I just got a Vidikron Vision One. The tubes looked perfect however when the tubes are powered up and I could see a faint line in the middle of all three tubes. Is it normal?

Also it only has a 5BNC input... what would be the recommended method of feedinmg my DVD signal into it?

I was offered 600usd for a faroudja line quadrupler. Should I take it up? I'm worry that the quadrupler would be useless if I were to switch from DVDs to BR/HD-DVD.

Please advise.

Hi Who

It could have to do with the banding phenomenon; what was the sodtware level on that machine? Press * to see the version level, V3.x or v4.x

You just "got" a vision one? please don't tell us someone just gave it to you because that won't foster any good will here :D what you have is a re-badged Electrohome Marquee 9500LC, one of the top 3 CRT projectors ever made.
Your options for feeding a signal into it are practically endless. The Faroudja scaler for $600. is an OK deal, they cost around $10k new. The biggest problem with older scalers is they don't accpet DVI/HDMI which is what all the new players ouput. The cheapest new scaler from Lumagen or DVDO is going to be $1000.+ and you can plug any source into it . The 5BNC input on a CRT is the same signal as the VGA port on your home computer. You will need a VGA/5BNC breakout cable to hook it up that way. 1920 x 1080 from a decent video card will throw the best pic on your V1. For PC DVD player software check out Theatre Tek
http://www.theatertek.com/Forums/index.php
I don' know if you have owned CRT projectros before, but if not You have a STEEP learning curve ahead of you, maybe post your location and ask for local help?
BTW, the video anamoly you describe is not a standard one found in tech.service bulletins AFAIK. I would start by cleaning the 3 mini RCA's on the Video input module with a little de-oxit on a Q-tip, From there I would look at the CLB and deflection processor board and do the same.

I was wondering maybe I should get an Oppo DVD player to do the scaling and get an Ophit DDA to convert the HDMI signal into VGA. Has anyone tried to do it this way? Perhaps can share the results.

Based on what draganm was explaining, I would have one thing on my mind.....1080P. I could be wrong, but with the V1 (I've never seen one!), I'd be thinking current model scaler and a professional setup. The budget might be tight, but you've got one of the best projectors ever made as stated above, take advantage of the horsepower. You will be stunned beyond belief.

Jeff

just ordered an Ophit DDA from Lenexpo.... hpoefully this will give a good conversion.

Who,

Back to Tim's question, what version software is it running?

Hi JBJR, I'm not too sure of the version yet... will try it tonight.

Hello

Horizontal line or vertical line? We need clues!!!!

Hello
Horizontal line or vertical line? We need clues!!!!
someone else here needs a clue too,ever get the feeling your typing into empty cyberspace? :D

hi tim... the lines are vertical... the technician said that its a normal phenomenon and he has seen it in the other projectors that he installed.

Whowillbe....congradulations on your purchase and welcome to the dark side!!!

I have no doubt you will enjoy this vision one!!!

Martin

the lines are vertical... the technician said that its a normal phenomenon and he has seen it in the other projectors that he installed. no it's not normal, that machine has a bad focus board.

Yeah....I was gonna say, I've never seen a Marquee or any other pj with vert. lines and it was considered normal. Yep, good chance it's the focus board.

I have an NEC 9PG xtra. I had a h-line through the middle. It turned out to be TOO much of one of the converence settings. I reset everything and was more careful about my electronic geometry setup.

-Greg

Tell me more about this vertical line/focus board issue. IF I were to have a Marquee with this focus board problem, what would I see?

That particular issue is one I haven't heard of before. No surprse. There's still a lot left to learn.


CJ

Tell me more about this vertical line/focus board issue. IF I were to have a Marquee with this focus board problem, what would I see?
That particular issue is one I haven't heard of before. No surprse. There's still a lot left to learn.
CJ
With a bad focus board you will see vertical lines on a projected image, the lines will move left/right as you ramp EM focus up/down. due to it's location in the chassis, The focus board can easilly be damaged by a static discharge from any of the 3 tubes, same as the HDM. There is a Christie tech. bulleting to cut traces and add 3 resistors on all 3 channels of the F-board to remedy this. I think the "mod" is standard by the time you get to the first Ultra boards, even before they added the extra GEOM features to prevent banding.
You can actually see the mod in the top-middle of the photo in e-bay item 300021941560. There is a resistor flying off one of the amps in the middle of the board.

Hi Tim,

The software version was 4.4...

I managed to do a rough setup of the projector yesterday... I used Oppo 970 connected to a HDMI to DVI adapter to a DVI-D to VGA transcoder (Ophit) to a mini gender changer to a VGA to 5 BNC break out cables.

WOW!!! The picture quality at 1080i was simply fantastic! Lotsa details. Flesh tone was spot on. ALl this while projecting onto a yellowish colored wall!

However when I later compare the images thrown out by the Vision 1 to Infocus 4805. I find that the different isn't that much. I guess the projector isn't optimally setup yet.

However when I later compare the images thrown out by the Vision 1 to Infocus 4805. I find that the different isn't that much. I guess the projector isn't optimally setup yet. ya think?
Your video-chain is a mess and I don't see how flesh-tones could possibly be "spot on" if your projecting on a Yellow wall? I would guess your realizing 50% of the machines spotential. A v1 is worth taking the time to set-up properly if you have the time to learn the process, or hire someone to do it?

Hi dra,

Oh.. perhaps I shopuldn't have used the word 'spot on'....

Is there any way to simplify my video chain because that's the best that I can think off. (I'm not considering using a HTPC)

Is there any way to simplify my video chain because that's the best that I can think off. (I'm not considering using a HTPC) i'm assuming you mean the best cheap option? A machine like that really deserves a good scaler, but in lieu if that I would get a DVD player that upconverts over the component video outputs, like the Oppo helio's, $170. on flea bay item 220013847280. Plug it directly into a $200. Moome card with the component input jacks and a good Canare component cable. Still a $500. solution with the cable and shipping though :(
The trouble is that the mome card on the Marquee doesn't work well with the DVI port. AAMOF the DVI port on moome card doesn't even look as good as upscaled DVD from HTPC so using the Oppo is going to be tough. If you really want to stick with the Oppo then you will need a very good D/A transcoder. Unfortunately the Ophit is really an Office Express type of junk-box solution not intended for reference quality big screen displays. High Quality digital to analog conversion will be expensive, around $400. or more. Once you have that you need to avoid all those adapters, every one of them will induce ghosting and signal degradation. Basically a decent D/A transcoder like the older ditrovision and then a good breakout cable with no adapters. hopefully some others chime in with other suggestions?
IT's tough, that's why a lot of us run HTPC even though some of us, like me , hate computers.

