Here is my home theater project i have been working on for some time now this forum has been a great help in deciding on equipment and room treatments

i designed it on my computer in 3d first.
i am doing everything in here my self all electrical drywall and cabinet makeing its a blast...

http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k77/nuczn/columnsblack.jpgcomputer rendering

http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k77/nuczn/theaterchairssideview.jpg

http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k77/nuczn/barviewtheaterchairs.jpg

http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k77/nuczn/front3.jpg
Current progress Dual hsu subs go in those front cabinets

http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k77/nuczn/arches.jpg
i like these

http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k77/nuczn/theaterwetbar.jpg

http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k77/nuczn/bar2.jpg
there usecd to be a fireplace where the wet bar is

http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k77/nuczn/theater-beffore.jpg
this is what the front used to look like the wet bar is where the fireplace is

http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k77/nuczn/stage-sand.jpg
stage filled with sand

http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k77/nuczn/cabinet-build.jpg
Me building one of the cabinets

here is the bar area which used to be a fireplace beffore demo
and then me building the cabinet next to the fridge.

WOW! That is outstanding! You been doing most of the work yourself?

Looks great - nice to see another Red HT

Looks great.

I have a coupld of quick question if you don't mind:

1) Are those just regular free-standing (as opposed to in-wall) left and right front speakers that you are housing in those cabinets at the front of the room? Do you know if housing the speakers in such a manner effects the accoustics?

2) How big is the room?


EDIT: OOPS, never mind about the first question. I see now that you have freestanding L/R main speakers standing up in front of the stage to either side. I didn't see those before - they blend in!!

Hi;

Looks pretty neat. I'd like to know how you did the marble look on the pillars. Did you paint it on, or is there some kind of laminate that's available?

Thanks, Tom.

Here is my home theater project i have been long ast for some time now this forum has been a great help in deciding on equipment and roome treatments

i designed it on my computer in 3d first.
i am doing everything in here my self all electrical drywall and cabinet makeing its a blast...


I hate these talented people......JUST KIDDING

Your work is terrific. Yours and everbody else's is marvelous work. I only hope oneday when I am going to build mine it will look as good as yours.

Great Work!!!

yes there are freestanding left and right speakers (monitor audio rs 6's) dual hsu subs are going in the cabinets in the front. They have a top and two sides and no back 6 inches from wall i hope it sounds ok.

My room is 12 x 17.

As for the marble look on the pillars i am hopeing to take a picture of the slabe marble i am using for the bar area and have a laminate or a graphic made to stick to them. if all else i will paint them to match.

can anyone tell me how to post my pictures directly on the page?

also does anyone have any experience staining cherry?

Thunder.... yes i have done all of the work my self so far except for the panel change to 200 amp service. it is taking a while to complete but im almost done and now this is the fun stuff

Wow! Those renders look great and the real thing is beginning to look just like them. That cherry wood is going to look sweet.

I definitely have to subscribe to your thread.

Ronnie

thanks for the kind words Ronnie

Nice work!!!

What software did you use for your 3d renderings?

Very nice!!! Obvious that you have a wood working talent.

Some advice:

1. Have the center off the floor..you are going to have some serious dialog issues (primary reflection).

2. Consider some acoustical treatments in the room (ceiling and as amny as you can muster on the side walls) to try and tame some brightness of sound).

also does anyone have any experience staining cherry?

Others may have good ideas, but the way I stain cherry has always worked with good results.

Cherry has a natural resin in it that is very counter productive to staining. The resin doesn't absorb the stain very well and it may also be somewhat random throughout the wood. What I mean by that is there is resin in the whole tree but it may be denser if you will in certain parts of the tree so the board that you get (this can be plywood too) may have the resin "sitting around" in different parts of the wood.

Wha that does is cause splotchiness when you stain. Not like the stain being darker in the grain but you will see large spots that are darker than others and what most people end up doing is trying to stain over it to even it out. It never works and usually makes it worse.

Now after that long dissertation(sorry), the thing to do is get some mineral spirits and wipe it on the cherry and let it dry. What this does is raise the resin that's on the surface to the top and evaporate it. In turn it will raise the grain so you can then sand to a smoother finish. I would do this between each successive sanding grit and you will get a smoother finish and eliminate most, if not all of the resin that can cause uneven staining. Then finish with you top coat of choice.

Now if you're going to finish natural, ignore all said above and finish with you top coat.

Good Luck,
Rob

how did you the curves at the top of these recessed areas:

http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k77/nuczn/arches.jpg

It looks like drywall, but i don't know how you would curve drywall without breaking it.

1/4" drywall is flexible and is usually used for curves such as those.

I used 3ds max for design and rendering great program but a bit of a learning curve

center off floor huh.. makes sense just a little stand or what do ya think?

as far as acoustical treatments, any advice would be great. i was thinking i would put some in the curved arches and thats about all i thought of so far this is all new to me.

and as for the arches being curved i used 1/2 drywall i got it wet or damp actually and slowly bend it in. then i used flexable corner bead worked well.
http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k77/nuczn/arches-build.jpg
here is how i framed them

Wow! Very nice work!

http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k77/nuczn/spacer.jpg
my lutron spacer system came in finally!!!! i had ordered it months ago in black but it came in white.. there will be 7 zones with 2 master controls.

anyone know if there is a way to us the rf blasters of the mx 3000 with lutron spacer master control

wow, could Lutron have used a bigger box? :eek:

Ronnie

Nice job on the theater so far. It's going to look great. I'll be watching your build :)

http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k77/nuczn/mx3000.jpg
YAY i got my remote today!!!!!!!!! i waited all day for it then i had to leave for an appointment left note for ups to leave it without signature. as he was writing on my note that he couldnt leave it my dad pulled up and signed for it ALL RIGHT!!!

mx 3000 remote now to get it running with some cool animations

hey nuczn,

What is the dimension of your home theater?

BTW, your home theater is a real piece art!!! ;) Great gifted hands!!!

v1rtu0s1ty, thank you for the compliment!!

well my theater is 12x17 basicly

Theater looks sweet! I am building a similar stage in my HT. What wood did you use for the top of the stage (doesn't look like plywood)? Did you cut the curve with a jigsaw and then use a router to get the rounded edge? Keep the pictures coming!

v1rtu0s1ty, thank you for the compliment!!

well my theater is 12x17 basicly

What screen width or diagonal are you planning to implement with that room dimension?

the stage top is mdf. yep exactly i used string and a nail to get the radius i wanted then i used a jig saw to cut it out. And a 1/2 inch round over bit on my router for the rounded edge on bolth sides. doesnt have to be perfect cause it going to be carpeted. For the front curve i used 3 pieces of 1/4 inch tempered hard board from HD laminated together worked great.

and actually to make the radius figure out how far out you want you want it to protrude.

Then how wide you want it.

line up anothe piece of same thickness material behind the sheet you are going to make the top out of and draw a center line down the middle of bolth sheets then a couple short 2 inch lines on either side of the line a couple inches away so you can make sure everything is straight

Then find where the nail works to hit those points its going to be a ways back on the other piece on the centerline.

then decide how nuch overhang you would like (takeing in account for material thickness on the curve) using the same nail position from first curv draw a second one. this will act as your reference when cutting the 2x? for the frame and thats prety much it

my screen is a stewart firehawk 92in screen

http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k77/nuczn/cabinet-edge.jpg
here is the edge detail i decided to go with

http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k77/nuczn/speakers-in-box.jpg
this week has been christmas new monitor audio speakes came in today also
rs 6, rslcr center, rs1 rears and rsfx still on order all in walnut. they will go nice with the colors im going with im giddy!!!

http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k77/nuczn/speakers-out.jpg

didnt get a whole lot done today with new speakers to play with. but got some stuff figured out
http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k77/nuczn/cherry-stain-test.jpg
my final stain color choice looks really nice with the speakers im excited to get everything stained

http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k77/nuczn/GARAGE.jpg
finally cleaned my garage if you look at the picture of me building a cabinet you can see how messy it was..... now i have a shop ABOUT TIME!!

http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k77/nuczn/GARAGE.jpg
I see you have a ShopSmith. My Dad just bought one of those and we both went to training a few weeks ago. What a powerful tool. Since my Dad lives locally, I can use it any time I want :) Looks like you have the older 500 model. There was a guy in the class that picked one up for a song off Craigslist. I would consider getting one myself but just don't have the room right now.

BTW -- theater looks great and love the look of your Monitor Audio speakers. I like that stain color too.

Well now that the equyipment is showing up, guess progress will slow as you start pplaying with your new toys :) Very nice so far.

They have a top and two sides and no back 6 inches from wall i hope it sounds ok.

No, they will not work well like that and to do so would require some serious treatments and EQ. As The Bland said, that center channel needs to get off the floor.

Dennis would you mind elaborating a bit more on why or how i could make it better
if you look at the last picture on page 1 you can see exactly how those cabinets will look with no botom or back. It will get a door.

