Jacksonian: some Australian guy states at dtvforum(i am not allowed to post the link...this is only my second post) TW1000 come with the international warranty too, but i have hard time to believe it because i have red all what you gone throe with yours TW1000. Still, would be interesting, they are little bit cheaper as Hivizone and have the pjs now...

here at least the post:
I can let you know that there is no warranty valid from Epson Australia if you import from hivi zone or from out of the country. Have called Epson before and had been told only Australian models sold and bought here are covered. There is no international warranty, ring and ask yourself.


100% rubbish. You have been very mislead.

FOR ALL OF YOU. If you import the TW600, 700 or 1000 from overseas, does not matter where you get it from, whether price japan or hivizone. IT IS 100% covered by an international warranty, which means - ALL repairs will be done in AUSTRALIA as per the international warranty.

There is an international warranty of 2 YEARS on all 3 models only. The cheap data projectors do not carry this warranty.

CALL EPSON HEAD OFFICE in Sydney on 1300 139 600 ask for Technical Support and ask for Matthew.
He will set the record straight for anyone wishing to import from Price Japan or HI VI ZONE.

GO FOR IT! I got mine from price japan and guess what ? it's covered in Australia for any warranty issues for 2 years. I rang epson both before and after my purchase to double check, it' covered, 100%

I think if you are not happy with your projectors black level, it is probably best to calibrate it using a colour filter.You'll lower your light output by doing this.

You'll lower your light output by doing this.

And reduce ANSI contrast. I think W.Meyer posted something on this recently. I guess you choose your poison.

...ok... I guess I am not as familiar with this stuff as I thought. In any event, I think colour calibrating does lower your black level uniformly. I don't think it has an extremely bad affect and I can't imagine it's much worse than using an nd filter. Colour calibrating with a filter not only lowers black level, but it also get's you closer to D65. Anyhow, I guess there are all sorts of trade off's. I guess we will see what the Epson owners decide to do. Perhaps regular calibration methods are adequate for most folks.

Has anyone tried using a Harmony 880 remote with the Epson PowerLite Pro cinema 1080? I can't get anthing to work at all. Does the Epson use an IR and RF for remote functions? If so, the 880 won't work as it is IR only.

BTW, love the projector, huge improvement over my Sharp z10000. Full report to follow in a day or two.

mooneycj

Has anyone tried using a Harmony 880 remote with the Epson PowerLite Pro cinema 1080? I can't get anthing to work at all. Does the Epson use an IR and RF for remote functions? If so, the 880 won't work as it is IR only.

BTW, love the projector, huge improvement over my Sharp z10000. Full report to follow in a day or two.

mooneycj

Your Epson projector uses IR for remote control. I am using a Harmony 885 (Asian and European equivalent to your 880) to control my Epson TW-1000 (Same as your Cinema Pro 1080). Some of the default IR codes in the Harmony may not work with your Epson, you may have to use "learn RAW" in the Harmony setup website to program some of your Epson remote IR codes into your Harmony to make it work properly. That was what I had to do. If you are still having problem, you should try call the Logitech Harmony support hotline and they will help you out.

...ok... I guess I am not as familiar with this stuff as I thought. In any event, I think colour calibrating does lower your black level uniformly. I don't think it has an extremely bad affect and I can't imagine it's much worse than using an nd filter. Colour calibrating with a filter not only lowers black level, but it also get's you closer to D65. Anyhow, I guess there are all sorts of trade off's. I guess we will see what the Epson owners decide to do. Perhaps regular calibration methods are adequate for most folks.


Anything that you do that will decrease light output (like adding a filter, increasing projection distance, or close down the iris if it's user adjustable) will improve black level. But whether it will actually improve contrast at the same time is debatable, since you will be decreasing maximun white level as well. So the resultant contrast maybe better or maybe not depending on how much white level has decreased relative to black level.

Maybe a grey screen really is the best way to go.

HdAV magazine, which is a Chinese AV magazine published in Hong Kong has just reviewed the TW-1000 the latest issue. Since many people here are interested in meaured performance, I'll quote a few results here. They used ColorFacts to setup and optimise the projector in Theater Dark 2 mode. The lamp power set to low with auto-iris on. They also used ColorFacts to do measurement. The results are:-
Black level=0.001cd/m2
White level=33.7cd/m2
On-off contrast ratio=33,696:1

I'll include a few results for other projectors tested by HdAV recently for reference.

BenQ W10000
Black level=0.001cd/m2
White level=10.5cd/m2
On-off contrast ratio=10493:1

Panasonic AE1000
Black level=0.001
White level=36.4
On-off contrast ratio=36371:1

Sony VW50
Black level=0.001cd/m2
White level=37.0cd/m2
On-off contrast ratio=37023:1

SIMS2 D80
Black level=0.01cd/m2
White level=33.5cd/m2
On-off contrast ratio=3353:1

Optoma HD73
Black level=0.009cd/m2
White level=33.8cd/m2
On-off contrast ratio=3760:1

I would not trust their contrast ratio measurements, especially for projectors with DI, too much. All 3 projectors (Epson, Panasonic and Sony) with DI had measured contrast ratio of way over 30,000:1. These figures are way over the official manufacturers figures and also measurements by other magazines and sites.

I think it showed a few interesting observations though.

1.The DI projectors have better black level than the rest except the BenQ W10000.
2. All 3 DI projectors have similar black level. Their contrast ratio difference is due to different white levels.
3. all the projectors have white level over 30cd/m2 except the BenQ which has a white level less than a 1/3rd of the other projectors.

Your Epson projector uses IR for remote control. I am using a Harmony 885 (Asian and European equivalent to your 880) to control my Epson TW-1000 (Same as your Cinema Pro 1080). Some of the default IR codes in the Harmony may not work with your Epson, you may have to use "learn RAW" in the Harmony setup website to program some of your Epson remote IR codes into your Harmony to make it work properly. That was what I had to do. If you are still having problem, you should try call the Logitech Harmony support hotline and they will help you out.


I have tried imputting the IR codes in RAW format, still not working. A call to Logitech support was worthless, the tech kept telling me that the remote was RF, not IR.

mooneycj

I have tried imputting the IR codes in RAW format, still not working. A call to Logitech support was worthless, the tech kept telling me that the remote was RF, not IR.

mooneycj

No true at all. The remote is IR. It works for me. It's strange that Logitech support told you that. Last time I called them, they were very helpful. In fact, they taught me to use learn RAW and program in those IR codes that didn't work. The tech guy guided me through all the process and we went through testing to see if the remote would control my projector properly a few times.

Interesting about those tests.

One thing I was thinking is that although the Epson's iris is too slow to match speedy scene changes in brightness etc, perhaps they use a slower acting iris because they are counting on the time it takes for your eyes to adjust when a darker scene appears for longer. I guess I haven't compared too many scenes lately. The number of seconds it takes for the Epson's iris to clamp down seems like more time than some of the brief dark scenes that some dvd's have. Whatever the case, it sure makes the iris less noticable, but, my Hitachi TX200's iris is reasonabley fast. Takes a few seconds to go from a bright scene to a dark scene and I honestly can't say I notice it anymore.

How many of you are running grey screens with the Epson?

I am using a Firehawk G2. I think it works great with the TW-1000, especially I don't live in a bat cave :rolleyes:

I have tried imputting the IR codes in RAW format, still not working. A call to Logitech support was worthless, the tech kept telling me that the remote was RF, not IR.

mooneycj
They think you have the 890 which is RF so I'd call back and get that straight first and then they should be helpful. Hope that helps.

FULL REPORT Epson PowerLite Pro Cinema 1080 (long)

Despite my inability to get my Harmony remote to work, I still love this Epson projector. First, a little background. I'm coming from DLP (1st generation Sharp z9000) and was an early adoptor of the then "new" 720P projectors back in late 2001- early 2002. Over the years I've had several other projectors in my theater, both DLP and LCD (no LCOS or D-ILA) hoping to upgrade. Although not perfect, and certainly surpassed easily by newer technologies, I kept my Sharp. The things I appreciated about the Sharp were easy installation, good lens optics, good brightness, acceptable contrast and excellent reliability. Rainbows have never bothered me or my family. The cons with the Sharp are bland contrast (although it was excellent for 2001-2002), dithering and loss of resolution on horizontal panning ("clay face, temporal dithering" whatever you want to call it). The horizontal panning issue I've pretty much seen on every DLP system I've seen or demo'd (I've not seen the Sharp Z20000, but did see a 12000 Mk I which still had it to some degree). Despite this, I have been a pretty happy camper the past 5 years, and still have impressed many folks with my theater presentation. Until now have resisted upgradeitis. I figure I'm your typical HT enthusiast, not an addict or techie by any stretch of the imagination, but a serious enthusiast.

The new 1080 projectors have intrigued me, thinking they might be a substantial upgrade. And, I've been a more frequent viewer on the forums recently than in months past. I've read and thought about the new Sharp, Sony, the JVC and the new 1080 LCD's. I've seen the Sony Pearl but thought it was a little soft and not very bright. I've not seen the new JVC or Sharp I've had the Sony HS61 and a Panasonic AE900 briefly in my theater about 1 year ago, but neither were better all around than my Sharp DLP, and sometimes significantly worse. I've not had a 1080 projectory in my theater. Last week I discovered the Epson 1080 at my local high end, home theater/stereo retailer. This shop has been around 30+ years, is still run by the original owner and well respected in the local "high end" community. He is not a big discounter, but offers excellent service and a good selection of product. I guess what I'm saying is that he is a survivor in a highly competitive market. Anyway, they were demoing the new Epson and were heaping high praise on it's capabilities. What I saw in the showroom was inviting. In fact, this was probably the best projector demo I've seen in his room, including the Runco's, Yamaha's etc that I've seen there over the years. I was offered a home trial of the demo unit and I accepted. Because of the in-home trial, I purchased my own projector two days later from this dealer. This evaluation now comes two days after projector ownership and I'll try to give you a consumer oriented, not technical report.

SETUP:
The Epson comes packaged nicely with boxes inside of a larger box for the projector, extra bulb, remote and the ceiling mount. Instructions are complete and easy to follow, no mish mash japenglish. Installation was a snap, I drilled out the top end of the Epson mounting so it would attach to my existing Sharp mount with one bolt. I need to lower the projector down about 24" from the ceiling to get below a soffit. The Epson mount alone drops it down only a foot or so. The mount is a gimbal type design, allowing 360 degree rotation as well as tilt and angle adjustments - very nice, easy to use. Hook up was easy, I don't have HDMI yet, so just a component and S-Video was used. The s-video input by the way is excellent, no ringing, artificial sharpness or enhancement and there is no YC delay. I know s-video is archaic in terms of best video input, but it is still useable for standard def video, VCR's, camcorders etc. The remote is backlit, intuitive and easy to use, however, I've been unable to get it to work with my Harmony 880. The horizontal and vertical lens shift is terrific, the zoom has a large range. The built in pattern allows quick and easy alignment using the above controls. No keystone adjustment is provided, or needed considering the wide range of adjustments noted above.

PICTURE:
One word, WOW. This projector is so much better than my Sharp, I am impressed. I am projecting onto a Stewart Firehawk (original version) 92" diagonal screen in a light controlled room. My sources are HDTV from a Motorola DVR and a Panasonic XP30 DVD player thru a component input (switched via a reciever as there is only one component input). I also hooked up the s-video as noted above. There is plenty of brightness for my screen and the contrast and "blackness' is terrific. There is no SDE, excellent resolution and fabulous colors. No vertical banding or FPN is noted, the projector is quiet and the DI action is invisible to my eye. I've set up the projector using Video Essentials, Avia and Digital Video Essentials. I am using the natural color mode, low lamp mode and iris on mode.
PRO's:
--very bright, much brighter than the Sharp DLP even with a bulb in the Sharp that is < 200 hours. There is plenty of punch and vividness to the picture. This is the most striking difference I noted right away. My family also noted this with one of my boys stating "this looks like the plasma screen upstairs."
--excellent contrast. Hugely better than the Sharp. It reminds me of when I saw the Sony Pearl and was struck by it's excellent contrast. No, it's not black black, but equivalent to the best I've seen, CRT notwithstanding. I didn't realize what I've been missing.
--essentially no SDE, even a couple of feet away - just not an issue anymore at 1080 resolution in my opinion.
--no vertical banding or FPN, excellent uniformity. There is a little drop off of brightness in the corners, not noticeble on video material. This is not as good as my Sharp 9000, however, it is bright all the way to the corners.
--quiet in low lamp mode. The projector is right above my head, not hardly noticeable. Not as quiet as the Sony's, however. In high lamp mode it is louder, but still quieter than my Sharp. There is moderate heat that is dissipated out the front of the projector, but is directed away from the lens by baffling (nice).
--colors are terrific, a little oversaturated out of the box, but easily adjustable. No more lime greens seen with my DLP. Contrast and brightness were almost spot on out of the box (using DVE).
--lots of adjustability, the sharpness, for example allows for thin and thick black line adjustment and you can totally eliminate "ringing" and white outlines without over softening the picture. This is a huge improvement over the sharp which had "ringing" on every input. Gray scale is also adjustable by the user in a separate menu (I've not done any work in this area, however). Also, there is adaptive motion 5 step adjustability as well as film, video and auto modes. Gamma adjustment is easy, 4-5 presets and custom modes available (I use standard 2.2).
--convergence appears spot on in the center, there is a little fringing at the periphery, but this may be lens abberation. Again, not noticeable with normal viewing and much better than the prior generation of LCD's I've seen. Equivalent to my 1 chip DLP in this regard.
--no dead pixels. BTW, Epson has ZERO dead pixel guarantee. Oh yeah, and did I mention that the 3 year guarantee is for REPLACEMENT, not repair of the projector. You call and give them your special code that is on a credit type card you get, and they send you a new projector - SWEET.
--no RBE, no dithering or horizontal panning artifact. My biggest thrill is seeing no more dithering and panning artifact that was so prevalent on my Sharp. The Epson is very smooth. I was watching HDTV college basketball last night and it was stunning. The picture is very easy to watch, not tiring, almost film like in it's presentation. I am just astounded at how much better this is than my DLP. I never considered my DLP picture as overly digital and fatiguing to watch. However, in comparison to the Epson it is. The LCD technology is really better in this regard and much better than the older 720P LCD projectors I've seen. Sports in particular is going to be very nice on this projector. This is no doubt the best picture I've had in my theater.
EPSON 1080 PROJECTOR CONS:
--noisy iris. Yes, it is audible, sounds like a soft computer hard drive working. In my room, the noise is masked by normal volume program material. No one in my family has noticed or commented on this though. I think it's a non issue for me. If you turn it off, the change is contrast is noticeable but not deal killing, still is much better than I'm used to.
--vertical and horizontal lens shift are a little touchy, you adjust one, the other changes a bit. Once set, however, it is solid. Not as flimsy or touchy as I remember the Panasonic lens shift, however.
--limited inputs. I'd like to see 2 HDMI and 2 component inputs, has only one each.
--filter cleaning and lens replacment require the projector to be taken down and the ceiling mount removed. My Sharp would allow maintainence while still mounted on the ceiling.
--a little fall off of brightness near the corners, not visible with normal material. BTW, the projector is about 13 feet away from my screen, I estimate about 1/3 zoomed out. Also, I have a little vertical and horizontal adjustment applied. Therefore, I think I'm getting pretty close to maximal brightness.
--stretch mode on the projector keeps the center of the picture intact, but stretches the sides. I prefer the type of stretch on the Sharp that is more uniform. The Epson while on stretch mode looks like a weird telephoto or fish eye lens during pans - nauseating and annoying.
--cannot get my Harmony 880 to recognize the Epson's IR commands. I have a phone call into logitch level 2 support, hopefully will get this resolved soon.

I can't think of anymore comments at present. Overall, I'm extremely pleased with the upgrade. If the Panasonic and Mitsubishi 1080 LCD projectors are even near the Epson in picture quality, and my guess is that they are, then there are going to be many happy customers out there. As for the Sharp Z20000, the Optima HD81, the Sony's and JVC, I'm sure they are also excellent, probably even better in some aspects, however at higher pricing (except the Sony). I was pretty sure until last week that my next projector would be another Sharp (ie the Z20000) or perhaps the new JVC considering all the accolades it is getting. However, at the end of the day, I'm in HT heaven again and have the same level of excitement that got me on this forum about 5 years ago. Now, I will have to get a HDMI switching reciever, new upconverting or High Def DVD player etc etc etc. The madness never ends. Thanks for viewing. Hope this helps someone in the selection process.

mooneycj

Great report, thanks.

The chances of someone getting all of those projectors together at the same place, at the same time, and properly calibrated is nigh unto impossible.

About the only way that could happen if you had an individual/company that was a dealer for all of the above and ordered one of each for at least temporary stock...

I did some minor help with a dealer up in Canada about 2+1/2 years ago who attempted the type of shootout you are dreaming of. It was really interesting, but ultimately not completely as informative as you would like.... this may be a bit boring (just skip on down if you are so inclined... I will not be offended), but here are a few observations from this experience.

First you have to have a venue where you can really control the light and still have adequate seating. Now if you have the projectors side-by-side which is what everyone wants... now you have to make sure you are using exactly the same screens (or should you use the screen that would pair up the best with each individual projector? and just how many demo screens do you think you can get?) No matter which course you follow there is an "issue" with two projectors in the same room at the same time... cross-pollination of light... the light from one projector WILL affect the appearance of the other... so do you run a black cloth down the center of the room between the screens... well this really limits the number of people that would be able to see the comparison...

Second, you either have to buy all the projectors yourself or get the manufactures to donate them for the shootout. Well golly gee but ya know what.... a sizeable number of manufactures will NOT loan out their projectors for a shootout.. they will allow you to review it by itself and they cannot stop you from commenting about others you have previously seen..., but a REAL shootout...nope lots of them will not get onboard that train!

Third, okay now you have the venue, the screens, and the projectors (somehow)... now we need to be able to have the right equipment so we can distribute the same signal to each projector at the same time... oh yeah, some of these things take DVI, some M1, some HDMI... (are you getting the picture)... and do we have a source and switch to adequately deliver the images... oh did I mention assembly of those screens... some with masking some without...

Fourth what do we do about calibration...? Do we just review them with their OTB factory calibration? If not, then we need an ISF calibrator to get onboard this train (or do we need more than one)? Now then how long is it going to take to calibrate each of these projectors... and how MANY do you have?!? YIKES! Oh and did I mention that the projectors we normally all want to review are all the latest and greatest... and guess what most of the ISF guys have NEVER SEEN these things yet... can you find one or two ISF guys that are familiar with all these brand new projectors... if not how are you going to access the service menu so they can actually do a proper calibration? Because what you can wind up with even with good guys working hard late at night is this..... after hours of work on several of the projectors getting them calibrated just right... they were shut down without the settings being written down (I did tell you it was way after midnight right) and apparently when the power cords were unplugged all those hours of calibrating were GONE (someone also forgot to save them internally or the save failed after power was removed)!

So after watching this entire process unfold it was very EDUCATIONAL! However, untold hours of preparation and work were in the end not terribly productive. Due to this experience my hat is off and head bowed to any individual or group that takes on this type of a challenge. Hopefully the next group will have learned from the errors of the past, but trust me this is not a "simple" undertaking no matter how easy it sounds.

