to an UPS with power conditioning, rated at 950W, I think. I ran a 25' power chord to the projector. Not once has the UPS beeped when all my equipment was on, and receiver taking the full power. I think it was worth the money I spent ($125).

One thing to note, is that my equipment is connected to an UPS with power conditioning, rated at 950W, I think. I ran a 25' power chord to the projector. Not once has the UPS beeped when the all my equipment was on, and receiver taking the full power. I think it was worth the money I spent ($125).

Without it spells disaster for the bulb should you have a brownout or blackout,
more so during a brownout since it gives you ride through. During a blackout it would have to be able to support the cool down cycle which could be considerable. The better the unit the better the switch over characteristics.
When buying 1 look at its holdup spec.

Well, today is day 5, of the 5 day turnaround time that I was quoted by Optoma in regards to 'fixing' my HD3000.

I did get an email from Optoma in response to my email, dated 11/29 (the date they received my HD3000), expressing my concerns that I had heard of some getting their HD3000's back still being locked at 720p.

Maybe the 5 day turnaround time that I was quoted was for the time it would take them to respond to emails and not to fix the HD3000?!?

Anyways, his response was, "I checked on this issue and found out that there is no issue. HD3000-U720P C04 2007/01/22 is the firmware revision. People are confusing U720P with 720P resolution which it is not."

So, those of you who are reporting that your 'fixed' HD3000 is still locked at 720p should realize that what you are really dealing with isn't a 720p locked HD3000, but rather what you are seeing when trying to select any resolution other than 720p is the HD3000 simply trying to let you know what firmware it has. So, in other words, there is no issue... Move along...

I'm not sure why, as I get older, I'm noticing more and more the incompetence of some people. Is it just me? Like when I order a hamburger, the order taker asks me if I want cheese on that. Wouldn't that be a cheeseburger and if so, wouldn't I have ordered a cheeseburger?

Luck all,
George

Do those of you who have received back their 'fixed' HD3000's, could you post if the 'fix' was successful and how long it took to get your units back? Thanks...

That guy that's fixing your scaler, I heard was arrested for threatening his wife.

That guy that's fixing your scaler, I heard was arrested for threatening his wife.

Did he get my projector shipped back to me before they picked him up? Because this is all about me ya know!

George

I have a dead pixel on my 7300. It looks like a dead mirror, shines one bright pixel on most of the movies. Anyone else have similiar problems?

I have a dead pixel on my 7300. It looks like a dead mirror, shines one bright pixel on most of the movies. Anyone else have similiar problems?

Possible, but these things are rare with DMDs. Could be caused by interference in cable... sparkles.


That guy that's fixing your scaler, I heard was arrested for threatening his wife.

Mine has been with Optoma for over three weeks now... still no solution. I am getting really annoyed with Optoma right now... Since the unit is with them, my options are limited... I will try to escalate to senior managers if don't get a resolution tomorrow... this blows...

finally I bought from USA a 7300 without scaler (the scaler was sold to onother customer) for 700$ plus more much dollars for shipment to Italy (but the €-$ change is very very good), it has 30h and it's ex demo-showroom, I hope it has'nt problems...

what test I can do to verify that is full ok?
I will run it with Pc with Nvidia 6800 (I have also a pioneer all in one system, but it has only s-video out) :)

Mine has been with Optoma for over three weeks now... still no solution. I am getting really annoyed with Optoma right now... Since the unit is with them, my options are limited... I will try to escalate to senior managers if don't get a resolution tomorrow... this blows...

3 Weeks!?!?!?!?!

Did you send yours in for the 'fix' only? That is unbelievable, and they have nothing to say about it when you call them? When did you send yours in? They received mine last Tuesday, and initially told me (when I set up the service) that their turnaround time was 5 days.

George

3 Weeks!?!?!?!?!
Did you send yours in for the 'fix' only? That is unbelievable, and they have nothing to say about it when you call them? When did you send yours in? They received mine last Tuesday, and initially told me (when I set up the service) that their turnaround time was 5 days.
George

Here is the shipping info...
Signed for by
KHANH
Ship date
Nov 13, 2007
Delivery date
Nov 16, 2007 9:39 AM


Optoma has had my equipment for 11 full business day, today will be the twelfth. They have promised me that I will have it back by Friday.

The projector is real flaky on digital input, they claim that they tried it with two HTPCs with DVI input and it worked... but I don't know if either of those have HDCP built in. My video card has HDCP built in and the PC has trouble recognizing the projector over HDMI/HDCP. It detects the project fine on the VGA input. The odd thing is, it was working over the HDMI/HDCP port when I got it, but stopped working once I put the scaler in the mix.

I develop software for a living, and when my developers tell me a defect is fixed and they can't tell me what was wrong, I know it is only a matter of time before it happens again. To me, this issue with HD7300/HD7100 projector and DVI/HDCP port seems to fall into that category. Optoma really doesn't know what is wrong... so they can't fix it. If you read the following review

http://www.projectorreviews.com/optoma/hd7100/proscons.php

it summarizes all the issues we are discussing on this thread:

"Without doubt, my most severe criticism is that the HD7100 should be a little quieter. I don't believe its going to be a problem for many, but those who really want an essentially silent projector won't be happy.

Then, of course, there is that truly excellent image it projects!

Before we look at the Pros and Cons summary, I want to mention one more thing. I have not yet been able to buy an HD-DVD player. It has been reported that many projectors are having trouble interfacing with the Toshiba HD-AI player, the only such player shipping right now. The problem seems to more prevelant with projectors with DVI inputs rather than HDMI (yes, they are all HDCP compatible). As a result, I have not been able to test the HD7100 with the Toshiba, but hope to find a Toshiba in the next few days. I will update this review once I have tried the combination.

On that note, in speaking with Optoma about that very issue - compatibility, they, like all projector manufacturers, are looking for any possible compatibility problems. (Even if the fault is Toshiba's). I was reassured by two people at Optoma, that, if there is a need for new firmware, etc., that Optoma will take care of all existing owners of the HD7100, (most likely by swapping out the projectors, or maybe by providing a downloadable upgrade?) Considering few of us need rush into an HD-DVD player - as there are about 10 movie titles shipping at this time, I'll trust to Optoma to quickly take care of its customers if there are issues over the short term. "

Optoma has discontinued HD7300 per Visual Apex, and they have discontinued HD81, if I am not mistaken, both with the HD3000 scaler. So, it is unlikely that any new firmware will be available to solve the issues... once last of the 7100s are gone.

I don't know about PC yet but so far I have thrown Directv HD DVR, Toshiba A2 and PS3 all with HDMI to DVI at it with the HD3k in the chain and have NOT had a single issue with handshake. In fact I have not any issues whatsoever with this package. Very pleased.

I don't know about PC yet but so far I have thrown Directv HD DVR, Toshiba A2 and PS3 all with HDMI to DVI at it with the HD3k in the chain and have NOT had a single issue with handshake. In fact I have not any issues whatsoever with this package. Very pleased.

Is yours the original package or has it been updated?

