Well, I just got my permit to begin the build yesterday.

I have read and read, and posted now since December of '05. Things moved very slowly, then last month I FINALLY got my 100 amp main breaker panel upgraded to 200 amps. That's another story in itself.

Anyway, so yesterday I got my plans, my applications, and went to the permit office. I got my plans approved!
So I have no excuses now. Please check out my plans, if you'd like, and offer feedback.

Here are some of the details...

1) Room dimensions 7' x13'x19'10". What's that? 1:1.86:2.83?
2) Acoustic ideas for sound isolation: Stud wall ~1" from concrete wall, North and East walls, and over that drywall-GG-drywall. Ceiling, South and West:Regular stud walls with DD-GG sandwich also.
3) I plan on doing 1/2 Linacoustic 1/2 poly batting on side and back walls. Linacoustics on front wall.
4) Screen looks like it may be the SMX custom screen I have seen SandmanX use. I will use a "false wall" design that so many have used here.
5) I will use a 7' riser, and a 6" stage. Seating will be determined at a later date.
6) I am debating on lighting-track lights vs "in-ceiling" cans. Anyone have any good reasons why one way or the other?
7) The column design is to hide the side surrounds. I will probably hang the rears from the wall, sans columns

Any advice or hints would be appreciated. I will start the "destruction phase" this weekend, then start making my HT!
I hope I can log my successes and failures in this forum, looking forward to feedback,
China Clipper

#2 - Consider a staggered stud wall for the South and West walls - better isolation.

#6 - I have yet to see a track light that didn't buzz and rattle and burn out bulbs if there's a serious subwoofer in the room. If you want something less intrusive, consider sconces between the columns, cans in the soffits, and rope lighting in a recessed cove up top.

Determine your seating positions first. Everything else goes from there - screen size which drives throw distance. Seat position determines riser position, etc.

Bryan

Permits? We don't need no stinkin' permits.

Good luck with your project!

#2 - Consider a staggered stud wall for the South and West walls - better isolation.
#6 - I have yet to see a track light that didn't buzz and rattle and burn out bulbs if there's a serious subwoofer in the room. If you want something less intrusive, consider sconces between the columns, cans in the soffits, and rope lighting in a recessed cove up top.

Determine your seating positions first. Everything else goes from there - screen size which drives throw distance. Seat position determines riser position, etc.

Bryan

I agree, but the West wall is an existing wall, and it is the main weight bearing wall of the basement. I would loose some width too, of course.

As far as soffits, once again, I agree, but head space is a big issue here. I hadn't planned for soffits, but I suppose it is a possibility.

By seating I meant type of seats, NOT position. Seating position is planned already. I'm just not sure what to go with. I will probably used existing couches for temp seats until I can get some REAL theater seats.

DANKAPPS used some track lights, I wonder how his theater turned out...?
Thanks for the reply!

Hey there China,

I did have to bang on a lot of displays before choosing the track lights I went with. While I don't have any rattle problems with mine, I wouldn't call my VTF-2 a "serious" sub either (by our standards around here). Don't get me wrong, It'll certainly kick you in the gut. But depending on how bass-hungry you are, that's surely something to think about.

Dan

Looks good. The only comment I'd make that hasn't been made is that the surrounds you've chosen shouldn't be hidden in a column, at least not according to Axiom. I asked about the QS8's being installed that way and got a resounding no.

Tom

Looks good. The only comment I'd make that hasn't been made is that the surrounds you've chosen shouldn't be hidden in a column, at least not according to Axiom. I asked about the QS8's being installed that way and got a resounding no.

Tom
Hey there! Thanks for all the good suggestions. I wonder if I should just scrap the columns then, and mount direct on the wall? I'd almost hate though to give up that nice look...

I wonder if the columns were designed in a way that would allow for side and bottom firing speakers like QS4 and QS8's?

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/attachment.php?attachmentid=60471&stc=1

Just a rough sketch, but the design allows sound to exit from sides and bottom...
What do you think?
What are my alternatives?
Chinaclipper

Check EBR's thread here: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=627306

He's using QS8s in columns...

Interesting indeed. Might want to post on Axiom's Home Theater board and ask if either your design or EBR's would be acceptable. I'd be VERY interested as I was thinking of doing the same... :)

Thanks for the heads up Dan. EBR is doing something a lot like what I am going to try to do, maybe a bit less of a scale. ;)

My rear Axioms will probably mounted directly on the wall;I think it will look fine. I kind of like the black Axioms anyway!

BTW, I asked my inspector to check out my situation, especially my ceiling height requirement. He said the 7 foot minimum limitation was indeed a rule, but, on the older "established" homes, he could be a bit more "lenient." He was cool with my idea of the 7" riser and the 6" stage too, as long as the riser didn't need a step up more than 8".

The ceiling was my biggest fear. I am glad I "got the final word" from building and safety.

So it looks like the idea of furring strips, 5/8" drywall, GG, then 1/2" drywall is a go! BTW, this is the inspector that actually will do the inspecting at my location too! :)

Incidentally, he suggested the "blown in" cellulose-like insulation for the ceiling and walls; (sigh) more research!!

Last weekend, I was able to pull up carpet, pull down my "suspended" ceiling (was <that> a dirty stinky job), and then next is the paneling. I think my wife will help me on that one;she hates that panelling!

PS: How do I post a picture so it shows up on my post, and not as a link? I DID read the FAQs, but didn't see it....
Chinaclipper

Wow, this thread is like deja vu! I have a 19'3" X 13'3" X 7' 3" room in a corner in my basement with two outside walls.
I am just starting to pull up the carpet. I will have to take down the drop ceiling and paneling as well.
I am pretty sure that I will be using a 7" riser and a 6" stage, false screen wall with an AT 2:35 screen.

I will be watching your thread carefully as I will be about 3 or so months behind you.

Good Luck with your project! Oh, and I played the drums for 12 years, and live in the Midwest. Sorry, I don't have 12 girls...

Rockhurst? Are you in the KC area?

ND

Judsonp:
Thanks for the kind words. Someone on this board said to plan for about 50% more time to complete your project than you originally thought, and do the same for budget.

Having said that, I have found that the "critical path timeline" idea works real well.
You plan for "landmark" events in the build, like demo, framing, etc.
Of course the first step is just to get going.



I have found that more than six months of planning and reading and researching has only BEGUN to get me ready. Scary, but real rewarding as well.

The BEST thing I did was to decide to get and take out permits for the build and the electrical. For some reason, those things just "gnawed" at me, I'm glad I did it. Although I MAY change my mind when they come in and actually start their "inspectin'" ;)

The second best was deciding to use a designer for the build. Unfortunately, I think I decided on the wrong designer, but, live and learn. There is a designer here, DE, and he seems to certainly be worth his asking price, and more, from what I have read.

On a personal note, my 12 girls are all from 18-22 years old. Sometimes I feel like I am the acting "dad" of all 12 girls, but, hey, no diapers...

ND23-I am in Nebraska :)
Chinaclipper

Well, we got almost all the "deconstruction" started or finished. Almost ready to start putting up walls.
Here is a picture of the stripped walls and the woodpile (http://tomdufresne.com/images/Theater/theater07_060007.JPG).
Hopefully this weekend I'll start screwing down some baseplates, cutting some wood, and framing.

PS: Oh, and I gotta close off that window!!
Chinaclipper

Good luck man. I'm here in Omaha too and am just finishing mine up. I am using the same screen material and had the same problems with a narrow basement. I ended up tapering my columns on the side so they are very narrow at the bottom of the wall and slope up to the top. Gave me more room to pass by them, but hold my M&K surrounds fine. You will overcome everything. Only wish I had put more space between my "screen wall" and actual front wall. It would have helped me with Sub placement options. Oh well, I'm still happy with the results.

China and Judsonp, count me in for a 13'3" x 20' x 8' theater as well. Mine is also in the basement with 2 poured concrete walls on the front and right side. Left wall is stud wall that has the basement bath, laundry room and stairwell on the other side. Rear wall is stud wall that will have our small office on the other side. I just got through about an hour ago unloading the rest of my lumber that I need to finish the framing. I work evening shift, so I can work on my room during the day. Will be following this thread with interest, as my timeline will be similar to China's. Good luck, guys. I'm planning on two rows of three seats, 7.1 hidden in columns and proscenium, stage and riser, soffits.........the whole enchilada. Can't wait!!

Chinaclipper,

Concerning the placement of your Panasonic 900UE projector, I would re-think the placement as you, your family and or your guests will be doing the limbo, ducking or bumping their head on the unit if placed between the two rows of seats. Look into a long throw lens and place the projector toward the back of the room.

Chinaclipper,

Concerning the placement of your Panasonic 900UE projector, I would re-think the placement as you, your family and or your guests will be doing the limbo, ducking or bumping their head on the unit if placed between the two rows of seats. Look into a long throw lens and place the projector toward the back of the room.
Mark:
Interesting comment, I have been wondering about that myself. One question to you- I though the Panasonic 900 was "good to go" from about 10'-19'?

I guess the long throw lens gets the picture to the screen without getting blocked by the audiance, right?
I will look into that.
Thanks Marc

Chinaclipper

Well, this weekend my nephew and I put up two of the three walls I needed to frame. It was much easier once I a) figured out that the guy at HD gave me the WRONG gas cylinder for the Paslode nail gun and b) we got the "system" going;ie, one would cut while the other would place the studs.

The first picture is the woodpile,with the footers in place;headers cut and resting on top. The next is a picture of how I "plugged" the window. I used a sheet of MDF and some styro insulation to make a rattle-proof (I hope) seal.

The final is a picture of the three studded walls. Love those flourescent lights... BTW...Getting rid of those and the nasty 1/4" fake mahogany panelling that was on the left wall will be a MAJOR WAF....

Next to do is finish the "door wall". I am putting in a 2'-8" door, my wife says she thinks it should be bigger-like a 2'10". Argh. What do you think? should I go with the bigger one? Will my furniture fit?!?!?!

China

The interior doors in the rest of our house are 3' doors, so that's what I'll be using for the 2 I need in the HT. One for the entrance in the left side, one for the entrance to the office in the left rear. I'd like to only have one door in the HT, but I guess you can't have it all.

Well, I finished the rest of the framing on Friday. Wow! All done with that chore. Next is to "de-wire" and then "re-wire the theater.

I am having a friend help me, permits in place, then I will have the inspector do his thing, hopefully in a few weeks or less.

I am going to try to do the "in-ceiling" cans for ceiling light, and sconces to fill in on the sides, with two riser lights well, just because it looks cool.

I have gotten a lot of good ideas about placing the Halo 5" new construction cans in sound-resistant/fire resistant boxes, so that will entail me purchasing the green glue.

I can hardly wait to get that project over with and start to drywall.
China

I am off this week, so I hopefully will get some things done. Last week, there was lots of busy-work in the build-nothing major but it keeps me busy! I finished the de-wiring and bought wiring, Green Glue, 5" Halo IC lights, and material for my ceiling light boxes.
This weekend I built the light boxes, and green glued and acoustical caulked 'em. That is a major chore, I am here to tell you! Hopefully I'll get the boxes up early this week. I am not sure how I'll mount them, I don't think I can afford $125 just for the RSIC clips (ouch!) I'll probably screw them to the joists, maybe I'll use rubber washers or something....

List of things to do soon: After I pass my framing inspection......;)

1) get low voltage conduit, then get holes drilled and install speaker wire
2) run hi volt wiring to o/h lights, sconces, stage and riser lights, and wire outlets
3) install and rig Grafix Eye 3104
4) install all other low voltage, ie CAT5e wiring etc..
5) install ceiling mount base for projector, incl. power and all lines to same
6) Purchase all sconce lighting boxes, install same
7) Research and purchase IR system for remotes
8) Contact HVAC guy and ask about installing more outlets in HT, possibly sound limiting ideas
9) Research how to install sconces w/o breaking drywall-greenglue drywall plane
10)Continue to read and research all the above for ideas how other do it!!


That should keep my busy for awhile, huh? I can't even SMELL drywall yet....
Tom
China CLipper

Well, I can't believe how much time and energy I put into those light boxes. I am sure there is an easier, faster way to do it, but here is a primer on how I did it.
Thanks to ScottJ0007 and Gary Kagen.
Oh yeah, I passed my framing inspection :)

Click here for photos on the boxes et al.. (http://tomdufresne.com/v-web/gallery/album05?page=1)
Hopefully, I'll finish the rest of the boxes tomorrow. I made a little "template" out of scrap furring strips, 5/8 drywall, and 1/2" drywall so I can see if it will work. Ideally, the 5/8" drywall will completely surround the box;it will be acoustically sealed with caulk, then the 1/2" drywall will cover the bottom with the hole of the lamp going thru the 1/2".
It's a good theory, but I am anxious to see how my "poor man's" RSIC clips work.

(sigh) Time for bed, and dream of other things I need to do.

Oh, BTW, the HVAC guy came out today (yesterday?) and gave me some great ideas.
He suggested I move the intake register away from the unit (much more quiet that way) will install one more register and duct, install better registers so I can do my columns (yeah) and will re-do my plenum boxes with something called thermal pan. It looks like aluminized cardboard. Should be much more useful then those rattling tin plates.

I am happy, I will pack duct channels/routes with insulation and hope it will do the trick, or at least better then what I have now...

Tom
Chinaclipper

Cool idea on the light boxes. Mind if I steal it? :)

Tom: Did you give any thought to using multiple rubber washers? In one picture it looks like it's clamped down pretty tight.

Cool idea on the light boxes. Mind if I steal it? :) Eddie: I am honored but I really must give the credit to ScottJ0007;he gave me the drawing and idea on another forum topic (Gary Kagen's on building light boxes). I am sure he wouldn't mind, and besides, he gives ALL the specs and sizes on the boxes so it made it REALLY cool to do; OK so maybe not cool but it did work out really well.
Tom: Did you give any thought to using multiple rubber washers? In one picture it looks like it's clamped down pretty tight
Vorlon (wasn't that the bad guys on Babylon 5?

That really big one that looked like a juke box? :) I used a few more washers on some, one on others. The washers make great gaskets too. I am so anal retentive I made all my boxes be level.. hahaha
I am sure I am not the only one to do that, but I bet I am the only one to actually build a "ceiling mock-up" to see how it would work, and make sure the boxes would sit "just so".
I could have used more washers, I made the bolts 4 inches to allow for such measures, but I really didn't need it. I figure one layer works as well as two, or more.... BTW, those darn washers aren't cheap either. Make sure you get the ones just big enough-don't go crazy on sizes. It goes from like 15 cents to 50 cents.
Oh well, tomorrow we rough in some of the electrical-no lights in the boxes yet, just wire. Gotta rough-in and show Mr Inspector first!!

Hopefully we'll put in a few conduit courses and speaker wire too...