Heh Steve ... you coming up again if I have another one. I won't be doing any DIY screens. The boxes were all reopened except for one projector that we did not calibrate and that person was still in the room and the only person in the room when I left. No CSI required on that one. Oddly enough the person was trying to sell their home depot paint formula to AVS members. I guess we didnt figure on someone changing settings on the projectors while we got 2 hours sleep.

Steve there was only one company that dropped out from the shootout due to not wishing to compete against the others. That company is now not even mentioned on the forums at all. I did invite anyone with a projector that I was not a dealer for to bring it and we added it to the lineup. We did have two identical screens when looking at the projectors side to side. And when we looked at the screens we had two identical projectors the BQ8700. The guys with trained eyes picked all the differences and flaws correctly and their feedback forms were nearly identical. Seventy five percent of the people that were considering buying a projector made a decision based on what they saw on both a screen and a projector. I received over 400 emails from non attendees that said they made a decision based on the feedback given on AVS post the event. As far as ISF guys it will likely be more accurate to take the unit out of the box than to find two ISF guys that calibrate a unit the same. No offence to the ISF guys but I have also taken the training and there is definitely some that I wouldnt let touch my gear. The settings on the Epson 500 for instance out of the box was better than the post calibration. I don't do the calibration myself because there is some units that I do and don't sell and there would have been all kinds of crap about this in the threads. Times have changed. The lowest price unit isnt the easiest to financially justify any longer. This is a hot year for new stuff. If someone was looking for dancing girls at the event for entertainment we sure didnt have that ... but we did have a lot of gear to look at in a dark room with no light where they could touch it .. hear it ... look at the image it produced with their own eyes in order to make a decision. Like Steve says tho it will never be absolutely perfect. I just disagree that it has little to no value. I just don't know if I have the time to do another one. But if I do I tentatively will have the two of the large companies that sell calibration equipment,, With less choices of projectors.... and less screens.... and more other gear like different remotes... and a variety of other gear that might make it no go on and on. Heh if I could go to CES and not have to go from one hotel to another and fight through crowds in the convention halls and see it all in the same room and get out of vegas in a day I would be a happy camper.

mooneycj,

Wow, nice report. I wonder if there are more than aspect ratio mode to try. With my Hitachi there is wide and 16:9. Wide does that non-linear horizontal stretch of a 4:3 to 16:9. People are skinny in the middle and chubby near the sides :)

.

The more I read all the threads on here, the closer I am am getting to seriously chosing one of these Epson's, but I still have to wait another few days or weeks. Any suggestions for a grey screen with this projector? I am using blackout cloth and I have made my home theatre quite bat-cave like with the black flanelette so I want to minimize my black level. Is there a good low-ish gain (not over high-gain) grey screen that Epson owners might recommend for use with the 1080? Or does anybody suggest not using something other than a grey screen?

CPC said:

Wow, nice report. I wonder if there are more than aspect ratio mode to try. With my Hitachi there is wide and 16:9. Wide does that non-linear horizontal stretch of a 4:3 to 16:9. People are skinny in the middle and chubby near the sides


Yeah, there are a couple of other modes. I can't remember the exact names but I think normal gives you 4:3, full gives you 16:9, wide is the stretch mode I think, and zoom takes letterbox and makes it full 16:9 (don't quote me on those, I'm not at home right now). In terms of a screen. I've been very happy with my Stewart Firehawk for 5 years. Has great ambient light resistence, excellent contrast and I'm sure getting a nice "pop" off the screen in terms of vividness and brightness.

mooneycj

CPC said:

Wow, nice report. I wonder if there are more than aspect ratio mode to try. With my Hitachi there is wide and 16:9. Wide does that non-linear horizontal stretch of a 4:3 to 16:9. People are skinny in the middle and chubby near the sides


Yeah, there are a couple of other modes. I can't remember the exact names but I think normal gives you 4:3, full gives you 16:9, wide is the stretch mode I think, and zoom takes letterbox and makes it full 16:9 (don't quote me on those, I'm not at home right now). In terms of a screen. I've been very happy with my Stewart Firehawk for 5 years. Has great ambient light resistence, excellent contrast and I'm sure getting a nice "pop" off the screen in terms of vividness and brightness.

mooneycj

Ok, I'll keep that one on the list. I guess I'll check the specs and stuff for the different screens. I also hope to run constant image height of 50" x 89" for 16:9 and 50" x 118" for 2.37:1 :cool:

If anyone sees both the JVC RS1 and the Epson 1080 together, I would love to hear some info regarding a comparison.

If anyone sees both the JVC RS1 and the Epson 1080 together, I would love to hear some info regarding a comparison.

Yes, that will be very interesting to know! :rolleyes:

Regarding recent questions posts:
1) I have my TW1000 showing on a 106" Da-Lite HCCV screen (gray, gain of 1.1)
2) My Harmony 880 seems to work fine with it.
3) Contrast and blacks --I'm a bit of a black nut too, and I find this projector pretty satisfying in that department. Sure, it could be better, but it's getting awfully close. It's going to be hard to squeeze out that last bit of blacks and contrast in these panels. And those #'s don't accurately reflect what we're seeing. You can barely tell the difference on side by side testing when you get into this realm.

Regarding recent questions posts:
1) I have my TW1000 showing on a 106" Da-Lite HCCV screen (gray, gain of 1.1)
2) My Harmony 880 seems to work fine with it.
3) Contrast and blacks --I'm a bit of a black nut too, and I find this projector pretty satisfying in that department. Sure, it could be better, but it's getting awfully close. It's going to be hard to squeeze out that last bit of blacks and contrast in these panels. And those #'s don't accurately reflect what we're seeing. You can barely tell the difference on side by side testing when you get into this realm.

Interesting. I think the Da-Lite HCCV gray screen sounds cool. I have heard of one than a few people using that screen with other lcd and lcos projectors :) Nice low gain of 1.1 vs my blackout cloth at 0.8 to 1.0-ish :) I wonder if it's available in a 2.37:1 of 50" x 118" ...

Are you finding yourself drawn to watch more HD now that you have full blown 1080p? :)

Interesting. I think the Da-Lite HCCV gray screen sounds cool. I have heard of one than a few people using that screen with other lcd and lcos projectors :) Nice low gain of 1.1 vs my blackout cloth at 0.8 to 1.0-ish :) I wonder if it's available in a 2.37:1 of 50" x 118" ...

Are you finding yourself drawn to watch more HD now that you have full blown 1080p? :)
Call Jason or Daniel here at AVS, they helped me with my screen choice when I first got into HT 4 years ago.

I'm definitely watching more HD now. Between the 60" plasma for daytime TV and the 106" Epson 1080p for movies, it's heaven.

I am looking to mount my projector off center by 2 to 3' and at the top of the screen with the projector mounted 21' from the screen. Will this cause problems for the projector? I believe the offset should work I was just wondering would it negatively impact the picture or lumens.

Thanks

[QUOTE=jacksonian]Regarding recent questions posts:

2) My Harmony 880 seems to work fine with it.


Jacksonian:
What projector name did you type in during setup, "EMP-TW1000" or "PowerLite Pro Cinema 1080"? I can't get either to work, and I even tried manually programming in RAW format. Any tips or advice would be great.

mooneycj

I am looking to mount my projector off center by 2 to 3' and at the top of the screen with the projector mounted 21' from the screen. Will this cause problems for the projector? I believe the offset should work I was just wondering would it negatively impact the picture or lumens.

Thanks

You should have no problems and I doubt there'll be any negative impact with this set-up.

Very good writeup/review mooneycj !!!

Especially since I also still use the Sharp Z9000 and the Panny XP30. Some times I look at the image it displays and think can it get much better... Sure contrast and brightness have increased in the past few years but it hasn't tempted me till now. Blu-Ray from a PS3 and the new 1080P projectors have got me in the upgrade mode again.

The quietness is a big plus. Even in hi lamp mode is it still quieter than the Sharp?

"Epson has ZERO dead pixel guarantee" That is a big big plus for me as that is what kept me with the Sharp for all this time zero problems. No dust blobs, dead pixels or any problems other than a replacement lamp. Can you tell me where in the warranty is the "ZERO dead pixel guarantee"

"If you turn it off (auto iris), the change is contrast is noticeable but not deal killing, still is much better than I'm used to." If you are still refering to the black level compaired to the Z9000 then you may have made my decision for me!!!! :D

I still wonder if the Reon HQV chip in the Mitsubishi 5000 is worth the extra $$$ over the Epson TW1000?????? :confused:

Very good writeup/review mooneycj !!!

Especially since I also still use the Sharp Z9000 and the Panny XP30. Some times I look at the image it displays and think can it get much better... Sure contrast and brightness have increased in the past few years but it hasn't tempted me till now. Blu-Ray from a PS3 and the new 1080P projectors have got me in the upgrade mode again.

The quietness is a big plus. Even in hi lamp mode is it still quieter than the Sharp?

"Epson has ZERO dead pixel guarantee" That is a big big plus for me as that is what kept me with the Sharp for all this time zero problems. No dust blobs, dead pixels or any problems other than a replacement lamp. Can you tell me where in the warranty is the "ZERO dead pixel guarantee"

"If you turn it off (auto iris), the change is contrast is noticeable but not deal killing, still is much better than I'm used to." If you are still refering to the black level compaired to the Z9000 then you may have made my decision for me!!!! :D

I still wonder if the Reon HQV chip in the Mitsubishi 5000 is worth the extra $$$ over the Epson TW1000?????? :confused:

aye, there's the rub... the Mitsubishi has amazing sharpness and the Reon HQV, but by most accounts, it seems as though the Epson has the better black levels and contrast. Depends on what cine4home comes up with in terms of their HC5000 tweaks. For me, I already use an iScan HD+ for the vertical stretch with an anamorphic lens, so the video processor is not important... Also, I doubt the tweaks for the Mitsubishi HC5000 will make the Mits all that much better than the Epson. Although the Mitsubishi may be sharper than the Pearl, JVC and Panasonic AE1000, I'm sure the Epson is plenty sharp enough. Think it through and weigh the positive and negatives. Also, I think in north american and hk the Epson has a longer warranty, but I'm not 100% sure...

I'm definitely watching more HD now. Between the 60" plasma for daytime TV and the 106" Epson 1080p for movies, it's heaven.

Jackson,
Do you say that your 60" Plasma and Epson 1080p on 106" have equally and heavenly BRIGHT picture ?

Jackson,
Do you say that your 60" Plasma and Epson 1080p on 106" have equally and heavenly BRIGHT picture ?
No, the plasma is obviously much brighter. But the blacks in a dark room are probably a hair darker on the Epson.

[QUOTE=jacksonian]Regarding recent questions posts:

2) My Harmony 880 seems to work fine with it.


Jacksonian:
What projector name did you type in during setup, "EMP-TW1000" or "PowerLite Pro Cinema 1080"? I can't get either to work, and I even tried manually programming in RAW format. Any tips or advice would be great.

mooneycj


mooneycj,

Did eveything not worked at all with your Harmony controlling the Epson (On, off, different input buttons like hdmi, component, PC...etc, color mode, menu, contrast, gamma.....etc), or was it just a few control not working? When you said not working, do you meaning there was no response at all from the Epson, or pressing a certain key would give a wrong command?

Have you tried contacting Logitech Harmony support again? It seemed very strange that they wouldn't help you. Maybe you should try writing a email to them.

[QUOTE=mooneycj]


mooneycj,

Did eveything not worked at all with your Harmony controlling the Epson (On, off, different input buttons like hdmi, component, PC...etc, color mode, menu, contrast, gamma.....etc), or was it just a few control not working? When you said not working, do you meaning there was no response at all from the Epson, or pressing a certain key would give a wrong command?

Have you tried contacting Logitech Harmony support again? It seemed very strange that they wouldn't help you. Maybe you should try writing a email to them.


Thanks for the response. NOTHING works when I program the Epson into the Harmony remote. I can't even get the projector to turn on. I've tried all the troubleshooting online, talked to tech support, even e-mailed them. I got an e-mail response back today, it said they had "adjusted" something on my account and it should be working now but still a no go. I have the latest firmware, and the updated Harmony software. I can't figure it out. Will try Logitech tech support again later today.

mooneycj

[QUOTE=EricE]Very good writeup/review mooneycj !!!

The quietness is a big plus. Even in hi lamp mode is it still quieter than the Sharp?

"Epson has ZERO dead pixel guarantee" That is a big big plus for me as that is what kept me with the Sharp for all this time zero problems. No dust blobs, dead pixels or any problems other than a replacement lamp. Can you tell me where in the warranty is the "ZERO dead pixel guarantee"



EricE:

Yes, the Epson is quiter in the high lamp mode than the Sharp (I run the Sharp in high lamp mode all the time). I run the Epson in low lamp mode, however, since it is so bright. I don't recall the zero pixel guarantee in the warranty card specifically, however, when I talked to several dealers, inluding my own, that was made clear.

mooneycj

[QUOTE=EricE]Very good writeup/review mooneycj !!!

The quietness is a big plus. Even in hi lamp mode is it still quieter than the Sharp?

"Epson has ZERO dead pixel guarantee" That is a big big plus for me as that is what kept me with the Sharp for all this time zero problems. No dust blobs, dead pixels or any problems other than a replacement lamp. Can you tell me where in the warranty is the "ZERO dead pixel guarantee"



EricE:

Yes, the Epson is quiter in the high lamp mode than the Sharp (I run the Sharp in high lamp mode all the time). I run the Epson in low lamp mode, however, since it is so bright. I don't recall the zero pixel guarantee in the warranty card specifically, however, when I talked to several dealers, inluding my own, that was made clear.

mooneycj

A guarantee is not the same as a warranty. Usually, when a manufacturer offers a zero dead pixel guarantee, it is offered for a new projector. For a certain period of time after you buy a new projector and if you notice any dead pixel, they will replace the projector for you. So, it wouldn't be written down in the warranty. I don't think any manufacturer would offer a zero dead pixel warranty for 2 or 3 years.

After owning the TW-1000 for 1 month now, I'll give an update on my experience with it.

I usually use 2 modes only. For viewing with ambient light, I used the Dynamic mode. For viewing under light control condition, I used Theater Dark 2 mode. For playing Xbox 360 games, I would use either of these modes. Some games looked better with Dynamic, other games looked better with Theater Dark 2. I always used the low bulb setting for either mode. I haven't found the need to use high bulb mode yet.

I tried to optimize the projectors as best as I could. Since, there are no calibration discs available for either HD format yet, I had to make do with SD format AVIA and tried to modify the calibration by "eye" only for HD-DVD and Blu-ray.

The default white level is far too high for either HD-DVD or SD DVD and I have to adjust contrast to about -8. White level for Blu-ray seemed to be much lower and I didn't have to adjust the default contrast setting. Black level (Brightness) setting needed slight adjustment to +1 or +2 for all types of media to avoid too much black crush.

Color saturation and accuracy are good in my opinion.

I have no problem with either fan noise or "auto-iris" noise. Maybe I am just not too sensitive to these kind of noises.

I have no problem with brightness of the image either in Theater Dark 2 or Dynamic mode. The image were bright and punchy in either mode.

No problem with SDE or VB either of course.

I have no complaint with resolution or sharpness either. This projector is sharp and can resolve a lot of fine details with HD source material.

As for black level and contrast. I have said in a few times already. I am very happy with them. I keep the auto-iris on all the time. It's a major upgrade from D4 720p LCD projectors like the TW-600. I am using a 100" Stewart Firehawk, which of course improves black level and is good choice if you don't live in a bat cave and needs to watch TV under ambient light sometimes like me.

I went over to my neighbor's place to watch his Sharp 21000 (same as 20000 in US) again. His projection distance is about the same as mine (12 to 13 ft), but he is using a smaller screen, an 80" Stewart ST130. Resolution and sharpness wise, I couldn't see much difference between his Sharp and my Epson. Color are very similar too. The Epson is probably a bit richer in yellow and red, but that could be due to difference in preference and calibration. As for contrast and black level, the part that most people seemed to be obsessed about. I tried really hard to see if there was a big difference. I really wanted see see a big difference, but I failed to see a major difference. At most, some scene would show a bit better intrascene contrast with a bit better depth. But, I couldn't tell for sure if I was trying to "imagine" the difference or if the difference were real. After I got home, I turned on my Epson to watch the same scenes, and I didn't feel that the images I got was seriously lacking in any way. I failed to get an "upgraditis" after seeing the Sharp 21000 again.... :cool:

Has anyone taken any lumen or contrast readings on this yet, owner, reviewer or other? I’d like to know how this machine stacks up against the other projectors in its price range, and also the RS1.

I was also wondering about the product description when it says it will display in 12-bit deep color, is there any BR disks out that support this?

And has anyone verified whether it will accept 1080P/24 without judder?

After owning the TW-1000 for 1 month now, I'll give an update on my experience with it.

I usually use 2 modes only. For viewing with ambient light, I used the Dynamic mode. For viewing under light control condition, I used Theater Dark 2 mode. For playing Xbox 360 games, I would use either of these modes. Some games looked better with Dynamic, other games looked better with Theater Dark 2. I always used the low bulb setting for either mode. I haven't found the need to use high bulb mode yet.

I tried to optimize the projectors as best as I could. Since, there are no calibration discs available for either HD format yet, I had to make do with SD format AVIA and tried to modify the calibration by "eye" only for HD-DVD and Blu-ray.

The default white level is far too high for either HD-DVD or SD DVD and I have to adjust contrast to about -8. White level for Blu-ray seemed to be much lower and I didn't have to adjust the default contrast setting. Black level (Brightness) setting needed slight adjustment to +1 or +2 for all types of media to avoid too much black crush.

Color saturation and accuracy are good in my opinion.

I have no problem with either fan noise or "auto-iris" noise. Maybe I am just not too sensitive to these kind of noises.

I have no problem with brightness of the image either in Theater Dark 2 or Dynamic mode. The image were bright and punchy in either mode.

No problem with SDE or VB either of course.

I have no complaint with resolution or sharpness either. This projector is sharp and can resolve a lot of fine details with HD source material.

As for black level and contrast. I have said in a few times already. I am very happy with them. I keep the auto-iris on all the time. It's a major upgrade from D4 720p LCD projectors like the TW-600. I am using a 100" Stewart Firehawk, which of course improves black level and is good choice if you don't live in a bat cave and needs to watch TV under ambient light sometimes like me.

I went over to my neighbor's place to watch his Sharp 21000 (same as 20000 in US) again. His projection distance is about the same as mine (12 to 13 ft), but he is using a smaller screen, an 80" Stewart ST130. Resolution and sharpness wise, I couldn't see much difference between his Sharp and my Epson. Color are very similar too. The Epson is probably a bit richer in yellow and red, but that could be due to difference in preference and calibration. As for contrast and black level, the part that most people seemed to be obsessed about. I tried really hard to see if there was a big difference. I really wanted see see a big difference, but I failed to see a major difference. At most, some scene would show a bit better intrascene contrast with a bit better depth. But, I couldn't tell for sure if I was trying to "imagine" the difference or if the difference were real. After I got home, I turned on my Epson to watch the same scenes, and I didn't feel that the images I got was seriously lacking in any way. I failed to get an "upgraditis" after seeing the Sharp 21000 again.... :cool:

Any work required to get good shadow detail and/or good gamma, grey scale etc? Or are things pretty satisfying after making the few adjustments you've made already?

How is the colour uniformity doing thus far ? :cool:

Has anyone taken any lumen or contrast readings on this yet, owner, reviewer or other? I’d like to know how this machine stacks up against the other projectors in its price range, and also the RS1.