i'm assuming you mean the best cheap option? A machine like that really deserves a good scaler, but in lieu if that I would get a DVD player that upconverts over the component video outputs, like the Oppo helio's, $170. on flea bay item 220013847280. Plug it directly into a $200. Moome card with the component input jacks and a good Canare component cable. Still a $500. solution with the cable and shipping though :(
The trouble is that the mome card on the Marquee doesn't work well with the DVI port. AAMOF the DVI port on moome card doesn't even look as good as upscaled DVD from HTPC so using the Oppo is going to be tough. If you really want to stick with the Oppo then you will need a very good D/A transcoder. Unfortunately the Ophit is really an Office Express type of junk-box solution not intended for reference quality big screen displays. High Quality digital to analog conversion will be expensive, around $400. or more. Once you have that you need to avoid all those adapters, every one of them will induce ghosting and signal degradation. Basically a decent D/A transcoder like the older ditrovision and then a good breakout cable with no adapters. hopefully some others chime in with other suggestions?
IT's tough, that's why a lot of us run HTPC even though some of us, like me , hate computers.


Thought that the Oppo only was a killer at DVI not at component?

i'm assuming you mean the best cheap option? A machine like that really deserves a good scaler, but in lieu if that I would get a DVD player that upconverts over the component video outputs, like the Oppo helio's, $170. on flea bay item 220013847280. Plug it directly into a $200. Moome card with the component input jacks and a good Canare component cable. Still a $500. solution with the cable and shipping though :(
The trouble is that the mome card on the Marquee doesn't work well with the DVI port. AAMOF the DVI port on moome card doesn't even look as good as upscaled DVD from HTPC so using the Oppo is going to be tough. If you really want to stick with the Oppo then you will need a very good D/A transcoder. Unfortunately the Ophit is really an Office Express type of junk-box solution not intended for reference quality big screen displays. High Quality digital to analog conversion will be expensive, around $400. or more. Once you have that you need to avoid all those adapters, every one of them will induce ghosting and signal degradation. Basically a decent D/A transcoder like the older ditrovision and then a good breakout cable with no adapters. hopefully some others chime in with other suggestions?
IT's tough, that's why a lot of us run HTPC even though some of us, like me , hate computers.

Hmm... I've not gotten a chance to see a properly set up CRT so I'm not too sure of the ability.... With regards to the Ophit, it seems to be rather capable. So do you think its better that I used a line quadrupler instead? Cause in this case, I can simplify the video chain.

So do you think its better that I used a line quadrupler instead? Cause in this case, I can simplify the video chain.
no one calls them "quadruplers" anymore, the correct term is Video Scalers :) They are the best solution but they start at around $1500. for a good one.
http://www.lumagen.com/testindex.php?module=hdp_details
I like the Lumagen's because they have a 5BNC ouput option which eliminates the crappy little VGA plug. If you buy a used scaler, make sure it's not tool old, you want at least 2 DVI input's. One for cable/sattelite and the other for a DVD player. A Toshiba HD-DVD feeding 720P to a Lumagen and upscaling to 1080P out from 5BNC jacks would be awesome.
The only drawback is the scalers don't accept 1080P in the DVI ports, so if by some miracle Sony Blue Ray turns out to be something other than a pice of shi*t, you won't be able to pass it through/transcode it to RGB. The real problem is that that source technology is changing so fast that manufactuers of set-top boxes are having a hard time keeping up.
So maybe the question to be asked is "what should I do right now"? I would get a Moome DVI card for $200. Plug the Oppo directly into it and set up the machine at 720P, not 1080i.Even though this won't be the best possible solution, If you set up the V1 correctly with a good mechanical alignmentand, correctly adjust the vido levels, G2, etc. there should be no comparison to the Optoma or any DLP for that matter. Then wait for next Spring and the format war to end, dust to settle before upgrading your source to something putting out native HD.

If you set up the V1 correctly with a good mechanical alignmentand, correctly adjust the vido levels, G2, etc. there should be no comparison to the Optoma or any DLP for that matter. Then wait for next Spring and the format war to end, dust to settle before upgrading your source to something putting out native HD.

Hmm... what's G2? And how do I adjust it?

G2/Drive are in the service menu, "color temp. adjustment" and most amatuers I've seen who tried to adjust it just made it worse. If you don't understand what it is and it's relationship to white balance you should probabll leave it alone. If you really want to proceed you can look at this web-site.
http://www.etechvideo.com/techtips.htm
Hint: write down the original settings in case you really screw it up.

some shots of the projector.

http://i94.photobucket.com/albums/l86/whowillbe/CRT%20Projector/5.jpg

http://i94.photobucket.com/albums/l86/whowillbe/CRT%20Projector/4.jpg

http://i94.photobucket.com/albums/l86/whowillbe/CRT%20Projector/3.jpg

http://i94.photobucket.com/albums/l86/whowillbe/CRT%20Projector/2.jpg

http://i94.photobucket.com/albums/l86/whowillbe/CRT%20Projector/1.jpg

Where are you located?

You need to have someone help you set this up. Otherwise, brew some pots of coffee and read through Guy Kuo's holy focus guide multiple times. And all the stuff on Tim's site. And Curt's site.

hi Chris...

It looked bad on the photo is it??? I'm playing it off the wall... my installer will be installing the projector for me over the weekend. hopefully by then it'll look better.

hi Chris...
It looked bad on the photo is it??? I'm playing it off the wall... my installer will be installing the projector for me over the weekend. hopefully by then it'll look better.
I don't think Chris is saying your shots look bad, they don't look bad. Except for very obvous problems, like a machine that needs repair, you can't really tell anything with screen shots taken on a digital camera and then down-sized to a website.
I think what Chris is saying, and what I will repeat, is that a machine like that deserves the best installation possible. Just make sure that the guy you hire to do it knows CRT and if at all posssible is a pro with the Electrohome Marquee 9500LC (which is really what you have there). I would also recomend a set of Mike Parkers V2 modified video boards fot that machine, probable a 15 to 20% increase in performance over stock in 4 distinct areas of pic quality.
BTW, that is a SWEET machine, I would be lying if I said I wasn't jealous :)

http://www.curtpalme.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=2106

Could be crushing blacks and overdriving whites if the pic is any indication.

