As most of you know the Bulb for the Ruby (Sony VPL-VW100) is a "Cermax" style/brand xenon bulb. (Sony LMP-H400)

Here is a supposed picture of the bulb itself

http://akamaipix.crutchfield.com/products/2006/158/h158LMPH400-f_Xeno.jpeg

Here is one in the housing/heatsink

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/images/largeimages/410696.jpg


Although the going rate for Bulb with new housing in the US seams to be about $850 you can knock $200 off that price going overseas.

The real question is how much can you get "just the bulb" for as many D-ILA owners have been remounting just the bulb in their old housing/heatsinks for a few years now.

What we learned was you could go to a higher wattage bulb and extend the life of the bulb and not experience as rapid of a dropoff in light output in the beginning. Basically the power supply compensates for the higher wattage rated bulb and the bulb size/form was identical from 400 w - 500w. which allowed the 500w bulb to fit into any of the G series projectors/housings.

I'm pretty sure the same is true for this bulb too and the housing looks even easier to seperate and reseat a new bulb. just a clip on top and bottom?

Anyway, now there are many places to buy Cermax bulbs retail so finding replacements should be pretty easy. Someone out there knows a good cross reference number for the identical bulb to mach up with Sony's "proprietary bulb" model number. Or it may be time for some to do a little experimenting with higher wattage ;)

Ruby bulbs for under $500? entirely likely.

The above picture of the "sony" bulb looks like an actual image of the face but a composite of the back end of the bulb. why? I have no idea...but

Here is teh D-ILA bulb that is used for many applications not just projectors

http://fatbulldog.com/images/diy/bulb1_s.jpg

http://fatbulldog.com/images/diy/bulb2_s.jpg

http://fatbulldog.com/images/diy/bulb3_s.jpg

I think you could fit one of these:

http://www.bvmjets.com/turbine/p70.jpg

16 pounds of thrust at 120,000 rpm.

I think it's about 120db at Idle.

:eek:

Tryg I think you are right. The Sony bulb has the ring in the front that looks as if it serves no purpose other then cosmetic. Ive dealt with Xenon for years with film and Im betting the same PS in the Ruby will still ignite and run several other Xenons close in power rating. I have a spare bulb and cage. I should remove the stock bulb and order a Cermax xenon and see what what happens. Im confident if we could find something that mounts securely into the heatsink and uses the same hook up it will work. I would be concerned with any giving off any additional heat as I think the projector was designed with a set temp in mind. I would not want to melt my Ruby :)

Tom

With that we could fly our projector in for service. No need for fedex:)

Wow,
If you can hit my only two objections to the Ruby:
1) High cost of replacement bulb
2) Dim projector when all "decked" out

You'll find another Ruby buyer.

That ring might be used as part of the design to improve heat transfer. Being able to replace the lamp at a significantly lower cost would be a big plus.

That ring looks like some kind of insulator. It looks white vs the rest looks like metal.

Would somebody please dismantle their Ruby so we can have some pictures of the bulb? :D

Wow,
If you can hit my only two objections to the Ruby:
1) High cost of replacement bulb
2) Dim projector when all "decked" out

You'll find another Ruby buyer.

1. Is $650 high cost? if so we'll find a replacement soon and hack off another $100+

2. Darin/Alan already solved this issue

Call AVS today and put in your order :)

1) I'm used to $300 bulbs but if I were to push it to $550, I would. A bit pricey but doable.
2) I'm very tempted as I already have a Hi Po screen and my upgrade bug is driving me nuts!

But I must resist! :D
Too many hobbies, not enough money to play around...

It's amazing how people obsess about a few hundred dollars difference in bulb price but they are willing to take thousands of dollars of losses each year on the depreciation of their projector...

:confused:

I don't know about you but my projector cost me $3,600 (below cost) back when MSRP was $8k.
Did you get such a good deal on yours too?

I don't obsess over a few hundred $$ but I certainly don't rejoice in the fact that a throwaway part can cost me close to $1k.
But that's just me.
YMMV

dont get the Sanyo PLV-HD100 Projector. 4 lamps will definately hurt the pocketbook ;)

Hmmm... 1000-lumen Ruby. :D

And with hi-altitude fan mode available to keep things cool....

Could anyone point me to the best source for a Ruby replacement bulb? I've seen internet pricing from $850 to $1000. Has anyone done the experiment with the 500w bulb?

I think everyone online is backordered. They may say in stock but if you call them they will tell you otherwise. I hope sony has not forgot about their Xenon lamps! :eek:

Just installed a new bulb in my Ruby that I got through AVS. So I had to disassemble the old one. The picture in the first post is the actual bulb.

The manufacture posted an article regarding their xenon tehnology being showcased at CEDIA 2005.
Here is the link: http://optoelectronics.perkinelmer.com/Catalog/Category.aspx?CategoryName=Video+Projection
I didn't find the specific bulb listed at the site. I would guess the bulb is only available to Sony. Does anyone know differently?

Stu

Did it make a big difference in brightness. I have 1200 hours on my bulb so I know I will have
to replace mine very soon.

I had about 1300 on mine. I had sent the pj in for service, it had developed a noise that sounded like there were crickets in the room! Well it turned out to be the bulb. Sony service wanted to replace the bulb for list price. They also did the hard start mod and checked the convergence.
I didn't notice much in the way of a brightness change with the new bulb. I'm using your #'s on 43 and 44 if that makes a difference.

I just got a LMP-H400 replacement bulb. I've about 1000 hours on the current one. Since there's a 90 days warranty on the new bulb, I'm thinking of installing it now and use the old one as a back-up. However, according to the instructions, I've to release the xenon gas first when I take out the old bulb, which means I cannot re-use it. Can I just remove the bulb without releasing the xenon. Please help. Thanks

absolutely

absolutely

I take that to mean it's O.K. to remove the bulb without first releasing the xenon. Right?

Thanks for your response, funlvr1965.

Stu
About your crickett noise, I have/had the same problem. I posted my problem here a few weeks ago but I described it as a matallic rattle, but cricketts work too. At the time I thought it was bulb related but other posters did not seem to agree. My noise stops as sooon as the bulb extinguishes but the fans are still running. Actually, my noise seems to have abatted somewhat recently for whatever reason. I suspect it felt the competion of the RS1 breathing down its neck so it has decided to behave. Anyway, just thought I'd chime in with a similiar problem. Glad yours is working well
bill

I take that to mean it's O.K. to remove the bulb without first releasing the xenon. Right?

Thanks for your response, funlvr1965.


He meant YES, you can remove the bulb w/o releasing the gas. It is my understanding that the gas release is to take place prior to bulb disposal.

Jim

Thanks Jim, for the clarification.

Tryg: Very interested in this thread. I've got 550 hours so I can't pull mine apart, but please keep up the good work.

Yes, DO NOT REMOVE GAS if you are planning it to be a spare lamp!!!

Yes, DO NOT REMOVE GAS if you are planning it to be a spare lamp!!!

Thanks for your tip, joerod

No problem... I just don't want you to earn the hard way... ;)

The manufacture posted an article regarding their xenon tehnology being showcased at CEDIA 2005.
Here is the link: http://optoelectronics.perkinelmer.com/Catalog/Category.aspx?CategoryName=Video+Projection
I didn't find the specific bulb listed at the site. I would guess the bulb is only available to Sony. Does anyone know differently?

Wow! According to this article the life expectancy of the Cermax bulb in the Ruby is 4000 hours.

"In addition to requiring less cooling, it also
extends the lifetime of the lamp, now at an unprecedented 4K hours."

How many people have replaced their bulbs, and at how many hours?

They may last 4,000 but at what level or how dim will it be?

A friend here has 2,300+ hours on his original bulb and the picture has looked the same to me over the past 6 months. Not sure how long it will last but he has vowed to keep using it untill it dies (testing the hours).

Jim

At the price of these lamps we are all better off going with them until they die! ;)

Ive taken the bulb out of its housing in hopes to track down a supplier for a DIY replacement. Ive not had the time to do so. Heres a few pics showing the numbers if someone wants to pursue this.

http://gallery.avsforum.com/data/509/IMG_6102.JPG

http://gallery.avsforum.com/data/509/IMG_6103.JPG

http://gallery.avsforum.com/data/509/IMG_6104.JPG

http://gallery.avsforum.com/data/509/IMG_6106.JPG

Interesting... There has to be someone we can go thru... :)

I cannot find any specs for the Ruby LMP-H400 to verify. I don't know if these can be replaced.

PerkinElmer product no.
XE420C-13FH - 400 Watt Xenon Lamp
XE420C-10FH - 400 Watt Xenon Lamp
http://optoelectronics.perkinelmer.com/content/RelatedLinks/SpecificationSheets/SPC_VideoProj.pdf


If someone got the guts to do it please post. How about doing a 500w XE550C-13FH with this power supply also. Maybe we can get a brighter Ruby. :eek:
http://www.eurosep.com/Dep_light/applisl/dc500weba.pdf

Looks like a custom job, doesn't resemble physically any of the bulbs shown in the catalog. Probably the closest spec wise is the XE420C-13FH but no shape or dimensions shown for that one.

At 749-1000 for replacements we have to put our heads together and figure something out! ;)

Has anyone tried to contact Ralph at Atlas Lighting?? He came up with the G15 replacement, he might have some ideas.

