View Full Version : Mitsubishi HC5000 (aka HC5000BL) 1080p LCD MSRP $4,495
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hoodoodj 08-21-07, 09:45 PM Sent my 2nd 5000 back to Mit to take care of the Dust Blob again. First one was replace becuase it was within the 30 days. I noted on the RMA to take care of the dust blob and upgrade firmware per the tech I spoke to on the phone. I mailed it out yesterday overnight. I received a call tonight from the Mit tech working on the projector and he stated my projector already had the latest firmware and he will take care of the dust blob. I told him the I thought the new firmware was going to take care of the dust blob issue and he stated it should. My thoughts are maybe the dust was there from the factory. Hopefully that was the case. He also stated the it should get mailed back out tomorrow. So far Mits tech support have been pretty good.
The nylon stocking will be installed this time. Other then the dust blob the projector has been great !!
Grubert 08-22-07, 10:16 AM HC6000 confirmed by Watch Impress (via engadget (http://www.engadgethd.com/2007/08/22/mitsubishis-lvp-hc6000-3lcd-projector-throws-1080p-at-19db/)).
Available late September.
Price 350,000 yen.
SPLawren 08-22-07, 11:34 AM Nice - seems pretty heavily confirmed for vaporware. Lower brightness (somewhat?), but better contrast at a lower intro price. . . hmmm.
Kanowsky 08-22-07, 11:39 AM To all HC5000 owners.
First of all I want to apologise if the answer to my question was already given.
It's to hard to check this whole thread, may be a I've missed something.
I watched Mits HC5000 with input from PS3 with 1080p/24 activated.
Vertical frequency was shown as 23.97 HZ in info menu and it seemed to me that there was a small judder while panning scenes.
Comparing to 24fps -> 60fps with 3:2 pulldown HC5000 surely supports and outputs 1080p/24 but isn't vertical frequency is too small so resulting to micro judder?
Shouldn't it be 48/72/96 Hz ???
Unfortunately I don't own this device and didn't have enough time testing all menu settings, but I'm thinking about purchasing it, so please give me some hints what refresh rate should be shown in INFO menu when 1080p/24 is connected. Maybe I should fix something in settings?
Thanks in advance.
Very possible someone's mistaken, but, again, CEDIA will clear everything up. The rep seemed a bit exasperated when I asked, like he'd heard it before and was a bit tired of quashing the rumor. . .
These reps, so damn desperate to preserve the sales of existing product that they will flatly lie. This not someone I would trust with anything, including my business, in the future. No only does it exist, but the marketing materials are all done and out there on the web. Truly sad.
octogon 08-22-07, 12:41 PM To all HC5000 owners.
First of all I want to apologise if the answer to my question was already given.
It's to hard to check this whole thread, may be a I've missed something.
I watched Mits HC5000 with input from PS3 with 1080p/24 activated.
Vertical frequency was shown as 23.97 HZ in info menu and it seemed to me that there was a small judder while panning scenes.
Comparing to 24fps -> 60fps with 3:2 pulldown HC5000 surely supports and outputs 1080p/24 but isn't vertical frequency is too small so resulting to micro judder?
Shouldn't it be 48/72/96 Hz ???
Unfortunately I don't own this device and didn't have enough time testing all menu settings, but I'm thinking about purchasing it, so please give me some hints what refresh rate should be shown in INFO menu when 1080p/24 is connected. Maybe I should fix something in settings?
Thanks in advance.
I have read in another post that Mits display it at 48hz
Woof Woof 08-22-07, 11:59 PM I watched Mits HC5000 with input from PS3 with 1080p/24 activated.
Vertical frequency was shown as 23.97 HZ in info menu and it seemed to me that there was a small judder while panning scenes.
Comparing to 24fps -> 60fps with 3:2 pulldown HC5000 surely supports and outputs 1080p/24 but isn't vertical frequency is too small so resulting to micro judder?
With fixed panel displays (vs CRT refresh), the doubling of framerate or even tripling makes no difference IMHO.
I upgraded from the HC5000 to the JVC HD1 and while the HD1 reports it as 47.x Hz (double of 23.97 I think), it is IMHO the same smoothness.
For me, it is the fluidity and smoothness of panning shots that is the big winner.
Kanowsky 08-23-07, 01:45 AM octogon,
Woof Woof,
Thank you, guys for your replies concerning my question.
Guess, I will try to check this device again and try to concentrate on panning scenes.
Djstinger 08-24-07, 03:13 PM Kano,Octo,
Here is a pic of the Vert./Horz. Freq. that my PJ sees when I turn on my ps3 Is this normal?
I just got the ps3 2 days ago and did the v1.9 update last night. I have not set it to 1080p/24 output yet. The ps3 upconverts SD dvds to 1080p better than the 981HD IMO ( I sold the 981 last weekend to a friend ) don't get me wrong the 981 is a great player and I would recommend it to anyone. I can't wait to watch a BD on the ps3.
hoodoodj 08-24-07, 05:09 PM Got my projector back today from Mits .. Sent it overnight on Monday and had back on Friday by 10 am.. Great turn around time !!! I ask the tech if I had the latest firmware why did I get a dust blob here is his response
"This projector may have picked up dust in the optical engine that went on the lcd panels at a later time. LCD projectors don't have a sealed optical engine, therefore they are always at risk of getting dust on the panels. Sometimes projectors may collect dust on the top of the bottom of the units, depending on how it is mounted, this dust can get into the optical engine and cause a problem. Make sure you keep your HC5000 clean from dust build up and you should be fine"
He also suggested getting a air purifier and did not recommend the nylon stocking fix... But from what I have been reading no one is having issues or dust blobs with the nylon stocking fix
Does anyone have air purifier in there home theater ??
Kanowsky 08-25-07, 03:28 AM Kano,Octo,
Here is a pic of the Vert./Horz. Freq. that my PJ sees when I turn on my ps3 Is this normal?
Djstinger,
Thank you for not being lazy and providing a picture of your INFO display:)
I guess, you should activate 1080p/24 output in your PS3 via settings, because when vertical frequency is shown as 59.94 it means PJ does a 3:2 pulldown causing motion judder. Vertical refresh rate should be multiple to 24 (24/48/72/96).
Try to activate 1080p/24 output - it should be very simple in settings.
Unfortunately I can't give you the path to settings cause I don't own a PS3 (borrowed from my friend to check projectors). If you have any problems - I'll ask my friend how he did it.
Please keep us posted about whether you managed to do it or not.
Djstinger 08-26-07, 12:03 PM Kano, The ps3 was set on 1080p/24 auto, so I changed the setting to "ON" or forced and the vert. freq. did not change. I put in a SD dvd and then tried a game, the 59.94Hz never changed the hole time. From what I read in the on-line manual for the ps3 is that 1080p/24 is only used during BD playback. When I turn off the ps3 and turn on my HD-DVR ( SA8300HD ) the vert. freq changes to 29.94 but keep in mind that the PJ is only seeing 1080i via. ( VSX84 ).
I could not find a setting in the ps3 menu that would allow me to force 1080p/24 output for SD plyback or game play. Any info on this would be great.
Kanowsky 08-26-07, 12:38 PM Kano, The ps3 was set on 1080p/24 auto, so I changed the setting to "ON" or forced and the vert. freq. did not change. I put in a SD dvd and then tried a game, the 59.94Hz never changed the hole time. From what I read in the on-line manual for the ps3 is that 1080p/24 is only used during BD playback. When I turn off the ps3 and turn on my HD-DVR ( SA8300HD ) the vert. freq changes to 29.94 but keep in mind that the PJ is only seeing 1080i via. ( VSX84 ).
I could not find a setting in the ps3 menu that would allow me to force 1080p/24 output for SD plyback or game play. Any info on this would be great.
Djstinger,
I'm awfully sorry I misinstructed you. I just haven't noticed you were talking about SD playback. I thought we are talking about BD playback.
Unfortunately I'm unaware about SD plyaback at 1080p/24, but blu-ray played really great-)
BTW, how can you understand whether progressive or interlaced signal is shown at PJ? I didn't see it in INFO menu.
Thespone 08-28-07, 09:05 AM Hello, I'm new here and may be asking a stupid question.
When the information screen shows 1080i, that's the input resolution, correct? Is the projector outputting 1080p then?
Djstinger 08-28-07, 10:08 AM NO, It is out-putting 1080i ( 1920 X 1080i ). If you were out-putting 1080p it would say ( 1920 X 1080 ).
What is your input source? and what are the vert. freq Hz in your info screen?
Kano, Not sure why I am not showing a sync value, I think it is because it is hooked up via. HDMI !!!
Brandon B 08-28-07, 10:39 AM Digital projectors do not output 1080i. Ever. They deinterlace all non-progressive material and display it as a full frame.
BB
jonjandran 08-28-07, 09:09 PM Hello, I'm new here and may be asking a stupid question.
When the information screen shows 1080i, that's the input resolution, correct? Is the projector outputting 1080p then?
Yes and yes.
kwokyan 08-30-07, 03:23 AM Kano, The ps3 was set on 1080p/24 auto, so I changed the setting to "ON" or forced and the vert. freq. did not change. I put in a SD dvd and then tried a game, the 59.94Hz never changed the hole time. From what I read in the on-line manual for the ps3 is that 1080p/24 is only used during BD playback. When I turn off the ps3 and turn on my HD-DVR ( SA8300HD ) the vert. freq changes to 29.94 but keep in mind that the PJ is only seeing 1080i via. ( VSX84 ).
I could not find a setting in the ps3 menu that would allow me to force 1080p/24 output for SD plyback or game play. Any info on this would be great.
Hi,
Please note that PS3 will output 1080p at 60Hz instead of 24Hz when you play SD DVD. It can output 24Hz when playing a blu-ray disc as the movie is encoded at 24Hz natively on blu-ray disc. In case of DVD, the encoded refresh rate is 60Hz but not 24Hz.
octogon 09-03-07, 09:48 AM Hi,
Please note that PS3 will output 1080p at 60Hz instead of 24Hz when you play SD DVD. It can output 24Hz when playing a blu-ray disc as the movie is encoded at 24Hz natively on blu-ray disc. In case of DVD, the encoded refresh rate is 60Hz but not 24Hz.
very well said Kwokyan
Djstinger 09-06-07, 07:16 AM Kwok, octo, Thank You, I am getting the same numbers 24Hz BD and 60Hz SD/ps3/SA8300.
octogon 09-06-07, 08:20 PM That is good, you have a fine PJ there , enjoy.
king conan 09-10-07, 02:00 AM Can anyone confirm that the firmware 4.0 is already available in USA or Europe?
and has anyone here tried the german mod?
thanks guys
Kanowsky 09-11-07, 03:30 PM Can anyone confirm that the firmware 4.0 is already available in USA or Europe?
I've got a European model with 4.0 firmware, but had 2 very visible and about 5 hardly visible dust blobs.
Had to deassemble it to clean panels with compressed air.
Almost succeded. Now I've got only one hardly visible blod right in the center of a screen. So, I will be checking whether blobs reappear again.
king conan 09-13-07, 06:07 AM thank you for your answer.
It's a shame the dust blob problem in the HC5000.
shame, shame, shame.
nm10721 09-14-07, 12:14 PM Hello all,
just a quick query,
I having been playing hddvds through my xbo360 add-on via my Mitsubishi HC5000 (component) and am getting black bars top and bottom.
Before anyone says anything, i know this is how the movie was intended to be displayed.
My point is I have a 106" diagonal Beamax screen and it is very annoying that i cannot fill the screen. I have tried stretching the picture however the 360 and hc5000 doesn't let you do this, even though it lets you do this with sd material.
Is this a limitation of the projector, would i have the same problem with one of its main competitors, say a Panasonic AE1000 or Epswon TW1000?
thanks,
Neil
king conan 09-15-07, 07:50 PM if the movie has aspect ratio 2.35.1 you have black bars in top and bottom
if the movie has aspect ratio 1.85.1 (or 1.78.1) the image will fill the screen.