BTW, a contact I know says Menards has plastic conduit (for underground sprinklers) that runs 1" and 1 1/2" for like $24 a roll of 100 feet. That is almost 1/4th of what the orange smurf conduit stuff runs.) I'll check it tomorrow.

Tom
Chinaclipper

Well, that "plastic conduit" turned out to be 1" plastic sprinkler pipe. Not flexible enough for me; negative Ghostrider.....

However, I DID come across some 1 1/4" sump pump pipe (corregated plastic) that looks like it may do fine. At $6/24 feet, it might do the trick. My electrician friend assures me that all I need is a pathway, and code doesn't specify or forbid this type of conduit for L/V applications.
We got some GOM samples Friday (along with my IR stuff from SmartHome) so we get a chance to start seriously considering colors. I am favoring a burgandy with black mix, kind of half and half, with black GOM below the chair rail.

Unfortunately, today is "back to work". The first Sunday before school starts necessitates pre-competion physicals, which means we are busy from 0900hrs to 2100hrs. Not much time for doing HT things. However, it's always good to see the kids returning from home-ah the pitter-patter of little feet... And no, Mickey Rooney is NOT coming to dinner......

I DID have a chance last night to start pulling wire and "wiring up" the ceiling cans. Next is to finish the electrical rough-in and get the electrical inspection out of the way, then insulation and, dare I say it (I dare-I dare!!) drywalling.

Have a great week everyone ;)
Tom
Chinaclipper

Well, the HVAC guy came out last week, installed an extra line, moved my return, and gave some good advice all around. My inspector came out this noon, gave everything a green light, but I need to make a "hi-low" return on my upper basement door.

Shouldn't be a problem, it's not in my theater, it's the door upstairs that leads to the basement. The inspector said I need more air into the laundry room where the water heater is.... No worries!

Did finish the ceiling cans wiring, and started pulling the rest of the sconce wiring. Next I need to finalise placement and wire the outlets to be located in the columns, and then get the inspector out again to do the electrical "rough-in".

Oh yeah, on the advice of "she who must be obeyed" I changed the 32" door to a 36" door. I would HATE to have to listen to those "I told you so's!!" if my chairs seating wouldn't fit in...

Right on schedule so far, still looking for a mid-November opening.

BTW, I got my allotment of "Fidelio Velvet" for the screen and proscenium area. Man! That stuff is BLACK!!!
Later,
Tom
Chinaclipper

Did some more work last weekend-Mostly finishing up on wiring the lights and finishing the outlets. I put some extra ones in "just in case", so it took a few more hours longer than I thought.

Next will be to have a friend look at my work, and "pre-inspect" it for the inspectors.

BTW, I found some 3/4" "smurf tube" Corlon orange LV conduit at HD, never saw it there until yesterday. I will see how many 12/2 speaker wire runs I can get in there.

Still a bit unsure how I am going to mount my outlet boxes with my 2 7/8th inch thick walls.....
Chinaclipper
Tom

Way to keep rolling, Tom!! :)

The Vorlons weren't so much the bad guys as the Shadows were, but yeah, Kosh sorta looked like a jukebox, didn't he??

OK! I was really happy to be able to say my electrical rough-in inspection is a pass! My mentor gave me a few hints, and even called the inspector who actually gave me a call and asked if he could come out and check things out.

I was really impressed. He was very cool. He listened as I explained how I was going to do the outlets in the columns, the light boxes were questioned and found fine, and I told him how I was going to do the sconces. All checked out great. For whatever reason I was really pleased to get this step behind me.

Now I can really get to work, huh? Next up is speaker conduit, pull a few hundred feet of speaker wire, then CAT5 wire, then insulation. I can almost, ALMOST smell drywall...
later
Tom
Chinaclipper

Thanks for sharing your work, clipper - I'm jealous, I'm stuck in seemingly never ending planning - so many things to consider - I want to start construction NOW, but still too many unknowns I need to nail down.

Thanks for sharing your work, clipper - I'm jealous, I'm stuck in seemingly never ending planning - so many things to consider - I want to start construction NOW, but still too many unknowns I need to nail down.
Roger that Brad-I was there once too!
I found that you just have to "do it"... put away the pencils and paper, and get started!

I started by getting the permits.

It was the biggest push I have had to date.....OK, that and some of the real nice construction threads here!
Best luck

Tom
Chinaclipper

whew hew! My 100th post!!

Well, things have slightly stalled for a while. Work and home responsibilities are piling up, putting a dampner on the build.

I have closed up the holes in the west wall, and now will start pulling speaker wire over the weekend. I am using 1 orange 3/4" "smurf tube" conduit for front, center, and Cat5, sub if it will fit, and another each for side/rear surrounds, and one spare.

So I should have 5-6 conduits terminating in the "equipment room."

I will also see about a 2-3" conduit in the ceiling for the projector.

I am seriously considering getting the Panny 900U before the rebate expires, and so I will be able to "jimmy" with the location and placement of same.

I am currently planning on locating the PJ in the back, midline, and from the ceiling.

Pictures to follow as needed....
Tom
Chinaclipper

Well, it's been a hectic last few weeks, but I did get some things done.
First of all, I finally decided to get the Panasonic AX100U. I was really wavering on either this one, or the Panny 900U, but it just didn’t make sense to get old technology.

I know I probably paid too much, and that it will probably drop drastically in price, I don’t care. It’s a decision and it’s done. I should have the beast by Tuesday the 3rd of October.

I also got my screen decision made. I am getting 4 yards of SMX material from Sandman, and will then further experiment and decide what size to build in my situation. I have many ways to go, and I felt that the getting of the PJ and screen would allow me to make those choices before things are “set in stone”, as they say. I am very excited about this new screen material, and am thinking of placing at least my center channel behind the screen.

I am pondering on size, whether I go with a 106” diagonal or a 120” diagonal. I MAY be looking at the amorphic (sp?) lens system at sometime, so hence the size issue. If I do go with the amorphic lens at some time in the future, I MAY have more flexibility with the bigger screen size. I have gotten some good info on size and placement, so I think I have a good place to start.

This weekend I finally arranged speaker conduits, and even pulled a few wires for fun.

I needed to pull the wire through the conduit. I chose a CL in-wall 12ga speaker wire, and was going to put three wires (front ® and (L) and center in one conduit (along with a string just in case!) I remembered someone had said instead of using an expensive fishing tape (which I didn’t have) you could tie a bit of cloth on a string, then place a shop vac on one end, and let the suction carry the string all the way through. This was exactly what I did, and then I tied the string to the wire bundle and pulled the whole shebang through, slick as snot! junction box. (http://tomdufresne.com/v-web/gallery/album08/image2)
Here are some of my pics-for more, please check online. Here are my latest pics! (http://tomdufresne.com/v-web/gallery/album08)

Next I need to put a few more 2x4’s in for speaker and sconce backers; I MAY even decide to put in a few more sconces for balance. Next big chore is going to be insulation, then furring strips and DRYWALL!!

Tom
Chinaclipper

I finally got my Panasonic AX100U. What an incredible experience! I can’t really give a very good review because I’ve only one projector to base it on-this one!

Put it this way-when Mrs Chinaclipper came down to take a look at my bequest, she about tripped on her jaw!

I had to make up a jury rigged screen. The slightly grey 4x8’ drywall panel I just happen to have lying around (“now what are you going to do with that ONE sheet of ½” drywall hun?”) made for a great trial screen, placed up on the not even drywall-ed wall.

I have an old Sony DVD (480p), and set the PJ up on a workbench. I didn’t even have sound! Who needs it?!?!?!

Once again, all I can say is “wow!”

I think this Home Theater thing is gonna be pretty cool!
Now I FINALLY see why you are recommended NOT to purchase a PJ before you have finished the build!

Oh well, time for more mundane things, finish speaker wires runs, insulation, etc…
Best,
Tom
Chinaclipper

I finally got my Panasonic AX100U. What an incredible experience! I can’t really give a very good review because I’ve only one projector to base it on-this one!

Put it this way-when Mrs Chinaclipper came down to take a look at my bequest, she about tripped on her jaw!

Glad to see you're making progress, and congrats on your new toy - that one is tempting - my top contender so far is the Mitsubishi HC5000, but waiting to see if it will have enough lamp to go as big as I'd like to go - I'd love to have 1080 + big, but may have to make a choice, we'll see - the AX100U is tempting because of the light output.

Oh yeah, I still need to get my permit too - maybe tomorrow I'll throw together a plan and drop it off / pay the fees.

Tom,
Your theater build looks great. Thanks for taking the time to post your progress. Are you about ready for drywall? -- Oh the fun!

- Scott

Scott, thanks for the nice words...You made it work! Many thanks for that one!
If anyone is thinking about using these in-ceiling lights and thinks they might need the boxes, I HIGHLY recommend checking Scott's method. Very well done.

I finally got the cans in the ceiling up and they are working fine. Love those little push connectors. I "enhanced" them a bit and added some "sound dampning" so they wouldn't vibrate or buzz.

Next project is insulation. I am going with R-13 on the concrete (foundation) walls, and R-15 on the inside walls. I am thinking about R-19 (8.5") for the ceiling.

Big bro came in for the Texas-Nebraska Football game-(Go Big Red!) and he just RAVES about the "Theater-like quality" of the DVD's (with a 480p, no less;) ) and just about lost it when he saw the Thursday night college game in HDTV, 106" projection TV on a 4x8' drywall sheet!

Oh, BTW, had a nice surprise when I came home Thursday afternoon, the Fed-Ex guy had left me a long, long 98" long and narrow package! Yup, my SMX screem material is finally here!

So, many many things to do, probably about 2 weeks away from drywall (how these things grind, huh) maybe next week when the Husker football team is away ...Pictures to follow!

Tom
Chinaclipper

Big bro helped (paid his keep!) ;) this weekend by helping installing the insulation. We got most of two walls, I will finish the rest this week.

We decided to go with the inside stapling vs the staple to the stud face. Not really sure why, but there you have it.

Here is some of the work pictures (http://tomdufresne.com/v-web/gallery/album10)

All and all it went pretty good. I can start to smelll drywall. A couple of musings-
1) Where will I store all this drywall?
2) I am almost sure I am getting someone (pro) to do mudding and taping of the ceiling. I THINK I can cover any visual aberrations with the acoustical treatments, but the ceiling is, well, the ceiling...

Best,
Tom
Chinaclipper

1) Where will I store all this drywall?

Are you just drywalling your room, or for the whole basement? They started drywalling my basement this weekend, and they just stacked all the drywall in each room that was the drywall was for. Some places that had it laying up against the wall, others it was stacked on the floor.

If you can find someone to do the mudding and taping, you may want to go that route. They seem to work pretty quick, and do a much better job than I thought was possible. If you want to try it yourself, since you are doing two layers, you'll have one layer to practice mudding on ;-)

Oh, and don't underestimate the amount of dust that you will get. It looks like it snowed in my basement. Good times.

Are you just drywalling your room, or for the whole basement? They started drywalling my basement this weekend, and they just stacked all the drywall in each room that was the drywall was for. Some places that had it laying up against the wall, others it was stacked on the floor.
Good times.
I am just doing the one room for the theater. Not too much room in the other rooms, but I guess I could stack some in the "bunker" supply room. ;)

Best,
Chinaclipper

It should all fit in your HT room. They fit both layers in my HT room without a problem. Just had it stacked on the floor away from the walls. It will be easier to work with if it is right there. Didn't seem to be that big of a problem to work around either. You end up using the stacks to stand on to reach the ceiling easier ;-)

Well, I am almost done with insulation.... One more wall and then DRYWALL baby!

I hope I can get a few people to help me out---mostly to help me move 50 pieces of drywall into my basement.

Something tells me HD won't be able to make that move!
Stay tuned for more!


Tom
Chinaclipper

Where are you getting your drywall from? We got ours from a drywall supply place, and they delivered and carried it all into the basement. I think delivery was $150-$200. 4'x12' pieces of 5/8"s are not so easy to move around.

Aaron, I will check out the box stores, and maybe the local supply houses to see if they will load the DW into the garage/basement. Whew! Not looking foward to that day! :(
Link to newest pictures! (http://tomdufresne.com/v-web/gallery/album10)

I was able to continue to work on the insulation-wow! this thing is taking more time than I had planned! (sound familiar?) Then I find I should probably "seal off" the other room from the HT-The builders originally just built to the joists, and never "sealed" the rooms from one and another, so I got to do that this week. I am going to use double drywall "plugs" and GG, and then acoustical caulk. It should do what I need. Then I can finish the ceiling insulation.

I had to remove the duct in my equipment room so I can drill a hole in the wall for the PJ cables. I will use a flex duct for the cable conduit, probably around 3". I may just re-route this duct into the HT, and make another duct for the E-room from an overhead duct already in place.

I also decided to install a "split" power supply for my PJ- I will use a USP so if the power goes I won't lose the bulb, and I will have good clean power to the PJ. No major worries, but I thought I'd rqther do it now then wait and wish I would have done it!

How did that guy do this in like two weeks?!?!?!

Tom
Chinaclipper

Hey Tom,

When I bought my drywall, I too wanted someone else to move it down to the basement. Millard Drywall would do that but their delivery fee, coupled with their drywall price, wasn't the best deal. So, I ended up getting my drywall through HD and having them deliver it. Then I hired "Two Men and a Truck" to come move it from my driveway to the basement. Their fee was around $200 (Best $200 ever spent).

Dan

I'm not an authority on the French language, but I think the name of your theatre should be "le" Cinema Rockhurst, not "la", I thought I'd mention it before you go invest in any signage or anything ;)

oh yeah and there's an accent on the e in cinema...

and if I'm wrong then C'est la vie

When HD delivered my drywall they used a fork-lift and placed the drywall outside my basement patio doors. Was not too bad moving the boards into the basement from their.

So if you have access from the road to a walk-out might be worth asking driver (with some green in your hands) if he can place the dywall there.

Cheers,
Mark

I'm not an authority on the French language, but I think the name of your theatre should be "le" Cinema Rockhurst, not "la", I thought I'd mention it before you go invest in any signage or anything ;)

oh yeah and there's an accent on the e in cinema...

and if I'm wrong then C'est la vie

Unless perhaps its meant to be Spanish or Italian

I'm not an authority on the French language, but I think the name of your theatre should be "le" Cinema Rockhurst, not "la", I thought I'd mention it before you go invest in any signage or anything ;)

oh yeah and there's an accent on the e in cinema...

and if I'm wrong then C'est la vie

Thanks Almostgoth. I hope I got the accent right!
Unfortunately I don't know how to change the thread title!!

Will check with all the suggestions.... may just ask some guys over to "watch a movie" and then pop the old "oh by the way, before we watch the movie...." thing on 'em. I suppose a few adult beverages afterwards may help too! ;)
Tom
Chinaclipper

Well, I have almost finished the insulation. Whoever said that was going to be easy?!?!?!