I have xenon on my 35mm projector and the power supply works with bulbs from 500 to 1000 watts so I think we may have some flexibility here. The trick will be finding something that fits the case with the same contact points for the electro connections/pressure points in this case. The front ring is the positive with the chassie being the negative.
If someone finds something let me know and I will be the gini pig seeing as my cage is apart ready to accept a new bulb. I do not think a higher wattage bulb would be good because of the additional heat.

What about placing a cpu thermal compound around the higher watt bulb like artic silver http://www.xoxide.com/arcticsilver5.html or better yet watercool it :p lol

Hey Alan does the flange on the front of the lamp come off? I see some Xenon lamps out there that look close and that seems to be the differentiating factor.

It looks like indeed it was added and would come off but there is glue or something and I cannot break it loose. I am sure it is not needed just as long as the new bulb is reseated at the same distance. Im sure this ring served as a reference to speed things up for those on the assembly line, just pop it in and it would not go past a certain point.

Thanks Alan. I tried my lamp people with little help.

Im confident we will be able to find a substitute. I wish I had more time to devote to this. Maybe someone can contact Ralph at atlas. I think he would be a good starting point. If these bulbs were not $500 each, I would pick up a few and hook them up externally, jumper cables, to see what works and then work on making them fit within the Heat sink housing.

Im confident we will be able to find a substitute. I wish I had more time to devote to this. Maybe someone can contact Ralph at atlas. I think he would be a good starting point. If these bulbs were not $500 each, I would pick up a few and hook them up externally, jumper cables, to see what works and then work on making them fit within the Heat sink housing.


How about a fund raiser of this experiment? I am sure everyone (ruby owners) has a Paypal account. Count me in if everyone is game.

Count me in to! :)

I'm in.

Alan - if it isn't too much trouble and if you have a caliper laying around.. could you give us some dimensions? Diameter and length.

I agree there is something out there. There is money to be made (nice little kit with "how to's") and money to be saved.

Kraig I will grab some measurements later tonight. Ill have some more time next week to devote to this and plan on ordering a few possibilities. I need to call Ralph.

Thanks for your efforts Alan. I'm willing to help in any way and I'm sure others are. Let us know how we can jump in.

Update: We found the bulb. Someone here has been tagged the gini pig and will have it next week.
If it works as it should then everyone will be given the details. Ill bow out until we hear from Mr Beta tester:)

Wow, This is Fantastic!

This will make a lot of Ruby owners very happy.

If you guys pull this off I will FREAK OUT with happiness! :)

Alan;
This is excellent news!!

I am looking forward to hearing back from Mr. BETA!
____
Axel

Alan;
This is excellent news!!

I am looking forward to hearing back from Mr. BETA!
____
Axel


If this works.....I'm in for two!

Peter

Same here! :)

Wow! According to this article the life expectancy of the Cermax bulb in the Ruby is 4000 hours.

"In addition to requiring less cooling, it also
extends the lifetime of the lamp, now at an unprecedented 4K hours."

How many people have replaced their bulbs, and at how many hours?

Interesting. The blue symbol looks identical but the body seems to be longer on the Sony bulb. Maybe contacting this maker is a piece of the puzzle?

Guys,

I'm your guinea pig reporting in with new lamp installed and working. I have a few pics but am too lazy to post them and they aren't anything you haven't seen.

How much? TBD, there is a worthwile savings.
Who is selling? Alan will be putting those interested in touch with the supplier.

What I can tell you is I ordered it last Friday and had it yesterday afternoon as promised. It took me one hour to replace it. Two things of note - You will need a phillips screwdriver with at least a 6" extension. I couldn't find mine and had to go buy one. The second thing is you will need some of the fancy grease to put on the new one. I was able to rub enough off the old with my finger but it would be best to have a small tube of new grease. The supplier might be able to sell this as well, no sure though.

I recommend taking pictures of the lamp/housing setup from all sides so you know how it goes back together, lots of screw. There are 6 screws on the cover of the housing to get the sinks and lamp assembly out.

In all very straight forward and worthwile IMO. One question - I don't see how to reset the lamp timer? I have gone into the service menu and it isn't obvious. Any ideas.

Thanks Kraig you are the man. Just what we wanted to hear.
Everyone who is interested you can PM Kraig or myself for contact information:)

Way to go KraigK! Nice work!!! :)

Thanks Kraig you are the man. Just what we wanted to hear.
Everyone who is interested you can PM Kraig or myself for contact information:)

Kraig heres the info on resetting the lamp timer:
http://gallery.avsforum.com/data/509/screenshot_013.jpg


kraigk;
Excellent job!! Much appreciated.
Any pointers how this lamp performs/behaves in regards to the original lamp, brightness, color uniformity, etc.?

I am interested in getting one. Alan, how about a power-buy? :)

TIA!
____
Axel

Guys,

I'm your guinea pig reporting in with new lamp installed and working. I have a few pics but am too lazy to post them and they aren't anything you haven't seen.

How much? TBD, there is a worthwile savings.
Who is selling? Alan will be putting those interested in touch with the supplier.

What I can tell you is I ordered it last Friday and had it yesterday afternoon as promised. It took me one hour to replace it. Two things of note - You will need a phillips screwdriver with at least a 6" extension. I couldn't find mine and had to go buy one. The second thing is you will need some of the fancy grease to put on the new one. I was able to rub enough off the old with my finger but it would be best to have a small tube of new grease. The supplier might be able to sell this as well, no sure though.

I recommend taking pictures of the lamp/housing setup from all sides so you know how it goes back together, lots of screw. There are 6 screws on the cover of the housing to get the sinks and lamp assembly out.

In all very straight forward and worthwile IMO. One question - I don't see how to reset the lamp timer? I have gone into the service menu and it isn't obvious. Any ideas.


This is greatly appreciated, thanks for your research. :D
I bet that grease is for better heat transfer to the sink and the supplier should have some.
Is that larger white ring a Sony add on or also part of the lamp you received?

....- You will need a phillips screwdriver with at least a 6" extension. I couldn't find mine and had to go buy one. ....

kraigk;
Just to make sure I have understood you correctly, this 6" extension is only needed to reach the Phillips screw that holds the lamp assembly in the PJ, correct?
____
Axel

Axel - Exactly. A standard philips has a shaft of about 4-5 inches and comes up short. Home Depot had the 8" length for $6.99. That is the only way to loosen those four screws to drop the lamp.

CharlesJ - The lamp is idententical, no jerry rigging. It is a bit of a goardian knot getting down to just the lamp but once you do they are tit for tat one and the same with the ring/flange on it.


Axel - As for the color uniformity I can't say yet as I haven't done any calibration or tuning. I will say though that picture has that pop you will recall from when you first got your Ruby. The 10 minutes I watched it looked spot on with the colors but that is subjective. Fun to have a new lamp. I'll cherish these first two hundred hours :).

Alan - Thanks for doing this! Much appreciated. And thanks for the lamp reset.

I will try this cool replacement stunt with my spare lamp. Then when football season hits I will put it in. Awesome job again guys! At this savings I will replace my lamp once a year for sure now! :)

Outstanding work as always. Man I love this site.

Alan, sent a PM. :)

kraigk,
Thanks for taking on this project and making sure that this could be done. A+ job!
BOBCAT

kraigk, great job. You the man! :D

This is really a good alternative to paying 750+ per lamp replacement! :)

Don't thank me. Alan did all the leg work and it was really just self serving on my part. I had no doubt it would work as reported.

I am not able to reset my lamp timer doing this: reset, left arrow, right arrow, enter. All I see on screen is "not applicable". Enlighten me someone.

One other thing on the lamp replacement.. in your Ruby manual one of the first steps after getting the cover off is releasing the Xenon gas by turning a screw clockwise. Unless you are going to throw away your old lamp don't do this. All this screw does is cut a hole into the prong sticking off the back of your lamp and release the gas basically killing the lamp. I for one would prefer to keep a working lamp around just in case..

GOOD POINT! Do not let the gas out! :)

Kraig it was team effort :)

I just dug out the manual, one important part of the process is missing in the notes for the lamp reset, the projector must be in standby mode. Im sorry :o

http://gallery.avsforum.com/data/509/screenshot_016.jpg

In addition to above,

apparently the PJ expects you to be coming directly from installing the lamp: I had to re-trip the cover interlock (I re-loosened the lamp cover as well-don't know if it has a interlock) after mis-keying on my Pronto remote.

In addition to above,

apparently the PJ expects you to be coming directly from installing the lamp: I had to re-trip the cover interlock (I re-loosened the lamp cover as well-don't know if it has a interlock) after mis-keying on my Pronto remote.

Good tip!!

Kraig it was team effort :)

I just dug out the manual, one important part of the process is missing in the notes for the lamp reset, the projector must be in standby mode. Im sorry :o

http://gallery.avsforum.com/data/509/screenshot_016.jpg

I just replaced my bulb and had a heck of a time resetting the timer. I thought I had done everything right but no joy. Finally, I turned on the projector and nothing else....just had the blue screen and then did the reset left arrow right arrow enter....and it worked.

Alan, thank you for your efforts in supporting this initiative. Kraig, as has been said already, you are the man!!!!!! This forum continues to offer value waaaay beyond expectations. This site should be designated a world heritage site.

