Note: the last thread on this topic got personal and nasty and was ultimately deleted. Please keep it mature or this thread will go the same way. Please do not even comment or refer to the non PJ specific issues from the old thread.


I thought I'd post my experiences with the Optoma HD7100. For reference, I have owned an 8" Electrohome CRT, NEC LT150, PLV60, and for the last 4 or so years, a Sharp 9000. For about a week, I also recently owned a Sony Ruby. I have a 100% light controlled theater with dark fabric walls. I’m currently using an original Stewart Grayhawk, but also have a piece of Ultramatte 200 microperf. Sources are Panasonic RP56 at 480p and Tivo HR10-250 HD Sat PVR. MSRP of the 7100 is currently $3999. I ordered the HD7100 from Jason at AVS for an amazing price that included a second bulb. I can't say enough about the positive experience I have had ordering through AVS. For some reason I always expected them to be more expensive than low cost options on the internet, but in addition to the great service, I got the best price I could find anywhere. The 7100 is easily the least expensive HD3 DLP PJ available. I set color temp to 6500, Gamma to 2.2, and did a relatively quick calibration with Avia. Bottom line is that the HD7100 produces an outstanding image for the money, and should be on anyone’s short list for consideration of a PJ in the 3k range. Of course, it was not without issue.

The Good
Black Levels and Contrast Ratio: Short of my old CRT, the 7100 had the best black levels I ever remember seeing, including the Ruby. The contrast ratio was also outstanding and probably better than any DLP not using an iris.

Detail: The 7100 produces an exceptionally sharp and well focused image. Some have claimed this is a result of outstanding optics.

Color: Out of the box, the color was as close to purpose as I could tell without a color analyzer.

Size: The 7100 is a very small unit, and will consume less space than most good HT PJs.

The "Not Good" and Bad
Noise: Noise is rated at 32db on Optima’s site. Some have indicated that this is for High Brightness mode. The PJ is definitely not as loud when it is not in High Brightness mode. I found the 7100 to be comparable in noise level to my Sharp 9000. The noise was tolerable, but as long as you have decent hearing, and the PJ is < 10 feet from your sitting position (which it will be), you WILL hear it. Still, it is not overly loud, and most will tune it out during the quiet scenes when it is audible. I would not have been as disappointed in this aspect of the PJ had I not just experienced the nearly silent Ruby.

Placement Flexibility:
Biggest issue for me is the short throw lens at 1.25-1. This put the PJ immediately above my first row of seating. My Sharp is mounted in the rear of the theater where it is less visibly obtrusive in the room, and also less audible. It is also my understand that the offset capabilities are relatively limited, but this was not an issue for me. While throw was a big issue for me, the PJ does have Horizontal and Vertical lens shift, which can be omitted in value projectors.

Shadow detail:
While this may be a gamma calibration issue, it has been noted by other as well. The shadow detail is not BAD, but it is where I'd expect it to be for this PJ. I tried to correct with different gamma, Contrast, an Brightness settings, but never got it looking very good. Again, it was not bad...

Screen Door Effect:
For some reason, this PJ seems to produce more SDE than other DLPs. It is significantly worse than my 1st gen Sharp. It was an issue at about 1.25 x screen width for me. I also noted it was WAY worse on the higher gain Ultramatte fabric, and nearly a non issue on the Grayhawk.

Rainbow Effect:
The 7100 uses a 4x/6 segment color wheel which is not as fast as most HT projectors these days. I did see rainbows on the 7100 if I tried, but did not find them any worse than many other HT projectors. The rainbows were significantly worse though than the BenQ 8720 which uses a 5x wheel.

My Situation:
Between the SDE, shadow detail, and mounting issues, I decided this PJ was not the best choice for me. The AVS "platinum guarantee" is amazing, and allows for full refunds (less shipping) if you are not satisfied. The nail in the 7100 coffin for me was the fact that the last time I powered it on, I hear a loud buzz, clicking, and the a load POP. It will not even power up now. I have decided to spend the extra $ and get the BenQ 8720. I don't think this is wise decision. I have a decent PJ and should wait for the 1080p DLPs to be released as they should cause the price on higher end 720p DLPs to fall fast.

Conclusion
The HD7100 is by far the cheapest DC3 DLP PJ available. It produces an exceptional image with outstanding black levels and detail. It does have some relatively minor issues; any of which could become a deal breaker depending on what is important to you.

Other HD7100 reviews:
http://www.avscience.com/reviews/projector_optoma_hd7100.htm
http://www.projectorreviews.com/Manufacturers/optoma/HD7100/index.asp
http://www.projectorcentral.com/optoma_hd7100.htm

Thanks for the review Greenhut. I think you are right when you say to wait for the 1080p projectors to come out. I just noticed that Optoma is offering a $300 rebate on the 7100 now.

I couldn't get the Toshiba HDA1 to work to well with the HD7100, just got one yesterday. It worked a couple of times but mainly loses the HDMI hand shake. The player will be recognized at first but the projector goes into re-sync when the player goes into play and 1080i is sent. The hand shake is lost and you get HDMI error. For the three times I got it to work I got 25 times when it didn't. So back goes the Tosh, I'll wait for the next series. Plus the Tosh has a low level signal you'll need a very short cable or digital amplifier. Only my 15' cable would work, no 25' or 35'.

greenhut, sounds like your bulb blew up. If the glass didn't shatter inside you should hv tried your other bulb. I have a couple of new tips. Trying Color Temp/Native it's brighter, also set the Y/C coordinates to X 16 and Y -9.

Tom, did your HDA1 have the new firmware update? The new update is supposed to take care of the HDMI error problem. I have an H77 connected with a 30' DVI cabel, and I have no problems with the hand shake.

I'll check for it but Fry's just got this in yesterday. I was ready to slam it, remindes me of Vinc Bravo times, reboot reboot.

greenhut,

Thanks for having the fortitue to start an "Official" 7100 thread. Sounds like there are some initial issues with the PJ. I hear you on the picture, but I don't want to feel like I have to cross my fingers every time I "flip the switch". I unlike you can't pop the extra $ for the 8720 (although I'd like to) I have been looking hard at the Epson 550 and then this little critter came along and is also on my short list too. I've got to stay under 3g's for my price point so I thought that this little PJ may just be the answer.

Still for me the jury's out, still doing a lot of searching and reading.

Again thanks for going out on a limb.

Any other owners want to chime in?

Regards,

RTROSE

I mentioned on the deleted thread that I received one with a defect. In switching sources it would shut down and the "lamp overheat" light would come on. I just got the replacement from Jason installed this evening and haven't had the time to mess with it much yet. As is my usual situation, I had to rework my homebrew ceiling mount about three times before I was confident in it's capablities to hold the thing. So far (tonight) so good.

rking,

I would like to hear about your "second first impression" with this PJ. Just remember that duct tape fixes anything!

Regards,

RTROSE

Plus the Tosh has a low level signal you'll need a very short cable or digital amplifier. Only my 15' cable would work, no 25' or 35'.


The weak HDMI transmitter may be specific to your individual unit. My HDA1 works without problem over a 33' copper DVI cable, Lindys SLAC DVI cable. I do have problems with rented disks not playing because of very minor disk damage, which seems to be a common experience with this player.

Glenn

I think the problem may be the projectors ability to pull the signal. Plus the HD7100 goes into find the signal once the Toshiba start sending 1080i. I tried the HDa1 with my HT1000 tonight and go no handshake problems, just sparlies from the 35' DVI cable. The NEC is also noted for low pull levels. More testing needed.

I see in the manual (downloaded from optomausa.com) that there is a "White Peaking" (p. 31) or "White Enhance" (p. 45) setting. So does the HD7100's color wheel have a white segment?

-- Peter

Greenhut-
Great write-up. Thanks for the insights.

No white segment it's RGB/RGB 4x. WP makes the whites more pure and increased contrast. This one doesn't crush out white like others I've tested. You could use it for Football games.

Tom, did your HDA1 have the new firmware update? The new update is supposed to take care of the HDMI error problem. I have an H77 connected with a 30' DVI cabel, and I have no problems with the hand shake.

It has 1.2/1.09/2.0p which I think is the latest and greatest. The Tosh worked well last night with the HT1000 though the image looked super soft compared to the HD7100. I'll test it more with the HD7100 today and if I get the same problems I'll hv to take it back. The HDA1 is really a waste to use it with the HT1000.

rking,

I would like to hear about your "second first impression" with this PJ. Just remember that duct tape fixes anything!

Regards,

RTROSE
Well, second first impression is not good. I have had two events in two days where the unit has gone dead at turn on and I have had to climb up and unplug the power to get the bulb to fire. I guess I will be taking to Jason about another return. I haven't tried the computer input yet, and as of now see no reason to try it. I think I will have to look at something else. I am NOT pleased at all. This thing is not ready for prime time. If it were reliable I could fall in love with it, but I'd rather not have a unit that I will have to worry about how long it will last while watching it. I am open to suggestions for another unit in the same price rane. What do you guys say? It has to be able to project a 4' high image from about 11' throw distance so that I don't have to put more holes in the ceiling.

Tom,

I went through the same thing with my H57 and the HD-A1. Always 'HDMI Error 1' or 'HDMI Error 2' and never once was able to connect.

I sent the pj into Optoma Canada and bless their hearts they went out and purchased the Toshiba HD-A1 player specifically so that they could test it's performance over HDMI with my H57.

Wonder of wonders, it wouldn't work for them either so they replaced the main board on the projector and after that...VOILA!! The got the HD-A1 player to sync with the H57 so this may be an issue with the HD7100 as well.

Wayne

Thanks, it's the projector because the HDA1 will work with my JVC/DLIA rptv. I know what's happening. The minute the player reads DVD-HD and play numbers start to move the projector try to re-sync to 1080i and the handshake is lost. I did get to watch Underworld 2 this afternoon on the Tosh and HD7100. I used S&V tuning DVD to set black/whites and 5.1 sound. The presentation was marvelous, love them blacks. Optoma does have the HDA1 so when Wing gets back I'll tell him about the slow starts and problems with the Toshiba.

Rking401, things to try, don't have any signals going to the projector until after the bulb fires. If it doesn't start super fast wait it out. I've noticed when I wait the blue LED flash will flash once and after that the projector will fire up. No need to unplug and retry, just wait a little longer. I think when the PJ sense signals when trying to fire up it gets confused. In the manual it does say not to have signals on when starting.

rking,

I have had the Epson 550 on my short list for some time now. Your first and second impressions are not making me feel any better. I have considered this projector from the first that I have read about it, but actual user in the field results are not sounding very promising and I'm thinking 550 again. I like you do not want to cross my fingers every time I flip the switch. I really can't go over $3,000 that is why I was so hopeful with this PJ because the street was much less than the MSRP. I was really hoping for a great bang for the buck kind of thing, but alas I thinks I'll still wait and see what others have to say and see if it gets any better.

Regards,

RTROSE

Rking401, things to try, don't have any signals going to the projector until after the bulb fires. If it doesn't start super fast wait it out. I've noticed when I wait the blue LED flash will flash once and after that the projector will fire up. No need to unplug and retry, just wait a little longer. I think when the PJ sense signals when trying to fire up it gets confused. In the manual it does say not to have signals on when starting.
Thanks for the advice. I will give it one more chance (after alerting Jason of the problem) and see if firing it up first makes a difference (it shouldn't with a proper design). It is a slow starter, but this wasn't a case of slow starting (either time). When I hit the power button the blue light went off as normal, but the bulb never fired and the projector wouldn't respond to any remote control input. It was unresponsive until I unplugged and replugged.

I was having the EXACT same problem with my 7100. Almost like clockwork, every other startup, the blue light would go out, but no fans/bulb, and input selection did nothing. Unplug/re-plug would always solve. Until the last time when it went BOOM.

If anyone is using a HD7100 with a HTPC, can you tell me if it syncs over DVI and / or VGA using a resolution of 1366x768 (or 1360x768 or 1368x768 if your video card doesn't support 1366).

Thanks!

No it doesn't do 1360x768 over DVI, 720p is ok.

I just got my HD-A1 as well and it is a no go with the HDMI and the HD-7100. I can’t even get a picture. But the component output works great at full 1080i. I also tried the HD-A1 out on my Samsung HDTV and the HDMI worked fine and I have upgraded the firmware but still no go with the 7100.

Will someone please tell me just how to post a message? I want to record a DVD from my DISH network DVD-R. to my Tru-Tech 1650. I can play the 1650, but cannot record from dvd to dvd.
Cannot figure how to post messages here.

WOW! This thread has been VERY QUIET compared to the other Optoma threads. Come on owners speak up and speak out!

Any other first impressions or concerns/problems. Those not having problems tells us. I want to hear all about this projector.

Regards,

RTROSE

I just got my HD-A1 as well and it is a no go with the HDMI and the HD-7100. I can’t even get a picture. But the component output works great at full 1080i. I also tried the HD-A1 out on my Samsung HDTV and the HDMI worked fine and I have upgraded the firmware but still no go with the 7100.

I talked to a tech on Friday and he said they have a few HDA1's that they test with their projectors and found the HDA1's to be quirky :)

Quirky alright, they asked how short of a cable? 15'/try shorter. Ok I tried a 6' HDMI/DVI cable and get the player to work every other time. I really can't live with using a 6' cable and still occasional HDMI errors. I'll talk to the Engineering Mgr. today since he's just back from Infocomm. I'll see what he says about using their HDA1's with the HD7100.
Hold off right now on picking up an HDA1 to use with this projector.

Guitarman, do you know if there are problems with any other HDMI sources (not too sure what else is available with HDMI, is the HD-A1 the only HDMI source out right now?)

I saw this on projectorcentral:

"Many have asked about the review of the Optoma HD7100. The first unit we received was a preproduction unit that produced a terrific picture, but had some trouble recognizing and synching on certain DVI source signals. This week we received a second production sample, and we do not see the problems on it that we were having with the original unit. So we will get that review posted next week."

Even though this says DVI I'm pretty sure he mentioned HDCP on a previous post.

I'm wondering whether currently shipping units have an issue or not. Would Optoma know?

