You can make your own component cables with coax and use wall plates in each room with coax outlets. Just make sure to keep track of which outlet is which. You can get "F" connector to "RCA" connector adapters so you can connect the tv and satellite box outlet to the coax jacks at the wall. Amongst other things this is how most installation companies set up sub woofers if they are not near the amplifier. It is also how I set up my sub woofer. If you are reasonablty skilled and careful and have access to the space between the walls, either through the basement or attic it will be very neat with no pesky holes in the floor. :)
Thanks, so you are saying I can run my 3 color compoents over standard cable/coax? and then re-separate on the other end? If you have a link or photo of this setup, it would be most helpful.

I'm set up for install of the HR20 this Monday and had a few question (sorry if they were asked before). Will the box come with the BBC's or should I order them on the website? And will I get the hr20-700 or the 100?
BBC's should be included, they were with mine 6 weeks ago.
Luck of the draw on the 700 v 100. I prefer the 100 as it has both digital Coax and Toslink audio outs. Ask the installer as he/she may have both on the truck and if you ask for the 100 (if they have one), you should have no problem getting it. The model # is printed on the sticker on the box.

I have an HR20 on the way to me. Does anyone know if HDMI also carries audio or will I have to hook up an optical cable to my AVR?

Thanks
HDMI (High Definition Multimedia Interface) does carry audio to your television, but generally only 2ch. Some sets will pass thru 5.1 via optical or coax to your surround. Most receivers do not pick up the digital 5.1 track off HDMI unless they are very new, most pass thru video only and may pick up 2 ch sound off the HDMI. Check your receiver for details.
Short answer, yes 2 channel to your TV.
Long answer is to not use tv pass thru - but use direct cables (either optical or coax - coax is a choice on the hr20-100 not the 700) to your receiver and MAKE SURE you tell the HR20 in setup to output digital Surround - it is defaulted not to.

You will LOVE the HR20, especially since you have no Tivo hangups like some folks have/had (I used to be one).


I have a TIVO hangup :) I am stuck at the crossroads between Tivo and DirecTv. I currently have the HR10-250 to get my High Def Directv. I believe I am going to keep directv. Is the directv HD dvr a nice unit? Will i regret abandoning tivo? I do like that all outputs are on at once. Anything else gained or lost?

Thanks,
Jeremy

^^^ I went through this thread another member posted and it answered a lot of my questions regarding the difference between the 10-250 and the HR20. Take a look if you haven't yet.

http://www.dbstalk.com/showthread.php?t=69404

I have a TIVO hangup :) I am stuck at the crossroads between Tivo and DirecTv. I currently have the HR10-250 to get my High Def Directv. I believe I am going to keep directv. Is the directv HD dvr a nice unit? Will i regret abandoning tivo? I do like that all outputs are on at once. Anything else gained or lost?

Thanks,
Jeremy

If you like the TiVo Sugguestions, that's gone. I've had a TiVo of some kind since 2000, but I am very happy with my HR20. There are a few things that the HR20 does that I absolutely love that TiVo does not do - shrink the video to a small corner when showing the guide or the recorded shows list. Pressing the menu brings up an overlay and keeps your show going. It's one thing that now I really DON'T like about TiVo. I have to exist whatever I'm watching to look at the menu, then browse back to the particular show to start. The HR20 never "leaves" that show.

YMMV, but I am quite happy with my HR20.

Copied my earlier post here... I was a big fan of the Tivo, but I just ordered my 2nd HR20 and am abandoning my final Tivo SD box...

I was very very skeptical, but the HR20 is a darn good DVR, it even has some features that Tivo does not have. Caller ID, Playing all shows in a folder in order, surfing channels allowed while watching recorded stuff, the ability to output SD and HD at the same time (very nice if you have a VCR, Slingbox, DVD recorder etc).
I just ordered my 2nd from DTV and am actually ditching my old SD Tivo (this means I no longer have to pay $7.99 protection/mo, I'll drop down to $5.99/mo since these are leased, not owned).

It's one thing that now I really DON'T like about TiVo. I have to exist whatever I'm watching to look at the menu, then browse back to the particular show to start. The HR20 never "leaves" that show.

YMMV, but I am quite happy with my HR20.
Not sure I understand the complaint, do you mean that if you are watching a recorded show, then go to live, then hit list, that the list is always at the top instead of the just watched show? If that is what you mean, I feel your pain. It is annoying.

I have a question as well.

If I am recording 2 shows at once and watching a recoded show from my list and want to go to live tv, I hit stop and it goes right to one of my shows (I guess it picks tuner #1). If I wanted to go to tuner #2 on the old tivo, I'd just hit enter or down and it would jump me to tuner 2. I can not seem to find that feature here. What is the HR20 eqivalent of tuner toggle?

Thanks, so you are saying I can run my 3 color compoents over standard cable/coax? and then re-separate on the other end? If you have a link or photo of this setup, it would be most helpful.
"standard" coax yes, but three of them, since you can't combine or separate the signals.

so any way to run long spans of HDMI and add the tip later?

Not sure I understand the complaint, do you mean that if you are watching a recorded show, then go to live, then hit list, that the list is always at the top instead of the just watched show? If that is what you mean, I feel your pain. It is annoying.

I have a question as well.

If I am recording 2 shows at once and watching a recoded show from my list and want to go to live tv, I hit stop and it goes right to one of my shows (I guess it picks tuner #1). If I wanted to go to tuner #2 on the old tivo, I'd just hit enter or down and it would jump me to tuner 2. I can not seem to find that feature here. What is the HR20 eqivalent of tuner toggle?
To go to your other recording, press guide and find the recording, then select.
You can't toggle tuners but can go to either recording while it is in progress.
With two recordings, you can through the guide select either. If you have selected one and then the other, you can then use the previous button [under channel up/down] and come as close to DLB [TiVo] as you can with the HR-20.

What is the HR20 eqivalent of tuner toggle?
there is none. the HR20 has a single live buffer, tivo's have 2.

so any way to run long spans of HDMI and add the tip later?
Depending on cable [maker] isn't the "tip" the same or smaller than the size of three coax?

"standard" coax yes, but three of them, since you can't combine or separate the signals.


Good point, should have included that part, but I thought that making sure you keep track of which is which implied that :o

Hi think i will give up the Tivo ghost, i never used the suggestions anyways. Do i have to buy a the new unit? Or since I wont be able to watch the new HD, am i entitled to a newer unit?
Thanks,

Danmen, thx for your help re audio thru HDMI. I have a Marantz 7001 and it handles audio thru the HDMI. I will have the HR20 routed thru the AVR and then to a PJ and to a TV. I guess I will have to wait to see what the HR20 does pass thru.

Thanks again.

The HR20-100s passes DD5.1 through the HDMI -- I know this as my Onkyo 803 (note: several years old) assigns the audio TO the HDMI stream when you select HDMI as the video input. I haven't tried forcing OPT or COAX with an HDMI input, but then again, why should I.

On a similar note: I've noticed the optical connector on MY box is weak -- the TOSLINK connector actually will fall out of the HR20. I've used both a cheap one and a Monster-Cable but they're both loose. It's not the cable -- they both work fine on my Onkyo and HTPC. Should I have D* send a replacement box? It's only been in service 6 weeks!

Does anyone out there use the HR20 to feed TWO HD sets in different rooms? I know I'll only be able to watch the same thing in each room.
Is there an easy way to run HD signal to 2nd room? I am guessing running an HDMI cable to room #2 would be easier, but it's kind of hard to drill an HDMI sized hole through the floor. Are there any cables that you can "Snap apart" so you could just fish the cable thru the floor/wall then snap the HDMI connecter back on? Or if not HDMI, could that same type thing be done with Component cable?
I'd like to run component to the tv next to the box, then HDMI to room #2. Any suggestions/links to such devices would be appreciated. Thanks!You can use a componet video / digital audio balun like this (http://www.svideo.com/500051.html) one. http://us.st11.yimg.com/us.st.yimg.com/I/videoware_1962_7329393. All you need a a single run of cat5 cable. I can't personally vouch for this device but people seem to get good results with these type of devices. I use a 4x2 component matrix switch with a HR10-250, Roku Photobridge, and xbox 360 to TVs in 2 different rooms. Good luck.

Jay

Hi think i will give up the Tivo ghost, i never used the suggestions anyways. Do i have to buy a the new unit? Or since I wont be able to watch the new HD, am i entitled to a newer unit?
Thanks,
Get ahold of the "retention" department. They are very good at comping these units for long time customers, if they balk, mention you might go to charter, dish, etc. I got my 1st HR20 for free, 2nd for $99.00. You have to promise to stay with DTV for 2 more years, which I had no problem with.

You can use a componet video / digital audio balun like this (http://www.svideo.com/500051.html) one. http://us.st11.yimg.com/us.st.yimg.com/I/videoware_1962_7329393. All you need a a single run of cat5 cable. I can't personally vouch for this device but people seem to get good results with these type of devices. I use a 4x2 component matrix switch with a HR10-250, Roku Photobridge, and xbox 360 to TVs in 2 different rooms. Good luck.

Jay
You are the man!
That explains the sending end, but do I get one on the other end to re-separate?

Get ahold of the "retention" department. They are very good at comping these units for long time customers, if they balk, mention you might go to charter, dish, etc. I got my 1st HR20 for free, 2nd for $99.00. You have to promise to stay with DTV for 2 more years, which I had no problem with.You may not have to bother with Retention. I just "upgraded" a couple of days ago, and the regular CSR took care of it with no questions asked and no charge other than a nominal S&H fee. He didn't even ask for a new 2 year commitment, although I'd guess that was an oversight.

You are the man!
That explains the sending end, but do I get one on the other end to re-separate?You need 2 devices, one for each end. There is no seperate send or receive unit, you just need to have 2 of them. Good luck and let us know how they work.

Jay

Thanks again. Any HD Wireless av senders like the x10

Can anyone tell me what thinking is behind DirecTV down converting the Ka band signals to B band instead of L band?

I haven't figured out the sense of that and thus requiring a pair of dribble-boxes hanging out the back of the HR-20, as well as the extra stage of RF hetrodyning.

Can anyone tell me what thinking is behind DirecTV down converting the Ka band signals to B band instead of L band?

I haven't figured out the sense of that and thus requiring a pair of dribble-boxes hanging out the back of the HR-20, as well as the extra stage of RF hetrodyning.
Five LNBs with right & left hand polarized transponders being controlled by two voltages [13 & 18 volts] and a 22 kHz tone, that needs to be backward compatible.
So there are three frequency blocks, 250-750, 950-1450, & 1650-2150 MHz coming down the coax all of the time [or will be with the new Ka-lo channels coming].
13 & 18 volts pick the right & left hand polarized transponders and 22 kHz selects the 101 or 110 & 119 birds. This leaves the Ka-hi & Ka-lo to come down in the other frequency blocks than the Ku 950-1450 MHz.

I currently have an SD DTV Tivo unit in my bedroom and am trying to decide if the HR20 is any noisier than the Tivo. I have an air filter going constantly in the room, so it drowns out all the hard drive noises on the tivo... Any users out there with the HR20 that can report if it is bothersome in a bedroom with prevelant white noise already there?

I currently have an SD DTV Tivo unit in my bedroom and am trying to decide if the HR20 is any noisier than the Tivo. I have an air filter going constantly in the room, so it drowns out all the hard drive noises on the tivo... Any users out there with the HR20 that can report if it is bothersome in a bedroom with prevelant white noise already there?

I have one in the bedroom, but it is behind the glass doors of the TV stand so I never really hear it. If I open the doors, I can hear a slight hum, but that 's about it.

I have one in the bedroom, but it is behind the glass doors of the TV stand so I never really hear it. If I open the doors, I can hear a slight hum, but that 's about it.
This is about the same level of noise I hear from my two. They're not in my bedroom, but when everything is off I can sense them, but any other thing turned on and I don't. [FWIW fans drive me nuts, so this should give you an idea of how quiet it should be for you]

Does the DirecTV HD receivers— models HR20 (100 & 700) and H20 have the connections to hook-up cable, satellite and HD OTA antenna? In other words, do they have connections for all three services?

^^^ Just satellite and OTA, no cable.

Can someone verify that both the HR20-100 and HR20-700 have TWO sets of RCA outputs? The manual says they do, but the manual also makes no reference to the Coax audio out on the 100's so I don't trust the book. Thanks in advance for the replies.