You'll have to get used to that. This is how movies are displayed today. If you want to change aspect ratios you will have to crop the image with a horrible pan and scan losing about 30% of image of the sides of a 2.35.1 film. Some DVD players can do the pan & scan... But remember that filling your screen you're actually cropping image.
Hello all,
just a quick query,
I having been playing hddvds through my xbo360 add-on via my Mitsubishi HC5000 (component) and am getting black bars top and bottom.
Before anyone says anything, i know this is how the movie was intended to be displayed.
My point is I have a 106" diagonal Beamax screen and it is very annoying that i cannot fill the screen. I have tried stretching the picture however the 360 and hc5000 doesn't let you do this, even though it lets you do this with sd material.
Is this a limitation of the projector, would i have the same problem with one of its main competitors, say a Panasonic AE1000 or Epswon TW1000?
thanks,
Neil
Otherwise you need a video processor to vertically stretch the image and a lens to horizontally stretch the image. For anything wider than 1.78/1.85:1 that is.
SPLawren 09-16-07, 12:36 AM BTW - did anyone ever figure out if the "Ultra Edition" Mod by C4H/ProjectorTuning.de was doable here in the US? I'm more interested in that now, since it would be a good alternative upgrade to buying the HC6000. Ekkehart, any further updates or progress for US HC5000 owners? Has anyone done this?
This is my very first LCD PROJECTOR and I must say it is better than any plasma or lcd televisions ever owned. It is mated with a SONY av receiver the 5300ES, a 7.1 POLK in ceilings (LCi80's) fronts and center, rears are POLK in ceilings (LC60i's) and two MARTIN LOGAN dynamo subs. Also I have installed PLAYSTATION 3, SILVERSTONE LC10B HTCP, ESCIENT FIREBALL, SONY DVP-CX777ES of course GEFEN HDMI switcher, and miles of cabling from coaxial to fiber optic to connect everything. Is there anyway this can come together to give me complete control with respect to functionality of library of cds, dvds, photo's and music library. Yes, and a UNIVERSAL GENESIS MX-100 remote control for ease of operation. Problem sometimes exist with switching from one source to another especially HDMI sources. Help me to bring this all together!
Thanks.
Splotto 09-16-07, 08:52 AM This is my very first LCD PROJECTOR and I must say it is better than any plasma or lcd televisions ever owned. It is mated with a SONY av receiver the 5300ES, a 7.1 POLK in ceilings (LCi80's) fronts and center, rears are POLK in ceilings (LC60i's) and two MARTIN LOGAN dynamo subs. Also I have installed PLAYSTATION 3, SILVERSTONE LC10B HTCP, ESCIENT FIREBALL, SONY DVP-CX777ES of course GEFEN HDMI switcher, and miles of cabling from coaxial to fiber optic to connect everything. Is there anyway this can come together to give me complete control with respect to functionality of library of cds, dvds, photo's and music library. Yes, and a UNIVERSAL GENESIS MX-100 remote control for ease of operation. Problem sometimes exist with switching from one source to another especially HDMI sources. Help me to bring this all together!
Thanks.
Hello:
Congrats. :-)
If you question is really all about handling your media, you would probably do better asking on the HTPC forum since that is where your solution most likely rests (there is some media server).
Splotto
nm10721 09-18-07, 06:28 PM if the movie has aspect ratio 2.35.1 you have black bars in top and bottom
if the movie has aspect ratio 1.85.1 (or 1.78.1) the image will fill the screen.
You'll have to get used to that. This is how movies are displayed today. If you want to change aspect ratios you will have to crop the image with a horrible pan and scan losing about 30% of image of the sides of a 2.35.1 film. Some DVD players can do the pan & scan... But remember that filling your screen you're actually cropping image.
thanks mate, understood, just need to put up with it then!
king conan 09-21-07, 02:27 PM my HC5000 is bought from Japan and I live in Europe and asked to dvdplayer.de (the Ultra mod makers) if they can upgrade to the newest firmware during the mod operation and they said to me that the european firmware is not compatible with the japanese projector. That´s sad...
And also look what happened to my HC5000 after 9 months of happy using. (dust blobs included). Now is back to Japan for repair.
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y75/kconan/DSC_0059.jpg
It seems to me that the HC5000 is indeed a delicated projector.
Kanowsky 10-03-07, 07:46 AM May be this issue should be addressed to HTPC thread, but I decided to place it here, becase it's closer to PJ owners.
I've got HC5000 connected via DVI->HDMI to my HTPC.
Setup:
Nvidia 8800GTX with 163.71 drivers. 2.67GHZ C2D processor.
Setting up 24Hz in Nvidia Drivers I get some minor stutter while panning scenes with PDVD or other player.
Has anyone succeded smooth playback via HTPC at 24HZ?
Help is much appreciated, because I've tried everything - still no luck.:(
Superfly77 10-04-07, 08:18 AM I did do the precautions - nylon stocking was installed. I think there was residual dust when they sent it back to me b/c the dust blob was noticeable within the first 48 hours of getting it back. I really - really - do hope firmware 4.0 fixes this problem, because I otherwise really like this projector. . .
BTW - the rep also said there was no HC6000 projector in the works or otherwise - vaporware at best. Unclear if he's right, given the other sources, but we'll likely see at CEDIA. . .
The 6000 will be available in November. I can get them then....I just haven't been able to see one yet!
S
Superfly77 10-04-07, 08:23 AM thank you for your answer.
It's a shame the dust blob problem in the HC5000.
shame, shame, shame.
Hey Guys
The best protection I have been recommending for all projectors is to buy a cheap airconditioning filter from 3M. They are called filtrete and filter much better than panty hose. You can get them from Home depot or other similar stores. Just cut a piece to fit and tape it over the filter intake.
So far not one person who has gotten a PJ from me has had a dust blob issue.
Cheers
S
Hey Guys
The best protection I have been recommending for all projectors is to buy a cheap airconditioning filter from 3M. They are called filtrete and filter much better than panty hose. You can get them from Home depot or other similar stores. Just cut a piece to fit and tape it over the filter intake.
So far not one person who has gotten a PJ from me has had a dust blob issue.
Cheers
S
That's a really good idea but do you think it preserves a decent air flow rate to ensure good cooling? I'd figure making a large filter would give higher flow, but it's not simple.
bobpaule 10-04-07, 09:30 PM This is my very first LCD PROJECTOR and I must say it is better than any plasma or lcd televisions ever owned. It is mated with a SONY av receiver the 5300ES, a 7.1 POLK in ceilings (LCi80's) fronts and center, rears are POLK in ceilings (LC60i's) and two MARTIN LOGAN dynamo subs. Also I have installed PLAYSTATION 3, SILVERSTONE LC10B HTCP, ESCIENT FIREBALL, SONY DVP-CX777ES of course GEFEN HDMI switcher, and miles of cabling from coaxial to fiber optic to connect everything. Is there anyway this can come together to give me complete control with respect to functionality of library of cds, dvds, photo's and music library. Yes, and a UNIVERSAL GENESIS MX-100 remote control for ease of operation. Problem sometimes exist with switching from one source to another especially HDMI sources. Help me to bring this all together!
Thanks.
I have the Escient DVD-M100 and 3 777 changers and noticed that the best way to hook up the Escient is via component directly to HC5000, unless you have a good SD video processor, or a processing receiver with a Reon or better.
Get rid of the Gefen, it will not work with the HC5000 if it is any older than 2 years. I got rid of mine and the Anthem D1.
Get a Yamaha RX-V2700 (3xHDMI 1.2 accepts MPCM decoded) or better 3800 (advanced audio decoding 4xHDMI 1.3) receiver (this one has and internal VP that will do better with the component from Escient especially that it will take a 3 ft max run to the receiver as long runs of component ie analog cable are not advisable on account of signal loss). You can go cheap with a Sony 1000 (sorry cannot recall exact number, but make sure it accepts 7MPCM).
Get the cheapest Harmony 659 and you will have a blast programming your system online into it.
"Miles of cable" may degrade your signals betw the Fireball and the enslaved DVD players. What i did was go to ramelectronics (forum sponsor) and buy short 3 ft runs of all component and coax interconnects.
Another piece, get the SACDs out of the Escient, time to savor them unadulterated via MPCM from the PS3 into one of the new receivers, along with a magic 1080p visualization that will make you float.
Hope i helped a bit. We have very similar systems indeed. I have separates, and the Yammy used as a pre/pro goes to make room for the Onkyo Pro 885 preamp (Integra 9.8 brother with Pure Audio on top) an unbelievable deal, looks like the Sony 9000 of the next decade. Of course if you get the Onkyo receiver it may explode on you http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=916212, but Onkyo like Sony makes a lot of POS stuff assorted with true Pearls (no analogy with notorious PJ here) from time to time.
Also, get a PC near this PJ if you game, data at 2 million pixels looks fabulous, at least from the PC WW2 combat aviator's perspective (IL2 Sturmovik).
Hope this helps.
bobpaule 10-05-07, 01:19 PM One more thing, how many of you are torn between selling the HC5000 and getting the 6000 or EMP-TW2000 (50,000:1 CR and 1600 lumens) and keeping it?
I had mine for sale and thought better after seeing the dismal resale prices, i don't care about colorspace, let the PJ be HDMI 1.2 and the audio 1.3 (PS3 soon to be had Onkyo 885 Pre/Pro). I
would be a fool to waste that much upgrading when i have a fine PJ in my system. Besides i am not
divorced yet, and the better half monitors me like a Cerberus, see she already knows i have chronic
intermittent relapsing upgraditis (CIRU for short) :)
Also, i would like to get my hands on an HC6000 dust filter, or even better, follow CPCs advice, but i would cut it out using the foamie as a template and insert it inside the grille to look like the HC6000 shown here:
http://babelfish.altavista.com/babelfish/trurl_pagecontent?lp=de_en&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.cine4home.de%2Ftests%2Fprojektoren%2FHC 6000Prev%2FHC6000Prev.htm
Cine4Home 10-06-07, 05:06 PM One more thing, how many of you are torn between selling the HC5000 and getting the 6000 or EMP-TW2000 (50,000:1 CR and 1600 lumens) and keeping it?
I had mine for sale and thought better after seeing the dismal resale prices, i don't care about colorspace, let the PJ be HDMI 1.2 and the audio 1.3 (PS3 soon to be had Onkyo 885 Pre/Pro). I
would be a fool to waste that much upgrading when i have a fine PJ in my system. Besides i am not
divorced yet, and the better half monitors me like a Cerberus, see she already knows i have chronic
intermittent relapsing upgraditis (CIRU for short) :)
Also, i would like to get my hands on an HC6000 dust filter, or even better, follow CPCs advice, but i would cut it out using the foamie as a template and insert it inside the grille to look like the HC6000 shown here:
http://babelfish.altavista.com/babelfish/trurl_pagecontent?lp=de_en&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.cine4home.de%2Ftests%2Fprojektoren%2FHC 6000Prev%2FHC6000Prev.htm
I have been told by Mitsubishi Germany, that the improved dust-filter should become available for HC5000 users...
Regards,
Ekkehart
bobpaule 10-06-07, 09:35 PM Thx Ekhart, want to personally thank you for the awesome and methodical jobs you do reviewing the projectors, it helped me pick my HC5000, a decision that i will likely not regret for years to come.
thanks for the info. they should give them out to people for free if they request them so they get less units in under warranty repair.
Ekkart, what are your thoughts on the HC6000?
thanks.
Superfly77 10-08-07, 01:45 AM That's a really good idea but do you think it preserves a decent air flow rate to ensure good cooling? I'd figure making a large filter would give higher flow, but it's not simple.
Hi
The mitsu PJ's have such a low flow fan I would be very careful selecting anything to use as a filter. The 3M filtrete material is actually a very fine filter, but still presents little or no restriction. I tested it out and it works great.
