Well it's finely here and I only got to spend a small amount of time playing because I had to go to work. I will give my quick down and dirty first impressions and add in-depth later. Open the box and I see a small cheap looking remote. My first thought was that it's a secondary remote. It is very small and cheep looking for a $15,000 (or a $59.95 CD player for that matter) projector. I will say that it works well is back lighted and is very ergonomic. The projector itself is absolutely beautiful with great fit and fantastic finish. It truly looks great and extrudes high end by its appearance alone. The hookups are recessed and might be a little tough for people with big fingers. I fired it up feed 1080p 60Hz (from my HTPC) and the picture synced up but it had tears a was very wobbly. Try as I might adjusting porch, sync, and other settings I could not get it stabilized. Finely gave up and tried 48Hz and perfect (50Hz also). Since I plan to use 48Hz 95% of the time I will try to figure out 60Hz later (maybe tonight). Only had a few minutes of screen time and it is still daylight so I can only give basic impressions. The picture is super smooth, very non digital, and film like which is what I like about DILA. It seems to be a fair amount brighter (off axis) than my G11 but since I changed to a HP screen it is hard to tell. Can't wait until I get home to night to fire up and test.



I will also edit this thread and add links and other info to help present (or there any others) and future HD10K owners.

William,

What cable are you using and how long is it? 1080p/60hz pushes DVI to the limit. This sounds like a cable problem.

William

William,

What cable are you using and how long is it? 1080p/60hz pushes DVI to the limit. This sounds like a cable problem.

William
My cable is a 50' optical (http://www.digitalconnection.com/products/cables/ddi.asp) so I know it not the cable (also tested on my HP 2335 monitor at 1080x1200 60Hz). I ran Spy Sweaper before I went to bed last night and the HTPC locked while reading a ATI video file. So I may have a corrupt file related to my drivers. I'm going to download the latest Catalyst drivers today and see if that works.

My cable is a 50' optical so I know it not the cable (also tested on my HP 2335 monitor at 1080x1200 60Hz). I ran Spy Sweaper before I went to bed last night and the HTPC locked while reading a ATI video file. So I may have a corrupt file related to my drivers. I'm going to download the latest Catalyst drivers today and see if that works.

Also let me know the most ideal time that works best for you to send my HD10K. Although it looks like you already did it. ;)

Congrats William! I hope you enjoy the projector. It is truly an awesome machine. You have got to watch real 1080i/p sources with it (try INHD or INHD2). The color is absolutely unreal! I finally got a chance to use the serial port on my Meridian 800/861 so I'll try it on my projector and let you know my findings. I can't wait for my screen to come in. I'll basically be done by next week or the week after. My rack and cables should all be in soon and I'm just waiting for my screen.

I've ordered a Purelink OC (black fiber optic) DVI-DVI cable. It's similar to the one that you purchased. I'll let you know how that goes as well.

Kudos and congrats!

Best regards,
Chris

Congrats William! I hope you enjoy the projector. It is truly an awesome machine. You have got to watch real 1080i/p sources with it (try INHD or INHD2). The color is absolutely unreal! I finally got a chance to use the serial port on my Meridian 800/861 so I'll try it on my projector and let you know my findings. I can't wait for my screen to come in. I'll basically be done by next week or the week after. My rack and cables should all be in soon and I'm just waiting for my screen.

I've ordered a Purelink OC (black fiber optic) DVI-DVI cable. It's similar to the one that you purchased. I'll let you know how that goes as well.

Kudos and congrats!

Best regards,
Chris

I removed Catalyst and 60Hz now works great even though 48Hz will be the standard to completely avoid Bob. Next I'm going to remove PowerStrip and reinstall Catalyst. I have over a 150 trailers of TS, Quick Time, Divx, and WMV that are 720p, 1080i, or 1080p. The picture is fantastically smooth, vibrant but still very non digital and film like plus it's almost too detailed, even before William's calibration. The problem I see now is that DVD (and even many OTA HD sources) don't look very good compared to high qulity 1080p metrial because of the huge deference in PQ exposed by the HD10K. The deference was not near as dynamic on my G11U. One caveat I have with my cable is that it's orange and looks like a cheep extension cord (I must run it on the floorboard). Wonder if there is a way to paint it black? I have the Gamma Wizard (http://www.jvcdig.com/index.html) and may play with. I just don't want to mess anything up.

William,

Question: How are you planning on mounting your HD10K? I have to mount mine inversed and the only manufacturer that I could find is Premier Mounts (http://www.premiermounts.com/product.asp?productID=5075&partID=1304). I have to wall mount mine (wall bracket and arm to pj plate) because above my drop-ceiling it's all steel I-beam and steel girders/trusses. There is NO WOOD. Thus my only options are:

1. Solder/weld a pipe to the ceiling.
2. Mount it using a wall mount and arm(s).

I prefer use the latter method for it's ease and simplicity. Welding a pipe is easy but undoing any mistakes is not. Not to mention that if I had to remove it and remount the pipe, it would be a major PAIN. The mounting plate for the HD10K is the same as the MF1 afaik but do you know any other companies that have this? Peerless and Chief do not have it on their site and neither does Omnimount.