I have a Toshiba A2 HD DVD Player set to 'up to 1080i'. I also have a Dish Network HD622 receiver set to output '1080i'.

Both hook up to the HD7300 projector (w/o the scaler in the loop) via the same HDMI cable via the DVI port on the 7300. I simply switch the HDMI cable between the two sources.

When I am watching the HD622, I get the '1920X1080' designation in the lower right portion of the HD7300's image. But, when I watch DVD's, the designation is '1280X720'. Is there a setting in either the HD7300 or the A2 that will force 1080i? Why am I not getting 1080i to the projector via the A2, but am via the HD622?

Thanks fellas,
George

Because, 622 lets you output 1080i (very loose standard adherence), whereas A2 performs a handshake with the projector and determines its native resolution is 1280x720 and decides to pass it that. There is a mention of something like this happening in the HD81 thread, where the handshake was not sensing the 48Hz input properly.

Because, 622 lets you output 1080i (very loose standard adherence), whereas A2 performs a handshake with the projector and determines its native resolution is 1280x720 and decides to pass it that. There is a mention of something like this happening in the HD81 thread, where the handshake was not sensing the 48Hz input properly.

Well, I'm really hoping that stops happening when I put the 3000 in the chain. I don't want the A2 scaling at all, let the 3000 do it.

I could have sworn that I was able to switch between 1080i and 720p when I first hooked up the projector to the A2. I could be mistaken about that though.

I still don't understand why the A2 would do anything to the output. I mean, the 7300 accepts 1080i so why would the A2 care, or even know for that matter? All the A2 might be aware of is the acceptable inputs through it's HDMI connection. The 7300 accepts 1080i so that should be the end of it, the A2 shouldn't do anything automatically in my opinion.

George

Is yours the original package or has it been updated?
Original.

Because, 622 lets you output 1080i (very loose standard adherence), whereas A2 performs a handshake with the projector and determines its native resolution is 1280x720 and decides to pass it that. There is a mention of something like this happening in the HD81 thread, where the handshake was not sensing the 48Hz input properly.

A2 can do 720 or 1080i, set it up in the menu. I am doing 1080i which is what is encoded on the disk and let the HD3k rescale it to 720. It is a preferred way. A2 dosen't decide the resolution in this case like PS3 in some cases..

A2 can do 720 or 1080i, set it up in the menu. I am doing 1080i which is what is encoded on the disk and let the HD3k rescale it to 720. It is a preferred way. A2 dosen't decide the resolution in this case like PS3 in some cases..

The problem is you can't select 1080i in the A2 menu, you select 'up to 1080i'.

George

When you have the scaler back, the A2 will output 1080i to it. The 7300 unit has a problem accepting it. When I was switching between my VP4001 and the 7300 my A3 would reset the resolution each time the switch was made, from 1080i down to 720P I presume.

Last three posts support my theory that the digital input on the projector is flaky at best... I suppose that is why they came up with neutered HD3000 :D

Last three posts support my theory that the digital input on the projector is flaky at best... I suppose that is why they came up with neutered HD3000 :D

I believe I said this a while back as well. There are interface issues that are solved by the 3000 in the loop but not all.

The surgeon is hard at work trying to fix my interface issues... hopefully he will figure out what the heck is wrong and fix it or send me a new PJ. I got it on 10/30/07 and used for less than a fortnight... Optoma has had it with them more than I had it... that really blows...

I believe it is the Toshiba doing this.
I had run the optoma w/o the hd3k for sometime and it consistently showed it was accepting 1080i from my Directv HD dvr and upconverting DVD player. I tried various rez to see which looked better.
Just the fact Toshiba says "up to 1080i" could mean that Toshiba defaults to native rez of the pj. For the same reason Toshiba will pass 1080 to hd3k since there is no native/priority set up in hd3k's firmware.
PS3 does that too. It selects the best rez but you can force it which cannot be done with the A2.

I believe it is the Toshiba doing this.
I had run the optoma w/o the hd3k for sometime and it consistently showed it was accepting 1080i from my Directv HD dvr and upconverting DVD player. I tried various rez to see which looked better.
Just the fact Toshiba says "up to 1080i" could mean that Toshiba defaults to native rez of the pj. For the same reason Toshiba will pass 1080 to hd3k since there is no native/priority set up in hd3k's firmware.
PS3 does that too. It selects the best rez but you can force it which cannot be done with the A2.

That's good to know CM. Really, all I need it to do is pass 1080i to the HD3000, if I ever get it back.

I'm now on day 3 of the 5 days I was told it would take to respond to emails. I have absolutely no idea how long it will take to get my 3000 back. Remember, I was under the false impression that the 5 day turnaround time I was quoted was for the 'fix', I now know it was the time required for responding to emails.

So, I guess I could do some reasonable guessing here; if it does take 5 days to respond to emails, how long would it take to 'fix' an HD3000? Ok, email... a couple seconds to open it and read it, a millisecond to select the canned response (of course not to worry that the canned response selected has absolutely nothing to do with the actual question), 15 minutes to type out the four word response (I mean it would be hard to type with only two fingers with a joint in one hand and a quart of beer in the other), 2 or 3 minutes to find, again, the damn send button.

Now, I have to come up with a formula to compare responding to emails to actual work... Let's see, what is required to 'fix' the HD3000?

Remove the cover
Replace a chip
Replace the cover
Plug it in
Upgrade the firmware

Ok, so that's 5 steps, and we can be fairly certain that odds are that on at least half of the HD3000's being fixed, at least one of the above steps will be missed, so that when we do eventually get our HD3000's back, they will still be locked at 720p.

Now, I'm not going to write my formula down but I think it to be pretty accurate just the same. The number that came out of the formula was...
4 months!

Luck all,
George

I've been watching this thread for a while but don't think I've seen anyone mention this annoying thing.

I use the component 1 input on the HD 7100. Every time I start my project, it defaults to DVI, so I have to select Component 1. To alleviate this annoying behavior, I tried multiple time to set "auto-detect source" to On, but it never remembers my setting when I shut the project down. I also tried to find a way to disable some inputs (I'm pretty sure the HD 70 was allowing me to do that), but I didn't find any ways of doing this.

Anyone else experiencing this?

I'm getting used to this, but my wife doesn't like to have to use 3 remotes when she starts up the home theater (projector, receiver and cable box), so if I could find a way to fix this, she would be happy!

I'm getting used to this, but my wife doesn't like to have to use 3 remotes when she starts up the home theater (projector, receiver and cable box), so if I could find a way to fix this, she would be happy!

Answer: Logitech Harmony remote :)

Answer: Logitech Harmony remote :)
Right on Brotha... My wife was about ready to launch those four remotes at me until Harmony 659 saved the day.

Now the only thing that goes wrong is when she presses an activity button (HTPC, Watch a movie, etc.) and doesn't put the darn thing down on the end of the coffee table facing the screen and LEAVE IT ALONE for 30 seconds. :) LOL I've told her this ~15 times that the remote is still sending delayed signals for 15-20 seconds and it needs to be pointed at the screen/equipment rack. Other than that small issue- it's great!!

