I hope I'll never have to pull it again ;-)

You apply the compound on areas where the bulb meets the metal housing (heat sink). Only a film thin layer on both ends.

Remember to wipe the old white compound off!

This is super, thanks:D That is exactly what I was looking for as I haven't taken it apart and I like to know beforehand.

No, the two other were white compounds. The silver compound works best.
Sorry to ask, I do not doubt that you found a solution to the "cricket" noise issue, but how can you be sure the improvement comes from the thermal compound itself and not from the fact that, may be, you tightened the bulb differently with the silver one ?
Both could change the thermal resistance and decrease the cricket noise if it is what creates it.

Sorry to ask, I do not doubt that you found a solution to the "cricket" noise issue, but how can you be sure the improvement comes from the thermal compound itself and not from the fact that, may be, you tightened the bulb differently with the silver one ?
Both could change the thermal resistance and decrease the cricket noise if it is what creates it.

Good question to ask. From looking at the bulb pictures I don't think you can tighten anything differently but I don't know. Certainly what is on the picture there are no threads on the bulb or casing and would think the heat sink has limits to tighten the bulb in. Perhaps the silver paste doesn't break down or stays flexible compared to the other one?
We'll see what happens over time.

Perhaps the silver paste doesn't break down or stays flexible compared to the other one?
We'll see what happens over time.

That's my conclusion, too. You can't tighten the bulb differently.

I hope I'll never have to pull it again ;-)

You apply the compound on areas where the bulb meets the metal housing (heat sink). Only a film thin layer on both ends.

Remember to wipe the old white compound off!

And that is the answer. Put it where you wiped off the old white compound off. :)

And that is the answer. Put it where you wiped off the old white compound off. :)

Of course but, some would have to be left on those surfaces. I have no idea if there will be some left or not, or on all the surfaces that needs them. Best to ask beforehand from the experts here:D
Just what I need if and when I have to take it apart to replace the lamp, is to take it apart and scratch my head where I need to place it:eek:

Of course but, some would have to be left on those surfaces. I have no idea if there will be some left or not, or on all the surfaces that needs them. Best to ask beforehand from the experts here:D
Just what I need if and when I have to take it apart to replace the lamp, is to take it apart and scratch my head where I need to place it:eek:

You'll have to remove (wipe off with solvent) all of the old compound on both the lamp and the heat sink before applying that new silver compound. And you apply the new compound only on the lamp, no need to apply in the heat sink. Simple as that.

My Ruby has been quiet for 2 weeks now :)

My Silver compound just arrived so I am ready if crickets ever come back... :)

My Silver compound just arrived so I am ready if crickets ever come back... :)

Beware...

So I finally get a call from Sony after sending my Ruby to Lorredo. The lady was really difficult to understand. She stated that I need a new bulb and it would cost $1000. I have no issue with the bulb since the pic is still bright. I tried to argue my case but there was obviously a language/communication problem between us. So does this new silver paste work? Don't think I want to pay $1000 for a partial fix. By the way, the PJ is still under warranty. It's been only a little over a year with light usage 600 hours.

So I finally get a call from Sony after sending my Ruby to Lorredo. The lady was really difficult to understand. She stated that I need a new bulb and it would cost $1000. I have no issue with the bulb since the pic is still bright. I tried to argue my case but there was obviously a language/communication problem between us. So does this new silver paste work? Don't think I want to pay $1000 for a partial fix. By the way, the PJ is still under warranty. It's been only a little over a year with light usage 600 hours.

Under warranty and $1000 does not sound correct.

You can replace your own lamp a lot cheaper than that.

Under warranty and $1000 does not sound correct.

You can replace your own lamp a lot cheaper than that.

The Sony retail on that lamp is very close to $1k. Lamp has a very short warranty, perhaps 3 month. So, maybe they also added labor costs since the lamp is not under warranty most likely.
Yes, he may be able to replace it himself for much less.

The Sony retail on that lamp is very close to $1k. Lamp has a very short warranty, perhaps 3 month. So, maybe they also added labor costs since the lamp is not under warranty most likely.
Yes, he may be able to replace it himself for much less.

Sony Repair has been replacing the lamp for others that
had Crickets, Warranty or No Warranty.

Sony Repair has been replacing the lamp for others that
had Crickets, Warranty or No Warranty.

Interesting, thanks. An easy issue to get a new lamp? :D

Interesting, thanks. An easy issue to get a new lamp? :D

If it was in for Cricket Extermination ;)

Anybody know of another place to purchase the lamp? This source (http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&item=160346800763) comes and goes and the price keeps going up.

