Hello:

My 5000 arrived today. I am hoping to get a chance to set everything up this week (out of town next week).

Splotto

The projector must be taken apart to install the iris, but what about the colour filter? Can't a colour filter be applied externally like with most colour calibrations?

Also, it would be nice to see the HC5000 "Ultra" and it's black level and contrast compared to a colour calibrated Epson 1000, Panasonic AE1000, Pearl and RS1. Context! :cool:


Actually, we are doing a little shooutout this month in France with some "neutral" home cinema enthusiasts. Exactly with the models you mentioned above...

We might do a shootout in Germany too ;) This is very important to us as we want to make it possible that most people can see the benefits of this mod for themselves.

Fortunately, support from different dealers starts here in Germany, so we are confident it might get widely available at least here.


Regards,
Ekkehart

The benefits of this kind of mod are so large it can make you feel your missing out on a huge performance improvement if you don't do it.

Gary

The nail has been well and truly hit on the head there. Oh What to do!!

Actually, we are doing a little shooutout this month in France with some "neutral" home cinema enthusiasts. Exactly with the models you mentioned above...

We might do a shootout in Germany too ;) This is very important to us as we want to make it possible that most people can see the benefits of this mod for themselves.

Fortunately, support from different dealers starts here in Germany, so we are confident it might get widely available at least here.


Regards,
Ekkehart

That sounds great.

So, I'm curious, what is it about the Epson 1000 that makes it in-capable of being modded in a similar way? Surely the Epson could be further colour calibrated, could it not? (I imagine the theatre black mode is a sort of colour calibration of sorts. Perhaps the internal filter could be further improved or supplemented with colour calibration?).

Regarding the addition of the iris to the projector. Is there too much difficulty with the installing of a custom iris in the Epson?

:)

Hello:

I played around with the HC5000 last night and I was VERY impressed with the picture.

My screen has not arrived yet so I was projecting onto a beige textured wall in my home but the picture was still incredible.

I am looking forward to getting the HT room set up.

That sounds great.

So, I'm curious, what is it about the Epson 1000 that makes it in-capable of being modded in a similar way? Surely the Epson could be further colour calibrated, could it not? (I imagine the theatre black mode is a sort of colour calibration of sorts. Perhaps the internal filter could be further improved or supplemented with colour calibration?).

Regarding the addition of the iris to the projector. Is there too much difficulty with the installing of a custom iris in the Epson?

:)

Because the Epson is already optimised?? and the Mitsu mod only works because its design hasnt been optimised???

That sounds great.

So, I'm curious, what is it about the Epson 1000 that makes it in-capable of being modded in a similar way? Surely the Epson could be further colour calibrated, could it not? (I imagine the theatre black mode is a sort of colour calibration of sorts. Perhaps the internal filter could be further improved or supplemented with colour calibration?).

Regarding the addition of the iris to the projector. Is there too much difficulty with the installing of a custom iris in the Epson?

:)


Well, I guess if you add a lens iris to the TW1000 it will really get to dim.. It is not the brghtest projector anyway already..

Regards,
Ekkehart

Hello guys,

We checked today, the contrast stays the same no matter what Zoom ratio you use (deviation is <5%).

Regards,
Ekkehart

Would this pj be an upgrade to my sharp 10k?

I’ve had a HC5000 for about three months with close to 100 hours of use on it. This is my first projector and I still can’t get over how good of a picture it produces. I have just started to notice that it is making a ticking noise while it is on. It reminds me of the sound you would hear coming from a computer when its over worked or a fan hitting something while it’s spinning. I just want to confirm with other HC5000 owners that they don’t hear this noise before I send it in for repair. I sit right below it and I don’t remember ever hearing anything like this. I recall a very low fan noise but this noise I can hear across the room about 11 feet away when the speakers are off and the projector is running. Also I have noticed that when I shut the projector off I get a red power light and a flashing green status light. The instructions say this is an abnormal condition or the protection circuit is working. Is this what everyone else gets when the shut the projector off or is this part of my problem? Thanks for any help or any information anyone can give.

I have just started to notice that it is making a ticking noise while it is on. It reminds me of the sound you would hear coming from a computer when its over worked or a fan hitting something while it’s spinning.If it sounds a little like rattling or the noise a hard disc makes and is audible only when overall brightness of the picture changes, then it's the noise the auto iris makes and is completely normal.

I’ve had a HC5000 for about three months with close to 100 hours of use on it. This is my first projector and I still can’t get over how good of a picture it produces. I have just started to notice that it is making a ticking noise while it is on. It reminds me of the sound you would hear coming from a computer when its over worked or a fan hitting something while it’s spinning. I just want to confirm with other HC5000 owners that they don’t hear this noise before I send it in for repair. I sit right below it and I don’t remember ever hearing anything like this. I recall a very low fan noise but this noise I can hear across the room about 11 feet away when the speakers are off and the projector is running. Also I have noticed that when I shut the projector off I get a red power light and a flashing green status light. The instructions say this is an abnormal condition or the protection circuit is working. Is this what everyone else gets when the shut the projector off or is this part of my problem? Thanks for any help or any information anyone can give.
I don't get any rattling or ticking noise from the cooling fan and i have stood with my ear just afew inches from the air intake, all i hear is a relatively low sound of rushing air. In my normal viewing position about 4 feet directly below the projector I cannot hear it. when I turn the projector off the fan speed increases and it is clearly audible from 8 feet away. During the cooling period of appx. 2 mins. a green light flashes. When the cooling period is ended the green light goes off just leaving a red power light.
I suggest you contact Mitsubishi Service and discuss your problem with them.

I don't get any rattling or ticking noise from the cooling fan and i have stood with my ear just afew inches from the air intake, all i hear is a relatively low sound of rushing air. In my normal viewing position about 4 feet directly below the projector I cannot hear it. when I turn the projector off the fan speed increases and it is clearly audible from 8 feet away. During the cooling period of appx. 2 mins. a green light flashes. When the cooling period is ended the green light goes off just leaving a red power light.
I suggest you contact Mitsubishi Service and discuss your problem with them.

So what you're saying is that when you turn off your Mits HC5000 the red light comes on and the green is flashing and when the cool down period ends the green flashing light goes off but the red light remains on?

figured it out :D

So what you're saying is that when you turn off your Mits HC5000 the red light comes on and the green is flashing and when the cool down period ends the green flashing light goes off but the red light remains on?
When I turn the projector off by pressing the 'off' button twice on the remote, the power indicator light turns from green to red. The status indicator light flashes green. At the end of the cooling period the status light goes out and the power
indicator stays red until I turn the power off at the wall socket. sorry if I didn't make myself clear in my previous post

If it sounds a little like rattling or the noise a hard disc makes and is audible only when overall brightness of the picture changes, then it's the noise the auto iris makes and is completely normal.

That is exactly what I am hearing. The only difference is I hear the rattling from the time I turn the projector on until the time I turn it off. If this noise is the iris I should be able to turn it off in the menu options. I will try this tonight to see if the noise goes away when the iris is off. Either way if the noise goes away or not with the iris off, it looks like I have a problem. Thanks for all the help. It sounds like the red and green lights are normal during power down. Thanks jacko05 for the reply. If any else has any more tips I’m open for suggestions.

When I turn the projector off by pressing the 'off' button twice on the remote, the power indicator light turns from green to red. The status indicator light flashes green. At the end of the cooling period the status light goes out and the power
indicator stays red until I turn the power off at the wall socket. sorry if I didn't make myself clear in my previous post


Thanks, that's what I thought. :D My Mitsubishi HC3000U behaves in the same manner when shutting down. I don't think there's anything wrong with your Mits.

If it sounds a little like rattling or the noise a hard disc makes and is audible only when overall brightness of the picture changes, then it's the noise the auto iris makes and is completely normal.

I tried setting the iris to open and I still had the noise. I was able to listen and hear the iris when it was working. The noise I am hearing is about three or four times louder then the iris when it’s working and the noise I’m hearing is heard all the time. From everyone’s reply it sounds like no one else has this noise. I will be contacting Mit. or AVS this weekend to see about sending it in for repair. Has anyone heard any reports of a HC5000 making this kind of noise before? Thanks for all the help.

I tried setting the iris to open and I still had the noise.Ok, then it's something else and NOT normal.

I tried setting the iris to open and I still had the noise. I was able to listen and hear the iris when it was working. The noise I am hearing is about three or four times louder then the iris when it’s working and the noise I’m hearing is heard all the time. From everyone’s reply it sounds like no one else has this noise. I will be contacting Mit. or AVS this weekend to see about sending it in for repair. Has anyone heard any reports of a HC5000 making this kind of noise before? Thanks for all the help.
Good luck with getting your HC5000 fixed. It's probably something quite minor, please let us know how you get on and what the problem turns out to be.
We HC5000 owners will be very interested to know and this is how we forum members build up a good knowledge base on various products, which can be very helpful to existing and future owners.

I just noticed today that ********** have stopped taking any further orders for the HC5000. No reason given. Nor when they will be resuming sales.

Nick ???

I just noticed today that ********** have stopped taking any further orders for the HC5000. No reason given. Nor when they will be resuming sales.

Nick ???

Hi,

Not only HC5000, but also HC3100. But we can buy it from somewhere else.

I just noticed today that ********** have stopped taking any further orders for the HC5000. No reason given. Nor when they will be resuming sales.

Nick ???
Does that mean you have missed out? Have you tried HIVIZONE HK. They advertise at a similar price and I have read good reports of them.

I just noticed today that ********** have stopped taking any further orders for the HC5000. No reason given. Nor when they will be resuming sales.

Nick ???

(wishful thinking) Maybe mitsu are rereleasing it as the 5100 with the cine4home tweak (wishful thinking)

(wishful thinking) Maybe mitsu are rereleasing it as the 5100 with the cine4home tweak (wishful thinking)
Unfortunately, Ekkehart of Cine4Home says this is not the case. He thinks it is to do with new firmware and better anti-dust ventilation system.

if that's the case is this an admission that some with dust blobs should get a full service and better still everyone else should get the benefit of this too?

if that's the case is this an admission that some with dust blobs should get a full service and better still everyone else should get the benefit of this too?
I don't know the answer to that one, but I think I am developing a few dust blobs on mine. They have not been visible when watching normal images,but when I have a dark screen, during titles for example, Ican see a few tennis ball sized blobs. I have'nt completed 200 hours yet and I have cleaned the filter twice. I hope it does'nt develop into a serious problem otherwise I will have to go back to DLP. How are LCOS projectors affected, are they prone to dust blobs?

Mine has two dust blobs - i'm debating on whether or not to send it in or wait awhile...


They are only noticeable when the color black is displayed in the area they are located (any other color) and I cannot see them...


I'd like to have someone do this mod in the states for me and clean the projector while they are doing the mod aka kill two birds with one stone but alas I don't really even know where to begin on getting someone to translate cine4home tweak and have the knowledge to do it... :(


The black levels are the only thing I need fixed to make me want to not upgrade in a long long time....

Unfortunately, Ekkehart of Cine4Home says this is not the case. He thinks it is to do with new firmware and better anti-dust ventilation system.

Hi,

Not only HC5000 but also HC3100 are out of stock in Japan. Thus, it may be just a problem of short supply of Mitsubishi projectors.

I purchased my 1st HC-5000 in January. It developed a dust blob after 25 hours and was replaced by the factory on a DOA basis. The second HC-5000 developed a dust blob after 100 hours. It was sent to the factory repair center in Irvine, Calif. cleaned and returned within 72 hours. At this point I communicated with Mits tech support on wheather an additional external filter made of furnance floor vent material taped over the original filter would be acceptable. I also added external filter material over the intake vent on the front right of the projector(faceing the lens towards you with the projector inverted, and on the back panel over the intake slots by the connectors. They also told me to place black tape over the small slots at the bottom rear (at the top when inverted). I thought this was a good idea as a layer of dust eventually collects on the top of the projector (the bottom when inverted). The additional filter material is a high density spun glass type of material that can be cut into small pieces and taped over the intake vents. I is readily available at the hardware store in 4x12" pieces. It comes in about 6 pieces to the package. All of this was approved by the Mits service center. I was afraid the projector might overheat but this has not been the case. I also cover the entire projector with a nylon cover when not in use. It covers the outlet vents just in case along with the lens. I have 200 hours on the projector now with no dust blobs. So far so good.

David

Correction:

The front intake vent is on the left side of the projector with the lens faceing towards you and inverted. Sorry. dont cover the outlet vent by mistake which is on the right side with the projector inverted.

David

I purchased my 1st HC-5000 in January. It developed a dust blob after 25 hours and was replaced by the factory on a DOA basis. The second HC-5000 developed a dust blob after 100 hours. It was sent to the factory repair center in Irvine, Calif. cleaned and returned within 72 hours. At this point I communicated with Mits tech support on wheather an additional external filter made of furnance floor vent material taped over the original filter would be acceptable. I also added external filter material over the intake vent on the front right of the projector(faceing the lens towards you with the projector inverted, and on the back panel over the intake slots by the connectors. They also told me to place black tape over the small slots at the bottom rear (at the top when inverted). I thought this was a good idea as a layer of dust eventually collects on the top of the projector (the bottom when inverted). The additional filter material is a high density spun glass type of material that can be cut into small pieces and taped over the intake vents. I is readily available at the hardware store in 4x12" pieces. It comes in about 6 pieces to the package. All of this was approved by the Mits service center. I was afraid the projector might overheat but this has not been the case. I also cover the entire projector with a nylon cover when not in use. It covers the outlet vents just in case along with the lens. I have 200 hours on the projector now with no dust blobs. So far so good.

David
I was looking at the mitsubishi hc5000, actually recommended by my calibrater saying there good.now this issue with the dust blobs,is everyone experencing it? If thats the case I don't want to be sending mine in all the time.I thought the lcd were meant to have a dust cover on them.Apart from the dust blobs, whats everyone experience in the way the machine works.Are the black levels are good as what they say on paper?

I had dust blobs in my first one and it is sloppy manufacturing.

The second one was handpicked so I don't have any yet, but its a matter of time judging by others.

As long as it stays away long enough I don't mind it being cleaned once in a while but not after 25 hours as some are reporting.

It's still a top machine matey.

...as I mentionned in a previous post in this thread...

Try removing the air filter on the side, aim the nozzle of a can of $5 compressed air towards the lens through the little grill hole. (I inserted the nozzle about a 1/2 inch and angled it 45 degrees towards the lens on the left part of the grill) It worked for me when a couple of green looking blobs appeared after 50 hours. A 100 hours later and blobls have yet to reappear...