Saved me a few remotes bouncing off the noggin. :p

I just got off the phone with Optoma, they are going to ship my projector/scaler back on Friday. There was some handshake issue between the scaler and the projector which has been resolved by firmware upgrades. It is to undergo 12 hours of testing in service and will be returned to me after that.

Gireesh

I just got off the phone with Optoma, they are going to ship my projector/scaler back on Friday. There was some handshake issue between the scaler and the projector which has been resolved by firmware upgrades. It is to undergo 12 hours of testing in service and will be returned to me after that.

Gireesh

What kind of handshake issues? I'm seeing quite a few handshake problems problems between my scalar and projector. I assumed it was because I needed a higher quality HDMI cable (which I just ordered). I'm going to be upset if my new $$$ cable arrives and it turns out to be a firmware issue. Do these firmware upgrades only apply to the patched scaler (i.e. new chip that they put in) or the neutered scaler?

Remember, I went down this path because two problems:

(1) Once I hooked the projector with scaler in the loop it would not sync back with my PC, when connected directly
(2) I was getting intermittent drop outs, after the above problem started, and I could not do 1:1 pixel mapping through the scaler.

I am still not sure which one is the culprit, whether it is the scaler or projector. I know it is not the cable or the PC, as I had a VPL-HS51 working well in this setup.

I was told that the projector is very sensitive to long cable runs. I asked for a cable recommendation and Optoma person suggested Accel(?).

Ok, I'm starting to get pissed off now.

Optoma told me that if I sent in my projector, there would be a 5 business day turnaround time line. It is now going on 8 business days and I've not heard one word from them.

I contact them today, have been trying all week and they never answer their phones at the service/repair center, via their regular number and was passed along to a voice mail, the guy I've been dealing with all along (you know, the one who says the howling and whirring sound of my HD3000 is the way they designed it to sound) sent me an email.

His email says that the information will be forthcoming from the repair/service center. A few minutes later I do get the email telling me that they can't figure out how to 'fix' my HD3000. That, all of a sudden it looks like they will need to do more than update the firmware, a chip needs to be replaced as well. Funny, but this was the exact reason I was given nearly a month ago as to why I couldn't simply do the update myself, a chip also needed replacing. Now, all of a sudden, that is the excuse as to why I'm not getting my HD3000 back. In fact, their email makes it sound like they have absolutely no idea when I will be getting it.

Just got another email telling me that they need to figure out what they are doing and there is a 'learning curve'. I don't want them practicing on my scaler, it was never even out of the shrink wrap. They should practice on their own equipment and just send us a HD3000 that hasn't been neutered.

Geez, I'm regretting ever buying this thing.

George

Ask them to send you a HD3000-S. That they can do.

Ask them to send you a HD3000-S. That they can do.

I agree.

Here is the biggest issue I think, I can't trust that they know what they are doing or what they are even saying anymore. I'm concerned that even if they were able to replace a chip and update the firmware, who would know if it
would then be 100% identical to the HD3000s. I don't trust that they even know if they would be the same or not.

What if, after all this, the HD3000 we end up with is something between the two? Are they going to start supporting this neutered and then jerry-rigged scaler when it comes time for firmware support? We might be throwing good money after bad now.

I really think the only solution is for them to take these units back and replace them with the HD3000s models, it's the only way that I will feel comfortable that's for sure.

George

If you ask me I say they are just booked with other things and playing it till they get to it.
They know what they need to know to get the job done but I could be wrong. Either wait and don't push them or ask them for "s" unit see if you have any luck.

I doubt they will go for that... the scaler itself costs more than combo. And, I don't think they have the scalers in stock.

I know it's hard at times waiting but there's a saying that you attract more flies with honey than vinegar unless your working on a new breed of flies

Wasn't there somebody here who sent their HD3000 in and got it back but it was still locked at 720p? If so, anybody know who that was?

I don't like being pushy but I'm starting to feel like I'm not going to be able to come out of this thing whole. I really don't have any faith that even if they hack my HD3000, it will be exactly like the stand alone unit. Maybe there is an inferior chip or some circuit that doesn't do what the stand alone unit does. There could be many differences between these two units and maybe those guys aren't smart enough to figure it out.

I don't follow the logic of the cost factor between the two units. They already have both units built so their costs are known. Now, they get another $300 to 'fix' our HD3000's. They have to pay their employees to work on them, the cost of the chip etc... Seems like it would be cheaper to just cross ship the stand alone unit then go through the expense of trying to 'fix' neutered version. They are going to have a liability afterwards as well, if something isn't right or fails, they are going to have to support these 'fixed' units, more cost.

Also, I don't like being given misinformation like I'm an idiot. They told me that the reason I couldn't simply update the firmware myself is because they had to also replace a chip. Now, they tell me that because of some unforeseen circumstance (they need to replace a chip as well as update the firmware), the work on my HD3000 will be delayed indefinitely. That is blatant lying or incompetence, either of which doesn't make me feel very good about the situation.

Something is wrong here and I just can't tell how serious it is. I might not be able to find out until it's too late. What happens if the work they do on my HD3000 is flawed in some way, but not so obvious that the thing doesn't work for awhile in some fashion. What would be my options if I find out later, like after the warranty is up, that the work they did didn't bring my HD3000 up to the quality of the stand alone unit? I mean, do we really know what they have actually promised us for our $300? I asked if the two units were identical with the exception of the firmware and was initially told, they didn't know. Then, I was told that a chip is different and would have to be changed. Maybe there are other important chips or hardware that are not going to be changed and our units will always be neutered in some fashion, even if they get them to output the other resolutions.

I probably would not be so upset about this had they been upfront and told me the truth before they took my money for the 'fix'. It's almost like getting screwed twice. The first time when they sell my a neutered HD3000 when all their advertisements state the specs on the stand alone unit with no mention that there is even a possibility of a neutered unit. Then, they take another $300 from me telling me they can do the job in 5 days, but now find out it might be weeks (the key here being they never even bothered to contact me, just left me calling and calling and leaving email after email with no response, only to finally let me in on the joke, that's the real pisser!)

George

All they need to do is to change the eprom chip and install the firmware to it. Everything else is just like the "S". Have you paid them?

All they need to do is to change the eprom chip and install the firmware to it. Everything else is just like the "S". Have you paid them?

Sure, they took my money before I was able to send it in. They wouldn't give me an RMA until they had my money.

How certain of you on your information regarding the differences between the stand alone unit and our units? Is this information available online anywhere? If it is true, it is great news but I'm wondering if that is all there is, why are they telling me that they are struggling with the procedure???

I'm just frustrated is all. The A2 doesn't do a very good job at scaling 1080i to the projectors 720p in my opinion, unless I'm watching HD DVD's with bad transfers. The IN72 really did a spectacular job with HD material, of course I didn't have the A2 then, but was sending the DN 622 HD material to it. And, it coupled with the Bravo D1 dvd player, I was able to 1:1 pixel map and that setup blows the HD DVD/HD7100 out of the water on SD DVD's.

