Now Building, pics further down


is it a good idea to use a sonosub for music only? I really like the easy building and big footprint, but is it a good idea??


I can get the buttkicker for $217 including shipping. I'd want to match that with a Sl-p 15". Standard stuff, but what would be the best way to wire it? The only soundsplinter 15 that is availible right now is the D4 :(.

How fast does the high-pass filter on the buttkicker roll off of 25hz? I'm thinking about using it if it is a kinda slow rolloff. some music (nine inch nails!) has sound that low.

Lastly, what sort of tuning should I go for?


edit:
Go down for pics.

I wouldn't mate the Rl-p with the Buttkicker..well at least not the D4, since you'd have to wire it for 2ohm use (not a good idea with the BKA, since it'd be sending out ~1900W at 2ohms).

You could just with the TC-2000 SVC like four or five of us here on AVS are doing. Its more expensive than the RL-p, but hell, you already get the buttkicker for $217 including shipping...

http://www.hometheaterhifi.com/volume_10_3/buttkicker-bka-1000-amplifier-9-2003.html

The 25Hz HP rolls off fairly quickly. Apparently it changes the natural FR from 1 or 2dB down at 15Hz, to ~8dB down at 15Hz. Naturally, the FR is 3-4dB down at 10Hz, 8-9dB down at 6Hz.

But hell, especially if you're using this for music only, you don't need a HP at all.

Oh hell yes. I just placed an order for the buttkicker amp for 149.99 plus $17 in shipping, new in box. Someone in Florida who was selling theirs on Amazon just made my day.


Now time for that TC-2000 I suppose. :D :D

Can someone give me recomended port tuning and enclosure size? Loud and accurate down to at least 23hz is what i'm looking for. Music, ya know?

Daaamn, that is a great deal.

The thing is, a larger enclosure/port tuning is actually ideal for music as well (when discussing vented subs, sealed is another matter).

I'd go with the standard 320liter, 6" port ~28" long. You'll have solid extension down to 14Hz or so. Max output in your room would easily reach 110dB+.

is it a good idea to use a sonosub for music only?
So there will be no movies watched with this sub at all?

So there will be no movies watched with this sub at all?


Movies will be watched, but I don't want to sacrifice music output for extra sub-20 output. Although I don't think I need to worry about that too much. Big tube = best of both worlds, amirite?


110db down to 14hz sounds nice, but any other designs that could give more output? Just for giggles :)

If you want max output, you dont want to tune so low(14hz).

If you want max output, you dont want to tune so low(14hz).

so then maybe 18hz tune with something like a 260L tube?

I would model this but I'm at work right now, doing "e-learning". :rolleyes:

Movies will be watched, but I don't want to sacrifice music output for extra sub-20 output. Although I don't think I need to worry about that too much. Big tube = best of both worlds, amirite?

110db down to 14hz sounds nice, but any other designs that could give more output? Just for giggles
Yes. It's kind of a catch 22 though. I asked if there would be any movie watching because if there wasn't, you could have gone much smaller and sealed, because the low end capabilities of the LLT wouldn't be utilized much if at all. That's not the only reason it's big though - I'll get back to that in a minute.

You can achieve a fair amount more output in the musical range with a more traditional ported sub - say 200 liters, 20hz tune, 1800 watts, and a 2nd order highpass at 18hz. It can actually play about twice as loud as the LLT above 24hz. The catch is that the higher tune allows the negative side effects that accompany port and filter use to taint the audible bass range. The larger enclosure and lower tune push these effects down low into the subsonic range and the driver is responsible for nearly all output in the musical range. Click on my "LLT explained" for a more detailed explanation.

You can go with something inbetween, say 250 liters, 18hz tune, 1500 watts, and a highpass at 16hz, but then you need to find a 16hz highpass and would want a different amp.

I guess the next question is how loud do you need to go?

The catch is that the higher tune allows the negative side effects that accompany port and filter use to taint the audible bass range. The larger enclosure and lower tune push these effects down low into the subsonic range and the driver is responsible for nearly all output in the musical range.
It's not very noticible, or is it?


You can go with something inbetween, say 250 liters, 18hz tune, 1500 watts, and a highpass at 16hz, but then you need to find a 16hz highpass and would want a different amp.
The highpass would just be used for movies though, right? With those crazy low tracks? I shouldn't have to worry about low frequencies with just music, and for movies I'll just turn down the volume in case if I don't make a highpass. Alternativly just use the 25hz one on the amp to protect the driver. I do want to stick with the amp though, it has plenty of power for a 3ohm load, the price was right and it's already on the way. I think I'll shoot for this 260L size.


I guess the next question is how loud do you need to go?
For music, it would be amazing to have something as loud as a concert. Movies I can't see myself listening to them much louder than whats in a normal theater.