I have given that advice to every buyer I have gotten a projector for in the past 6 months and most are following it. I also use 2 layers myself on my personal Epson.
No problems yet!
Cheers
S
bobpaule 10-08-07, 02:07 PM May be this issue should be addressed to HTPC thread, but I decided to place it here, becase it's closer to PJ owners.
I've got HC5000 connected via DVI->HDMI to my HTPC.
Setup:
Nvidia 8800GTX with 163.71 drivers. 2.67GHZ C2D processor.
Setting up 24Hz in Nvidia Drivers I get some minor stutter while panning scenes with PDVD or other player.
Has anyone succeded smooth playback via HTPC at 24HZ?
Help is much appreciated, because I've tried everything - still no luck.:(
I tried and tried with the same video card with mediocre results at best. The truth is HD implementations at that time were poor, and the DVI port had more of a bling value, unless you were connecting a monitor using the analog standard.
Regardless, after endless experimentation, i came to the conclusion that the card performs best via the data port (VGA) and the 2 million pixels definitely show in gaming. I don't know if you are familiar with Oleg's "IL2 Sturmovik" WW2 combat sim series, but in the game there is a saved track called "Black Death" for a simple reason, the intensity of artillery and effects increase until your video card shuts down. Not this baby!
I think we have ourselves a fine video card for gaming, as for HD via the HTPC, go to that forum and try to make sense of the cacophony. In short, the industry is trying their best to delay HD in PCs (i mean picture and lossless audio) for a good reason, they don't want BD to become the 21st century's mp3 :)
yakman2000 10-09-07, 11:36 AM OK
I admit it. I don't have any idea how to monitor my fan mode. I put the panty hose over the filter, but I have no idea what effect that's having on air flow. I've seen people referring to "fan mode x", but look in vain for the menu or info display that would give that to me.
I'm missing something. Please enlighten my ignorance.
How to open the service menu:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=10480615#post10480615
yakman2000 10-10-07, 12:17 PM Got it.
You are a gentleman, sir. Many thanx.
Cine4Home 10-11-07, 05:04 PM thanks for the info. they should give them out to people for free if they request them so they get less units in under warranty repair.
Ekkart, what are your thoughts on the HC6000?
thanks.
Yes, you are right about the air filters, I told them the same. however i guess this will be handled differently from country to country.
My thoughts on the HC6000 are all in my preview-test which is on Cine4Home.de
Basically the HC6000 is a really impressive projector which makes a better picture than the pure measurement data lets you believe.
Regards,
Ekkehart, Cine4Home
FremontRich 10-11-07, 05:45 PM <snipped>
My thoughts on the HC6000 are all in my preview-test which is on Cine4Home.de
Basically the HC6000 is a really impressive projector which makes a better picture than the pure measurement data lets you believe.
Regards,
Ekkehart, Cine4Home
Interestingly, that's what Evan Powell said of his evaluation of the HC6000.
http://www.projectorcentral.com/mitsubishi_hc6000_home_theater_projector.htm
thanks Ekkehart. we all enjoy reading your input on the forums.
take care,
troy
USA
Blippy2005 11-04-07, 07:09 AM Well I finally got the time and guts to take apart my Mits HC5000 and clear out the dust blobs.
Thank you Kanowsky for your excellent help and Cine4Home for great pictures.
Remember to ALWAYS be mindful of the LENS after removing the top cover you probably want to put the lens cap back on. Actually you may not even have to remove the lens cap to remove the top cover.
Please discharge any static electricity before working on the projector. Touch a piece of grounded metal before hand or wear a static discarge wriststrap and make sure it's grounded.
Be sure to unplug the projector and work on a cleared surface with adequate lighting.
Save all the screws and remember where they came from.
Yadda Yadda Blah Blah Blah
NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR ANY DAMAGE TO THE PROJECTOR FROM FOLLOWING THESE DIRECTIONS!!! EVERYTHING IS AT YOUR OWN RISK!!! OPENING YOUR PROJECTOR WILL VOID THE WARRANTY!!!
Original instructions were from Kanowsky. I have modified them slightly below:
Using this link for pictures
http://www.cine4home.com/reviews/pro...5000Review.htm
You'll need a few sizes of phillips head screwdrivers. You may want tweezers in case you drop a screw somewhere.
1) Remove the top cover.
-It is held by 5 screws on the bottom and by 3 screws from the rear of PJ.
2) Remove the the main metal shielding that covers the main board, 16 screws.
-You should now be able to see the main board.
3) Disconnect the cables going into the main board along the edges.
4) Now VERY CAREFULLY, use two fingers and press down slowly and firmly and most importantly EVENLY across the white unlock bars, one at a time until all 3 are unlocked. Use a small paperclip or something to pull the LCD controller ribbon cables out of the black locking mechanisms. There are two holes on the ribbon cables that help you to grab/pull them or use the tweezers.
NOTE: These white unlocking clips are pretty fragile do NOT break them.
5) Remove the remaining black screws from the rear of the projector that holds the rear plastic cover panel in place (the panel cover that surrounds the inputs). I think 6 screws here.
6) Now I can't remember if I had to remove any additional screws from the rear here, but the whole motherboard and the rear input panel should now be removable as one large piece. If not you may have to take a few more screws out. It should look like picture 6 and 7 from cine4home's page when you've removed it.
7) You should see some black foam covering the LCD Prism block. Remove this carefully. Don't tear it. It should now look like picture #10 where the LCD prism block is exposed.
-Stand the projector vertically on it's side or rear. Or have someone hold it very carefully.
-Using a compressed air can with an extended straw nozzle. Hold the can vertically DO NOT tilt the can. This is to avoid any liquid coming out of the sprayer. Spray a quick burst into the clear air just to clear the nozzle of any dust/particules/blah that might have been in the straw. Now holding the straw and using short bursts direct air across the LCD panels surrounding the prism block.
-You may want to switch compressed air cans after a few short bursts as it will get very cold quickly and it may start frosting.
8) Reassemble the projector accordingly. Do not operate it without the air filter etc.
Note: When reassembling beware of cables and do not crimp/push them under the mainboard if they're not meant to.
My own results:
I managed to remove several green dust blobs of varying sizes. Two blue ones and a few red ones.
In the end I only have one small red dust blob now which is much less noticeable than the green dust blobs. I think I can live with it even as I don't notice it during dark scenes unless I'm specifically looking for it. The green ones I could notice even if I wasn't actively looking for them.
Took me a little bit longer than an hour. If i got good at it I'm sure it could be done in 30 min or less. But remember patience is a virtue here as we're dealing with delicate lens, electronics etc.
I also removed the air filter and cleared it out using the compressed air cans then replaced it afterwards.
Now it looks like I have to modify the air filters with some pantyhose. :p
Thank you Kanowsky, Cine4Home and wonderful AVSForum for all the help! :D
elmalloc 11-04-07, 07:10 AM if the movie has aspect ratio 2.35.1 you have black bars in top and bottom
if the movie has aspect ratio 1.85.1 (or 1.78.1) the image will fill the screen.
You'll have to get used to that. This is how movies are displayed today. If you want to change aspect ratios you will have to crop the image with a horrible pan and scan losing about 30% of image of the sides of a 2.35.1 film. Some DVD players can do the pan & scan... But remember that filling your screen you're actually cropping image.
not unless you go CIH setup.
chris311 11-09-07, 03:39 PM I recently purchased a HD-DVD A3 player. I have it connected to my HC5000 through the DVI input. The picture is amazing when viewing HD-DVDs and the player is outputting a 1080i signal. I switched the signal to 480i to watch a standard DVD and let the HC5000 upscale the signal. When I switched the signal to 480i the picture was not scaled right. The picture was zoomed in aprox. twice the size. Has any else seen this problem? I’m trying to figure out if it’s the projector or the DVD player. Does anyone use 480i over the DVI input or HDMI input? I’m thinking that the HDMI input may be different but I don’t have a cable to try it with. I have also emailed Mit. but I have come to the conclusion that their tech support has no idea what they are talking. They told me that I need to purchase a different projector if I wanted to view 480i material. So can anyone confirm that the DVI or HDMI input can receive a 480i signal?
j5627429 11-17-07, 01:09 AM Well I finally got the time and guts to take apart my Mits HC5000 and clear out the dust blobs.
Thank you Kanowsky for your excellent help and Cine4Home for great pictures.
Remember to ALWAYS be mindful of the LENS after removing the top cover you probably want to put the lens cap back on. Actually you may not even have to remove the lens cap to remove the top cover.
Please discharge any static electricity before working on the projector. Touch a piece of grounded metal before hand or wear a static discarge wriststrap and make sure it's grounded.
Be sure to unplug the projector and work on a cleared surface with adequate lighting.
Save all the screws and remember where they came from.
Yadda Yadda Blah Blah Blah
NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR ANY DAMAGE TO THE PROJECTOR FROM FOLLOWING THESE DIRECTIONS!!! EVERYTHING IS AT YOUR OWN RISK!!! OPENING YOUR PROJECTOR WILL VOID THE WARRANTY!!!
Original instructions were from Kanowsky. I have modified them slightly below:
Using this link for pictures
http://www.cine4home.com/reviews/pro...5000Review.htm
You'll need a few sizes of phillips head screwdrivers. You may want tweezers in case you drop a screw somewhere.
1) Remove the top cover.
-It is held by 5 screws on the bottom and by 3 screws from the rear of PJ.
2) Remove the the main metal shielding that covers the main board, 16 screws.
-You should now be able to see the main board.
3) Disconnect the cables going into the main board along the edges.
4) Now VERY CAREFULLY, use two fingers and press down slowly and firmly and most importantly EVENLY across the white unlock bars, one at a time until all 3 are unlocked. Use a small paperclip or something to pull the LCD controller ribbon cables out of the black locking mechanisms. There are two holes on the ribbon cables that help you to grab/pull them or use the tweezers.
NOTE: These white unlocking clips are pretty fragile do NOT break them.
5) Remove the remaining black screws from the rear of the projector that holds the rear plastic cover panel in place (the panel cover that surrounds the inputs). I think 6 screws here.
6) Now I can't remember if I had to remove any additional screws from the rear here, but the whole motherboard and the rear input panel should now be removable as one large piece. If not you may have to take a few more screws out. It should look like picture 6 and 7 from cine4home's page when you've removed it.
7) You should see some black foam covering the LCD Prism block. Remove this carefully. Don't tear it. It should now look like picture #10 where the LCD prism block is exposed.
-Stand the projector vertically on it's side or rear. Or have someone hold it very carefully.
-Using a compressed air can with an extended straw nozzle. Hold the can vertically DO NOT tilt the can. This is to avoid any liquid coming out of the sprayer. Spray a quick burst into the clear air just to clear the nozzle of any dust/particules/blah that might have been in the straw. Now holding the straw and using short bursts direct air across the LCD panels surrounding the prism block.
-You may want to switch compressed air cans after a few short bursts as it will get very cold quickly and it may start frosting.
8) Reassemble the projector accordingly. Do not operate it without the air filter etc.
Note: When reassembling beware of cables and do not crimp/push them under the mainboard if they're not meant to.
My own results:
I managed to remove several green dust blobs of varying sizes. Two blue ones and a few red ones.
In the end I only have one small red dust blob now which is much less noticeable than the green dust blobs. I think I can live with it even as I don't notice it during dark scenes unless I'm specifically looking for it. The green ones I could notice even if I wasn't actively looking for them.
Took me a little bit longer than an hour. If i got good at it I'm sure it could be done in 30 min or less. But remember patience is a virtue here as we're dealing with delicate lens, electronics etc.
I also removed the air filter and cleared it out using the compressed air cans then replaced it afterwards.