Kraig, as noted above I have just replaced my bulb so I think I will buy a couple of spares to have on hand. I am NOT known for my adeptness in getting complex mechanical things to work well. Now that I have the housing for the old bulb out of the projector how difficult is it to figure out how to open it up? I know its a subjective answer but for some of us this stuff is not intuitive..........and there are no instructions. Also the grease that you referred to....if the supplier of the bulb doesn't have it, does it seem like it would be a common substance that would be carried by, say, a big box Home Depot ?????

Finally if my narrative is not too annoying, is there any hint of going up in power to say a six hundred watt bulb???? or is that too risky?

Peter

... Also the grease that you referred to....if the supplier of the bulb doesn't have it, does it seem like it would be a common substance that would be carried by, say, a big box Home Depot ?????

Peter

I believe what you are looking for is thermal compound "grease" that transfers heat. It is used for CPU to heat sinks, so this is the same application.

You are not going to find in a hardware store. Perhaps in Radio Shack or Micro Center. Otherwise, get it on the web.

Here is a link to a larger sized product that is well known:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835100008

Enjoy!

Thanks for the link! :)

Talking to the supplier he made of point of saying the grease was not needed. When talking in person I would ask for his reasoning.
I would not recommend a higher wattage bulb. I heard they could have got more brightness out of this bulb but it is throttled back due to heat restrictions which could damage the panels. It would have been nice to be able to get Qualia brightness out of this thing :)

So we don't need the grease... One less thing. :)

Talking to the supplier he made of point of saying the grease was not needed. When talking in person I would ask for his reasoning.
I would not recommend a higher wattage bulb. I heard they could have got more brightness out of this bulb but it is throttled back due to heat restrictions which could damage the panels. It would have been nice to be able to get Qualia brightness out of this thing :)

Thank you Alan, Dennis for the feedback........

Peter

Kraig, as noted above I have just replaced my bulb so I think I will buy a couple of spares to have on hand. I am NOT known for my adeptness in getting complex mechanical things to work well. Now that I have the housing for the old bulb out of the projector how difficult is it to figure out how to open it up? I know its a subjective answer but for some of us this stuff is not intuitive..........and there are no instructions. Peter

Peter,

I don't think replacing the lamp is too hard, especially when you have a housing outside of the unit ready to go. That is an ideal setup and makes for a quick replacement.

Look at where the Xenon lamp is in relation to the housing (on center top on mine) before starting.

There are six screws on one side of the housing, 4 on one edge and two on the other and then you can get the heat sink/lamp assembly out. The sinks have 3 screws on one side and four on the other and then some clips holding it together as well. It is a screw and snap together model. If you are prone to forgetting where things go take some pictures at each step and make it easy to retrace steps and see what goes where.

Once apart and then back together with the new lamp there are 8 different allen screws that provide for adjustment for up and down, right and left of the lamp in relation to the housing. This isn't a critical panel alignenment thing. It is just about getting your lamp centered and shooting lumens on target. You'll see what I mean.

For reference I've not done this before and it took an hour. Take your time and know where things go and remember there aren't any extra screws and you'll be fine ;) .


Also thanks Alan and everyone for the lamp reset. I did it while the pj was in standby and it worked no problem.

Peter,

I don't think replacing the lamp is too hard, especially when you have a housing outside of the unit ready to go. That is an ideal setup and makes for a quick replacement.

Look at where the Xenon lamp is in relation to the housing (on center top on mine) before starting.

There are six screws on one side of the housing, 4 on one edge and two on the other and then you can get the heat sink/lamp assembly out. The sinks have 3 screws on one side and four on the other and then some clips holding it together as well. It is a screw and snap together model. If you are prone to forgetting where things go take some pictures at each step and make it easy to retrace steps and see what goes where.

Once apart and then back together with the new lamp there are 8 different allen screws that provide for adjustment for up and down, right and left of the lamp in relation to the housing. This isn't a critical panel alignenment thing. It is just about getting your lamp centered and shooting lumens on target. You'll see what I mean.

For reference I've not done this before and it took an hour. Take your time and know where things go and remember there aren't any extra screws and you'll be fine ;) .


Also thanks Alan and everyone for the lamp reset. I did it while the pj was in standby and it worked no problem.


Thanks Kraig..........I'm printing this out and glueing it to my proj>>>>>>

Peter

Kraig it was team effort :)

I just dug out the manual, one important part of the process is missing in the notes for the lamp reset, the projector must be in standby mode. Im sorry :o



Great. Now I know that the manual is this complete with answers. Will mark the page :D

...Once apart and then back together with the new lamp there are 8 different allen screws that provide for adjustment for up and down, right and left of the lamp in relation to the housing. This isn't a critical panel alignenment thing. It is just about getting your lamp centered and shooting lumens on target. You'll see what I mean.
.

Did you have to remove these screws to replace the lamp? If not and the lamp has no slop room in the installation process, I would think that the lamp would be pretty much centered? Or, each lamp has filament that may be slightly in a different location, hence the throw pattern may be off?
Did you have to use these screws to readjust?

To be fair, I think it was Tryg who mentioned where to try for the bulb and we struck gold so I do not want to leave him out of the loop.

Did you have to remove these screws to replace the lamp? If not and the lamp has no slop room in the installation process, I would think that the lamp would be pretty much centered? Or, each lamp has filament that may be slightly in a different location, hence the throw pattern may be off?
Did you have to use these screws to readjust?


Charles,

I had to use these screws very little. They did work though. When you get it apart you'll see what I'm talking about. The lamp cand definitely be off center in the housing.

GREAT JOB guys !!!
Can you tell us if we can buy this lamp here in Europe (pm).
Christophe
A french forum ruby's owner guy:
homecinema-fr

Charles,

I had to use these screws very little. They did work though. When you get it apart you'll see what I'm talking about. The lamp cand definitely be off center in the housing.


Great. Thanks again. Just like to know as much beforehand than wishing afterwards a different path :D

chord

Welcome to the forum. PM sent!

I had about 1300 on mine. I had sent the pj in for service, it had developed a noise that sounded like there were crickets in the room! Well it turned out to be the bulb. Sony service wanted to replace the bulb for list price. They also did the hard start mod and checked the convergence.

Yes the crickets is a very good description. I bought a second hand Ruby, still in guaranty and with prime support. Convergences were bad and I had the noise on a 300 hour lamp.

My unit was away for 2 months, when they gave it back they replaced the lamp (bulb too?) but the auto -iris was broken. Had to send it back, and after again two months Sony proposed to let me keep the replacement unit, that had 30 hours when I got it.

So I did. But soon the crickets were back, again around 300 hours!

I would send it back... Seriously, that is just unacceptable...

Charles,

I had to use these screws very little. They did work though. When you get it apart you'll see what I'm talking about. The lamp cand definitely be off center in the housing.

I am about to order two spare bulbs......will I be the second customer or has anyone else jumped in the 'pool' yet?

Peter

I am about to order two spare bulbs......will I be the second customer or has anyone else jumped in the 'pool' yet?

Peter

Come on Peter - Are you planning on ridding the
Ruby into the grave [GRIN]!

Save the money and BUY a new PJ instead [GRIN]
When it comes out. http://www.rx8web.com/smilies/bouncy.gif

Come on Peter - Are you planning on ridding the
Ruby into the grave [GRIN]!

Save the money and BUY a new PJ instead [GRIN]
When it comes out. http://www.rx8web.com/smilies/bouncy.gif

IF, it is a generational leap ahead of the Ruby I will be unable to prevent the purchase......I won't be able to sleep untill that thirst is quenched.......for the time being. BUT, it really, really has to be a generational leap forward. Besides Hank, I figure I'll keep the ruby for my wife's system.

Peter

Im still enjoying my Ruby and do not think it has been fully trumped yet. It holds its own by todays standards. It may remain a contender for another generation or so before being fully de throned which in todays fast pace advancements in technology I consider pretty good.

Im still enjoying my Ruby and do not think it has been fully trumped yet. It holds its own by todays standards. It may remain a contender for another generation or so before being fully de throned which in todays fast pace advancements in technology I consider pretty good.

I don't disagree with either you or Peter.

But I have to expect the not-announced Diamond - will
make us all think about upgrading, since the Ruby is
still stuck in the 20th Century without 1080p/24 support.

I'll be disappointed if the Diamond does not make us jump
:p based on what I THINK I KNOW :D .

I don't disagree with either you or Peter.

But I have to expect the not-announced Diamond - will
make us all think about upgrading, since the Ruby is
still stuck in the 20th Century without 1080p/24 support.

I'll be disappointed if the Diamond does not make us jump
:p based on what I THINK I KNOW :D .

The lack of 24 on the Ruby is no concern for me as the Lumagen scaler allows me to take 24 or 1080i source and feed the projector 48 with the same judder free results.

As far the Diamond I would love to see the next king of the hill announced. I think all of us here share we are on the cutting edge regardless what we own and will always welcome advancement with open arms. Bring it on.

One thing to remember, everything sounds to god to be true until it ships and we get some real world feedback. Both the Ruby and the RS1 have their issues yet both remain a solid contender. The Diamond will have its issues. Nothing is perfect but with each new generation hopefully the manufactures are learning. What would make me jump the fence would not be a larger on/off number ( it would take a huge number beyond doubling for most to notice a difference ) but a doubling in ANSI for SXRD. I doubt we will see that in the Diamond but I never say never. It will most likely be brighter with some glitch fixes and some new features.

I plan to order a bulb soon. I will experiment with it right before football season begins!