I would also like to know if any of the new production units now shipping have the same issue with not wanting to come on every time unless you fiddle with it.

I think that guitarman said that fire up the projector and then send a signal not vice a versa.

Why would this be the case? Sorry if this is a stupid question, but in reality should it make a hill of beans difference? You should flip the switch and it should come on with out crossing your fingers.

guitarman, have you had any more problems with this issue? Anybody else?

I would really like to get this projector it meets my budget (barely) and I think if some of the initial glitches are worked out, could be a very good bang for the buck projector.

Regards,

RTROSE

I would also like to know if any of the new production units now shipping have the same issue with not wanting to come on every time unless you fiddle with it.

I think that guitarman said that fire up the projector and then send a signal not vice a versa.
THAT is not a viable option for a product such as this. The unit should fire up no matter the external situation. If I am switching from listening to cd's (projector off) to watching satellite (projector on) I should NOT have to shut everything down first.


Why would this be the case? Sorry if this is a stupid question, but in reality should it make a hill of beans difference? You should flip the switch and it should come on with out crossing your fingers.

guitarman, have you had any more problems with this issue? Anybody else?

I would really like to get this projector it meets my budget (barely) and I think if some of the initial glitches are worked out, could be a very good bang for the buck projector.

Regards,

RTROSEI HAVE had the problem with my second unit. It is going back as soon as I figure out what to replace it with. I haven't found the replacement yet. Who knows, maybe I will give Optoma a third strike before giving up. At this point I don't trust them.

I agree on the bang for the buck which is why I haven't found an option.

rking,

I still have the Epson 550 and the 7100 on my short list, but issues that you are having as well as others scare me in regards to this projector. The Epson (Z4 or 900 for that matter) fit my projection needs best, but I was going to make it work due to the high marks that this projector scores in the picture department.

I don't know if I could give it three strikes. I think that if you plunk down $ XXXX.XX dollars you should get a product that works no matter what.

I know that in the world of FP that there are compromises. however I don't think that one of the compromises one should make is whether or not the projector comes on at all fiddling or no fiddling.

Regards,

RTROSE

This morning I had no bulb fire with everything turned off. So, cancel the thought that sources have to be turned on last. On the second attempt it fired with sources turned on.

Guitarman, do you know if there are problems with any other HDMI sources (not too sure what else is available with HDMI, is the HD-A1 the only HDMI source out right now?)

I saw this on projectorcentral:

"Many have asked about the review of the Optoma HD7100. The first unit we received was a preproduction unit that produced a terrific picture, but had some trouble recognizing and synching on certain DVI source signals. This week we received a second production sample, and we do not see the problems on it that we were having with the original unit. So we will get that review posted next week."

Even though this says DVI I'm pretty sure he mentioned HDCP on a previous post.

I'm wondering whether currently shipping units have an issue or not. Would Optoma know?

No HDMI problem it's just the HDA1. I run a Pany S97 with HDMI and I'm testing the Optoma HD3000 which is HDMI. I can run components from my Comcast HD with the HD3000 and have scale it to 720p out of HDMI with no problem.

I was at the factory yesterday and their Engineer Mgr. is aware of the problem. He tried the HDA1 with many other Optoma models and there's no problem. Wing talked to Toshiba and they're sending him a firmware. I thought that just may be the 1.2 which mine has. He thought it might be different, we'll see.

On my HD7100 I've never pulled the plug to get it to fire up. Early on it was slow a few times and waiting or hitting the direct signal button on the remote made it fire up. In these last several weeks it has started fast every time. You know there are a number of other owners that aren't having problems and are enjoying the projector, they pm'ed me but don't post in the public forum. The projector comes with a 3year warranty so you're covered. If you have a problem all can be made well.

I'll do a review on the HD3000 with the HD7100/HD7300 soon. So far it's looking like an incredible device and a must have for the HD7100.

guitarman,

I understand what you are saying in regards to the warranty, and yes three years is a very good warranty IMO. I know that you have been beaten up around here a few times and I admire you for continuing to provide us with some very good info, but I would like to state that if I do purchase this pj I don't WANT to use the warranty. It is good insurance, but not having to use it is even better. I'm glad that my vehicle came with a 36,000 mile warranty, but I don't WANT to use it either. Good insurance, but it would be better if I wasn't bothered with HAVING to use it at all!

It seems that you have a pretty steady rapport with Optoma, are they aware of the issue? Is this issue just a few of the first pj's and now it has been worked out? You state that for the past few weeks that there has not been a problem with your pj. Can you give us any idea what the problem may be?

Lots of questions I know but your answers are greatly appricaiated.

Regards,

RTROSE

RTROSE,

In the few times I've used my 7100, I've not had any startup problems. HDMI from my Denon 2910 has worked flawlessly, too. I'll post if I do experience problems in the future.

Good luck,
Don

guitarman,

glad to hear you have the hd3000. I'm anxiously awaiting your review. what has you most impressed so far? also, do you know what the differences are between the 7100 and 7300. What I've found is 6000:1 contrast and HDMI. your comments are greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Don

"I do purchase this pj I don't WANT to use the warranty".

I know what you mean. :) better wait for more of a track record.

On the scaler box. There's a ton of adjustments and features available. Maybe the contrast enhancement boosts the CR level. It certainly can brighten up an image. Anybody that needed more black detail the scaler can fill the bill.

I sent a 480i signal from the HDA1 and noticed the Gennum chip could do the HQV motion detail test better than the Faroudja chipped players I have. The test where the race car passes the stands. There's absolutely no lag time on the frame pickup. With the Faroudja chip there's a split second of lag time. More testing needed ugh. :)

if I do purchase this pj I don't WANT to use the warranty. It is good insurance, but not having to use it is even better. I'm glad that my vehicle came with a 36,000 mile warranty, but I don't WANT to use it either. Good insurance, but it would be better if I wasn't bothered with HAVING to use it at all!


Agree with your philosophy on warranties. I have a feeling that if you purchase this projector the warranty will be something that you will use. Thankfully, AVS is sending me a second RA# so that I can return the one I now have. Still have to decide what to buy to replace it. I LOVE the picture quality, but I don't like being a beta (alpha) tester unless I am being compensated for being so.

I recently spent $8-9k for hurricane shutters for some commercial property. Just as with warranties, I hope I never have to use them.

Ugh, I'm upgrading two H77's today and the Toshiba HD player works flawlessly with both of them. I don't have to worry about the HDMI handshake no matter how I try to foul it up. PJ/display off, HD player on first nothing fouls up the connection. Plus I can use my long HDMI cables. Still no easy go with the HD7100.

For anybody having trouble with the HDMI handshake and the HDA1. You don't have to unplug it or turn it off. What works best for me is to open the tray door and while it's open pull the HDMI cable out of the player and then replace it, no waiting needed. Then close the tray. I have it working right now on the first re-try with the procedure above. Also using a 35' HDMI cable and the picture is clean with no sparklies. I hope the engineers at Optoma can figure out the problem or work with Toshiba on the problem, because the player displays stellar images for HD and SD DVD's.

I wanna be able to use this puppy with the HD7100. :(

For HD7100 owners I didn't get around to tuning the grayscale for the Toshiba with colorfacts but do have the correct black and white settings from using the Accupel at RGB DVI-V/1080i

Brightness -2
Contrast 15
Sharpness / Sharpest
Gamma 2.2
Color Temp 6500k
(gray patterns look excellent with these settings)

Do not use the Toshiba's Enhanced black level, stick with normal video level. Which matches up well with the Accupels reference DVI-V/1080i (video reference black level).

A quick ? on the 7100 and the HDa1...

If you put a processor in the chain between the 7100 and HDa1 will the proper handshake occur? That is HDa1 to iScan VPwhatever to Optoma 7100 = a picture...

Also, currently trying to decide between the 7100 and the Benq 8270....any thoughts?

Thanks,
-Alex-

projector central has the review up (7100) so guitarman is justified,lol

Tom have you ever mentioned your preference between this and the H79?

I e-mailed projectorcentral re the color accuracy and Evan said that it wasn’t an issue on their unit. When also asked re his preference compared to the Samsung 710, he thinks the Sammy is better in color precision but the HD7100 is more superior in contrast and saturation. While other may have a preference for the more precise color and be willing to sacrifice contrast and saturation to get it, his personal preference is the HD7100 in terms of overall image quality.

Anybody that needed more black detail the scaler can fill the bill.

Is this accomplished via gamma adjustments with the external scaler? This would definitely be a good feature.

Ugh, I'm upgrading two H77's today and the Toshiba HD player works flawlessly with both of them. I don't have to worry about the HDMI handshake no matter how I try to foul it up.

The HD-A1 has always worked perfectly with my H77 from day 1.

I e-mailed projectorcentral re the color accuracy and Evan said that it wasn’t an issue on their unit. When also asked re his preference compared to the Samsung 710, he thinks the Sammy is better in color precision but the HD7100 is more superior in contrast and saturation. While other may have a preference for the more precise color and be willing to sacrifice contrast and saturation to get it, his personal preference is the HD7100 in terms of overall image quality.

This is a pretty good endorsement for the 7100. I haven't had time to read Evan's review yet, did he comment on shadow detail at all?

Re Processor and HDA1, It can but I'm still testing things. Didn't work thru HDMI but component at 480i to the scaler worked. I had the scaler output 1080i thru it's HDMI out. There has to be a better way. Plus I'm still testing how the scaler/pj can handle longer cables. I've been having trouble with some of my cheaper 25' cables. Still have more to do.

Yes the scalers gamma control is awesome and can work great with the 7100.

I'l have to read PC review of the HD7100, I bet he mentioned the Optic's are special. If he didn't notice the clarity this lens does he missed a major plus the projector has.

Just finished reading Evan Powell's review of the 7100, and it is interesting to note that he thinks shadow detail on the 7100 is superior to the H79 in a side by side comparison, although others have criticized the 7100 in this regard.

He also mentions the high quality of the lens system used by the 7100, so it looks like you nailed that one Tom.

Also, interesting to note that there is no mention of screen door in his review. If he noticed it at all, he must not have been bothered by it. So overall Tom, it seems like your review of the 7100 in your original thread may have been right on the money. :)

It's too bad about the problems that the 7100 has with the Toshiba HD-A1. This is a real deal breaker for me until they get this resolved, since I sold my Denon 2910 and replaced it with the Toshiba.

I do find it interesting though that the 7100 did not receive the "HIGHLY RATED" endorsement from PC.

I does look as though Tom/guitarman did "git it right" with his review. There is also a mention about the noise level of this projector, but it did not seem to be an issue in the review as some around here have made it to be.

The sync issues were also addressed briefly but no mention the other startup issue that is being seen. I guess that if you don't experience it, you can't report it.

I just hope the bugs get worked out and I can find a way around this projectors mounting requirements for my installation situation.

Regards,

RTROSE

I am in the process of substituting out a SE 50HD (DLP Darkchip 2+) for a client and replacing it with this puppy. In looking for an inexpensive solution with a short throw distance comparable to the SE 50HD there just aren't many products available. So, when I ran across this one I naturally wanted to get something that throws a quality image. Not too many people have had a chance to review this projector and there wasn't much insight on the web so I took the chance and proceeded with it as the replacement. After receiving it and setting it up to see if my selection was a correct one I offer these insights to this unit.

1. It is no lie that the image out of the box is outstanding. First, what stands out is the color saturation. Simply they are vibrant and realistic. Second, the clarity of the image (480p from the source) is sharp and crisp. There is no need to turn the sharpness up (adding unwanted edge enhancement) to improve the image. In fact, the Normal setting seems ideal. Third, no screen door effect or Moire. The screen I set it up on was a high contrast gray, perforated, 106" diagonal.

2. Turning the Bright mode off puts the projector in the low brightness with the lower fan speed. Turning the Bright mode on puts it into high brightness and a louder fan speed. With bright mode off the image has plenty of punch to it, even with a small amount of light on. Like low accent lighting that does not interfere with the light path of the projector. The fan speed at this level is no problem whatsoever. I have not viewed it for any length of time with the bright mode on to really see if the fan noise is annoying. Although as soon as you go from bright mode off to on you notice the fan pick up speed immediately.

3. One problem I did notice was some mosquito noise mostly on video based material that has dark action scenes or fields of solid color like blue skies. I think this is why the 7300 was created. The 7300 appears to be the exact same projector with the addition of a scaler. This projector even has the model name 7300. The scaler provided seems to be one that is ideal for removing mosquito noise.

These are just a few observations fresh out of the box in a known test environment. Setup and Calibration at the clients house must still be done. But for all intensive purposes this is a step up from the SE 50HD for a lot less money. DLP projector price/performance just took a huge leap with this projector.

One thing to note about the short throw lens is that long lengths of cable become unncessary, if the equipment is located up front (as many DIY do it). The shorter length cables provide a less chance of degrading the image.

David, did you see any RBE with the slower color wheel? Also does anyone know if the engine is sealed on this unit?

Thanks,
-Alex-

David, did you see any RBE with the slower color wheel? Also does anyone know if the engine is sealed on this unit?

Thanks,
-Alex-
No, I did not see any RBE with this projector. Although, to tell you the truth I have only seen RBE in the first generation Sharp DLPs when they came out several years ago. The faster, multi-subdivided color wheels have done wonders for mitigating this effect for me and my clients. I have not looked under the cover to see if it has a sealed light path internal to the projector. That is a good point for dust collection. Earlier projectors (especially the SE 50HD) required frequent cleaning of the the filters. In looking over the documentation, cleaning the filters is not an issue, the documentation indicates that the projectors filters can be cleaned in place while ceiling mounted. This is pretty big issue for DIYers, making it a simpler DIY task rather than paying for the service.

Just received my HD7100 today and my HT is now nearly complete. I'm frustrated because all my toys (projector, receiver, xbox 360...) came within 1 day of each other so I haven't had time to set everything up yet. My problem is that Directv is coming tomorrow to hook up my HD service and they need for me to actually have an HD capable display working for them. I temporarily hooked up my HD7100 to the xbox 360, placed the PJ on a snack tray on my riser and played LOTR:Return of The King for a few scenes to test it out (no sound yet :( ). Now granted, I'm projecting onto 4x8 white panneling which is kind of glossy from Lowes but I was blown away by the picture. This is my first PJ so I don't have the frame of refrence that some of you do but I can say that so far, I'm very impressed. More reviews will follow after I'm fully set up.