I was also wondering about the product description when it says it will display in 12-bit deep color, is there any BR disks out that support this?

And has anyone verified whether it will accept 1080P/24 without judder?
I believe cine4home's preview has some lumen measurements and they were posted and discussed in this thread just a page back or so. There are comparisons to the Mits 5000.

It will display 12-bit deep color because it has HDMI 1.3, but there is nothing encoded in that and won't be for a while. Also none of the current players except the PS3 will output 12-bit deep color. You should not base any purchase decisions on that. Remember that when you do get to that point, you'll need EVERY component in your stream to be deep color/1.3 compliant, your player, your receiver and your display.

It will display 12-bit deep color because it has HDMI 1.3, but there is nothing encoded in that and won't be for a while. Also none of the current players except the PS3 will output 12-bit deep color. You should not base any purchase decisions on that. Remember that when you do get to that point, you'll need EVERY component in your stream to be deep color/1.3 compliant, your player, your receiver and your display.

I currently use the PS3 as my Blu-Ray player and I hope to upgrade to the Denon 3808 which is HDMI 1.3. That would be 1.3 from source to projector (if I go with the Epson) but I'm still on the edge with all the hype about the JVC RS-1. Although the RS-1 is not a 1.3 projector could I still get at a minimum lossless audio or Dolby True HD if the projector is not HDMI 1.3 but the receiver is...???

HDMI 1.3 is mostly marketing hype and pretty useless right now.The video features will be useless for many years.

Blu-ray and HD-DVD have only been around for just over a year now and they are hardly widespread. Most people are still only watching DVD, some are still only watching VCD. It be years before either Blu-ray or HD-DVD become a mainstream format. Then maybe they'll start introducing the next HD format that would have 1440p resolution.

As for 30-bit, 36-bit, and 48-bit xvYCC with Deep Color, these are also pretty useless. Both Blu-ray and HD-DVD specification do not include Deep color and xvYCC color space. Unless either format decide to add Deep color and xvYCC color space to their specification, no studio will produce disc that supports Deep color and xvYCC color space.

The only HDMI 1.3 feature that may be useful soon is the audio support for HD audio format like Dolby TrueHD and DTS-HD Master Audio. Hopefully, later this year, some AV amp manufacturer will come out with new AV amp that have HDMI 1.3 input and also support decoding of Dolby TrueHD and DTS-HD Master Audio. But most people don't realize that they don't need HDMI 1.3 to enjoy Dolby TrueHD and DTS-HD Master Audio. So long as your Blu-ray or HD-DVD player can decode Dolby TrueHD and DTS-HD Master Audio, it will decode these HD audio to LinearPCM and transmit the audio stream via HDMI 1.0, 1.1 or 1.2.

Any work required to get good shadow detail and/or good gamma, grey scale etc? Or are things pretty satisfying after making the few adjustments you've made already?

How is the colour uniformity doing thus far ? :cool:

I just set standard gamma of 2.2 and brightness and contrast settings as I have mentioned before. Yes, I am pretty satisfied with the adjustment I have made so far, but I am waiting for HD-DVD version of DVE and/or AVIA2 so that I can make proper adjustment for HD-DVD and Blu-ray.

Colour uniformity is good so far. No problem at all in that area.

HDMI is mostly marketing hype and pretty useless right now.The video features will be useless for many years.
Well said. I don't see any pq improvement between component and HDMI. I use HDMI only for the less cable clutter.



The only HDMI 1.3 feature that may be useful soon is the audio support for HD audio format like Dolby TrueHD and DTS-HD Master Audio. Hopefully, later this year, some AV amp manufacturer will come out with new AV amp that have HDMI 1.3 input and also support decoding of Dolby TrueHD and DTS-HD Master Audio.
The new Denon receivers with 1.3 are slated for release in July.

But most people don't realize that they don't need HDMI 1.3 to enjoy Dolby TrueHD and DTS-HD Master Audio. So long as your Blu-ray or HD-DVD player can decode Dolby TrueHD and DTS-HD Master Audio, it will decode these HD audio to LinearPCM and transmit the audio stream via HDMI 1.0, 1.1 or 1.2.
The only problem has been with many receivers not implementing the bass management with PCM correctly. My Pioneer Elite 84TX does not boost the bass the correct 10dB, it needs a firmware update which has been tough to get. The Denons appear to do it correctly already.

Thanks Brent. Good points on HDMI. I’m running a VP-50 which is 1.1 and Marnatz 8001 which is 1.2a. I don’t really want to run out and replace these units any time real soon.

Can anyone confirm if the 1000 will accept 1080P/24?? If not, I’m afraid that will be a deal breaker for me.

The only problem has been with many receivers not implementing the bass management with PCM correctly. My Pioneer Elite 84TX does not boost the bass the correct 10dB, it needs a firmware update which has been tough to get. The Denons appear to do it correctly already.

That is exactly what I was looking at. Bass management/crossovers/time alignment. My Blu-Ray player (PS3) does not do any bass management at all so it relies on the receiver to process the 5.1 LPCM in. Other than the higher end processors, most receivers do not process the incoming 5.1 analog...

That is one of the reasons why the Epson is still in my mind even though the JVC may put out a much better picture.

That is exactly what I was looking at. Bass management/crossovers/time alignment. My Blu-Ray player (PS3) does not do any bass management at all so it relies on the receiver to process the 5.1 LPCM in. Other than the higher end processors, most receivers do not process the incoming 5.1 analog...

That is one of the reasons why the Epson is still in my mind even though the JVC may put out a much better picture.
I'm not following how the pj decision would affect your bass management/audio issues. :confused:

Can anyone confirm if the 1000 will accept 1080P/24?? If not, I’m afraid that will be a deal breaker for me.
This is one area where I'm not very knowledgeable. I have the Panny BluRay and the Toshiba A2 and I have Digital VE. How would I check this?

Thanks Brent. Good points on HDMI. I’m running a VP-50 which is 1.1 and Marnatz 8001 which is 1.2a. I don’t really want to run out and replace these units any time real soon.

Can anyone confirm if the 1000 will accept 1080P/24?? If not, I’m afraid that will be a deal breaker for me.

See post #537. I'm still waiting on Toshiba and Sony to release updated firmware before I can check if it actually works.

I'm not sure how you would try it without a VP or HTPC.

I do apologize for asking questions that have already been answered. I just can’t seam to get motivated enough to read through this entire thread.

I had not even considered this projector until yesterday, as I’ve been looking at the RS-1, Pearl and Panasonic 1000. Now I have to play catch up on this one…..especially for the price (import anyway).

Have folks chosen the Epson TW1000 to save cash vs the JVC or does anybody think the Epson is actually a better alternative than the RS1? Perhaps in at least one area or another? ..I am getting the impression that the Epson is sharp and largely issue free, with more than adequate blacks/contrast vs the RS1 so people go with the Epson because it is a better value. Does that make sense? This is my thinking at the moment.

Have folks chosen the Epson TW1000 to save cash vs the JVC or does anybody think the Epson is actually a better alternative than the RS1, perhaps in at least one area or another?
That's a tough question. It gets into performance vs. cost and a lot of other stuff. My reasoning was this. The JVC was 50% more than the Epson even with the special pre-order powerbuy ($3k vs. 4.5k). I think they will turn out to be much more alike than anyone wants to admit. At this level, there simply isn't that much more performance to squeek out. People are having to make a huge deal about tiny differences to justify their purchases. And the JVC is currently getting ripped to shreds in the owner's thread, just as we knew it would. They all have their strengths, weaknesses, flaws, etc...

I just prefer to stay in the $3k or less range and maybe stay a year behind the curve of the bleeding edge. That way I get to upgrade more often.

I would bet if you're a "videophile" you'll say there's a big difference between the two. But if you're an enthusiast like me, any one of the "common man" 1080p machines like the Epson, Mits, Panny, or Pearl will do you just fine. JMHO.

I'm not sure how you would try it without a VP or HTPC.

I do apologize for asking questions that have already been answered. I just can’t seam to get motivated enough to read through this entire thread.

I had not even considered this projector until yesterday, as I’ve been looking at the RS-1, Pearl and Panasonic 1000. Now I have to play catch up on this one…..especially for the price (import anyway).

Nothing to apologize about - I spent an unhealthy amount of time on this thread, just glad I was actually able to remember something and help out. I only referenced the post because of the picture link.

Both the PS3 and Toshiba XA2 are expected to be able to output 1080/24p with firmware upgrades. Just a matter of when...

I'm not following how the pj decision would affect your bass management/audio issues. :confused:


Wouldn't a non HDMI 1.3 projector such as the JVC :D not alow the receiver to process TrueHD or DTS-HD....????

I was under the impression that the HDMI chain is only valid to the lowest version ie. even though I have a 1.3 PS3 and a 1.3 Denon receiver if the projector is only 1.2 the receiver would not allow processing of TrueHD or DTS-HD. If I am mistaken please forgive me....

Wouldn't a non HDMI 1.3 projector such as the JVC :D not alow the receiver to process TrueHD or DTS-HD....????

I was under the impression that the HDMI chain is only valid to the lowest version ie. even though I have a 1.3 PS3 and a 1.3 Denon receiver if the projector is only 1.2 the receiver would not allow processing of TrueHD or DTS-HD. If I am mistaken please forgive me....
For audio, all you'll be doing is sending the soundtrack from the PS3 to the Denon via HDMI bitstream and allowing the Denon to decode the soundtrack.

The big deal about the receivers being 1.3 is that they'll be able to process the track rather than the player having to decode it and pass it via PCM.

So, to my knowledge and understanding, you don't need the display device to be 1.3 to get the audio benefits, but you do need every device in the chain to be 1.3 to get the video benefits of deep color.

Now, someone correct ME if I'm wrong on this. :D

HDMI 1.3 is mostly marketing hype and pretty useless right now.The video features will be useless for many years.

Blu-ray and HD-DVD have only been around for just over a year now and they are hardly widespread. Most people are still only watching DVD, some are still only watching VCD. It be years before either Blu-ray or HD-DVD become a mainstream format. Then maybe they'll start introducing the next HD format that would have 1440p resolution.

As for 30-bit, 36-bit, and 48-bit xvYCC with Deep Color, these are also pretty useless. Both Blu-ray and HD-DVD specification do not include Deep color and xvYCC color space. Unless either format decide to add Deep color and xvYCC color space to their specification, no studio will produce disc that supports Deep color and xvYCC color space.

The only HDMI 1.3 feature that may be useful soon is the audio support for HD audio format like Dolby TrueHD and DTS-HD Master Audio. Hopefully, later this year, some AV amp manufacturer will come out with new AV amp that have HDMI 1.3 input and also support decoding of Dolby TrueHD and DTS-HD Master Audio. But most people don't realize that they don't need HDMI 1.3 to enjoy Dolby TrueHD and DTS-HD Master Audio. So long as your Blu-ray or HD-DVD player can decode Dolby TrueHD and DTS-HD Master Audio, it will decode these HD audio to LinearPCM and transmit the audio stream via HDMI 1.0, 1.1 or 1.2.
Roland, this is one of the best single posts I have seen on AVS Forum. In fact, a sticky link to it should be in every audio and video forum section, just to counter the constant hype over HDMI 1.3, in my opinion. (The only flaw is that your post does not specify you are referring to HDMI 1.3, in the first sentence.)

I don't imagine the Epson does the vertical stretch, does it? Not that it matters much, since an outboard video processor is good for de-interlacing anyhow, but I just wondered. The HDMI 1.3 is actually a slight potential benefit over the JVC, but as noted previously, it's not much use now and won't be much use in the future. Projectors are the king of making a combined video/audio cable useless. It's not like a flat-screen TV which can make use of a nice simple single hdmi connection for both audio and video, and even there, how many people are using the TV speakers vs a surround system?

I wouldn't say the JVC is getting "ripped to shreds" ..but it is definitely being knocked down a few pegs when you consider how incredible it was supposed to be. I am sure it is still pretty amazing and it is still considered better than the Pearl in some cases, although some say not by much, and others say it's the other way around .When the dust settles, the JVC will probably still be on top with contrast and black levels, but it may not be viewed as a hugely cost effective choice in terms of value for your money. All these projectors will likely come down in price a little bit over the next few months, although real basement prices won't appear until the next projectors get announced. I don't think there is a new D-ILA chip or D6 lcd panel in the works though :p

I wonder if the Pearl is a good projector to compare the Epson to since the prices are probably going to be more comparable sooner than the Epson and JVC will be.

As always, it would be nice to have a big fat shootout between all the 1080 lcd and lcos projectors :cool:

UPDATE:

Got my Harmony 880 remote to work with the EPSON. I had to delete all the old activities and equipment individually, then re-enter everything. Now it's working great.

mooneycj

Roland, this is one of the best single posts I have seen on AVS Forum. In fact, a sticky link to it should be in every audio and video forum section, just to counter the constant hype over HDMI 1.3, in my opinion. (The only flaw is that your post does not specify you are referring to HDMI 1.3, in the first sentence.)

Thanks! I have corrected the original post and added 1.3 in the begining of the post.

We have this Epson with 1.3 version of HDMI.

My question:
Is there any Receiver with 1.3 version of HDMI (inputs and outputs) available in the market NOW, to work in par with this Epson?

We have this Epson with 1.3 version of HDMI.

My question:
Is there any Receiver with 1.3 version of HDMI (inputs and outputs) available in the market NOW, to work in par with this Epson?

As far as I know, there isn't any AV amp available now that has support for hdmi1.3. There should be some availbale later this year, but right now, there is none.

As I have said in my previous post, although hdmi 1.3 would be useful as far as HD audio is concerned, you probably wouldn't need hdmi1.3 for video for a long time.

Too bad, I have to wait another 10 months or so, to upgrade my 2 years old Onkyo receiver. :(

Well, after re-installing the Epson with component video it seems that the PJ is performing better than ever.

Good to be back....

We have this Epson with 1.3 version of HDMI.

My question:
Is there any Receiver with 1.3 version of HDMI (inputs and outputs) available in the market NOW, to work in par with this Epson?
The 1.3 chips aren't available to the receiver manufacturers until this spring, so there are none NOW. The new Denons with 1.3 will be out in July, 4 months away.

The 1.3 chips aren't available to the receiver manufacturers until this spring, so there are none NOW. The new Denons with 1.3 will be out in July, 4 months away.

Thanks Jackson,
I can wait for four months.
Actually I am looking for Sony, their new generation of AV Receivers are highly rated.

Well, after re-installing the Epson with component video it seems that the PJ is performing better than ever.

Good to be back....

Good to have you back

Thanks Jackson,
I can wait for four months.
Actually I am looking for Sony, their new generation of AV Receivers are highly rated.
Well, seeing as this new round of A/V receivers will probably be the biggest change in several years, offering decoding of the new formats, I would try to hold off if you can.

Thanks Jackson,
I can wait for four months.
Actually I am looking for Sony, their new generation of AV Receivers are highly rated.

Please see the HDMI Q&A topic (thread about upcoming HDMI 1.3 products) for more details, but a.f.a.i.k. the following HDMI 1.3 receivers are on their way:
- Denon 4308ci and 3808ci in July
- Sherwood Newcastle R-972 and R-872 in "August-ish"
- Denon 2808 (and the switching-only 1708 and 1508) in September
- Sony DA9100-ES in 2007?
- Onkyo (prototype) in ???

The Denon AVR-4308ci is the only one (known) with 2 HDMI outputs :) ($ 2.499).

Please see the HDMI Q&A topic (thread about upcoming HDMI 1.3 products) for more details, but a.f.a.i.k. the following HDMI 1.3 receivers are on their way:
- Denon 4308ci and 3808ci in July
- Sherwood Newcastle R-972 and R-872 in "August-ish"
- Denon 2808 (and the switching-only 1708 and 1508) in September
- Sony DA9100-ES in 2007?
- Onkyo (prototype) in ???

The Denon AVR-4308ci is the only one (known) with 2 HDMI outputs :) ($ 2.499).

That is very very . . .very Interesting and fun to watch.

I think the battles will be three ways: Denon, Onkyo and Sony.

My wish: 4 or 5 HDMI inputs and 2 Outputs, 1.3 version of course! :rolleyes:

Don't forget that Pioneer will probably jump in there at CEDIA in August. If they keep up their pace of staying ahead of everyone else on inputs, they'll have those 5 HDMI in and probably 2 out.

I'd love the 2 outs on the 4308, but I'm not willing to pay $1000 more than the 3808 for them.

I’ve been talking to the more known internet Epson dealers (links to right). They will not budge from the MSRP on the Pro 1080. They are also telling me that unless I buy this from an “authorized” dealer, I will not get warranty support.

Knowing that some of you have already imported the import version of the 1080, and also knowing that vendors don’t always tell the whole story, what type of warranty support can I expect if I were to buy one of these from the importers mentioned in this thread?

Superfly 77, Price Japan and Hivizone all tell me that I will get a two year “international” warranty and can send this to Epson Service USA. Is this true?? I have not every imported anything and am just a wee bit nervous.

I’ve been talking to the more known internet Epson dealers (links to right). They will not budge from the MSRP on the Pro 1080. They are also telling me that unless I buy this from an “authorized” dealer, I will not get warranty support.

Knowing that some of you have already imported the import version of the 1080, and also knowing that vendors don’t always tell the whole story, what type of warranty support can I expect if I were to buy one of these from the importers mentioned in this thread?

Superfly 77, Price Japan and Hivizone all tell me that I will get a two year “international” warranty and can send this to Epson Service USA. Is this true?? I have not every imported anything and am just a wee bit nervous.

Superfly 77 and Hivizone = international warranty
Price Japan = no international warranty - will have to send projector to Japan for service

There must be an agreement to honor the international warranty in each of the countries listed otherwise it could not work, and so far, iirc, it appears that people have verified the warranty in Canada, the USA, Australia (?) and I think in the UK. Again, there must have been some communication between the various parties, and ultimately an agreement in order for this to exist and for us to have heard that it is in fact honored in the countries listed. The issuer of this international warranty could not have spontaneously created the warranty conditions in isolation. Whether the Epson entity in your country must honor this warranty indefinitely or whether they may change their mind or what, who knows. I would imagine since it is in effect now, it will remain as such until we hear otherwise.

UPDATE:

Got my Harmony 880 remote to work with the EPSON. I had to delete all the old activities and equipment individually, then re-enter everything. Now it's working great.

mooneycj


Glad it worked out for you...that is really wierd behavior. I have an 880 running my system that includes about 13 devices and 20 Activities and I have had no problem....I use the EMP-tw700, but expect commensurate behavior to you...

I’ve been talking to the more known internet Epson dealers (links to right). They will not budge from the MSRP on the Pro 1080. They are also telling me that unless I buy this from an “authorized” dealer, I will not get warranty support.

Knowing that some of you have already imported the import version of the 1080, and also knowing that vendors don’t always tell the whole story, what type of warranty support can I expect if I were to buy one of these from the importers mentioned in this thread?

Superfly 77, Price Japan and Hivizone all tell me that I will get a two year “international” warranty and can send this to Epson Service USA. Is this true?? I have not every imported anything and am just a wee bit nervous.

The Epson TW1000s from Hivizone and Superfly are got from Epson Hong Kong. It is true that the units come with international warranty as there is a booklet about international warranty included with the projector. The booklet clearly states all the countries from which you can get service support from Epson LOCALLY.