The conclusion I reached was that either the LCD's aren't sealed or the blobs are from something else. Either way try the compressed air route before shipping it back, it certainly saved me a headache or two.

good luck, and don't wig out ! it might be a very simple solution...

p.s. I'm also thinking a vacuum hose might work in conjunction with the compressed air...

...as I mentionned in a previous post in this thread...

Try removing the air filter on the side, aim the nozzle of a can of $5 compressed air towards the lens through the little grill hole. (I inserted the nozzle about a 1/2 inch and angled it 45 degrees towards the lens on the left part of the grill) It worked for me when a couple of green looking blobs appeared after 50 hours. A 100 hours later and blobls have yet to reappear...

The conclusion I reached was that either the LCD's aren't sealed or the blobs are from something else. Either way try the compressed air route before shipping it back, it certainly saved me a headache or two.

good luck, and don't wig out ! it might be a very simple solution...


Thanks for the tip, I'll give it a try.

I was looking at the mitsubishi hc5000, actually recommended by my calibrater saying there good.now this issue with the dust blobs,is everyone experencing it? If thats the case I don't want to be sending mine in all the time.I thought the lcd were meant to have a dust cover on them.Apart from the dust blobs, whats everyone experience in the way the machine works.Are the black levels are good as what they say on paper?

Don't be put off by the dust blobs, it's an excellent projector. Even though I have 5 blobs they don't show when viewing mixed coloured images. They are only visible so far when there is a blank dark grey screen as used on some film credits. I have a room with white walls and ceiling, but virtually no ambient light and the image contrast is very good. Black levels are generally very good too except when you have a scene with 50/50 light and dark parts, eg. people wearing black suits in front of a large bright window, then the black suits become more charcoal grey.
This is typical of projectors which use a dynamic iris, I understand.
The image sharpness on good HD material is incredible and the colours are well saturated and punchy. At the price this has to be an excellent choice.

Hello:

Well, after ordering all my equipment, and worst of all, having to go out of town for a week (is there anything worse then knowing everything is sitting in your house waiting to be set-up and enjoyed but not being there?) I finally set-up my 5000 yesterday.

The picture on the screen is great! I am very impressed with it.

I still have some tweaks to do on the image shape and size but overall it's great.

Splotto

What I end up doing is get a filter identical as the HC5000, and tape the filter on the outside of the projector, the air filter is the projector is NOT very GOOD, it is very thin, i got one that is 3 times tick and just tape it to the area were the air is sucked in, this is to prevent dust to even get to the original filter, you know every time we open that door there is a chance to get dust in there, so this way I ONLY remove the external filter ,clean it with some air and reaply the tape, don't wory about the temperature increase, I run the projector for about the duration of 3 movies and the inside teperature stayed the same like with the original filter.just my 2 cent.






...as I mentionned in a previous post in this thread...

Try removing the air filter on the side, aim the nozzle of a can of $5 compressed air towards the lens through the little grill hole. (I inserted the nozzle about a 1/2 inch and angled it 45 degrees towards the lens on the left part of the grill) It worked for me when a couple of green looking blobs appeared after 50 hours. A 100 hours later and blobls have yet to reappear...

The conclusion I reached was that either the LCD's aren't sealed or the blobs are from something else. Either way try the compressed air route before shipping it back, it certainly saved me a headache or two.

good luck, and don't wig out ! it might be a very simple solution...

I have the same problem with my HC5000. Let us know if you are successfull in eliminating the "hot spot" and the method used.


Had it replaced for a new one under warranty. New one does not have this problem (so far). :)

I've searched within the thread, but didn't see a real conclusions for those that may have owned both...did see some speculation or those that have seen both, but not lived with them.

Here's my situation. I've owned the Panny 900 and was happy with it, with the exception of sharpness and black levels. I took the DLP leap to the Mits 3000....Mits rocked in black level and sharpness vs the Panny 900 LCD. Here's my problem

I've got the upgrade bug, but in my heart know I should wait until at least the fall or maybe next spring for great prices on current units or next years innovations/improvements...esp since I am content with the Mits overall.

Recently on a whim I bought a Sharp 12000 from the club store's deal of a couple of grand and was really underwhelmed by the black level and pop of the image...seemed rather dull vs the Mits 3000. Though I did notice that in shadow or low light scenes, the Sharp looked very good...better than than the mits in resolving detail.

Getting to my point....my concern with the Mits 5000 is black level and "pop" of the image vs the DLP Mits 3000. Since I've gone DLP, I don't think I want to go LCD again. I can get a slightly used Mits 5000 for good deal....but without the ability to demo the proj...I don't know that I will be happy vs my Mits 3000 DLP. My brain says wait until the DLP 1080P units hit a price point that I want to buy into the new market.

What are others thoughts or comparisons on this issue?

rboster,
I am not in your exact position but currently have a 480p DLP and have been looking at current 1080p and 720p offerings. I have looked at several LCD models and am also torn. I really like the image of my DLP and even though LCD is getting better am having trouble moving in that direction. The Epson Pro 1080 was nice and sets the bar for LCD 1080p at its price point. I have also thought about the Mits 5000 but it is on the edge for throw distance in my room and I would really like more lumens even at its currently reduced price.

I am going to see the JVC LCOS RS1 when I get the chance as reviews seem pretty positive. If it is as good as advertised I may wait until the competition (DLP) ponies up in the next round. At the moment LCD and LCOS are making a statement and I think DLP will have to step up to the plate. This camp islong overdue for a homerun in the sub $5K price range.

JD

I've searched within the thread, but didn't see a real conclusions for those that may have owned both...did see some speculation or those that have seen both, but not lived with them.

Here's my situation. I've owned the Panny 900 and was happy with it, with the exception of sharpness and black levels. I took the DLP leap to the Mits 3000....Mits rocked in black level and sharpness vs the Panny 900 LCD. Here's my problem

I've got the upgrade bug, but in my heart know I should wait until at least the fall or maybe next spring for great prices on current units or next years innovations/improvements...esp since I am content with the Mits overall.

Recently on a whim I bought a Sharp 12000 from the club store's deal of a couple of grand and was really underwhelmed by the black level and pop of the image...seemed rather dull vs the Mits 3000. Though I did notice that in shadow or low light scenes, the Sharp looked very good...better than than the mits in resolving detail.

Getting to my point....my concern with the Mits 5000 is black level and "pop" of the image vs the DLP Mits 3000. Since I've gone DLP, I don't think I want to go LCD again. I can get a slightly used Mits 5000 for good deal....but without the ability to demo the proj...I don't know that I will be happy vs my Mits 3000 DLP. My brain says wait until the DLP 1080P units hit a price point that I want to buy into the new market.

What are others thoughts or comparisons on this issue?


Well, I also own a Mits HC3000 and I love this projector... but, alas, upgraditis is also vexing me. I don't have problems with rainbows and I love the contrast the Mits has so I tend to favor the DLP projectors, but having said that, I'm dismayed they cost so much more than the current crop of 1080 LCD and LCOS projectors (excluding the JVC RS-1). I'm not so sure I'd be happy with a dynamic iris projector as they tend to lose some contrast in scenes where there is light and dark images on the same scene. I'm hoping the price of the JVC will drop by the time September comes around when a new crop of 1080 projectors are available.

Well, I also own a Mits HC3000 and I love this projector... but, alas, upgraditis is also vexing me. I don't have problems with rainbows and I love the contrast the Mits has so I tend to favor the DLP projectors, but having said that, I'm dismayed they cost so much more than the current crop of 1080 LCD and LCOS projectors (excluding the JVC RS-1). I'm not so sure I'd be happy with a dynamic iris projector as they tend to lose some contrast in scenes where there is light and dark images on the same scene. I'm hoping the price of the JVC will drop by the time September comes around when a new crop of 1080 projectors are available.

I have the Mits HC5000 and I think you should hang on. I think you would be disappointed with the drop in contrast in scenes of mixed light and dark.
I also suffer with dust blobs in common with many other owners. If I was buying at the moment it would probably be the RS1/HD1, but I would need to see it first to make sure I was happy with the sharpness as I have seen mixed opinions about this.

jack05 and others,

did you try to blow out the 'dust' from the side air intake as instructed by a poster on a previous page?

this may just clear some/most/all blob problems...

(the HC5000 is amazing...)

troy

I have the Mits HC5000 and I think you should hang on. I think you would be disappointed with the drop in contrast in scenes of mixed light and dark.
I also suffer with dust blobs in common with many other owners. If I was buying at the moment it would probably be the RS1/HD1, but I would need to see it first to make sure I was happy with the sharpness as I have seen mixed opinions about this.


Thanks for the advice. I was afraid that "...drop in contrast in scenes of mixed light and dark" would be a deal killer. My current thought is to get the RS-1 when projector prices drop after this year's CEDIA and the latest "hot" projectors come on the market.

jack05 and others,

did you try to blow out the 'dust' from the side air intake as instructed by a poster on a previous page?

this may just clear some/most/all blob problems...

(the HC5000 is amazing...)

troy
Yes I tried to remove dust blobs by applying a powerful vacuum cleaner to the outlets and I also removed the filter and blew compressed air through the grill holes. The dust blobs didn't move at all for me.
I will just have to live with the problem for now. I understand dust blobs are excluded from the warranty and it would be too much cost and hassle to send it back to the service centre and who is to say that they would not reoccur after a few hours. It seems to be a design problem and might only be solved by an engineering solution.

ok. just wanted to throw out the idea in case you overlooked it.

this 'could' be why they are sold out in the entire country of japan. either discontinued or a design change???

Yes I tried to remove dust blobs by applying a powerful vacuum cleaner to the outlets and I also removed the filter and blew compressed air through the grill holes. The dust blobs didn't move at all for me.
I will just have to live with the problem for now. I understand dust blobs are excluded from the warranty and it would be too much cost and hassle to send it back to the service centre and who is to say that they would not reoccur after a few hours. It seems to be a design problem and might only be solved by an engineering solution.

Anyone have a problem with their Bulb Hour counter? I got my HC5000 in late December and have used it alot but not 1105 hours worth, which is what my counter is currently showing. Anyone know of any bug with the lamp counter? Thanks

I just got mine installed on Friday and probably put 25 hours on it over the weekend. For some reason the counter shows 70 H, so yes I have the same issue.

Also can anybody post a bit more detailed post on how to blow out the dust issue from inside the projector. I have two little circular spots on my screen that appear green on the screen. They are only visible on a totally black background, but I would like to solve this issue. I am also interested in exactly what filter material guys are putting on the outside of the projector to prevent reoccurance. The material must not reduce airflow almost at all so that the same basic CFM passes through the projector or else bulb life will suffer.

Anyone have a problem with their Bulb Hour counter? I got my HC5000 in late December and have used it alot but not 1105 hours worth, which is what my counter is currently showing. Anyone know of any bug with the lamp counter? Thanks


you are using your lamp at high mode therefore the lamp life is multiplied by 2.5 because the lamp counter is only on low lamp mode (max 5000 hrs)

you are using your lamp at high mode therefore the lamp life is multiplied by 2.5 because the lamp counter is only on low lamp mode (max 5000 hrs)

that's right. with the lamp mode set to low, the counter will behave as you expect it to.

you are using your lamp at high mode therefore the lamp life is multiplied by 2.5 because the lamp counter is only on low lamp mode (max 5000 hrs)

Thanks guys as that is exactly about how much I actually used it. I may try the unit on low lamp mode as it is plenty bright in my room right now.

Does anybody have an update for how to clear out the dust issue (green spots on a totally black background)? It is not noticable during normal viewing. I called Mitsubishi today and they said it needs to be professionally cleaned, but others seem to have posted that they had this done and the problem still came back. I am certainly not interested in sending my unit out and being without it for almost 2 weeks for a termporary fix.

Yes I tried to remove dust blobs by applying a powerful vacuum cleaner to the outlets and I also removed the filter and blew compressed air through the grill holes. The dust blobs didn't move at all for me.
I will just have to live with the problem for now. I understand dust blobs are excluded from the warranty and it would be too much cost and hassle to send it back to the service centre and who is to say that they would not reoccur after a few hours. It seems to be a design problem and might only be solved by an engineering solution.

Do you know any of this for a fact or just guessing? Mitsubishi today told me my cleaning would be free of charge, with the exception that I had to pay the shipping to them and they pay the return. Have others already had this done and the problem came back?

What I am asking is it a waste of time to send back the unit to Mitsubishi for cleaning, and has anybody heard of any plans by Mitsubishi to release a better filter?

According to projector tuning de:

Mitsubishi press release of 17.4.2007

In the course of the continuous product advancement for the HC5000 a new firmware update was developed. This Software upgrade contains a “Dust Protection system” - a self cleaning function, which heads for the exhausts while the raising of the projector intelligently and for some seconds by intensified speed of dust particle far away from the LCD panel. Thus a perfect projection and an unrestricted cinema benefit are certain!

Do you know any of this for a fact or just guessing? Mitsubishi today told me my cleaning would be free of charge, with the exception that I had to pay the shipping to them and they pay the return. Have others already had this done and the problem came back?

What I am asking is it a waste of time to send back the unit to Mitsubishi for cleaning, and has anybody heard of any plans by Mitsubishi to release a better filter?
I have'nt contacted Mitsubishi Service Centre, I am guessing they would not bear the cost for a non-warranty problem. Not in the UK at least.
I first noticed 5 dust blobs 2 weeks ago and last night I counted 7, so what is the point of going to all the trouble to send it back if the dust blobs are going to occur that rapidly.

According to projector tuning de:

Mitsubishi press release of 17.4.2007

In the course of the continuous product advancement for the HC5000 a new firmware update was developed. This Software upgrade contains a “Dust Protection system” - a self cleaning function, which heads for the exhausts while the raising of the projector intelligently and for some seconds by intensified speed of dust particle far away from the LCD panel. Thus a perfect projection and an unrestricted cinema benefit are certain!
That sounds more like it! Let's hope this is the answer to the problem.
It now may be worth sending the PJ in for cleaning and having the firmware update installed.

Problem is that I am calling Mitsubishi and can not get anyone to talk intelligently to me about this issue. They will only say I need to send in for cleaning, but the last guy I talked to claimed it could not happen again, but then said that it must have happened in shipping. Doesn't make much sense since I will need to ship the cleaned unit across the country and back again. He is full of crap.