So if you have any advice i would love to listen to your expertise. Would one sub be better? what can i do to make those areas sound well

hey swithey- thanks
yeah it is a shop smith. i think its deffinatly pretty old but what a tool it cuts so well!.. i picked it up about a year ago for like 700 bucks and basicly just wanted it for the laith. I figured that thing is so old how good could it be... well i havent used my other tablesaw again since.. its a great tool to have in a shop

and Marjen....
now that the equipment is showing up i want it done even more so im puttin the pedal to the metal lol!!

You cannot have your L/R speakers sitting that close to an untreated boundary and maintain any resemblance to good sound...generally, you need 3.5' or more.

Two subs are always better than one; however, you cannot be putting the subs (a) into the corners and (b) into cabinets like that. The cabinets will have to be completely filled with fiberglass between the cabinet and the speaker to avoid resonances and any hollow space beneath the cabinet is going to create resonances as well.

could i raise the speaker up just below the screen? will it make a difference to angle it up slightly towards the seating area.

I know how to build stuff but sound is something im learning about so please give all the advice reguarding anything you guys can, speaker loaction/ placement, and acoustical treatments...
my theater is not done yet and this is the time to change things thats why im here

im not an audiophile quite yet but i do know you guys who are know your stuff so please help but be specific if you can

where is a more optimal location for the subs? i am not opposed to moving them but the cabinets are my first choice even if it will sacrifice a little sound quality. the room is not as big as i would like. my unexperienced ears will proabably think it sounds great but then again i dont want it to sound like crap either. ;-)

Get the center up as high as you can. Leave the space open as much as possible and face flush to it with rigid fiberglass. Use a cloth covering as opposed to the wood.

You really want the front wall to be nothing much more than a stick frame to avoid the resonances Dennis is speaking of. Any time you put a speaker into a wall or cabinet that wasn't designed to be used that way, you'll seriously impact the frequency response.

Bryan

any recent work?

Hey B! Had to take a another look at the great work you have done. I cant wait to see more. Keep taking lots of pictures.

been out of town prety much every weekend so i havent done much. I have stained the cabinets after much deliberation on what the final color i like is. Still need to poly them and i have made one cabinet door really excited with how it turned out. Picked up a planer and the bits to make the door joints corectly made life really eaiser. I will post my pics when i get home im out of town right now.

ok i have finally gotten back to my project, well posting pics anyway. I was doing a lot of stuff that was not exciting. Mostly drywal mud and tape (not worth the time it took me deffinatly hire someone) but the arches were tough and they turned out real nice. I patched the few holes i cut wrong for my cans and preped the ceiling for primer
http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k77/nuczn/ceiling-primed.jpg
ceiling primed awaiting wallpaper. I just thought of using wallpaper last night so ceiling was originally going to be black thats why the grey primer on first here
http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k77/nuczn/cabinet-door.jpg
here is my first attempt at a door. (it is wet from wiping off the glue)
http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k77/nuczn/cabinets-stained.jpg
these are a few of the cabinets just stained(hence the streaky areas) awaiting poly
http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k77/nuczn/ceiling-wallpaper.jpg
wallpaper for ceiling choice. I wanted a tin ceiling feel.
http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k77/nuczn/ceiling-paper-first-sheet.jpg
first piece of 18' long strips of wallpaper. This was so tough to get up and inline with my laser line. It was so long that it kept falling down beffore i could get it up there then i learned the sec ret of how to get them up there
http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k77/nuczn/ceiling-all-paper.jpg
all the paper in place 4 hours and a soar neck later. I will paint this black tomorrow.

I had to get the ceiling ready first beffore i finish the soffit because i wont be able to paint above where the rope lighting is going

ceiling painted and turned out really nice pics tonight

http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k77/nuczn/black-ceiling.jpg
black ceiling oooo im glad i went with the wall paper it really adds alot to what im going for now that spun off more detail ideas YAY GETTING CLOSER

Wow ....looks great so far. I can't wait to see more.

Ceiling looks awesome. Is the wallpaper that you used designed to be painted over? Where did you get it?

Love that Painted wallpaper....Excellent Idea! Nice interesting texture yet invisible when the lights are out.

Flan

I love your ceiling too. What brand is that paper?

the wallpaper is architectural inspirations it says paintable vinyl wallcovering. Its like 12 bucks a roll at lowes and it looks great

Thanks for the info. I'll look for it at Lowes.

Great job on the ceiling, I really like the effect the wall paper gives to it. How high are your ceilings?

Great looking ceiling!

but

is it a good choise for acoustics to have a reflective ceiling?

i hope so but im not concerned. I was going to paint all the sheetrock in my room as well but now i am going to treat the entire room

We have a similar paper on our kitchen ceiling and it is not reflective. I also planned to use it on the theater ceiling. Huge detail bang for the buck!

I recently bought a projector from Jammer and he used the Architectural Inspirations wall paper on his theater room and with the uplighting in the soffits, had to be the most impressive ceiling I have ever seen in a home theater.

I made my own center speaker stand, and I'm sure you could easily improve upon the design:

http://uk.geocities.com/g.lightfoot@btinternet.com/scans/ht/centrestand.jpg

The spikes allow for front/rear height adjustment so that you can angle it up towards the listening position. The height is adjustable too so I can get it just under the screen. I have the entire speaker and stand covered in black felt speaker cloth which is accoustically transparent and you can't see any shiny edges which may distract.

Gary

I made my own center speaker stand, and I'm sure you could easily improve upon the design:

http://uk.geocities.com/g.lightfoot@btinternet.com/scans/ht/centrestand.jpg

The spikes allow for front/rear height adjustment so that you can angle it up towards the listening position. The height is adjustable too so I can get it just under the screen. I have the entire speaker and stand covered in black felt speaker cloth which is accoustically transparent and you can't see any shiny edges which may distract.

Gary

Gary,

Looks like the link is not working .

Bob

thanks for the comments guys

Gary nicly done thanks for that!!

Well the last few days have been spent looking through sandmans, Buds(Blazing ridge cinema) and mr poindexters theaters and several others that were awesome builds to get some good info on how to do acoustic panels with fabric.. Unfortunatly i wish i would have done all this research and found AVS to be such a great help beffore i designed my HT. Now i am a bit stuck since i dont want to completly backtrack weeks of time to change my whole stage and soffit and cabinets to make room for 1" panels. basicly everything was not figured for treatments so i cant do the whole room.

What if i do 2 large panels like these with sconses on them with treatments
http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k77/nuczn/sconse-ps.jpg
and do the under side of my screen soffit as well atleast its somthing

I think you are really doing great work on this theater. As for acoustics, I'm no expert but treating the first reflection points with rigid fiberglass panels would probably be a good and somewhat easy modification to make. I would definitely not backtrack to much at all with what you have done, but you do need to address some of the issues like speakers being in cabinets. This will greatly affect the performance and you wont get your money's worth in terms of the speakers you bought.

Keep up the great work. This theater really caught my eye.

here is a sample render with a bit more detail(im on my other computer all my textures are missing but you get the jist
http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k77/nuczn/sconsesrender.jpg

thanks alot Alex

where would the first reflection points be sorry for the dumb question but i still have a lot to learn.

My next HT will be oooohh so much better the next go round... But for now football and hockey season is here and i need to "get'er done" i will be pleased as can be regardless i think it will sound a heck of alot better that my inexpensive surround system i have now in the livingroom with hardwood floors.... and no sub

my subs are really the only speakers in the cabinets i wish i had a better place for them but im kinda stuck. i am going to use grill cloth on the doors of the cabinets vs wood , plus they dont have a back or bottom. The cabinets are also 6" from the wall so the sub is not completly surrounded by solid surface. I understand this is by no means a great idea but its gotta work and from what im used to it will be awesome. All 7 other speakers will be unobstructed

Sounds good. My original post doesn't make much sense grammatically but hopefully you got the point. (Just read over it. Doh!)

First reflection points can be found by using a mirror and having one person hold it up against the wall and one person "sitting" at the sweet spot of the theater. Once the person sitting can see the speakers then the approximate location of the first reflection point has been found. Do this for both walls.

Another thing you might want to look into is corner bass traps. These use rigid fiberglass and go up against two walls in the corner of the rooms. Again, they aren't that hard to install in the back of the room. Ideally you would want some trapping happening in the front of the room but if you can't fit it in dont worry about it.

Do some searches for bass traps and frames for rigid fierglass on the forum. It shouldn't be any problem for you to install them based on what you have done so far.

thanks again alex. just got home from being out of town again man puts a kink in my theater progress no new updates yet

here are some updated renders
THANK YOU REAPER AND MR POINDEXTER for the carpet texture map

please give any feedback on weather you think its to busy for my small room

http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k77/nuczn/carpettest3.jpg

http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k77/nuczn/carpettest4.jpg

http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k77/nuczn/carpettestavclosetcopy.jpg

http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k77/nuczn/carpettesttopview.jpg

Also got can lights installed in sofit above stage look great no pics yet too tired and the rope lighting backer piece installed that will go behind the lights above the soffit. It mirrors the shape of the soffit and is set back about 6 inches so you cant see the frameing when you stand up. i have really been trying to work through my decisions on the computer so not a whole lot of progress HMMMPF..... but i will be glad in the long run

I love everything except the marble. I think it would look better all done in wood. Just my thoughts, but its looking great.