The Epson TW1000s from Hivizone and Superfly are got from Epson Hong Kong. It is true that the units come with international warranty as there is a booklet about international warranty included with the projector. The booklet clearly states all the countries from which you can get service support from Epson LOCALLY.
May I ask: Is Germany listed? Thanks!

May I ask: Is Germany listed? Thanks!

The list was posted in message 862 by rolandlim as follows:

Austria, Belgium, Bulgaria, Croatia, Cyprus, Czech Republic, Denmark, Finland, France, Germany, Greece, Hungry, Ireland, Italy, Luxembourg, Macedonia, Netherlands, Norway, Poland, Portugal, Romania, Slovakia, Slovenia, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland, Turkey, United Kingdom, Yugsolavia

Canada, Costa Rica, Mexico, USA

Argentina, Brazil, Chile, Columbia, Peru, Venezuela

Australia, China, Hong Kong, japan, South Korea, Malaysia, Singapore, taiwan, Thailand

For audio, all you'll be doing is sending the soundtrack from the PS3 to the Denon via HDMI bitstream and allowing the Denon to decode the soundtrack.

The big deal about the receivers being 1.3 is that they'll be able to process the track rather than the player having to decode it and pass it via PCM.

So, to my knowledge and understanding, you don't need the display device to be 1.3 to get the audio benefits, but you do need every device in the chain to be 1.3 to get the video benefits of deep color.

Now, someone correct ME if I'm wrong on this. :D

You are correct. The PJ has nothing to do with the audio path. Actually at this point in time the Dolby TrueHD and DTS-HD Master Audio specs require the decoding to be done in the player (not the receiver). The decoded stream is then sent via LPCM to the processor(receiver), and in this scenario any HDMI 1.1 or 1.2 or 1.3 receiver that can accept multiple pcm AND handles the required LFE boost will work. . Unles the new audio specs change there is actually no reason to have 1.3 in a receiver, but it certainly is a marketing bonanza and will sell lots of receivers. By the time (if ever) deep color is actually implemented such that the HDMI 1.3 in a PJ is actually useful, the TW1000 will have long been gone in most home theaters. Below is the "why you don't need HDMI 1.3" from the receiver forum

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=789994

There are other compelling reasons for buying the TW1000, but HDMI 1.3 in the TW1000 is not one of them. You will never use it...

May I ask: Is Germany listed? Thanks!

Yes, Germany is one of the countries who provide the international warranty.

How noisy is this projector. I have to mount it directly above my head about three feet. The specs on projector central say the 1080 is 26 db on econ mode and 33 db on high.

Now I'm just going off what I have now (Panny 900) and it's rated at 25 on low. No rating for high but regardless of that, high is simply too loud for me to use and on low, it's barely acceptable.

I am wondering what you owners think. Is this TW 1000 noisy? The specs, if acurate, would indicate that it's more than a whisper.

I don't think anyone can answer this for you. If you're that sensitive, I would recommend the Mits 5000, it's the only one that's silent.

I wouldn't say I'm 'sensitive'. It's just that the projector is literally, 36" from my head. Wouldn’t you be a bit apprehensive if you had the same situation?

I asked because I got the information from projector central on all the projectors I’m looking at. But, I’ve read several times on these AVS boards that PC is not always accurate. So keeping that in mind, there could very well be X panny 900 owners with shiny new Epsons that could tell me how the Epson stacks up to the 900.

The Mitsubishi is the quietest per spec and other reviews. However, it didn’t make my “short list” for other reasons. One in particular is limited horizontal lens shift. Same with the Sony Pearl, limited horizontal lens shift.

So now it’s just down to the Epson, the Panny 1000U and the JVC. The JVC is more than I was wanting to spend though……so at the end of the day, I’m probably going home with the Epson or the 1000U.

How noisy is this projector. I have to mount it directly above my head about three feet. The specs on projector central say the 1080 is 26 db on econ mode and 33 db on high.

Now I'm just going off what I have now (Panny 900) and it's rated at 25 on low. No rating for high but regardless of that, high is simply too loud for me to use and on low, it's barely acceptable.

I am wondering what you owners think. Is this TW 1000 noisy? The specs, if acurate, would indicate that it's more than a whisper.



I have mine about 3 feet above my head. I would say it is one of the quieter projectors I've had in my room. At low lamp setting, I hear it slightly, and can hear the DI working just barely (sounds like a soft hard disc drive reading/writing). On high lamp mode, it is louder, but is still much quieter than my Sharp Z9000 that it replaced. For me it is a non-issue.

mooneycj

I have the EMP-tw700. I doubt it is much different in noise than the tw1000, but Jacksonian will tell you because he had them both side by side at one time. I do notice the higher fan mode, mostly on quieter movie scenes. But, I really use a lower lamp mode so for movies it is not an issue. For sports, it tends to not be an issue because while i use the higher lamp mode and have more fan noise, the bcast is louder also. Where it bothers me the most is when I decide I want a higher lamp mode for broadcast TV (and thus, fan noise) and the scene has low volume (say a LOST episode or something).....then it is annoying.

Net is, I think you are a small bit closer than I am to the pj and I definitely agree with Jacksonian in that if you are concerned with fan noise you should look very hard at the Mitsu

I said sensitive because you said the Panasonic was barely acceptable in low lamp mode. That's fairly sensitive. I came from a Panny 500 and I find the Epson quieter in each mode than the Panny in its respective modes. But I know one of the other guys disagreed about the TW700 (which is the same volume as the TW1000).

I just think it's going to be hard for you to take someone else's word on something that's so subjective.

Edit: Mine is about 4 feet directly above my head. I don't even notice the fan in low lamp mode, and like Dave said, high lamp fan mode is fine for ballgames and such. I notice the auto iris noise much more than the fan.

madchi: the warrnty is wallid in germany, i just checked with them:
Vielen Dank für Ihre Mail vom 14. März 2007.


Dieses Gerät hat -gemäß der Garantiebedingungen- auch in Deutschland eine Garantie. Entscheidend ist natürlich das Kaufdatum und das Vorhandensein eines Kaufbeleges mit Datum.

Mit freundlichen Grüßen,



Boris Creischer

e-Service Support Agent

EPSON Customer Inter@ction Centre

Jacksonian: would you still say the TW1000 is worth the money, compared to TW700? I can get the TW700 for 1.8 USD with 3 year warranty here, the TW1000 from HiviZone would cost me at about double that(with shipping and VAT, at least LCD projectors look to be tax free in EU)

Jacksonian: would you still say the TW1000 is worth the money, compared to TW700? I can get the TW700 for 1.8 USD with 3 year warranty here, the TW1000 from HiviZone would cost me at about double that
That's a very subjective question. Do you have a projector now?

Is the picture from the TW1000 twice as good as that of the TW700? No way. You get a much better value with the TW700. But I already had a 720p pj and was looking to correct poor blacks and contrast.

I would say MOST people would be much better off buying the TW700, especially if you're new to projectors and also if you are going to use it in more of a family room situation with lights on.

But if you're a videophile nit picker looking for small improvements in blacks (like me) or you're really bothered by SDE (like Brian), then you'll think that extra money is worth it for the TW1000.

But that's a real subjective judgment call. Kind of like asking is my Lexus worth double my Honda. Some will say absolutely, while others will say no way.

BTW, after reading Art's review of the JVC, I can't help but want to see how beautiful the blacks are on it. But I'm trying to fight the urge since taking a loss selling my TW1000 and getting the JVC would cost me another $3k or so for the upgrade. But he sure did make the blacks sound really attractive. See, there goes that "worth it" equation again! :)

oh dear, I smell 'upgraditis'
:p

BTW, after reading Art's review of the JVC, I can't help but want to see how beautiful the blacks are on it. But I'm trying to fight the urge since taking a loss selling my TW1000 and getting the JVC would cost me another $3k or so for the upgrade. But he sure did make the blacks sound really attractive. See, there goes that "worth it" equation again! :)

FWIW, Roland's comparison to the Sharp 21000 a few pages back, put an end to my thoughts of upgrading in the near future.

oh dear, I smell 'upgraditis'
:p
I'm going to try hard to resist it (because I know better) :D , but it's Art's fault for going on and on about my biggest pq issue, and I LOVE oversaturated images (about the only thing the JVC club is complaining about).

BTW, after reading Art's review of the JVC, I can't help but want to see how beautiful the blacks are on it. But I'm trying to fight the urge since taking a loss selling my TW1000 and getting the JVC would cost me another $3k or so for the upgrade. But he sure did make the blacks sound really attractive. See, there goes that "worth it" equation again! :)

Hey jacksonian - I can help (feed) your "urge". Why don't you sell that mediocre TW1000 to me and get the PJ you really want (RS1, RS1, RS1) - you can drop it off anytime - I'm in Fuquay Varina, NC :D

Jacksonian:i have a 720p pj now(Hitachi TX100) for little bit over 2 years and i had a SVGA pj(Sanyo PLV-30)before for almost 4 years. It is almost laughable, that i would get full HD LCOS JVS(when i consider the ********** price tag) today for what a SVGA cost me then(and affter 4 years it was worth almost nothing). But now i am not willing to spend so much for a pj.. never ever. HiviZones TW1000 price is at about maximum i can justify to me self to spend on a pj. What for me speaks against the TW700 is that exept contrast and blacks i see not much advantages over the TX100(looks good with bright outdoor scenes but pretty flat with dark ones, worst exaple : Alien:Ressurection... flat picture without deep and loses much detail in FX shots). I have pretty good light control(even dark brown walls...but some lighter furniture too.. perfect it isnt) and SDE bothers me, as i am a person that sits in row 2(at 2.35 format) or 3(at 1.85) in a Cinema...and i am pretty nitpicking(i write dvd reviews for 8 years and train myself to see every artefact miles away)

I am getting closer to pulling the trigger every day. I'd like to see an Epson TW1000 in person, in my own room really. If I don't see a decent improvement in black levels and contrast I'll be disappointed. Of course, I'll console myself with the 1080p resolution, lack of screen door, hopefully better colour uniformity and hopefully fewer dust blobs....and proceed to upgrade or change my screen in an attempt to improve blacks and contrast more, since, by then, there will be no going back... :p

I'm going to try hard to resist it (because I know better) :D , but it's Art's fault for going on and on about my biggest pq issue, and I LOVE oversaturated images (about the only thing the JVC club is complaining about).

I know exactly what you mean....I like those saturated vibrant colors too.

As you know, for some time I've been eying several 1080p's, ever since you got the TW1000 actually :p . I sold my Epson 810 a short time ago to a close friend since the opportunity presented itself and he's ultra happy with it. I do miss the 810 sometimes, but I got a Mits HD1000U to tide me over until I decide on what 1080p to go with. Do I really need to upgrade to 1080p? No absolutely not, Art made me do it (heh), and well these forums don't help either. Bah just upgraditis really.

The Mits really surprises me tho. For it's dirt cheap price, it's a fantastic machine and it's really bright. I have no hangups for DLP/LCD/LCOS. That's my biggest gripe with the 1080p's so far, none of them have that brightness punch. I suppose that's ok if you'll only watch movies in a dark room theater on a smaller screen. But what if you want to watch a game with some lights on with people over or have a 120" screen ?.

Then there's the RS1 and all it's native contrast and black levels. Will we notice such a huge difference or be able to appreciate it in anything but a batcave? I dunno. Lots to think about.

Hey jacksonian - I can help (feed) your "urge". Why don't you sell that mediocre TW1000 to me and get the PJ you really want (RS1, RS1, RS1) - you can drop it off anytime - I'm in Fuquay Varina, NC :D
Hmm, you forgot the diabolical laughter. :D I'll shoot you a PM if you're seriously interested. You're not far away at all.

The Mits really surprises me tho. For it's dirt cheap price, it's a fantastic machine and it's really bright. I have no hangups for DLP/LCD/LCOS. That's my biggest gripe with the 1080p's so far, none of them have that brightness punch. I suppose that's ok if you'll only watch movies in a dark room theater on a smaller screen. But what if you want to watch a game with some lights on with people over or have a 120" screen ?.

Then there's the RS1 and all it's native contrast and black levels. Will we notice such a huge difference or be able to appreciate it in anything but a batcave? I dunno. Lots to think about.
Yup, lots to consider. My room's not a bat cave by any means. I have dark brown walls, but a white ceiling. I *might* be able to get my wife to agree to a warm tone to the ceiling, but she's not going to accept black, not in a million years (and honestly, I wouldn't either). I would hope I could tell a difference in the blacks, heck, Art said he could see a big difference and he has white walls.

Is the user manual downloadable somewhere or is there at least some image showing the places of the mounting holes and feet?

Would like to hear more comparisons between the JVC RS1 and the Epson 1080.

Is the user manual downloadable somewhere or is there at least some image showing the places of the mounting holes and feet?

It've been discussed in this thread few pages back. check it.

Is the user manual downloadable somewhere or is there at least some image showing the places of the mounting holes and feet?

This post (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=9865001&&#post9865001) by rolland should answer your question.

link to manual (http://www.projectorcentral.com/pdf/projector_manual_3535.pdf)

That little 'search this thread' button is your friend :)

This post (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=9865001&&#post9865001) by rolland should answer your question.

link to manual (http://www.projectorcentral.com/pdf/projector_manual_3535.pdf)

That little 'search this thread' button is your friend :)Thanks. I tried googling first but came up empty. Should've remembered the search. :rolleyes:

Thanks. I tried googling first but came up empty. Should've remembered the search. :rolleyes:
I think what Joe was saying was that the "search this thread" is more useful than the global search feature here on AVS. At least I find it to be.

I think what Joe was saying was that the "search this thread" is more useful than the global search feature here on AVS. At least I find it to be.

Exactly what I was trying to say. :) It's a very useful tool
No big deal really, as long as JaniH found the info he was looking for I suppose that's what matters.

Would like to hear more comparisons between the JVC RS1 and the Epson 1080.

Yes, we are waiting for this direct comparison, very interesting! Anyone out there???

Yes, we are waiting for this direct comparison, very interesting! Anyone out there???
Will be interesting to see if Art ends up having both on hand at the same time in his theater for review. Otherwise, I don't know anyone with both. I checked at the JVC is still on national backorder.

I think what Joe was saying was that the "search this thread" is more useful than the global search feature here on AVS. At least I find it to be.Yeah, I know. I'm not a newbie with forums, just seem to have some momentarely memory problems. ;) Ok, enough with that and back to the topic: I'll be following briandx's footsteps and swapping my (fourth) Mitsu HC5000 to the Epson. Let's hope I have better luck with the Epson.

enough with that and back to the topic: I'll be following briandx's footsteps and swapping my (fourth) Mitsu HC5000 to the Epson. Let's hope I have better luck with the Epson.

Are you serious? Swapping that Mitsu with Epsy?

If yes, That is a big discovery!

What make you do that bold decision? Tell us please!

What make you do that bold decision? Tell us please!Well, I've been quite unfortunate with the Mitsu as I'm on my fourth unit. And this fourth unit has a quite serious dust blob problem so I'd have to send it for cleaning, manufacturer didn't want to replace it. And since I've had dust issues also in almost all my previous units, I just can't see the Mitsu as a reliable long term solution for me (and my very poor luck). So I'll have to try something else, and the Epson is the best/only option in the same price range here. Plus it has a very good warranty here (3 years and 1700h/3years for the lamp).

I don't want to dismiss the Mitsubishi too badly, it throws a great picture and is nicely quiet, but they better get the QC under control.

Yup, lots to consider. My room's not a bat cave by any means. I have dark brown walls, but a white ceiling. I *might* be able to get my wife to agree to a warm tone to the ceiling, but she's not going to accept black, not in a million years (and honestly, I wouldn't either). I would hope I could tell a difference in the blacks, heck, Art said he could see a big difference and he has white walls. You could try neutral grey. There was, I believe an article in the "Perfect Vision" about neutral grey being used in their testing facility. Your wife might not find it an unpleasant option.

Roland: You have been very thoughtful on this thread. Could you tell me if the user menu is in English? P.J. on their web site, reads that the ones being sold in Japan have Japanese menus. Have you thought about stacking this projector for 4k resolution? Do you think it's theisable?

Roland: You have been very thoughtful on this thread. Could you tell me if the user menu is in English? P.J. on their web site, reads that the ones being sold in Japan have Japanese menus. Have you thought about stacking this projector for 4k resolution? Do you think it's theisable?

The user menu has multiple language selection including Japanese, English, French, German, Italian, Spanish, Portugese, Chinese, Korean, Dutch, Danish, Polish, Magyar, Cesky, Norsk, Svenska, Suomi, Turkush and a few Eastern European languages that I cannot identify. The Japanese version probably have the menu language setting default as Japanese, but I am sure you can set it to English yourself.

I think it is certainly feasible to stack 2 TW-1000. But if my understanding of stacking is correct, it is used to increase image brightness. If you stack 2 projectors, you will double the image brightness, if you stack 3, then you will triple the brightness. The resolution remains the same. I don't see how you can get 4M (I assume you meant 4M rather than 4k) by stacking. Even if you can get 4M resolution, there is no source material available that has 4M resolution anyway, so it would be pretty useless.

Roland: You have been very thoughtful on this thread. Could you tell me if the user menu is in English? P.J. on their web site, reads that the ones being sold in Japan have Japanese menus. Have you thought about stacking this projector for 4k resolution? Do you think it's theisable?

Which PJ's are you asking about? The ones from Japan or the ones from Hong Kong? I am not sure that stacking would get better resolution. Better brightness for sure though. Honestly, the resolution on these is SO good that I can't imagine wanting better resolution. You nearly need to have your nose on the screen before you see pixel structure/screen door.
S

raneil,
Japanese versions come set to default Japanese, but is easily changed to English. The remote is completely English, no other language characters on it.

Stacking would only help brightness as Roland said, won't help resolution. And I think the odds of getting them perfectly converged would be slim and none.

JaniH,
How does the JVC compare price wise to the Epson in your country? Over here, the MSRP on the two is almost equal with the JVC having a lower street than the Epson US version.

JaniH,
How does the JVC compare price wise to the Epson in your country? Over here, the MSRP on the two is almost equal with the JVC having a lower street than the Epson US version.

JaniH,
How does the JVC compare price wise to the Epson in your country?JVC costs almost double what the Epson costs. Here the new 1080p projectors come in 3-4 price classes:

Cheapest: Epson and Mitsubishi
Medium price class: Panasonic and Sony Pearl
Little higher than the previous: Optoma HD81
The most expensive: JVC

HD81 and JVC are both ~6500€ over here in Finland, I thought.

Question to double stacking of Epson TW1000:

1. Is this really work, or have any one done this? (general question to all one gun projector). Or see this in real life?

2. The brightness is double, well easy to understand. How about picture sharpness, color acuracy, black level etc, with that getting better, worst or the same? I can imagine some blurr picture at the edge around due to shifting of picture position accuracy!

3. How is it stacked? One on top of the other or side by side, I will be surpriced that side by side is the answer like Art do with his 2 G90s. I remember Runco stacked 2 CRTs on top each other some 10 years ago.

Thanks

JVC costs almost double what the Epson costs. Here the new 1080p projectors come in 3-4 price classes:

Cheapest: Epson and Mitsubishi
Medium price class: Panasonic and Sony Pearl
Little higher than the previous: Optoma HD81
The most expensive: JVC

In Hong Kong, the cheapest are Epson TW-1000 and Panasonic PT-AE1000, they are the same price. Next up in price is the Mit HC5000, then the Pearl, then the JVC, then the Sharp 21000. For some unknown reason, Optoma HD81 is the most expensive

Question to double stacking of Epson TW1000:

1. Is this really work, or have any one done this? (general question to all one gun projector). Or see this in real life?