I have one question. I've looked through the manual and some posts here but want to be absolutely certain of my next step. I'm planning on a 106" screen from Carada. My ceiling which is a drop ceiling is 86" off the ground. There is a 3" vailance that runs along the top of my screen wall. That leaves me with 83" from the top of the screen to the floor and I would like to keep the screen as high as possible. The Carada Criterion screens have a 3.5" frame around them so the actual screen material would start 79.5" off the floor or 6.5" off the ceiling. I should be receiving my Chief RPA-U mount tomorrow and want to know the height which I should mount the PJ. I need to run the mounting pipe through the drop ceiling and would like the PJ mounted as tight to the ceiling as possible but don't want to sacrifice having to angle the PJ or diminish PQ in anyway. With the offset capabilities in this PJ how far down off the ceiling should the center of my lense be? If the PJ is flush w/ the ceilng, the center of the lense would be 3 3/8" from the ceiling. Would this work? Do I have flexibilitiy to lower the PJ or does it need to be lower or higher, although I don't know if I can do higher. I'm a bit confused on how the math from the owners manual plays out in the real world.

I have one question. I've looked through the manual and some posts here but want to be absolutely certain of my next step. I'm planning on a 106" screen from Carada. My ceiling which is a drop ceiling is 86" off the ground. There is a 3" vailance that runs along the top of my screen wall. That leaves me with 83" from the top of the screen to the floor and I would like to keep the screen as high as possible. The Carada Criterion screens have a 3.5" frame around them so the actual screen material would start 79.5" off the floor or 6.5" off the ceiling. I should be receiving my Chief RPA-U mount tomorrow and want to know the height which I should mount the PJ. I need to run the mounting pipe through the drop ceiling and would like the PJ mounted as tight to the ceiling as possible but don't want to sacrifice having to angle the PJ or diminish PQ in anyway. With the offset capabilities in this PJ how far down off the ceiling should the center of my lense be? If the PJ is flush w/ the ceilng, the center of the lense would be 3 3/8" from the ceiling. Would this work? Do I have flexibilitiy to lower the PJ or does it need to be lower or higher, although I don't know if I can do higher. I'm a bit confused on how the math from the owners manual plays out in the real world.

Go with the projector flush to the drop cieling and you should be all right. with the manual lens shift on 106" diagonal screen you have 4.4" to play with. So 6 1/2 - 3 3/8 gives you a lens shift of 3 1/8. You are within the 4.4" lens shift for a 106" screen. The manual states there is a +- 3% on the 4.4". So in this scenario by mounting the projector upside down flush with the drop cieling you have to use the lens shift to adjust the image down to the top of the screen.

I'm fairly new to this stuff so bear with me.

I will be putting a dedicated home theater in my new house which will be finished this fall. The HD7100 really peaked my interest as the reviews state an unmatched picture quality for the price range.

Now all the problems that this projecter has seem to be directly linked to the introduction of a scalar or DVI to HDMI switch correct? I have a Denon 2910, upconverts to 720p and 1080i, that will move from my family room to the HT when I move, that has both DVI and HDMI outs. If I go DVI direct from the player to the projector will there be a problem? (This room will be for movies and nothing else) Do I need a scalar if my DVD player does it for me?

Also why is converting DVI to HDMI so common? I've read that the only difference is that HDMI carries audio as well which shouldn't matter if you're going to a projector. Also doesn't DVI sustain the signal over a greater length of cable than HDMI?

Heney

You should not have any issues with the Denon 2910 connected to the optoma. The problems that Guitarman talks about in previous posts are strictly related to the Toshiba HD DVD player.

Good to hear, I've still got a ways before I make a final decision, but that recent article on projectorcentral sold me. I was just about to consider forking out the extra for the h79, but to hear that the hd7100 looks as good, if not better than the h79, for a fraction of the price in music to my ears.

Anyone know how this projector would work as Constant Height? Would I need a scalar for the squeeze?

Title pretty much says it all -- I am on 6100 feet elevation and I know that HD7100 is not altitude rated (at least no mention of it in the manual) -- PJ will be used in dedicated HT room in the basement where the temp is never higher than 70 F -- will that make a difference since temperature is pretty low to start with ?

Thanks, Davie.

Anyone know how this projector would work as Constant Height?

Due to the short throw, the 7100 is not a good candidate for constant height.

Eclipse

I am in Denver also and I use an H77 in a basement HT with no problems. I would think the 7100 would be fine also.

Anyone know how this projector would work as Constant Height? Would I need a scalar for the squeeze?

phisch got right to the point. Short throw PJs suffer notable pincushioning of the image. Depending on the anamorphic lens you may also suffer unwanted vignetting. The only way I know to combat these issues is to collapse the image inside a border, which is just the opposite direction you want to go. Many PJs support this option, so no scaler is required.

Hmmm.... well the constant height issue may turn problematic. I'm not 100% sold on them yet, as a lot of my collection is old animated flicks in 1.33:1. I love the look of it, and agree that 2.35:1 should be the largest format, but this projectors reviews are tough to beat for the money.

How long of a throw would you need to get rid of all that "pincushioning"?

great thread on the hd7100 and the scaler that we all will probably be buying in a month...;)

http://aving.hankooki.com/news/default.asp?mode=read&c_code=02_05&c_num=16105&BTE_num=

Eclipse

I am in Denver also and I use an H77 in a basement HT with no problems. I would think the 7100 would be fine also.

phisch,

There are lots of PJs that work fine on elevation -- I use Sharp Z2000 and have no problems -- I am afraid that one can't make a conclusion on how well HD7100 works on elevation based on a completely different PJ, even if it comes from the same manufacturer.

Davie.

There is a $300 rebate on the 7100 until 6/30!
What to do?!?!

:)

Like I have mentioned, I have given up on this one and am ordering either the Mitsubishi WD2000U or the BenQ 8720. I will be ordering tomorrow. After two failed 7100 units I am looking elsewhere. It's really a shame because I loved the picture quality. I hope which ever one I end up with compares closely. I can't help but think that they are doing the rebate because word is out on the reliability and problems. :(

Like I have mentioned, I have given up on this one and am ordering either the Mitsubishi WD2000U or the BenQ 8720. I will be ordering tomorrow. After two failed 7100 units I am looking elsewhere. It's really a shame because I loved the picture quality. I hope which ever one I end up with compares closely. I can't help but think that they are doing the rebate because word is out on the reliability and problems. :(

I am in the same boat...got a 7100 and love the picture....BUT I notice a variance between the left and right side screen brightness, had failure (twice so far) for ignition of the lamp on power up (had to pull the cord to correct), and I have seen some rainbows that I normally don't see with my current benq 8700. I have also noticed a weird flickering in a DVI connection to my HTPC which may or may not be a problem with the projector (I haven't noticed it with my 8700+ so I suspect the PJ).

It is really too bad that this projector has these problems. When the projector is working correctly...especially with an HD signal, the view is stunning. Dark blacks, vibrant color, sharp as a tack, and very bright (even in low mode on a 118" screen). It exceeds the darkchip 2, 8700+ in picture quality by a good third to a half (IMHO).

Why can't companies like Optoma and Samsung (with the 710) fix these deal killers? This is such a good projector when it is working correctly. Is there a curse with the 710x model #'s?

I am considering a Benq 8720. My other benq has been super reliable and I hear great things about this model.

-Alex-

I can't help but think that they are doing the rebate because word is out on the reliability and problems. :(
Hmmm, interesting. I have not heard word out there that this projector is having problems. Not much word on the thread or others of problems. Just you two. Are there others?

Hmmm, interesting. I have not heard word out there that this projector is having problems. Not much word on the thread or others of problems. Just you two. Are there others?

You are correct that two bad experiences don't necessarily indicate a endemic fault in the projector model. I could have gotten a lemon.

I would be very interested in hearing more opinions on the 7100. The price for the image is unbeliveable. I would love it if the build quality and reliability is of the same caliber.

Since it is generally agreed that the image quality is excellent, lets hear from some owners on the lamp strike, reliability and other features of the projector.

-Alex-

Actually, I have had two of two units fail on me, so, between the two of us we have three failures. I agree on the picture quality. I hate to let it go, but I want something reliable.

I've been watching mine with no problems, heading up to the 400hr level. Deadwood tonight, very CRT like. :)

I am a little unnerved to read about the reliability problems given that I'm wondering about the HD7100 after having been scared off by the problems so many have reported with the Samsung SP-H710AE.

Has anyone measured the accuracy of the HD7100's primaries and secondaries, using ColorFacts or equivalent? One of the aspects of the Samsung 710 that had interested me was its automated service menu calibration procedure. And on my NEC HT1000 I use the "Color Correction" adjustments to get each of RGBCYM to be as close to their ideal coordinates as I can manage (I've found this most especially helpful for yellow with the HT1000). I don't see any adjustments like this in the HD7100's online manual (although I haven't read anything about its service menu?). So, I'm wondering if anyone has measured how accurate the HD7100's RGBCYM are out of the box (or rather after its grayscale has been optimized).

-- Peter

Guitarman, any idea why they are doing the rebate since this PJ is already way cheaper than the competition or even the HD78 or 79?
And what will happen after 6/30? Price drop? Free lamp or another rebate?

:) d

I assume that this will look considerably better than the IN76, yes?

Guitarman, any idea why they are doing the rebate since this PJ is already way cheaper than the competition or even the HD78 or 79?

I've never seen any numbers, but I suspect that this projector does not sell very well for Optoma - hence the rebates and continued price reductions. Not nearly as many people talk about this projector as they did about the H77-79 pj's.

I've never seen any numbers, but I suspect that this projector does not sell very well for Optoma - hence the rebates and continued price reductions. Not nearly as many people talk about this projector as they did about the H77-79 pj's.
Which is odd since this is clearly a better projector. Are the other lower cost DLPs (IN76, HD72,) selling well? Could slower sales be indicating that there is saturation in the projector market?

Rking401 could you be having power problems that are causing the lamps to misfire? What projector did you have in there originally?

This was an upgrade from the InFocus X1 which I never had a problem with. There was someone else who had a similar problem who posted in a thread that was deleted a while back. I wish that person would show up and post here also.

Guitarman, any idea why they are doing the rebate since this PJ is already way cheaper than the competition or even the HD78 or 79?
And what will happen after 6/30? Price drop? Free lamp or another rebate?

:) d

I assume that this will look considerably better than the IN76, yes?


Actually the free bulb promo passed by already and the rebate has just started. The free bulb was probably a better deal. My guess is the bulb is expensive, it comes from Germany not Phillips this time. Anyway at least there's a $300 cash rebate, started to speed up sales.

The HD7100 looks extremely good next to the HD72 HD2+ chip, isn't that model similar to the IN76? I was able to compare these many times. Twice the contrast, twice the black level, way better optics clarity. The 7100 is a DC3 and a darn good one at that. I was able to test out a much higher CR on the HD7100 than the HD72 (2000.1), H77 (2300.1), H79 (2900.1), HD7100 (4300.1).

The 4300.1 measurement is the highest CR any projector ever tested at in my home. The CR, blacks and this Lens I keep talking about is the reason I asked to buy the projector for myself. The 30day trial was running out and after comparing it to what I had (HT1000 & HD72) I just didn't want to go back down. :)

I'm hoping this 720p machine can keep me from spending six or seven thousand on a 1080p machine.

As far as track record, I bet we can do some searching on the HD2 model this platform used over in Europe. Maybe we can find out how well the machine performed reliability wise. For sure the bulb should be better.

Thought you would like to know. I just tested the light output at 370hrs. I got 18.00ftc in bright mode and 14.50ftc in econo. Pretty sure when it was new I got 18.50ftc in bright mode so the bulb is holding up very good.

I wonder how much more performance you'd be getting from a HD7300 when this HD7100 already surpasses the H79.

But then, for a couple of thousands more you can own either a HD81 or any other 1080p in competition.

I'm still deciding wether to spend an under 2.5K pj upgrade soon or just wait towards the end of the year for a 6K 1080p.

Thought you would like to know. I just tested the light output at 370hrs. I got 18.00ftc in bright mode and 14.50ftc in econo. Pretty sure when it was new I got 18.50ftc in bright mode so the bulb is holding up very good.

Tom, isn't 1 ftc = 1 ftL for a 1.0 gain screen, or is there a factor I'm leaving out? If not, this seems like a pretty dim pic.

Thanks for the info. Tom.
What to do?!?!?
(well, until someone buys my old PJ, I can't do squat!)

:)

Tom, isn't 1 ftc = 1 ftL for a 1.0 gain screen, or is there a factor I'm leaving out? If not, this seems like a pretty dim pic.

My screen a 92"X52" 106" diag.
18.50ftc X 33.222221 (33.222221 is my screens sqft) = 615.6 lumens

This is wierd I can't get the HDA1 not to work with the HD7100 and Scaler combo. Everything I throw at it today works. That's the HDA1's HDMI out to the Scaler by a 6' HDMI cable, the player's set at 1080i, 1080i is converted to 720p and sent to the PJ via 25' HDMI cable w/HDMI to DVI adaptor. Trying to figure what changed.

1. I start up the projector.
2. I power up the Gennum scaler
3. I power up the Tosh HDA1
No problems at all today, but can it last. :)

My screen a 92"X52" 106" diag.
18.50ftc X 33.222221 (33.222221 is my screens sqft) = 615.6 lumens

Thanks, Tom. So with a 119" Highpower I calculate 616 Lumens x 2.8 (gain)/42 ft^2 = 41 ftL, or 32ftL in low power mode. Should be nice and bright!

You'll have ft-lamberts to spare.

I am a little unnerved to read about the reliability problems given that I'm wondering about the HD7100 after having been scared off by the problems so many have reported with the Samsung SP-H710AE.

