In a bat cave, auto1 has a noticeably lower black level, and does not appear to be less "punchy" than auto2.

In a bat cave, auto1 has a noticeably lower black level, and does not appear to be less "punchy" than auto2.

I am also running my Pearl in a bat-cave, screen gain 1.3, near max throw, high bulb, about 800 hours.

Maybe it's just my particular set-up or pj, but I do not use Auto1 because the picture is too dim in dark scenes. Auto2 is brighter and punchier.

I finally stopped using the AutoIris altogether, since I prefer manual iris (set at 60). Manual iris gets rid of the brightness compression and the dynamic gamma (neither of which I've ever cared for), while maintaining blacks similar to those in Auto2. This is just a personal preference of mine.

I too prefer Auto 2 over Auto 1: Auto 1 does get a bit darker, in dark scenes, which I like BUT in a mixed scene (light and dark) the light areas don't have as much punch in Auto 1. Auto 2 is the best compromise in my space.

Quick demo: When watching a credits roll (black background, white text), it is easy to see how Auto 1 and Auto 2 differ: In Auto 1, the black background is a touch darker, but the letters aren't as crispy white. In Auto 2, the black background is a touch lighter, but the white letters really pop.

Or at least that is how my setup looks. Note that I'm NOT running it in a bat cave right now: There is no light entering the room, but the ceiling is white (ugh, it's temporary).

I am going to purchase the Sony Pearl. I am aware of the convergence and color uniform issues, but recently, there are reports on the bulb premature failure (500-900 hrs). It seems that the cause is the heat. I wonder if it is due to extended play (ex. video games, news, hockey etc that last more than 2 hrs) ?

If I use it mainly for movies (2hrs max), should I expect a normal rate of failure (2000 hrs) ? Will an extra fan next to the pearl help ?

Pearl's owners, please help me make the decision by replying with your light bulb experience. Thanks a million.

I sent my unit to the assistance centre this week to replace the lamp/bulb, broken just after 150 hrs. no "intensive" usage ar all

First lamp failure at ~500 hrs. Now have ~200 hrs on second lamp.

95% of usage was movie-length or less. Occasional 3-4 hour sporting event. Virtually no video-game usage. Rarely more then 1 strike a day. Occasionally two. High lamp and normal fan setting. Only rarely would it kick in to high fan mode.

On lamp #2, I've gone to low lamp setting, again with normal fan setting. We'll see how it fares.

I replaced my lamp (the first one) at about 950 hours after it suddenly got really dim. I had run it at a high setting with a normal fan setting. I typically turned on the projector twice a day for about 2 hours each time and did not use it for video games.

I was under the impression that how often the lamp is struck, is more of a factor in wear than how long it is on for.
For example, it would be more stressful to strike it twice a day and run it for 2 hours each time, than it would to strike it once and let it run for 6 hours straight.

But If the Pearl has a problem with airflow and cooling (due to its design) than you would likely be screwed either way.

I guess I will have to lower my expectation for the Pearl light bulb. I would be very happy with 1000 hrs. I will order the Pearl next week. Thanks every one for the information.

For example, it would be more stressful to strike it twice a day and run it for 2 hours each time, than it would to strike it once and let it run for 6 hours straight.

Based on what has been reported here at AVS about other projectors, and my own experience, you are correct.

The other thing to think about: It is FAR LESS stressful to only turn the lamp on after it has been 100% cooled down (can take a couple of hours), and it is FAR LESS stressful to only turn the lamp OFF after it has been at operating temperature for a while. (IE: If you are going to want to watch again in an hour or two, just the projector on, don't turn it off and then back on. And if accidentally turn on the projector, don't turn it off right away: Let it heat up completely [1/2 hour, for example] before turning it off.)

I guess I will have to lower my expectation for the Pearl light bulb. I would be very happy with 1000 hrs. I will order the Pearl next week. Thanks every one for the information.

Aiming for 2,000. I'll cross my fingers. Sure I'm not alone. The Pearl is really a great pj.

What is the warranty on the bulb?

what happened to the wmphelps (haven't checked in in awhile) calibration?

I am looking at the monoprice 25ft 26AWG HDMI cable for my future Pearl. Any comment for this choice ? I have been suggested to get Geffen which is a bit pricey, as well as bluejean cable. What brand of HDMI cables are you guys Pearl owners uses ? Any inputs are much appreciated. Thanks

I am looking at the monoprice 25ft 26AWG HDMI cable for my future Pearl. Any comment for this choice ? I have been suggested to get Geffen which is a bit pricey, as well as bluejean cable. What brand of HDMI cables are you guys Pearl owners uses ? Any inputs are much appreciated. ThanksIf you want to go all out, get the VizionWare active cable, it will send the best signals without losses. Bluejeans, at times has "B" cables on e-bay.

I use a 50' Monoprice and it works great.

