A question I see come up a lot here (naturally enough) is "how do I get HD video and audio from my device(s) in room A to rooms B and C in my house?" There are many different answers - Fiber-optic HDMI (extremely expensive and requires a matrix switch), multiple runs of RG-6 coax cable, and Cat5e cable with Component baluns at each end to convert the signals are the most common for longer/inter-floor runs. There are also two products (that I am aware of) that make the process of running HD-quality component video, digital and analog audio, and even IR remote pathways over CAT5e cable infinitely easier:

The Audio Authority 9870 (usually sold in a kit with one "transmitter" that feeds two "receivers").

The CE Labs CAT5TX and CAT5RX (usually sold by the piece).

My setup is this: I have my HD sources upstairs in a media room/dedicated theater - Dish HD622DVR, XBox 360, Oppo DVD - hooked up to my Optoma HD78DC3 projector that puts a very nice 720p image on a 110' Da-Lite screen. This is the room where I focus most of my effort on making things look and sound as good as possible - HDMI cable runs to the projector, calibrated video/audio, etc. It's the movie room where I get to be a giant home theater nerd like everyone else here. And, like most everyone else, I dislike having to buy/rent/lease two or three different Satellite receivers, etc for each TV, and deal with DVR issues such as the always popular "honey, we can't watch this here, we have to go upstairs to where it was recorded" situation.

Elsewhere in my house I have two recently purchased LCD TV's - Vizio brand (Costco) one a 32' and one a 37'. Not the most spectacular TV's in the world, but they display a very nice HD image, sound good, and are cheap (and thanks to Costco have a lifetime warranty). Spending thousands of dollars on fiber-optic HDMI cable just to get HD from the same source(s) to them wasn't an option - that would have cost more than the TV's! Dragging multiple thick, expensive RG-6 cables wasn't something I relished doing either, and would have required additional gear to get the IR distribution working in any case (and the IR over Coax solutions I found weren't cheap). CAT-5e cable, on the other hand, is cheap (in my case, free, as I have thousands of feet left over from a previous store build out) and easy to run compared to Coax, especially when you're sweating your life away in an attic and trying to drill a big enough hole through some wooden studs to run the stuff. I previously hadn't considered it because I've never read many good things about the Component-CAT-5 "baluns" but then I found the two products I mention above.

Both feature the following:

Amplified RGB component video, stereo analog audio, and digital (coax) audio over two CAT5e cables.

Passive IR remote pathways that work with the most common IR distribution systems, such as those from Xantech or Channel Vision.

Receivers that feed up to two displays, and offer "loop" ports to either directly hook up a third local display device or daisy chain additional receivers to drive even more remote displays.

Adjustable amplifiers that allow you to fine tune the signal strength to the length of cable run.

One year manufacturer warranties.

Differences:

Audio Authority claims the 9870 has higher bandwidth (120mhz) vs. the CAT5TX (50mhz although I haven't seen that stated anywhere by CE Labs). I can't personally test this but I have no reason to disbelieve them. This mostly, from what I can tell, translates in to increased range - 1,000ft for HD via the 9870 vs. 300ft for the CAT5TX. That said in my 3,000sq ft house none of my cables approached even 150ft even after being run through the attic/walls so take that as you will.

The 9870 uses a dual-gang in wall design with a stainless steel faceplate; the network cables connect in the back, out of sight, and power is provided over the cables themselves - no need for a power adapter at the remote source. It appears to be by far the "cleaner" install of the two.

The CAT5TX/RX's are small rectangular boxes (about the size of two decks of cards) that surface mount to the wall, they also require external 12v power, the adapters for which are provided.

How important looks are to you depend on your install, of course; if you're like me and you just hide this stuff behind the TV with all the other cables anyway then what either of them look like probably doesn't matter in the end.

The 9870 is made in the USA while the CAT5TX/RX do not appear to be (CE Labs does have an office in Texas who dealt with me).

Support wise both companies were very responsive to my questions; I usually got a response back within a day or so via email/PM from both and the answers provided were informative and detailed.

The last detail that separates the two is, of course, price. I've been on AVSForum a long time, long enough to know how sensitive some folks get over price discussions/vendors/etc so I'll just say that the cheapest I found the CAT5TX/RX "package" (one TX, two RX) was from Beach Audio, and the cheapest I found the AA 9870 was from Digital Connection (the kit with one transmitter and two receivers) and the total cost for the CAT5TX/RX package was over $200 less than for the AA 9870.

Since the increased distance/bandwidth didn't concern me for my setup, I could care less about looks, and both companies answered my questions quickly and have similar warranties, I ended up choosing the CE Labs product. That doesn't mean I think less of Audio Authority, in fact I have another project coming up (I own several LAN gaming centers) where I'll need to do long component video runs from XBox 360's to remote projectors and the 9870 looks like it will be a better fit for that. For my house, however, I have modest needs, and a (cough) modest budget, and so the CAT5TX/RX carried the day.

I’ll skip the fun part, namely the running of two CAT-5e cables each from my upstairs media room to my downstairs living room and bedroom, other than to say that if you don’t have experience doing retrofit installs or have the right tools (including the ever-valuable 6 foot flexible drill bit, which allowed me to get through a tough top stud near the roofline from the inside without having to tear up the walls) then you may well want to hire your local low-voltage cable installer to do it for you. Most large/medium size electrical companies contract those guys out and believe me, you will save yourself a lot of trouble in the end. Heck, after sweating out about 15 pounds in my attic I wished I had even though I know perfectly well how to do it.

Once the cables were installed, terminated, and tested, installation of the CAT5TX and RX units was extremely simple – pick place to mount, mount to wall, plug in power, plug in IR (more on this in a bit) plug in CAT-5e cables, plug in sources and displays, done. That part took all of 20 minutes, most of that spent mounting the things.

For IR I used Channel Vision, because they are far cheaper than Xantech and work just as well. I used the following pieces:

IR-2105 Receivers (2): This is a small “stick” type receiver, it has active feedback (blinks when you send a command to it) which can be later turned off and a “plasma” shield that basically acts as a focus to block out backscatter and unwanted IR signals– it can be removed if you don’t need it. Works perfectly well for me attached to the top corner of each TV.

IR-3002 Dual Flasher Emitters (2) – these are the ones you stick on the components themselves, they also flash when receiving commands (you can buy non-flashing versions) and are pass-through, so you can still use your regular remote(s) locally.

P1205 IR Distribution Hub – I forgot this initially; basically in this setup it’s just used to provide power to the receivers as the CAT5TX/RX handles the distribution. I didn’t realize at first that neither the CAT5TX nor the 9870 provide power to the IR pathway – when they say passive, they mean it :). Once I added one P1205 at the TX end I was set.

The IR distribution works perfectly and commands are processed just like I was sitting in front of the components. I was and am very pleased with how this worked out, and for cheap too – less than $150 total from Accessories4less.com (who are a fantastic vendor btw, shipped everything promptly and cheaply).

BUT, you must now be asking, how does it look and sound?

To sum that up: Just as good as if it were local.