2. The brightness is double, well easy to understand. How about picture sharpness, color acuracy, black level etc, with that getting better, worst or the same? I can imagine some blurr picture at the edge around due to shifting of picture position accuracy!

3. How is it stacked? One on top of the other or side by side, I will be surpriced that side by side is the answer like Art do with his 2 G90s. I remember Runco stacked 2 CRTs on top each other some 10 years ago.

Thanks

1. Theoretically, it should work. Although I doubt if anyone would choose to stack the TW-1000

2. picture sharpness may not be as good depending on how well you can overlap the 2 images. So long as both projectors are tuned with exactly the same color, color accuracy should be fine. Unfortunately, black level would double just like white level.

3. I think projectors are usually stacked one on top of the other. However, there's no reason why you can't stack them sideways since the TW-1000 have a proetty good range of lateral lens shift

HD81 and JVC are both ~6500€ over here in Finland, I thought.The list is based on street pricing. Optoma is available well under it's MSRP, whereas JVC doesn't have too much discounting. The latter is my understanding, please correct if I'm wrong.

Optoma is available well under it's MSRP, whereas JVC doesn't have too much discounting.
Very likely because JVC is brand new, and HD81 has been around for a while.

Very likely because JVC is brand new, and HD81 has been around for a while.I remember seeing the Optoma being discounted right after it's launch. But does it really matter, because pricing currently is what it is, for whatever the reasons. :)

I've read 90% of this thread but can the guys running the tw-1000 on large screens(120"+) chime in one more time on sde and brightness.

My screen is a 133"(diagonal) dalite hp. First row's about 14.5' back from the screen so sde is concern. SDE's quite noticeable with my Sanyo plv-60 lcd clone from the first row.

I will be mounting the projector in the rear wall low enough to optimize the hp's gain but that will also make the throw around 23'. With the pj about 12" above my head I'm hoping to get a gain factor of around 2.2-2.5. My room is fully light controlled w/dark walls, ceiling, and no windows.

I'm on the RS1 prebuy but continuing delivery delays, limited calibration options, and a few other things are compelling me to re-explore the other options that are available...the imported pricing on the Epson doesn't hurt either. ;)

Thanks,
Ken

Anyone done an ISF calibration on one of these yet? I'm still adjusting my PowerLite 1080. Colors are pretty much spot on (cinema night or natural color mode). Contrtast is way too hot, however. I'm about -10 for the contrast at most settings. I love NCAA basketball on this thing. It's like watching a plasma.

mooneycj

hi all,

as promised I post a comparison of the audiovision review in comparison with previous tested projectors.
Reviews have to be taken very sceptical. IMHO you never can be sceptic enough on any opinion.

Having said that it is still nice to see how the TW1000 (aka ProCinema 1080) is perceived by a german magazine that reviews home cinema equipment for 10 years now.

http://www.jo-1.de/ablage/prijectors.jpg
Interesting, I would say - ordered the projector immediately - this was the last missing proof for my decision.

jo-1

THe contrast numbers are so far off in that diagram when compared to measurements from respected reviewers and forum members, that I wouldn't decide based on that diagram alone.

That said, the TW1000 sounds to be an excellent projector at an excellent price, so I don't think you can go too far wrong. Oh and that "Street Price" column for the US is almost as wrong as the CR column.

THe contrast numbers are so far off in that diagram when compared to measurements from respected reviewers and forum members, that I wouldn't decide based on that diagram alone.

That said, the TW1000 sounds to be an excellent projector at an excellent price, so I don't think you can go too far wrong. Oh and that "Street Price" column for the US is almost as wrong as the CR column.


please correct me if I am wrong - I do not follow too exactly the street prices in the US since I live in Europe.

In terms of contrast I have found some sources that second the above numbers.

But nevertheless reviews always have to be taken with a very carefull view.

jo-1

Anyone done an ISF calibration on one of these yet? I'm still adjusting my PowerLite 1080. Colors are pretty much spot on (cinema night or natural color mode). Contrtast is way too hot, however. I'm about -10 for the contrast at most settings. I love NCAA basketball on this thing. It's like watching a plasma.
mooneycj

Like PLASMA? Wow, that bright and sharp?

How big is your screen size? In batcave HT room?

Having said that it is still nice to see how the TW1000 (aka ProCinema 1080) is perceived by a german magazine that reviews home cinema equipment for 10 years now.

http://www.jo-1.de/ablage/prijectors.jpg
Interesting, I would say - ordered the projector immediately - this was the last missing proof for my decision.

I own the TW1000, so I'm not putting it down, but I have a hard time believing the black level of both the Epson and Panasonic are lower than the JVC and MUCH lower than the Pearl while the lumen output of the Epson is much lower than that of the JVC.

Just seems backwards to what we're being told by Art at PR.

Audiovision - a German test magazine - wrote the PJ does not provide 1:1 pixel mapping. This would be a no-go for me. I remember the same problem with the Sony HS50/51.

Can someone with a TW1000 test it with the HD test patterns from w6rz.com over HDMI and confirm the lack of perfect pixel mapping on this pj?? Please!!


Burnz

Audiovision - a German test magazine - wrote the PJ does not provide 1:1 pixel mapping. This would be a no-go for me. I remember the same problem with the Sony HS50/51.

Can someone with a TW1000 test it with the HD test patterns from w6rz.com over HDMI and confirm the lack of perfect pixel mapping on this pj?? Please!!


Burnz


Hmmm....can't find any test pattern at w6rz.com

@ Rolandlim: Sorry, its w6rz.net.

Burnz

hi all,

as promised I post a comparison of the audiovision review in comparison with previous tested projectors.
Reviews have to be taken very sceptical. IMHO you never can be sceptic enough on any opinion.

Having said that it is still nice to see how the TW1000 (aka ProCinema 1080) is perceived by a german magazine that reviews home cinema equipment for 10 years now.

http://www.jo-1.de/ablage/prijectors.jpg
Interesting, I would say - ordered the projector immediately - this was the last missing proof for my decision.

jo-1

I own the TW1000, so I'm not putting it down, but I have a hard time believing the black level of both the Epson and Panasonic are lower than the JVC and MUCH lower than the Pearl while the lumen output of the Epson is much lower than that of the JVC.

Just seems backwards to what we're being told by Art at PR.


What I found confusing and not so clear in that chart are :-

1. It was not mentioned in what mode the projectors measured at. For example, did they measured the TW-1000 in Theater Dark 2 mode or Natural mode or Dynamic mode? Did they use high or low lamp mode. And with the Sharp 21000, did they measure using iris at high contrast setting or medium or high brightness setting? Without knowing what mode and what lamp power they measured each projectors in, it is impossible to make any useful comparison or conclusion.

2. For Brightness measurement, what is "normal" and what is "eco". For normal, do they mean the brightest possible lumen ouput irrespcetive of color accuracy or do they mean a D65 calibrated mode with high lamp power? And for eco mode, exactly what color mode those projectors were set at was not stated.

3. The DI setting for DI projectors like the Epson TW-1000, Panasonic AE10000, Optoma HD81, Sony Pearl etc was not known in the chart. It is also not known what iris settings were used for measurement for manual iris projectors like the Sharp 21000 and the Marantz VP11S1. The iris setting would affect black level, contrast and lumen measurements a lot.

4. The measurements for the Epson TW-1000 and the JVC HD1 do not deviate too much from meaurements in other reviews. However, I am rather suspicious of the measurements of the Sharp 21000 and Sony Pearl in particular. Both of these projectors measured way better for contrast and black level in other reviews. The only explanation that I can come out with is that maybe they measured the Pearl and the Sharp not in the best contrast mode, i.e. they turned off DI while measuring the Pearl and opened the iris completely and used high lamp mode to measure the Sharp.

5. It's also wierd that they measured the Optoma HD81 with a higher ANSI contrast than the Sharp 21000. That is contrary to all other reviews I have seen.

Perhaps jo-1 can clarify some of these points for us if he had read the full articles from Audiovision.

My guess is they have a screen in house and just used whatever setting could best light up their screen. I mean the contrast numbers for the VW50, Qualia, Z21000, HD81 and other projectors are way, way off - upto 8X off. Either that or they were measured in different rooms, on different screens, again, not in best modes.

Like I said earlier the TW1000 sounds like a great projector, but those contrast numbers are not objectively correct. I'd list the street prices but that's not permitted on this forum.

@rolandlim

so many questions - so little time :)

But let me explain how I think audiovision works - they take theprojectors and calibrate them to D65. The written values should all reflect the possibilities with correct calibration. I thinks it's obvious that some tweaking could result in slightly better results.

Unfortunately they do not write too much about their preparation and their test setup.

But the results reflect for the projectors I've seen pretty much my experiences in terms of brightness and visual appearance.

Normal and ECO simply means with D65 setting and therefore the dynamic mode is a no go for this data. Some 380 Limen is very impressing though in the appropriate setting + ECO.

@Burnz
yes - I read that as well and it frightened me before ordering the TW1000

I will post here my experiences as soon as the "black beauty" is @home. I hope my unit arrives before next weekend!! :D

I will connect my QuadCore MAC G5 via DVI->HDMI for testing and playback of HD content for the time being until I get a 24 fps BluRay Player. SwitchResX gives me the opportunity to get every "crazy" resolution / vertical frequency setting.

I assume either there is some cropping to allow pixel shifting or there was a misinterpretation. (I had the same situation with my BenQ flat TV - the rumors were not true)

So I will post it here as soon as the pj arrived (unfortunately this week is full of meetings and dinners with customers)

The good news is that the price in Germany was dramatically reduced by EPSON to a list price of 3.5 k EUR including a three year warranty and 19 % tax!! So the HongKong and Japan opportunity was just some hundred bucks cheaper with far less warranty - very easy to judge IMHO.

The list form audiovision was compiled by myself by collecting the old test results. Take it as it is - an indication and surely no scientific work - as I simply do not know the test conditions in detail - but it is always the same. What I wanted to show is how close those pjs are. I've seen the JVC, the HC5000 the Sony VW50 and 100 - the Qualia04 plus the Fujitsu (IMHO one of the best of this collection with a very bright image)

I hope the TW is bright enough @ 113" on my gian 1.3 silver screen in eco mode - but if not the normal setting should simply raise costs by some cents per hour and some noise !?!

I've followed this thread from the beginning and I was completely positive about all the excellent reports! THX for that!!

Some good news last but not least - the EPSON can do 24 fps!! EPSON germany states that on their web page - this was for me the last neccessary point to collect.

looking forward to next weekend!

BTW does anyone know how to access the service menu?

vbr <=> jo-1

Yesterday I wired a PS3 jap(HDMI 1.3) and a Samsung BD-P1000(HDMI 1.2), both with Underworld Evolution, to my TW 1000.Switching,I have seen a dramatic improvement of the chromatism by PS3.Is it an effect of the HDMI 1.3 ?

Is it an effect of the HDMI 1.3 ?
Don't think so. AFAIK, there's no Deep Color or such used in PS3 for BD output.

Don't think so. AFAIK, there's no Deep Color or such used in PS3 for BD output.
But in the menu of the TW 1000 appears: Input -Deep Color. How can it recognize that input if ,how you say, there isn't the support ?

But in the menu of the TW 1000 appears: Input -Deep Color. How can it recognize that input if ,how you say, there isn't the support ?

My guess is that it's recognizing that the signal being input is a 1.3 HDMI input, not just an HDMI of 1.0/1.1 or 1.2. Since the input is 1.3, the Epson is reporting the Deep Color support, making note of the potential so you get excited (slight sarcasm). They may just want you to feel like you're getting something. I think we will have to wait a while before "deep color".

I bought the german audiovision 4/07 magazine. They argue there is a non-removeable overscan of 3.1% at 576p and 0.3% at 1080i/p from hdmi source. Can someone with a tw1000 confirm this?

PS: They also criticised the handling of 576i material: very bad deinterlacing with hdmi and bad deinterlacing and blurred image with component.

thx pj1080

Yesterday I wired a PS3 jap(HDMI 1.3) and a Samsung BD-P1000(HDMI 1.2), both with Underworld Evolution, to my TW 1000.Switching,I have seen a dramatic improvement of the chromatism by PS3.Is it an effect of the HDMI 1.3 ?


All present Blu-ray discs including Underworld Evolution are only encoded with 8 bit color. There should not be any difference whether the video signal is transferred by hdmi 1.3 or previous versions of hdmi.

However, if I remeber correctly, there were widespread report of image processing problem with the Samsung Blu-ray player. There were reports that Samsung was going to release a firmware update to correct the problem. I haven't followed the story subsequently. Not sure if Samsung have released the firmware update or not.

If you read the reviews of PS 3 as a Blu-ray player compared to Samsung, most reviews reoported that the PS 3 prodcued a significantly better picture than the Samsung. So the poor pircture quality you got with the Samsung was probably a hardwrare issue with the Samsung rather than related to the lack of hdmi 1.3

Roland, Very good explanation, plain and simple and clear!

That sould be the reason.

I bought the german audiovision 4/07 magazine. They argue there is a non-removeable overscan of 3.1% at 576p and 0.3% at 1080i/p from hdmi source. Can someone with a tw1000 confirm this?

PS: They also criticised the handling of 576i material: very bad deinterlacing with hdmi and bad deinterlacing and blurred image with component.

thx pj1080

fortunately audiovision added as well that the 1080P support of pre scaled DVD material was much better than the JVC HD1 handling.

IMHO all new 1080P projectors should be judged for their handling capabilities of 1080P and 1080i signals. Upscaling and deinterlacing is something the player should provide.

HDMI is also a must IMHO.

Since I will get the TW1000 hopefully before the weekend I will have an eye on the HDMI scaling and 1080i qualities of the projector. I will get a new satellite set top box with 1080i output and my DVD-Player can upscale DVD to 1080i output as well.

Let's have a look what the "black beauty" can do in real world.

The 0.3 % overscan would translate into 6 cropped pixels or a unconvenient scaling for 6 pixels. I'd assume this is a kind of cropping and leaving out some 6 pixels.

(bad but maybe not so frightening as real scaling)


vbr <=> jo-1

fortunately audiovision added as well that the 1080P support of pre scaled DVD material was much better than the JVC HD1 handling.

IMHO all new 1080P projectors should be judged for their handling capabilities of 1080P and 1080i signals. Upscaling and deinterlacing is something the player should provide.

HDMI is also a must IMHO.

Since I will get the TW1000 hopefully before the weekend I will have an eye on the HDMI scaling and 1080i qualities of the projector. I will get a new satellite set top box with 1080i output and my DVD-Player can upscale DVD to 1080i output as well.

Let's have a look what the "black beauty" can do in real world.

The 0.3 % overscan would translate into 6 cropped pixels or a unconvenient scaling for 6 pixels. I'd assume this is a kind of cropping and leaving out some 6 pixels.
(bad but maybe not so frightening as real scaling)


vbr <=> jo-1

I just tried the Overscan and Pixel Crop Pattern on w6rz.net. I did not see any pixel cropping at all for the 0% overscan lines :)

@ Rolandlim: Can you please also try the test pattern with lines of one, two, three and four pixels width to confirm that the pj does 1:1 pixel perfect mapping. Are you connected to the pj via a DVI to HDMI cable by using a HTPC?

Thanks

Burnz

@ Rolandlim: Can you please also try the test pattern with lines of one, two, three and four pixels width to confirm that the pj does 1:1 pixel perfect mapping. Are you connected to the pj via a DVI to HDMI cable by using a HTPC?

Thanks

Burnz


I am using my Powermac G4 connected via DVI to hdmi to display the pattern on my TW-1000. I have just tried the Alternating black/white 1, 2, 3 and 4 pixel strips 1920x1080 as requested. The pattern was sharp and pixel perfect as far as I can see. I walked up to the screen and examined the pattern close-up, each of the lines were exactly 1, 2, 3 and 4 pixels wide respectively. I saw no evidence that there was any overscan at all.

Thank you for publishing your findings so quickly, Rolandlim. This is very good news. I might buy this pj.

one more question: How is the convergence of your device? Is it possible to adjust convergence (like on the JVC) in the menu or service-menu?

Audiovision is (was) the best AV magazine I know, but the tests they perform are becoming more and more a joke.

Burnz

Thank you for publishing your findings so quickly, Rolandlim. This is very good news. I might buy this pj.

one more question: How is the convergence of your device? Is it possible to adjust convergence (like on the JVC) in the menu or service-menu?

Audiovision is (was) the best AV magazine I know, but the tests they perform are becoming more and more a joke.

Burnz

The convergence on my TW-1000 is good. There is at most 1/2 pixel mis-convergence on the extreme right side. The rest of the screen are fine, I cannot detect any mis-convergence. It is certainly not visible normal viewing distances. And no, convergence is not adjustable on the TW-1000. I think the JVC HD-1 is the only 3 panels digital projector that allows convergence adjustment at the moment.

I just tried the Overscan and Pixel Crop Pattern on w6rz.net. I did not see any pixel cropping at all for the 0% overscan lines :)


excellent!!!

(that's what I was expecting and hoping) :)

jo-1

The convergence on my TW-1000 is good. There is at most 1/2 pixel mis-convergence on the extreme right side. The rest of the screen are fine, I cannot detect any mis-convergence. It is certainly not visible normal viewing distances. And no, convergence is not adjustable on the TW-1000. I think the JVC HD-1 is the only 3 panels digital projector that allows convergence adjustment at the moment.


I have to agree with Roland. I have seen 4 or 5 TW1000's and so far they all have very tight convergence. They only slight misconvergence is at the extreme outer edges of the picture. Also they maintain very tight focus even at the extremes of lens shift.

Also for what it is worth, I havent seen an IRIS issue yet.
Jacksonian, how long did you run your 1000 for (when you first had it) before the problem came up?

Maybe it is better they dont give us the convergence adjustment as it is just one more thing to obsess about tweaking!
S

Wish I was as lucky with convergence as you guys. My TW1000 is one pixell off horizontally all the way. Vertically it´s good in the center, but one off in the last quarter or so, both sides. Guess it´s within spec, though, or what do you think?
I really don´t feel too excited about sending it back to Japan.

Oh, to have that convergence adjustment in cases like this...

Also for what it is worth, I havent seen an IRIS issue yet.
Jacksonian, how long did you run your 1000 for (when you first had it) before the problem came up?

The first TW1000 ran perfectly for about 2-3 hours when the "Auto Iris Error" blue screen popped up. Then it did it every time exactly 10 minutes after I started it up, even if I turned it off. So it definitely seemed like a software issue and not an actual hardware iris issue. So they could easily have fixed it with a firmware update or something.

As for convergence, I'VE NEVER LOOKED! :eek: :D I've learned not to look for thinks on test patterns and blanks screens. I mean seriously, what's the point? If you can't notice it during normal viewing, does it really matter? If a tree falls in the forest...

Wish I was as lucky with convergence as you guys. My TW1000 is one pixell off horizontally all the way. Vertically it´s good in the center, but one off in the last quarter or so, both sides. Guess it´s within spec, though, or what do you think?
I really don´t feel too excited about sending it back to Japan.

Oh, to have that convergence adjustment in cases like this...

The way I see it is this. Can you see the mis-convergence at your normal viewing distance? Is it affecting sharpness of the image at your normal viewing distance? If the answers are no to these questions, then I don't think you should worry about it and just enjoy watching more movies with your projector.