Can someone verify that both the HR20-100 and HR20-700 have TWO sets of RCA outputs? The manual says they do, but the manual also makes no reference to the Coax audio out on the 100's so I don't trust the book. Thanks in advance for the replies.
the -700:
Two sets of "yellow, red, & white"
One S-Video
One set Component [HD]
one HDMI
one Optical
the -100 adds one coax digital

Does the DirecTV HD receivers— models HR20 (100 & 700) and H20 have the connections to hook-up cable, satellite and HD OTA antenna? In other words, do they have connections for all three services?

SJV....I was hesitate about getting rid of my Samsung 160 HD receiver ....simply because it had coaxial in and out......But I decide to upgrade to the HR20 to replace the Samsung in my Bedroom....All I did was buy a RF modulator and ran an S-video(or you could use composite also) from the HR20 to the modulator......that way I could still send my signal to other parts of my house by coax cable!!

The HR20-100s passes DD5.1 through the HDMI -- I know this as my Onkyo 803 (note: several years old) assigns the audio TO the HDMI stream when you select HDMI as the video input. I haven't tried forcing OPT or COAX with an HDMI input, but then again, why should I.

On a similar note: I've noticed the optical connector on MY box is weak -- the TOSLINK connector actually will fall out of the HR20. I've used both a cheap one and a Monster-Cable but they're both loose. It's not the cable -- they both work fine on my Onkyo and HTPC. Should I have D* send a replacement box? It's only been in service 6 weeks!

I noticed the same thing on my box. It didn't snap in like it should. It would pull out rather easily.

another ?
I want to use my HR20-100 to feed two SD sets in other parts of the house. I have not checked, but I don't think there is a coax RF out on this unit. If that is the case, I plan to use my trusty 2000 model Radio shack RF converter which will convert RCA video/audio to Coax RF. This converter has a 75/1k ohm selector for the video. Which one should I choose?

The correct termination for composite video is 75 ohms. I would guess the 1k position is for bridged applications to prevent double termination.

The correct termination for composite video is 75 ohms. I would guess the 1k position is for bridged applications to prevent double termination.
Thanks, I have no idea what you mean for the 1k, but it seems 75 is what I need to set the modulator on.

Hey guys, I hope I'm not being too lazy here. I tried searching through this thread, but could not find any mention of my problem.

For the first time, I now have my HR20 hooked up via HDMI to an HDMI receiver. However, I cannot get Dolby Digital. I have no problems getting Dolby Digital to output when I connect via the optical.

Are there currently problems with HDMI outputting Dolby Digital that I am not aware of?

Thanks.

HDMI (High Definition Multimedia Interface) does carry audio to your television, but generally only 2ch. Some sets will pass thru 5.1 via optical or coax to your surround. Most receivers do not pick up the digital 5.1 track off HDMI unless they are very new, most pass thru video only and may pick up 2 ch sound off the HDMI. Check your receiver for details.
Short answer, yes 2 channel to your TV.
Long answer is to not use tv pass thru - but use direct cables (either optical or coax - coax is a choice on the hr20-100 not the 700) to your receiver and MAKE SURE you tell the HR20 in setup to output digital Surround - it is defaulted not to.

Wow, I must be blind. Just noticed the same question was answered two pages back. :o

Anyway, I have an HR20-700 which I believe is an older box. So it appears that the HDMI is not passing 5.1 to my receiver. You mention to check your receiver for details. Are you talking about the manual or is there something about this in the menu settings?

Do you think Directv would be willing to swap for a new one. I'm thinking they won't. They will probably tell me to just use the optical. Or they just won't understand what I am talking about at all.

Wow, I must be blind. Just noticed the same question was answered two pages back. :o

Anyway, I have an HR20-700 which I believe is an older box. So it appears that the HDMI is not passing 5.1 to my receiver. You mention to check your receiver for details. Are you talking about the manual or is there something about this in the menu settings?

Do you think Directv would be willing to swap for a new one. I'm thinking they won't. They will probably tell me to just use the optical. Or they just won't understand what I am talking about at all.
Try contacting your receiver manufacturer to see if it was designed to extract digital audio from the HDMI pass thru. My dad's new sony pass thru is for video and 2ch audio only. I just use the optical for his audio and there are no problems.

Wow, I must be blind. Just noticed the same question was answered two pages back. :o

Anyway, I have an HR20-700 which I believe is an older box. So it appears that the HDMI is not passing 5.1 to my receiver. You mention to check your receiver for details. Are you talking about the manual or is there something about this in the menu settings?

Do you think Directv would be willing to swap for a new one. I'm thinking they won't. They will probably tell me to just use the optical. Or they just won't understand what I am talking about at all.


Turn DD "on" in the setup/audio menu.


bob

Hey guys, I hope I'm not being too lazy here. I tried searching through this thread, but could not find any mention of my problem.

For the first time, I now have my HR20 hooked up via HDMI to an HDMI receiver. However, I cannot get Dolby Digital. I have no problems getting Dolby Digital to output when I connect via the optical.

Are there currently problems with HDMI outputting Dolby Digital that I am not aware of?

Thanks.

Must be your receiver, my Yamaha works fine on 5 or 2 channel audio, front display indicates HDMI audio receiving mode. Only problem is start up handshake must be right sequence but thats not your problem if your getting video & audio.

Roy

Thanks! I get it. Backward compatibility usually means akward solutions

5 LNBs, 2 poles = 10 choices. Even if the control voltages/ tone were used in combination it would only accomodate 4 choices.

So can you tell me how they do the 3 LNB multiswitch, which has to accomodate 6 choices?

Tony


Five LNBs with right & left hand polarized transponders being controlled by two voltages [13 & 18 volts] and a 22 kHz tone, that needs to be backward compatible.
So there are three frequency blocks, 250-750, 950-1450, & 1650-2150 MHz coming down the coax all of the time [or will be with the new Ka-lo channels coming].
13 & 18 volts pick the right & left hand polarized transponders and 22 kHz selects the 101 or 110 & 119 birds. This leaves the Ka-hi & Ka-lo to come down in the other frequency blocks than the Ku 950-1450 MHz.

Have had my HR20 DVR for several months. Just the last 2 days or so, it has become 'very lazy' changing from one channel to another. On some changeovers, it takes 4 or 5 seconds. This is not acceptable. If it does not 'speed up' (like it was) I shall ask for an exchange. Anyone else having this problem as of late?

If you're talking about the HR20, I haven't had that problem, but lately I get lots of audio drop outs, which I have not had any problems with in the year or so I've had the system.

Thanks! I get it. Backward compatibility usually means akward solutions

5 LNBs, 2 poles = 10 choices. Even if the control voltages/ tone were used in combination it would only accomodate 4 choices.

So can you tell me how they do the 3 LNB multiswitch, which has to accomodate 6 choices?

Tony
With the 3 LNB, they cheated as the C SAT has only three transponders and the B SAT only uses the upper tranponders so the "sum" the two. The 13/18 Volts with 22 kHz control both at once [in fact C SAT only works on even transponders so it's the 18 volt 22 kHz]
SAT B TP 22-32
SAT C TP 8, 10, 12
So there is no conflict in frequencies

If you're talking about the HR20, I haven't had that problem, but lately I get lots of audio drop outs, which I have not had any problems with in the year or so I've had the system.

..And, I, too, also get audio dropouts..lasting 3 to 5 seconds. I will exchange my DVR for another one if these problems persists. I never had this trouble with my previous non-recorder receiver from Directv.

Have had my HR20 DVR for several months. Just the last 2 days or so, it has become 'very lazy' changing from one channel to another. On some changeovers, it takes 4 or 5 seconds. This is not acceptable. If it does not 'speed up' (like it was) I shall ask for an exchange. Anyone else having this problem as of late?
Try rebooting the HR20. Some people have posted messages on the dbstalk forum that say that has cured the problem.

I tried my B band converters today. Actually I put one in the line last week, but did it at the wall, not directlyconnected to the receiver. It showed no signal on any channel. I did the channel 499 test today with that one and all of the others I have but did it by connecting it to the receiver directly. I found out that all tested bad if I left the receiver on channel 499 before putting the converter in the line but if I put it in the line and then tuned to channel 499 all tested fine. Any comments, are they all good?

I tried my B band converters today. Actually I put one in the line last week, but did it at the wall, not directlyconnected to the receiver. It showed no signal on any channel. I did the channel 499 test today with that one and all of the others I have but did it by connecting it to the receiver directly. I found out that all tested bad if I left the receiver on channel 499 before putting the converter in the line but if I put it in the line and then tuned to channel 499 all tested fine. Any comments, are they all good?
BBC are directional so you must connect them in the same way they would be if connected to the back of the receiver [as they should be].
To "do" the channel 499 test, they need to be installed and then tuned to that channel. If you replace the BBC, then you need to tune to another channel and then back to 499, to send another "tune" command to the BBC.

I'm new to the HD DVR game (have had a Standard HD receiver since D* added HD channels a few years back). Couple of questions regarding the HR20 that I just ordered:

I was told that the HR20 outputs an HD signal via the Component AND the HDMI output at the SAME time (obviously the same channel. Is this true? If so, I plan on running cables directly upstairs to my Bedroom TV to enjoy HD there as well as downstairs.

Does the box and Remote already come configured to work via RF? Please see the above question as to why I'm asking.

BBC are directional so you must connect them in the same way they would be if connected to the back of the receiver [as they should be].
To "do" the channel 499 test, they need to be installed and then tuned to that channel. If you replace the BBC, then you need to tune to another channel and then back to 499, to send another "tune" command to the BBC.

So the tuning issue is important. D* did not ask about direction when I called and said i lost signal, but there is that whole Stockholm thing, (see last week's ? commentary)

I'm new to the HD DVR game (have had a Standard HD receiver since D* added HD channels a few years back). Couple of questions regarding the HR20 that I just ordered:

I was told that the HR20 outputs an HD signal via the Component AND the HDMI output at the SAME time (obviously the same channel. Is this true? If so, I plan on running cables directly upstairs to my Bedroom TV to enjoy HD there as well as downstairs.

Does the box and Remote already come configured to work via RF? Please see the above question as to why I'm asking.
The HR20-100 (which I have) will output HD via HDMI and component at the same time, so you can feed to HD sets. Easier to run a lung HDMI and a short Component, but you have your options. As for RF, you just have to go thru a few steps to set the remote to RF, it is IR out of the box. Get a 2nd remote from DTV and you'll save some steps around the house trying to remember which room you left it in.

Ok, I am getting a 2nd HR20 installed next week.
My 1st one is so nice, I am getting rid of my dual tuner SD DTV Tivo unit.
I currently have a slimline 5lnb dish with 4 coaxials leaving the dish. Same four go into my multi switch, then 2 go to my existing HR20, the other 2 go to my existing Standard Def Tivo DTV receiver. Will the installer need to do anything other than a strait swap of the receiver? Is the same HD Feed making it to my SD Tivo as my HR20? Thanks in advance, trying to figure out if new wiring is needed.

Ok, I am getting a 2nd HR20 installed next week.
My 1st one is so nice, I am getting rid of my dual tuner SD DTV Tivo unit.
I currently have a slimline 5lnb dish with 4 coaxials leaving the dish. Same four go into my multi switch, then 2 go to my existing HR20, the other 2 go to my existing Standard Def Tivo DTV receiver. Will the installer need to do anything other than a strait swap of the receiver? Is the same HD Feed making it to my SD Tivo as my HR20? Thanks in advance, trying to figure out if new wiring is needed.

You are good to go, should be a straight swap out :)

Depending on cable [maker] isn't the "tip" the same or smaller than the size of three coax?
Smaller than three coaxes combined, but I don't think it's smaller than each coax. Well, it's flatter, but...

From what I remember when I was running coax and cat6 all over my house, I couldn't find online any standard wallplate insert things for HDMI. I think that's mainly because HDMI is flat, but the long dimension is too long for the typical wallplate "keystone" hole.
ie.. these mix and match things:
http://www.smarthome.com/86816w.html

I guess these types of things are available now, though the price and space efficiency seems goofy:
http://www.impactacoustics.com/product_list.asp?cat%5Fid=3217

I'm going to have to plop down the money soon for something like this for my basement that's finally starting to get finished.

Smaller than three coaxes combined, but I don't think it's smaller than each coax. Well, it's flatter, but...