BTW, RS232 control of both projector and processor work without a hitch. I used Hyperterminal set at 19200bps, 8 data bits, no parity, 1 stop bit and no flow control. Your HD10K SHOULD support this. If you need anything else, let me know.

Mr. Phelps,
I am thoroughly enjoying the Optimized Experience. I have a question about the DVP1080MF scaler/vp. What is the difference between high-bandwith and full-bandwith modes and why is it that I can't select screen ratio when it's in full-bandwith? I notice a slight loss in sharpness/detail and saturation in high-bandwith. I need to be able to use the Letterbox mode for 2.35. Any suggestions/comments?

CChoi,

Have you heard of devices called 'beam clamps'? There are a number of easy ways to attach to steel beams and girders which do not require drilling or welding. Drop me a note if you'd like to know more.

Cheers,

CChoi83

I have a Da-lite high power screen which requires the projector to be mounted as close to eye level as possible. I have an old audio stand that I'm using (pic below). I temporarily stacked a couple of shelves to raise it up. I still get head shadows if I don't recline and set straight up. I have a friend who does wood work as a hobby and is going to build me an extension to set it on.

I got the JVC Gamma Wizard and it works fine except it would not turn the power off for some reason. I will give Hyperterminal a try later on.

I also can't wait to have mine back from William but don't look forward to sending it (being without).


http://photos.imageevent.com/williamjulien/hd10k/huge/HD10K.jpg

CChoi,

Have you heard of devices called 'beam clamps'? There are a number of easy ways to attach to steel beams and girders which do not require drilling or welding. Drop me a note if you'd like to know more.

Cheers,

Yes, I know of the clamps but location of the I-beams are not in the vicinity of where I want to place my projector. That is the problem. Thanks though.

William, I see your point (no pun intended). BTW, what sources are you feeding it? It's odd because when I first got it, I hooked it up directly to my Meridian 800v4 and it worked without problems. The thing is, the HDMI card on my 800 outputs max. 1080i, not 1080p. I'm using my scaler now so it's outputting 1080p/60 to the pj. Strange.

-Chris-

Question: How are you planning on mounting your HD10K? I have to mount mine inversed and the only manufacturer that I could find is Premier Mounts

CHris,

Why not just build a shelf on the wall and rest the projector on that? Whatever you do you need to make sure there is adequate space behind it for ventilation.

Chief does have a mount for the HD10K and DILA1080-MF1 - I got one from AV Science. Just ask Jason.

William

CHris,

Why not just build a shelf on the wall and rest the projector on that? Whatever you do you need to make sure there is adequate space behind it for ventilation.

Chief does have a mount for the HD10K and DILA1080-MF1 - I got one from AV Science. Just ask Jason.

William

Mr. Phelps,

Yes, that was my original plan but I scratched that idea. I don't think it would look too good. Easiest way would be to install two shelf brackets and mount a piece of shelving/wood/mdf on it, then just mount the MF1 inversed. One small problem would be the strength of the shelf. As it would have to be fairly deep and wide and I think it would sag after a while. Perhaps you could give me some ideas. If it was a clean design, I wouldn't mind doing a DIY job. I just hope my metal studs aren't off center. I knew I should've gotten my ceiling drywalled instead but there was way too much work involved. I have a bunch of HVAC ducts going across my ceiling for 1st floor and basement systems and I would've had to rereoute all of it to the sides of the room. A bit too much work and $. It would've delayed the room for a good couple of weeks. My father just wanted to get it over with asap (there's a lot of other work being done, even though the house is brand new).

I'll check with Chief and give Jason a call. Their website didn't have it listed. Thanks again Mr. Phelps.

Best regards,
Chris

Strangely, I can choose the aspect ratio's in Full-Bandwidth mode when I'm watching DVD's but not when I'm watching cable tv. Both are outputting 1080i through HDMI and to the MF processor through DVI. Wierd.

Hi William

Thanks for your comments on the HD10KA. As soon as I saw it announced, it moved to the top of my list as a replacement for my existing JVC HX1.

Did you buy just the projector head, or do you have the JVC HD1K scaler as well?

You mention running the projector from your HTPC at 1080p/48Hz which is perfect for SD DVD's, but I will still have to input HD satellite and HD-DVD at 720p or 1080i so I assume I will need an external scaler, even if not the JVC version. As my upgrade is also part of a move to a constant height cinemascope screen, I will also need vertical scaling at 1080p to make the lens work.

How do you plan to cope with the none 1080p sources?

PJG

Hi William

Thanks for your comments on the HD10KA. As soon as I saw it announced, it moved to the top of my list as a replacement for my existing JVC HX1.