I'm really looking forward to letting the scaler handle all that stuff, see what it can do.

Appreciate the feedback CM,
George

I think the engineers are getting a lot of pressure regarding this. The person I dealt with for past several days, who has been extremely nice, was a little edgy today.

Now I really wish I had bought the sharp from buy.com when I had the chance, instead of getting tangled in this mess.

I think the engineers are getting a lot of pressure regarding this. The person I dealt with for past several days, who has been extremely nice, was a little edgy today.

Now I really wish I had bought the sharp from buy.com when I had the chance, instead of getting tangled in this mess.

I thought you ordered it and was supposed to get it last week.:confused:
bub, give it a rest. You will be fine. It is just taking a bit longer.
Perhaps they don't have the Eprom yet. You never get to know the truth by calling/emailing them repeatedly.

I sent mine 10 days ago now, $60.00 for shipping, a person called Jeff Davis called me 3 weeks ago about my problem with the Hz, I could not answer the phone and he e-mailed me, I e-mailed him explaining all my problem and I wanted to have my scaler as the HD3000-S opened to all resolutions. I pasted the information from the instructions where you have everything opened and sent it to him. Lilibeth Santos emailed me the RMA form with UPGRADE, he told me if I could get an address in th US they could do it for me, sent the credit card info and I am still waiting, they have been nice with me so far. I think we should give them time to do it.
Since I bought my projector I have been reading this Thread every day and I am starting to regret the bought of this projector. I have already spent to much money for this projector, if they fix my scaler well I will be more than happy .

TEmptag, did you have any anwser from Optoma yet about they fixed wrong your HD3000

I have the Hd7300 without the scaler and mine does the same.I've been watching this thread for a while but don't think I've seen anyone mention this annoying thing.

I use the component 1 input on the HD 7100. Every time I start my project, it defaults to DVI, so I have to select Component 1. To alleviate this annoying behavior, I tried multiple time to set "auto-detect source" to On, but it never remembers my setting when I shut the project down. I also tried to find a way to disable some inputs (I'm pretty sure the HD 70 was allowing me to do that), but I didn't find any ways of doing this.

Anyone else experiencing this?

I'm getting used to this, but my wife doesn't like to have to use 3 remotes when she starts up the home theater (projector, receiver and cable box), so if I could find a way to fix this, she would be happy!

I've been watching this thread for a while but don't think I've seen anyone mention this annoying thing.

I use the component 1 input on the HD 7100. Every time I start my project, it defaults to DVI, so I have to select Component 1. To alleviate this annoying behavior, I tried multiple time to set "auto-detect source" to On, but it never remembers my setting when I shut the project down. I also tried to find a way to disable some inputs (I'm pretty sure the HD 70 was allowing me to do that), but I didn't find any ways of doing this.

Anyone else experiencing this?


Are you by any chance shutting off power to the projector, thereby taking it out of standby mode, and it looses its memory?

It's a 'feature' of the projector. Nothing you can do about it.

Set the "auto source" to off. Then it default to last input you used.
Auto source is for when you have multiple inputs.

Tonight I get some sort of tease.
Turned the pj on and noticed the image was stretched vertically and looked washed out.
Looking under menu realised all my grayscale set up zeroed and pj had revolted to default setting. After so much looking around to find out what was the problem, found out the resolution fed by the HD3k was 1440x960. WTF.. Turned the processor off and on.. Back to 720p again and everything looked as it should. I have no idea what was the deal but surely was a bump after 120 hrs of riding on a smooth road.

CaspianM are you going to update your 3000 or keep it as is?

I have not thought about it. But I might do it later on.

Tonight I hooked up my ps3 for the first time and wow..Looked better than A2 but I need to watch more to know for sure.
Nice PQ and worked extremly well except...
Did a test with 1080p@24 fps and HD3k accepted the signal but for some odd reasons I got red dots like it was raining blood in black portion of the image. Tried 1080i and was gone.
I am struggling to find out if it is the red sparkly related to the cable that cannot fully pass 1080p required bandwidth or it is the hd3k is doing it.

Are you talking about the cable between the player and HD3K? Doesn't 1920x1080@24 require less bandwidth than 1280x720@70Hz?

If you have resolutions locked HD3K, it will not output 1920x1080@24Hz.

Are you talking about the cable between the player and HD3K? Doesn't 1920x1080@24 require less bandwidth than 1280x720@70Hz?

If you have resolutions locked HD3K, it will not output 1920x1080@24Hz.

Requires a chip change. Not listed as supported in manual.

Are you talking about the cable between the player and HD3K? Doesn't 1920x1080@24 require less bandwidth than 1280x720@70Hz?

If you have resolutions locked HD3K, it will not output 1920x1080@24Hz.

I was referrring to the cable use between the ps3 and hd3k.
The hd3k acceps 1080p. I ran a test with a signal off my ps3 with 1080p only selected and accepted the signal and showed on screen as 1080p.
Did you mean 720P@72? I cannot run that kinda resolution off the source nor the hd3k unless the restriction is removed. If it is cable related I might have issues with that too.

Requires a chip change. Not listed as supported in manual.
It does accept 1080P. Output depends on your pj and the output option which in case of box is not there.

Even with the 'fix' of the HD3000, you aren't going to get 1920X1080p at 24Hz, that resolution isn't an option. Nor is 1280X720p at 48Hz.

Here are the HDTV resolutions supported;
1280X720p at 50Hz, 60Hz and 72Hz (note that the Optoma HD7100 will not display a proper image with 1280X720p at 72Hz)
1920X1080p at 48Hz, 50Hz and 60Hz

There are other PC HD resolutions but aren't relevant for our purposes unless you utilize an HTPC.

So, there is no way to use the HD7300 setup, either with or without the 'fix' of the HD3000 scaler, in an acceptable way for HD DVD's (or SD DVD's for that matter) since there is no way to eliminate 2:3 pulldown. Without the scaler, from an HD DVD player, you are limited to outputting either 720p or 1080i/p. We can forget about outputting 720p as HD DVD's are encoded at 1080p and we don't want the HD DVD player doing the scaling. So, we can output 1080p at either 24Hz, 48Hz, 72Hz or 60Hz, depending on the abilities of your HD DVD player. I believe the HD3000 will accept all these resolutions/timings. Now, we need the HD3000 to scale to 720p, the native resolution of the HD7100. Our choices are only 720p at 50Hz, 60Hz or 72Hz and since the HD7100 will not accept 72Hz, we are forced to let the 2:3 pulldown routine process the frames. Even if our HD DVD player will output at any multiple of 24fps, it isn't going to matter because we can't continue that process to the HD7100 because it won't accept the 72Hz 720p signal.

I believe this to be a great oversight on Optoma's part. I thought someone here said that HD7100 would accept a 720p 48Hz signal? Not even an option and the 720p 72Hz signal that is an option will not work with our projectors.