I'm using two 20' blue jeans cables (one for HD DVD the other for a Bd player).
Both worked great and I've been very happy with the quality, price, and service.

what happened to the wmphelps (haven't checked in in awhile) calibration?

Looks like it never materialized. I was supposed to be first in line (I'm local and could bring it to him in person) after his test run on a unit he was analyzing. He confirmed a rough timeline in email with me, but trying to contact him since hasn't worked.

What I surmise from other comments / lack thereof: it doesn't appear he ever rolled out the service. Maybe the JVC has stolen the thunder :)

I use the monoprice 24 AWG at 25ft..... Have no problems what so ever... It's diffinitely one THICK cable.... If you order your system from Jason, he also gets deals on cables....

Due to the thickness of the 24 AWG (and thus the weight), it can cause stress on the HDMI connector. Has any one try 25ft 26 AWG HDMI cable yet ? The 26 AWG is also rated 1080p, HDMI 1.2a. Would it be a better choice ?
Thanks for all the inputs.

I use the monoprice 24 AWG at 25ft..... Have no problems what so ever... It's diffinitely one THICK cable.... If you order your system from Jason, he also gets deals on cables....

Anyone know what disadvantages there are with using maximum lens shifting on the Pearl? Is there a loss of light output, image sharpness, etc?

Probably a little of both, but my current setup forces me to use maximum lens shift (ceiling mount flush with a ceiling) and the impact is negligible. If you have a bat cave, and high end screen, and pristine sources, then you may want to figure out a way to use less shift -- but if you're not in that kind of situation, you should be okay. A quick look at your gallery suggests that if you need to, you could extend the pole on which the Pearl sits, if you are worried.

I'm actually in a different house now. The ceiling is higher and the room is no longer dedicated. Max lens shift is not necessary for me but brings the 2.35:1 down to eye level and eliminated the lower bar.

I say "go for it". The ill effects should be minor compared with having to look up too high to comfortably watch 2.35:1 material (and have a imperfect black bar visible on the screen).

Since I'm already at max lens shift down, I get rid of the lower black bar by raising the screen a bit. Less ideal.

Mine was supposed to be a 3 month temp setup, otherwise I might have put the projector lower.... of course, now it looks like it'll be a full year temp setup!

Plus if you mask you only heve to mask the top which is easier.

Yep, and I do mask. Anyone who hasn't tried it, really should. On occasion I am lazy and don't bother -- and always end up doing it half way through the movie and kick myself for not having done so from the start.

With a pull down setup like mine, a little velcro on the screen and a little felt, that's all it takes. It's not super classy, but it's only for when the lights are out (of course) and the evidence of the DIY nature of the solution is completely invisible in the room when not watching a movie.

Couldn't find the official owners thread so I will post here. :)

Got the Pearl and I need to shelf mount. I have been using my component rack that is located on the back wall in the middle of the room. But this takes up precious seating area. I am trying to come up with something to mount this higher on the wall. Not ceiling mount.

Any ideas for a wall mount? I thought about some TV wall mounts and while they can handle heavy monitors, their depth is limited. The Pearl is long!

I would be most grateful for any ideas, help etc...I can build a wall plate but it sounds like quite an undertaking.

Thanks in advance! :)

Threaded pipes from your hardware store, and a Chief mount on the projector end. These photos are of the work in progress. It's done now and is very sturdy (make sure you use a stud in the wall for the end!).

Threaded pipes from your hardware store, and a Chief mount on the projector end. These photos are of the work in progress. It's done now and is very sturdy (make sure you use a stud in the wall for the end!).

Woah. That's a very adventurous setup.:eek:

I have had a 35 foot monoprice 24 awg cable attached from the ceiliing to my Pearl for over a year now.
Never had any issues with the cable or the HDMI connector on the projector, so I wouldnt worry about it.
The Pearl is mount to the ceiling with a chief mount.

just dont flush your toilet with that pipe on your projector! haha

I have my Pearl mounted on top of my component rack. The set-up works great.

Due to the thickness of the 24 AWG (and thus the weight), it can cause stress on the HDMI connector. Has any one try 25ft 26 AWG HDMI cable yet ? The 26 AWG is also rated 1080p, HDMI 1.2a. Would it be a better choice ?
Thanks for all the inputs.

I used the 50ft 26 AWG cable from Monoprice with outstanding results. My projector locks onto my BD30 at 1080P/24 quickly w/ no sparklies.

BD30->Onkyo 905->Sony VW60

After some of what I have read I was worried about the cable as it is now built-into my HT. No problems! As for supporting the HDMI connector & heavy cable, I just cable-tied to the RGB cable...

Mark

thanks for the idea. I should have been more clear though. I won't be placing the Pearl upside down. It will be about 3.5 feet above our heads lol. :) I currently have it on my top component rack as well but I want to use that middle space on the back wall for seating.