As for the ruby, I agree with Alan. There still is not enough of a change in pic Q to make me jump. I still plan to keep the Ruby for another year or maybe longer. When something comes out that is night and day difference then I will think more about it. I am (so is mu family) still very happy with the pic Q in my theater. I do plan to one day settle with a 3 chip 1080p DLP but that will obvisouly be further down the road... :)

The lack of 24 on the Ruby is no concern for me as the Lumagen scaler allows me to take 24 or 1080i source and feed the projector 48 with the same judder free results.

You may get Judder free - but the picture quality
over DVI - STINKS - versus HDMI.

Actually the pic Q on the Ruby (DVI and HDMI) are nearly identical. I still prefer using my HDMI input but that is mainly because everything else I have is HDMI...

You may get Judder free - but the picture quality
over DVI - STINKS - versus HDMI.

In addition to the Ruby I do at times spend weeks with other projectors including 3 hip 1080 DLP. All are HDMI. You might be seeing something I am not. I will also admit you may be more technical then myself so I do not know what to look for but I will say I hate HDMI. I find DVI far more stable in both build quality and performance as far as stability/ hand shaking. Just when DVI was working well they changed to HDMI and its been hell ever sense but from pure specs HDMI has DVI beat.

Actually the pic Q on the Ruby (DVI and HDMI) are nearly identical. I still prefer using my HDMI input but that is mainly because everything else I have is HDMI...

NO WAY JOSE!

YOU ARE THE Mr. A/B comparison person.

I can't watch anything on the DVI port that PQ is so bad.

Levesque and other reviewers confirm this.

The PQ softens.

In addition to the Ruby I do at times spend weeks with other projectors including 3 hip 1080 DLP. All are HDMI. You might be seeing something I am not. I will also admit you may be more technical then myself so I do not know what to look for but I will say I hate HDMI. I find DVI far more stable in both build quality and performance as far as stability/ hand shaking. Just when DVI was working well they changed to HDMI and its been hell ever sense but from pure specs HDMI has DVI beat.

It is stable - I AGREE.

But it is a much SOFTER picture than HDMI.

See my previous post about other reviewers.

ALSO - what is your DVI Cable length?

The PQ softens.

We all know that the Ruby adds ringing. In this case I benefit from using the DVI port as to my eye if it is softer that leads to a more film look. But that is personal taste. If you prefer HDMI it is good we have this choice.

Edit: We posted at the same time. This is only the case with the Ruby. With other projectors using DVI they are not rolling off the upper frequency's. That is a related to the Ruby not the connector.

We all know that the Ruby adds ringing. In this case I benefit from using the DVI port as to my eye if it is softer that leads to a more film look. But that is personal taste. If you prefer HDMI it is good we have this choice.

I use an Anthem D2 which has a Built in Video
Scaler - like the Lumagen - I can output 1080p/48
via DVI or 1080p/60 via HDMI - using a 1080p/24
Pioneer BDP-HD1 source.

I can do a live switch from one to the other.

When I use DVI - I feel like I'm going back to my
OLD CRT's which are now sitting in a JUNK pile
in my cellar. Maybe it looks more film-like - but
since I can switch back and forth in almost real-time
- I have a fresh comparison point.

As an example - I used Fantom of the Opera - Blu-Ray
as a test source.

I used the scene when they are in the Lobby of the
Opera house - which has tremendous detail. I even
FROZE the frame and switched back and forth. The
sharpness of the detail goes away via DVI.

You have to completely calibrate the DVI input to get it to your tastes. I have a crystalio II which pretty much can make anything look good. I have both inputs fully calibrated and when I would do A/B comparisons nearly everyone could not tell the difference. I don't know why you called me MR. A/B COMPARISON because many of us here at AVS compare products all the time. I did post I just use the HDMI input but I also use the DVI with my xbox 360 ELITE at 1080p... Now the ELITE looks awesome on the DVI input on the Ruby!

You may get Judder free - but the picture quality
over DVI - STINKS - versus HDMI.


Hank.......always the subtle member of the family!!!!!!

My head agrees with the majority view on this.....the Ruby is part of a generation that will be hard to beat in terms of WOW. Its sort of like the Lotus 123/Excell debate.....there was alot that could be said for both untill Microsoft changed the game with Office....Suddenly Lotus joins Novel, Banyon, Wordperfect and Harvard Graphics as 'the previous generation'. Annnd now its probably Google's turn at bat!

My heart sort of hopes that your instincts are correct Hank. I can hardly wait for the next technological leap that raises the emotional threshold for this stuff. Somehow I think I would very much like the machine that captured your desire.......I just agree that I think we may still be further from your dream than any of us would hope for in the short run. It also will probably NOT help the global warming debate which in turn makes it even less than a mediocre probabability for a priority from Sony.

If you get a chance take a look at 'THE Untouchables" in HD. I can only imagine what that movie would be like on a properly calibrated system. My Ruby with the new bulb out of the box was absolutely stunning. This movie made me really think seriously about changing my screen and delivering the proper aspect ratio as there was very little else I was missing for the best in 'home' entertainment!

Peter

My prediction 2009...

We all know that the Ruby adds ringing. In this case I benefit from using the DVI port as to my eye if it is softer that leads to a more film look. But that is personal taste. If you prefer HDMI it is good we have this choice.

Edit: We posted at the same time. This is only the case with the Ruby. With other projectors using DVI they are not rolling off the upper frequency's. That is a related to the Ruby not the connector.

What irritates me even more - is I'm an EE - I have
the schematics of the Ruby. When I look at the DVI
logic path and the HDMI logic path - there is a minor
difference.

Also - Memory location 13 support 1080p/50.

Therefore the logic can easily support 1080p/48.

BUT SONY has the scan memory programmed to
turn-off the HDMI port if it sees a 48fps signal.

That SUCKS - because one memory change in
the Ruby could UPDATE the whole PJ to 1080p/48
vis HDMI.

Sony won't do it.

You have to completely calibrate the DVI input to get it to your tastes. I have a crystalio II which pretty much can make anything look good. I have both inputs fully calibrated and when I would do A/B comparisons nearly everyone could not tell the difference. I don't know why you called me MR. A/B COMPARISON because many of us here at AVS compare products all the time. I did post I just use the HDMI input but I also use the DVI with my xbox 360 ELITE at 1080p... Now the ELITE looks awesome on the DVI input on the Ruby!

Color calibration is one thing and I agree my DVI
is NOT calibrated. But no calibration can adjust
SHARPNESS that is a function of the PJ.

I called you Mr. A/B - because you have taken a
lot of valuable time to DO A/B comparisons and
report them here.. IT WAS A COMPLEMENT! ;)

Hank.......always the subtle member of the family!!!!!!

My head agrees with the majority view on this.....the Ruby is part of a generation that will be hard to beat in terms of WOW. Its sort of like the Lotus 123/Excell debate.....there was alot that could be said for both untill Microsoft changed the game with Office....Suddenly Lotus joins Novel, Banyon, Wordperfect and Harvard Graphics as 'the previous generation'. Annnd now its probably Google's turn at bat!

My heart sort of hopes that your instincts are correct Hank. I can hardly wait for the next technological leap that raises the emotional threshold for this stuff. Somehow I think I would very much like the machine that captured your desire.......I just agree that I think we may still be further from your dream than any of us would hope for in the short run. It also will probably NOT help the global warming debate which in turn makes it even less than a mediocre probabability for a priority from Sony.

If you get a chance take a look at 'THE Untouchables" in HD. I can only imagine what that movie would be like on a properly calibrated system. My Ruby with the new bulb out of the box was absolutely stunning. This movie made me really think seriously about changing my screen and delivering the proper aspect ratio as there was very little else I was missing for the best in 'home' entertainment!

Peter

Thanks Perter for making me BUY yet another HD DVD.

My prediction 2009...

Cedia - Denver - September 2007.

Thanks Perter for making me BUY yet another HD DVD.

Actually Hank.....in your case it should be a great first........as far as I know it is the first disk that I have seen in HD dvd that the sound options are dolby trueHD or DTS 6.1 es. Whoever did the sound on this HD production did an excellent job. Use of the subs are NOT muddy....very very tight ...otherwise very very quiet at reference levels.

Peter

ps. you'll thank me.

My prediction 2009...


Mine too, but don't tell Hank.........

Gotcha, thanks. I admit the HDMI is my favorite again but I have had pretty good results getting the DVI to look somewhat close. Man, I wish there was a way we could make sony update our Rubys. Even if we offered a good payment... Any ideas? :)

I won't post a word! :D

Gotcha, thanks. I admit the HDMI is my favorite again but I have had pretty good results getting the DVI to look somewhat close. Man, I wish there was a way we could make sony update our Rubys. Even if we offered a good payment... Any ideas? :)

Actually yes I do but its already been tried. I would threaten to send them Hank but...hold on, you won't believe this.....he already went after them on his own. Scary thing was that he knew more about the product than they did!!!!! Personally I think they put a microchip in his brain.....you can tell because he tilts every time he passes a wi-fi hot spot........

Gotcha, thanks. I admit the HDMI is my favorite again but I have had pretty good results getting the DVI to look somewhat close. Man, I wish there was a way we could make sony update our Rubys. Even if we offered a good payment... Any ideas? :)

I did go after the U.S. Design engineer for the Ruby,
person to person.

