Another home theatre project is born! WAHHHH! Im beginning the fun process of remodelling my downstairs den into a home theatre. It was a 1970s den complete with fire engine red carpet (presumably to match the fire engine red toilet that was in the downstairs bathroom when we bought the house :) ). The red carpet was an amazing eye grabber, but its run its course. I had been using this room as my home office for many years. Almost the last room of the house that I havent remodelled so Im really excited to blow this room up and get started.

About Me
Primarily, Im a DIYer. Drywall is the exception though. Wont touch it. I know my limits too. Im not the most comfortable with electrical, but Ive done it in my bathroom remodels and was pretty successful at that (i.e. the house hasnt burnt down. :)). Im a computer nerd, so the electronics are more a less a no-brainer.

I do get to the point where Im not a complete fanatic about audio/video. I reach a point where everything is "good enough." Ive seen many demonstration theatres with ridiculously expensive equipment, and the pic quality isnt anything I could really tell a difference between that and my Panasonic AE900. I love Panasonic equipment! Everything Ive ever owned (including a 1985 CD player) from them has ever blown up. Thats getting bang for your buck!

Room Dimensions
The room itself is about 22' long x 13.5' wide x 7.75' tall. Sounds big until you see the fireplace that sucks up a lot of space. The real useable footprint is 16.5' x 13.5'.

Goals
- 3 or 4 wall sconces. 2 (or 3) on one side of the room, and 1 on the other side of the room. I could put 2 on the back wall. Im undecided there and thought I might use that wall space for decoration (movie poster maybe).

- 2 rows of seats. My ceiling if kind of low 7'9" so probably a 6" riser is all I could deal with. Hopefully, I can comfortably seat 6, but looking to seat 8. Got a big extended family... Just 4 of us in the house though that would use on a daily basis.

- Wood! I love woodworking! Anything I can do with some wood moldings and columns in here, and Im all for it! I want to make wood columns with a cabinet grade cherry or oak for the sconces. I need some media shelves and bookshelves too as I have a lot of those to store.

- Equipment closet. Just to the right of the fireplace is an existing closet 2'd x 2.5'w. A perfect equipment closet! Its stuffy, and I am concerned with airflow there. I did have a ton of spare junk in there before so Ill need some new place to throw my junk.

The Challenges
My room is not without its design "challenges."

- FIREPLACE - The focal point is a big old 7.5' w x 7.75' h red brick fireplace. Its been used twice in the 12+ years that we've lived here. Its a perfect place for the screen actually. My buddy said I should not put the screen there but on the opposite wall that has a 6.5' x 2' window. I could do that, but it would really make putting in 2 rows of seats difficult because row #2 would be basically right up against the hearth of the fireplace. Just wouldnt "look" right. Im not completely opposed to it, but getting a floor plan that can seat a crowd of people would be a challenge that I need some help resolving. One idea I had was to put 1 chair on each side of the fireplace so as to not block the firebox with a chair. An end table could go in between I suppose. I dunno. Needs some more thought. Im still pursuing using the fireplace as the primary screen locale.

Center speaker troubles
My B&W center speaker is close to 12" deep (with grille on). No exactly an easy mountable item to jut out from the fireplace. Any ideas?

Infinity 4000?
I did some research on other center speakers and found the Infinity 4000 which is a mere 4" deep, and it looks like I could mount it right on the brick too. I could probably line the speaker wire behind the screen itself and it would be nice and hidden.

Left/Right Front Speakers
Depending on the speaker layout, Id like to try and reuse my rocking B&W 603s speakers that have served me well for many years. I cant recess them, or hide them particularly though with this fireplace. However, with the screen I picked out, I can build some 4" wood columns (oak or cherry) on the edge of the fireplace and drop the speaker wires all the way to the bottom of the column. The speaker could sit on the hearth right next to the column and the wires could be pretty well hidden that way.

Ive got a pic of my first proposed screen layout with my existing L/R speakers, but cant post until Ive graduated to 5 posts.

Step 1) Demolish the existing room.

Here's where challenge #1 is. Popcorn ceilings! Yes, it has asbestos. House was built in 1973. Sigh. So, Ive got an asbestos abatement company coming out on Friday (6/23) to scrape it. Boy, I was tempted to DIY! I flip-flopped on this decision so much. Ive heard, read, and seen many situations where people just wet it, scraped, and lived happily. I finally waffled to fear and paid the $1500 to get it professionally scraped and removed. I dont want to watch because its going to kill me watching someone wet it with a garden sprayer and scrape with a putty knife. I could have done that! Only difference is theyll be in a moon suit, have a negative vacuum going, and everything will be sealed with plastic. Their advice was for me not to demolish anything in the meantime so it would make removal easier. Sigh. Im DYING to rip down the old drywall and see what I have to deal with!

My Equipment
==================
Panasonic AE900
Yamaha RX-v2600 Receiver
Panasonic RP62S DVD
DirecTV rcvr (some ancient RCA model. Waiting for the new HR20 to come out like everyone else)
Panasonic SVHS VCR - going in the trash once the DirecTV HR20 comes out. :)
Playstation 2
Klipsch KSW-12 Subwoofer

Available for use if designs permit
==========================
B&W 603S Speakers

And if designs dictate otherwise..
=========================
B&W M1 (going for 7.1 surrounds). This is my fallback plan. Mount the 3 fronts on the ceiling in front of the fireplace. 2 on the side ceiling (duct work is dictating a bit here), and the backs on the wall. Even if I get away with using the 603s in front, Ill still be getting some of these little guys for the side and rear speakers.

I do have a pair of Bose bookshelf speakers. In a pinch I suppose I could use them as the side speakers. Id probably bury them in the wall a bit so they dont get in the way.

Purchased in my mind...
====================
Elite Cinetension 84"D - Matte White -OR- Elite EZ-frame 84" D - Matte White

Notes
====================
Some people favored getting equipment later rather than sooner. I favored getting the projector beforehand to play around with it in the room and get a feel for projecting (on the red brick). We projected on one of the side walls for awhile. 30 yr old white (now grayish yellow) paint still made me go "WOW!" This is after years of thinking a 27" TV was "big enough." Man that 27" is HEAVY!!!!

Challenge #2
=============
HVAC! Ive never had to really deal with adding/modifying HVAC in my house. I did replace a dryer vent and installed a new Panasonic Whisper fan in my bathroom remodel. Does that qualify? Anyway, my den has a big heating duct box that runs the entire 22' length in a ceiling corner. It drops down about 1.5' from the ceiling. Its a big plywood box that covers the duct and then drywalled (and asbestosed over that with popcorn). Not sure what to do with that. I did find there is a 3" gap in the side wall of the box covering the duct. Is it code to run low voltage wiring alongside duct? Ive toyed with building a soffit for all my wiring, but Id prefer not to if I can get all the wires in the ceiling. Going alongside the duct would help that. My windows get in the way of making a real nice soffit. Ive got about 4" to make a soffit on the ceiling before hitting a window. Cant wait to post pics so everyone can see what Im saying. A couple more posts to go!

Ok, Ive made my 5 posts. Let there be links and pics!

Here's my fireplace proposal #1 where Id like to reuse my B&W 603s. Im definitely interested in what everyone thinks of this. Ill post the floor plan soon. Still fiddling around with Visio...

This pic shows some 4" oak or cherry wood columns that Id like to build to drop the speaker wire down to the B&W's. Id drop speaker wire behind the screen to get to the center speaker. In this situation, I would need a center speaker thats not very deep and easy to mount on the masonry. The Infinity 4000 has a nice low profile. Anyone ever use this center?

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m8/drostowsky/fire-visio1.png

Here's a pic of the back wall my buddy said I should really put my screen. The window overlooks (or maybe underlooks is the better word), the belly of my deck. No big loss if the window is covered up with something. I agree this is a good wall for it, but the fireplace is then at my back, and puts a wrench in my 2nd row idea (i.e. the back row would butt up against the hearth).

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m8/drostowsky/Back-visio1.png

To the right of the fireplace was a closet. I will rebuild the closet for my equipment. Ive used a Panasonic Whisper fan in my bathroom remodel so I found it enlightening to hear others using it in their closets/cabinets. Not sure where itll vent to, but to the right of the closet is the outside wall (near the main entrance to the house). I wont really have access behind the closet. Its the storage space underneath my stairs, and there isnt much headroom for anyone to really manuever back there.

I would like to put my subwoofer at the bottom of the closet. I have a Klipsch KSW-12. Its a nice middle of the road woof with good enough boom for me. Anyone ever do such a thing before? Im interested in knowing if the woofer is going to be rattling my equipment.

The closet runs floor to ceiling. Used to have some bi-fold doors on top and bottom, but Ive ripped those off. Ill have 7'9" to play with, so Im hoping to get some drawers in it for DVDs, CDs, random junk, etc.

Not sure if Ill hide the closet behind a door or anything. Maybe a glass door. Ill cross that bridge when the time comes.

I would like to build the closet shelving with cabinet grade wood that I can stain. Each shelf would be a slider so that might help make up for the lack of rear access (if youll pardon the expression). :) I like stained wood and dont mind making the equipment closet visible to people. Hey, I paid good money for this equipment! Why hide it?! :)

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m8/drostowsky/EquipmentCloset1.png

I like the idea of the screen on the fireplace. Another thought to consider could be a small stagelike area built on the hearth space, it could encompass the entire hearth and extend into the firebox. This could help eliminate those columns by running the wires to the left of the closet and up through the stage area. 2ndly would raise the speakers up more to ear level and possibly also hold the center channel in the firebox hole up more to ear level. Could also provide a wider soundstage by giving almost another foot of separation for your front L and R speakers. Eliminating those columns might also allow a slightly bigger screen.

Great ideas Solodon! Precisely why I decided Id start a thread! I need more brains helping me! :)

Not sure if Ill be able to use the extra space for a screen. Will have to search around a bit more. The 84" diagonals seemed to be the best fit. Cant remember if the next size up was too big or not.

Thats interesting about the stage idea. Basically, I would hide the firebox entirely behind it? Will have to test the W.A.F. on that. ;) I had mulled over getting some nice glass doors installed on it, but the opening is so non-standard that Id have to get some custom made doors for it. Thats typically a $1000 expense (if you want nice doors anyway). I wouldnt mind covering that up myself since we rarely ever used it. I think I burned wood in it twice in the 12+ years we've lived here. That room has some excellent temp control where its the warmest room in winter and coolest in summer. Didnt plan it that way, but it sort of works out. Never really needed it. My upstairs fireplace in the living room is the one that gets used.

The more I think about it, maybe that would be good. I could then use my B&W center speaker too! Whoopie! Cost savings is a good thing. I could make some shelves or something if we wanted to put some nicknacks or media there too.

Thanks for the thoughts!

So here's my basic floor plan. Is 6' deep enough for a 2nd row? I just sat on my sofa and stretched out good to make a guess that it would work pretty well. The only drawback is the back row would be against the back wall. Im not too worried about it unless someone out there thinks this would be a very bad thing to do acoustically speaking.

Now you should be able to see that if I flipped the room so our backs were to the fireplace that the 2nd row becomes a problem. I suppose I could move the first row forward a bit more, but was trying to make that as optimal per the screen width * 1.5 rule.

Where does everyone get those cool Visio shapes? Ha. My Visio had some really generic sofas. Id actually like to consider an "L" shaped sofa (i.e. wraparound) on the first row. Adds more capacity, and I think it would work stylistically too.

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m8/drostowsky/FloorPlan.png

sweet galaga cocktail, did you build it or is it an original?

Haha. Thanks for noticing! It was an original that I rebuilt. Its got a real wood veneer on it now instead of the original plastic laminate. I replaced the graphics under the glass, gave it a new power supply, replaced video chips, new fan, new joystick, buttons, etc. All replacements were true to the original machine. It was a fun project. It is a sweet machine now. Ill post a couple of close ups when I get a sec. Its my personal all-time favorite video game. My first paycheck after graduating college went for that. Didnt even have a chair to sit on, but darn it. I had GALAGA! :D

Oh yeah, I forgot. Its even got new tempered glass on it. Its a beauty! My first "baby."

I like the way you've put dimensions on your photos. Very efficently informative.

Thanks. Takes a little time to put together, but wanted to make sure I gave enough info so people could help me think this through properly.

Nothing too interesting here, but should help keep the pictures flowing to help complete the mental image of the room space. It does show where the lighting controls will be located. There are currently 2 light switches here. One for each light fixture. I could never figure out why it was that way as the room was always so dark that both lights needed to be on to see anything. Drugs were obviously more widely (ab)used in the 1970s...

I guess the important point here is the duct that drops down about 11" from the ceiling. Most people over 6' tall get the paranoid feeling that theyll bash their forehead on the duct when walking in. Cant wait to rip the ceiling open so I can assess what (if anything) can be done to help this out.

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m8/drostowsky/Entry.png

So this is the wall where lots of interesting things will no doubt occur.

Theres a fairly big window here to contend with. It used to have a roman shade here which rendered the room pitch black even in bright daylight. Not much sun to worry about in Seattle area. :) Ive taken the shade down as it was really falling apart after 30 years, but I will get a nice new one. I used to think the room being so dark was a curse, but that roman blind really helps for the home theatre application! Im not so fanatical as to drywall off perfectly good windows either. I replaced those windows with 2 pane windows a few years ago. Not about to drywall those babies off!

You can see where the satellite feed came in to the house. The line was drilled through the outside wall straight into that jack. Its up so high on the wall because they were either lazy when they built the house, put it in after the drywall was up, or the foundation of the house got in the way. In any event, that and the phone line will have to be pushed over to the equipment closet. Ill have to figure that out once I can see behind those accursed walls.

Another problem spot is the heat register on the floor. You can see I marked off where Id like to have a wall sconce, but I cant imagine that being code if the electrical was near the heating duct that Im sure runs right up the wall to where I want the sconce. I can live without the sconce, but it would help balance the room out with 3 sconces on the opposite wall (maybe). There used to be a wall clock there which I found invaluable. Maybe itll go back. Or maybe some other decoration can go there, a picture? I dont know. Thats a decision that can wait.

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m8/drostowsky/BigWindow.png

By the way, around where my phone line is currently, Id love to build a little in-wall cabinet for housing my PS2. Id definitely want an AV outlet there for it at a minimum, but if it had a little cubbie for storing my games, controllers, and PS2, that would be great! Probably a conduit for the PS3 too, when I get that. Would love to hook up the PS2 against that wall, and be able to comfortably sit in the first row without dealing with super long wires for the controllers going into the equipment closet. Ive played with many wireless controllers, but they never felt responsive enough. Besides, I play online quite a bit and use a headset, so those are just more wires to deal with.

Been mulling over Solodon's good advice about building some cabinetry to house the front speakers. Got the wife thumbs up as long as its all removeable when selling the house. I figured I could build a red oak frame box around the hearth that I can slide over the hearth and off again if needed.

On the top, I can just put some oak plywood with some edgebanding.

On the front, I can put a base molding and then some cabinet/drawer fronts along the front face to make it look like cabinets.

On top of the hearth, then we can build the cabinet thatll have openings for the L/R and center speakers. If I build it correctly, I think I can put in a bunch of drawers for storing my DVD's and CD's. That would be great.

Need to draw it up in Visio, or maybe better put my 3D Studio to the test.

Happy Fathers Day!

Just a quick interjection about the greatest video game of all time, and the only game in my home theatre's arcade. Not sure where Ill put it when the HT is done, but Ill make room! :)

I bought this baby in 1994 for $400. Since then, I rebuilt it almost entirely.

Heres what got modified (or didnt):
Galaga Serial #1262
Original circuit board
New video RAM (those were a treat to find :rolleyes: )
New power supply
New fan
New replica joysticks
New replica buttons
Repainted original glass clips
New 1/4" tempered glass (beautiful)
New graphics underlay
Ripped off plastic laminate from original plywood cabinet. Taking off that plastic was a PAIN!
Glued on walnut wood veneer 10 ply paper backed
I stained it with red mahogany. It looks like the original color (but better IMHO). Reflections from the red carpet make it look redder than it is. Its really a nice dark brown ala 1970s molding (I should know, my house was covered with it).
New lock
Spray painted original coin return
Spray painted original vents
New corner guards
New T-molding
Spray painted metal under joystick controls on each side
Original monitor. The reason I bought it. 0 screen burn.

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m8/drostowsky/gal3.jpg
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m8/drostowsky/gal2.jpg
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m8/drostowsky/gal1.jpg
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m8/drostowsky/gal4.jpg

Yay! The popcorn is gone! The blocking item to my demolishing my room for the home theatre is removed! Let the demo begin! Know what Im doing this weekend.

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m8/drostowsky/asbestos2.jpg
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m8/drostowsky/asbestos1.jpg

Now that I can peek into my big ducts vents, I can see theres a specific heating duct line and probably a separate return duct in the big plywood box. The return vent is running against the wall, and the heat duct is the one nearest to the room. Cant wait to see where the return lines branch off. I suspect one comes from upstairs. I do have the one return in the HT room, but it wouldnt make much sense to run a big huge 12" duct just for one silly 8" return vent. My suspicion is the HT will have to just live with the HVAC the way it is. However, I will probably call in a HVAC expert to fill me in if anything could be done.

Im excited to see what mysteries lie behind my walls!

Say hello to my new addition. The DeWalt DW682K biscuit joiner. I went to town with it immediately. Adjusted the depth a bit when I did my first #20 cuts. I practiced doing my first end piece joining. I know Ill be doing this join when I build the oak plywood box around my hearth. Im going to do the same thing again tonight, but 45 degree the joining edges first. I think thatll be a cleaner look and I wont have to worry about edgebanding it.

That board the joiner is laying on has about 25 slots cut into it, but its on the backside. :)

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m8/drostowsky/joiner.jpg

Best of luck with your theater!

Gary

Thanks Gary. I found your thread quite informative. I may just borrow a construction idea or two from your risers. Mine wont be nearly as big, but I like how you ran the conduit through it and built a little frame area on the front for the outlets.

With the help of my nephew, we took down all the side walls today! Wow, what a load of junk. My garage is filled with garbage sacks of busted up drywall. We also pulled up the carpet too. We left the carpet pad for no particular reason. Seemed easier on the feet. :)

We found a treasure in the walls though! A built in 3.5" soffit! It runs from the equipment closet, above the bookcase and windows all the wall around the room until it hits the duct. Wow, its SO perfect for running cables! I could put a 2" conduit in there for my projector wires. It does get tight going around the heat duct between the bookcase and window. Thats the only issue really, but this is great news!

Here's some pics that show the soffit. Theyre ordered such they basically move from left to right when looking at the room. One closeup pic is my camera in the soffit space looking down this great space.

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m8/drostowsky/soffit1.jpg
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m8/drostowsky/soffit2.jpg

Im in the soffit!
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m8/drostowsky/soffit3.jpg

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m8/drostowsky/soffit4.jpg
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m8/drostowsky/soffit5.jpg

So here's the big picture of the room.
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m8/drostowsky/room1-1.jpg
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m8/drostowsky/room2-1.jpg

Check out the honking 6x6's holding up the house! Kind of hard to see the far one in the pic, but its there.
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m8/drostowsky/room4-1.jpg

Heres the bottom of the electrical closet. My equipments electricity!
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m8/drostowsky/room6.jpg

Heres the right side of the fireplace (left inside of the equipment closet)
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m8/drostowsky/room5.jpg

My nephew is keen to come over tomorrow. Ah, the boundless energy of teens. We'll drop the ceiling. Hopefully not on our heads. Ditto for the drywall + plywood box covering the overhead duct. If we have time, take out the insulation too. Im almost hesitant to pull the insulation. Its in great shape. Will have to get to the electrical though eventually. My brother in law is coming over with his pickup so we can make a run to the trash dump with my garage full of junk.