That is some serious pipes; like something from a submarine. :D

thanks for the idea. I should have been more clear though. I won't be placing the Pearl upside down. It will be about 3.5 feet above our heads lol. :) I currently have it on my top component rack as well but I want to use that middle space on the back wall for seating.

That is some serious pipes; like something from a submarine. :D

I would just build a shelf out of some decent looking plywood and stain and finish it, or use ready made shelf material. If you use 1/2 plywood it should not bend or flex. Be sure you get some good heavy duty shelf brackets that extend their support out as far as possible, and for sure screw them into your studs. They make good shelf brackets out of metal, but here are some I "googled" that are made out of wood and look pretty nice. http://tylermorriswoodworking.com/wood_shelf_brackets_10_straight.cfm

I have a new Sony VW40 projector, so I know where you are coming from on the size and weight. I did the pipe and Chief mount too, but it sounds like that's not what you want.

Thanks for that link..I appreciate it. :) I wonder if they would custom make me one that would extend to about 20 inches? Those look very nice!

Thanks again.

thanks for the idea. I should have been more clear though. I won't be placing the Pearl upside down. It will be about 3.5 feet above our heads lol. :) I currently have it on my top component rack as well but I want to use that middle space on the back wall for seating.

That is some serious pipes; like something from a submarine. :D

Depending on your stup, you may HAVE to place the Pearl upside down. The lens shift has a much greater range "upwards" (as referenced when the unit is upright) than it does downward.

Yep, I had no choice (due to lens shift) and had to place it upside down. I learned this AFTER building a 20 inch deep shelf using heavy duty "closet" shelves from HD.

mlbrand...thanks so much for that link as I called them earlier today and ordered a couple of the 14 inch shelf brackets. I think with a good quality shelf, it will be great. These can hold up to 250 lbs.

I'll post a follow up when I get it mounted and take some pics. The brackets are set to arrive Monday afternoon. :)

Tim,

Great, I'm glad that worked out for you. Those do look like really nice wood shelf brackets, and for a fair price. I look forward to the pics.

have read through this thread and *still* have the question:

What are the best settings to tweak from default for HDMI input to the projector? (Not interested in the service menu, etc....)
Thanks

No single answer will work: You need to rent or buy a basic calibration disc like Digital Video Essentials, and that will walk you through it it with simple test patterns. Part of it will depend on your screen, and your room, as well.

Pearl's owners, please help me make the decision by replying with your light bulb experience. Thanks a million.

Well, it's almost a year since this post and I have had my Pearl for about a year. The first lamp has just over 700 hours on it and it is getting quite dim. It is time to replace.

I originally started out using the low lamp setting and swtiched to high after about 500 hours or so, because light output started to diminish. Have other Pearl owners had similar experiences?

Bart

I've used my Pearl exclusively in low-lamp mode. I have no noticable brightness dropoff that I can tell at ~2850 hours as of right now. That said, I'll most likely call up Mack soon to get my first replacement from its bulb warranty since I'm getting awfully close to the 3000 hours that the bulb is rated for in low mode. ;) That said, I seem to recall seeing quite a few reports of bulbs dying with low usage (< 1000 hours) here, so what you're seeing doesn't seem out-of-the-ordinary to me...

I'm at about 1100 hours and haven't noticed a problem BUT I've changed screens and rooms three times during my ownership of the unit, so it might be hard to have noticed. I still use LOW lamp mode most of the time when watching 16x9 content on a 50 inch tall screen. When zooming out to watch 2.35:1 on the same height screen, but at 120 inch wide (not diag) I sometimes turn the bulb to high.

Note that this is in a bat cave room, with a 2.0 gain Stewart screen. I'd guess that with a lower gain screen and in a normal room I might be using the high bulb setting more. At this rate, I might end up only using two bulbs over the life of the projector. That is, I've been using it for about 1100 hours over 18 months. I cannot imagine I won't have got bit by the upgrade bug somewhere between 3 to 5 years and retire the Pearl. But who knows?

I'm at about 1100 hours and haven't noticed a problem BUT I've changed screens and rooms three times during my ownership of the unit, so it might be hard to have noticed. I still use LOW lamp mode most of the time when watching 16x9 content on a 50 inch tall screen. When zooming out to watch 2.35:1 on the same height screen, but at 120 inch wide (not diag) I sometimes turn the bulb to high.

Note that this is in a bat cave room, with a 2.0 gain Stewart screen. I'd guess that with a lower gain screen and in a normal room I might be using the high bulb setting more. At this rate, I might end up only using two bulbs over the life of the projector. That is, I've been using it for about 1100 hours over 18 months. I cannot imagine I won't have got bit by the upgrade bug somewhere between 3 to 5 years and retire the Pearl. But who knows?

I probably should have noted in my original post that I have a 110" screen (white, 1.1 gain.) My dedicated theater room is in the basement, with no windows or ambient light other than that coming from my gear in the back of the theater.

