Well, it may detect a difference, and if it can't then Gefen switchers won't do TrueHD or DD+...all I know is none of my Gefen switchers or splitters will pass DD+ correctly...only left and right front channels and sub...NO CENTER CHANNEL OR SURROUNDS...

To be honest you confuse me a little bit because here you say "no TrueHD" and now you go back to only " DD+" does not work.
Do you have any prove like email excahnge withe Gefen I can use to talk to them ?? Thx

Sky

Hello, what chuckken says about the Gefen switchers is true because the same thing happened to me. I sent my switchers back to Gefen but they said it would take awhile before they would have a chip fix, so they asked me if I wanted my money back and I said yes. I have purchased ALOT of stuff from Gefen over the years, they said normally after 60 days they will not refund. So I said, fine! send me back a switcher that will pass Dolby Plus and I will be happy. Well, guess what? They reluctently complied to crediting back my account.

Jeff


I don't get it ?? Why does Gefen not admit that the have a problem ?? ??

Looks like its going back to Gefen before I open the box...

The problem as I keep saying is with DD+...I don't know about TrueHD...

It is linear PCM over HDMI.

DD+ or TrueHD will not matter, in fact it could even be linear PCM on the disc.

Your problem with Gefen seems to be with audio (as linear PCM) transferred over HDMI. Could very well be. It is just bothersome to keep hearing you say DD+ when the DD+ decode to linear PCM has already taken place in the Toshiba player.

Bob

To be honest you confuse me a little bit because here you say "no TrueHD" and now you go back to only " DD+" does not work.
Do you have any prove like email excahnge withe Gefen I can use to talk to them ?? Thx

Sky

At the time TrueHD was not available. After trying everything to get the DD+ to work, I decided to press for my money back and use the $ toward the 84 Pioneer receiver. I assumed that if DD+ didn't work, then TrueHD probably wouldn't either.
Talk to Chris at Gefen and tell him to be honest and ask him about Chuck from Atlanta who does Home theater installs. and then ask him if he refunded my money for the HDMI switchers after the chip upgrade didn't help... ;)

It is linear PCM over HDMI.

DD+ or TrueHD will not matter, in fact it could even be linear PCM on the disc.

Your problem with Gefen seems to be with audio (as linear PCM) transferred over HDMI. Could very well be. It is just bothersome to keep hearing you say DD+ when the DD+ decode to linear PCM has already taken place in the Toshiba player.

Bob

Okay...forgive me. The Gefen switchers will not pass PCM audio correctly...there!...are you happy!... :)

SKYCHICKEN...

Here is my RMA# for the 442 switcher... :D See what they say now!... :) Getting them to refund was very tough, but I kept calling every day until it happened. I will never buy anything from them again.

Subject: Re: Package received by Gefen Inc.
To: gsinfo@gefen.com

You received this RMA package back on the 1st of the month...Please credit to my account. Thank you Chuck.

gsinfo@gefen.com wrote: RMA# JW7240613
Received on 08/01/2006

Gefen Inc. assumes no responsibility for packages sent without detailed tracking information or packages sent without a LEGIBLE RMA number visible on the outside of the package. Gefen Inc. reserves the right to refuse packages sent without an RMA number.

I guess you can't read...My bet was that it won't pass DD+ correctly (not TrueHD). Try DD+ and see what happens, if it works then I will buy a monoprice switcher...


You still lose the bet. But I'll give you my winnings and you can spend the money on a Monoprice switch. You will be a happy camper.

Why not create a new thread about the gefen HDMI switcher not passing PCM properly? Since this has nothing to do with the 2.0 update (as it applys to DD+ also)

All I'm saying is that 1.5Mbps DTS is capable of excellent sound quality. I'm definitely not suggesting it is just as good as a lossless format -- just that it is very good.

Given a choice between the analog output and S/PDIF, the analog is likely preferable if you know a down-conversion will be necessary to convert the track to an S/PDIF compatible signal (1.5Mbps DTS). If no down-conversion is necessary, then they are likely to be similar.

The actual listening results will depend on both the individual track, and the performance of the decoding hardware. I wouldn't expect there to be any advantage in switching back and forth between analog and S/PDIF -- so just use whatever sounds best to you. If no audible difference, then the 5.1 analog inputs could be used for something else (SACD/DVD-A maybe?).

-- Trevor

PS. As someone mentioned above, any rear center channel decoding provided via S/PDIF in your receiver would be bypassed using the analog outputs. That could be a reason to choose digital output over analog for some people. You mentioned your receiver is 5.1, so that probably isn't a consideration for you.
I think some folks are mistaking the choice as being between DTS vs. TruHD, instead of being between HDMI/Analog vs. SPDIF Optical/coax.

Whereas TruHD sounds way better than DD+ and low-bitrate DTS, the question is whether you can hear this difference when using SPDIF optical/coax connections.

I would say yes - based on my listening.

DTS at 1.5 megabits (which the Toshiba uses for "recoding" the audio to be able to fit over SPDIF) offers more audio bandwidth than the typical DD+ and DTS soundtracks on the HD DVD discs.

The superior audio of the TruHD 5.1 tracks are discernable over the DTS-recoded SPDIF outputs. Analog and HDMI is still preferable, of course. But always choose the best quality source available.

What do you mean by POTO?...I have the exact same receiver and very good speakers and I can tell no difference switching between DD+ and TrueHD.
POTO (Phantom of the Opera, as Mark pointed out) is an easy test to see if you system can resolve the difference.

It has a very significant difference between the TruHD tracks and the rest. If anyone can't hear the TruHD difference with POTO, then they shouldn't waste time on anyother titles until they've spent a little time on the audio side of their setup.

FWIW - I hear a huge diference. I am ECSTATIC with 2.0 and the 5.1 TruHD!

Bah! Still no 2.0 update available at the RCA web-site as of midnight Monday night.

Bah! Still no 2.0 update available at the RCA web-site as of midnight Monday night.


With the obvious mixed bag of results we're getting, even around here, I honestly wouldn't be in any super hurry to get download it.

According to this thread (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=714927) (notice how different the results are from the 1.4 *private* poll ;)), it appears that the 2.0 firmware upgrade is going very well...I know it has for me...only problem I'm now having is with my neighbor's XA1...I can't get it to upgrade to 2.0.

it starts the process, proceeds to at least 30-40% and then just shuts down...when restart it is still at 1.4/1.09/2.0R ... i've done it a number of times and for some reason it won't upgrade this XA1...will have to see if the official disc will work.

only problem I'm now having is with my neighbor's XA1...I can't get it to upgrade to 2.0.

it starts the process, proceeds to at least 30-40% and then just shuts down...when restart it is still at 1.4/1.09/2.0R ... i've done it a number of times and for some reason it won't upgrade this XA1...will have to see if the official disc will work.


Very interesting, please let us know if it works out with the official disc.

hi there,

i has the HD-AX1 and has the 1.4 firmware and working fine,but i am very afraid to update the firmware update 2.0 and if update of the new software and my HD-AX1 stop working what shall i do?

i live in malta (europe) out side USA when i buy it from US they tell that if i take it out from US there no guarantee

can you help please!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

dagostino :confused: :confused:

I haven't updated my player yet. I normally go through the ethernet connection but thought I would go through the disc from Tosh this time.

I was wondering about the inability to go back to earlier firmware versions and still be able to play HD DVDs. Was this a mistake with the upgrade or was this planned by Tosh? And if it was planned why would they do it?

hi there,

i has the HD-AX1 and has the 1.4 firmware and working fine,but i am very afraid to update the firmware update 2.0 and if update of the new software and my HD-AX1 stop working what shall i do?

i live in malta (europe) out side USA when i buy it from US they tell that if i take it out from US there no guarantee

can you help please!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

dagostino :confused: :confused:

If I were you, I would not upgrade if 1.4 works fine. Upgrades have typically 1-5% failure rates...with a regular PC it isn't obvious however, with HD DVD or AV stuff even the smallest glitch is painful.

hi there,

i has the HD-AX1 and has the 1.4 firmware and working fine,but i am very afraid to update the firmware update 2.0 and if update of the new software and my HD-AX1 stop working what shall i do?

i live in malta (europe) out side USA when i buy it from US they tell that if i take it out from US there no guarantee

can you help please!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

dagostino :confused: :confused:

What do you expect us to tell you that's going to let you make a decision? It's your player, if you feel that Dolby True is worth having or if you need the better error correction capabilities for HD-DVD (rental discs, etc) then yes you should upgrade. The wise thing to do would be to burn the new firmware to CD at a low speed and then have your player hooked up to UPS battery so that there's no chance of power interruption while you are upgrading it.

Seriously, the number of people who have had problems is very tiny, but if there's no benefit for you of the 2.0 upgrade then why would you agonize over it?

Grow a pair, be a big boy and make a decision. :D

RD A1 Toshiba Recorder Firmware Update (http://www3.toshiba.co.jp/hdd-dvd/support/info/rd_a1/more_info.html)

Watch Impress (http://www.watch.impress.co.jp/av/docs/20060829/toshiba.htm)

...Grow a pair, be a big boy and make a decision. :D

Boy, aren't we the Alpha-Male of the forum;)!!! Did you type that on your PDA from the gym?:D

RD A1 Toshiba Recorder Firmware Update (http://www3.toshiba.co.jp/hdd-dvd/support/info/rd_a1/more_info.html)

Watch Impress (http://www.watch.impress.co.jp/av/docs/20060829/toshiba.htm)

OK, how about in English?

OK, how about in English?

http://babelfish.altavista.com/

For the non Japanese Speaking

HD DVD Format Blog (http://hddvdformat.blogspot.com/2006/08/toshiba-japan-updates-rd-a1-firmware.html)

Do we have an actual link to the 2.0 upgrade (every time I search I come to a dead end) or will we have to wait for Toshiba to send out the discs?

POTO (Phantom of the Opera, as Mark pointed out) is an easy test to see if you system can resolve the difference.

It has a very significant difference between the TruHD tracks and the rest. If anyone can't hear the TruHD difference with POTO, then they shouldn't waste time on anyother titles until they've spent a little time on the audio side of their setup.

FWIW - I hear a huge diference. I am ECSTATIC with 2.0 and the 5.1 TruHD!

I agree. POTO sounds more robust and enveloping with TrueHD. Actually, due to the way TrueHD sounds, I ordered Perfect Storm online last night just for that reason, something I wasn't going to do initially due to various reviews, but my Klipsch speakers stated plainly: More TrueHD! ;)

Ok, well for anyone who was wondering (and I was one), I found a link to the upgrade on rapidshare.de. Not sure if it's legit (hence why I'm downloading it on my work computer), let me know if it's not...

http://rapidshare.de/files/30453167/2.0firmware.nrg.html

Do we have an actual link to the 2.0 upgrade (every time I search I come to a dead end) or will we have to wait for Toshiba to send out the discs?

One of the available ones:
www.1080x1920.net - Requires registration (free), there are also utilities for burning CD Image, if you need those and some other interesting stuff,

Kris

With the obvious mixed bag of results we're getting, even around here, I honestly wouldn't be in any super hurry to get download it.

I would say do what you can to get it!! Dolby TrueHD sounds great and is a BIG step up from the DTS re-encode and a noticeable step up from DD+. I am not the only one that feels this way, heres a sample from High-Def Digest.

The Audio: Rating the Sound

I first reviewed 'Training Day' on HD DVD back in May 2006, and though I gave the disc's Dolby Digital-Plus track high marks, it wasn't without a moment of hesitation. Because as good as sounded, it was hard to be unequivocal in my praise knowing that there was also a Dolby TrueHD soundtrack encoded on the disc that early adopters couldn't yet gain access to since the first-gen Toshiba HD-A1 players had yet to support the format. But now that TrueHD is finally here

Quite frankly, I don't think anyone expected that Dolby TrueHD would necessarily sound like a completely new experience, but instead be more akin to the upgrades we've have heard in the past between Dolby Digital and DTS, or Dolby Digital and Dolby Digital-Plus. But based just on 'Training Day,' I would go a little farther and say that at times, Dolby TrueHD delivered such a significant upgrade that I can't imagine choosing any other option if a Dolby TrueHD track was included on a disc.


full review: http://hddvd.highdefdigest.com/trainingday.html

Just an FYI.