Problem is that I am calling Mitsubishi and can not get anyone to talk intelligently to me about this issue. They will only say I need to send in for cleaning, but the last guy I talked to claimed it could not happen again, but then said that it must have happened in shipping. Doesn't make much sense since I will need to ship the cleaned unit across the country and back again. He is full of crap.
I have spoken to Mitsubishi UK and they have not heard of any firmware update to overcome dust problems. He did offer to have my unit collected for cleaning and inspection, but I told the guy that I did not see the point of this unless there was some remedy to the problem. He is going to make further enquiries about it and ring me back. I'll keep you posted.

I have spoken to Mitsubishi UK and they have not heard of any firmware update to overcome dust problems. He did offer to have my unit collected for cleaning and inspection, but I told the guy that I did not see the point of this unless there was some remedy to the problem. He is going to make further enquiries about it and ring me back. I'll keep you posted.

Thanks Jacko05. Great minds think alike. I am not willing to be without this unit for 2 weeks just to have a temporary solution put in place. There is always a risk of something else going wrong once somebody opens up the unit and starts disassembling it. I have been trying to get in touch with somebody in the U.S. at Mitsubishi who will discuss the issue with some amount of intelligence instead of just given me an answer that makes no sense.

I have spoken to Mitsubishi UK and they have not heard of any firmware update to overcome dust problems. He did offer to have my unit collected for cleaning and inspection, but I told the guy that I did not see the point of this unless there was some remedy to the problem. He is going to make further enquiries about it and ring me back. I'll keep you posted.

I have spoken to Mitsubishi FR, and they told me firmware 4.0 has a new fan programming designed to overcome dust problems.

I have spoken to Mitsubishi FR, and they told me firmware 4.0 has a new fan programming designed to overcome dust problems.

please, others check their sources to see if there is indeed a firmware revision 4.0 for the HC5000.

troy

Are firmware upgrades for the HC5000 only done back at the repair centers or is there a download application?

I have spoken to Mitsubishi UK and they have not heard of any firmware update to overcome dust problems. He did offer to have my unit collected for cleaning and inspection, but I told the guy that I did not see the point of this unless there was some remedy to the problem. He is going to make further enquiries about it and ring me back. I'll keep you posted.
I have not had a call back from Mitsubishi UK yet. In the meantime I have sent an e-mail to Mitsubishi Europe to see if they can confirm whether a firmware revision has been issued or not.
On the projektortuning.de website they refer to a Press release being issued by Mitsubishi stating that there is a firmware revision which increases the fan speed for short bursts to eliminate the dust problem on the LCD panels. It is in German so this is the gist of the statement not a literal translation.

I bought the Japan version of HC5000 last week. I checked the firmware version and it is indeed 4.0.

I bought the Japan version of HC5000 last week. I checked the firmware version and it is indeed 4.0.Is there a new item in the menus for dust removal process?

How do you check the firmware version?

How do you check the firmware version?

In the menu, pick Feature -> Menu position. Then press 'Auto Position', 'Enter', 'Auto Position' on your remote control.
You are now in the service menu which will show SW version.

Is there a new item in the menus for dust removal process?

No, no new item.

In the menu, pick Feature -> Menu position. Then press 'Auto Position', 'Enter', 'Auto Position' on your remote control.
You are now in the service menu which will show SW version.

Thanks for the information!

Has anybody gotten to a contact in Mitsubishi who actually knows anything about this problem/projector? I can not get by the standard send it in and all will be fine line. No one will talk about firmware updates or anything. This has not been a good experience dealing with their CS department so far. Knowing what I know now, I would not recommend this projector solely on the poor customer service I have received. I did not even mention the hours on hold on the phone just to get to anybody.

I bought the Japan version of HC5000 last week. I checked the firmware version and it is indeed 4.0.
Keep an eye open for dust blobs and keep us posted as to whether this version 4 update has cured the dust problem.
I find that the best test is to select the black background and feed no signal to the PJ. Dust blobs will show as light grey circles about tennis ball sized on a 92" diagonal screen. Good luck!

hi

two days ago my hc5000 did not display anything when i switched it on. when i switched it off and, after a few hours, on again, everything was fine for two days. today it is black again and nothing seems to bring back an image.

i tried switching off and on again, switching off - unplug power - wait - replug power - switch on again; changeing image source (dvi, analog vga and fbas) -> all no joy.

i see the lamp is on, the auto iris is working (brightness of the black screen varies when i change the laptop screencontent from mostly black to mostly white). i see no menus, no grid when adjusting lens shift (which works btw.)

is my hc5000 toast, or could it be just some setting? is there a way to reset to factory settings (blindly)?

From HT Mag's recent review of the Mits HC5000:

"Setup is made difficult by a control labeled, ironically, Setup. Out of the box, the HC5000 badly crushes blacks. You will need to find the Setup control in the menu and turn it off...."


Has anyone done this and seen an improvement in picture quality? I can't see any difference (so far). I can clearly see a difference when selecting one of the other options (3.5%, 7.5%). The picture gets much darker.

Thanks,
Mark

Hi to all,
I use my HC5000 with my Crystalio 2 Video processor.
The custom res.@48Hz of my C2 doesn't work fine with the PJ!

So I'm here to ask you some good 1080p@48Hz timings to create a resolution@48Hz that surely works with my mitsu Pj.

Thank u so much,
Acta.

Has anyone gotten help from Mitsubishi Tech with the dust problem? I have a unit that is firmware v3 and am wondering if it is worth it to contact them and send it in. I've read here about v4 firmware, but haven't seen any reviews on performance after the upgrade.

Here is my brief 'review' that I wrote about this projector. I've largely retired from writing about audio/HT products but this one was written for fun;

http://www.audioenz.co.nz/2007/mitsubishi_hc5000.shtml

Has anyone gotten help from Mitsubishi Tech with the dust problem? I have a unit that is firmware v3 and am wondering if it is worth it to contact them and send it in. I've read here about v4 firmware, but haven't seen any reviews on performance after the upgrade.

Do you have blobs? I personally never like sending anything back unless it is absolutely required.

Do you have blobs? I personally never like sending anything back unless it is absolutely required.

Actually, no, not that I have seen. I bought the unit for installation in our new house, and since it won't be ready until August, I have time to send it in.

I hear you, "If it ain't broke...". What I was looking for was preventative, as it seems there are quite a few people with the complaint. I figured I had the time to get it right and that way I wouldn't have to wait while it gets the upgrade when I could be using it.

I've got three blobs, only visible on black screens. I can't detect them with any content on screen. This wasn't the case when I installed it, it has occurred recently. I haven't tried the canned-air trick to clear them.

Since I have owned a Z2 and Z4.. both of which always got dust blobs, I figured what the heck, will give this a projector a squirt of air too.... Holy screws batman hehe. The Sanyo's were much easier to get then this Mitsubishi. The Mit has an aluminum cover on the inside that you need to remove.. about 12 screws holds this cover. And the opening/gap leading to the 3 LCD panels were abit smaller then what I was used to from the Sanyo projectors. I used half the cans air blowing this sucker out, just to make sure =). Well I just got it hooked back up and put the splash screen on black, and thank God the 1 Big Blob is GONE! I then went to the focus screen, and defocused it all the way to the left, it did show that there were couple of small dust blobs left, but once refocused, they do not show up. So if you do not have any hang ups about taking apart your projector, I can say that a good blow job will do the trick!.... that kind of sounded bad ;) .

I've just upgraded the firmware for the PS3 so that it can output 1080p24, however the projector will not display a 1080p24 signal when I set the PS3 to this output. Am I doing something wrong or is it the case that this projector does not accept a 1080p24MHz signal?

I've just upgraded the firmware for the PS3 so that it can output 1080p24, however the projector will not display a 1080p24 signal when I set the PS3 to this output. Am I doing something wrong or is it the case that this projector does not accept a 1080p24MHz signal?
I also updated my firmware on the PS3 yesterday and all works great for me on 1080p, the image is super!

I've just upgraded the firmware for the PS3 so that it can output 1080p24, however the projector will not display a 1080p24 signal when I set the PS3 to this output. Am I doing something wrong or is it the case that this projector does not accept a 1080p24MHz signal?

It will but are you passing the signal through an AV amplifier as a switch? If you are, that could be tripping the 24fps auto detection.

So far, it has been a problem with Yamaha x700x, a Sony receiver (ironic :)) and even a VP50.

Works fine apparently with Denon 2807, 4806, Pioneer and Marantz 8001.''

I am passing it through a Pioneer receiver, which is probably the problem.

it works fine here as well, does anyone experienced some rattling noise when you turn the PJ on, i have a rattling noise for about 2 sec. is this normal?

it works fine here as well, does anyone experienced some rattling noise when you turn the PJ on, i have a rattling noise for about 2 sec. is this normal?
I have never heard anything with mine.

how do you KNOW it is coming through at 1080p24 or not?

how do you KNOW it is coming through at 1080p24 or not?

Menu and go to the right most submenu which gives you the signal info.

it works fine here as well, does anyone experienced some rattling noise when you turn the PJ on, i have a rattling noise for about 2 sec. is this normal?
The iris does make a rattling noise when gearing up. Could it be that?

My new unit also makes a very slight noise on startup. It sounds like the fan to me, but I am sure it is nothing to worry about as you almost have to be looking for it to hear it.

Since I have owned a Z2 and Z4.. both of which always got dust blobs, I figured what the heck, will give this a projector a squirt of air too.... Holy screws batman hehe. The Sanyo's were much easier to get then this Mitsubishi. The Mit has an aluminum cover on the inside that you need to remove.. about 12 screws holds this cover. And the opening/gap leading to the 3 LCD panels were abit smaller then what I was used to from the Sanyo projectors. I used half the cans air blowing this sucker out, just to make sure =). Well I just got it hooked back up and put the splash screen on black, and thank God the 1 Big Blob is GONE! I then went to the focus screen, and defocused it all the way to the left, it did show that there were couple of small dust blobs left, but once refocused, they do not show up. So if you do not have any hang ups about taking apart your projector, I can say that a good blow job will do the trick!.... that kind of sounded bad ;) .

Marty,

Can you please give a little bit more detailed post about how you cleaned the panels? Maybe post some pictures and a basic how to guide for cleaning your own projector next time you need to go through the procedure?

I am currently on my second 5000 due to the dust blob issue that was present on startup of the 1st projector. The place I bought the projector from was very good about getting Mitsubishi to replace the projector instead of the normal send it back for cleaning spiel that Mitsubishi tells you. I don't know about you guys, but I should not have to send a new unit back for anything in the first day of use, especially for that price! I had absolutely no luck with Mitsubishi myself and had to get the vendor involved. It also took over 3 weeks to happen. The vendor has sold hundreds of these units and said that I was the first one he had who reported the issue. Needless to say I am very happy and my new unit does not have the dust blob issue. I want to keep it that way, so I went out and purchased a $150 Sharper Image Ionic Breeze air purifier to sit directly below the projector, which is mounted on the ceiling. Let me tell you that this air purifier is amazing as it makes no noise at all as there is no fan in the unit, but there is probably a 95% reduction in dust particles that you see lit up in front of the projector now, so I hope I have greatly reduced my chances of dust getting into the projector in the first place. My thought process that if I can not rely on Mitsubishi to improve the filter in this unit, then I need to do something to reduce the likelihood of occurrance. As far as I can tell there is very little if any technology employed in this filter, which does not look adequate for the job IMHO.

What would really be nice is if we could get somebody who knows a bit more about filter material/technology to recomend a new filter media that would allow for virtually the same airflow that we could cut to size and use instead of the standard one. Somebody could do some basic testing using the internal temperature of the unit as the output to monitor to make sure the airflow is virtually the same. You can easily see this value in the service menu.

Is there someone that use a 1080p@48Hz resolution with this pj?
If yes, can you post the timings?

Thank you so much,
acta.

What would really be nice is if we could get somebody who knows a bit more about filter material/technology to recomend a new filter media that would allow for virtually the same airflow that we could cut to size and use instead of the standard one. Somebody could do some basic testing using the internal temperature of the unit as the output to monitor to make sure the airflow is virtually the same. You can easily see this value in the service menu.


Dont know anything about filter technology, but I have an old Hitachi projector which had horrible dust blob problems. After having it cleaned by Hitachi I followed someones advice and simply duct taped a section of nylon panty hose over the air intake. It doesnt affect the air flow at all, and I havent had a single dust blob for the last two years. I simply vacuum the panty hose from the outside to clean. Maybe this can help someone here.

Im eyeing up the HC5000 as an upgrade and regardless of any reported Mitsu fixes to air filtration, I will be doing the nylon panty hose trick with the HC5000 from day one.

it works fine here as well, does anyone experienced some rattling noise when you turn the PJ on, i have a rattling noise for about 2 sec. is this normal?
I also have the rattling noise you describe, but for me the noise is constantly there. Any time the projector is on I hear this rattling noise. I have sent an email to Mits. Support and they were useless. They told me to contact customer service by phone. I haven’t got around to doing that because I have been on travel for work. Some time in the next week or two I will give them a call and let you know what they say.

Dont know anything about filter technology, but I have an old Hitachi projector which had horrible dust blob problems. After having it cleaned by Hitachi I followed someones advice and simply duct taped a section of nylon panty hose over the air intake. It doesnt affect the air flow at all, and I havent had a single dust blob for the last two years. I simply vacuum the panty hose from the outside to clean. Maybe this can help someone here.

Im eyeing up the HC5000 as an upgrade and regardless of any reported Mitsu fixes to air filtration, I will be doing the nylon panty hose trick with the HC5000 from day one.

That seems like a good trick, but it obviously affects airflow somewhat due to the added resistance across the pantyhose, although it may be an inconsequential amount (ie less than the normal filter with a one month dust buildup). I believe that the HC5000 adjusts the speed of the fan based on the internal bulb temperature anyway, so as long as it is still within the design space for the fan speed there would be no negative effect (ie the 5000 would just increase fan speed slightly to compensate). I am sure that the unit does this as the existing filter fills up anyway! An easy way to test would be to do it and monitor the internal temperature of the bulb after being on for maybe 15 minutes on several different days, with and without the pantyhose.

Thanks for the suggestion as I might do some testing. The ionic breeze unit has done a great job of lowing the amount of dust in the room as well.

I do highly recommend this unit, but you may want to wait for a price drop, which seems to be inevitable soon to compete with the Epson and Panasonic units. Keep checking with AVScience as I got a great deal from them! Most sites reviews rate the HC5000 higher than either of those units, but the difference between these machines is beginning to be like splitting hairs and the cost differences are getting huge.

Just found out that the Japanese sourced units no longer have English OSD.

That has just put the brakes on my international purchase.