Does anyone have experience with an inexpensive and reliable source for the lamp? My local dealer is out of stock and he charges $350. I see some places selling for as low as $260, but none are in stock. Thanks in advance!

Bart

Call Jason at AVS. I purchased mine from him.

Call Jason at AVS. I purchased mine from him.

Ditto.

Got my Sony VPL-VW50 calibrated today after having installed a new bulb a bit back. Thought I would post the results here for comments by others... Look good? Suggestions?

http://www.photodump.org/stored26/VPL-VW50CalibrationPG1.jpg

http://www.photodump.org/stored26/VPL-VW50CalibrationPG2.jpg

http://www.photodump.org/stored26/VPL-VW50CalibrationPG3.jpg

http://www.photodump.org/stored26/VPL-VW50CalibrationPG3.jpg

bump

Looks like a nice calibration. I was surprised by the "before" readings. I thought in the warm setting the color temp wouldn't be the far off.

Do you have gamma graphs, as well?

Ignoring the numbers, how would you describe the before and after difference in image quality?

--

How much did you pay? Did you calibrate more than one input? What part of the world are you in?

Looks like a nice calibration. I was surprised by the "before" readings. I thought in the warm setting the color temp wouldn't be the far off.

Do you have gamma graphs, as well?

No gamma graphs.

Ignoring the numbers, how would you describe the before and after difference in image quality?

Much, MUCH improved picture. Especially the color. He went into the service menus a bit too though I did not watch the entire time. Definitely worth the $250, yes, $250. Took a chance and had Best Buy Magnolia do it. He said he had been ISF certified (showed me the papers), had all sorts of equipment, and had been doing it for about 6 or 7 years.

--

How much did you pay? Did you calibrate more than one input? What part of the world are you in?

Only did one input since all the HDMI stuff goes through my AVR and then to the projector. VERY happy with it.

Sounds great. What part of the country are you in? (Wondering whether your person might be close enough to me to hit up.)

Sounds great. What part of the country are you in? (Wondering whether your person might be close enough to me to hit up.)

DFW area

Kewl. Too far away from me, but good to know. One would think finding a good tech in the SF Bay Area would be easy but it has been surprisingly challenging, unless I just choose someone at random from the ISF or THX web site.

Kewl. Too far away from me, but good to know. One would think finding a good tech in the SF Bay Area would be easy but it has been surprisingly challenging, unless I just choose someone at random from the ISF or THX web site.


http://www.lionav.com/mchuckwilliams.php

He did a great job on a 65" Mitsubishi I used to have.

Question for those more familar/knowledgeable..

I recently got a Sony STR-DA2400ES receiver and have been contemplating changing so my DirecTV HD-DVR is connected via component, instead of HDMI as it is now, so the 2400ES can do the 1080p upscaling. Before I go through the trouble of disconnecting, connecting, etc., etc. (my equipment is in a closet) I wanted to get some feedback from others with the same (or similar setup). The STR-DA2400ES upscales component inputs to 1080p using Faroujda processor and then outputs via HDMI.

In other words, is there a noticeable difference in picture quality with DTV HD at 1080i via HDMI compared to it being upscaled to 1080p?

Connections currently are: DirecTV HD-DVR > HDMI > STR-DA2400ES > HDMI > VPL-VW50

Contemplating (in order to take advantage of the Faroujda 1080p upscaling in the AVR) change to: DirecTV HD-DVR > Componenent > STR-DA2400ES > HDMI > VPL-VW50
Thanks!

Question for those more familar/knowledgeable..

I recently got a Sony STR-DA2400ES receiver and have been contemplating changing so my DirecTV HD-DVR is connected via component, instead of HDMI as it is now, so the 2400ES can do the 1080p upscaling. Before I go through the trouble of disconnecting, connecting, etc., etc. (my equipment is in a closet) I wanted to get some feedback from others with the same (or similar setup). The STR-DA2400ES upscales component inputs to 1080p using Faroujda processor and then outputs via HDMI.

In other words, is there a noticeable difference in picture quality with DTV HD at 1080i via HDMI compared to it being upscaled to 1080p?

Connections currently are: DirecTV HD-DVR > HDMI > STR-DA2400ES > HDMI > VPL-VW50

Contemplating (in order to take advantage of the Faroujda 1080p upscaling in the AVR) change to: DirecTV HD-DVR > Componenent > STR-DA2400ES > HDMI > VPL-VW50
Thanks!What you are trying to determine is if the DA2400 will upscale to 1080p better than the VW50. Any signal input to the projector is displayed at 1080p. If you have the DVR set to native output, it will output 480i/p, 720p or 1080i, depending on the input source. Choose the connection configuration that looks best to you. If you go to HDMI 1080p, you can introduce issues with signal losses, depending on cable and cable length.