I also finished my conduit from the PJ to the equipment room/lobby. I used 2" conduit. I intend to run VGA, components, HDMI, CAT5,etc through it.

Next big step is to place furring strips on ceiling and walls. Then,.......

DRYWALL!!!

Almost there! I feel like if I can get this drywall thing going (and do it right) I can do almost everything else. (He said "almost"---I still plan on someone else doing the final mud/tape for the ceiling :) )

Happy Thanksgiving!!
Tom
Chinaclipper

Still moving, albeit somewhat s-l-o-w. It's tough when you can only work on the HT occasionally instead of days at a time!

I finshed all insulation inside, ceilings, ductwork spaces, its all done. I HATE insulation! argh....

Started last night with the furring strips. I am using 1x3 strips, screwed and glued perpendicular to the joists at 24" on center. I will the start the ceiling drywall hopefully this Saturday, before the Huskers are on TV.

I did wonder a bit about directions. I have a 12' 9" x 19"7" ceiling, and I am going to do the first layer (5/8th") perpendicular (longwise) to the furring strips, and the second layer (1/2") parallel (longwise) to the furring strips. My reasoning is the first layer is heavier, and will benefit from more fasteners per inch then the outer layer, and the outer layer will have less "butt joints" this way. Am I correct?

I will try to stagger the butt joints as much as possible.

Starting to get excited, I think I will ask HD to deliver the 5/8" DW Friday or so.

Best,
Tom
Chinaclipper

I didn't get to do the furring strips, but regardless, we ran the outer layer lengthwise to reduce the number of joints to mud. We used 4x12 sheets, and did the first layer across the room, and the 2nd layer from front to back. For the walls, we did the first layer vertical, and the 2nd layer horizontal.

Thanks Aaron!

I got somewhat sidetracked this W/E-Dad isn't doing too well, so I decided I needed to spend some time with him out in California.

Somethings are just more important!!

I did finish the furring strips last w/e, so I hope to be doing the drywall dance this w/e.

I will put some pics up also this w/e, just for kicks....
BTW, too bad about those Huskers, huh? :(
Tom

Chinaclipper

...and I am stoked. It went very well, I thought. I FINALLY got to begin drywalling!

I put liquid nails on the furring strips, then screwed the bad boys in place! A few lessons learned.

1) The lipstick thing for location of where to cut boxes etc works well
2) Lipstick is very messy
3) You do NOT get a whole lot of lipstick in those little tubes
4) Lipstick is hard to get off your work gloves
5) It's hard explaining to the cashier that you want to get 3 tubes of the cheapest reddest lipstick you have (CVS had 'em for $.99)
I put the latest pics on the web. See them here (http://tomdufresne.com/v-web/gallery/album11)

The drywall panel jack is priceless. So too is strong graduate assistants to help you! I had both.

Next I will back rod and caulk spaces, then eventually tape and mud. Since it is a first layer, looks mean nothing here. I want to make sure I do NOT get too much caulk or mud in the seams, because that might compromise the GG and second layer.

I need to put the vestibule ceiling up, then the vestibule wall, then I will do the theater walls. Theater walls and ceiling 1st layer is 5/8ths. Next will be 1/2" drywall.

It's starting to look like its moving now!
Happy Christmas and Happy New Year to all,
Tom
Chinaclipper

Congrats on getting the first layer of the ceiling hung! It looks really good.

The lipstick looks like a good idea. I suspect you could use that colored chalk that they use to snap lines with as well. The guys that hung my rock just used their measuring tape, marked a spot in the center of the cutout, and rotozipped away. That made for a huge mess, and a couple of cuts in my wires.

So why the large square cutouts around the can lights?

China,

Lookin' great! Tiny tip....When you mark the boxes with lipstick, just do the corners. That'll same you some lipstick, and mess.

Dan

Congrats on getting the first layer of the ceiling hung! It looks really good.

The lipstick looks like a good idea. I suspect you could use that colored chalk that they use to snap lines with as well. The guys that hung my rock just used their measuring tape, marked a spot in the center of the cutout, and rotozipped away. That made for a huge mess, and a couple of cuts in my wires.

So why the large square cutouts around the can lights?

ah shucks, you noticed that huh? Here is a diagram of the plan (http://tomdufresne.com/v-web/gallery/album05/chinaclipper_hang0001) I used...
You can see I placed the lights in a "sound-proof" box. The design and depth of he box was just enough that I couldn't completely cover with the first layer. The design was great, and I had already cut all the pieces and besides, it wouldn't have fit my lights if I made them smaller or shallower.
Naturally effort will be made to retain my "sound proofness"-- I will be using lots of acoustical caulk, even some acoustical putty (looks like firestop putty) to seal any potential leaks. ;)

The next layer of drywall will completely cover the square area, and all that will be "sticking out" will be the light area opening.
The design allowed me to mount the box on 1x1" wood rails, and also was compatible with the furring strips idea.

I am toying with the idea of covering the area before I drywall the second layer with some other covering, but I remember how heavy those sound-proof boxes were when I built 'em; rather like little tanks!!

China,

Lookin' great! Tiny tip....When you mark the boxes with lipstick, just do the corners. That'll save you some lipstick, and mess.

Dan



Thanks for the questions and Dan, thanks for the tips. I KNEW there had to be a better (and less messier!) way!

Tom
Chinaclipper

My one pseudo regret right now is not doing the light boxes. I can definitely hear stuff through my ceiling, and I think my weak link right now is the can lights. I am going to see how it is once the trim is put up, and see if it is enough to bother me. If so, I'll likely try using the acoustical caulk around the edges of the cans (if this is safe).

I would definitely put some sort of material over the exposed part though and try to get it as flush as possible to the surrounding drywall. This will make the Green Glue happy.

My one pseudo regret right now is not doing the light boxes. I can definitely hear stuff through my ceiling, and I think my weak link right now is the can lights. I am going to see how it is once the trim is put up, and see if it is enough to bother me. If so, I'll likely try using the acoustical caulk around the edges of the cans (if this is safe).

I would definitely put some sort of material over the exposed part though and try to get it as flush as possible to the surrounding drywall. This will make the Green Glue happy.
Roger all that Aaron, and thanks again for the heads up-
will comply!

Best to you and your build!
Tom
CHinaclipper

Tom,
Congrats on starting the drywall. That is a big milestone!

Your light boxes look great. I'm sure you will be happy with them. I am constantly amazed at how quiet my theater/basement is with the light boxes and double drywall/greenglue/RSIC combination.

Keep up the good work!

- Scott

Well, I decided to try and drywall the ceiling of the vestibule on Thursday. Alone.
It was do-able. The panel jack did'nt fit, and all the students when home for the holidays, so there ya have it.

I used 1/2" drywall for the ceiling, and did it in 37" sections that preserved both sides of the drywall for better joints. It took 3 sections of 48" and then a small 10" section for the entie ceiling.

Cutouts for the PJ cables, the A/C vent, and the lights was a bugger, but again, do-able.
I wanted to finish the vestibule drywall today, then take a break for Christmas Eve day and Christmas, but my help had to go to a funeral today.
Maybe I'll do some tomorrow, then take off for a day or so.

Instead, today I wired up the old plate for my speakers. Go here to see set up (http://tomdufresne.com/v-web/gallery/album13) I used a commercial plate, mounted it to my 8x8 box, and then connected all the wires. The connection from the speaker plate to the wires to the receiver will be banana plugs. The wires from the receiver side will be whatever-I haven't decide yet...

Happy Christmas to all!
Tom
Chinaclipper

Well, I finished the wall furring strips-all but the back wall-yesterday. I can't believe how much busy work I have been putting in on this HT. Talk about busy work! I never would have guessed these darn strips take so much time! Of course, they would get in much faster if I had some help! It ain't easy doing this stuff solo!

Anyway, I have included some pics here (http://tomdufresne.com/v-web/gallery/album11/furring_060001) to give an idea of what I did. I spaced the precursory 24", and also since my ceiling is only 7 feet, just halved the bottom one, and gave a bit more spacing on that second to the lowest strip.

For those doing the furring strips-make SURE you don't forget to add things like space of ceiling drywall, and make sure your strips "align" with all those little details/edges of drywall we sometimes forget!

I DID finish the rough (1st) stage of the vestibule-It looks pretty good! A couple more plates to install there- I need a plate for my internet CAT5 and my digital cable, and also one for the remote sensor IR cable.

Well, maybe next week I can get that first layer of drywall on my walls <sigh>
More busy work, here I come!!
Tom
CHinaclipper

...and was it a pain! Had to load, then unload three times before I got it down into the basement! I finally got it though, all 21 sheets for the first layer on the walls. (http://tomdufresne.com/v-web/gallery/album11/IMG_7040) Now all I have to do is put it up. Sounds like another long weekend, huh? Boy, if I could just "rent a helper" or something like that I think I could make better time...

Oh well, live and learn, huh?
Thanks for following my journey...
Tom
Chinaclipper

Well, I saw my first post looking for my thread, and I noticed I started 7/13/06. I guess that means I am at my 6 month anniversary, huh? I never would have guessed it would take so long!

Today I finally finished the first layer of 5/8th drywall. My nephew was a great help, as was "the boss" (She who must be obeyed) (http://tomdufresne.com/v-web/gallery/album11/IMG_7041) . She kept me going until the nephew showed up, and always had lots of Gator-aid made up and brought down to us. She is a great "support staff"!

I had about four sheets left, and several (SEVERAL!) 1/2, 1/4. 3/4th pieces. I will probably put them upstairs and eventully throw 'em out. :(

Next step, mud and tape, then get ready for the NEXT layer. I think that one will be less harder to manage anyway, it will be 1/2", with a layers of green glue between the two.

Oh boy! I can hardly wait to be drenched in GG! That stuff is HARD to wash off!
Thanks for listening, stand bye!

Tom
Chinaclipper

Awesome, glad to hear things are coming along. I was amazed at the amount of scraps that was left over from the drywalling. They planned it out pretty good though, as we only had one full sheet of 5/8ths left. I'll likely put it up on one of the walls in the unfinished area. I also kept a few of the larger scraps to use for the inevitable patch job.

We didn't bother taping the first layer, just put mud in the seams. I used USG Acoustical Sealant where the walls meet. Then again, if you need the practice...

I can also attest to the mess that the GG can make. I did pretty good to keep it off of me until one of the tubes exploded (the bottom part pushed through). That caulk gun will never be the same.

Good luck, and you are due for some pictures!

Looking good Tom! I am not looking forward to the drywall part, as you said "what a pain".
I am sure you finally see it as a "room" instead of just a bunch of stick walls.

I was curious about the furring strips you used on the wall and ceiling. Was this for acoustic purposes, or because the ceiling wasn't straight?

I was planning just to attach the drywall directly to the studs and joists... I still have to time to rethink if I have to.

Thanks,
Judson

Looking good Tom! I am not looking forward to the drywall part, as you said "what a pain".
I am sure you finally see it as a "room" instead of just a bunch of stick walls.

I was curious about the furring strips you used on the wall and ceiling. Was this for acoustic purposes, or because the ceiling wasn't straight?

I was planning just to attach the drywall directly to the studs and joists... I still have to time to rethink if I have to.

Thanks,
Judson
Everybody over there at the GREEN GLUE website says the better joist/stud space is 24 inches. Barring that, they directed me to use the furring strips spaced at 24 inches. Supposedly it reduces the amount of contact area of the drywall to joist.

Brian Ravenas (sp?) assured me I could get very decent sound modulation with the room built with 2 layers of drywall, GG in-beween, and the use of the furring strips at 24" centers.

The trick is to remember where the strips are located when drywalling! I measured, and also used plumb bobs and lines on the floor to make sure I am screwing the drywall to the 1x3" furring strips! Loads o' fun...
Best,
Tom
Chinaclipper

Whew, your right, that does seem like a ton of work. Not that I mind that, but I don't really care about how many joists are touching the drywall. No green glue or double drywall here. Just plain old walls...
Can't wait to see what's next at your place!

I am thinking of using some of this sound proofing green tape on my stud walls. This may work for you as well.

http://www.soundproofing.org/infopages/Tape.htm

I was also told to keep my new framing 1 inch away from the concrete walls to create a room within a room without using staggered studs. This will also prevent moisture and mold issues.

Well, I just finished putting up the guides for the second layer of drywall.
Let me explain-When you use furring strips, you must ID the edges of the strips so you can make sure the second layer of screws hits the strip, and not just empty spaces. Here is a link to show how I did it. (http://tomdufresne.com/v-web/gallery/album11/missouri_070006)

I did make all strips on 24" center, respecting the fact that the layers of drywall somewhat "moves" where the strips have to be. It's hard to explain, but suffice it is to say I have been stressing about it for about 2 months. ;)

Hopefully I will get to put up the second layer ceiling Saturday, maybe earlier, depends on the help available and the drywall and lifter purchase/rental.
Super bowl party? Maybe, but it will still be a bit dusty!

Tom
Chinaclipper

Originally Posted by aaron_hinni
My one pseudo regret right now is not doing the light boxes. I can definitely hear stuff through my ceiling, and I think my weak link right now is the can lights. I am going to see how it is once the trim is put up, and see if it is enough to bother me. If so, I'll likely try using the acoustical caulk around the edges of the cans (if this is safe).

I would definitely put some sort of material over the exposed part though and try to get it as flush as possible to the surrounding drywall. This will make the Green Glue happy.

Aaron, good idea indeed! (http://tomdufresne.com/v-web/gallery/album11/theater0004)
Well, this is what I did last night. Got a hold of some 1/4" --yes-- 1/4" drywall and cut to fit, glued and nailed in place.

I then got the old drywall filler and sealed up any gaps or holes. (After I acoustically caulked everything, of course) With a bit of luck I may get the second layer of ceiling up this weekend, just in time for the Super Bowl.
Tom
Chinaclipper

Well, I just got rid of a big stressor in my HT building life. I finally got the second ceiling layer up. Not without any problems, but too little to mention:)

It is up! I had some of my students come over and help (what a low life, huh? Making my students work! I paid them well. OK lunch and dinner. :)
Here are a few pics (http://tomdufresne.com/v-web/gallery/album11/drywall_070001)
The green glue was no major problem other than a serious forearm and hand cramping problem from pumping that darn caulking gun, and a stiff neck.

Next major job will be to finish the walls, and then think about either me doing the ceiling mud and tape, or paying someone else. Option two is looking good right now.
I can do the walls-they're hidden with acoustical improvements. But I'd like the ceiling to look nice.

I am planning on a light texture pattern, and the blue ceiling paint I have seen on DE inspired HT's. I like the look.