Now it looks like I have to modify the air filters with some pantyhose. :p
Thank you Kanowsky, Cine4Home and wonderful AVSForum for all the help! :D
Thank you for taking the time to post this, Blippy. I'm sure many hc5000 will find it useful (especially those of us with japanese warranty models)
Now if only someone can post a how-to guide for the HC5000 Ultra Edition glass filters + scattered light iris modifications...
Curious to know which upgrade path is more cost effective for current hc5000 owners who do not happen to live in Germany/Europe?
A: Send in current HC5000 to Germany for ULTRA modifications
B: Sell HC5000 and buy HC6000?
Ekkehart, how does the HC5000ULTRA compare with the HC6000?
The reason I ask is because if the HC5000ultra is 90 percent as good as the hc6000 for less than half the hc6000 upgrade cost (after selling current hc5000), I would definitely go that route instead. I'm sure many others would too.
Joel
bobpaule 11-24-07, 07:00 PM I recently purchased a HD-DVD A3 player. I have it connected to my HC5000 through the DVI input. The picture is amazing when viewing HD-DVDs and the player is outputting a 1080i signal. I switched the signal to 480i to watch a standard DVD and let the HC5000 upscale the signal. When I switched the signal to 480i the picture was not scaled right. The picture was zoomed in aprox. twice the size. Has any else seen this problem? I’m trying to figure out if it’s the projector or the DVD player. Does anyone use 480i over the DVI input or HDMI input? I’m thinking that the HDMI input may be different but I don’t have a cable to try it with. I have also emailed Mit. but I have come to the conclusion that their tech support has no idea what they are talking. They told me that I need to purchase a different projector if I wanted to view 480i material. So can anyone confirm that the DVI or HDMI input can receive a 480i signal?
Yes it can! The ReonVX takes care of it.
BUT, you are not utilizing your PJ's full potential by going with the A3. You will see motion blurr as the Tosh A3's internal scaler has to calculate the HDDVD's 24fps 60fps to be output at 1080i.
My advice is return the A3 and get an A30 with 10 free movies, see right hand top link:
http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/browse/-/16401621/901-2958092-9363244
or an A35 if you have an internal TrueHD decoder in the receiver (you will lose menus though). This way you will have 1080p at 24fps and beautiful pans free of blurr, esp if you use a large screen. I noticed a big difference from A1 to A30.
yakman2000 11-28-07, 01:46 PM I've found that the Bissell style 8 vacuum cleaner HEPA filter is exactly the right size to fit the filter door on the HC5000. The filter itself is a HEPA filter, low restriction, and very effective (it clearly is filtering out smoke/grease as well as dust.) It *does* require taping to the door, but that ends up looking pretty clean when installed.
The only non-beautiful part is that the filter is almost exactly twice as long as it should be. On the other hand, if you flip the filter longitudinally when it gets dirty, you can get a second use out of it.
is my HC5000 defective??
When I turn on the projector I get no picture 90% of the time. I have to turn it off and on multiple times before it operates normally. I just got it turned on after about 20 tries. The green lights come on as normal but there is no picture. Have tried changing inputs, no luck. The bulb does actually light, it just does not project any image. It's as if the LCD panel is not operating to create the picture. Once it does start to work , it operates as normal. This problem started about a week ago. At first it was very sporadic, now it is much much worse.
any input is appreciated.
thanks.
Dallas777 12-01-07, 08:22 AM is my HC5000 defective??
Yes.
I had 2 different 5000's that did this.
Mits is aware of this and now knows how to fix it. There is a problem with the motherboard and it does not strike the bulb with the high voltage charge.
You need to contact Mits tech support, assuming it is a USA warranty unit.
Laserfan 12-01-07, 05:52 PM Mits tech supportDo they have a decent service organization? My nearest Mits service center is in Houston about 3 hours away.
Dallas777 12-03-07, 10:26 AM Do they have a decent service organization? My nearest Mits service center is in Houston about 3 hours away.
I don't know what issue you have with your 5000. But the non-start-up bulb strike issue machines have to be sent to the main tech support center in CA.
Mitsubishi Digital Electronics America, INC.
9351 Jeronimo Road, Irvine CA 92618
Tech support there e-mailed me an FEDEX overnight label for shipping the unit. And then overnight shipped it to me when done.
thanks a lot guys. looks like it's going to mitsu!
vlayton 12-08-07, 07:09 PM My Sony HS-10 is developing problems(yellow picture) so I've been looking at 1080p projectors. Is the HC5000 worth buying at a close-out price? Are better auto-iris and HDMI 1.3 in the HC6000 worth 2K? I have a PS3 and it sounds like the HDMI 1.3 vs 1.2 in the HC5000 makes the picture much better. Still, I've been pretty happy with HS-10 so maybe I wouldn't notice(plus I'd have extra cash to but some discs with).
Thanks(and I hope I haven't violated the "don't talk about price" policy.
j5627429 12-10-07, 01:58 AM My Sony HS-10 is developing problems(yellow picture) so I've been looking at 1080p projectors. Is the HC5000 worth buying at a close-out price? Are better auto-iris and HDMI 1.3 in the HC6000 worth 2K? I have a PS3 and it sounds like the HDMI 1.3 vs 1.2 in the HC5000 makes the picture much better. Still, I've been pretty happy with HS-10 so maybe I wouldn't notice(plus I'd have extra cash to but some discs with).
Thanks(and I hope I haven't violated the "don't talk about price" policy.
Good question. I had to make that same decision myself. I went with the HC5000 for 2k less, after reading the HC6000 thread thoroughly. I recommend reading comments from the owners who upgraded.
My feeling was that the people who put lots of emphasis on how black the black is in dark scenes will really love the hc6000 over the hc5000. If bright or mid-light mixed scenes are considered, there will not be nearly as much of a visual difference in the image, since the panel is the same, and ansi contrast is pretty much the same, too (maybe a little better on the hc6000 with the addition of the scattered light iris in the lens)
So if you look at the overall performance, it is definitely not worth 2k more for the hc6000 unless you really like the black to be super black and you are very picky about the iris.
I am picky about the iris and I can say that it is not too bad on the hc5000.. for 2k savings i'm not complaining at ALL. Supposedly the latest firmware 4 does help a little, although I've never saw a firmware 1,2 or 3 model.
I can't say anything for the hdmi 1.2 vs 1.3 argument since my only source is an HTPC, but i really doubt that it is that noticeable.
The HC5000 is not a cheap projector by any means. I think the close-out price you're refering to is a bargain. I am very impressed with the amount of features this pj has compared to the budget home theater projectors i've used in the past. There is also a level of build quality that goes into these things. I'm sure the possibility of getting a unit with horribly bad convergence or uniformity issues is much lower with the HC5000 than say a Sanyo Z2000 which started life as a budget 1080p projector. The hs10 was also not a cheap projector, and held its value very well over the years. Contrast performance is not everything in the price. optics, silent&cool operation, resolution, powered lens shift/zoom/focus, etc are features that do not instantly get cheaper.
Would i have gotten an hc6000 if it were 500 more? yes. 1000 more? probably not. The experience on the whole does not warrant it, in my opinion. Whatever you do, don't go down to 720p..i never really felt satisfied after selling my old hs10 and slowly moving up through the ranks of the 1280x720 lcd projectors with better contrast. the extra resolution really helps with 1080 material, be it I or P.
Hope this helps.
Joel
How do I get a firmware upgrade? How do I perform a firmware upgrade?
I have tried a few searches, but no joy.
Thanks in advance for any help I get.
Only the Mitsubishi service center can do it.
ggingrich 12-18-07, 05:38 PM Can the 5000 unit work with the 6000 filter? Seems I saw a post saying something like that a while ago. If so, anyone know who to contact to get one? I sent something to Mits from their web site and never got a reply.
j5627429 12-18-07, 08:26 PM Can the 5000 unit work with the 6000 filter? Seems I saw a post saying something like that a while ago. If so, anyone know who to contact to get one? I sent something to Mits from their web site and never got a reply.
It should plug right in, since the housing is exactly the same. Some people were talking about the filters being available for purchase somewhere, but I don't know what happned with that.
I just taped a sheet of 3M Filtrete over the entire fan inlet side and part of the bottom of the housing before I even turned it on for the first time. No dust blobs and peace of mind. Probably even better than the 6000's filter which just plugs into the same location -- this method eliminates any possibility of particles getting in through the cracks between the filter module and the housing.
Only drawback? It looks like my HC5000 just got back from the hospital.
(used breathable medical tape to stick the filtrete on.)
ggingrich 12-19-07, 05:16 PM It should plug right in, since the housing is exactly the same. Some people were talking about the filters being available for purchase somewhere, but I don't know what happned with that.
I just taped a sheet of 3M Filtrete over the entire fan inlet side and part of the bottom of the housing before I even turned it on for the first time. No dust blobs and peace of mind. Probably even better than the 6000's filter which just plugs into the same location -- this method eliminates any possibility of particles getting in through the cracks between the filter module and the housing.
Only drawback? It looks like my HC5000 just got back from the hospital.
(used breathable medical tape to stick the filtrete on.)
I use the nylon hose method, and it seems to be fine, no blobs. Just wondering if there is a place to get them. Thanks.
vlayton 12-19-07, 08:04 PM Good question. I had to make that same decision myself. I went with the HC5000 for 2k less, after reading the HC6000 thread thoroughly. I recommend reading comments from the owners who upgraded.
Joel
Just the info I was looking for, Joel. Thanks. I have a 5000 laying on the floor downstairs. Just waiting on a bud to help install. :D I have to read up on filter issues since...you call that a filter?
Laserfan 12-21-07, 12:23 AM I don't own the HC5000, but in studying the manual there are two things I don't understand:
1. The Advanced menu (page 25) has a "Screen Size-16:9 or Cinemascope 2.35:1" option. What does this do? It's not explained anywhere AFAICT.
2. When Viewing video images page 20 only one aspect is shown for 720p, 1080i, 1080p and that's 16:9. How is the Vertical Stretch accomplished for a CIH/Anamorphic lens attachment?
Thanks for any replies! :confused:
j5627429 12-21-07, 01:53 AM I don't own the HC5000, but in studying the manual there are two things I don't understand:
1. The Advanced menu (page 25) has a "Screen Size-16:9 or Cinemascope 2.35:1" option. What does this do? It's not explained anywhere AFAICT.
2. When Viewing video images page 20 only one aspect is shown for 720p, 1080i, 1080p and that's 16:9. How is the Vertical Stretch accomplished for a CIH/Anamorphic lens attachment?
Thanks for any replies! :confused:
I can answer the first one. The "Cinemascope 2.35:1" option just masks off the 16:9 image so that only a 2.35:1 window is shown, and also relocates the OSD menu so that it is inside the 2.35 window. At least that's what it does with my 1920x1080 hdmi source. I have not tried any other resolutions.
By masking off i mean black bars on the top and bottom of the image, just like a letterboxed dvd. I find this feature helpful in case i need to raise the brightness in the imgage to see more shadow detail..in the image but don't want the black bars on top and bottom to get washed out. Some people just use black felt or curtains or other things. The other use for this feature would be if you had an "open mat" version of a movie that you wanted to view only a 2.35:1 window of.
I havent played with the other view modes.. maybe somebody else can confirm that this PJ does the vertical stretch needed for constant image height in 2.35:1
Laserfan 12-21-07, 08:09 AM The "Cinemascope 2.35:1" option just masks off the 16:9 image so that only a 2.35:1 window is shown, and also relocates the OSD menu so that it is inside the 2.35 window.Makes sense, thanks for that explanation. Does anyone know how to set-up for Vertical Stretch for CIH?
Laserfan 12-21-07, 12:30 PM maybe somebody else can confirm that this PJ does the vertical stretch needed for constant image height in 2.35:1Well, no bites yet but I at least see where my confusion is: "the table above is in the case of 16:9" (SCREEN SIZE selection). So the manual doesn't show what it's doing for a 2.35 screen selection. :(
j5627429 12-22-07, 04:07 AM Well, no bites yet but I at least see where my confusion is: "the table above is in the case of 16:9" (SCREEN SIZE selection). So the manual doesn't show what it's doing for a 2.35 screen selection. :(
Yeah from the manual, it would appear that this projector does not have that function. What it needs to do is zoom up the 2.35 inside of the 16:9 image AND squish the sides in so they dont get cut off by the zoom.