BTW, I dont have a pic yet of it, but below the windows theres a little concrete "shelf" too. Its where the foundation wasnt as deep to make room for the windows. I noticed peeking behind the insulation that the electrical is run on this little "shelf." Interesting.

Well, demolition day #2 is in the books. 5 hours yesterday plus 5 hours today. The ceiling is pulled down as well as the insulation removed. Just me and my nephew going to town on it. We yanked 98% of the nails out of the studs. We also removed the carpet pad too. Later in the day my brother in law came over with his big truck and we loaded it up with everything! Whew! What a pile! He's a landscaper so he's used to hauling big loads in his truck. He helped us remove all the carpet tacks too. The floor is in its bare concrete glory now. My wife came down later and swept up most of the little bits and pieces. Will need to run over everything with the ShopVac to pick up the remaining junk aroud. As far as Im concerned the demolition is 99% done. I see a few nails here and there in the studs, but really its ready for construction!

Now that I can see most of the electrical wires. I can start to noodle through how to hang some recessed lighting. Need to crank out a drawing for it, and then see if I can figure out the rats nest of electrical wires everywhere. Whew. There are wires going every which way. Completely nonsensical right now. I cant see how it made any intuitive sense to the original electrician!

Will post pics later.

The next project. Fiddling around with my biscuit joiner and some scrap wood. Joined the 1x4' pieces with a #0 biscuit after a 45 degree miter cut. Thatll be what I want to use on the oak plywood box around the hearth.

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m8/drostowsky/room4.jpg

Junk Piles before my brother in law arrived with his truck for a run to the dump!

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m8/drostowsky/room1.jpg
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m8/drostowsky/room2.jpg

Heres a nice clean room (almost) after sweeping and cleaning up a bit more at the end of a long day.

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m8/drostowsky/room3.jpg

Looks like fun no doubt. Clean up is the worst part, but it is far nicer to work in a clean area than a messy one. Great progress, looking forward to watching your thread.

Drew

Thanks for watching! Ive been enjoying your thread for a bit. I bookmarked your riser construction last night as its almost exactly the perfect model for mine! Yours is just a bit bigger. :)

It was a busy weekend. Tearing down drywall is relatively easy, its definitely the clean up thats the pain!

Looking good David. Cleaning up drywall is indeed a chore, although I'd take drywall over 100 yr old plaster and lathe as I had in my last house. Thankfully when I start my theater later this year it will be in a brand new basement with no drywall OR plaster!

Keep up the good work.

Thanks. Plaster would be the pits! Ugh.

The best feeling was when we got the truck all loaded up with everything and off to the dump it went. Hurrah! My BIL's truck has a dump on it, so he just backs it up to the pit, pulls a lever, and out everything slides. Easy.

Tonight, Ill continue cleaning up any leftover dust, drywall bits, and pulling forgotten nails. Spend some quality time in the room figuring out the mess of electrical wiring thats currently there, and plotting my next moves. Have a family vacation most of July so Im hesitant to start ordering a ton of cables, lighting fixtures, etc. Will probably idle a bit until we get back toward end July and then Ill be ready to really kick it in to high gear!

Need to get a mop in there to soak down the rest of the dust. Wife is just crazy about dust as it is, so "my" drywall dust has her glaring at it menacingly. :)

Snuck in some more cleanup between play session with the kids. Got my Shop Vac and hand brush on top of the window "soffitts." Discovered a ton of drywall bits up there that I hadnt gotten to. Pulled out the rest of the carpet tack strips too.

Took my son with me to Lowes to get a pile of the Carlon Adjustable electrical boxes. Those things are a dream! How many times have I kicked myself for not positioning the electrical box correctly and then the drywall gets put on top and its too deep or too shallow?! The drywaller will have fun remembering too not try and put a screw where the Carlon brackets go over the face of the stud, but thatll be their issue, not mine. :)

I couldnt resist putting one of the boxes on the stud really quick. Punted the old phone connector. Got 50' of 4 condcutor telephone wire. The phone line in the HT right now needs to be split off. One goes into the equipment closet, and another into the back adjoining room where my new home office is. The "main" one in the room can stay where its at. I have no issue with that. Im not so picky as to not have a phone in my HT. Not having enough functional phone jacks in my house has been a curse of my existence anyway so I take every opportunity I can get to line some new lines when I can. 5.8GHz wireless phones have rendered the problem a little moot, but still like to have options for the DSL wireless modem! At any rate, I connected up the new 50' telephone wire to my new phone jack and will run it over my soffitts and into the home office when I get a chance.

For anyone thats keeping score, I mounted the box 13" off the ground. Seemed to be where the existing outlets in the room were and it seemed good enough for me.

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m8/drostowsky/phone1.png

BTW, that box has one more line to be run! The one to the equipment closet. Ill get to that soon enough! :) Home office was priority #1! My PC is on a wireless link set upstairs and the signal strength is low. Want to relocate the router downstairs in the office ASAP!

I plan on putting 3 sconces along what Im calling the "hallway" wall. Its the entry way that should help create the HT ambiance (since the opposite wall is all window and bookshelf). You can see the sconces marked with blue tape, and the wall boxes on the floor there.

Each sconce is positioned 65" apart. Length of wall is ~260". I want to build columns in between them so that means 4 columns 32" from the sconces. Im not sure on the size of the columns yet, but 12"w x 6" deep seems reasonable. Will have to build a mockup to sample different sizes. Hopefully, some others can chime in on "proper" column sizes.

Sorry, couldnt fit the entire wall in the picture, but this should demonstrate it all.

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m8/drostowsky/sconce1a.png

Woo-hoo! Got my latest woodworking tool. 8 36" clamps! I got all 8 of these on Ebay for the same price I would have paid for 1 at the big boxes (and thats including s/h). Yeah, I can glue my own boards together now! :) These are going to be handy in building the entertainment center over the fireplace (and shelves for the equipment closet).

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m8/drostowsky/clamps.png

I also got a sample of Linacoustic in the mail today from JohnsManville. You can request a sample on their website. Cool. Now I can see how thick it really is. The sample is probably 8.5"x11" in size. Its the 1" thick liner. Its definitely thicker than a 1"x4". It compresses easily, but I imagine itll make the fabric stapling a little more tricky since that would have to be pretty tight. Now I see why people rip their own furring strips on a table saw. Thats way down the road for me now. I need to call the sales rep of Johns Manville and figure out where I can get this in WA.

When I got my asbestos removed last week, I took down the old 1973 light fixtures under the landing at the bottom of my stairs to the basement, and in the hallway downstairs between the HT and the back rooms.

Today I put up some simple replacement fixtures. Nothing too fancy, but still a challenge. I opened the ceiling with a hand drywall saw, and about 1" of dust fell right in my face. It was right out of the Three Stooges style!

The original builder failed to center the electrical box on the wall. It was actually crammed into a corner. I dont know why. Plenty of space to center it! It was only 13" away from being centered! So I installed a new one (centered on the ceiling), but had to open the ceiling more than I would have liked. Oh well, the drywall guy will probably just replace the entire spot. Its not much drywall to replace the whole section. 3'x3' (and thats being generous).

Here's the new light at the bottom of the stairs. See how the old outlet is crammed back there?!

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m8/drostowsky/lights.png

Heres a perspective of the same light, but Im at the bottom of the stairs looking up.

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m8/drostowsky/lights1.png

This pic, Im at the bottom of the stairs and looking into the little hallway that branches 3 ways. Rar right is bathroom/laundry room. Middle goes to back rooms being my office and exercise room. Far left goes into the HT. I guess I should revise that because theres a storage space under the stairs. Technically, I guess that makes 4 ways to go. The "hall" has the other new light too to replace the 1970's hilarious light. Should have taken a pic of it, but its in the dump now...

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m8/drostowsky/hall1.png

All in all, nothing fancy, but just some stuff that I had to get done. I was conditioned to flicking on both those lights as I went downstairs and it got old real fast, not having those lights in place! ;)

Still got one more of the old lights to do. Thats the light above the door to the storage under the stairs. It used to have a dual spotlight thing hanging there. It was 1970s ugly too, but I gotta admit it was a really good light for the cramped space there. I may just find an updated version. Didnt see anything at HD or Lowes when I got the other lights. Will make a trip to Seattle Lighting to see if I can pick up something easily. Im not overly concerned with making any of those lights fancy. They just need to supply a little bit a light and not stick out like the sore thumbs that used to be there. (i.e. I could hear the Brady Bunch theme song when I looked at the old lights). :)

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m8/drostowsky/lights3.png

Ok, as Ive mentioned previously, Im not a professional electrician, but I play one at my house. :) Ive wired up lights in other rooms, but this had to give me some pause when I first saw it! My first thought was, 4 wires into one junction box?! What the heck (insert stronger language)?!!! At first I thought there was no way Id figure it out without calling an electrician, but I stared at it long enough and I figured out where everything is going. Before I rip this baby apart, Im labeling all the wires and drawing a picture. If I mess it up when I put in the recessed lights, Ill at least be able to restore the original mess.

So, this is the front light wiring situation.

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m8/drostowsky/front-ht-light.png

Here's a Visio drawing I did once I deciphered the wires for the current front light in the HT.

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m8/drostowsky/front-ht-light1.png

By doing this exercise, I should be able to come up with a plan on how to connect up the 6 50W recessed lights that I plan on getting. I have a plan for the light positioning. Visio drawing coming soon... Stay tuned!

I plan on using 6 6" Recessed Halo (or maybe Juno) cans with black reflective trims. Those will be on a 600W Lutron dimmer (IR controlled).

The wall sconces arent picked out yet, but theyll be on a 2nd Lutron dimmer (also IR controlled).

Heres the plan to show the light positioning. I originally had 8 smaller cans placed, but they seemed to get in the way of the low voltage wiring so I decided on the bigger cans and less of them. I could space them out a bit further and the joist locations worked out better. Originally, two lights were on the same joist as I was planning on having the projector in. Whoops! I would have had the low voltage crossing the high voltage, not to mention the recessed light just getting in the way with the conduit to the projector and other low voltage wires.

I made a lunchtime HD shopping run today to check out the recessed lights. I know what I want now with the Halo airtight recessed cans, so Ill probably take my little helper 7 yr old son with me and make a return trip tonight to purchase them (when the crowds have filtered down).

Hopefully, some more experienced people can chime in on recessed lighting spacing. I did some due diligence on the web, and the spacing seems reasonable to me. I wanted to keep them in line with the back window and fireplace just to keep the sight-lines straight. The main duct truck of course is in the way too so I cant really shift them any more close to that.

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m8/drostowsky/Recessed.png

The clock is ticking to our two week FL vacation so Im more or less just doing whatever little work I can.

Ripped out the old solid walnut bookcase. Ill give them one thing back in the 70s. They used REAL wood! It was stained ugly, but the wood was solid! Moldings and all! I will rebuild the bookcase with our "new age" oak plywood. Going to be a bit deeper than the 8" the old was to make up for the Linacoustic + GOM.

Im visualizing the new bookcase to have the bottom ledge be the top railing for mission style wainscoting. Havent made up my mind there, but its a little more than 48" from the floor so its higher than your standard chair rail height, but if done right, could look nice and blend the lower and upper parts of the room together.

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m8/drostowsky/bookcase.png

Heres a closeup of the notched studs. Ill probably put a flat 2x4 next to them to provide some support for the next bookcase.

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m8/drostowsky/notch.png

I called Johns Manville today to inquiry about Linacoustic. Specifically, I wanted to know the minimum air clearance needed if I used it inside of my 10"x3.25" ducts :eek: Yes, inside a duct! Foreign concept for this forum. ;) Looking at my existing ducts, theyre not even flush with the wall and could use some sound dampening in general anyway. The current duct sticks out a bit too from the stud which Im sure caused a bit of a bulge in the old drywall. Not that I ever noticed, but now that I know, Ill always notice unless I fix it. :) I saw at HD some nice shiny 10x3.25" sheet duct, so I may rebuild them so I can insulate the inside for noise. I noticed they echo quite easily so that would be a good way to help some acoustics too. Yea, Ill be using Linacoustic + GOM on the outside of the wall, but cant hurt to use the product the way it was meant to be either.

If I used the 1" Linacoustic on the inside 10x3.25" duct, then I get 1.25" airflow. That didnt sound right so I wanted to verify thats not going to cause me HVAC grief. The sales rep didnt have an immediate answer, so he gave me a technical contact, but being the 4th of July weekend and all, the guy wasnt available, so Ill call again on Wed.

They gave me a couple of local distributors that sell Linacoustic so thats good news. Anyone in Seattle area looking for it can send me a private msg and I can forward the contact info.

Happy 4th!

Lots of rest and FL hot and humid for me the next couple of weeks. That said, with all the packing and stuff not much has happened in the HT this week. I did get 6 Airtight Juno recessed lights and hung them.

Heres the trim I got:
http://www.lampsplus.com/Products/s_line-voltage-120v-trim/page_2/02483/

Here are the recessed lights:
http://www.lampsplus.com/Products/s_line-voltage-120v-ic-housing/02472/

After hanging them and thinking about it for awhile, I think I want to put the front two cans on a separate dimmer than the back 4. I can see theyll be good when we're not watching the screen for general room lighting, but Im sure to want them completely off when watching something on the screen. Plus, that also allows my wife, kids, or me to have the back 4 cans on low for reading or whatever as we're idly watching TV. The rear 4 cans will give good coverage for all the seating, so the front 2 can be completely off for better screen visibility.

Havent decided if the front 2 will be on the same dimmer as the wall sconces or not, because the wall sconces are in a similar boat. Wouldnt want them on all the time. Does anyone keep their sconces on while watching movies for ambience?

Ill have lots of time tomorrow on the planes from Seattle to Tampa to think about this. :)

See ya in a few weeks, and then the FUN really starts!

Hurray, Im back from fun in the sun (and humidity) of FL! 2 weeks of baking in the morning and hiding from the thunderstorms in the afternoon. Life is good!

I couldnt wait to get back and into the groove. I ordered a ton of stuff today including a Bosch 4000-09 table saw (http://bosch.cpotools.com/new_arrivals/4000-09.html) . Thats going to be sweet! Drooooool!

Also, got under my spider infested deck to check out the satellite cabling situation. Not bad. Spidery! Waspy! Dusty! However, the cabling actually made sense to me immediately. I have a dual LNB dish that Ive never really maximized its use, but I will with the HT. One LNB was going upstairs and the other downstairs to the HT room. I will get a splitter (probably a Monster (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00003CWG2/sr=8-1/qid=1153349171/ref=pd_bbs_1/103-9346540-1050225?ie=UTF8))
and run both those into the HT. I ordered up 200' of Monster RG6 cable and connectors for it.

- Connectors (http://www.crutchfield.com/S-VFsGQlXNR97/cgi-bin/ProdView.asp?g=15220&I=119FCRG6QH)

- Cables (http://www.crutchfield.com/S-VFsGQlXNR97/cgi-bin/ProdView.asp?g=23114&I=119MVQCL1H)

Here's a pic of the current cabling situation under the deck.
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m8/drostowsky/Satellite-Cables.png

I hope you know that you can not split satellite LNB signals with a common splitter. If you have Directv you can call them and they will come out and install a new dish with 4 outputs for free. if you have Dish they do offer some sort of splitting system but it's far more involved than the splitter you quoted there. That splitter is more designed for cable systems. anyway, it's still best to run the two cables from under the deck but don't buy that splitter. Just trying to help.

hoye0017 is correct - either get updated dish with 4 outputs or use a proper satellite splitter

http://akamaipix.crutchfield.com/products/2002/209/t209BMS34.gif

Cheers,
Mark

Thanks for the info! i knew I couldnt use a lot of the splitters out there for satellite, but wasnt sure exactly what off the shelf ones would apply best for my DirecTV system. Most will say "Dont use on satellite" so Id run from those. The Monster happened to be the first I ran across that didnt. I have DirecTV so I will give them a call and see if they come out and change out my rather old dish for an updated 4 output dish. I knew the splitter was dicey so thats why I havent ordered one yet as I needed some more research/help. Also, I hesitated on the Monster since it didnt really say it was for outdoor use. As you can see on my existing wiring, it got blasted with paint and sawdust (from my deck build). Kind of figured if it didnt say it was for outdoor then it must not be. Thank you! :)

Ooops. Guess my pic didnt show up. Will fix that later...

Went out and did some research yesterday to find where I would get my lumber for building the entertainment center over the fireplace, equipment closet, moldings, etc. I was pretty much resolved to using red oak because that seemed to be the only hardwood available at HD that I could get plywood & matching moldings. However, I discovered a tiny hole in the wall in Redmond that has all sorts of GREAT hardwoods available.

Hardwood Supply - Redmond WA (http://www.hardwoodssupply.com/)

Heaven!!!! :)

So now Im reversing myself a bit and may just go for all cherry hardwood. They had everything I needed. Yea, Im sure to pay a pretty penny for all of this, but Im growing eye weary from seeing every house up here use red oak. Its nice and Ive used a ton in my house already, but it sure would be nice to have the HT be a bit different.

They did explain to me how HD can sell oak (and cherry) plywood for $50 per 4x8x0.75. They import the plywood and there are few standards of quality on it apparently. Under the veneer, they can use wood that has all sorts of holes in it. They said you can run your fingers over the veneer and press into a hole occasionally. Apparently, veneered plywood made in the US follows quality standards and the underlying wood has no holes in it so its much stronger. I guess that explains why their 4x8x0.75" plywood was twice the price as HD. I saw that in other local lumber yards too and couldnt figure out why they were so much more expensive.

Ive started to visualize in my mind how I want to build my columns and do my moldings. Will need to draw it up on Visio before too long. Im going for some classic designs with the bottom of the columns being a boxed mission style going up to a 36" chair rail and the top being a fluted style.

David,

You are super charged baby! I don't see how you made it through your vacation chomping at the bit to get back to this project. :)

Haha, thanks. Yea, it was difficult.

Ill have to post some pics from a psuedo-HT I saw in FL. We visited a planetarium in Bradenton, FL. It had been forever since Ive been to a planetarium so I went nuts when I saw it was a big HT in disguise. It had all the HT elements with GOM fabric (blue swizzle stick pattern), step lighting, rope lighting, etc. Granted, they had the ultimate screen being a gigantic domed screen. It was cool and had me chompin at the bit to get back home!

I enjoyed my vacation immensely, but Im glad to be back!

Got a new toy too that had me Tim Allen grunting all day long. A Dewalt hammer drill (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002AJKOK/qid=1153621612/sr=1-3/ref=sr_1_3/103-9346540-1050225?%5Fencoding=UTF8&s=hi&v=glance&n=228013) . Put on the 5/8" boring bit and plowed through those studs for running the 12/2 electrical like butter. There just wasnt enough for me to drill! That should make life easier when I have to sink some anchors into the fireplace masonry for the screen.

Busy day today. Its 95 degrees outside so I welcomed a day working in my relatively cool basement. Worked on the electrical a bit today. Installed all new outlets and the Carlon adjustable boxes everywhere! Im one short so need to make a HD trip. Laughably it was the power that I was going to supply to the projector! Ha, oops, I miscounted that one.

I used GFCI outlets on the walls along the foundation. Probably not necessary, but might as well be as "code" as I can be.