The first TW1000 ran perfectly for about 2-3 hours when the "Auto Iris Error" blue screen popped up. Then it did it every time exactly 10 minutes after I started it up, even if I turned it off. So it definitely seemed like a software issue and not an actual hardware iris issue. So they could easily have fixed it with a firmware update or something.

As for convergence, I'VE NEVER LOOKED! :eek: :D I've learned not to look for thinks on test patterns and blanks screens. I mean seriously, what's the point? If you can't notice it during normal viewing, does it really matter? If a tree falls in the forest...

Well, yeah, if you don't notice it, then that's fine, but it's a good thing to check out. If you're not happy, you get it warranteed. My first TX200 had poor convergence. It wasn't miserable, but it was poor. You could see a slightly less than sharp image when watching dvd's. With the menu up, it was fairly obvious. I wouldn't worry about anything less than 1/2 to 3/4 of a pixel at the edges. I had over a pixel and it was closer to the middle of the screen, well before you got to the edge, so I had it replaced. The second unit was much better.

Anyhow, it sounds like convergence with these is good on average, so that's great.

The first TW1000 ran perfectly for about 2-3 hours when the "Auto Iris Error" blue screen popped up. Then it did it every time exactly 10 minutes after I started it up, even if I turned it off. So it definitely seemed like a software issue and not an actual hardware iris issue. So they could easily have fixed it with a firmware update or something.

As for convergence, I'VE NEVER LOOKED! :eek: :D I've learned not to look for thinks on test patterns and blanks screens. I mean seriously, what's the point? If you can't notice it during normal viewing, does it really matter? If a tree falls in the forest...


Thanks

I have tested a few to see if it will do the same thing. So far I havent seen it come up. Did you have the IRIS on when it first came up?

Cheers
S

all this talk about convergence - would that also effect the actual menu structure as well. ie the actual menu itself as displayed. or would it only effect what goes on behind the menu screens.

for example i play a film and then push a menu option so a menu option is displayed - would convergence issues effect that menu or is the menu generated without convergence having any effect on it.

Thanks

I have tested a few to see if it will do the same thing. So far I havent seen it come up. Did you have the IRIS on when it first came up?

Cheers
S
You know, Sam, I can't remember. I think I had it on, but I'm not sure. But I know that once it started, it happened while Iris was disabled.

all this talk about convergence - would that also effect the actual menu structure as well. ie the actual menu itself as displayed. or would it only effect what goes on behind the menu screens.

for example i play a film and then push a menu option so a menu option is displayed - would convergence issues effect that menu or is the menu generated without convergence having any effect on it.
First, don't get hung up on convergence. This is not an issue for the large majority of people.

Second, if someone had severe misconvergence, it would affect everything that the projector displayed. What they're talking about with menus and computer text is being able to see a slight red or blue fringe to lettering text. Most people don't use their HT pj as a computer monitor and most people would never notice misconvergence even if they had it. But most pjs have a tiny amount, but not enough to notice.

And to be clear, EVERY 3 panel projector will have some measure of misconvergence. Even the vaunted JVC (which even has a menu control for adjusting the pixel convergence) can't be made perfect. So it's nothing to freak out about. It's getting blown way out of proportion.

all this talk about convergence - would that also effect the actual menu structure as well. ie the actual menu itself as displayed. or would it only effect what goes on behind the menu screens.

for example i play a film and then push a menu option so a menu option is displayed - would convergence issues effect that menu or is the menu generated without convergence having any effect on it.

Yep. The menu is just like everything else the projector displays. It's generated by the projector and displayed as pixels. The point is, for me, the Hitachi TX200 menu is white, and when I would bring it up and move its position around the screen, it was an easy was to check convergence. I have pics showing the poor convergence of my TX200.

Sometimes the lens of the projector adds chromatic aberations, and that looks alot like mis-convergence. You have to really look at the test pattern or menu and know what colour you are seeing and where.

Most projectors have a small amount, and you can see it by pulling up test patterns or menu's and moving a little closer to the screen to see exactly what is misconverged and where. For the most part, I think it's only an issue when it's bad. With my first TX200 projector, one panel was off by one pixel in one direction while the other panel was off by almost a pixel in the other direction! This is when it shows up, because those two pixels are not just out of alignment to the degree of being visible side by side, they are actually two pixels apart with a full pixel space between them. That is noticable during dvd's!

If your projector has convergence within 1 pixel or less, it is probably not noticable at the seating position. If it's 1/2 pixel or less, it's probably not noticable and definitely not worth worrying about.

Anyone else get their projector from Hong Kong? Got mine just now while at work, and was surprised when I ripped open the box to find a 240v power cable with the bulky three prong British style plug (looks like a clothes drier heavy duty plug). Anyone else ordered Epson part number 2080118 to swap out? (MSRP of approx $18).

I should be OK just swapping the cable, right? I understand that the projector itself autodetects either 110v or 240v power and internally does any power regulating required, making the design international. Correct?

I am ridiculously psyched to go home and fire this thing up. I'll have to convince the wife to skip out on work early.

A regular pc power cable will work just fine, no need to order an Epson cable. You should be able to find one on your way home from work. I used one that came with one of my plasmas for my TW1000.

Edit: If you order from Superfly77, he was including a sweet upgraded US power cable in the deal. Ask Davedelite.

Anyone else get their projector from Hong Kong? Got mine just now while at work, and was surprised when I ripped open the box to find a 240v power cable with the bulky three prong British style plug (looks like a clothes drier heavy duty plug). Anyone else ordered Epson part number 2080118 to swap out? (MSRP of approx $18).

I should be OK just swapping the cable, right? I understand that the projector itself autodetects either 110v or 240v power and internally does any power regulating required, making the design international. Correct?

I am ridiculously psyched to go home and fire this thing up. I'll have to convince the wife to skip out on work early.


Yes, the projector has universal voltage from 100 to 240V. You'll just need standard IEC power cable with an American style plug. Since you bought an Hong Kong model, it would come with a UK style plug, because that's the standard plug in Hong kong.

I'll probably use a custom AC power cord that has a 90 degree plug so I can push my projector as far back as possible against the rear wall, in order for me to max out my throw for use with the anamorphic lens...hopefully to improve geometry while I'm in this smaller room :) .. of course I'll need a 90 degree HDMI, maybe 90 degree vga plug and whatever other cables too :p

I'll probably use a custom AC power cord that has a 90 degree plug so I can push my projector as far back as possible against the rear wall, in order for me to max out my throw for use with the anamorphic lens...hopefully to improve geometry while I'm in this smaller room :) .. of course I'll need a 90 degree HDMI, maybe 90 degree vga plug and whatever other cables too :p


An advantage of the TW series is they have a scart connection. You can buy scart to component video or other types of connectors. Maybe HDMI but I am not sure as I think scart is analog. In any case the convertor is about 10$ and it gives you anothe input that the USA models dont have. This makes it easier to hook up multiple pieces of HT gear without a switcher.
S

An advantage of the TW series is they have a scart connection. You can buy scart to component video or other types of connectors. Maybe HDMI but I am not sure as I think scart is analog. In any case the convertor is about 10$ and it gives you anothe input that the USA models dont have. This makes it easier to hook up multiple pieces of HT gear without a switcher.
S

That's true. It could be useful to have two component type inputs, and/or two VGA type inputs.

First, don't get hung up on convergence. This is not an issue for the large majority of people.

Second, if someone had severe misconvergence, it would affect everything that the projector displayed. What they're talking about with menus and computer text is being able to see a slight red or blue fringe to lettering text. Most people don't use their HT pj as a computer monitor and most people would never notice misconvergence even if they had it. But most pjs have a tiny amount, but not enough to notice.

And to be clear, EVERY 3 panel projector will have some measure of misconvergence. Even the vaunted JVC (which even has a menu control for adjusting the pixel convergence) can't be made perfect. So it's nothing to freak out about. It's getting blown way out of proportion.

Agreed. Every 3 chip device I have ever seen has not had perfect convergence and I wonder if it is even possible.

Convergence issues are IMO even less an issue on pjs like these that have so many pixels.

I recently purchased the US model of the Epson PowerLite ProCinema 1080. We negotiated it down to $3800 from a dealer who wanted it off their hands. Our home theater is no where near completed, but I tested it on one of the clear walls in our house. The picture is amazing. This is definitely one of the best values on the market, possibly the best 1080p 3-LCD front projector available in the sub-$10,000 range. One thing that I wanted to note was the D-SCART connector seen on the Japanese model. One thing I found that was odd was the presence of the D-SCART (aka D-Terminal) input on the US model. I guess that means that Epson USA just imported the Black models and rebranded it with the PowerLite moniker and threw in a mount and lamp. Figured that that was worth mentioning.

Agreed. Every 3 chip device I have ever seen has not had perfect convergence and I wonder if it is even possible.

Convergence issues are IMO even less an issue on pjs like these that have so many pixels.

It's all about tolerances and quality control. On average, most lcd projectors are within the limits of what most people would find a sharp pleasant picture. It will never be perfect, and again, the lens adds ca which has a similar look, so you just have to be aware of what to expect and only concern yourself with things that are un-usual. If you suspect something is wrong with your own projector and still aren't sure, check somebody else's or report your findings here to compare. If you suspect something isn't right, just look into it more and figure out if it's bad enough that it will be warranteed. That's all there is to that.

I recently purchased the US model of the Epson PowerLite ProCinema 1080. We negotiated it down to $3800 from a dealer who wanted it off their hands. Our home theater is no where near completed, but I tested it on one of the clear walls in our house. The picture is amazing. This is definitely one of the best values on the market, possibly the best 1080p 3-LCD front projector available in the sub-$10,000 range. One thing that I wanted to note was the D-SCART connector seen on the Japanese model. One thing I found that was odd was the presence of the D-SCART (aka D-Terminal) input on the US model. I guess that means that Epson USA just imported the Black models and rebranded it with the PowerLite moniker and threw in a mount and lamp. Figured that that was worth mentioning.

Aren't the NA models white? If they have the scart connectors on those too then that's neat. Too bad they don't have 2 hdmi connectors, but oh well.

I recently purchased the US model of the Epson PowerLite ProCinema 1080. We negotiated it down to $3800 from a dealer who wanted it off their hands. Our home theater is no where near completed, but I tested it on one of the clear walls in our house. The picture is amazing. This is definitely one of the best values on the market, possibly the best 1080p 3-LCD front projector available in the sub-$10,000 range. One thing that I wanted to note was the D-SCART connector seen on the Japanese model. One thing I found that was odd was the presence of the D-SCART (aka D-Terminal) input on the US model. I guess that means that Epson USA just imported the Black models and rebranded it with the PowerLite moniker and threw in a mount and lamp. Figured that that was worth mentioning.

If you go to page page 70 of the PowerLite Pro Cinema 1080 user manual (freely downloadable from the US Epson website), the title of this page is "Declaration of Conformity". The last 2 lines on this page are:-

Model : EMP TW-1000
Marketing Name : PowerLite Pro Cinema 1080

If you go to page 8, you can see there is D/SCART port, and the connectors layout is exactly the same as TW-1000 from the rest of the World.

Basically, the EMP TW-1000 and PowerLite Pro Cinema 1080 are exactly the same machine. PowerLite Pro Cinema 1080 is purely a marketing name used in North America by Epson.

If you go to page page 70 of the PowerLite Pro Cinema 1080 user manual (freely downloadable from the US Epson website), the title of this page is "Declaration of Conformity". The last 2 lines on this page are:-

Model : EMP TW-1000
Marketing Name : PowerLite Pro Cinema 1080

If you go to page 8, you can see there is D/SCART port, and the connectors layout is exactly the same as TW-1000 from the rest of the World.

Basically, the EMP TW-1000 and PowerLite Pro Cinema 1080 are exactly the same machine. PowerLite Pro Cinema 1080 is purely a marketing name used in North America by Epson.

I never looked at that but that would explain it. I'm surprised that Epson wouldn't localize the input connectors, even if it used the same hardware. Still, the D-SCART connector could come in handy.

Aren't the NA models white? If they have the scart connectors on those too then that's neat. Too bad they don't have 2 hdmi connectors, but oh well.

The North American models come in the sleek black color. As far as I know, Japan is the only region that uses the white.

The North American models come in the sleek black color. As far as I know, Japan is the only region that uses the white.

That's cool. I love the black colour :)

I recently purchased the US model of the Epson PowerLite ProCinema 1080. We negotiated it down to $3800 from a dealer who wanted it off their hands. Our home theater is no where near completed, but I tested it on one of the clear walls in our house. The picture is amazing. This is definitely one of the best values on the market, possibly the best 1080p 3-LCD front projector available in the sub-$10,000 range.

WOW, that is a very strong statement: (possibly) The best 1080p Front Projector in the sub $10,000 range.

That is music to all Epson owners, including me. :)

But, hush hush, don't let them RS1/Ruby owners know, they will swarm this thread otherwise . . . :p

He may have meant to emphasize the 3-LCD part. It probably is the best 3-LCD pj, but that doesn't count SXRD (Pearl) and D-ILA (RS-1).

Ooops. :(

Yeah, I was very careful with my wording there. I was strictly comparing the Epson to the comparable Panasonic and Mitsubishi 3-LCD 1080p PJs on the market. Not to say that the Epson can't stack up to the JVC or Ruby, just I don't think it would surpass them by leaps and bounds, judging by what I've seen in terms of ratings, word of mouth, and with my own eyes.

some additional information:

Review in *********.de (http://******************/thread.php?threadid=73334&threadview=0&hilight=&hilightuser=0&page=5)

in this well known german forum the review of the EMP-TW1000 statet following:
• better than the HC5000 in terms of black level and light output
• even surpasses the HC5000 in High mode when the TW1000 is switched to eco
• better picture quality than any other 3LCD on the market
• image quality like DLP projectors
• excellent color accuracy out of the box in Theater black 2 modus

They have been very delighted about the TW1000. The black level they meassured was not as good as the BL of the JVC HD1 but nevertheless the result is more than a good outcome.

(can't waiteto get mine though) :D

some additional information:

Review in *********.de (http://******************/thread.php?threadid=73334&threadview=0&hilight=&hilightuser=0&page=5)

(can't waiteto get mine though) :D

Can you just post that .de link in full, I think it's OK to post! :D

Here is Babel Fish translation German review of the Epson TW-1000 from Audiovision magazine. It was hard work but it os done.

Could someone corret it with more user friendly English, please?

____________________________________________________________ __

The beautiful black housing of the new Epson TW-1000 is not everything: For 4000 Euro one receives a 1080p projector on LCD basis, which by good picture values convinces. Gloss light in the a riser segment: For only 4000 Euro Epson offers a properly coordinated and fascinatingly good HDTV projector.

PROS:
contrast-strong, colorfast and natural picture in all modes of operation properly coordinated full HD resolution.

CONS:
did not limit brightness direct pixel control possible.

The black Hengst from the book "Black Beauty" of Anna Sewell was tormented long time, before it experienced the earned good treatment finally with its new owners. Also good 1080p projectors must feel easily tormented, if they are not fed with HDTV signals. To these Riege belongs the Epson TW-1000 for 4000 euro: With HDTV signals it carries out almost unbelievable. As a world market leader within the range chip production for LCD projectors white Epson is already enough, as one builds correctly good projectors. Thus the Japanese manufacturer already used a color filter, which changed the flash spectrum of the lamp in favor of a higher farbtreue in the TW-1000 as the first. This filter is naturally also in the newest and most expensive home cinema projector of the house, to the TW-1000. That shines besides by a new generation of picture chips and further technical innovations (see also box on page 46).

List and operation
As used from Epson, gives itself the TW-1000 in the list flexibly and in the operation simply. Its proud double - zoom shot and its powerful picture disalignment (vertical Lensshift of 96 percent, horizontal 47 percent) ensure for the fact that the projector finds practically everywhere in the area a suitable place. The remote maintenance presents itself handy and simply structured, with many direct keys and a keyboard lighting. In order much does not need one after the setting-up of the picture to worry, because the picture pre-setting is meaningfully laid out: In the mode "Natural" are respected video standards at most, the mode "theatre" provide for the best cinematic picture impression in the professionally darkened home cinema. The by far largest luminous efficiency results in the Brutalo mode "dynamic", in which the projector on image quality takes hardly more jerk view and simply for bright of pictures provides.

Unfortunate we that inserted test patterns are missing to the practical high-speed adjustment, found likewise a motor driven focus for comfortable attitude by remote maintenance. Particularly since other projectors as for example the Panasonic PT-AE1000 offer the full assortment in this price class. With the competitor Sony VPL VW-50 for 5000 Euro can be adjusted even zoom shot, Lensshift and focus most comfortably by remote with serving.

Image quality
Directly first it was noticeable that the TW-1000 controls the black representation. Darken universe scenes as in the "Star Wars" - Saga arrive to it well and reliably. Shades in the dark display spaces did not prepare any problems for it, protecting some other LCD projector here colored deviations show. Although there are free of doubts projectors, which shine by still higher contrast values, the Epson was noticeable never unpleasantly. Even difficult scenes worked plastic enough, in order of would prefer a darkened home cinema to profit and effectively spatial depth to obtain. As the Epson an automatically regulated iris screen in the optics uses many other projectors, by which the brightness reduced in dark scenes and increases in bright scenes. Contrary to the competitors of Panasonic, Mitsubishi and Sony screen works at the Epson however quite slowly, which is quite desired, because thus falls the regulation not in the eye. We determined an unwanted side effect however nevertheless: With fast changes from darkness to bright it can come to over-regulations in the picture, so that for example clouds blur at short notice to white marks. The faster regulations of Panasonic and Sony work here more inconspicuously and thus more effectively. Matter of taste however always remains the screen mechanism, why it is good that it can be switched off.

The quality of the DVD rendition hung considerably, if also not as dramatically as off with the JVC from page 63, of the kind of the passed on signal. By component in 576i the full resolution adjusted itself, but nevertheless no really sharp picture impression. The transformation of the half-images in the frame left to be desired clearly and drew on moved edges unpleasant comb structures or stairway steps after itself. By HDMI in the same classification of signals the sharp impression, the De-Interlacing improved remained however unsatisfactory.

For remedy for this problem a DVD Player with good frame quality provides. Already starting from 576p passing on by HDMI we saw very beautiful pictures with such a connection. To a further easy improvement it, than we fed the Epson with 1080p signals from the DVD Player Denon 3930, came our present reference.

The image quality best with distance resulted however only in the case of genuine HDTV passing on. Here the Epson accumulated proper to maximum form and illustrated even individual HDTV pixel on the canvas. Thus films made equal twice as much fun. In the comedy " Wedding Crashers " on Premiere HD rushes about to scenes with constantly changing picture details only in such a way. But it now around whirling dances, hunt scenes or a garden party went off. In the theatre mode worked the picture of the Epson always convincingly naturally and finely resolved, so that the test crew felt as in the cinema.

Everything did not succeed to the Epson nevertheless however. Bright one scenes revealed particularly easy inhomogeneities in the picture, with our test equipment dear a light pink farbener strip in white pictures recognize each other with Schwenks. Neither DLP projectors nor Sony VW-50 or JVC DLA-HD1 exhibit such picture errors.