I received my HD3000 back today, initial reactions;
Every time it is powered up, it defaults to the service menu.
If you have an incompatible output resolution selected (incompatible to your display, you can not select resolutions outside the HD3000's parameters), you can not switch out of it as no signal will be displayed on your device so you can't see the HD3000's menu, be careful here.
I used the HD3000 for maybe two hours and it shut itself off once, forcing a complete power cycle to unfreeze it, wouldn't respond to any commands. The HD7100 displayed the 'searching for signal' icon.
It does not pass audio when used as an HDMI switcher, although for the life of me, I can't figure out why Optoma would do it this way, very inconvenient as it severely limits its functionality.
I notice no difference between the HD7100's scaler and the scaled image of the HD3000, with either HD DVD's or HDTV via Dish Network HD receiver, a major disappointment to me.

My personal assessment of my situation is I believe that the InFocus IN72 did such a great job at color accuracy and contrast that, even though it was only 480p, on my setup with a 100 inch Da-Lite HCCV screen and semi-dark room from a seating distance of 15 feet, I see very minimal difference between the two projectors, with or without the scaler in the mix.

I've always felt like my HD7100 was not focusing as well as it could. The IN72 was like a tack it was so sharp. Resolution isn't everything I guess.

I'm really disappointed in not being able to eliminate 2:3 pulldown for DVD's with this setup, a deal breaker for sure.

George

It has been listed in the use's manual that hd7300 is 720p pj. I never expeted to do 72 hz. It is not a CRT. Only a handfull of 1080p units accept higher refresh over 60 or less like 24 or 48.
Why in the world they shipped the unit with service menu enabled is beyond me. Crappy service.
I see less jaggies with hd3000 in the chain but have to have the right image to test.

George at least got his back... mine is still with them... and no news on when they will ship it... this is annoying the heck out of me. I cant get a hold of the tech service rep :mad:

@CaspianM, 72Hz is a common computer refresh rate... that is why I was expecting Optoma to support that, they make tons of business projectors.

George at least got his back... mine is still with them... and no news on when they will ship it... this is annoying the heck out of me. I cant get a hold of the tech service rep :mad:

Agree. The only way hd3k can be unlocked and used effectively is an upper end pj and even then if you are talking about digital most come with good scaler. I was thinking to send mine in later on to be used with my CRT.

Gireesh, looking at the specs of hd7300 again shows it will not 1:1 mapping with pc. The best rez is 1028x768 not 720 which explains the overscan.

But, I am outputting 1280x720 HDTV timings from the HTPC. One is supposed to get 1:1 pixel mapping with that. Without the scaler in the loop, my projector could do that till it stopped syncing on the HDMI port.

Mine finally arrived in Australia today as well. I'll give it a try tonight. I've already sold the 7100 so I'll be using it with my VP4001.

But, I am outputting 1280x720 HDTV timings from the HTPC. One is supposed to get 1:1 pixel mapping with that. Without the scaler in the loop, my projector could do that till it stopped syncing on the HDMI port.
hd7300 will NOT do 1:1 from a pc with 720p timing. you should output its pc resolution which is 1028x1268 in order to get the entire image. Even then it will not be 1:1 exactly.
For 1:1 you need HDMI or componenet at 720p input singal witha verified source.

Oh wait, I rememmber reading you were doing HDMI with your pc. If that is the case disregard my comments as they are about VGA. You should be able to 1:1 with pc via HDMI.

Mine finally arrived in Australia today as well. I'll give it a try tonight. I've already sold the 7100 so I'll be using it with my VP4001.
Does marantz accept 48 or 72?

Dunno. I'll find out tonight.

:)

Does marantz accept 48 or 72?

from looking quickly at the manual. Not specified. Only give computer and DTV
vertical frequencies.

http://us.marantz.com/DFU_VP4001_Final_eng.pdf

None of these older generation would do other than 50 and 60 hz unless it is this year'a model or a1080p unit.

Page 60 under DTV.

It's not a biggie. I'm upgrading to a 1080P in the next month or so anyway. Just waiting for the Epson and Benq W5000 reviews to start coming in.

"I notice no difference between the HD7100's scaler and the scaled image of the HD3000, with either HD DVD's or HDTV via Dish Network HD receiver, a major disappointment to me."

I am now glad I stuck with the stand-alone 7100. I've read all the posts and not one mentions an improvement in PQ with the scaler, only thwarted expectations and faint hopes that it will enhance a different projector purchased sometime in the future. My
H20 directv box and Sony upconverting DVD player do a splendid job of feeding signal to the 7100 which in turn throws up a crisp, accurately colored HD picture on my 118" Carada BW screen. I could not understand what the HD3000 added to the picture and now I know, nothing. Maybe someone will speak up and indicate an improvement in some area. I'll stand by. Other than some esoteric tweaking of gamma or temperature settings that could not be discerned by most humans, I think nothing. Was Optoma simply cashing in on videophiles tendency to think there most to be an improvement if they paid $$$ for it? Don't open the case, you might be disappointed to find nothing except extension cord wiring.

I'm actually not expecting much of an improvement with HD. I'm hoping to get the quality of SD sources closer to HiDef.

And since I paid $1099 for my 7300 combo, and just sold the 7100 alone for $1200, it's a reasonably risk-free experiment.

it's been said before, one of the problems with these forums is you always here about the negatives but not much about the positives of an experience.

"I notice no difference between the HD7100's scaler and the scaled image of the HD3000, with either HD DVD's or HDTV via Dish Network HD receiver, a major disappointment to me."

I am now glad I stuck with the stand-alone 7100. I've read all the posts and not one mentions an improvement in PQ with the scaler, only thwarted expectations and faint hopes that it will enhance a different projector purchased sometime in the future. My
H20 directv box and Sony upconverting DVD player do a splendid job of feeding signal to the 7100 which in turn throws up a crisp, accurately colored HD picture on my 118" Carada BW screen. I could not understand what the HD3000 added to the picture and now I know, nothing. Maybe someone will speak up and indicate an improvement in some area. I'll stand by. Other than some esoteric tweaking of gamma or temperature settings that could not be discerned by most humans, I think nothing. Was Optoma simply cashing in on videophiles tendency to think there most to be an improvement if they paid $$$ for it? Don't open the case, you might be disappointed to find nothing except extension cord wiring.

There are differences whether or not one realizes those could be the difference.:)

7100 deinterlacer is inferior to that of the Gennum and uses an old fasion way to scale down the 1080i to 720p. That is, for some, not as trivial as it seems. Gamma tweak is also a good tool for various signals that the switcher is providing under different profiles. Gennum is also very good for 480p to 720p better than 7100's pixelwork.

And the one I truely appreciate is the primery and secondary color tweak that is lacking under 7100/7300 menu. Put all together you have a nice package not to mention some other worthy features that I did not mention.

Not saying that 7100/7300 is not a good pj by itself but adding all the refinements make a noticeable improvement on PQ.

I appreciate your defense of the much maligned HD3000, Caspian. I hope you realize I was being a bit facetious in my post and if at the time I purchased my 7100 for $2,300 could have added the scaler for $200 I would have been there. In fact I will pay $200 for a neutered HD3000 if anyone wants to sell.