Has anyone measured the accuracy of the HD7100's primaries and secondaries, using ColorFacts or equivalent? One of the aspects of the Samsung 710 that had interested me was its automated service menu calibration procedure. And on my NEC HT1000 I use the "Color Correction" adjustments to get each of RGBCYM to be as close to their ideal coordinates as I can manage (I've found this most especially helpful for yellow with the HT1000). I don't see any adjustments like this in the HD7100's online manual (although I haven't read anything about its service menu?). So, I'm wondering if anyone has measured how accurate the HD7100's RGBCYM are out of the box (or rather after its grayscale has been optimized).

-- Peter

Ok the scaler does have control over RGBCYM. In the Advanced menu's under Color Vividness User there's 15 steps of control over RGBCYM, a color like Magenta can be controled in 15 steps under Saturation and Hue, each with 15 steps.

This thread REALLY needs to be moved to the >$3500 forum now as the MSRP has dropped to $3499 and it's streeting for under $3K.

This thread REALLY needs to be moved to the >$3500 forum now as the MSRP has dropped to $3499 and it's streeting for under $3K.

I think you really mean <$3500. :)

Whoops! Yes. duh

Finally good news, I posted earlier that the HD-A1 would not work with the Optoma HD7100, no matter what I did I could not get the two to work together with the HDMI hookup, not knowing whether it was the Toshiba or the Optoma I bought a Samsung Blu-Ray player tonight and it worked perfect with the Optoma the first time without any problems. So Blu-Ray works, HD-DVD don’t.

Ok the scaler does have control over RGBCYM. In the Advanced menu's under Color Vividness User there's 15 steps of control over RGBCYM, a color like Magenta can be controled in 15 steps under Saturation and Hue, each with 15 steps.

Interesting-- but you know of no such controls on the HD7100 itself? (I would be using a different scaler, DVDO VP30.) And if the scaler->projector link is 8-bit RGB, I would think that I would rather make such corrections on the projector side.

So have you happened to measure the accuracy of the HD7100's native RGBCYM colors with ColorFacts (compared to the SMPTE-C standard)?

-- Peter

Ok the scaler does have control over RGBCYM. In the Advanced menu's under Color Vividness User there's 15 steps of control over RGBCYM, a color like Magenta can be controled in 15 steps under Saturation and Hue, each with 15 steps. Have you had a chance to play around with this any? If it works as advertised, this promises virtually perfect color decoding for any display the scaler is feeding. Sounds nice.

There are a lot of projectors that have their MSRP dropped (in fact it happens to most projectors) but I haven't seen a lot of threads moved to the other forum. Any particular reason why these threads REALLY need to be moved?

Haven't tried the item yet. Here's some views of the menu system.

http://www.cigarbest.com/sales/hd3000menu1.jpg
http://www.cigarbest.com/sales/hd3000menu2.jpg
http://www.cigarbest.com/sales/hd3000menu3.jpg
http://www.cigarbest.com/sales/hd3000menu4.jpg

http://www.cigarbest.com/sales/hd3000.jpg
http://www.cigarbest.com/sales/hd3000remote.jpg

There are a lot of projectors that have their MSRP dropped (in fact it happens to most projectors) but I haven't seen a lot of threads moved to the other forum. Any particular reason why these threads REALLY need to be moved?

We typically move threads up to this forum when they jump out of our category, so I would expect the same to happen. Saves multiple threads discussing the exact same thing. Typically we only count the MSRP of when the projector premiers when sorting it.

We typically move threads up to this forum when they jump out of our category, so I would expect the same to happen. Saves multiple threads discussing the exact same thing. Typically we only count the MSRP of when the projector premiers when sorting it.

That's what I though, that the initial MSRP is considered, which is why I was surprised that several people were asking for thread moves.

Regarding the 7100, I have a question:
Can any owners tell me if it will sync a 48hz signal (at 720p) over VGA or DVI? How about 50hz?

Thanks!

The thread should be moved IMHO because people who aren't willing to even look at any PJs in this thread due to the $3500 and up price won't see it.

:)

Guitarman, Obviously the processor will really clean up the image but do you find that the HD3000 brings out more shadow detail in this projector that wasn't there before?

Is the 7100 + processor identical to the 7300?

I've just purchased an HD7100, and I love the picture. But I've been having some synching problems too--plus another problem I wondered about: There's a streak of light in the lower left corner of the screen, as if the pj is reflecting extra light there--it spills outside the image, but it's on the image too. It comes from the lens--not ambient light or light spillage from the unit--it's an extra streak of light. It's invisible during bright scenes, but it pops out in dark scenes and is quite visible when I project no input.

Am I being too fussy, and will all units have some quirk like this, or is this unusual?

Thanks!
--johnmn

Can you post a pic johnmn?

I don't think that a NEW projector costing several thousand dollars should have ANY gross problems such as:

lamp failure or ignition problems
sync problems for common sources and sync rates
lens problems of any kind
unusual noise


Any of these I would consider defects and send the projector back for either replacement or refund.

-Alex-

Guitarman, Obviously the processor will really clean up the image but do you find that the HD3000 brings out more shadow detail in this projector that wasn't there before?

There's much more control to open up images with the scaler which is not just a deinterlacer scaler a large part of it is video related. I didn't have a hard time getting a 2.2gamma out of the HD7100 but the scaler can open up shadow detail much more effectively. Plus the B&W Extension feature can turn the image light up very high. It can create much more pop, great for daytime viewing. The manual claims B&W Extension can stretch the black and white levels to automatically increase the contrast of the input image.

Here's a look at an image with BW extension plus some Edge ehancement. Took this last night from a House re-run (Fox)
http://www.cigarbest.com/sales/hd3000bwextension1.jpg

Who is the OEM for the Optoma HD3000 video processor? What chip set does it use?

It's made by Optoma in Taiwan, the deinterlacing chip is made by the Gennum Corp.
http://www.cigarbest.com/sales/hd3000box1.jpg
http://www.cigarbest.com/sales/hd3000box2.jpg
http://www.gennum.com/ip/index.html

Tons of those boxes are lining up at the Optoma Factory launch s/b very soon.

Tom

Is this the same processor that is going to be used with the HD81?

Tom:

Can the scaler output 1080p/48hz, 720p/48hz, 480p/48hz? Will the 7100 sync at 48hz?

Has anyone compared this directly to a Panasonic 900? Is it worth the upgrade in your opinion? I'm on the fence right now wanting to upgrade my 900 to a better PJ that can output a 140" 16:9 1.0 gain screen in a dedicated space - would the 7100 suit me?
Curious.
Thanks
Calvin

So what's the final word on pairing the HD7100 with the Toshiba HD-A1. Is it workable?

guitarman,

quick question have you noticed any horizontal line artifacts on the top of your image?

The HD7100 would be a *huge* upgrade from the Panny 900, even more so if you also got the external scaler.

There's white static lines at the top of some TV shows and Fox digital shows. The scaler can do away with any white lines (masking feature) I asked for a firmware to let the projector have a small amount of overscan for a similar result.

I did a review in the Video Processor area that covers the output resolutions. It covers most of them and at different Hz levels. This is the same scaler box that will comes with the HD81.

I have the Toshiba HDA1 and with the Scaler box it works perfectly. I had trouble with HDMI 1 error when going straight to the projector. Wing says the scaler box has current state of the art HDMI goodies which make holding receiving HDMI/HDCP signals better. If you have the HD7100 I would consider the HD3000 as a worthy upgrade, price isn't too bad.

It will be interesting to see the MAP price on the HD7300 vs the HD7100 & scaler box.

Well, Jason is sending me my THIRD projector. Hopefully, the third time is the charm. I really can't go with anything else because of the short throw. I have cables and electrical outlets in the ceiling for this projector and don't want to try to fill them and cut more holes back further (although I have the room to do so). I eagerly await the arrival as I am tiring of my 19" television from a viewing distance of 20'. The binoculars just don't cut it.

It will be interesting to see the MAP price on the HD7300 vs the HD7100 & scaler box.
It appears that the only difference between the HD7300 and the HD7100 is that the HD7300 comes with the HD3000 scaler. So the difference in price should just be the cost of the HD3000 and if Optoma gives a discount for the HD7300 bundle vs buying the HD7100 and HD3000 separately.

The HD7100 would be a *huge* upgrade from the Panny 900, even more so if you also got the external scaler.


So how much will the external scalar (HD3000) cost?

Another newbie question, since I have an upscaling DVD player (Denon 2910) would the extra scaler do me any good?

The HD3000 mainly can cover many devices and make switching simple with one cable running to the projector. Plus HD deitnerlacing which is the main thing that sets this device apart.

You could live with just running a DVI/DVD player and component for TV. The scalers just a hot rod device with tons of goodies for people who want the ultimate.

With an 8' ceiling and 16' throw, is this projector out of the question for me? According to the projection calculator it looks possible with the right screen gain. My concern is the image being too low on the wall.

So how much will the external scalar (HD3000) cost? The MSRP is $2999.00, but the street price will be significantly lower.

The HD3000 mainly can cover many devices and make switching simple with one cable running to the projector. Plus HD deitnerlacing which is the main thing that sets this device apart.

You could live with just running a DVI/DVD player and component for TV. The scalers just a hot rod device with tons of goodies for people who want the ultimate.


So its basically a reciever that scales up the image, and without audio?

I would love to need it, well not for 3K, but my HT is going to be Movies only. I doubt its worth it if its just a DVD room.

So its basically a reciever that scales up the image, and without audio?

I would love to need it, well not for 3K, but my HT is going to be Movies only. I doubt its worth it if its just a DVD room.
I would not equate it with a receiver, but I kind of get your point. Even though your HT is for movies only, you are still probably going to have many different sources, aspect ratios, and resolutions, so an excellent processor can be critical to getting the best out of your system. However, I can't see why one would buy the HD7100 and a processor when they can just buy the HD7300. Not only should the latter be cheaper (since you are not paying for the built in processor in the HD7100), but there are many advantages to a two box solution (e.g. a lot less cables going to the FP, opportunities for upgrades, etc.).

I have my room completed now, finally finished it this past weekend.

The projector is ceiling mounted projecting from 10.5 feet back onto a 96" diagonal gray screen. The ceiling is about 11 feet high in the middle of the room where the the projector is mounted. I am sitting under and behind the projector which drops from the ceiling beam to about 7 feet off the floor. My seating is just over 12 feet back from the screen.

I am using an Oppo DVD player up-converting to 1080i over a 35 foot Better Cables DVI to HDMI cable, with an adapter on the projector side. I am also using Straight Wires 35 foot Silver Link component cables for gamming, standard TV and Satellite HDTV.


First the good news:

The image it produces is jaw dropping!! Better than I had hoped and better than any of my previous projectors both DLP and LCD. Image is sharp, gray scale almost perfect, with no colouring on the edges of the screen. Colour saturation is Wow and shadow detail is very good. I smile and want to cry(with joy) every time I watch it. I have so far only used Get Gray to set brightness and contrast, but that has made a big difference already. I will not use Colorfacts to calibrate it as this is not my replacement unit yet . I am still awaiting it's delivery, but it is closer to me now, and should have it any day. So I will wait for it before I invest the time to totally calibrate it and post my results.

Projector noise is not so bad in low mode at all, and not noticeable over other room noise like the air conditioner or fan. In bright mode a fair bit louder, but like I suspected I will not need to use that mode as it produces plenty of brightness in low mode on my screen. I can not wait to see what the numbers are like with Colorfacts, I think I will see 12+FL'S from this projector when calibrated!!

Now the bad news:

I have noticed when watching a movie in 1080i it will looking fine and then every once in awhile produce a twitch or flash on the screen. I have tried different movies to rule that out as a potential problem and all have done same thing. I think there is slight sync problem here as when running in 720p I do not get this same result and the image remains stable. I like 720p but the image seems to look and fit the screen better in 1080i. It may also be a copy protection encoding error, I will check out some of my burnt archive movies to test this theory out. I will be investigating the cables tonight and also looking for a possible setting in the Oppo or the projector to fix this problem. Not sure which it is or even if it may be my long run of cable, but 720p is fine so not convinced it's the cables fault. I will also call Oppo and Optoma tomorrow to get their take on it.

Tom do you have any comments on this issue or a possible solution?

Will post pictures of my new room, some screen shots and give calibrated settings and results once my new projector arrives. Can not wait as this projector is every thing I have hoped for and more so far!!

Mike .A.

why is this thread still in the 3500+ range????

why is this thread still in the 3500+ range of the forums????

ahhhhhhhhhh--- nevermind, just read the above posts.... doesnt do optoma much justice thoughhh...

guitarman,

quick question have you noticed any horizontal line artifacts on the top of your image?


This is in the broadcast and not the projectors fault. It has happened on both of my past two projectors as well.

I've just purchased an HD7100, and I love the picture. But I've been having some synching problems too--plus another problem I wondered about: There's a streak of light in the lower left corner of the screen, as if the pj is reflecting extra light there--it spills outside the image, but it's on the image too. It comes from the lens--not ambient light or light spillage from the unit--it's an extra streak of light. It's invisible during bright scenes, but it pops out in dark scenes and is quite visible when I project no input.

Am I being too fussy, and will all units have some quirk like this, or is this unusual?

Thanks!
--johnmn


I too see this, but my projector is ceiling mounted so it appears in the top right corner which I believe would be your bottom left inverted. Not sure what this is either, but can be a little distracting in dark scenes. Will add it to my list of questions to ask Optoma.

What type of sync problems are you having? What type of cable, DVD player and up-conversion method if any are you using? We should all try to resolve these issues together, for our and any future potential purchasers benefit.

Mike

"I have noticed when watching a movie in 1080i it will looking fine and then every once in awhile produce a twitch or flash on the screen. I have tried different movies to rule that out as a potential problem and all have done same thing. I think there is slight sync problem here as when running in 720p I do not get this same result and the image remains stable. I like 720p but the image seems to look and fit the screen better in 1080i. It may also be a copy protection encoding error, I will check out some of my burnt archive movies to test this theory out. I will be investigating the cables tonight and also looking for a possible setting in the Oppo or the projector to fix this problem. Not sure which it is or even if it may be my long run of cable, but 720p is fine so not convinced it's the cables fault. I will also call Oppo and Optoma tomorrow to get their take on it."