Until next update,
Tom
Chinaclipper

Tom,

Loved the drywall pics (http://tomdufresne.com/v-web/gallery/album11/drywall_070006). I've heard that green glue is nasty, but I have never seen anyone using the "bioterror protection suits" before. It would have been funny to greet your students at the door wearing that white suit, an inhaler, and a surgical cap. Their reaction would have been priceless. "Um...sir, I thought we were hanging drywall" :D

Next major job will be to finish the walls, and then think about either me doing the ceiling mud and tape, or paying someone else. Option two is looking good right now.
I can do the walls-they're hidden with acoustical improvements. But I'd like the ceiling to look nice.

Nice progress - if I were to do my room again I would hire out taping/muding. Was by far the worse part of the entire build and I still notice the imperfections (guest don't but maybe they are being polite).

Cheers,
Mark

Drywall looks nice. It might have been easier on your wrists by applying the GG while the drywall was laying on the floor... then put it on the lift.

The mudding, taping and sanding is a nasty job. The pros make it look really easy though. You should at least get a quote or two to get a feel for how much you can get it done for.

Was by far the worse part of the entire build and I still notice the imperfections (guest don't but maybe they are being polite).

Mark, I suspect people are in awe of everything else in your room, and aren't going to notice those tiny imperfections. You notice them because you put them there, and know where to look ;-)

Tom,

Loved the drywall pics (http://tomdufresne.com/v-web/gallery/album11/drywall_070006). I've heard that green glue is nasty, but I have never seen anyone using the "bioterror protection suits" before. It would have been funny to greet your students at the door wearing that white suit, an inhaler, and a surgical cap. Their reaction would have been priceless. "Um...sir, I thought we were hanging drywall" :D
hehehe Well, with all I have been reading about green glue and how its hard to remove, I figured the $8 suits were worth it!

hehe They were ;)
Tom

Drywall looks nice. It might have been easier on your wrists by applying the GG while the drywall was laying on the floor... then put it on the lift.

Roger that Aaron. This I learned about 2 minutes after this picture was taken! We used the old sawhorse routine and I got a few million more pumps from the old caulking gun. :)

I did some minor sanding taping etc on the first layer and my projector/equipment room, so I am ready to see what the tradesmen who do these things for a living will charge. whew!

I figure I'll do the walls myself or maybe not, again, depending on what the prices.
I just wondered how willing someone will be to do such a small job!

Tom
Chinaclipper

Well, nothing new to report :( I have been busy with work and HT things have unfortunately slowed.

Hopefully the next job will be installing wall sconce backing plates (6), then sealing first layer floor drywall edges with acoustical caulk, then putting up second drywall layer on the walls.

This weekend doesn't look good, maybe the next one?

I will do my best!
Tom
Chinaclipper

That's right, I finally got all the drywall hung! I took last Saturday and Sammi and I took about 12 hours, but it's all up.
Here are some shots of the last layer being installed (http://tomdufresne.com/v-web/gallery/album11/theater_070001)
I will fill cracks, patch holes/gaps, and then a quick mud/tape should complete the drywall.
I think I am going to see if I can get someone to do the ceiling. I want the only drywall to be seen to look good, and I don't know if my skills can meet that goal. :) I am seriously considering getting a "textured" ceiling installed, the spraygun, the whole thing you know.

This Saturday, I plan on working on the risers and stage, maybe even actually getting some lumber on the floor.

I have the electrical all roughed in, I will need to order GOM pretty soon too, as well as Lincoustics and Polyfill for the wall treatments.

Still need to get rid of a LOT of extra drywall, too bad they don't take the unused portions back, huh?
Well, I guess I'll have to call my garbage guy and get a special load moved. They tell me drywall is considered a "hazardous material". Wow...
Keeping you posted, thanks for watching,
Tom
Chinaclipper

Some funny photos there. :) Good for you for taking on what can be a tough project.

So today I had a guy come in and finish my ceilings. (Tape, mud, and texture) I just didn't want to do that project!

I am looking at my stage and risers built-the Acoustik Mat underlay is just too expensive to justify at this time. I am going to use the double layer 30# roofing felt for the dampner, and do intend to use the GG/plywood/OSB sandwich.

Loads of fun, huh? Hopefully I can seal all cracks and drywall spaces between floors this week, then maybe even get to stage building this Saturday.

Ordered the Linacoustic RC duct liner from a nice guy in Omaha;will pick that up Wednesday. I will get someone with a table saw who can rip some 2x8's into 1" furring strips. Also will need to order polyester batting and I guess GOM fabric.

We decided to go with the dark Burgundy top, black bottom. It will, along with some nice old brass sconces and tarnished gold moldings, give us the "old theater flair" we are looking to create (at least minimally! :))

Here we go!
Best,
Tom
Chinaclipper

The worker finished my ceiling (http://tomdufresne.com/v-web/gallery/album11/HT_ceiling_001) today, and I was so pleased. I could put up the drywall, but the finish was the tough one. He did a great job, pictures don't do it justice. This was one job I was glad I didn't tackle. I wanted the ceilings to look nice, and they do.

Now it's time to get ready to build the stage.

Best,
Tom
Chinaclipper

Oh goodie! Let the fun begin... Keep up the great work Tom, you are getting there!

I love pics with dust on the lens. There's nothing like a home theater under construction.

Good luck, keep the updates coming!

Richard

Sammi and I finished stage framing yesterday. It worked pretty well!
I used a stage design found here on the forum, dimensions roughly 154"x 44", with a nice arc for the stage in front. Here is the link (http://tomdufresne.com/v-web/gallery/album14) to some pictures.

We used a 1x4x12' board for the curve, making sure to wet it and then screwed and glued it with 3" screws and Gorilla Glue. Man that stuff IS really strong!

Hopefully I will get to sand fill, then cover the top as per DE stage designs this week.

After this next weekend, I should be able to start the risers, huh?

It seems to be moving pretty fast now, got the poly batting ordered and next will need to order some GOM.
Best,
Tom
Chinaclipper

I finshed putting sand in my stage frame this weekend. 30 bags of sand at 50# each-That's a lot of sand! I did this one all by myself Here are some shots (http://tomdufresne.com/v-web/gallery/album14?page=2)
I also put my equipment room lights up last week, it does brighten things up.
I got my poly batten in-looks a bit thinner than the 1" I ordered, I'll see how it works I guess.

Next big job will be to get the ceiling painted before I start putting furring strips for the GOM. I am looking for Milano Blue. Is that brand name, or a formula, or what?

I did order the GOM fabric today, almost 40 yards!

Wow, we are moving now. Maybe I will get to paint the ceiling this weekend.
Best,
Tom
Chinaclipper

Only reference I could find is to Duron's Milano Blue from an interior decorator's site but I can't find it on Duron's site. Similar to this would be Atmospheric 6505 as per the same site.

http://www.duron.com/services/architects_designers/color_spaces/duronColor/search.asp?row_id=33&group_id=4

Richard

Only reference I could find is to Duron's Milano Blue from an interior decorator's site but I can't find it on Duron's site. Similar to this would be Atmospheric 6505 as per the same site.

http://www.duron.com/services/architects_designers/color_spaces/duronColor/search.asp?row_id=33&group_id=4

Richard
Thanks Richard. I did do a search and came up with this (http://archive2.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=533562)
It is a hidden/buried/expired link so it was kind of hard to find. They allude to Olympic and Sherwin Williams paint. I will see what I can come up with!
Best,
Tom
Chinaclipper

The link I sent you for the Atmospheric is the same number for Sherwin Williams Atmosphere 6505. You can use that if you want.

Richard

Well, I finally found the paint I was looking for at Sherwin Williams. I didn't even have to go to Omaha!
The guy there was really cool, and made up a batch then and there, following the formula according to link I referred to a few posts ago. FB!
Here are some shots (http://tomdufresne.com/v-web/gallery/album07/image0_1)

Funny story: as I was coming home , I opened the car door and the can fell out! Naturally it was the top final coat and not the cheaper primer coat! :eek: I lost about 1/2 quart. Thank goodness it was water based. I got an extra quart so I hope I'm OK.

Had a nice sky blue colored driveway for a few minutes, though.

I also had them lightly (25%) tint the primer. Someone suggested that this may give a bit better coverage when I lay on the final coat. I hope one gallon will be enough-the fella said most paints, a gallon will cover 200-300 sq feet. I told him this was a "textured" ceiling, 13x20 feet (260 square ft) but he thought with the primer I'd be OK.

I hope so, at least I have the formula now. ;)

Anyway, finish the stage, do a little painting, hopefully get to the risers maybe this weekend?

Best,
Tom
Chinaclipper

Go man, GO!

Richard

..and thanks for being the only one besides me to read my journal. :0

I finally decided it was time to get off the fence, and I pulled the trigger on my frame for my screen. I am planning on a DIY 120" diagonal SMX screen. My "money seats" are 13.5 feet from the screen, so I may be a bit large, but better be a bit large.......

I ordered the frames from Utrecht, and, yes, got hosed with shipping. :mad: From what I have read, it was to be expected. Is it just me, or do you just HATE to pay more for shipping then the entire price of the order!!:eek:

I got the 114" and 48" sizes, with double corner bars and "stretcher keys" things. I do NOT want to have to do this again. I may toy with a method of "masking" for 4:3 and 16:9 aspect films/HD. I have 12 yards of black Fidelio velvet around here somewhere. We'll see how the finances (and the boss's patience) holds out.

I want a 110" x 46" 2:39 to 1 aspect ratio screen, diagonal 120" so I figure with 2" give or take for a border and what not I should be OK.

I intend to try the "staple to the front not the back" method, the velcro method seems somewhat temporary to me.

I have heard good things about Rubens' SMX screen, I hope it does better than my old painted piece of 4x8' drywall ;)

Best,
Tom
Chinaclipper

Should be an interesting build. Let me know what you think of the fabric. I personally don't mind screens that are bigger that seating calculations allow for.

What lens are you going to use for constant height? And which scaler?

Richard

Should be an interesting build. Let me know what you think of the fabric. I personally don't mind screens that are bigger that seating calculations allow for.

What lens are you going to use for constant height? And which scaler?

Richard
Indeed, I sure will ;)

I am using the new Panasonic AX100 projector, which can scale, and I am going to start with the ol' "poor man's" 2:35:1 zoom format.

Ultimately I will be looking very closely at the "CAVX" DIY panamorphic lens, a lens that uses trophy crystal "wedges" for the lens prisms. Looks very promising. Other choices include the U85 by Panamorph. That one seems to be a good deal indeed; everytime I look it seems to be dropping in price. I just looked and it is advertised for $695. (NB-now it's $495!!! Wow!!! :D )
Stay tuned!

Best,
Tom
Chinaclipper

Hey! There are a few other folks following your progress Tom. Some of us just aren't a chatty as others. ;)

Anywho, I hope you ended up with enough paint. I tend to get at least 1/2 gallon extra anytime I add a color to the house. That way I know I'll still have some touch-up paint should I even need to do a repair.

Made lots of good progress this last weekend. The ladies had a home meet on Friday night, so I had all day Saturday to work. Somewhat of a rarity for me this time of the year! ;)

First I finished the final coat on the ceiling. Really loved the look. I love this Milano Blue color (http://tomdufresne.com/v-web/gallery/album07/IMG_8246)
Also I mounted the Panasonic AX100UA finally. :D I was worried I'd have problems, but my diligence paid off, and I was able to mount it with 4 lag screws screwed into some thick furring strips I buried a long long time ago (it seems) under two layers of drywall. (http://tomdufresne.com/v-web/gallery/album05/image6) Here is the mount "in vitro".Check it out here. (http://tomdufresne.com/v-web/gallery/album09/IMG_8240)

Also, I was able to complete the stage! I did it with three layers of plywood, 3/4"-5/8"-3/4" with GG in between layers. That is one solid mother. :p Here (http://tomdufresne.com/v-web/gallery/album14/IMG_8121) is the start of a series of photos that explains a bit better. At the suggestions of some here in the forum, I will obtain a power sander and a router and sand and then round the corners of the nice arc, to make the carpet guys job easier. :)

Next I plan on building the riser, maybe Sunday? or whatever, gonna be busy again next week, but it will be soon.

I plan on a 4-5 seat riser, with "stadium seating" seats. I will try to get it about 7 1/2" tall, no more, because then I'd have to make a separate step. The riser will have some outlets, a small "night light" for a mini-step, and outlets for butt-kickers and other low voltage tech stuff.

Thanks for following along with me,

Best,
Tom
Chinaclipper

Tom,

I just went through your riser construction photo album. Great job documenting each step of the stage construction. Once I get there, I'll be using your journal as a guide. Been hanging out here for a year and it's the first time I'm seen that string/chalk technique. Sure makes getting a consistent radius simple.

Anyway, keep up the good work. I'm looking forward to seeing more photos as your work continues.

(cross posted on Acoustical treatments-this forum ;) )

...I have all the pieces, the Lincoustics, the poly batting, and the furring strips, etc.

I have 84" high ceilings.

I have heard 1/2 way up from floor is Lincoustic, remainder is poly batting.

Question: I am rather tall, can I extend the lincoustic to 48 inches? Remainder finished with poly batting of course.
Reasoning-Lincoustics comes in 48" rolls. one less cut... :)

I plan on putting the chair rail moulding about 1/3 of the distance from floor-ie black GOM lower ~1/3, burgundy GOM ~ upper 2/3.

Question: Will that make the walls look weird if the moulding is not located at the lincoustic/poly batting seam?

Won't the 1" furring strips elimate this weird interface?

Thanks for the advice,
Best,
Tom
Chinaclipper

Tom,

If you sift through the Royal Fortune Theater Thread Jason descibes (with pictures) how he did the linacoustic and batting on the walls. Be careful, he changes his setup after he worked with Bpape. I think he ended up with linacoustic at 55" putting about 12-14" above the firring strip.

Start at about Post #209 Link (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=8999436&&#post8999436)

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r287/jikkjack/Royal%20Fortune/DSC134.jpg

Well, last night I put up almost all of my furring strips around my outlet boxes and sconce boxes. Wow! That's a good workout for the miter saw. I started doing the nice mitered corners, but rapidly discovered that THAT was going nowhere fast. Too much inconsistency in measurements, etc.
Here are some pictures (http://tomdufresne.com/v-web/gallery/album07?page=2) so you can follow along!

Judson, I took your suggestions and have contacted Bryan about some acoustical advice. I figure with all the things I have done, I'd really hate to find out too late that I neglected to do "x" , or I should have done "y" for maximum sound etc.,

I will see what Bryan says and maybe put the treatments on hold until I get some info/advice. Cheap insurance, I'd say! (Don't take that literally Bpape! :)

I have lots of things I can do until then. Still need to finish the final touches on the equipment room, paint my adjacent office, and start making up some electrical boxes. Should keep me busy.