I am currently using my Onkyo receiver as a Component video/digital audio switch with the CAT5TX, that way I can have 3 sources feeding all the TV’s at a whim. To test, I hauled my 32’ Vizio (thank God for LCD) upstairs and hooked it up locally using a 10’ component cable and calibrated it with Video Essentials/Avia as I do with all my displays. To my untrained and probably biased eye the picture looks exactly the same whether it is locally hooked up or transmitted over the CAT5TX/RX – there’s no “snow”, artifacts, softness, distortion, or anything else effecting the video or audio on either set. My bedroom set is using regular stereo audio and my living room is hooked up to a 5.1 system – the only trouble I had with the latter was finding an optical to coaxial converter as my Onkyo receiver only outputs digital audio over optical and the CAT5TX/RX (and the 9870) only accept coax (I found the POF-830 at Triangle Cables.com for $30 which works fine). Once that was done DD and DTS 5.1 sound was transmitted perfectly to my living room receiver.

All in all I am pleased as punch with this setup; for under $500 total – including IR receivers/emitters/power, the CAT5TX/RX units, and the converter for optical to coaxial digital audio – I got a setup that just a couple years ago would have been either 10 times as expensive or impossible to get. Of course, I am leaving out the cabling itself – I did it, and had help and my own materials, but I imagine for most folks that part will end up costing more than the rest put together, and even if you do do it yourself it’s still a PITA. Whatever the case, I’m done now, and have a single set of HD devices viewable on any TV in the house. For kicks, I ran a 50’ RGB cable to an older TV in yet another room (upstairs, so attic access made it easier) and use that with the Dish 622’s own distribution/TV2 output.

Here’s some pics of the whole thing:

This is the receiver end; ignore my messy cables (my short RGB cables from Monoprice haven’t arrived yet).

http://img461.imageshack.us/img461/5458/behindtvbh7.th.jpg (http://img461.imageshack.us/my.php?image=behindtvbh7.jpg)

Here’s the transmitter before I mounted it; behind it is the P1205 IR Distribution hub. Again, ignore the cable mess, this was before I tied everything up.

http://img172.imageshack.us/img172/5434/transmitterot3.th.jpg (http://img172.imageshack.us/my.php?image=transmitterot3.jpg)

Here’s what the bedroom TV looks like with everything set up – I love the “no cables” look, and my wife loves me more because of it :-). I moved the power plugs up the wall last weekend – much easier than running CAT-5e I can tell you!

http://img483.imageshack.us/img483/9232/bedtvzg0.th.jpg (http://img483.imageshack.us/my.php?image=bedtvzg0.jpg)

Hope this was helpful to some of you!

Very nice review

Great review, fascinating reading. Thanks so much for taking the time to write this up.

Thanks for taking the initiative. It's impossible to find objective reviews for long HD runs.

I just found about about the CATTX/RX.. this review was fantastic! Thanks so much... BTW.. should any of you have a Worthington account, these are $88/ea there.

-Steven

Ix, thanks for the detailed review. I ordered a CAT5RX and TX last week and they arrive today. I'm pumped to test them out with my HD-A1 player to see if I can distribute my HD-DVDs between the projector in my theater downstairs and my living room plasma.

I'll post my impressions in here in a day or two.

I have a stupid question, but I'm just starting to investigate this technology. I'm running my TiVo units over coax cable right now distributed to other tvs in the house, but I'd love to get component quality and be ready to upgrade to HDTV signal when series 3 TIVO is out.

Does it take 2 cat5 runs per set to work? I see two cables coming out of your wall.

thank you.

Just thought I'd comment on my experience with my HD-A1 HD DVD player running over this setup. It looks great! I'm very pleased with the quality over 50 ft Cat 5E. I'm going to try to set up the loop output as well so that I can broadcast my HD DVDs to my projector in the theater as well as the plasma upstairs at the same time. Very cool stuff.

Now I have to order the IR blocks so I don't have to keep running downstairs to toggle settings. :)


PAP, to answer your question, yes it takes 2 Cat5 runs per receiver. The basic CAT5TX will broadcast to 2 rooms via 4 Cat5 cables. Each CAT5RX then receives the 2 cables.

Does anyone know if there is an IP based solution? I have cat5 already installed throughout the house and would rather use my network to do this instead of running a point to point Cat5. IP would work much better in this case.

Thanks!

Great review.

Thanks

Hey Ix,

I sent you a PM regarding some of your IR setup. I have a few questions on connecting the P1205 hub to the CAT5TX. Thanks!

Great review and excellent information. Thanks for telling us about your experience with video over Cat5. I am building a house and was dreading the cost and hassle of running 5 coax cables to every room with a display. I will now go with cat5 runs instead, probably the Audio Authority route though since the installation is much cleaner.

Anyway, the sharing of this information is what helps everyone in this hobby get to a higher level which in turn drives future innovation.

I am still amazed that simple cat5 can carry the video signals that it does.

Just got my CE Labs CAT5TX and CAT5RX devices today. I'm having a problem with the video. I first tested the devices with two short 3' cat5 patch cables just to make sure that it would work before testing it with my longer run cat5e cables. The picture looked fantastic with the short patch cables, but with my longer cat5e DIY cables I'm only getting sound and no picture. I crimped the cat5e cable ends myself, but unfortunately I don't have a cable tester. The video cable continuity lights (on the CAT5RX) are all on so I would assume that the cables are crimped properly. Like I said, I get no picture at all, but the sound (analog) is clear as day.

Do the two cat5e cables need to be the exact same length? In my case one cable might be slightly longer than the other. I wouldn't think this would be the cause.

Anybody have any suggestions? I will try to borrow a cable tester from work, but I would like to get this working ASAP.

Just got my CE Labs CAT5TX and CAT5RX devices today. I'm having a problem with the video. I first tested the devices with two short 3' cat5 patch cables just to make sure that it would work before testing it with my longer run cat5e cables. The picture looked fantastic with the short patch cables, but with my longer cat5e DIY cables I'm only getting sound and no picture. I crimped the cat5e cable ends myself, but unfortunately I don't have a cable tester. The video cable continuity lights (on the CAT5RX) are all on so I would assume that the cables are crimped properly. Like I said, I get no picture at all, but the sound (analog) is clear as day.

Do the two cat5e cables need to be the exact same length? In my case one cable might be slightly longer than the other. I wouldn't think this would be the cause.

Anybody have any suggestions? I will try to borrow a cable tester from work, but I would like to get this working ASAP.

I would assume you tried swapping the cat5e cables (since they take two) to see if that made a difference. I would double check my crimps, making sure you adhered to the color code order necessary, making sure all the ends are pushed to the end of the RJ45 plugs and making sure you didn't knick any of the insulation on the individual conductors when you stripped the outer jacket. Good Luck.

I didn't even think to try swapping the cables. I just now tried this and the audio is still working, but the video is still not. :( I still think it's got to be a cable issue because it worked with the 3' patch cables. Maybe I'll go buy a 25' patch cable for the video (A) side. Not sure if I'll be able to snake this through the conduit without cutting the end off.

Thanks for the suggestions.

UPDATE: After struggling with my setup for quite a while tonight I finally got things working. I re-crimped my CAT5E cables, swapped the TX and RX units around, swapped component cables around, called CE Labs tech support, but it ended up being my remote TV (Toshiba 40H80) only supports 1080i. I happened to look at the front of my Scientific Atlanta 8300HD DVR and noticed the 720P indicator. I then changed the menu setting of the DVR to also output 1080i and bam, I'm getting a great picture on both my TV's. :D I hope this will help someone else that might have this problem.