Troy

I don't think Chris is saying your shots look bad, they don't look bad. Except for very obvous problems, like a machine that needs repair, you can't really tell anything with screen shots taken on a digital camera and then down-sized to a website.
I think what Chris is saying, and what I will repeat, is that a machine like that deserves the best installation possible. Just make sure that the guy you hire to do it knows CRT and if at all posssible is a pro with the Electrohome Marquee 9500LC (which is really what you have there). I would also recomend a set of Mike Parkers V2 modified video boards fot that machine, probable a 15 to 20% increase in performance over stock in 4 distinct areas of pic quality.
BTW, that is a SWEET machine, I would be lying if I said I wasn't jealous :)

http://www.curtpalme.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=2106

Yup! That's what I was saying, I wasn't making any comments on the pics which look ok, but they're small and impossible to tell much of anything from shots like that. This is one of the best displays on earth, you want to make sure you set it up properly, feed it very high quality video from appropriate sources, etc.

I would hate to see such a good machine being fed 480p or something and setup poorly, what a waste that would be. You should be feeding it 960p or 1080p from a high quality processor.

Oh I see... thanks guys for the comments and advice....

well my installer is ISF certified and they have been doing CRT the last number of years so I guess they should be able to do a good job...

anyway can i check with you guys... i noticed that there's always a light fall off at the sides of the screen and the 'whiteness' of is not distributed evenly (when i used the all white test screen). Is this normal???

anyway can i check with you guys... i noticed that there's always a light fall off at the sides of the screen and the 'whiteness' of is not distributed evenly (when i used the all white test screen). Is this normal???
simple, go into the service menu, color temp. adjustment, adjust zones,
turn down the 2 center zones to 40 , bump up the sides to 60 and the 4 corners to 65. Of course you will need a light meter if you want it absolutely perfect but the numbers I gave you will be pretty close.

thanks draganm.... :)

now my projector has ran into some problem... last night it was right fine but then suddenly, the image became squeezed into the middle with the convergence all gone and after a while, the projector stopped putting out any image... I switching off the projector then switch it on again but still to no avail.

Its a good think that my set is still under warranty but I'm wondering what could be the problem...

How is it at all under warranty???

i got it from a reseller and he gave me 6 months warranty.

Showmecables does a good job of providing component & HDTV cables. Try them at 888-519-9505

NOT EVEN CLOSE.


DVD players output composite, S-video, component, or maybe DVI or HDMI.

You will need a transcoder or scaler that takes your input type and converts it
to RGBHV. NO CABLE ALONE WILL DO THIS.


I suggest you start looking in the scaler/transcoder sections of the forum and ask a few questions there. There are a lot of ways to go.



CJ

To back up on what CJ said, it seems like user " incstlouis" is affiliated with that company, because several of his posts mention it. Marketing is not allowed, fyi...

thanks draganm.... :)

now my projector has ran into some problem... last night it was right fine but then suddenly, the image became squeezed into the middle with the convergence all gone and after a while, the projector stopped putting out any image... I switching off the projector then switch it on again but still to no avail.

Its a good think that my set is still under warranty but I'm wondering what could be the problem...
sounds like high voltage Power supply, easy to replace, look here
http://www.curtpalme.com/ElectrohomeMarquee_Layout1.shtm

guys, thanks for all the advice...

the reseller has just fixed my projector... he said the problem was with the power deflection board and he just swop it for another and it was up and running once again... :)

I've always wanted to verify what the reseller of this crt said was true, which is that the projector came with new tubes..... so I've finally learnt to remove the lenses from my CRT projector and I found that the tubes are literally mint like what the seller told me.......

Guess I'm really just lucky that though I stay in a land where the stuff are more expensive than the states (eg, the Optoma H70 is selling at USD 1625 here, much more than the msrp of USD 999 over in the states), but I managed to buy a Vision 1 with new tubes for USD2200...

Blue
http://i94.photobucket.com/albums/l86/whowillbe/CRT%20Projector/blue.jpg

Green
http://i94.photobucket.com/albums/l86/whowillbe/CRT%20Projector/green.jpg

Red
http://i94.photobucket.com/albums/l86/whowillbe/CRT%20Projector/red.jpg

All 3 tubes
http://i94.photobucket.com/albums/l86/whowillbe/CRT%20Projector/all3tubes.jpg

I've always wanted to verify what the reseller of this crt said was true, which is that the projector came with new tubes..... so I've finally learnt to remove the lenses from my CRT projector and I found that the tubes are literally mint like what the seller told me.......

Guess I'm really just lucky that though I stay in a land where the stuff are more expensive than the states (eg, the Optoma H70 is selling at USD 1625 here, much more than the msrp of USD 999 over in the states), but I managed to buy a Vision 1 with new tubes for USD2200...Say that again!

You just bought a Vidikron Vision 1 with mint tubes and 6 months warranty from a dealer for USD2200 !?!?!?!?

Please slap me if I have got my facts wrong.

Please slap me if I have got my facts right!

Nick :eek:

Say that again!

You just bought a Vidikron Vision 1 with mint tubes and 6 months warranty from a dealer for USD2200 !?!?!?!?

Please slap me if I have got my facts wrong.

Please slap me if I have got my facts right!

Nick :eek:

Yes... you got the facts right but there's no need for a slap...

I guess its just a stroke of luck...

I was actually very prepared that the reseller was not truthful about the condition of the tubes, but since the picture that it was putting out was good enough, I was willing to take the risk... so it was until that I pull out the lenses, that I realised that he was correct.

I guess its a funny situation over here.... there's so few CRT users, such that those who are trying to sell off theirs are selling at astronomical prices as compared to the states, example, USD1400 for a 2000hrs D50, USD2500 for a D50 with new tubes etc... but yet perhaps there're so few CRT users, that for retail sellers, they're willing to sell the CRT projectors which they obtained as a trade in from their customers, for a low price cause its better to sell than to keep it as its all about bottomline for such stores as compared to CRT users who can still keep the projector for personal usage.

So yup that's how I ended up with the Vision One...

Hi people,

If you have followed this thread, you would realised that my HDM board was just swapped recently...

So whatr happened is that all is going well... I've been running in the projector for about 8 hrs since the HDM board change...

However last night when I was watching a movie, the projector suddenyl stopped putting out an image, then after about 5 seconds, the an image came back but the image is not of the movie but rather an image of a messy signal as if the projector is not syncing properly with the DVD player...