Doesn't look like he sold the last 3 as there were no bidders on that auction.
Try emailing him through "Ask seller a question". He may sell you one direct.

Yes, but at 50% more than they were roughly 8 months ago...perhaps it's no wonder.

What he needs is some healthy competition.

Yes, but at 50% more than they were roughly 8 months ago...perhaps it's no wonder.

What he needs is some healthy competition.

I paid $320 plus $10 Shipping in December 08.

50% more?
I paid $300 for mine, now it is $339.
I would email him and offer $300 for one. He won't have to pay the ebay fee for selling it, so he may do it.
Even $339 + shipping is a lot less than buying a complete lamp assy.

Yes, but at 50% more than they were roughly 8 months ago...perhaps it's no wonder.

What he needs is some healthy competition.

If you go to this website (http://netlink.alphasource.com/cgi-bin/netlink?request_id=OSTKDET&stock_no=Y1899&session_no=N4D42DNDE9AB49D922D29OU0A)- you can buy all you want!

Now which price is BETTER. The Lamp is a Perkin Elmer Cermax Xenon Arc lamp

Sorry about that...Apparently my memory serves none too well without the facts in front of me. The truth of the matter is I paid 310, shipping included 11 months ago. Would have sworn an oath I paid around 220 shipped for the lamp. Reality is often in conflict with perception and to err is human. My apologies.:o

Sorry about that...Apparently my memory serves none too well without the facts in front of me. The truth of the matter is I paid 310, shipping included 11 months ago. Would have sworn an oath I paid around 220 shipped for the lamp. Reality is often in conflict with perception and to err is human. My apologies.:o

No Problem the eBay seller has a great price based on the
going price from the distributor.

I talked with Perkin Elmer today. The Y1899 part is a CUSTOM
Part number - Thank you Mr. Sony.

If so, any issues?

My understanding after reading a lot of these postings is that replacing the lamp does not fix the cricket sound.

To clarify they stated the pj is under warranty and not the bulb - 3 months. While I understand the bulb is a wear and tear item it should be at least prorated for the price of a new one. However, I don't think this is truly a wear and tear issue as the bulb works fine brightness wise.

Has the silver compound worked? Has Sony acknowledhed this?

Any ideas or help on how to get Sony to step up to the plate? Hate to think I wasted $60 to ship this to them for them to tell me I need to pay them $1000.

Has the silver compound worked? .

According to Mr. Freewheeler it does (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showpost.php?p=16595313&postcount=226)

Sony will never acknowledge it. They do not repair anything.
They replace modules that plug and unplug.

Has the silver compound worked?

My Ruby is still silent after watching about 200 hours since early June. I've had the Ruby on sometimes for 8 - 10 hours and the lamp temps are from 550 to 590, which is ok. Hope it works for everybody else too!

The Ruby still has some of the best color Ive seen from any projector. Alan said its the Xenon but what ever it is "Me Like"

Replacement Lamp LMP-H400 for Sony modules (http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=160351200204&ssPageName=ADME:B:SS:US:1123#ht_500wt_1136)

Has the silver compound worked?

Yes and No.

I have two complete housings with heat sinks and lamps.

Lamp:

#1) has 510 hours on it and was chirping like the dickens. This lamp was purchased to replace lamp #2 that had 818 hours on it at the time it was replaced because of chirping. This lamp has the gray vinyl coating that encircles the juncture between the front and rear sections of the lamp.

#2) has 818 hours on it and was sitting idle until I was able to cheaply purchase a replacement housing with heat sinks only. This lamp has a hard paper divider between the front and rear sections of the lamp.

I purchased the Spire silver thermal compound and mounted lamp #2 in the replacement housing. Of note, the two part front heatsink assembly fit Very tightly over the front of the lamp. Finished reassembly of the heat sink and housing and tired it. Two hours later no chirping, maybe what I thought was a slight fan whine, but otherwise silent, (could be the lamp singing).

With lamp #1 removed from the projector, I dissassembled the lamp and heatsink assembly, cleaned the lamp and heatsinks and reassembled using the Spire thermal grease. I noticed that the front heatsink assembly on this unit was still relatively loose. I removed the retaining clips and lightly crimped them to increase their clamping preasure. This helped but the front heatsink assembly still did not feel as solid as on the previous unit although it seated squarely on the front of the lamp. I reassembled the unit and reinstalled it in the projector. This unit was silent for the first 30 minutes then started chirping...lightly at first then grew in intensity. I left this unit in the projector. Each subsequent time I started the projector, this unit took less and less time to start chirping. It now starts silently but begins chirping from 5 to 10 minutes after I turn the projector on. Relative to before the application of the Spire thermal grease, the chirping is about half as loud.