Last night I performed the upgrade via the NRG download, burn an iso, and then perform the upgarde.

Everything went fine but after the "upgrade" process my hdmi connection is 100% dysfunctional.

At least before the upgrade I got 10 or 15 minutes of viewing before the hdmi connection lost it's mind. Now it won't even negotiate a connection (it worked for a bit then lost sync and wouldn't renegotiate the connection).

Equipment:
HD-A1
Outlaw 990 Pre/Pro with DVI switching ability (hdmi to DVI connectors..)
Panasonic AE-900 Projector

I've tried running the hdmi through the pre/pro and tried direct connecting it to the projector. I spent two hours trying to do power on/off's in various sequences trying to get an hdmi handshake (again, with and without the pre/pro doing switching). No Joy.

Once again, thanks Toshiba! I've got a nice $500 boat anchor.

Are the hdmi standards THAT hard to interpret and implement???? Class action suite (hdmi consortium!) anyone???

Good news for Toshiba - the 720p picture is DEFINITELY better. The jagged edge/lines seem to have been smoothed about 90%! Oh, and the menus are a great deal quicker.

Sorry if this post seems harsh. I'm simply in dismay. Toshiba has had plenty of time to get these kinks worked out.

You still lose the bet. But I'll give you my winnings and you can spend the money on a Monoprice switch. You will be a happy camper.

Ok, we will now find out if you are right...(I just ordered a monoprice switcher)...BTW, I found out that it's the firmware inside the Gefen switchers that won't allow them to pass PCM properly...(the firmware is not compatible with the Toshiba player) apparantly the cheaper build of the monoprice somehow enables it to pass toshibas PCM...There is another cheaper brand switcher that uses that same firmware as the monoprice...it is called "ATLONA" brand found here...

http://www.lenexpo-electronics.com/product.php?productid=16586&cat=300&page=1

Just an FYI.

Last night I performed the upgrade via the NRG download, burn an iso, and then perform the upgarde.

Everything went fine but after the "upgrade" process my hdmi connection is 100% dysfunctional.

At least before the upgrade I got 10 or 15 minutes of viewing before the hdmi connection lost it's mind. Now it won't even negotiate a connection (it worked for a bit then lost sync and wouldn't renegotiate the connection).

Equipment:
HD-A1
Outlaw 990 Pre/Pro with DVI switching ability (hdmi to DVI connectors..)
Panasonic AE-900 Projector

I've tried running the hdmi through the pre/pro and tried direct connecting it to the projector. I spent two hours trying to do power on/off's in various sequences trying to get an hdmi handshake (again, with and without the pre/pro doing switching). No Joy.

Once again, thanks Toshiba! I've got a nice $500 boat anchor.

Are the hdmi standards THAT hard to interpret and implement???? Class action suite (hdmi consortium!) anyone???

Good news for Toshiba - the 720p picture is DEFINITELY better. The jagged edge/lines seem to have been smoothed about 90%! Oh, and the menus are a great deal quicker.

Sorry if this post seems harsh. I'm simply in dismay. Toshiba has had plenty of time to get these kinks worked out.

It is a bit harsh but then again i haven't had any problems with the HD-A1 at all, upgrades have been smooth, True HD sounds great ! I do have a Toshiba DLP so i guess i wouldn't have a HDMI issue. I will say a lot of issues with player are sometimes operator error ;) I was upset when my HD A1 wouldn't play DL DVD+Rs
but after some trouble shooting i found out that i was burning the DL DVDrs at 16x
while the disks were only rated up to 2.4x , I lowered the speed on Nero and now
everything is great! none of this helps you , sorry i was starting to ramble :(

does the 2.0 fw update fix the slow start up issue? :confused:
also, is there any benefit with the new update for those of us who use component out?

Why not create a new thread about the gefen HDMI switcher not passing PCM properly? Since this has nothing to do with the 2.0 update (as it applys to DD+ also)

There is a recent thread about these gefen switches.

I agree with you that perhaps the discussion could move to here:
Gefen HDMI Switchers: No DD+
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=8255884&&#post8255884

does the 2.0 fw update fix the slow start up issue? :confused:
also, is there any benefit with the new update for those of us who use component out?

This Thread indicates that there is a PQ improvement over component.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=8288765&&#post8288765

I posted this in another thread but I found it to be significant.

Try this:
Leave the player on with the door open so the HDDVD logo is displayed on your TV set.
Then look real carefully at the TM (trademark) logo underneath the HDDVD logo.
Cycle through the 3 resolutions.


On my 50" LG Plasma which is 1366x768P (something like that) the TM is barely readable on the 720P setting yet it is Crystal Clear on the 1080I setting.
No contest !!

Also the half circles next to TM were a bit jaggy on 720P/480i setting

I never tried this before with version 1.4 but with version 2.0, the 720P setting, at least on my display device, is much worse.

EDIT: THis is with HDMI. I am going to play with component another night and post my results.

I am sticking with the 1080i setting.

is there anywhere else to download the 2.0fw update other than off the 1080x1920.net site?

is there anywhere else to download the 2.0fw update other than off the 1080x1920.net site?

look back at about page 31, I think for a link to a rapidshare download. Or, just do a search on this thread for "rapidshare".

I would guess the logo is added after the scaling/de-interlacing, so I really wouldn't put too much worry into that. Movies are the thing.
I would like to know if I should let the tosh do the 720p conversion, or my iScan HD+ or my BenQ 7700 projector, and if I should go component or HDMI->DVI to the iScan.
Warren.

I am using the 6 channel analog out since I don't have an HDMI receiver.

I am wondering if others have this same effect :
On the HDDVD "Constantine", if I toggle between TRUEHD and DD+, the DD+ is MUCH louder.

I mean MUCH louder.

Do others notice this?

I think the TRUHD sounds better but when you have to change the volume knob (remotelty of course) to have the same level it is hard to do a good A/B test.

Course as I write this in another room I just went and answered the kock at the door and there was no one there - it was coming from my TV room from a scene in Constantine in TRUEHD :)


We are going to need a Video Essentials or AVIA in HDDVD !!

I would guess the logo is added after the scaling/de-interlacing, so I really wouldn't put too much worry into that. Movies are the thing.
I would like to know if I should let the tosh do the 720p conversion, or my iScan HD+ or my BenQ 7700 projector, and if I should go component or HDMI->DVI to the iScan.
Warren.

Valid point.
But did you try it and see the effect on the quality of the letters in the TM logo?

I guess I will need to actually watch the film in the 2 modes.
That is going to be a pain since the player goes back to the beginning when you change resolutions.

Testing the PQ via HDMI or Component will be simple because I have both outputs connected to my TV

Thanks for the reply. I was beginning to think I have been talking to myself for the past hour in here.

Joe

I haven't upgraded yet. Waiting for everyone else's results. :)
Sounds like enough reason to upgrade for me though. Maybe tonight.
Warren.

Joe Q, you are comparing 720p output being upconverted to your 768p display against 1080i being deinterlaced to your 768p display. Last time I checked 768p has more lines than 720p. Of course the 1080i output will benefit more than the 720p output. The people who are raving about the improved 720p output are those who own a 720p display.

After upgrading to 2.0 I have been watching movies with no problems for 3 days straight...The 720P fix alone was worth the upgrade...I didn;t think the picture could get better than it was with 1080i...I have the Panasonic PTAE900U and the 720P output is now incredible!...I have HDMI reciever and can't tell a big difference using TrueHD over DD+ but still glad to have it...I am one happy camper!... :cool:

After upgrading to 2.0 I have been watching movies with no problems for 3 days straight...The 720P fix alone was worth the upgrade...I didn;t think the picture could get better than it was with 1080i...I have the Panasonic PTAE900U and the 720P output is now incredible!...I have HDMI reciever and can't tell a big difference using TrueHD over DD+ but still glad to have it...I am one happy camper!... :cool:

I have the 700 (wish I had the 900, but will wait for 1080). I do notice better audio on TrueHD, but then again I just upgraded my speakers so that may have helped as well. There does come a point in both audio and video where smaller improvements are harder to notice (and in some cases, justify)

Class action suite (hdmi consortium!) anyone???


I agree there could be some merit to a class action suit.

It only takes three of us and I know rwestley has already
suggested it.

If none of you know a good law firm for this - I can put
some effort into finding one.

Yes, there is a reason. Dolby Lab states that the ultimate in listening to TrueHD is accomplished through HDMI...The analog approach is not nearly as good. I know people who are master TV techs that are not happy with the results they have gotten going out the HD-DVD players analog outs to their primative pre-amp/amp setups...They come over my house and their mouths drop when they listen to my measly $1000.00 Pioneer Elite receiver and my mid-end $3500.00 Axiom speakers... HDMI is the Future of digital surround sound. Analog is caveman. It's outdated and inferior to the new technology simple as that... :)

I don't understand. Either way you're talking analog, the only obvious difference is where the conversion is performed -- at the player or at the receiver. Given the player is closest to the original bit clock, it actually has the best opportunity to perform the best (which doesn't mean it does, of course).

This comes back to the standard and age old question of where is the better conversion performed (combined with the issue of possible quality losses passing through the additional analog interconnects and 5.1 channel inputs -- once again, not inherently telling).

-- Trevor

PS. Sorry, but Dolby advertising copy carries zero weight with me.

I think some folks are mistaking the choice as being between DTS vs. TruHD, instead of being between HDMI/Analog vs. SPDIF Optical/coax.

Whereas TruHD sounds way better than DD+ and low-bitrate DTS, the question is whether you can hear this difference when using SPDIF optical/coax connections.

I would say yes - based on my listening.

DTS at 1.5 megabits (which the Toshiba uses for "recoding" the audio to be able to fit over SPDIF) offers more audio bandwidth than the typical DD+ and DTS soundtracks on the HD DVD discs.

The superior audio of the TruHD 5.1 tracks are discernable over the DTS-recoded SPDIF outputs. Analog and HDMI is still preferable, of course. But always choose the best quality source available.

Thanks for pointing out the HDMI. I have an unfortunate tendency to forget about that option. :)

-- Trevor

Just an FYI.

Last night I performed the upgrade via the NRG download, burn an iso, and then perform the upgarde.

Everything went fine but after the "upgrade" process my hdmi connection is 100% dysfunctional.

At least before the upgrade I got 10 or 15 minutes of viewing before the hdmi connection lost it's mind. Now it won't even negotiate a connection (it worked for a bit then lost sync and wouldn't renegotiate the connection).

Equipment:
HD-A1
Outlaw 990 Pre/Pro with DVI switching ability (hdmi to DVI connectors..)
Panasonic AE-900 Projector

I've tried running the hdmi through the pre/pro and tried direct connecting it to the projector. I spent two hours trying to do power on/off's in various sequences trying to get an hdmi handshake (again, with and without the pre/pro doing switching). No Joy.

Once again, thanks Toshiba! I've got a nice $500 boat anchor.

Are the hdmi standards THAT hard to interpret and implement???? Class action suite (hdmi consortium!) anyone???

Good news for Toshiba - the 720p picture is DEFINITELY better. The jagged edge/lines seem to have been smoothed about 90%! Oh, and the menus are a great deal quicker.

Sorry if this post seems harsh. I'm simply in dismay. Toshiba has had plenty of time to get these kinks worked out.

You have my sympathy on the HDMI->DVI-D connection woes. I just made some modifications to my RCA video feeds (adding component and split DVI-D->RGBHV transcoder) and it must have taken me near ten hours to finally coax everything into working properly. Was ready to return the player at least twice. (When I tried substituting my LG DVB-418 DVD player, it worked just fine. )

That RCA/Toshiba HDMI interface has some real problems that other companies seem to have somehow avoided. (And that's ignoring the colorspace issues.)

-- Trevor

Just got the Toshiba and did the ethernet upgrade to 2.0 before checking it out.

Impressions:

We watched "Unforgiven" and Million Dollar Baby" last night, as well as some select scenes from "Blazing Saddles." Even though these Eastwood movies are dark, the detail came through and the velvety-smooth blacks were a sight to behold! "I'm Tired," the Lili Von Schtup song in "Blazing Saddles," was positively dripping with color and detail! Just amazing. Then we switched to High Def TV, our heretofore state-of-the-art picture source. Wow. DirecTV was an obvious step-down in PQ! (LCD pj on a 103' screen")

We found the 1080i slightly sharper than the 720p output.