From what I remember when I was running coax and cat6 all over my house, I couldn't find online any standard wallplate insert things for HDMI. I think that's mainly because HDMI is flat, but the long dimension is too long for the typical wallplate "keystone" hole.
ie.. these mix and match things:
http://www.smarthome.com/86816w.html

I guess these types of things are available now, though the price and space efficiency seems goofy:
http://www.impactacoustics.com/product_list.asp?cat%5Fid=3217

I'm going to have to plop down the money soon for something like this for my basement that's finally starting to get finished.
Monoprice.com has loads of wall plates for HDMI now (plus just about anything else you could need and their prices are great)

Hey, quick question to those that have upgraded to the HR-20. I have an older Hughes DirecTivo unit (SD) and I'm trying to upgrade to the HR-20 and the new 5-LNB dish.

What should I expect to pay? I was able to get them to offer me the HR-20 for $100 + S/H. I have heard that people are getting them for just S/H, but are those people upgrading from other HD-DVR units? Or is that an upgrade that anyone can get if they talk to the right person? Should I just take the $100 + S/H deal?

I'm a 10-year D* customer.

Hey, quick question to those that have upgraded to the HR-20. I have an older Hughes DirecTivo unit (SD) and I'm trying to upgrade to the HR-20 and the new 5-LNB dish.

What should I expect to pay? I was able to get them to offer me the HR-20 for $100 + S/H. I have heard that people are getting them for just S/H, but are those people upgrading from other HD-DVR units? Or is that an upgrade that anyone can get if they talk to the right person? Should I just take the $100 + S/H deal?

I'm a 10-year D* customer.
I went from 2 SD Tivos to 1 SD Tivo + 1HR20 and got it for the S&H only. I liked the 1st HR20 so much, I wanted to replace my old SD Tivo - For the 2nd HR 20 - I paid $99 plus s&h. If I were you, I'd push for the freebie, mention you may go to Dish, Time Warner, whatever... but for long time customers they are pretty flexible (oh yeah, I also got 3 mos Free HD and 3 mos Free Showtime on top of the Free HR20 just for asking...

I'm getting a satellite 99(b) failure. All my channels appear to work ok, including HD locals and I'm getting a "searching for satellite" message on ch 499. Is this normal or should I call D* and get a tech back out?

I'm getting a satellite 99(b) failure. All my channels appear to work ok, including HD locals and I'm getting a "searching for satellite" message on ch 499. Is this normal or should I call D* and get a tech back out?Read the description ON ch. 499 -- I believe when you get that message (as the screen and NOT the DVR) you have the correct configuration. You'd think D* would change the screen to something like YOU'RE READY FOR HD would be a more profound message :-)

Hey, quick question to those that have upgraded to the HR-20. I have an older Hughes DirecTivo unit (SD) and I'm trying to upgrade to the HR-20 and the new 5-LNB dish.

What should I expect to pay? I was able to get them to offer me the HR-20 for $100 + S/H. I have heard that people are getting them for just S/H, but are those people upgrading from other HD-DVR units? Or is that an upgrade that anyone can get if they talk to the right person? Should I just take the $100 + S/H deal?

I'm a 10-year D* customer.

I have an old Zenith HD SAT-520 HD Receiver that I bought from Circuit City years ago. I called yesterday and was able to get the HR20 for S&H. However, it's a Refurbished unit, which I don't mind.

Read the description ON ch. 499 -- I believe when you get that message (as the screen and NOT the DVR) you have the correct configuration. You'd think D* would change the screen to something like YOU'RE READY FOR HD would be a more profound message :-)

if you have the b band converter in the line (oriented correctly) and you get the searching for satellite message on channel 499 you are okay. If the b band converter is bad or you do not have a ba band converter in the line when you tune to channel 499, the screen changes to you do not have a b band converter contact us-------

Yes, it would be wonderful if it said your b band converter is fine you are good to go once we turn on the new HD channlels, but see previous posts referring to D* reps and Stockholm.

Now my local HD channels are down. I'm on the phone with tech support now going through the usual "reset this, reset that" stuff. Anything else I can try?

Hey, quick question to those that have upgraded to the HR-20. I have an older Hughes DirecTivo unit (SD) and I'm trying to upgrade to the HR-20 and the new 5-LNB dish.

What should I expect to pay? I was able to get them to offer me the HR-20 for $100 + S/H. I have heard that people are getting them for just S/H, but are those people upgrading from other HD-DVR units? Or is that an upgrade that anyone can get if they talk to the right person? Should I just take the $100 + S/H deal?

I'm a 10-year D* customer.

I got the Hr-20 and 5-lnb w/ installation for s/h only. I am a 7 yr customer, but also have subscribed to NFL, NBA, and MLB season tickets. Maybe that makes a difference. Also, the rep had to 'check with her manager' to approve this rate. Maybe the old used car routine, but I don't see a reason for that - I was planning to upgrade anyway. I asked for her best deal, and kept pointing out what a great customer I've been, and that I'm off any contract currently.

Turn DD "on" in the setup/audio menu.


bob

This wasn't the problem. As I mentioned, I can get DD through optical, just not HDMI. So it is the receiver.

I decided not to make a big deal out of it and just use the optical for sound. It's not like Directv would ever start sending through HD audio. That is simply too much bandwith.

Thanks for the help.

I'm getting a satellite 99(b) failure. All my channels appear to work ok, including HD locals and I'm getting a "searching for satellite" message on ch 499. Is this normal or should I call D* and get a tech back out?

My Installer said he always gets a Sat 99 falure during initial setup.
When tested again later it had a good signal. Sorry that's all he said.
Rob

How much is DirecTV charging to come out and upgrade a 3LNB to a 5LNB and add the two Baseband Converters for a HR20? Is there a commitment associated with the upgrade?

How much is DirecTV charging to come out and upgrade a 3LNB to a 5LNB and add the two Baseband Converters for a HR20? Is there a commitment associated with the upgrade?
I ordered yesterday. I'm sure others could do better than me but here's mine:
- 2 year commitment, about $200 total
- swap to 5LNB and appropriate number of BBCs
- swap HD receiver with H20
- replace HDTivo with HR20, and I get to keep the HDTivo

How big are these base-band converters and can they be put in the attic or closet (as opposed to being right next to each receiver)? The reason I'm asking is that I'm working on a remodel and will need to set aside space for however many of them I'll need in my AV 'closet'.. If I've only got one HD Directivo (HR10-250) and one SD DirecTivo (older Sony model), how many base-band converters are needed? Thankx!

How big are these base-band converters and can they be put in the attic or closet (as opposed to being right next to each receiver)? The reason I'm asking is that I'm working on a remodel and will need to set aside space for however many of them I'll need in my AV 'closet'.. If I've only got one HD Directivo (HR10-250) and one SD DirecTivo (older Sony model), how many base-band converters are needed? Thankx!
Well if those are your receivers, you won't need any.
They are quite small maybe 2" x 6", but are only used with the H/HR-20 line as they are the only MPEG-4 receivers that can receive the new SAT signals coming from the SATs in the 99 & 103 slots.

Yeah but my installer I had out recently when we moved down the street for the remodel suggested ditching the HR10-250 and moving to the 5LNB dish setup with the HR20's.. Not that I'm going to do that now -- I like my HR10-250.. However, for the future... If I had one of those, do I only need one BBC and where does it normally get mounted? I'm going to assume in the attic where the multiswitches normally go as well (at least for me)..

It is small like the prior poster saidm they are mounted between your coax and the box. You need one per coax in to your receiver. So on an HR20 you'd need 2, if you have a H20 - just one. If you have room for an extra long AA battery, that would cover the size of each converter... Don't fret about giving up the Tivo, I was a die hard tivo fan and now have very little complaints about the new box.. Very few minor issues like lack of a dual buffer and the list going to the top instead of where you last watched from - the new chanel line up makes it worth it to me to have the new unit

Not that I'm going to do that now -- I like my HR10-250.. However, for the future...


If you want to receive the new HD channels starting next month, You'll need the Hr20 with the B Band Converters.
Rob

BBCs come with the receivers that can use them.

If you want to receive the new HD channels starting next month, You'll need the Hr20 with the B Band Converters.
Rob

That's fine .. I don't even have the HD package anymore -- all of my HD is coming via OTA which works fine for us.. I occasionally find that there might be some show I'd like to watch on some of the D* HD channels, but not horribly often -- certainly not enough to justify the cost of the package every month. I'll probably turn it back on at some point, but for now my HR10-250 is fine. I just wanted to make sure I didn't need something odd from an installation point of view when the time comes to replace the 10-250 with something newer.

The title may appear stupid, but I had the install done on the 5LNB slimline dish this past weekend with the new HR2-100. Only 3 LNB slots were occupied with 2 absent. Is this what everyone else has installed?

Thanks.

The title may appear stupid, but I had the install done on the 5LNB slimline dish this past weekend with the new HR2-100. Only 3 LNB slots were occupied with 2 absent. Is this what everyone else has installed?

Thanks.
I asked the exact same question last month.
Apparently, LNB #3 is actually 3 LNB's in one unit.

I asked the exact same question last month.
Apparently, LNB #3 is actually 3 LNB's in one unit.

Ah, thanks. My search for such information failed me. Good to know I am good to go, versus a messed up install. Comforting......

I ordered yesterday. I'm sure others could do better than me but here's mine:
- 2 year commitment, about $200 total
- swap to 5LNB and appropriate number of BBCs
- swap HD receiver with H20
- replace HDTivo with HR20, and I get to keep the HDTivo

Thanks. The reason I asked the question is because when I called DirecTV about this a couple of weeks ago, the CSR I spoke with had to go ask someone and I was told the upgrade was "free" and that there was "no term commitment". I found it hard to believe. And I don't really trust DirecTV since in the past, they've claimed I had a term commitment when I was totally unaware of it.

If the cost is $200 and 2 years, then I'll be moving to FiOS.

does anyone know what version of HDMI is in the HR20? Is it 1.1 or 1.2 or 1.3?

BBCs come with the receivers that can use them.

I have an HR20 and new 5LNB dish coming next week. This will include the (2)BBCs, or will I need to call back and specifically ask for them? I wouldn't think so, but thought I'd ask. I see there are (2) 5LNB dishes on D*'s website. Will either of the two work? I would assume with new orders, they are installing the Slimline?

I have an HR20 and new 5LNB dish coming next week. This will include the (2)BBCs, or will I need to call back and specifically ask for them? I wouldn't think so, but thought I'd ask. I see there are (2) 5LNB dishes on D*'s website. Will either of the two work? I would assume with new orders, they are installing the Slimline?
I think it's yes to everything.
The BBCs come with the receivers and the slimline is the current 5 LNB dish.

Is there anything I can do to limit the way commercials are received at ear shattering decibel levels?

If you have a DVR, why are you watching commercials?

I was watching Blues Brothers last night on one of the 70's channels and the audio synch was waaay off. I tried changing channels, pausing, etc and could not synch it. I am running HDMI for my video and toslink to my receiver for audio. Was this a bad dub, or is there a problem?

If you have a DVR, why are you watching commercials?

Maybe someone wants to go to the bathroom and the rest of the family would just like to wait without pushing the mute button.

Thanks. The reason I asked the question is because when I called DirecTV about this a couple of weeks ago, the CSR I spoke with had to go ask someone and I was told the upgrade was "free" and that there was "no term commitment". I found it hard to believe. And I don't really trust DirecTV since in the past, they've claimed I had a term commitment when I was totally unaware of it.

If the cost is $200 and 2 years, then I'll be moving to FiOS.
Yeah, it changes on a minute by minute basis. :rolleyes:

I have Fios phone, so I did consider Fios TV for a minute. I lined up the channels/receivers I'd get versus Verizon, and the cost was about $5 less per month to stay with DirecTV. I'm also uncertain how long I'll be at my current home. Plus D* will have more HD channels. And the HR20 from what I keep hearing is easily the best of the non-Tivos.

Of course SciFi-HD and USA-HD are finally coming. Right after the summer season when those channels have the only good non-reality programming that comes on TV! :(

For the 1st time last night I watched TNT-HD and was horrified at the horrible conversion they did on the X-Files (Anasazi ep from season 2 or 3).
Are the new HD Channels going to be like this? I know it is impossible to "convert" old stuff to HD, but I sure hope that the channels we are about to get will be concentrating on HD generated content (like Discovery HD) and not in showing old shows.
It seems that TNT took the X Files VHS- badly copied in to digital, then output in super stretch mode and hit the "upscale" button on their DVD player to give us "1080i" - This show was shot in 4:3 and it was nauseating to watch as the fishbowl effect was quite prevalent when the shots were panning around the desert and in the office.