Yes and No.

I have two complete housings with heat sinks and lamps.

Lamp:

#1) has 510 hours on it and was chirping like the dickens. This lamp was purchased to replace lamp #2 that had 818 hours on it at the time it was replaced because of chirping. This lamp has the gray vinyl coating that encircles the juncture between the front and rear sections of the lamp.

#2) has 818 hours on it and was sitting idle until I was able to cheaply purchase a replacement housing with heat sinks only. This lamp has a hard paper divider between the front and rear sections of the lamp.

I purchased the Spire silver thermal compound and mounted lamp #2 in the replacement housing. Of note, the two part front heatsink assembly fit Very tightly over the front of the lamp. Finished reassembly of the heat sink and housing and tired it. Two hours later no chirping, maybe what I thought was a slight fan whine, but otherwise silent, (could be the lamp singing).

With lamp #1 removed from the projector, I dissassembled the lamp and heatsink assembly, cleaned the lamp and heatsinks and reassembled using the Spire thermal grease. I noticed that the front heatsink assembly on this unit was still relatively loose. I removed the retaining clips and lightly crimped them to increase their clamping preasure. This helped but the front heatsink assembly still did not feel as solid as on the previous unit although it seated squarely on the front of the lamp. I reassembled the unit and reinstalled it in the projector. This unit was silent for the first 30 minutes then started chirping...lightly at first then grew in intensity. I left this unit in the projector. Each subsequent time I started the projector, this unit took less and less time to start chirping. It now starts silently but begins chirping from 5 to 10 minutes after I turn the projector on. Relative to before the application of the Spire thermal grease, the chirping is about half as loud.

All that sounds logical. If there is not a SOLID coupling
between the heat sink and the lamp - there is not much
the Thermal compound can do to transfer heat.

All that sounds logical. If there is not a SOLID coupling
between the heat sink and the lamp - there is not much
the Thermal compound can do to transfer heat.

I realize that this is a difficult question to research as I do not think anyone has quantities of these things laying around to test but has anyone found a variance in the size of the lamp body (my two lamps appear to be either manufactured or assembled differently)? or perhaps in the machining of the heatsink parts?

I am inlcined to dissassemble both my units and switch the lamps.... but not yet. More to follow.

I realize that this is a difficult question to research as I do not think anyone has quantities of these things laying around to test but has anyone found a variance in the size of the lamp body (my two lamps appear to be either manufactured or assembled differently)? or perhaps in the machining of the heatsink parts?

I am inlcined to dissassemble both my units and switch the lamps.... but not yet. More to follow.

I only have one spare lamp housing assembly. It is the one
I took out of the PJ when the PJ said my lamp life was OVER.
I installed a whole NEW Lamp Assembly in the PJ. No Crickets.

I bought a replacement Perkin Elmer Xenon Bulb and installed
it in the 1st housing. It was a TIGHT fit. I used the Silver Compound.

I have not installed it for testing. Getting my PJ up and Down is
not something I care to do more than EVERY OTHER YEAR ;)

It would not surprise me to see some Heat Sink Machining
tolerances cause a variance. The Perkin Elmer Lamp is a SPECIAL
for SONY as well. It could also have some small variances that
when combined with the heat sink could yield a slight looser fit.

This unit was silent for the first 30 minutes then started chirping...lightly at first then grew in intensity. I left this unit in the projector. Each subsequent time I started the projector, this unit took less and less time to start chirping. It now starts silently but begins chirping from 5 to 10 minutes after I turn the projector on. Relative to before the application of the Spire thermal grease, the chirping is about half as loud.

My silver greased lamp does the excact opposite. It chirps the first 5 minutes and is silent after that.

drhankz,

sent you a PM...Cheers;)

Does any one have a source for the lamp for the 700W lamp for the Qualia 004? Has anyone successfully replaced a lamp in an existing housing?

I have read through a few, sorry correction to many hours of forums with no avail. I have bought a new bulb with housing replaced it and have done the (reset < > enter) over 50 times. I have tried almost every way of doing it except standing on my head. This is my Third bulb. I reset my first bulb and got a ton of extra life out of it. My second bulb took reset within a few tries and would not reset for extra time at all, so i ordered a new bulb / housing ($900.00 Canadian)

So after that long winded history Help please i just build a new room its like a back abyss and i have only have a minute to watch anything:(.