Did you buy just the projector head, or do you have the JVC HD1K scaler as well?

You mention running the projector from your HTPC at 1080p/48Hz which is perfect for SD DVD's, but I will still have to input HD satellite and HD-DVD at 720p or 1080i so I assume I will need an external scaler, even if not the JVC version. As my upgrade is also part of a move to a constant height cinemascope screen, I will also need vertical scaling at 1080p to make the lens work.

How do you plan to cope with the none 1080p sources?

PJG
I bought just the head unit and no scaler. It only has one input that excepts 1080p 48Hz, 50Hz, or 60Hz only. I have it hooked to my HTPC (DVD, Fusion HD, and lots of HD trailers) and use 48Hz (is perfect for all film not just DVD) for all film and 60Hz for all video. I plan to buy a (universal hopefully before year end) HD-DVD/Blu-ray ROM (or burner) drive. Not much for games but thinking about a X-Box 360 and it only outputs 1080i so at some point will probably be forced to buy a scaler. I'm also waiting on the next batch of Denon receivers to see if they have HDMI(1.3)/DVI to HDMI (not just analog to HDMI as now)scaling and DD True/DTS HD.

Tomorrow night I'm going to watch T2 WMV-HD and can't wait. :eek:

Hi

Thanks for the the information. I thought you had only bought the head. It is what I plan to do as by the end of the year, I should be able to build a new HTPC under Microsoft Vista that gives HD-DVD playback. Mine you, it is not yet clear if all the nice tools such as Powerstrip, ffdshow etc. will work in the new world of secure digital playback, but we can but hope.

In the mean time, I am reading posts on the scaler section as I still have the problem of the HD Satellite as there are no PC cards yet that will allow me to use my Premier HD smart card to watch the Worlds Cup in HD TV.

PJG

Hey guys- How large a screen can you use with this PJ- I want to maximize my space and am looking into the screen research 140" wide CH screen(153" diag.)- Is this screen to big for this PJ or would it be ok- thanks,gary

Hey guys- How large a screen can you use with this PJ- I want to maximize my space and am looking into the screen research 140" wide CH screen(153" diag.)- Is this screen to big for this PJ or would it be ok- thanks,gary
WOW that is a HUGE screen. I have a 116" wide Da-lite HP screen and it is very bright (even with some daylight light spill). At 700 lumens the HD10K is no light cannon but if you have total light control, your screen has over 1 gain (preferably HP), and using an anamorphic lens it should be sufficient.

In my opinion you would need a pair of HD10K's for that size screen. Even with 1.3 gain screen you'd only have 10 foot lamberts, and that with a new lamp. With the SR screen you're looking at 7.5 foot lamberts.

hey guys- what is the largest screen I can go with for this PJ OR if I wanted to maximize the size what PJ would you rec. for this size screen- thanks for all the help- gary

William, congrats on this fine new addition to your home theater. :)

William, congrats on this fine new addition to your home theater. :)
Thanks Mark,

So far it looks fantastic. It still has to make a trip to William's for optimization. Something I'm not looking forward to especially with all the Ruby's lining up.

the SC even at 0.95 eats a lot of light indeed.
however a 1.4gain screen (if it's 1.4) gives back a lot of lumens, perceived, as it concentrates brigthness back to the audience, more than a 1.0 gain screen and a 1000ansi pj. this is really something that always stunned me. i recently saw monsters with 4000-6000ansi on 3-4meters 16/9 screens and wasnt at all impressed by the brigthness even in demo rooms that were almost closed. bottom line: 500-700ansi + 40% gain in a black room are well enough to give punchy images on a 120" 16/9 or 170" scope.
I had the HD10K for a few hrs some months ago for test and a 120" wide image in my 1.4 gain screen mperforated, in a 100% black room, had tremendous punch...

the HD10K can without problems light up a 171" scope screen (with an ISCO) providing the screen has a good gain and the room is black. the colors are extraordinary (superior to the VW100) and the contrast (tested with HD) was superb.

I bought a few weeks ago this projector. In my previous projector I was able to change the "tint" (=hue) of some movies, but in this projector that function is disable. Does anyone know why is it disable? And how to enable it?
Thanks

I bought a few weeks ago this projector. In my previous projector I was able to change the "tint" (=hue) of some movies, but in this projector that function is disable. Does anyone know why is it disable? And how to enable it?
Thanks

Correct me if I'm wrong William or Tom but just like the HD10K has no internal scaler it also has no internal signal processing so you can't adjust things like tint. You would need to do that with your scaler or HTPC.

Also you say it is disabled but there is no setting at all for tint in the menu.

That is correct - adjustments such as Tint are expected to be done by an external processor, a feature I rather like.

Noticed that the masking system is hardware instead of software. I guess this is because the HD10K doesn't do any signal processing. Wonder why JVC didn't offer a 2.35 masking setting? Also mine seems to be a little off on the right side. Not that it is anything I need or would use unless it did 2.35.