For the 1st time last night I watched TNT-HD and was horrified at the horrible conversion they did on the X-Files (Anasazi ep from season 2 or 3).
Are the new HD Channels going to be like this? I know it is impossible to "convert" old stuff to HD, but I sure hope that the channels we are about to get will be concentrating on HD generated content (like Discovery HD) and not in showing old shows.
It seems that TNT took the X Files VHS- badly copied in to digital, then output in super stretch mode and hit the "upscale" button on their DVD player to give us "1080i" - This show was shot in 4:3 and it was nauseating to watch as the fishbowl effect was quite prevalent when the shots were panning around the desert and in the office.I posted a comment about this on the DirecTV Confirms 2007 HD channel additions (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=11269311&&#post11269311) thread about what these new HD channels will be...

It seems that TNT took the X Files VHS- badly copied in to digital, then output in super stretch mode and hit the "upscale" button on their DVD player to give us "1080i" - This show was shot in 4:3

Can't you just change the format to a 480i crop or pillar type output?
Would that make it better?
Rob

since the source is bad, you can't smush it back to normal, it would just be a small version of fishbowl presentation.

For the 1st time last night I watched TNT-HD and was horrified at the horrible conversion they did on the X-Files (Anasazi ep from season 2 or 3).
Are the new HD Channels going to be like this? I know it is impossible to "convert" old stuff to HD, but I sure hope that the channels we are about to get will be concentrating on HD generated content (like Discovery HD) and not in showing old shows.
It seems that TNT took the X Files VHS- badly copied in to digital, then output in super stretch mode and hit the "upscale" button on their DVD player to give us "1080i" - This show was shot in 4:3 and it was nauseating to watch as the fishbowl effect was quite prevalent when the shots were panning around the desert and in the office.

IMHO TNT-HD gets an F in interfering with customer control of the picture format. Instead of showing 4:3 programing in it's original format they use a non linear stretch mode that, as danmen pointed out, is nauseating. You can't even make the choice of pillar or stretch because they've screwed up the picture. When they were first added to the D* line up I was thrilled until I saw the picture. About that time they were frequently running a 4:3 cellulite commercial. It included a zoom of the cellulite butt of an overweight woman in a bikini. That view "enhanced" by their idea of HD conversion was enough to send you running out of the room, screaming, with your eyes covered. :eek:

BTW I emailed TNT about their HD format and was ignored... :confused:

When there is a 4:3 show on TNT that I want to watch/record, I switch to 245 (TNT-SD) instead...

IMHO TNT-HD gets an F in interfering with customer control of the picture format. Instead of showing 4:3 programing in it's original format they use a non linear stretch mode that, as danmen pointed out, is nauseating. You can't even make the choice of pillar or stretch because they've screwed up the picture. When they were first added to the D* line up I was thrilled until I saw the picture. About that time they were frequently running a 4:3 cellulite commercial. It included a zoom of the cellulite butt of an overweight woman in a bikini. That view "enhanced" by their idea of HD conversion was enough to send you running out of the room, screaming, with your eyes covered. :eek:

BTW I emailed TNT about their HD format and was ignored... :confused:

When there is a 4:3 show on TNT that I want to watch/record, I switch to 245 (TNT-SD) instead...Can you imagine if ALL the new Turner HD channels do this for SD content???? They'll lose me as a viewer... I can't stand it...

I was able to get both my H10-250s upgraded to HR20s for $99 including slimline dish, so I can't really complain; I will be giving one of them to my dad (has 2 HDTVs and no HD receiver!) and the other to my mother in law :)

I really have to stop reading these D* threads, all these HD channels has me want to switch back (was a D* 3years ago). The only thing hold me back is the price of this HD DVR. I just don't have an extra $200 to spend and was hoping to convince D* to give me one for free (long shot but had to try). D* offered me an HD receiver for free but wouldn't even offer me a discount on the HD DVR (have to have a DVR, can't live without it). It's ashame, because I'd switch today if I didn't have to pay $200 for the DVR. Was really hoping to see some Braves games in HD on TBS in September. Man, you guys are going to love all these HD channels, I'm jealous, my cable provider shows zero interest in adding more HD channels.

hahah

Yea, because I bought all those at the exact same time just yesterday. Sorry, I'm not rich like you.

HD DVD/BD $19.99 - 24.99 vs DVR $200 Those prices are so close aren't they. Not to mention I traded in over half of my DVD collection to help pay for those movies so, don't act like you know what my financial situation is.

Your calling me cheap even though I've seen many people on these boards mention that they received the HR20 for free. I figured I'd give it a shot and it failed so, sue me.

dang you're a sensitive guy

my sincere apology, It was meant as a tongue in cheek remark and since it was not interpreted as such, I retract it. Did not mean to hurt your feelings.
Roll Tide!
Hopefully you can catch the Nick Saban HD Premiere on ESPN week 3 Bama v Arkansas!

Does anyone know if the the HR20 will change to a channel's native resolution automatically (like CBS uses 1080i and FOX/ABC/ESPN HD use 720p)?

You can use the menu. Go to Help & Settings -> Setup -> HDTV. The Video tab will let you set native on.

Need some help. My HR20 worked great up until about 3-4 weeks ago. Now on the HD channels only, we get constant audio drop outs and picture freezes (one second only). I have called D* and they told me to unhook the HR20, check the connections, etc. Total waste of time. Was there a system upgrade that could have caused this or do I need to go buy another one?

Thanks bakers.. I'm waiting my delivery of both my HR20s on sept 1(first sat available!)

I wonder with my set (toshiba 42 inch 1080p) if it would be better to set native or force 1080i (which would internally scale to 1080p I think)?

Need some help. My HR20 worked great up until about 3-4 weeks ago. Now on the HD channels only, we get constant audio drop outs and picture freezes (one second only). I have called D* and they told me to unhook the HR20, check the connections, etc. Total waste of time. Was there a system upgrade that could have caused this or do I need to go buy another one?
If you have the protection plan with DTV, they should furnish a new one. Either way, you are leasing the current one, so Call DTV and ask what your options are.

Does anyone know if the the HR20 will change to a channel's native resolution automatically (like CBS uses 1080i and FOX/ABC/ESPN HD use 720p)?As noted above, you can. It does slow down channel changing if the box has to thru 480i, 720p, 1080i. Also in the HR20 menu, I've deleted the 480p option...

I understand that (2) programs can be recorded at the same time. However, can (2) OTA channels be recorded at the same time with just the one Antenna cable into the box (does it split it internally?)?

I understand that (2) programs can be recorded at the same time. However, can (2) OTA channels be recorded at the same time with just the one Antenna cable into the box (does it split it internally?)?Yep...

Yep...

Great!! Thanks.

I just ordered my HR20 last night and am not thrilled to be getting rid of my old H10. Is there anyone who has the HR20 and likes it BETTER than the Tivo? The CSR with D* tried to convince me that she did but I am skeptical.

I just ordered my HR20 last night and am not thrilled to be getting rid of my old H10. Is there anyone who has the HR20 and likes it BETTER than the Tivo? The CSR with D* tried to convince me that she did but I am skeptical.
Not sure I'd say I like it Better, but it is a great DVR. We are all creatures of habit and few like change, but I can not say I am displeased with the HR20.
Required reading for you on this link...
http://www.dbstalk.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=6874&d=1166899660

I've had the hr20-100 for about a week now. I have to say it took a little bit to get over some of the subtle differences but I really don't miss my Tivo. My biggest fear was that the hr20 wasn't going to be as reliable as my Tivo was, but so far it hasn't missed a beat.

My only gripe with the hr20 is the 50 Series Link (season pass) limit. I really hope this is going to be addressed in a future update. Anyone know why D* put such a limit on their DVR?

My only gripe with the hr20 is the 50 Series Link (season pass) limit.

Where can you find the Season Pass list on the HR20?
it was easy to find on the HR10....

I just ordered my HR20 last night and am not thrilled to be getting rid of my old H10. Is there anyone who has the HR20 and likes it BETTER than the Tivo? The CSR with D* tried to convince me that she did but I am skeptical.I just made the switch. I felt the same way about it as you do. "Reluctant" barely covered my attitude.

I've got the HR20 a week ago today, and while I wouldn't say I like it better, the switch has been painless.

Oddly, the only thing I really miss is something that I've never seen mentioned. My HR10's remote would turn both my TV and A/V receiver on and off with one click; the HR20's remote requires separate actions for the TV and A/V receiver, and the A/V receiver usually requires two clicks. Not a big deal, but an annoyance because I liked the "one click" feature so well. (I always use the receiver when I watch TV, and never listen through the TV's own speakers.)

I will not like the 50 title limitation of the shows to record, but haven't had it long enough to bump into that limit yet.

Admittedly, there are some TiVo features it doesn't have, but for the most part they were things I rarely used. And it has a few features of it's own that are minor pluses. Overall, I wouldn't say either was better than the other, just different.

Bottom line is that I haven't missed my HR10 like I thought I would. And I'm at an age where I'm expected to resist change. ;)

Where can you find the Season Pass list on the HR20?
it was easy to find on the HR10....


On the hr20 it's called the "prioritizer". Press "list" then "yellow" and it will be in the menu on the left.

I just ordered my HR20 last night and am not thrilled to be getting rid of my old H10. Is there anyone who has the HR20 and likes it BETTER than the Tivo?

Let me put it this way, for me there are are more things I miss that the HR20 can do when I'm using my HR10 than vice versa.

I just ordered my HR20 today. Got it for $19.95 because my HR10 would freeze every once in a while..

I just ordered my HR20 today. Got it for $19.95 because my HR10 would freeze every once in a while..
I got mine for nothing too. I just talked to the rep and told her that I paid a thousand bucks for my Tivo and less than 3 years later I have to get rid of it. I told her that my Tivo was perfectly fine and that expanding the HD lineup is a charge that the service provider should assume, not the customer.

Is anybody out there with multiple HR20s? D* would only sell me 1 when I got the install done. Word on the street is if I buy a 2nd HR20 from a retail establishment D* has to activate service on it for me. Circuit City has the following disclaimer on their website:

Note: DIRECTV® services are sold separately. A maximum of six (6) receivers may be leased per year, but not more than two (2) DVR receivers, two (2) HD receivers and one (1) HD DVR receiver may by leased in a given year. On approved credit. A programming commitment is required and sold separately.

I'm thinking that CC only states that because that's the max that they can sell a customer according to their deal with D*. Does anybody know the truth? The fall TV season is fast approaching and 2 tuners in one HR20 won't cut it for me.

Thanks,
Isy

I leased #1 in mid june 2007, I am getting #2 installed tomorrow - both directly from DTV.
I suggest talking to retention and see what they are willing to do to keep you. Or, order #1 now, then call back in a few weeks and ask for #2... I got both mine for less than 1/6th of the asking price for 2.

Can anyone out there say if they are using an HR20 with a 50' run of HDMI - I got the lesser priced monoprice 50' cable and wanted to make sure no one had issues before I get my 2nd HR20 installed... thanks

I can only speak to the 15', 24AWG variety I bought from RiteAV dot com which USED TO advertise here on the forum -- WHERE'D THEY GO???? It hooked up fine but then again, it's DIGITAL -- wouldn't it either work or not work?

I was quite impressed with the cable, and all their prices on various lengths, gages and adapters. They use PayPal and shipped quickly!

Danmen, I am running a 35' Monoprice HDMI cable with no problems. Hope this helps.

I can only speak to the 15', 24AWG variety I bought from RiteAV dot com which USED TO advertise here on the forum -- WHERE'D THEY GO???? It hooked up fine but then again, it's DIGITAL -- wouldn't it either work or not work?

I was quite impressed with the cable, and all their prices on various lengths, gages and adapters. They use PayPal and shipped quickly!

Yes, it either works or doesn't. However, if the distances are too great, it can introduce jitter into the digital stream. Or, if it's too far, the digital signal will be too week for the equipment on the other end to discern the differences between the 0s and 1s (i.e. doesn't work without a repeater)

danman, please post back and let us know how the 50' cable from Monoprice worked. I may very well using a 50' Monoprice cable in the near future.