Looks like you may be limited to doing the zoom squish thing with your player, or with a computer or some other kind of external scaling thing.
Laserfan 12-22-07, 09:30 AM Well, I'm 99% sure that the HC5000 will work in a CIH setup but surprisingly no one one seems to be around to state exactly HOW.
In the meantime I found this about the SCREEN SIZE/Cinemascope option:
http://avreviews.avforums.com/index.php?reviewid=16&pageid=5
This still doesn't completely clear-up the mystery for me but in another thread someone told me that "Cinemascope" setting kept the OSD in the 2.35 space.
I've been trying to figure-out all the differences between the 6000, the 5000, and the 4900, as I'd had my eye on a 6000 but the 4900 is being offered for dirt cheap and I can afford it NOW. Anyway the 6000 and the 5000 have the 'scope setting but the 4900 does not.
j5627429 12-22-07, 01:55 PM OK i played around with it some more.
The cinescope 2.35:1 option masks off the top and bottom and relocates the OSD so that it is inside the 2.35:1 space. However, once you are IN the cinescope 2.35:1 mode, you can hit the ASPECT button and switch to 16:9 within the 2.35:1 window.
This seems to be a function for people that do not have an anamorphic lens, but still want to use a 2.35:1 screen. The drawback is that some quality is lost when a 16:9 image is shrinked into the 2.35:1 window. but 2.35:1 stuff willl look great.
I still dont think this pj does vertical stretching in 16:9 mode.. but then again my menus are in japanese and its hard to understand sometimes !
j5627429 12-22-07, 02:00 PM I hope they start making anamorphic bluray/hddvds... that way when you use an anamorphic lens, you'll actually utilize all 1080 pixels.. instead of just zooming the 800 or so pixels to 1080 with the current anamorphic lens setup. I doubt they'll do that though..unless 2.35:1 aspect ratio televisions start becoming popular.
Laserfan 12-22-07, 03:11 PM I still dont think this pj does vertical stretching in 16:9 mode.. but then again my menus are in japanese and its hard to understand sometimes !:eek: :D
Thanks for following-up. Seems like the Cinemascope setting offers some convenience features for sure.
Bill Mac 12-27-07, 10:51 AM If you are looking at this PJ give 6th ave a call @ ext.8474 and ask for Dave. I was told that the pricing is very good.
Bill
bobpaule 12-27-07, 07:42 PM Can the 5000 unit work with the 6000 filter? Seems I saw a post saying something like that a while ago. If so, anyone know who to contact to get one? I sent something to Mits from their web site and never got a reply.
Here is the information you need, please post if it has become available:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=942146
ggingrich 12-27-07, 08:38 PM Here is the information you need, please post if it has become available:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=942146
Thanks. I'll check them tomorrow and report back.
ggingrich 12-28-07, 09:32 AM Thanks. I'll check them tomorrow and report back.
Still not available. They suggested contacting tech support. I'll stick with the nylon and wait until it is available.
SSPC v1.2 is now available for Download. v1.2 is the first version that has several PQ controls on one page for easy projector/display calibration.
NOTE: SSPC was developed and tested on Windows XP (Support for Vista is not confirmed).
v1.2 - 01/27/2008
+Added Internal PQ Calibration Control Support for Mitsubishi Projectors (tested on HC3000, HC4900*).
+Added Serial Communication Error Handling
+Several Internal Code Changes.
*HC1500, HC5000 and HC6000 should work as well (and other Mitsubishi Models or Projectors that support their Serial Codes).
Download Link is available HERE IN THIS THREAD (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=977617):
http://i179.photobucket.com/albums/w288/THESoulPimp/SSPC/SSPC-Main-v1-2.jpg
Enjoy
-Shawn
j5627429 01-27-08, 08:38 PM Wow this looks great, turbe!
Will this allow us hc5000 users to tame the "High Bright" color temp mode without having to use a glass filter?
Wow this looks great, turbe!
Will this allow us hc5000 users to tame the "High Bright" color temp mode without having to use a glass filter?
Are you talking about reading the factory default settings for the High Brightness Color Temp setting (so they can be used as a starting point in Color Temp/USER)???
If this is what you are talking about, this could be used for that.. however, we are looking for the proper code to get those values with our 4900 Filter Mod. As soon as I (or someone else) can get the proper code(s), I'll add a Button or function to easily get those values and transfer them to USER.
I don't monitor this thread, so if you have further questions, can you post them in my SSPC thread (the link is in my Signature below)? :D
Also, if you do use this, please post feedback in my thread too.. :)
Suggestions are encouraged....
Zoombo v1.0 is Available!
[Tested on HC4900, should work on HC5000 and HC6000]
16:9 <--> 2.35 etc.
Move the Zoom to Your Presets using a PC and the Serial Connection!
More Information is available in the Zoombo thread (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=985807).
SCREEN SHOTS:
This Window can be hidden at Startup
http://i179.photobucket.com/albums/w288/THESoulPimp/SSPC/Zoombo_Main.jpg
http://i179.photobucket.com/albums/w288/THESoulPimp/SSPC/Zoombo_bar1.jpg
http://i179.photobucket.com/albums/w288/THESoulPimp/SSPC/Zoombo_bar2.jpg
http://i179.photobucket.com/albums/w288/THESoulPimp/SSPC/Zoombo_bar3.jpg
j5627429 01-28-08, 11:54 PM Yes that's what i was talking about, since you cant make adjustments to the High Brightness Color Temp mode.
Amazing stuff! Maybe i should buy a 2.35:1 screen instead of a 16:9.
Thanks for the great work, Turbe
Yes that's what i was talking about, since you cant make adjustments to the High Brightness Color Temp mode.
Amazing stuff! Maybe i should buy a 2.35:1 screen instead of a 16:9.
Thanks for the great work, Turbe
Thanks :D
larrimore 04-21-08, 06:37 PM There are some real KILLER deals out there (~$1500+/-). Would you still buy this projector? Maybe it is a silly question since it was $4500 just over a year ago, but....
What say you?
Yeah thats what I'm wondering as well. Is it worth getting the 5000 for a hundred bucks more than the 4900?
j5627429 04-24-08, 10:00 PM If you watch a lot of standard definition TV or regular DVDs, the HQV processing in the hc5000 will make a big difference. Image wise, the contrast on the hc5000 may be a bit better, while the hc4900 is a little bit brighter. I've never seen the 4900 personally, but I own the hc5000 and it's plenty bright.
Hi, currently own the Mits 3000 1080i DLP and considering on getting the Mits 5000 1080P. My question is the difference between the DLP and LCD that noticeable as far as blacks levels are, concern and how is the Door screen affect with this PJ? Have the Sony PS3 and just wondering if the BD would look that much better on the 5000.
Any feedback would be appreciated, there is no hurry on buying this PJ but thought that would buy it at the low end as long as it is a pretty good one VS spending a heck of a lot more for a 1080P that does almost the same PQ:D
Say Guy's any replies or thoughts or opinions....
Thanks
FremontRich 04-26-08, 10:47 PM Hi, currently own the Mits 3000 1080i DLP and considering on getting the Mits 5000 1080P. My question is the difference between the DLP and LCD that noticeable as far as blacks levels are, concern and how is the Door screen affect with this PJ? Have the Sony PS3 and just wondering if the BD would look that much better on the 5000.
Any feedback would be appreciated, there is no hurry on buying this PJ but thought that would buy it at the low end as long as it is a pretty good one VS spending a heck of a lot more for a 1080P that does almost the same PQ:D
Thanks
Hehe... your memory must be getting worse because the HC3000 is a 720p projector. :p
Hehe... your memory must be getting worse because the HC3000 is a 720p projector. :p
Well If I am not mistaken according to the HC300 user manual page 38, it is 480i,480p,576i,576p,720p and 1080I. Before you say anything make sure that you have your information correct. Are you from Fremont Ca, if so that says everything.:D:D:eek:
Thank you for your humor.
Hey guys I just set up my HC5000 and the first thing I noticed is that the projector projects a skewed image. The left side of the image is slanted downwards significantly. I have tried mounting on a table, mounting on some boxes so its exactly the perfect height, when I use the legs the top becomes correct but then the sides are slanted.
Also when I use the HDMI input there are flickering dots all over the image.
JOHNnDENVER 05-02-08, 05:50 PM Skewed as your describing almost always means the projector is not parallel with the screen.
If the left side is smaller it mean the left side of the lens is closer to the screen than the right side.
Your HDMI issues sound like a cable problem. Try reducing your resolution some.
bobpaule 05-04-08, 03:40 PM Yeah thats what I'm wondering as well. Is it worth getting the 5000 for a hundred bucks more than the 4900?
You must be kidding, right ? The HC5000 has a very capable video processor, the ReonVX, the 4900 has nothing like it.
If you plan on watching 1080p 24fps all the time then definitely get the 4900.
Yeah the flickering dots were from the cable. Anways anyone got any goot mounts for this thing? I need a 10.5 inch drop or more.
thanks.
Actarusfleed 05-05-08, 05:25 AM My HC5000 has an old firmware installed so ... my question is:
Is it possible to do the upgrade at home?
Thank you,
acta.
arc trooper 05-08-08, 06:49 PM ok heres a silly question, i currently have a hd1000u and am in the process of selling it.. now.. i run it in "low" mode and project it onto a 150 inch screen will the 5000 be able to fill my screen in its "low" mode? anyone else out there got a monster screen with this pj?
Robert Clark 05-08-08, 06:58 PM Well If I am not mistaken according to the HC300 user manual page 38, it is 480i,480p,576i,576p,720p and 1080I. Before you say anything make sure that you have your information correct. Are you from Fremont Ca, if so that says everything.:D:D:eek:
Thank you for your humor.
Not sure if you're joking but the HC3000 is indeed a 720p projector. It does not have 1080p or 1080i resolution, it's just able to handle the 1080i signal and downrez it to 720p, as does my Mitsu HC1500...
j5627429 05-08-08, 09:55 PM ok heres a silly question, i currently have a hd1000u and am in the process of selling it.. now.. i run it in "low" mode and project it onto a 150 inch screen will the 5000 be able to fill my screen in its "low" mode? anyone else out there got a monster screen with this pj?
Well using these two calculators,
http://www.projectorcentral.com/Mitsubishi-HD1000U-projection-calculator-pro.htm
http://www.projectorcentral.com/Mitsubishi-HC5000BL-projection-calculator-pro.htm
It shows the hd1000 at 11FL screen brightness and the hc5000 at 6FL at 150".
You would have to use the high brightness mode on the HC5000 for sure, and hopefully your 150" screen has gain. Don't worry about using the "high" lamp mode on the hc5000 if its the noise you're worried about! its amazingly quiet in both low and high modes. Now if you want the 5000hr lamp life..well i dunno. I havent heard of any early bulb failure on the hc5000 yet. Maybe everyone's still on their first one? heh.
The hc5000 is not dim. I project a 87" diag image in the "vivid/high brite" color mode and it's too bright for me in high lamp mode.
arc trooper 05-09-08, 11:17 AM Well using these two calculators,
http://www.projectorcentral.com/Mitsubishi-HD1000U-projection-calculator-pro.htm
http://www.projectorcentral.com/Mitsubishi-HC5000BL-projection-calculator-pro.htm
It shows the hd1000 at 11FL screen brightness and the hc5000 at 6FL at 150".
You would have to use the high brightness mode on the HC5000 for sure, and hopefully your 150" screen has gain. Don't worry about using the "high" lamp mode on the hc5000 if its the noise you're worried about! its amazingly quiet in both low and high modes. Now if you want the 5000hr lamp life..well i dunno. I havent heard of any early bulb failure on the hc5000 yet. Maybe everyone's still on their first one? heh.