I even got a few other people to try it (suggested on one post)

Sorry if this is the wrong post to put this up, it seemed the most relevant.

Cheers

Sean

Is the Qualia lamp model not the LMP-H700? I thought it was a 700 watt lamp and a lot brighter than the VW100 and VW200 lamps? I have seen a few Qualia pjs for sale and signifigantly less than the $30,000 price tag they use to have, but before I would buy the pj I would have to find a spare lamp for under 2500.00 British pounds was roughly the cheapest I could find. Here is what the Qualia lamp looks like. Quite a bit different than the Ruby and Saphire lamps. The Qualia is such a nice machine but the parts to maintain it is an absolute waste of money.

Is the Qualia lamp model not the LMP-H700? I thought it was a 700 watt lamp and a lot brighter than the VW100 and VW200 lamps? I have seen a few Qualia pjs for sale and signifigantly less than the $30,000 price tag they use to have, but before I would buy the pj I would have to find a spare lamp for under 2500.00 British pounds was roughly the cheapest I could find. Here is what the Qualia lamp looks like. Quite a bit different than the Ruby and Saphire lamps. The Qualia is such a nice machine but the parts to maintain it is an absolute waste of money.

I'll probably get spanked - but the Qualia has seen its day.
At any price - I would pass on buying one.

I have two HIGH-END CRT PJs that cost me $75000 when they
were new in 1996. Today - I have to PAY SOMEONE to take them
out of my basement, and both of them are PERFECT. All Electronics
have they time in the sun - then they become land fill.

Did you not upgrade the CRTs to 1080p via hdmi? I have been looking into CRTs or possible a Sim2 HT300. Why you ask? Because they are affordable now and I believe they will give me more value for my buck. I think that the CRT route will give me plenty of picture quality for a far longer time than a digital as every projector I have owned have been utter crap. And I believe the Sim2 has a bulb that is rate for 6000 hours which is much better than these $5000 - $10,000 machine that get 1500 hours of use and have to be babied. The nice projectors of today are just too expensive for the amount of viewing time you can enjoy on them.

On the flip side I hate watching small TV's more. If I am going to invest $2500 to $5000 on a projector it had better be watched everyday, and not a $5000 42'' lcd TV, os what is a guy to do, just suck it up I guess.

Did you not upgrade the CRTs to 1080p via hdmi? I have been looking into CRTs or possible a Sim2 HT300. Why you ask? Because they are affordable now and I believe they will give me more value for my buck. I think that the CRT route will give me plenty of picture quality for a far longer time than a digital as every projector I have owned have been utter crap. And I believe the Sim2 has a bulb that is rate for 6000 hours which is much better than these $5000 - $10,000 machine that get 1500 hours of use and have to be babied. The nice projectors of today are just too expensive for the amount of viewing time you can enjoy on them.

On the flip side I hate watching small TV's more. If I am going to invest $2500 to $5000 on a projector it had better be watched everyday, and not a $5000 42'' lcd TV, os what is a guy to do, just suck it up I guess.

My PJ's where 1080i from 1996 on.

I did add an update to HDCP compatible HDMI input whenever the 1st
HD-DVD player was released - March 200x?

I'm not aware of any CRT that can actually do 1080p because of the
bandwidth issue. But 1080i and 1080p are the same number of pixels.
Since CRTs have a longer decay period than digital PJs - I doubt anyone
could see the difference between 1080i and 1080p, even if a CRT PJ
could do 1080p.

I was using my CRT PJs on a 156" screen. When I upgraded to a digital
PJ with 1080p - the big difference was the sharpness of the picture
because CRTs are softer due to the analog nature of them. Some prefer
that.

at least I hope it's a good price.... several hundred dollars less than the Japanese e-bay site...

At least its from the US and free shipping to boot...

http://www.vanns.com/shop/servlet/item/features/750999385/sony-lmp-h400

Still more than twice as expensive as the replacement Xenon lamp alone sold on eBay. Why do you need one with a full housing ?

Still more than twice as expensive as the replacement Xenon lamp alone sold on eBay. Why do you need one with a full housing ?

I guess convenience and not having to deal with cricket noises and the like...

I guess convenience and not having to deal with cricket noises and the like...
Well, if you read this thread carefully you will see that most people with the "cricket noises" got them from standard full-housing LMP-H400 provided by Sony. The fix, on the other hand, supposes you disassemble the Xenon lamp to use a different thermal paste.

So after reading through all the posts I could find here, and doing a bit of research myself I am getting closer to finding the right bulb for the QUalia 004.

I am surprised no one actually listed the model number of the bulb, I just get links to expired websites or ebay listings.