Yes, it either works or doesn't. However, if the distances are too great, it can introduce jitter into the digital stream. Or, if it's too far, the digital signal will be too week for the equipment on the other end to discern the differences between the 0s and 1s (i.e. doesn't work without a repeater)

danman, please post back and let us know how the 50' cable from Monoprice worked. I may very well using a 50' Monoprice cable in the near future.
I'll let you know tomorrow...

on a lark, I went ahead and plugged HR20 #1 which is usually connected to a philips 42" 1080p with the DTV supplied short HDMI cable. I plugged the 50' monoprice in and got zilch!
The Philips manual says you need to limit HDMI cable length to 5'... The one I need connected is a refurb vizio 32" which is in a different room from where HR20 #2 is going...
If I can't get the cable to work, can anyone vouch for the HR20 being in a completely enclosed cabinet? Will it burst into flames? My main HR20 runs pretty hot and it has breathing room on all sides. Will an HR20 inside of a cabinet with minimal airflow be a problem? It will have several inches on all sides, but will be behind closed doors...

edit:
50' HDMI works fine on the above set, I had the wrong input selected :confused:
Anyway, for those who are thinking of trying it, I would say it is fine... may be a tad less quality than the 5' run, but since this in going to a 32" set (instead of my main 42") I am not concerned.

I tried doing a search on this, but not coming up with any answers about the HR20. I'm looking to get one to record HD content, but I'm not sure about the deal with the DVR subscription to D*.

1. Do I need some DVR subscription to actually record HD content on the HR20 if I already have the HD package?

2. If so, how much is the DVR package and is it per HR20 reciever?

Thanks in advance for any answers. :)

I tried doing a search on this, but not coming up with any answers about the HR20. I'm looking to get one to record HD content, but I'm not sure about the deal with the DVR subscription to D*.

1. Do I need some DVR subscription to actually record HD content on the HR20 if I already have the HD package?

2. If so, how much is the DVR package and is it per HR20 reciever?

Thanks in advance for any answers. :)
1. Yes, you need the DIRECTV DVR Service.

2. $5.99/month - No, it is a single monthly charge on your account no matter how many DVRs you have.

There is also a $4.99/month lease fee for each additional receiver of any type you have after the first one.

Thanks for the info.

1. Yes, you need the DIRECTV DVR Service.

2. $5.99/month - No, it is a single monthly charge on your account no matter how many DVRs you have.

There is also a $4.99/month lease fee for each additional receiver of any type you have after the first one.

Thanks bakers.. I'm waiting my delivery of both my HR20s on sept 1(first sat available!)

I wonder with my set (toshiba 42 inch 1080p) if it would be better to set native or force 1080i (which would internally scale to 1080p I think)?

Your Toshiba will scale everything to 1080p regardless of your D* box setting. You might consider leaving the HR20 on native (Stretch) because your SD channels will look quite natural in 16:9 when using the TheaterWide 1 picture setting on your Toshiba. Whatever modality they employ takes the 4:3 input and converts it without over zooming or creating the "fat face" anomaly.

In my experience, sending an SD signal out of the HR20 in 1080i is O.K. for signals that are HD source, but the 16:9 SD converted signal will overzoom on your tv. Just my observations. YMMV.

....edit:
50' HDMI works fine on the above set, I had the wrong input selected :confused:
Anyway, for those who are thinking of trying it, I would say it is fine... may be a tad less quality than the 5' run, but since this in going to a 32" set (instead of my main 42") I am not concerned.

danmen,

Thanks for posting on your findings. That's good information to know. If the 50' cable works, your picture will look the same as the 5' cable. It's digital, 1s and 0s. If your HR20 can discern the 1s and 0s from the long cable, you will get a picture. If it cannot discern them, you will not (or see the blocking on and off as it tries to lock in). The issue is whether you do or do not get a picture. You sound good to go!!

danmen,

Thanks for posting on your findings. That's good information to know. If the 50' cable works, your picture will look the same as the 5' cable. It's digital, 1s and 0s. If your HR20 can discern the 1s and 0s from the long cable, you will get a picture. If it cannot discern them, you will not (or see the blocking on and off as it tries to lock in). The issue is whether you do or do not get a picture. You sound good to go!!
For the record, I got the "cheapest" 50' HDMI from monoprice.

Is anybody out there with multiple HR20s? D* would only sell me 1 when I got the install done. Word on the street is if I buy a 2nd HR20 from a retail establishment D* has to activate service on it for me. Circuit City has the following disclaimer on their website:

Note: DIRECTV® services are sold separately. A maximum of six (6) receivers may be leased per year, but not more than two (2) DVR receivers, two (2) HD receivers and one (1) HD DVR receiver may by leased in a given year. On approved credit. A programming commitment is required and sold separately.

I'm thinking that CC only states that because that's the max that they can sell a customer according to their deal with D*. Does anybody know the truth? The fall TV season is fast approaching and 2 tuners in one HR20 won't cut it for me.

Thanks,
Isy

I just had two HR20's installed. One from DTV (HR20-100) that they gave me a $100 price break, the other one (HR20-700) I bought off Ebay for a few dollars more, but a lot cheaper than what CC or BB want for them. DTV did the dish and install for the first one, I did the second one myself. I an very happy with the HR20-100, but I have issues with the HR20-700: it runs hot, no RF control, it is noisy, output from HDMI in Native mode flickers, and the image doesn't quite fit the screen on HD channels showing 4:3 material so that "noise" appears at the top of the screen. I called DTV and complained about the problems with the 700 and they are sending a replacement. It better be the -100 cause the 700 is not up to par.

I just had two HR20's installed. One from DTV (HR20-100) that they gave me a $100 price break, the other one (HR20-700) I bought off Ebay for a few dollars more, but a lot cheaper than what CC or BB want for them. DTV did the dish and install for the first one, I did the second one myself. I an very happy with the HR20-100, but I have issues with the HR20-700: it runs hot, no RF control, it is noisy, output from HDMI in Native mode flickers, and the image doesn't quite fit the screen on HD channels showing 4:3 material so that "noise" appears at the top of the screen. I called DTV and complained about the problems with the 700 and they are sending a replacement. It better be the -100 cause the 700 is not up to par.
What kind of TV are you running your 700 to? I ask because the HD 4:3 noise is not the problem of the 700, rather the 700 is just sending the garbage it is getting from the network... most tv's have a slight overscan feature that nudges the garbage off the frame without distorting the aspect ratio...

I just ordered my HR20 today. Got it for $19.95 because my HR10 would freeze every once in a while..

do they let you own it for $19.95 a one time fee or is it leased? i am thinking of coming over from the hd tivo, but is this fee a flat fee or is it a monthly fee to use the box? just a little confused. thanks.

All new directv receivers are leased, not owned, the fee folks are mentioning here is the one time cost to "upgrade" to the device, the DVR fee is $5.99 (or $6.99 I can't remember) per month - the same as your Tivo and is not per DVR, so if you have multiple DVR's the DVR fee is only charged once, plus the $4.99/month mirroring fee for each receiver in the house beyond the 1st one. One major plus of the HR20 over the Tivo model is the ability to simulaneously output SD and HD at the same time. In theory, you can feed 2 HD's and 3 SD sets at the same time - they would all be watching the same thing, but still, it's kind of a nice feature.
HDTV 1 via HDMI out
HDTV 2 via Component out
SD 1 via Composite out
SD 2 via S Video

I have a 2nd Remote for an HR20 and want to program it to RF (the 1st one already is)... how do I do that?

I have a 2nd Remote for an HR20 and want to program it to RF (the 1st one already is)... how do I do that?

You can download the manual from DTV's website.

I have a 2nd Remote for an HR20 and want to program it to RF (the 1st one already is)... how do I do that?On the second remote:
1) Put the slide switch in the DirecTV position (far left)
2) Hold down mute and select together until the light flashes twice
3) Press 961 and channel up (the light should flash twice again)
4) Press the last 6 digits of the HR20 receiver ID that is already set to RF and press Select (The receiver ID is found on the Info & Test menu and/or on a sticker inside the card access door)

On the second remote:
1) Put the slide switch in the DirecTV position (far left)
2) Hold down mute and select together until the light flashes twice
3) Press 961 and channel up (the light should flash twice again)
4) Press the last 6 digits of the HR20 receiver ID that is already set to RF and press Select (The receiver ID is found on the Info & Test menu and/or on a sticker inside the card access door)
Thanks, I was/am far too lazy to read the manual when I can get info like this from the board!!

Thanks, I was/am far too lazy to read the manual when I can get info like this from the board!!You're welcome.

HI Guys I have been away for a while. I have been holding off getting the High Def Dvr from Directv for a few mos. I check every once in a while to see what the deal is via the Directv Website. It used to be $199.00 for me to upgrade to the Dvr. (I presently have a RCA DTC 210 receiver. I have been waiting around hoping they get the Bugs out of it. Now I check and the upgrade is $299!! I dont need locals I am just trying to be prepared for the new Channels. I have been with Directv for 10 years. I would jump to dish in a minute if it wasn't for the Sunday Ticket. Will I be able to get a better deal if I call. I HATE TO CALL DIRECTV!!!

Thanks
Spiker :(

I hate to call too, but it was worth it. They upgraded me with no hassle, and only the $20 S&H fee. All I had to do was ask for the HR20, I didn't even mention price.

Just got a new HR20-700 for signing up for Sunday Ticket. I already recieved one free a year ago so now I have 2. I was wondering if theres a capability to link them together so that I can access the "list" of shows on either of the DVR's from seperate rooms? I imagine this topic has been discussed somewhere in this thread but I don't have 3 weeks to navigate through 115 pages. Anyways, I guess I will start searching through this thread for the answers.

Thank You

Thanks to the prior poster directing me to http://www.ezremote.com/setupcodehelp/DTV/Result.php
for code finding on my Apex SD set... I got the HR20 remote to work the power and volume, but can't get the 960 code to do input.... any suggestions... on my Old Tivo DSR708, there was a special code find on the remote where you could cycle thru all the options to find your code, and it worked... does the HR20 RF remote have this function?

Just got a new HR20-700 for signing up for Sunday Ticket. I already recieved one free a year ago so now I have 2. I was wondering if theres a capability to link them together so that I can access the "list" of shows on either of the DVR's from seperate rooms?No, the HR20 does not offer that feature.

I hate to call too, but it was worth it. They upgraded me with no hassle, and only the $20 S&H fee. All I had to do was ask for the HR20, I didn't even mention price.

I am very glad I had canceled my second HR20 install. I was getting it for $199 plus $20, and all I see now are folks getting them for the $20 processing. Now I guess I just have to call and wait until they're ready to give one to me for $20.

HI Guys I have been away for a while. I have been holding off getting the High Def Dvr from Directv for a few mos. I check every once in a while to see what the deal is via the Directv Website. It used to be $199.00 for me to upgrade to the Dvr. (I presently have a RCA DTC 210 receiver. I have been waiting around hoping they get the Bugs out of it. Now I check and the upgrade is $299!! I dont need locals I am just trying to be prepared for the new Channels. I have been with Directv for 10 years. I would jump to dish in a minute if it wasn't for the Sunday Ticket. Will I be able to get a better deal if I call. I HATE TO CALL DIRECTV!!!

Thanks
Spiker :(

I was in the same boat. I had problems with my HR10-250 HDMI connection and wanted to upgrade to the HR20. After getting through to retention, they offered to upgrade ALL of my HD receivers for one 19.95 shipping charge. I almost got the impression that this was the new policy for current subscribers using MPEG 2 equipment. She was clear that they all needed to be upgraded at the same time for me to get this deal. It kicked in another 2 yr commitment but I have no plans on leaving. It also included the 5 lnb dish and free installation.

On the second remote:
1) Put the slide switch in the DirecTV position (far left)
2) Hold down mute and select together until the light flashes twice
3) Press 961 and channel up (the light should flash twice again)
4) Press the last 6 digits of the HR20 receiver ID that is already set to RF and press Select (The receiver ID is found on the Info & Test menu and/or on a sticker inside the card access door)

I was wondering whether the HR20 remote could work in RF. This isn't in the manual (I don't believe - may be wrong), so thanks!

One question: any downside to using RF vs optical? Since RF expands the range, it's hard to imagine why this wouldn't be the default setting, so I figure I am missing some downside. Thanks! - Paul M.

I was wondering whether the HR20 remote could work in RF. This isn't in the manual (I don't believe - may be wrong), so thanks!

One question: any downside to using RF vs optical? Since RF expands the range, it's hard to imagine why this wouldn't be the default setting, so I figure I am missing some downside. Thanks! - Paul M.AFAIK, the remote default setting is IR only because that is the type of remote most consumers are familiar with.

The manual for the HR20 does direct you to the HR20 onscreen menus if you want to set the remote to operate with your HR20 in the RF mode.

The procedure I outlined above is not in the manual and works for an HR20 that may already be set up in RF mode with another remote.