The hc5000 is not dim. I project a 87" diag image in the "vivid/high brite" color mode and it's too bright for me in high lamp mode.
well for my screen right now im using a painted drywall wall... if that makes sense. i painted it 2 times with mautz brillant flat white paint if that helps...i think it looks really damn good
arc trooper 05-13-08, 01:37 PM OK! its on its way, now just waiting for it to get here! ill take my hc5000bl owners club card now lol
j5627429 05-13-08, 11:56 PM Congrats.
Another thing you can do to increase the brightness is set the Color Temperature mode to "High Bright" or "Vivid" (not sure exactly what its called since mine's in japanese), and then push red gamma way up and move green and blue way down to get the colors more natural. This mode will make an even brighter, higher contrast image.. although to get perfect colors with "high bright" you will need a magenta filter like Cine4Home.de uses.
arc trooper 05-14-08, 12:14 AM Congrats.
Another thing you can do to increase the brightness is set the Color Temperature mode to "High Bright" or "Vivid" (not sure exactly what its called since mine's in japanese), and then push red gamma way up and move green and blue way down to get the colors more natural. This mode will make an even brighter, higher contrast image.. although to get perfect colors with "high bright" you will need a magenta filter like Cine4Home.de uses.
will that work in eco-lamp mode?
arc trooper 05-14-08, 12:21 AM anyone have any calibration tips for me? 150 inch screen, bright bright white wall... anyone?
arc trooper 05-15-08, 05:36 PM guess not....anyways it fills up a 150 inch screen no probs on low mode...and looks INCREDIBLE! so no tips from anyone?
j5627429 05-15-08, 09:53 PM What color temp and gamma mode are you currently in? 150" without screen gain in low mode is going to be very dim by home theater or retail theater standards.
Anyway, if you ever get curious, the high-bright color temp mode works in low-lamp mode. That's how i use it. and now i can't go back.. since i like the brighter, more contrasty image this mode puts out.
Just press the "C.T." button on the remote and left and right until it switches to "high bright" or whatever it's called.
Then the image should immediately look much brighter and higher contrast, although there will be a greenish tint.
Once you are set to the high bright color temp mode:
You can fix a lot of the greenish tint by pressing the "Gamma" button and press right until you find either User1 or User2 and press enter. Then move up until you find the gain adjustment (i think it defaults to "all colors," so once you get to all colors, press left or right to move between red, blue, and green individually). Without a test pattern, it won't be very accurate, but what you can do is for each of the three ranges (low, med, high), adjust the red gain to +10, and bring the green and blue gain down to -10 or -8. This will make the image much more normal. with color closer to the cinema mode but with more brightness and contrast.
Remeber, if you change your color temp mode back to middle or warm or somethhing, you'll need to switch the gamma mode back to "cinema" to have normal colors (otherwise everything will be very very red.
j5627429 05-15-08, 09:58 PM Oh and another thing you'll want to do is go to the hardware store and get a piece of 3M Filtrete. tape that thing over the entire air intake side of the projector. I did that before turning mine on for the first time, knowing that dust blobs were a common problem with this model. I havent had any dust blobs yet.
arc trooper 05-16-08, 01:50 AM cool. ill have to try that and the filter thing
Suppose I apply the 3M Filtrete method. How often would I change it out for another?
j5627429 05-17-08, 03:07 AM That's easy. Since you're putting the filter on the outside of the case, a dark square will eventuall appear on the 3M material, matching the shape of the air inlet (and factory filter) behind it.
You could change it when you feel it looks dirty enough to be changed. Mine has taken about 300 hours to show a slight brownish square in front of where the air intake is, but my house is pretty dusty. I'm sure it will vary depending on the environment. The filtrete material is not that expensive, and you could probably change it whenever it starts looking obviously dirty.
Thank you for the prompt response. Which type of 3m filtrete are you using? So many to choose from that I don't know which one to get.
I just orded the HC5000 from from *th ave***. If anyone else has ordered this recently from them, I have a couple of questions. What color was the projector - is it the black version or the black & white version. Also, does anyone know what the software version was and what version is the hdmi. Thanks, can't wait to get this projector, especially at the price offered.
arc trooper 05-18-08, 12:36 PM hey csaw, let me know if when you turn yours on it smells a lil funny for the 1st few hrs of operation. i know mine did. anyone else have this issue?
arc,
When I get it and set it up I will definately be aware for the smell, don't know what that could be from, didn't have that with my current projector when it was new. I'll let you know what I find. Did you order from *th ***nue? If so can you answer the color question I asked before?
Thanks
arc trooper 05-19-08, 12:13 AM i got mine from some folks in illinois, but mines black , but from what ive heard you can get them in white
arc trooper 05-19-08, 12:15 AM also, i got tired of waiting for the worthless morons that sent my mount "priority mail" (what a joke) lol anyways i built one and i love it! used the built in lens shift and i couldnt be happier with the results! lil keystone effect, but its under the rug type stuff...
j5627429 05-19-08, 01:41 AM Thank you for the prompt response. Which type of 3m filtrete are you using? So many to choose from that I don't know which one to get.
It's a really thin filter that is designed to put over the intake of air conditioners (not a model-specific type that replaces an internal filter). you can cut to whatever size you want.
This looks like the one i have
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0009GVXK6?smid=A2XHGJAEAIWR55&tag=dealtime-hpc-20&linkCode=asn
"hey csaw, let me know if when you turn yours on it smells a lil funny for the 1st few hrs of operation. i know mine did. anyone else have this issue?"
Arc Trooper,
I just got my projector today, I did notice a smell for the first 1/2 hour or so, smells kind of like when a furnace fires up for the first time in the winter. It did go away and I have not noticed it since. Love the picture, I am coming from a Sanyo Z2, so this looks fantastic right out of the box, does anyone have any good links to a tweak thread, I didn't see one when searching. Thanks to everyone for their comments - it really helped make my decision.
hc5000 owners,
Is there a way to adjust lens shift & zoom without the grid being on the screen? I would really like to see the projected image when zooming so that I can fit 16x9 & 2.35:1 to the screen. I didn't see anything about it in the manual, was wondering if they give you a choice of the grid or not.
Thanks
ronin69 05-22-08, 09:42 AM Instead of ordering go down to sixth ave i got the 5000 for 1829.00, 1899.00 after tax.
It's a really thin filter that is designed to put over the intake of air conditioners (not a model-specific type that replaces an internal filter). you can cut to whatever size you want.
This looks like the one i have
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0009GVXK6?smid=A2XHGJAEAIWR55&tag=dealtime-hpc-20&linkCode=asn
Thanks!
What is the maximum resolution available when a computer is connected to the hc5000? Through vga and hdmi?
j5627429 05-22-08, 11:32 PM Thanks!
What is the maximum resolution available when a computer is connected to the hc5000? Through vga and hdmi?
I use DVI-> HDMI, never VGA, and ONLY use the projector's native panel resolution of 1920x1080. Nothing more, nothing less. If you're connecting to a computer, that's the only resolution you should be concerned about. Make sure you turn off the Overscan feature (default is 97% - change it to 100%) so that you get razor-sharp 1:1 pixel mapping.
Quick clarification?
I'm considering picking up the HC5000 (anybody know the rock bottom price at the moment?) but am a bit concerned about it being able to display 1080p 24fps correctly. Some posts say the HC5000 will accept the 1080p 24fps signal but will only display it at 1080p 60Hz. Other posts claim it will take 1080p 24fps and display it at 1080p 48Hz.
If anybody knows definitively, I would appreciate the info.
George
Also, I have had two projectors previously, IN72 and Optoma HD7100, both DLP's and I'm a bit concerned about the black level and contrast of the LCD panel used in the HC5000. Can anybody compare it to the HD7100? Thanks again.
j5627429 05-23-08, 07:20 AM George-
The HC5000 displays 1080/24 just fine. The projector's status menu will display "1080p/24hz" or something similar to that when it's being fed 1080/24, and there is an obvious smoothness in slow pans and scrolling text that are the tell-tale signs of accurate 24p playback.
If you are coming from DLP, it may depend on your environment. If you have lots of white walls and a non-grey screen, the extra ANSI contrast advantage of the dlp may not be as big as you think. Really really dark scenes are the only places where the hc5000 feels like could be improved a little (thats why they made the hc6000.. well and they fixed the sluggish iris which i barely notice - maybe 1 in every 6 movies).
If you love really dark movies and can't stand it when your eyes adjust to the darkness (after a bright scene) and you start noticing how bright grey the "black" is.. this projector is probably not for you. But given the amazing resolution, sharpness brightness, processing and other features, and PRICE, its really a fair tradeoff. oh and the silence is scary. no DLP even comes close. you'll think its not on, or malfunctioning.. its THAT quiet.
Thanks j, for the feedback. The one thing that sticks out in your post, for me at least, is 'bright grey' and 'black'. That comparison is really scary to me. Also, an absolute must is the ability to output 1080p 24fps sources. Do you know if it refreshes at 24Hz or 48Hz?
I felt my IN72 had great black levels (of course it was only a 480p projector) but my HD7100 leaves a lot to be desired when it comes to black levels. Does anybody know how well the HC5000 would compare to the HD7100, as relates to black levels?
The HD7100 has about as weak black levels as I would really want to deal with, but are acceptable if only barely. If the HC5000's black levels were comparable to the HD7100, I might be sold on this projector.
You talk about the other features, quiet, motorized zoom, focus and h. and v. lens shift, wow. And, I heard it is really sharp which is one of the HD7100's greatest quality. I've never seen such a quality lens on a budget projector before.
Thanks again for the feedback. Anybody else?
George
I use DVI-> HDMI, never VGA, and ONLY use the projector's native panel resolution of 1920x1080. Nothing more, nothing less. If you're connecting to a computer, that's the only resolution you should be concerned about. Make sure you turn off the Overscan feature (default is 97% - change it to 100%) so that you get razor-sharp 1:1 pixel mapping.
What about DVI-> DVI? Does the projector accept a native resolution of 1920x1080p through that input? Thanks!
What is the general consensus for having the auto iris set on?
I got the HC5000U about two weeks ago and love it except maybe for the auto iris but that might only be because I keep thinking about it while watching movies.
From everything I have read in reviews posted on the web, the consensus seems to be auto iris1. I have mine set to this and I have only noticed it a few times in viewing the last 10 movies or so.
Since the activity has slowed down here regarding tweeks on the hc5000, are people using the settings from the hc4900 thread, or is everyone just enjoying their projector:p
Just noticed this thread. Maybe you guys would know how common and normal or bad it is:
I just bought HC5000. Looks awesome, but I have noticed when looking very close that there is a slight colour separation, most visible on black-on-white lines, goes to about 1 pixel up and down – green on top and red on the bottom (see attached images).
Projector is 16’ away from the 117” diagonal 16:9 white screen. Ceiling mounted and using very small lens shift to the left and significant lens shift to the bottom, although when I reset lens shift the separation on the part of the image that I can see seems to be the same.
I wander whether it’s normal for this projector? Can anyone confirm similar artifacts or their absence on their HS5000 (or 4900)? I’d appreciate that.
The store sent a refurbished unit by mistake (252 hours on the lamp), they offered to replace it free or send me a new lamp free. Shipping new unit to Canada means paying duty and taxes, so I agreed to get the lamp, it's easier and seems like better value (got the pj for $1800). Then I noticed this colour separation issue, if it is an issue… Maybe it’s normal and you can’t get perfect convergence at this distance?