That is correct - adjustments such as Tint are expected to be done by an external processor, a feature I rather like.

Yes you are right. The scaler that comes with the projector (in my case the LD-HD1KE) offers the possibitily in the picture control to change the HUE (=tint), but that option is disabled. Is there anyway to enable that option?

Thanks.

According to UPS my HD10K is now in the hands of the master. William, just go ahead and rake all those Ruby's off the shelf and on the floor to make room for mine. Just don't step on any of them while you are carrying my projector. ;)

William is through with my HD10K and I should be in business by the weekend.. Here are the shading and color uniformity charts. How do they look? Also a quote from William Phelps


...I can tell you it looks fabulous. I always watch 30 minutes or so of material I am very familiar with after I am done - what a great job I have!


http://photos.imageevent.com/williamjulien/hd10k/huge/hd10k_1_.091B0057.before.D65.gN.jpg
http://photos.imageevent.com/williamjulien/hd10k/huge/hd10k_2_.091B0057.pass5tt.d65.gA.jpg
http://photos.imageevent.com/williamjulien/hd10k/huge/hd10k_2_.091B0057.shading.jpg

William obviously does great work, but man, including your name within the program screens? It's right up there with capitalizing every use of "Optimized" (yes, I know it's a trade name).

Oh kay.

William obviously does great work, but man, including your name within the program screens? It's right up there with capitalizing every use of "Optimized" (yes, I know it's a trade name).

Oh kay.
I don't think a little customization at making your charts look more professional is over the top or tacky. But then if you had a name like William you would want to show it off too. ;)

Amazing work Mr. Phelps and congrats to you William!

BTW, the PureLink cable works flawlessly.

I don't think a little customization at making your charts look more professional is over the top or tacky. But then if you had a name like William you would want to show it off too. ;)

You mean like William, The Conqueror?

Here is a bio of him: http://www.spartacus.schoolnet.co.uk/MEDwilliam1.htm

Don't forget, the emperor has no clothes!

Mark (Marcus Aurelius)

WOW, it's true that William does do magic. I decided to have my HD10K optimized but thought the results would be subtle at best. Maybe it is my imagination but the picture seems to have much more depth and pop. I have only had a chance to watch one movie (Moulin Rouge (I also have new B&W speakers so had to have audio as well)) a some concert video (Eagles Farewell and Diana Krall) though but it sure was impressive. I will try some HD content tonight.

http://photos.imageevent.com/williamjulien/hd10k/huge/HT06.jpg

William is through with my HD10K and I should be in business by the weekend.. Here are the shading and color uniformity charts. How do they look?

http://photos.imageevent.com/williamjulien/hd10k/huge/hd10k_1_.091B0057.before.D65.gN.jpg


Wm's after calibration charts always look fantastic, but what I find most interesting is the before calibration data on a HD10K. It's the first real data on a HD10K that I've seen and it's pretty darn good. JVC factory cal has come a long way...

Wow a sticker! Just like car dealers who want free advertising by plunking their dealership emblem on the back of a brand new vehicle. I certainly hope he got your permission before doing that.

That chart does look nice tho'.

Play nice gentlemen. AND HOW COME I DON'T GET A STICKER!? I feel so left out now. :(

Chris

Curious on what the future of 24p for BD/HD and how to handle it with the HD10K. Will the HD10K accept a 24Hz input (not documented but neither is 48Hz)? If it did would it double to 48Hz? If not will the players offer 48Hz output (I don't think the Sammy does)? Are there any other undocumented scan rates the HD10K will take like 72Hz?

William,

The HD10K itself only handles 48, 50 and 60Hz inputs, but if you use an external scaler/processor that doubles 24p or 24psf to 48 then you're fine. The new HQV based processor that we're shipping now does this. 72Hz is definitely NOT supported...no reason for it to be as going to a higher multiple of 24hz is not beneficial in any way and is not supported at 1920x1080 over single link DVI or HDMI.

Cheers,

Tom,
Where have you been? In hindsight the 72Hz questions does seems a little dumb. :eek:

William,

Where have I been...vacation, 4000 mile trip on the M/C, working, educating the unwashed masses, the usual stuff...

Nah, not a dumb question, it will take generations to cleanse our minds of the last vestiges of "CRT think".

Tom,
What do you guys have planned for on off site displays at CEDIA ?

Art

Art S.
I hope they have a laser d-ila cooking. :)

Art,

I don't know much more than the fact we'll have an off-site demo area near the CEDIA site. I'll post further info here once I get some details. I'll be there, look forward to seeing any and all.

Mattias, thanks for the reminder...I almost forgot to pack my laser pointer...

Mr Stites
Please forgive my repetitive nature but since JVC stated their intent on laser illumination of d-ila panels already in the first years of this millenium I am patiently hoping .... It was for digital cinema but most technologies migrate to lower cost systems.
Today the situation is different as noted by Insight media, now several companies are going laser. Two have stated so publically, Mitsubishi and Samsung. Since d-ila and sxrd stand to gain more from laser illumination than dlp it makes sense to me to nurture hopes of a brilliant future.