Wired up an outlet for the thermostat in the closet. Got a Honeywell (http://www.air-n-water.com/product/TL7230A1004.html) thermostat on order. I paid a bit more as I couldnt find diddly at HD or Lowes that made me happy. I wanted one with an on/off switch as I could see wanting to kill the fan when I go on vacation or something.

Also got a Panasonic Whisper Fit 50CFM (http://www.rewci.com/pafv05.html) on order so Im looking forward to getting the ventilation taken care of in a week. My 4" hole saw attachement for my drill is waiting!

Still need to order some dimmers (not sure on brand yet, probably just get Lutrons with the IR). I decided on 3 dimmers. 1 for sconces, 1 for the front 2 recessed, and 1 for back 4 recessed lights. I may just hire an electrician to deal with it and the current ceiling circuit is a mess. I know my limits. I figured out the existing wiring a bit, but I dont have a good plan for how Id wire up the lighting correctly. Its probably good money well spent.

Here are a few "home theatre" pics I took while on vacation of the Planetarium in Bradenton Florida (http://www.southfloridamuseum.org/planetarium/default.html). The one bad part of the planetarium was the sound systems suffered from high voltage buzz! Huuuuummmmmmmmmmm. Boy, that was a reminder to me to hook up all my AV and test before the drywall goes up!

Check out this cool blue light they had in the base moldings all along the walls. Id love to find a few of those. Nice touch I thought.
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m8/drostowsky/Planetarium/planetarium1.jpg

They had blue rope lights encircling the entire dome.
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m8/drostowsky/Planetarium/planetarium2.jpg

Hmm, carpet as an acoustic treatment on the wall.
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m8/drostowsky/Planetarium/planetarium3.jpg

I liked the stain color they used. This was one of the columns in the entry leading into the theatre.
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m8/drostowsky/Planetarium/planetarium4.jpg

Hand railing in entry to theatre. I thought the crazy squiggles was an interesting touch too.
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m8/drostowsky/Planetarium/planetarium5.jpg

There must be Milano Blue in here somewhere!!! This was painted on the ceiling in the entrance to the theatre. Id LOVE to have this painted on my ceiling!!!!
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m8/drostowsky/Planetarium/planetarium6.jpg

Thats it, I need to check out the blue rope light!!!

BTW, that material on the wall is GOM. It's the material Ronnie is using in his theater.

Bud

I think they call that GOM pattern, "Swizzle Stick", right? It was great to see it up close and personal. I liked it. Itll be on my "consideration list" when I get around to that part of the project. Just thought the plush carpet on the bottom part was different.

I know how you feel. The blue rope lighting (and blue step lights) created a great atmosphere in the room.

I think its called "Network Shapphire".

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=7624479&&#post7624479

Bud

Ok, I'm waffling on spending money for an electrician on the recessed lighting. I FINALLY sat down and figured out a reasonable wiring diagram for the front recessed lights. Need to figure out the rear 4 recessed lights. Front 2 cans are on 1 dimmer and the back 4 will be on another dimmer.

Heres my funky wiring diagram for the front 2 recessed lights. The big colored squares represent wiring nuts. The main power source for all the lighting comes in from the ceiling near the equipment closet. Probably more above the old bookshelf actually.

The part I really just loath is having to wire 3 or 4 #12 gauge wires into a wiring nut. Its one of those tasks where its best that children not be around me. ;)

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m8/drostowsky/Electrical/FrontWiring.png

Will work on the rear 4 wiring diagram next. Glad I got something I feel comfortable with now.

Hopefully, someone with electrician experience can chime in and tell me if this is hideously bad or not.

BTW, I also waffled on my electrical outlets too. The equipment closet and all the outlets are currently (oh pun) on a 15A circuit. This circuit also supplies power to my PC's (plural as in 2 separate) and guitar amp that is in my home office. So all my equipment is on one circuit including the projector. So, today I got nervous about all that load and I may just have an electrician put a 20A circuit on there. Thatll make me sleep better (I hope). Of course, I can always hook up everything and see if I can trip the breaker or not. Thats always fun. Anyway, I plan on swapping out all my 15A outlets (that I put in Saturday) with 20A outlets. What the hay!

Havent reviewed this thoroughly or thought if this is the most convenient way of wiring, but I think it works.

Here's the rear recessed lights wiring diagram. I put the screen on there just for some left/right perspective.

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m8/drostowsky/Electrical/RearWiring.png

You seemed to have put a lot of thought into your lighting diagrams. I'm going to be installing some recessed lighting in my small media room, so I'd like to pick your brain.

First, I'll tell you about the room. It's small at only 10' X 13' and so I feel like I only need 4 cans. It's an old house with lost of insulation in the ceiling so I'll be using IC remodel cans. I've looked around and my only options are 6" and 5", so I think I'll go with the 5". I want to run them to two dimmers. 2 cans will be up front near the screen and 2 cans will be in the back near the seating.

I'm a little bewildered by your lighting diagram. I'm not sure I understand why you chose to use 3 wire cable and make it so complex. Why not just use 2 wire and run the lights in series? What is the benefit of using the 3 wire? The only application I've ever seen 3 wire used for is a ceiling fan. It seems overly complex, but I'm just an amateur DIYer so please enlighten me.

Also, I'm curious why you chose to go with the Juno instead of Halo. I'm going to have to special order my cans because neither HD nor Lowe's carries the 5" IC remodel housing. But, I thought I would go with Halo so that it would be easy to change out the trim with stuff from HD if I wanted to play around with different throw patterns. However, if there is a significant benefit to Juno, I'd like to hear about it.

Thanks.

Also, I'm curious why you chose to go with the Juno instead of Halo.

No particular reason to choose one over the other. I happen to have a Juno catalog from previous remodels and Ive used Juno in my kitchen and living room. Juno happened to have the full array of 4", 5", & 6" cans for me to choose from and theyre easily available at most lighting stores.

I'm a little bewildered by your lighting diagram. I'm not sure I understand why you chose to use 3 wire cable and make it so complex. Why not just use 2 wire and run the lights in series? What is the benefit of using the 3 wire? The only application I've ever seen 3 wire used for is a ceiling fan. It seems overly complex, but I'm just an amateur DIYer so please enlighten me.

It probably is overly complex. I certainly dont confess to be an electrician. :) Im hoping with a little more drawing maybe I could use all 2-wires. Going with the 3 wire seemed to help me resolve the delimma of getting the cans on the dimmer while also supplying power to the rear cans and the adjoining rooms. The main #12/2 cable comes in on the opposite side of the room from switches so Id have to go through the front cans to get to the switch and then the switch has to loop back to the front cans to complete the circuit.

I actually got the 3-wire idea from an electrical book I bought at Lowes. They have a bunch of wiring diagrams in the books, and one of them looked similar to my setup.

I hadnt been sucessful in trying to get them all in series with all 2-wire (yet) on a dimmer while still being able to supply power to the other rooms and back cans. Im going to take another crack at it before I put in the wiring though and see if I can simplify it a bit more.

Thanks for asking questions. It helps me try to think it through more! :)

-Dave

It probably is overly complex. I certainly dont confess to be an electrician. :) Im hoping with a little more drawing maybe I could use all 2-wires. Going with the 3 wire seemed to help me resolve the delimma of getting the cans on the dimmer while also supplying power to the rear cans and the adjoining rooms. The main #12/2 cable comes in on the opposite side of the room from switches so Id have to go through the front cans to get to the switch and then the switch has to loop back to the front cans to complete the circuit.

I actually got the 3-wire idea from an electrical book I bought at Lowes. They have a bunch of wiring diagrams in the books, and one of them looked similar to my setup.

I hadnt been sucessful in trying to get them all in series with all 2-wire (yet) on a dimmer while still being able to supply power to the other rooms and back cans. Im going to take another crack at it before I put in the wiring though and see if I can simplify it a bit more.

Thanks for asking questions. It helps me try to think it through more! :)

-Dave


I see. I think your solution makes sense then. Good luck with the wiring. It can be challenging but fun. I certainly have learned a lot while doing the wiring for my small HT. My house is old and has been remodeled several times in the last 50 years. The amazing thing to discover was how much of my wiring was not up to code. It was empowerindg and scary to realize that I could do a more professional job than some of the hack electricians that have worked on my house over the years. The project creep has made everything take a lot longer, because once I get into the wiring, I realize I want to fix all the problems I find. Also going back and fixing the inevitable mistakes takes time too :rolleyes: For example I had installed several receptacles and switches using the pushin connectors. I then read about how weak and pathetic those pushin connectors are. So I went back and reinstalled all of them using screws.

For example I had installed several receptacles and switches using the pushin connectors. I then read about how weak and pathetic those pushin connectors are. So I went back and reinstalled all of them using screws.
Really? Oh boy. I guess I need to do some more reading on them as per my wiring diagrams I have a lot of 4 wires to tie together. Its such a pain to get 3 or 4 wires to tie up with a wiring nut. I found the push-in connectors a couple of days ago and was thinking about using those. Thanks for mentioning that. Ill have to research that now.

Really? Oh boy. I guess I need to do some more reading on them as per my wiring diagrams I have a lot of 4 wires to tie together. Its such a pain to get 3 or 4 wires to tie up with a wiring nut. I found the push-in connectors a couple of days ago and was thinking about using those. Thanks for mentioning that. Ill have to research that now.


Really? I haven't had that much trouble. Make sure you're using the right size wiring nut. With a good pair of lineman's pliers pretwist all of the wires together. Make sure you twist clockwise because that's the way the wiring nut goes on. Then screw on the wiring nut. It might take a little extra time but using wiring nuts, screws and pigtails is the '"right" way to do it.

Really? Oh boy. I guess I need to do some more reading on them as per my wiring diagrams I have a lot of 4 wires to tie together. Its such a pain to get 3 or 4 wires to tie up with a wiring nut. I found the push-in connectors a couple of days ago and was thinking about using those. Thanks for mentioning that. Ill have to research that now. When the electricians came to complete the wiring work I had pulled in my theatre room, I watched how they connected multiple wires together at the switches and outlets. They took a brass/copper colored crimp that I've seen at HD and Lowes and pulled all three or four wires together into it, then they placed a six-inch pigtail wire in the crimp from the other side. At this point, they crimped it all together, then attached the pigtail to the switch or outlet. Because the crimps weren't insulated, they wrapped the connections with either tape of shrink-wrap. Simple, quick, and effective. :)

When the electricians came to complete the wiring work I had pulled in my theatre room, I watched how they connected multiple wires together at the switches and outlets. They took a brass/copper colored crimp that I've seen at HD and Lowes and pulled all three or four wires together into it, then they placed a six-inch pigtail wire in the crimp from the other side. At this point, they crimped it all together, then attached the pigtail to the switch or outlet. Because the crimps weren't insulated, they wrapped the connections with either tape of shrink-wrap. Simple, quick, and effective.

Ah, now we're talking! Excellent info! Thank you! One of my old outlets had the little brass crimp on the ground wire which I duplicated for the other ground wires. Duh, didnt dawn on me I could do the same with the others and a little shirnk wrap/tape. Ah yes, I love it when something gets easier! :D

David, just to reiterate what I.M.Fletcher said, larger (usually yellow with winged tabs) wire nuts are commonly used to handle the hot and neutral wires when so many are brought together. They're pretty large, and can hold three or four wires rather easily if you pre-twist them together with pliers as I.M. mentioned.

My standard disclaimer for all wiring comments:
IANALE - I AM NOT A LICENSED ELECTRICIAN :o

Despite a particularly vicious case of stomach flu (Monday I wanted to die), Im alive and even snuck in an hour on the HT today. While agonizing Tuesday several deliveries arrived.

What came?


Panasonic low profile ceiling fan
Insulated 4" duct for ceiling fan. Boy this thing is fat! More like 7"! Going to be a fit issue in the equipment closet. Probably have to strip off the insulation so I can run the duct and then reapply the insulation and just wrap with duct tape. Will evaluate when the thermostat arrives so I can complete the electrical wiring there.
(2) 50' 2" Resi-gard. One for the game center that'll be in the front of the riser and the other for the projector.


Duct in foreground. 20' yea, Ill be using like 6' of that. Sigh. Resi-gard (and ripped down heat duct) in background.
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m8/drostowsky/Electrical/bath_duct.jpg

I had some "fit" issues behind the heat duct in my psuedo-soffit on the window wall. The 90 degree bend got in the way. I could have forced the Resi-gard to fit by going around the elbow, but it would make life difficult. So, I ripped down that duct, and made the transition from the 6" duct to the 10"x3.5" duct up at the ceiling. Need to get some more 10x3.5" duct and a new boot at the end tomorrow.

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m8/drostowsky/Electrical/heat_duct.jpg

Here's a pick of the "new" fit for the Resi-gard and low voltage wires. Dont have a "before" pick, but it was a LOT tighter. I basically get > 3" now which allows me to "easily" stack the two Resi-gards.

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m8/drostowsky/Electrical/soffit1.jpg

I also started redoing some of my 15A outlets to the 20A outlets. Even hung up the projector outlet! That made me excited since all I need is low voltage and I can show something! I do plan on sawing down those iron support rods near the projector outlet. Theyll be in the way of the projector mount. Yea, I know I should have sawed them down first. Got ahead of myself there (weakened mental state from the stomach flu).

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m8/drostowsky/Electrical/projector_outlet.jpg

Got an email today saying my Bosc 4000-09 table saw will arrive next Monday! Woo-hoo! Gotta borrow a truck and pick up some plywood boards so I can rebuild the bookshelf and rebuild the window boxes.

Got a bunch o' AV cables on the way from monoprice.com too. Hopefully, I can plunk along this week on the high voltage stuff and be done with it completely by end of the weekend (other than getting an electrician put in 20A circuit breaker).

All for now, rest is still calling...

Thanks for the update. I love those Panny fans. I've got several of them in my house. I'm curious though why you got insulated duct for it. All of mine use uninsulated duct. (looks a lot like dryer vent duct) Is this a code issue specific to your area? I can't see the reason for it otherwise.

Yea, I also like the Panny fans a lot too. I couldnt believe how quiet it was when I installed one in my bathroom a few years ago.

Yea, I gotta admit it was an impulse buy on the insulated duct. It seemed like a good idea on the 'net. Now that I see how big and fat the thing is, I almost regret getting it. I was wooed by the "low noise" aspect of it. I dont have a bunch of space to run it in the wall to vent outside. The right side of the equipment closet goes directly outside so I dont need all that much of a run. Ill try to work with it, but I'm pretty sure Im going to have to strip off the insulation, run the duct, and then smoosh the insulation back around it and wrap with duct tape. Its almost a dryer vent. If that doesnt work out. Ill just get some plain old duct. Heck, the Panny fans are good and quiet as is. I cant imagine it being a big source of noise in the room HT. Ill just crank the amplifier up louder. :)

Ill take some picks of the closet today to demonstrate the fan and vent positioning. Im not going to install them until the thermostat arrives.

I have a question for everyone. Is there a general rule of thumb on sconce heights? The wall Id like to hang my sconce is 6'9" so its low because of the main HVAC duct there. Im at the point where I need to nail up the electrical box and run wire, but Ive hestitated until I figure out how high to put it. I suppose its probably dependent on the sconce, but was wondering everyone's thoughts on this.

google it.

I found this link by search "sconce height"

http://www.derekmarshall.com/data/FAQ.htm#What%20is%20the%20correct%20height

I don't think you will have much sound at all coming from the Panny fans and even if you did I don't think the insulated duct would affect the sound at all. The sound would come from the motor itself, not from air going through the vent. Noise from turbulence is only a problem with air that is coming OUT of vents.

If I were you, since you've got a good fan in your equipment closet, I would close the whole thing up with a door and mount an IR repeater on the outside. It would be very sleek, no annoying lights or residual noise, and the fan would take care of the thermal issues. Just a thought.

I found this link by search "sconce height"
Great link! Thanks for the info!

If I were you, since you've got a good fan in your equipment closet, I would close the whole thing up with a door and mount an IR repeater on the outside. It would be very sleek, no annoying lights or residual noise, and the fan would take care of the thermal issues. Just a thought.
Thanks for the thought! Thats good stuff. I was thinking along the same lines. I thought I would put the IR repeater under the screen somewhere in the TBD entertainment center that I plan on building to house the front speakers. I havent quite figured out what to do for a door on the equipment closet yet. It used to have a bi-fold (in classic 70s deco) door. I guess my initial thought was to build a glass door for it.

I was planning on putting the subwoofer in the bottom of the closet so the bottom portion would probably just have a speaker grill snap fit over the door frame and the top would have an actual door. My dad proposed that I put the woofer in the firebox itself (itll be hidden by the entertainment center. Its an (amusing and) interesting idea. Ill play around with it a bit once all the low voltage wiring is strung up.

I'm building a double rack that will go under my screen. My center channel will sit on top of it. I don't have that many componenets so it works for me. My main concern was to block out all of the annoying lights as it would greatly distract from the picture directly above it. One option was to make it completely closed off on the front to block all the lights but wide open on the back to allow for heat disappation. That option would mean that an IR repeater was necessary. The other option was to make semi-opaque doors on the front and that way I wouldn't need an IR repeater but it would block out a lot of the light. I opted for that and chose this material for my doors.

http://www.mcmaster.com/param/images/wirecloth/ItemDetailPerforatedRoundStaggered9255t781.gif

It's from mcmaster carr. It's not too expensive. It's $33 plus shipping which i think was $10. I'm going to make the door frames out of MDF and mount the material behind the frames. I'm thinking about putting a layer of dark translucent plexi over the perforated metal. That would shut out a lot of the lights coming out. But if it doesn't work, I have no problem scrapping the doors for solid doors and using an ir repeater. It's not going to be finished out perfectly. This rack is just a quickie thing I'm going to slap together to hold me over. There's a good chance I'll be selling my house and moving within the next year to 18 months, so it doesn't make sense to invest tons of time and money into my media room. But nonetheless, I want it to look good and be enjoyable.

I'm digressing, but the point is, if I were you, I would steer clear of glass because your rack is going to be right next to your screen and all of the lights on your components will be WAY too distracting. People who have their racks in the back of the room can make glass doors and show off their components. But your strategy should be to conceal it as much as possible.

I like the idea for the sub in the fireplace. Hehe. But, the most important thing is how it sounds though. If I were you I wouldn't get yourself tied down to a sub location until you do a mockup and see how it sounds. Every room is different and your sub could sound like total crap in the locations you're thinking about. Figure out where it sounds the best and then see if you can make THAT location work.

Yay! After 3 hours of work, I got the recessed cans working with the Lutron dimmers! Im so happy! The house hasnt even burned down, and I have yet to be electrocuted (knock on wood). :)

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m8/drostowsky/Electrical/dimmer.jpg

From dimmer perspective. Couldnt fit all the lights in the pic, but there are 6.
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m8/drostowsky/Electrical/recessed1.jpg

From back corner looking toward dimmer.
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m8/drostowsky/Electrical/recessed2.jpg

I still have to wire up the sconces. What sconces? Exactly. I havent made a decision yet on the sconces, but I did run wire so they could be on their own dimmer when I get them. Ive whittled down my selections a bit. Need to spend some more time looking into sconces. I hung the wall box for them at 6'. Ill probably be getting sconces that point down since its close to the ceiling.

Yea, I still have to button up the wire nuts in the recessed cans and put the staples in to hold the wires in the ceiling, but this is a good stopping point for today. :)

BTW, having a remote with the dimmers is great fun too. The distance and/or angle is a little sharp for row 2 control, but was just fine for the first row seating. I set up the preset to be the front cans off and the rears on full.