Oh yes, and I am waiting on my screen frame from Ultrecht. Because of their error, they said they'd take 50% off the shipping charges. No small potatoes, since shipping was going to cost me $155, more than the d*mn frame :eek:

When the frame gets here that should give me more than enough work to do, the build will be based on suggestions from SandmanX over at his forum for the SMX screen.

Will post with progress-no meets this weekend so I just MAY get some work done, maybe start the riser?
Best,
Tom
Chinaclipper

Looks like things are really coming along.

It should be worth your while to see what Bryan says. He will take a lot (err all) of the guess work out of what kind of treatments to put up, and where to put them.

So why don't you cancel your frame order and just build one? You should be able to build a nice stable frame cheaper than you are getting that one shipped. I've been looking at the design for that "woody" frame over on the smx forum. Seems like it should be easy enough to do.

cheers,
aaron

Looks like things are really coming along.

It should be worth your while to see what Bryan says. He will take a lot (err all) of the guess work out of what kind of treatments to put up, and where to put them.

So why don't you cancel your frame order and just build one? You should be able to build a nice stable frame cheaper than you are getting that one shipped. I've been looking at the design for that "woody" frame over on the smx forum. Seems like it should be easy enough to do.

cheers,
aaron

Hehehe Thanks Aaron, I hear ya'. The frame was the best way I could see that would work for my screen plan. I liked the idea of using either staples or industrial grade velcro. I liked the wood/aluminium mix these "spreader bars" use-looks stronger then heck. I think for me, it was the best way to go. With the shipping drastically reduced, I don't feel too bad ;)

Best,
Tom

CHinaclipper

You're right, that blue does rock!

Progress is a good thing.

Good job.

Richard

Well, over the last few days I had some good things happen.

1) My screen frame arrived! Glad to have it, finally! (http://tomdufresne.com/v-web/gallery/album15)

2) I drywalled and sanded the LAST wall (http://tomdufresne.com/v-web/gallery/album11/walls_009a) I will have to do for a while

3) I finished all my furring strips for lights/lighting

4) I purchased my Panamorph U85 lens for projector (yes!)

5) Borrowed a good air compressor and stapler. Those acoustical treatment fabrics are tough!

6) Hired a sound consultant for that last (hopefully) and best chance before I seal this thing up. I wanted to "get 'er done" before I started putting up the GOM. In retrospect, I probably should have done it before I started building the whole darn thing, but, hindsight is 20-20, n'est pas?

7) Bought the wood for the riser, and finalized placement and design (http://tomdufresne.com/v-web/gallery/album14/walls_010a).

8) Added another outlet (http://tomdufresne.com/v-web/gallery/album13/walls_008a) for my IR controller.

9) Worked on my speaker placement and design (http://tomdufresne.com/v-web/gallery/album13/walls_012a)

Probably won't have too many updating chances this weekend, the team and I travel to the left coast (Bezerk-ly, California) for our regional gymnastics meet, so I MAY be a bit in-disposed for a few days. ;) Ah well, It could be worse, right? They could be wrestlers! (j/k guys!)

Meanwhile, I await the advice and counsel from Bpape, and will hopefully resume construction weekend after this one-with a few things hopefully popping up to keep me busy until then.

Best,
Tom
Chinaclipper

Have fun w/ the screen frame. I finished building mine over the weekend. The stretching of the screen material and getting the velvet snug around the frame were definitely the most tedious parts. You will be really glad that you have that air compressor and stapler!

Tom,

Sounds like you are getting to the really fun part of the project.

I didn't see what surround speakers you picked out but from the looks of your sketches they are Axiom QS8's.

It amazes me how similar our rooms look. Well, with the exception that yours has drywall and I am still stuffing insulation.

Great job! I bet you can taste it now... I mean the drywall dust (j/k).

Judson

Tom,

Sounds like you are getting to the really fun part of the project.

I didn't see what surround speakers you picked out but from the looks of your sketches they are Axiom QS8's.

It amazes me how similar our rooms look. Well, with the exception that yours has drywall and I am still stuffing insulation.

Great job! I bet you can taste it now... I mean the drywall dust (j/k).

JudsonHehehe Axioms, yes, but the QS4's. A bit less pricey, but still look like pretty good speakers! :)

Yes, now it seems like the only part that is slowing me down is finding the time! Before it was always waiting for this waiting for that, got to buy this, waiting for this to come in-now it's just "when am I going to find the time!

That part should take care of itself in about three weeks-ladies finish up with gymnastics,and I will have a bit more time to spend on "the project" as my wife now calls it.

Insulation! Argh, a dirty word! The only thing I hated more than cutting those darn fiberglass devils is sanding drywall. Oh well, we always seem to forget the nasty parts, eh? I am sure it will all be worth it in he end, and I may lean a few things too!

Best,
Tom
Chinaclipper

So over the weekend, I have ordered and will start with my acoustical treatments hopefully soon. For those who have been following, I engaged Bryan Pape for some sound advice (pun intended) :D and will be following his sage advice and ideas for the acoustical treatments. Pretty substantial changes made, but I think they will really increase the sound quality of le CInema Rockhurst!

I JUST finished the "skeleton" of the risers,you can see the pictures here. (http://tomdufresne.com/v-web/gallery/album14/IMG_8609) I made the spacings 16"OC, and the two interior ones were a bit closer so I could eventually retrofit my "buttkickers"in the cheap seats.

I will need to finish the H/V electrical, then install the conduit for buttkicker wires, extra CAT5 line, and maybe some computer/gaming stuff. (you never know, right)

One other thing, my Panamorph U85 arrived today! I was expecting a heavy beast but this thing only weights 2 pounds. I was surprised.

Only two more major construction projects remain-the columns and then the stage/screen walls and proscenium. Looks like I will depend on the old Onkyo system until finances upgrade, then Axioms here we come.

Again, thanks for your comments and your interest in the ol' project.
Best,
Tom
Chinacliper

Got to rough in my H/V and L/V for the risers tonight.
Here are some pics (http://tomdufresne.com/v-web/gallery/album14/IMG_8611)

Got a 3" PVC pipe (thin walled) for extra CAT5, game cables, whatever. Kind of did a hybrid mix of 3" and 1" "smurf tubing" to direct my butt kicker speaker wires. I still need to put the bases in the risers for my buttkickers. I think I will use a hardwood base.

Also was able to direct my H/V line to the outlet boxes and LED night lights. The light was ordered yesterday from a company online recommended by someone here at AVS.

It is a low power LED downlight that has a horizontal orientation. It will be on all the time as a night light, and if it is too bright during use I can just flip it off with a little toggle switch build in! I thought that was pretty cool.

Well, tomorrow I maybe can work on the bases, then weekend work, dunno. Maybe cover the riser with layers of plywood? Maybe begin work on my screen frame?
We will see what happens. Things sure are going fast now. Yikes!

Best,
Tom
Chinaclipper

Well, tonight I just finished my framing of my new SMX screen.
I think I was pretty nervous at first, that first cut really makes you sweat!
Here is my picture journal of the task. (http://tomdufresne.com/v-web/gallery/album15/IMG_8616)
It took about two hours, soup to nuts, and I am really happy with the outcome. The frame went together flawlessly, and the actual screen cutting wasn't too bad. I used a laser to get nice straight cuts (overkill)

I cut the screen with a standard kitchen scissors.

I used a nice air stapler with 10mm staples. A lot of staples! :)

Because the frame was so big, I think I may need to put in a crossmember brace for tensioning the frame. I used the corner keys, but there is still a bit of center "sag" thats just won't go. No worries!

I will of course next get some moulding and cover it with Fidelio velvet, then make a nice frame boarder. Should make it look real nice, Clark!

I am waiting for my LED light, won't be here until Wednesday, so I will probably have to put the riser on hold until I can get that in and wired. I may cover a few panels... :D

I am now just waiting for Bpace to send me my wall/ceiling treatments-acoustic cotton, FSK paper etc, then I can really get moving. It seems real close now...

Best,

Tom
Chinaclipper

Well I posted the same comment in your photo album.

Thanks for documenting your construction. Your projected image is definately going to look great. I noticed the centre brace showing through the smx. Maybe its just the flash or illusion.

I was building my rack today so back is little sore.

Well, yesterday I finished covering the moldings that frame the rim of the SMX screen.

The Fidelio velvet really lives up to it's reputation;man! That stuff is REALLY BLACK!
It was nice to use an electric scissors to cut the stuff, really glided right thru.The hardest part was the miters on the moldings. I've tried these before and was unsatisfied, this time I really took my time and it seemed to make a difference.
Again-pictures! (http://tomdufresne.com/v-web/gallery/album15/IMG_8634) I can see a little "bleed through" (thanks larora) that is probably the top and bottom frame as well. I will need to cover those in the velvet. I think I can do that retro-actively (fingers crossed) I really don't want to have to pull all those staples and recover! :eek:

All and all I am so far very happy with the results. I will try and get the DVD/HDTV fired up and see if I can get an idea what the images will look like; if it's any consolation the test patterns and PJ menus sure look good;)

This week I will be busy with 2007 NCAA gymnastic Nationals, so work will probably grind to a halt (oh no! Again :( ) My bro will be holding the fort; I told him not to get cute with the projector!!!!

So, again, thanks for following my progress,
Best,
Tom
Chinaclipper

Tom,

Nice job with the velvet on the frame. Your project is coming along nicely.

Cheers
Calvin

Tom,

Nice job with the velvet on the frame. Your project is coming along nicely.

Cheers
Calvin

Thanks Calvin.
Finally got back from the NCAA Women's Gym Finals (We took 6th) and now I hope I can devote some time to the project.

First step: Figure how to deal with 3.5" of acoustical treatment on my screen wall-I planned for 1" :eek:

Second step: make some kind of "rack" to hold the 5" of acoustical treatment on my ceiling in front/back of my AT screen :o

Third: Finish my risers!

Best,
Tom
Chinaclipper

Tom -

Great progress! Awesome to see another 2.35:1 theater build...scope all the way baby! I also have the AX100 and it throws a darn nice image.

Laters,
Jeff

Jeff:
Thanks for the reply. Yes, IMHO, the 2:35+ scope is the only way to go for the HT. I am SO happy with my AX100, with the Panamorph lens (U85) the image is in one word STUNNING. I watched Mad Max on HDTV last night----WoW. :D

Yesterday, I started my treatments. I began with the bass traps. BPAPE has been a great help to me, both on the posts here and as my AT consultant. Well worth the fee.
Here are the photos (http://tomdufresne.com/v-web/gallery/album07/screen_001a) of the doings.

***HINT***
Those who are using the 5" cotton batten for bass traps? Use a very very sharp carving knife to cut. I tried the sharp (brand new) carpet cutter/utility knife. No way. It just "chewed up" the cotton. I even tried my wifes' electric carving knife. Nope. Not that either.

A 6" Henckles carving knife did the trick. (Don't tell the boss!) I cut on my stage surface (no carpet yet) and used very heavy gloves. One small slip could REALLY ruin your day, so take care. I also was sure to sharpen the knife after about every three cuts. It gets dull REALLY quick.

After I cut them out, they stacked really nice with the support "brackets" in place. I screwed the brackets to the furring strips under the 2 layers of drywall, so I think I got a good fix. I will cover with black GOM, and then do the screen wall and then the side wall behind the proscenium.

I was a little thrown at first when BPAPE suggested I use the cotton batting instead of the Linacoustic that I planned for, but it should give me better control of the low frequencies.
****UPDATE**** After working on a friends theater, I got the ultimate idea for cutting this stuff. You use a circular saw! yup!1 A simple circular saw! MAKE SURE YOU REVERSE THE BLADE ON THE SAW Just install it bass-ackwards. It works great, and makes it SO much easier to cut that cotton batting.

I will still use the Linacoustics for the majority of the side walls and the back wall, and of course that will be covered with the lovely GOM fabric.
So, it begins!

Best,
Tom
Chinaclipper

Yesterday, I started my treatments. I began with the bass traps. BPACE has been a great help to me, both on the posts here and as my AT consultant. Well worth the fee.

Hi Tom! If you're talking about Bryan I think you mean BPAPE, not BPACE. I agree, his services are absolutely invaluable when designing your room's sound absorption.

If, however, you're talking about someone else please carry on. :)


-drin

Hi Tom! If you're talking about Bryan I think you mean BPAPE, not BPACE. I agree, his services are absolutely invaluable when designing your room's sound absorption.

If, however, you're talking about someone else please carry on. :)


-drin
OOPS! SRI Bryan!
Edited.....
thanks!
Tom

Well, now I can get a few things done. Today I finished the rack I am using to hold the screen wall treatments,(see here for pics) (http://tomdufresne.com/v-web/gallery/album07/IMG_8846) and got to start the actual loading of the cotton batting. Whew-that stuff is hard to cut. I HATE insulation...

I painted the rack black ( I was worried about bleed-thru) and even painted my speaker outlet panel.

I can now feel like the end is at least "in sight", and I find myself almost relishing each step now. Maybe I subconsiously don't want it to be over?

Well, tomorrow I hope to start GOM on the screen wall, the get started with the side walls, columns, and then oh yeah, finish that riser. :)

Best,
Tom
Chinaclipper

Coming right along Tom. Before you know it, you'll be relaxing and enjoying the fruits of your labors. Sorry I haven't been posting a lot - been absolutely buried - not to mention my daughter graduating in 2 weeks from SMS, getting married in June, wife travelling, and son getting ready for a 2 week charity bike ride in FL.

Bryan

Coming right along Tom. Before you know it, you'll be relaxing and enjoying the fruits of your labors.

Bryan
Thanks Bryan... I am working on it. :)

I finished the area behind the back screen wall (http://tomdufresne.com/v-web/gallery/album07/screen_005a) and will start the actual screen wall itself tonight, I hope.

More flat black paint to cut light reflections, a few more trips to Menards, HD, et al.

A couple of notes to self:

Air compressor staple gun/brad nailer are almost MANDATORY for the DIY'er HT experience.

Push pins are ALMOST as good as a helper when putting up GOM

Plan ahead when putting up GOM-Those air compressors REALLY put the staples in deep... :eek:

I've GOT to find something to do-make-cover with all the GOM scraps...but those Fidelio Velvet scraps are like gold...

Take your rime to do it right the first time.

Just a few. I'm sure they're many MANY more.... Stay tuned, it is getting interesting at le Cinema Rockhurst.

Best,
Tom
Chinaclipper

Last night I started my actual screen wall. (http://tomdufresne.com/v-web/gallery/album15/screen_001a) This is the "frame " that will hold the screen.

I tried to minimize the actual "stage to screen frame" and "ceiling to screen frame" contact. Long story.... you fanatics understand. ;)

I padded the upper and lower frames with 1" poly batting and GOM ( I had to do something with all the poly batting I don't now need) which will allow a "friction fit" to hold the screen and give me a "floating" screen look, and allow for any tolerances or flexing. Sides will also get the padding.