It's the Oppo and the cable length. I had problems with the Oppo and 1080i with different projectors. The Oppo wasn't alone add the Bravo D2 also. To fix the dropouts and sparklies I use a shorter location and went to 15' digital cables. The Toshiba HDA1 was trouble at first even with a 6' cable but the scaler fixed it even using a 25' cable.

If we've learned anything, cables and cable lengths devices and receivers in the digital age can give you allot of signal level problems. When I went to the close up route I thought all my problems were solved, until the Toshiba. If I don't buy the Scaler I'll be dumping the HDA1. The Engineer's looking at the troubles with the HDA1 going direct to the HD7100 maybe he can find a fix.

I'm glad a few more of you are getting a good look at the HD7100. It's really something to look at. I wanted to own this thing immediately, figured I could hold off on 1080p with a image this good. The sharpness the lens adds for me could make up for the lost resolution, at least that's what I tell myself. ;)

I talked with both reps from Oppo and Optoma yesterday and they say it could be the cable but it might also be that the Optoma does not like 1080i from the source and is having trouble syncing with any source in 1080i. They both suggested that using 720p might yield better results for me since it is the native resolution of the panel on the projector. They both also suggested that there might even be advantages to using 720p over 1080i, such as increased color saturation, contrast and increased smoothness or fluidity to the image.

So I tested this out last night when I got home from work. There does appear to be a bit better color saturation without a real noticeable loss in sharpness. The 720p setting looks very fine and might even be a slight bit better than 1080i on this projector or DVD player and projector combination. Of course there are no more flashes or twitches in the picture. I also tried 1080i and 720p from my HDTV Bell receiver over 35 foot component cords and the same glitches and sync problems happens here in 1080i but not 720p. It should not loss signal with high quality 35 foot component cords in 720p or 1080i at all period!! So this rules out both the DVI cable and the Oppo and puts the blame squarely on Optoma's shoulders. It seems that it does not like to deinterlace an interlaced signal in 1080i and prefers a progressive scan image in 720p for its scaling.

So why offer and suggest 1080i in this projector or on the DVD player? I asked Optoma and Oppo and they both said kind of the same thing for future proof and for devices that will work better in 1080i than 720p. Optoma also suggested any scaler including there new one about to be released should offer and support 1080i on this projector. So bottom line here is that using 720p on any input with both DVI and component cables is called for when using this projector feed from any source, unless your using a scaler in which case 1080i should work just fine. I can not test this as I do not have a scaler yet!! I do not think cord length is an issue either at my lengths for both the DVI or component cables, as I have good quality cables for the longer runs. However I would recomend to always try to keep cord length as short as possible and especially for 1080i or higher resolutions over DVI cords.

The light leaking around the corner may be a problem and the guy at Optoma sounded concerned and said that is not typical and if you have a unit that exhibits this problem to contact them to work out a replacement with them. He suggested that possibly trying to use the panel in 720p instead of 1080i might help but was doubtful, as this he feels may a physical problem with the DMD chip set or in the optics and light path itself.

Tom can you confirm your sync problems with the Toshiba player and the Optoma are happening in 1080i and not 720p, despite cord length? Can you test this direct feed to the projector from the DVD player and not run through the scaler? Then maybe try through the scaler and then with different sources and over component. Not sure if you tested this out yet.


All for now,

Mike

I've just purchased an HD7100, and I love the picture. But I've been having some synching problems too--plus another problem I wondered about: There's a streak of light in the lower left corner of the screen, as if the pj is reflecting extra light there--it spills outside the image, but it's on the image too. It comes from the lens--not ambient light or light spillage from the unit--it's an extra streak of light. It's invisible during bright scenes, but it pops out in dark scenes and is quite visible when I project no input.

Am I being too fussy, and will all units have some quirk like this, or is this unusual?

Thanks!
--johnmn


See my last post. Are you using DVI or component cables? What is your source? Are you trying to up-converting to 1080i or 720p? Try 720p over both types of cables and from different sources if you have them and see what happens. Let me know.

No, not any fussier than I am!!

Mike

I've noticed some comments on cable lengthes through out the thread. I'm seriously considering this PJ as an upgrade to my Panny 900 but I will need to use a 50' HDMI and a 50' component cable in my new HT set up. I have these hooked up to my 900 atm and I have no issues but I'm not sure they will also work fine with the HD7100. I'm just using monoprice cables (cheap but they work fine or have been so to this point with the panny).
I'm planning on using the HSB-600 (Sherwood Newcastle HDMI switcher) when my unit finally arrives (supposed to be in the next few weeks) with these same cables to the new PJ.

Is anyone using this PJ and 50' cable runs and if so any problems I should be aware of?

Thanks
Calvin

It gets worse!! Last night while watching Walk The Line with my wife it was dropping signal and picture out for a couple of seconds at a time in 720p over DVI!! This happened more regularly than in 1080i and to a much worse degree. This is not accceptable at all!! I can not imagine it being the cables or Oppo player as these are the same cables and DVD player used with my last two projectors and friends borrowed unit. They had no issues or problems at all in any up-converted resolution or with the cable type or length.

I am calling Optoma again tomorrow to find what is up with there very weak DVI and component interface on this projector!! It is no fun watching this projector now; as great a picture it may produce, this issue takes the joy out of it and is far more annoying than the slight transition that the AI iris caused in my Hitachi LCD projector.

I guess I will now try hooking the Oppo directly up to the Projector with very short cables, to completely rule that out. But who hooks up a high end ceiling mountable projector with six foot cords???? This will be such a pain to do as all my gear is nice and neatly tucked away in the cabinet at the front of the room where it should be. I did not think I would have any issues with this projector or have to resort to fooling around to try and make it produce a stable working picture. I thought that is what I paid for, when I bought this supposedly higer end product!!


MIKE

The Oppo is weak I had troubles with it with the H77, H79, NEC HT1000. Back then is when I gave up on long DVI cables and built the DVD player shelf closer to the projectors. I use 15' cables now and all the weak players work. The Bravo D2 and Oppo. Last night I tried for the first time DVI from the Comcast box that's far away. Using a 6ft cable to the HD3000 Scaler box and a 25' cable from the box, I got tons of sparklies. Ethereal does sell DVI amplifiers for the long runs.

I read someone with a Pany 900 uses a 50' DVI cable and wanted to know if that would work with the HD7100. 50' is really pushing it, I'd say no way.

The Oppo is weak I had troubles with it with the H77, H79, NEC HT1000. Back then is when I gave up on long DVI cables and built the DVD player shelf closer to the projectors. I use 15' cables now and all the weak players work. The Bravo D2 and Oppo. Last night I tried for the first time DVI from the Comcast box that's far away. Using a 6ft cable to the HD3000 Scaler box and a 25' cable from the box, I got tons of sparklies. Ethereal does sell DVI amplifiers for the long runs.

I read someone with a Pany 900 uses a 50' DVI cable and wanted to know if that would work with the HD7100. 50' is really pushing it, I'd say no way.

Tom, if the Oppo is so weak why did it work with all of my other projectors? You had problems with the 77 & 79 both Optoma projectors. Also I have never ever had any problems over my component cables at 35 feet run lengths in any up-converted resolution or from any source including the Oppo and Cambridge Audio DVD players. Nor should I have, as that is a very average run length for any component cables and especially no problem for good cables.

Have you still not tried 720p versus 1080i over DVI direct from the Toshiba to the Optoma to see if this improves or not. Have you also tried 720p or 1080i over component again direct to this projector?

Let me know what you find out and please be more direct and specific with your answers as they seem a little vague and appear even a little evasive of the questions asked by myself and others.

Thanks,

Mike

Component feeds are excellent at very long lengths. I tried component out from the Toshiba and had some quirky problems. I forget all of them, copy right on SD dvd's I think, 720p and 480p looking soft. 480i to the scaler gave the best deinterlacing but 480i didn't look crisp like 1080i. I have the Tosh working fine with the scaler box through HDMI. If I don't buy the scaler box the Tosh will have to go back. Don't know if they can get a fix for the Tosh and HD7100 so I wouldn't recommend one yet.

Try the short cable from the Oppo, bet it works. I don't have the Oppo anymore to test with.

I just purchased this unit. Picture is amazing, but seems to have a brightness uniformity problem. Left side of image is brighter than right. Has anybody else had this problem. I'm also using a comcast hd box with mono-price 50ft. hdmi cable with dvi adapter. I go from cable box to a gefen 2x2 switcher to projector. I have no problem of any kind. Also using sony 400 disc changer thru hdmi and that is fine also. I'm running both at 720p. I don't have much time left to return projector over brightness issue so please help.( Tom?)

If you display a 100IRE white pattern with Avia or others it should look smooth corner to corner. Could be the Optics aren't aligned perfectly. You could need a replacement.

My my INHD tonight, Bonnie Raite video is awesome. It's the contrast blacks and that lens in there. Get another one. :)

I just purchased this unit. Picture is amazing, but seems to have a brightness uniformity problem. Left side of image is brighter than right. Has anybody else had this problem. I'm also using a comcast hd box with mono-price 50ft. hdmi cable with dvi adapter. I go from cable box to a gefen 2x2 switcher to projector. I have no problem of any kind. Also using sony 400 disc changer thru hdmi and that is fine also. I'm running both at 720p. I don't have much time left to return projector over brightness issue so please help.( Tom?)
That's a problem I didn't have with the two that I have been through so far. Picture was excellent. My third is due to arrive on Wed. of this week. Im tired of watching no HD on a 19" television from 20 feet.

I just purchased this unit. Picture is amazing, but seems to have a brightness uniformity problem. Left side of image is brighter than right. Has anybody else had this problem. I'm also using a comcast hd box with mono-price 50ft. hdmi cable with dvi adapter. I go from cable box to a gefen 2x2 switcher to projector. I have no problem of any kind. Also using sony 400 disc changer thru hdmi and that is fine also. I'm running both at 720p. I don't have much time left to return projector over brightness issue so please help.( Tom?)



Yes, I and another member as well, take a look back a page. I am awaiting my replacement unit and hopefully it will not have this issue. Ours shows up on a black or dark movie scene, when does yours rear it's ugly head?


Mike

It appears that both 720p and 1080i are working all of the sudden tonight??? Not sure why, but no drop outs at all in either resolution over DVI from the Oppo...strange. Even tried some of the other movies from the other night that were messing up, nothing happened they worked as well. I have not done anything different yet, was about to start pulling cords, but I may not have to now. I will keep an eye on it over the next day or two, to see what happens.

Tom, hope you have not taken any of this personally, as I and I am sure all of the other forum members appreciate your help and wealth of knowledge. Just wanted you to be clearer with your answers and follow up to questions, so that others do not get the wrong idea about your motive and start attacking you again.


Mike

Thanks guys, I will return it and get another one. I really only see the brightness issue during white scenes. Hopefully new one won't have this issue. I'll keep reading all your posts and let you know how i fair when new one comes. Again, thanks for your quick response (Tom, rking and upnorth.)

bill1908...

Sorry about your troubles...I had similar problems when I got mine:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=689267

-Alex-

Hey y'all,

Since the $300 rebate offer expires tomorrow, are we looking at a price drop next week?

;)

Hey y'all,

Since the $300 rebate offer expires tomorrow, are we looking at a price drop next week?

;)


Optoma has already announced a price drop to below $3,000.00 MSRP. See the info and review of the HD7100 from projector reviews.com.

I'm considering this one, but the short throw is really causing me problems.

My back wall is 13'4" from where the screen would be. The room is not light controlled and not likely to be... to any signifigant degree anyway. How large an image are we talking here, and how much screen gain would I need to get an acceptable image?

I noticed the OP has had an LT150. I have a LT150z right now. I've heard people complain about the noise from the HD7100. Surely it is a vast improvement from the LT150?

Thanks,
Gerald

Received unit #3 yesterday. I haven't had time to run it through all of it's paces yet, but at least the bulb has fired each time I have tried so far. Hopefully over the weekend I will have a chance to do some playing.

but the rebate ends tomorrow. What will they do? Extend rebate? Offer free bulb or lower price?

I posted this question in the DVD forums but was hoping to get some more specific answers from my fellow HD7100 owners specifically.

I just set up an Optoma HD7100 projector. I'm running HDMI to it from a Yamaha RX-v2600 A/V receiver that does upscaling and upconversion. I'm currently using my Xbox 360 via component as my DVD player. The PJ is awesome and I couldn't be happier with the picture from HD over Directv or 360 games. However, I'm not thrilled with the DVD picture. It seems rather grainy to me. I'd like to get the best picture possible and have a few questions.
Will I see a difference with an Oppo DVD player (or any progressive scan DVD player for that matter) being that I have a scaler in both the PJ and the receiver already?

What are the optimum settings I should be using? For example should I let the receiver scale or just run it straight through to the PJ? Any other tips?

I do plan on going w/ a HD DVD or Blu-ray player in the near future. I still have an extensive DVD library that I'm not likely to upgrade completely any time soon so standard DVD playback will still be vital. Will I be better off w/ a dedicated DVD player for ~$100 and a HD player or will these HD players going for $400 to $1000 do as good a job on standard DVDs as a dedicated DVD player as well as play HD?

By the way, 100+ hrs and not one HDCP problem, no failures to light, brightness remains bright and uniform throughout. Definatley a happy buyer here.

Flyhigh...

The Toshiba HD-A1 is considered to be one of the best upscaling players around. Many people who have bought them have put their high end Denon, Pioneer and botique players up for sale after seeing the SD picture.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=693891

I have the HD-A1 outputting to a Benq 8720 and am VERY hard pressed to see a difference between its SD output and that of my HTPC running tweaked with TheaterTek and FFDshow at 1080i and 720p.

There has also been some discussion that the CD audio quality of the Toshiba rivals many high end players. It has incredible DAC's and the chassis is super stable and isolated. I haven't listened to any CD's on it so I don't have first hand knowledge.