By the time you get some furniture in there, the carpet will be fine.

I'd agree with Doc that on the front columns, my preference would be wood. Or, if you're wanting to keep the stone look, maybe consider something like black granite to keep things darker up front.

Bryan

Carpet doesn't look too busy at all. Looks great.

The stone will reflect the light bouncing off the screen and serve as a distraction.

Great renders!

I don't like the columns either. It looks out of place.

How about removing the column closest to the screen and placing your front speakers there? The outer column could stay but I'd like it in black.

That's exactly what I was thinking.

ok ill do some renders like the ones you suggested and see what you guys think. thanks for the great feedback.

I vote for stained wood or black-ish columns also.

I love the carpet in that room. I agree with the others. The columns are out of place in respect to the rest of the interior.

ok here are the renders with the suggestions you guys made tell me what you think
http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k77/nuczn/columnswood.jpg
same brownish marble for bar

http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k77/nuczn/columnswoodblackgranite.jpg
black honed granite for bar

http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k77/nuczn/columnsblack.jpg
black honed granite all around

http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k77/nuczn/columnsspeakers.jpg

i think the speakers in place of the columns looks a little bare with only one column on each side what do you think?

ill be gone all weekend again so no work for 4 days man im bummed. i want to go cause its going to be fun but id like to get a big chunk done... oh well..
thanks again guys for your input

black granite is just so hard to keep clean.. but if the other stuff looks out of place ill do honed not polished to help with reflection of light and keeping clean. Im do stone for a living so this part i can do for next to nothing.

I think the single columns look fine. Much better speaker placement.

I like the single column design the best myself and think the reflections coming from the screen will be much reduced without a shiny surface so close. Are you considering keeping the carpet based on comments here?

Can we see single columns with black marble? Perhaps not plain black but with some texture of a sort?

yeah i think i will go with that carpet i think it does look nice and will look great with the ceiling texture. I just think the single column strikes me a a little strange ill model my speakers exactly and throw them inthere to see what it looks like

the subs are in those cabinets do you think they will shake the heck out of the speakers on top?

comin right up reaper

http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k77/nuczn/columnsblacktextured.jpg

here ya go

I'm no interior designer for sure but...

Me likes :)

http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k77/nuczn/cabdesign.jpg
this is how the cabinets are designed there is a good space between wall and cab its only attached to stage and wall. Sub does not touch it. Curtains are just for looks they wont open

Beautiful! The rendering is way cool!
The screen looks bigger than 92" diagonal.
What are you doing for seating?

well seating is going to be a problem. As you can see from the over head shot i have doors on the one side and av closet. so my room is like 11.5 on that side 3 theater recliners are going to be really tight so i am thinking of doing a nice leather sectional with a recliner i think thats all i can do unless you guys can think of some alternatives. I will model some ideas when i gat back in town and see what works

I definitely like the single column better. Black or wood look great. -- can't make a decision. However, putting the speakers up there may put them too high. bpape/Bryan has told me you want to center the tweets on the center of the screen. You get closer to that when they are sitting on the floor.

And one other thing to consider.. the wet bar area you have over on the side is a 1st reflection spot (the place the sound hit's 1st before it reaches the seating). All that hard surface in the bar area will be highly reflective and an absorbtion material is better. Yes, I know, it does not look as good -- and I completely agree. If you did black marble/granite, you could just put a black panel (full width of the bar) from the top of the counter to the bottom of the 1st shelf. The rest of the shelves could have marble/granite between them.

I had to find compromises in my room too (WAF and acoustical -- really difficult) ;)

I like the single column too. Do you have room to center it more or perhaps make it wider? Did you try a fluted, perhaps Corinthian style?
No bad choices here. Your theater will rock. My space is similar in size and no, I don't think yours looks too busy.

Thanks steve ill consider that. i was thinking myself the speakers may be too high. but we will see that my least favorite one but maybe im not looking at it right

well im off for the weekend fellas. Please feel free to give any comments many eyes are better than just my 2. Thanks for all the great words. HAVE A FANTASTIC WEEKEND

Brandon

Great job! You my friend can have a second business (or first)!

Mike

ok this is rediculas im camping and i have internet connection WTF lol.

back hope everyone had a great weekend wow we had fun

I also like single column better - can't decide between the black marble or wood. Are the speakers to scale? If yes then I think based on my understanding that as Steve mentioned they may not be in the optimal position.

Your rendering skills are awesome - you could get some HT $'s for that service.

Cheers,
Mark

PS - goet of the Internet and spend some quality time with the family!

Ok so the one column is growin on me. Am i going to have any problems with sound or vibrations from sitting on those sub cabinets?

http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k77/nuczn/black-ceiling.jpg
black ceiling oooo im glad i went with the wall paper it really adds alot to what im going for now that spun off more detail ideas YAY GETTING CLOSER

I really, really like the ceiling that you did. It's different and has a unique style all its own.

Would you be willing to take a couple different pics from different angles so I can see some better shots of the whole ceiling or at least with different lighting? I'm curious if it looks as real as I'm hoping it does!

I keep teetering back and forth between something like what you've done versus doing a black textured ceiling.

Thanks!
Brian

busy going over my decisions and playing with the room in 3d i just want to get my last munite changes fleshed out so i dont have to back track
here is what im thinking for seating 2 rows of 3 acoustic innovations deco theater chairs
http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k77/nuczn/theaterchairssideview.jpg

http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k77/nuczn/barviewtheaterchairs.jpg
and i picked out my granite today im deffinatly going black its got a really cool texture to it not shiny at all

http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k77/nuczn/theaterseats.jpg

Hi Nuczn,
Are your CAD drawings to scale? What I'm thinking is: it would appear that your chairs are close together, so the back row does not look like it could recline...
In any case, this looks amazing! I just posted pictures and progress of my own
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=8367676#post8367676
so I know how much work this is...by the way, you gave me the idea to get an MX-3000. I saw it in your thread so I got one too, plus the base...so, thanks!

One more note: I doubt you could hear the difference whether you mounted speakers on the floor or up next to the columns...so do whatever you think looks best!

Love the render with one column, speakers on top and dark texture to the single column. THis makes the room! The speaker on the floor always looked like an after thought to me--like you made the room and forgot to have a place for the speakers.

Love it!

Hey thank you guys. i think it will work out with the speakers

Dennis had this to say

1. The tweeters of the L/R/C should be on the horizontal centerline of the screen.
2. The tweeter of the center channel should not be more than 2' higher or lower than the height of the tweeters for the L/R channels.
3. The speakers should be line of sight from each seating location.
4. If the L/R speakers are within 3.5 feet of a boundary (wall, cabinet, etc), then those boundary surfaces should be treated with 1.5" of absorption.

i will do 2 columns and if the speakers sound better on the floor at that point i can add the other 2 easy enough.

Ripmaster
yeah its to scale. the chairs are deffinatly close to the other ones but it puts the front row up a bit so guess people better get there early and try to nab a seat in the front row ;-P.. but really i put a sectional in there and it didnt look right chairs are really the way to go and just one row looks silly. So once i get everything done and chairs in there i can play with them a bit at least they fit width wise. There is still ample room for walking to the AV closet. Now i really need to figure out a way to build a riser. alas i now might have to move my speaker wire J-Box if id put the speakers up! Grrrr..

You will love that remote its easy to program once you figure out how the programming aplication works. It can do anything i love being able to design your own interface and button placement.

Oh btw im getting a new puppy tomorrow a female Vizsla oh man here comes trouble.. This is my second one im excited.

I think you'll find that the speakers sound great on top. And it looks much, much better.

Hey nuczn,
I just finished building a two step riser...it's hard to see in my pics, but it came very nice.
Basically, I used 2 x 6 for the bottom layer and 2 x 4 for the top layer, or second step. Then I used plywood to finish it on the surfaces...I took lots of pictures of its construction, but I'm leaving for Walt Disney World for a week with the family in the morning. I can send these to you when I return; it's heavy as a mofo but very solid! I used the riser calculator in these forums and with my room dimensions the height came absolutely perfect. The carpeting guys finished it off...

Back to the chairs, - it's too funny that you made the joke about getting there early to nab the good seats; my wife says that all the time! But what I meant about the spacing was, will the rear row recline with enough room for the bottom to kick out towards the front row?

Anyhow, keep up the great work, it's going to be a showpiece for sure!

i dont think they will the way they are in the pictures there. but i will make them work the front row is still 10 feet away from the screen so i have a little room to play

It`s probably late in this thread but I think a Lutron grafik eye might of been easier to control than a seven zone spacer system. When I use a spacer system I place an emitter on the inside of the box where the 5 button scene controller is (it can be extended using cat5 and some dolphins) then connect it to my ir repeater or control system.. ( the scene controller must be mounted n it`s own box I found it out the hard way.

I love the design Gives me hope for my room which will be one foot bigger in each direction. Great speaker choice they sound really good. Where are the surrounds going? If you use the SFX they should be aligned with the center of the speaker at your ear. you need to sit in the null of the speaker for dipoles to work properly and in a small room where the speakers will be close to you they will work well. Also for two sub system place one halfway in front and halfway on a side wall this will give you a good place to start. When you are done find someone to come over and calibrate your proj and audio system. It`s not that much $ considering what you already spent and will make a big difference. good luck.