Just found out that the Japanese sourced units no longer have English OSD.

It's the menu that's in Japanese only (not the little pop-up messages that are normally referred to by the OSD moniker). The layout and icons of the menu are unchanged, though, so all it takes to use without Japanese language skills is the English manual and a little bit of cross-referencing.

(Living in Japan ...)

so is there any information being released by Mitsubishi as to what V4 firmware actually achieves? (apart from the so called fan speed changes to blow dust away)

Yes, as I posted on this issue in another thread - one thing that has been changed in the new firmware is that the device cranks the fan speed up when starting up to dislodge any dust on the panels before bringing the fan speed back to normal. I'm not aware of other changes. From what the Mits tech guys tell me, dust has been the main problem so far. As I and others will attest :(

one thing that has been changed in the new firmware is that the device cranks the fan speed up when starting up to dislodge any dust on the panels before bringing the fan speed back to normal. I'm not aware of other changes.
This is exactly what my local Mits engineer had told me abt v4 firmware. He also clarified that nothing related to the "signal" was changed unlike the PAL improvements in v3 over v2 firmware.

If anybody out there tries the cine4home mod, please report your findings on black levels and contrast ratio improvements, and any other changes to brightness etc etc :)

I posted this in the technique to highlight dust issue thread. If some of you are reading both, sorry for the double post, but I thought it was important enough to post. If a simple piece of panty hose can save us having to send this unit back every few months then we are all in luck. Here is the post:

Can anybody post what their inlet and bulb temperatures are for the projector running in high lamp mode after about 30 minutes of running? It is available in the service menu.

I tried the panty hose trick on my new unit since it does not have the dust blob issue yet. It appeares to have raised the bulb temperature by about 2 degrees C over just using the stock air filter that is perfectly clean, however I run in low lamp mode in my light controlled basement. I am interested to see how the new bulb temperature compares to running the unit in high bulb mode, so I can judge the effect on bulb life. My guess is that it the temperature is still way under running in high bulb mode. I need both inlet and bulb temperature as the inlet temperature will greatly effect the bulb temperature. My basement is very cool, so I figure there is no way this is worse than somebody else running in a hotter environment with a somewhat clogged filter.

I think you are going at it the wrong way...

I always run in low mode and lamp-temp allways seem to be 67 - 68 degrees C.
I noticed that fan mode was pending between 3 and 4 when I bought the unit(winter time).
It is now hot as hell outside and at least somewhat warmer indoors.

30 min ago the unit was in low mode, the fan mode was pending between 7-8 and lamp-temp was 68 degrees C.

When I switched to high mode the fan increased noticeably(louder), but the fan mode remained unchanged(7-8) and lamp-temp decreased(yes decreased) to 64 degrees C within a few minutes.
Those numbers remained constant for at least 20 minutes when I saw no point in testing any further and switched back to low mode.
The fan went silent and the lamp-temp slowly climbed back to 68 degrees...

In-temp has been constant at 28 degrees C during the entire test. I have no idea what the actual room temp is but I should be at least a few degrees less than 28 C.

In other words... I don't see why the bulb-temp should change if you clog up the filter or put a panty hose around the filter.... The only thing that should be changing should be the fan mode, which I know can go up to at least mode 24(I discovered that when I accidently placed a PS3 a little bit to close:) ).

I think you are going at it the wrong way...

I always run in low mode and lamp-temp allways seem to be 67 - 68 degrees C.
I noticed that fan mode was pending between 3 and 4 when I bought the unit(winter time).
It is now hot as hell outside and at least somewhat warmer indoors.

30 min ago the unit was in low mode, the fan mode was pending between 7-8 and lamp-temp was 68 degrees C.

When I switched to high mode the fan increased noticeably(louder), but the fan mode remained unchanged(7-8) and lamp-temp decreased(yes decreased) to 64 degrees C within a few minutes.
Those numbers remained constant for at least 20 minutes when I saw no point in testing any further and switched back to low mode.
The fan went silent and the lamp-temp slowly climbed back to 68 degrees...

In-temp has been constant at 28 degrees C during the entire test. I have no idea what the actual room temp is but I should be at least a few degrees less than 28 C.

In other words... I don't see why the bulb-temp should change if you clog up the filter or put a panty hose around the filter.... The only thing that should be changing should be the fan mode, which I know can go up to at least mode 24(I discovered that when I accidently placed a PS3 a little bit to close:) ).

Thanks for the information. My fan mode was 0 when I first looked and then did not pay attention to it anymore, so I will re-look at that variable during testing. My system ran at 23.5 deg. C inlet temperature and came up to 68 deg. C once the panty hose was on. It was 66 deg. C before the panty hose. I will go back and look at fan speed closer. It is interesting that the bulb ran cooler in high mode. I wonder why the lamp life is 2.5 x less in high mode then, do the bulbs just burn out the material inside, which is somewhat unrelated to bulb temperature? As far as I can tell there is no negative impact to operation and I am going to keep operating this way and clean the panty hose once the temperature spikes upward slightly.

If anybody out there tries the cine4home mod, please report your findings on black levels and contrast ratio improvements, and any other changes to brightness etc etc

I will get the cine4home tuning this month. Maybe in two weeks. I'll let you know.

I will get the cine4home tuning this month. Maybe in two weeks. I'll let you know.

Excellent. Keep us informed. For those of us who love a sharp picture, I think the mod could be pretty amazing. Modding one of the sharpest 1080p projectors for much improved contrast and black levels that are comparable to the Pearl and better than the Epson and Panasonic sounds pretty amazing.

Since Mitsubishi has Ekkehart's projector with the mods I wonder if they will be incorporated into subsequent HC5000 production.

Since Mitsubishi has Ekkehart's projector with the mods I wonder if they will be incorporated into subsequent HC5000 production.

This sort of interests me. I too wonder if Mitsubishi will incorporate some of the Ekkehart/tuning design into the new unit.

I think the JVC tech, as long as it stays good and improves, will lead the way, but there's nothing wrong with getting performance out of the 1080p lcd like Ekkehart was able to do. Allows us in the 1080 lcd camp to get more for our money, AND it pushes the better stuff like the RS1 to either get better and/or cheaper.

I also wonder/wish that Hitachi would get back into the game. If they were able to provide a 1080 lcd with their dual-iris (one manual and one auto) and their tweakability (colour-uniformity etc)... that would be awesome.

...but yeah, I hope to hear more about the Mitsubishi tweak because it's a way to get a super-sharp 1080 lcd with ultra-high contrast black level performance...or so it seems.

This sort of interests me. I too wonder if Mitsubishi will incorporate some of the Ekkehart/tuning design into the new unit.

I think the JVC tech, as long as it stays good and improves, will lead the way, but there's nothing wrong with getting performance out of the 1080p lcd like Ekkehart was able to do. Allows us in the 1080 lcd camp to get more for our money, AND it pushes the better stuff like the RS1 to either get better and/or cheaper.

I also wonder/wish that Hitachi would get back into the game. If they were able to provide a 1080 lcd with their dual-iris (one manual and one auto) and their tweakability (colour-uniformity etc)... that would be awesome.

...but yeah, I hope to hear more about the Mitsubishi tweak because it's a way to get a super-sharp 1080 lcd with ultra-high contrast black level performance...or so it seems.


May be Ekkehart has a clue.... Ekkehart, can you respond?

Where is any articles on the Cine4home mod? I can not find anything on their website (english).

Also the pantyhose trick is working very well 68 deg. bulb temperature with the fan operating in mode 1-2.

http://www.cine4home.de/Tuning/HC5000Ultra/HC5000Ultra.htm


^ Use babelfish to translate


The real question is who can legitimately do the modification and a raise of voices for those who have had the mod done...


::: crickets chirp :::

:( :( :(

It amazes me how Mitsubishi would not purchase this kit and charge a fee to do this in their service centers (ie make a profit from it). Or better yet, just offer the service and require the customer to purchase the mod. Simply sign a waiver form that relinquishes the rest of your factory warranty (which would happen no matter who installed it). At least that way they could guarantee that the mod is installed correctly and the unit works properly upon shipment back to the customer. There really would not be too many customers doing this and what better way for them to get in the field usage data to assist with the design of their next projector. Big companies never seem to support cool stuff like this.

It amazes me how Mitsubishi would not purchase this kit and charge a fee to do this in their service centers (ie make a profit from it). Or better yet, just offer the service and require the customer to purchase the mod. Simply sign a waiver form that relinquishes the rest of your factory warranty (which would happen no matter who installed it). At least that way they could guarantee that the mod is installed correctly and the unit works properly upon shipment back to the customer. There really would not be too many customers doing this and what better way for them to get in the field usage data to assist with the design of their next projector. Big companies never seem to support cool stuff like this.


They would probably have to employ people around the world especially to do this, then possibly keep them employed afterwards. And there goes any profit they could possibly make on a one-off mod/service.

More likely to be in a HC5010 which they can pump out through their existing manufacturing and distribution system...

(unfortunately)

They would probably have to employ people around the world especially to do this, then possibly keep them employed afterwards. And there goes any profit they could possibly make on a one-off mod/service.

More likely to be in a HC5010 which they can pump out through their existing manufacturing and distribution system...

(unfortunately)


HC5010? Is that only a rumor? :p

The real question is who can legitimately do the modification and a raise of voices for those who have had the mod done...



I've just tried to pull apart my HC5000 to clean out dust and ruined the connectors holding the LCD ribbon cable. You can't replace the connectors and have to replace the entire PCB at a cost of around USD$1000 - that's a expensive risk to take if you need to go any further. Let me tell you - this projector is one complicated, delicate piece of equipment. You have to be very brave and/or knowledgeable to do mods yourself.

With it already apart, the warranty voided, and that kind of money needed to repair it, you would be crazy IMHO not to send it to Cine4Home and have it modded. Who knows maybe they can even repair the connectors without having to replace the entire PCB. Shoot maybe they have a unit that they can pull parts from. That is almost 33% of what I paid for the projector.

If you don't mind me asking, how did you break the connectors? I have taken apart tons of electronics apart myself to fix them including my entire iRobot vaccuum as well as DVD and DVR's and have never broken anything. What makes the projector more complicated? Just currious.

With it already apart, the warranty voided, and that kind of money needed to repair it, you would be crazy IMHO not to send it to Cine4Home and have it modded.

As I live in Australia, I think it would cost about the same money to send it across to Germany and back again by courier. I'd need insurance for that sort of trip so it starts to get very expensive. Then I have the mod costs/repairs etc on top of that... Shame, as it's an excellent idea.

How did I break it (them!!)? I pushed the flip levers the wrong way and too hard and pffftt, the whole thing comes apart. I'd never seen those type of ribbon cable connectors before so I was puzzling them a bit before I budged them. An expensive way to learn some useless information. ;) The schematics of the HC5000 don't show the connectors properly, nor do the detailed instructions on disassembly so I had to work it out myself. Yes, I do have a copy of the technical manuals from Mits.

The authorised repairers told me fixing those connectors is very difficult due to the micro soldering involved. It's out of their league I guess. Might PM the "Meister" for his views on repairing this one. Thanks for the heads-up.

How did I break it (them!!)? I pushed the flip levers the wrong way and too hard and pffftt, the whole thing comes apart. I'd never seen those type of ribbon cable connectors before so I was puzzling them a bit before I budged them.

If the unit is still apart, maybe you could take a picture with a slightly more detailed explanation so that others do not repeat the same error?

I am really hoping the panty hose I duct taped over the stock filter prevents any dust blob issues since others have reported that trick worked with similar LCD projectors. Only time will tell.

I really like this PJ, but have some concerns about the dust blob issues some of you have posted about. Well, there is a fella on eBay that is selling these with a claimed F/W Ver 4 that eliminates this...

"This has the absolute LATEST firmware revision, version 4, not yet available in the states! It fixes the 'dust blobs' issue in previous units."

Is this true - can and does firmware fix this problem?
Are the blobs isolated issues - or is everyone seeing this?

I'm gearing up to pull the trigger on a 1080p, and this one fits the bill nicely.

the latest firmware (version 4) was released to fix the 'dust blob' issue.

it seems to be an isolated problem. some report the problem, others do not. the environment and hours of use are probably directly related....

the latest firmware (version 4) was released to fix the 'dust blob' issue.

it seems to be an isolated problem. some report the problem, others do not. the environment and hours of use are probably directly related....

There is no correlation to hours of use. My first projector had the problem and was noticeable within a few hours of use. I am sure environment might have something to do with it, but my environment was not any dustier than a normal house. Version 4 changes the programming of the fan to be more aggressive upon start up to try blow any dust off of the LCD panels, but there is no evidence yet that this version totally eliminates the issue. IMHO if the filter is not particularly good, then this change may help, but I doubt it totally solves the issue. Stay tuned for more people to get v.4 so we can find out. If I were buying a new one, I would prefer to get V.4 if I could. My second unit is still V.3

HC5010? Is that only a rumor? :p


Not even a rumor, just a fantasy of mine.

has anyone had this issue? a friend of mine has reported the following:

after watching either a movie or tv the screen starts to
get a green tint on most parts of the screen after about 5 minutes. It
looks like a computer screen from the 1980's. If I turn the projector off
and let it cool down the green is gone when I turn it back on. Yesterday I
was able to watch an entire movie and the green did not appear. Today
however it has appeared both times I turned the projector on.

????????

What input is he using and also have him go into the service menu and see what temperature the unit is running at. Is the filter clean?

What input is he using and also have him go into the service menu and see what temperature the unit is running at. Is the filter clean?


he says it happens when using both HDMI and component when watching his dvd player and cable. i'll get the temperature readings from him. the filter SHOULD be clean, the unit is brand new.


"Like I said though, eventually it goes away, but yesterday it took over an hour for it to completely disappear."

Already sounds like a warranty issue. I was just trying to see if it was limited to a single imput. The temperature would have to be way high for it to be temperature related, but just have him grab the numbers to see.

Already sounds like a warranty issue. I was just trying to see if it was limited to a single imput. The temperature would have to be way high for it to be temperature related, but just have him grab the numbers to see.

i'll get them from him and post shortly!

My projector was bought last november and I have 3 dust blobs. This is really a design flaw and all of us should ask mitsubishi a solution... (A firmware downloadable and installable by us would be fine).

What I'm very curious is why the silence (or lack of info) about the Ultra HC5000 modification. I remember that on 7th of May there was a big meeting in Germany to compare (with serious tests) an Ultra HC5000 a normal HC5000, a sony pearl and the JVC RS1.

I expected something in cine4home, an article or any conclusions... But nothing was written.