What you are trying to determine is if the DA2400 will upscale to 1080p better than the VW50. Any signal input to the projector is displayed at 1080p. If you have the DVR set to native output, it will output 480i/p, 720p or 1080i, depending on the input source. Choose the connection configuration that looks best to you. If you go to HDMI 1080p, you can introduce issues with signal losses, depending on cable and cable length.

Thanks for the info. I currently have the DirecTV HDTV settings so that the ONLY resolution checked are 1080i and 1080p. There are only a few things on DTV currently in 1080p but we do occasionally watch and if you do not have 1080p checked it will not display them. I also have "Native" set to Off. I have it set to off because when it is on and change between channels at differing resolutions the DirecTV box takes a moment to adjust which is very annoying.

I was thinking (without knowledge, i.e. based on reading, dangerous sometimes I know!) that the Faroujda processor in the AVR would do a better job than the VPL-VW50.

Did I understand you right that no matter what signal is sent to the VPL-VW50 it will upscale it to 1080p?

How would you suggest connecting my equipment for best PQ?

I was thinking (without knowledge, i.e. based on reading, dangerous sometimes I know!) that the Faroujda processor in the AVR would do a better job than the VPL-VW50.

Did I understand you right that no matter what signal is sent to the VPL-VW50 it will upscale it to 1080p? You basically have to connect it both ways to see which does the best in up-scaling.

Yes, the VW50 is a fixed pixel display and therefore only displays 1920x1080. There is no interlaced output on fixed pixel displays.

If ypu have the DVR set to 1080i/p, then it really doesn't matter much on how you connect it. The DVR will up-scale anything not 1920x1080 then it will be your processor, either the receiver or projector will need to de-interlace the signal. In this situation, I would probably look at sending the signal direct to the projector.

It is definitely worth letting your eyes be the judge. I found that the Pearl did a better job of turning 1080i film based content from DISH into 1080p than my Reon processing in my AVR -- and the Reon chip is typically considered better than the Faroujda.

Man, those are impressive before and afters... I always liked the lowly regarded pearl myself. :)

Well, it's almost a year since this post and I have had my Pearl for about a year. The first lamp has just over 700 hours on it and it is getting quite dim. It is time to replace.

I originally started out using the low lamp setting and swtiched to high after about 500 hours or so, because light output started to diminish. Have other Pearl owners had similar experiences?

Bart

Interesting. Mine died last week with just 770 hours! Isn't it supposed to last 3000 hours???

Interesting. Mine died last week with just 770 hours! Isn't it supposed to last 3000 hours???

Unfortunately common.

Thread here: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=10218040#post10218040

mine lasted 1300 hours.. it got dark fast.. or maybe I just didnt notice.. replaced and wow.. like a new projector again..

-Brad

I have a Sony Pearl which I thoroughly enjoy. However, I've been noticing some odd shades and colors on occasion in the picture (certain areas on faces and such). It's not drastic, but I do see it from time to time.

Would a faulty lamp cause this? I pulled the lamp out to inspect and everything seems fine other than some "spidering" in the reflective area (see pic for reference). Is this normal or am I about to lose my lamp?

This is the original lamp, the pj has 471 hours in high mode and was ISF calibrated.

Thanks!
John

Do you have a photo of what the image looks like when it's wrong? Is it wrong all the time?

I don't but the best way to describe it would be a VERY mild version of an Andy Warhol painting and not the entire picture. Just overblown colors in certain areas; weird.

Is it there all the time?


Is it always in the same place on the screen?

No, not always. I just notice on occasion in flesh tones. I'm using a PS3 with HDMI cables running straight into the pj. Does my bulb look odd or is the "cracking" normal?

My Pearl is mounted in a way that taking the bulb out to look at it is a big production so I apologize but I can't do that.

But the intermittent nature suggests something else unless it always shows up under particular circumstances.

Hello everyone, I have a question regarding this projector.

Can anyone tell me what causes a "double image"? Just for a little background, it has been "serviced", and the bulb is relatively new. Is this something I can fix myself?

Any advice is greatly appreciated!

Hello everyone, I have a question regarding this projector.

Can anyone tell me what causes a "double image"? Just for a little background, it has been "serviced", and the bulb is relatively new. Is this something I can fix myself?

Any advice is greatly appreciated!

How do u have it hooked up? Try turning off & unplugging your receiver & BD player & on again.

How do u have it hooked up? Try turning off & unplugging your receiver & BD player & on again.

It is hooked up via component, and it happens regardless of source. It has been serviced once, along with the bulb replacement, and it was corrected, but apparently it was a temporary fix.

Do we know what actually causes a "double image" in SXRD technology?

Have u tried it with hdmi just to see? I've had that same problem too but a simply on/off unplugged of everything fixed it.

I don't know the solution, except to say that I believe the Sony service center warranties their work for a year, so if it was serviced for this in the last year, they may be willing to fix it for free -- and perhaps actually solve it.

I saw a used VW50 with 1500 hours going for about $1500 on Craigslist.
How does the VW50 stack up against the current lineup of 1080p projectors in the $1500 to $2000 street price at the stores new?