That being said, there have been issues reported with the HDCP/HDMI path to the Optoma 7100. I have heard that putting a processor in the chain between the projector and HD-A1 solves this. I don't know if the newest firmware from Toshiba has taken care of this issue either.

Price on the HD-A1 is ~$500.

Oh yeah...with the HD-A1 you get HD-DVD capability too.
-Alex-

flyhigh,

Does the 360 upconvert or is it just progressive? The oppo is regarded as a very good "bang for the buck" DVD player and comes very highly recommended (I don't own one but I am looking to purchase one and the 2600 when I get my basement HT finished) around here and on other forums. I would bet that the scaler in the OPPO or the 7100 would better the scaler in the 2600.

Also there have been some issues listed here as far as flicker regarding the 1080i input to the 7100.

My guess would be that you would see an improvement with the OPPO but that is just a guess. but for around 200 dollars I don't think you could beat the OPPO as a DVD player and its little brother is around 150 bucks and also seems to get high praise.

Don't know about the HD-A1, sounds like it is pretty good too, however I'm steering clear of the BR/HD-DVD thing until the format settles in a little or there is a dual format player available for less than 300 or so (yeah I know I'm dreaming for now anyway).

Regards,

RTROSE

There was a recent xbox 360 update that "improved DVD playback quality". I looked on the xbox website and it did not say whether it upscales, upconverts or is progresive or not. Like they say in "Things to do in Denver when your dead".........give it a name. What I mean is, you can call it what you want, upscaling, upconvert, whatever, it's just not giving me the picture that I want. I think I'll look into the HD-A1. I hate being an early adopter but for ~$300 more than an Oppo, I can get a great SD DVD player and a HD player, I might just go this route. Netflix has a decent amount of HD-DVD content already and BLU seems like it's having its problems so I don't anticipate getting stuck w/ a paperweight.

Now I'm a little concerned about some of the problems reported w/ the HD-A1 and the HD7100. I'd be running 3' HDMI from the player to my Yamaha 2600 and then 20' HDMI/DVI-D to the 7100. Are these issues resolved yet? Can anyone comment? I just don't have the money now for a scaler, so it would be HD-A1/Yamaha 2600/HD 7100.

Flyhigh...

I have my HD-A1 running through the Yamaha HTR-5990. No problems with the HDMI passthrough between the Toshiba, the receiver and my Benq. All HDMI/HDCP handshakes through the receiver are good. Your 2600 is a close cousin so I can't see problems there either.

I didn't get to test the HD-A1 with the 7100 when I had it. I have only heard about the problems. I know that Optoma was working on a fix or at least promised one. I wonder if the passthrough the Yamaha would fix the chain?

BTW...I think the improvement in the upscaling on the Xbox360 is through the 15 pin VGA breakout ONLY. I tested a 360 and they opened it up after the latest update from Live to let you play your DVD at any native resolution...480p, 720p or 1080i. This does not apply to component out as the VGA was grandfathered into the upscaling protections of content. Unfortunately, the output, while better at the higher resolutions, is still poor compared to a HTPC or DVD player.

-Alex-

There was a recent xbox 360 update that "improved DVD playback quality". I looked on the xbox website and it did not say whether it upscales, upconverts or is progresive or not. Like they say in "Things to do in Denver when your dead".........give it a name. What I mean is, you can call it what you want, upscaling, upconvert, whatever, it's just not giving me the picture that I want. I think I'll look into the HD-A1. I hate being an early adopter but for ~$300 more than an Oppo, I can get a great SD DVD player and a HD player, I might just go this route. Netflix has a decent amount of HD-DVD content already and BLU seems like it's having its problems so I don't anticipate getting stuck w/ a paperweight.

Now I'm a little concerned about some of the problems reported w/ the HD-A1 and the HD7100. I'd be running 3' HDMI from the player to my Yamaha 2600 and then 20' HDMI/DVI-D to the 7100. Are these issues resolved yet? Can anyone comment? I just don't have the money now for a scaler, so it would be HD-A1/Yamaha 2600/HD 7100.


Hold off on the HDA1 there's no change yet with the HD7100. Unless you use the Scaler box than it will work. Best players are still Faroudja chipped players, a Panasonic S97 or Oppo. Testing the HDA1 deinterlacing I found it's just shy of good. Ratings are Poor Good Excellent. You get Excellent with the Pany or Oppo.

So if you want to know you're getting the best deinterlacing for SD/DVD I'd use the S97. But in the real world many will have a hard time seeing what the better deinterlacing is therefore the HDA1 looks great to them. I fall in this category, the HDA1 displaying SD/DVD when working looked super with the HD7100. :)

New replacement arrived. Hooked it up and so far no problems and no drop outs over the 35 foot DVI or Component cables up-converted to any resolution, 720p or 1080i. Will keep an eye on it over the next couple of days though. There does not appear to be as much of a light leak in the top corner on dark scenes; it's there just not as bad as before. The IR sensor works fine, and I am also happy to report that using the Harmony 880 to control the projector works like a charm, without the limitations of the projectors accompanying factory remote.

Picture is excellent and again I have only used the Get Gray disc to calibrate brightness, contrast and sharpness. Will hopefully get to do a full Colorfacts calibration run this long weekend and post my result along with pics by Monday.

All is well for now,

Mike

I'm considering this one, but the short throw is really causing me problems.

My back wall is 13'4" from where the screen would be. The room is not light controlled and not likely to be... to any signifigant degree anyway. How large an image are we talking here, and how much screen gain would I need to get an acceptable image?

I noticed the OP has had an LT150. I have a LT150z right now. I've heard people complain about the noise from the HD7100. Surely it is a vast improvement from the LT150?

Thanks,
Gerald


You should be able to achieve a 106" to 133" inch screen from 13'.4" back to the lens. According to the manual which you can also view at

http://www.optomausa.com/PDFs/usermanuals/Optoma_HD7100_User_Manual.pdf

I would suggest a 92" to 106" inch diagonal screen especially if going gray. I would go with a high contrast gray screen like the Optoma Gray Wolf or other brand. I have a gray surface screen and prefer it, as it helps control any stray ambient light like what you describe you may have. It also improves black levels and the contrast of the projected image. I would say between 1.0 and 1.3 max for gain, any less and it may be too dim and any more may be to bright with possible other negatives like hot spots and colour variations.

Noise of image not bad and noise from projector fan not bad either in low mode which is what I am operating in.

Tom do you concur?

Mike

Rebate extended...
:)

Optoma has already announced a price drop to below $3,000.00 MSRP. See the info and review of the HD7100 from projector reviews.com.


I expect to see the promo extend or the price drop . I'll post if there is any indication of such
I'm really bummed about the 7100 reviews however I still think its a strong projector once a couple of fixes go through.
...I dont know why everyone is always surpirsed with the throw issue with DLPs. This short throw is somewhat common with low end DLP vs. LCD.

TicoTVA

Yep, extended until 7/31. The hd72 just got the $300 rebate to and they dropped the free bulb offer.

:)

Hey Dave
Where did you see that extanded the rebate already, on they're site? dealer?

2 Questions:

1 On the layout menu, I do not see the option for "H Position" or "V Position". I have the options there for H and V Keystone, but the manual shows there should be the other two options under H-V Postion Function. Why am I not seeing them?

2 Why is the "Deinterlacing" option greyed out for me on the options menu? I'm guessing that while connecting via HDMI/DVI it gets greyed out but I'm curious as to why. Even if I choose "through" while passing the 480i signal from my DVD player to the receiver to the PJ it still is greyed out. I'd like to try the PJ's scaler as opposed to the DVD player's or my receiver's (Yamaha 2600). What am I missing?

dealer sites. Try some at the top of the page!

You can get the H/V & Vertical Shift with the Scaler. You can also adjust an image H/V by 100 pixels in each direction. You could form your own 4.3 size or 2.35 size view if you choose.

I've seen the deinterlacing for 480i component and it tested very good with the HQV test DVD. You can get to the Scaler over HDMI though I haven't tried it. I did try 480i and 1080i to the Scaler and deinterlacer took a giant step up.

Approaching 500hrs now and not too many issues. Still we need an overscan feature for white noise or at least a vertical shift. It's definitely in the making plus they're working on home firmwares, no guarantees yet but's it high up on the list. I asked about that just last week, we need in home firmware capabilities.

dealer sites. Try some at the top of the page!


Great I see Dave
Thanks

Tom,

It would be nice if Optoma would consider home firmware updates across the board and not just the HD7100.

Wayne

That was the plan, makes it easy all around.

WOOHOO!!

Not that my perfect H78 and H57 projectors need a firmware update mind you. :)

Wayne

It looks like I might be selling my trusty old h57 tomorrow. What to do now...
The hd7100 sounds appealing but all of these issued have me wary. I want to get an hd-a1 but it might be pointless with this PJ, yes? Everyone reccomends using the 1080i output on the Tosh.
Maybe the hd72? IN76? Mits Hc3000?

:(

It looks like I might be selling my trusty old h57 tomorrow. What to do now...
The hd7100 sounds appealing but all of these issued have me wary. I want to get an hd-a1 but it might be pointless with this PJ, yes? Everyone reccomends using the 1080i output on the Tosh.
Maybe the hd72? IN76? Mits Hc3000?

:(

Personally, I wouldn't base the choice of your projector around a 1st generation HD DVD player. I'm a happy owner of a HD7100 so I might be bias but I've had zero problems with mine, and the picture quality is astonishing to me. I'm sure the other PJs you've listed are great PJs too, but keep this in mind; I went to a very high end A/V store yesterday where the had the Toshiba HD-XA1, the high end version of it on display playing "Apollo 13". They were very dissapointed with it, and repeatedly told me that they wouldn't sell it to me. They weren't against HD DVD, just the buggy player for a number of reasons including 2minute power on times, HDCP issues where frequent power off and ons are required and other issues common to most first generation products. I would wait a few months for better and cheaper players to come out, or at least for firmware to come out and fix the some of the current issues. I'm by no means trying to downplay the quality of picture the HD-XA1 put out, I'm sure that people who own then are thrilled with the picture. I just wanted to through my two cents in about changing your idea about purchasing the Optoma HD7100 based partly on the fact that it has compatibility issues with a DVD player. I'd find a HD DVD player that worked with my PJ, not a PJ to work with the DVD player I own. But hey, what do I know?

With the new rebate and already low price for a pretty solid DC3 projector it would be hard to pass up if you're in the market.

Wing did get a new firmware for his HDA1 and it worked allot better, but he still had a few HDMI errors and had to pull the cable to reboot.

Flyhigh makes a good point. I wouldn't recommend the HD72 over the HD7100 just because the HDA1 will work with the HD72. I've ab'd the 72 and 7100 manys times the difference is hugh.

Most I could get was 2000.1 with the 72. I got an easy 4300.1 with the 7100 and that's after tuning down to D65k.

I hear ya guys but I am planning on getting a Tosh. It seems silly that if I buy this projector I can't use a specific player that pretty much everyone else is fine with now with the firmware upgrades. Also, my comcast HD is 1080 i...!

Tom,

What's the best you got with an H78? :D

Wayne

H79 2900.1

Not too shabby at all. Not 4300:1 mind you but still very good indeed. :)

Thanks Tom,

Wayne

Well, projector number 3 now has problems. Optoma has now struck out with me. If I have a computer plugged into the computer input the bulb refuses to fire. Blue light shuts off, fan blows, no bulb fire. The computer input worked fine with my previous projector, an InFocus X1. Time to get ANOTHER RA and return this thing.

Mine did the slow startup again just yesterday. It did that a couple of times when it had low hours.

What I see with mine is first the blue LED light goes off, fans start and the bulb shows some light. Then the bulb will go off and the fans keep running. I don't unplug or anything I just wait a little longer then I'll see the blue LED flash once, after that the bulb fully lights up.

Do you see a small amount of light at first like the bulbs trying to ignite? If so wait longer and maybe the LED will flash again which should start up another bulb strike cycle.

It this keeps up it's best to get it fixed false starts aren't good for bulb life.

This is my third one. I am going to get it "fixed" by returning it and looking elsewhere.

rking,

sorry to hear that you have struck out. I have "officially" taken this projector off of my short list due to some of the issues that you have had and some of the initial problems listed with this pj.

I would have had to serious redesign of my ht to accommodate this projector, but at one time I thought that it just might be worth it; now not so much.

I have always had the Epson 550 at the top of my short list and I am thinking I should stop spending so much time researching other pj's and just bite the bullet and purchase it.

What are you thinking about getting now? Would love to here what you get next. Good luck on your next pj, hopefully you have all the bad luck used up now!

Regards,

RTROSE

I would have had to serious redesign of my ht to accommodate this projector, but at one time I thought that it just might be worth it; now not so much.I kept trying this one because it fit in the exact same spot where I had my former InFocus x1 mounted. I NEEDED the short throw. Looks like anything else that I get will require more holes in the ceiling and patching existing holes, not to mention a whole new batch of cables and AC wiring.

Has anyone here been successful in using this projector with a computer? I am attempting to test it using my laptop, which should be a plug and play type situation (after setting up the computer for two screens). Everytime I plug in the computer the bulb shuts down and stays down for several minutes. When it comes back it works fine on component #2 input, but still won't show the computer. I had previously used my X1 many times with the computer to give various presentations (a use to which I wasn't planning to use this projector for).

What are you thinking about getting now?I have no idea at this point.

I gotta tell you guys, I am really wondering what happened to Optoma lately. I owned an H57 which looked FAB, never had an issue at ALL. I sold it to move up to 720P land and I am wondering what's going on. The hd72 had a bunch that would have a unit/lamp hours reset, the h78's and 79's are burning through lamps like no tomorrow and now all these problems with the 7100. Buying an optoma now is like playing Russian Roulette. What happened to them? I LOVED the pic. I had from my h57 but wanted more resolution. Is Optoma actually stepping up to the plate and doing anything about this? Any manufacturer with a product that varies between a 25% and 50% defect rate is doing something wrong IMHO....