I still wait for more info to decide to make the mod. One of the modders in germany even advertise that when the new firmware is available the would intall it during the process of the modification... So, it's interesting, but we must be sure that the modification is worth the 400 euros they ask for it.

My projector was bought last november and I have 3 dust blobs. This is really a design flaw and all of us should ask mitsubishi a solution... (A firmware downloadable and installable by us would be fine).

What I'm very curious is why the silence (or lack of info) about the Ultra HC5000 modification. I remember that on 7th of May there was a big meeting in Germany to compare (with serious tests) an Ultra HC5000 a normal HC5000, a sony pearl and the JVC RS1.

I expected something in cine4home, an article or any conclusions... But nothing was written.

I still wait for more info to decide to make the mod. One of the modders in germany even advertise that when the new firmware is available the would intall it during the process of the modification... So, it's interesting, but we must be sure that the modification is worth the 400 euros they ask for it.


We wrote a big special on cine4home.de

:)

Regards,
Ekkehart

We wrote a big special on cine4home.de

:)

Regards,
Ekkehart



Arrgh!! Can't understand German!

Rich

the only thing I can find in cine4home is the article:

Großes Cine4Home Tuning Special:
LCD-Projektor HC5000 "Ultra Edition"

I can't find in news, tests or special anything about the 7th may meeting.

only the announcement 27th april in news:

SOUNDBROTHERS Event
am 07. Mai 2007 ab 15 Uhr in Kassel

Can you post here please a link with info, or tell us something about that day...

Thanks,

Sergio.

the only thing I can find in cine4home is the article:

Großes Cine4Home Tuning Special:
LCD-Projektor HC5000 "Ultra Edition"

I can't find in news, tests or special anything about the 7th may meeting.

only the announcement 27th april in news:

SOUNDBROTHERS Event
am 07. Mai 2007 ab 15 Uhr in Kassel

Can you post here please a link with info, or tell us something about that day...

Thanks,

Sergio.



Oh I see, yes we have no article about that event.

People were very impressed and concluded, that the picture quality was better than the one of a Pearl.

But you can see the discussion of independant people in a german forum. Especially the observation of "jo" is interesting.

Note: In German, you need a translator

FORUM LINK (http://******************/thread.php?threadid=76090</b>[/)


Regards,
Ekkehart

PS: You have to replace the "***" with www. b e i s a m m e n. de in the link for it to work (for some reason it gets censored by the software here?)

Ok thanks for the link. This is what I wanted... Opinions...

The Ultra HC5000 seems a very good mod and you're proud of it. So, please write an article in cine4home about the final conclusions. Without the article seems an unfinished coverage.

Anyway, thanks again.

Sergio.

I hope no one gets upset, but I will copy/paste what was said in the german forum (on-line translated)

Nick (8th May)

Today I have participated in the image(performance) of the HC 5000 „ extremists version “ by Ekkehart and Ulrich with the Soundbrothers in Kassel - a home match. Start with mine Thanks to all partners and beautifully that I could get to know the Jungs of Cine4Home individually.

The surroundings
Almost perfectly black space(area). It became a normal HC 5000 in „ split screen “ Proceed, i.e. in each case a half covered, with a HC 5000 „ extremists version “ compared. Both devices were practically new auskunftsgemäß. Screen(canvas) probably just 3 m. Both in the Eco procedure. Mainly DVD (Denon 3930) was passed. In the absence of functioning fragment the analogous component signal of the Denon got getunte a digital signal and the serie device.

The picture
Immediately to the most important one: the HC 5000 has not inspired many in puncto black value and contrast so, has included me. After the Tuning a visible increase is to be registered here which falls out according to scene subjectively differently high. Time clearly, hardly visibly. A black slacken is noticeably blacker, night sky (e.g., at the beginning of Toystory 2) also and, besides, shows „ more stars “. In dark scenes disappears a part of the greyness, the Durchzeichnung rises. So, as if somebody switched off the (low) rest lighting in the space(area). Ungetunte pointed out of the punch also little bit divergent colors which I would summarize in first with a light(easy) green stitch. Witty proofs was more bright getunte in spite of scattered light screen and filter even a quirk – the Jungs from cine4home tapped on the serie dispersion than cause. However, Umso higher one must also value the simultaneous black value improvement. Because the subject was discussed at the top: light enough exists for my taste (ok, both had new lamps, for it they were in the Ecomode).
Open getunte HC 5000 now no more wishes? Probably, nevertheless, still one or other. A step in the correct direction, no more and no less. Time quite unscientific: the distance in the black with the high and lower beams to the shade of a hand held in the picture has become lower, but still unambiguously visibly. You want a point assignment of me? Really?? Well. If I give to the serie device in puncto black value and contrast 12 of 20 points, receives getunte from me 14 points. Time so from the belly out. It is a pity that I could not see losmusste and the comparison with the Pearl or HD1 any more – who reports of it?

The other
Beautifully quietly(soft) is the Mitsu, but you already know this. Both devices together were pursued subjectively not louder than my Z5.
Besides, my full respect in Ekkehart and Ulrich. If I already think class how the both clear up a Japanese world group just about what lets itself with justifiable expenditure so from their(her) products herausholen! Or in a different way expressed, awkwardly for mitsubishi. But somehow I anticipate that it is elsewhere also so. Anyhow, we could still use every amount of people(persons) of the sort Ekkehart and Ulrich.

Result
Repays the Tuning? It arrives naturally also on the price. Somewhere I have caught that the Soundbrothers require Euro surcharge (by the new purchase for the Tuning 300, - does not nail me!!). In relation to the device price I would say that the achieved progress this money is worth. But each must judge this for itself.

Greeting,
Nick


Jo:

Hello,

In addition to the report of Nick I can-a few notes of me confirm only to the outdated comparison with the HD1 or Pearl with the Soundbrothers.

HC 5000 " extremists edition " vs. JVC HD-1

Various scenes were shown by DVD (Denon 3930) as well as in FullHD (Samsung Bavarian Broadcasting Corporation player). Connection in the variant analogous component HC 5000 extremists vs. HD 1 digital as well as vice versa(conversely), as well as digital vs. digital. The HD 1 (attitude(setting) low) also collects points opposite getunten HC 5000 (attitude(setting) low) in the area of black value and contrast (e.g., night sky), however, the distance is not very big any more. There were even exciting picture-scenes with those on split screen no more difference was to be seen. In the attitude(setting) HD1 low vs. HC 5000 extremists was comparable normally the brightness, with much worse black value of the HC 5000 extremists.

In the colors more "Kinolike" has to me individually the HD1 with his(its) big Farbraum there - better like(fall). However, there were also voices, the "paler" colors (normal Farbraum) of the HC 5000 extremists there more of the standard corresponding-preferred. In the image definition lay the HD 5000 extremists also opposite the HD1 easily in front.

HC 5000 " extremists edition " vs. Sony Pearl

It was surprising for me, but the Pearl (out-of-the-box - version) could not keep up with the HC 5000 extremists in black value and contrast unambiguously. However, in accordance with the cine4home colleagues it is possible to lift him by Tuningmaßnahmen on HC 5000 ultra-levels.

With the colors and the brightness had to the Pearl light(easy) advantages, however, lost with the image definition clearly against the HC 5000 extremists.

Result

According to my estimation the nose has the HD 1 opposite the HC 5000 extremists in the picture impression altogether in front whether that justifies an extra charge of approx. 2.700 Euros, each itself must decide. However, for me the points are also a volume (HC 5000 is important here opposite HC1 and Pearl clearly in front) and image definition. Because the picture brightness is sufficient also with the HC 5000 extremists on screens(canvases) to 3 m (naturally no 12 ft Lamberts are reached what, e.g., the old tubes could not, however, also far) is the HC 5000 extremists for me also from the price and performance relation-high-interesting device.

Many thanks also from my side(page) in Ekkehart Schmitt and Ulrich Lange as well as the team the Soundbrothers for the impressive demonstration and the cool beverages.

Greeting,
Jo

My projector was bought last november and I have 3 dust blobs. This is really a design flaw and all of us should ask mitsubishi a solution... (A firmware downloadable and installable by us would be fine).

What I'm very curious is why the silence (or lack of info) about the Ultra HC5000 modification. I remember that on 7th of May there was a big meeting in Germany to compare (with serious tests) an Ultra HC5000 a normal HC5000, a sony pearl and the JVC RS1.

I expected something in cine4home, an article or any conclusions... But nothing was written.

I still wait for more info to decide to make the mod. One of the modders in germany even advertise that when the new firmware is available the would intall it during the process of the modification... So, it's interesting, but we must be sure that the modification is worth the 400 euros they ask for it.

As far a the dust blobs a piece of woman's panty hose taped over the factory filter inlet appears to work well to stop the dust blob problem. At least so far for me. My first projector had the dust blob problem within 2 hours of use and this unit has 120 hours on it already (low lamp) with no problem, but I installed the panty hose over the factory filter inlet upon another members suggestion maybe 1 hour into use. No visible effect on bulb temperature or factory fan mode. My unit runs in mode 0-2 with 68deg C bulb temperature.

Ok thanks for the link. This is what I wanted... Opinions...

The Ultra HC5000 seems a very good mod and you're proud of it. So, please write an article in cine4home about the final conclusions. Without the article seems an unfinished coverage.

Anyway, thanks again.

Sergio.

I second this, Ekkehard, this would be very useful as an indication of improved perfomance in a testing environment

The HC5000 "Ultra" is clearly an improvement over the standard version, but at the end of the day it still relies on a dynamic iris to acheive its black levels. I wonder if the blacks still look washed out in scenes with the right mixture of light and dark portions of the picture.

The HC5000 "Ultra" is clearly an improvement over the standard version, but at the end of the day it still relies on a dynamic iris to acheive its black levels. I wonder if the blacks still look washed out in scenes with the right mixture of light and dark portions of the picture.


No in contrary. As the or lens-iris takes out scattered light of the picture the scenes look ultra-3D. Also even without DI, you have a great picture depth. HC5000 Ultra with deactivated DI = better contrast than normal HC5000 with activated iris.

And: The action of the DI is hardly visible anymore when activated, because scattererd light ist not disturbing anymore.

Regards,
Ekkehart

Ekkehart,

Is there any progress in getting a U.S. projector repair place or enthusiast approved to install your upgrade to the HC5000 Ultra? Even getting only one place certified to install this great option in the U.S. would be fantastic.

No in contrary. As the or lens-iris takes out scattered light of the picture the scenes look ultra-3D. Also even without DI, you have a great picture depth. HC5000 Ultra with deactivated DI = better contrast than normal HC5000 with activated iris.

And: The action of the DI is hardly visible anymore when activated, because scattererd light ist not disturbing anymore.

Regards,
Ekkehart

Are you talking RS1 3D ability?

thanks,

Quote:
Originally Posted by Cine4Home
No in contrary. As the or lens-iris takes out scattered light of the picture the scenes look ultra-3D. Also even without DI, you have a great picture depth. HC5000 Ultra with deactivated DI = better contrast than normal HC5000 with activated iris.

And: The action of the DI is hardly visible anymore when activated, because scattererd light ist not disturbing anymore.

Regards,
Ekkehart




Ekkehart: Any word from Mitsubishi as to whether they will incorporate your mods to subsequent HC5000 production runs?

Hello,

Well darn. Two projectors, both with the same dust blob problems. My 1st one was replaced by dealer with a new one.

Don't know if I'll be able to get a third new one or have to go through a repair process.

This is annnoying. Wish I would have tried the panty hose fix :)

May be time to try another product??

On a more positive note, I changed my screen material from Grayhawk to the new Firehawk G3. Big improvement! Brighter, less grainy looking, fewer sparklies, and better looking black levels. Highly recommended.


Mark

Hello,

Well darn. Two projectors, both with the same dust blob problems. My 1st one was replaced by dealer with a new one.

Don't know if I'll be able to get a third new one or have to go through a repair process.

This is annnoying. Wish I would have tried the panty hose fix :)

May be time to try another product??

On a more positive note, I changed my screen material from Grayhawk to the new Firehawk G3. Big improvement! Brighter, less grainy looking, fewer sparklies, and better looking black levels. Highly recommended.


Mark


Aside from the annoying dust blobs are you satisfied with how the dynamic iris works? What is your iris setting? What is the gain of your Stewart Firehawk G3? Why did you chose it rather than the StudioTek 130? My apologies for the "20" questions... :)

It looks like the HC4900 doesnt have P24, so that rules it out for me. So it looks like a HC5000 or better.

FWIW, Audioholics just completed a review of the Mitsubishi HC5000:

http://www.audioholics.com/reviews/projectors/mitsubishi-hc5000-projector

I have taken more than a little flack for telling people I felt the color accuracy was perfect out of the box. Nice to see a little back me up on that one. :)

I sure have enjoyed mine to date. Only about 3 months though.

I have taken more than a little flack for telling people I felt the color accuracy was perfect out of the box. Nice to see a little back me up on that one. :)

I sure have enjoyed mine to date. Only about 3 months though.


The only gripe from the reviewer was the auto iris... is it really a deal breaker?

If Mitsubishi comes out with a new projector with a manual and auto iris and tests as good or similarly as cine4homes experiment, I may consider the next Mits HC5000 or whatever it may be called, instead of the RS1 for my next projector.

If Mitsubishi comes out with a new projector with a manual and auto iris and tests as good or similarly as cine4homes experiment, I may consider the next Mits HC5000 or whatever it may be called, instead of the RS1 for my next projector.


According to Ekkehart Mitsubishi has a modified HC5000 in their hot little hands and it wouldn't be difficult for them to add these mods to the subsequent production runs. Yeah, I'd be very interested! :D

FWIW, Audioholics just completed a review of the Mitsubishi HC5000:

http://www.audioholics.com/reviews/projectors/mitsubishi-hc5000-projector

I noticed the reviewer states that this pj (as well as a few previous pjs reviewed on this site, ex. Epson 1080) don't pass the blacker-than-black signal...I understand this affects our ability to adjust the "drop shadow" on a calibration disc...does this mean that is it inherently handicapped with respect to shadow detail? Or is this one of those Gee-Whiz parameter's that they test but that really have no practical bearing on picture quality?

Thanks,

The only gripe from the reviewer was the auto iris... is it really a deal breaker?


Hard to say how Auto Iris will be percieved. You really have to demo them.

For me, I have no issues with any of the auto iris systems. I never notice them working when watchign a film, even the models some people on here really hate.


I leave it on the default settings for the HC5000.