No I did not realize that you were humorous.
Another option that I like is the choice of deinterlacing for film or video which is not there for DVI input. I assume that the pj defaults to auto or passthrough. Hence allowing you to pre process the deinterlacing properly and then feed to the hd7300.

Unbelievable.

I've plugged in the HD3000 and it has no problem shaking hands with my VP4001, or recognising the various input resolutions being fed from my prepro - 5761/576P/480i/720P/1080i/1080P are all welcomed with open arms.

Then I decided to check the output resolution. I go into the System menu looking for the Output Resolution type, ready to change it to 1080i just to confirm everything is A-OK.

Well, you can guess what comes next. There is no Output Resolution setting for me to change. Those *******s at Optoma haven't changed a damn thing. They haven't even upgraded the old firmware, which currently reads: HD3000-U720P C04 2007/01/22.

So for my $299, plus $100 to ship to Australia I have got precisely nothing. The first thing I am doing in the morning is a chargeback from American Express. The second thing will be a series of nasty emails to the person I talked to repeatedly at Optoma - Jeff Davis. The third thing, most likely, will be to put this neutered 'scaler' onto eBay.

I've owned five of their projectors, but I will never buy another Optoma product again.

As I said, ****ing unbelievable.

I'll report later how it compares to the upscaling in my DVD player and prepro.

Optoma sucks.

:)Hi there,

i'm following this post from a while now and i'd like to share my experience with Optoma Europe...This is the THIRD HD3000 i have in hand.

The first one was obviously not working properly with vertical lines into component in,
The second one, well, didn't power on AT ALL !!!! :confused:
The third one works A BIT !!! :)

I'm smiling coz' i'm a bit tired. Each time i power on a source PRIOR to the scaler, it hangs up the scaler for a couple of hours, cannot power it off through the remote or the front panel, must unplug the AC adaptor...insane....

Anyone got this problem ?

I assume that, as this is the third one i have in my possession, Optoma got a problem with this unit. When it works, well, it's huge, but this unit seems ******...

what can i do...i really do not understand.

Thks
D

Mine is at Optoma, I hope they fix mine ok but after all I read here I doubt it. I may sell my scaler if they did not do anything to it. I wish I had not bought this projector.

Bub or Steve, do you guys know if you can choose 720p 50HZ?

I can't choose anything.

There is no menu setting for Output Resolution. It just sends what it wants to the projector, presumably what it thinks it needs. It may well be sending 720P 50Hz for PAL material.

Steve it could be that it is not offerring a choice due to your pj since it is a 729p pj.
Just make sure. You will need a 1080p pj to test.

Bub or Steve, do you guys know if you can choose 720p 50HZ?

Yes, I believe I tried 720p 50Hz, but the projector didn't like it. It certainly is an option in my settings, along with all the other stated resolutions found in the owners manual.

I too had to physically unplug my HD3000 from power as it was froze solid only after about 20 minutes of use. I was able to run it for about an hour and a half without it happening again, not that that is any proof of future stability for sure.

My unit was never even removed from its factory shrink wrap before I sent mine to Optoma for the 'fix'. It came back all scuffed up on top, although that is hidden in my media rack. It just shows an overall lack of concern/respect on Optoma's part. I could keep that piece of electronics for another 10 years and never put another mark on it.

It still amazes me that on Thursday of last week, I was contacted by two Optoma reps both claiming they didn't know what the procedure required to 'fix' my HD3000 was nor did they have any idea when I would be getting it back. Yet, the very next day, it is magically 'fixed' and on its way back to me, with upgraded shipping to boot. Why they would cause all this drama with me for absolutely no reason is bizarre. I fully expected to receive either my original HD3000 with absolutely nothing done to it, or a totally different HD3000 possibly the stand alone unit. They convinced me on Thursday that my wait might be counted in weeks not days.

I still have not heard anything from the CEO, which I fully expect to both hear back from him and get my $314 refunded. I'm not going quietly. I also feel like this might be my last Optoma product, although I really hate saying 'never'.

If anybody needs to know anything or have me do anything with my 'fixed' HD3000, I am more than willing. There are some interesting pieces of information in the service menu, all the chips and firmware dates for each along with some other 'stuff'. Seems dangerous to me and makes me wonder if something is wrong with my firmware, to see the service menu at initial power up every time. There are also a couple of small windows/boxes on my service menu that say something like, 'running batch file' and 'failed'. Anybody got any ideas? Next time I use the HD3000, I will make a note of what they say exactly.

Luck all,
George

Also, when I connect using option 2, with the short HDMI cable between To/From AV Receiver, I do get some noise coming through to my display. It isn't the audio portion of the signal but some loud interference. I still can't figure out why Optoma would cut audio transmission of the HDMI signal when hooked up this way. You would think it a simple matter to pass through audio without being processed in the HD3000 while processing the video, Perhaps there is a reason? I'm just wondering how I would use my displays speakers with a direct audio connection with this loud interference being passed through the HD3000 though? Obviously, not a problem for projectors as they are paired with sound systems but for stand alone displays that use internal speakers, how are those supposed to be used with this interference coming from the HD3000?

I can't choose anything.

There is no menu setting for Output Resolution. It just sends what it wants to the projector, presumably what it thinks it needs. It may well be sending 720P 50Hz for PAL material.

Steve, your HD3000 definitely has a problem. If you can see the HD3000's menu on your display, then you can find the resolution options screen and make selections. If you do not have this screen, then your HD3000 is still locked, although I can't be for sure about that as I never used my HD3000 before sending it in for 'fixing'. But, I can see all the output options on both my HD7100 and 1080p LCD.

A really horrible problem though is if you do select an output resolution that is unsupported by your display, there is no way to 'go back' as you can't see the HD3000 menu. It's weird though, after you select a new output resolution, a small window pops up that says, keep the new resolution yes/no? Unfortunately, even if you don't accept, it changes anyways and if your display doesn't like it, you have to hook the HD3000 up to something else to see the menu so that you can change the resolution again. What happens if you select a resolution that none of your displays likes???

Remember though, all my observations are from very limited HD3000 use. There could be solutions that I just haven't figured out yet. My initial impression though is the HD3000 lacks sophistication as far as basic operations. I've yet to mess with any of the other video processing options.

George

Steve, let me know if you want to walk through any of the options on my unit. At least mine has been altered by Optoma.

OptomUSA sucks as a company. I have had my share of unusual experience with them.
They lied, hung up the phone and gave wrong info when I contacted them regarding throw distance. A bunch of lunatic with hi level of unethical work habit run this branch.
Where is Tom to throw a few words here?? He was the one who promoted this upgrade and said for $300 you will "HOT ROD" the hd3k!!

I just wrote to Optoma (Jeff and Lilibieth santos) about the problem of this firmwares updated, I have already spent $100.00 in shipping; and I still have to pay to the forwarder to the FPO address.

Steve, your scaler seems to have the same problem than Temtag's, he did not say yet what's hapenning with his scaler. it seems they did not do anything on it.