To set up the first remote in RF mode, of course you can just follow the onscreen menu directions. :)

I ran the channel 499 test and got the "Searching for satellite signal In 1" result. While still on that channel, I ran a system test and a signal strength test. When all cleared and channel 499 was back, it said I needed new b-band converters. I reset the receiver, went to 499 and all was OK again. Any idea what happened. I ordered two new converters for my HR-20 from the D* website just in case.

Jim

ps By the way, on the signal strength test, I only got values other 0 on tuner 2 for the 99 and 103 satellite.

I ran the channel 499 test and got the "Searching for satellite signal In 1" result. While still on that channel, I ran a system test and a signal strength test. When all cleared and channel 499 was back, it said I needed new b-band converters. I reset the receiver, went to 499 and all was OK again. Any idea what happened. I ordered two new converters for my HR-20 from the D* website just in case.

Jim

ps By the way, on the signal strength test, I only got values other 0 on tuner 2 for the 99 and 103 satellite.


My guess on the signal strength is that you only had 1 b band converter attached, as for the other, the test is only valid if you are tuned to a channel other than 499 and then tune to it. If you are on 499 and try to switch b band converters it will tell you the converter is bad.

I was wondering whether the HR20 remote could work in RF. This isn't in the manual (I don't believe - may be wrong), so thanks!

One question: any downside to using RF vs optical? Since RF expands the range, it's hard to imagine why this wouldn't be the default setting, so I figure I am missing some downside. Thanks! - Paul M.
I am 99% sure that RF is only an option on the HR20-100's not the 700's....
The engineers on this machine were a little odd in this design though. They make you choose between RF and IR, not both at the same time. The very old school high end SD RCA Directv receivers had a simultaneous RF/IR remote, so I am not sure why this is a forced choice.
The downside that I found, is that if you want to use a Harmony (or any other universal IR remote) in the main room you must have the receiver set to IR, because turning it to RF means the Universal IR won't work... It is a tad annoying as I have my main room HR20 set up with a Harmony, but it also runs to my PC (via a slingbox) and it would be nice for me to be able to use the RF from the other room, but I can't so I have to use the slow IR blaster on the Slingbox...
Bascially, if not using a universal remote, no harm in having it on RF, but I can't figure out why they make you choose one or the other as it not that complicated to have both signals being sent and received at the same time..

I am 99% sure that RF is only an option on the HR20-100's not the 700's...The 700s have the option too. At least I was able to go through the setup menu to enable RF on my 700. Seemed to be successful, as that's how I discovered my RC64 doesn't support RF. The remote just quit working. :(

Had to reprogram it manually on the box, not as easy as it should have been as the HR20 is in an awkward location, which is why I wanted the RF to begin with. Oh well... Minor disappointment, but no big deal.

I don't know how one is supposed to tell the IR remote from the IR/RF one. The D* website gives no clue. In fact, they seem to use the same photo to illustrate both. At least it looks that way to me. Maybe smarter people can spot the difference.

The 700s have the option too. At least I was able to go through the setup menu to enable RF on my 700. Seemed to be successful, as that's how I discovered my RC64 doesn't support RF. The remote just quit working. :(

Had to reprogram it manually on the box, not as easy as it should have been as the HR20 is in an awkward location, which is why I wanted the RF to begin with. Oh well... Minor disappointment, but no big deal.

I don't know how one is supposed to tell the IR remote from the IR/RF one. The D* website gives no clue. In fact, they seem to use the same photo to illustrate both. At least it looks that way to me. Maybe smarter people can spot the difference.
Photos are the same but the label is different so you need to pick the RCxxRF

And yes both the -100 & -700 are RF capable

The 700s have the option too. At least I was able to go through the setup menu to enable RF on my 700. Seemed to be successful, as that's how I discovered my RC64 doesn't support RF. The remote just quit working. :(

Had to reprogram it manually on the box, not as easy as it should have been as the HR20 is in an awkward location, which is why I wanted the RF to begin with. Oh well... Minor disappointment, but no big deal.

I don't know how one is supposed to tell the IR remote from the IR/RF one. The D* website gives no clue. In fact, they seem to use the same photo to illustrate both. At least it looks that way to me. Maybe smarter people can spot the difference.Yes, the HR20-700 is RF capable as well, but has an internal remote antenna, vs. the external antenna on the HR20-100.

All of the RF remotes will have an FCC ID sticker on the back. The RC24 is IR only. The RC34 is IR/RF capable, while the RC32 is IR only, but the RC32RF is IR/RF capable and backlighted. For the RC64, there apparently are 3 models: RC64 (IR only) RC64R (IR/RF) and RC64RB (IR/RF and backlighted)

Yes, the HR20-700 is RF capable as well, but has an internal remote antenna, vs. the external antenna on the HR20-100.

All of the RF remotes will have an FCC ID sticker on the back. The RC24 is IR only. The RC34 is IR/RF capable, while the RC32 is IR only, but the RC32RF is IR/RF capable and backlighted. For the RC64, there apparently are 3 models: RC64 (IR only) RC64R (IR/RF) and RC64RB (IR/RF and backlighted)
RC24 is RF also.

...All of the RF remotes will have an FCC ID sticker on the back...(Slap head) Of course! I should have remembered that.
Photos are the same but the label is different so you need to pick the RCxxRFI suspected as much, but couldn't find a model number reference anywhere. There was no picking on my end, I just took what D* sent me. Beggars can't be choosers I guess, given the $20 S&H I paid for the whole installation is less than a remote costs separately.

I had managed to pick up the misapprehension that the current remotes were all RF capable, so just assumed mine was until I tried to use it that way.

Thanks for the clarifications, guys.

RC24 is RF also.Didn't know that, thanks for the correction. I knew the RC32 was IR only, so made an assumption I should not have made. ;)

ALL this talk about RF/IR and the various remotes.... When I built my house I installed an IR repeater to use with OneForAll remotes. I also am dabbling around with the JP1 interface and using my PC to configure/customize them to "do" the right equipment per room (e.g. Bedroom, Kitchen, Study...). I have a single HR20 and modulate one of its composite outputs to coax for the other sets in my house.

I mention this as an alternative to paying retail for D* remotes... these are less than 20-bucks each, and you can control up to six IR devices! That's MY solution.

Thanks to the prior poster directing me to http://www.ezremote.com/setupcodehelp/DTV/Result.php
for code finding on my Apex SD set... I got the HR20 remote to work the power and volume, but can't get the 960 code to do input.... any suggestions... on my Old Tivo DSR708, there was a special code find on the remote where you could cycle thru all the options to find your code, and it worked... does the HR20 RF remote have this function?

BUMP. Any help would be appreciated. I am looking for how to get my TV input function to work on my HR20 remote... I tried 960 and had no luck.

BUMP. Any help would be appreciated. I am looking for how to get my TV input function to work on my HR20 remote... I tried 960 and had no luck.

There is no "scanning" that I know of. You would need to try the various codes for your TV until you find the correct one.

I posted this elsewhere, but thought that perhaps this might be the best thread:

I had the 5-lnb Slimline dish installed yesterday with 2 HR20-700s. The tech was excellent, and did a great job.

I am receiving sat signal #'s on sats 101; 110 and 119 between 88-92 which I'm very happy with; but sat 99b shows 0 and sat 103a shows #'s of about 23. I live in a DMA that does not get mpeg4 local channels yet, and am assuming that is the reason why the signal on 103 is so poor, (as well as the new HD sat isn't broadcasting yet). Is my assumtion correct, or do I have a problem with the Ka band sats?

TIA,
Bish

Hello everyone! I 'm a newbie coming over from Dish. I have sched. instal for Tues. the 21st. I'm excited to be getting the sunday ticket for the first time going with the HR20 and the H20 in the bedroom. My question is, Will DTV remove all the existing Dish equip. i.e dish, cabling, LNB's, switches etc.. or will they use some of the left over components to speed up the install process? Secondly, my OTA ant. is right on top of the satellite dish, will DTV charge me extra to use for both recievers? Thanks Joe

I posted this elsewhere, but thought that perhaps this might be the best thread:

I had the 5-lnb Slimline dish installed yesterday with 2 HR20-700s. The tech was excellent, and did a great job.

I am receiving sat signal #'s on sats 101; 110 and 119 between 88-92 which I'm very happy with; but sat 99b shows 0 and sat 103a shows #'s of about 23. I live in a DMA that does not get mpeg4 local channels yet, and am assuming that is the reason why the signal on 103 is so poor, (as well as the new HD sat isn't broadcasting yet). Is my assumtion correct, or do I have a problem with the Ka band sats?

TIA,
BishDo you have the BBCs installed in-line the sat connections AT the back of the 700? Your installer should have done this. What do you see on ch-499?

I tried to change my HR20-100 remote to RF this weekend. It blinked when it was supposed to, but the change never stuck. Is there a reason why the RF mode would not take hold?

Thanks, Paul M.

Just upgraded from the tivo HR10 to the HR20. I have the 3 LNB dish. The CSR said I will not need the 5 LNB dish if I attach some sort of Ku converter. I t looks like 2 filters that attach to the imputs of the HR20. Will I be able to get the new HD channels?

Just upgraded from the tivo HR10 to the HR20. I have the 3 LNB dish. The CSR said I will not need the 5 LNB dish if I attach some sort of Ku converter. I t looks like 2 filters that attach to the imputs of the HR20. Will I be able to get the new HD channels?Are you kidding? YES... you need a new dish to get all the NEW HD channels... a SlimLine, 5LNB... and a new multiswitch (if needed) if you don't have the Zinwell WB68...

Do you have the BBCs installed in-line the sat connections AT the back of the 700? Your installer should have done this. What do you see on ch-499?

BBCs installed on both inputs. 499 shows 'searching for satellite signal'.

As I stated I don't get my locals in the mpeg4 format yet.

Bish

Just upgraded from the tivo HR10 to the HR20. I have the 3 LNB dish. The CSR said I will not need the 5 LNB dish if I attach some sort of Ku converter. I t looks like 2 filters that attach to the imputs of the HR20. Will I be able to get the new HD channels?The next time a CSR tells you that, tell them to please watch either channel 77 or 92 and take note of what equipment (including the correct dish) is required for the new channels. :)

Well this past weekend I did some serious fishing of component, coax, HDMI, power, and many other cables through my walls and attic. Anyways I spoke with a DirecTV Tech guy and he told me that the HR20's have had their USB and Ethernet ports activated and they are capable of being networked. He also told me that I could connect 1 HR20 in another room to my network router and then a different HR20 in another room to the network router and I can access the list shows from either of the HR20's in either room. NOW THAT'S EXACTLY WHAT IM LOOKING FOR! Time to run a network cable! This set up is going to be incredible.

Also, I was able to set up a TV in my master bedroom, and then a TV in my master bath all coming from the same HR20 in my master bedroom dresser. One is connected via HDMI and one is connected via the component. I have a HR20-700 and it is on radio frequency nicely hidden away. You do not see a cable anywhere, everything hidden in the walls and attic and TV's mounted on the wall. It really can't get better than that, I love the HR20's.

Well this past weekend I did some serious fishing of component, coax, HDMI, power, and many other cables through my walls and attic. Anyways I spoke with a DirecTV Tech guy and he told me that the HR20's have had their USB and Ethernet ports activated and they are capable of being networked. He also told me that I could connect 1 HR20 in another room to my network router and then a different HR20 in another room to the network router and I can access the list shows from either of the HR20's in either room. NOW THAT'S EXACTLY WHAT IM LOOKING FOR! Time to run a network cable! This set up is going to be incredible.

Also, I was able to set up a TV in my master bedroom, and then a TV in my master bath all coming from the same HR20 in my master bedroom dresser. One is connected via HDMI and one is connected via the component. I have a HR20-700 and it is on radio frequency nicely hidden away. You do not see a cable anywhere, everything hidden in the walls and attic and TV's mounted on the wall. It really can't get better than that, I love the HR20's.

There have been a lot of posts about networking on this thread and I don't recall seeing the ethernet network router capability you described as active at the moment. I would not take the D* tech people at their word, they are not necessarily the sharpest knives in the drawer.

There have been a lot of posts about networking on this thread and I don't recall seeing the ethernet network router capability you described as active at the moment. I would not take the D* tech people at their word, they are not necessarily the sharpest knives in the drawer.

Good point. Well, I am going to test it out before I go through the hassle of running the cable. I will let you know how it turns out. I guess I shouldn't expect much but I can hope!