See attached images – you can’t really see the colour separation when looking from 10 feet away, but see extreme closeup and you can see it there. The source on the picture is DVI from the PC so it’s not cable (signal is digital). I have a suspicion it’s optics and not colour chips, as white pixels are quite clear, but who knows… I’d appreciate your opinions on that, and comparisons. Thanks.
http://www.romandesign.ca/ftpguest/hc5000-1.jpg
http://www.romandesign.ca/ftpguest/hc5000-2.jpg
j5627429 06-21-08, 03:21 AM Looks like your red is off by one pixel
Try the test patterns here to verify.
http://www.pbase.com/jackcnd/convergence
Also, if your source is from a Windows PC, if you have cleartype turned on it will porposely make certain colors next to the text different colors.. text will many times not be completely black when looking up close, because cleartype manimulates text on a sub-pixel level.. but in most cases it looks smoother from a distance.
Hey guys I noticed 3 dust blobs last night when I was watching a movie :(
What I'm wondering is could it just be needing to clean the lense or is it definitely trapped in there? I don't want to clean the lens if that wouldn't be the issue.
I have a couple of questions if I send back my 5000 to Mits to clean out the dust blobs is it covered under warranty, is shipping free, and how fast do they get it back to you?
Also once I get it back can someone explain how I would install the filtrete over the current air filter thanks. (this is my first projector and I don't want to experiment with anything myself yet)
j5627429 07-05-08, 01:59 PM Not sure about the warranty issue, but the filtrete method is pretty easy. Just take a nice big piece and cover the entire intake side.. but you probably should leave the cooling vents around the lens unobstructed.
Its not pretty by any means..but it gives you a nice layer of protection. make sure you're using the thin filtrete that's meant for putting over the intake of an A/C. Dont rely completely on the little sticky self adhesive strips on the filtrete.. make sure you tape all around the edges of wherever you stick the filtrete to. i used a nice big piece for mine, because of what i read earlier in this thread about dust seeping in between the cracks of the hc5000's plastic filter and the case housing.
Oh and a side benefit from having an extra filter on the outside is that you can visibly see when it gets dirty and needs a change. you probabay wont even need to clean the internal mitsubishi one.
j5627429 07-14-08, 10:52 AM In case anyone else is interested, here is what my hc5000 looks like with the 3M Filtrete material applied externally. I am just about to change it, since it has almost been 6 months, and you can see the nice brown area in front of where the intake is (on the second pic. 1st pic is a shadow). I applied the filter before I even turned it on to check out the image. Sure it looks like hell. But hey, you know when the filter is dirty AND... not a dust blob in sight.
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c265/5627429/118.jpg
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c265/5627429/117.jpg
The new HC5500 has a beefed up filter. Will that fit on this model?
Dallas777 07-16-08, 09:08 AM Nothing personal, but I don't know why you people are dickin' around with a chicken-ship setup like that 3M Stuff.
Does not Mits sell as an accessory, the beautiful and excellent HC6000 External Filter for all you HC5000 folks???
http://i143.photobucket.com/albums/r139/Shepherd777/HC6000Filter.jpg
I have over 2000 hours on my HC6000, and not a blob in sight.
Dallas777 07-17-08, 11:40 AM Got the pic working.
Bump.
Gabriel Turf 07-17-08, 08:19 PM I have been following this thread and want to know if you all think that the Mitsubishi 5000 is the best projector that can be had for ~1880 bucks brand new.
I know you are probably biased....but that's ok, just looking for some affirmation.
My current system I am upgrading from is:
Infocus IN72 480p
Pioneer 1014 receiver
Xbox 360 hd dvd
HTPC with beyond tv for HD DVR
What I have bought so far for the upgrade:
toshiba xa2 hd dvd firmware 2.8
pioneer vsx92txh receiver
*---now i need a projector----*
I will be watching most everything in HD. I also was only going up to the $1880 price point because I had read the original 5 star review on Projector Central back when the 5000 came out.
If you had $1900 for a projector would this still be the one?
Others I have seen that are close are the benq w5000 for around 2k and epson had some of the 1080 ub refurb powerlites for 2k.
Thanks in advance.
And another thing, will that hc6000 filter really fit the 5000?
I have a couple of questions if I send back my 5000 to Mits to clean out the dust blobs is it covered under warranty, is shipping free, and how fast do they get it back to you?
Also once I get it back can someone explain how I would install the filtrete over the current air filter thanks. (this is my first projector and I don't want to experiment with anything myself yet)
Septim,
I sent my 5000 back to Mitsu Warranty Center in CA dust blob cleaning was covered under warranty, my only cost was shipping to Mitsu, they paid for shipping back.
As far as the filtrete fix, this is not neccessary as Mitsu retro fitted my 5000 with the upgraded external filter (see pics below).
http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e237/jd2694/P7150153.jpg
http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e237/jd2694/P7150155.jpg
http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e237/jd2694/P7150158.jpg
Joe D
j5627429 07-20-08, 05:48 AM Nothing personal, but I don't know why you people are dickin' around with a chicken-ship setup like that 3M Stuff.
Does not Mits sell as an accessory, the beautiful and excellent HC6000 External Filter for all you HC5000 folks???
http://i143.photobucket.com/albums/r139/Shepherd777/HC6000Filter.jpg
I have over 2000 hours on my HC6000, and not a blob in sight.
The reason I chose to cover the entire intake side with filtrete was because
a) It's easier than tracking down the hc6000 filter, and its cheap enough that you can throw it away when it gets dirty (which is very obvious and easy to see).
b) It also protects against any particles that get through the cracks between the stock filter and the housing -- especially the holes around the little plastic snaps that hold it into place. Even though the hc6000 filter is upgraded, there is still not much protection against this.
Yeah well I sent my 5000 to Mits for the dust blob issue and also told them about the green line on the top and left side of the screen. He told me they would fix the convergence issue.
Today I get my projector back with a note saying they didn't fix the convergence issue and they also left 3 large, deep scratches on the top of the projector near the lens. The scratches are deep enough that they show the white undercoating of the projector.
I am pretty upset about this. Any advice on who to contact? I don't feel like going through tech support as they never seem to answer the phone or the messages you leave on their automated system.
JakeJones 08-12-08, 07:00 PM Hello, I have a chance to buy a used HC5000 for $200 that is blinking red and green lights and wont project an image. Does this most likely just need a bulb or would I just be wasting my money. Thought it might be worth a shot for $200. Thanks in advance for any input
bobpaule 08-16-08, 09:30 AM For those of you interested in fitting the HC5000 with the new multilayered "Accessory Air Filter Unit" designed for the HC6000, here is the contact.
Part number is:
Mitsubishi 761B504010 / Accessory Air Filter Unit
$18 if memory serves me well.
To order call:
1-888-307-8404
samhain1 09-07-08, 05:56 AM Hi Folks,
I have this projector and am trying to set it up using an eye-one colorometer and HCFR.
Could anyone with an HC5000 and where it has been calibrated post your settings please; Gamma (if User what alterations made), contrast, brightness, color temperature (if user what RGC contrast and brightness settings used). I would really much appreciate it as I am having a really hard time getting good readings.
In addition, I notice within the menu there is a reset button, does this put the projector back to factory settings or is there a different way of doing that possibly in a service menu?
What are your 'factory settings' incidentally as when I press the reset button by color temperature is user with numerous changes to the RGC contrast and brightness settings. Even with these tested it's nowhere near accurate and I have heard this pj specialises in near accurate greyscale, gamma and color accuracy out of the box..............except mine it would seem!!
HELP !
Kind regards
Stu
I'm also looking into the HC5000 and I'm about halfway through this thread.
I've seen earlier in this thread that there is some concern about the HC5000 not being bright enough. How would this unit do for daytime viewing (i.e. Sunday football games) in a room with a couple windows w/ slatted blinds? Would the picture still be sharp or would the ambient light make it seem dim or washed out?
I know this is pretty general but I'm just looking for impressions that users have noticed.
Thanks
David Baldwin 10-02-08, 10:12 PM samhain1,
I also have an HC5000. I have been using a Spyder2 and HCFR to calibrate my projector from my PS3. I am glad to find someone else who is working on the same project.
I saw another post of yours where your delta-E's where mostly under 2, which is better than I have been able to do so far. I am around 4. Can you share you settings?
Are you using the "Setup" menu option at all? I have an issue where blue seems to be clamping at 100IRE shifting the image to red and green, but noticed that if I use the Setup=3.75 it gets about 50% better and at setup=7.5 that problem goes away, but then my image gets really dark.
I'll probably have other questions after trying your settings.
Thanks,
Dave
Usual Suspect 11-17-08, 03:47 PM I asked for it....
Had no dust problems with my PJ.
Put a black carpet in my HC last week, was grey marble to begin with. Wanted a little bit less light reflection and more contrast.
Stupid me, after less then one week there it is, the first dust blob (at least the first one which stands out, can see a lot more with the focus/unfocus trick).
Fortunately, it can only be seen in dark scenes.:)
Unfortunately, it is right in the middle of the screen, about two inches across. :mad:
Have ordered the HC 6000 filter now and will use that from now on.
Somehow I do not want to give up the hope that the dust will be blown away over time (Firmware 4).
Will keep my fingers crossed..
samhain1 11-17-08, 05:36 PM samhain1,
I also have an HC5000. I have been using a Spyder2 and HCFR to calibrate my projector from my PS3. I am glad to find someone else who is working on the same project.
I saw another post of yours where your delta-E's where mostly under 2, which is better than I have been able to do so far. I am around 4. Can you share you settings?
Are you using the "Setup" menu option at all? I have an issue where blue seems to be clamping at 100IRE shifting the image to red and green, but noticed that if I use the Setup=3.75 it gets about 50% better and at setup=7.5 that problem goes away, but then my image gets really dark.
I'll probably have other questions after trying your settings.
Thanks,
Dave
Hi just spotted your post, here are my settings;
Gamma user cinema high 0 -4 -3 mid -2 -4 -3 low -4 -4 -4
contrast -15
bright 4
color temp user r cont 8 g cont -1 b cont -8
r bright -9 g bright +3 b bright +2
colour -1
tint 0
arc trooper 02-07-09, 07:55 PM anyone know of any lense setups for this? id love to go with one of those external lense thingys (i know my terminology sucks) to get a 2:35:1 or whatever ratio...
octogon 02-07-09, 08:46 PM If you plan to use this PJ in a Light Controlled Environment it will be bright enough , i am using the LOW lamp mode, and it is plenty bright.
I did install Black Velvet Curtains over the window, it looks good.
I'm also looking into the HC5000 and I'm about halfway through this thread.
I've seen earlier in this thread that there is some concern about the HC5000 not being bright enough. How would this unit do for daytime viewing (i.e. Sunday football games) in a room with a couple windows w/ slatted blinds? Would the picture still be sharp or would the ambient light make it seem dim or washed out?
I know this is pretty general but I'm just looking for impressions that users have noticed.
Thanks
Splotto 02-08-09, 04:59 PM If you plan to use this PJ in a Light Controlled Environment it will be bright enough , i am using the LOW lamp mode, and it is plenty bright.
I did install Black Velvet Curtains over the window, it looks good.
Hello:
I agree. I use it in a room where during the day it's far too bright (elliptical 'eyebrow' window that I just can't find a treatment for). So I don't watch dark movies during the day. :-)
At night it's perfect on LOW. No issues at all.
Splotto
Toons424 03-14-09, 02:16 PM Anyone know the best place to get a replacement lamp? Kind of steep(due to being discontinued?) from Mitsubishi themselves.
My hc5000 is at 4700 hours now.
Secondly, do I need to be worried about not being able to find replacement lamps the next time I need one, say a year and half from now? Roundabout way of asking if I should stockpile one.
bobpaule 04-19-09, 07:54 AM Anyone know the best place to get a replacement lamp? Kind of steep(due to being discontinued?) from Mitsubishi themselves.
My hc5000 is at 4700 hours now.
Secondly, do I need to be worried about not being able to find replacement lamps the next time I need one, say a year and half from now? Roundabout way of asking if I should stockpile one.