:( d

BUYER BEWARE....I just replaced my excellent Optoma EP910 with the HD7100 due to needing a short throw lens and I could not be more dissapointed. The image quality is horrible...fuzzy and completley weak and washed out looking. There's got to be a problem with this unit..my hidef sat pictures look almost as bad as a standard off air 480 signal.

The picture on mine (in fact all 3 so far) has been GREAT. I can't complain about that at all. If your's is not good your unit has a problem.

Good lord,

I don't want to be all alarmy but WHAT'S GOING ON?!?!?!? Who's minding the store?
Every new post I read in an optoma thread is making me want to cross them off of my consideration list. I sympathize with all of the owners having these issues. I for one have a VERY low tolerance for defective products that I pay my hard earned money for especially if the company is denying what's going on. If you have a product with a high number of defects, do the right thing. Do a recall, a swap program if it gets fixed or just come clean. I went through HELL with Dell and their atrocious customer service with our laptop, the Inspiron 1150, that was poorly designed, overheats , slowing the computer down to a crawl and even crashing it completely requiring a hard drive swap. After searching online I came across literally hundreds of owner's posts with the same problem and DELL never admitted the poor design. The time wasted dealing with that issue was ridiculous. I don't think I could deal with that kind of stress again. I live in Cali. and would probably drop into Optoma and raise hell.

But I'm kinda nuts... :)

The picture on mine (in fact all 3 so far) has been GREAT. I can't complain about that at all. If your's is not good your unit has a problem.
RKing, no offense dude but I think that is a really funny statement. "ALL 3" of my hd7100's have had a great pic. so your unit must have had a problem. Dude, you are on your 3rd unit!!!! I think yours have had "problems" too!!!


;)

BUYER BEWARE....I just replaced an excellent Optoma EP910 with the HD7100 due to needing a short throw lens and I could not be more dissapointed. The image quality is horrible...fuzzy and completley weak and washed out looking. There's got to be a problem with this unit..my hidef sat pictures look almost as bad as a standard off air 480 signal.

Anybody want this thing cheap ? I want my EP910 back it was the best I've found with the exception of the placement issues.

I kept trying this one because it fit in the exact same spot where I had my former InFocus x1 mounted. I NEEDED the short throw. Looks like anything else that I get will require more holes in the ceiling and patching existing holes, not to mention a whole new batch of cables and AC wiring.

Has anyone here been successful in using this projector with a computer? I am attempting to test it using my laptop, which should be a plug and play type situation (after setting up the computer for two screens). Everytime I plug in the computer the bulb shuts down and stays down for several minutes. When it comes back it works fine on component #2 input, but still won't show the computer. I had previously used my X1 many times with the computer to give various presentations (a use to which I wasn't planning to use this projector for).
I have no idea at this point.

I have a HTPC that works fine with DVI, I'm looking around for a VGA cable to test a laptop. Projector fired right up this morning. I had it down a couple of days using my HT1000 for classic movies.

rking

Sorry to hear about the problems you're having with this pj. I sympathzise with you, though. I have an H77 that had to be replaced 3 times before I got a unti that worked properly. I have to say though that the times that I dealt with Optoma, I was always treated well, so I can't say anything bad about their customer service - just their QC. How has your experience been with them during this ordeal?

How has your experience been with them during this ordeal?So far I have simply exchanged the bad units for new ones with AVScience (this forum's sponsor, where I purchased). I have had no contact with Optoma so far. This one is going to go back for a refund and I am no longer going to consider Optoma.

I got no signal using a laptop thru VGA, projector didn't turn off though.

rKing, sorry to hear it man. My h57 was great. I know Optoma's can produce awesome pictures, WHEN THEY WORK.......! They REALLY need to get their act together IMHO!

d

Well, I tried another computer through the projector and all seems to be working properly. I am typing this while using my 98" monitor and all "seems" to be well. I guess I will hang on to this one and keep the fingers crosse.

By the way, my first video source off the computer through the projector was this: http://mfile.akamai.com/18566/wmv/etouchsyst2.download.akamai.com/18355/wm.nasa-global/sts-121/right_forward_srb_camera.asx It is amazing to watch. A shot from a camera mounted on the shuttle's external tank. Check it out.

Cool clip.

Thanks!

Does anyone have any calibration tips/results they can post? I see that kind of information all over other PJ threads but not in this one. Is there anything a DIY'er can do? How do I know if I even need it to be calibrated in the first place?

Thanks, I'm just trying to get the most out of this brilliant PJ.

The out of box grayscale is very good. Just tune things up with a calibration DVD, Avia, DVE etc. Take a look at a gray box pattern you'll see the steps of gray are very steely gray in tone. Not much to do there.

Pick the 6500k temp and gamma 2.2 also.

One thing I found out this morning is my JVC/DVD recorders output is PC video level because setting the Scaler box to 7.5 crushed out the blacks. No moving black bars to be found no matter what brightness level. I switched the scaler box to 0IRE vs 7.5 and the bars came back. You won't hv that problem with many other devices though. Using the Panasonic S97 in Normal 7.5 video mode I'll get no black crush, most other players also.

The color and tint adjustments are greyed out. Is this due to the fact that I'm using HDMI/DVI or do I need an external scaler or something else to make adjustments to color and tint?

Hi FLyHigh, It sounds like My optoma h57, you have to use the RGB level adjustments to set color and tint. Wasn't in my manual either... Good luck :)

Just tuning the brightness and contrast s/b good enough over DVI with the HD7100. Do you see color problems?

Tom,

My distributor for the Optoma projectors lists the 7200 as requiring dealer certification to buy and resell but not the 7100. My salesman didn't know why this would be. His answer that Optoma sometimes was unpredictable didn't make sense. Do you have any idea why. It makes me wonder about the 7100 and its true position in the product line.

Jack

What about obvious functionality problems? I have an HD7100 that wont remember input settings for some reason. Its a major pain in my A$$


PS just read rking401 posts and OH CRAP I am in the same boat. This HD7100 was having some of the same problems not showin an image through the VGA input. The lamp would fire up but no pic.

I think the HD7100 might be a POS and who knows the way optoma comes out with new projectors as fast as they do and are quick to upgrade and disscontinue units that work just fine we may see the HD7100 scrapped very soon. Optoma seems to not want to work out problems when they make new machines a realese crap, then do up grades when they figure things out and call them new models then two weeks later completly disscontinue a projector for no reason.

Heres another question. Why the hell didnt they put BNC connectors on the HD7100 like they did on the top of the line H77 and H79? I thought that was awsome on those projectors and with all the room on the HD 7100 it should have been a no brainer. What no one uses external scalers any more?

OPTOMA, you guys need to get your "Sh*T together. Im not selling any more of your products for a while I think. STOP experimenting with new projectors and get the ones on the market working 100% before you come out with any thing new ok!

This is officailly off my short list. I'm gonna check out the Benq8720 threads.

Tom,

My distributor for the Optoma projectors lists the 7200 as requiring dealer certification to buy and resell but not the 7100. My salesman didn't know why this would be. His answer that Optoma sometimes was unpredictable didn't make sense. Do you have any idea why. It makes me wonder about the 7100 and its true position in the product line.

Jack


Just got back from Vegas = late reply. You mean the HD7300 but I don't think Optoma will sell to anyone that doesn't open an account. Everything has to be accounted for.

"What about obvious functionality problems? I have an HD7100 that wont remember input settings for some reason. Its a major pain in my A$$"

Are you talking about user color adjustment settings? Or is it the not remembering the last signal you were on when you closed out the last viewing session? The PJ starts up looking for DVI because it's looking for the scaler.

I find hitting the button for the signal I want works pretty well, I aim the remote at the ceiling close to the PJ.

I'm trying a CRT projector for the first time. Man popping on the HD7100 after viewing the CRT is an eye opening experience. The HD7100 reminds me very much of the 56"JVC DLIA TV I have. The image just sizzles with brightness and color saturation. Nice machine the HD7100 I could live with this one for a good amount of time.

I find hitting the button for the signal I want works pretty well, I aim the remote at the ceiling close to the PJ.I find that I have to wait for a couple of minutes before it will accept the input command from the remote. I also find that I have to press it at least twice for the projector to respond. I also find that it comes up on the correct input about 25% of the time (if I'm lucky). Like I said, if I didn't need the short throw lens I would be screaming for my money back. I don't recommend this for ANYONE not needing the short throw. Great picture, lousy functionality.

Like I said mine sails thru nice and easy. I got House going just this second, HDTV on comcast the picture is more than stunning. The best contrast/black level/clearity/saturation I've seen to date on a digital projector. It's a keeper :) Now I know you have to be seeing what I'm seeing. Yes I have calibration equipment but the machine barely needed it. Whoa I just looked up at the image, whoa mamma! :) You can't recommend this?

Aim the remote at the ceiling just in front of the PJ lens, it should pick up the beam instantly. I think the other member was complaining the PJ starts with DVI, I don't find that a deal breaker issue do you?

come on now

Guitarman--
What model CRT projector are you trying? I'm considering the HD7100 and you having both technologies for comparison could be of help. Sounds like you feel the CRT is not bright enough. Is that right?
David

Aim the remote at the ceiling just in front of the PJ lens, it should pick up the beam instantly. I think the other member was complaining the PJ starts with DVI, I don't find that a deal breaker issue do you?The remote works just fine, the projector won't respond to it until it has been on for a period of time. If the remote was a problem the projector wouldn't turn on, it does that just fine, then won't respond when I try to go to the component input until it has been on for a minute or two. I agree 100% on the picture quality. It is excellent. It is just terribly frustrating to not have it come up on the last active input (which if designed properly it should). I will probably end up having to do a reprogram of my Harmony remote to include a two minte delay and then change input. The problem with this is that during that delay the remote can't do anything else, including adjust volume if it happened to be too high when last turned off. This is, by the way, my third unit. The other two had two different problems which I discussed on other posts in this and other threads. It just doesn't appear to be ready for prime time to me. I LOVE the picture though. Because of the functionality problems though I would probably go elsewhere if I didn't have to replace all my cables (or find my misplaced cable stretcher) and put more holes in the ceiling of my living room. Sure, it's a RELATIVELY minor complaint (this time), but it is a very frustrating one. Once it's on and switched to the proper input I LOVE it.

Guitarman--
What model CRT projector are you trying? I'm considering the HD7100 and you having both technologies for comparison could be of help. Sounds like you feel the CRT is not bright enough. Is that right?
David

I have a Dwin HD-700. A/b comparison showes me the HD7100 digital has you not wanting for black levels vs the CRT. The brightness and ANSI contrast on the HD7100 is not minor in comparison, maybe 20times more intense.

The remote works just fine, the projector won't respond to it until it has been on for a period of time. If the remote was a problem the projector wouldn't turn on, it does that just fine, then won't respond when I try to go to the component input until it has been on for a minute or two. I agree 100% on the picture quality. It is excellent. It is just terribly frustrating to not have it come up on the last active input (which if designed properly it should). I will probably end up having to do a reprogram of my Harmony remote to include a two minte delay and then change input. The problem with this is that during that delay the remote can't do anything else, including adjust volume if it happened to be too high when last turned off. This is, by the way, my third unit. The other two had two different problems which I discussed on other posts in this and other threads. It just doesn't appear to be ready for prime time to me. I LOVE the picture though. Because of the functionality problems though I would probably go elsewhere if I didn't have to replace all my cables (or find my misplaced cable stretcher) and put more holes in the ceiling of my living room. Sure, it's a RELATIVELY minor complaint (this time), but it is a very frustrating one. Once it's on and switched to the proper input I LOVE it.

I think mine may be like that on start up I'll test it. When I start I see a flash of the Optoma HD Lifestyle logo which I wish would just stay on while it's warming up. After that I'll see the DVI input logo and it's getting brighter so it's still warming up. Maybe the PJ needs to be fully warmed up before you start changing inputs.

Interesting comparison between the CRT and the HD7100 Tom! :cool:

Don't let the CRT fanatics find out about this though. You'll never hear the end of it. ;)

Wayne

Tom (guitarman): is the 7300 out yet? Is it significantly better than the 7300? Also, can't find out if it has the same lens, throw, etc., as the 7100. I don't think there is a dedicated '7300 thread' yet, is there?

Bill, the 7300 is the 7100 with the stand alone processor.

Bill, the 7300 is the 7100 with the stand alone processor.

Tom, this had been my understanding, but then on PJC I noticed that the CR was listed as 6000:1 for the 7300, but 5000:1 for the 7100, suggesting that the 7300 might have some differences from the 7100. ???

They're suggesting the scaler control options can add to the contrast. And it can the BW-enhancement/expansion can really liven things up.

Sounds good.

Interesting comparison between the CRT and the HD7100 Tom! :cool:

Don't let the CRT fanatics find out about this though. You'll never hear the end of it. ;)

Wayne

Yep I'm trying to be fair because it's a excellent technology (old analog) :) DLP's have gotten so good and they're just easy.

I spent 12hrs setting up the CRT. Harry Potter 1 and AVP do look excellent on it, but also look good on the HD7100.

Any word on the $300 rebate being extended into August?

No word yet on an extension from us here. We just ended our promo

ticotva

My source just informed me that it has been extended and is now $400.

I find it funny this projector seems to have slipped through the cracks. I was in awe when I first viewed the HD7100, so much so I had to buy it. I think it's the best image an Optoma projector produces to this date. If you don't want to buy into a $6 or $7 thousand dollar projector this one's a great option.

Mine has about 575hrs and I'm viewing it with pure sunlight entering the two adjacent rooms, the picture still can have plenty of pop. It will be excellent for Sunday football games.

Clarity/color saturation/brightness/blacks are it's best attributes. Plus dealers are selling it cheap. :)

Jack, if you decide to upgrade from the HT1000 and this fits the budget, snag it you'll be thanking me. :)

Tom,

You mention that the 7100 seems to have fallen through the cracks........I tend to agree with you.

I was looking at the 7100 but some of the initial issues (and current ones too) have scared me off in regards to the 7100. The short throw did not help in my situation either (however I was going to try to make it work) in my basement. I'm getting ready to start construction later this month on my HT.