Ethernet download went off without a hitch. The sound quality to me is superior to our Denon DVD-2910 (sweeter/smoother) but the PQ of the one SD DVD we viewed--"Allison Krauss in Concert"--was inferior to the Denon.

Interestingly the surrounds don't seem as active as we've been used to--in the HD-DVD films mentioned above the sound was more front speaker-oriented.

We're SOLD!!!!!!!! :D :D :D

When doing this ethernet upgrade, do you need to have the player hooked up to your TV?

Also I download the version from rapidshare site, since it is a .nrg file, do I have to use nero to burn it to the cd? Can I use easy CD creator from Roxio to do it?

Thanks

Ethernet upgrade requires an external monitor to be hooked to the player--we used a 13" production monitor since our nearest computer was a good distance away from the home theater.

well, i initialized the player but the firmware upgrade via network is still not working...not sure what the problem could be as it has upgraded in the past without issue.

if it weren't my neighbor's machine i would probably download the unofficial copy and try via cd, but i'll wait for the disc to come from toshiba...in the past that has taken some time beyond the network availability :(

i'll try on other thing and that is to do a wired connection to the internet vs. the wireless linksys bridge that has worked flwlessly thus far but you never know and i don't give that easily :D

well, i initialized the player but the firmware upgrade via network is still not working...not sure what the problem could be as it has upgraded in the past without issue.



Do you see the Toshiba listed in the DHCP client list in your Router?
Can you Ping it?

Note the second entry in the enclosed snapshot. That is the Toshiba.

Joe

I finally managed to stretch my DSL modem and wireless router into the living room(very long phone cord, since there is no phone jack in the living room). I was then able to hook up my HD player to the wireless router on one of the network ports it had. I enabled DHCP, but couldn't get connected until I realized I forgot to turn on the DNS. After that I had no problems getting 2.0 downloaded. I think it took about a half an hour once it started. Afterwards I had no problems when it rebooted(no Disc was in the tray).

I did watch a SD disc after the upgrade and it seemed to work ok. I'm waiting to get my Premium analog cables in from monoprice before I watch an HD movie. I want to hear TrueHD first. :D It is a good thing I like Constantine a lot. I always seem to use that movie to demo it off for friends, now I get to give myself the demo for audio.

Do you see the Toshiba listed in the DHCP client list in your Router?
Can you Ping it?

Note the second entry in the enclosed snapshot. That is the Toshiba.

Joe

joe, i don't use dhcp but the tosh is definitely communicating fine up until some point; i've witnessed the upgrade proceed to 30% (maybe 40%...couldn't bear to stare at the display :) ).

the linksys wireless bridge has given me trouble in the past when connected to my HTPC so i was just surmising that maybe it is acting up. i'll try hardwiring it and if that doesn't work just wait for the cd in the mail.

the linksys wireless bridge has given me trouble in the past when connected to my HTPC so i was just surmising that maybe it is acting up. i'll try hardwiring it and if that doesn't work just wait for the cd in the mail.

All 802.11 Wireless Base Stations are suspectable to 2.4 GHz Interference from in-home cordless phones. Some are better than others.

My Recommendation -- USE Copper Wire and Better YET - Do the Download and BURN the CD. It is probably 100 times faster and SAFER.

Just installed 2.0 on my RCA. Like all other versions, this update went without a hitch. I can say with certainty that for me, bootup times have not improved at all over 1.2! It still takes a full 90 seconds from power on until you start getting any data at all off the DVD and that's with the DVD already in the unit. With the power off, just getting the disc to eject by pressing the open tray button (with the power off) takes over a minute. A minute to just get the tray open? That still seems ridiculous to me. They really need to let the tray open immediately and I thought for sure they'd do better in a firmware labeled 2.0.

After owning this thing all summer, I can say it is really more of a hassle than it's worth. A minute standing there waiting just to get the tray open, another minute and a half to have it access the DVD, and for what? So that 1 out of every 100 movies we watch I can see in HD? To me, it isn't worth the excessive startup delays. Yet.

Mike

I am using the 6 channel analog out since I don't have an HDMI receiver.

I am wondering if others have this same effect :
On the HDDVD "Constantine", if I toggle between TRUEHD and DD+, the DD+ is MUCH louder.

I mean MUCH louder.

Do others notice this?

I think the TRUHD sounds better but when you have to change the volume knob (remotelty of course) to have the same level it is hard to do a good A/B test.

Course as I write this in another room I just went and answered the kock at the door and there was no one there - it was coming from my TV room from a scene in Constantine in TRUEHD :)


We are going to need a Video Essentials or AVIA in HDDVD !!

For anyone else having this problem when listening to True HD, make sure your dynamic range and dialog settings are set to off. You can find them in the audio menu under setup. This should make everything sound completely different. :)

After owning this thing all summer, I can say it is really more of a hassle than it's worth.
Mike

I'll be happy to buy it from you:)

Can someone mail me the .nrg file at vckadath@gmail.com? I tried downloading the stupidthing off the fileshare and the volume I was saving to is full, gotta wait 51 minutes to download it again grrrr

Never mind )

Recently purchased the HD-A1 and got it delivered at work. Connected to the corporate network; set the DHCP/DNS to auto and successfully performed the 2.0 FW update. My co-worker was even able to ping the hda1 from another office. Tried connecting it through the browser but got message 'Internet Explorer cannot display the webpage'. Web interface menu would be nice. :D

I finally managed to stretch my DSL modem and wireless router into the living room(very long phone cord, since there is no phone jack in the living room). .

You can also just get a long ethernet cable and temporarily connect the A1 to the router while you do the update. Either way I guess but that was easier for me as my router is on a different floor and I didn't want to mess with disconnecting everything to move it.

You can also just get a long ethernet cable and temporarily connect the A1 to the router while you do the update. Either way I guess but that was easier for me as my router is on a different floor and I didn't want to mess with disconnecting everything to move it.
Where I have my router and where my HD DVD player I would need about a 40 foot cable or there abouts. It wasn't to hard doing it the way I did though. So I'll just do that from now on I guess.

Ok my Premium RCA audio cables came in today. I got it all hooked up and now I am alittle shaky on what the settings should be. I have a Denon 1803 reciever and have digital and Analog out from the HD player to the reciever. I thought we needed it turned to PCM to get TrueHD? I did it that way and I would get no Sub effects on Constantine when I Play the trueHD. I double checked the connections and everything looks like it is hooked up the way it is. I also did a audio test through the HD player and Center, L Front, R, Front were indpendent of each other, but the back Surrounds would both come on at the same time for R Surrond and Left Surround which makes no sense.

Just for kicks I turned the Digital SPDF to Bitstream and restarted the movie. I selected TrueHD. After doing that I could here the Sub again and everything sounded like I should. I checked the display and it said it was playing TrueHD. Is this the correct way of doing it? Or is it just playing the DTS track(Reciever show this) which wold be there if it was Bitstream.

thanks,

Jason

Arutha -

You can only playback TrueHD through the 6 channel ANALOG OUTS or HDMI. The PCM and bitstream settings in the Toshiba are for the DIGITAL OUT. Make sure that you have your Receiever set to the 6 channel ANALOG INPUT. You are likely listening to the downmixed DTS signal through the digital input right now.

- Tim

Arutha -

You can only playback TrueHD through the 6 channel ANALOG OUTS or HDMI. The PCM and bitstream settings in the Toshiba are for the DIGITAL OUT. Make sure that you have your Receiever set to the 6 channel ANALOG INPUT. You are likely listening to the downmixed DTS signal through the digital input right now.

- Tim
My reciever will only goto 5 channel. I know there is a 6 channel, but I can not get it advanced right! :mad:

My reciever will only goto 5 channel. I know there is a 6 channel, but I can not get it advanced right! :mad:
I don't know if this will help any but on my Denon 2805 the Multichannel analog inputs are called the 'EXT IN' jacks . These are the inputs to use & 'EXT IN' & what you would set the receiver to ( Assuming of course Denon uses the same terminology with your receiver )

My reciever will only goto 5 channel. I know there is a 6 channel, but I can not get it advanced right! :mad:

5 channels plus the sub is 6 channels.

Ok another question. When I tried the test tone through the HD player I was not getting any speration between the R surround and L Surround speakers at all. If I tested RS both(LS) speakers will turn on. If I tested LS both(RS) would also come on. Are they not supposed to be independent of each other? I didn't think they were suppose to play at the same time.

Where I have my router and where my HD DVD player I would need about a 40 foot cable or there abouts. It wasn't to hard doing it the way I did though. So I'll just do that from now on I guess.

I used a 100 footer. :)

Just didn't want to mess with moving my router.

Ok another question. When I tried the test tone through the HD player I was not getting any speration between the R surround and L Surround speakers at all. If I tested RS both(LS) speakers will turn on. If I tested LS both(RS) would also come on. Are they not supposed to be independent of each other? I didn't think they were suppose to play at the same time.
Is your receiver in Pro logic II mode?

Ok another question. When I tried the test tone through the HD player I was not getting any speration between the R surround and L Surround speakers at all. If I tested RS both(LS) speakers will turn on. If I tested LS both(RS) would also come on. Are they not supposed to be independent of each other? I didn't think they were suppose to play at the same time.

The test tones generated by the A1 have been notoriously inaccurate. Use test tones from another source such as AVIA or THX optimizer. If those are screwy, then you need to double check your connections. Also, as Alex said, it may be that you are in prologic mode.

Ok another question. When I tried the test tone through the HD player I was not getting any speration between the R surround and L Surround speakers at all. If I tested RS both(LS) speakers will turn on. If I tested LS both(RS) would also come on. Are they not supposed to be independent of each other? I didn't think they were suppose to play at the same time.
I have to agree with what previous posters have been saying . I doesn't appear that your receiver is switched to the analog inputs . Whatever those inputs are called, there should be a cooresponding named mode on your receiver . If you are using the players test tones you are sending analog signals to your receiver . It sounds like those tones are also going through your digital out connection & this is the signal the speakers are getting which could explain the wacky channel test tones you are getting . In other words the digital processor in the receiver is trying to assign channel output destinations without any information , so you are basically hearing a PRO Logic mono because the channels are discrete .

Thanks for the info. When I get home I'll look at all over again and give it a test.

I can confirm that the Tosh internal test tones do not work properly with digital connections - no matter what my receiver was set to I got wacky results with those test tones. I've never had it hooked up via analog so can't speak to that.

Can you guys please tell me how you get these test tones?
My HDA1 is still on FW 1.3, maybe it's only available on 1.4 and superior?

Cheers!

I'm bummed. I just installed 2.0 via the internet last night...I was hoping it would fix the HDMI error 1 problem when trying to connect to my Sanyo Z2 projector via HDMI to DVI but no such luck. It doesn't work at all :(

This is kind of an embarrassment, don't you think, since Sanyo is the only company other than Toshiba on the consumer electronic side that says its behind HD DVD, but it doesn't work with their gear!?!?!?

Is there any hope of this working in the future?

BTW - my Sanyo Z2 was sent back to Sanyo in July for a supposed HDCP hardware/firmware upgrade...but still no joy with 2.0 (nor 1.4)

You're bummed...I can't get my HD-A1 to connect via HDMI with my Toshiba DLP.

Arutha -

You can only playback TrueHD through the 6 channel ANALOG OUTS or HDMI. The PCM and bitstream settings in the Toshiba are for the DIGITAL OUT. Make sure that you have your Receiever set to the 6 channel ANALOG INPUT. You are likely listening to the downmixed DTS signal through the digital input right now.

- Tim

does the analog out for TrueHD playback make a huge surround sound difference compared to using the digital out with DTS playback? why? :confused:

The digital out has pretty low bandwidth, so it is kinda like listening to an mp3 vs the origional cd.

does the analog out for TrueHD playback make a huge surround sound difference compared to using the digital out with DTS playback? why? :confused:

TrueHD is a losses audio compression scheme that handily outdoes standard DTS in tech specs, but can you hear the difference? Its debatable. Some hear a big difference, some don't. Some of it depends on the resolving power of your HT system, which includes your room acoustics.