I bought all my lamps from ebay, a Japanese dealer with impeccable credentials:
http://cgi.ebay.com/Mitsubishi-VLT-HC5000LP-Lamp-for-HC5000-HC5500-HC6000_W0QQitemZ360147274530QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDom ain_0?hash=item360147274530&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=72%3A1205|66%3A2|65%3A12|39%3A1|240%3A1318|301%3A1 |293%3A1|294%3A50
A good principle is to always have a spare in your PJs box. I replace mine at 2000 hours.
Yesterday when I was going to watch a movie I saw all these dots allover my screen. I have tried both my TViX6500 and my Highdef Cablebox with same result. I tried to change my Monster1000 HDMI-cable to a shorter one but the same result. I also tried to connect my TViX6500 with component but tha same appeard.
Please help me! 400 hours on my lamp.
EDIT: When I enter the zoom/lens-shift mode the green pattern that comes up is ok with no dots.
http://www.welshforum.se/Coppermine/albums/userpics/10002/5000_1.jpg
http://www.welshforum.se/Coppermine/albums/userpics/10002/5000_2.jpg
nrfisher 05-07-09, 12:54 AM I know I'm late joining the club, but I just bought an HC5000 on eBay and I absolutely love it. I upgraded from the Mitsubishi HC1500 and even though I loved the HC1500, the image on the HC5000 is simply stunning. I thought it would be hard to make the switch from DLP to LCD but I can hardly notice a huge difference in the black levels. Definitely pleased with my purchase. I ended up getting it for $900 with only 330 hours on the current lamp and a free, brand new lamp to go with it. Now I just need to find a fixed screen to replace my pull-down. Any suggestions? I considered DIY from screen material on eBay but wasn't sure how that would turn out.
bobpaule 05-28-09, 09:43 PM I know I'm late joining the club, but I just bought an HC5000 on eBay and I absolutely love it. I upgraded from the Mitsubishi HC1500 and even though I loved the HC1500, the image on the HC5000 is simply stunning. I thought it would be hard to make the switch from DLP to LCD but I can hardly notice a huge difference in the black levels. Definitely pleased with my purchase. I ended up getting it for $900 with only 330 hours on the current lamp and a free, brand new lamp to go with it. Now I just need to find a fixed screen to replace my pull-down. Any suggestions? I considered DIY from screen material on eBay but wasn't sure how that would turn out.
Carada unless something newer and better is available. Superb quality, make sure you get the Criterion series. I installed the 110" all by myself. Make sure you have a good stud finder and good tools.
http://www.carada.com/Projection-Criterion-Series-Projector-Screens.aspx
I'm just breaking my HC5000 out of storage after a year in hiding ;) I'm very happy that it'll be up and running in a few days. I've suffered ( :) ) with the 50" LCD flat panel long enough. Hopefully I can get the screen painted tonight. I'm using MDF and the DIY Behr light gray tint.
dan
I bought all my lamps from ebay, a Japanese dealer with impeccable credentials:
http://cgi.ebay.com/Mitsubishi-VLT-HC5000LP-Lamp-for-HC5000-HC5500-HC6000_W0QQitemZ360147274530QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDom ain_0?hash=item360147274530&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=72%3A1205|66%3A2|65%3A12|39%3A1|240%3A1318|301%3A1 |293%3A1|294%3A50
A good principle is to always have a spare in your PJs box. I replace mine at 2000 hours.
Which seller were you linking? The ebay link is dead. I brought my printer out of lockdown and was surprised at the number of hours on the bulb. Better to have a backup, just in case. Thanks in advance.
Now, to figure out if the firmware needs updating.
Ok, it seems only Mitsubishi can do the upgrade??? Is this covered by warranty? Is that 2 years or 3 years? Anyone know how much it costs? How long does it take?
Thanks
studlygoorite 08-28-09, 09:53 AM My mother board just went, 6 months after warranty, and they tell me it will be 4,000.00 to fix.
Thanks Mits!!!!!
$4,000 is crazy! Did you ask about some kind of loyalty program where they'll trade you it for a newer model at a discounted price?
What happened with the motherboard? Did you have any idea it was failing?
studlygoorite 08-28-09, 03:26 PM $4,000 is crazy! Did you ask about some kind of loyalty program where they'll trade you it for a newer model at a discounted price?
What happened with the motherboard? Did you have any idea it was failing?
There was no advance indication, powered it on, the whites were pink and lines followed what was supposed to be white around the screen. I was told traces were burnt and the LCD optical block (green) need replacing. Regarding loyalty, the resaler indicated it wasn't going to happen, however I will contact Mitubishi.
Sorry about the loss, but hopefully Mitsubishi does something for you. I would try going up the ladder a little, and don't believe what the reseller tells you. After all, he makes nothing if you buy direct ;)
I'm getting ready to build an enclosure for my 5000. Is their a thread on projector enclosures somewhere?
SSPC v1.2 is now available for Download. v1.2 is the first version that has several PQ controls on one page for easy projector/display calibration.
NOTE: SSPC was developed and tested on Windows XP (Support for Vista is not confirmed).
v1.2 - 01/27/2008
+Added Internal PQ Calibration Control Support for Mitsubishi Projectors (tested on HC3000, HC4900*).
+Added Serial Communication Error Handling
+Several Internal Code Changes.
*HC1500, HC5000 and HC6000 should work as well (and other Mitsubishi Models or Projectors that support their Serial Codes).
Download Link is available HERE IN THIS THREAD (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=977617):
http://i179.photobucket.com/albums/w288/THESoulPimp/SSPC/SSPC-Main-v1-2.jpg
Enjoy
-Shawn
Hi Shawn,
Does this program upgrade the Firmware? If not, can I put in a request for that? I'm not a big computer guy so I might be talking out of my butt, but shouldn't the firmware updates be readable/viewable to a computer guy like yourself? If you could see what the firmware changes were, and add them to the your program it would save me from having to send it in for updates (though I'd still have that dust blob :( ).
Anyway, thanks for your hard work.
Hi,
Has Mits updated the firmware? LOL I have not kept up on the Mits though I own one myself and was working on various things last year.. right now, my energy is on the Pioneer and Panasonic support...
I bought mine before they came out so I'm positive that my firmware is OLD. It would be a HUGE benefit to me to not have to send my HC5000 to Mitsubishi - and I'm sure every other owner out there too! :cool:
Thanks
arc trooper 10-18-09, 02:51 PM ok heres a PROBLEM went to go turn on my pj today...and heard a tiny pop sound...hmmm didnt think anything of of it.. well... now when it trys to turn on and fire all i hear is this annoying clicking sond and the lamp wont turn on... please anyone else have this problem? btw the lamp indicator isnt showing a replace lamp code...im gonna buy a new lamp just to see but anyone else have this issue?
ok heres a PROBLEM went to go turn on my pj today...and heard a tiny pop sound...hmmm didnt think anything of of it.. well... now when it trys to turn on and fire all i hear is this annoying clicking sond and the lamp wont turn on... please anyone else have this problem? btw the lamp indicator isnt showing a replace lamp code...im gonna buy a new lamp just to see but anyone else have this issue?
Although if you replace the lamp and that's not the issue with yours you are out $300+ , it sounds like the same thing that happened to mine. I sent it in for service and it was the lamp.
EDIT: I should add that when I sent mine in for service they upgraded the Filter to the new style for free.
arc trooper 10-18-09, 04:18 PM thanks! i found a lamp for 100 bux...think ill go with it
thanks! i found a lamp for 100 bux...think ill go with it
$100!!! :eek:
Please post a link so I can buy a spare (or just PM me ;) )
Thanks
$100!!! :eek:
Please post a link so I can buy a spare (or just PM me ;) )
Thanks
I would like to know where to get such a great deal too if you could shoot me a PM please.
Thanks,
Jim
arc trooper 10-19-09, 11:53 PM its a used one... but gauranteeed 210 hrs on it... but for 100 bux nice to have a spare! just ebay the mod # of your pj
its a used one... but gauranteeed 210 hrs on it... but for 100 bux nice to have a spare! just ebay the mod # of your pj
How does the "warranty" work? There's no meter on the bulb, the clock is inside the projector. So there is no way to know if it's used for 1 hour or 1,000 hours. And, if it burns out, won't the seller just say "it happens sometimes"?
arc trooper 11-10-09, 08:14 PM ok guys heres my problem AND ITS MESSED UP! i bought a new bulb and attempted to put it in...and whammo....its jammed in there any ideas?
and no its not upside down.. :)
arc trooper 11-11-09, 05:33 AM nvm i got it in :)
Cool! I sure didn't have a suggestion for you ;)
So, how does the warranty on a used bulb work?
arc trooper 11-11-09, 01:30 PM well i got the bulb...let me tell ya... messed up! so i sent it back and bought a new one for 244 which was a pain in the ass to get in there was really really really tight
well i got the bulb...let me tell ya... messed up! so i sent it back and bought a new one for 244 which was a pain in the ass to get in there was really really really tight
Messed up? How? Which seller did you buy from?
The new one, it's not a perfect match for the OEM size-wise? Where did you buy it?
Thanks
bobpaule 11-28-09, 09:41 AM VLT-HC5000LP
If the above and Made in Japan are not on the box it's a fakie. This is how it should look like:
http://sunny-life.net/data/mitsubishi/vlt-hc5000lp_b.jpg
And if ebay, make sure it is a high volume Jap dealer, ie thousands or above goood ratings.
rnrgagne 11-28-09, 12:27 PM Any 5000 owners that can help me with this problem?;
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1200537
aakrusen 01-08-10, 06:55 PM I just got my refurbished Mits HC5000 on Tuesday (1/5/10) and I got it all installed and calibrated for my setup. The picture looks great and everything works. However, when I switch sources on my receiver (Onkyo TX-SR705) the projector shuts down with the power and status light blinking a pattern of colors. I referred to the owner's manual and based on the led pattern of the two lights, I come up with an "abnormal" condition and I should "contact the manufacturer". I tried using 3 different lengths of HDMI cables (20ft, 10ft, and 6ft) all with the same results. I also plugged the PS3 directly to the projector and it will do that shutdown thing when changing from the lenshift/focus screen back to the PS3. Has anyone else had this problem?
That sucks. Did you get it fixed?
aakrusen 01-16-10, 09:41 AM It's at Mitsubishi right now. Hopefully I'll get it back within the week.
Forceflow 01-15-11, 05:31 PM good luck. After 2 years of ownership, I finally replaced my bulb. What an adventure. Now I need to recalibrate and adjust. If someone gets a clicking noise after installing their bulb, either their bulb is bad or they didn't shove it into the unit fully. Try to shove (gently) more before freaking out and returning the bulb. Knock-off chinese bulbs seem to work as well as the original japanese one I got. Go figure.
aakrusen 01-16-11, 12:47 AM I don't recall how fast I got the projector back from Mitsu but it has worked flawlessly ever since. I'm at about 1035 hours in a years' time so hopefully I won't need a new bulb for another 3-4 years.
rgathright 01-16-11, 09:31 AM I am having a lamp issue with my HC6000 similar to the ones in this thread. I have had this pj since 2008 and have sent it back to Mits twice. The issue is most of the time (there is no rhyme or reason) the lamp will not fire up fully when I start it. I usually have to turn the pj off and on several times to get it fired up. The first time I sent it to Mits service they was to change out a circuit board, but the problem came back again about 6 months later. The second time they changed the lamp, but the problem started up again a few months later. Instead of sending it back to Mits I just setup a routine to get it started.
Now that I have bought a new Mits lamp (same as the box that is shown in this thread) the startup is different. Now when the pj will not start up I turn it off and (after a minute or two) turn it back on. When I turn it back on it tries to start, but turns itself off instead after trying. No light at all comes out at all when I try the second time. What I do then is to unplug the pj and wait a few minutes and then try again. Most of the time it will start up full then.
Any ideas? I was hoping to keep this pj until the end of the year.
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