Bob, thank you for the info, if mine can use 50 HZ I would be happy but it sounds that your firmware did not load properly. we are paying $229.00 + shipping for a work well done....

so far, my projector is doing well, when it was 35 hours I had my first bulb issue, it did not light, I turned it off with the remote; wait 10 minutes and turn it on, worked fine.now it has 44 hours.

do you guys think I can imrpove my picture quality when I hooke up my HD3k.

Rignt now I am using components cable with my dvd player and I get a resolution of
720 x 476 ( I thinK) is this resolution going to be better with the HD3k.

Thanks all. The image quality is very good, and I really like the flexibility of some of the advanced settings since the Marantz has limitations (no Gamma adjust for example). And it works beautifully with the Marantz. The combo would make a very nifty CIH setup.

If I were planning on keeping the Marantz for ever I might not be so steamed. But I am going to upgrade to 1080P soon and so the HD3000 is basically worthless for me. Resale will suck too for the same reason. I too wish I'd never bit on the New Egg deal.

Bub,

Could you post your firmware version from the System screen? I'd like to see what it says.

Poli,

Yes, you will get a better picture going from the scaler via DVI. Your 7100 is already upscaling to 720P.

I hope that at least my projector detect the scaler via HDMI, I bought a 35' monster HDMI ($200.00) and it did not dectect it.

Even with the 'fix' of the HD3000, you aren't going to get 1920X1080p at 24Hz, that resolution isn't an option. Nor is 1280X720p at 48Hz.

Here are the HDTV resolutions supported;
1280X720p at 50Hz, 60Hz and 72Hz (note that the Optoma HD7100 will not display a proper image with 1280X720p at 72Hz)
1920X1080p at 48Hz, 50Hz and 60Hz

There are other PC HD resolutions but aren't relevant for our purposes unless you utilize an HTPC.

So, there is no way to use the HD7300 setup, either with or without the 'fix' of the HD3000 scaler, in an acceptable way for HD DVD's (or SD DVD's for that matter) since there is no way to eliminate 2:3 pulldown. Without the scaler, from an HD DVD player, you are limited to outputting either 720p or 1080i/p. We can forget about outputting 720p as HD DVD's are encoded at 1080p and we don't want the HD DVD player doing the scaling. So, we can output 1080p at either 24Hz, 48Hz, 72Hz or 60Hz, depending on the abilities of your HD DVD player. I believe the HD3000 will accept all these resolutions/timings. Now, we need the HD3000 to scale to 720p, the native resolution of the HD7100. Our choices are only 720p at 50Hz, 60Hz or 72Hz and since the HD7100 will not accept 72Hz, we are forced to let the 2:3 pulldown routine process the frames. Even if our HD DVD player will output at any multiple of 24fps, it isn't going to matter because we can't continue that process to the HD7100 because it won't accept the 72Hz 720p signal.

I believe this to be a great oversight on Optoma's part. I thought someone here said that HD7100 would accept a 720p 48Hz signal? Not even an option and the 720p 72Hz signal that is an option will not work with our projectors.

I received my HD3000 back today, initial reactions;
Every time it is powered up, it defaults to the service menu.
If you have an incompatible output resolution selected (incompatible to your display, you can not select resolutions outside the HD3000's parameters), you can not switch out of it as no signal will be displayed on your device so you can't see the HD3000's menu, be careful here.
I used the HD3000 for maybe two hours and it shut itself off once, forcing a complete power cycle to unfreeze it, wouldn't respond to any commands. The HD7100 displayed the 'searching for signal' icon.
It does not pass audio when used as an HDMI switcher, although for the life of me, I can't figure out why Optoma would do it this way, very inconvenient as it severely limits its functionality.
I notice no difference between the HD7100's scaler and the scaled image of the HD3000, with either HD DVD's or HDTV via Dish Network HD receiver, a major disappointment to me.

My personal assessment of my situation is I believe that the InFocus IN72 did such a great job at color accuracy and contrast that, even though it was only 480p, on my setup with a 100 inch Da-Lite HCCV screen and semi-dark room from a seating distance of 15 feet, I see very minimal difference between the two projectors, with or without the scaler in the mix.

I've always felt like my HD7100 was not focusing as well as it could. The IN72 was like a tack it was so sharp. Resolution isn't everything I guess.

I'm really disappointed in not being able to eliminate 2:3 pulldown for DVD's with this setup, a deal breaker for sure.

George

George, my HD7100 has been doing 1280x720 at 48 and 72 Hz for hundreds of hours from SD DVD w/o 2:3 pulldown. I use a Bravo D1 with custom resolutions and the PQ is amazing :)
You may wish to check your set up/ pj again on this.

It does with analog but not HDMI.

I hope that at least my projector detect the scaler via HDMI, I bought a 35' monster HDMI ($200.00) and it did not dectect it.

POLI, I don't think you will have any problems there... the two are very well paired... once you mate them and break them up, the projector suffers from severe emotional issues!!!

CaspianM, are you sure about the 48Hz and 72Hz via VGA and not HDMI... to begin with the projector does not have an HDMI, but a DVI connector, which has it roots in computer displays.

Unfortunately I CAN'T TEST ANYTHING... :mad: :mad: :mad: :mad: :mad:

No one at Optoma can tell me WTF is going on with my scaler and projector :mad: :mad: :mad: :mad: :mad:

I never understood why my projector only work for the first time with the scaler, after I switched off the scaler the first time, the projector never decteted the HD3k anymore; neither with the cable that came with the projector nor my monster HDMI cable + adapter and I did everything I was told to do. I never got back the menu on the screen.

George, my HD7100 has been doing 1280x720 at 48 and 72 Hz for hundreds of hours from SD DVD w/o 2:3 pulldown. I use a Bravo D1 with custom resolutions and the PQ is amazing :)
You may wish to check your set up/ pj again on this.

Hey FGM, the HD3000 has no option for 1280X720 48Hz, but does for 1280X720 72Hz. I will revisit that resolution/timing for sure as that is quite the deal breaker for me. What's the point of a projector if you can't watch DVD's? We should be able to eliminate 2:3 pulldown with our HD7100/HD3000 setups!

I also have a Bravo D1 and have been using it with my InFocus IN72, 854X480 48Hz is amazing. So, I guess you don't have the HD3000 as you would have no way of getting the D1's DVI to the projector with the scaler in the loop.

I wanted to point out an error in one of my earlier posts, there is a front panel up arrow button that allows you to cycle resolutions should you select one that is outside the parameters of your display. So, even without the HD3000's OSD, you could still change resolutions.

Steve, I will be firing up my system here shortly and I will post my firmware numbers and dates.

George

Ok, I'm definitely having problems with my 'fixed' HD3000. It will not come out of standby, needs to power cycle every time. It will only pass video to my HD7100 at 1280X720p 60Hz! I can select other resolution/timing options and the HD7100 locks on but there is only a blue screen (I think this is sent by the HD3000).

I'm almost 100% certain that I did pass 1080p 60Hz to my 1080p LCD, but will have to check again.