I haven't seen an update in a while nuczn, - how are things going? Built that riser yet?

Havent touched my theater in a while sorry for no updates but people haver been asking me about the wall paper so here is a basic idea of what to do its worth the nack pain

Well you want your ceiling as flat as you can cause imperfections may telegraph to paper but it does hide a bit. Umm ok putting it up is a pain in the neck truely. i did mine going the long way because i wanted the least amount of seams. i started with a center line on the ceiling, i used a laser line, found the center of the room and went from there. My lights are centered on the room so i wanted everything to line up perfect.

Roll out your first strip on the floor and then roll it back up and then you put the rolled up section in the water pan you get at the store. the trick is after you get it all wet to fold it over on it self into the middle. So basicly you take each end and bring it to the middle so its sitting glue on glue. Then its more manage able, then you kind of roll up the end your not using and start at one end of the room its a pain in the butt and messy deffinatly dont plan on not making a mess. you absolutly have to fold the ends of the paper on them selves or its to hard i learned the hard way. my ceiling took me 4 hours 12 x 18 so take that into consideration you really cant stop in the middle.

After each piece is up then you use a squeege to flaten out paper and remove air bubbles and get it exactly where you want it. When you start your next piece if you have a pattern like i did you need to start right where the pattern needs to line up cause once its up it really doesnt want to move alot back and forth to line up so gotta get it right from the beggining. Its gonna take patience and a soar neck and back but its worth it.

Hi nuczn,

By the way, I just finished programming my MX-3000 (with the MRF-250 base), including complex macros.

PM me if you have any questions about it.

Ripmaster

ok back to business needed to get back on the horse on my theater ill have pics commin later today if i can find my camera!

ok i spent the whole day tweaking my rope lighting above my floating soffit. I had a lot of trouble getting the light to look right.
http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k77/nuczn/full-lam.jpg
this is the fleshed out soffit i laminated 3 pieces or 1/4 masonite in in order to get a 3/4 inch curved board. im then going to veneer it with cherry

http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k77/nuczn/laminate.jpg
close up of laminate. i took bondo and spread it over the boards then sanded it so it was a nice smooth surface for the veneer

http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k77/nuczn/laminate-good.jpg
larger shot

http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k77/nuczn/lit-up.jpg
all lit up

http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k77/nuczn/difuse.jpg
this is a diffuser test PLEASE give me input of what you think!!!!
the diffused is on the right and nothing on the left which do you like better?

I like the diffused one on the right. Awesome theater thread, by the way!

Thanks MrWrite!

Ok i decided to go with the diffuse one.
this soffit and rope light has been a major obsticle for this project because all finish work is done after it and with it. Thats why i took so long to get going again cause id come in and look at it and get discouraged cause i couldnt get the rope light to look right. But finally i finished it!!!!!

here is what i did, the rope light was reflecting off the celling and the joists. I needed to cut back the joists so i could create a nice space for the light to illuminate. then i need to diffuse the light so it looked more even because the rope light was so close it was giving irregularities to the illumination.
http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k77/nuczn/plexi-1.jpg
using some cheap light panels from home depot, I figured out the curve i would need then cut it with a dremel.


http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k77/nuczn/plexi-2.jpg
then i placed it up above the soffit and traced the actual curve and again cut it with a dremel


http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k77/nuczn/plexi-3.jpg
here you can see how the plexi sits up on the joists, and where i cut them back to create a better illumination area. i also needed to paint all the boards black because i was getting wierd reflections from the brown of the wood.


http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k77/nuczn/lit-up-2.jpg
nice soft light above soffit with no strange reflections

http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k77/nuczn/plexi-4.jpg
insulated and sheetrocked. the underside will get painted with flat black paint and the front 3/4 facia gets cherry veneer!!

finally i can move on!!!!!!!

spent the night drywall mudding rest of the room which i have also been putting off. few last touches and time for primer i see the end woah!!!!

Your theater is looking great. Please keep the updates coming. Your craftsmanship and attention to detail is amazing! Are you a carpenter by trade?? Anyhow...congrats on the amazing room. Can't wait to see how it turns out.

Paul

Thanks very much Flux--

Nope im a Stone mason by trade but i love buildin stuff and learning new things. This has been alot of fun and cant wait to get it done and move on to the next room in my house.

The diffused light above your soffit is awesome! I started following your thread when you started, and I was dissappointed when there weren't any updates for a while.

Nice to see you back in action! Keep up the great work and keep the updates flowin'. :D

muds mot quite dry on the fresh tape i put on but put a coat of dry wall primer on half of the theater where the arches are. After that dries im gonna skim coat with dry wall mud to smooth out all imperfections then final primer coat then...ooooo could it be sat it aint so... PAINT!!!!!!! first coat then i can start my finish trim work and install cabinets

well continued muddin im being way to pickey but hey its lookin sweet.. now im just wireing in my sconces which is a pain in the but cause in in the attic. The roof hips back right where i need to get my drill in.. to bad i didnt wire these beffore sheetrock. I have 4 batteries for my dewalt drill and all are dead so break time. pictures when theres somethin cool to see

so i ended up puttin a hole in the sheet rock to get my drill in there. I drilled up from the room into the attic. Great idea in therory, last post i said i couldnt get my drill in there from the attic cause of the roof, yeah well i drilled right through it from the bottom. OOps now i have a hole in my roof i need to fix.

major job gettin those lights wired but another thing off my punch list. I also wired for the ir blasters that will control the Lutron spacer system lighting and added another master control to the garage door entrance.

Final skim coat over primed area of theater complete
electrical complete

now just still finishing up mud work on the last few areas.

I dont know how some of you guys can mud and tape then paint in a weekend cause this is a seriously long process. My room is complicated to mud but i have spent countless hours just mudding. you will never see my seams though muuuwaahahah.... ok back to work

major job gettin those lights wired but another thing off my punch list. I also wired for the ir blasters that will control the Lutron spacer system lighting and added another master control to the garage door entrance.


nuczn,

how did you wire your IR blaster to control the Spacer system? The only way I can think to do it is to pull a cat5 wire into the box with the master controller and wire it back to the IR control box. I think this would be against code. I have 3 zones and a master controller in the same 4 gang box. Thanks for any insight.

By the way your theater is really looking good!

Judson

Judson the "ir blaster i wired for comes with specific lutron spacer master controlers and only require a 14-2 wire from the master controller box to each blaster. It adds an additional 5 zones to the system for a total of 10. In this application the master controller needs to be in its own box. I then can control them via RF with the help of a different kind of IR blaster which gets us back to i think what you are refering to.

i found this online by Jay Mitchosky on the Home theater forum

Ok so here is the deal if you want to control your master controller via RF

The inside of a Lutron Spacer wall mounted Remote Control Master. This is what you see when you remove the front panel. The little black square in the bottom quarter (labelled component U5) is the IR sensor. It receives IR signals from the transparent window on the fourth scene button. Because of its poor reception I have added a dual head IR emitter that is connected via extension cable to a Home Theater Master MRF-300 radio frequency base station. Because of the location of the Spacer sensor you cannot simply attach an emitter to the back. Even though the case is clear it is obscured by a couple of circuit boards. Attaching to the sides will not work as the gang box allows little room between. Only option is to place the emitter(s) inside. It's a simple matter of loosening a couple of screws. I happened to have some dual-head emitters kicking around so I'm able to flank the sensor.
http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k77/nuczn/main.jpg

there is no need for cat 5 wire at all you wire these http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k77/nuczn/8174.gif directly from you ir emitter box directly into the junction box.

if your talkin straight IR there is no need to do anything its already built in to the Spacer system

ok here is another alternative as well if your just using IR and stuf is out of sight line. i was originally going to do this, even wired for it but went RF(you never have to point it at anything)

http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k77/nuczn/8132big.jpg
this is an ir reciever that goes in a J box wired from ir block with phone wire.

heres a diagramhttp://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k77/nuczn/8132side2big.gif

just another option hope all of this helps

well with slow progress on my dry wall mudding this week so far i thought id add some pics of my build to this point i never showed for anyone interested.