My pictures do show the screen mounted temporarily, and of course, I just HAD to spark up the ol' PJ... Pretty cool :D

BTW, I just can't say enough about the clarity, ease of build, strength, and sharpness of the SMX screen material. When I get a chance to put the speakers behind the screen, I will also comment on that aspect. All I can say now is if you are contemplating an incredible screen material at a very reasonable price consider this option, even if you are NOT interested in its' AT qualities.
Best,
Tom
Chinaclipper

How stable is your screenwall without the top anchored?

I have some extra RSIC clips, maybe that's the solution.

How stable is your screenwall without the top anchored?

I have some extra RSIC clips, maybe that's the solution.

The screen top is anchored at the sides and the outer edges. You have to look closely :)

The screen wall is very stable, and remember the frame of the screen itself is quite "beefy", and "stiffens the resolve" of the whole shebang.

As far as the other issue, ie, the trouble we go through to "decouple" the walls from the stage, then we seemingly loose it when we build the screen walls; well, interestingly enough, this topic seems to come up every now and then, and as another member observed, it never seems to really get a firm solution. (pardon the pun).

I guess we just do what we can, and hope it works. I realized a while ago that everything is done as best as we can afford, and while the devil is in the details, there are some things that well, just don't matter as much!

Good luck with your build,
Best,
Tom
Chinaclipper

Tom - some nice work.

Just watch out you don't leave that screen up or mout the PJ and then progress will sloooooooowwww.

Although I've followed the text of the thread for some time I've been lazy about going off the AVS site to look at the pics. Note to self - stop being lazy. :D

Cheers,
Mark

Tom, I assume you live in the KC area based on the theater name. If I may ask where did you get your sound insulation?

Tom, I assume you live in the KC area based on the theater name. If I may ask where did you get your sound insulation?
Patrick:

Actually I do NOT live in KC area, but a little further north. :)

Here is my source for Linacoustics

Mid-Plains Insulation
14614 Grover Street
Omaha, NE 68144

Phone #: 402-778-9973

Contact: Gary Beresh (Very nice guy)

After a long discussion with myself :) I decided to go with the experts and get some advice before I jumped headlong into it and it was too late. I contracted Bryan Pape with Sensible Sound Solutions (http://sensiblesoundsolutions.com/) and he helped me with some of the front end acoustical treatments as well as the walls. He is also the source of the cotton batting and FSK paper. It was possibly one of best decisions I have made with the HT.
You can replace speakers, PJ's, amps, etc but I do NOT want to have to redo this room!

Best,
Tom
Chinaclipper

Well, finished the riser yesterday. (http://tomdufresne.com/v-web/gallery/album14?page=4) It was good to finally get that thing done.
Now I need to just get it carpeted, put on seats, and hook up the Buttkickers!

It is 7" high;any higher and I would have to build a step-I just didn't want a step.
It will support 4 MAYBE 5 "theater style" seats in a slight arch. The Buttkickers should wake the people up during the dinosaur parts :)

Bro is coming in on Tuesday, I think he wants to see how I have progressed since his last visit in November. Hehehe I have come a "fur piece" since then, I suppose I should hook up the PJ.....<grumble>

He plans on staying with us for a few days, maybe I can get him to help out with some tasks outstanding?

Best,
Tom
Chinaclipper

Well, since bro came in Tuesday, I had to clean up a bit. Put the temp speakers behind the screen, cleaned up the front end (http://tomdufresne.com/v-web/gallery/album15/speakers_012a) , you know the drill.

It was kind of fun doing the speaker leads. (http://tomdufresne.com/v-web/gallery/album13/speakers_008a) I used the banana solder-type speaker wire leads. I made a few of those, it took about an hour to do all the ones I needed, then a few more to test and install.

Also finalized the connections (http://tomdufresne.com/v-web/gallery/album09/speakers_016a) to the Panny;the ceiling outlet, and the HDMI and component connections.

I hope to start the speaker columns soon (http://tomdufresne.com/v-web/gallery/album13/speakers_010a) , and then work on the small details, wrapping the frame, the supports, etc.
Getting closer and closer!
Best,

Tom
Chinaclipper

Started more work on the columns (http://tomdufresne.com/v-web/gallery/album13/speakers_010a) yesterday. I got the MDF at our new Lowes store here in town.

They even did the "precision cuts" I needed. The other box stores always put a sign up near the cutting area "we don't do precision cuts", but Lowes had no problems.

I will be using my front set of column as "dummies"-no speakers there, but I will be using the left front one as a return for my HVAC air return. I had to cut a hole for the vent, and line everything up. A minor pain, but do-able...

Each column (4 total) will also house an electrical 15A outlet. The rears will also house my surround speakers, (R) and (L). I will temporarily locate my upstairs "HTIB" Onkyo speakers in the columns, but they are custom fitted for eventually locating Axiom QS4's.

My rear surround speakers will be flush mounted on the rear walls-I kind of like the look of the black speakers hanging on the back wall. No columns there!

More busy work- Lots of that left over. I can start to see the (?) end of the major work requirements, but still need to choose carpet, and have a friends dad help me with the trim, ie, the "trays" I plan on using to hold my rope lites for up-lighting the ceiling in a nice blue "hue", and the molding trim.

Question-What are recommendations for carpet colors?

I see most people choosing darker colors, but what about stage and riser dark, and a different color for the main floor? I think a few persons here did that...... Just wondered...

Best,
Tom
Chinaclipper

Build a good design for those QS4's. I'll likely be lifting it from you down the road... ;)

Regarding carpet colors. I used all dark colors but I did use three different colors in my theater. the stage is black plush, the riser and steps is a Purple print loop, and the main floor is a dark Blue. the combo is in keeping with the colors in the room.
From all the theaters I have viewed online, I never really like any of the light colors in a theater, I find any light colors to be distracting unless on a wall behind everything, but that is a personal thing.

Regarding carpet colors. I used all dark colors but I did use three different colors in my theater. the stage is black plush, the riser and steps is a Purple print loop, and the main floor is a dark Blue. the combo is in keeping with the colors in the room.
From all the theaters I have viewed online, I never really like any of the light colors in a theater, I find any light colors to be distracting unless on a wall behind everything, but that is a personal thing.

Cool! What about black or dark greys for the riser/stage, and some nice burgundy on the "main floor" to match the upper portion of the walls?

Ideas?

Thanks
Tom
Chinaclipper

That sounds really nice, Black on your stage a perhaps charcol grey on the riser perhaps with a pattern, they do look nice with a pattern and the burgundy on the main floor would pull your colors together and look pretty sharp.

Build a good design for those QS4's. I'll likely be lifting it from you down the road... ;)

Michael:

Thanks!

One word-three letters
ebr (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=7953284&&#post7953284)
He is my main inspiration for my column design.

Best,
Tom
Chinaclipper

That sounds really nice, Black on your stage a perhaps charcoal grey on the riser perhaps with a pattern, they do look nice with a pattern and the burgundy on the main floor would pull your colors together and look pretty sharp.


I like it. :)

I will check with the boss, run it up the flagpole, and see if she salutes it... :D

Tom
Chinaclipper

Well, it looks like suggestions for colors of carpet got the OK-will start looking soon!

Over the long weekend, I had the chance to try my "crown moulding for a light tray" (http://tomdufresne.com/v-web/gallery/album07/IMG_8951) idea. looks like it may work.

I searched for something called "focal point clips" (http://www.focalpointproducts.com/ProductCatalog.asp?action=assoc&assoc_id=8) that supposedly allow you to use a bracket to hang the crown. Couldn't find it. tried an alternative, temporarily of course, and had a chance to mount my sconce (http://tomdufresne.com/v-web/gallery/album07/image0) to see how it would look on the wall.

I noticed a little bit of "bleed thru" from the white background wall/poly batting. This week I will go to the fabric store, buy some cheap black muslin cloth, fire-resist it with wash on product, and use it to back the burgundy GOM.

BPAPE suggested using the muslin cloth, and it sounded like a good idea to me.

I want to finish up with the AT (acoustical treatments) and get other things going-install the Grafix Eye, program the ol' Harmony 890 universal remote, and finalize my SMX screen mount and masking.

Best,
Tom
Chinaclipper

Today and tomorrow, I plan on finishing some details on my columns. (http://tomdufresne.com/v-web/gallery/album13/IMG_8960)

I am adding an oak veneer to the bases-not as detailed as some I have seen, but it should work for me. I will put them in place and finalize when the ATs are finished

I finally got my Harmony Universal Controller and got that going-very nice item BTW, I would recommend it.

I hope to get my fire retardant Monday, and then I can fire treat, finish my acoustical treatments. I now have all the treatments up, just need to cover with FR muslin, then my GOM cloth, then finish the crown moulding, then the panels and proscenium.

After that is done, then I will begin the chore of the finer details, the moulding strips, the carpet, the finalizing of the 3104 Grafix Eye, etc.

Much to do yet, but it is much closer than I was last year at this time!:)

Best,

Tom
Chinaclipper

Hey Tom,

what are you going to fire treat and what are you using to do it?

Some code requirement?

/Anders

Hey Tom,

what are you going to fire treat and what are you using to do it?

Some code requirement?

/Anders

I am going to fire treat my wall treatment "liners". Because of the white drywall "bleed-thru" behind my burgundy GOM, I needed a black muslin "liner" to get rid of the bleed- thru. My sound guru (BPAPE) said it would be OK, and wouldn't affect my sound, but I should "fire treat it" with a fire retardant (http://www.natfire.com/products.html) before I cover it with the GOM.

Code requirement? Well, I didn't want a problem if the inspector guy asks. All the other wall treatments (GOM fabric, Lincoustics and the poly batting) are all fire retardant, why bust the trend?
Best,

Tom
Chinaclipper

Well, I finished five of seven of my wall panels (http://tomdufresne.com/v-web/gallery/album07/IMG_8975), two more to go!

I saved the back panel and the left door panel for last- I am assuming they will give me most problems. Naturally none of the panels have been detailed yet with mouldings, crown or chair blah blah blah.... :o

I have done the front two columns, need to cover the tops with GOM and install. Next I have to construct the speaker columns for the side surrounds-I will use designs used by ebr here on the forum. They will essentially be three piece columns, tops, middles-which will be over the speakers themselves, and bottoms. Bottoms will look much like the front column-ie veneer covered. Middles will have black GOM covering, tops will have either GOM or veneer, I haven't decided yet.

Rear speakers are going to be wall mounted-I actually like that look for the rears, and besides, I don't want to mess with another pair of columns!

My band plays tonight in Comstock (http://www.windmillenterprises.net/windmillfestival/windmillfestival.htm), so no work today or tomorrow-Hopefully I can get some stuff done on the weekend.

Oh yes, BTW, GOM may not be cheap, but it IS necessary for my HT. :cool:

*** Note to self-congrats on getting more than you thought you'd need---because now you need it! :D

Best,

Tom
Chinaclipper

Well, thing are still moving, albeit slowly;but this time, because I am having so much fun I almost feel like I want it to go on longer!
Yup, I could probably finish the whole thing in less than a week now, but I am savoring each job now....

Is that weird, or just me???

This weekend, I installed the last GOM panels (http://tomdufresne.com/v-web/gallery/album07/IMG_9003?full=1) on the back and left side. Very cool indeed. I also installed the Graffix Eye light controller.
That thing is a real kick. The theater is really getting to be a theater now. I HIGHLY recommend this item.

I also covered and installed my front columns (http://tomdufresne.com/v-web/gallery/album07/IMG_9009), and will hook up power outlets and HVAC returns soon. Very fun job, and like I said, I am savoring all the jobs now.

Jobs to be done before I am "finished"
-hook up power outlets in columns
-build rear speaker columns (EBR I'm using your designs-same speakers too!;))
-trim/detail work with mouldings. I MAY put the crown with blue lights on temp hold.
-chose and install carpet (OK OK so the pro will install, I still have to select it.)
-Design/build trim panels for screen wall
-build proscenium
-build ceiling "proscenium" for area above and slightly in front of screen wall. I want small "down lights" here
-install stadium seats
-buy Berkley 088s for my seating-Roman?
-install Buttkickers in riser
--A million other small little jobs.....

So it continues...
Best,
Tom

Chinaclipper

I have got SOME work done....Needed to do some gardening today, but did manage to do something...

I finished the rough ins on the rear speaker columns (http://tomdufresne.com/v-web/gallery/album13/IMG_9018). Now I just need to veneer them, and design the speaker grill part. As stated previously, I plan on using the same format as EBR did for his columns, seems like it may work for me too!

I also "made the boxes" for the two front columns. When I tested them, my meter said "open ground". I was crushed!

I went into debug mode. Seems after I checked wiring for ALL SIX OUTLETS on this run, the front ones were OK so it HAD to be something downstream. Turns out that a temp testing ground connection I had made on the rear speaker column boxes had come loose, and once fixed, all grounds were now FB! Cool!!

So, this weekend will find me working on veneer, and design/build of the speaker grills.
Should be fun...

Best,
Tom
Chinaclipper

Tom

I love that red color gom you chose what is the name & #? Also the black gom looks alot blacker then some I have seen

Tom

I love that red color gom you chose what is the name & #? Also the black gom looks alot blacker then some I have seen

Thanks W00lly!
The red is actually FR701 #556 "Deep Burgundy"
The black is just the ol' favorite #408 "Black"

I got mine from Fabricmate, a company in my old hometown of Ventura, California. I believe he has the best prices I've seen for GOM, and very quick service too.

BTW... I think the black muslin underneath the Deep Burgundy DOES make a big difference in color, especially for photos....

All together, I think I got 50 yards, total. I have lots of black left, and maybe 3-4 yards left of Burgundy. I DO need to make my panels for the screen wall yet, though.

** Tom's TIP: Always buy more than you think you'll need. I guess sometimes colors can be slightly different on each bolt....

Thanks for following the thread...

Best,

Tom
Chinaclipper

I finished the veneering and put the columns in place (http://tomdufresne.com/v-web/gallery/album13/columns_005a).
Now I have to build the speaker grills. I have all the parts and will undertake that task early July.

I went to Lowes, looks like a good place to start for carpet ideas. I will also check the local carpet supply house, compare prices, installations, etc and hopefully get that done by mid-July. Seats next, door, trim, screen panels, <sigh> I'm not there yet, but gettin' there.

Unfortunately, gardens, grass, and honey-do's beckon, and have been neglected lately. So construction will be placed on a temp hold as I address the other- "ahem"-requests of my time.

Not to worry! I will be monitoring the forums.... ;)

Best,
Tom
Chinaclipper

It was nice to have some time off, but back to work we go...