Result
Once more Epson presents a outstanding LCD projector with good price to performance ratio. A few small Macken has it, but more cheaply one does not come at present to a fully dissolved and in nearly each regard fascinating HD picture. Who wants to enjoy thus well and favorably preference/advantage of HD DVD and Blu-Ray, finds with the TW-1000 the correct partner.

some additional information:

Review in *********.de (http://******************/thread.php?threadid=73334&threadview=0&hilight=&hilightuser=0&page=5)

in this well known german forum the review of the EMP-TW1000 statet following:
• better than the HC5000 in terms of black level and light output
• even surpasses the HC5000 in High mode when the TW1000 is switched to eco
• better picture quality than any other 3LCD on the market
• image quality like DLP projectors
• excellent color accuracy out of the box in Theater black 2 modus

They have been very delighted about the TW1000. The black level they meassured was not as good as the BL of the JVC HD1 but nevertheless the result is more than a good outcome.

(can't waiteto get mine though) :D

..yeah, that's been there for a couple of weeks now.. .

Looking forward to the rest of their review, but it's enough to indicate how good it is already.

Has anybody switched their Sanyo Z4 to this Epson EMP-TW1000?
Or do direct comparison of both?

Is there much inprovement in overall picture quality/brightness/sharpness/color accuracy/black level etc?

THANKS

Has anybody switched their Sanyo Z4 to this Epson EMP-TW1000?
Or do direct comparison of both?

Is there much inprovement in overall picture quality/brightness/sharpness/color accuracy/black level etc?

THANKS


I thought you already ordered the TW-1000 from Hong Kong? :confused:

YES and NO Roland,

Yes, I have ordered couple weeks ago.

No, I have not Epson hang on my ceiling yet, I will get it in 1 or 2 days for SURE!

Still have my good old Z4 now. Yes, it is a very good 720p Pj, I hope EPSON will raise the picture quality and brightness by 2 -3 pars ???

YES and NO Roland,

Yes, I have ordered couple weeks ago.

No, I have not Epson hang on my ceiling yet, I will get it in 1 or 2 days for SURE!

Still have my good old Z4 now. Yes, it is a very good 720p Pj, I hope EPSON will raise the picture quality and brightness by 2 -3 pars ???

As a new D6 LCD panels projector, I am sure the TW-1000 will compare favourably to your Z4 with D5 panels. Comparing the TW-1000 with my old TW-600, whcih also has D5 panels, the TW-1000 has significantly better picture quality.

I would say the TW-1000 will be significantly brighter than your Z4 in the brightest mode, but under vidoe optimized mode, I am not sure if it will be much brighter. But since it will come with a new bulb and with better contrast, it should look "subjectively" brighter. That's my experince anyway (in theory, the TW-600 should be significantly brighter than the TW-100, but under video optimized mode using Theater Black 2 mode, I found the TW-1000 brighter than the TW-600 subjectively)

Roland,

Your opinion is always well explained, simple and very easy to understand.

Yes, I have to remember that, D6 against D5 ! :)

Many Thanks, again.

Can we say that all 720p and 1080p LCD projectors in the market using EPSON own production of D5 and D6 panels? NO other than EPSON panels?

Like Texas Instrument to DLP?

Can we say that all 720p and 1080p LCD projectors in the market using EPSON own production of D5 and D6 panels? NO other than EPSON panels?


The only other LCD panels producer is Sony, but they only produce for their own line of LCD projectors.

..yeah, that's been there for a couple of weeks now.. .

Looking forward to the rest of their review, but it's enough to indicate how good it is already.

I posted the complete link - unfortunately the system cuts it - just go to b e i s a m m e n . de and look for projectors.

off topic: mine is on th way and UPS tracking indicates toady as delivery!! :D

Latest Saturday I will post my experiences here - I get it D65 calibrated and the dealer in Germany says that it looks awsome!!

looking forward to a gread weekend!

Jo-1

Anybody who's been able to use native resolution via VGA using a computer with an ATI video card, raise your hand please. I can't get the horizontal resolution to be displayed without scaling no matter what I try (both projector and PC signal settings). Vertical resolution at 1080 is fine. :mad:

Anybody who's been able to use native resolution via VGA using a computer with an ATI video card, raise your hand please. I can't get the horizontal resolution to be displayed without scaling no matter what I try (both projector and PC signal settings). Vertical resolution at 1080 is fine. :mad:


The TW-1000 only supports analog RGB resolutions via VGA from 640x480 to 1280x1024. It does not support 1920x1080 via VGA.

somebody having some bad experience with a TW1000 from HiviZone? i consider to order one, when the next batch become available (should be the second week in april)...

The TW-1000 only supports analog RGB resolutions via VGA from 640x480 to 1280x1024. It does not support 1920x1080 via VGA.Darn, that's right. I read the manual wrong. :o

Darn, that's right. I read the manual wrong. :o

You can always try using DVI output from your computer to connect to the HDMI input of the TW-1000. You should be able to get 1:1 pixel mapping at 1920x1080 :)

Hi Roland,

Have you received my PM?

The TW-1000 only supports analog RGB resolutions via VGA from 640x480 to 1280x1024. It does not support 1920x1080 via VGA.

Thats odd. I used the 1080p output via VGA on my Xbox 360 and my Pro Cinema 1080 displayed it.

Thats odd. I used the 1080p output via VGA on my Xbox 360 and my Pro Cinema 1080 displayed it.

Although the TW-1000/Pro Cinema 1080 does not officially support 1080p with VGA inuput, I would not be surprised if it does in fact supports it in real life. On my old TW-600, 1080p is not officially supported in the HDMI input. However, I found that it did accept 1080p via HDMI in real life. However, the resultant image was quite horrible with a lot of jaggies and heavy scaling artifacts. 1080i or 720p looked much better than 1080p on the TW-600.

One question though, if you go to the info menu on your Pro Cinema 1080, did it show the signal as 1125p(or 1080p)?

Although the TW-1000/Pro Cinema 1080 does not officially support 1080p with VGA inuput, I would not be surprised if it does in fact supports it in real life. On my old TW-600, 1080p is not officially supported in the HDMI input. However, I found that it did accept 1080p via HDMI in real life. However, the resultant image was quite horrible with a lot of jaggies and heavy scaling artifacts. 1080i or 720p looked much better than 1080p on the TW-600.

One question though, if you go to the info menu on your Pro Cinema 1080, did it show the signal as 1125p(or 1080p)?

I have tried it on my TW1000 with the xbox360 VGA cable and it definitely supports it. Info screen shows 1080 progressive. My feel however is that colours look a bit washed out and there is some overscan with cropping of the picture. Still digging into the menus to adjust for this.

"$2700 The Epson TX-1000 is the 1080p version of the TX100. As I said before, Epson's international projectors can be serviced in the USA . It is the best projector under $3000."



Just read this in the Tech Hunter site, is it true?


http://thetechhunter.blogspot.com/2007/03/prey-captured-projectors.html


I've been holding off on getting one of these due to my concerns about having issues with warranty service being handled overseas, shipping it out, waiting for a return, etc. etc.etc. If this information is accurate, I may well be placing an order soon!


John

"$2700 The Epson TX-1000 is the 1080p version of the TX100. As I said before, Epson's international projectors can be serviced in the USA . It is the best projector under $3000."



Just read this in the Tech Hunter site, is it true?


http://thetechhunter.blogspot.com/2007/03/prey-captured-projectors.html


I've been holding off on getting one of these due to my concerns about having issues with warranty service being handled overseas, shipping it out, waiting for a return, etc. etc.etc. If this information is accurate, I may well be placing an order soon!


John


The model is TW-1000, not TX-1000. It is the same porjector as the Epson Cinema Pro 1080 sold by Epson US.

You can buy the Epson TW-1000 from Hong Kong, which will come with a 2 year international warranty. You can have the projector serviced for for free within the warranty period by Epson US.

You can also buy the projector from Japan, but the Japanese version does not come with an international warranty. You wold have to ship it back to Japan for servicing if something goes wrong. However, the Japanese version is cheaper than the Hong Kong version. So it's your choice.

I posted some of my initial impressions about Epson vs. Mitsu on another forum:

Here are some of my opinions concerning the projectors. I had the HC5000 (went through four of them) and currently have the TW1000. I've had the Epson for only one day now, so my opinions may change after a while.

What Mitsu has over Epson:
- Way way quieter, but not completely silent. Epson sounds like a small vacuum cleaner compared to the Mitsu. Also the knocking/rattling of the iris is louder in the Epson, but the iris wasn't completely silent on the Mitsu either!
- Better deinterlacing and scaling, but the deinterlacing was not nearly perfect IMO. Deinterlacing in the Epson isn't anything special, but luckily I don't have to use it. Also scaling isn't as good (via component), it tends to have more ringing and still less sharp than the job the Reon does.
- Sharper.
- Lens shift, zoom and focus done with remote, a big plus during installation.

And the other way around, Epson over Mitsu:
- Noticeably better black level in the Theatre black color modes, but it isn't as bright in these modes, so the comparison isn't completely fair.
- Almost invisible iris. I say almost because it's still possible to see a little "flash" when a scene changes if you're looking for it. But still much better than the iris the HC5000 has.
- No horizontal banding. The Mitsu had some remnants of this even with the newest firmware. But it wasn't that big of a deal, and nothing like the horrible banding in the first firmware.
- Nobody's reported about dust blobs yet.

Overall I like the PQ of the Epson better. If it doesn't gather dust blobs or anything else annoying turns up, it's definately a keeper.

Hey all. Got my projector from HK the other day and hooked it up a few nights ago to my Momitsu upscaling DVD player via component. Picture was pretty damn good. No convergence problems apparent even blowing the image up to 110". Unfortunately, no native HD content available to test it further, but it definitely wasn't DOA.

Unfortunately, I put it back in the box without testing the iris. I didn't know the default menu setting was "off." Should I unpack the sucker and test this out in light of the iris error messages being experienced by others? Or just wait the week for the installer to do his thing?

I think you'll be alright, but if you're worried at all, just plug it up and let it run for about 3 hours. I think once you're past that point you'll be OK.

JaniH

If you want to save yourself the hassle of dust blobs, get a 3M furnace or airconditioning filter. they aren't restrictive, and they are very effective filters. Cut out a section just larger than the air intake on the bottom of the PJ. Then Tape or Blue Tack it on. I did this with my Epson as the included filter is basically non existant. I think Epson puts very loose filters in to prevent clogging for the run of the mill consumer who will never pay attention to the fan.The filter seems excessively loose so there is the risk of dust getting in. If you are reasonable about your filter changes, I think it will save you any future hassles.

*disclaimer*

I did this on my PJ and it works. I ran the fan and then placed the extra filter on and could detect no change in sound or airflow. I would be careful to ensure that the filter you buy doesn't restrict airflow.

I know for me, if I got dust blobs, once I saw it, it would drive me mental..........(ie try for the next 30 seconds to not picture a white polar bear in your mind). The harder you try to concentrate on not concentrating the worse it is. Maybe It's just me!

Anybody else done this? The filter, not the bear thing.
Cheers
S

I am about to modify my Hitachi PJ TX200's air filter, or rather, cut a custom furnace air filter to fit. In order to test air flow, I may run it with it's normal stock joke of an air-filter, and then go into the service menu and check the temps. Then I will install my custom air filter and run it and check the temps again. If there is no significant change, it should be ok. Same thing should apply for the Epson or any other projector. One way to avoid restricing air flow when modding the air filter would be to increase the surface area of the air filter for higher flow. Not easy, but possible if you tinker.

So I got my TW1000 setup last night with my old 4:3 Dalite screen still in place and got a chance to see what this baby is capable of. First off let me say that I took Jacksonian's example and got my projector through Superfly77 and I couldnt have been happier with the transaction. I'm not affiliated with him in any way, but for those who are afraid of dealing with someone they dont know let me put your mind to rest. It was a fast and easy transaction with the added benefit of having him test the projector before sending it overseas. I couldn't be happier.

Caveat: I havent calibrated it yet, but my first reaction was that I was amazed at the black levels. I auditioned the Mitsu HC3000 (DLP) and Sony HS-60 in my setup a few months ago, and although both had excellent blacks I thought this projector was far better. The Sony had good blacks, but wasnt bright enough for my tastes, and the HC3000 had a great dynamic picture, but the rainbows were just killing me. Because of my experiences with those two proj. I had tempered my expectations before receiving my Epson. Let me say that I was very impressed right out of the box. In theatre 2 mode the colors were very natural yet still extremely "punchy" and dynamic. Yes the blacks werent "black" but if I wasnt looking at them in reference to my screen masking I would never have noticed. Screendoor is not even remotely an issue. Granted I'm coming from a 7 year old Sharp VGA beast. I had to walk right up to the screen to start counting pixels. Yes convergence isnt perfect (off by about 1 pixel, green on the left and red on the right) but after 2 ft of distance this was completely un-noticable, even on totally white screen images. I am running from an HTPC so I didnt really test any scaling. I downloaded some test patterns and over HDMI I am definitely getting 1:1 mapping.
I would rate my perceived impressions of the image contrast ratio as second to only the CRT projectors I have seen (I havent seen the RS1 but I have seen the pearl). I ran multiple sources of HD (OTA, Comcast, saved files) and I was able to make out details in dark scenes quite well and the difference between concurrent dark and light areas was significantly better then previous generation LCD (Panny 900 I bought for my uncle.) The one perceptible negative to me was the operation of the Iris. When switching between applications in windows or bringing up a menu on a mostly black background I could definitely optically see the iris working and I could also hear it working. Now my old projector sounded like a snoring fat uncle so I shouldnt be picky about noise, but given that the epson is relatively quiet the occasional twitching of the Iris was annoying to me. I'll second another poster's comments in that I just shut it off and I was happy with the contrast. I also tried varying the ambient light level in the room (total control) and I felt that the brightness of the projector definitely allowed for some ambient light without ruining the image.
I'm certainly not an ISF engineer and I've been using clearly subjective measurements with alot of hyperbole here, but I am very impressed with this projector's abilities in my setup. With it's great colors, excellent blacks and shadow detail, puny pixels (and high D6 fill ratio), and good brightness I cant see spending thousands more for something else. For the price this thing is simply an amazing viewing experience. I certainly could conceive of it being better, but I for one am not going to pay for it. I've been lurking on these forums for 5 years waiting to buy a new projector and I am very happy with my purchase.
One other thing I have changed my mind on: Screen materials really do make a major difference. I have samples from Dalite, Stewart, and Elite all taped up to my Model B pulldown and each one is very unique. I have decided that the "sparklies" in the Firehawk G3 and the Dalite gain screens are unwatchable for me. I think I prefer the matt white surfaces to the gray or high gain screens, and the Stewart Studiotek 130 really is the best material I have ever seen. Unfortunately this is another one of those bummer moments where you discover that what you like best is out of your budget. Luckily my wife agreed with my observations so maybe some sweet talking will get her to sign the P.O. :D

Thanks for reading my uneducated ramblings!

JaniH

If you want to save yourself the hassle of dust blobs, get a 3M furnace or airconditioning filter. they aren't restrictive, and they are very effective filters. Cut out a section just larger than the air intake on the bottom of the PJ. Then Tape or Blue Tack it on. I did this with my Epson as the included filter is basically non existant. I think Epson puts very loose filters in to prevent clogging for the run of the mill consumer who will never pay attention to the fan.The filter seems excessively loose so there is the risk of dust getting in. If you are reasonable about your filter changes, I think it will save you any future hassles.

*disclaimer*

I did this on my PJ and it works. I ran the fan and then placed the extra filter on and could detect no change in sound or airflow. I would be careful to ensure that the filter you buy doesn't restrict airflow.

I know for me, if I got dust blobs, once I saw it, it would drive me mental..........(ie try for the next 30 seconds to not picture a white polar bear in your mind). The harder you try to concentrate on not concentrating the worse it is. Maybe It's just me!

Anybody else done this? The filter, not the bear thing.
Cheers
S

I've done this with all my digital projectors. It really cuts down on blobs, just make sure you don't use a filter material that restricts airflow too much or you'll have heat problems...

I have just mounted this Epson TW1000 on my ceiling.
Throw the image on 134" screen.
Picture looks OK.
Everything is OK.

My problem:
I have used almost full upward vertical len-shift.
But I got a picture that smaller in width at the TOP of my screen (trapezium shape)
I need to adjust it with some kind of "Keystone" correction to stretch it wider.

My silly question:
There is no keystone correction on menu.
I can not find it. Or I miss something?


Need help for quick fix.

Thanks :eek:

cpc: i would be very cautious with this, i did something similar with my TX100 and evidently the cooling was not efficient enough after this and heat damaged the panels. I have now a big greenish part in center of the image, that can´t be regulated out even in the service menus shading control). If you pj is not under warranty it is better to clean it, as to play with the cooling. here:http://www.avforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=267322 or here in German , i actually used this guide, because sche is easier):http://www.hifi-forum.de/viewthread-94-3987.html . But only when you pj is not under warranty, you lose warranty when you open it!

I have just mounted this Epson TW1000 on my ceiling.
Throw the image on 134" screen.
Picture looks OK.
Everything is OK.

My problem:
I have used almost full upward vertical len-shift.
But I got a picture that smaller in width at the TOP of my screen (trapezium shape)
I need to adjust it with some kind of "Keystone" correction to stretch it wider.

My silly question:
There is no keystone correction on menu.
I can not find it. Or I miss something?


Need help for quick fix.

Thanks :eek:

How high above the screen are your mounting your TW-1000? The maximum vertical lens shift is 96%. You have to be mounting your projector way above your screen for vertical lens shift to be insufficient or else you must be using a lot of lateral lenshift. That would limit your amount of vertical lens shift.

There is no digital keystone adjustment in the TW-1000. Of course, it's perhaps best not to use digital keystone anyway if at all possible as it would affect image quality.

Your best solution if maximum vertical lens shift is not sufficient would be to lower your projector mount a bit.

Good news!! My "black beauty" arrived two days ago as well!

I ordered in parallel a German Pay TV HD channel and the over all performance is simply excellent with some minor deinterlacing problems.

Blacklevel is simply the best i've seen so far on a 3LCD pj. Hard to compare with other DLP pj's since I saw only an old NEC HT410 on my brand bnew screen at home in the same environment.

I got my unit pre calibrated and the colors look simply amazing.

The JVC HD1 looks in terms of blacklevel and over all image quality better - no doubt about this. But the difference is rather small I'd guess.

My Setup is 113" tension silverscreeen with gain 1.3 and optics in wide setting + eco mode for the lamp.

Image brightness is absolutely fine with lamp low in theatre black 2!!

The fan noise is IMHO just fine in low lamp mode but I would really not like it if i had to use the high lamp mode. This would be for me a no go on this fine machine.

The dynamic mode is IMHO something for living room soccer competition or any other party related activity with lights still turned on.

The TW1000 comes with a three year warranty and pre calibrated in Germany (from some dealers) for a list price of 3,499.- EUR including tax => no need to go down the road of self importing it from Japan or HongKong. EPSON seem to have reacted and changed the price down to a reasonable level!

So far I am really pleased with the performance and I will continue testdriving the pj for the next coming days.

vbr <=> jo-1

How high above the screen are your mounting your TW-1000? The maximum vertical lens shift is 96%. You have to be mounting your projector way above your screen for vertical lens shift to be insufficient or else you must be using a lot of lateral lenshift. That would limit your amount of vertical lens shift.

There is no digital keystone adjustment in the TW-1000. Of course, it's perhaps best not to use digital keystone anyway if at all possible as it would affect image quality.

Your best solution if maximum vertical lens shift is not sufficient would be to lower your projector mount a bit.