At first he said it couldn't be done until I showed
him I had the schematics, and I showed him exactly
which ROM chip needed to be reprogrammed. I even
asked him for the tools to do it myself - and I would
take responsibility for any screw-ups.

Then he said it was Sony's position to not provide
that upgrade in the Ruby.

A Good Sony Employee :D

So I guess we need to wait until the Diamond comes out. I am anxious to see how much better it will be. If it does shine then there is a chance I amy jump. If it is just a little bit better than I will wait until the next gen after that one... :)

My guess it will be brighter and it will have an iris and if engaged it will offer better on/off then the Ruby. ANSI will remain in DLPs corner. I would like to see a selection of high end optics offered to accommodate different throws.

NO WAY JOSE!

YOU ARE THE Mr. A/B comparison person.

I can't watch anything on the DVI port that PQ is so bad.

Levesque and other reviewers confirm this.

The PQ softens.


Ditto that!
I rather watch a sharper image @ 60hz than an even softer (judder-free) @ 48hz.

____
Axel

My guess it will be brighter and it will have an iris and if engaged it will offer better on/off then the Ruby. ANSI will remain in DLPs corner. I would like to see a selection of high end optics offered to accommodate different throws.

Yes - but you are forgetting about some HOT NEW
FEATURES like 120Hz and Electronic CONVERSION :D

Ditto that!
I rather watch a sharper image @ 60hz than an even softer (judder-free) @ 48hz.

____
Axel

I'm glad someone else agrees with me :D

Ive edited the title, Qualia is now added. Anyone wanting a DIY solution for your Qualia that lamp can be had as well.

That's fantastic news for us Qualia owners as well..at $3K a pop to replace it. When I get my constant height set up going, I am going to be burning thru bulbs in high lamp mode.

So, I assume the source has the 700W Xenon for the Qualia?

Are the Ruby and Qualia cartrides similar?? (any guess on the cost)?

Jeff PM sent:)

Bulbs are what flowers come from!!!!!!!

Lamps are sources of light!!!!!

Sorry, it has been a pet peeve from my production days when we stocked lamps for Slide projectors, film projectors, Overhead Projectors, Opaque projectors... etc. (anybody know what an EXR is?)

Bulbs are what flowers come from!!!!!!!

Lamps are sources of light!!!!!
(anybody know what an EXR is?)

Noted and edited, changed to Lamps :)
Heres an EXR lamp.
http://www.topbulb.com/find/Product_Description.asp?intProductID=44024

drhankz,
If you could program another ROM, do you know what to change?
There are programers out there that can pop just about any ROM, Eprom Prom. You name it, there is a programer out there that can do it, and they are not that expensive.

drhankz,
If you could program another ROM, do you know what to change?
There are programers out there that can pop just about any ROM, Eprom Prom. You name it, there is a programer out there that can do it, and they are not that expensive.

Yes and No ;)

The one thing I do know is there is an enable line from
the ROM to the HDMI Multiplexer which turns it OFF
when it sees any frequency that is not programmed
in the ROM - like 1080p/48. That I could even fix with
a JUMPER WIRE :p

The thing I don't know is there are probably many other
parameters in the ROM that need to be tweaked to
support 1080p/48. Those parameters would probably
be in some tool set - I assume SONY has. I don't know
how to tweak those parameters without some Programming
tool from Sony.

Reprogramming the ROM is not the problem - knowing
which parameters to tweak for the 1080p/48 frequency
is the unknown. I would start with MEMORY LOCATION
13 - which supports 1080p/50 as the closest example.

But without tool set - the best I could do is use a jumper
and see what happens. I would make sure the HDMI
port NEVER turns OFF. It is the only input I use. I
would also disable all the other ports to make sure none
of them turn on as the Memory switches to location
ZERO - which is the default location for any unknown
frequency.

That is how 1080p/48 via DVI works - it selects memory
ZERO instead of Memory Location 9 which is 1080i/48.

Now we just need to find replacement lamps for the Pearl, and it will be a complete set!

Especially given the number of us who have had the Pearl's lamp balloon and fail at ~500 hours or so... :mad:

Now we just need to find replacement lamps for the Pearl, and it will be a complete set!

Especially given the number of us who have had the Pearl's lamp balloon and fail at ~500 hours or so... :mad:

Its a little different for you guys. Its an easy DIY for the xenon bulb as it just slides into its cradle and we are done. Thats not the case for you guys. A diy for you is a little more involved and I do not think the average person could do it properly.

I bet these guys can help you :)
www.relampit.com

Ive edited the title, Qualia is now added. Anyone wanting a DIY solution for your Qualia that lamp can be had as well.
How nice of you to accommodate Jeff and myself. ;) I believe we are the remaining 004 owners that still post here on AVS. Believe it or not, I'm still on my first bulb, and have confirmed that Sony will replace it once for free.

But you know who I'll come to when I need to buy a replacement. Unless Sony comes out with an 004 equivalent. We shall see.

But you know who I'll come to when I need to buy a replacement. Unless Sony comes out with an 004 equivalent. We shall see.

The 004 replacement has already been announced today on
a different thread :D

Unless Sony comes out with an 004 equivalent.

SEE THIS THREAD (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=11021547&&#post11021547)

693 hours on my first bulb in low lamp mode (1507 hours to go):). I already have my unused relacement from Sony in house...But this is a fantastic offering...I can run my Qualia all day now and sell it with a brand new bulb when ready!!!!

I got my DIY Ruby lamp, thanks everybody. I am keeping it as a spare until needed, and yes, it looks just like the stock bulb from the disassembled housing. It has a plastic coating around the flange, so maybe that is why it doesn't need the thermal paste.

Awesome! I may "fix" my lamp next month... ;)

Thanks Kraig you are the man. Just what we wanted to hear.
Everyone who is interested you can PM Kraig or myself for contact information:)

Alan, you have a PM. Thanks!!!!

So I'm a bit confused, it sounds like from reading through five pages of postings that we have a good alternative (DIY) to the stock Ruby lamp replacement but I don't see anywhere on exactly what/where to get it or how to do it. Am I missing a post or is this a guarded secret?
Thanks!

I did go after the U.S. Design engineer for the Ruby,
person to person.

At first he said it couldn't be done until I showed
him I had the schematics, and I showed him exactly
which ROM chip needed to be reprogrammed. I even
asked him for the tools to do it myself - and I would
take responsibility for any screw-ups.

Then he said it was Sony's position to not provide
that upgrade in the Ruby.

A Good Sony Employee :D

That is what bother me the most....

The Jvc engineers, have put on line several "upgrades" to make the HD 1 better.

The Ruby was sold here in Europe for 10.000 €. Now I know some people have a lot of means, but for an average buyer, this is a LOT of money.

Now I can understand that better circuits, comes out, lenses, better components. But if my Ruby's software can be updated to accept 48 hz through HDMI, and who knows 24 hz, so I would not need an expensive scaler, just to feed it with a BD/HDDVD player.

Now Sony will not supply this service. The ruby is for the rest a very good projector, but the policy behind this, is just that they will prefer you to buy the latest model, then to upgrade something on the older one, that is easy to do!

I can't sell my Ruby to loose on my investment and cough up again some important cash, to just have these features, when I am happy with the picture quality.

Anyone tried to replace the bulb yet??? Any luck??

Guys...

Is there a cheaper way to replace your lamp than paying $850 for the LMP-H400 lamp?

I see people here say they have done it, but do not state how.. Any help is appreciated....


Rite-Way

How much did the lamp end up costing? I'm considering buying a Ruby refurbed. The lamp price is a big issue...
thanks!
Sam

I'd like to get hold of one of these replacement lamps and am interested to know whether anyone has had any luck finding supplier in Europe - particularly the UK?

I've found one supplier in Europe who might be able to supply the lamp - but they need to know the exact model number. I understand from this thred and material from Perkin Elmer website that it might be either XE420C-13FH 420 or XE550C-10FH. It would be really helpful if someone could confirm if either of these is correct.

I'd appreciate any help you can offer.

Steve

FYI, replacement lamps have been listed on ebay for sale the last few weeks. The bid price is $400 and I just received one yesterday.

Finally! A price drop! Is it in brand new condition? :)

Let us know how you make out replacing it.

Alan gave me the OK to give the ebay item number. It is a Buy It Now, brand new bulbs, not the entire modules. 29 units are available @ $400 plus shipping. Only 20 hours left. I will try to install my bulb and test it today.

Here is the item# 160256409526
and the link http://cgi.e***.com/Replacement-Lamp-LMP-H400-for-Sony-modules_W0QQitemZ160256409526QQihZ006QQcategoryZ71583QQssPag eNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

Cut and paste and fix the e*** with ebay.

Are these Qualia lamps?

Tryg, the seller's ad states they are replacement lamps for the LMP-H400 lamp modules. You should write a question to him.

Perhaps someone else knows whether the Ruby and Qualia bulbs are the same.

BTW, the bulb was shipped from a return address that is a known AVS source.

Hi All, I emailed the seller of that lamp and asked him if there was a higher power lamp available, He responded "There is going to be a Sony unit coming out that will double the power but not yet" I emailed him back and asked if it was for the VW100/200. will post his reply.

They responded that it would be for a new projector.

A new PJ? :eek: I wonder which one they are talking about... Not that I have any plans to switch to a new one... :)

He is talking about the upcoming Sony 4k. It uses a larger xenon lamp.
I do not think there is a VW200 replacement.