the very beginning
http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k77/nuczn/theater-beffore.jpg
had to remove fire place what a job

http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k77/nuczn/IMG_1469.jpg
made a new door into room from living room

http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k77/nuczn/IMG_1471.jpg
my friend Kenny tearing out brick

http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k77/nuczn/IMG_1472.jpg
Kenny again tearing out dry wall

http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k77/nuczn/IMG_0121.jpg
Removed the window and old door and framed them in

http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k77/nuczn/IMG_0122.jpg
fireplace gone and framed in 4000 lbs of stone and concrete removed and hauled to dump


http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k77/nuczn/IMG_0124.jpg

http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k77/nuczn/IMG_0125.jpg

http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k77/nuczn/IMG_0180_1.jpg
building arch

http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k77/nuczn/IMG_0183.jpg

http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k77/nuczn/IMG_0184.jpg

http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k77/nuczn/IMG_0236.jpg

http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k77/nuczn/IMG_0241_1.jpg

http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k77/nuczn/IMG_0243.jpg
Created av closet and framed in rack access window

http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k77/nuczn/IMG_0246_1.jpg
Insulation and sound board(beffore i say this web site and knew about green glue and the like But live and learn

http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k77/nuczn/IMG_0260_1.jpg

http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k77/nuczn/IMG_0261.jpg

http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k77/nuczn/IMG_0262.jpg
no those wires are not done Lol what a mess

http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k77/nuczn/IMG_0263.jpg

http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k77/nuczn/IMG_0264_1.jpg

http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k77/nuczn/IMG_0266_1.jpg

http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k77/nuczn/IMG_0270.jpg

http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k77/nuczn/IMG_0271.jpg

http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k77/nuczn/IMG_0272.jpg

http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k77/nuczn/IMG_0273.jpg

http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k77/nuczn/IMG_0274.jpg

http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k77/nuczn/IMG_0275_1.jpg

http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k77/nuczn/IMG_0279.jpg

http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k77/nuczn/IMG_1869.jpg
Removed carpet and subfloor exposed 2 inch car decking this house is bult like a tank!

http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k77/nuczn/IMG_1870.jpg
Filled old fireplace brick with concrete fluch with car decking

http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k77/nuczn/IMG_1871.jpg

http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k77/nuczn/IMG_1873.jpg
installed new sub floor glued subfloor down (heres where i wish i knew about green glue as well)

http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k77/nuczn/IMG_1874.jpg
test fitting fridge

http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k77/nuczn/IMG_1877.jpg
first stage step filed with sand

http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k77/nuczn/IMG_1882.jpg

http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k77/nuczn/IMG_1901.jpg
Second riser being built. again here i laminated 3 pieces of masonite for the radius

http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k77/nuczn/IMG_1903.jpg
Stage complete

http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k77/nuczn/IMG_1910.jpg
cabinet face frame

http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k77/nuczn/IMG_1912.jpg
me workin on one of the cabinets

http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k77/nuczn/IMG_1915.jpg
finished box

http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k77/nuczn/IMG_1917.jpg
shelves glued and clamped

http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k77/nuczn/IMG_1921.jpg
test fit of cabinet and fridge

http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k77/nuczn/IMG_1923.jpg

http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k77/nuczn/IMG_1938.jpg
finished stage sub cabinet

and here we are up to ceiling wall paper from previous posts

I just want to THANK YOU for A) posting this and B) posting the recap pics. I am fairly certain (subject to wife's opinion) that I am going to incorporate your arched bump out sto facilitate my side and rear surround speakers.

I have to break up this wall...

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d133/montanabargains/th_S5300170.jpg (http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d133/montanabargains/S5300170.jpg)
http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d133/montanabargains/th_S5300228.jpg (http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d133/montanabargains/S5300228.jpg)


Doug

Your very welcome good luck with the Wifey! ;-P

ok finishing mud work turned out very nice, got carpet samples and a couple quarts of paint to find the right red. Pics tomorrow my camera broke, i should say the puppy ate it doh!!!

i just have to say to anyone considering doing there own mudding work, seriously think about it.. it have spent DAYS on this. My theater has a lot of complicated areas and corners but still. I am a perfectionist so i guess i wanted to make sure it got done right but it wasnt worth my time. Hire a professional who is really good. Although it turned out as good as i hoped i wont do mud again, like i said its not worth my time, it has been the most labor intensive part of the build

http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k77/nuczn/IMG_1629.jpg

http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k77/nuczn/IMG_1632.jpg

http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k77/nuczn/IMG_1631.jpg

http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k77/nuczn/IMG_1633.jpg

Got first 2 coats on, except i now have to sand it and doit all over again cause i used satin and its got WAY to much sheen to it that really sux.. but the color i like.
http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k77/nuczn/IMG_1638.jpg

http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k77/nuczn/IMG_1640.jpg
carpet and trip color sample

woah! its not nearly that red in real life by the way

Nice, cant wait to see the finish. I like the columns in front.

Were the sconces inspired by Mr. Poindextor or did you pick those yourself? Speaking of Mike, anyone seen or heard from him?

hey mark!

nope Mr poindexter inspired the carpet hes got some kinda french looking sconses these sconses were inspired by JohnTech's theater build

Nice job on the room. Your woodworking skills look very professional. I'm planning to attack a cabinet build myself for the wet bar area. Keep up the great work and I'll be watching your progress!

thanks Steve im sure your cabinets are gonna turn out amazing you did a great job with your projects as well!!

Well got some solid stuff done today. Started on the trim for around the arches

i had to make curved pieces out of a solid cherry board
http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k77/nuczn/IMG_7599.jpg
i used my left over white plastic to make a template of the arch

http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k77/nuczn/IMG_7601.jpg
then i ran them through the planer down to 3/8 of an inch thick and cut out the first curve with a jig saw then i scribed them to the arch and sanded them perfect

http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k77/nuczn/IMG_7602.jpg
next i measured down in three spots how thick i wanted them and used a nail and a piece of string to make a consistent curve(since the scribe was not exactly curved) and cut and sanded to the line

http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k77/nuczn/IMG_7608.jpg
after i had then sanded nicely i ran then through the router to put a nice detail on them

http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k77/nuczn/IMG_7610.jpg
all the pieces planed, sanded, and ready to be cut

http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k77/nuczn/IMG_7611.jpg
pieces dry fit. i think im going to stain them then ill nail them up

http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k77/nuczn/IMG_7615.jpg

really happy with how it turned out im excited to be working on the finish trim work FINALLY!

one down one more to go

AHHHHHHH ijust realized i built my risers 1 1/2 to far forward i have to re build the entire thing what a MAJOR OOPS!!!!!!!!!!! F&$K if i leave it my lower cabinets stick out to far in order for the carpet to work i didnt factor that in DAMN!

AHHHHHHH ijust realized i built my risers 1 1/2 to far forward i have to re build the entire thing what a MAJOR OOPS!!!!!!!!!!! F&$K if i leave it my lower cabinets stick out to far in order for the carpet to work i didnt factor that in DAMN!
Been there -- done that. I made my riser about 2" too wide. Luckily I just had to take out a few screws and cut things down a bit. Luckily I had not attached the top yet :)

The trim around your recessed arched opening looks great! The trim and and arch match up VERY well -- 1st class job.

Oh yeah shes glued, screwed, caulked and hundreds of pounds of sand! LOL hey thank for the compliments though Steve im pleased with the results hopefully the second one will go as smooth

To have to re-do! the riser would be Out - Of - Control. But look on the positive side you will be abel to get back all those toys you left in there while using it as a sand box. LOL!!!
Give me a call !!

HAHAHA hey shaun hope all is well yeah ill give you a jingle! thanks for stoppin by bud

i have lamented about this and thought of ways to work around it. I need to rebuild my side cabinets and the riser. I just miscalculated and never caught it. We all put to much work and care into building our theaters to compromise when somthin doesnt work out right. You know what? nobody may ever notice, but its the little details that no one notices that are spot on that when added up make the whole executed design spectacular. i have spent too much time on this room to not redo it. as much as it kills me and sets me back cant compromise now!!!!. ok enough ranting i just needed to psych my self up to tear it out..

gives me a chance to illustrate exactly how to make the curves of the riser ok bed time

well got the stage ripped out what a pain! i built it to never come out and what a fight she gave! framing nails and every board glued down with liquid nails whew! not to mention all the sand! good grief.

http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k77/nuczn/IMG_7620.jpg

http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k77/nuczn/IMG_7621.jpg

http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k77/nuczn/IMG_7622.jpg

http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k77/nuczn/IMG_7624.jpg

http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k77/nuczn/IMG_7625.jpg

http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k77/nuczn/IMG_7626.jpg

http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k77/nuczn/IMG_7627.jpg

http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k77/nuczn/IMG_7628.jpg
took an hour and a half to scrape all the liquid nails and left over 2x6 fragments off the sub floor or what was left of it.

Also got my pieces and my bar cabinet and door stained and first coat of Poly on them
http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k77/nuczn/IMG_7632.jpg

Got a hell of a deal on a anest iwata lph 400 lv4 for $65 bucks at the pawn shop they must not have know the value cause its a $400.00 gun score! worked real nice spraying poly
http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k77/nuczn/LPH400-LV.jpg

the start of the new riser
http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k77/nuczn/IMG_7630.jpg

Where did you pick up the celotex sound stop board and what was the cost per sheet. I have not seen this product before. mite be something to look into

i got it at HD but honestly i wouldnt have used it if i knew about green glue and 2 layers of 5/8" drywall much better way to go. I think it was like 5 or 6 bucks a sheet though if you want to check into it

second coat of polyurethane done

All looks beautiful! Hope those banana plugs for the speaker wire work for you.

Where did you pick up the celotex sound stop board and what was the cost per sheet. I have not seen this product before. mite be something to look into

A while back I used some of the stuff but have since learned that 2 layers of DW actually performs better. However, It is a lot lighter and easy to work with.