Hi Roland,

I am not saying the Epson vertical lens shift is not sufficient, it is OK, I still have some reserve.

What's annoying me is due to vertical lens shift, the image becomes trapezium form (top narrower, bottem wider), it is about 20 cm less on top at each side left and right.
MY Epson lens center is positioned about 32 cm below top edge of my screen. That should be Ok, isn't it? That is the same position for my Z4 mounting.
My Z4 has keystone correction! This will be easily solved.

So how to fix this ? just make image over spill at right and left side to feel the gap on top left and right? :eek:

Good for you jo-1!

Since I don´t have any hd source yet, I have my Oppo 971 in either 540p or 720p mode through hdmi; that pretty much takes care of deinterlacing problems, and produces the sharpest images, as well.

Black level on gray screen is pretty impressive even without iris, at least in low lamp power. I wouldn´t use it on black&white films, ´cause that´s where it´s clearly noticeable. When the iris is at work, it casts areas of different color temperature moving up and down the screen. But you can hardly notice that shift on color films, and it certainly is beneficial with darker material.

Thanks, Epson, for all the calibration possibilities, all accessible to the consumer. It wasn´t too complicated to make it track 6500K in theatre 2, and the image doesn´t get too dim, either, not even in low lamp power. Granted, my room is light controlled.
It would be interesting to see what´s on offer in the service menu...

Fan noise is silent enough. My "hush box" is open from above, so it hardly is one, but almost any sound in the soundtrack will take your attention away from the fan and the knocking iris. The pj is placed 3ft above and 2ft behind my head.

As I wrote before, convergence isn´t perfect. My screen is 92" diagonal, viewing distance is 10ft, and you can see the color fringing above and below an image, if you want to. Green above, magenta below. Also, there is some shading : left half is slightly red, while right half is slightly green, but that´s really for those who watch test patterns only.

All in all, much has happened since my Sony VW11HT, and for the better. For now, I´m gonna watch lots of movies and enjoy. Time will tell if those little cons will call for any action.

Hi Roland,

I am not saying the Epson vertical lens shift is not sufficient, it is OK, I still have some reserve.

What's annoying me is due to vertical lens shift, the image becomes trapezium form (top narrower, bottem wider), it is about 20 cm less on top at each side left and right.
MY Epson lens center is positioned about 32 cm below top edge of my screen. That should be Ok, isn't it? That is the same position for my Z4 mounting.
My Z4 has keystone correction! This will be easily solved.

So how to fix this ? just make image over spill at right and left side to feel the gap on top left and right? :eek:

Is your projector and screen level with one another? Sounds like maybe one or both are at a slight angle in relation to each other. The whole point of mechanical lens shift is to avoid what your seeing and to avoid using keystone.

If your screen is plum(all sides are the same distance from the wall) then check your pj. If your image is narrower at the top that means the lens is tilting down slightly.

Good luck,
Ken

edit:
if your pj and screen are level and plum then you might have a problem in the pj if the shift is causing the keystoning. One way to maybe "get by" is to tilt the pj to reduce the trap effect. In your case tilt the lens up a bit(re-adjust lens shift also).
However if you determine the shift is causing the problem then I'd have it serviced.

Is your projector and screen level with one another? Sounds like maybe one or both are at a slight angle in relation to each other. The whole point of mechanical lens shift is to avoid what your seeing and to avoid using keystone.

If your screen is plum(all sides are the same distance from the wall) then check your pj. If your image is narrower at the top that means the lens is tilting down slightly.

Good luck,
Ken

edit:
if your pj and screen are level and plum then you might have a problem in the pj if the shift is causing the keystoning. One way to maybe "get by" is to tilt the pj to reduce the trap effect. In your case tilt the lens up a bit(re-adjust lens shift also).
However if you determine the shift is causing the problem then I'd have it serviced.

As I said, the lens shift is OK both vertical and horizoltal.
Center of Pj lens is 32 cm (1 ft) below top of screen, and the pj is about 20 degree dowmward from level lime. this should be a normal mounting, Isn't it?

Even if I make the projector level, it still about 10 - 15 cm (6") below the screen, is it not OK?

Pj lens is about 4.20cm (165"0 from screen (shorter distance)

Thanks for any inouts.

iwanrs,
Your problem has nothing to do with the lens shift or the projector itself. Your projector is not level with your screen. That's why you have a trapezoid. Your projector is angled down in relation to the perpendicular of your screen.

You do NOT need keystone. You just need to level your projector in relationship to your screen.

iwanrs,
Your problem has nothing to do with the lens shift or the projector itself. Your projector is not level with your screen. That's why you have a trapezoid. Your projector is angled down in relation to the perpendicular of your screen.

You do NOT need keystone. You just need to level your projector in relationship to your screen.

I dunno, I'm having a heck of a time getting my image perfectly rectangular (with Epson 810). I'm also using vertical lens shift -- and I think it does effect things somewhat. I finally got top and bottom parallel, but I also ahve the trapezoid at the top. I'm the only one who would notice, but it is still annoying. You really only notice on images with black bars on the sides -- but I would rarely watch any such material on the projector.

Read this ongoing thread in the 810 tweak thread regarding positioning issues:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=10082473&&#post10082473

iwanrs,
Your problem has nothing to do with the lens shift or the projector itself. Your projector is not level with your screen. That's why you have a trapezoid. Your projector is angled down in relation to the perpendicular of your screen.

You do NOT need keystone. You just need to level your projector in relationship to your screen.

Ok Jackson, I try that trick:
Level the Projector to screen, or 90 degree to sceen. Hope this works. Will let you know.

Thanks

Ok Jackson, I try that trick:
Level the Projector to screen, or 90 degree to sceen. Hope this works. Will let you know.

Thanks

Yes that's what I was trying to say above. :) Pj should be at a perfect 90 degrees to the screen. Any deviation will cause the trapazoid effect.

Thanks KenWH and Jackson, it is fix now, I level the Epson and the trapezoid is GONE! Wunderbar! I am a happy man, as happy as...well an Epson owner!

But one thing is weird though:
Now, my zoom setting is at the maximum end (shortest distance), and the image's size is just right or enough to fill in the screen from top to bottom (vertically). I mean really "just enough".
But I have about total 3" bigger or overspill image from left to right (horizontally).
My screen is 134" diagonal in size.

Any tool to fix this.

Now you need to get the pj 90 degrees horizontally to the screen.

Now you need to get the pj 90 degrees horizontally to the screen.

WOW, that's a tough one! How I do that. it's "looks" 90 degree to me . . . :confused:

Measure from the screen to each front corner of the pj. Or just simply turn the pj so the overspill is equal on both sides. Then you can adjust the zoom so the image fits the screen properly.

The key is to get the pj lens parallel to the screen both vertically and horizontally.

EDIT:
Even if it looks close a little deviation from parallel can make a big difference on where the image falls on the screen.

Measure from the screen to each front corner of the pj. Or just simply turn the pj so the overspill is equal on both sides. Then you can adjust the zoom so the image fits the screen properly.

The key is to get the pj lens parallel to the screen both vertically and horizontally.

EDIT:
Even if it looks close a little deviation from parallel can make a big difference on where the image falls on the screen.

It would be nice if there was some way to do this electronically, so you could smoothly go in small increments in the various planes with the mounted projector.

Its devilish trying to get it perfect -- because you are dealing in 3 dimensions.

Some sort of mount with mechanical/electronic movement to align the projector -- that would be sweet.

Part of the problem is that the lens shift is not smooth, and its hard to do in tiny increments. Also, I notice that going up or down will sometimes move it side to side a little too. The lens shift mechanism is not good for fine movement.

I have very bad experience making the projector properly aligned in term of level and 90 degree to screen surface.

I have also tried to measure the same distance from projector to corner of screen, but if the distance is longer than 5 meters (17 ft), the exact measurement is painstakingly difficult, not to mention accuracy!

Any better method to align 90 degree of pj? Any practical suggestions?

Fair enough. What I may do is just cut filter material to fit in behind around the outside where it doesn't appear to seal properly.

Who has the most hours so far and how is the dust blob situation ? :cool:

cpc: i would be very cautious with this, i did something similar with my TX100 and evidently the cooling was not efficient enough after this and heat damaged the panels. I have now a big greenish part in center of the image, that can´t be regulated out even in the service menus shading control). If you pj is not under warranty it is better to clean it, as to play with the cooling. here:http://www.avforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=267322 or here in German , i actually used this guide, because sche is easier):http://www.hifi-forum.de/viewthread-94-3987.html . But only when you pj is not under warranty, you lose warranty when you open it!

Any better method to align 90 degree of pj? Any practical suggestions?
It can be very tedious. I know mine is not 100% perfect. My wife finally said, "ENOUGH!, no one will ever notice it besides you!"

I think that's what's great about those mounts with a ball-joint type action, you can adjust the left/right/pitch/yaw any direction you need to square it to the screen.

Thanks KenWH and Jackson, it is fix now, I level the Epson and the trapezoid is GONE! Wunderbar! I am a happy man, as happy as...well an Epson owner!

But one thing is weird though:
Now, my zoom setting is at the maximum end (shortest distance), and the image's size is just right or enough to fill in the screen from top to bottom (vertically). I mean really "just enough".
But I have about total 3" bigger or overspill image from left to right (horizontally).
My screen is 134" diagonal in size.

Any tool to fix this.
You can use the "trial and error" method. First, be sure your screen is truly a correct 16:9 ratio. (Measure the screen white area's width and height. Divide the height in inches by nine, multiply that number by sixteen, and the answer should equal the width in inches.) Next... If you have a picture "three inches too wide", move the projector so that the picture is, maybe, three inches to the left, then use the lens shift to center it on the screen again. Now, is it more than three inches too wide, or less? More means you made the problem worse; less means you are closer to fixing it. If you made it worse, move the picture maybe six inches to the right (by moving the projector, then re-center with lens shift); if you made it better, move the picture two more inches to the left, and so on.

Also, not every signal will have an exact 16:9 displayed picture area. Look at different signals, from different sources and devices, and you may find that there are some differences.

Thanks folks, I will do anything in my power to make it "perfect" !

Now, As I've just finish mounted my Epson, It will be intersting if we convert this thread to

" TWEAKING for BEST PICTURE QUALITY, according to every individual Epson owners"

Tweaking/setting base on std DVD and High Definition DVD (HD-DVD and Blu-ray) viewing. With some explanations are wellcome!

I start with Rolandlim setting: (I think it is OK for Rolandlim to post it):

For playing Blu-ray via hdmi with PS3, my settings are:-
Theater Dark 2
Brightness 1
Contrast 2
Saturation 5
Tint -3
Color temp 6500K

For playing HD-DVD via component with Xbox 360:-
Theater Dark 2
Birghtness 2
Contrast -9
Saturation 2
Tint -7
Color temp 6500K

WHO"s NEXT, as many as possible, please.

THANKS :) :) :)

Iwan,

Of course it's Ok for you to post my settings. How are you finding your new TW-1000 now hat you have gotten it all set up?

Roland

P.S. some other forum member is arriving in Hong Kong tonight. He PM me last week about wanting to get a TW-1000 while in Hong Kong. I tried to called a few shops and the main distributor for him. Apparently, the TW-1000 is still in very high demand and selling like hotcakes. they were all out of stock and the next batch won't be in until mid April and most have already been pre-ordered.

Roland,

From March edition of HdAV I read, there is a JVC HD1 launching party on last Sat 03/24 in Hong Kong, did you manage to have a look?

As for Epson, I am very please with my choise of 1080p pj.

The very first impression was very solid bult ( metalic black like InFocus SP777) and the COLOR of picture is so rich and vivid.

The brightness is also much more than what I get from my Sanyo Z4.

I watched "Flying Dagger" Blu-ray last night, well the overall picture quality including the black is one of the best I've seen, it is like watching an entire new movie! I enjoyed the picture so much forgot to follow the story line! Well I watch this movie before anyway, not a problem. There must be a very advance (and much more $) 1080p pj out there to out shine this Epson. RS1 maybe?

I have not explored all the setting possibility, I will enjoy every minutes of this Epson performance in the mean time.

Could someone give me a good description of what to look for for convergence issues. Will the pixels be offset vertically or horizontally? Will it look like a vertical shadow, or will there be color discrepencies around the edge of pixels?

Is there a FAQ for this?

Thanks in advance.

Roland,

From March edition of HdAV I read, there is a JVC HD1 launching party on last Sat 03/24 in Hong Kong, did you manage to have a look?

As for Epson, I am very please with my choise of 1080p pj.

The very first impression was very solid bult ( metalic black like InFocus SP777) and the COLOR of picture is so rich and vivid.

The brightness is also much more than what I get from my Sanyo Z4.

I watched "Flying Dagger" Blu-ray last night, well the overall picture quality including the black is one of the best I've seen, it is like watching an entire new movie! I enjoyed the picture so much forgot to follow the story line! Well I watch this movie before anyway, not a problem. There must be a very advance (and much more $) 1080p pj out there to out shine this Epson. RS1 maybe?

I have not explored all the setting possibility, I will enjoy every minutes of this Epson performance in the mean time.


I did not go to the RS1 launch party. Firstly, my wife's brother was getting married this past wekend, and I couldn't go anyway, and they were to allow 100 guests to view the RS1. Unless if one could get seated on the first few rows, I doubt one could see much.

Anyway, there are already report of that event. They compared the RS1 to the Pearl side by side. Unfortunately, the venue was too crowded with a lot of people standing up. So most people couldn't even saw the screen. It was a very poorly hosted and event apparently. there were people arguing and shouting at each others because they were fighting to get a good view..... I guess it's just as well I didn't go.

Well, I am glad you like the TW-1000. Just enjoy it now and forget about whether the RS 1 or some other projector will be much better :)

Thanks Roland, see you around in this thread.

One feature that is less favorable with Epson is that we can not change the screen format to other size/zoom, like to zomm cinemascope to fit full 16:9 screen, which Z4 can do.

How is the image sharpness of the TW1000 vs the previous 720p gen and the newer Mitsubishi HC5000? Has anybody done extensive comparing with the Mitsubishi? Since the Mits is the king of sharpness, I wonder how the Epson compares. I'd guess it's possibly better than the Pearl, but not sure how it compares to the Mits.

Epson just anounced a PowerLite Home Cinema 1080 with HDMI 1.3 for $2,999. Anybody have any idea how this is different from the PowerLite Pro Cinema 1080? The press release is here (http://www.prnewswire.com/cgi-bin/stories.pl?ACCT=104&STORY=/www/story/03-26-2007/0004553435&EDATE=)

Interesting...

Epson just anounced a PowerLite Home Cinema 1080 with HDMI 1.3 for $2,999. Anybody have any idea how this is different from the PowerLite Pro Cinema 1080? The press release is here (http://www.prnewswire.com/cgi-bin/stories.pl?ACCT=104&STORY=/www/story/03-26-2007/0004553435&EDATE=)

Epson has only make one 1080p model for the whole world so far and that's the TW-1000, the Pro Cinema 1080 is basically just a clone.

Looking at the specs of the newly announced Home Cinema 1080 from the press release so far, it looks exactly the same as the TW1000/Pro Cinema 1080. I would not be surprised if in fact the Home Cinema is exactly the same machine as the TW-1000. I would guess that it is the same as Pro Cinema 1080, but without the extra bulb and mount and with a less comprehensive warranty, and comes with white rather than black in color.

Maybe Epson US has finally com to their senses and priced the Home Cinema 1080 at the comparable price to the rest of the world. If it really turns out to be the same machine as TW-1000, then it would be great news for those living in US. No need to buy TW-1000 from Hong Kong or Japan anymore.

Epson has only make one 1080p model for the whole world so far and that's the TW-1000, the Pro Cinema 1080 is basically just a clone.

Looking at the specs of the newly announced Home Cinema 1080 from the press release so far, it looks exactly the same as the TW1000/Pro Cinema 1080. I would not be surprised if in fact the Home Cinema is exactly the same machine as the TW-1000. I would guess that it is the same as Pro Cinema 1080, but without the extra bulb and mount and with a less comprehensive warranty, and comes with white rather than black in color.

Maybe Epson US has finally com to their senses and priced the Home Cinema 1080 at the comparable price to the rest of the world. If it really turns out to be the same machine as TW-1000, then it would be great news for those living in US. No need to buy TW-1000 from Hong Kong or Japan anymore.

Well, if it is being released more widely after this press release then perhaps it will bring the price down in North America. Who knows.

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

Has anybody played with the zoom and throw of their Epson 1000 to determine how the zoom affects sharpness, contrast and lumens? Wide vs Tele etc?

Could someone give me a good description of what to look for for convergence issues. Will the pixels be offset vertically or horizontally? Will it look like a vertical shadow, or will there be color discrepencies around the edge of pixels?

Is there a FAQ for this?

Thanks in advance.
Others will I'm sure disagree, but I would encourage you NOT to go hunting for defects. Just enjoy the picture. If something is bad enough to bother you, you will see it without having to go hunt for it.

I'm a Maryland-based ISF calibrator. I'd like to offer anyone who is interested a free calibration of this projector. The only cost to you will be the round-trip shipping. If you live in the Washington D.C. area, I will come to you so there will be no shipping.

I have not yet seen this unit and I would like to get some experience with its calibration controls, which look to be extensive. This would help me with my calibration business and you get a free calibration out of the deal.

I'm on the up-and-up. I'm a regular contributor to AVS and you can look me up at the ISF web site.

Send me a PM if you are interested.

Now, As I've just finish mounted my Epson, It will be intersting if we convert this thread to

" TWEAKING for BEST PICTURE QUALITY, according to every individual Epson owners"

Tweaking/setting base on std DVD and High Definition DVD (HD-DVD and Blu-ray) viewing. With some explanations are wellcome!

I start with Rolandlim setting: (I think it is OK for Rolandlim to post it):

For playing Blu-ray via hdmi with PS3, my settings are:-
Theater Dark 2
Brightness 1
Contrast 2
Saturation 5
Tint -3
Color temp 6500K

For playing HD-DVD via component with Xbox 360:-
Theater Dark 2
Birghtness 2
Contrast -9
Saturation 2
Tint -7
Color temp 6500K

WHO"s NEXT, as many as possible, please.

THANKS :) :) :)

WHY ???

Nobody has ever "Tweaked" this Epson? Just plug in and hit the power button?

Come on, every tweak-posting is appreciate, even if your TWEAK is not out of this world!

It is interesting how people set their Epson, just for comparison! :confused:

WHY ???

Nobody has ever "Tweaked" this Epson? Just plug in and hit the power button?

Come on, every tweak-posting is appreciate, even if your TWEAK is not out of this world!

It is interesting how people set their Epson, just for comparison! :confused:


Iwan,

I think this thread is getting far too long for discussion on tweaking. Perhaps you should just start a new tweak thread, and others can continue general discussion about the TW-1000 here.

Iwan,

I think this thread is getting far too long for discussion on tweaking. Perhaps you should just start a new tweal thread, and others can continue general discussion about the TW-1000 here.

OK, I'll do it. Thanks

Tom, if I lived in D.C. I would buy one just to watch the process :-)

Well after all bitching, whining and complaining we did about Epson's US prices, it looks like they finally listened and did something about it.

Well after all bitching, whining and complaining we did about Epson's US prices, it looks like they finally listened and did something about it.

Maybe, is it available for less in the US now? May not help Canadians much. If we buy in Canada, the Epson prices here could still remain higher. If we buy from the US if they are lower we don't get the international warranty. Guess I'll have to do some research.