I am very excited to get these working and am very happy with the picture (and audio) quality.

Dan

OK, after watching TV for a couple of days on my remote Samsung DLP, I'm seeing a slight green tint in peoples skin tone. Would this most likely be caused by one of my component cables or possibly my cat5e cable? I'm willing to swap out some cables but I'm not sure what to try first. Would there be any benefit from buying a shielded Cat5E cable?

Would there be any benefit from buying a shielded Cat5E cable?

Yes, if the video problem is being caused by interference from a power line running parallel to the cat5.

I would double check the picture settings with a calibration DVD before pulling any new wires just in case.

I would double check the picture settings with a calibration DVD before pulling any new wires just in case.

The reason I suspect the cables instead of the the TV settings is because the picture looks great when the DVR is hooked up directly.

Most of the shielded cat5e cables seem to be stranded instead of solid. Would that be a problem for a video signal? I'm willing to spend ~$40 for a 50 ft STP patch cable if it will help.

Thanks for the input.

Most of the shielded cat5e cables seem to be stranded instead of solid. Would that be a problem for a video signal? I'm willing to spend ~$40 for a 50 ft STP patch cable if it will help.



I've never dealt with shielded cat 5 but the fact that is stranded won't matter.

Before you buy the shielded you could pull the wires you are using now out of the wall and run them loose in the house and check the picture quality. If the picture improves then you know the problem is being caused by EMI and it would defintely be worth buying the shielded stuff.

You initially said the picture was good and then you noticed the green tint. Do you think the green tint was there the whole time and you didn't notice or did it develop after a few days? If it developed after having a good picture then it may be worth a call to CE Labs for replacement units.

Before you buy the shielded you could pull the wires you are using now out of the wall and run them loose in the house and check the picture quality. If the picture improves then you know the problem is being caused by EMI and it would defintely be worth buying the shielded stuff.

You initially said the picture was good and then you noticed the green tint. Do you think the green tint was there the whole time and you didn't notice or did it develop after a few days? If it developed after having a good picture then it may be worth a call to CE Labs for replacement units.

When I first tested it I was using 3 ft patch cables, but I might not have noticed the green tint then. I was probably so excited that I was getting a HD picture at all that I didn't pay close enough attention. I think I will go back and test the short cables again to see if I see the green. If I don't I will probably try a longer cable next (not snaked through the wall). If that also looks good, I will probably get the shielded cat5e cable. I don't want my DIY crimped cables to be the weakest link.

When I originally called CE Labs tech support about my "no picture" issue, I asked them if differences in cable length (between the A and B cables) made a difference and they said no. I was told that video and IR are on the "A" cable and that audio (analog and digital) is on the "B". So I should be able to just replace my "A" cable with a STP 50ft patch cable.

Thanks for the help. This forum is great!!!

Dan

Where are you guys finding the CE Labs equipment on the internet? Beach Audio is the only place I have been able to find.

Thanks

Where are you guys finding the CE Labs equipment on the internet?

Buy.com carries them. I was able to sign up for a dealer account at Worthington Distribution. They are definately less at Worthington, but they were also back-ordered so I had to wait for them.

Buy.com carries them. I was able to sign up for a dealer account at Worthington Distribution. They are definately less at Worthington, but they were also back-ordered so I had to wait for them.

How are they listed at worthington? Couldn't find them.

How are they listed at worthington? Couldn't find them.

They are actually in their volume II catalog. I had to call them to order.

Anyone north of the border, find someone selling the CE product (in the Toronto area)

thanks

Sent you a PM Ix.

Thanks to R_Willis for bumping this thread! I had not seen it before and it has been very helpful!

Chris

Thanks for the review.

I see that 2 cat-5 cables are needed for these. Is that a requirement for any configuration? For instance, I just want to run component video and digital audio. Can this be done with just one cat-5 cable or are both always needed? Does anyone have a link to the installation instructions and/or the pinout?

Thanks.

Mark

Both are needed. I was told by CE Labs tech support that video and IR are on the "A" cable and that audio (analog and digital) is on the "B".

I read this thread in its entirety because I will definitely be buying this product for a home I am working on right now. I was wondering why additional IR hardware was needed by the original poster, when there is an IR interface built in to the CAT5TX? Thanks in advance for an answer.

I read this thread in its entirety because I will definitely be buying this product for a home I am working on right now. I was wondering why additional IR hardware was needed by the original poster, when there is an IR interface built in to the CAT5TX? Thanks in advance for an answer.

It's passive, and needs power injected into it.

Based on the excellent information in the original poster's review, I purchased the Cat5RX and TX. I completed the installation last weekend and am very pleased with the video and audio quality. I have my pair running through 100ft of Cat5e cable and it looks no different than when the source is connected directly to the TV.

However, I am having an issue related to the IR system I have connected to the devices. Whenever I use a remote, the component video on my LCD TV goes blank for a second and then comes back on. For example, when I use the TV remote to change the volume on the TV, the IR receiver picks up the IR, transmits it to the remote end. When this happens, the component video signal appears to drop or go out of sync such that the TV thinks the signal is gone so it never respond to the volume change.

The IR setup I am using is a Xantech Xtra Link 2 that I had purchased before I was aware of the Cat5RX/TX. This system is designed to inject the IR signal onto a RG6 cable, but I have made some slight modifications to it to work with the Cat5RX. I added a connector to the IR receiver cable to power the receiver and am using the provided connector to only pass the IR signal and ground into the Cat5RX. The IR setup works and I can successfully control a Tivo and HD Cable box on the remote end, but the blanking video is an issue.

The manufacturer does not provide any information regarding the IR connections with the devices or on their web site. I'm wondering if anyone can provide a little more detail on how they have been successfully able to get an IR system working through these devices. I have tried to email the manufacturer for information, but have not received a response. I will try to call there tomorrow, but thought I would also try to ask here since the forum has been so helpful so far. Thanks in advance for any reply.

SO with this you would only be able to use One source? Or use a reciever or a switcher for multiple sources but then you would be deprived of using the same source in different room correct? Ie. If you had a DVD changer, and you were using it in room 1, you couldnt use it in room 2 viewing a different dvd? so you would be limited as opposed to a distribution matrix? I do understand this is price effective.

Thanks

SO with this you would only be able to use One source? Or use a reciever or a switcher for multiple sources but then you would be deprived of using the same source in different room correct? Ie. If you had a DVD changer, and you were using it in room 1, you couldnt use it in room 2 viewing a different dvd? so you would be limited as opposed to a distribution matrix? I do understand this is price effective.

Thanks

These can be used with a matrix switch for whole house audio/video distribution. What these really buy you is the ability to distribute that audio and video over Cat5 vs running a gaggle of wires to do the same thing.

If you purchased a set of these for each A/V zone and assuming your using a matrix switch of some sort, you would still be able to watch the same source in multiple places at once.

The comment about the limitations of a DVD changer is inherent to the DVD changer and not the A/V -> Cat5 converter.