I pressed the # button and the test patterns appeared as usual then after a while, the projector went blank again then after a while image reappeared...

It seems that if I were to leave the projector alone, the disappearing and reappearing of the image would occur continuously.

So I turn off the projector and turn it back on, pesto everything was back to normal, but about 20 mins later, the projector act up again...

So does anyone have any idea??? Would appreciate advise.... thanks.

I have never seen a Marquee with so many quirks, is it very humid over there? :confused: sounds like a problem with Video Input module. IT's the one with your 5BNC cables running to it.
I would remove the BNC's, slide the board out and twist/pull-up the 3 little co-axial connectors and clean them with de-oxit and a cotton swab/Q-tip.
The control module next to it also usually needs the same treatment. About a dozen small socketed chips on there that execute all the PJ's functions.
I know at this point it must seem unbelievable but that's an incredibly reliable machine, just needs a little maintenance after 10 years.

I have never seen a Marquee with so many quirks, is it very humid over there? :confused: sounds like a problem with Video Input module. IT's the one with your 5BNC cables running to it.
I would remove the BNC's, slide the board out and twist/pull-up the 3 little co-axial connectors and clean them with de-oxit and a cotton swab/Q-tip.
The control module next to it also usually needs the same treatment. About a dozen small socketed chips on there that execute all the PJ's functions.
I know at this point it must seem unbelievable but that's an incredibly reliable machine, just needs a little maintenance after 10 years.

Yes its humid over here... also apparently the set has been unused for quite some time.....could that pose a problem???

I must add in that when the image re-appear, its like it zooms in from near (ie from large size becomes smaller then it reaches the original size) before finally becoming focus and back to the original size...

Yes its humid over here... also apparently the set has been unused for quite some time.....could that pose a problem???I must add in that when the image re-appear, its like it zooms in from near (ie from large size becomes smaller then it reaches the original size) before finally becoming focus and back to the original size...
Sitting around shouldn't bother it, a lot of humidity though is bad for any electronics. Does the pic shrink/expand vertically, horizontally, or both?

Hi draganm...

The picture did both... basically when the image reappeared, it appeared much bigger than it should be and defocused, then it shrinks down to original size and became focus too...

anyway i tried running it for 2 hrs and the projector was fine... wierd right... I also took the chance to check the P14 voltage and it was 6.25V... I was thinking whether the disappearing of the image was due to a loose HDM board cause when I was putting back the screw that attaches the heatsink to the casing containing the HDM board, the casing shifted up and down a little bit and the image went off and on again... so could this be the reason?

Say Who

Can you tell us the runtime hours and build date or serial number of the Vision?

Say Who

Can you tell us the runtime hours and build date or serial number of the Vision?

Tim,

Serial No: 085240005
Build Date: Dec 1995
Runtime Hrs:2240
Standby Hrs: 3

Do they always look like most of the glycol is missing?

Do they always look like most of the glycol is missing?

I'm sorry but i dun understand the question...

If you're asking whether are there glycol in there, yes definitely.

Mark that's a shadow, not the glycol.
who I think the problem that you reported earlier in the post is the same one your seeing now and it's almost certainly a flaky power supply, not a deflection board.

Mark that's a shadow, not the glycol.
who I think the problem that you reported earlier in the post is the same one your seeing now and it's almost certainly a flaky power supply, not a deflection board.

Hmm... the last time my reseller came, he checked the HPVS and LPVS and they weren't the problem but it was the HDM so he swopped the HDM board...

Well yesterday just watched Poseidon and all went well... perhaps its really the HDM board which was being unseated from its slot when I meddled with the heatsink... Keeping my fingers crossed......

Yeah that looks bad.

Yeah that looks bad.

what looked bad???

Boy, after watching the Moria Scene in LOTR:FOTR, I can only say that CRT is fantastic!!!

Some screen shots to share even though they doesn't do much justice to the actual images...

Gollum
http://i94.photobucket.com/albums/l86/whowillbe/CRT%20Projector/gollum.jpg

Gandalf
http://i94.photobucket.com/albums/l86/whowillbe/CRT%20Projector/gandalf.jpg

Mountain scene
http://i94.photobucket.com/albums/l86/whowillbe/CRT%20Projector/mountain.jpg

For the next 2 photos, I had to exposed for the background and the foreground separately due to the limited dynamic range of my DSLR... What the projector was throwing out was the combination of the properly exposed back and foreground.

Exposed for background
http://i94.photobucket.com/albums/l86/whowillbe/CRT%20Projector/exposedforbackground.jpg

Exposed for foreground
http://i94.photobucket.com/albums/l86/whowillbe/CRT%20Projector/exposedforforeground.jpg

I'm seeing a lot of Red push on the left side of the screen. Since it's not a problem on your tubes I'm guessing you did something strange with the Color Temp. "Zones" in the Service menu?

Hi draganm,

Sorry but whats red push??? anyway ou managed to contact the reseller?

Red push is the most common thing I see on a typical CRT set-up. It means that all or part of the screen is not producing true 6500K (white) but is actually shifted lower to Red, maybe 3500K or somwhere in between. Look at the first pic. in this post, that's Red push.
http://www.curtpalme.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=1908&highlight=
I would have to guess that your Red Drive is too high. go into Service menu, color temp., adjust 6500k. Push Enter until the Red Drive adjustment comes up. Then push the # key until the full white pattern comes up. Ramp Red Drive down to about 27, then raise /lower until screen is white, not Red or blue.
if it's still red on one side then your Color Temp. Zones are not all equal.

For the next 2 photos, I had to exposed for the background and the foreground separately due to the limited dynamic range of my DSLR... What the projector was throwing out was the combination of the properly exposed back and foreground.

Exposed for background

Exposed for foreground



May I ask,
do you have a Nikon?


Hey Congrats on the excellent purchase! The pics look great.

Red push is the most common thing I see on a typical CRT set-up. It means that all or part of the screen is not producing true 6500K (white) but is actually shifted lower to Red, maybe 3500K or somwhere in between. Look at the first pic. in this post, that's Red push.
http://www.curtpalme.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=1908&highlight=
I would have to guess that your Red Drive is too high. go into Service menu, color temp., adjust 6500k. Push Enter until the Red Drive adjustment comes up. Then push the # key until the full white pattern comes up. Ramp Red Drive down to about 27, then raise /lower until screen is white, not Red or blue.
if it's still red on one side then your Color Temp. Zones are not all equal.