Anyone planning a JVC meet at Cedia denver? I will be there and would love to meet up with anyone who wants to...


I want to buy the 10k or the 2k, besides the 10k supporting 48hz 1080p (I understand that the 2k will only accept 50 and 60 1080p?) are there any other reason to pay the extra $4000 dollars over the 2k? I love JVC and am getting one of these 1080p projectors, just trying to find out if the 1ok is worth the extra money. I plan to use it for HD DVD and SDI SD DVD.

That bring up another question: does the farjoudia processor that ship with the 2k or 10k accept SDI input (or can it added to it)?

Jon,

The Faroudja processor does not accept SDI, but we are now offering another processor by Silicon Optix that offers an HD-SDI/SDI input. It also supports driving the HD10K at 48Hz. Unless you already have a DVD player that has SDI output, I wouldn't obsess over that feature. HDMI output from current SD and HD DVD players makes SDI more or less irrelevant.

Other advantages of the HD10K include marginally better brightness, contrast and colorimetry. Short and long-throw zooms, adjustable offset, centered lens and quieter operation may or may not be relevant given your particular installation.

Cheers,

...Other advantages of the HD10K include marginally better brightness, contrast and colorimetry. Short and long-throw zooms, adjustable offset, centered lens and quieter operation may or may not be relevant given your particular installation.

Cheers,
...add much better looking case.

The 2k will not accept 48hz correct?

Also I already a have an Iscan HD+ and a Yamaha CX1 changer with SDI mod (thanks Gary Murrell).

Is the 2k or 10k available without a processor? Would the Iscan HD+ be good at sending a 1080p 60 output to say the 2k? Would the 10k with another processor be worth the extra money?

Thanks

The 2k will not accept 48hz correct?

Also I already a have an Iscan HD+ and a Yamaha CX1 changer with SDI mod (thanks Gary Murrell).

Is the 2k or 10k available without a processor? Would the Iscan HD+ be good at sending a 1080p 60 output to say the 2k? Would the 10k with another processor be worth the extra money?

Thanks
The HD2K won't accept 48Hz.

Both are available with or without a processor.

I have a iScan 30 (also available with the HD's) but don't like it because it doesn't have 1080p pass-through or 1080 deinterlacing (it does field scaling instead). The iScan HD+ does the same.

So the Iscan's convert 1080 into 540p is that what your saying? I noticed on my 1080p JVC RPTV that when I fed the 1080i from my Tosh Xa1 that my HD+ killed the picture but I thought the HD+ would not do that if i could use 1080p.

So even the vp30 will not pass thru 1080p without destroying it?

So the Iscan's convert 1080 into 540p is that what your saying? I noticed on my 1080p JVC RPTV that when I fed the 1080i from my Tosh Xa1 that my HD+ killed the picture but I thought the HD+ would not do that if i could use 1080p.

So even the vp30 will not pass thru 1080p without destroying it?
First the iScan will not destroy 1080p because it won't even accept a 1080p input at all. iScan says that they MAY have a firmware update soon to allow 1080p pass-through in the 30 (turning blue holding my breath). The maximum input you can have is 1080i. What it does with 1080i signal is field scaling. It takes each 1920x540 field and scales to it 1920x1080 and feeds this to the projector. It is pseudo 1080p deinterlacing. iScan doesn't make a 1080 deinterlace.

What is the diffrence between this projector and Meridians DILA1080MF1?

What is the diffrence between this projector and Meridians DILA1080MF1?
It is a OEMed HD10K. So internally they are the same.

They are the same projector except that the Meridian comes calibrated by William Phelps, which is one heck of a selling point.

Okey, same projector and about the same price... The calibration Mr William Phelps does is not depending on the room environment where the projector is going to play?

Okey, same projector and about the same price... The calibration Mr William Phelps does is not depending on the room environment where the projector is going to play?
No, see the before and after charts of my HD10K optimization a few posts up.

Okey, it will be interesting to see the Meridian IRL in a couple of weeks at the Meridian plant in England!!

Great work William...

and you know... you have the right to sing as many time you like.


thanks for the results....

Infrared

So if i understand you right there is no differences between the JVC and the Meridian exept for the outstanding calibration that Mr William Phelps does...

In my opinion you would need a pair of HD10K's for that size screen. Even with 1.3 gain screen you'd only have 10 foot lamberts, and that with a new lamp. With the SR screen you're looking at 7.5 foot lamberts.

Is there a particular screen that mates best to this projector? Given a totally light controlled room and a 9 or 10 ft. wide screen. I've been looking at this as my next projector.