The CAT5RX/TX is really designed to make wiring simpler and easier. Other than saving you on time, materials and ease of use, I don't believe they have any additional value.

These can be used with a matrix switch for whole house audio/video distribution. What these really buy you is the ability to distribute that audio and video over Cat5 vs running a gaggle of wires to do the same thing.

If you purchased a set of these for each A/V zone and assuming your using a matrix switch of some sort, you would still be able to watch the same source in multiple places at once.

The comment about the limitations of a DVD changer is inherent to the DVD changer and not the A/V -> Cat5 converter.

The CAT5RX/TX is really designed to make wiring simpler and easier. Other than saving you on time, materials and ease of use, I don't believe they have any additional value.

Thanks for the reply, so this is nice. When this is such a viable option, what are the advantages of A/V distrubtion thru a Matrix (Autopatch, Neothings etc.) with RG6 over this?

Also Ive tried reading over and over again about the IR setup with a Matrix Switcher ( Audio Authority), how would that work?

Would a Touchpanel solution like the Fujitsu 3400 or other expensives work with this route?

thanks

Thanks for the reply, so this is nice. When this is such a viable option, what are the advantages of A/V distrubtion thru a Matrix (Autopatch, Neothings etc.) with RG6 over this?


Ease of installation and having Cat5 available for future use are really the only reasons I can think of for using this over RG6. You could potentially use the same wiring for HDMI distribution, etc. by simply changing the hardware at either end.

As to the IR bit, I honestly don't know. Maybe someone else can chime in with pertinent info.

Ease of installation and having Cat5 available for future use are really the only reasons I can think of for using this over RG6. You could potentially use the same wiring for HDMI distribution, etc. by simply changing the hardware at either end.

As to the IR bit, I honestly don't know. Maybe someone else can chime in with pertinent info.

I was asking about the advantages of RG6 over Cat5 but from what Im reading there isnt much? And Thanks for letting me know about the IR, I will try to search more.

Ease of installation and having Cat5 available for future use are really the only reasons I can think of for using this over RG6. You could potentially use the same wiring for HDMI distribution, etc. by simply changing the hardware at either end.

As to the IR bit, I honestly don't know. Maybe someone else can chime in with pertinent info.

Another advantage to splitting the HDTV signal in this manner is you save a lot of money in cable box charges:

I am using an analagous system, which is the CE LABS AV501HD HDTV Distribution Amplifier (1-Input 5-Output) to distribute component video signals from a single Scientific Atlanta 8300HD PVR to multiple displays in different rooms. When I move into my new home shortly I will be using the CAT5RX/TX's as I have multiple runs of Cat5e strung from my living room (where my a/v equipment will be stored) to multiple rooms where there will be displays. I also have IR extenders on each run so that I can control the PVR from anywhere in the house.

By distributing the signal in this way I have the big cost advantage of being able to rent or buy a single source box, such as the SA 8300HD PVR and use it to serve up HDTV signals in any room (or a few sources boxes such as a satellite dish receiver). In this example it saves me the cost of buy multiple PVR's for each room. Also, even if money were no object and I didn't mind having multiple PVR's it allows me to not have to run to each PVR to record each program so that I can watch the program on any TV later (and, also, if I don't do that, I don't have to remember which PVR I recorded a program on). I just do all of my programming from the single PVR and watch it on any TV I please. If you use coax, you cannot, as far as I know, distribute HDTV signals without splitting the native coax carrying the HDTV signal fand putting a cable box at the end of each run which is then connected to the TV. For one, the coax signals coming out of the SA 8300HD PVR is dumbed down to SDTV and then there are other issues. (I know SA has a multiple room set-up now, but my cable provider here in Toronto (Rogers) does not offer it and it does not allow you to pause live TV)

If you live in a house where there are kids (or a wife) who want to record or pause something else on another TV while you watch the PVR, you would have to string coax to that room and then add a PVR there and connect it to the TV. Or, make them suffer and not be able to record or pause live TV and just split the coax signal coming out of the SA 8300HD PVR. This would allow them to watch any channel in SDTV and would cost you any more except the stringing of the coax.

For DVD's I don't bother trying to split the signal. They are so inexpensive I can afford to have one in each room if I want. But, of course, if I had an expensive video processor then I would distribute the DVD signal as I don't want to buy multiple copies of those.

If you use coax, you cannot, as far as I know, distribute HDTV signals without splitting the native coax carrying the HDTV signal fand putting a cable box at the end of each run which is then connected to the TV.

Sure you can. You just need three RG6's to carry the component signal. In comparison to your example instead of the cat5 baluns and two cat5's to each room you would need 5 RG6s (three for video, two for analog audio or one for digital audio) and a simple component splitter/amplifier. You can buy mini-RG6 in 5 cable bundles just for this purpose. So, it comes down to whether you feel at ease pulling 2 cat5e's or one bundle of mini-RG6, and whether you want to use the additional hardware (cat5 baluns). You still need a component splitter/amplifier regardless whether you use it with the individual balun pairs or you use an integrated solution. If I had the option (new construction, walls down) I would go the mini-RG6 route as you are keeping the signal in its native format. Anytime you convert the signal there are losses. Whether you can perceive them or not is a different story and may not matter.

Sure you can. You just need three RG6's to carry the component signal. In comparison to your example instead of the cat5 baluns and two cat5's to each room you would need 5 RG6s (three for video, two for analog audio or one for digital audio) and a simple component splitter/amplifier. You can buy mini-RG6 in 5 cable bundles just for this purpose. So, it comes down to whether you feel at ease pulling 2 cat5e's or one bundle of mini-RG6, and whether you want to use the additional hardware (cat5 baluns). You still need a component splitter/amplifier regardless whether you use it with the individual balun pairs or you use an integrated solution. If I had the option (new construction, walls down) I would go the mini-RG6 route as you are keeping the signal in its native format. Anytime you convert the signal there are losses. Whether you can perceive them or not is a different story and may not matter.

Sorry, you misunderstood what I am saying. Of course, coax cable itself is capable of carrying an HDTV signal (3 for video, 2 for audio). I actually make my own component video cables using Belden 1694A cable and and Canare RCA plugs and and am splitting and distributing an HDTV signal this way right now.

The problem is that your HDTV signal comes into your house through RG6 coax. This RG6 coax signal needs to be processed in order to provide an HDTV signal that can be used by a TV. This is done by the cable box (like the SA 8300HD PVR I have). Sure you can run 5 RG6's to each room, but you have to run the RG6 signal coming into your house first through a cable box, then a splitter then run 5 component cables (made of RG6) to each room. This is what I am doing with my AV901COMP from cable-electronics. Or you have to, as I said "[split] the native coax carrying the HDTV signal fand [put] a cable box at the end of each run which is then connected to the TV."

The problem is that your HDTV signal comes into your house through RG6 coax. This RG6 coax signal needs to be processed in order to provide an HDTV signal that can be used by a TV. This is done by the cable box (like the SA 8300HD PVR I have). Sure you can run 5 RG6's to each room, but you have to run the RG6 signal coming into your house first through a cable box, then a splitter then run 5 component cables (made of RG6) to each room. This is what I am doing with my AV901COMP from cable-electronics. Or you have to, as I said "[split] the native coax carrying the HDTV signal fand [put] a cable box at the end of each run which is then connected to the TV."