Hi Alan,
Ok, thanks. That was a close one! I'm Very happy with my VW200, and don't need to be tempted with another offering from Sony for about............. a year or two....or....:rolleyes:

Will the 4K be 40K? :)

Will the 4K be 40K? :)

At least!

That's probably a food thing. That will keep my temptation to get it away. ;)
Besides, we are doing a nice inground pool set up next...

Hi

I bought one of these lamps from this ebay seller and it arrived here in the UK earlier this week. I've fitted it and it seems to be working just fine. I've, therefore, ordered a second one as a spare. This time it was "buy it now" or "best offer" and I got it a bit below the $400 asking price. For those interested, the postage by insured FDEX to the UK was $80.

I need to do something. My lamp is quickly approaching the 1,000 mark! :eek:

got the bulb off ebay and installed it and my ruby now is back in the original pre alan tweak and its bright and black again. you do have to wipe the thermal grease off the barrel of the old lamp and smear it on the new one since thats how it was and it probably helps heat transfer. thanks for the tip. it takes half an hour. reset timer no problemo.

I think you could fit one of these:

http://www.bvmjets.com/turbine/p70.jpg

16 pounds of thrust at 120,000 rpm.

I think it's about 120db at Idle.

:eek:


Yep, i went to a show, you should have seen this big boy (50 or so) cry like
a baby when his Sabre powered F14 replica clipped a pole and exploded, no injuries though. I have only gone as far as prop bite, my trainer received so many coats of glue that only my 1.2 CC O-S 4 stroke could lift it anymore. The Joss Stick fared better, and i only flew the midge P51 Mustang replica after two shots of espresso.

Anyway now my hobby is 3 kids, all under 5, and the HT is the recharging station before a short night's sleep, then back to work. Yeah, modelling is a great hobby, i may pick it up again when i retire in 40 years or so.

This a bit urgent.

i can buy this on ebay today, but the seller did not answer me.

Has the European Ruby the same lamp as the European?

I mean voltage. Here we have 220 V and in the Us 110. Does this matter ?

Thank you

Indieke

I bought this Lamp from Ebay for my UK Ruby and it was fine. Bear in mind that you will need to pay shipping costs (mine to the UK was $80 by FedEx) and customs charges (mine were about £45). Still a lot cheaper than the full Sony module, though.

Has anyone who replaced their lamp only, (not including the heat sink), had a return of the crickets? I am really hoping that the lamp replacement exterminates the noise once and for all.

And, is it safe to say that those who aren't talking about it aren't experiencing the problem? If this IS the case then there is hope for a cure! (or are you all just living with the noise?)

Based on this thread I decided to try to replace the bulb only and save several hundred dollars. by the way, if the listing is gone from ebay, you can get them from "theresafelten@msn.com". I was not sure how much trouble it would be, but in total, there are about 8 additional screws and 3 simple clips difference between replacing the lamp + heatsinks and replacing just the bulb. It took me about 40 minutes, but that was because I kept stopping to take pictures. I will post thes in several posts since there is a 5 picture limit.

Picture 1 is the Vw100 on the ceiling in the bar. The cover slid forward and 1 screw removed so the LMP-400 in it's housing is visible.
Picture 2 is the housing removed. The Gold connectors are the power inputs.
Picture 3 isthe housing with the cover removed exposing the actual LMP-h400
Picture 4 is removing 4 screws to remove the LMP-H400. So far this is the same as the instructions in the manual.
Picture 5 is the housing after removing the lamp assembly.

Picture 1 is a plastic bracket that hold the front and back heat sinks together and isolates positive and negative.
Picture 2 is a view of the back heat sync and has the screw that Sony talks about that can be used to puncture the bulb and release the gas. This is of course unneeded. I did not do it because I kept my old bulb as a spare.
Picture 3 are the clips that must be removed, They hold the tension on the front and back heat sinks. They com off easily with a flat bladed screwdriver and go on easily later.
Picture 4 is with the front heat sink removed. To remove the back half, gentle pressure is applied to pry the heat sync open. The bulb will hen pull out easily.
Picture 5 is the actual 2 bulbs. The one with the very thin layer of heat transfer grease is the old bulb. THe bulbs had very minor cosmetic differences, but seemed the same everywhere it counted. They also appear to be from the same manufacturer. I used an equally thin coating of arctic silver heat transfer grease on the new unit. I would be careful not to apply more than was on the original, since the front and rear of the bulbs are the power contacts.

Assembly is simple as reversing thes steps. My unit powered up as soon as reassembled and did not require recalibration. I was surprised to notice how much brighter my picture had become. After 2350 hours, I guess the bulb had really lost a lot of lumens. Going forward I will probably replace the bulb more often.

Thanks for this effort, kfede1.

I have bought the lamp, but I am really not the handy -man! So thanks to your explanation, we will try this, once it is needed!:)

Hello Kfede1

People will appreciate your instructions.
At 2350 hours I think you hold the record:)

I just purchased a new lamp for my 200 and will definitely try the bulb replacement here soon...

I finally did this home replacement with the bulb approaching 2000 hours. I noticed that the silver reflector on the 2K bulb had become yellowed, I guess this might tilt the color spectrum to the red as the bulb ages.
I bought my ruby with 700 hours and thought the picuture got better even past 1500 hours. The illumination became smoother and the dark detail got better. I generally have the impression that people sell these before they are broken in, maybe takes a couple of thousand hours.
The new bulb as expected has more pop and brighter colors. However, I have always been very pleased with my Ruby sample, the convergence is excellent and the sharpness spot on. It retains the creamier smoothness and dark detail it seemed to get with break in.
I did not find the task of replacing the bulb trivial. Many layers to pay attention to. Also, I took pictures along the way. I noticed I put the bulb/heatsink assembly in too far forward compared to the picture I had taken. I realized that the cooling fins need to be placed with the four adjustment screws as far to the rear as possible from the pictures I took. At first, I placed them as far forward as possible, just the wrong way, so I am glad I took the pictures. I guess the heatsink assembly shouldn't contact or be too close to the plastic case in case of heating/melting.

Taking pictures really does help. I will definitely do the same. And I 100% agree with you. My picQ vastly improved after my 200's lamp got a lot more hours on it. I just put a new one in and I have to say I preferred the color somewhat more when I had the old lamp in. :eek: Of course I know it will get back there again... Just need to watch a lot of movies and TV. Thank God the NFL starts this Sunday! :D

Also, just another thing, it is necessary to be very careful with the hex screws. They are soft and strip easily. I stripped one, but was able to grab the head with a pliers and eventually loosen it. These assemblies weren't designed to be used over, so the screws were very tight on my sample.http://home.earthlink.net/~cjfrbw/96.JPG
http://home.earthlink.net/~cjfrbw/97.JPG
http://home.earthlink.net/~cjfrbw/98.JPG
http://home.earthlink.net/~cjfrbw/99.JPG
http://home.earthlink.net/~cjfrbw/100.JPG
http://home.earthlink.net/~cjfrbw/101.JPG
http://home.earthlink.net/~cjfrbw/102.JPG
http://home.earthlink.net/~cjfrbw/103.JPG
http://home.earthlink.net/~cjfrbw/104.JPG
http://home.earthlink.net/~cjfrbw/105.JPG

Hello Kfede1

People will appreciate your instructions.
At 2350 hours I think you hold the record:)

I'd just reached 2451 hours on my Ruby as the warning message told me to replace the lamp assembly within another 50 hours. I then decided to replace the lamp immediately. My PQ at that stage was still excellent, not dim at all.

I tried to remove the assembly whilst the PJ was still mounted on the ceiling. It got tilted somehow when I removed the 4 screws, and I could not pull out the housing. Even with the entire PJ removed I still cannot take out the lamp assembly - any help would be appreciated. The grey catch does not seem to release - I do not wish to force anything.

BH

It is definitely more challenging with the projector inverted, I had the same trouble. When the case would lock up I would push it back in and re seat it and try again. It eventually let lose after a few tries. Keep trying. It goes back in a lot easier. Good luck.

Alan's right. I just recently replaced the lamp in my 200 and it can be a little challenging getting the gray lever to release. It took a couple attempts to get it to hold in place. I leave mine ceiling mounted while changing though. It is just like working under a car! :D

After 2500 hours finally had to change the bulb. Everything seemed to go ok other than having buy screwdrivers, the first one was too thick to go thru the holes.

At any rate I have changed the bulb, I try the rest,-,-,enter-=not sure if the projector is supposed to come on...it does not. I turn it on with the power button, getting a nice picture however I still get the change lamp powering down in 1 minute message.

What have I missed

Been on the phone with sony 30 minutes, waste of time so far. Thanks for your help

Did you reset the hours in the menu?

I wasn't pushing the buttons quick enough, I was allowing time between each push. At any rate were back in business!

Cool. :cool:

Another lamp successfully changed and counter reset. Had a little problem with the latter but persisted with the standby/reset, <-, ->, enter commands until it worked. :):):) Thanks to you all, I bought just the lamp, (now $300 on ebay), I didn't have to take my own pictures during disassembly because everyone elses were so good, and was careful to avoid mistakes.

And the lamp chatter is GONE, GONE, GONE, well, at least for now. New Edit: believe it or not, the lamp started to 'hum', perhaps sing is a better descriptor, after 18 hours. I enterd the service menu and discovered the lamp temp was over 400 degrees. I turned on the high altitude fan setting and while the fan noise is considerably louder, I haven't had the lamp noise return even after extended on times, (6 hours).