Wow... really a lot of work...... well hope my installer knows how to do it..... lotsa of reading up for me... anyway thanks Draganm... you've been really helpful...

Rajdude, I have a canon 20d.... superb camera.

Finally managed to find some time to get the installation done...

Look at the amount of manpower required...
http://i94.photobucket.com/albums/l86/whowillbe/CRT%20Projector/install1.jpg

http://i94.photobucket.com/albums/l86/whowillbe/CRT%20Projector/install2.jpg

See the amount of space that it occupies...
http://i94.photobucket.com/albums/l86/whowillbe/CRT%20Projector/install3.jpg

It will be a big improvement from that teeny little TV that I see there in the last picture! :)

It will be a big improvement from that teeny little TV that I see there in the last picture! :)

Hahaha

That teeny little TV was used to test whether there are signals coming through the fibre optics... don't really watch any TV programs... projector is for DVDs only...

Very pretty case and a great projector! Any chance we can get close-ups of the front, top, sides and rear of the projector?

Very pretty case and a great projector! Any chance we can get close-ups of the front, top, sides and rear of the projector?

I'll post up some closed up pics....

You're going to need a LOT of keystone correction for that setup. Your setup angle is rather extreme.

Any time the lower edge of the projector is above the top edge of the screen, you're looking
at a challenging setup. I would recommend lowering the projector as much as you can stand to lower it. Or raise the screen a little.

And I HOPE you did some pre-testing to ensure that you are going to get a suitable screen
size while making full use of the available phosphor area on the CRTs. The distance from
the PJ to the screen should be 1.25 times the width of the screen. This setup ratio works
well for home theater applications with typical lenses found on Marquees, but is NOT what
the throw charts in the Marquee manual say. Those charts should indeed be thrown...OUT.

CJ

You're going to need a LOT of keystone correction for that setup. Your setup angle is rather extreme.
yeah that angle is going to require a lot of keystone, and that will limit your H -size. You want H-size of around 85-90 to use all of the tube face and maximise the tubes light output and Horizontal resolution ability.
I bet your friends would be thrilled to help you lower the PJ. :D
Raising the screen is the other option but I like screens that don't require a severe angle to the viewing position, makes for fatigue in the neck/shoulders of the audience.

. . .
I bet your friends would be thrilled to help you lower the PJ. :D
. . . ..

Perhaps not if he won't let them wear jeans and non-dress shirts when they do it!

:D

Gary I doubt he made people dress up just hang a V1, even though it's a very nice projector :D I'm guessing he did the same thing we do over here, offered to buy Piza and Beer and Invited friends over after work on a Friday and everyone was still dressep up? Then again, not sure they even eat Pizza in Singapore? :confused: :)
Actually i'm very impressed that 2 guys are standing on ladders and holding a 190 pound projector. That's one party I'm glad I missed. :D

Those guys were from the reseller... had to pay for the installation... Actually there was a third guy hidden behind the projector draganm...

Anyway I can't have it any lower because of WAF... also if I shift the screen any higher, would get neck strain....

You want H-size of around 85-90 to use all of the tube face and maximise the tubes light output and Horizontal resolution ability.
If I increase the H-size, wouldn't I end up with a bigger screen size? Cause right now, the screen size is 80" diagonal for 16:9. Any bigger would have to turn my neck to watch...
For info, the horizontal distance from lens to projector is about 2.2metres which is about 86" and the viewing distance is about 3.3m which is about 129".

With a light path distance of 129 inches (center of green lens to center of screen) then your optimal screen width, based on max raster usage, should be about 103 inches WIDTH.

Your offset angle is about 20 degrees relative to the tubes.

The factory specs say that you must not exceed 15 degrees!

Your schiempflug adjustment will NOT deliver acceptable performance at this angle.

Your 80" diagonal, 16x9 screen is 69.7 inches wide and it should be 103!


Your phosphor utilization:

Set up for a screen width of 103 inches, your screen area is 2990 square inches.
Set up for the screen you have, your screen area is 1370 inches.

You'll be using 45.8 percent of the phosphor area you SHOULD be using.

This is a VERY poor setup, not optimal in ANY way, or even close to it.

I strongly suggest that you rethink this setup. You have a very nice projector,
but you won't get a very nice picture out of it if you don't set it up properly.


Here is the Marquee user's manual which includes detailed setup data. Use it.

http://www.vdcdisplaysystems.com/pdf/Marquee_Ultra_User-Master__V2.pdf

But remember, the lens throw charts are not what you should go by. They are not
"max raster" numbers, and for home theater, you do want to use max raster.


CJ

thanks man cmjohnson... gosh i didn't know that the lens throw chart is so unaccurate... its indeed a pleasant surprise to know that i can go much bigger.

the distance between the tip of the lenses and the screen is critical and is dependant on screen size . If your projector has HD10GT17 lenses they are rated for screens of 91 to 114" wide (not diagonal)
Even if your running straigth HD10's on a 71" wide screen is still too small. Check out this chart, even though your not running within the PJ's recomended angle of 10% it's a good starting point. Since your closer to 15 degree's or more you migth be able to get away with a set of HD10L's? check out the bottom of page 87

http://www.vdcdisplaysystems.com/pdf/Marquee_Ultra_User-Master__V2.pdf

With a light path distance of 129 inches (center of green lens to center of screen) then your optimal screen width, based on max raster usage, should be about 103 inches WIDTH." numbers, and for home theater, you do want to use max raster.


CJ
you misread his post CJ, it's 129" to the viewers, distance between screen and green lense is only 86"

Yeah, you're right. I misread that. It happens when posting late on a Sunday night.

Ok, so make proportionate corrections.

What's the actual center of green lens to center of screen distance?

Multiply by .8 and that's your best screen width, making all the practical use of the phosphor you can get away with in 16:9.

He's still no-go on the projection angle and still throwing a small raster.


CJ

you misread his post CJ, it's 129" to the viewers, distance between screen and green lense is only 86"

Hi draganm,

Yes, I'm using HD10GT17... DO you mean to say that I'm better off using HD10L lenses??? If so, is the HD10L lenses more expensive than the HD1-GT17 lenses???

Hi people,

If you have followed this thread, you would realised that my HDM board was just swapped recently...

So whatr happened is that all is going well... I've been running in the projector for about 8 hrs since the HDM board change...