I started the screens awhile ago, and finished them tonight.
Start first by building the "shell (http://tomdufresne.com/v-web/gallery/album13/IMG_9199)" with MDF and some angle iron. I did't do the caulk tape, didn't seem to make a difference to me.
I spray painted them flat black (http://tomdufresne.com/v-web/gallery/album13/IMG_9201) for minimizing bleed through, then covered them tightly with GOM.
Standing alone (http://tomdufresne.com/v-web/gallery/album13/IMG_9207)

I put them in place to see how they looked. I like it (http://tomdufresne.com/v-web/gallery/album13/IMG_9203?full=1)

Afer trial fittings, I fixed them in place (http://tomdufresne.com/v-web/gallery/album13/IMG_9206) and stuffed them with insulation. Did I mention how much I hate insulation?

Like so many projects, the first set took a while, the second screen took about a fifth of the time. Go figure... The design is from EBR's theater page, and I have him to thank for the design.
It looks like it will work great with my Axiom surround speakers when I get them installed.

For now, the old Onkyo's will just have to do.

Best,
Tom
Chinaclipper

Well, no new progress, but I did get both my electrical and general final inspections for permits complete!

Hey! I noticed my FIRST post and my final inspection fell exactly one year apart! Go figure...

I was pretty stoked, as it means I can now stop worring about the inspectors.
They took about two minutes TWO minutes to inspect the whole thing. The general inspector checked my smoke alarm, and said, "OK I'll take care of it" and that was that.

The electrical inspector checked a few outlets with his continuity and polarity gadget, remarked on the size of my screen, :D then saw my projector plug.
I have a "male" outlet plug for the projector in my equipment room. He was curious as to why I did that, but as soon as he saw what I had done he was fine with it.

He put the label on my breaker box that said "Inspected and passed" so I was definetely jazzed.

I wanted to have the projector run, but I had sent the Panasonic PT-AX100U into the shop (Heartland) to fix the annoying "flickering" that this projector is known for. It wasn't too bad, but I didn't want it to get worse, and it was still under warrantee, so I elected to get it fixed. The people at Projector People and also Heartland were very good and helpful, BTW, I hope this thing works out OK.

So now I don't have my projector, and no excuses for not doing the rest of the room.

We shopped for carpet last nite, so hopefully we can attend to that, then the moulding and trim, the door, the proscenium, (sigh).....Does it ever stop?!?!?!

Best,
Chinaclipper
Tom

Great news Tom!! That has got to be a major relief.

I'm surprised that you got through the final inspection without having the space carpeted.

Congrats. Now its time to finish 'er up!

Tom, I bet you can taste it. I can't wait to see how my - I mean your room turns out.

You might have said, but what are the dimensions of your columns?

Judson

P.S. I get my drywall lift tomorrow morning... remember that step?

Hey, Tom. Just caught up on the thread and the build looks fantastic. I've fallen way behind with the new daughter, but have started building again. Again, congrats on all the hard work. Get ready for the payoff!!

...for the kind words... I'll see if I can address all comments and maybe add a few of my own ;)

Cathan: I told the inspector when I called to schedule that I hadn't put carpet down yet "because we still needed to finish the trim" and he said "no problem" so I didn't push the issue-guess it's a "which comes first kind of a thing-the chicken or the egg..."

judsonp: My dimensions are 12'9" x 19'9" x 7'. Yes I well remember the drywall step. The lift is a blessing, n'est pas? Make sure you have help, though, it will make it 1000% easier

Eddie Horton: Hey! Welcome back! I've checked your thread from time to time, best wishes on the build progress,and the daughter too of course! Some things are even much more important than the ol' HT ;)

mbgonzomd:Roger that! Carpet ordered and will come ~week or so. Need to finish trim (might be someone else-lots of outside corners on my plan....) then the proscenium, then seating, then the official opening.

I've stopped trying to give a deadline for the "official" opening....live and learn, huh? Thanks doc.

Hopefully seating will be ordered through Roman, three 088s with everything (sounds like a diner order...... :) )

BTW, are you really EVER really finished with these darn things? I mean, I already have about a million plans for additions, upgrades, tweaks, etc.....When will it end..

Stay tuned for more adventures.

Best,
Tom
Chinaclipper

I decided to try my hand at baseboards today.
My theory was "give it a try, see what you can do-if it's too hard, or not good looking, you can "hire it out".

Well, mixed reviews, I suppose. I had decided a while ago to go with flat black baseboards. (http://tomdufresne.com/v-web/gallery/album16/IMG_9234) Not sure at the moment if that was the right decision, but I digress.

I learned as much as I could about baseboards, coping, mitering (isn't that why I bought the "miter" saw" anyway?) and was ready to give 'er a try.

All and all, it was a good experience. I painted the baseboards twice, and had to do some touch up work after I "air bradded " the into place. Some of the white showed through. You can see the places where I touched up, or need to be touched up (white showing through) they weren't quite dry yet so they kind of show.

Mitering was actually harder than coping, in my opinion. Both were kind of fun, but mitering seemed to take more "cutting and fitting".

I had lots of corners (http://tomdufresne.com/v-web/gallery/album16/IMG_9232) and had to allow for a HVAC inlet (http://tomdufresne.com/v-web/gallery/album16/IMG_9232) too. That was fun. It required a few more tricks, but I think it turned out OK.

I'm not quite sure if I want to tackle the chair rail and the header moulding, but I guess we'll see. The chair rail and the header mouldings are going to be a bit more intricately designed, and I will try my hand at antiquing;I plan on using a gold base with a black/grey glaze. I'm looking for that older, "classic" theater look, has anyone figured that out yet? :)

Tomorrow maybe I'll try the other side, then go to Lowes' and see about our carpet order. The guy came out to measure, and so we should be good to go with carpet soon.


Oh well, until then....

Best,
Chinaclipper
Tom

judsonp: My dimensions are 12'9" x 19'9" x 7'. Yes I well remember the drywall step. The lift is a blessing, n'est pas? Make sure you have help, though, it will make it 1000% easier


Tom,

Sorry to be a pest but I was curious as to the dimensions of your columns... if you have a minute to share.

Thanks,
Judson

Tom,

Sorry to be a pest but I was curious as to the dimensions of your columns... if you have a minute to share.

Thanks,
Judson
No probs Judson!
The front columns are 13 1/2" edge to edge, the rears are 12", again edge to edge.
I needed to make the fronts just a smidge wider to accommodate the front (L) HVAC, and I wanted to make the (R) and (L) even. There is no HVAC opening in the (R) side, but it would have looked weird to make 'em uneven. I will put a "corner moulding" on the edges to clean up a bit that will increase the size slightly, but I think that is just minimal.

Depth-wise was based on the size of speakers and clearances. (Axioms) I believe they (QS8 & QS4's) are both 6" deep, so I had my speaker face (GOM) designed to be about 6 1/2" from the mount.

hehe I wished I could say the size was all designed to "maximize the acoustical property and shape the sound qualities and affect the SPL levels....blah blah blah.." Well, I designed mine based on much more simple things, things already discussed, and outlet placement, you know, real world stuff like that. I also like the way ebr's looked :D Does that count?

Finished up the right side baseboard...more on that later.

Miters and coping oh my! Miters and coping oh my!!....

Best,
Chinaclipper
Tom

No probs Judson!
The front columns are 13 1/2" edge to edge, the rears are 12", again edge to edge.
I needed to make the fronts just a smidge wider to accommodate the front (L) HVAC, and I wanted to make the (R) and (L) even. There is no HVAC opening in the (R) side, but it would have looked weird to make 'em uneven. I will put a "corner moulding" on the edges to clean up a bit that will increase the size slightly, but I think that is just minimal.

Depth-wise was based on the size of speakers and clearances. (Axioms) I believe they (QS8 & QS4's) are both 6" deep, so I had my speaker face (GOM) designed to be about 6 1/2" from the mount.

hehe I wished I could say the size was all designed to "maximize the acoustical property and shape the sound qualities and affect the SPL levels....blah blah blah.." Well, I designed mine based on much more simple things, things already discussed, and outlet placement, you know, real world stuff like that. I also like the way ebr's looked :D Does that count?

Finished up the right side baseboard...more on that later.

Miters and coping oh my! Miters and coping oh my!!....

Best,
Chinaclipper
Tom

Thanks Tom. I originally planned to make mine 14"x5" and use the back ones to build a box for in wall speakers. I am having second thoughts and considering doing something similar to what you (and many others) have done. Putting a dipole/bipole "box" speaker and covering it with a fake panel.

The Paradigm adp-390 is 6 13/16" deep so this makes my column more like 7 1/2". My concern is that for a room of our size it will be too deep.

Glad to hear your catching on to the "mitering". I think for me that will be a really fun part as it kind of ties everything together. I really am terrible at finishing so it will be interesting.

I think your right about the "real-world" properties that we have to live with when making decisions about our theaters. I keep trying to tell my self that once it's done and the lights go down and the first official movie kicks off - it will be bliss!

Thanks again for the info!

Judson

So I ordered my carpet from Lowes on Monday night-should be coming in about 10-14 days.

Unfortunately that will put me smack dab in the middle of the college football 2-a-days, but, such is life.

I had to send my Panny AX100U back AGAIN for the second time...Same problem too! That darn Flickering" thing, where it dims then brightens, ever so slightly, but noticably, so much so that even the boss noticed it (After I pointed it out to her... ;) Hopefully Heartland will either fix it or send me a new one..... More on that I am sure..

Anyway, it got me back in the build mode. I started my chair rail. I am using a cool "antique gold (http://tomdufresne.com/v-web/gallery/album16/IMG_9242?full=1)" motif for the chair rail and the moulding against the ceiling (can't recall the name for THAT one...Little help please?)

I painted mine first with a primer, them the gold, then used a glaze with some black latex paint (2 parts glaze 1 part black latex). The glaze is just painted on, then you let it dry a few minutes, then wipe it off with a cotton rag. The pictures aren't quite spot on, the actual shade is a bit darker then it looks in the pictures. The shade matches my wall sconces "just so!" :D
I think it looks real cool (http://tomdufresne.com/v-web/gallery/album16/IMG_9243?full=1), it seems to really give me the feel I was looking for, anyway. :D

So more mitering and coping for a few more days, then start the ceiling panel, the one that "caps" my top of the screen and forward.
I will wait on the proscenium until I get the carpet, and just place it directly on top.

Best,

Chinaclipper
Tom

Unfortunately that will put me smack dab in the middle of the college football 2-a-days, but, such is life.
OK, now I am getting excited...



Tom,

I am really impressed by this, it looks GREAT!

http://tomdufresne.com/v-web/gallery/albums/album16/IMG_9243.jpg

Keep it up!
Judson

Well, no real news to report...

Carpet guy called to say the carpet won't be in until the 14th....Hmmm can't start the proscenium until the carpet is installed...

Projector still not fixed.....Hmmmm Maybe an excuse to get more things done?

But Hey! I can work on the ceiling mouldings! So that's what I started yesterday-painting my moulding strips. First primer grey, then metallic gold, then antique to achieve "the look". Should be able to finish them by next week, but by then we are in the middle of fall football....Things MAY grind to a screeching halt...

Been listening to alot of my old CD's.. Nice..

Oh! I DID order my theater seats from Roman. Nice ones too. I settled on three black leather 45004's, in a slight curve, all with power everything and mini-buttkickers. But they won't be here for a few weeks.... Argh! More waiting.... I hope they don't get here BEFORE the carpet guys do their thing....

Best,
Tom

Chinaclipper

Couple of things to report...

1) My carpet guy called and now I get the carpet probably week after next. (week of 13th) That of course is assuming the installer and the carpet people are both in synch..
2) My projector is here. Well, not exactly;it's in Lincoln, but it's at UPS. I have to get it Monday AM.
3) I finished my "low frame (http://tomdufresne.com/v-web/gallery/album16/IMG_9288?full=1)" for the bottom part of my screen. I built fabric frames (a la Gary Powers) and covered them with GOM after I painted them flat black.
4) I started my crown moulding (http://tomdufresne.com/v-web/gallery/album16/IMG_9284)-I loved the pattern.
It seemed to really compliment the chair rail (http://tomdufresne.com/v-web/gallery/album16/IMG_9243?full=1).

I got the whole left side done, the back, and some of the right wall before I ran out of trim and had to go to Menards to get more.

So-with a bit of luck, should finish the crown tomorrow or Monday. I will get the projector and set 'er in place, and then hope I don't have the same problem as before :(

So far, so good. Lots more to do, but it's closer than I was this time last week.
Thanks for reading....hope I don't bore you all...

PS- I am NOT a finish carpenter, nor do I play one on TV...but it is fun...

Best,

Tom
Chinaclipper

...because not much happening in the construction phase. I am currently waiting for the carpet installers to call-with some luck they should install it this week or maybe next.

I did finish all the crown trim-it looks great. I am really happy about the way it turned out-I was seriously going to "farm" this chore out, but I am pleasantly suprised at the results. It sure helps to have the right tools.

I am pretty involved with football fall camp, so not a lot of time to do too much... I need to design/build my ceiling "cap" for the screen, and after I get the carpet in, I can think about the proscenium, and then start to really think about the door.

I am still really enjoying the acoustics-CD's sound so good (thanks BPAPE), and the Panny seems to have the bugs worked out (after sending back two times now).

Next major project will be the equipment room upgrade. Now its basically four white walls. I think I will paint to match the main HT room, then think about a popcorn machine and the equipment tower placement. Right now I just have things stacked up;need to get some order there---

Anyway, still some more work to do, but gradually getting there...
Best,

Tom
Chinaclipper

Well, finally-my carpet arrived (http://tomdufresne.com/v-web/gallery/album17/IMG_9436)yesterday! I was very happy, the colors, pattern, and textures (http://tomdufresne.com/v-web/gallery/album17/carpet_007a?full=1) were just as promised.

They were able to use padding on the stage (http://tomdufresne.com/v-web/gallery/album17/IMG_9438?full=1), which they said was the hardest part.

I realy enjoy the way the carpet picks up our major theater colors (http://tomdufresne.com/v-web/gallery/album17/carpet_003a?full=1)-burgundy walls, blue ceiling, and brown/wood tones of the columns.

I guess I'd be remiss if I didn't say something about how it has significantly increased our satisfaction and appreciation of the home theater experience.
The sound is absolutely beautiful-even better that I ever expected. Dialogue is sharp, clear, and crisp. Background sounds, like crickets, bugs, or whatever is even more impressive then before. For instance, I never noticed it when we first saw "The Bridges of Madison County" (Hey, I like Clint Eastwood, OK?). But now, wow :eek: I mean everything is so realistic-thunder in the distance, etc.