In my research I found out something interesting. Celotex makes an exterior sheathing product and that Sound Stop board. I went to their web site and they actually post the formulas for how the two products are made. THE ONLY DIFFERENCE IS THAT THE EXTERIOR SHEATHING GETS A SPRAYED ON COATING OF BLACK TAR (very thin). I assume that helps it withstand the elements during the construction process. The sound stop gets a different label and the rest is marketing hype.

Lowes stocks the sheathing, HD only occasionally has the SoundStop (in my area) so if you can't get the soundstop go grab the sheathing. The tar smell goes away.

well got more work done on first riser second time
http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k77/nuczn/IMG_7638.jpg
first part of risers

http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k77/nuczn/IMG_7639.jpg
trim stained and 3 coats of poly

http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k77/nuczn/IMG_7642.jpg

http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k77/nuczn/IMG_7643.jpg

anyone know where to get recessed plugs? ive seen them before for dryers but do they make them for regular plugs?

anyone know where to get recessed plugs? ive seen them before for dryers but do they make them for regular plugs?
You want something like THIS (http://www.cinemabuilder.com/products/electrical/recessed-wall-plate.asp). I think they sell them at HD or Lowes but now sure. I know Chinadog/Bud used them in his room. Here is the full Leviton line (http://www.levitonhelpdesk.com/catalog/search/Clock-Receptacle-1.htm) of outlets like what you want (which is a brand they carry at HD).

exactly thanks Steve!

Where did you pick up the celotex sound stop board and what was the cost per sheet. I have not seen this product before. mite be something to look into

I have used both Celotex with one layer of 5/8s drywall and Green glue with two layers of drywall. The Celotex was a waist of money.

i have to agree it didnt do much! its a bit more for high end frequencies from what i understand but low end is still very much! fortunately i have structures along the side of my house to also break sound waves up bass is really non existent over at neighbors

just cause i love these
http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k77/nuczn/IMG_7653.jpg

http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k77/nuczn/IMG_7655.jpg

final coats of paint not applied hence MAJOR roller lines

ok on to real business, i havent had much time this week to work on the theater but tonight i did finalize the first stage step to correct dimensions

http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k77/nuczn/IMG_7644.jpg

http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k77/nuczn/IMG_7648.jpg
here you can get a good idea why i had to redo the stage, i am going to veneer the face so that had to line up with cabinets toe kick. also i realized i need to hold back the overhang to allow for carpet. Before i had a substantial overhang that i was figuring when the door was on and closed it would line up with the front of it. The problem with this was, how would they finish off the carpet on that side let alone closing issues due to the carpet. Now the carpet should just be about flush with cabinet shown and the door will be proud.

http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k77/nuczn/IMG_7657.jpg
one of my 2 job supervisers

got stage finished im going to wait to fill with sand and glue this time till im sure its all right lol
http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k77/nuczn/IMG_7676.jpg


http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k77/nuczn/IMG_7677-1.jpg

http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k77/nuczn/IMG_7657.jpg
one of my 2 job supervisers

Nice looking pup. Is that a Vizsla?

The wife and I got a German Short Haired Pointer Puppy a few months ago. He is a good boy, but it seems like all of my time is taken up by training, exercising and watching after him. He is 5 month old now. I have no time to do my basement HT. How do you manage?

-matt

http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k77/nuczn/IMG_7677-1.jpg
Stage looks great. Hope you don't have to do that again :D

Yeah that puppy is a handfull!!! and she is a vizsla shes 8 months i also have a 7 year old so they play alot together but its not easy.

Thanks Steve me too

thanks for the clear reply too Steve

ahh no work on theater today money has been depleted ahh.. when ya got the money no time when you have the time no money lol! taxes drained my funds this week too be continued next week

im really needing to get my subs ordered so i can make sure i have everything worked regarding stage and front cabinets.. 2 hsu vtf-2 mk3 subs in the front Muwaahahaha... i wanna make sure they are going to sound good as well otherwise i gotta make some serious decisions about putting them in the back of the room but thats gonna mess with my seating

im really needing to get my subs ordered so i can make sure i have everything worked regarding stage and front cabinets.. 2 hsu vtf-2 mk3 subs in the front Muwaahahaha... i wanna make sure they are going to sound good as well otherwise i gotta make some serious decisions about putting them in the back of the room but thats gonna mess with my seating
A friend of mine as a single VTF3 MK2 in his 15x18x9 room. It is a nice sub for the money. He has it sitting right next to this couch doubling as a side table. That thing shakes the couch like you have butt-kickers installed. Two of those suckers should rock your room.

Just curious -- why haven't you consider a few DIY subs? You will most likely get more performance for less money out of pocket. You definitely have the skills to build one so that can't be holding you back??

just didnt know where to start! i have built many a sub box for cars in my day but just didnt know what components to use or ideas for design. Side fire vs. down fire to port or not to port... just out of my element i would gladly welcome any ideas. the Hsu sub is 22"(h) X 15" (w) X 23"

id do it if i could get a killer sub

but those hsu subs are down 2 $499 which is real cheap. could i build a better sub for a little more? id throw 900 at one if i knew id would rock

A friend of mine as a single VTF3 MK2 in his 15x18x9 room. It is a nice sub for the money. He has it sitting right next to this couch doubling as a side table. That thing shakes the couch like you have butt-kickers installed. Two of those suckers should rock your room.

Just curious -- why haven't you consider a few DIY subs? You will most likely get more performance for less money out of pocket. You definitely have the skills to build one so that can't be holding you back??

nuczn - looking good man! Sorry you had to redo the stage but it looks great and I am sure you will be happier in the end.

ok -

I have the same VTF3 MK2 sub turned up half way and it is so powerful that I feel like turning it up all the way would bring the house down...I can't imagine having 2 of them but that is(was) my plan too.

Steve - I really need to hear an IB set-up but since I can't - could you elaborate more on what the IB subs you have add that is different from the friends VTF3?



I am just worried that 2 of the VTF3's would explode the cabinets nuczn worked so hard on... ;)

just didnt know where to start! i have built many a sub box for cars in my day but just didnt know what components to use or ideas for design. Side fire vs. down fire to port or not to port... just out of my element i would gladly welcome any ideas. the Hsu sub is 22"(h) X 15" (w) X 23"

id do it if i could get a killer sub

but those hsu subs are down 2 $499 which is real cheap. could i build a better sub for a little more? id throw 900 at one if i knew id would rock
You could definitely build something under $900. In fact, you could build some kick a$$ dual 15" subs for about $900.

If you build a sealed sub, it is a no-brainer -- just pick nearly any size/shape you want (the larger the better). Ported styles takes a little planning but can dig a bit deeper (given reasonable enclosure size). If you start a thread over at HTGuide.com, they will walk you through ever step :)

Lots of info at htguide.com and here at avsforum (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/forumdisplay.php?f=155). Here is a gallery (http://htguide.com/forum/showthread.php4?t=18218) of many completed DIY subs with links to their construction thread.

thanks again steve! i think id go ported but i still need to incorporate them into the cabinets which sucks i wish i had planned for subs better. do people ever put them in there crawl space or anything like that. or attic?

nuczn - looking good man! Sorry you had to redo the stage but it looks great and I am sure you will be happier in the end.

ok -

I have the same VTF3 MK2 sub turned up half way and it is so powerful that I feel like turning it up all the way would bring the house down...I can't imagine having 2 of them but that is(was) my plan too.

Steve - I really need to hear an IB set-up but since I can't - could you elaborate more on what the IB subs you have add that is different from the friends VTF3?


I am just worried that 2 of the VTF3's would explode the cabinets nuczn worked so hard on... ;)
Jason,

Let me 1st say I was very impressed with the VTF3's performance. I was planning to get one or two of these for my room before I decided to build my IB setup.

When I was over at his house, we listened to some Dire Straits (stereo and DTS 5.1), Eagles 5.1 and some movie demo material. He has a crescent curved couch that seats (4) with the sub acting as a small side table about an inch from the right seated position. He actually put a piece of quarter inch glass on top of the sub to protect it from spills, etc.

During all the music, the "musical" ability of this sub exceed my expectations. Bpape/Brian always said how fast and musical this sub was and I was not let down. It digs down low and has PLENTY of power even with the volume at about 40%.

When we switched to movie mode, I put in the Flight of the Phoenix plane crash. There is a scene where the plane does a 360 rollover in the air and the bass is really intense. The HSU did a nice job! The couch vibrated like there were buttkickers installed (and he does not have any). You felt the the scene all around you.

With that said, this is where the IB surpassed the HSU. The IB gives you everything I mentioned above plus a real punch in the chest. The room just has more pressure and you feel more than just vibration. It's hard to describe but both of us noticed the difference (he had experienced by room about 1 month earlier).

What will really be scary is when I add the other (2) 15" woofs to my setup. At that point, I think the chest pounding will be unreal. I can't wait :D

thanks again steve! i think id go ported but i still need to incorporate them into the cabinets which sucks i wish i had planned for subs better. do people ever put them in there crawl space or anything like that. or attic?
You never told me you have attic space next to your theater. Infinate Baffle (IB) will give you the best performace for the least amount of cash. You can use any crawl space below the HT or the attic space beside or above the room. The larger the space, the better.