Right...In both scenarios you need a single RG6 to your demarkation for the cable, and you need a HDTV cable tuner box. What I was referring to is that you aren't limited to running 2 Cat5e's to every room and using baluns to distribute the signal from there. In your scenario you are converting the analog component signal to a signal that must traverse an unshielded cat5 cable. The twisted pair offers no noise immunity as you aren't sending packetized info like on a TCP/IP network. You are also converting/deconverting the signal which will always result in some loss.

My arguement is that if it is new construction and you have the choice, the 5RG6 is a better solution. You are keeping the video in its original format (analog component) and you are sending it down the proper cable (75Ohm shielded coax). You also don't need baluns. In both scenarios you need a switch/amplifer, whether it is one that splits analog component (common) or one that splits it and then provides the baluns.

Right...In both scenarios you need a single RG6 to your demarkation for the cable, and you need a HDTV cable tuner box. What I was referring to is that you aren't limited to running 2 Cat5e's to every room and using baluns to distribute the signal from there. In your scenario you are converting the analog component signal to a signal that must traverse an unshielded cat5 cable. The twisted pair offers no noise immunity as you aren't sending packetized info like on a TCP/IP network. You are also converting/deconverting the signal which will always result in some loss.

My arguement is that if it is new construction and you have the choice, the 5RG6 is a better solution. You are keeping the video in its original format (analog component) and you are sending it down the proper cable (75Ohm shielded coax). You also don't need baluns. In both scenarios you need a switch/amplifer, whether it is one that splits analog component (common) or one that splits it and then provides the baluns.

No argument either cable can be used. My point was that you can't split the single RG6 cable and run it to each room without a cable box at the termination point in each room, which results in buying or renting such a box for each room (very expensive, but gives you the ability to watch different shows in different rooms).

I am forced to go with cat5e to split my hdtv signal since that's all I have going to the second floor. I am going to use the AV501HD to split the component video out of the SA8300HD PVR on the first floor, but cat5e to get it to the second.

But I do wonder about what you said about signal degradation. Is it really that noticeable? I thought that twisted pair was not affected by noise even if the info wasn't being sent in packets. It seems that the people on here are quite happy with the quality of the Cat5rx/tx.

But you are right. The purest method, with the least degradation would be 5 RG6's, plus a wire to each room for the IR receiver. No need to buy those expensive baluns for each end, and, for me, I can just make the cables with the highest grade cable and rca plugs that money can buy (rather than pay ridiculous prices for those custom made cables that use the exact same RCA plugs and cable that I do).

My only fear, though, is that eventually cable boxes will not have component video outputs. Already, the component video outputs on Blu-Ray and HD-DVD players only output 1080i not 1080p, even though component video is more than capable of carrying a 1080p signal. Maybe other source devices will follow and we'll be forced to attempt to run HDMI through the house (which is VERY expensive), or buy mutiple source devices.

My only fear, though, is that eventually cable boxes will not have component video outputs. Already, the component video outputs on Blu-Ray and HD-DVD players only output 1080i not 1080p, even though component video is more than capable of carrying a 1080p signal. Maybe other source devices will follow and we'll be forced to attempt to run HDMI through the house (which is VERY expensive), or buy mutiple source devices.

That's the 800 lb gorilla right now....What will happen with DRM and the HDCP flag. Forget about distributing HDMI. 19 conductors, limited distance and handshaking between source and display almost certainly precludes it from being a distributed friendly medium anytime soon if ever. My guess is that there will yet be another digital standard that evolves that will hopefully utilize the cat5e backbone everyone has...It won't be HDMI.

If it were my new home I would run a what Fletch suggested in another thread...A 6 RG6 bundle + 2 Cat5e to every video location. That will carry current analog component distribution, analog audio and/or digital audio, plus a composite RF feed for surveillance or other low grade modulated channels. The two Cat5e's will hopefully pickup new technology down the road.

BTW, I didn't quote it, but you had a question about the noise immunity issue....I think there's another thread on the first page where a user is experiencing noise on a set of video baluns. I did see where I perhaps misspoke and the twisted pair may offer noise immunity if the baluns convert the signal to a balanced 100 ohm signal. That's good to know.

Ordered my CAT5 RX/TX setup. :)

Thanks for the review.

I see that 2 cat-5 cables are needed for these. Is that a requirement for any configuration? For instance, I just want to run component video and digital audio. Can this be done with just one cat-5 cable or are both always needed? Does anyone have a link to the installation instructions and/or the pinout?


You CAN do this using just one cable.

Received my CAT5RX/TX from Worthington, great service.

You CAN do this using just one cable.

Received my CAT5RX/TX from Worthington, great service.

But the pictures of the unit on cable-electronics.com clearly show 2 cat5 cables are required. What feature(s) do you lose if you use only one cable? Also, if you use only one cable do you plus it into the A or B port?

But the pictures of the unit on cable-electronics.com clearly show 2 cat5 cables are required. What feature(s) do you lose if you use only one cable? Also, if you use only one cable do you plus it into the A or B port?

Sent you a personal message with more details.

Basically, your using one CAT5 cable from the RX to the TX, but your splitting it on both ends into two RJ45 connectors. So, your plugging into both A & B still, just using one cable.

Sent you a personal message with more details.

Basically, your using one CAT5 cable from the RX to the TX, but your splitting it on both ends into two RJ45 connectors. So, your plugging into both A & B still, just using one cable.

I've done just that with my setup. Works great.

Sorry for being a total newb here but you gotta start somewhere. My question is and I think I know the answer is that the 9870 system will allow you to have all your components in one location of the house and you are able to run cat5 cable to the plates anywhere in the house and control those pieces from that room even though its elsewhere? Say I can have one dvd player running to two different tvs? Sharing equipment etc???

Can you please post the details of using one cable for Component + Digital Audio over one run of Cat5.

I'm actually interested in using the system to do composite video + analog audio + IR over one cable. I suppose I could use the component Y for composite video and the Pb and Pr for Left and Right analog and then would need only the "A" cable.

Magnus

PINS_____CABLE"A"________CABLE"B"________WIRE COLOR (568A)
1...............Video PR+...............Audio Left+.............Green/White
2...............Video PR-................Audio Left-..............Green
3...............Video PB+...............Audio Right+...........Orange/White
4...............Video Y+.................IR Ring....................Blue
5...............Video Y-..................Ground....................Blue/White
6...............Video PB-................Audio Right-............Orange
7...............IR Sleeve................Digital Audio+..........Brown/White
8...............IR Tip......................Digital Audio-...........Brown

You can use one cable for digital audio and component video.

You would still need to breakout two cables from the receiver to the TV though, but only one cable from the unit/unit. Your basically splitting the CAT5 cable at both ends and using a few of the wires to another plug. Kind of rude/crude, but it'll work.

You split out the last pair (pins 7 & 8 [brown & brown white]) of CableA and connect them to a second RJ45 connector (once again in positions 7 & 8). This second RJ45 connector would need to be plugged into the cable B RJ45 input jack on both the RX and TX ends of system. Hope this makes sense.