As the price of entry is only the cost of six RCA cables, and some set-up time, it's surely worth a try. Just make sure that you boost the subwoofer input by about 10 dB on your Receiver if you choose to go the 6 channel analog route. There is a known issue with the sub out on the Toshiba.

does the analog out for TrueHD playback make a huge surround sound difference compared to using the digital out with DTS playback? why? :confused:

It should make a difference, but not necessarily a BIG difference. 1.5Mbps DTS sounds pretty darned good.

-- Trevor

You're bummed...I can't get my HD-A1 to connect via HDMI with my Toshiba DLP.

Please give more detail as to what you have tried so that we may try to help. BTW did you make sure to hit the "Vout" button on the A1 remote to engage the HDMI output?

You're bummed...I can't get my HD-A1 to connect via HDMI with my Toshiba DLP.

Talk about irony. Both of my HD-A1 HDMI connections work perfectly with my SONY Ruby and 60A2000 displays and with a monoprice.com 5x1 switcher too (using firmware v1.4 and now v2.0).

Have you tried a BD player on the Toshiba? :eek: Seriously, call Toshiba up at (800) 319-6684. One would hope that they'd be able to help since it's a total Toshiba solution.

Anyone get an upgrade disc from Toshiba yet?

not yet for me.

Please give more detail as to what you have tried so that we may try to help. BTW did you make sure to hit the "Vout" button on the A1 remote to engage the HDMI output?
I've tried two different HDMI cables. Tried both HDMI inputs on the Toshiba DLP tv. Made sure the Vout was set to HDMI. Tried turning tv on first and last. Tried everything. Note: HDMI doesn't work between my Directv Tivo and Toshiba DLP as well. I get a green intermittent flashing screen on the TV. I've made a call to the local repair center (the tv is under warranty). It's been three weeks and I've still haven't had any resolution to the problem. The component cables work fine, but no upconversion on regular dvd's, plus I have two HDMI ports not being used and an xbox sitting disconnected due to lack of anymore component inputs.

Anyone get an upgrade disc from Toshiba yet?

Discs have been arriving on the East Coast from 10 days to 2 weeks after previous firmware updates were released on the Web.

Anyone received an email from Toshiba stating the discs are being shipped?

I've tried two different HDMI cables. Tried both HDMI inputs on the Toshiba DLP tv. Made sure the Vout was set to HDMI. Tried turning tv on first and last. Tried everything. Note: HDMI doesn't work between my Directv Tivo and Toshiba DLP as well. I get a green intermittent flashing screen on the TV. I've made a call to the local repair center (the tv is under warranty). It's been three weeks and I've still haven't had any resolution to the problem. The component cables work fine, but no upconversion on regular dvd's, plus I have two HDMI ports not being used and an xbox sitting disconnected due to lack of anymore component inputs.


Your HDMI port is fried get it fixed ASAP.

Rob

Ok, I got the TrueHD to work through Analog. Seeing how I misplaced my instructions for the receiver(1803) and never running analog I had to fiddle around with the controller to get it to go. I finally got the receiver to EXT IN and that got the sound to start playing. Now I just need to fine tune the settings and adjust the volume of the speakers since I don't think they are set right. When I played Constantine it seemed like the volume was pretty muffled. The other thing I noticed when Chaz and Constantine were yelling back in forth in the alley was how echoey(is that even a word?) it sounded. I'm going to have to pick up another movie with TrueHD and start comparing.

Now for Standard DVD's how is the best way to play those? Shall I leave my Optical cable and analog cables plugged in and switch back and forth depending if it is HD or SD? One last question do you need analog cables for DD+ or can that go through the Optical cable too?

with that Denon receiver when you have it turned to "ext in" hit the "enter" button on the remote. You can then scroll thru your speakers and raise or lower them for that input only. You'll see the speakers listed on the front of your receiver. Each time you hit enter it will scroll to the next speaker. Raise the subwoofer about 8-10 db's over what your normal setting is. Keep the rest the same. You will still have to turn the volume up more than normal on your receiver, but this will solve the problem of low bass output thru the analogs.

Your HDMI port is fried get it fixed ASAP.

Rob

HD-Tivo's can be problematic on HDMI also...

If you have a Costco in your area they have an inexpensive upconverting DVD player (also Toshiba I believe) that uses HDMI, you could use that as a check... but I think Rob is correct the HDMI inputs on your set sure sound like they are bad... I would use that warranty.

I have just performed firmware upgrade from 1.4 to 2.0. So far I haven't found any difference, good or bad, after the upgrade. It still takes a minute or two to start up, and good 1/2 minute to recognize the disk. HDMI 720p output looks still softer than 1080i output. Just watched several chapters of Chronicles of Riddick. It looks just as good as last time I watched before the upgrade. So much for the anticipation. Maybe my wine will taste better after the firmware upgrade, but I haven't tried yet.

Can you guys please tell me how you get these test tones?
My HDA1 is still on FW 1.3, maybe it's only available on 1.4 and superior?

Cheers!

Anyone please? ;)

Is anyone seeing a 'noisy' 720p image via component out with 2.0 firmware? By noisy I mean a kind of constant flickering which is only noticeable in darker scenes. I use a Crystalio scaler and a Barco CRT projector.

Has Tosh sent out the 2.0 CDs yet?
Just curious.
J

Has Tosh sent out the 2.0 CDs yet?
Just curious.
J

They usually send me an email first letting me know it has been sent. I have not been notified yet.

Tmarques, everyone is saying DON'T use the test tones on the toshiba. Use a dvd with the THX optimizer. I don't know if any of the HD DVD's have that, but you could load the Incredibles DVD and use that.
Warren.

Tmarques, everyone is saying DON'T use the test tones on the toshiba. Use a dvd with the THX optimizer. I don't know if any of the HD DVD's have that, but you could load the Incredibles DVD and use that.
Warren.

Yes, I understood that, thanks. ;)
But my question was, where do you get these test tones, as I haven't seen them. Is it firmware related?

Sorry, I don't know. When someone tells me to stay away from skunks, I stay away from skunks. :)
Warren.

The Test tones can be found in the Setup menu of the HD-A1 under Speaker Settings. You won't find it until after you set the size and distances, on the following page.

Question....I just got the A1 yesterday. Does a menu pop up on the monitor when you get your connection? I physically connected to my wireless router but I'm only getting 'no disk'. There is activity on the router, but no connection. I probably just need to reset my modem, but was wondering if a screen appears on the monitor when a connection is established?

Question....I just got the A1 yesterday. Does a menu pop up on the monitor when you get your connection? I physically connected to my wireless router but I'm only getting 'no disk'. There is activity on the router, but no connection. I probably just need to reset my modem, but was wondering if a screen appears on the monitor when a connection is established?

I just hit the Setup button on the remote. Then go to Maintenance to update the firmware.

Not sure if this was mentioned yet, but I think I may have found why some people are getting "HDMI ERROR" on their HD-A1 displays.

I switched my A1 from my Ruby to my 50"SXRD HD RPTV via HDMI. I had the A1 set to "PCM" for HDMI audio so I could get the Dolby TrueHD on my Denon 5805 (which the HDMI is routed thru when going to my Ruby in the theater).

When I went straight to the 50"HD monitor and tried to play an HD DVD, it gave me the "HDMI ERROR" message on the A1 and stopped playback. I remembered that the Sony 50"SXRD doesn't take Multi-channel PCM in thru HDMI, so I changed it in the A1 to output "DOWN MIXED PCM" and the HD DVD (Sahara) played fine.

So the moral is, if you are getting the HDMI ERROR msg on your A1, check the audio settings of the HDMI output and make sure whatever display you're using can take in that format. If it can't, you'll probably get an HDMI ERROR msg and the title won't play:(

I just hit the Setup button on the remote. Then go to Maintenance to update the firmware.

Thanks. I didn't know the remote opened up like that. I assumed 'setup' was on the menu screen. Thanks.....

Not sure if this was mentioned yet, but I think I may have found why some people are getting "HDMI ERROR" on their displays.

I switched my A1 from my Ruby to my 50"SXRD HD RPTV via HDMI. I had the A1 set to "PCM" for HDMI audio so I could get the Dolby TrueHD on my Denon 5805 (which the HDMI is routed thru when going to my Ruby in the theater).

When I went straight to the 50"HD monitor and tried to play an HD DVD, it gave me the "HDMI ERROR" message on the A1 and stopped playback. I remembered that the Sony 50"SXRD doesn't take Multi-channel PCM in thru HDMI, so I changed it in the A1 to output "DOWN MIXED PCM" and the HD DVD (Sahara) played fine.

So the moral is, if you are getting the HDMI ERROR msg on your A1, check the audio settings of the HDMI output and make sure whatever display you're using can take in that format. If it can't, you'll probably get an HDMI ERROR msg and the title won't play:(

Thanks for the heads up. I'll try upgrading it again and see what happens (maybe it's a good idea to buy the new Sony SXRD? Will they accept LPCM through HDMI? or there is no TV that is compliant to multichannel LPCM yet?)

Yes, they accept 2CH PCM, just not multichannel. I am not sure what the newer SXRDs accept. Mine is the original 2005 model. I can't see why they would need to accept multichannel though. They usually only have 2 internal speakers, but I guess it would be nice to have the TV downmix the signal or maybe extrapolate the HDMI audio out to it's coax or optical digital out.

Not sure if this was mentioned yet, but I think I may have found why some people are getting "HDMI ERROR" on their HD-A1 displays.

I switched my A1 from my Ruby to my 50"SXRD HD RPTV via HDMI. I had the A1 set to "PCM" for HDMI audio so I could get the Dolby TrueHD on my Denon 5805 (which the HDMI is routed thru when going to my Ruby in the theater).

When I went straight to the 50"HD monitor and tried to play an HD DVD, it gave me the "HDMI ERROR" message on the A1 and stopped playback. I remembered that the Sony 50"SXRD doesn't take Multi-channel PCM in thru HDMI, so I changed it in the A1 to output "DOWN MIXED PCM" and the HD DVD (Sahara) played fine.

So the moral is, if you are getting the HDMI ERROR msg on your A1, check the audio settings of the HDMI output and make sure whatever display you're using can take in that format. If it can't, you'll probably get an HDMI ERROR msg and the title won't play:(

Dave, this is very interesting and maybe you should start a separate thread so that it gets noticed.

In my case, I have the Qualia 006 and I always have the speakers set to off so that when an HDMI device communicates with it, it usually knows there is NO audio. But, I also have the HDMI audio option set to auto (I never changed it since my Yamaha RX-Z9 doesn't have hdmi input)...I've never had issues with HDMI errors (other than when you change inputs on the Q thereby breaking the HDMI handshake triggering the HDMI error; I fault the Q for not keeping HDMI active on each of its inputs for this behavior...luckily, the HDMI switching was only used in the beginning when doing A/B comparisons so it isn't an issue any longer for me).

Thanks again for noticing this...first time I've seen this reported but I haven't really tracked all the HDMI error posts.

[EDIT: also, someone may want to notify Toshiba of this behavior since it should easily be something they can account for in firmware]

My Westy 37" 1080p monitor breaks the HDMI when you change inputs too.

Dave, this is very interesting and maybe you should start a separate thread so that it gets noticed.

Done, you can find it HERE (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=8337061#post8337061)

Yes, I understood that, thanks. ;)
But my question was, where do you get these test tones, as I haven't seen them. Is it firmware related?
Test tones on the Toshiba are under AUDIO -> 5.1 setup.

I keep reading posts where folks have said to bump the sub output level up by 10 Db in the setup menu.

A bit puzzled about that because I don't have to and I was wondering if anyone had an idea of why that might be.

Receiver is a Yamaha DSP-A1.
Firmware is 2.0


I am using the Analog inputs as my connection and I had previously calibrated the system with my SACD/DVD-A/DVD player on that same analog input connection. using VE.

I am waiting for a switch that I ordered so in the meantime, I simply swapped out the 'old' DVD player for the Toshiba.

While using the sound level meter, I ran the sound calibration section of Video Essentials and found that all the levels are still correct.
VE has tones for each channel including the SUB.