Can someone please confirm...
Qualia 004 bulb is a Perkin elmer C type (Cermax) 700W Xenon bulb.
That leaves 4 options
PE700C-10F ... low UV and 1.0 focal distance
PE700C-10UV ... high UV and 1.0 focal distance
PE700C-13F ... low UV and 1.3 focal distance
PE700C-13UV ... high UV and 1.3 focal distance

I can guess the low UV makes more sense, but the focal distance I don't know. The bulbs are between $885 to 1200 list price so it is not something to just "try out"

Someone please help ...?

Still looking for a discount source as well...

So after reading through all the posts I could find here, and doing a bit of research myself I am getting closer to finding the right bulb for the QUalia 004.

I am surprised no one actually listed the model number of the bulb, I just get links to expired websites or ebay listings.

Can someone please confirm...
Qualia 004 bulb is a Perkin elmer C type (Cermax) 700W Xenon bulb.
That leaves 4 options
PE700C-10F ... low UV and 1.0 focal distance
PE700C-10UV ... high UV and 1.0 focal distance
PE700C-13F ... low UV and 1.3 focal distance
PE700C-13UV ... high UV and 1.3 focal distance

I can guess the low UV makes more sense, but the focal distance I don't know. The bulbs are between $885 to 1200 list price so it is not something to just "try out"

Someone please help ...?

Still looking for a discount source as well...

I'm not familiar with Qualia 004 bulb.

But when I tried the same exercise with my Ruby Lamp - I found
the Perkin Elmer Part number and Called Perkin Elmer to buy it.

The BAD NEWS is they obviously recognized the part number and
said that is a CUSTOM lamp we designed for Sony and we can only
sell that part number to SONY.

I'll bet the same applies to the Qualia 004 bulb.

I'm selling my Ruby and I checked out both my lamp modules that they work ok. They weren't chirping but the other one had serious powering up problems. Both lamps had had the silver grease treatment. I removed all the grease from the start up faulty lamp and voilá! It started up normal without extra clickings from the Ruby and there was no cricket sound! I removed all the grease from the other lamp and it works just fine. No grease on it at all.

Summa summarum: those lamps do not need any thermal grease.

All this past grease talk for nothing!!!

I'm selling my Ruby and I checked out both my lamp modules that they work ok. They weren't chirping but the other one had serious powering up problems. Both lamps had had the silver grease treatment. I removed all the grease from the start up faulty lamp and voilá! It started up normal without extra clickings from the Ruby and there was no cricket sound! I removed all the grease from the other lamp and it works just fine. No grease on it at all.

Summa summarum: those lamps do not need any thermal grease.

All this past grease talk for nothing!!!

Are you sure it is not the 50Hz issue versus 60Hz ;)

Are you sure it is not the 50Hz issue versus 60Hz ;)

Hmmm... I'm not following...?

Hmmm... I'm not following...?

It was a JOKE :D

Hi All,

Could a power outage destroy the lamp of a VPL VW100?

I had a 1 second power outage while the projector was running.
The projector was off afterwards.
After that the lamp did not come on again. I hear the clicking/sparking of the ignition circuit, but no light.(lamp/cover led is on then)
I inspected the lamp but I can't see anything.

The projector sometimes did come up slowely, sometimes I needed to re enter the on button, but worst case it did come up after a retry.

700 hours on the lamp

Thanks,
Peter

Hi All,

Could a power outage destroy the lamp of a VPL VW100?

I had a 1 second power outage while the projector was running.

Peter

I just had TWO of those same kind of Power Outages Thursday night.
I had my fingers crossed that everything was OK. In my CASE it did
survive.

If your starting circuit was a bit flaky in normal operations - then YES
your Power Outage could have caused Damage.

Happened to me too, lamp would not light anymore after a power outage.
Had to change it (300h :-(
May be with the Sony Hard Start Mod Kit [A1206459A] it would have started again, but unfortunately I did not get it while I still had Sony Prime Support coverage...

Is this mod (A1206459A) still available, and can you perform the mod yourself?

Thanks

Hi Forum,

I am still gathering information and trying to get my VW100 up and running again.

Did somebody recently buy a replacement bulb for the Ruby. I am ready to just replace the bulb. Buying a whole new lamp assy for 1000 Euro seems a risk, as I am afraid I will have issues with it eventually (because of the start up bug).

The projector is almost 4 years old and with only 700 viewing hours it should be able to last a couple of years.
However if the repair costs a new bulb and a hard start mod for a mere 1700 Euro total, I am afraid it sits close to the end of its economical value and a full replacement for a 4k JVC D-ILA 550 becomes in range.