Also, you can use a CAT5 cable of either 568A or 568B standards, just make sure to keep it the same and use a straight-thru cable, not a crossover.

R_Willis,

Thanks for the explanation! I'm building a new home at the moment and have been contemplating this solution for component distribution.

What, if anything, are you doing for IR distribution? That's the last piece to my puzzle right now.

Thanks,

Tommy

R_Willis - thanks - this was exactly the information I needed.

Magnus

I've bought and installed the CE Labs units and find that anytime there is a strong "white' element to the picture the units loose the picture for a couple of seconds. I though perhaps the two units were too close to each other as they were only 50 feet apart (media (bedroom was right above the sending media room) and overpowering the system. So, I added 100 feet of Cat 5 in a spool at the receiving end, but no affect.

I sent back the first set and they sent me another but same issue.

Anyone else seeing these symptoms? Any solutions?

--Steve

Excellent review and info. Thanks Ix.

At $90 for each end, this is very expensive. How about a much cheaper alternative; CCTV type cat5 baluns for example?
Or are they too bandwidth restrictive?

I've bought and installed the CE Labs units and find that anytime there is a strong "white' element to the picture the units loose the picture for a couple of seconds.

Anyone else seeing these symptoms? Any solutions?


No problems here as of yet. I went to a couple of the directv stations that don't have channels and just play a graphic with a lot of white and directv on the page. Didn't affect it at all.

I'd suggest re-crimping all your RJ45s just in case.

Just a clarification of your comment My point was that you can't split the single RG6 cable and run it to each room without a cable box at the termination point in each room, which results in buying or renting such a box for each room (very expensive, but gives you the ability to watch different shows in different rooms).

Yes, you can and I am doing this in my house. There are really two options that allow you to do this (at least for cable tv) in either free or cheap mode: Free is if your tv's in each room are QAM-tuner equipped, and cheap is cable card (~1.75/month per card from my cable service), again dependent upon whether your tv's are cc-equipped. Obviously, you lose two way communication either way, so no ppv or guide, you lose premium channels with only QAM tuner, and cablecard slots are not prevalent on many tv's now (which drives me nuts, as I have one tv so equipped and it is great for the manner I use it).

I'm kinda overkill on my config, as I've got distributed a/v over cat5 planned (including my SA 8300HD), plus 2 runs of coax to each tv location--one for cable distribution and one for OTA antenna distribution (in case cable goes bellyup during "24"--my "disaster recovery plan"). Certain of the tv's will have cablecard so that I can get all the premiums I subscribe to, while others (kids/guest room) will only have basic QAM tuner access. But this way, if I'm watching a recording of "24" on the dvr over cat5 in the family room and the wife wants to watch something live, she can goto the bedroom with a tv with QAM or cablecard and have at it.

I realize the thread isn't really focused on this part, but I wanted to clarify that part of your statement. We now return you to the CE Labs review. . . :)

Nice job and thanks for sharing.

Just a clarification of your comment

Yes, you can and I am doing this in my house. There are really two options that allow you to do this (at least for cable tv) in either free or cheap mode: Free is if your tv's in each room are QAM-tuner equipped, and cheap is cable card (~1.75/month per card from my cable service), again dependent upon whether your tv's are cc-equipped. Obviously, you lose two way communication either way, so no ppv or guide, you lose premium channels with only QAM tuner, and cablecard slots are not prevalent on many tv's now (which drives me nuts, as I have one tv so equipped and it is great for the manner I use it).

I'm kinda overkill on my config, as I've got distributed a/v over cat5 planned (including my SA 8300HD), plus 2 runs of coax to each tv location--one for cable distribution and one for OTA antenna distribution (in case cable goes bellyup during "24"--my "disaster recovery plan"). Certain of the tv's will have cablecard so that I can get all the premiums I subscribe to, while others (kids/guest room) will only have basic QAM tuner access. But this way, if I'm watching a recording of "24" on the dvr over cat5 in the family room and the wife wants to watch something live, she can goto the bedroom with a tv with QAM or cablecard and have at it.

I realize the thread isn't really focused on this part, but I wanted to clarify that part of your statement. We now return you to the CE Labs review. . . :)

Well there are quite a few if's in your statement. Just to clarify, what I was actually talking about was splitting the HDTV signal that comes into your home from the cable company, not setting up an antenna system, so my statement is correct. Also, as you say, since cablecards are not prevalent on many TV's and are disappearing in new models, that is disappearing as an option.

What I am doing is operating one 8300HD PVR from multiple rooms through the use of a matrix switcher, component/cat-5 video baluns and cat-5e wiring to control the PVR from any room. That allows me to record only one one PVR from anywhere and watch an SDTV or HDTV program from any display. If I want to watch 2 different shows in 2 different rooms then I can always add a 2nd PVR at the switcher location and so on.

I am using an analagous system, which is the CE LABS AV501HD HDTV Distribution Amplifier (1-Input 5-Output) to distribute component video signals from a single Scientific Atlanta 8300HD PVR to multiple displays in different rooms. When I move into my new home shortly I will be using the CAT5RX/TX's as I have multiple runs of Cat5e strung from my living room (where my a/v equipment will be stored) to multiple rooms where there will be displays. I also have IR extenders on each run so that I can control the PVR from anywhere in the house.

I have a similar system: Scientific Atlanta 8300HD, Video-Storm 4x2 video matrix, CE LABS CAT5TX/RX, and a 400 Disc Sony DVD Changer. I would like to add another 8300HD DVR to my video matrix, but I don't know how to solve the IR problem. I use a Xantech IR system and have IR receivers in each room all connecting to a Xantech connecting block. How can I keep the 8300HD's from getting confused about which source the IR signal was intended to be sent to. In other words, if I press pause on my DVR remote, both DVR's will pause which is not what I want. I know that Tivo's have the ability to change their IR codes with a switch on the remote, but how can you accomplish this same thing with the 8300HD DVR's? I know this is a bit off topic, but just saw some similarities in our systems.

I just purchased the CAT5TX/RX combo for my home, along with the Xantech 490-KIT IR system, and am having a few IR troubles. Wondering if one of you could help me.

Media room is where the CAT5TX goes, and I'd like to control the HD-DVR that's located in that room from the Family Room downstairs where the CAT5RX is.

In the family room, I plugged the IR Receiver into the CAT5RX
In the media room, I plugged a 3.5mm stereo extender from the CAT5TX to the IR distribution block, and then an IR emitter from the distribution block to the front of the HD DVR.

No signal :(

When I do things without the CAT5TX/RX, the IR system works fine (the only other difference being that I don't need the 3.5mm stereo extender). I have a feeling that it's because I'm plugging a 3.5mm stereo into the CAT5TX plug that was meant for 3.5 mono, but I don't know what to do, since I need 3.5 stereo to come into the Xantech block.

Any suggestions?

Never mind...

I was using the "1 CAT5" breakout like R_Willis was talking about, without understanding that that will only feed the video and digital audio. Four extra wires are still needed for IR :(

Looks like it's time for an RF remote.

I am setting up the CAT5RX/TX setup from my family room to my living room. I will be using 2 CAT5E cables so that I can use the IR capability. I was wondering what type of "patch" cord is needed from the P1205 IR hub to the CAT5TX? Is it a 3.5mm stereo or mono patch cord ??