Any ideas why I have not had to fiddle with the sub output level?

Thanks

OK, apparently something weird is happening with my wireless bridge which had worked flawlessly in the past and now couldn't seem to keep the connection long enough to complete the full 2.0 upgrade...I connected the XA1 directly to a switch and the u/g completed fine...maybe it was a blessing in disguise since the first time i did indeed forget a disc in the drive. that is easy for me to do since i often fall asleep watching movies as i get home around 11pm from the office and don't usually have enough left in me to watch a full 2 hour movie without dozing off...even action packed, bass filled movies :) ... when you're tired your tired...

I'm going to try the HDMI Audio to AUTO myself; not only do I get HDMI errors currently when switching between X360 and this player BUT often the TV is not set to the correct resolution - I see 1/2 the screen. This is fixed by unplugging my Westinghouse 32" for about 3 seconds and plugging it back in. No one's mentioned this over there that I can find, so I thought I'd post here too.

I just completed a V1.4 -> V2.0 upgrade via ethernet. The remote seems "snappier" in the setup menus (maybe it's just me). Also, this week I got a HDMI switcher and installed it between my players and DVI input Fujitsu plasma. With V1.4, if I would switch between players and back to A1, I got "HDMI Error 1" (I think there was a "1", maybe not) and now with V2.0 it works. It "fiddles" a bit, but the output resumes. The other thing that I was mildly disappointed about is that the HDMI switch (5x1 Monoprice) didn't "fool" the A1 about the type of display on the other end. I still get PC levels (no BTB) to my display (with V1.4 and V2.0). However, component works great for me, so no big deal.

larry

I need a lesson as how to burn the downloaded software to a CD. I have a demo version of NERO, I inserted a CD into my burner, I selected the 'Make Data CD', and the resulting CD is not recognized by Toshiba. So what is the proper way to create this CD? Thanks.

I need a lesson as how to burn the downloaded software to a CD. I have a demo version of NERO, I inserted a CD into my burner, I selected the 'Make Data CD', and the resulting CD is not recognized by Toshiba. So what is the proper way to create this CD? Thanks.

You should select "Burn an image to disc" instead of a data CD.

Hello Larrimore, I do not see the 'Burn an image to disc' selection on the demo copy.

it has 'Make Data CD' 'Make Data DVD' 'Make Audio and Data CD' 'Copy CD' 'Copy DVD'
'Make Video CD' Make your own DVD-Video' etc

Talk about irony. Both of my HD-A1 HDMI connections work perfectly with my SONY Ruby and 60A2000 displays and with a monoprice.com 5x1 switcher too (using firmware v1.4 and now v2.0).

Have you tried a BD player on the Toshiba? :eek: Seriously, call Toshiba up at (800) 319-6684. One would hope that they'd be able to help since it's a total Toshiba solution.

I've called Toshiba and they have logged the issue - but they have not said if there will be a fix. All the setup menus and stuff work great via HDMI, so it appears to be an HDCP issue...again. :(

You WOULD think that getting HD DVD to work with their own gear (Sanyo Z2 projector) would be a top priority, wouldn't you?!?! :confused:

Do you mean that the entire picture is filled, like a zoom in, or that have your screen is black? If it's zoomed in, you don't need to read what happened to me below.

Not sure if we had the same issue or not, but I have a Toshiba 72HM195 projection tv. I had an issue where sometimes after turning on the set after watching something previously over HDMI, I would only have the left half of the screen showing anything. After this occurred, all inputs would be affected and it even cut the TV menus in half. Turns out I need a firmware update from Toshiba to fix the computer in the TV. Maybe you have something similar?

I'm going to try the HDMI Audio to AUTO myself; not only do I get HDMI errors currently when switching between X360 and this player BUT often the TV is not set to the correct resolution - I see 1/2 the screen. This is fixed by unplugging my Westinghouse 32" for about 3 seconds and plugging it back in. No one's mentioned this over there that I can find, so I thought I'd post here too.

Where can the software be downloaded from?

I don't want to wait for a disc to come in the mail.

Ok, I have a 720P Toshiba DLP and my Toshiba HD-A1 is hooked up with HDMI to HDMI and i have NEVER gotten BTB on my display. Last night after my 2.0 upgrade I decided just for fun to click on the THX optimizer with Finding Nemo and OMG!!!! BTB!!! i yelled so loud my wife thought i was shot. :D I didn't know that was part of this firmware update.

I think Kris Deering of Secrets NEEDS to re-review this player!


EDIT: seems as if it depends on what disk the THX optimizer is on whether you get BTB or not (this makes no sense to me btw) The THX optimizer on "Heathers" shows no BTB for me but on Finding Nemo all is good. hmmm any ideas? :confused:

Where can the software be downloaded from?

I don't want to wait for a disc to come in the mail.

You can try: www.1080x1920.net , they have there also utilities and instructions (and some more interesting stuff). You need to register, but it's free albeit slow at times,

Kris

Do you mean that the entire picture is filled, like a zoom in, or that have your screen is black? If it's zoomed in, you don't need to read what happened to me below.

Not sure if we had the same issue or not, but I have a Toshiba 72HM195 projection tv. I had an issue where sometimes after turning on the set after watching something previously over HDMI, I would only have the left half of the screen showing anything. After this occurred, all inputs would be affected and it even cut the TV menus in half. Turns out I need a firmware update from Toshiba to fix the computer in the TV. Maybe you have something similar?

Thanks, I see the top half of the picture. Not sure if the problem is the Tosh or the Westinghouse as I'm the only one with the problem. I do know that if I pause HBO HD on my HR10-250 and switch I never have a problem.

I've called Toshiba and they have logged the issue - but they have not said if there will be a fix. All the setup menus and stuff work great via HDMI, so it appears to be an HDCP issue...again. :(

You WOULD think that getting HD DVD to work with their own gear (Sanyo Z2 projector) would be a top priority, wouldn't you?!?! :confused:

Strange -- I can't even pass the "Setup Menu" video via HDMI to my Z2. Using a Monoprice HDMI-DVI cable my player will play the discs (I have audio {via coax} and the front-panel display timer on the A1 increments), but I get absolutely no video signal. Is it possible to have a faulty HDMI connector? I'm thinking highly unlikely, but I suppose anything is possible.

When I switched my HR10-250 (hd-tivo) to 720p just like my X360 and my Toshiba, I have the same problem. My issue I think is with the Westinghouse, I think, sorryI couldn't help.

I got the HD-A1 3 days ago and just yesterday tried to update via the intenet. I had a problem finding the server after several tries. Finally had to turn DHCP on and DNS on and it still took several tries. The day before I had made multiple attempts but was unsuccessful. It only finally worked when I removed the most proximal router in my home network to the Toshiba, so I'm not sure if it was an issue with my home ethernet or not. However, I was finally successful so now I have Dolby TrueHD! Have not fully evaluated it yet, though. My only disc is POTO with TrueHD.

Strange -- I can't even pass the "Setup Menu" video via HDMI to my Z2. Using a Monoprice HDMI-DVI cable my player will play the discs (I have audio {via coax} and the front-panel display timer on the A1 increments), but I get absolutely no video signal. Is it possible to have a faulty HDMI connector? I'm thinking highly unlikely, but I suppose anything is possible.
Have you set your output to HDMI via the v-output button?

I got the HD-A1 3 days ago and just yesterday tried to update via the intenet. I had a problem finding the server after several tries. Finally had to turn DHCP on and DNS on and it still took several tries. The day before I had made multiple attempts but was unsuccessful. It only finally worked when I removed the most proximal router in my home network to the Toshiba, so I'm not sure if it was an issue with my home ethernet or not. However, I was finally successful so now I have Dolby TrueHD! Have not fully evaluated it yet, though. My only disc is POTO with TrueHD.
Sounds like a routing issue on your network - the A1 is probably getting packets to your ADLS router/modem, but the router/modem doesn't know the path back to your A1 - the fact it worked when you put A1 closer to the outside seems to indicate this.

Does 2.0 allow you to pause the HD-A1 and switch to another source without having the player stop and go back to the menu?

Have you set your output to HDMI via the v-output button?


Aaaw heck!! I keep forgetting about that. I set the output to HDMI and now I get the menus to display.

Unfortunately, attempting playback I now just get the "HDMI Error 1" message :(

I sure wish Toshiba would fix this, pronto! This whole Z2/A1/HDMI/DVI/HDCP thing has been nothing but an exercise in frustration. :mad:

PS: Anybody get a chance to look at the new (X)E1s and see what firmware they are using?

that's exactly the problem I encountered after upgrading to 2.0. Luckily I'm able to downgrade to 1.3 then back to 1.4 (although now I have 1 sound-hiccup per movie).

Ok, I have a 720P Toshiba DLP and my Toshiba HD-A1 is hooked up with HDMI to HDMI and i have NEVER gotten BTB on my display. Last night after my 2.0 upgrade I decided just for fun to click on the THX optimizer with Finding Nemo and OMG!!!! BTB!!! i yelled so loud my wife thought i was shot. :D I didn't know that was part of this firmware update.

I think Kris Deering of Secrets NEEDS to re-review this player!


EDIT: seems as if it depends on what disk the THX optimizer is on whether you get BTB or not (this makes no sense to me btw) The THX optimizer on "Heathers" shows no BTB for me but on Finding Nemo all is good. hmmm any ideas? :confused:

Could someone explain to me, what is BTB?...and what are you talking about?...What does it have to do with the upgrade?...Thanx.

I don't know what the obsession is with having to experiment with the latest firmware in light of the problems posted here regarding all of the releases to date with a significant number of owners. I realize that someone has to be the guinea pig, but so many of you have been so desperate that you even used beta versions!!!. I really don't get it. Nothing seems worth even the chance of ending up with a machine that doesn't play as well as it did when you first bought it.

John

Could someone explain to me, what is BTB?...and what are you talking about?...What does it have to do with the upgrade?...Thanx.

The visible NTSC video dynamic range can be expressed digitally as 16 to 235 (from blackest visible black to whitest visible white) However, the full NTSC digital range is 1 to 254. The NTSC specifies the portions below 16 and above 235 as "headroom" for the video signal. It is commonly referred to as "Blacker Than Black" (below 16) and "Whiter Than White" (above 235). However, not all players and not all displays are able to process the BTB and/or WTW information. Hence it can become an issue. (In the RCA/Toshiba case, very much an HDMI output issue.)

When calibrated properly, the portions of the video signal that are BTB or WTW should not be visible to the viewer. Some consider these ranges only to be useful for calibration purposes, whereas others feel they are necessary for maximum accuracy of the displayed image.

FYI -- both BTB and WTW are deliberately clipped from the film video on a BluRay disc.

-- Trevor

The visible NTSC video dynamic range can be expressed digitally as 16 to 235 (from blackest visible black to whitest visible white) However, the full NTSC digital range is 1 to 254. The NTSC specifies the portions below 16 and above 235 as "headroom" for the video signal. It is commonly referred to as "Blacker Than Black" (below 16) and "Whiter Than White" (above 235). However, not all players and not all displays are able to process the BTB and/or WTW information. Hence it can become an issue. (In the RCA/Toshiba case, very much an HDMI output issue.)

When calibrated properly, the portions of the video signal that are BTB or WTW should not be visible to the viewer. Some consider these ranges only to be useful for calibration purposes, whereas others feel they are necessary for maximum accuracy of the displayed image.

FYI -- both BTB and WTW are deliberately clipped from the film video on a BluRay disc.

-- Trevor

Thank you, BTW, when I calibrated my PTAE900U Panny FP using the THX optimizer all my settings were dead zero...Guess Panasonic has them pretty well dialed in right out of the box!...I was impressed.

Some consider these ranges only to be useful for calibration purposes, whereas others feel they are necessary for maximum accuracy of the displayed image. For the latter, think about scaling. You don't want to be trying to "interpolate" new pixels using incorrect (not on the disc) data. That is actually more important that the calibration aspect. Also, the headroom on either end is more important for CRTs during playback given the way they work (regardless of the other two things). If BTB and WTW were truly just "clipped", instead of "pushed out", the bug would be less offensive.

larry

I don't know what the obsession is with having to experiment with the latest firmware in light of the problems posted here regarding all of the releases to date with a significant number of owners. .....
John

Personally, I waited for the update to be officially available from Toshiba via the Update menu over the internet.
I mention that because I do agree with you about messing with Beta versions.