Chris

The calibration Mr William Phelps does is not depending on the room environment where the projector is going to play?There is some interaction with the room, depending on color. The light that can bounce back to the screen can change the white balance slightly. I believe the calibration is for the StudioTek 130 screen, a different screen can affect calibration.

Is there a particular screen that mates best to this projector? Given a totally light controlled room and a 9 or 10 ft. wide screen. I've been looking at this as my next projector.

Chris
I'm using a 133" HP Da-lite and it works very well. No hotspotting and a bright sharp picture edge to edge. One caveat you must mount the projector near head height for it to work. Trug has a excellent review of screens here (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?s=&threadid=228371) just don't ask him any projector questions because he only knows one word when it comes to them. :D

I'm using a 133" HP Da-lite and it works very well. No hotspotting and a bright sharp picture edge to edge. One caveat you must mount the projector near head height for it to work. Trug has a excellent review of screens here (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?s=&threadid=228371) just don't ask him any projector questions because he only knows one word when it comes to them. :D

Thanks for the info. I should've mentioned also that I'll be using/needing a perforated screen.

Chris

There is some interaction with the room, depending on color. The light that can bounce back to the screen can change the white balance slightly. I believe the calibration is for the StudioTek 130 screen, a different screen can affect calibration.

Sounds great! I have a totally light controlled room and a StudioTek 130 so it will probably work just fine then... :D

Get a StudioTek 130. I recommend it and I know because I have it with the MF1.

Get a StudioTek 130. I recommend it and I know because I have it with the MF1.

Is yours perforated?

I own a 9 ft wide Firehawk non-perf. and a G11 currently. It puts up a totally satisfying image, but.........now that I'm doing a new HT and will be needing a perf. screen, the 130 may make better sense because of the 10% light loss.

Chris

Is yours perforated?

I own a 9 ft wide Firehawk non-perf. and a G11 currently. It puts up a totally satisfying image, but.........now that I'm doing a new HT and will be needing a perf. screen, the 130 may make better sense because of the 10% light loss.

Chris

No, mine it not perforated. My HT is also my listening room so all my speakers are freestanding. No in-walls here. You might want to consider something like a Videomatte instead because perf. screens tend to have a lower gain than their non-perforated counterparts. You can always have it recalibrated for a different gain.

A 1.5 gain screen in a light controlled room? Probably not for me. One of the reasons I went to the Firehawk is because I like what it did for blacks and the fact that it was a little less 'in your face'. My seating distance will only be about 11 to 12 ft. to screen.

A 1.5 gain screen in a light controlled room? Probably not for me. One of the reasons I went to the Firehawk is because I like what it did for blacks and the fact that it was a little less 'in your face'. My seating distance will only be about 11 to 12 ft. to screen.

Well, the reason why I bought up the Videomatte is because even though non-perf and perf versions of the same screen STATE that they have the same gain, many times the perf. versions seem to be lower on Stewart screens. I think Stewart states somewhere on their site that's their perf. screens have a 10.2% light loss. Not sure if that's just an average figure for all their screens or for just the StudioTek 130. Ask around in the Stewart thread over in the Screens area of the forum.

I also recommend a ST130. I've tried Da Lite HP and a Greyhawk, but one thing that bugs me about most of these other screens are "sparklies". The ST130 has no screen artifacting whatsoever. There is nothing in the screen to distract the viewer and there is also no color shifts so if the projector is D65 calibrated you'll get good colors.

G'day from Down-Under (cheezey i know)

Two things.

1. Is there a solution available to ceiling mount the 10k without keystoning the image? We've tried cranking the lens offset on our showroom projector, and the keystoning becomes quite noticable. (unless it was caused by mislevelling of our little test projector stand) I'd love to sell the JVC to more clients but am finding the centre mount option quit restrictive with the relatively low screen positions we have to deal with.

2. We ran a cross hatch test pattern from a VP30 into a demo unit we recieved and noticed a misconvergance between the R,G,B lines by at least a couple pixels at it's worst. Horizontal lines seemed to misconverge pretty evenly from right to left (with the right side being almost spot on). We returned the demo unit, as since purchased our 10k. JVC said they checked the projector and it was within spec. Does anyone else notice this kind of thing? Is it normal? Our cusotm projector stand should be arriving in a couple weeks, so i'll be able to set up with the new unit at that time.

Thanks for the help!

G'day from Down-Under (cheezey i know)

Two things.

1. Is there a solution available to ceiling mount the 10k without keystoning the image? We've tried cranking the lens offset on our showroom projector, and the keystoning becomes quite noticable. (unless it was caused by mislevelling of our little test projector stand) I'd love to sell the JVC to more clients but am finding the centre mount option quit restrictive with the relatively low screen positions we have to deal with.

2. We ran a cross hatch test pattern from a VP30 into a demo unit we recieved and noticed a misconvergance between the R,G,B lines by at least a couple pixels at it's worst. Horizontal lines seemed to misconverge pretty evenly from right to left (with the right side being almost spot on). We returned the demo unit, as since purchased our 10k. JVC said they checked the projector and it was within spec. Does anyone else notice this kind of thing? Is it normal? Our cusotm projector stand should be arriving in a couple weeks, so i'll be able to set up with the new unit at that time.