I don't doubt that this projector throws a fantastic image, even the owners here that have returned the pj for various reason claim that, but I think that the short throw, initial issues, and some here feeling that this was just a stop gap pj from Optoma until some thing better comes along sure did not help the situation either. But you are right for what ever the reason it sure seem that this pj dropped right off of the radar into the Bermuda Triangle!

Regards,

RTROSE

I just returned my H27 because I'm considering getting the HD7100. Question for those who have this projector: Is the image rounded around the corners in any way?

The reason I ask is that through experience I remember that most extremely short throw lens tend to round the image corners (usually this occurs with the really short throw lens such as a .8:1 lens and sometimes a 1:1 lens). Has anyone noticed this occuring with the 7100?

Hello all,

I thought i'd chim in. I was on the fence for a week or so with what to get, as my bubl on my HT1000 went out and rather then throw down on another bulb I felt it was time to upgrade since the HD7100 could be had for around 2500 after rebates.


I also at the same time purchased the HD-A1. The HD-A1 came with 1.4 installed, and had a few minor issues with load up times although after fiquring out its small quirks the player seems to work good, also I did have a handshack issue with the HDMI to the HD7100 although by just unplugging, and then repluggin the hdmi it works great. I have yet to test the HD-A1 that will happen later tonight with my first HD disc.

For last night's testing I used my oppo which I feel produces an excellent image(1080i upconverted over dvi). The build quality of the HD7100 seems very impressive coming from a HT1000. The HT1000 already had great black levels, so I expect alot. Not really looking for a great movie, I just needed demo material so I put in Fantastic Four.

Results? Stunning, the HD7100 had just as good black levels as my 2 year old NEC HT1000 , and its safe to say better. Noise? I'm not sure If they shipped me a special unit, although compared to the HT1000 the 7100 is nearly dead silent!
The Colors and brightness of the 7100 was excellent, far better then then the HT1000. The image was very film like, and reminded me more of a DLP at the local theaters then the HT1000 was able to do.

In conclusion, if anyone is on the fence witih the 7100 I strongly recommend it, the image & build quality are top notch for the price & I highly doubt any player for 2500 or under can touch the 7100's sheer image quality.

How do you buy this PJ through the AVS forum? And does it now work with the Tosh HD-A1. Thanks.

Click on their link at the top of the page, and call Jason Turk, Dave Harper or Daniel Hutnicki (sp?).

"But you are right for what ever the reason it sure seem that this pj dropped right off of the radar into the Bermuda Triangle!"

That's why I made the statement, funny because it has the best image to date for an Optoma projector and they've made some great ones.

Maybe a couple had quirks but it's not the end of the line, many will be running smooth and get to see the best image they've seen to date. Mine's a solid performer,

I have an HT1000 also, if you're coming from a HT1k wait till you view some good HDTV movies. Alien vs Preditor blew me away.

Regarding Tom's last statement...I can remember a couple of problems with the 7100:

1. A reluctance or sometimes refusal to fire the bulb. This was often addressed by unplugging and replugging the projector.
2. A problem with shaking hands with the new Toshiba HD-DVD.
3. Higher than normal fan noise.

Number 1 seems like the only real serious problem for the average user. Has this problem been addressed yet by engineering for new projectors? Can it be fixed by a software patch? Is there a way to find out? How about Number 2?

Have I missed any other problems? If not, and numbers 1 and 2 have been addressed then I can see no reason for anyone to pass on this projector.

Jack

Jack. My first projector had a problem where whenever I switched to the computer input the bulb would shut down and the high bulb temp indicator would come on. I purchased this from Jason and he sent me a replacement. The second projector had problem #1 above. Jason replaced it also. The third (and current) projector has none of those problems, but it only comes up on the proper input about 25% of the time (including this morning). I can live with this since it simply requires pushing a button on the remote. Problem #1 above required unplugging the projector which was a real pain. I am staying with it because it has a short throw and I was able to place it in the EXACT same spot as my former InFocus X1 and the picture is excellent.

I'm considering the HD7100. My room is 10'x10'. My screen is 77" wide. The seating is against the back wall, 9.5' away from the screen. Will pixel structure be seen at this distance with this projector?

Thanks.

I'm returned my 2nd Samsung SP-H710AE (startup issue) should I consider the Optoma HD7100 in term of picture quality in replacement of the excellent (when it work) picture of the Sammy ?

For sure a great picture and shouldn't have catastrophic problems. Plus it's a DC3, isn't the Sammy a DC2?

I'm considering the HD7100. My room is 10'x10'. My screen is 77" wide. The seating is against the back wall, 9.5' away from the screen. Will pixel structure be seen at this distance with this projector?

Thanks.

Everybody's different but no it shouldn't be a problem. I find it hard to the SD 10' from a 92" wide screen. I don't wear glasses, my wife who wears glasses had to go 4 or 5 feet up to the screen to see the SD.

I got a chance to see this tonight at a local dealer and I have to say, I left pretty impressed. We popped on a Yamaha 1300 first and the "wow!" was instantaneous- that puppy throws one seriously beautiful image. I had him shut if off quick because I knew I would be too spoiled to adequetely assess the Optoma, and immediately I did see a difference. However the longer I watched the less that difference mattered. Unfortunately they have a microperf screen so it was hard to get a real good handle on the finer points, but Black level looked to be outstanding. and that was with white walls and diffused light entering the room. Details in the highlights maybe could have been better, but then I'm iffy on the source and the content was unfamiliar to me as well- so that could have played a role in it.
after the black levels the next point that really impressed me was the range of h/v lens shift. I had originally had to check this pj off my list due to the throw being less than ideal for where I want to put my next one- but if just keep the same cart system I have now, I think I could swing it with the lens shift getting a good work out. I would prefer not to keep doing things this way, but $1300 price difference between this and the Benq makes a compelling argument in favor of living with the inconvienence just a little longer.

I tried to guage the level of noise and its was hard with everything that was going on out side the room (including a live band playing), but it seemed to me to be well on par with my HT1000, and probably a hair quieter.

negatives would be that it looked a little cheaply constructed (though I like the design better than the h78 I saw) though the zoom and focus rings seemed to be fairly tight. It also took a while to get a picture out of it for some reason.

Otherwise it definitely throws things out of whack for me a bit. I have an 8720 coming in at the end of the month, and I'll be giving it a good going over, but it is going to be hard now to justify the extra $1300- especially with 1080ps right around the corner. getting this as a 2 year stop gap might just be the smartest thing to do.

decisions decisions...

Well i just sold my HD72 to upgrade to a 7100 and all this negitive talk kind of scares me away!Can there really be that much of a difference in image quality between the HD72 and the 7100?Is it really worth the upgrade or should i wait and get the 8720?

Isn't the Sammy/benQ an HD2? There's a huge difference between the HD72 and HD7100, I've a/b'ed them several times. 2000.1 on the HD72 4400.1 on the HD7100 plus the HD7100 has crystal clear optics best I've seen.

guitarman,

does the HD7100 have a sealed light path like the BenQ8720? I've searched and can't find the answer.


Coming from LCD, I am very weary of dust and how it can trash the light engine and optics.



Also, is there any light leakage from the case?

I've grown tired of the light leakage from my Sanyo's case.

Anyone using RS232 control with the HD7100/7300? I'm not having any luck getting it to take commands from my Xantech IRS232A. Optoma tech support has been no help.

Thanks

guitarman,

does the HD7100 have a sealed light path like the BenQ8720? I've searched and can't find the answer.


Coming from LCD, I am very weary of dust and how it can trash the light engine and optics.



Also, is there any light leakage from the case?

I've grown tired of the light leakage from my Sanyo's case.


It's sealed up, the machine is built like a tank, wait till you hold one in your hands. Here's a picture of it on.

It's sealed up, the machine is built like a tank, wait till you hold one in your hands. Here's a picture of it on.

Thank you!

Now If I can just convince myself that the Higher Db rating, and short throw, is not a negative. :D

Isn't the Sammy/benQ an HD2? There's a huge difference between the HD72 and HD7100, I've a/b'ed them several times. 2000.1 on the HD72 4400.1 on the HD7100 plus the HD7100 has crystal clear optics best I've seen.
No, they are both HD2+, however, the Sammy is a DC2, but according to Jason it has better shadow detail than the Optoma. But other than some initial problems with startups some 7100s seem to have had, it seems to be a reliable machine (I would hazard a guess the bulb will be more reliable than the HD78/79); conversely, the Sammy seems to have a fair number of issues.

The BenQ seems to have better CR, lumens, quality and lens than the HD7100 (it also has some of the SD Jason and Guitarman mentioned with the latter), but it also is ~$1,300 more and lack's horizontal shift. Lastly, both projectors have vastly different throws, so one would likely be more ideal than the other in a particular room. You might want to confirm your throw needs before even investigating further.

does the 7100 bob or weave 1080 signals ? also i have a denon 2200 should i keep this player or get a oppo for now (getting hd when they figure it out)

Does anyone have a screen larger than 130 inches with an HD7100? If so what is the screen brand and gain?

What a sweet projector...just recieved mine on Wed. Also just got my 118" Carada. Once everything is mounted and finished, I'll post some pics. Can't wait to get my HD DVD player going as well....

do you think the picture is grainy at all or noisy? this has been my only real concern with this projector

What a sweet projector...just recieved mine on Wed. Also just got my 118" Carada. Once everything is mounted and finished, I'll post some pics. Can't wait to get my HD DVD player going as well....

I'll be interested to know how the new firmware on the Toshiba works with the HD7100. I brought my machine back because of HMDI issues. But when it was working Blazzing Saddles looked awesome. The best HDTV out there.
lmk

I went back to the same retailer that I saw the 7100 at a few weeks ago and this we couldn't even get the thing to fire up at all. Thre standby light would come on, and then we he tried to engage the bulb it would shut off.
after 15 minutes of fiddling with it after taking it off of the mount, I told him to never mind, as I just crossed the pj off my short list.

if it was a one time deal, I would cut it some slack, but we had problems getting it up and running the last time I saw it, and given the widespread problems with the lamps in the h78/79s, I think I'll just pass on Optomas for the time being.

shame, as it hit a pretty sweet price point for sure.

Bought a 7100 back in June and after ~100 hrs it developed problems firing the lamp and maintaining intensity. The image would occasionally start brightening and darkening in steps every few seconds. At first I thought it was a signal problem, but then observed that menus did the same thing. Ignored it for a week or so and the lamp eventually died completely right in the middle of a show. Returned entire pj to Optoma for a replacement. Replacement unit just hit ~150 hrs this weekend and guess what? Had trouble firing the lamp five times and image intensity flutter has started! PQ is fantastic otherwise, so here I go back to Optoma for another replacement. This is getting very frustrating.

What a shame. It is actually a great projector if they can only work through their problems. I am a heavy user and am at 475 hours (on my third unit) and have to say the bulb is working fine. It always fires, but i never have any idea what source it will come up on.

It should be looking for DVI for the scaler option. This is one projector I own, mine has 600hrs still looks like the day I got it. Very bright, sharp as a tack, deep black level, 4400.1 tuned contrast ratio.

I think head to head the HD7100 would put many if not all 720p projectors to shame.
Believe it

Just look, in my room which has white walls and ceiling I got - 4300.1
http://www.cigarbest.com/sales/hd7100cr2.jpg

Now moving the sensor at the screen where the real black level is I got - 5700.1
http://www.cigarbest.com/sales/hd7100cr3.jpg

You have to know white walls can effect CR levels, mainly towards the black level. If I painted my room these numbers should go way higher don't you think?
For joy my wife says I can paint the walls any color I like. She now understands the testing comes first over aesthethics. What color do you think? Crimson walls, Gray ceiling!

This is one of the best captures I've taken, very good depth of field.
http://www.cigarbest.com/sales/hd7100nwest4.jpg

I don't think you will find anyone who will debate the picture quality with you. However, the overall quality of other things in the projector leave much to be desired. Picture quality has never been an issue with me (or anyone that I have seen post here).

What a shame. It is actually a great projector if they can only work through their problems. I am a heavy user and am at 475 hours (on my third unit) and have to say the bulb is working fine. It always fires, but i never have any idea what source it will come up on.
Both of mine have reliably come up on the DVI input, but that is the only input I have connected. Perhaps I'd see the same problem as you if I had live signal at other inputs. Annoyingly it (they!) always default to 16:9 scaling on power up. Since I have an external scaler (VP30) I'd like the default scaling at the pj to be pixel-to-pixel. It's bothersome to have to hit the remote every time. I'm tempted to build a little microcontroller board that would issue the proper RS232 serial command to swich the scaling whenever I power on the pj.

I don't think you will find anyone who will debate the picture quality with you. However, the overall quality of other things in the projector leave much to be desired. Picture quality has never been an issue with me (or anyone that I have seen post here).
Seconded. PQ knocks my socks off every time, even when projecting on my uneven, excessively-reflective wall. (Theater w/ proper screen is under construction, of course!)

The first failure I chalked up to a lamp problem, but now with a second having the exact same symptoms I'm thinking there's a pj hw design problem. I've observered several times where the pj fires the lamp, the lamp achieves full brightness, but the pj never "boots" to display the Optoma logo. It eventually turns the lamp off and resets. Makes me think the firmware can't tell that the lamp is really lit so it turns off the power thinking the lamp didn't fire. All these false starts may be a result of a problem getting reliable data fed back to the micro.

All just pure speculation of course.

Yo

Any idea if theyve fixed the firing up problem, are newer ones any better ?

THanks

John

Yo

Any idea if theyve fixed the firing up problem, are newer ones any better ?

I'd like to know the same thing.

Yo, my third one doesn't have any firing problems. The problems with my other two (that were returned) are discussed in this thread (somewhere).

Well today is the last day of the $400 rebate. I found the 7100 for a really smokin price especially after the rebate. I'm really wanting a 720P projector. Should I jump on this or is it too problematic to deal with? I probably won't be getting a HDA1 for the next year or so but I do have a Bravo D1 that I would use to upconvert over DVI and a HD dishnetwork Receiver that I would be connecting through component, at least for now. Does anyone think Optoma will have the bugs worked out on this anytime soon?