NO different than the risk one incurs when flashing their Computer's BIOS with a Beta version.

However, you are missing a big point about this new version of the firmware.
This enables all the channels,instead of just the 2 channels, of TRUEHD audio.

A rather significant capability to have working properly.

The visible NTSC video dynamic range can be expressed digitally as 16 to 235 (from blackest visible black to whitest visible white) However, the full NTSC digital range is 1 to 254. The NTSC specifies the portions below 16 and above 235 as "headroom" for the video signal. It is commonly referred to as "Blacker Than Black" (below 16) and "Whiter Than White" (above 235). However, not all players and not all displays are able to process the BTB and/or WTW information. Hence it can become an issue. (In the RCA/Toshiba case, very much an HDMI output issue.)

When calibrated properly, the portions of the video signal that are BTB or WTW should not be visible to the viewer. Some consider these ranges only to be useful for calibration purposes, whereas others feel they are necessary for maximum accuracy of the displayed image.

FYI -- both BTB and WTW are deliberately clipped from the film video on a BluRay disc.

-- Trevor

This has been covered a zillion times before, but I think it's most accurate to characterize values above 235 as "peak whites" rather than whiter-than-whites which is a term too close to blacker-than-black and does not distinguish the difference. Peak whites absolutely WILL be visible on a CRT display which is what is used in mastering. Depending on how you choose to calibrate a digital display with a concrete white point limit, you may or may not choose to clip peak whites, or some portion of peak whites from the image. Joe Kane advocates maintaining through 255. I am a CRTer, so the decision is somewhat removed from me since I don't I am not confronted by this possible compromise.

While many displays and sources and devices get this wrong and clip values, they should not. Why they do is usually due to confusion/bad design.

While many displays and sources and devices get this wrong and clip values, they should not. Why they do is usually due to confusion/bad design.

All true. We watch Aeon Flux last night and there is a lot to see in the peak white area. A person wearing white in a white rooms. This film is a sight to behold.

We all wait impatiently for an HD DVD calibration disk...

- Rich

How to convert the firmware to burn it on Macintosh OSX 10.4

This needs to be run in a terminal window.

WARNING 1 => type the commands following the percent sign (%)
WARNING 2 => do not type the percent sign (%)
WARNING 3 => STOP if the md5 or sum results on your Mac differ from these.
WARNING 4 => italics show the output of the commands.

% dd if=2.0firmware.nrg bs=307200 skip=1 | dd bs=512 count=118048 of=ToshibaHDA1firmware2_0.cdr

196+1 records in
196+1 records out
60440732 bytes transferred in 2.077188 secs (29097381 bytes/sec)
118048+0 records in
118048+0 records out
60440576 bytes transferred in 2.062568 secs (29303556 bytes/sec)


% md5 ToshibaHDA1firmware2_0.cdr
MD5 (ToshibaHDA1firmware2_0.cdr) = ec9fc31b0358f5fc2c9c0606c03c9836


% sum ToshibaHDA1firmware2_0.cdr
13737 59024 ToshibaHDA1firmware2_0.cdr


% md5 2.0firmware.nrg
MD5 (2.0firmware.nrg) = 35e4dd466ae551f986125e728e5620e3


Now you can burn the disk image using Disk Utility in the Applications folder.
1. click on BURN in the upper left corner
2. choose the file ToshibaHDA1firmware2_0.cdr
3. click BURN


enjoy

ST

corrected location of "BURN" button - it's on the upper left not right.

Strange -- I can't even pass the "Setup Menu" video via HDMI to my Z2. Using a Monoprice HDMI-DVI cable my player will play the discs (I have audio {via coax} and the front-panel display timer on the A1 increments), but I get absolutely no video signal. Is it possible to have a faulty HDMI connector? I'm thinking highly unlikely, but I suppose anything is possible.

Has your Z2 been upgraded by Sanyo? There is no charge, plus they pay shipping both ways. Call Dan at 818-998-7322 x284 and tell him you need the HDCP upgrade. Apparently its a new hardware board + new firmware (I had the upgrade done, but I haven't taken apart mine to confirm what exactly the new hardware is). With the upgrade, the setup menus via HDMI work 100% of the time, no glitches. Under 1.4 I could get an HDMI pic with certain discs, but not consistently. I've been traveling, so I was only able to try 1 or 2 discs (can't remember) via HDMI and 2.0 before leaving, but zero luck. Setup still works 100% however.

Also, PLEASE call Toshiba at (800) 319-6684 and have them log your complaint in their database - the more people with Z2 HDMI problems they have logged in their system the better the chance that Tosh will fix the problem in the next firmware update. So please, please, everyone with a Sanyo Z2 call Toshiba and tell them about your problem and ask them to log the issue.

This has been covered a zillion times before, but I think it's most accurate to characterize values above 235 as "peak whites" rather than whiter-than-whites which is a term too close to blacker-than-black and does not distinguish the difference. Peak whites absolutely WILL be visible on a CRT display which is what is used in mastering. Depending on how you choose to calibrate a digital display with a concrete white point limit, you may or may not choose to clip peak whites, or some portion of peak whites from the image. Joe Kane advocates maintaining through 255. I am a CRTer, so the decision is somewhat removed from me since I don't I am not confronted by this possible compromise.

While many displays and sources and devices get this wrong and clip values, they should not. Why they do is usually due to confusion/bad design.

Thanks for your addendums, Larry and Chris.

-- Trevor

.......EDIT: seems as if it depends on what disk the THX optimizer is on whether you get BTB or not (this makes no sense to me btw) The THX optimizer on "Heathers" shows no BTB for me but on Finding Nemo all is good. hmmm any ideas? :confused:

It may be because they encoded the THX patterns wrong on Heathers:rolleyes:???

Your HDMI port is fried get it fixed ASAP.

Rob
Just to follow up: My Toshiba DLP was getting no connection via HDMI with the HD DVD player and my directv HD-Tivo. Today I had it repaired under warranty (the DLP tv). Happily, the Tivo and HD DVD player are now working with the HDMI ports. Of course now I have to attempt to calibrate used the HDMI ports. Where's that calibration disc again?

Just to follow up: My Toshiba DLP was getting no connection via HDMI with the HD DVD player and my directv HD-Tivo. Today I had it repaired under warranty (the DLP tv). Happily, the Tivo and HD DVD player are now working with the HDMI ports. Of course now I have to attempt to calibrate used the HDMI ports. Where's that calibration disc again?

I'm glad to see you got it fixed.....Now all you need to do is watch some HDDVD!!!

Does RCA have 2.0 firmware available for download yet ?


*sighs* :confused:

Does RCA have 2.0 firmware available for download yet ?


*sighs* :confused:

I haven't checked the RCA site lately, but it wasn't there a few days ago. Since I already used the 2.0 unofficial firmware download, I would probably have to go back to 1.4 to actually use the official firmware when it comes out. Not sure it is worth the bother, since the player has worked flawlessly so far for me. What I do find as odd, is that some that were not having problems with 1.4 are having issues with 2.0. It is just the opposite for me. I was having skipping, now haven't had a single one on the last 7 discs I have played. (Scratched up Netflix, none-the-less)

The RCA website still says 1.4 (I've been checking every day. Has anyone just hooked it up and tried? Maybe its up and they just haven't updated the website? I haven't tried b/c I have to reset my cable modem and run a 50ft cable to update my RCA.

The visible NTSC video dynamic range can be expressed digitally as 16 to 235 (from blackest visible black to whitest visible white) However, the full NTSC digital range is 1 to 254. The NTSC specifies the portions below 16 and above 235 as "headroom" for the video signal. It is commonly referred to as "Blacker Than Black" (below 16) and "Whiter Than White" (above 235). However, not all players and not all displays are able to process the BTB and/or WTW information. Hence it can become an issue. (In the RCA/Toshiba case, very much an HDMI output issue.)

When calibrated properly, the portions of the video signal that are BTB or WTW should not be visible to the viewer. Some consider these ranges only to be useful for calibration purposes, whereas others feel they are necessary for maximum accuracy of the displayed image.

FYI -- both BTB and WTW are deliberately clipped from the film video on a BluRay disc.

-- Trevor

So how do you test for this?

Just going to post a quick note on my update with the Analog cables I got for the HD-A1 and upgrading to 2.0. I finally got the Denon 1803 dialed in for Analog. For whatever reason all the speakers were set to -12dB which kind of surprised me. I'm not sure about the rest of you, but I put my fronts at 5dB, Center at 12dB, sub at 10dB, and rears at 5dB. With these settings I get some nice surround sound, but I haven't ever calibrated my speakers the correct way. I just go by how well it sounds when I try out various movies. ;) One of these days I'll try to find someone I know that knows what they are doing and have them setup up the correct way.

With those settings that I did I do not have to crank up my volume on my reciever like I thought I would have to. After I got all of that I checked out Constanine and it sounded pretty good. I still feel my Sub is a little on the wimpy side, so I may turn the volume up for that on the back of it. I'd love to see Saving Private Ryan with a TrueHD track to hear how that sounds. Overall I'm happy with how the upgrade went. Now to get more movies with TrueHD and compare them to DD or DTS and see how it all sounds.

So I lied it wasn't a quick note afterall.

So how do you test for this?

I use DVE myself, but it requires some form of calibration disc (usually either DVE or AVIA).

-- Trevor

The RCA website still says 1.4 (I've been checking every day. Has anyone just hooked it up and tried? Maybe its up and they just haven't updated the website? I haven't tried b/c I have to reset my cable modem and run a 50ft cable to update my RCA.

I can't check without rolling back firmware to older RCA firmware and since it isn't available for download anywhere I'll have to wait for a disc to come in the mail from RCA. As of right now my player thinks it's a Toshiba since I flashed it with 2.0 and I can only connect to their servers. I wish 2.0 hadn't crappified my player. :mad:

Toshiba start mailing the disks yet, anyone?

I haven't gotten an e-mail yet.
J

no e-mail,
no disc,
even when I called them yesterday (Toshiba Canada) they still haven't received the disc from its manufacturer yet.

I phoned to Toshiba Canada last week (800 319-6684) and it took 4 days to get the disk by mail. I received it yesterday.

With ver 1.3, switching between layers on a dvd+r DL with a home made HD-DVD causes sound to stop and video going by steps. I had to Pause and press Play to fix this. With ver. 2.0, no more bug.

Is there a different number for the US?

Does RCA have 2.0 firmware available for download yet ?
I just plugged my RCA player back into my router to check. They still only have 1.4 for download. *sigh*

Is there a different number for the US?

Toshiba Customer Service at 1-800-268-3404.

"Toshiba Customer Service at 1-800-268-3404."

ust tried and did not seem to go through.

"Toshiba Customer Service at 1-800-268-3404."just tried and did not seem to go through

Hum... Try 800-319-6684 for US

Good luck

So how do you test for this?

I use DVE myself, but it requires some form of calibration disc (usually either DVE or AVIA).

-- Trevor

You don't have to use AVIA or DVE, etc. You can use a THX DVD like "The Incredibles", "Star Wars", etc.

The THX Optimizer BTB "drop shadow" on those is easy to see if you do or don't have it present by raising the BRIGHTNESS.

Guys...I have a weird situation going on. I am running the A1 to a Denon 4806CI via HDMI, then on to a Lumagen VisionHDP via HDMI to DVI cable. When I use either a THX disc or VE, I don't get BTB (which has been the case even before using the Denon in the chain). BUT, when I put in a HD DVD test disc that I made using Ulead that has a blacker than black stripe on it, I GET BTB with HD! For some reason, the player is clipping SD BTB and allowing it on HD. Very strange indeed.

I believe someone else mentioned that anomaly before?

I must have missed it Dave. I don't use the Toshiba for SD playback...I use the Oppo 970 at 480i to the Lumagen.

I think that's a good idea until this is resolved. Hopefully a FW update will do it.

I must have missed it Dave. I don't use the Toshiba for SD playback...I use the Oppo 970 at 480i to the Lumagen.