Darryl

According to Matt at CE Labs when I spoke to him, you need a stereo plug to go from the "emitter out" of the CAT5TX (in your family room) to the IR distribution block, and then of course some emitters (usually mono) to go from the distribution block to the CE components.

On the CAT5RX side (in your living room), you would just put the IR receiver.

Personally, I'm unsure why they even have 3 emitter jacks if you need to insert power from the hub anyway. I asked him why they didn't do that (insert power from the CAT5TX) and he said that that would have involved building a transformer into the system and would have increased both the size and the price to an unacceptable level.

After I connect the IR Hub to the CAT5TX, using a 3.5mm stereo plug, are the three emitters sockets "active" on the CAT5TX?

From what I understand, they are always "active", but do not have enough power to actually emit on their own. So you want to use the emitter ports from the 1205. You may want to confirm with Matt though. He can be reached at 469-429-9200, ask for him.

Receivers that feed up to two displays, and offer "loop" ports to either directly hook up a third local display device or daisy chain additional receivers to drive even more remote displays.



Just trying to confirm that the CAT5TX will output directly to a nearby display from the "loop" outputs.

I just ordered one TX and one RX to allow me to run HD from a Dish 622 DVR to another room. I would prefer to place the DVR in my basement with older ED Panny plasma and then use the Cat5 connections to output via component to a newer HD plasma upstairs. The older basement display only has component inputs while the new upstairs display has HDMI and component inputs. The DVR will output HDMI and component concurrently but only one output available for each.

Thus, either I locate the DVR upstairs (direct HDMI connection to nearby new plasma and cat5 component connection to basement plasma) or, preferably, downstairs (output via component to CAT5TX with cat5 cabling delivering component to upstairs plasma and CAT5TX loop ports outputting component to the nearby plasma via component cables).

i.e. Does the TX split the component signal and, thus, allow two displays to be connected via component when using only one TX transmitter and one RX receiver?

slowmo: they way you worded it, kind of lost me... but if this is what your asking...

I have a DirectH20 box in my basement.
I have the CAT5TX in my basement home theater rack.
I have a CAT5RX in my master bathroom.

The CAT5TX has component video cables coming from the directv h20 box into it.
The projector in my basement theater is feed from the loop output of the CAT5TX in the basement.
The LCD TV in my master bathroom is feed from the CAT5e component output on the CAT5RX which is on the back of the LCD.

Hopefully this helps you out.

That helps. I was trying to confirm that you can connect the nearby display with the loop output exactly as you have done with your projector in the basement.

Thanks; this has been a very helpful thread.

Hi guys, I just installed a Cat5tx in my basement and 2 cat5rx in my 1st floor TV and 2nd floor TV. Here is the config.

In the basement: Comcast Motorolo cable box hooked up to the cat5tx. My 1st TV is in the 1st floor. Its a sony CRT HDTV. My 2nd TV is in the 2nd floor. Its a Olivia LCD.
After I hooked up everything, My Sony CRT gets a flickering noise, its not loud but it is audible.
My 2nd floor TV gets a constand Hummm...
I tried swapping the cables, to check if there was an issue with a particular cat5e run, but even I swap the cables with all combinations, I keep getting the hum and the flickering sound..
For the IR, I`m using the Xantech Dinky link, it works great.
Can anyone tell me or suggest me how to get rid of this noise..
appreciate all your help..

thanks
Sanjay

Have you tried turning the knob on the back of the receiver that helps compensate for length of the CAT5e run, up or down?

Sounds like you may have a ground loop. There is a lot of information on ground loops and different solutions out there. Do a search and see if any of the symptoms and tests match your situation.

Thank you guys, its my fault, I had the CAT5e cable clipped wrong at each ends. I got a straight cat5e 568A cable and hooked it up. It works great both Video and Audio. But now I'm having the IR problem. I have the Xantech IR CB60 and the dinky link. Everytime I press a button on my remote, one of the red light on the remote blinks, but nothing happens. When I go very close to the dinky link receiver(almost touching the receiver with the remote) and with some 10 pushes the remote works once. Has anybody had this problem. Please suggest me what to do?

thanks
Sanjay

I've got both a Xantech tabletop receiver and a Hot Link Pro receiver connected to my Xantech connecting block via the cat 5 Rx/Tx units with no issues. I would make sure that A) your cat 5 cables are correct and B) that you are using stereo 3.5mm plugs (not mono plugs....the stereo plug has two bands, the mono plug, one band)

Just a FYI, I have 2 cat5Es running from the source cat5tx to Cat5Rx. Its just frustrating me, how come only the IR doesnt work, but the IR receivers blink red light everytime I press a button on my remote. Every thing else works, Digital Audio, Analog Audio, and video works just great.
I'm using the comcast Motorola cable box as my source. This is connected to the cat5tx.

Also make sure your emitter is stuck over the IR area of your motorolla box. Sometimes its hard to tell where to stick them.

Robert, I'm using the stereo cable (double band) from the CAT5TX to the IR block CB60. I checked all the connections.
Just for verification I swapped the cables too. Everything works. Digital Audio, Analog Audio, and video except for the IR. :( It blinks everytime I press the remote.

I'd keep playing with your emitter location in reference to the cable box's IR pick-up. I'm using the Channel Vision products without any problem. Still sounds like your emitter is not getting the signal to your cable box.

I think there is a problem with the IR. I tried connecting the IR emitter to the cablebox seperately (tried with DVD player too, for which I knew for sure the IR reception area) and then connected the IR receiver from the IR block. Put the IR reciever to the next room and operated the remote. Nothing worked. So looks like there is no power going to the IR block from the 12VDC power cable. I'm returning the whole IR kit and will be getting the new Dinkylink kit. Hopefully this should help. I'll keep you all posted.

thanks for ur help guys.
Sanjay

This is a good thread. I am on a whole house Video/Audio project.

1. Basement Home Theatre with
Sony PS3 , XBOX360, DirectTV box, Sony 400DVD changer, Denon 5805CI receiver and Optoma 1080p Ceiling mounted projector. All of this in a Rack that will supply Video/Audio for 6 Zones.

2. Basement Music Room with VocoPro Karoake DualDeck DVD Player, Roland VS2480 Diigtal Recorder hooked to various Guitars, Keyboard Synths and VDrums, Ipod Deck another DirectTV box, another Optoma 720p Ceiling Mounting projector for Karoake .

3. Basement Bedroom with 46" Wall mounted Plasma.

4. 1st Floor Family room with 720p Pioneer Elite 64" Display, another DirectTV box another Denon 5600 Receiver, DVD Player

5. 2nd Floor Master with Pioneer Plasma, another DirectTV box.
6. Bedroom 2 with TV
7. Bedroom 3 with TV.

I have purchased from SmartHome 500' of bundled 2RG6, 2Cat5e, 2Optical
This will go to each zone from the Basement Rack.
Additionally, I want to take 14/4 (For Audio only Zones) and Component to each Zone MiniRG6 bundle with RGBHV cable.
Question is why is there such a price difference for this bundle.