Thanks for the help!
As I recall, the image shift is limited to vertical, and not too much. If you are experiencing keystoning, I would look to projector level, then screen, there is no keystone adjustment on the projector (useless anyway on a digital pj).

All three-chip displays have some convergence misalignment, some more than others. Pretty much depends on how much they spent to get it right. I am not sure what the "within specification" number is, it could be 2 pixels or more. Just depends on their quality control and acceptable/achievable manufacturing tolerances and how many expected returns they forecast.

Thanks for that. It's kindof what i figured... Altho i was hoping somebody made "corrective optics" or something in that regard to optically correct for keystoning.

Cheers

...2. We ran a cross hatch test pattern from a VP30 into a demo unit we recieved and noticed a misconvergance between the R,G,B lines by at least a couple pixels at it's worst. Horizontal lines seemed to misconverge pretty evenly from right to left (with the right side being almost spot on). We returned the demo unit, as since purchased our 10k. JVC said they checked the projector and it was within spec. Does anyone else notice this kind of thing? Is it normal? Our cusotm projector stand should be arriving in a couple weeks, so i'll be able to set up with the new unit at that time.

Thanks for the help!
My red is a about 1/2 pixel off on the right side. Two pixels off sounds pretty bad. You do know that you can adjust the individual panel convergences in 1 pixel increments. This may be off or you should be able to align within 1 pixel.

My red is a about 1/2 pixel off on the right side. Two pixels off sounds pretty bad. You do know that you can adjust the individual panel convergences in 1 pixel increments. This may be off or you should be able to align within 1 pixel.Generally, there is a service level, software based, configuration program for image shift to correct convergence. I would agree that anything over 1-pixel is an issue.

It is my understanding that Brillian has a target of +/- 1/2 pixel on their 1080p HDTV.

I did play with the user level pixel shift quite a bit, but every adjustment ended up compromising another part of the image. I'd be interested to learn about a service level adjustment as the JVC Pro Australian Tech dood was unaware of any kind of adjustment of the convergance via service means. It was his understanding that the LCOS assemble came as a pre-fab block, and what you see is what you got.

Cheers

Convergence can only be adjusted on a global basis, not in a zone manner as with CRT's. When you adjust R, G or B shift, you are essentially choosing the 'lesser of two evils'. The tech you spoke with was correct.

Cheers,

Being a fixed pixel display any convergence adjustments are the entire image, in 1 pixel increments, up/down/left/right. If the adjustment is available, this should yield a maximum mis-convergence of ½ pixel (if you’re off ¾ pixel to the right, moving one pixel to the left should yield ¼ pixel to the left). If it is off more than ½ pixel, get a replacement (if under warranty) if it cannot be corrected.

There is some interaction with the room, depending on color. The light that can bounce back to the screen can change the white balance slightly. I believe the calibration is for the StudioTek 130 screen, a different screen can affect calibration.

This is not correct! William Phelps Optimization of this projector goes far beyond simple color calibration, as has been discussed elsewhere. The very small adjustments needed to compensate for screens which are not white or for room interactions, if any, are easily done with the user controls in the projector. The calibration is not specific to the StudioTek 130.

William

As I recall, the image shift is limited to vertical, and not too much. If you are experiencing keystoning, I would look to projector level, then screen, there is no keystone adjustment on the projector (useless anyway on a digital pj).

The HD10K-S (short throw version) of the HD10K exhibits significant keystone at the limit of lens shift, due to the lens itself. I find that the projector must be tilted, NOT level, to compensate. I have recently reported this to JVC; they were not aware of this.

This may also be true of the HD10K with the long throw lens, I have not tested this.

1. Is there a solution available to ceiling mount the 10k without keystoning the image? We've tried cranking the lens offset on our showroom projector, and the keystoning becomes quite noticable. (unless it was caused by mislevelling of our little test projector stand) I'd love to sell the JVC to more clients but am finding the centre mount option quit restrictive with the relatively low screen positions we have to deal with.


G'day! Way too long since I've visited your wonderful country...

I find with the HD10K projector that with large amounts of image shift it must be tilted to remove keystone. This appears to be due to the lens design.

Try running the image shift to the limit, placing the projector at the top of the screen, and tilting it to get the image square. It looks a bit strange with the projector tilted like this but it doesn't appear to affect the image quality.

William

This is not correct! .........adjustments needed to compensate for screens which are not white or for room interactions, if any, are easily done with the user controls in the projector......If my statement was not correct, why do you mention color correction adjustments???? sounds like a contradiction to me. Field calibration is about white balance/grayscale, among other settings, and yes, they use the Studiotek 130 as a reference for white balance. Whitefield uniformity, gamma and a host of other things are, and can only be done with the factory software.