Thanks

Could anyone help me with the service menu button sequence to tweak the light output? I thought I had it but cant find it, I did try it but it didnt work so if anyone can offer the order to push to enter menu and any useful tips I would really appreciate it............only had this Ruby for a few days, its my 3rd Projector but first Sony, I got a good deal on it so I went with this over a more modern budget unit. Thanks so much!

Could anyone help me with the service menu button sequence to tweak the light output? I thought I had it but cant find it, I did try it but it didnt work so if anyone can offer the order to push to enter menu and any useful tips I would really appreciate it............only had this Ruby for a few days, its my 3rd Projector but first Sony, I got a good deal on it so I went with this over a more modern budget unit. Thanks so much!

SEE the Attached Jpg Fille

thank you so much! Are there any other tweaks or secrets of benefit?

thank you so much! Are there any other tweaks or secrets of benefit?

I'm not sure WHY you think you NEED this tweak.

My VW100 is MANY years old and had many Lamps already.

NO Tweaks Here.

I dont need it but it was noted so I wanted to experiment as its harmless and can be saved or not............I am new to this so just wanting to see whats out there I may not know of.

I had the crickets problem at 550hrs on the lamp. Took the lamp a part and removed the white grease and replaced with the silverartic 5 gray grease. Ran the PJ for 3hrs and so far no crickets. Also did the simple light adjust of the IRIS on #44 to 200 and improved the picture quality and brightness. Thanks for all those good advices from this thread.

Hi Forum,

My projector is still down after the power outage 3 weeks ago.
I have ordered a hard start mod kit and I am going to do the mod myself.
I will make pictures and let you all know.

I hope this will make the unit go, otherwise I will have to add a lamp as well.

Cheers,
Peter

Anybody know if you can still purchase the bulb only for the VW100? I've searched Ebay and several other retail sites but can't find anything except the full housing LMP-H400.

Anybody know if you can still purchase the bulb only for the VW100? I've searched Ebay and several other retail sites but can't find anything except the full housing LMP-H400.

You mean like THIS ONE (http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=160415625530&ssPageName=ADME:B:SS:US:1123#ht_500wt_1182)

There has been a price increase :(

Thanks, I found it last night too. Don't know why it didn't turn up in my first search. The seller is also including the thermal compound, but still quite a jump in cost! My local Sony dealer says that Sony is out of the LMP-H400's and doesn't know when they will have them back in stock.

I replaced the lamp in my VPL-VW100 2,450 hours ago. I just got the 50 hour replacement reminder message on-screen. The lamp is still acceptably bright, and shows no signs of dimming. It occurred to me that if the auto 2500 hour shutdown did not occur, that the lamp may be godd for another 50 or 100 hours or more. I'm considering waiting until the remaining time is a few hours, and then doing the timer reset procedure, tricking the projector into thinking that a new lamp was installed. I'm a little concerned about whether that will work, and if it could cause any problems when the lamp finally burns out. Does anyone know for sure? Thanks in advance.

John

Hi forum,
My VPL VW100 is up and running again.
The hard start mod kit solved the problem. (thanks jj for the mod description that was not included in the kit)
About a 2 hour job when performed at a slow pace tracking the steps so I didn't had any parts left after the procedure :)

The power outage didn't kill the lamp after all!
Now the pj starts at once.

Take care............

HEEELLLP!

I replaced the bulb in the housing of the VPL-VW100 about a year ago according to the instructions on this thread. Everthing OK until about three months ago where it just starting taking longer and longer to ignite the bulb. Sometimes up to 15 minutes. So I disassembled and changed to the silver grease. Still clicking and no immediate ignition but it shortened to about a minute or so BUT then one of the fans starting making a noise so I decided to go ahead and put two new fans in. The service manual was fairly straight forward and so I put the new fans in and reassembled. Now the darn thing turns on and I hear and feel the fans, they seem fine but I hear not clicking of the igniter. What in the world could be causing this. Any ideas of things to try before I bring it to the sony repair shop.

HEEELLLP!

I replaced the bulb in the housing of the VPL-VW100 about a year ago according to the instructions on this thread. Everthing OK until about three months ago where it just starting taking longer and longer to ignite the bulb. Sometimes up to 15 minutes. So I disassembled and changed to the silver grease. Still clicking and no immediate ignition but it shortened to about a minute or so BUT then one of the fans starting making a noise so I decided to go ahead and put two new fans in. The service manual was fairly straight forward and so I put the new fans in and reassembled. Now the darn thing turns on and I hear and feel the fans, they seem fine but I hear not clicking of the igniter. What in the world could be causing this. Any ideas of things to try before I bring it to the sony repair shop.