I am now beginning to fully appreciate what these sound technicians can (and did!) do for me. Thanks to all, those who made me think and plan BEFORE I put up my screen:D

And wait, did I mention the picture itself? With the dark stage, and the floor carpet, it makes the screen appear even more breath-taking. It really enhances the picture when the floor isn't a whitish concrete expanse. Holy Cow.....

Well, no more excuses now. I still have to get those proscenia up (now I can't say I have to wait for carpet), I have to finish the screen ceiling, I have to finish the equipment room, and I have to install the "cheap seats" we will put on the riser, and I guess I should think about hooking up my "buttkickers" on the riser too, eh?

My Berkline 45004's are due to come in Sept 6th or so. They are three seats, slightly curved. About 91" right to left. Could be a bit tight, but I am hoping for the best. They will form my front row.

With a bit of luck, I MAY have enough to do until Christmas...

The boss is now talking about starting to think about upgrading the downstairs bath to match the HT.

It really doesn't ever stop, does it?

Best,
Tom
Chinaclipper

Tom,

Your carpet and your whole theater is looking great! Thanks for sharing the pictures and information!

I have been following your build since the beginning and I may have missed it somewhere, but it looks like you added a bull nose to the front of the stage and possibly the riser. I am at the point where I need to do this to help the carpet people make things work easier. What did you do to add the bull nose and what did you use?

Ken

Tom,

Your carpet and your whole theater is looking great! Thanks for sharing the pictures and information!

I have been following your build since the beginning and I may have missed it somewhere, but it looks like you added a bull nose to the front of the stage and possibly the riser. I am at the point where I need to do this to help the carpet people make things work easier. What did you do to add the bull nose and what did you use?

Ken
Ken
Thanks for the kind words. I had a time with the front of the stage-and could have easily made it a bit nicer, but I was in a hurry to get the carpet down :)

The stage is a three layer sandwich suggested by many on this forum as a standard building technique. You can see how I did the curve here (http://tomdufresne.com/v-web/gallery/album14/IMG_8127?full=1) by using a string and a piece of chalk.

I did that for each layer, so the edges were a bit "rough". I talked to my carpet guy, and he said I wouldn't be able to use a carpet pad under the stage, and they would have to just tuck it and glue it under the lip. As it turned out, the night before I just made a nice easy rounded edge with the 3/8" radius router bit, and they were able to use the pad on stage with tack strips and everything, and they rolled and glued the carpet underneath the lip. Voila

In retrospect, I probably should have made the stage a bit higher (6" or more) so they could get the stapler underneath the lip but I was/am dealing with a height problem-I have a 7 foot ceiling

I looked into the bull-nose stair riser things, but it was't an option for me. (because I honestly wasn't thinking about the darn thing until it was too late!:))

I guess it isn't "perfect", but it looks great to me!

If I would have had a drum or belt sander, I could have gotten a real nice edge on the three layers of plywood, and made a beautiful rounded lip. As it was, I didn't have either, and just felt it would have to work the way I did it.

I did the same thing with my riser, but since it was only two layers thick, it wasn't a problem.

Good luck with the build,
Best,
Tom
Chinaclipper

Tom, everything looks like it's all coming together for you. Good choice on colors for the carpet. It really has a theater feel to it. I'm sure it will get even better once your chairs get there if a couple of weeks.

... on my theater seats. I can't install my "cheap seats" until my Berklines are here. Gotta get the seating just right, and can't do that until...etc. Almost like the "chicken before the egg" thing...

In the meantime, I am finishing up my ceiling "cap", permanently installed my trim on my columns, and continue planning my equipment room decor.
Am I dragging my feet? Well, I guess you gotta make a good thing last, huh?

What will I do next? Maybe the bathroom, to match the HT of course...
Best,
Tom
Chinaclipper

Hi! Love the construction thread... I've recently started my own theater build but haven't gotten a thread up just yet. Anyway, I think we're going to be using dark red, black and grey as our colors and I love the red and black carpet with matching patterns. We wanted black on the stage but thought solid black would be a bit much, so just that splash of color is great.

I see that you ordered it from Lowe's, but can I ask what manufacuter, name, etc? Also, if you don't mind, what was the rough cost of it installed?

Thanks!

Hi! Love the construction thread... I've recently started my own theater build but haven't gotten a thread up just yet. Anyway, I think we're going to be using dark red, black and grey as our colors and I love the red and black carpet with matching patterns. We wanted black on the stage but thought solid black would be a bit much, so just that splash of color is great.

I see that you ordered it from Lowe's, but can I ask what manufacture, name, etc? Also, if you don't mind, what was the rough cost of it installed?

Thanks!
Hey! Thanks for the kind words. The colors really pick up the blue ceiling, the walls, and the wood.

The carpet and installation, with the high end padding was $1100. They had to charge a bit extra on the stage front, because of the arc, but all and all I was very satisfied-soup to nuts. It took 'em about 8 hours, including the lunch break.

I am at work and don't have the carpet brand/name, I'll see if I can find it at home....
Best,
Tom
Chinaclipper

If you remember I had an open area where the acoustical insulation was showing. No real damage done, but it looked messy (http://tomdufresne.com/v-web/gallery/album15/IMG_9620?full=1),

I used some GOM and a few staples.
I tried using a strip to hide staples, but if you look close (http://tomdufresne.com/v-web/gallery/album15/IMG_9622?full=1) you can see where the strip is visiable. It was visible when the lights go down too, so I decided to try it without the strip. Because its underneath, you can't see the staples (http://tomdufresne.com/v-web/gallery/album15/IMG_9626?full=1)at all.
Just because I had a few scraps of GOM left, I covered up the strip on the back wall, and now it has NO shine thru at all.

No seats yet, I hope they come in this week.

We play USC this Saturday, so I'm guessing a Saturday spent on seats and installation is out of the question. Maybe Sunday?
Stay tuned..

Best,
Tom
Chinaclipper

Just a follow-up... I tracked down the carpet you have at Lowes and I think its one of two carpets in the running that we plan on goingwith when we get to that point. I just got a sample of the Deep Burgundy GOM and that's definately the sdhade of red we were looking for, it just looked wayyy too dark on their website so we had ignored it.

I'd say that we had very similiar thoughts in mind, so there could end up being a theater in Iowa that ends up looking quite similiar to the Rockhurst!

Just a follow-up... I tracked down the carpet you have at Lowes and I think its one of two carpets in the running that we plan on goingwith when we get to that point. I just got a sample of the Deep Burgundy GOM and that's definately the sdhade of red we were looking for, it just looked wayyy too dark on their website so we had ignored it.

I'd say that we had very similiar thoughts in mind, so there could end up being a theater in Iowa that ends up looking quite similiar to the Rockhurst!
Cool! Glad ya found the Lowes carpet. I couldn't find my invoice...

Yeah, they make it sooooo easy at the GOM website to get color swatches its worth it to get 'em sent to ya before ya make any color choices!
BTW, isn't imitation the best form of flattery? :) Believe me, my theater is also a combination of several ideas and plain "implimenting of others ideas"...
That is what makes this place so cool!
Best,
Tom

Well, tonight I finally finished and temporarily installed my proscenium.
I used 1x4" select grade pine. My proscenia are not weight bearing, so I didn't need the heavier wood.
It turned out nice. I still need to adjust my crown and chair rail, and then I can slide them in place, and cover the edge of staples.
Here are the "rough" (http://tomdufresne.com/v-web/gallery/album15/IMG_9637?full=1) panels.
And here are the painted ones (http://tomdufresne.com/v-web/gallery/album15/IMG_9644?full=1)now...I am afraid the flat black really hides them!
And then the proscenium temp mounted (http://tomdufresne.com/v-web/gallery/album15/IMG_9650?full=1)in place....Again I apologize for the detail, or lack thereof.... They are pretty dark!
All and all a good and simple build-lots of staples again, and brads and Gorilla Glue. It's hard to do any building in the HT space now, its so nice with the new carpet :)

Tomorrow (finally!) they are supposed to deliver the theater chairs. So it looks like, with a bit of luck, I MAY be able to have the chairs in place and functioning by this weekend. They are power everything Berklines 45004's, set up in a slight curve, three chairs.

Will need to mount the cinema seats-hoping to get 5 but MAY have to settle for 4 in the riser row... we'll see what develops. Buttkickers need to be hooked up there too! :)

Still more work, this thing is not done yet!
Best,
Tom
Chinaclipper

Wooooo-hoo!
Finally got my chairs. They weigh a bit, so we struggled a bit gettin' em down stairs. Couple of observations first...
-They are shipped and packed very well
-The power cord for the chairs are "zipped tied" to the chairs frame. Kind of a pain to get that unfastened!
-the seat backs are shipped separately, and need to be fastened. It's a no-brainer, after the FIRST one...:)
-the $15/per chair they get for the "isolators" might be a bit steep... and frankly I'm not quite sure if they do much if the chairs are on top of a carpet and thick pad.
-Haven't hooked up the "mini-buttkickers" yet, but they look cool, waiting for there chance in the frame!
-The chairs (3 45004's) look pretty cool (http://tomdufresne.com/v-web/gallery/album18/seats_003a)in the room-just what I envisioned (http://tomdufresne.com/v-web/gallery/album18/seats_004a)....
---and last but not least, the chairs are SO COMFORTABLE!!! The "power recline" selection MAY have been the second best decision I made with the chairs...Neat, VERY neat


Still to do?
---Well, I need to hook up B/K's, then put in the "cinema seats" on the riser and..
---hook up the riser's B/K's too.
---Start the finish on the equipment room. I think I will paint to match the HT.
---Start thinking about a door....:)
Wow! I'M NOT FINISHED YET... Cool ;)
Best,
Tom
Chinaclipper

I got these Irwin Citation chairs (http://tomdufresne.com/v-web/gallery/album18/seats_019a)(refurbished) in November of 2006. Hadn't been able to really even "bust 'em out" until Sunday.

They match my colors/decor almost perfect, I put a slight "curve" in the row of five for a nice effect. The color of the chairs shows up darker that it actually is-in person, its a good match for the GOM walls. and the carpet. I am please with the results.

With the forward seats reclined 1/2 way, even a 5'4" person can see fine from the back row. I have the seats temporarily in place (http://tomdufresne.com/v-web/gallery/album18/seats_013a), I will make it permanent tonight with 12 1/4" x 2 1/2" lag screws into my double layer plywood riser. There is a nice space in front of the back or rear row where I can put a small table or shelf for snacks or whatnot without compromising the "walk by" of the rear aisle.

I've activated my buttkickers to the recliners-I had to use a more permanent banana plug-The ones that came with the "quick connect" kit kept falling out when the chairs "shook". Wow!

The rear seats will have two full-sized Butt-Kickers installed on the riser;they will be installed at an equal distance from the centerline of the middle rear "cinema seat". They will be powered by a Crest Vs-900 pro audio amp. The B/K will be wired in series for a 8 ohm load, placing about 450 watts (maximum) available to each B/K's. Each set of B/K's (fronts and backs) will have a crossover network installed that is set at 70 hz. Should do the trick...

Next up? Make the prosceniums permanent, then tackle the equipment room.

Best,
Tom
Chinaclipper

I finally got the proscenia in place (http://tomdufresne.com/v-web/gallery/album15/proscenium_002a)and "tacked in". I used a series of brads after I placed and leveled 'em, so I can move them if need be.
I hesitated, but I ended up pulling the moulding and crown, and cutting on the bench, vs trying to cut them "in place". I didn't want to scuff up the GOM. :)

The proscenia give the theater the "finished look" I was searching for....I stiill haven't decided on a back door. Do I or don't I kind of a thing, I dunno......

This weekend the team is on the road, so I may try to tackle the equipment room. I did rack up some of the amps (http://tomdufresne.com/v-web/gallery/album18/proscenium_007a)and gear needed for the Butt-kickers. I will eventually get my mixer board in, and use the whole thing for my "live shows" on stage. (OK so I play a little acoustic guitar now and then.....)

I saw some cool "panoramic" photos taken in a local theater, the ones where you can pan and get the "360 degrees virtual view". I called the company and they charge $50/hour. Sounds like a pretty good deal, I MAY see if I can get that done. It would be a cool thing to send to family, so they could see what we do over here in "fly-over" country when we're not farming and fending off the Indians of course...

Best,
Tom
Chinaclipper

Congratulations Tom! Looks great.

Congratulations Tom! Looks great.Thanks loads Marc. It's thanks to people like you, Dennis, Brian, and many, many others on the forum who really helped and influenced me (thankfully in the early stages). :)

I had the photographer come out and do the virtual reality shots (http://tomdufresne.com/HT.mov). The colors aren't <quite> exact, and the movie NEVEER looks quite as real as it is, but I think you'll all get the idea (http://tomdufresne.com/hta.mov). The photos are a bit big, but it IS kind of fun......

Big bro is coming to town tomorrow, so I guess we will give the HT a good workout, maybe even FINALLY start on the equipment room.

Who is it said when the projector goes up the building stops?!?!?!

Best,
Tom
Chinaclipper

I finally am getting around to the "other areas" supporting the theater. I thought I would do the equipment room (http://tomdufresne.com/v-web/gallery/album20/speakers_009a)first, and then tackle the "lobby".

I am going to paint (http://tomdufresne.com/v-web/gallery/album20/IMG_9681)the equipment room like the main HT area. Burgundy on the top, flat black on the lower areas. For the front people see/feel I MAY use the extra GOM for the walls-no Lincoustic treament though. Too much work!! Just slap the GOM directly on the front of the walls to get that nice texture.

I also had a chance to try out sign-making, making a sign made from a shadowbox. The idea is well documented on the forum, so I thought it was time to do a little Photoshop 7 primer (http://tomdufresne.com/v-web/gallery/album20/test210_27SIGN_copy?full=1).

The sign will be backlit, so I "punched up" the color a bit a Kinko's. Not bad for a grand total of like $20.

Will prime and paint the rest of the equipment walls this week, then start on the lobby. The lobby will have nice paint, bathroom signs, and maybe even a candy counter with popcorn too.... That may take awhile! :)

Best,
Tom
Chinaclipper

I have researched and found some real neat ways to build a "mask" for the screen. Scott0007 has some great ideas using GOM fabric, aluminium rollers, and 1/16th" aircraft cable.

I have a constant height setup, so I don't need vertical screening, only horizontal. I use 3 main formats, 2:35:1, 1:85:1, and 4:3. I use 2:35 probably 35%, 16:9~55%, and 4:3 maybe 10% at the most. An occasional 2:40, et al.

His ideas and designs looks great, I think it will meet my standards. I will do some preliminary measuring, drawings (http://tomdufresne.com/v-web/gallery/album19/mask), debug, and see it I can make it work for my setup. My requirements are:

simple
inexpensive
can be powered at some time
and above all, functional.

Stand by for more,

BTW, with THIS post I am at 500!

Best,
Tom
Chinaclipper