Time to go crack a cold one...

Going a little bit backwards in time, but I finished rebuilding the heat duct coming into the room yesterday. It really opened up the space behind it for running the 2" Resi-gard and low-voltage wiring! The shiney stuff on it is self-adhevsive 1/8" insulation (R-4) I found at HD. Its perfect for me as theres very little room once the duct meets the foundation to put anything thicker. In fact, you could say theres no room. It makes a sound difference when you bang on it. Dull thunk instead of a metallic ping! Should help with acoustics I would suspect/hope with the minimized vibrations.
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m8/drostowsky/heatduct.jpg

BTW, I put foil tape around all the joints in the duct including the existing 6" round. Original builder used plain old duct tape and a single wrap. Some joints didnt even have duct tape! After 35 years, it was all dried up like toast.

Here's the return with the insulation on it. Didnt need to rebuild that duct. Just left it alone other than shoved it around a bit to make sure it doesnt cause a bulge in the drywall (like it did with the previous drywall).
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m8/drostowsky/returnduct.jpg

More toys in the mail today. All the low voltage wiring for the projector and the game center! Plus some RG6 for the satellite dish. Went through monoprice.com for the wiring. Great pricing (vs. going to Best Buy, sheesh).
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m8/drostowsky/Electrical/lowvoltage.jpg

More toys in the mail today. All the low voltage wiring for the projector and the game center! Plus some RG6 for the satellite dish. Went through monoprice.com for the wiring. Great pricing (vs. going to Best Buy, sheesh).
Yup, I bought a 35-foot DVI-to-M1 cable from monoprice last fall and wondered how well it would work after I ran it through all the ceiling joists and waited through the drywall and painting. As so many here now realize, the cable is good, works great, and didn't cost a small fortune. ;)

As so many here now realize, the cable is good, works great, and didn't cost a small fortune.
Excellent. Good to hear first hand experience.

Hi,

Great job on your wiring. I also love the IR dimmers. They're great :)

I noticed you said you had wired for sconces on the wall. I did as well and fortunately I ran it across the back of the 2x4s in the attic space (I'm above the garage for my theater and the screen backs up to the attic above garage 3). We had already done the green glue and drywall when I hit a stumbling block on the art deco architecture screen design with the colors and I met with a designer for help. She suggested taking one of my elements and turning it into a custom made aluminum sconce on each column. That's in addition to the sconces I already have. Didn't wire for that but realized it'd be a piece of cake to interrupt the line on the back side of the wall and splice in two more lines for the extra sconces.

The only reason I bring this up is that it's a lot easier before drywall goes up to run some extra power line in case you either want to move the sconces or add new ones. I've already moved mine as well, the left one was too close to the wall, I simply left a big loop behind the drywall and carefully cut in after the fact where I wanted.

Good luck!

Mike

it's a lot easier before drywall goes up to run some extra power line in case you either want to move the sconces or add new ones.
Thanks, thats a good idea. The idea briefly crossed my mind as I was pulling out the old 2-wire lines in the wall & ceiling. I thought, "Nah, what would I ever do with these dead wires?" Of course, in the evening I started to research rope lighting, so I may well put in a couple of strategically placed dead wires in the wall in case I do want to put in rope lighting later. I figured if I did, Id try to put the rope lights on the same dimmer as the sconces. Seems to make the most sense from a control standpoint.

Didnt get to do too much today. Had to play PC repairman on my brother in-law's PC. The role of being the "family nerd." :p

I did do a bunch of cleanup today and started working on my projector mount. I bought a Chief RPA-225 (http://www.projectorsuperstore.com/product.cfm?id=032405-112922) so itll be nice and flush with the ceiling. I got a big old hunk of 2x10 backing for it to mount on to between my ceiling joists. The projector will be around 11' back from the screen.

I drilled a 1.75" hole for the HDMI, component, (maybe S-video too, what the heck) and monitor cables to come in as well as a 2.5" hole for my Resi-gard for future expansion.

When I got the Resi-gard I bought some of the 2" conduit clamps (http://www.smarthome.com/images/2556&2557_big.jpg) for it. I put a hunk of 2x4" on the back of the 2x10 so I could put a clamp on it right before the conduit goes in the hole so I know it wont slip much. Yea, I used my biscuit joiner and some glue to attach it. Normally, Id just screw it in, but I wanted to play around with the joiner for fun.
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m8/drostowsky/Projector%20Mount/mount.jpg

I was thinking about post-drywall and I will probably get some blank round outlet cover to put over the Resi-gard just to hide it since Im hoping I wont need it for years. I dont really want this big orange conduit dangling down from a hole in the ceiling. I dont plan (never say never) on building any box around the projector to hide things so I want it to be as clean as possible from the start.

I plan on using 3"x1/4" carriage bolts to hold the Chief to the ceiling so I still need to drill holes for those. A made markings for where to drill already, but Ill do that tomorrow (when the glue is dry. :))

I showed "the boss" my selections for sconces, and the highest WAF came on this one. (http://www.lampsplus.com/Products/Sconces/page_7/65827/) Order up!

Just for weekend photo completeness...

Here are the sconce outlets all wired up.
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m8/drostowsky/Electrical/sconcewiring.jpg

I do need to get another Lutron dimmer for them. I also have a small issue of the electrical box. Since Im using the Carlon adjustable boxes, there is not a 3-gang version of it (that I know of). So the sconce dimmer will be in a single gang box. I dont want it to be 16" away on the next stud. Also, with the Carlon adjustables they have the metal plate that goes over the face of the stud so I cant exactly put it on the opposite side of the 2 gang box. However, I was thinking of just hammering on a 2x4" on the other side of the 2-gang stud and mount the box on that. Itll be a few inches away from the 2-gang switch. Itll be "special" I guess.

Came home from work and my new toy is waiting. Tim Allen grunts for everyone. Oh-Oh-OH! :D
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m8/drostowsky/tablesaw.jpg
Took a couple of hours to setup and adjust, but its rock solid and cut like a dream! Cant wait to really do some work on this! Need to spend some time chopping on scrap!

I do need to get another Lutron dimmer for them. I also have a small issue of the electrical box. Since Im using the Carlon adjustable boxes, there is not a 3-gang version of it (that I know of). So the sconce dimmer will be in a single gang box.

You know what I wish I had done (I ended up with two dimmers 16" apart like a doh head) was to either go with a double box (which would have worked for me, but not you) or wait until drywall went up and cut a hole for an "old work" box that has the little screws that suck up to the drywall. I've already had to do that for a switch/light I wanted in a closet.

Just a thought.

Mike

Took a couple of hours to setup and adjust, but its rock solid and cut like a dream! Cant wait to really do some work on this! Need to spend some time chopping on scrap!

Which model is that? How much for the saw and stand? I have a friend looking for a little unit like that. Do you like it?

Mike

Which model is that? How much for the saw and stand? I have a friend looking for a little unit like that. Do you like it?

Its the Bosch 4000-09 (http://bosch.cpotools.com/saws/table_saws/4000-09.html?ref=googaw667). It runs about $550. A refurb model (which they didnt have) runs about $450.

So far so good. The stand is a Rock! Plus, I like that I can just fold it up and wheel the whole thing out of the way. Wont be able to give a final verdict until I chop into my first piece of wood that I really care about. :)

wait until drywall went up and cut a hole for an "old work" box that has the little screws that suck up to the drywall. I've already had to do that for a switch/light I wanted in a closet.

I had considered that. Were you able to ultimately put a 2-gang or 3-gang plate over them all? I thought about trying to put a new stud and position the box as close to the 2-gang as possible, but wasnt sure if Id be able to get a 3-gang faceplate over them when all is said and done.

I had considered that. Were you able to ultimately put a 2-gang or 3-gang plate over them all? I thought about trying to put a new stud and position the box as close to the 2-gang as possible, but wasnt sure if Id be able to get a 3-gang faceplate over them when all is said and done.

I don't think you'd be able to fit a 3-gang plate over two boxes pushed together. If I were you, I would start over and install a 3-gang box. It might seems like a hassle, but boxes are so cheap and it would probably only take you about 30 minutes to install the box and rewire the switches. It might be easier than the other options and it would certainly look cleaner. That's the nice thing about not having drywall up.

BYW...that's a sweet saw. I've been happy with the way my cheap craftsman cuts, but I'm green with envy looking at the base on that bosch. I wish I had a stand half as nice as that on my table saw. I went and looked at Sears and they sell the bosch stand that will fit on any table saw. Here is a link. (http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?cat=Power+Tool+Accessories&pid=00961368000&vertical=TOOL&subcat=Table+Saw&BV_UseBVCookie=Yes)
It's fairly affordable and definately worth the money. Damn...now theres another thing on my wishlist.

If I were you, I would start over and install a 3-gang box.
Thats a fine idea. Id love to do that, but I guess I dont get how to resolve that Ill be putting the 1" Linacoustic + GOM around that box. How do I adjust a standard 3-gang box then? Do I just leave the box, pull the wires out, build the 1" furring strips around box and sort of nestle the outlets against the furring strips for support? Doesnt seem right (or maybe it is and Im just paranoid).

I went and looked at Sears and they sell the bosch stand that will fit on any table saw. Here is a link.
It is a nice stand. Tonight I realized that I screwed up my 2x10" projector mount so I had to cut a new 15" piece of 2x10". Just picked up the table saw like it was on a refridgerator cart, and out in the driveway I went with it. No sweat. The saw is pretty light in its own right. I "could" just pick it up, but wheeling it around is so much more fun. :)

Im glad I spent the extra money on this saw. I could have settled for a $200 saw at HD, but they seemed so flimsy. They saw has a solid feel to it all around. I do need to pick up a good blade for it before I go making my HT cabinets & columns.

Thats a fine idea. Id love to do that, but I guess I dont get how to resolve that Ill be putting the 1" Linacoustic + GOM around that box. How do I adjust a standard 3-gang box then? Do I just leave the box, pull the wires out, build the 1" furring strips around box and sort of nestle the outlets against the furring strips for support? Doesnt seem right (or maybe it is and Im just paranoid).

You get what's called a box extender. It's nothing more than a rectangle of plastic that attaches to the box and bring the box flush with the wall. They make them because as you probably know, it's against code to have a box too far recessed into the wall. The only problem is that I'm not sure I've ever seen a 3-gang version, but I bet they make them. Or maybe you could attach 3 single gang extenders to a 3-gang box? Hmmm. I'm not sure, but here is a link (http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=productDetail&productId=103391-223-B1EXT-CRD) to what I'm talking about.

I went over to Carlon's site and they apparently don't make extenders in anything other than 1-gang. Maybe someone else makes them, but it would be hard to find.

I re-read the product description on the Lowe's link I gave you and it says it can be used for 2-gang applications. If it can be used with 2-gang then I see no reason why it can't be used with 3-gang. So I think that's the way to go. I hope it works out for you.

It is a nice stand. Tonight I realized that I screwed up my 2x10" projector mount so I had to cut a new 15" piece of 2x10". Just picked up the table saw like it was on a refridgerator cart, and out in the driveway I went with it. No sweat. The saw is pretty light in its own right. I "could" just pick it up, but wheeling it around is so much more fun. :)


Exactly. My workshop is fairly small so when i'm cutting large sheet goods I have to move my saw outside. It would be so much nicer to be able to wheel it out the door instead of picking it up and awkwardly carrying it out the door. It's not that heavy but it sure is unweildly. The door frame to my shop has the dings to prove it.

If it can be used with 2-gang then I see no reason why it can't be used with 3-gang.
I definitely looked into extenders and I saw the 2-gang ones, but Ive looked high and low on the internet and I cant find the existence of a 3-gang one. I think Ill just go with my original plan of sandwiching a stud for the 3rd switch outlet. Geez, if I were a businessman, Id make a 3 and 4 gang extender and make a $$$!

Or maybe you could attach 3 single gang extenders to a 3-gang box?
Thats possible. Ill have to go play with them at HD tomorrow (while Im looking for a good table saw blade).

Havent had much time to do much work, but I got my Honeywell thermostat only to realize it was rated for 15A and the line I ran up to the box was a 20A circuit. Whoops. So, I ran a line from the recessed light over to the equipment closet so now the thermostat and Panny fan run on the same 15A circuit as the lights.

I mounted up the Panny fan last night. Here's a snail's eye view.
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m8/drostowsky/eq.jpg

You see the flex duct up there. Well, thats the inside duct of my big fat insulated duct I got. I just stripped off the insulation or it would never fit where I need to route it. It has to go up and over that 2x4" thats just to the right of it and then straight down along the wall. Ill have to notch that 2x4" to make the turn.

I still need to cut the hole for the oustide exhaust and mount the vent. Thatll be a weekend warrior task probably. Cutting a 4" hole in the side of my house makes me nervous so I need to really take a hard look at it.

I also FINALLY found the $17 attic fan thermostat that Bud used in his theatre at HD. Took me 3 different HD's in my area to find one (and of course they had like 12 of them sitting on the shelf). So, that means I return the Honeywell thermostat. Boy, is this Master Flow Pt-6 simple on the inside, ha. Thatll be easier to wire up than the Honeywell.
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m8/drostowsky/therm.jpg

Too bad it doesnt mount over a standard outlet box, or it would be perfect. Not sure how to deal with that and my standard Carlon adjustable box up there currently. Should I just take out the box now, and drywall with the wires sticking out of the wall and into the thermostat?

Havent had much time to do much work, but I got my Honeywell thermostat only to realize it was rated for 15A and the line I ran up to the box was a 20A circuit. Whoops. So, I ran a line from the recessed light over to the equipment closet so now the thermostat and Panny fan run on the same 15A circuit as the lights.



I am not an electrician, so please take this for what it's worth and do your own research, but hooking up a 15A device to a 20A circuit shouldn't be a problem. It's done all the time. All of the circuits in my house are 20A but all of my receptacles are 15A. Now, hooking up a 20A device to a 15A circuit is a serious problem. That could overload the circuit and cause a fire. Do you see the difference?

I was worried about that too until someone explained to me how it works (they almost certainly did a better job of it than I'm doing right now).

Thanks. That actually makes sense.

I was just erring on the side of caution/paranoia. Ill sleep better now. :)

Was doing my daily browsing for HT last night and I came across a pic that made me rethink my sconce boxes. I currently have the "plain" box that you nail into the stud and it sticks out 1/2". Itll be flush after drywall, but then theres the Linacoustic which sets it back 1". Ive seen other HT where people just pulled the wires through and called it a day, so I was about to follow suit. Plus, I had the boxes left over from other remodels (waste not)!

Here's the pic from The Tanglewood Bijou (http://tanglewoodbijou.myphotoalbum.com/view_photo.php?set_albumName=album01&id=13_wire_furr_out_sconce_lights)

Once I saw that, I did some research and found that box theyre using is 1.5" deep. So, I could nail on a chunk of 2x10 (its scrap I have) between the studs so its flush, drill a big hole through it, run the wire, and nail this box on the front. The box would be nice and flush after the 1" acoustic treatment. Nice. I like it.

Thoughts?

Hopefully Ill have some free time this weekend to finish and clean up all the high voltage so I can move on and starting cracking on all the low voltage. Woo hoo, I can see the insulation (and drywall) on the horizon!

Tonight got a little help from my wife and we put up the conduit to the projector mount. Boy, that Resi-gard has a mind of its own when there's 50' of it! Plus, the string fell out so I got a lesson in feeding things through the conduit. Luckily, I have a 50' fish tape. That made life easier. Dont put too many bends in your conduit if you can help it.

At the projector mount. That backing is a rock up there. I did a few chin-ups.
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m8/drostowsky/Projector%20Mount/mount1.jpg

Conduit going above the window. I duct taped it up as high as itll go right now. I forgot I need to feed the 2nd conduit for the game center. It will run the full length of the room, go under the backside of the riser and out the riser's front (or close to the front). Rebuilding the heating duct made life much better with the extra clearance for the conduit.
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m8/drostowsky/Projector%20Mount/conduit1.jpg

Ill need to figure out an ending solution in the equipment closet for finishing it off cleanly. Ill figure something out when all the low voltage wires are run.
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m8/drostowsky/Projector%20Mount/conduit2.jpg

After an aborted attempt to use 3 1" extenders in a 3-gang box. I kludged on a stud next to the light switch for the sconce dimmer. Just got an email saying the sconces themselves have shipped. Ill be able to finish those up this week.
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m8/drostowsky/Projector%20Mount/switch1.jpg

Tomorrow Ill probably work on the fan in the equipment closet. Drill the hole in the house for the vent and wire up the thermostat.

I will second that about the conduit having a mind of its own. Installing it reminded me of that old Tarzan movie (I believe it had Bo Derek in it), when Tarzan is fighting with the 20 foot Python. I too lost the pull string, but I did not have a fish tape. I attached a string to a screwdriver and tried to feed it through. It was a lot more difficult than it sounds. I took me about 20 minutes and several different techniques.

Here is my "Conduit Tamer". I can reach each tube through the Carlton boxes.

Haha. Yea it was a python. I was thinking that I was wrestling with Dr. Octopus. It was knocking over tools and everything as it writhed around.

Even with a steel fish tape, I found the conduit had to be relatively straight to make it through. I wondered if anyone really ever used the conduit effectively when its all said and done. I may "test" it one more time once I do "tame" it in the closet.

I like your solution. I was thinking along those lines as well. Boy, you got 5 of them?! Wow. Does the 2" tube actually fit in the top of a Carlon low voltage box?

No, the 2 inch tube does not fit into the Carlton LV box. I used tin snips to cut off the piece of the box that is designed to accept a 1" conduit. This created enough room to fasten the conduit to the stud, so that the opening is right at the box level.

Yeah, I got five. Simply because I can't commit to specific wiring (type and brand), and I have not purchased any equipment yet. Thus, I am trying to insure future flexibility. 2 go to the projector (people were recommending 3" conduit and the volume of two 2" tubes is about the same as one 3" conduit), 1 goes to the front cabinet that will house the speakers and subs, and 1 goes a gaming outlet, and one goes to a network panel (RG6, Cat5e). I have a 100' of 1 inch conduit that I have yet to run to other rooms in the basement. Once again, just in case...

I assume that orange conduit is the same thing as the "interduct" I'm used to? If so, I have pulled more wires through this stuff than I care to remember! Here's a secret for pulling through this stuff: USE A NYLON OR FIBERGLASS FISH TAPE. Steel ones are just too stiff to make the bends (they tend to "stick" in the outside of the bend as they pass through it). Also, nylon/fiberglass tapes have a rounded head on them that will pass more easily through the corners. If you do get hung-up, a quick in-and-out motion on the fish tape will free it 99% of the time.

No, the 2 inch tube does not fit into the Carlton LV box. I used tin snips to cut off the piece of the box that is designed to accept a 1" conduit.

Great. Thanks for the pics. Thats very helpful for me. Gives me great ideas.

USE A NYLON OR FIBERGLASS FISH TAPE.
Cool. Didnt know such a fish tape existed. Ill keep that in mind if/when I really do need to use the conduit. The steel tape has a rounded head too, but it definitely got stuck when the conduit was in its "natural" curled up state.

Had a busy and productive weekend.