Hard to say how Auto Iris will be percieved. You really have to demo them.

For me, I have no issues with any of the auto iris systems. I never notice them working when watchign a film, even the models some people on here really hate.


I leave it on the default settings for the HC5000.


Since I don't yet own an HC5000 (I do own the HC3000 and I love it! :D ) can you tell me what is the default setting? As I understand it, there are several auto iris settings available.

Aside from the annoying dust blobs are you satisfied with how the dynamic iris works? What is your iris setting? What is the gain of your Stewart Firehawk G3? Why did you chose it rather than the StudioTek 130? My apologies for the "20" questions... :)


The dynamic iris doesn't bother me. I never notice it when watching a movie.

Overall, I really like the projector (except for the dust blobs).

The Firehawk G3 gain is 1.25. I chose it because I don't have complete light control and have to deal with some ambient light. The Firehawk handles it very well.

The dynamic iris doesn't bother me. I never notice it when watching a movie.

Overall, I really like the projector (except for the dust blobs).

The Firehawk G3 gain is 1.25. I chose it because I don't have complete light control and have to deal with some ambient light. The Firehawk handles it very well.


Thanks for your response.

I have a StudioTek 130 clone screen... it's a 92" DIY screen using Wilsonart's Designer White laminate. I used to have a high contrast gray screen but I much prefer the "pop" of a white screen despite the fact that my walls and ceilings are beige.

FWIW, Audioholics just completed a review of the Mitsubishi HC5000:

http://www.audioholics.com/reviews/projectors/mitsubishi-hc5000-projector

Good review. But there are a few things that I don't agree with, or think is wrong in this review.

The review states that the Mitsu hc5000 has HDMI 1.3 - I don't think this is correct. Unless the newer production runs has changed specifications.

The reviewer couldn't confirm that HC5000 supports 1080p/24 input because his Toshiba XA2 didn't have this yet... - but I can confirm that 1080p/24 works. :) I use my PS3 with 1080p/24 output for BD movies, and it works great. The info screen in the HC5000 confirms 23.9xxx somthing input - and my eyes says thank you for totally fluid pans and movements. :)

The review says that component inputs are maximum 720p/1080i - and that you need to put your Xbox360 into 1080i or buy the new 360 version with HDMI. This is wrong. The HC 5000 happily accepts 1080p through the component input. I use this for my Xbox 360.

Well guys, just a quick update. I am now at 200 hours on low lamp mode with absolutely no dust blobs after taping the women's panty hose over the stock filter. My bulb temperature is at 64 deg C and fan mode 2. I highly recommend that you try this if you are worried about the dust blobs. This is my second HC5000 (first had dust blobs within a few hours) and I immediately did this mod at hour 1 after it was suggested by another member who had dust problems on a different LCD projector and then went 2 years with no problems after the mod. I carefully vacuum off the panty hose every 100 hours or so, with a brush type attatchment. If I eventually see the bulb temperature or fan mode rise I may need to clean the factory filter, but to be honest looking at the numbers now, I don't think much dust is making it through to the factory filter at all.

Good review. But there are a few things that I don't agree with, or think is wrong in this review.

The review states that the Mitsu hc5000 has HDMI 1.3 - I don't think this is correct. Unless the newer production runs has changed specifications.

The reviewer couldn't confirm that HC5000 supports 1080p/24 input because his Toshiba XA2 didn't have this yet... - but I can confirm that 1080p/24 works. :) I use my PS3 with 1080p/24 output for BD movies, and it works great. The info screen in the HC5000 confirms 23.9xxx somthing input - and my eyes says thank you for totally fluid pans and movements. :)

The review says that component inputs are maximum 720p/1080i - and that you need to put your Xbox360 into 1080i or buy the new 360 version with HDMI. This is wrong. The HC 5000 happily accepts 1080p through the component input. I use this for my Xbox 360.

Also he said that the scan has to be at 100%, , I believe i have read in this thread that we should leave the scan at 97% default, or is he right?

I'd set it for 100% for 1 to 1 pixels from HD-DVD/Blu-ray/Computer output across digital outputs like DVI-HDCP/HDMI. For the Xbox 360 across 1080P analog VGA or component I'd still use 100% as it looks fine that way. For over the air or tuning from a source that has edge glitches then yes I'd set it for 97%. I have nothing that requires this or looks better with 97% though.

Well guys, just a quick update. I am now at 200 hours on low lamp mode with absolutely no dust blobs after taping the women's panty hose over the stock filter. My bulb temperature is at 64 deg C and fan mode 2. I highly recommend that you try this if you are worried about the dust blobs. This is my second HC5000 (first had dust blobs within a few hours) and I immediately did this mod at hour 1 after it was suggested by another member who had dust problems on a different LCD projector and then went 2 years with no problems after the mod. I carefully vacuum off the panty hose every 100 hours or so, with a brush type attatchment. If I eventually see the bulb temperature or fan mode rise I may need to clean the factory filter, but to be honest looking at the numbers now, I don't think much dust is making it through to the factory filter at all.

Hello:

I add a piece of hose over my filter yesterday just in case. I don't have any blobs yet after about 100 hours.

Splotto

Hello:

I add a piece of hose over my filter yesterday just in case. I don't have any blobs yet after about 100 hours.

Splotto

Just watch your temperatures and fan mode and then report back to members like I am doing. It appears to be perfectly safe to me, but I want to be sure to not negatively effect the bulb life. To be honest right now I think it is actually better than letting the stock filter get dirty with dust buildup. I personally chose to do it based on the fact that my first unit got the dust blobs so quickly.

Just watch your temperatures and fan mode and then report back to members like I am doing. It appears to be perfectly safe to me, but I want to be sure to not negatively effect the bulb life. To be honest right now I think it is actually better than letting the stock filter get dirty with dust buildup. I personally chose to do it based on the fact that my first unit got the dust blobs so quickly.

I was planning on reporting back but I couldn't find on the menu where the bulb temp was reported. Is it on there or do I just need to take measurements?

Splotto

Hello:

I am very happy with my 5000 so far. The HD images are great. SD Cable is still pretty tough to watch, but thats the same on my Pio Plasma, so it's not the 5000, it's just me being spoiled.

I have my projector set up on top of a cabinet at the rear of my room about 15 feet from my screen. Overall everything is well but even after I level the 5000 and set the image to fill the screen I am still getting some keystone distortion.

Unlike standard TV's, the 5000 doesn't have a setting to adjust keystoning.

Can anyone provide some advice on how to square the picture?

Thanks,
Splotto

Hello:

Unlike standard TV's, the 5000 doesn't have a setting to adjust keystoning.

Can anyone provide some advice on how to square the picture?


Splotto - the HC5000 doesn't have keystone adjustments. You'll need to use the lens shift to move the image around the wall. The HC5000 does the keystone adjustments automatically but if you can't get the image square, you'll need to move the projector somehow to square it up.

Using the adjustable feet on the front will obviously create some keystoning that cannot be fixed. I use them only a little bit to level it up and stick to lens shift to the extent possible.

I was planning on reporting back but I couldn't find on the menu where the bulb temp was reported. Is it on there or do I just need to take measurements?

Splotto
Menu --> Feature --> Meny Position --> A.P-button(on remote) --> Enter-button --> A.P-button.

Menu --> Feature --> Meny Position --> A.P-button(on remote) --> Enter-button --> A.P-button.

Thanks. I will check it out and report back.

Just an FYI - I placed the nylon fabric behind my HC5000 filter. I used a piece that was larger then the filter and bracket and I simply attached the bracket over the nylon (locking it into place).

Splotto

Thanks. I will check it out and report back.

Just an FYI - I placed the nylon fabric behind my HC5000 filter. I used a piece that was larger then the filter and bracket and I simply attached the bracket over the nylon (locking it into place).

Splotto

I just tried the same trick and my bulb measured 72* C last night. I have never checked it before so I do not know how this compares. It is in a basement theater and the temp stays around 78* F. I am hoping this does not affect bulb life. Anyone seeing temps this high?

Hello:

I ran my 5000 from about 12 to 10 yesterday in a maddened frenzy of XBOX, PS3, Sopranos reruns and hot dog eating contests.

Over the time period the temp of the bulb was between 66 and 68 C. The fan mode was anywhere from 8 to 10 to 12.

Splotto

Has anyone stepped into this unit from a decent 720p and found going to 1080p worth it? I have a Tosh XA2 and Sharp XVZ2000 single chip DLP 720p and the picture is very good. Always wondering if going 1080p will be noticeable enough to spend the cash. Tough question to answer for sure until I actually see it in the HT.

Has anyone stepped into this unit from a decent 720p and found going to 1080p worth it? I have a Tosh XA2 and Sharp XVZ2000 single chip DLP 720p and the picture is very good. Always wondering if going 1080p will be noticeable enough to spend the cash. Tough question to answer for sure until I actually see it in the HT.

Yep, coming from Sanyo PLV-Z3 and a VP (Lumagen highest end 5 years ago, forgot model) i can tell that my Gennum based Mitsu HC5000 is a blast.

I watch on a 110" screen. More interestingly my gaming via VGA port also improved, the 2 million pixels sure help me spot my enemies from afar, little dots above the forest on the shaded side of the valley are now clearly bogeys flying NOE to target, and this gives me a fair chance, also latency is very very low, i say this because i use a TrackIR device and i constantly turn my head during DF, IL-2 1946 is my only game, or Sturmovik as we WW2 combat simmers fondly refer to it.

Hi!


I have a short question: how good is the focus with your Mitsubishi HC5000's? I have problems with mine - i.e. I cannot get the picture sharp from side to side. I have projected to the wall and turned the projector to try and ensure that it will be projecting the picture directly opposite to the wall. I had the projector in a repair and they apparently changed "lens assy" - it seems that now the problem has somewhat shifted - before the repair I had difficulties in focusing left and right sides, after the repair the problem seems to concentrate on top left and low right sections of the picture. When my projector was at repair, I got a temporary replacement HC5000 and it was fine in this regard.

Thanks for any info,


Solid_dvd

Hello:

I ran my 5000 from about 12 to 10 yesterday in a maddened frenzy of XBOX, PS3, Sopranos reruns and hot dog eating contests.

Over the time period the temp of the bulb was between 66 and 68 C. The fan mode was anywhere from 8 to 10 to 12.

Splotto

Sorry for the delay in responding but I was in the plant all last week and never checked the forum. That temperature looks good, but my unit is running a much lower fan mode at mode 0-2. Last night when I checked it it was running in mode 0. I am using low lamp mode though, not high mode. Did you install the panty hose in front of the filter behind the bracket or behind the stock filter? I think in front of it would make more sense to try and keep the stock filter clean. I may modify my setup to remove the ugly duct tape holding the panty hose in place.

Funny thing is I am using this projector so much it is not funny. I already have 400 hours in low lamp mode on the second unit since the end of May and had almost 100 hours on the first unit with the dust blobs before I got authorization to return it. I am gaming on it with my Xbox 360 almost every night. I also went out and bought a kick butt new HT theater computer with Core 2 Duo 6420 processor and Vista and now I boot it up in like 5 seconds from sleep mode and watch the evening news clips. I installed a network print server so I could print from the new PC and now use the computer in the HT almost exclusively for everything. I guess 400+ hours with no dust blobs is a great thing. It appears to be an incredibly simple solution to a pain in the butt problem.

Sorry for the delay in responding but I was in the plant all last week and never checked the forum. That temperature looks good, but my unit is running a much lower fan mode at mode 0-2. Last night when I checked it it was running in mode 0. I am using low lamp mode though, not high mode. Did you install the panty hose in front of the filter behind the bracket or behind the stock filter? I think in front of it would make more sense to try and keep the stock filter clean. I may modify my setup to remove the ugly duct tape holding the panty hose in place.

Funny thing is I am using this projector so much it is not funny. I already have 400 hours in low lamp mode on the second unit since the end of May and had almost 100 hours on the first unit with the dust blobs before I got authorization to return it. I am gaming on it with my Xbox 360 almost every night. I also went out and bought a kick butt new HT theater computer with Core 2 Duo 6420 processor and Vista and now I boot it up in like 5 seconds from sleep mode and watch the evening news clips. I installed a network print server so I could print from the new PC and now use the computer in the HT almost exclusively for everything. I guess 400+ hours with no dust blobs is a great thing. It appears to be an incredibly simple solution to a pain in the butt problem.

Hello:

I have the hose behind the grill and the filter....I really just closed closed the grill over a piece of hose.

Splotto

Just Saying Hello and thank everyone here in AVS. I have had my HC5000U for about 3 weeks now and just yesterday figured out how to get 1080i out of my receiver form my inputs. All I can Say "WOW" this PJ has a great picture. I chose it over the Pearl and Epson1080 for the sharpness of the picture. My Theater has only been done for month now and I wonder why I waited so long to finish my basement ( Started 2.11.07 )

Can anyone that's sent in their Mits tell me how long the turn around is? how long did it take for them to service it to remove the dust blobs and flash firmware etc. then get it back to you?

Can anyone that's sent in their Mits tell me how long the turn around is? how long did it take for them to service it to remove the dust blobs and flash firmware etc. then get it back to you?

Since I live in socal I took my projector to Mits this last Monday in the afternoon, I was informed by a tech later that the firmware v4.0 upgrade is only for the Japanese model. It was cleaned and shipped back to me on Thursday via FedEx arriving Friday.

I too have upgraded the filter since receiving the projector back.

Cool thanks, a week of downtime doesn't sound bad at all. =)

Just Saying Hello and thank everyone here in AVS. I have had my HC5000U for about 3 weeks now and just yesterday figured out how to get 1080i out of my receiver form my inputs. All I can Say "WOW" this PJ has a great picture. I chose it over the Pearl and Epson1080 for the sharpness of the picture. My Theater has only been done for month now and I wonder why I waited so long to finish my basement ( Started 2.11.07 )

If you have pictures posted online, you should add the link to your signature so we can see your handywork.

I too love the Mitsubishi and don't really care if something better is out there for almost $2K more. To me it is the best picture quality / $ ratio.

I was informed by a tech later that the firmware v4.0 upgrade is only for the Japanese model

??? Japanese model only? lol...

My HC5000 was in repair too for the last three weeks. Got a new motherboard, new lamp, they cleaned the lenses, removed the dust blobs AND flashed to new firmware v4.0!

My HC5000 is a european one, not a japanese. So there is a new firmware, of course. And not only for the japanese version.

Yeah, the tech told me the FW was only for the white one, so I kinda added the FW being Japanese only sorry if I mixed things up. He didn't give me a reason, just told me we might get it in the future (HC5000BL).