I would double check the fan mode in the setup someplace and make sure it is not on high altitude mode as then it is running faster and audible more so.

The fans seem fine. The Lamp will not ignite. It is also not making that clicking noise that I assume was the igniter trying to light the lamp. After about 4 minutes it shuts down and the red on/standby light is on along with the yellow cover/lamp light. I am trying to figure out how to get the igniter to work again?

HEEELLLP!

I replaced the bulb in the housing of the VPL-VW100 about a year ago according to the instructions on this thread. Everthing OK until about three months ago where it just starting taking longer and longer to ignite the bulb. Sometimes up to 15 minutes. So I disassembled and changed to the silver grease. Still clicking and no immediate ignition but it shortened to about a minute or so BUT then one of the fans starting making a noise so I decided to go ahead and put two new fans in. The service manual was fairly straight forward and so I put the new fans in and reassembled. Now the darn thing turns on and I hear and feel the fans, they seem fine but I hear not clicking of the igniter. What in the world could be causing this. Any ideas of things to try before I bring it to the sony repair shop.

I've seen stuff like that happen with fans in electronics in general when the rpm sense doesn't work. The software will send power to the fans, then try to read the rpm speed. If the new fan is plugged in wrong or wired different internally it will read zero rpm (even though the fan has power and is spinning). The software then thinks the fan isn't running and won't even try the next step (igniting the lamp in this case). See if you plugged the headers in backwards (if possible), or verify the rpm sense is wired & implemented the same as the old ones. It would be a PITA, but you could put the old ones back in and see if it strikes.

You could also try resetting the lamp timer. Normally the only reason you open the lamp compartment is to change the lamp, and you reset the timer as part of the process. I vaguely remember the reset step being a requirement on a PJ even if the lamp wasn't changed, but I don't remember if it was a Ruby. Worth a shot.

Could a power outage destroy the lamp of a VPL VW100?


You wish ;) No, Mr Allstate, I have no idea why the homes lightning rod was wired directly into my old PJ.

Hi, I´m trying to replace the bulb on my VPL-VW100 the only problem that i moved the valve gas screw how far away from the bulb should be, can any one help me to set the correct distance in the screw.

My Ruby just wore out it's 3rd bulb. This last one lasted for 2490 hours which is stellar compared to the first one which was less than 900. The 2nd one was replaced by Sony when my unit was in for service getting the hard fix mod thing done.

I had already purchased a new LMP-H400 as a backup (not knowing about this thread!) ages ago so today I put that in. Thinking I'd like to have another spare standing buy I found this thread and started looking around for where to buy the bulbs. Here's what I found:

http://netlink.alphasource.com/cgi-bin/netlink?request_id=OSTKDET&stock_no=Y1899&session_no=1ND2AORAD9WDRNEU92D41M45U

($595)

and

http://cgi.ebay.com/Replacement-Lamp-LMP-H400-Sony-modules-/160473487712?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item255cf71960#ht_500wt_1138

($385)

The ebay one is clearly far better than the ~$800 it still costs to buy a new LMP-H400. I have THREE LMP-H400 units now (one in the projector, two in a closet with burned out bulbs).

Man this projector is expensive!

I had the crickets problem at 550hrs on the lamp. Took the lamp a part and removed the white grease and replaced with the silverartic 5 gray grease. Ran the PJ for 3hrs and so far no crickets. Also did the simple light adjust of the IRIS on #44 to 200 and improved the picture quality and brightness. Thanks for all those good advices from this thread.

I have cricket sound now on my ruby. Lamp has about 600 hrs. I am interested in knowing exactly what you did and specifically what grease you used. Can you give your steps or point me to the information? I would like to see if this will work for me.

I have cricket sound now on my ruby. Lamp has about 600 hrs. I am interested in knowing exactly what you did and specifically what grease you used. Can you give your steps or point me to the information? I would like to see if this will work for me.

Here is one reference from the beginning of this thread

http://www.xoxide.com/arcticsilver5.html

Here is one reference from the beginning of this thread

http://www.xoxide.com/arcticsilver5.html

Thank you. Anyone have some pictures or a process/steps for applying this. Not sure where exactly this should on the lamp or porjector?

Thank you. Anyone have some pictures or a process/steps for applying this. Not sure where exactly this should on the lamp or porjector?

Do you only READ one POST?

Check out Post 169 & 170.

