A new way to mods the EP1500.

http://www.agoraquest.com/viewtopic.php?topic=25973&forum=65&keyword2=electronics

Looks cool, but may be in wrong forum.

Great find ............. *laughs*

Maybe we can help people here......don't do these silly mods... I only see one
useful mod out of many.....

Just think, all that amp goodness going through some low grade tinned wire, circuit board traces and cheapie nickel-plated binding posts (shudder).

and

Now the audio signal goes from the circuit board through solid core copper wire right to the gold plated binding posts.
The internal power wiring appears to be the same cheap grade of wiring.

*I guess they don't know that the tinned wire is copper wire, and tinned copper reduces copper oxidation.... lol

*Replacing it with solid wire is not better than the same gauge stranded wire,
stranded wire gives you flexibility to route the wires easier. lol

*What is the problem with circuit board traces? none.

*What is the problem with nickel plated binding posts ? none really.

*Rewiring will do nothing, did his tech guy not take electronics 101 class?

Ribbon cable comments? -> :rolleyes:

Gold plated 120 VAC plug -> :rolleyes:

The only good mod is the cardboard tube to force the airflow into the
heatsinks, this is a great mod. Save your money and don't bother doing the rest.

Could a Admin move this to the right place.

Sorry.

Could a Admin move this to the right place.

Sorry.


Maybe the forum needs a renaming.

DIY speakers and electroncs.

DIY speakers and subs is silly because subs are speakers. :p

Great find ............. *laughs*

Maybe we can help people here......don't do these silly mods... I only see one
useful mod out of many.....

Just think, all that amp goodness going through some low grade tinned wire, circuit board traces and cheapie nickel-plated binding posts (shudder).

and

Now the audio signal goes from the circuit board through solid core copper wire right to the gold plated binding posts.
The internal power wiring appears to be the same cheap grade of wiring.

*I guess they don't know that the tinned wire is copper wire, and tinned copper reduces copper oxidation.... lol

*Replacing it with solid wire is not better than the same gauge stranded wire,
stranded wire gives you flexibility to route the wires easier. lol

*What is the problem with circuit board traces? none.

*What is the problem with nickel plated binding posts ? none really.

*Rewiring will do nothing, did his tech guy not take electronics 101 class?

Ribbon cable comments? -> :rolleyes:

Gold plated 120 VAC plug -> :rolleyes:

The only good mod is the cardboard tube to force the airflow into the
heatsinks, this is a great mod. Save your money and don't bother doing the rest.



It's always interesting to see the extents that some will go to to "improve" a product.

Good 'sanity check' Thy... I hope this thread stays in one piece to show people what *not* to do.

Best,
Mark

Good 'sanity check' Thy... I hope this thread stays in one piece to show people what *not* to do.

Best,
Mark

Sorry guys. I just put this up just for the fan part or this mod. Is there a way for me to rename the (Title).

I got really bored today...and as a result of reading this thread I dug up some colored 80mm fans from my PC overclocking days.
http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a79/Amigo207/DSCN1427.jpg
http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a79/Amigo207/DSCN1426.jpg
Much quiter than the stock fan ;)

What model is that and it has to be 80mm? Correct?

Model: Ep1500
The stock fan is 80mm. So this one was a drop-in replacement.

Looks sweet even though the fan is on the back side of the amp. :p

Looks sweet even though the fan is on the back side of the amp. :p

Lol I didn't intentionally mount my fan like his. I just wanted a quiter, cooler looking drop-in replacement fan :p

Hey Exocer, that look good. I'm a big timer o/cer with water cooling in my pc. I going to do 2 80mm fans....but the quiter ones. I might cut a 120mm fan on top and just replace the 1 80mm fan with a quiter one. :D

Im an Ex-Oc-er ;)

I pretty much leave my computer at the default speeds...even playing games. Remember the celeron 300a? :D

That water cooling does some amazing things...I've always been a fan of fans and aluminum cases(well this doesn't really count) and copper heatsinks to drop temps ;)

Ah yes, overclocking. About a year ago I brought a 1.8ghz p4 to 3ghz on air cooling and stock heatsinks.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v202/zer04evr/th_untitled.jpg (http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v202/zer04evr/untitled.jpg)



And to Soloxp: Would a 120mm fan fit on the top???

Hey Exocer, that look good. I'm a big timer o/cer with water cooling in my pc. I going to do 2 80mm fans....but the quiter ones. I might cut a 120mm fan on top and just replace the 1 80mm fan with a quiter one. :D

Sounds like a plan. My last case was so cheap I don't even remember the brand...Anyway, I ended up cutting two 80mm holes on the top with a dremel right behind my Dvd-rom drive. Be careful you have enough clearence for those drives.
http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a79/Amigo207/P1020004.jpg
http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a79/Amigo207/DSCN0271.jpg
My current case costs way too much to cut ;)
http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a79/Amigo207/new2.jpg

Remember the celeron 300a?

lol...........

Remember the celeron 300a?

lol...........

I had one of those.... :)

Also an ex OCer here. I've gravitated towards audio over the past year, so my money supports that instead of computer parts/hardware.