However last night when I was watching a movie, the projector suddenyl stopped putting out an image, then after about 5 seconds, the an image came back but the image is not of the movie but rather an image of a messy signal as if the projector is not syncing properly with the DVD player...

I pressed the # button and the test patterns appeared as usual then after a while, the projector went blank again then after a while image reappeared...

It seems that if I were to leave the projector alone, the disappearing and reappearing of the image would occur continuously.

So I turn off the projector and turn it back on, pesto everything was back to normal, but about 20 mins later, the projector act up again...

So does anyone have any idea??? Would appreciate advise.... thanks.

Hi guys,

Remember that I shared about this problem once? Well it returned last night... below is a link to show you what was the problem...



http://i94.photobucket.com/albums/l86/whowillbe/th_SV_A0012.jpg (http://s94.photobucket.com/albums/l86/whowillbe/?action=view&current=SV_A0012.flv)

However I tilted the camera 90 degrees so the video is upright :p , In the video you can see that when a video signal is choosen, somehow it doesn't sync with the projector and somewhere in the 23s-27s of the video, you can see the projector switching off then on again with the picture zooming in...

Would appreciate advise from anyone who has encountered this problem before.

Dude. That thing will drive you to the loony bin. Trade that beast in for a new infocus or get one of these crazy people to buy it and go back to digital. :)

How much is the frieght from there to the US?

Dude. That thing will drive you to the loony bin. Trade that beast in for a new infocus or get one of these crazy people to buy it and go back to digital. :)

How much is the frieght from there to the US?

Hahaha you're interested in it???

noise in the Horizontal delfection module. Since you already replaced the HDM once, I think the noise is coming from LVPS (low voltage power supply) +85V rail which feeds the HDM. Which BTW is what i've been saying all along. ;)

Have you lowered the unit somewhat or raised the screen? Your offset angle is outside the 15 degree Scheimpflug limit by 5 degrees. There's no way you'll achieve optimal top and
bottom screen focus like that.

CJ

He whowillbe,

Did you fixed your Vidikron Vision One. Is it now working properly.

I am curious if you like your projector.

Paul

He whowillbe,

Did you fixed your Vidikron Vision One. Is it now working properly.

I am curious if you like your projector.

Paul

like is an understatement....

draganm,

remember that you said that you believe the problem is most prob from the LVPS... I guess you're right. Cause now the projector refuses to be switched on. Whever I press the power button, there will be a repeating clicking sound from the projector. and the LVPS error light will be on.... Guess got to call my reseller again...
anyway does anyone have the contact to Rob Seaman, he's formerly from Vidikron...

I wouldn't bother with Vidikron, they didn't buld any of the parts in there and will simply mark-up already expensive parts. Just get a new LVPS from Flea-bay or Clarity , they are cheap and plentiful. I will post the part number tonight, you want a 1998 or newer LVPS. Also, make sure you clean the LVPS male connector before installing the new supply, lots of dirt collects back there and will cause problems on the lower voltage rails.

draganm,

remember that you said that you believe the problem is most prob from the LVPS... I guess you're right. Cause now the projector refuses to be switched on. Whever I press the power button, there will be a repeating clicking sound from the projector. and the LVPS error light will be on.... Guess got to call my reseller again...
anyway does anyone have the contact to Rob Seaman, he's formerly from Vidikron...

Clicking noise.......ca-chunk...ca-chunk...ca-chunk? Remove the focus board from the chassis and try powerup again, perhaps a melted opamp.........

Clicking noise.......ca-chunk...ca-chunk...ca-chunk? Remove the focus board from the chassis and try powerup again, perhaps a melted opamp.........

Hi Tim and Draganm,

I tried plugging out the LVPS and cleared up the dust before placing it back. Then I pulled out the Focus board and tried to power up which did so very nicely. Next I slot the focus board back in again and tried to power up which did so very nicely too so I thought "Great all my problem is solved already." Well all went well for 3 hours. Then I went to sleep and tried to power up the projector when I woke up today and OMG, the problem came back again ie. the projector won't power up and there's the continuously clicking sound as describe by Tim.

well it's either LVPS or FM, it's simply up to you to figure out which one. ;) Try running without the FM, if it powers every time then that module is bad.
I remember early in the thread you talking about vertical yellow bands in the projected image, could be pointing to bad FM.
BTW, there's a section of red lights on in front of LVPS, are any of these lit when the projector relays are cycling and unit doesn't power up?

well it's either LVPS or FM, it's simply up to you to figure out which one. ;) Try running without the FM, if it powers every time then that module is bad.
I remember early in the thread you talking about vertical yellow bands in the projected image, could be pointing to bad FM.
BTW, there's a section of red lights on in front of LVPS, are any of these lit when the projector relays are cycling and unit doesn't power up?

Hi draganm, well the projector can power up without the FM, but after that when I plug back the FM, everything seemed fine... however after a movie or two, my twin problems will surface again
1) the disappearing and reappearing of picture will happen again, this happened to someone too who posted in Curt's forum. "Hi, I am having a problem with a Marquee 9500LC Ultra. Recently after approx 2 hours all three tubes would go off and the picture would come back large and out of focus, then focus up and then go off again. After 5 seconds or so picture comes back and goes off after a second, this repeats over and over. Leave the projector to cool down for a few hours and all is Ok, the time this fault reappears has reduced to an hour and now is present when you fire it up from cold. I have reseated CLM and HDM which cured things for a while or so I thought. I have been unable to isolate which tube is causing the problem as when the fault is occuring I have turned of each tube one by one but the on/off cycle still happens on one colour at a time. Any ideas? MadMrH has seen the fault so may be able to add more. "


2) sometimes the unit will fail to power up and there will be a clicking sound (when this happens, LVPS LED will light up) and this is rather similar to what Gino experienced. http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=745182

So now I do not know whether the problem lies in both the LVPS and HVPS or just HVPS/LVPS

Anyway the earlier problem about banding was resolved a long time ago. It was most probably source related. After changing DVD player, the problem disappeared.

Also Patrick loaned me a Faroudja Line Quadrupler and guess what... using the OPPO 970 to upscale to 1080i converted using Ophit DDA yielded a much smoother and filmlike picture than the quadrupler.... the Ophit DDA is rather amazing...

I have always suspected a bad LVPS in that machine. Try a new one, it's cheap for $100. or less and easy to replace, just 2 screws.