Got the thermostat, bathroom fan, and vent all done! Using my trusty 4.5" hole saw, that made relatively quick work of making the hole in the siding. Then I used a chisel to chisel out some of the siding so the vent cover would be flush with the house.
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m8/drostowsky/vent.jpg

I even got to use the insulated 4" duct. Had to notch a 2x4" so it could make the turn from the ceiling to the wall, but other than that, the duct worked well. Here's the big pic of the closet. You can see I got both conduits run now too. 1 to the projector and the other to the game center.
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m8/drostowsky/closet.jpg

I returned my expensive Honeywell thermostat now that I got the $17 attic fan thermostat from HD. Got it wired up and working away. I got an outlet cover with a 3/4" hole in it for the thermostat electrical outlet once the drywall goes up.
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m8/drostowsky/thermostat.jpg

Even with the puffy duct I got some space to work with.
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m8/drostowsky/closet1.jpg

Im building a conduit tamer out of the last bit of 2x10" I got. Will drill a couple of 2.5" holes in it for each conduit. You can see it in the above closet pic. Not screwed in yet, just playing around with positioning. Itll probably ultimately have 3 1.5" holes in it too for the wires to the projector, game center, & speakers (and whatever other assorted wires). The good news Im getting dangerously close to running all the low voltage wires!

So I built the conduit "tamer" in the equipment closet. I also cut 3 1.5" holes for the wires to the projector, game center, & speaker wires. I may not use them and use some low voltage Carlon boxes. Havent decided, but the holes are there if needed ultimately. The one cable you see sticking out is a 35' HDMI cable that I ran to the projector just to get the ball rolling on running low voltage wires.
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m8/drostowsky/tamer.jpg

I also got cracking on the window boxes. I cut some 1"x3/4" red oak extenders for the existing window box. Im tackling the smaller window first. I did the sides tonight. Got to use my new biscuit joiner for something "real." Woo hoo!
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m8/drostowsky/clamping.jpg

Got to playing around with the Panny 900 again tonight. Put on a Dragonball Z VCR tape my kids had sitting around. DVD player was upstairs and in use. :)

Anyway, I took some pictures of the resizing capability of the Panny. Keep in mind that I plan on a 84-88" screen as that is about all that can fit on my fireplace when I hang the screen there.

Panny at 18' as big a pic as it can muster for 16:9. You can see it out in the hallway and in the equipment closet. Wow. If only my wall was bigger. :)
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m8/drostowsky/prj18ftfull.jpg

Panny at 18' and the smallest pic. Still big.
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m8/drostowsky/prj18ftsm.jpg

Panny at its "final" resting place. 11'. Largest possible image. Still "too big" for me. :)
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m8/drostowsky/prj11ftfull.jpg

Panny at 11' and smallest possible image.
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m8/drostowsky/prj11ftsm.jpg

Today the sconces came in! Joy! Snuck in an hour to put up the 2x10" mounts with the 1.5" deep electrical boxes. Should all be nice and flush with 5/8" drywall + 1" Linacoustic. Of course, the sconces are up temporarily and will need to come down before the sloppy, dusty drywall goes in.

Here's a side view so you can see the box relative to the studs.
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m8/drostowsky/Sconces/sconce-side.jpg

All lights on in the room.
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m8/drostowsky/Sconces/sconce2.jpg

Only the sconces on full.
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m8/drostowsky/Sconces/sconce1.jpg

Ok, the only bummer I found out is the sconces buzz when dimmer. The dimmer the light, the louder the buzz. I know lights buzz on dimmers, but is there a way to clear this up? Obviously, in a nice loud theatre you wont notice, but ambient noise is just that, noise. Would like to attenuate the buzz a bit more. The recessed cans dont buzz one bit.

Anyone in Seattle/Bellevue area need about 20-25' of 2" Resigard? Its what I got left over. PM me and when can work something out.

Ok, the only bummer I found out is the sconces buzz when dimmer. The dimmer the light, the louder the buzz. I know lights buzz on dimmers, but is there a way to clear this up? Obviously, in a nice loud theatre you wont notice, but ambient noise is just that, noise. Would like to attenuate the buzz a bit more. The recessed cans dont buzz one bit.

What kind of lights are in the sconces? What about the cans?

I haven't purchased mine yet and would like to avoid as much buzzing as possible.


Thanks,
Mike

What kind of lights are in the sconces? What about the cans?

The sconces are supposed to take a 60W A19 Medium bulb. I just slapped in some 60W bulbs I had laying around the house from old lamps, etc. So maybe getting the right bulb for the light is in order. ;)

The cans have 65W GE Miser floods. Its a frosted "soft" light.

I just read the following from here. (http://www.hometips.com/home_probsolver/hps05/02_conventional/hps_conventional04.html)

"A dimmer switch can cause a light bulb's filament to vibrate, making a buzzing sound when its on a less-than-full setting. You can buy a new dimmer that's designed not to buzz and replace it, but before you do, try replacing the bulb with a "long life" light bulb that has a sturdier filament and is rated at 130-volts instead of the far more common 120-volts."

So it appears new bulbs are in order!

BTW, I know its not the dimmer since all 3 are 600W Maestro IR's.

So a light bulb change in the wall sconces beat the buzz. It had Sylvania Double Life 60W bulbs in it from the big box stores. I looked at the big box stores for 130V lights, but they didnt have any. I wound up getting 60W A19 GE Edison halogens, and the buzz vanished virtually. I have to literally put my ear right up almost to the glass on the sconce (ouch) to perceive the buzz. Good! :)

With the aid of my trusty sidekick nephew (THANKS BRYANT!), we got a lot of the low voltage wires in today. Whew. Easy work to do, but slow work too. We were rewarded today when we set the goal to get all the AV wires in so we could test everything out and dry run it. We met that goal! SWIII was showing (on my brick wall) by the end of the day. Busted out the B&W fronts and had a pair of crappy old Bose bookshelf speakers sitting around so we used those to test out the rears. Oh yea, got the Klipsch subwoofer out too.

Here's a glimpse of the mass of cables in my pseudo-soffit above the windows.
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m8/drostowsky/mass.jpg

The front of the room with all the speakers in their almost grand spendor. On the right is the Yamaha 2600 and my Panny RP62 DVD player all hooked up with the mass of cables from the equipment closet.
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m8/drostowsky/front.jpg

The projector with its little mass of redundant cables (HDMI, component, & S-video). Of course, theyll all be pushed up to the ceiling for the ceiling mounting. I let them dangle for now so we can goof around with stuff. To the far left you can see a glimpse of the Bose side surround sitting on the window ledge. Ultimately I think I will be using 2 pairs of B&W CCM80 ceiling speakers for the side are rear surrounds. Havent got them yet or ordered them, but thats my current thinking.
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m8/drostowsky/prj.jpg

Got all the phone and Ethernet lines put in, but not really connected to anything yet. Need to play around with my laptop too as I want to sit in my front row and pipe the laptop video through the projector. Hey, Im a s/w geek, so coding on a 84" screen might be sweet. :) Plus Im sure a HTPC might be in the works someday.

One thing I screwed up on is the PS2 wiring. We got all the wires in the universe ready for PS2, PS3, Nintendo, or Xbox 360. I own PS2 right now, but got everything wired for the next gen. At any rate I have the wrong genders on the video connectors to the PS2. Both sides male. Whoops. Need to get some mating connectors

Today the sconces came in! Joy! Snuck in an hour to put up the 2x10" mounts with the 1.5" deep electrical boxes. Should all be nice and flush with 5/8" drywall + 1" Linacoustic. Of course, the sconces are up temporarily and will need to come down before the sloppy, dusty drywall goes in.

Here's a side view so you can see the box relative to the studs.
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m8/drostowsky/Sconces/sconce-side.jpgDavid, can ask a few questions? I notced you used 1 1/2" boxes. Were these the standard junction box, or were these light switch 2 gang boxes?
And, are you going to mount them on top of the 1/2" drywall, so the space from the lincoustics will add up to 1"? Or are you going to mount on top of the 5/8" drywall and then cut a hole in the covering drywall?
I guess I wasn't clear.
Thanks,
Tom
China Clipper

Just started the thread, so dont know if it is mentioned later or not, but you guys are making this WAY too hard....you need to do it the "Zen" (lazy) way like me.

Here's a hint.

Situation: Lost conduit pull string.

Solution:
Procure 1.) Shop-Vac, 2.) roll of string on a spool that can spin freely, 3.) A paper towel or snot-rag.

Tie string to paper towel or snot rag around the center so the thing can fold in half.

Shove it into the conduit.

Mate the conduit to the shop vac.

Apply the "juice" and wait for the giggles. The giggles always come when you see that napking/snot rag shoot through the conduit in 5 seconds with almost no effort.....

Of course you need at least 2" conduit or will need to modify the size of the paper towel.....

Trust me, this is very fun.

I will second that about the conduit having a mind of its own. Installing it reminded me of that old Tarzan movie (I believe it had Bo Derek in it), when Tarzan is fighting with the 20 foot Python. I too lost the pull string, but I did not have a fish tape. I attached a string to a screwdriver and tried to feed it through. It was a lot more difficult than it sounds. I took me about 20 minutes and several different techniques.

Here is my "Conduit Tamer". I can reach each tube through the Carlton boxes.

By the way, when inserting the paper towel/snot rag, if you have the vac already turned on, you are going for that sound that the shop vac makes when it touches the fleshy part of your leg, thats the sweet spot.


Just started the thread, so dont know if it is mentioned later or not, but you guys are making this WAY too hard....you need to do it the "Zen" (lazy) way like me.

Here's a hint.

Situation: Lost conduit pull string.

Solution:
Procure 1.) Shop-Vac, 2.) roll of string on a spool that can spin freely, 3.) A paper towel or snot-rag.

Tie string to paper towel or snot rag around the center so the thing can fold in half.

Shove it into the conduit.

Mate the conduit to the shop vac.

Apply the "juice" and wait for the giggles. The giggles always come when you see that napking/snot rag shoot through the conduit in 5 seconds with almost no effort.....

Of course you need at least 2" conduit or will need to modify the size of the paper towel.....

Trust me, this is very fun.

Were these the standard junction box, or were these light switch 2 gang boxes?
These are standard junction boxes. Looking at the pic you cant tell the shape, but these are the round kind for probably ceiling fixtures, not the rectangular ones. There are a few flavors of them at HD. Mine had punch outs on the sides and back of the box. some have just punchouts on the sides with clamps to hold the electrical wire. I liked the punchouts on the back of the box since I could drill a 1/2" hole through the 2x10" that I mounted it on and pull the wire through that way.

And, are you going to mount them on top of the 1/2" drywall, so the space from the lincoustics will add up to 1"? Or are you going to mount on top of the 5/8" drywall and then cut a hole in the covering drywall?
The drywall will basically be put around the side of the box, so yes the drywall will have a hole in it. The idea is drywall takes up 5/8" and 1" Lin takes the other inch, so it should all be close to flush when the fabric goes up.

Thanks for looking at my thread!

Procure 1.) Shop-Vac, 2.) roll of string on a spool that can spin freely, 3.) A paper towel or snot-rag.
Ok, obvious comical question. Does extra snot help? :)

Actually, thats a very clever idea. Wish Id have thought of it at the time. Thanks for posting that.

Sweet snot rag idea. I wish I had thought of that before. Heck, I may go downstairs and just try it for fun!

So here's my makeshift screen. Brown construction paper. Im currently looking into the Carada Criterion 88" 1.78:1 screen. Reminds me that I need to call someone there and get some screen samples to play with. Id love to check the Panny AE900 out on the Brilliant White screen.
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m8/drostowsky/makeshiftscreen.jpg

Hey, brown screens dont look too bad. This one ran me about $10 for paper. :) I put Shrek on for my two kids and plopped a couple of chairs in there for them to watch while I cleaned up from the weekends wiring extravaganza. Always good to try and keep the work area semi-orderly. I found I was hunting for tools quite a bit. Plus there was just general garbage laying about.
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m8/drostowsky/shrek.jpg

Tonight I started to put in some JM R-13 insulation in places where I knew I wouldnt be working anymore with electrical. You might notice the top of the window jamb has the last of its 1" oak extensions being biscuit joined and clamped on it. So, Ill have that window all done tomorrow and I can move onto the bigger window. Ive only got 8 24" clamps so I can do 1 side per day. Thats ok for me as theres plenty of other stuff to keep my busy right now. Ill take some closeups of that so you can get a better view.
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m8/drostowsky/insulation.jpg

You might be curious why I didnt put the insulation all the way to the ceiling. Well, thats because the foundation ends and then the wall gets deeper (~9" deep). So, Ill probably use the same insulation on that that I do the ceiling since theyre roughly the same depth. Here's a closeup of where the foundation ends and the extra wall depth begins. There is some of the original insulation left up there you can see for the outside wall (the R-7 Owens pink stuff). I decided to leave that alone and just stuff the new 9" insulation in there to fill the void. Im glad to be putting some insulation in. I wont be able to complete it for a bit as I still need to do some caulk on the walls and close up the ceiling light fixtures. Which reminds me I still need to run 1 more outlet to the ceiling and then run a dimmer switch to it for some rope lighting. Im sure Ill finish that this week.
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m8/drostowsky/foundation.jpg

BTW, I have to mention that the B&W's + Klipsch KSW12 woofer + Yamaha 2600 = Great Sound (at least for me)! Even with no walls and lots of echo. Man, I was pretty much sucked right into the movie. I had a hard time focusing on my cleanup because it was so cool. Rest assured, I took the equipment out today so I could get some work done or I might not ever finish. lol.

Really looking good. Progressing along nicely. Since you seem like you're pretty handy, check out the DIY screen forums. You can save some cash, get the exact screen size you want, and get really good results. Plus, DIY is fun. That's why we do this stuff right?

I'm projecting on a plain grey wall right now and it looks great. I'm going to step it up a notch with a sheet of Polywall, then the next step up would be to paint the polywall with either MaxxMudd or BFLF. Trim it out with black fidelio velvet wrapped on 1X3s and it looks pro.

check out the DIY screen forums.
Thanks. Thats a good idea actually. My buddy built one using Goo paint and he really likes it. Thats definitely something worth considering. I was half wondering if I could build my own wood frame around the metal screen freames somehow to dress it up more so maybe just doing the whole darn thing myself is a better option. Thanks.

Im struggling a bit with the screen size as Ill ultimately need to build the entertainment center to house my speakers. I was playing around with some drawings trying to build it to the right height, but not compromise the screen dimensions too much. I discovered a 92" screen will fit on the fireplace wall, but it would really make my entertainment center smooshed too much unless I move the subwoofer elsewhere. 88" seems to be just about right though. Ill have to Visio up my drawings when Im more comfortable with them. Im still waffling and getting my ideas straight so the woodwork will be consistent throughout the room.

Plus, DIY is fun. That's why we do this stuff right?
You got that right! Im going to have to move once this room is done as Ill pretty much have the house gutted and rebuilt entirely. Ill be bored! :) I used to grumble about how "old" the house was until I got more handy with things. Now I relish the opportunity to blow up rooms and get it the way "it should be."

Here are a couple of pics of the window jambs and their 1" extensions. I ripped them from a 1x8 of red oak (ah, gotta love that new table saw). I put biscuits every 6" and 1 as close to each end as I could get with the joiner. Im using #0 biscuits for these small pieces. I liberally apply Titebond II wood glue onto both edges and in the slots, lather on some glue onto each biscuit, and gently tap it on with a hammer and block. So far the extensions Ive put on are rock solid. Before I veneer over the top of the old wood, Ill need to apply some wood filler to the crack where the two pieces mate, but its pretty minor. Probably only I would ever know there was a minor indentation there if I didnt, but its one of those things Id kick myself if I didnt do it complete.

Speaker wire making a cameo in this pic. Ill be tightening those guys up in good time.
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m8/drostowsky/windowjamb1.jpg

You can see on the pics I had to manufacture a little wood block jig to help hold the clamps in place. Protects the wood too, but mostly the clamps were slipping off the wood because they clamp at a slight angle onto the 2x4" around the window. The tighter I clamped, the more it slipped. So more out of necessity I made these little blocks of wood so the clamps could go on straight and apply flat pressure. A few shims helped too since making these jigs wasnt an exact science. I made them in a few minutes time from a spare 2x4 and my jigsaw.
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m8/drostowsky/windowjamb2.jpg

Did your Ebay Seller have a bunch of those clamps available?? I wouldnt mind picking up a box of em!

Check out the store for mydealsdirect. Theres an entire section for just clamps. Quite a few clamping options. Probably something there for you.

Just to add...Thats where I got mine, and Im not affiliated with them in any way, shape, or form. :)

I just picked up a bunch of 48" and 24" quick clamps from them too, great prices...

Great work on the extensions David.

I just picked up a bunch of 48" and 24" quick clamps from them too, great prices...
Yea, I jumped for joy when I saw that ebay store after looking at the big boxes for clamps. HD + $20/clamp = Yikes! :eek: I may get a few 3' clamps eventually too. So far the 2' have been extremely useful.

Great work on the extensions David.
Thanks. I started on the other bigger window last night. Its about 10.5' long so Ill be making some splicing 45 degree cuts on my 8' 1"x1" to get them to run the distance. This window is interesting in that the far side of it goes all the way to the wall in the corner so its basically a 3-sided window. When the drywall goes up, the drywall edge of the wall next is flush with the edge of the window. Im going to have to get creative with the Linacoustic in that corner with a bevel or something to ease the transition. Will take a closeup pic tonight.

Here's a close-up of the window jamb thats butted up in the corner. You can see in the pic where the drywall used to be with the white marks. The bottom part of the jamb was notched 1/2" so the drywall can slip in behind. Like I mentioned previously, this will be an interesting challenge with the Lin + GOM.
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m8/drostowsky/jamb1.jpg

Tonight I didnt get much time to work, but I am trying to get a decent solution for how Im going to hide the speaker and maybe the subwoofer power cord (depending on if I really want the subwoof there) from the entertainment center on the fireplace and get them in the closet.

I figured on the right side of the fireplace (if youre facing the screen), I can make the entertainment center wide enough to cover a hole in the door frame of the equipment closet. Ill probably bore a 1" hole through the door frame into the closet for the cords. Here's a front side pic. Ill probably make the hole pretty close to the ground and start the hole as close to the brick as I can. Itll probably be in between the two studs of the door frame that you see sandwiched.
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m8/drostowsky/closet2.jpg

Here's a back side view of the door frame. The hole will notch the 2x4 stud in the closet.
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m8/drostowsky/closet3.jpg

Ok, that handles getting the speaker wire into the closet, but the 2-gang box with the 7.1 wall plate is on the opposite side of the closet where the surrounds wires come into the closet from the soffit. I want a clean solution so there isnt wire everywhere. So Im building a little "wire channel" by building out that side wall a bit with a 1x4 on top of the 2x4 in the closet. Itll make a little cavity so I can run the speaker wire up to the ceiling, so it can get over to the 2-gang box.

Here's a pic of my 1x4 built over another 2x4 stud I put next to the existing stud. Got to play with my hammer drill powering into concrete. Fun!
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m8/drostowsky/closet4.jpg

Here's a pic showing the top of the "wire channel." Going to need to do something to get it up into the ceiling as those floor joists are getting in the way. I figured Ill just build a micro-soffit there for the wire to get over to the other side of the wall.
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m8/drostowsky/closet5.jpg

What am I going to do with the subwoofer power cord? I guess that would just run on the floor of the equipment closet over to the power outlets in the back of the closet.

BTW, the above pics of the wire channel dont do a good job of showing that when the drywall goes in, itll be flush with the door frame stud.