I wish I could find some pics from the earl stages of construction, I had them on my computer at work ( Over 1.5 gigs ) all gone, our IT guy said that there is nothing he could do to retrieve them. Yesterday I checked my home computer and found some pictures from before the carpet went down. I will try to get some pics soon.

My 5000 is mounted to the ceiling about 14' from a Da-lite 106" seating is also at 14'. The PJ gets its signal from PE vsx -84tsxi ( Everything up-scaled to 1920 X 1080i ). I also have 2 T.W. HD-DVR SA 8300, one is in the Home Theater \ Game room \ Bar area ( Bar and Gamer oom to come ). The other one is the living room hooked up to a Samsung 42" Plasma ( I love this Plasma ). All of the speakers are in wall's ( 7.1 ) and I have 2 subs. I am still in the learning stages when it comes to all my new AV toys. I bought a Harmony 880 to control everything and haven't even taken it out of the box yet, My wife hates seeing 5 remotes sitting on the ottoman.

Could someone please post how to find what the firm ware ver. is and how to look at the fan mode. This thing is so quite you don't even know it's hanging there. I have about 82 hours in low lamp mode to date.

What does the Enhancement \ Normal function actually do? I like the darker picture I get when I set it to normal.

You go to I believe the third tab after hitting the menu (it might be the second) but you need to go down to the menu position setting choice. While on that setting, just hit A.P., Enter, A.P. on the remote and the additional menu with fan mode, firmware revision will pop up. I hope I didn't screw this up from memory as I do it so much now I don't think about it much.

Is anybody planning to have the Cine4home mod done to their projector?

I'm more curious to know if Mitsubishi will add the Cine4Home mods to new iterations of the HC5000.

I'm more curious to know if Mitsubishi will add the Cine4Home mods to new iterations of the HC5000.

It would be interesting, but it would require significant r & d and engineering to make themselves a production unit like that. Not that they cannot do it, but serious decisions would have to be made and then they'd have to do design stuff etc. Can they do it in time for the next model generation?

I wonder if the ultra-HC5000 is like the unit's which had both the manual AND auto-iris like the Hitachi TX200/300 etc?

It would be interesting, but it would require significant r & d and engineering to make themselves a production unit like that. Not that they cannot do it, but serious decisions would have to be made and then they'd have to do design stuff etc. Can they do it in time for the next model generation?

I wonder if the ultra-HC5000 is like the unit's which had both the manual AND auto-iris like the Hitachi TX200/300 etc?


Seems like Ekkehart and his crew have already done the research. Mits needs to do the development and most of that has been done by Ekkehart. Mits had a few months head start already.

Seems like Ekkehart and his crew have already done the research. Mits needs to do the development and most of that has been done by Ekkehart. Mits had a few months head start already.

Fair enough. Well, the mod can't come soon enough. A nice sharp 1080p projector with very high contrast and ultra-low black levels would be awesome.

I have a problem that has developed in the past week with my Mits 5000.

When I start thr PJ with the remote, the green LED's go on, but there is no output/image on the screen after a few minutes.

I then shut down the PJ with the remote, even though no info appears on the screen, and wait for it to cool off and shut down.

Then I start it up again after shut down, and it fires up normally with a projected image.

Anyone having a similar problem or have any ideas?

Whats a better projector SONY VPL-VW50 or the Mitsu 5000?

mitsu 5k

hey Dallas777,

maybe you should change your sig from Blu-Ray to HD-DVD ???

Anyone know anything about this model:

Mitsu 4900 (http://www.circuitcity.com/ssm/Mitsubishi-Home-Theater-Projector-HC4900/sem/rpsm/oid/185877/catOid/-17221/rpem/ccd/productDetail.do)

Check out cine4home. Today's news is the new HC6000 and HC4900.

The 6000 gets redesigned optics with what looks to be an adjustable iris for 12k:1 max contrast and 2 HDMI 1.3 inputs.

The 4900 is a stripped down HC5000 without HQV.

I'll be interested what the pricing will be on the 6000 as this may be my next pj.

Anyone know anything about this model:

Mitsu 4900 (http://www.circuitcity.com/ssm/Mitsubishi-Home-Theater-Projector-HC4900/sem/rpsm/oid/185877/catOid/-17221/rpem/ccd/productDetail.do)

Wow that was fast for CC to post since this is just today's news. The 4900 appears to be the same as the 5000 without HQV based on the cine4home article.

Wow that was fast for CC to post since this is just today's news. The 4900 appears to be the same as the 5000 without HQV based on the cine4home article.

I actually saw it a couple days ago, I was poking around looking at BenQ W9000 prices and was surprised to see CC offering it...so I checked on their other PJs and noticed the new Mitsu. Had forgotten about it until I read your other thread.

Check out cine4home. Today's news is the new HC6000 and HC4900.

...post the link?
please.

acta.

...post the link?
please.

acta.

www.cine4home.de

I have a problem that has developed in the past week with my Mits 5000.

When I start thr PJ with the remote, the green LED's go on, but there is no output/image on the screen after a few minutes.

I then shut down the PJ with the remote, even though no info appears on the screen, and wait for it to cool off and shut down.

Then I start it up again after shut down, and it fires up normally with a projected image.

Anyone having a similar problem or have any ideas?


Aw Shoot!

Last night it took 6 tries to start up.

So I just called Mits.

They just told me to fedex to their Irvive, CA service center, and I should get it back in a week.

Anything else I should ask for while it's there besides the new firmware and the cine4home updates???

Only kiddin' about the latter one......

Don't expect too much from the service - I sent my HC5000 in to deal with the dust blob issue and they fixed it, but there was no firmware upgrade (still 3.0). I think the 4.0 is for japan/europe or the "white" version only. Or the service people didn't know about the udpate and just neglected to do it. . . .

Am very curious about C4H's mod, if there ever is a viable US-based option for doing it, or the HC6000, though . . . . time for a new thread?

I'm hoping for a review of the HC6000 by Cine4Home. I'm curious if the auto iris has been improved and if any other improvements have been incorporated into the HC6000. I suspect we'll know a lot more by next month.

I'm hoping for a review of the HC6000 by Cine4Home. I'm curious if the auto iris has been improved and if any other improvements have been incorporated into the HC6000. I suspect we'll know a lot more by next month.

The preliminary news indicated reworked optics and a variable iris that is aimed to eliminate the complaints generated from the 5000.....we'll soon see though.

I thought I read some where that the max resolution on the VGA input was 1280x1024. I can't find where I read that though... Can anyone confirm the highest resolution they can use when hooking a pc over vga or dvi?

Thanks!

BTW - Does anyone know why the Hc5000 does not let you do any image quality adjustment (using the Reon processor) with a 1080p signal? All the options are greyed out when inputing an 1080p signal. Is there anyway around that?

Some of my bluray discs are not mastered that well and could do with some adjustments. Also, I use a PS3 for upconversion of SDDVD to 1080p and would like to "fix" the noise and crud in the image using the HC5000's processor, as the PS3's image quality adjustment isn't that good. I could leave the signal at 480p/i and still use the HC5000's adjustments, but I'm wondering if there's a way to do it with a 1080p signal. Thx.

BTW - Does anyone know why the Hc5000 does not let you do any image quality adjustment (using the Reon processor) with a 1080p signal? All the options are greyed out when inputing an 1080p signal. Is there anyway around that?

Some of my bluray discs are not mastered that well and could do with some adjustments. Also, I use a PS3 for upconversion of SDDVD to 1080p and would like to "fix" the noise and crud in the image using the HC5000's processor, as the PS3's image quality adjustment isn't that good. I could leave the signal at 480p/i and still use the HC5000's adjustments, but I'm wondering if there's a way to do it with a 1080p signal. Thx.


The Reon video processor is the downscale version of the Realta and I suspect Mitsubishi used the same software but removed the user options to fine tune the video image.

I thought I read some where that the max resolution on the VGA input was 1280x1024. I can't find where I read that though... Can anyone confirm the highest resolution they can use when hooking a pc over vga or dvi?

Thanks!

Nope 1920x1080 works just fine over Vga.

The preliminary news indicated reworked optics and a variable iris that is aimed to eliminate the complaints generated from the 5000.....we'll soon see though.


That would be good news but I'm also interested in whether Mitsubishi also added the option of manually closing the iris similar to what is available in the Optoma HD80. The HD80 allows it's iris to be manually closed to various settings which would enhance black levels.

Isn't that exactly what the variable iris mentioned above is supposed to do?

I thought I read some where that the max resolution on the VGA input was 1280x1024. I can't find where I read that though... Can anyone confirm the highest resolution they can use when hooking a pc over vga or dvi?

Thanks!

1080p VGA works fine with my XBox360. But it was a bit dark (probably due to adaptors to fit the XBox VGA cable to my long VGA cable run). But a tweak of the VGA clamp/width settings fixed the darkness problem.

An HC6000 sounds like an Ultra HC5000. Let's hope it works similarly to what we saw the cine4home modded unit do. Super high native contrast and low black levels and sharp picture. If the Mitsubishi can also do the vertical stretch, that would be the icing on the cake :)

The Reon video processor is the downscale version of the Realta and I suspect Mitsubishi used the same software but removed the user options to fine tune the video image.

FWIW, the Realta doesn't offer anything above the Reon that end-users would be interested in for a basic scalar. It's essentially the same de-interlacer, scalar, and de-noiser.

Isn't that exactly what the variable iris mentioned above is supposed to do?


Not necessarily. A variable iris could also be an auto iris which changes with the scenery whereas a manual iris can be set for a certain opening and locked in place.

Yeah, not sure what they mean. If it isn't a manual iris as good as the cine4home Ultra HC5000 then that would be a let down.

Isn't that exactly what the variable iris mentioned above is supposed to do?


Here's ProjectorCentral's review of the Optoma HD80. Read the third paragraph of the Performance section. It tells how the manual iris can be used:

http://www.projectorcentral.com/optoma_hd80_projector_review.htm

I rechecked the cine4home article.
They only talk about improvements to the auto iris. No mention of any new(manual) iris. :(

So, I "imported" mine from Japan on March 3, 2007. I note three dust blobs only when the screen is black. How do I get this fixed? Do I contact the guys in Japan, can I mail it into Mitsubishi US? Do I get a can of air and try to free them? Do I risk taking it apart?

I rechecked the cine4home article.
They only talk about improvements to the auto iris. No mention of any new(manual) iris. :(


If Mitsubishi managed to improve the HC6000's auto iris so it works as well as the Sony Pearl then it's a huge upgrade.

So, I "imported" mine from Japan on March 3, 2007. I note three dust blobs only when the screen is black. How do I get this fixed? Do I contact the guys in Japan, can I mail it into Mitsubishi US? Do I get a can of air and try to free them? Do I risk taking it apart?

Do NOT, I repeat, do NOT try to fix this one. I "imported" mine too and after trying to open and clean the projector for dust blobs (and in the process damaging the main board), eventually had to wait 2 months for it to be repaired. Remember, once the cover is off, even Mits Japan won't touch it.

Mitsubishi in the US are unlikely to repair under warranty (if they're anything like Mitsubishi Australia) but if you contact the dealer (and there's only one I can think you could have used for your purchase ;) they should be able to help get this sorted. If you were smart or lucky, you would have taken the cheap return to base shipping option. I didn't and it cost me about USD$1.2K and over 2 months wait for repairs by authorised Mits repairers here in Australia.

Yes, I know how frustrating it is to have your new projector only for it to play up like this so soon. Mine lasted a few weeks before the dust blob problem. In fact, I only just got the projector back today, with new firmware (4.0), all Japanese menus (can't be changed as new firmware detects that the unit is Japanese) and dust problem gone. I've now installed my wife's stocking over the air intake vent to try to minimise further problems...

I think it is important to stress that everyone who has added the panty hose to cover the stock filter so far has not had one problem with dust blobs and no negative impact to airflow that can be measured looking at the internal thermal couple temperatures and fan modes. This is a very simple fix to a very big pain in the butt problem. You would think with all the technology employed in these projectors that you would see some filter design beyond a very thin expanded piece of foam. I am now up to almost 4 months and 500 hours blob free. Obviously do this at your own risk, but IMHO the risk is very, very low if you clean the hose once every two months or so.

I think it is important to stress that everyone who has added the panty hose to cover the stock filter so far has not had one problem with dust blobs and no negative impact to airflow that can be measured looking at the internal thermal couple temperatures and fan modes. This is a very simple fix to a very big pain in the butt problem. You would think with all the technology employed in these projectors that you would see some filter design beyond a very thin expanded piece of foam. I am now up to almost 4 months and 500 hours blob free. Obviously do this at your own risk, but IMHO the risk is very, very low if you clean the hose once every two months or so.

I can second that. Mine is running just fine with no blob issues (yet).

Splotto

Here are a couple of pics of my " Man Cave ". Started 2.11.07 finished 6.27.07.
HC5000, VSX-84, SA8300HD, Oppo 981HD, Harmony 880 and Speakers 7.1 all in wall MTX: MTM for LRC, 8"Round for 5.1 and 7.1 and of course 2 subs: 1 15" w/250 watts and 1 12" w/500 watts MKIII. All speakers are from Parts Express. Not the best speakers in the world but good for starters. Except for the MKIII it is a very nice sub.

Djstinger

Can you take a close up picture of how you have the filter set up ??

Thanks

Sorry for the POOR picture Quality I had to set camera to the lowest setting to be able to down load. I will try to focus on the filter area, I just put the filter in a pair of PH and cut the ends so that I have 3 layers of protection, tucked it around the edges and put it back in place.

Oh ya, I forgot to mention that the projector is mounted about 14' from a 106" Da-Lite. Would I get a better picture if I moved the PJ closer to the screen? If I mount the PJ as close has I can the lens would be about 12' or 2 ' closer.

Here is a picture of the my filter mod and a quick shot of Golf in 1080i.

Thanks !!

Now that I've got my projector back from a clean and repair, I've started calibrating it and noticed that I'm having a real problem with a greenish hue to whites and skin tone. I'm using DVE and an Oppo 970 and according to DVE, I've got contrast and brightness correct along with red, green and blue color using the colour filter that comes with DVE.

Animations color schemes look great but normal movies look average. So I guess that's a greyscale problem, correct? And if so, how to fix without the benefit of nearby ISF technician or calibration hardware?

Secondly, I've noticed that the projector sometimes creates "ghosting" when testing the DVE SMPTE 133 Resolution test. It doesn't happen every time but is very noticeable. I've tried multiple DVD players and both HDMI and component with similar results. The Sharpness setting on the Mits is set at -10 and disabled on the Oppo and other DVD players so it's definitely not edge enhancement.