I saw a used VW50 with 1500 hours going for about $1500 on Craigslist.
How does the VW50 stack up against the current lineup of 1080p projectors in the $1500 to $2000 street price at the stores new?

Not bad I use to have the pearl, but it does lack brightnees and deep color support which the hw10 will give. Or the others for that fact, even the vw40 will from what I've read.

Of course, neither brightness nor deep color matters much in particular situations:

If you have a dedicated room &/or your screen size / gain is appropriate, the brightness will be correct.

If you have deep color sources, you may want deep color playback. Otherwise, since even Blu-ray is not deep color, this is not likely to matter. I actually have my Oppo blu-ray player set to deep color output, so that any processing the Oppo does is in the higher bit depth and less likely to introduce artifacts. And my Pearl doesn't mind that deep color source at all.

---

I would actually say the difference between competing current models & the Pearl may be the level of absolute black (& contrast?). But to really improve upon that, you have to step up to projectors closer to $4k+, like the JVC DILA etc.

I saw a used VW50 with 1500 hours going for about $1500 on Craigslist.
How does the VW50 stack up against the current lineup of 1080p projectors in the $1500 to $2000 street price at the stores new?
I bought mine as a floor model at BB. Bulb had high hours but got it replaced for free with a new one and 3 year warrenty for another one. All that and less that 1500. I'm very pleased with brightness but I have a cave. When lights are on it's clearly washed out but when off it's all there. I'm sure there are punchier but for the price the blacks are great and at 100" it's bright enough for me with the lights out. With that kind of time on it I'd look for lower price since new bulbs will run you 250-350 (although you might find cheaper).

I actually have my Oppo blu-ray player set to deep color output, so that any processing the Oppo does is in the higher bit depth and less likely to introduce artifacts. And my Pearl doesn't mind that deep color source at all.
I believe the Pearl's inputs are HDMI 1.2, which don't support DC, so the Oppo must produce a non-DC output for the Pearl, regardless of the setting.

I saw a used VW50 with 1500 hours going for about $1500 on Craigslist.
How does the VW50 stack up against the current lineup of 1080p projectors in the $1500 to $2000 street price at the stores new?

I'm thinking I may be putting mine up for sale soon, and with 1600 hrs on the bulb, I was hoping to get between $1250-$1500.
Even though the Pioneer has addressed a few issues I had with the Pearl, there are still several things I like much, much better on the Sony. The VW50 has been left behind a bit in the wake of newer JVC and Sonys, but it still seems like even $1500 for the performance you can get from a used Pearl is a hell of a bargain compared to the pj's that were setting this forum on fire just a few years back.

That is interesting Paulidan. I was looking at a Pearl locally for around that price range. I initially thought it was a steal, but now I guess it looks like it is the going rate. I wonder how this pj would compare to a Panny 3000.

well, I want to be realistic and a bit conservative. I believe the new low priced SXRD pj is out and probably around $3000. So you gotta figure if people can get a brand new basic model for XXXX, they would probably only pay 1/2 that for a used older model.

I'm not familiar with the Panasonic, but from my perspective the Pearl sure felt like a 'luxury' PJ- and even in comparison to the Pioneer I replaced it with, it still seems more of a luxury piece in terms of its aesthetic appearance as well as those little features that make life more enjoyable. I use a constant height set-up, so the zoom and shift from the remote was a pleasure to use (in comparison, the Pioneer only has power zoom and manual shift). The thing was also dead silent which was a huge plus for me since I sit so close to it.
Honestly, the only weakness in the Pearl for me was uniformity- and if it wasn't for the fact that I watch a lot of B&W content (which is where the uniformity issues are more revealing) I would probably still happily be using it and not looking for anything else.

I do like the Pioneer, but the Pearl was more color accurate, quieter, cooler looking, had a better array of inputs, had more power features...

Seems like there is no perfect projector. It's always a trade off.

Thanks Paulidan. It looks like I may have to bow out of this unfortunately. Datacolor just hit me with a $1200 bill for my spectro. Not really happy with them right now. Anyway, I can wait and see what Cedia brings.

Folks, is the convergence not adjustable on this projector? I recently got hired at a place that uses a VPL-VW50 in their media room. The convergence is clearly off (green separate, the blue and red appear to be together), and it would be a great fix to make text appear sharper.

I've read through this thread and no-one's talked about adjusting it.

Regards -H

Folks, is the convergence not adjustable on this projector?

Nope.

Though I'd love to hear that I am wrong. My convergence is within a half pixel but getting it even better would be nice.

The VPL-50 Pearl has been around long enough that there should be a pretty good idea of lamp life expectancy. We have about 2200 hours on our lamp, and have switched to high mode. We still get an impressive picture, but I'm wondering when to expect to put in the new lamp. Our original lamp has lost a great deal of its brightness. What are the numbers users have experienced?

db

I chose to replace the lamp at some point between 1600 and 1800 hours. I had started using high lamp mode about 1000 hours into the bulb's life.