Blue Jean Cable has 500' (Single run Unbundled) for $1434

Ebay has Atlona 500' Triple RG6 (RGB Bundle) for $210.00

Mountsandmore has 500' Liberty Cable RGB5C-20-CMR - 5 for $2875.00

They all claim similiar bandwidth. What gives?

Is this product from CELabs still considered a decent solution for amplified video distribution over CAT5? I'm asking because the original post was written two years ago.
Thanks for taking the time to write this great review. really helpful!

I replied in PM but just to update the thread:

Two years later and my original setup still works just fine. I use it every single day, in fact - we watch most of our tv (HD included) downstairs on our two LCD's and the Cat5e is what connects them.

I only ever had the one problem with one of the receivers (it lost the signal for blue) and they fixed it and had it back to me within a week. If you're looking for HD and SD component video and audio over Cat5e this is still the best solution around.

The only suggestion I would make is that A)They provide a way to transcode optical, instead of Coaxial, for digital connections - it's next to impossible to find an AV receiver that offers Coaxial digital out - most just offer in, and optical out. You can buy transcoders to get around this, and I have, but it's an extra expense and works clunkily, to say the least.

B) Make the same product only HDMI over Cat5e/6 instead of component. By same I mean an Amp that can take one input (and be daisy chained for more, as with the current product) and sent it to two receivers, including the built in IR transmitter which imho is one of the best features. And of course keep it reasonably priced :) All current HDMI/Cat5e/6 transceivers are one to one, expensive as all get out, and don't include IR relaying.

According to Matt at CE Labs when I spoke to him, you need a stereo plug to go from the "emitter out" of the CAT5TX (in your family room) to the IR distribution block, and then of course some emitters (usually mono) to go from the distribution block to the CE components.

On the CAT5RX side (in your living room), you would just put the IR receiver.

Personally, I'm unsure why they even have 3 emitter jacks if you need to insert power from the hub anyway. I asked him why they didn't do that (insert power from the CAT5TX) and he said that that would have involved building a transformer into the system and would have increased both the size and the price to an unacceptable level.

I am just installing this for a friend and both the cat5rx/tx work great except for IR. I have the Xantech 29815D shelf top IR receiver and 789-44 connecting block (both pictured below). I do not know whether I need to inject power into both the emitter and the receiver or one or the other and don't know how to do it. (Ce-labs tech support are all out for lunch I have been told! Who lets their tech support all go out for lunch at the same time? Or maybe there is only one).

To inject power on the IR emitter side the post above says to use a stereo plug (and wire I assume which I guess I would get from Radio Shack). So I connect the male plug to one of the female ports on the Cat5tx, but how do I connect the other end of the wire to the connecting block? There doesn't seem to be a port to connect it or do I strip the wire and somehow connect the individual wires that might be inside to the +12 VDC, GND, STATUS and IR IN connectors? But that doesn't seem right. Or do I connect the plug at the other end to one of the for EMITTER ports and then an emitter/blaster cable to one of the other of the four ports and attach the other sticky end onto my SA 8300HD PVR?

And then for the IR Receiver side, how do I inject power into it? If I plug it into the cat5rx that won't work as the port on the cat5rx is passive. Or does the fact I have power on the emitter on the cat5tx take care of the power requirements of the IR Receiver on the cat5rx end? Or do I not use the connecting block on the cat5tx side and use it on he cat5rx side? But then how do I power the IR receiver on the cat5rx end? If I plug the IR receiver into the IR RCVR port on the 789-44 connecting block then how do I connect that connecting block to the IR REMOTE port on the cat5rx? Would I use one of the IR EMITTER ports and plug a stereo cable in from there to the IR REMOTE port on the cat5rx and that would then send the IR receiver command to the cat5tx and out through the emitter ports on it?

Any help would be appreciated. This is so confusing!

For IR repeating, think of the CAT5RX as an "emitter extension cord". The emitter plugs in on the CAT5TX side, so you need to feed the RX side with an output-to-emitter IR signal.

So yes, you need to provide power to your 789-44, most easily through the 12V wall wart plug. That's what will power your IR receiver, and the connecting block to produce the emitter outputs.

It is a bit confusing, but CE Labs means it when they say it's a "passive IR solution". You provide the emitter signal, and they'll pass it to an emitter at the far end...

I've got exactly this setup working, so you're just a 12VDC transformer away from it working! :D

Jeff

Thanks. Maybe I did not explain this properly. I do have the 12VDC power supply and realize that it has to be plugged into the connecting block. The problem is what do I connect this connecting block to and how? It seems to me that it is one of two ways but I am not quite sure how:

1. Do I use the connecting block at the Cat5tx transmitter unit, but connect the red plug on the Xantech IR receiver into the Cat5rx receiver unit IR REMOTE port? If so, I assume that I plug in the emitter/blaster to one of the EMITTERS ports on the connecting block (with the connecting block plugged into the power supply), but then how do I connect the connecting block to the cat5tx transmitter unit so that the signal received by the IR receiver at the Cat5rx end (where the IR receiver is plugged in) gets transmitted through to the Cat5tx transmitter unit and out through the emitter/blaster?

Or

2. Do I use the connecting block at the Cat5rx receiver unit and connect the red plug on the Xantech IR receiver into the IR RCVR port on the connecting block (with the connecting block plugged in to the power supply). If so, then how do I connect the connecting block to the IR remote port on the Cat5rx receiver unit? In this configuration I assume I just connect the emitter/blaster to one of the 3 IR EMITTER ports on the Cat5tx transmitter unit.

Thanks.

I finally got through to Ce-Labs and had the question answered. So, for the benefit of anyone else who might have the same unanswered questions as me here is the answer:

First of all they advised to power the IR emitter at the Cat5tx unit (see below) and not to inject any power at the IR Receiver end and therefore to simply plug the IR receiver's 3.5mm jack into the IR RCVR port on the Cat5rx receiver unit. Apparently if the IR emitter is powered then the IR receiver does not need to be powered.

Then you need to get a jumper cable with a male stereo 3.5mm jack on each end (Radio Shack has them and I've included a picture below - you'll notice two coloured rings around the metal connector as opposed to one that is on mono jacks) and plug one end of it into one of the 3 IR EMITTER jacks on the Cat5tx unit and the other end of it into the IR RCVR port on the connecting block. Then you plug in the male plug at the end of the IR emitter cable into one of the emitter ports on the connecting block (and plug other IR emitter cables in if you have more than one). Then you plug in the power supply into the connecting block. This powers the IR emitter and thus allow signals that are received by the IR receiver when you point the remote at it to be received by the Cat5tx unit and sent through the jumper cable to the connecting block and then through the IR emitter cable to the source device that you want to control.

I also asked Ce-Labs why they didn't make the emitter and receiver ports on the Cat5tx/rx units powered and they said because it would have been very difficult because ir emitters and ir receivers have varying voltage requirements (but of course they could have included a means of changing the voltage but then I guess that would have added even more cost).

Oh, and btw, for anyone thinking of buying these they work great! Sure it's component video not HDMI but I've found the picture to be every bit as good. Also, their HDMI versions do not carry the IR signal as the 2 catx cables that you need to run between the transmitter and receiver units are entirely used for the HDMI signal so you have to run a separate wire for the IR signal.