Isn't it amazing (if you want to call it that) that the little things seem to take the most time? I wanted to be painting my column boxes and deco fan on Tues but realized I hadn't built the projector box and soffit yet. Well, it took me an hour and a half just to decide on the dimensions of the box (I have the optoma h31 right now and when the bulb goes I'm going to upgrade to the Panny 900 :) ), so I needed to make sure it would fit my current projector, mount and the Panny as well. Then I had to figure out where the PJ was going on the ceiling (basically where it was before I started all of this but I wanted to be sure). By the time that was done something else had come up, and just tonight I'm finally priming my stuff so that I can hopefully paint it tomorrow...

Ah well, I guess that's the sacrifice we pay for a great theater :D

Job well done by the way,
Mike

Youre right Mike. Its a minor thing in the grand scheme of things, but oh so big a detail! Each step along the way deserves its fair share of "contemplation time." Typically, Ill have a pretty good rough idea of what Im going to do and then let it fester in my brain for a while (hour, day, week) to see if alternatives or things I hadnt considered pop into my brain.

Positioning the projector and getting the box built sounds simple on the surface, doesnt it? :rolleyes: I agonized over mine for quite a bit as well. Mostly to make sure I wasnt going to be smacking my skull on it, etc since my ceilings arent tall to begin with. I think youll be pleased with the Panny 900 (when your other dies). I havent logged a bunch of hours on mine yet (for obvious reasons. i.e. I need a room :D ), but from what playing around Ive done with it, wow!

BTW, I just got my Panny $400 rebate and Blockbuster card not too long ago. My BB card is good until 7/07. Normally, Id prefer Netflix, but luckily theres a BB just a mile from my house. Hope Im done with the theater by then. :)

Havent made an update in a few days, but that doesnt mean Ive been completely idle!

Friday I didnt bore a 1" hole as planned into the side of my equipment closet door frame. I can pretty easily get the L/R/C speaker wires + sub woof wire + power cord fed through it. I figured Ill feed a power strip through so I have some more outlets available behind the entertainment center in case I ever need another.

Here's the front of the hole. I didnt put the power cord through in the pic, but it does fit. Im getting a new power strip with a nice long power cord on it. Mine are just 6'.
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m8/drostowsky/hole.jpg

Once the wire gets into the closet I run it straight up to the ceiling and I hammered on a 2x4 onto the backside of the door frame to make a "micro-soffit" for the wire to run over to the other wall. This pic is the wire as it gets over to the other side of the closet where I wanted it to be.
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m8/drostowsky/wire.jpg

Ultimately, all the speaker wires will go into a 2-gang low voltage box and connect up to this.
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m8/drostowsky/speaker.jpg

I did a lot of waffling on how "clean" the wires in the closet should be and where appropriate Im going to try and make things as clean as I can so bunch of wires arent dangling out of holes in the wall. Probably the game center and projector video cables will come out of bulk wire wall plates. However, the speaker, ethernets, phone, satellite, etc. will be terminated onto a nice keystone wall plate.

Didnt get any time on Saturday to work as we had a great day at a company picnic out on a really nice farm. Great time.

Today I caulked the snot out of my ceilings and walls with Stop Gap. I blew through 2 cans of that pretty quick. I could probably use another, but I think I got all the major areas I cared about. The ceiling was important to me as the living room is directly above and the kids play up there often so theres definitely noise leaking down. Tried to caulk all the gaps I can see. It got "fun" as there are a ton of staples sticking out from the ceiling where the hardwood floor upstairs got nailed into. Stuck my fingers more than once on those smoothing out my caulk beads.

Here's a pic of the side wall with the light switch from my office there.
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m8/drostowsky/butter.jpg

Here's that wall with some R-21 on it now. I ran out of insulation so gotta make a HD run later today. I did all the easy parts first that didnt need any cutting, but I should get this done later today.
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m8/drostowsky/insulation1.jpg

Put some R-30 in the ceiling. I gotta get more of that too. Only so much insulation that I can squish into a Camry. :) I really wanted to get around my HVAC pipes first. I also put some of the self-adhesive R-4 1/8" thick insulation on the pipes before I got started. Seems to really help deaden the sound on the pipes quite a bit. No more banging on an empty trash can sound. Its more of a dull "thunk" now. I stuffed a bunch of the R-30 around it too and that really took any bite out of the echoes there.
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m8/drostowsky/ceiling.jpg

Oh, I can smell the drywall coming soon! I need some motivation tonight so Im going to set up the projector again and get some "religion" with the kids. :)

Woops. So that's how you're supposed to seal up a wiring box. Doh! I kind of put some goo on mine but nowhere near what you did. Oh well, guess I'll cross my fingers and hope I did a good enough job ;)

Have fun with that last insulation part, it was the cutting and stuffing the small areas that took most of my time. But doing the drywall will be a glorious thing (especially if someone else is doing it :cool: ). Then it really feels like a room.

Mike

I kind of put some goo on mine but nowhere near what you did.
I didnt do it entirely "right" either. Youre supposed to butter the entire back of it! :eek: I just happened to be running low on caulk so that was good enough I think. I had bigger fish to fry...errr...cracks to seal. I suspect that if you cover all the holes and gaps then the back doesnt need as much. Im sure a true audiophile would object.

Got another bundle of R-30 & R-21. Finished the side wall except for where the dimmers are at. I still have to put a 4th dimmer in place for the rope light. I havent wired that up yet. I did run the wires to where I want the outlet. Just need the time when I can shut off electricity Not easy when the kids scream when the TV goes off...worse, the lights in the kitchen. The boss doesnt like that one bit. ;)

Anyway, the sound is really starting to deaden now. The ceiling is the biggest adventure with lots of obstacles. Im did a lot of the easy parts and places I knew I wouldnt be working. Still need to get another R-30 (or two) to finish up the ceiling. Im really happy with the way the noise it getting dampened now! I cant imagine how it can get much quieter with Linacoustic.

But doing the drywall will be a glorious thing (especially if someone else is doing it ). Then it really feels like a room.
Amen to that. It will feel like Im "done" then. Yes, itll be glorious watching someone else do the drywall work in there. Its a charge Im glad to incur. I wonder if theyll just run screaming with all these wires and conduit dangling from the walls? :)

Not sure what your experience was like but my guys were awesome (2 of them). They just precut the holes (I'd recommend or you'll get green glue all over your wires and crap and that'll never come off -- okay, never is strong but it's close ;) ) and then they had me feed the wires through the hole while they held the sheet in the air and then slowly slid it up to the wall while I kept pressure on the wires to keep them from touching the glue. It worked out a lot better than I thought it would to be honest (I tried wrapping them in saran wrap to begin with and that was comical at best :p ).

Mike

Took about 10min and got everything hooked back up. Man, with all this insulation, things are mighty clear acoustically. Nice and quiet. Need to get my rear surrounds ordered sometime soon. Those Bose bookshelf speakers are comical. BTW, I dusted off the Panny 900. Who would have thought? A Panny 900 collecting dust. :)

Hey, whats my daughter watching? Ooops flash.
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m8/drostowsky/shrek2.jpg

Oh yea, its Shrek getting kicked in the groin by Donkey.
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m8/drostowsky/shrek2groin.jpg

BTW, I was in "row 2" when I took these pics. Stretching out and making sure I can fit comfortably when I get the riser built. Itll be 6' deep by 10' wide by 8" high when done.

So, In my idle time today I starting dreaming about drywall. Whipped out my color palette from Sherwin Williams and started looking for blue paint for the ceiling. I kind of like this Lapis Lazuli color (nice name huh?). Its a lot darker than it looks as I was holding it in the window to get extra light on it. Should look pretty cool with blue rope light. Im still shopping around for LED rope light. Want the LED's just because theyre cooler (from a temperature perspective). Ill probably only get a 2"-3" reveal from the crown molding so I wanted a cool burning light. Besides the LED's just last longer.
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m8/drostowsky/ceilingcolor.jpg

David, where'd you find that wall plate? I've never seen one like that.

Eddie,

I got it here (http://www.home-technology-store.com/detail.aspx?ID=2364). Warning, it aint cheap! :eek:

Its pretty nice. The only thing that 'suprised' me about it was the subwoofer connector on the back is F-pin. My cable is RCA so I need an adapter. Other than that, I think its going to work out well.

Thanks for the info. Page bookmarked. You're right, it ain't cheap but would make for a very clean install.

PartsExpress.com usually has great prices on things like this:
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=300-618

Yea, I did see that one, and was very tempted. I was looking for a 2-gang 7.1 plate so it would fit my 2-gang adjustable Carlon box. I still havent resolved how to do a 3-gang box with 1" extensions.

Today I arrive home from work to find all my keystone connectors have arrived for the game center! Yay! I can "dry run" the ole PS2. I plan on putting the game ports in the front of the riser, but near the wall with the windows (i.e. close to power). Anyway, this being my first time using keystones I thought theyd be a plug n play. Not. Lesson #1, not all keystone connectors are made to play nice with their neighbors.

Exhibit A. Ethernet RJ45 plugged into the plate, and trying to put a composite audio jack next to it. Notice the intrusion by the Ethernet jack into the other slots space. Incidentally, this pic has 3 Ethernets in it. I was fooling around with the connectors, but rest assured theres S-vid + toslink to replace two of the Eths.
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m8/drostowsky/keystone1.jpg

Exhibit B. From the back side, same story.
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m8/drostowsky/keystone2.jpg

Fortunately, its all plastic and soft. My Kludge Engineering company took it over and pulled out a utility knife with a sharp blade. I cut off the "tabs" that were getting invaded from the composite connectors and everything then fit. That said, the game center wall plate worked out, but only if I put the composite connectors on one side running vertical, and the "big" connectors vertically on the other side. No way to put the Ethernet and S-Video (or Toslink) side by side. Those three guys were just bulky! I supposed I could have done some creative carving on those too if needed, but geez.
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m8/drostowsky/keystone3.jpg

The good news is I was able to fire up the PS2 and have it on the big brown "screen" tonight! :cool: I have cables run for component and HDMI. That should make my game center a bit more future proof. Ill just change out the wall plate if needed. Plus, having the 2" conduit really future proofs things.

Here's the PS2 is all its grand S-Video! With the brown screen, could have used some brightness control in the game. :)

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m8/drostowsky/callofduty.jpg

Another occurrence today is that I bought my LED rope lights on ebay. 52' of blue glory for 120V outlet. Cant wait to see those guys in action! Step 1, wire up the outlet to a dimmer. Its on my "To do" list this week.

On someone else's thread I saw a really cool tip on the hidden rope light. Aluminumumumum tape around the inside of the crown molding to reflect all the light upward. Makes perfect sense. Dont need any light going down. I got a bunch of foil tape left over from the duct work so Ill probably use that.

Great stuff so far David,

Been lurking in your thread past week or so. Although you got your Keystone connectors to work, just wanted to mention that you can usually find the Leviton keystones at HD. Their ethernet keystone is the same width throughout, has it's own little punch down tool and cap, and would not have caused the issue you had with spacing. Same with the S-video. The only thing im not sure of is if they carry the optical connector (at least not at HD, maybe online). They have up to a 12 keystone 2 gang wallplate which makes it pretty flexible as well.

Anyways glad to see you made it work, just thought I'd mention it in case you need to move up to your other options in the near future. Again great job and keep it coming.

Thanks for the info. Ill go check out the keystones at HD. Ive seen them at Lowes in the past, but they seemed to have a narrow selection. Id like to get some more wall plates too for the equipment closet if I can find the right connectors. Mostly the video connections now (HDMI, SVid, & Component). Probably need another Toslink too. I think Im done with the cable, phone, & eth for now. I dont think Ive ever seen them at the HD I typically go to, but Im finding out not all HDs carry the same stuff. Fortunately, Im centrally located between 3 of them. :) I think Ive seen them in passing at RadioShack too when I was looking for something else.

The ones I've seen at seen Lowes are a diferrent make and are larger, they also seem to be a little more expensive and not as versatile. The ones at HD would fit into the connector plate you have now (from the looks of it in the picture above). Three of the RCA composite that you have above would also work for your component connection, that's what I used to run Component cables plus 2 more for audio from 1st floor to 2nd, you just have to stick to common connection order (RBG) since they're not properly color coded .

All the HD's I've been to have had them in the next aisle over from the electrical boxes, usually with tv accessories and such. They have white, almond, and black.

I bought all of my Leviton quickports from www.partsexpress.com and www.milestek.com Reasonably priced and they work really well.

Three of the RCA composite that you have above would also work for your component connection, that's what I used to run Component cables plus 2 more for audio from 1st floor to 2nd, you just have to stick to common connection order (RBG) since they're not properly color coded .
Excellent point. I didnt have an explicit yellow composite video cable anyway. I have a bundled composite white/black audio + S-vid, and then a separate component RGB cable. I wondered a bit about that last night, but just didnt get around to trying it. Thanks. Im going to use my component cable for that.

After a bunch of pondering on all the cables to the equipment closet, I finally took the plunge and routed the cables and low voltage boxes where I wanted them. The top 2-gang box is where the 7.1 speaker cables end. Next down I put the projector cables through one of the holes in my 2x10" conduit tamer. Ive got a bulk cable wall plate on order that will cover that. Next down is a single gang box that has the phone, ethernets (office + game center), phone, and satellite Rg6. Lastly, the game center cables will be in a 2-gang box with bulk cable connector.
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m8/drostowsky/closetbox1.jpg

Just a little extra cable. Think the drywall people will like working around that?! :)
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m8/drostowsky/extra.jpg

I put in all the R-13 insulation I had. Just stuffing it everywhere. Thought I bought too much, but man theres pockets everywhere to cram more!
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m8/drostowsky/moreinsul.jpg

I also ripped a 2x4 down to 2x2.25" and used pieces of that to tame the conduit running to the game center. In the below pic, where the jug of biscuits is on the floor is where the 2nd row starts. The game center cords will end there too obviously. Im thinking with the conduit Ill build a little door that I can open to get at the conduit, but it wont otherwise be exposed. Most of the "future" cables I already have (component + HDMI) will be sitting next to the conduit as well. Otherwise, my keystone plate will be the only thing anyone sees.
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m8/drostowsky/gcinsul.jpg

Been pondering the columns on the sconce wall some as well. I wanted to put some nailers in the wall before the drywall goes up to give me some extra "meat" to mount the columns onto. In the below pic, the 2x8" I cut are just friction fit at the moment while I plan on where good places to mount the columns. Im pretty well set on the top and bottom piece. Its the middle Im not sure of yet. I think itll be at 36" where the chair rail will be.
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m8/drostowsky/nailer.jpg

I know where my 4 columns are going to go. Im still a bit unsure on dimensions. I have a picture in my mind on the design of the columns. Im the worst freehand drawer in the world, but here's my sketch. My sconces are a tad over 6" wide so I figured the top part of the column above the chair rail could be 6" wide. Id like it to be a fluted column look above the chair rail. Below the chair rail is a pretty standard picture frame box for the top part of the column to "rest" on. It should all be red oak probably stained with Red Sedona (Minwax).
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m8/drostowsky/column.jpg

Got home to a fun package waiting today! My blue rope light arrived. Wow! Its blue, and its bright! Will get a pic posted soon. I struggled tonight for some reason wiring up the last outlet on the ceiling to the dimmer so I could dim the rope light. Rope light is 120V so it just plugs into a normal outlet. For some reason the Lutron dimmer I had as a spare (but wrong color), didnt work right. It would not dim or give power to save my life. I struggled with this thing for a couple of hours. :confused: I think I may have toasted it or something in my bumbling. Ultimately, I had a regular light switch on hand, so I used that temporarily. That works. It switched the outlet just fine. Ive got the right color Lutron dimmer on order so maybe in a couple of days when that arrives life will be better. Anyone ever use a Lutron Maestro dimmer to dim an outlet?

Finished up the window jamb extensions finally! Yay! Its ready for drywall!

Need to button up the recessed lights tomorrow and finish up the R-30 insulation, then Im basically ready for drywall.

Oh yea, there's that little bit about cleaning out the room. Ha, oops. Fortunately, thats a reasonably easy thing (I hope). Never fun though.

Got my first drywall quote, $2K. Yep, just what I expected. This guy does good work though. Will be getting another quote. It can wait a week (I think).

Quick pic of the blue LED rope light. It lights up the room all by itself. I can just paint everything white and let this light make everything blue. Wow. Needs that dimmer! :)
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m8/drostowsky/blue.jpg

Quick pic of the blue LED rope light. It lights up the room all by itself. I can just paint everything white and let this light make everything blue. Wow. Needs that dimmer! :)
Wowee, that IS bright!! :)

Wowee, that IS bright!!
Yea, the funny thing was when I had the circuit off for the lights, I simply plugged in the rope light into the wall outlet. Instant work light! The room was pitch black otherwise. :)

Put on "The Wall", go pick some mushrooms, and you're in business. :) Only kidding, everything's looking good.

Put on "The Wall", go pick some mushrooms, and you're in business.
Haha. Actually, I have PF Live At Pompeii on DVD (my personal fav) :). I did think the same thing too. I noticed it had a slight black light effect on some yellow platic wire nuts I had laying around. I wonder if I can dangle 100 lava lamps from the ceiling too? Wasnt what I had in mind, but its pretty cool. Hopefully, once the dimmer comes, thatll tone it down.

Haha. I love "Live at Pompeii" too. That's a great music DVD. I loved Pink Floyd as a kid. My lifestyle is a little, umm, different now that I'm older. The only CD I still play on a regular basis is "Animals" which in my opinion is their best album.

The theater is really coming along David. Can't wait to see what it looks like with the drywall up. You do good work.

The theater is really coming along David. Can't wait to see what it looks like with the drywall up. You do good work.
Thank you very much. I cant wait for the drywall to go up either! The 'boss' blinked at the first drywall quote so Ill probably have to wait a week or two before the work actually begins while we shop around for a drywall contractor.

The only CD I still play on a regular basis is "Animals"
Animals is solid. I have a live CD from that tour. Pompeii is my all-time fav, but the 2nd CD of Umma Gumma is probably my favorite studio. Meddle isnt far behind. One of the coolest parts of Pompeii is the outtakes of PF in the studio creating Dark Side. Good stuff. Ive been pondering going to see Roger perform Dark Side in Seattle around Oct 10th. My college roommate was a PF maniac, and I couldnt stand them 24 hours a day. Drove me nuts, but I love them now that Im away from him. If I see the video Delicate Sound of Thunder one more time... Well, lets just say I might not be careful with that axe. ;)

Today was more ceiling insulation. Im just short of R-30 to finish it all. Curses. A full "bale" is probably going to be too much. No choice though. Will have to get one last one tomorrow and just cram it everywhere I can.

Finished putting in 2x8's for nailers on the 4 columns along the sconce wall. Finally settled on putting the middle one centered at 36". You can see two of the column nailers here.
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m8/drostowsky/nailers.jpg

Around the bookshelf opening, I ripped some 2x4's so the new bookshelf can rest on something besides the front part of the framing. The original builder just set some wood blocks on the foundation loose before. Not sure why they didnt secure them, but I did.
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m8/drostowsky/shelfbrace.jpg

Here's the switched outlet I put in last night for the rope light. I rigged it (by breaking the metal tab off between the two hot screws) such that the bottom outlet is controlled by the switch, but the top is always on. I didnt have a huge reason to do that, but I figured it was a "just in case."
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m8/drostowsky/outlet.jpg

Here's a closeup of one of the more "interesting" corners in the window jamb that I finished yesterday. You can easily see the original window jamb was skewed. I had to notch the vertical one with my wood chisels and then cut the horizontal one to 7/8" so I didnt repeat history. I discovered that top window jamb was jutted out quite a bit on one end, but then stuck in on the other end. Its almost a 1/2" difference if you measure from the wall on each end. Well, I think I got it all evened out now though.
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m8/drostowsky/jambnotch.jpg

Finally, I rounded out the day by running around the room with my staple gun strategically stapling the insulation around the outlets and other assorted places.