If in fact you are experiencing image distortion with image shift, I would seriously consider moving the projector to avoid any induced optical distortion of the image. At the cost of that projector, it is worth an optimal setup, not a compromise. It would seem to me, if you are experiencing image distortion through the lens, you probably are experiencing some focus issues too.

If my statement was not correct, why do you mention color correction adjustments???? sounds like a contradiction to me. Field calibration is about white balance/grayscale, among other settings, and yes, they use the Studiotek 130 as a reference for white balance. Whitefield uniformity, gamma and a host of other things are, and can only be done with the factory software.

If in fact you are experiencing image distortion with image shift, I would seriously consider moving the projector to avoid any induced optical distortion of the image. At the cost of that projector, it is worth an optimal setup, not a compromise. It would seem to me, if you are experiencing image distortion through the lens, you probably are experiencing some focus issues too.

Glen,

I have developed my own software and processes for Optimization of the JVC series of projectors. There are many reports about this including magazine reviews. In this thread the discussion of my "calibration" is far more than what you are used to, and I do not use "factory software".

I think you will find, if you take the time to actually experiment with the projectors rather than just speculate, that the suggestions I make for placement and tilt are not a compromise. It would be a compromise to place the projector in the middle of the room, positioned at screen center, taking up the best seat in the theater!

We see on average 10 projectors a week. I speak from practical experience and actual measurements. My customers can attest to the quality of the work I do.

William

Glen,

My customers can attest to the quality of the work I do.

William

The Optimized experience is something you have to see to believe. Thanks again Mr. Phelps.

So if i understand you right there is no differences between the JVC and the Meridian exept for the outstanding calibration that Mr William Phelps does...If you talk to Meridian/Faroudja, they claim they have changed some of the programming in the projector, in addition to the WP setup. I would like to think that WP has consulted with Meridian/Faroudja to incorporate enhanced picture control.

I have developed my own software and processes for Optimization of the JVC series of projectors. There are many reports about this including magazine reviews. In this thread the discussion of my "calibration" is far more than what you are used to, and I do not use "factory software".

I think you will find, if you take the time to actually experiment with the projectors rather than just speculate, that the suggestions I make for placement and tilt are not a compromise. It would be a compromise to place the projector in the middle of the room, positioned at screen center, taking up the best seat in the theater!

We see on average 10 projectors a week. I speak from practical experience and actual measurements. My customers can attest to the quality of the work I do.William, I truly wish I had the opportunity to work with/experiment on the projectors. Unfortunately, I don’t get the opportunity.

My recent, only exposure, was just a few hours to setup all the input devices on a DILA-1080pHD, (DirecTV TiVo, 2-DVD players and a laser disc player) in the DVP-1080. The only real issue was the off-white walls in the room, affected black level in higher APL scenes. And yes, my comments were based upon “speculation” under the premise that induced optical distortion from lens shift was not optimal. If I were to “guess,” I would imagine you are only talking about ½” or so of keystoning at the screen, which would hardly be noticeable distortion.

I don’t think, “in theory”, I was off, however your experience, practical application and technique, has provided me (others too) with some education in the issue. Knowing that it “works”, it is now something that can be used as a reference.

I readily agree, your level of “optimization” is far from a basic calibration (ISF or not), just as a full setup on a CRT projector is nothing like a basic calibration.

I assume the Faroudja projector is "William Phelps Optimized" from the "factory" (my reference to "factory software"), and the JVC is or can be optimized by William Phelps, by appointment.

For post number 4000 I thought I would just post a few screen shots. :D


http://photos.imageevent.com/williamjulien/hdscreenshots/huge/T3%20004.jpg
http://photos.imageevent.com/williamjulien/hdscreenshots/huge/T3%20006.jpg
http://photos.imageevent.com/williamjulien/hdscreenshots/huge/CatCF%20005.jpg
http://photos.imageevent.com/williamjulien/hdscreenshots/huge/CatCF%20009.jpg
http://photos.imageevent.com/williamjulien/hdscreenshots/huge/CoR%20007.jpg
http://photos.imageevent.com/williamjulien/hdscreenshots/huge/CoR%20003.jpg

Can not get my projector to work with the Harmony 880 remote. Using the data base it has lots of commands that the projector doesn't have. However the main problem is it will not power on/off. Have tried to learn these but it doesn't do anything. It also won't learn the arrow keys but will learn all others (and from other remotes) so it is not my technique or the remote. Have tried 2", 1",.05", 3",5", 8".... and get nothing. By far the most important are the on and off because the 880 is useless without them. How can I force the 880 to learn or where can I get the correct profile for my projector. I realize it is a somewhat rare item but there must be a way for it to work.

Is there somthing about JVC's on/off/arrow commands that are not learnable or incompatable? Are others having problems with remotes and the HD10K?e

Regarding on/off typically with JVC you need to repeat the command a few times.