It's a VERY simple install. You just build a box and put (2) 15" or 18" woofs on either side firing at each other. One side of the box is open to the HT room. A simple dual 15" woofs (http://www.soundsplinter.com/rlp15_subwoofer_information.html), a 1400watt amp (http://www.zzounds.com/item--BEHEP1500) and an EQ (http://www.zzounds.com/item--BEHDSP1124P) would run you about $900 shipped. You would just need to buy a sheet of 3/4" B/C plywood and a sheet of 3/4" OSB or MDF. Depending on the size of your box, you might be able to get away with a single sheet.

Here is mine. It lives in the attic space in the front of the theater. I actually used plywood scaps I had left over from my stage to build mine. You might also ping ebr and ronnie_jackson because they built IBs with some great success. You can see the entire build HERE (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=9309890&&#post9309890).
http://swithey.gotdns.org/swithey/ht/avs/IB-Driver3.JPG
http://swithey.gotdns.org/swithey/ht/avs/IB-WiredUp2.JPG

i dont have space infront of theater but below and above theater! well i do have a laundry room that could get a modification! its behind my screen wall but i really dont want to modify it just for future issues i guess. Now does the sub vibrate the heck out of the adjoining space? ib be worried about excess sound from untreated spaces the sub would be in. Not that my theater is treated the way it should be but still. any suggestions for all above thoughts Steve? Thanks again for all your ideas i really appreciate it.

Brandon

Im so excited about this idea Steve i have spent all night researching the IB idea. i am asking questions from people on the ibsubwoofers forum to see how well 2 dual 15 inch setups mounted in the crawl space under those cabinets will work out. this would solve all my space issues and from what i am readin will BLOW away 2 traditional box subs. your enthusiastic responses from yours is great swaying power for the dark side hehe.

You can use EQable plate amps as well in a IB sub and place it anywhere, Im running 4 15"ers with a 1200 watt plate amp and half thats probably wasted since IBs offer up no resistance on the drivers. Saves oodles of space and fan noise, being in Seattle you can get some really nice drivers and save on shipping as well. Put it in the attic and enjoy 10 hz shaking your entire home, atleast up to 10K sq. ft.

Brandon,

You will be very happy with a IB setup. Noise level throughout the house (given that you have not done much in the way of sound isolation) will not be much worse than if you have the subs in the room -- at least that has been my experience. I would not invade the laundry room but utilize you attic or crawl space.

Mark P has some good advice on the plate amp. I like the O-Audio 500Watt plate amp (http://www.oaudio.com/500W_SUBAMP.html) for $229 or a 1000watt plate amp (http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=300-808) from Parts Express for about $348. I'm running about 650watts to my (2) 15s right now with the power at about 60%. 500watts should get pretty close to what you need but I recommend spending the extra $100 and getting an amp with more headroom.

hows the noise outside with an IB guys? thats really all im concerned about is neighbors and weather putting in the attic or underground crawl is going to be less noticeable as far as noise for them

where did you guys locate the amp? and are you using an eq setup

hows the noise outside with an IB guys? thats really all im concerned about is neighbors and weather putting in the attic or underground crawl is going to be less noticeable as far as noise for them
Screw your neighbors :D ;) Actually, I've been outside during a high-volume scene and it is hardly noticeable. During really loud levels, the air vents in the roof rattle and the composite shingles start the crackle a bit. You need to ask yourself, you will never watch a movie at levels like that? If you do, I'll be over this weekend for a movie :)

Movie Watching AVR Levels:
-8 to -10: When I'm demoing the room to buddies (which rocks the room nicely)
-12: When I watch movies (and no-one is home)
-16 to -18: When I watch them with the wife
-20 to -22: When the kids are watching a movie

The other day when I had a few guys over, I had the level at -14 and it sounded great with very strong bass. I did not want to scare them away :p


As far as noise bleed, here is a quick run-down based on AVR level:

NOTE: I only have single drywall, the HT entry sold-core door does not have any seals around it yet and there is a 3/4" gap between the bottom of this door and the floor. So, I still have some work to do.

-20 to -22: You hear nothing downstairs and only when you get about 5' from the HT entry door. Dialog is easy to hear at this level but the surround experience is diminished a bit (which is expected).

-18: Some bass heard upstairs and the occasional bass thump downstairs. Overall, a good level with little disruption to outside rooms. You also get a good surround experience and strong enough bass that you can feel. We use this level when watching movies after the kids have gone to bed. They have never woken up to complained about the sound.

-12: You hear it up and downstairs. But, keep in mind, my room is not sealed much at all. The plates rattle downstairs in the kitchen and you can almost understand dialog from downstairs as well. The garage (which sits directly below the HT and IB attic space) sounds like you are inside a big boomy drum. Now you know why I do not turn it up this loud unless I'm home alone.

-8: Hmm, that is when the shingles crackle, roof vents rattle and you can hear the bass outside at moderate levels. However, after extended volume at this level, you leave the room feeling like you just got back from a rock concert. I only listen to this level in short intervals.

NOTE: Since the HT room is directly above the garage, you can hear bass even at -20 levels or louder. I tell you this in case your HT room is above or below any living space.

where did you guys locate the amp? and are you using an eq setup
I have a closet off to the side of my theater. I have everything in there. With the door open you can heard the fans from the HTPC and sub amp. However, once the hollow-core door is shut, I cannot hear anything unless you stand a few inches from the door. You hear nothing from the seats in the room.

EDIT: And yes, I am using the $99 EQ I mentioned earlier.

the idea is similar to M. Mitten's hidden IB. He has his coming out from under cabinet location so again im thinking of 2 15s in each location

http://home.comcast.net/~infinitelybaffled/MittenSubOpen.jpg

here is a close up of my cabinet area its 22 x 15 the cabinet is 11 deep and 4 inches from the wall
http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k77/nuczn/IMG_7678.jpg

http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k77/nuczn/IMG_7680.jpg
crawl space location 1 left side

http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k77/nuczn/IMG_7681.jpg
right side duct is not in the way

house was built in 56 so its 24 oc beams with 2 1/2 inch car decking subfloor

the attic is the ideal location but im not psyched about a vent in-front of my soffit

That will work out nicely :) To save a few bucks and probably get about 85-90% of the performance of (4) 15s, you could go with just a pair of Ficar 18" woofs. Ronnie_Jackson did (2) of these puppies in his room and it was flexing the ceiling joists with all the power these things could deliver.

You might check them out HERE (https://ssl.perfora.net/www.ficaraudio.com/sess/utn;jsessionid=15462e607636ef5/shopdata/product_overview.shopscript). I'm not sure which model is the best for HT use. It's either the Fi.BL or Fi.Q -- both sold for $309/ea. The SoundSplinter RL-p15 (http://www.soundsplinter.com/rlp15_subwoofer_information.html) 15s sell for $254/ea. They have 18s now which sell for slightly more than the Ficars at $325/ea.

here is my attic also when i was in the crawlly i noticed all the vents and so forth that will allow huge sound to escape so i think either will be loud but oh well. i could do 4 15s centered in front of the soffit or 2 sets 0f 2 in front of cabinets on ceiling. i tested with a sub in the seating position and listened in these locations and got good bass response only used my ears but the room sounds pretty good in all 5 locations.

http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k77/nuczn/attic.jpg

im now wondering if the subs under the cabinets will vibrate the pillars

i read ronnies thread and thats a concern for doing the attic, ceiling flexing and dust flyin all over. but he used a line array i believe, a manifold design will reduce vibrations abd stress on the structure right Steve

i read ronnies thread and thats a concern for doing the attic, ceiling flexing and dust flyin all over. but he used a line array i believe, a manifold design will reduce vibrations abd stress on the structure right Steve
Yes it will. Ronnie is building a manifold for his so you'll have an answer sooner than later.

Attic is fine and might actually be easier to install the box. Mark P did his in the attic with a manifold and (4) 15s.

i hear the floor style gives you alot more bang for the buck IE it shakes the heck out of the floor :D im just waiting for some sort of green light from people as far as how the cabinets might affect the sound. then its just a matter of 15's or 18's

If they still made Shivas ( which they might) you may consider 4 of them in a square box. they are agressive 12" ers. I would personally have gone this route if I didnt have a 20 x 40 x 14 room to power. I have heard a 4 shiva setup and its very impressive. I would stick to attic, yours is puuuuurfect and my 4 15" setup sounds like thunder.........

a quarter mile away.