Tomorrow I suspect Ill finish the insulation and then start working on the RG6 satellite cables outside. I drilled the holes and ran the cable to the equipment closet, but I didnt yet run them to the dish. Just got a big pile of cable sitting outside where it feeds into the HT. Need to put some paint on the house where the old RG6 was. They put the original cable on the house before painting anything.

Nice thinking with the nailers -- didn't even think of doing something like that with my setup! Would be nice. I'll just put glue blocks on with the drywall anchors and then secure the columns to the glue blocks. Don't think I'll actually glue them though and I might go with screws instead of nails, haven't decided yet ... on one hand the nails will be easier to hide and on the other the screws would allow for easy access should I _ever_ need to get back there (can't think why...but you never can...).

Can't wait to see the drywall -- good luck on getting a better quote :)

Mike

on one hand the nails will be easier to hide and on the other the screws would allow for easy access should I _ever_ need to get back there (can't think why...but you never can...).
Yea, I know what you mean. Ive been trying to figure out the best process for attaching the columns to the wall and hide everything too. I figured Id use my biscuit joiner to attach the fronts to the sides to hide those attachments (being the most obvious to an observer). Then put on some wood blocks onto the drywall. Gently slide the column over the wood blocks, and then I could (as discreetly as possible) nail the sides to the wood blocks. Hopefully, I could put the nails close to the drywall and then maybe they get covered by the Linacoustic that butts up next to it. Either way, Id sink the nails in and wood putty over them as best I can. In my case, theres pretty much nothing Id need to get at so I think Im good there.

I feel electrically vindicated this morning. Yesterday while at HD, I picked up the cheapest Lutron dimmer I could find, $10. Wife & kids went blueberry picking this morning so I got to kill the power, and put this dimmer on the outlet with the rope light. Viola! I can dim my rope lights! Woo-hoo! Interesting with this dimmer it has basically 3 light levels. Blazing suns light up the room neon blue, medium blue with slight reflections, and barely on blue. Cant wait for nighttime now so I can see what itll be like! :)

I laid awake last night fretting over Linacoustic + GOM, ha. How to attach at the seams?! How am I going to get it around the window boxes with minimum seams?! Fortunately, there are lots of excellent threads on AVS to browse through. Bud & Ronnie have particularly excellent threads for this. I tend to worry about this kind of detail for awhile until I get a good plan. Unfortunately, I dont have a plan right now. One of those where I just pull up a chair in the theater late at night and stare at it until I figure it out. ;)

Off to HD for (hopefully) the last of the R30 insulation. It dawned on me last night that any extra can go into the firebox to keep that echo box under control. Hopefully, itll ultimately be hidden by the TBD entertainment center.

I laid awake last night fretting over Linacoustic + GOM, ha.

I figured others do this also. It's really hard to say how many nights I've lost an hour or two of sleep because I couldn't stop thinking about the HT.

I figured others do this also. It's really hard to say how many nights I've lost an hour or two of sleep because I couldn't stop thinking about the HT.

It's actually good to know I'm not the only one going crazy here...

Sometimes I'll find that I've just stood in the doorway for 45 minutes going over everything in my mind of what I need to do next and how am I going to solve this or install that or where to put that or silver vs black trim plates in the equipment closet, or, or, or...

LOL!

Mike

Sometimes I'll find that I've just stood in the doorway for 45 minutes going over everything in my mind
LOL. To an observer, it probably appears youve gone catatonic. Hey, its fun to go crazy! Im going to do some serious insanity once my drywall goes up and I have to start being artistic and build cabinets. Lithium on standby...

LOL. To an observer, it probably appears youve gone catatonic. Hey, its fun to go crazy! Im going to do some serious insanity once my drywall goes up and I have to start being artistic and build cabinets. Lithium on standby...

Heh, fortunately no one's up at 2:00am to see me ;)

Yeah, once real things start going in be prepared for the "ooh, if I changed this it would look cool, or if I added this...". I eventually had to just draw a line and tell myself I could always add things later (birthday gifts, father's day, etc).

Mike

Today I got to spend some quality time under my deck with the spiders. Hooking up the 2 new RG6 cables to the dish from the HT, and installing the Berk 3-in 4-out splitter. Took me awhile to recall which two inputs were the satellite vs the antenna. Cranked the upstairs TV way up so I could hear when I got a good connection. I have my receiver currently upstairs in my living room, but I ultimately would like to get a new rcvr for the HT. I have a dual LNB dish.

I dragged the satellite rcvr downstairs and hooked it up to the projector. One of my RG6's worked, but the other didnt. Grrr. :mad: I think I screwed up crimping the connector probably. One was too tight because it didnt screw on. The screw cap part is stuck. Ooops. Unfortuately, I ran out of connectors, so I couldnt call a mulligan on it. Will have to pick up some more tomorrow, and see which end of the cable I messed up. At least I got one of them working so I know I got TV downstairs!

And you know the spiders really appreciated the quality time, too. ;)

And you know the spiders really appreciated the quality time
Yes, they do. Theyll be getting some more quality time today when I slither under the deck again to debug this RG6 cable. I may have screwed up the cable too when the very FIRST staple from my staple gun I put in to hang up the cable onto the house "missed" and went into the cable. After that one, I just wound up using my nail in staples. I have this nagging feeling that it was a "lucky" shot and split the copper wire in two. Of course, Im hoping for the best and that its just a crimping connector issue first. Would really hate having to rerun another RG6. Good thing the drywall isnt up yet. :rolleyes: Mental note, test my ethernet & IR repeater cables this week too.

Yay! Came home and recrimped the RG6's in the equipment closet. Both work, and both can easily turn. :)

Got my Linacoustic ordered today. Supposed to pick it up tomorrow. Should be fun (as always) smooshing it into the back seat of my Camry. Thanks to Buds thread, he measured the roll so I know itll fit. :) Wont be able to use it for awhile, but might as well get it while Im in a general slowdown.

Got another drywall contractor coming Wed. The 'boss' said this one should be the last quote. So, by the end of the week I should have a contractor all picked out and Ill be ready.

Need to go test out the Buffalo IR repeater tonight before my fantasy football draft...

Yay! Came home and recrimped the RG6's in the equipment closet. Both work, and both can easily turn. :) You know they read your previous post and were expecting you, right? ;)
Glad to hear your fix was an easy one and worked out so quickly.

David - what components did you end up ordering for your buffalo IR repeater.

From what I've read I'll need 1 x Sensor ($28), 2 x 4 Emitter Blocks ($53), 8 x Flashers ($48), 1 x Power ($10) which all adds up to more that a Hot Link Pro + Extender kit ($130)

Great you fixed your RG6 issue.

Cheers,
Mark

You know they read your previous post and were expecting you, right?
They know Im coming again. I still have to go back under and shore everything up. I didnt ground everything properly and some of the cables I used were way too long so I have to clean that up. The good news is, I can do that whenever, drywall or not.

what components did you end up ordering for your buffalo IR repeater.
Mark,

I got:
IR-350 = Sensor
IR-100 = 4 emitter block
DV9-500 = power supply
and 4 flashers.

I reserve the right to expand, but I really only have 4 things that need controlling right now.

Satellite, Rcvr, DVD, & Projector.

Of course, I overlooked something vital for the projector flasher that took me all of 2 seconds to realize now that Im playing with it. I dont have a flasher that wires up to the Cat5 that I ran to the projector. Duh! Hmm, Im not sure if I ever saw a flasher that didnt already have the mini-plug on it. Research time!

I think its common to splice the flasher for the PJ

Thanks for info.......at moment I need 5 flashers but I'm sure Ill need more :D

Hmmm, I wonder if for the projector I need a long 3.5mm mono cable and an adapter like this? (http://www.smarthome.com/81281.html)

I think its common to splice the flasher for the PJ
Gotcha. Thats what I thought of doing. Put on the old Kludge Engineering hat (it fits like a glove). I certainly didnt see anything at Smarthome that just stuck out.

BTW, it was pretty simple to wire up and make work. 5 min. Looks just as simple to expand when you need more emitters.

Whew, get out my soldering iron & flux (and microscope)! I cut one of my IR flashers to splice into my Cat5e. Boy, that be a puny little wire. Probably should just get a 35' mono cable and be done with it. Oh well, I made the cut, might as well try it out.

Ok, so I spliced together my Cat5e to the projector and the IR flasher. What a kludge! I dunno. Dont think Im going to live with myself looking at that soldered wire. It works, but it was such a fine solder, I dont think itll hold up well. Probably go out tomorrow and find a nice long 3.5mm mono extension cord.

Has anyone ever discussed or brought up possible health issues with Linacoustic being exposed on walls? Talking with the Linacoustic distributor this morning and he said its unwise to have it exposed on your drywall unless its covered good. I told him about covering it with fabric and he seemed cool with that. He said its nasty stuff to breath in over long periods of time (ie. along the same lines as the asbestos story).

Got my Linacoustic today! Headed down to the distributor at lunch today and picked up my 4'x100'x1" roll. Its comical as I pull around back to the loading dock. Theres these huge trucks getting pallets of insulation loaded in them. I back in my Camry like I belong with all these other 18 wheeler trucks. The roof of my car doesnt even reach the edge of their loading dock. Ha! Got it at EJ Bartells in Renton, WA in case any Seattle folk need to know. Excellent people. Easy order even though they arent accustomed to "walk-ins." One thing I noticed right away, that roll is heavier than I thought! Fit like a dream in the backseat though.

Got some GOM samples on order and Ive been trying to think ahead to where to mount furring strips and/or build panels.

Just so I know, I understand if fiberglass is exposed and disturbed one should wear a mask but undisturbed such as on a wall behind a screen it shouldn't be a hazzard .

Art

Has anyone ever discussed or brought up possible health issues with Linacoustic being exposed on walls? Talking with the Linacoustic distributor this morning and he said its unwise to have it exposed on your drywall unless its covered good. I told him about covering it with fabric and he seemed cool with that. He said its nasty stuff to breath in over long periods of time (ie. along the same lines as the asbestos story).

I'm a big proponent of green healthy building practices. I try to bring as few toxic chemicals into my home as possible. There are too many that I can't avoid that I don't want to add to the load unneccessarily. There's a theory of toxic load threshold that I won't get into, but you get the idea where I'm coming from. Linacoustic is made with Formaldehyde. Make the decision for yourself whether or not you want to put it in your home. Me? I wouldn't do it, but everyone's different. Also, I can't see how covering the Linacoustic with GOM would stop it from outgassing formaldehyde. Is it going to kill you? No. Is it good for you? Maybe not.

Here is a discussion about Linacoustic safety: http://archive.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?s=&threadid=371564

Thanks for the information. I guess being in a house loaded with popcorn ceilings should probably worry me more (, he says with a cough and a wheeze).

Selected my drywall contractor today. Yay! He came over today and we walked through everything. They start on Tuesday. Everything will be smooth wall when he's done. I know they'll do great work. Saw his portfolio of pix he's done around town. Wow! Some of those homes he's worked on were amazing. Supposedly all the sheetrock will be hung on Tues and the rest of the week wil be mud n sanding. Cant wait for those walls to go up!

Once the walls go in, I paint, and then the 'boss' wants the HT to be carpetted ASAP. Woo hoo! Makes my woodworking a little more difficult, but its doable. Done that with the rest of the house though without dirtying up the carpet, so stuff is going to happen soon!

Got screen samples of the Carada Brilliant White and Classic Cinema White today. Have to play around with those later tonight.

If your guys are anything like the caffeine-hyped crew who did my renovation a few months ago, you'd better steer clear of the room while they're working. Seriously, I couldn't believe how quickly these guys rocked the entire house. They did over three-quarters of both floors in the first day, finished the rocking the next morning, and got the first coat of mud on almost everything that second day. They were here only in the morning on the third day to finish the first mudding. A completely different set of guys came by to sand the first mud and apply the second and third coats. In just over six days, they had everything in almost 2000 square feet done. I've seen commercial pros work small rooms quickly before, but this was completely different.

All that being said, I hope everything goes smoothly (no pun intended) for you next week. :)

The drywall is a huge hump to get over. Makes a big difference as well, feels like liveable space then.

Bud

Yea, it is a big hump to get over. I somewhat laughingly feel like "Im done." Even though I know I havent even begun the "creative" part of the project. :)

Those drywall guys do fly. Ive seen them do their thing in other parts of my house (kitchen and living room). If it were me doing it, it would take me forever.

I know the significant other will like that and the new carpet. I caught a few elbows in the ribs when it was blazingly hot outside, "Remember how we USED to be able to sleep in the cool basement?!" Ah, nothing like a little motivation sometimes. ;)

We went out carpet shopping tonight. I thought I was going with a blue motiff, but all that changed when we laid eyes on Mohawk Elegant Comfort Wine color. Wow, its a seriously bold red. Softest (are probably one of the more expensive) carpet they had too. Nice! Will wait until drywall is up, then we'll take a few different samples home. Need to match it with the GOM.

Hopefully someone in 'the know' can guide me. Was wiring up my ethernet keystone jack in my home office that will connect my PC's to the HT. Do I use T568A or T568B wiring? I used T568A. From what Ive read this seems to be the government standard so I figured that its probably what I should follow as well. Does it matter one way or another?

Short answer: it doesn't matter. Just make sure you use the same one throughout your network. But....I actually use B because it is the most common. I don't know about the government using A, but everything I've ever seen said B is MUCH more common than A.

I could be wrong about this, but I think all store bought patch cables are B. So, if you try to hook up any store bought cables with an A network, you'll have problems.

I do not think it matters. You just have to be consistent. All "A" or all "B". I used "A" for my home network.

See these:
http://www.duxcw.com/faq/network/diff568ab.htm
http://www.lashen.com/vendors/Leviton/Datacom/FAQ_TIA568.asp

Let me correct myself. I just searched and found this article. http://www.lanshack.com/make-cat5E.aspx

It says down near the bottom that although all pre-made patch cables are B, they will work fine on an A system. So it truly doesn't matter then.

Thanks for the info guys. I figured Id need to be at least consistent. I wasnt sure what all the off-the-shelf cables were using. Good to know that it doesnt matter.

Like others have said - providing so use same on bother the wall jacks and the patch panel you'll be fine.

Got my Carada screen samples today!

Brilliant White vs Classic Cinema White

Since the HT room is electronics "clean" at the moment while it awaits Tuedays drywall, I hooked up the AE900 to my PC and projected onto the samples. Went to a Hubble website to compare dark colors. I split a dark blue between the two samples. Really dark blue, approaching black. On the left is the Brilliant White, and on the right is the Classic Cinema White. No flash, but I had the light on in the room to give me real ambient light. Pretty easy to see which one more resembles blue and which is more 'washed out' I think.
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m8/drostowsky/hubble.jpg

Of course, when it came to whites, the Brilliant White was excellent. Dont have a pic of that, but the Cinema White wasnt nearly as pure white.

Decisions, decisions. I think I like the color to be darker so for now the Cinema White is the winner for me. However, looking at those clean whites on the Brilliant White was pretty sharp too.

Dont need to really do anything in the HT today. Everything is cleaned out essentially. Ho-hum. Just waitin' for drywall on Tues. I did start thinking about "whats next." Was looking at my window boxes and wondering how I was going to veneer them. The smaller window in the back of the room is easy. Nice and square. However, the larger window has a bit of a challenge. How do I cut the veneer around this?
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m8/drostowsky/lam1.jpg

The gauntlet was thrown down. I had some spare veneer scraps from a previous project (i.e. my Galaga machine), so I fiddled around to see if I could cut around with any accuracy. Not really. Even with a dinky little scrap it was hard to work with. The real piece is going to be about 10'4" x 10". Itll be very hard to freehand cut.

I decided making a template was probably the wisest choice. Got out my framing square and my screen....errrr....construction paper. I measured everything out and made a full sized drawing on the paper. Here's the notch that Ill have to make in the veneer.
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m8/drostowsky/lam2.jpg

Then, a handy razor blade and the framing square helped me cut out the template.
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m8/drostowsky/lam3.jpg

An almost perfect fit. Ooops. Forgot that edge had a notch. Good thing its paper. This can be corrected.
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m8/drostowsky/lam4.jpg

Will need to order my oak veneer from tapeease.com (great place!) next week. Once that arrives, I can transfer the paper template over to the veneer and hopefully all will be well.

Will need to tape up my template on the top part of the window box to see if it can be used for top and bottom, but I doubt it. Nothings been square in this house to begin with, so I dont think this will be either. :)

Got my Carada screen samples today!

Brilliant White vs Classic Cinema White

Since the HT room is electronics "clean" at the moment while it awaits Tuedays drywall, I hooked up the AE900 to my PC and projected onto the samples. Went to a Hubble website to compare dark colors. I split a dark blue between the two samples. Really dark blue, approaching black. On the left is the Brilliant White, and on the right is the Classic Cinema White. No flash, but I had the light on in the room to give me real ambient light. Pretty easy to see which one more resembles blue and which is more 'washed out' I think.
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m8/drostowsky/hubble.jpg

Of course, when it came to whites, the Brilliant White was excellent. Dont have a pic of that, but the Cinema White wasnt nearly as pure white.

Decisions, decisions. I think I like the color to be darker so for now the Cinema White is the winner for me. However, looking at those clean whites on the Brilliant White was pretty sharp too.


I'm just curious if you saw the projector central review of the Carada screen that said the gain of the Classic White was .65 because so much light passed directly through the thin screen material? I'm not sure what to make of that review, personally.

People in the know seem to think that the true gain of the Brilliant White is closer to 1.1 or 1.2, just a tiny bit above unity gain. In tests with the StudioTek130 (1.3 gain), everyone seems to agree that the ST is actually brighter. The upside is that the BW is close enough to the ST in terms of brightness and color accuracy that it's an excellent value as compared to Stewart's product.

Would you mind posting that picture again with the lights out, if it's not too much trouble. I too am comparing these screens, trying to decide what to get. :)

People in the know seem to think that the true gain of the Brilliant White is closer to 1.1 or 1.2
Wouldnt suprise me a bit if the reality wasnt nearly as good as the hype.

Would you mind posting that picture again with the lights out, if it's not too much trouble.
Sure. Just give me a little bit...

I'm just curious if you saw the projector central review of the Carada screen that said the gain of the Classic White was .65 because so much light passed directly through the thin screen material?
I actually hadnt seen that yet, but now Im sure to go looking for that info. I certainly wondered about that if shadows might show through. I guess that might mean some black material behind the screen would be in order. The Elite screen sample I got was actually black on the back. I should dig those up again and do a side by side with the Carada.

Would you mind posting that picture again with the lights out, if it's not too much trouble.
Here's the same pic with the lights off in the room. Its a basement room with very little ambient light in the room. You can tell its blue now on both sides. Again, the left side is the Brilliant White and the right side is the Classic Cinema White from Carada. The Cinema White still looks "richer" in color IMHO.
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m8/drostowsky/ea03b2f4.jpg

I tried a white comparison, but my camera turned it baby blue. Ill fiddle around a bit more with this and see if I can get a good pic of white comparisons.

Found my Elite screen samples.
Heres a pic with the lights off and no flash looking at our favorite forum website. The camera makes the colors a bit different, but its all relative.Top Left = Carada Brilliant White. Far Right = Carada Cinema White. Middle = Elite High Contrast Grey. Bottom Left = Elite Matte White.
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m8/drostowsky/a7462f2e.jpg

Same pic with lights on. Sorry for the wrinkles in the screen. My blue tape wasnt holding all that well. :)
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m8/drostowsky/78caa116.jpg

Looking at them closely, I think the Elite Matte White is better than the Brilliant White.