Anyone noticed similar things or suggestions to either of these issues?

I just received my projector back from Mit. They replaced the fan in it since I was hearing a rattling noise. This fixed the rattling noise but I think they may have caused another issue. I sat down to watch a movie on it last night, number 23, and I noticed that there was almost no shadow detail in the picture at all. Everything looks dark. So I thought that I may need to adjust the picture and I put in my Avia disc. Everything was fine until I got to the brightness adjustment section. When Avia displayed the black screen with the two lighter shaded black bars I could not see the black bars. No matter how much I adjusted the brightness. The black screen would get brighter and darker but there was no black bar. I have my DVD player set up to send the projector a 480P signal over a HDMI/DVI cable. I send the signal at 480P so I can take advantage of the on board processor of the Mit HC5000. I changed the output signal to 720P and 1080i and the black bars appeared. I also notice comparing the same since from a movie with 480P, 720P and 1080i output that there was no shadow detail when using the 480P signal. Has anyone else ever had this problem? Can someone confirm that they can see the black bars in Avia using a HDMI cable and a 480P signal from a DVD player? I want to make sure I didn’t miss something before I call Mit. tomorrow and ask for a replacement.

You know what, I too have trouble with the 480p signal being way too dark no matter what I do (exactly as you describe above), but coming from a PS3. If I turn on the PS3's internal upconversion, then the 1080p signal doesn't let me use the HC5000's great HQV chip and picture improvement functions (and the PS3s is not all great). If I leave upconversion off, the PS3 only sends out a 480p (no 480i, why?!?) and the picture is darker without shadow detail by comparison. Adjusting brightness, contrast, "ehanced/normal" signal and everything else seems to have little to no effect. I thoguht the problem was with the PS3, but if you're having the same issue with another DVD problem, then . . . Other thoughts? I find this the most annoying thing with this projector, which I otherwise love. . .

Have you guys tried the "setup" adjustment?

HDMI 1920x1080x60hz and 1920x1080x24 works fine
DVI 1920x1080x60hz and 1920x1080x24 works fine
VGA 1920x1080x60hz works fine from xbox 360 haven't tested 24hz

Thanks for the replies but I did figure my problem out last nigh. When Mit. sent me my projector back they reset all the options in the menus. There is an option labeled setup that was set to auto. When I turned this option off everything worked fine. I can now see the bars in the Avia disc at 480P and the picture is no longer dark.

I'll try that too. I've adjusted it in the past, but left it on Auto last time I checked. . .

I read elsewhere that setup crushes blacks, so I have had mine off since I first set it up, so that makes sense if it was in auto.

Now that I've got my projector back from a clean and repair, I've started calibrating it and noticed that I'm having a real problem with a greenish hue to whites and skin tone. I'm using DVE and an Oppo 970 and according to DVE, I've got contrast and brightness correct along with red, green and blue color using the colour filter that comes with DVE.

Animations color schemes look great but normal movies look average. So I guess that's a greyscale problem, correct? And if so, how to fix without the benefit of nearby ISF technician or calibration hardware?

Secondly, I've noticed that the projector sometimes creates "ghosting" when testing the DVE SMPTE 133 Resolution test. It doesn't happen every time but is very noticeable. I've tried multiple DVD players and both HDMI and component with similar results. The Sharpness setting on the Mits is set at -10 and disabled on the Oppo and other DVD players so it's definitely not edge enhancement.

Anyone noticed similar things or suggestions to either of these issues?

I can't help you with the second problem, but the first is easy to fix. I purchased the Get Gray disk by downloading it and then purchased a Spyder Express software packaged from Comp. USA. for around $60. I then installed the free HCFR program available off this forum and did a greyscale calibration using the spyder colorimeter from the express package. It made a huge difference for me and my color temperature and RGB curves are very flat now around 6500K.

did a greyscale calibration using the spyder colorimeter from the express package. It made a huge difference for me and my color temperature and RGB curves are very flat now around 6500K.

Thanks Cherokee - what settings did you end up with in the end? Did you have to adjust the Gamma RGB settings or did you just adjust brightness/contrast/color/tint?

I just received my projector back from Mit. They replaced the fan in it since I was hearing a rattling noise. This fixed the rattling noise but I think they may have caused another issue. I sat down to watch a movie on it last night, number 23, and I noticed that there was almost no shadow detail in the picture at all. Everything looks dark. So I thought that I may need to adjust the picture and I put in my Avia disc. Everything was fine until I got to the brightness adjustment section. When Avia displayed the black screen with the two lighter shaded black bars I could not see the black bars. No matter how much I adjusted the brightness. The black screen would get brighter and darker but there was no black bar. I have my DVD player set up to send the projector a 480P signal over a HDMI/DVI cable. I send the signal at 480P so I can take advantage of the on board processor of the Mit HC5000. I changed the output signal to 720P and 1080i and the black bars appeared. I also notice comparing the same since from a movie with 480P, 720P and 1080i output that there was no shadow detail when using the 480P signal. Has anyone else ever had this problem? Can someone confirm that they can see the black bars in Avia using a HDMI cable and a 480P signal from a DVD player? I want to make sure I didn’t miss something before I call Mit. tomorrow and ask for a replacement.

I think you should opt to use 480i instead of 480p based on your stated strategy. By using 480p, your are deinterlacing in the DVD player and then scaling in the projector. One of the strengths of the Silicon Optix chip is the deinterlacing capability. Let us know if you see a difference.

I think you should opt to use 480i instead of 480p based on your stated strategy. By using 480p, your are deinterlacing in the DVD player and then scaling in the projector. One of the strengths of the Silicon Optix chip is the deinterlacing capability. Let us know if you see a difference.


David is right, was just gone say this, 480i is the way to go.

Well, my InFocus SP7200 bit the dust after only 1000 hours (power supply). Just a bit premature! And of course, only about 100 hours after having to prematurely replace the bulb at ~850 hours. Anybody want to buy a bulb??

Anyway, after negotiating with my better half, I found myself with a budget of $3000 and the desire for a quieter, longer bulb-life, 1080p projector with better black level and contrast ratio.

After a little rearch, I realized that there weren't a ton of choices in my range. Despite being a DLP fan, I quickly eliminated the optoma HD8x for fan noise and reported iris issues. The BenQ units are also reportedly loud and I didn't like the idea of a manual Iris. That left me with the Epson, The Mits, and the Pearl (couple hundred over budget, but close enough).

I was able to see all of these projectors at 2 different area stores. My immediate thought when out shopping was, I wish I had the coin for the JVC RS-1! The black level and contrast really did impress.

The Mits was razor sharp and really quiet and I love the 5000 hour low lamp mode.

The Epson looked pretty good, but just didn't seem like it had quite the same contrast/sharpness/something as the Mits. And the Mits had nearly 5000 hours on the floor unit!!!

The Pearl looked soft to me as everyone else comments. I use my projector a lot in computer mode too. It just wasn't sharp enough for me.

I did a more detailed spec analysis that helped support what I was seeing and ordered the Mits. I've had it running for a total of about 20 hours and am pretty happy so far. Definite improvement over my 4 or 5 year old InFocus SP7200, but technology doesn't sit still for that long.

I've been doing some comparison between the scaler in my Denon 4806CI and the Mits on-board Silicon Optix deinterlace/scaler, but haven't come to any firm conclusions yet.

I'm thoroughly impressed by 1080p from PS3, both Blu-Ray and games!!! I watched 300 and was emersed.

I will say that everyone has me a bit worried about these so-called dust-blobs. I'm also worried about discoloration of the LCD panels over time. Lets hope the new inorganic panels don't have the same degrading effects of the organic panels.

Any links or sources to service menus anyone knows about?

Oh, and my projector shipped with the 4.0 firmware (in English).

Regards,
Dave

David is right, was just gone say this, 480i is the way to go.

So everything being fed into the HC5000 should be set at 480i ? I have a PS3, Xbox 360 and Dish 622. Should I set all of them to 480i and let the HC5000 do the work.

It's not better to leave the Blu-Ray and HD-Dvd at their native 1080p ?

I think you should opt to use 480i instead of 480p based on your stated strategy. By using 480p, your are deinterlacing in the DVD player and then scaling in the projector. One of the strengths of the Silicon Optix chip is the deinterlacing capability. Let us know if you see a difference.
I wish i could send 480i to the projector. My DVD player only sends 480P, 720P and 1080i over HDMI cables. The only way i could send it a 480i signal is through component cable and i opted to use the HDMI cables. I know there are DVD players out there that support 480i over HDMI, but i have been holding out on purchasing a new player. I am waiting to see if one of the two new HD formats would win the war, blueray or HD-DVD. It looks like i may be waiting a long time.

Hey Dave,

Can you share some screenshots of the Mits using the computer input? I'd love to see how defined the desktop is displayed. I suppose its razor sharp?

Thanx,
Dr V

So everything being fed into the HC5000 should be set at 480i ? I have a PS3, Xbox 360 and Dish 622. Should I set all of them to 480i and let the HC5000 do the work.

It's not better to leave the Blu-Ray and HD-Dvd at their native 1080p ?


Yes leave hidef devices outptting at 1080P and set it your SD devices to output 480i and let projector deinterlace/upscale the SD material.

So everything being fed into the HC5000 should be set at 480i ? I have a PS3, Xbox 360 and Dish 622. Should I set all of them to 480i and let the HC5000 do the work.

It's not better to leave the Blu-Ray and HD-Dvd at their native 1080p ?


The answer is that it depends on the source material. If your watching standard definition cable or satellite TV or DVD then yes, use 480i into the projector.

If the source is 720p, 1080i, or 1080p, and you have the option to do so, send the projector the unaltered source format. This is not always convenient or possible depending on your equipment though.

Example, you certainly don't want to downscale and/or interlace quality source material, just so that you can torture the projector with trying to rebuild it. Information is lost along the way so the final image can not be as good!!!

Hey Dave,

Can you share some screenshots of the Mits using the computer input? I'd love to see how defined the desktop is displayed. I suppose its razor sharp?

Thanx,
Dr V


I would love to, but sorry, no. For one, I am on business travel right now. Secondly, the file would have to be quite large to reveal the actual resolution and I don't think I have a way to upload a 8MP image.

My first row of seeting is at about 10 feet. With my HTPC set at 1080p, I can sit in the front row and read the forum, but the text size is borderline on my 106" diagonal screen. My eyes began to fatigue after a while.

It is important that you focus the lens very carefully to maximize the text detail. I can honestly say that at 106", with this level of focus, I would not want to sit any closer to the screen than about 8 feet or you will begin to notice the Screen Door Effect. Ever slightly defocused, the SDE quickly diminishes to where you have to get very close to see it, but you will sacrifice the finest details. I love the digital focus!!!!!! My only complaint is that Mitsubishi should provide some relative point of reference to help tweak it to max.










'

I would love to, but sorry, no. For one, I am on business travel right now. Secondly, the file would have to be quite large to reveal the actual resolution and I don't think I have a way to upload a 8MP image.

My first row of seeting is at about 10 feet. With my HTPC set at 1080p, I can sit in the front row and read the forum, but the text size is borderline on my 106" diagonal screen. My eyes began to fatigue after a while.

It is important that you focus the lens very carefully to maximize the text detail. I can honestly say that at 106", with this level of focus, I would not want to sit any closer to the screen than about 8 feet or you will begin to notice the Screen Door Effect. Ever slightly defocused, the SDE quickly diminishes to where you have to get very close to see it, but you will sacrifice the finest details. I love the digital focus!!!!!! My only complaint is that Mitsubishi should provide some relative point of reference to help tweak it to max.
'

A resized/compressed JPEG would have given me an idea what it looks like and be no more than 500k. A closeup shot of the pixel structure would even have sufficed. I wasn't asking for an 8MP picture of a 2MP screen. :p No biggie, you aren't home anyways.

Thanks for elaborating on your experience tho! I'll be sitting no closer than 12ft. from a 125" screen. Probably more use in the 14ft bar range. I'm just a little worried that the desktop will be unreadable from 14 feet with a 1920x1080 desktop of 125" In which case, I may be better off with a 720p projector and pocket $2k for future prospects of 3 chip DLP.

Thanx,
Dr V

For those of you who sent there 5000 to Mit for dust blob issues...

How long was the turn around time to get the projector back ??

So everything being fed into the HC5000 should be set at 480i ? I have a PS3, Xbox 360 and Dish 622. Should I set all of them to 480i and let the HC5000 do the work.

It's not better to leave the Blu-Ray and HD-Dvd at their native 1080p ?

I have my PS3 set on Forced 1080p/24, that way there is no transfer , it is straight from the disc

So, the HC5000 went back to Mits for a second time to fix more dust blobs. . . this time they said they'd pay for shipping and upgrade the firmware to 4.0 (why they didn't do this last time, I don't know). This hopefully should kill the dust blobs for good . . . hopefully. . . .

So, the HC5000 went back to Mits for a second time to fix more dust blobs. . . this time they said they'd pay for shipping and upgrade the firmware to 4.0 (why they didn't do this last time, I don't know). This hopefully should kill the dust blobs for good . . . hopefully. . . .

Didn't you take the precaution of adding a nylon stocking filter over the factory filter? Or did your second Mits already have the dust blob when it came back from the factory? :(

I did do the precautions - nylon stocking was installed. I think there was residual dust when they sent it back to me b/c the dust blob was noticeable within the first 48 hours of getting it back. I really - really - do hope firmware 4.0 fixes this problem, because I otherwise really like this projector. . .

BTW - the rep also said there was no HC6000 projector in the works or otherwise - vaporware at best. Unclear if he's right, given the other sources, but we'll likely see at CEDIA. . .

I did do the precautions - nylon stocking was installed. I think there was residual dust when they sent it back to me b/c the dust blob was noticeable within the first 48 hours of getting it back. I really - really - do hope firmware 4.0 fixes this problem, because I otherwise really like this projector. . .

BTW - the rep also said there was no HC6000 projector in the works or otherwise - vaporware at best. Unclear if he's right, given the other sources, but we'll likely see at CEDIA. . .


If your rep is correct then Ekkehart, Cine4Home and the European Sony reps are lying? I think your rep wants to sell as many HC5000s before the HC6000s show up.

Very possible someone's mistaken, but, again, CEDIA will clear everything up. The rep seemed a bit exasperated when I asked, like he'd heard it before and was a bit tired of quashing the rumor. . .