I use the RCA/Toshiba for both SD and HD-DVD (HDMI->DVD-D) and get no BTB on either my DVI CRT or my DVI Moome fed projector. Don't recall if I got it on Component, will have to recheck.

Can't speak for HD-DVD, guess that's why people are mentioning need for an HD-DVD calibration disc. I'm running 1.0 firmware.

-- Trevor

I contacted Toshiba last Monday for the 2.0 firmware. the gentalman on the
phone indicated that they were expecting a shipmint (upgrade discs) in very shortly and he then took my information over the phone and indicated that as soon as they recieve the shipment they will ship out the orders. Expect 6 to 10 busisness days from the time they order the shipment. Of course being that Labor Day came along I'll expect it to take an additional 2 to 4 days.

I have yet to receieve an email.

I contacted Toshiba last Monday for the 2.0 firmware. the gentalman on the
phone indicated that they were expecting a shipmint (upgrade discs) in very shortly and he then took my information over the phone and indicated that as soon as they recieve the shipment they will ship out the orders. Expect 6 to 10 busisness days from the time they order the shipment. Of course being that Labor Day came along I'll expect it to take an additional 2 to 4 days.

I have yet to receieve an email.
That was exactly what I was told when I requested the disk the very same day it was released. Still no disk, no email. :mad:

That was exactly what I was told when I requested the disk the very same day it was released. Still no disk, no email. :mad:


I called on August 23 and was told the discs were on "backorder" and it would take at least two weeks for Toshiba to receive them from the manufacturer. Once received, orders would have to be processed and the discs shipped. I figured I would receive my disc by mid-September.

They've been saying "the discs are on backorder" since mid-July. "Great" Canadian tech support. Called the total of 5 times already, put on hold for about 15 minutes each time, and they sang the same song all the time.

How do I know what version software my HDA1 is running? I have searched through the manual and looked through numerous threads and cannot find any info. My player was built July 2006. Thanks

I was using a 35 ft bluejeans component cable running to my projector from my A1 and recently got HDMI/DVI adaptor to use with my DVI cable. I like HDMI/DVI slightly better over component but I am forced to go back to using component because I can't calibrate my A1 properly with the BTB and WTW issue with the A1 and HDMI/DVI. What looks very good to my naked eye turned out to be not accurate. I am losing detail in darker scenes. Using DVE was a no go. Tried THX Optimizer sets the brightness a little too high and that makes colors look washed out. I am too spoiled with calibration disks and without them I can't get accurate picture. Is there any work around solution or other calibration disk I can use? I have DVE, AVIA, S&V and THX Optimizer. Firmware is 1.4 on the Tosh.

Find someone in your area that has an HDTV Pattern Generator like the Accupel HDG-3000, or better yet pay an ISF pro to come and calibrate that puppy:)

You can also try recording the HD patterns from INHD or HD-Net and use those.

Guys...I have a weird situation going on. I am running the A1 to a Denon 4806CI via HDMI, then on to a Lumagen VisionHDP via HDMI to DVI cable. When I use either a THX disc or VE, I don't get BTB (which has been the case even before using the Denon in the chain). BUT, when I put in a HD DVD test disc that I made using Ulead that has a blacker than black stripe on it, I GET BTB with HD! For some reason, the player is clipping SD BTB and allowing it on HD. Very strange indeed.

Yes, the 2.0 firmware has disabled 422 component on the Lumagen with SD DVD. The only option is to use RGB and the A1 will only provide PC levels. Commercial HD DVD's still are working with 422.

However, I was unable to get the one recorded HD DVD I have to work with 422 as well. The fact that you apparently have gotten it to work is interesting.

Where are you guys getting HD DVD test that has a blacker than black stripe on it and what software do you use to burn it?

Just got this email from Toshiba:

Dear Valued Toshiba Customer:

Our records show that you returned the Firmware Update Request card that
was included with your HD DVD player, and asked that we notify you when
firmware updates become available.

A new Firmware Update Disc is now available and, if you have not already
received it, you will receive it by mail soon. This firmware update adds
support for certain anticipated network delivered content in future HD DVD
discs, improves certain video and audio processing capabilities, as well as
addresses certain disc playback and HDMI/DVI related problems identified by
Toshiba. To update the firmware in your HD DVD player, please follow the
instructions provided with the Firmware Update Disc. After completing the
firmware update process your HD DVD player should show the current firmware
version as 2.0. You may use this Firmware Update Disc to update your
player from any prior version of firmware. It is not necessary to perform
interim firmware updates.

Alan, slide down the cover and hit the setup button. I don't remember the exact steps, but you have to act like you are updating the firmware. It will tell you the current version and ask if you want to update, then you can exit out without updating if you like.
Warren.

Oh, I have a quesion. I have an iScan HD+ which is DVI, so I have a 40 foot HDMI-DVI cable to my projector (benq 7700.) I was thinking about getting an amp with hdmi switching to avoid HDMI-DVI issues and since the iScan is kinda unnecessary since all my stuff is HD now. I could use an DVI-HDMI adapter on the end of the cable. This would give me HDMI->DVI->HDMI. Would that elimiate the HDMI-DVI problems?
Warren.

Just got this email from Toshiba:

Dear Valued Toshiba Customer:



Likewise. Should be in the mail box in the next few days. :)

I just (5 minutes ago) received the email from Toshiba re the 2.0 update disc as well.

Glad I waited, as I feel safer using this method.

:cool:

Got my email, too! Hopefully I'll have TrueHD in time for TROY next week. :)

Oh, I have a quesion. I have an iScan HD+ which is DVI, so I have a 40 foot HDMI-DVI cable to my projector (benq 7700.) I was thinking about getting an amp with hdmi switching to avoid HDMI-DVI issues and since the iScan is kinda unnecessary since all my stuff is HD now. I could use an DVI-HDMI adapter on the end of the cable. This would give me HDMI->DVI->HDMI. Would that elimiate the HDMI-DVI problems?
Warren.

That should work as long as it doesn't detect DVI anywhere in the signal path.

Yup, I always wait for the discs now. You never know about downloading these firmwares...

Dave,
That is similar to the setup that I have with the A1 going to a Denon 4806CI over HDMI, then HDMI/DVI to a Lumagen, then HDMI out (w/ DVI Adapter) to my Mits Projector. The problem in the chain is that the Denon when it senses DVI down the line will only output RGB and there is no defeating it, so the BTB is getting clipped on SD viewing material. For some reason, on my HD DVD test disc that I made, it isn't happening.

Greetings!
Just purchased a HD-XA1. While waiting for it to arrive, I am looking into the firmware upgrade, as I own a Samsung HL-S6187W. I know there are HDMI connectivity issues with this set. Does anyone know if the newest HD-XA(1)'s include the ver 2.0 upgrade built in? I also recall seeing a thread about players locking up while doing the firmware upgarde via USB, if a disc is in the tray. What are the chances of that happening when using the Toshiba firmwarte disc?
I sincely appreciate any and all input....
Best,
James W Barron
snowtrooper1966@hotmail.com

Toshiba should also post the firmware on its website for download, that can later be inscribed. Should be more easier for all of us to get it without waiting for the postman.

Dave,
That is similar to the setup that I have with the A1 going to a Denon 4806CI over HDMI, then HDMI/DVI to a Lumagen, then HDMI out (w/ DVI Adapter) to my Mits Projector. The problem in the chain is that the Denon when it senses DVI down the line will only output RGB and there is no defeating it, so the BTB is getting clipped on SD viewing material. For some reason, on my HD DVD test disc that I made, it isn't happening.

Dave,

That makes sense in your case since you have the Lumagen in the path, which is DVI. Warren said that he's removing the DVI device in his chain (iScan HD+) and now asking that if he uses his existing DVI cable with a DVI->HDMI adapter, will it act as an HDMI connection. I believe it will and I have done this in the past. The only thing "DVI" in his signal path is the cable. See his question below:

Oh, I have a quesion. I have an iScan HD+ which is DVI, so I have a 40 foot HDMI-DVI cable to my projector (benq 7700.) I was thinking about getting an amp with hdmi switching to avoid HDMI-DVI issues and since the iScan is kinda unnecessary since all my stuff is HD now. I could use an DVI-HDMI adapter on the end of the cable. This would give me HDMI->DVI->HDMI. Would that elimiate the HDMI-DVI problems?
Warren.

Greetings!
Just purchased a HD-XA1. While waiting for it to arrive, I am looking into the firmware upgrade, as I own a Samsung HL-S6187W. I know there are HDMI connectivity issues with this set. Does anyone know if the newest HD-XA(1)'s include the ver 2.0 upgrade built in? I also recall seeing a thread about players locking up while doing the firmware upgarde via USB, if a disc is in the tray. What are the chances of that happening when using the Toshiba firmwarte disc?
I sincely appreciate any and all input....
Best,
James W Barron
snowtrooper1966@hotmail.com

I just ordered and received mine from *******.com and it was an early build. So I would think, that even if players with 2.0 are being built already it may be a few more weeks until they are in the supply chain.

With 2.0 now being official, you can easily upgrade with the ethernet. My machine was still 1.0 out of the box so it took a while to do the whole 2.0 upgrade but it went perfectly and the machine works great. The hardest part was waiting the 1.5-2.0 hours to finally get to use my machine for the first time. Not sure about the time it "should" have taken but I have a 5mbps cable line and my network was not stressed at the time.

I just started my internet upgrade before a football game, and after the game it was done. I left a disk in it. Didn't know that was bad. Everything is fine though.

I got my E-mail from Tosh that they were sending the 2.0 upgrade disk, but I haven't received it yet. Has anyone?

Not me, but I just got the email yesterday.

I have the 2.0R, is this the last firm? If isn´t please, could someone send me to me email, pleeas?

Thanks in advance.

I followed the manel instrutions right now on my screen is showing setupmenu..
there is no % of update download showing... it is not saying anything about download..AM I DOWNLOAD OR SHOULD I START OVER THE PLAYER just says set up
Please help

BladeRunner7......It will take about 10 minutes before it shows the 10% on display!!!!!!!It will take about 30 to 40 minutes to get to 50%,But one it gets to there then it will increase at 5% increments very quickly until it reaches 100%.....then once it is complete it will shut itself off!!!!!

BladeRunner7......It will take about 10 minutes before it shows the 10% on display!!!!!!!It will take about 30 to 40 minutes to get to 50%,But one it gets to there then it will increase at 5% increments very quickly until it reaches 100%.....then once it is complete it will shut itself off!!!!!
it has been hooked up for 50 mins and no % of anything

OK BladeRunner.I just re-read your post....I was under the assumption that you had already click on update Firmware!!!

1st things 1st..make sure you have ethernet cable plugged into the HDA1..then go into set-up select ethernet settings turn on DHCP!!

Then select general ,go to maintenence,click on update then push the setup button to start downloading 2.0 FW....before it starts there is an agreement page....you have to select ok....you need to move the YELLOW highlight to the left then click ok button on remote....it will then start the download!!!Hope this helps:D

fixed it
ths

I just started my internet upgrade before a football game, and after the game it was done. I left a disk in it. Didn't know that was bad. Everything is fine though.

I GOT THE SAME EMAIL.Should i install it when it comes.My player works fine.I am scared that this might screw it up.Should i just leave it as is.Please advise.BUDDA :(

I GOT THE SAME EMAIL.Should i install it when it comes.My player works fine.I am scared that this might screw it up.Should i just leave it as is.Please advise.BUDDA :(

If you want to experience lossless TrueHD sound, you'll need to upgrade. If you're happy with Dolby Digital Plus, keep what you've got.

I GOT THE SAME EMAIL.Should i install it when it comes.My player works fine.I am scared that this might screw it up.Should i just leave it as is.Please advise.BUDDA :(
I am in the same situation as you are. Since my player is functioning so perfectly and since there are only a few titles that have TrueHD 5.1, I will hold on the update to see if this is the end of the road for A1 firmware updates. If there is no way to go back to previous firmware as reported, I say hold on the update. Just my two cents.

Has anyone tried Last Samurai with 2.0? It's the only movie I have thus far and the audio levels dropped about 10db from 1.4 -> 2.0. I have contacted Toshiba (about 2 weeks ago) and they have not yet returned my call.