The additional pop of the new lamp was quite nice. I'm in low lamp mode and it's brighter than the prior bulb in high mode.

Folks, is the convergence not adjustable on this projector? I recently got hired at a place that uses a VPL-VW50 in their media room. The convergence is clearly off (green separate, the blue and red appear to be together), and it would be a great fix to make text appear sharper.

I've read through this thread and no-one's talked about adjusting it.

Regards -H

Convergence cannot be adjusted on this projector (Well, you can, but it is major surgery - disassemble and physically move the panels around - not a job for 99.9% of people). Depending on your misconvergence - it can be helped quite a bit, and potentially completely corrected if you have the right kind of misconvergence. If your misconvergence is all horizontal and consistant across the screen, you can use the Y/C delay on a video processor to make it better or perfect.

Here is my experience with the Pearl:

I have used a Pearl from Jan. 2007 until Aug. 2008 when I upgraded to the Black Pearl for its vertical stretch setup. The projector has only 1000 hours on the bulb and was used exclusively on the low setting. It is also in pristine condition since I like to take great care of my equipment. Since I installed the Black Pearl, the Pearl has been sitting packed up in its original box. I have been planning to sell it but other priorities kept me busy from dealing with this yet.

As Paulidan said, the Pearl is a wonderful projector. It is very silent, has excellent colour reproduction and contrast, enough brightness (for me). I have a 133" diagonal screen, and I sit at 14' away in a dark room with light walls. I like the picture to be like in the cinema, not too bright as it would bother me in total darkness. There were reports about convergence errors and shading related to some Pearl projectors. However, my experience with the Pearl was positive. It has mild shading but one has to look for it on black and white content. It is simply not noticeable on colour images. Convergence is close to perfect, except the red colour which is shifted horizontally by up to one pixel I would say. As 'usualsuspects' indicated above, horizontal misconvergence can be easily counteracted from the video processor. I, however, was not bothered by this, despite sitting relatively close to the screen.

Both the Pearl and Black Pearl are very good looking projectors. Since my walls are light coloured, the colour of the Pearl was a better match to my room than the Black Pearl.

To make a story short, the Pearl is an excellent projector. I think most home theatre enthusiasts would be happy with one.

HI everyone... I am using vpl vw50 and try to adjust the color temperature to D65 using spyder3 and the HCFR software.

From the beginning I felt my projector too bluish even in dark scene or light scene. When i measured, I found out the blue level at RGB graph is sky rocket high compare to red and green. Even i lowering the blue gain till minimum it will be around 130%.

Anyone can give me suggestion how to tune the projector?

HI everyone... I am using vpl vw50 and try to adjust the color temperature to D65 using spyder3 and the HCFR software.

From the beginning I felt my projector too bluish even in dark scene or light scene. When i measured, I found out the blue level at RGB graph is sky rocket high compare to red and green. Even i lowering the blue gain till minimum it will be around 130%.

Anyone can give me suggestion how to tune the projector?

First I would make sure you are in Low colortemp - the medium and high colortemps are jacked re d65. After setting it to low colortemp - go into the panel drivers in the service menu and adjust the blue panel. Adjusting the panel drivers can get you very close to D65 - try leaving green alone and adjust the blue and red panels.

Anyone can give me suggestion how to tune the projector?
Here are my latest D65 settings, which I arrived at by visually comparing to a D65 reference side-by-side. Make adjustments to Custom3 (which is similar to Low), since it can get much closer to D65 than Custom1 or Custom2 can.

Custom3
Gain
R: 0
G: -8
B: -10
Bias
R: 6
G: 10
B: 0

Help!!!! How to hard reset the setting in the service menu???
If not, can you tell me the default value for the setting in the service menu???
Headache!!!

Help!!!! How to hard reset the setting in the service menu???
If not, can you tell me the default value for the setting in the service menu???
Headache!!!If its anything like the VW60 there is no reset for the service menu, only for the user menu. Though the service menu does seem to come from the factory with many of the service menu values exactly the same for each projector, it also appears not quite every factory set value is identical from projector to projector (I'm guessing it may have to do with hardware/component changes made during the production run? but I don't really know). That's why its usually advised that if you are going to mess around in the service menu you need to record all the factory set values FIRST before 'adjusting'. Hopefully someone with another VW50 can assist you in getting most of the original factory settings back into your service menu. However there are a lot of values in the service menu and it probably would help if you could be more specific and list just the ones you need. Sorry I can't help any further as I only have a VW60. Good luck.

Does anyone have light output numbers for their screen?

I just measured the output on my 110" diagonal screen and the numbers seem a little high to me. My bulb has 1500 hours on it so I expected a value below 10.

With the bulb on low, I measured 91 lux which converts to about 11 fL.
With the bulb on high, I measured 103 lux which converts to about 12.5 fL.