Hello everyone! I 'm a newbie coming over from Dish. I have sched. instal for Tues. the 21st. I'm excited to be getting the sunday ticket for the first time going with the HR20 and the H20 in the bedroom. My question is, Will DTV remove all the existing Dish equip. i.e dish, cabling, LNB's, switches etc.. or will they use some of the left over components to speed up the install process? Secondly, my OTA ant. is right on top of the satellite dish, will DTV charge me extra to use for both recievers? Thanks Joe

When we switched from Dish to D*, they removed the dish only, to replace with the new one. They left all the cables and anything else in place. The D* installer wouldn't use any of Dish's stuff to expedite install. He even ran a new ground wire. HTH

Good point. Well, I am going to test it out before I go through the hassle of running the cable. I will let you know how it turns out. I guess I shouldn't expect much but I can hope!
The HR-20 can be networked, but as yet there isn't "multi-room viewing" capable, so all that can happen is having a slide show & music from a PC.

I have the HR10-250 and was thinking about upgrading to the HR20. According to their website, the only extra fee is for the $9.99 HD Access. Does this mean the DVR servce fee would stop and my bill would actually be less?

The same DVR fee still applies. The HD access fee is the same as the former HD programming package. It required now for any HD equipment and HD programming is covered by it.

The same DVR fee still applies. The HD access fee is the same as the former HD programming package. It required now for any HD equipment and HD programming is covered by it.ACTUALLY there are seperate fees -- one for the old TivO-based DVR and a different one for their HR20. I think there's a buck difference... and I seem to recall an earlier poster listing the various fees. As I recall you pay the DVR fee and NOT a mirror subscription fee (I always thought since the HR20 has 2-tuners they'd charge a 'mirror' fee for having it).

ACTUALLY there are seperate fees -- one for the old TivO-based DVR and a different one for their HR20. I think there's a buck difference... and I seem to recall an earlier poster listing the various fees. As I recall you pay the DVR fee and NOT a mirror subscription fee (I always thought since the HR20 has 2-tuners they'd charge a 'mirror' fee for having it).

Thanks, I didn't think they were going to charge me LESS.
Does anyone have the direct phone number for customer retention. I thought I had it, but can't find it.
Thanks

^^^ It's no longer published. You have to call customer service and get transfered.

i'm getting D* installed tomorrow and while i bought one HD DVR from them i am looking to pick another up on ebay.

what is the difference between the hr20-700 and the 100?

The 100 has a coax audio output and an external rf antenna.

i'm getting D* installed tomorrow and while i bought one HD DVR from them i am looking to pick another up on ebay.

what is the difference between the hr20-700 and the 100?


GET THE 100!!! The 700's run hot, hot, hot. DTV installed a -100 when I upgraded to HD DVR and it ran at 95 degrees. I bought an additional DVR on Ebay and got the -700 cause it was a few dollars cheaper. The internal temp on the 700 ranges between 120 and 130. In a small room the hot equipment will heat up the room and make your A/C work harder. Plus I wonder how much harder the higher temp is on components. I wish now I had bought the 100...
When I complained about the heat, DTV sent me two more DVRs, both of them 700C with the same problem. They run hot... I asked specifically for a -100 and they tell me they cannot control what is sent out as a replacement. They work fine, but just have to put up with the heat... ridiculous....

ACTUALLY there are seperate fees -- one for the old TivO-based DVR and a different one for their HR20. I think there's a buck difference... and I seem to recall an earlier poster listing the various fees. As I recall you pay the DVR fee and NOT a mirror subscription fee (I always thought since the HR20 has 2-tuners they'd charge a 'mirror' fee for having it).

Just got off the phone with them. I got the HR20 for $99 and free HD access for a year, so actually they gave ME $20. I also had to agree to a 2 year commitment. The CSR sent me to the detention dept. right away. I've been with them since they started, and the guy said it's been 15 years. The DVR service fee stays the same at $5.99, so I'm a happy camper.

I am having the HR20 (not sure if it's the 100 or 700) installed in a couple of weeks. I've read old postings mentioning the hdmi issues. I can't find any recent postings. Has this been fixed? Are there any outstanding issues?

when i was leaving for work today the blue dial on my hr20 was lit up, which indicates something got downloaded last night. any ideas what this might be?

when i was leaving for work today the blue dial on my hr20 was lit up, which indicates something got downloaded last night. any ideas what this might be?

0x18A software for your HR-20-700

I am having the HR20 (not sure if it's the 100 or 700) installed in a couple of weeks. I've read old postings mentioning the hdmi issues. I can't find any recent postings. Has this been fixed? Are there any outstanding issues?

Most HDMI issues have been fix, but at this point it really comes down to what model TV you have and how far from the HDMI standard they wandered.

0x18A software for your HR-20-700

thanks. what does it do?

Most HDMI issues have been fix, but at this point it really comes down to what model TV you have and how far from the HDMI standard they wandered.

One way to eliminate a lot of problems with HDMI (if you have any at all) is to turn off 480i and 480p and turn ON Native mode. That way the HR20 is only switching between 720p and 1080i and it takes a lot less time to change chanels

thanks. what does it do?

never mind. went to dbstalk.com and got the information.

thanks again.

Hello all!! A newbie to the world of HDTV and Directv.

I started with the hr20-100 upon the install and the darn box would nto turn on. It took all of a half hour to get going. Then I asked for a replacement cuz the darn thing kept freezing on me. They sent a refurb that turned on. Then they did the stupidest thing and sent me another replacement box that I did nto need and this one is the 700 model NEWLY MANUFACTURED ON 6/27/07.

Now I am confused. when I get home, which should I hook up and what are the REAL differences between the newly manufactured 700 and the refurb 100. I CANT BELIEVE THEY HAVE REFURBS ALREADY ON THE 100...

Thanks fellas

Real differences...
Blue ring is a bunch of single LED's on the 700
No External RF Antenna on the 700 (it still can be used RF, just no external antenna)
700's tend to run hot at about 125 deg instead of the 95 deg of the 100's
No Digital Coaxial Audio output on the 700.

As far as real functional differences, there are none, just the external plugs and front led's.

You could pitch a fit with DTV and tell them you NEED a 100 as you only have a coaxial input on your surround...

I just bought an Insignia 26" NS-LCD26 from BB and I cannot find the code to control the TV with the HR20-700 remote (RC34). Anybody else with similar setup that can offer help? tnx.

Anyone know what the slow glowing light means.
Is this their form of a hard drive activity light?

Anyone know of a shortcut to switch between 2 channels?

What is the latest firmware for the HR20-100?

I just bought an Insignia 26" NS-LCD26 from BB and I cannot find the code to control the TV with the HR20-700 remote (RC34). Anybody else with similar setup that can offer help? tnx.
http://www.ezremote.com/setupcodehelp/DTV/ProductSelection.php

Anyone know of a shortcut to switch between 2 channels?
Try the "Previous" button

What is the latest firmware for the HR20-100?

0x18A

0x18A

That is for the HR-20-700 and not the -100 [0x017E]

when i was leaving for work today the blue dial on my hr20 was lit up, which indicates something got downloaded last night. any ideas what this might be?

which must be the explanation for why I couldn't turn mine on yesterday afternoon. I finally had to do a hard reset to get the thing to come on.

You too? I had to power cycle my HR20 yesterday too.

If you have a 700 it's probably the latest software download. Check dbstalk for details. One thing that sounded good was adding a delete button om the list and to do pages.

Just got my HR20-700 Last night.

While watching TV last night, I noticed my HR20 was 'LOUD'. Sounded like a hard drive churning. I know there is a HD in the thing, but should they be noticeably loud?

Just got my HR20-700 Last night.

While watching TV last night, I noticed my HR20 was 'LOUD'. Sounded like a hard drive churning. I know there is a HD in the thing, but should they be noticeably loud?

No it shouldn't be that "LOUD". I have two in the same room and with everything off, I can barely notice them.

Check out DBSTalk.com for software

No it shouldn't be that "LOUD". I have two in the same room and with everything off, I can barely notice them.

Mine is very noticeable. It sits on top of my TV and it was grinding away...and I was watching live TV at the time, not something recorded. I'll check it out tonight. If I still hear it, I'll ask for a new one.

Mine is very noticeable. It sits on top of my TV and it was grinding away...and I was watching live TV at the time, not something recorded. I'll check it out tonight. If I still hear it, I'll ask for a new one.

It has a 90 min live buffer that is always recording [whether on or off].
Sometimes the case can be making the noise [pressing on it should tell].

It has a 90 min live buffer that is always recording [whether on or off].
Sometimes the case can be making the noise [pressing on it should tell].

I'll give that a try. My wife said she didn't notice it today. I'll found out in a an hour.

How do you check the Signal Strength of an OTA channel you are watching? Unless I'm overlooking a button, or something in the menu, I can't find it. I've found the singal strength meter for the Sats, but not the OTA tuner. Maybe I missed it.

My tuner doesn't sound too loud tonight.

How do you check the Signal Strength of an OTA channel you are watching? Unless I'm overlooking a button, or something in the menu, I can't find it. I've found the singal strength meter for the Sats, but not the OTA tuner. Maybe I missed it.

My tuner doesn't sound too loud tonight.

You need to go into the setup menu and I thinks it's "edit" OTA channels that gives you the signal meter [or somewhere close to it].

For the OTA signal strength.

Setup > Sat & Ant > View Signal Strength

I just wanted to add another HR20-700 vs. HR20-100S comment. I have a 100S upstairs and it stays very cool to the touch since it has no vents on top. My 700 downstairs runs very hot and the vents are on the top of the unit.

You need to go into the setup menu and I thinks it's "edit" OTA channels that gives you the signal meter [or somewhere close to it].

Thanks...this is it. If you go into the SAT portion, you only get the Sat signal meters.

Once I made my way to the right place, checking the levels was a snap, but getting there could be easier...LOL

Loosing the phone line:

My unit keeps loosing "sight" of the phone line. If I go through the reboot process it comes back, but a week later it looses it again. I can tell when the CID stops working. Then reboot again. Any ideas?

Loosing the phone line:

My unit keeps loosing "sight" of the phone line. If I go through the reboot process it comes back, but a week later it looses it again. I can tell when the CID stops working. Then reboot again. Any ideas?

Are you dimming the blue ring? I'm just curious because my CID/modem stopped working a couple of times and it occurred to me that it was right after i had dimmed the ring. Since then I've left it bright and it's been fine. Could just be a coincident or maybe a programming bug. Has any one else noticed this?

Now that you menion it - that could be it; I do indeed dim the the ring.
I'll play with it.

Need some help. My HR20 worked great up until about 3-4 weeks ago. Now on the HD channels only, we get constant audio drop outs and picture freezes (one second only). I have called D* and they told me to unhook the HR20, check the connections, etc. Total waste of time. Was there a system upgrade that could have caused this or do I need to go buy another one?

Same problem. For me, it started sometime around mid-July. Audio will drop out for about one second, followed by a couple more seconds of pixel freezing. Signal strength looks fine, however. It is really bad and ruins almost all HD programming.

Loosing the phone line:

My unit keeps loosing "sight" of the phone line. If I go through the reboot process it comes back, but a week later it looses it again. I can tell when the CID stops working. Then reboot again. Any ideas?

My CID is working on my HR20 but does not show up on screen. I can see the call list in the CID menu section. Any ideas why nothing on the screen at the time of the call? Thanks.

Jim

I am pretty sure you may have turned off the notification feature. Go to your Caller ID Settings and turn notification on.... each time you get a call there is a menu that pops up and one choice is to turn off notification. My guess is you accidentally chose that one time.

Hey.

Just got the DirecTV HD DVR and it's working fine. Couple of questions:

1. Is 4x FF the BEST you can get? I have had UltimateTV for years, and got spoiled with 15x and 300x fast forwarding. 4x FF sucks - way too slow.

2. I have a HR20-100S. I've seen people talk about the 700 version here (and saw it in the store). This is the free one I got from DirecTV. Is there a difference between the 100 and 700s series? Is it just a OS upgrade? If there is a discernible difference, can I ask DirecTV to swap it out for me?

Thanks.

Same problem. For me, it started sometime around mid-July. Audio will drop out for about one second, followed by a couple more seconds of pixel freezing. Signal strength looks fine, however. It is really bad and ruins almost all HD programming.

Had a few somewhat similar problems beginning last week. Went through the switch cables / reset stuff the D* folks advised, with no response. Also, not all of my HD channels were coming in (e.g. ESPN HD reception was intermittent, on one day, off the next).