You put the greese where the OLD stuff was :mad:

Do you only READ one POST?

Check out Post 169 & 170.

You put the greese where the OLD stuff was :mad:


Also try the lamp mounting WITHOUT any grease. That worked for my Ruby.

http://www.dlplampsource.com/lmp-h400-projector-replacement-lamp.html?gclid=CIDJvqHkl6UCFQ915QodaH2PJg pic doesn't look right though...

http://www.dlplampsource.com/lmp-h400-projector-replacement-lamp.html?gclid=CIDJvqHkl6UCFQ915QodaH2PJg pic doesn't look right though...

They look OK along with a High Price.

Wondering if anyone here knows if the Perkin Elmer Y1899 lamp is actually just a re-badged (for Sony) Perkin Elmer ME400BF

If I had more posts, I'd give you some links...

Thanks

Wondering if anyone here knows if the Perkin Elmer Y1899 lamp is actually just a re-badged (for Sony) Perkin Elmer ME400BF

If I had more posts, I'd give you some links...

Thanks

All I know I got from Perkin Elmer - Directly.

They said the Sony Bulb and part number were designed for SONY only.

Hey drhankz,

I started to get a little concerned that these 'lamp only' replacements were no longer available, (nothing on ebay through seller xenoarc), so I started looking for the Perkin Elmer Y1899. I couldn't find it on the Perkin Elmer website so they must have them pretty well hidden or they just aren't listed since they are a proprietary item, (for sale to Sony only?). I do see them relisted today on eBay......but I am intrigued by your purchase of them direct from Perkin Elmer. Would I be able to do this as well? I didn't want to call them until I had a chance to talk to you first.

Hey drhankz,

I started to get a little concerned that these 'lamp only' replacements were no longer available, (nothing on ebay through seller xenoarc), so I started looking for the Perkin Elmer Y1899. I couldn't find it on the Perkin Elmer website so they must have them pretty well hidden or they just aren't listed since they are a proprietary item, (for sale to Sony only?). I do see them relisted today on eBay......but I am intrigued by your purchase of them direct from Perkin Elmer. Would I be able to do this as well? I didn't want to call them until I had a chance to talk to you first.

You will NOT get them from PE.

BUY from the eBay Seller if he is in Florida

Hey drhankz,

I started to get a little concerned that these 'lamp only' replacements were no longer available, (nothing on ebay through seller xenoarc), so I started looking for the Perkin Elmer Y1899. I couldn't find it on the Perkin Elmer website so they must have them pretty well hidden or they just aren't listed since they are a proprietary item, (for sale to Sony only?). I do see them relisted today on eBay......but I am intrigued by your purchase of them direct from Perkin Elmer. Would I be able to do this as well? I didn't want to call them until I had a chance to talk to you first.

This is the GUY to BUY From (http://cgi.ebay.com/Replacement-Lamp-LMP-H400-Sony-modules-/160531301404?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item256069441c#ht_500wt_1038)

eBay ITEM # 160531301404

This is the GUY to BUY From (http://cgi.ebay.com/Replacement-Lamp-LMP-H400-Sony-modules-/160531301404?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item256069441c#ht_500wt_1038)

eBay ITEM # 160531301404

Thanks drhankz. I think I misinterpreted your ealier post in which you state, "All I know I got from Perkin Elmer - Directly". I have purchased from xenoarc on eBay before. Very reliable.

Thanks drhankz. I think I misinterpreted your ealier post in which you state, "All I know I got from Perkin Elmer - Directly". I have purchased from xenoarc on eBay before. Very reliable.

I called PE and they will not sell to anyone that is not SONY.

I have bought from the eBay supplier before - he is GREAT.

I have an early model unit that has a serial number that some have indicated requires a hard start mod kit. I haven't had any problem with it (except for a short period after a storm outage when the lamp would not go back on). I have not replaced the lamp yet. Why and when is a hard start mod kit needed.

See my answer in this other thread (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=20467512#post20467512).
As a rule, if it works, don't fix it ;) .

Does anyone have any info on how to replace the lamp in my Qualia 004? I have the replacement lamp, but I don't know what I need to take apart to do it. Also, what kind of drivers do you need to take the cover off?

It's very interesting, i don't have a Sony but a JVD DLA-G 20, wich uses a 550w lamp. The lamp is still working but only i could see on the lamp is the type number Y1639, i think it's a 550w lamp, but dont know if the focal length is 10 or 13mm. Somebody any idea wich normal available lamp it would be? The crazy high-price from JVC is lamp with housing : about 1800$

So wich type should i use?

Kind regards