Somehow a lot of the menus have become locked out on my VW50. I can't adjust anything on the Picture menu or the Screen menu as there is just a note saying something like No changes are allowed.

Any ideas on how I can regain control of my VW50?

:-(

LewK

Do you have an active input tunred on and feeding into the pj? ie dvd, cable, etc... Without one, several menu features will be locked out.

Sick Puppy:

Thanks! That was it. I've never run into that issue before. :-\ I was testing some coding in my Pronto remote and had only turned on the projector. I was getting seriously freaked out when I couldn't adjust anything! :-}

Thanks again!

LewK

Glad to help.

Hi.
Hope you guys can help. Horizontal lines on my Pearl. Check out the white wall in the screen capture. Happens on all video sources. Suspect a power line noise issue. Any input as to what this might be would be gratefully appreciated. Thanks.

David

Hi.
Hope you guys can help. Horizontal lines on my Pearl. Check out the white wall in the screen capture. Happens on all video sources. Suspect a power line noise issue. Any input as to what this might be would be gratefully appreciated. Thanks.

David

I'm not really sure what i am looking at in the photo but the best way to rule out power line issues is to try another power source -- another circuit or better a different location, like a friend's home.

I second that, what exactly are we looking at here?

It is a striping of horizontal lines most visible in the white wall area of the screen capture. Happens on all video sources. I have tried the projector on other circuits in the home but not at another house. Before I got the Pearl, I purchased a Mitsubishi projector and it had the same problem so I doubt its the projector. I'm attaching a crop of the screen capture that hopefully will show the lines more. Would a power line filter help with this situation?

BTW, thanks for replying. I've been to other forums looking for answers and AVS is the first to actually help.

It is a striping of horizontal lines most visible in the white wall area of the screen capture. Happens on all video sources. I have tried the projector on other circuits in the home but not at another house. Before I got the Pearl, I purchased a Mitsubishi projector and it had the same problem so I doubt its the projector. I'm attaching a crop of the screen capture that hopefully will show the lines more. Would a power line filter help with this situation?

BTW, thanks for replying. I've been to other forums looking for answers and AVS is the first to actually help.


Wow I can't hardly see s*** in that screen capture either. However, if you the same problem with a different projector, and you have the same problem on a different circuit, that's very telling.

Did you try a different source and HDMI cable and different power cord and different outlet? And you still have the problem?

If you have another TV or display, do you see the problem there, too?

----

Definitely try a different house altogether and see if that solves it. Before you start applying solutions, you really want to make sure you know what the problem is.

Can any Pearl experts help me with this one?

About a week ago, I turned on my Pearl to discover the attached image.

I no longer see the on-screen menu, and this image appears on all inputs (cycling inputs manually from the button on the projector itself).

I took the unit to the authorized repair center, and they indicated that I need to replace both the Q and C boards (sounds odd), at a cost of $1140.

Anyone have any thoughts?

Now that I have my theater "set up" and testing, I am noticing my Pearl (1300 hrs in service, 3 hrs on a new lamp), I am noticing my blacks (IRE 0) aren't really "black" anymore, but have a slight push of blue that I can't dial out, either in the user menu, or my limited knowledge of the service menu.

Because this is a new theater for me and the Pearl has been boxed up since we moved in 2009, I'm not sure what the issue is. I do have a new HP screen though. I am very surprised though in the elevation of black level I'm seeing...things look a bit washed out. I didn't think an HP screen would do that (I came from a Carada BW). I'm roughly calibrated, low lamp mode, etc.

Am wondering if I need to hire out an ISF calibrator, look to repair, or bite the bullet and get another projector.

I'm quite sure that the combination of new bulb and HP screen is making this issue more visible.

If you do have "blue" black, you can first try to dial back the Blue Panel Driver in the Service Menu. Just do it as an experiment to see if that will balance the "color" of black.

It works for me.

As for the wash-out, that sounds like it might be a gamma issue. You most likely had it calibrated for the Brilliant White screen. The High Power is a different animal and will surely require a new gamma curve.

Thanks "Doc"

I've already looked at the panel driver and that did absolutely nothing. I'll have to check the gamma though...just have to find the image director software (and serial cable...and USB adapter).

Ed

Panel Driver did nothing, eh?

Sounds like it might be the polarizer or panel. Not a fun read, but informative...HERE (http://sites.google.com/site/sonylcdrptvproblems/optical-block-defects)

Doc,

Yeah, I thought about that as well, but the blue is so uniform, I feel it has to be something else.

Trying to find my software. I'm hoping there's an ISO download somewhere. :)

Thanks
Ed

I'm not sure which version you need for the vw50, but shoot me a PM if you don't come up with anything. I've got 3.0.

Thanks. Looks like v2.1 works just fine with it.

Unfortunately, it doesn't seem to be taking the blue out of a neutral black image. :(