A rep came by and had me do a software upgrade check. There are probably better instructions elsewhere, but basically we unplugged the HR20-100, rested 20 seconds, plugged it back in and as soom as the first screen appeared, entered 0 2 4 6 8 on the remote a couple of times until a "checking software updates" screen appeared. It went through the motions and appears to have fixed the problem.

PDM

Hey.

Just got the DirecTV HD DVR and it's working fine. Couple of questions:

1. Is 4x FF the BEST you can get? I have had UltimateTV for years, and got spoiled with 15x and 300x fast forwarding. 4x FF sucks - way too slow.

2. I have a HR20-100S. I've seen people talk about the 700 version here (and saw it in the store). This is the free one I got from DirecTV. Is there a difference between the 100 and 700s series? Is it just a OS upgrade? If there is a discernible difference, can I ask DirecTV to swap it out for me?

Thanks.


The 1x, 2x, 3x, 4x... are just labels... they are not the multiplier of playback speed. 4x is pretty much up at about 200x realtime

There is no functional difference between -100 and -700

-100 has an external RF antenna (-700 internal)
-100 has a coax-digital and optical (-700 is only optical)
-100 has an extra de-activated network port

-700 usually gets the software releases first, then the -100s

What is the latest on HR-20 and ATSC OTA? Do both the dash 100 and dash 700 models support OTA ATSC reception?

Tony

What is the latest on HR-20 and ATSC OTA? Do both the dash 100 and dash 700 models support OTA ATSC reception?

Tony

I have one of each. They both do.

Thanks Petergaryr.
Do you have anything to add to ebonovic's post re different features between the 100 & 700?

Thanks Petergaryr.
Do you have anything to add to ebonovic's post re different features between the 100 & 700?

That about covers it. Although I don't have a problem with either one, it is true that since the 700 is the older machine, there are more of them installed...so they tend to get the latest software enhancements first.

However, both are quite reliable and I would have no problem recommending either. I have been very satisfied with the progress D* has made in enhancements to their capabilities....with more to come. I know some people don't like the fact that neither one has dual live buffers, but a fairly simple workaround is just to record both shows that you want to toggle between.

Do most of you Turn your HR20s off when you aren't using it, or leave it on?

I ask because this morning, I hit the On button on the remote (which turns on the TV and the HR20). The HR20 had to go through it's initial setup of checking each sat, etc., which takes forever Then, my Blue Lights on the front were back on again, which I had to dim down.

Is it possible that this is the norm if D* is pushing an upgrade to your receiver? I didn't have a chance to go into the menu to see if it received an upgrade.

Do most of you Turn your HR20s off when you aren't using it, or leave it on?

I ask because this morning, I hit the On button on the remote (which turns on the TV and the HR20). The HR20 had to go through it's initial setup of checking each sat, etc., which takes forever Then, my Blue Lights on the front were back on again, which I had to dim down.

Is it possible that this is the norm if D* is pushing an upgrade to your receiver? I didn't have a chance to go into the menu to see if it received an upgrade.
I turn mine off when not using... one is on a Harmony remote setup so it powers everything off, including the HR20 and one is in my bedroom and the blue lights are too powerful to sleep with them on. They never have the issue you are referring to... It is possible that you either lost full power (hence the full reboot) or you just got an upgrade.

Do most of you Turn your HR20s off when you aren't using it, or leave it on?

I ask because this morning, I hit the On button on the remote (which turns on the TV and the HR20). The HR20 had to go through it's initial setup of checking each sat, etc., which takes forever Then, my Blue Lights on the front were back on again, which I had to dim down.

Is it possible that this is the norm if D* is pushing an upgrade to your receiver? I didn't have a chance to go into the menu to see if it received an upgrade.

It is never "off" unless you unplug it. It will record programs, and buffer 90 minutes of the last station you were tuned to.

However, if it goes through a complete reset, most likely you have either lost power...or a software download has happened. I always turn it off, and dim the lights to their lowest setting. That way I know that if it is suddenly "on" and the lights are at full brightness, a S/W download has happened.

Thanks. I'll check to see if D* pushed a SW upgrade to it. We lose power a lot (for seconds at a time), but didn't last night as all of our clocks were ok.

Silly question, but if a SW Upgrade will cause it to have to completely reboot when I turn it on (full on, not standby) the next day, will it have recorded programs that were between the SW Upgrade time and the time I turned the receiver on, for the reboot?

the sw reboot should occur immediately after the download... there is a chance you just happened to catch it in the act, but if it happens at 2am and reboots until 2:30a, no programs will be recorded during that time, the power switch is pretty irrelevant as far as that goes. If you are loosing power frequently for seconds at a time, you may want to buy a cheap ($40 or less) UPS (Uninterruped Power Supply) - it is basically a glorified surge protecter that will keep you stuff powered for a limited amount of time (certainly long enough for those power blinks it sounds like you may be getting) via battery power.

the sw reboot should occur immediately after the download... there is a chance you just happened to catch it in the act, but if it happens at 2am and reboots until 2:30a, no programs will be recorded during that time, the power switch is pretty irrelevant as far as that goes. If you are loosing power frequently for seconds at a time, you may want to buy a cheap ($40 or less) UPS (Uninterruped Power Supply) - it is basically a glorified surge protecter that will keep you stuff powered for a limited amount of time (certainly long enough for those power blinks it sounds like you may be getting) via battery power.


I'll second that recommendation about UPS. They are cheap enough these days. I have one on my HR20-700 and -100, as well as my network hub and modem (for when VOD kicks in!).

the sw reboot should occur immediately after the download... there is a chance you just happened to catch it in the act, but if it happens at 2am and reboots until 2:30a, no programs will be recorded during that time, the power switch is pretty irrelevant as far as that goes. If you are loosing power frequently for seconds at a time, you may want to buy a cheap ($40 or less) UPS (Uninterruped Power Supply) - it is basically a glorified surge protecter that will keep you stuff powered for a limited amount of time (certainly long enough for those power blinks it sounds like you may be getting) via battery power.

UPS already on the way. This reboot happened at 4:30 this morning, once I turned the Receiver on. When I hit the "on" button from the D* remote, the TV came on, but the receiver did not. I then hit the power button on the actual receiver, nothing. Finally, it came on, but was rebooting and checking the signal from the SAT 1 and 2 inputs. Now I'm worried that something is wrong as this reboot was well past the 2:30AM mark (I'm assuming that EST), and we had no power outages.

UPS already on the way. This reboot happened at 4:30 this morning, once I turned the Receiver on. When I hit the "on" button from the D* remote, the TV came on, but the receiver did not. I then hit the power button on the actual receiver, nothing. Finally, it came on, but was rebooting and checking the signal from the SAT 1 and 2 inputs. Now I'm worried that something is wrong as this reboot was well past the 2:30AM mark (I'm assuming that EST), and we had no power outages.

There was a software download for some last night. I think it was 0x18A.
Sometimes the HR-20 will "hang" after an upgrade [not always]. If this does happen then nothing will record until a reset [re-boot].
Some of these upgrade are making some major changes to the DVR that may cause it to "hiccup" more than normally.

OK, I have been away from this forum for quite some time. My bad!!
But let me make it as simple as possible , please.
I am thinking about moving from an older Toshiba 3000 HD receiver, to a DirectTV HR20 DVR, for the $299 price.
I was offered HBO/Max free for 6 months, and $10/mo off my bill. I am thinking about taking such, then turning around and ordering a new HR20 DVR, and the HD package for $10/mo, so I am back to where I was in cost per month.
I will get HBO/Max both SD and HD for 6 months, and one of my RDS stations in HD, to watch the Red Wings in HD, see how it goes.
SO I am a bit confused here. If I were to order today, and have them install the HD DVR next week, are you guys saying there is a "new" receiver coming out shortly, that will make the HR20 obsolete, or did I miss read here?
Help me out , please.

Paul

The HR20 is not going to be rendered obsolete... DTV still supports all the older models, even the Ultimate TV's are still able to be used. The new MP4 channels are ONLY availbale on the H20 and HR20 and the older HR10-250 (or whatever they were called) HD Tivo units are going to be rendered semi-obsolete as they will not get any of the new HD channels as they are added...

There was a software download for some last night. I think it was 0x18A.
Sometimes the HR-20 will "hang" after an upgrade [not always]. If this does happen then nothing will record until a reset [re-boot].
Some of these upgrade are making some major changes to the DVR that may cause it to "hiccup" more than normally.

That's what it was. The History showed the download was around 4:48AM, which is when I was turning the thing on. That's good to know.

Thanks for the help guys.

Quick question, and don't yell at me because I didn't search first, this thread is way too big. :)

Getting an HR20 and the 5LNB installed Sunday and I wanted to make sure I had good look angles. AIUI, I need to "see" a span from 99-119 degrees, is that correct?

Ok, I have gotten to HR20s recently - a 100 and a 700. The installer told me the 700 is better for various reasons - more stable, gets the updates first, better ventilation, etc. Claims that he replaces 100s all the time.

That seems to be in contradiction with what is said here. Unless I'm nuts, I thought the consensus was that the 100 is the better unit.

Am I confused? Thanks.

Quick question, and don't yell at me because I didn't search first, this thread is way too big. :)

Getting an HR20 and the 5LNB installed Sunday and I wanted to make sure I had good look angles. AIUI, I need to "see" a span from 99-119 degrees, is that correct?

Yes "but" you need to normalize it to your location
http://www.directv.com/DTVAPP/customer/dishPointer.jsp
This is a "true north" compass reading for 101, so two degrees east and 18 west is your span.

I just had my Tivo HR10-250 (which I loved) switched out for the new HR20-700 from DirecTV. I have to say that, contrary to what many Tivo loyalists think, the new HR20 is very impressive. It's only been 10 days, so take this with a grain of salt, but my OTA picture is great, the interface is surprisingly nice, and I like the way this unit "lists" my recorded programs better than my old Tivo. I especially like the "available hard disk space" status bar on the list menu, and the BOLD red R that comes up when I opt to record a program from the guide. There's no wondering if it "heard me," and thus far no waiting and waiting for the task to register.

In no way do I feel as though I'm giving up on anything by going away from Tivo.

Yes "but" you need to normalize it to your location
http://www.directv.com/DTVAPP/customer/dishPointer.jsp
This is a "true north" compass reading for 101, so two degrees east and 18 west is your span.

I used the below site, it computes for the mag/dec and from my zip it shows a range from 128 to 157(99-119).

http://www.emantechnology.com/lookangle.asp

Ok, I have gotten to HR20s recently - a 100 and a 700. The installer told me the 700 is better for various reasons - more stable, gets the updates first, better ventilation, etc. Claims that he replaces 100s all the time.

That seems to be in contradiction with what is said here. Unless I'm nuts, I thought the consensus was that the 100 is the better unit.

Am I confused? Thanks.

I have both and I don't think either one is better.

I just had my Tivo HR10-250 (which I loved) switched out for the new HR20-700 from DirecTV. I have to say that, contrary to what many Tivo loyalists think, the new HR20 is very impressive.

I started with TiVo almost 7 years ago and for the last year and half, I've been trying other DVR solutions, MCE and the HR20 to be specific. I've yet to feel deprived by those other solutions.

Ok, I have gotten to HR20s recently - a 100 and a 700. The installer told me the 700 is better for various reasons - more stable, gets the updates first, better ventilation, etc. Claims that he replaces 100s all the time.

That seems to be in contradiction with what is said here. Unless I'm nuts, I thought the consensus was that the 100 is the better unit.

Am I confused? Thanks.

Well, in my case, I have both and the only thing that is true in the installer's statement is that the 100 does get the updates after the 700.

Of course, maybe I got a good 100. Still, I frequent dbstalk.com and I haven't seen a lot of complaints about the box (other than the updates).

For the record, which is the "newer" box - the 100 or the 700? I read conflicting accounts.

Thanks.

100

It's newer only in availability, not design. Both are made to meet the same specs.

It's newer only in availability, not design. Both are made to meet the same specs.

Slight change: the -100 was designed after the -700 came out and was to improve some things.

Confused here? I have a RF antenna and no COAX out put (I have to use the Fiber) and the screen says I have a 100??

VOS, what is your source? You seem very knowledgeable on the subject but I've never heard the -100 was designed to answer -700 shortcomings. The extra Ethernet port and coaxial digital audio output are the only changes I know of. The -100 does run cooler but I've not heard of the -700s having a heat problem. The -100 has an external RF antenna for the remote control while the -700 has an internal one.