Found my Elite screen samples.
Heres a pic with the lights off and no flash looking at our favorite forum website. The camera makes the colors a bit different, but its all relative.Top Left = Carada Brilliant White. Far Right = Carada Cinema White. Middle = Elite High Contrast Grey. Bottom Left = Elite Matte White.
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m8/drostowsky/a7462f2e.jpg

Same pic with lights on. Sorry for the wrinkles in the screen. My blue tape wasnt holding all that well. :)
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m8/drostowsky/78caa116.jpg

Looking at them closely, I think the Elite Matte White is better than the Brilliant White.

I was forgetting the #1 rule of picking a screen, and that's to pick a screen that compliments the projector. You have a Panny LCD projector, right? I imagine with that projector you have plenty of brightness, but less than optimum shadow detail and black. Because of these factors, the pic will probably look best on one of the darker screen materials, which looks like what we're seeing here.

By the way, thanks for the extra pics. Very informative. :)

I know it's hard to tell from a sample, and harder still to tell from posted internet pictures, but I think the high contrast grey screen shots looks very nice.

Yep, I have the Panny AE900. Couldnt be happier with it (although I have no comparison being my first projector. :))

I know it's hard to tell from a sample, and harder still to tell from posted internet pictures, but I think the high contrast grey screen shots looks very nice.
Yea, it definitely sticks out among all the other samples, huh? Its color tones are definitely deeper and darker. My only problem was with the whites on it. They look...well...gray. Now that Ive got all 4 out, Ill have to re-examine that impression again. My first impression with the High Contrast Grey was that everything looked gray. Maybe my eye wasnt used to looking at it at first. Its all subjective I guess in the end.

By the way, thanks for the extra pics. Very informative.
No problem. Glad to help. It was instructive for me as well. Gives me something to fiddle around with while waiting for the drywall. :)

This demonstrates the whites. This supports my first impression that the Elite High Contrast Grey makes everything grey. Its such an obvious statement that gets lost in the technical mumbo-jumbo. Grey screen = grey image. Its like painting your wall pink and wondering why everything looks pink on the wall. Hello? McFly!

Up Left = Carada Brilliant White
Right = Carada Classic Cinema
Mid Left = Elite High Contrast Grey
Low Left = Elite Matte White.
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m8/drostowsky/50d41f71.jpg

This demonstrates the whites. This supports my first impression that the Elite High Contrast Grey makes everything grey. Its such an obvious statement that gets lost in the technical mumbo-jumbo. Grey screen = grey image. Its like painting your wall pink and wondering why everything looks pink on the wall. Hello? McFly!

Up Left = Carada Brilliant White
Right = Carada Classic Cinema
Mid Left = Elite High Contrast Grey
Low Left = Elite Matte White.
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m8/drostowsky/50d41f71.jpg

Based on all the shots we've seen up to this point, I think I prefer the Classic Cinema White screen with your projector. It sure doesn't look like a .65 gain (as the review indicated), at least not unless the Elite Matte White has an even lower gain than that! I find this very doubtful, and I'm beginning to suspect that that review was intentionally biased toward Stewart Filmscreen.

And you're right about that gray screen. That thing kills your whites. But the eye does have a tendency to adjust to whatever white point it's presented with, provided that it's not too dark. You might want to try watching some dark scenes (and bright scenes) from some movies and see which screen makes the image the most enjoyable overall.

Based on all the shots we've seen up to this point, I think I prefer the Classic Cinema White screen with your projector.
I agree. I think it gives the best balance between the lights and darks for my Panny.

You might want to try watching some dark scenes (and bright scenes) from some movies and see which screen makes the image the most enjoyable overall.
When I got the Elite samples some time ago, I put on some Star Trek movies & TV. Black definitely looked black, but the greyed out whites stuck out like a sore thumb to me. Will have to juryrig up something with my DVD player in my office to double check with some movies.

I'm beginning to suspect that that review was intentionally biased toward Stewart Filmscreen.
That could very well be. Ive been in many a Stewart showrooms and I certainly didnt walk away in any situation thinking that I just HAD to shell out $2K-$3K for a screen. Theyre very nice, but they didnt just blow me away thinking what I want was substandard. I wonder if I can get some Stewart samples and look at those?

Drywallers got an early jump today and dropped off a heavy gift or two.
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m8/drostowsky/f396bf4c.jpg
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m8/drostowsky/62151038.jpg

Cant wait to come home from work tomorrow and to see walls!

Would love to share pix of my hung drywall, but nobody showed up yesterday! They said they were coming at 8am, but by 8:30am I had to leave for work and no workers were there. I stopped by my house over lunchtime, and still no workers. Grrrr. :mad: I proceed to call them and only get voice mails all afternoon. By 5pm I was fumed at no response (and considering I gave them a 50% downpayment). Bye-bye money! I tried them a few more times before I called my bank and put a stop payment on the check. Finally, around 6pm, the supervisor calls me to "check in" how things went today. I blast on him about no communication and no work done. He freaks and calls his workers. He calls back to tell me the workers were going to do it at the end of the day and were on their way over to start. Ok, I know these guys can hang stuff fast, but thats just silly. Starting my job at 6pm is unacceptable I tell him. I tell him that his workers arent welcome at that time and they better come back tomorrow morning. He was very apologetic and clearly embarrassed. Obviously, they had a huge communication problem yesterday. I told him theyd get a new downpayment once I saw the drywall hung today. We'll see how things go today. I still think theyll do great work judging by the work Ive seen of theirs. So far Im ahead in this deal, Ive got the drywall and they dont have any money. :rolleyes: I remain positive and optimistic about this. Im sure theyll redeem themselves. The supervisor is the one doing the mudding and sanding so it screwed up his schedule too as he wanted to start on that today. No sympathy from me though on that.

I agree. I think it gives the best balance between the lights and darks for my Panny.


When I got the Elite samples some time ago, I put on some Star Trek movies & TV. Black definitely looked black, but the greyed out whites stuck out like a sore thumb to me. Will have to juryrig up something with my DVD player in my office to double check with some movies.


That could very well be. Ive been in many a Stewart showrooms and I certainly didnt walk away in any situation thinking that I just HAD to shell out $2K-$3K for a screen. Theyre very nice, but they didnt just blow me away thinking what I want was substandard. I wonder if I can get some Stewart samples and look at those?


I believe you should be able to get samples from Stewart.

One quick question: Is your panny operating on a fairly new bulb? Keep in mind, your bulb's brightness will drop off substantially as it ages. Over in the FP forum, one member suggests putting an ND filter in front of the lens to see what it's going to look like once the bulb dims. Because of the nature of aging bulbs, a screen that it "just right" on a new bulb may me too dim after the bulb has broken in, which I believe takes 200-300 hours or so.

One quick question: Is your panny operating on a fairly new bulb?
My bulb is definitely new. < 50 hrs on it. Thats good to know that I should expect to dim over time. Hadnt considered that.

I got some Da-lite samples ordered yesterday. Looking at the Cinema Vision & High Contrast Cinema Vision. Supposedly, theyre a step up from Carada. Should be interesting.

My bulb is definitely new. < 50 hrs on it. Thats good to know that I should expect to dim over time. Hadnt considered that.

I got some Da-lite samples ordered yesterday. Looking at the Cinema Vision & High Contrast Cinema Vision. Supposedly, theyre a step up from Carada. Should be interesting.


If you find the time to take some more screen shots with all of your samples (including your new ones), I think those pics are very helpful to people. I know I for one enjoy looking at them.

If you find the time to take some more screen shots with all of your samples (including your new ones), I think those pics are very helpful to people. I know I for one enjoy looking at them.
No problem. Ill do that once the Da-lites arrive. I ordered them from Da-lite once before but they never arrived, so this is attempt #2 for them. Ill try to get some from Stewart as well just for comparison.

I told him they'd get a new downpayment once I saw the drywall hung today. We'll see how things go today. I still think theyll do great work judging by the work Ive seen of theirs. So far Im ahead in this deal, Ive got the drywall and they dont have any money. :rolleyes: I remain positive and optimistic about this. Im sure theyll redeem themselves. The supervisor is the one doing the mudding and sanding so it screwed up his schedule too as he wanted to start on that today. No sympathy from me though on that.David: Sorry to hear of your contractor's scheduling/communication screw-up, but extremely happy :D to see you took the hard line with them regarding the down payment. You just can't affort to cut these guys any slack, or they'll keep doing it to everyone. :(

You just can't affort to cut these guys any slack, or they'll keep doing it to everyone.
Exactly. The comical part is Im 5'10" & 150lbs, and this supervisor has me by 6" and 50-60lb of tattooed muscle. Good thing I have an intimidating glare... :) He seems like a decent jovial guy though. We shall see. Going home to check up on them at lunch...

Nobody had to die today. Came home and found.....walls! :eek:
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m8/drostowsky/10794907.jpg

I actually had to do one more butt kick to get them over as I came home at lunch to find nobody there. I called the supervisor and he said the hanger told him he was on his way over at 7am. Must have been one heck of a commute!!! I was half tempted to call him up when I came home and tell him nobody still hasnt shown up, but that would have been cruel (and probably deserving) punishment. ;)
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m8/drostowsky/70f55569.jpg
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m8/drostowsky/cb25837f.jpg
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m8/drostowsky/d7b02c53.jpg
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m8/drostowsky/93d3817b.jpg
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m8/drostowsky/15261266.jpg

Got more pix, but was being somewhat selective. Woohoo! Life is good.

Drywall good. :D

Drywall looks good....how do you plan to cover the windows?

Robert

Drywall looks good....how do you plan to cover the windows?
Thank you. Im pretty pleased now that its started. The windows originally had wood Roman shades on them. Pre-HT, I used to just despise them because no light could ever possibly get in the room. Funny now as Im going 180 on that. I will find some new Roman shades (old ones were 35+ yr old and falling apart) for them that match the decor of the room. The screen area gets very little light from the windows as it is. Its typically the most shadowed part of the room. Getting the shades will probably be the last thing I do. Outside the windows, I have my deck right above them so my deck does a lot of shielding of the sun anyway.

EDIT: Besides, I live in Seattle. We're just darn lucky to see the sun as much as a groundhog! Sunlight? Whats that?! :)

Wont bore you with too many drywall pictures. However, the drywall dudes showed up without me even having to call anyone and flame on. :eek: . They cleaned up the mess mostly and started to fill in some cracks and cover screws. I was told it would be 8 working days to finish everything at most, 6 more to go!

Ordered my moldings today from Baird Brothers (http://www.bairdbrothers.com/). HD & Lowes just dont have the red oak moldings that I want to get. They do have the right 3" crown so thats good. However, I wanted a 5.25" base and all I could find was 3.5". Im going with a built-up chair rail (i.e. 3 pieces of molding to make the chair rail) at 36". I wanted to make the chair rail jut out 1.5" (i.e. so the Linacoustic goes flush against it) so nothing standard fits the bill. Below the chair rail will be the classic picture frame boxes.

Still trying to come up with a solid way to build doors on the equipment closet. I think I want to have two sets of double doors. 1 pair to cover the top half of the closet (where the equipment will be), and 1 pair to cover the bottom half for general storage space.

David - Good progress on drywall. Your wallet might not be glad about the cost but I'm sure your back will be pleased a not doing the work (especially the mudding).

I've been looking for the 5.25 base moulding also. Have you ordered it yet? Just wondering what shipping charges are like.

Cheers,
Mark

Your wallet might not be glad about the cost but I'm sure your back will be pleased a not doing the work (especially the mudding).
My wallet and back agree that they are perfectly happy not doing the drywall. :) This experience had me revisiting if I shouldnt have taken a swag at doing it myself though.

I've been looking for the 5.25 base moulding also. Have you ordered it yet? Just wondering what shipping charges are like.
Yes, I placed the order. "Brutal" is about the best term I can describe for shipping from Ohio to Seattle. In my case, it was 25% of the molding price. It does depend on the lengths you buy. I got 8' pieces which is the max for UPS, otherwise its more. That said, Im at least happy I found a place that had quite a few molding options. I debated for a while getting a router and going DIY though.

Brought home my carpet sample choice. Mohawk Elegant Comfort - Wine color. Its super soft. Got to take a couple of pix of it with my wood stain (General Finishes - Georgian Cherry. 3 coats on my red oak) and paint colors. The ceiling will be Sherwin Williams - Cathedral Glass (the darkest blue you see. Its much darker in reality). Below the chair rail I will use Sherwin Williams - Salmon Suede (3rd from top/lightest color). Of course, theres the GOM Zirconia - Garnet.
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m8/drostowsky/carpet1.jpg
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m8/drostowsky/carpet3.jpg

Taping and mudding began on Friday. They even showed up on time in the morning. Hurrah! Well, ok, things are moving along now without me being an ogre. Here's a few pix.
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m8/drostowsky/mud2.jpg
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m8/drostowsky/mud1.jpg

Just went outside and got the mail. My Stewart screen samples came in the mail today. That was fast. Just made the request a few days ago. Studiotek 130 & Firehawk. Wow, that Firehawk is dark gray! I think I know what thatll do to the Panny's whites. GRAY! Will do some testing later when the lights go down.

Still waiting for the Da-lite samples.

One quick observation about the Stewart screen material that I have. They both have little shiny grits about the size of a grain of sand all sprinkled throughout the screen. Interesting. Definitely more different than either the Carada or Elite samples I have that were uniform material.

Sorry, its actually a Gulistan carpet - Elegant Comfort - Wine Color. Not Mohawk. Had Mohawk on the brain from other samples.

OK, more screenshots of the screen samples

Left: Carada Classic Cinema White
Middle: Stewart Studiotek 130
Right: Carada Brilliant White
Bottom: Elite Matte White

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m8/drostowsky/sample-white.jpg

Impressions: The Stewart was pretty easily the whitest of the bunch. Although the Brilliant White Carada wasnt far behind. Interesting with the Stewart is I can see the sparkly things gleaming as I move my head around. I imagine if Im sitting back 11' I probably wouldnt be able to tell, but from 3-4' its pretty noticeable. Not sure if that would bug me or not over time.

Heres a closeup side by side of the whitest of the whites.

Left: Stewart Studiotek 130
Right: Carada Brilliant White

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m8/drostowsky/screen.jpg

The Stewart Firehawk was just plain weird as my first impression. The coloring completely changes as you move around. If someone didnt tell me if was an expensive screen Id be inclined to call it crap. Here's an example. Im standing maybe at a 30-45 degree angle.

Left: Stewart Firehawk
Right: Carada Classic Cinema White
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m8/drostowsky/firehawk.jpg

The straight on was better, but still grey. Dont have a screenshot of that, but it was definitely an unimpressive grey. The angle thing really killed this screen for me.

OK, here's where the Firehawk excelled. Black is black. Its a little darker in reality. Camera didnt catch the best shot of this, but its easy to see its definitely darker than the Carada.
Left: Stewart Firehawk
Right: Carada Classic Cinema White
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m8/drostowsky/black.jpg

I know how important deep dark blacks are to many :cool: people, but I also know how much a sharp, well-defined picture :D with overall color balance :p means, too. I'd personally be inclined to adjust to the sparkly granules after a while (but that's just me.) Is viewing from three-to-four feet a realistic option for your family? Seems a bit close for me, but then my wife loves to sit unrealistically close :rolleyes: at the local cinemas.

As you have noticed, the Firehawk has a very narrow viewing cone. This is one reason why this screen is excellent at rejecting ambient light, but its use is not optimum if you have a seating arrangement that forces you outside of the cone. I know it's hard to tell from a photo, but the whites on the Firehawk actually don't look that bad in the shot taken from on axis, especially when compared to the deepness of the blacks. It would be interesting to compare some dark movie scenes on these screens.

We can also clearly see what people have been talking about regarding the true gain of the CaradaBW. It is dimmer than the 1.3 gain ST130, so I would estimate the BWs true gain at somewhere inbetween 1.0 - 1.2. This also supports the notion that some of these other screens (Elite Matte White, Carada Classic White) have a gain of well below 1, and I would be afraid that these screens would become too dim as the bulb ages.

It would be interesting to see some more comparisons of the ST130 and BW -- some darker material, some close-ups of text, an assortment of light and dark movie scenes. One thing I'm curious about is whether or not there is any blurring on the BW -- are lines as crisp and clean as on the ST?

Is viewing from three-to-four feet a realistic option for your family? Seems a bit close for me, but then my wife loves to sit unrealistically close at the local cinemas.
HA, lol. Im blind as a bat, but not that blind. I love to sit super close as well in the cinemas. At home, we'll be 11' back from the screen. Thats plenty close for me. :)

The sparkly things are kind of interesting. Probably little pieces of glass or something like that to boost the gain? The Stewarts are way out of my sanity price range. Even if the Studiotek is super bright. Its more for my comparison to the "low end" models.

As you have noticed, the Firehawk has a very narrow viewing cone.
Wow, you can say that again. I kept seeing this spec on all the screens, but none of other samples had any noticeable change. This one was really extreme. Just standing in one spot and moving my head I could make the screen change.

I know it's hard to tell from a photo, but the whites on the Firehawk actually don't look that bad in the shot taken from on axis, especially when compared to the deepness of the blacks. It would be interesting to compare some dark movie scenes on these screens.

Ill see what I can whip up there for comparing movies. Ill try to get decent white test for the Firehawk on axis as well. Its kind of fun messing around with this (while I impatiently wait for the drywall to be finished).

It would be interesting to see some more comparisons of the ST130 and BW -- some darker material, some close-ups of text, an assortment of light and dark movie scenes. One thing I'm curious about is whether or not there is any blurring on the BW -- are lines as crisp and clean as on the ST?
Boy, youre a task master arent you? Im going to start charging you by the hour! :) lol. I had some darks with the BW and ST130, but the camera distorted it too much to post. As with the BW, the ST130 washed out blacks to greys, even more than the BW. I do want to try that again. The ST130 was definitely my favorite option for text I think just because it was so bright.

In general, I still think the Carada Cinema White gives me the best middle road. Ill get some movie screenshots going this week. Ive got plenty of time before making any screen decision so I can analyze this for a good long time.

Boy, youre a task master arent you? Im going to start charging you by the hour! :) lol.

:D :D :D

Seriously though, if these tests aren't helpful for you too, I certainly wouldn't want you to do them just for my benefit. :D


As with the BW, the ST130 washed out blacks to greys, even more than the BW.

Since I believe the BW has a true gain of 1 or slightly above, I think what you are seeing with this screen is very close to the true output of your projector. In other words, the BW screen probably isn't the thing that's washing out the grays -- it's the D5 LCD panels in that projector, which cannot produce black. From your perspective, it's probably a trivial point. But this is one reason why the darker screen materials are looking so nice with your projector, since they help compensate for the gray-blacks. Just as an academic aside, if you had a CRT projector or digital with lower black levels (like the new Sony Pearl coming out in a few months, or one of the new LCD projectors with the new D6 panels) I think the advantages of the BW and the ST130 would be more obvious.

The Carada CW in particular seems to do a nice job with your projector, at least while the bulb is new, since your pj has plenty of brightness to deal with the decrease in ft-lamberts and the result is more satisfying blacks. One reason I was interested in more on-axis Firehawk pictures is because this is a positive gain gray screen, so I was curious if you could get excellent blacks and serviceable whites.