I have always suspected a bad LVPS in that machine. Try a new one, it's cheap for $100. or less and easy to replace, just 2 screws.

Do you mean that the main culprit is the LVPS and not the HVPS??? because for the 1st problem which I mentioned (the disappearing and reappearing of the pic) Curt said that its the HVPS.

So could it be the LVPS which then affect the HVPS or the other way round...???

LVPS feeds HVPS, the LV is obviously bad and needs replacing. If you want to replace both I'm not going to stop you. ;)

LVPS feeds HVPS, the LV is obviously bad and needs replacing. If you want to replace both I'm not going to stop you. ;)

okay got it.... you've been a great help!!! :D

Didn't he have a 6 month warranty?

yes i do have a 6 months warranty but i'm asking around as a backup... :)

Did you ever lower your projector or raise the screen to get within the 15 degree throw angle that is mandatory to get within the range at which Scheimpflug will work?


If not, you really need to do that because you'll NEVER achieve good results if you don't.


Your setup was sitting at a 20 degree throw angle before, and that's just too much by 5 degrees.


CJ

Did you ever lower your projector or raise the screen to get within the 15 degree throw angle that is mandatory to get within the range at which Scheimpflug will work?


If not, you really need to do that because you'll NEVER achieve good results if you don't.


Your setup was sitting at a 20 degree throw angle before, and that's just too much by 5 degrees.


CJ

Hi CJ.

Nope I've not gotten around to doing that... but will do that once the teething problems with my projector is settled... thanks for your advise. :)

anyone seen this happened before???

http://i94.photobucket.com/albums/l86/whowillbe/CRT%20Projector/IMG_4419.jpg

watching movies halfway and black lines just appeared... the picture above is gotten when i used the internal test signal generator to produce as white screen so that the lines can be clearly seen.

First guess..sync issue. Source or PJ? Can't tell from here.


CJ

First guess..sync issue. Source or PJ? Can't tell from here.


CJ

this problem is intermittent... it'll go away once i restart the projector.

wow, that's scary. The first thing I thought of when I saw that is SPOT BURN. You can actually burn lines like those into your $10K tubes by displaying a deflection failure like the one in your pic.
I would not run that set unless you can figure out what's wrong. A new LVPS is priority one, then go from there. Problems with the AC power from your apartment comes to mind as another possibility based on another thread here.

I have a small question concerning the Vidikron Vision One (i just bought a couple of this units together with a Madrigal MP9 unit). I can not exactly find out on which serie of the Marquee it is based is it the 9500 LC or is it the 9500 LC Ultra.

Whowillbe sorry for taking over shortly your topic.

The Vision One was no longer available by the time the Ultra came out, so a Vision One will
never be based on an Ultra chassis.

I think this also applies to the MP9 but I'm not very sure of that.


CJ

wow, that's scary. The first thing I thought of when I saw that is SPOT BURN. You can actually burn lines like those into your $10K tubes by displaying a deflection failure like the one in your pic.
I would not run that set unless you can figure out what's wrong. A new LVPS is priority one, then go from there. Problems with the AC power from your apartment comes to mind as another possibility based on another thread here.

draganm, you mean, you've seen such lines before??? Well if this happens again, do I have to take any special precautions in turning off the projector?

I've just gotten a HVPS and LVPS off ebay... so waiting for them now... paid a total of USD340 (excluding shipping) for both of them off ebay.

Guys!

A few Visions got built with Ultra chassis, I took one in on trade in 2003. And I am pretty sure that all of the Madrigal MPs were Ultras as they rolled out at CEDIA 1999, when Ultras had been out for nearly a year.

latest update about my woes... :o

the last time my installer came to my place to troubleshoot, when he switched on the projector, we could hear a loud arcing sound from the HVPS and the railroad lights came on. My installer had to pull out the CLM and plug in back in before the projector will show an image again...

so it must be the HVPS fault. Now awaiting delivery of the HVPS + LVPS from 1egor2. :)

latest update about my woes... :o
the last time my installer came to my place to troubleshoot, when he switched on the projector, we could hear a loud arcing sound from the HVPS and the railroad lights came on. My installer had to pull out the CLM and plug in back in before the projector will show an image again...
so it must be the HVPS fault. Now awaiting delivery of the HVPS + LVPS from 1egor2. :)
I hate to sound rude, but your installer doesn't know what he's doing. When the CLM locks up you don't just pull it out of the machine with everything powered up. There is a small re-set button on the CLM that needs to be pushed with a pencil tip to re-set a machine that's powered on and not responding to commands.
Have you checked the buildings AC power? if your not getting a steady 220VAC then it could be causing a lot of problems with your projector. You have had so many problems with that machine that it just doesn't seem normal. Check out what tim found in his home
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=746802

I hate to sound rude, but your installer doesn't know what he's doing. When the CLM locks up you don't just pull it out of the machine with everything powered up. There is a small re-set button on the CLM that needs to be pushed with a pencil tip to re-set a machine that's powered on and not responding to commands.
Have you checked the buildings AC power? if your not getting a steady 220VAC then it could be causing a lot of problems with your projector. You have had so many problems with that machine that it just doesn't seem normal. Check out what tim found in his home
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=746802

Hi dragamn... no worries... you're giving me so much invaluable advice... :)

its my fault that i wasn;t clear enough... when the loud arcing sound was heard, my installer powered down the projector before pulling out the CLM.

Check the AC power??? Hmm i'm not too sure how to do that but I honestly dun think that would be the problem because Singapore has very stringent building regulations...

Also just to sidetrack, i'm thinking of getting a second crt proj to play around with. Between sony 1270 and BG 801, which do you think is better?

Hi,

I have an NEC PG9 extra with slight burn on Blue tue, if you interested.

Marcus Gan

BTW looking forward to trouble shoot your Vision One with you.

Hi Whowillbe,

how are you? is your Vision One working again?

Paul

woah... i'm back after a period of 'silence'...

i've just ordered another HVPS from 1egor2 after the first one that arrived from him was dead (though I would believe its no fault of his).

Meanwhile the projector seemed to be running fine after i swapped the LVPS (also from 1egor2)

The projector was much more stable, no arcing, no disappearing/reappearing - out of focus to becoming focused picture.

however 2 faults still exist...

1) the railroad lights error. Which tend to happen if I turn the projector on without leaving it connected to the power mains for an extended period of time.