I do listen at reference levels and scare the living tar out of people but thats how they ( and I ) like it, mix that with a D-Box and people almost pee themselves with glee

really Mark you think attic huh! your theater is amazing btw cant wait to see the final product it simply beautiful!

again just trying to cover the basses here.
if i do do attic 1 ib with 4 15's in the center or 2 dual 15 ib's in front of pillars soffit?

fantastic help at iibsubwoofers forum i am going to go with the crawl space setup under the cabinets and close the back of them i will have a 11x 22 inch opening for pure low bass love. still cant decide between 4 15's or 4 18's thinking about the ones ronnie used people say good things about them for a decent price. i cant wait.. now i need some cash!

so here is the idea "following pictures borrowed from (zapper on ibsubwoofers forum)"

http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u72/zapper77/IB003.jpg
one of those under each cabinet, in the crawl space. Basicly as shown but turned the long way. I like the idea of the floor shaking with the bass a little more

http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u72/zapper77/IB009.jpg

http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u72/zapper77/IB012.jpg

with the back of the cabinet closed in i will make the hole in the floor the same size Like above. Then make the sub box shorter than the one shown in the pictures. The cabinet will then become an extension on the sub box. I just need to make sure all the columns have some flexible, absorbant caulking at the joints to absorb the vibrations of the cabinet.

I think this is going to be really exciting i cant wait.

Steve hats off to you for you thorough description of your build and thoughts of how the system sounded in your thread, Much appreciated

and Willd for the link to a great wealth of information about infinite baffle "IB" subwoofers
https://home.comcast.net/~infinitelybaffled/

Steve- Mark and all who can give advice

what di i need to re run as far as wiring for this setup
i have 1 rca run and a coax
can i put my amp and feedback buster in the rack?
walk me through the wiring, what cabels i need to run from lfe output from receiver- to feedback buster-to amp-to subs

i think i answered my own question. basicly id be going rca out of lfe from reciever into 1/4 inch to feedback buster 1/4 inch to 1/4 inch to amp the wire each set of 2 subs in series?

i think i answered my own question. basicly id be going rca out of lfe from reciever into 1/4 inch to feedback buster 1/4 inch to 1/4 inch to amp the wire each set of 2 subs in series?
Yep, that's it. When you wire up the subs, you'll use a combo of parallel and series to keep the total load at 4ohm. The Pro amps can power a 2ohm load but why put them under that stress if you don't have to. I have both my EQ and Amp rack mounted and I ran 12/2 wire to the subs.

With (4) woofs now, I think you just blew your budget on just the drivers. How is that fairing with the wife?

Just a side comment (I'm trying to save you some money) -- I'd got with the (2) 18s and call it quits. I only have (2) 15s in my room right now and they are pretty darn impressive. Two 18s move about the equivalent air of 2.6 15s. You could always start out with a pair of 18s and see how you like it. If you want more, you could order (2) more. This would keep you in budget so you can enjoy them sooner than later.

hehehe fortunatly or unfortunatly no wife yet im 29 ive got some time still. at least untill the theater is done LOL!!! that way i dont have to run anything by the forman :p ;) :D

if i can get away with like 12-1300 id be ok. i think i will proabably start with one set my room is alot smaller than yours or certainly marks. i might do the 18's but i found some great deals if your buying 4 15's or 18's id rather have the overhead than always be wanting more. There is a lot of cash that still needs to be pumped in this theater to get her done. I may need to wait on some of my extra frills.

i borrowed Mr. Poindexters carpet and fell in love with it before i knew how much it was :eek: $2,900 bucks to carpet my little room &**#@ :eek: But it makes the room for me and there is nothing like it for cheaper.

These rooms of our are serious money pits!

iv always thought of 18's as being slow? 15's arnt going to sound better? I know its a different design and concept as a traditional box but my brain tells me no just the same

iv always thought of 18's as being slow? 15's arnt going to sound better? I know its a different design and concept as a traditional box but my brain tells me no just the same
Yes, larger drivers can be slower but I'm not sure it will matter in a HT environment. If you were a huge audiophile and used tube amps and 20k speakers, you might hear the difference. However, so many people have put in those 18s and had just unbelievable success that I would not discount them. If you do plan to get (4) drivers -- then the 15s would work out quite well (I guarantee it) and save you some cash. Hmm -- I'll just sell you mine and I'll get (4) 18s so I can compete with ebr's and Ronnie setups ;)

BTW -- My room is 14.5' x 19.5' x 8'-10' (vaulted ceilings) & a small wetbar off to the side -- ~2,850cu/ft total. MarkPs room is HUGE (easily double the volume of mine) and his (4) 15s pressurize the room to a scary level.

wow he only has 4!! whew ok i think im good with 15's
my room is only 1632 cu/ft that oughta blow the roof off :D

theater progress in on hold for a while.. im afraid the IRS says i owe em 28 grand :eek: ouch!!! so i can't play for a little while :(

http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k77/nuczn/23.jpg

IB is the only way to go if your logistics allow for it. I have 4 Ascendant Atlas 15"ers in a line array with 2400 watts running them and "War of the Worlds" was downright scary when the pods came out of the ground. You can also EQ it pretty flat for music and with a house curve for movies. It is the most musical sub I have had, besides being brutal on HT duty. I didn't go through all of the posts above, but you need to check out http://www.mach5audio.com/index-2.html for their IXL-18.4 18" sub suitable for IB. Their preorder special , which I believe is still on, is $175.00 each shipped. You can read about them at https://home.comcast.net/~infinitelybaffled/ You might also check out Home Theater Shack for in-depth dialing-in with the Feedback Destroyer. I apologize for posting other links, feel free to delete if not appropriate. Just thought it would be helpful and save you some money if you were able to buy the drivers now. Very nice theater BTW.

Good Luck,

Harold :)

thanks Harold! no definitely the links are good.... infinitely baffled has been a huge resource for my learning about IB subs, great people there.. I have read some good stuff on the mach5 subs also thanks so much for your input and you positive feedback on how you love your setup.

Is yours attic or crawl or inwall? line array or manifold. Just curious.

theater progress in on hold for a while.. im afraid the IRS says i owe em 28 grand :eek: ouch!!! so i can't play for a little while :(

You need to fire that accountant or financial planner. Hell, fire them both! Good luck sorting that out :confused:

Is yours attic or crawl or inwall? line array or manifold. Just curious.[/QUOTE]

It's a vertical array set up in what used to be a door into a bathroom. The bathroom serves as the backspace. I set it up so the door is open on the bathroom side when the subs are running and closed when not running. When the door's closed, there's no clue what's behind it!

Good luck with the Tax Man!

Harold

i bet it sounds fantastic harold..

i closed on my refinance of my house today so everything is not going to be as bad as i thought it was. I paid off every debt i had . Student loans, line of credit, credit cards and my truck and that is a huge relief. The tax man is goin to be off my back for $350.00 a month and i can pay more when i got it. now i basically have a house payment, the tax man and phone cable yadda yadda. HUGE burdens gone. theater can commence slowly again.....

theater progress in on hold for a while.. im afraid the IRS says i owe em 28 grand :eek: ouch!!! so i can't play for a little while :(

Do you really owe that much? Last month I had a scare when I got a letter from the IRS saying that I neglected to report some income on my 2005 taxes, and I owed them $9000. It had to do with a mutual fund we had that was transferred from one fund to another. Even though we didn't sell any of it, when it was transferred they sell from one fund and buy another. Since we knew we didn't sell any, we somehow missed this on our taxes. So we talked to our mutual fund adviser and she said that if there is any problem with your taxes, the IRS just sends you a bill for the maximum. So we hired a tax accountant to help us out, and she found that rather than oweing $9000, the IRS actually owed us another $2000 or so! Ha, take that IRS! They drew first blood. It turns out we also neglected to report some losses that year. To make a long boring tax story short, we've decided we're too dumb to do our own taxes anymore and we'll be hiring this tax accountant from now on.

Guy

yeah unfortunately i really do owe that much.....

Look at it positively it must have been a good year.

Sorry to hear the the Timeless Impressions Theater will need more time before it can make an impression. :(

.

Whatever happened here, sheesh i would really like to see the finished product

Nothing more has been done I'm broke! my speakers that have never been used and my screen are for sale if anyone is interested. Monitor audio silver rs 6 rs 1's and rs LCR all for sale with reciept never even broken in. 92 inch Stewart firehawk never taken the screen out of the tube

Pm for details.
1000 bucks speaks
1000 bucks screen

Paid 2300 for speakers
And 2100 for the screen

Nothing more has been done I'm broke! my speakers that have never been used and my screen are for sale if anyone is interested. Monitor audio silver rs 6 rs 1's and rs LCR all for sale with reciept never even broken in. 92 inch Stewart firehawk never taken the screen out of the tube

Pm for details.
1000 bucks speaks
1000 bucks screen

Paid 2300 for speakers
And 2100 for the screen

And so with all this work done you just quit? sell everything??..that is the craziest thing I have ever heard of. Heck im dirt freakin broke and have been for months...BUT I be dang if Im gonna sell my things I worked my butt off for. I would rather not have tv,phone,internet and eat ramen noodles every day as to give my things up..

sorry, pisser for sure.

Well there comes a time where that is no longer an option and you have to prioritize what's important. My house? My life? My vehicle? My things? Sometime you have no choice I said the same thing for months now and I have no options at this point

Hope you make it through this patch. Family and security are much more important than any hobby. Good luck.

Man, sorry to hear that. However, you seem to be a self-starter. Think about when you get started again, you get to purchase all new equipment!

CJ

Best of luck to you. I really enjoyed following your build and look forward to your return one day in the future.