Exocer did you have to change that 4 pin plug on that 80mm fan in anyway to get it to fit with the ep1500?

thx

Its actually a 3-pin connector for this Antec fan. The stock Ep1500 fan has a 2-pin connector, so what I did was test which of the three holes on the Antec fan worked. It turns out the two working pins were right next to eachother (which is normal) so I just connected it that way, with the two working pins. No modifications necessary.

rgr thx

np ;)

Sounds like a plan. My last case was so cheap I don't even remember the brand...Anyway, I ended up cutting two 80mm holes on the top with a dremel right behind my Dvd-rom drive. Be careful you have enough clearence for those drives.
http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a79/Amigo207/P1020004.jpg
http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a79/Amigo207/DSCN0271.jpg
My current case costs way too much to cut ;)
http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a79/Amigo207/new2.jpg

Gayest thing I've ever seen is case modding. :p

Where's the taste?

You obviously haven't involved yourself in a good game of Half Life in the dark have you? :p

I'm confused, are you saying that involving yourself in a good game of half life in the dark is gayer than case modding?

My computer is now under the desk because of my interest in audio (no space for the case and bookshelf speakers on my computer desk). At the time I modded my last case (2 80mm holes pictured above) I was in posession of a pesky P4 processor that didn't overclock as well as I would have liked. Adding the top two fans actually helped in getting me closer to whatever my goal was at the time...but that was years ago ;)

What did I start here. :D

What did I start here. :D

You started a thread that got me interested in switching out my stock Ep-1500 fan I can tell you that much :D thanks

You started a thread that got me interested in switching out my stock Ep-1500 fan I can tell you that much :D thanks

Whatever you decide to do, don't forget the neon... :p

Whatever you decide to do, don't forget the neon... :p
Believe me I won't forget the neon...it wouldn't be a true amp without it ;)

You started a thread that got me interested in switching out my stock Ep-1500 fan I can tell you that much :D thanks


I got my EP1500 working good now, now it's time for me to do the same.

Here are some pic's I did. Later i'll put a fan in front too.

http://home.austin.rr.com/soloxp/images/pic/amp1.jpg

http://home.austin.rr.com/soloxp/images/pic/amp2.jpg

http://home.austin.rr.com/soloxp/images/pic/amp3.jpg

http://home.austin.rr.com/soloxp/images/pic/amp4.jpg


On pic #3 you see that I pull the hold plug out....just in case I need to get something fix. All I have to do is plug the fan that came with the amp back in. :D

Here are some pic's I did. Later i'll put a fan in front too.

http://home.austin.rr.com/soloxp/images/pic/amp1.jpg

http://home.austin.rr.com/soloxp/images/pic/amp2.jpg

http://home.austin.rr.com/soloxp/images/pic/amp3.jpg

http://home.austin.rr.com/soloxp/images/pic/amp4.jpg


On pic #3 you see that I pull the hold plug out....just in case I need to get something fix. All I have to do is plug the fan that came with the amp back in. :D

Looking good solo ;)

About the fan for the EP series, make sure you get a 24V one, not a 12V one.

About the fan for the EP series, make sure you get a 24V one, not a 12V one.


I thinks the one I put in is a 12v. Why not 12v.

Good point, I didn't even think to check. I'll do that tomorrow.

My assumption is that running a 12v fan at 24v will overload the fan and cause it to die sooner.

Just reporting back to let you guys know everything is okay with the Antec fan.

My assumption is that running a 12v fan at 24v will overload the fan and cause it to die sooner. Yup. Try plugging a household fan into 220V and see how long it lasts. ;) And it kinda defeats the purpose. The fan will spin faster and be far noisier than it's designed to be. Much of the noise reduction of low-noise fans comes from simply spinning them slower although good mechanical design is also a factor.

The new fan is much quieter than the stock fan, even if its spinning faster than it should. But I understand and agree with your statement.

amateurs I tell ya :p

http://repo.jackmoves.com/d/24223-2/Front_Mount_1.jpg

http://repo.jackmoves.com/d/24230-2/Front_Mount_3.jpg

These are from my last WC'd pc, the processor was WC'd, and the vid card had a Swiftech MCW-50T 80 watt peltier cooling the vid card core which was obviously also being watercooled. Modified Chevy Chevette heater core being used as a front mount radiator with 2 x 120mm low speed fans pulling air through the front.

I sell the EP-1500 and EP-2500 with the proper 24 volt quiet fan installed (included in the price). Makes a HUGE difference. Do not put a 12 volt fan in there. Since it is quiet, you won't notice it when your 12v fan fails. You WILL notice it when your amp thermals out. :(

what fan do you put in them soundood???

yeah where can we get 24v fans?? when i replace my onkyo with an HK receiver and get a poweramp its definitely gonna be one of these behringers, so i needsta know :)

No responses to where we can get fans to modify the Behringer amps? And perhaps a how-to. Has to be a link somewhere.

No responses to where we can get fans to modify the Behringer amps? And perhaps a how-to. Has to be a link somewhere.

digikey.com

as to the how to..

1. open the case (make sure its unplugged)
2. Remove old fan by clipping the leads close to the fan
3. Install new fan by soldering (or crimp if you must) onto the old leads.
4. close case

One other point that will make a big difference and also make cleaning very convenient is: Turn the fan around so it sucks air in from the front rather than blowing it in from the rear. That way you do not have to take the amp apart to clean the filter cloth at the front.

It is also usually sucking cooler air in from the front than warmer air from the rear.

Chuck

One thing to remember about reversing the airflow however...it is less effective. If you are running a particularly brutal load, keep the airflow in the stock direction. If the load isn't that bad, then reverse away.

And yes, Digikey is a good resource for the 24 volt fans...if they have them in stock.

The Panaflo FBA08A24L1A is an usual replacement for this mod, Digikey and Arrow have stock at this moment.