2) http://i94.photobucket.com/albums/l86/whowillbe/CRT%20Projector/IMG_4419.jpg. For this error, my installer said that he believed its still due to the HVPS error thus leading me to get a second HVPS from 1egor2. So crossing me fingers that it'll reach me safely.

However i've got a new error which happened just last night...

The green convergence is started drifting by itself when I was watching Cars...... so does anyone know wht could be the problem???? CRT is really a challenging hobby.

1) the railroad lights error. Which tend to happen if I turn the projector on without leaving it connected to the power mains for an extended period of time.




Hello

Remove the power cord and wait two minutes. Locate the deflection processor board, it is mounted on top of the control board (rear panel, flashing lites). Remove the DPB and get some denatured alcohol or contact cleaner and get a PLCC chip puller tool. Remove U7 from DPB, clean socket and chip edges with alcohol, reassemble and try.

Hello

Remove the power cord and wait two minutes. Locate the deflection processor board, it is mounted on top of the control board (rear panel, flashing lites). Remove the DPB and get some denatured alcohol or contact cleaner and get a PLCC chip puller tool. Remove U7 from DPB, clean socket and chip edges with alcohol, reassemble and try.

hi tim... thanks for the advice... will try it...

So what happened with this Vidikron? The silence is deafening...

Hello?

hi.. i'm so sorry that i've not reply to this thread for a long time... just realised that its not right of me to update the fix...

Too be honest, I'm also not exactly sure what's the fix... I basically ordered 2 HVPS and 1 LVPS from 1egor2. The 2 HVPS failed after a couple of hrs but the LVPS was working fine. SO I tried swopping around and discovered that when I used the LVPS from 1egor2 with my original HVPS, most of my previous problems were gone...

However after a while, the problem with the horizontal lines which HK-Steve is experiencing popped up again. I solved it by pulling out the CLM chips and cleaning the contacts then plug them back in...

After a month of running steadily, the V1 started acting up with the horizontal lines and this time round, i took out the CLM board and removed the 2 daughter boards and cleaned the contacts and the problem disappeared again... now crossing my fingers that everything is fine.

With that many intermittent problems I would get a spare fully working low hour Marquee 8500 and swap all the boards one at a time one after another giving the time between each swap for the projector to possibly develop the problems until you have no more problems with it.

If that doesn't do the trick I would do the board swap the other way around swapping the Vidikron boards into the 8500.

Why did you revive a 3 month dead thread?

I'll swap it for a Sony Ruby :) (or a Pearl) or even 2

Its a much better digital technology - I'll even throw in 20 spare globes.

And set it up for you. Deal?

:)

I'll swap it for a Sony Ruby :) (or a Pearl) or even 2

Its a much better digital technology - I'll even throw in 20 spare globes.

And set it up for you. Deal?

:)

you serious??? Well I can take 2 JVC RS1 instead... :)

yes...

it was updated in another thread. yup its been running strong for the past year.

I'm making a HUGE assumption here, but if whowillbe got his set from the same place that I bought a couple of surplus sets from overseas, they needed MASSIVE amounts of work to get them going. I got two Visions from overseas and both had glycol leaks which toasted a bunch of stuff. One of the chassis had super low hours on it, but still.

I don't know why these sets had all of these problems. My suspicion was that the dealer used these sets as parts mules for others in the field, and put a bunch of bad boards from the field into the two units I got. That still doesn't explain the glycol leaks.

Once they were all cleaned up though, they ran fine and I sold them.

The companion pair to the the two that went to Holland, Curt? Those two were clean I believe, but still were completely rebuild. The first one is now sold, but the second one is still awaiting a buyer, I believe. They fitted wear free PLUGs in the machine.

Seems your assumption was correct!

I'm thinking of getting an LC set too, the NEC 1352. How do you make sure you don't have the glycol spill out? At the same time I don't want too little and have the tube implode. I read a thread on your site about a guy with an LC set and the glycol and glycerin mixture became too low. Would that ever make me mad!


I've never heard of a stock NEC tube leaking in a set (Curt may have), closest is a VDC tube leaking for Don Kellogg.

I'm making a HUGE assumption here, but if whowillbe got his set from the same place that I bought a couple of surplus sets from overseas, they needed MASSIVE amounts of work to get them going. I got two Visions from overseas and both had glycol leaks which toasted a bunch of stuff. One of the chassis had super low hours on it, but still.I don't know why these sets had all of these problems. My suspicion was that the dealer used these sets as parts mules for others in the field, and put a bunch of bad boards from the field into the two units I got. That still doesn't explain the glycol leaks.
Once they were all cleaned up though, they ran fine and I sold them.
Yes, whowillbe's machine came from that same place. The reason they were so trashed is as you suspected, these were parts mules. I'm pretty sure the owner was shocked at what you guys wound up paying for the machines. I looked into it but the $1700. in freight alone was enough to scare me off. ;)Also, singapore has like 90% average humidity, and that is REALLY bad for the LC chambers in a CRT as they absorb a lot pf mosture and swell, eventually causing a leak.
whowillbe, it's really good to hear your 9500 is now solid. I would recomend removing one of the drain screws on each tube and letting the excess pressure blead off.

Yes, whowillbe's machine came from that same place. The reason they were so trashed is as you suspected, these were parts mules. I'm pretty sure the owner was shocked at what you guys wound up paying for the machines. I looked into it but the $1700. in freight alone was enough to scare me off. ;)Also, singapore has like 90% average humidity, and that is REALLY bad for the LC chambers in a CRT as they absorb a lot pf mosture and swell, eventually causing a leak.
whowillbe, it's really good to hear your 9500 is now solid. I would recomend removing one of the drain screws on each tube and letting the excess pressure blead off.

Yes I believe there were from the same place... well I believe that Curt and Dragamn were both right, that the shop used those projectors as spare parts in fact, when the Vision One started developing problems, they weren't able to provide the support they were supposed to as the 2 projectors were shipped overseas... guess I deserved it then....

Anyway after reading on this forum, and tinkering around with the projector, I've found that the Marquee is a really easy machine to work... :)

Draganm, I've already loosen the screw to release the excess pressure after I found glycol leaking out of the chassis and I also readjusted my projector as recommended by your guys earlier in the thread and you all were so right, the image were better. :)

Ok, why are we feeding a Vision 1 a DVD signal in this day and age???

Hi Whowillbe,

I think I can solve your Vidikron Vision One's problems.
I have all the spare parts and solved similar problems before.

Please contact me if you need any help or advice. Please use my previous email to contact me. :)