Thanks everybody!

(now $300 on ebay),

Wow that is to good to pass up. Thanks for the heads up. Im going to grab a spare.

On the question of replacment lamps, has anyone used AdvancedLamps.com to purchase, and if so, are you satisfied with their service?

Hi all,

Thanks for a useful and insightful thread.

I live in the UK and would like to purchase a spare bulb. The original eBay sale now appears to have closed.

Can anyone point me in the direction on where to purchase?

Many thanks in advance for anyone able to assist.

I was going to purchase as well and found it had expired. Found the new sale on ebay.
Here. (http://*******/otkf5)

Proceed at your own risk.

Is this a different seller than before then?

Can anyone confirm if this is the required bulb?

Is this a different seller than before then?

Can anyone confirm if this is the required bulb?

It's the same seller that I purchased from. I guess his listing expires per eBay constraints and he just keeps relisting the lamp. Works for the VW100 (ruby). Although I have been told the lamps for the Ruby and VW200 are the same, I cannot personally confirm this as I do not have the VW200.

mark

Mark

How does his auction work. He is listing he has qty with a start price of $300. I of course bid $300. When do you find out if you won. Its not like a normal auction for qty one. Thanks Mark.

Hi Alan,

(I don't think it's a real auction.) Edit: SCRATCH THAT LAST STATEMENT, This is real auction. (He apparently has quantities, (as listed), that he is selling for $300 each and is always relisting the lamp after each aution ends.) Edit: He might have quantities, but I looked up his past sales and many have indeed paid more than the starting price of $300. Please see my caveat third paragraph below.

You did exactly as you were supposed to...bid the $300. You can now do one of two things, either wait for the auction to end, in which case he will send you an invoice, or send him an ebay email now, (Ask the Seller a Question), let him know you are bidding on his item and ask if you can pay before the end of the auction, that is, send you an invoice ahead of time. I waited for the auction to end.

{eBay is kind of strange in that you can put an item up for auction, as he has, simply list an item for sale at a set price, (as I think he should have done), or list it with a Buy It Now price. Considering he has quantities, I don't see the point of auctioning the lamps....just my opinion. there is one caveat: if he gets a run on the things and people start to bid higher, then those with the lowest bids get bumped off the list one at a time as the number of higher bids increase. If this begins to happen, it does bear some watching, that is if you are willing to pay more for the lamp. But if you're not in a hurry, just wait for his next auction. Sooner or latter you'll get one for $300.}

He ships quickly and the lamps are very well protected.

mark

Considering he has quantities, I don't see the point of auctioning the lamps..

That was my thought as well. The rest of your post sums it up very nicely. Ill drop him an email. Thanks Mark.

Ebay call this type of listing a Dutch Auction.

More info here. (http://pages.ebay.com/help/buy/buyer-multiple.html)

My bulbs arrived safely in the United Kingdom.

Great price, reasonable shipping - saved me a lot of money.

I enterd the service menu and discovered the lamp temp was over 400 degrees.
I must be dumb, but I cannot find this lamp temperature information in the Service Menu. And yes, I did check that I entered the Service menu.
I have ROM 01.03/01.02, SC ROM 01.02.
Thanks for a little help.

Hey, sorry for the very slow comeback...but I hope this helps:

enter the service mode
scroll down to Device
scroll down the Device menu to Other and enter
scroll to Item #30 Lamp Temp

turning on the projector, with item 30 onscreen, I can watch the value rise to around 460, (and up).

there are other 'temp' values: #31 temp panel and #32 temp atomos.

Although I have not found these items explained anywhere, it makes sense to me that Lamp Temp is just that. Maybe a tech expert can confirm.

:)

I replaced the bulb and enjoyed that great bright Ruby picture again. At 178 hrs the new bulb wouldn't light at startup. I heard clicking sounds just like a piezo lighter. Many tries later I put the original bulb back in (680 hrs on it and much dimmer than the new) and my Ruby worked again. I received a replacement bulb from the seller and now at 35 hours the powering problem has returned. Now it fires up after random number of tries. Sometimes it works well on the first powering but today i hear only clicks again... Are there anyone with similar experiences with these replacement bulbs? What's the cure for this? I wouldn't want to take my Ruby to a service place with a modified lamp unit...

My lamp temp is around 600 degrees, is that too high? Ruby hasn't warned about high temp though.

Freewheeler,

as I recall, I got the same clicking noise at start up a long time ago and only intermittently, but in my case the proj would start. Subsquently, I sent the proj in under warranty for a convergence problem and Sony El Passo installed a 'hard start' kit upgrade, replaced the LCOS module to improve the convergence, and replaced the bulb.

Sounds like you might not have the hard start modification, and if not, might be able to get Sony to install it free of charge. I do not have Sony's repair # on hand but it might be worth a call to them.....Anybody have it? (if no replies, I can find it tonight and send it to you.)

mark

.... I do not have Sony's repair # on hand but it might be worth a call to them.....Anybody have it? (if no replies, I can find it tonight and send it to you.)

mark

(866) 357-6230 7:00AM - 4:30PM CST

____
Axel

Freewheeler,

as I recall, I got the same clicking noise at start up a long time ago and only intermittently, but in my case the proj would start. Subsquently, I sent the proj in under warranty for a convergence problem and Sony El Passo installed a 'hard start' kit upgrade, replaced the LCOS module to improve the convergence, and replaced the bulb.

Sounds like you might not have the hard start modification, and if not, might be able to get Sony to install it free of charge. I do not have Sony's repair # on hand but it might be worth a call to them.....Anybody have it? (if no replies, I can find it tonight and send it to you.)

mark

Thanks for the answer! I don't have the mod.

Problems: I don't have a valid warranty anymore, I live in Finland and the warranty was only 1 year. I've applied the 3 year Sony Prime Support for my Ruby but I don't know if I will get it afterwards... I've been in contact with the European Sony Prime Support. Anyway, most of the power ups work eventually.

When I first installed my OEM lamp, it went through a short period as you described where it would strike several times and not light. I just shut down the unit and kept turning it on until it struck. After a few cycles of this, it strikes within one to three tries consistently and the problem hasn't returned after a couple hundred hours. I don't believe my unit has the "hard strike" installed.

When I first installed my OEM lamp, it went through a short period as you described where it would strike several times and not light. I just shut down the unit and kept turning it on until it struck. After a few cycles of this, it strikes within one to three tries consistently and the problem hasn't returned after a couple hundred hours. I don't believe my unit has the "hard strike" installed.

My Ruby came back from the Sony Prime Support and it's working flawlessy again. So there is nothing wrong with the replacement lamps, some Rubys just have a weak / defect starter unit. Mine did.

PS. They didn't check the inside of the lamp module :-)

My Ruby came back from the Sony Prime Support and it's working flawlessy again. So there is nothing wrong with the replacement lamps, some Rubys just have a weak / defect starter unit. Mine did.

PS. They didn't check the inside of the lamp module :-)

Great News! So did they install the Hard Start Mod?

Great News! So did they install the Hard Start Mod?

"Unit tested and within convergence 0,7 mm. Hard start mod kit implemented. Firmware upgraded 1.03 -> 1.05 pixelworks 1.02 -> 1.03 Unit cleaned internally best possible. Unit tested OK."

Like a new Ruby again.

The lamps for the VPL-VW100 and VPL-VW200 have suffered a 'starting' price increase by the eBay source xenoarc. Was $300 now $330. Shipping still extra. Anticipate we've seen the last of the $300 lamps.

The ebay reseller don't ship to Canada, someone know a reseller shipping to Canada?

The ebay reseller don't ship to Canada, someone know a reseller shipping to Canada?

Do you know anyone who lives in the US that can relay it for you? I do this all the time for a friend of mine with the same problem.

I'm still waiting for an answer from the reseller. If he don't want to ship to canada as specified in his auction. Then i MAYBE know one person in US who can do it but i'm not sure.

Ok the reseller is shipping to canada so i proceed with the transaction, if everything work out ok i pay less than half the price for a lamp with housing.

At 350 hrs with a new lamp a flock of crickets flew into my home theatre room. There is a high pitched squeaking coming from the rear of the Ruby, sounds just like crickets. I reinstalled the original lamp but the crickets were still there. So I believe it's not a lamp related problem. The cricket sound comes 10 seconds after the lamp has been turned on. Might be a broken ventilator or a broken capacitor too.

I've contacted Sony Prime Support about this. Too many problems with my Ruby recently :(

The cricket issue, is a known issue, and has perhaps to do with dirt. Mine got it after 300 hours and only recently Sony Prime succeeded to get rid of it!

I have put, with the help of a friend a new lamp, and everything is fine. i got a very bright picture now, maybe a bit too much.

I did not suceed to reset the timer. Maybe because it was only on 70 hours, because the Prime, got the carter out.....

My Ruby was at Prime Support some time ago for starting up problems and they also cleaned the machine internally. I'm curious, what did they say that causes the cricket sound excactly?

I have had my Ruby for 3 years now and the bulb just reached 2500 hrs. I tried to reset the lamp timer during the Lakers/Rockets game last night with no success. So I decided to change the bulb this morning. I would like to thank everyone on this forum for your excellent help in helping me put a new bulb in the housing. The hardest part of the job was to resetting the lamp timer. I tried it 3 times with no luck. Let a friend of mine try it and we were good to go.
He just hit the buttons one after the other with no time delay. The PJ was in Standby.