Do not turn on your source before you turn on the HD3000, it will not see it.

Ok FGM, here is the information from the Service Mode screen (which I'm assuming I see every time because of the force power cycle to get this thing to come on).

Firmware version, HD3000-U D07 2007/01/22

Here is what is shown on the Service Mode screen when the HD3000 comes on;
Test Results
Hours 6376 Cycles (shown in a 'dialog window')
Error Burn Start... (also dialog window)

HD3000-U D07 2007.01.22
Gennum U33 D07 2007.01.22
Gennum U34 D07 2007.01.22
MCU U126 (the 'U' could have been a '4') D07 2007.01.22
EDID B 2007.01.10
CPLD-128 D01 2005.12.17
CPLD-100 C01 2005.12.17
HDMI_RX D04 2006.12.08
HDMI-TX C02 2006.11.21
OSD-1 D07 2007.01.22
OSD-2 N/A
OSD-3 N/A
OSD-4 N/A

This is a real pisser. I'm going to watch King Kong HD DVD to see if the HD3000 shuts off again after a half hour or so.

George

I never understood why my projector only work for the first time with the scaler, after I switched off the scaler the first time, the projector never decteted the HD3k anymore; neither with the cable that came with the projector nor my monster HDMI cable + adapter and I did everything I was told to do. I never got back the menu on the screen.

POLI, you have to turn on units in the following order for proper handshaking to happen:

(1) Turn on the HD7300
(2) Turn on the HD3000, handshake happens between 7300 and 3000, digital display device with HDCP is recognized by the scaler, it is now ready to tell whoever connects to it that it is an HDCP compliant device
(3) Turn on your sources, such as DVD/HD DVD/BD players etc. HD3000 will appear to these as an HDCP compliant device.


Hope this helps.

Ok, I'm definitely having problems with my 'fixed' HD3000. It will not come out of standby, needs to power cycle every time. It will only pass video to my HD7100 at 1280X720p 60Hz! I can select other resolution/timing options and the HD7100 locks on but there is only a blue screen (I think this is sent by the HD3000).

I'm almost 100% certain that I did pass 1080p 60Hz to my 1080p LCD, but will have to check again.

This is a real pisser. I'm going to watch King Kong HD DVD to see if the HD3000 shuts off again after a half hour or so.

George

Ok, the HD3000 is not sending video to my 1080p panel at any other resolution besides 1280X720 60Hz. All other resolutions show blue screen just like with the HD7100. WTF is going on here?

I am now getting the audio over the HDMI through the HD3000, but am still getting the interference as well. Remember, before I was only getting the interference, no audio at all.

So, the only video I see with either my HD7100 or my 1080p LCD panel is the HD3000's locked resolution of 1280X720p 60Hz. When selecting any other output resolution in the HD3000, it sends the signal but without video. Both displays show the selected resolution (if supported) but no video is passed, only a blue screen.

George

Bub you need to call them to see how you can disable the service menu before conducting tests.
Gireesh, look up page 60 under PC compatibility. It says you should be able to do 720 with PC with DVI but not with VGA. I meant DVI in previous post but I typed HDMI.

I hooked up my HD7300 projector yesterday, and have been playing around with it for the last two days. Mainly, I was trying to determine seating distance, because I'm in the middle of a remodel of my theater, and was planning on building a riser for the second row. So I was going thru all kinds of material, and trying out various seating distances, trying to determine exactly how far back my front row and back row will be.

During all this sampling, I noticed two things about this projector:

1. The picture quality is very good.

2. SDE is off the freaking charts at almost any distance.

What the heck is going on with Screen Door Effect and this projector? I kept moving my seating distance farther and farther back, and could still easily see SDE issues. My previous projector was the Mits HD1000u, and I didn't have any SDE issues with that projector unless I moved the seating super close, much closer than anybody would want to sit.

Is there some setting or something that I need to adjust? It's hard for me to believe that people can be happy with the SDE that I'm seeing.

SDE wasn't a problem with mine using a 120" screen from 13 feet.

I have a response to my rather cranky email to Optoma. They are going to look into the 'mix up' to see what was done.

Well, I know what was done.

Nothing.

I see no pixels at 13' from 8' wide. Some use the grid lines as guid to focus the lens and that is not exactly the way to focus a digital pj with highly revealing lens suchas the 7300's. A resolution chart or one pixel line is the way. There are patterns designed to aim focus procedure as well in most calibrating software. It just needs a bit of practice.

Screen door isn't an issue at all for mine with my 106" at 13 feet, and I have Lasik corrected vision of 20/15.

Hmm, maybe I am focusing the wrong way. Normally, the way I would try to dial in the focus, is when you see the words on the screen, when it is searching for the input, when you first turn it on. I would dial in the focus until the letters are super sharp.

Is there a specific thing I could use in the THX optimizer to dial in the focus to not see the grid? I have Toy Story on regular DVD and I know it has the THX optimizer on it. I'm also renting Cars on Blu Ray right now, it might have an optimizer on that as well, I'm not sure.

Anthony, I've never noticed any screen door either on mine, although I'm just moving up from 480p. But, I've always felt like my HD7100 wasn't focusing as good as it should/could.

Anyways, got an email from Optoma, they want the scaler back, although they did say that after they worked on it, they tested 1080p and it worked fine (for what it's worth).

George

Forgot to mention that, even though I mentioned all the problems I was having with the HD3000 (refusing to turn on unless I've unplugged it and plugged it back in, doesn't pass audio over HDMI, the service mode menu is active each time it is powered on, and of course no other output resolution/timings actually send video with the exception of 1280X720 60Hz, which coincidentally is the locked resolution/frequency of the HD3000 we all got with our packages), the only response was that 1080p was tested and working. HoHoHo

Optoma have graciously condescended to refund the $299 I paid to have nothing done. They declined the opportunity to recompense me for the shipping or general fudging about that their ineptness has caused, or to indicate that they may have in fact completely stuffed up.


So I will be placing the HD3000 on eBay tonight for anyone who wants one. The 720P output is great, but I prefer not to have anything from them in my house.

Optoma have graciously condescended to refund the $299 I paid to have nothing done. They declined the opportunity to recompense me for the shipping or general fudging about that their ineptness has caused, or to indicate that they may have in fact completely stuffed up.

Here's my response: **** you, Optoma.

So I will be placing the HD3000 on eBay tonight for anyone who wants one. The 720P output is great, but I prefer not to have anything from them in my house.

Steve, I'm sorry you were put through such a hassle, especially for nothing.

George

Not for nothing.

I'll actually make money out of this given my 7100 has already sold for what I paid for the combo.

I have no real idea what the HD3000 is worth, but since it can be upgraded to 1080P and is a Gennum VXP with all sorts of cool tricks it should be over $500 and hopefully much more.

The closest competitors are the DVDO VP50 and the Crystalio which sell for $2K+ on eBay. Get the HD3000 upgraded and you have a better unit for half the price.

Well, that will be my eBay item description spiel anyway.

:)