Has anyone tried Last Samurai with 2.0? It's the only movie I have thus far and the audio levels dropped about 10db from 1.4 -> 2.0. I have contacted Toshiba (about 2 weeks ago) and they have not yet returned my call.

Using the 5.1 analogs, my first HD-A1 (version 1.0) dropped audio level for the sub by 10 dB. To correct that, I set levels at -7 dB for all speakers and the sub at 0 dB. With an increase of the Master volume at the a/v and an increase of 1 o'clock setting at the sub's Gain, I had a good balanced system.

I returned my HD-A1 within the 30 day limit last May because I hardly buy movies, preferring music and DVD Concerts. However, learning that the HD-A2 will not carry 5.1 multichannel analogs (a must for my equipment) last Friday I bought an HD-A1 again, while still available, and expect to receive it in a day or so. It will have version 1.4 and will again repeat my settings and see what happens. In fact I will use it a few days/weeks before I install update 2.0.

Hmm, the levels are so low that even at 0db on my AVM-20 (which is the max level on the 6CH input) I would describe it as moderatly quiet. I need to get another movie to test.

Hmm, the levels are so low that even at 0db on my AVM-20 (which is the max level on the 6CH input) I would describe it as moderatly quiet. I need to get another movie to test.

With the use of PassThrough in your AVM-20? ... no processing in the a/v?

Hmm, the levels are so low that even at 0db on my AVM-20 (which is the max level on the 6CH input) I would describe it as moderatly quiet. I need to get another movie to test.
Change your speaker to large in A1 audio setup leaving the speaker levels at zero and sub to use.

Hmm, the levels are so low that even at 0db on my AVM-20 (which is the max level on the 6CH input) I would describe it as moderatly quiet. I need to get another movie to test.

Also, be sure that dialog normalization and dynamic range control are "off" in the A1 menu. It seems one or both may default to "on" after a firmware upgrade or initialization of the player.

If you want to experience lossless TrueHD sound, you'll need to upgrade. If you're happy with Dolby Digital Plus, keep what you've got.

My sound is great now.If that is all the 2.0 offers i will just keep it at 1.4.Thanks BUDDA

Anyone receive a 2.0 disc in the mail yet?

Anyone receive a 2.0 disc in the mail yet?


Nope, hopefully sometime this week.

Hmm, the levels are so low that even at 0db on my AVM-20 (which is the max level on the 6CH input) I would describe it as moderatly quiet. I need to get another movie to test.

In case you aren't aware, "The Last Sumurai" was one of several early Warner releases that has very low audio levels.

-- Trevor

In case you aren't aware, "The Last Sumurai" was one of several early Warner releases that has very low audio levels.

-- Trevor

I am aware, but with 1.4 it was 10db louder (still quiet but usable). So basically, 2.0 ruined the movie because now I can barely hear anything when I watch it even at max volume.

My AVM-20 is set to Analog-DSP I have set the speakers to "large" and sub to "use", speaker levels at 0db. I have turned off all enhancements and re-initalized the player a few times to get make sure everything was squared away. Also, I discovered that the AVM-20 is now detecting the signal as 2.1 instead of 5.1, so something is very wrong with my analog output after the upgrade. I called Toshiba but they told me they needed to "investigate the issue," and that was about 3 weeks ago.

Can someone *please* slap Last Samurai into their 2.0 player and tell me if it is listeable, even if they have to crank up the volume. I used to listen at ~ -14db before the update.

I just got my player hooked up last night. Riddick was awesome on the 120" Silverstar. I use the analog outs and it was plenty loud. I Had to turn the volumn down. I don't have Last Samurai to test. I don't think you should have any DSP going on. My yamaha I set it to "external decoder". All it does then it amplify, and that is all it should do. The speaker test in the setup menu does work just fine on my system. Make sure it does on yours.
Warren.

Received the 2.0 update CD both Toshiba included instructions for a DVD recorder rather than the HD-A1.

Can someone who used the 2.0 CD supply the update instructions?

Received the 2.0 update CD but Toshiba included instructions for a DVD recorder rather than the HD-A1.

Can someone who used the 2.0 CD supply the update instructions?

Received the 2.0 update CD but Toshiba included instructions for a DVD recorder rather than the HD-A1.

Can someone who used the 2.0 CD supply the update instructions?

I think you are the first to receive the disc. You should be able to just put it in the player, and it will take care of itself.

Any chance an image of the official CD could be uploaded?

In case you aren't aware, "The Last Sumurai" was one of several early Warner releases that has very low audio levels.

-- Trevor

Is there a complete list of those somewhere? I don't want to get drawn into buying one on eBay by a low price. The new ones have been fixed, right?

I think you are the first to receive the disc. You should be able to just put it in the player, and it will take care of itself.

The CD label says the following in bold and uppercase letters:

"Please refer to the HDVD2001 update instructions included with this disc. The instructions must be followed in full. If instructions are needed, contact Toshiba Customer support at 1-800-xxx-xxxx"

this from Toshiba.ca (Canada). And the 800 number is incorrect. However the wrong instruction sheet has a slightly different number... but it's busy, busy, busy

On the other hand, I know a person who updated the HD-A1 with the Unofficial 2.0 update and it worked very well within 10 minutes. For having downloaded that version, there are no instructions for installation.

So you could be right but perhaps not a foul proof method.

Toshiba mailing me the correct instructions for using the 2.0 update CD. Should get it tomorrow.

Toshiba mailing me the correct instructions for using the 2.0 update CD. Should get it tomorrow.

Mailing them to you..?? They couldn't email them. Or, just read it to you on the phone?

Here's what they should say:

1) Insert disc (assuming player is powered on)
2) Click on "yes" when it asks you if you want to update

I wasn't trying to fan any flames. I just would like to know if there are more than one version of any titles with audio problems out there and if so, what are they?

I wasn't trying to fan any flames. I just would like to know if there are more than one version of any titles with audio problems out there and if so, what are they?
There is only one version of all of the HD DVDs.

Getting back on topic, does anyone know if we will continue to get FW upgrades after the G2 players are out? Will the G2 players be upgradable, and if so, will they take the same upgrades?
Just curious.
J

There is only one version of all of the HD DVDs.

Getting back on topic, does anyone know if we will continue to get FW upgrades after the G2 players are out? Will the G2 players be upgradable, and if so, will they take the same upgrades?
Just curious.
J

The A2 is supposedly using a CE style chip solution, so I wouldn't expect it to be firmware compatible with the XA2 (which is supposedly still using an Intel processor). We'll probably learn more soon.

-- Trevor

PS. I would expect the G1 updates to be separate from G2, if only due to differences in architecture and/or specific components.

PPS. Since defects are still being reported with G1, I doubt support will go away for a long time yet. Personally, I'm still expecting to see some more enhancements.

The A2 is supposedly using a CE style chip solution, so I wouldn't expect it to be firmware compatible with the XA2 (which is supposedly still using an Intel processor). We'll probably learn more soon.

-- Trevor

PS. I would expect the G1 updates to be separate from G2, if only due to differences in architecture and/or specific components.

PPS. Since defects are still being reported with G1, I doubt support will go away for a long time yet. Personally, I'm still expecting to see some more enhancements.
That 1080p light on the front still intrigues me....wishful thinking I guess :cool:

Received the 2.0 update CD but Toshiba included instructions for a DVD recorder rather than the HD-A1.

Can someone who used the 2.0 CD supply the update instructions?
You fill me with hope that my fw disc won't be on B/O for much longer.

That 1080p light on the front still intrigues me....wishful thinking I guess :cool:

I think so -- the hardware simply isn't there for 1080p60 (and I gather it's very unlikely we'll get 1080p24). Still, as you probably know, 1080i60 from a 1080p source should provide all that's needed for most 1080p display's (specifically excluding 1080p CRT projectors as I understand).

-- Trevor

There is only one version of all of the HD DVDs.

Getting back on topic....J

Thanks and sorry for any hijacking. I'm just excited. FedEx just dropped off my player so here goes.

Thanks and sorry for any hijacking. I'm just excited. FedEx just dropped off my player so here goes.

Enjoy!

-- Trevor

Well I decided to upgrade to 2.0 right out of the box. I did a quick setup and then popped in the upgrade that I downloaded and burned with MagicIso. All went as planned and in ten minutes I had 2.0 on the player.

I popped in Training Day and after sitting there stunned at the incredible picture for a bit, I then hit menu (which is no small accomplishment with this remote) and switched to TrueHD. I cranked it up and was blown away by what came out of my Paradigms. I had to back off my sub a bit before my fillings came out and all was good.

I'm in love with this player at fist sight (and listen). :D

EDIT: To change UltraIso to MagicIso.

Well I decided to upgrade to 2.0 right out of the box. I did a quick setup and then popped in the upgrade that I downloaded and burned with UltraIso. All went as planned and in ten minutes I had 2.0 on the player.

I popped in Training Day and after sitting there stunned at the incredible picture for a bit, I then hit menu (which is no small accomplishment with this remote) and switched to TrueHD. I cranked it up and was blown away by what came out of my Paradigms. I had to back off my sub a bit before my fillings came out and all was good.

I'm in love with this player at fist sight (and listen). :D

Hmmm! Sounds like the "Look and Sound of Perfect" to me!

-- Trevor

Hmmm! Sounds like the "Look and Sound of Perfect" to me!

-- Trevor

It does to me too!

Well I decided to upgrade to 2.0 right out of the box. I did a quick setup and then popped in the upgrade that I downloaded and burned with MagicIso. All went as planned and in ten minutes I had 2.0 on the player.

I popped in Training Day and after sitting there stunned at the incredible picture for a bit, I then hit menu (which is no small accomplishment with this remote) and switched to TrueHD. I cranked it up and was blown away by what came out of my Paradigms. I had to back off my sub a bit before my fillings came out and all was good.

I'm in love with this player at fist sight (and listen). :D

EDIT: To change UltraIso to MagicIso.


Suggestion: Ditch the Tosh remote. Get a universal.

I did a quick setup and then popped in the upgrade that I downloaded and burned with MagicIso. All went as planned and in ten minutes I had 2.0 on the player.


.Where did you download 2.0?

You can try: www.1080x1920.net , you have to register (free), and it's sometimes slow, but there is a lot of other stuff, including utility to burn disk images to CDs, if you need it.

Enjoy it,

Kris

You can try: www.1080x1920.net , you have to register (free), and it's sometimes slow, but there is a lot of other stuff, including utility to burn disk images to CDs, if you need it.

Enjoy it,

KrisThanks Chris. :)

Received the 2.0 update CD both Toshiba included instructions for a DVD recorder rather than the HD-A1.

Can someone who used the 2.0 CD supply the update instructions?

Same with me. Just pop it in and follow the instructions on the screen.

Hi

I've just purchased the Toshiba HD-A1 and wondered if the upgrade has already been done. In the upgrade box it says 1.2/1.09/2.0R I'm not sure what all that means or if it's running on 2.0. Can anyone help.

Thanks

the first number is your player's firmware. So right now you're running version 1.2

Hi

I've just purchased the Toshiba HD-A1 and wondered if the upgrade has already been done. In the upgrade box it says 1.2/1.09/2.0R I'm not sure what all that means or if it's running on 2.0. Can anyone help.

Thanks
You have version 1.2. The first two digits are for the firmware version.

Ok many thanks.

2.0 Question...I don't have ethernet close by to my HT setup...could I take the Tosh A1 to were I have a computer setup with AT&T DSL and download this firmware or does it have to be hooked up to my HDTV and receiver.

You need to see the menus. Get a really long ethernet cable.
Warren.

I've tried to do this on mine, it says to start download hit the select button but when I do this it takes me to a terms and conditions page which I hit ok to, then it just takes me back to the same menu page I started at. It doesn't seem to download anything. I'm properly stuck now :-(

I think you need to hit a different button, not ok to do the download. I remember it was weird. Try again and look carefully.
Warren.

There was only ok and cancel, I can't see anything else I could select

it defaults to the cancel button and (not sure if this had been fixed yet not) previously you couldnt tell by the color schemes which button was selected on the screen. Try using the arrow button to shift over to the ok button first then hit enter

Do you think downloading from the website in this thread is worth doing, I just don't want to break a brand new player

Ahh ok tom I'll try that, I just thought it was automatically on ok, cheers