I don't wanna spoil this party, but I made a bulb test. My original bulb has 750 hrs, no "cricket" sound or any other noise. My first replacement bulb has 450 hrs, crickets are very loud and there's also a constant whining sound. My second replacement bulb has 350 hours on it and recently (250 hrs) started to make noise too. No crickets yet, but a constant whining that's quite audible.

So I installed the original bulb again today and there was no extra noise whatsoever. The original bulb is already a bit dim but I'll take silent operation over noisy extra brightness of the replacement units any day.

The replacements look identical to the original Sony lamp. But there is a slight difference maybe in the wattage or voltage handling that makes them chirp after a few hundred hours.

Heat transfer gel applied in all 3 cases.

EDIT: The original bulb has crickets too now...

That's very interesting. I just sent my VW200 into Laredo due to the "cricket" or loud whining. It had already been sent in before. It got pretty loud the last time I had it on so it sounded even worse then the crickets which is what alarmed me. I hope it isn't something like a simple lamp change that would have solved it. It did get gradually worse though. It sounds more like the fan to me. Thanks for your informative post. Maybe if I get it back and it starts up I can try to put in a brand new lamp...

That's very interesting. I just sent my VW200 into Laredo due to the "cricket" or loud whining. It had already been sent in before. It got pretty loud the last time I had it on so it sounded even worse then the crickets which is what alarmed me. I hope it isn't something like a simple lamp change that would have solved it. It did get gradually worse though. It sounds more like the fan to me. Thanks for your informative post. Maybe if I get it back and it starts up I can try to put in a brand new lamp...

The cricket sound comes from the lamp. Sony says that the only fix is to buy a new lamp as the lamp is not under warranty. Too bad those E-bay replacement bulbs make the crickets even louder... I hope someone posts a fix for this problem as I've invested 700 dollars for two lamps that are useless! I could have bought an official Sony replacement lamp unit for that money...:mad:

So if even some of the newer official Sony Lamps are making this noise they must be cutting corners somewhere. I will say mine did sound like crickets at first but the last night I had it on it was a constant more louder noise. Then the next morning while on the phone with them it was a high pitched noise. So hopefully they replace something or just send me a new one. :)

Did any of you with the "cricket sound" had the "Sony Hard Start Mod Kit - Ref: A1206459A" previously installed ?
Or has anybody who has sent his Ruby to Laredo for a cricket sound problem had it returned with this kit installed, in addition to a new lamp ?

The reason I am asking is that I am wondering if there is not some more fundamental lamp supply design issue in the initial shipments of Rubys, which makes them more susceptible to "marginal" lamps, either supplied directly by Sony or by OEMs.
Personally, I have had the "hard start" problem after only 350h with a Sony original lamp, which likely would never had happened had Prime Support recalled all early Rubys to install the kit...

My Ruby was silent before it had the hard start mod at Prime Support. The crickets came soon after that was done. Could the mod be the reason for the cricket sound? Maybe they increased the power to the lamp and that makes the lamps chirp?

Please report if your Ruby had crickets AFTER the hard start mod!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DXLjE-u-A8w

My Ruby is similar.

Mine was similar but the last day or night it expanded to a very high noise that was over powering. It progressively got worse...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DXLjE-u-A8w

My Ruby is similar.I may have a problem with my ears, but I find the sound track of this video less than conclusive : the parasitic noises due to displacement of the video recorder and different capture places are to me greater than the lamp on/off differences.
But you are right, the noise may come from the lamp itself.
Did you get a new one at the same time Sony installed the Hard Start Kit ?

No, they didn't replace the lamp. My Ruby is going to Prime Support again today. I hope they have resolved this cricket problem. I don't believe they will replace the lamp though as it is an accessory and not under warranty.

From Sony Prime Support:

"The GA board has been replaced and the Noise level reduced. Please bear
in mind the VPL-VW100 always makes some noise. The lamp is weak and is
also producing some noise. (The lamp has not been replaced by end-user
recently). The replaced part has nothing to do with lamp or lamp PSU. The lamp is weak and should be replaced by end-user. (advice) This unit presents a operating time of 1560 hours."

My original lamp has 900 hours on it. Sony did not replace the lamp.

I'll receive my Ruby tomorrow, hope the crickets are gone!

My Ruby came home on Thursday. The crickets were still there after Prime Support. That made me very frustrated so I installed my replacement E-Bay bulb again, this time with silver heat compound. Now I've got a silent Ruby again!

I've come to the conclusion that knowing my Ruby is technically faultless after two service trips, the reason for the cricket sound must be the mounting of the bulb into the heatsink. I believe Sony uses wrong kind of thermal paste which stops working (maybe it's not heat resistant enough) after a few hundred hours and the bulb starts to oscillate in high pitch noise.

That silver stuff seems to work. When I turn the Ruby on I hear that annoying whining for a while, it's gone in 5 minutes. After that it stays quiet. The temps stay at about 550. But only time will tell if this is the solution for the cricket sound...

I got my 200 back and luckily they were gone. They did replace a few parts though including putting in a new lamp.

Good for you! It's too bad that Sony Europe doesn't replace the lamps on these units. It's obvious that the lamp is causing the crickets. I'm happy now anyway as that silver thermal compound seems to keep the crickets away :-)

Good thing you found that out. :)

Yes, maybe I should tell that solution to the cricket sound to Sony as well ;-)

Seriously, it couldn't hurt. :)

I bet they lurk here too... But I'll mail Sony Prime Support soon!

Awesome. :)

This was sent to Sony tonight:

Please forward this email to Sony Prime Support, projectors:


I have a fix for the whining sound (cricket sound) that Sony VPL-VW100 and VW200 xenon lamps may develope after a few hundred hours.

I disassembled the lamp housing and heat sink. Then I replaced the white thermal paste on the lamp with silver thermal paste. The previously noisy lamp is now normal and quiet, no need to buy a new lamp.

This is a simple fix, please test it yourself. If it works for you too you can make a lot of Sony high end projector users happy with it!


I'm using this brand heatsink compound: http://www.spirecoolers.com/main/product_detail.asp?ProdID=458


Yours,

Sami Saarinen
Helsinki, Finland

Perfect! :)

This was sent to Sony tonight:

Please forward this email to Sony Prime Support, projectors:


I have a fix for the whining sound (cricket sound) that Sony VPL-VW100 and VW200 xenon lamps may develope after a few hundred hours.

I disassembled the lamp housing and heat sink. Then I replaced the white thermal paste on the lamp with silver thermal paste. The previously noisy lamp is now normal and quiet, no need to buy a new lamp.

This is a simple fix, please test it yourself. If it works for you too you can make a lot of Sony high end projector users happy with it!


I'm using this brand heatsink compound: http://www.spirecoolers.com/main/product_detail.asp?ProdID=458


Yours,

Sami Saarinen
Helsinki, Finland

Yes, if this fixes this issue, WOW, what a find.:D
Why did you even think of trying this to see if it has an effect?

I tried 3 different thermal compounds and this silver one worked. My Ruby has been silent since!

I tried 3 different thermal compounds and this silver one worked. My Ruby has been silent since!

That is awesome!!! :)

I must have disassembled and reassembled the lamp module over 20 times now (I can do it blindfolded;-). I've got 3 bulbs including the original. Recently all 3 chirped, not equally loud but still. I tried to apply more of that white compound and it seemed to work but the crickets came back soon. I even tried to assemble the bulb WITHOUT the grease, huge crickets instantly.

So I figured out it must be the heat compound!

As my VW100 has been to Sony Prime Support twice it is in a top notch condition now. The cricket sound comes from the lamp module if the compound loses its thermal conducting capability and maybe dries a bit too. This silver stuff is more grease like and you can apply a thin and even coat very easily.

I too hope that the solution to the cricket sound was this simple!

I'll report later and please somebody try this silver trick too!

You can bet if I get them again I will definitely try it. I plan to find a place over here where I can order the good stuff. :)

You can bet if I get them again I will definitely try it. I plan to find a place over here where I can order the good stuff. :)

I bought 5 tubes and with Shipping was only $10. (http://www.outletpc.com/c2041.html)

Thanks DR! :) I am on it...

Thanks DR! :) I am on it...

Happy to help out with some Grease ;)

I wonder what is the real lamp temperature when the service menu (#30) says it's 550?

That number can't be fahrenheit let alone celcius! The highest temp of the silver compound is 170°C. I read somewhere that the Xenon lamp temps can reach up to 200°C.

I tried 3 different thermal compounds and this silver one worked. My Ruby has been silent since!

One more question on this. Were some or all the others you tried also silver compounds or some other thermal compounds and this silver just works better?

One more question on this. Were some or all the others you tried also silver compounds or some other thermal compounds and this silver just works better?

No, the two other were white compounds. The silver compound works best.

So silver works on werewolves and crickets? :D

I ordered some to... :)

Hi-yo, Silver, away with the crickets! :D

No, the two other were white compounds. The silver compound works best.

Great, thanks. If you have to pull it again, can you post a picture where you apply the compound.

I hope I'll never have to pull it again ;-)

You apply the compound on areas where the bulb meets the metal housing (heat sink). Only a film thin layer on both ends.

Remember to wipe the old white compound off!