You would reach the limits of your speakers (assuming you don't have a ridiculous speaker setup) before you'd reach the limits of your sub in terms of output, I believe.

Like Steve said:

"The catch is that the higher tune allows the negative side effects that accompany port and filter use to taint the audible bass range. The larger enclosure and lower tune push these effects down low into the subsonic range and the driver is responsible for nearly all output in the musical range."

I don't see why you would need more than 110dB of output with music...but I'd either go with a sealed unit (which many believe to be the only way to go, especially concerningmusic) or I'd go with the larger/low tuned route.

For music, it would be amazing to have something as loud as a concert. Movies I can't see myself listening to them much louder than whats in a normal theater.
Oh, that's it? :rolleyes: Concert levels for music and reference levels for movies lol - you definitely want the smaller enclosure with the higher tune.

The highpass would just be used for movies though, right? With those crazy low tracks? I shouldn't have to worry about low frequencies with just music, and for movies I'll just turn down the volume in case if I don't make a highpass. Alternativly just use the 25hz one on the amp to protect the driver. I do want to stick with the amp though, it has plenty of power for a 3ohm load, the price was right and it's already on the way. I think I'll shoot for this 260L size.
You don't want to use the 25hz filter. You'll probably be fine with movies if you don't go really loud like you mentioned. As for the amp, with max output being your goal, you could benefit from more power.

It's not very noticible, or is it?
Well I guess you'll find out :)
Hell, you may just want to build a basshorn, it seems like output is your main concern.


Willd, the TC 2000 in 320 liters with a 6" port that is 27" long with 900 watts should get you at least 113db peaks in room.

Willd, the TC 2000 in 320 liters with a 6" port that is 27" long with 900 watts should get you at least 113db peaks in room.

Hence why I said "Max output in your room would easily reach 110dB+."

I think we need to put this into perspective.

National Institute for Occupational Safety and Health (1998), the maximum exposure time at 85 dBA is 8 hours. At 110 dBA, the maximum exposure time is one minute and 29 seconds. If you must be exposed to noise, it is recommended that you limit the exposure time and/or wear hearing protection.

If he is listening to music at an average of 110dB for any significant length of time, he is seriously damaging his ears. I bet that the only hits peaks of 100-105dB when listening to music, at most. Why compromise, as you like to say, and go with a middle of the road vented sub?

If he really listens to music 99% of the time, he might as well just go with a sealed unit to acheive even lower GD, etc. Hell, SteveNN admitted that he preferred the sealed Rl-p to the vented for music only (of course, overall I believe he prefers his new sono enclosurs, but yeah).

In modeling, it appears that the 250l 18Hz tune only offers ~1.5-2dB more output in the 20-30Hz range, less above, and of course less below.

Hell, I guess bigger might as well be better.

If I need more output than 113, first tell me about hearing loss, then show me the saw I can use to cut the tube down to 260L.

The amp is putting out 900watts at 4ohms, so about 1200 at 3ohms? Considering that I've only used things like the asstastic Logitech 5.1 speaker sets, I'm probably going to enjoy the hell out of this thing.


Edit: I was typing as you were willd. I went and checked the Db charts and then figured that using the 320L enclosure is going to be just fine for me. Nine Inch Nails concerts are the only place where I'll risk my hearing. Now looking at what you said, a lower size won't be that big of a difference. Besides a huge ass enclosure will look awesome.

320L it is. Thank you all.
Once I get started I'll be sure to post pics.

Concerning the power output....the BKA won't actually see 3ohms. It'll be closer to 4. Max output of the BKA was tested, and found to be ~960W RMS at 4ohms.

Eitherway, the BKA amp seems to be a good match for the TC-2000. There are three of us (well now 4,including you) that are going with this combo on AVS. There may be more that I don't know about, but anyways....

Good luck!

If he is listening to music at an average of 110dB for any significant length of time, he is seriously damaging his ears. I bet that the only hits peaks of 100-105dB when listening to music, at most. Why compromise, as you like to say, and go with a middle of the road vented sub?
We are less susceptible to hearing loss with low frequencies. As for peaks, I have often wondered what the dynamic range is for regular old PCM?

If he really listens to music 99% of the time, he might as well just go with a sealed unit to acheive even lower GD, etc. Hell, SteveNN admitted that he preferred the sealed Rl-p to the vented for music only (of course, overall I believe he prefers his new sono enclosurs, but yeah).

In modeling, it appears that the 250l 18Hz tune only offers ~1.5-2dB more output in the 20-30Hz range, less above, and of course less below.
Ehh, the single driver sonosub is going to be more accurate than a sealed sub - how that relates to preference will vary from person to person. The 250 liter 18hz ported sub can offer a lot more than a 2db advantage in output because it allows for much more power without exceeding excursion. I'm seeing 118db levels with 1500 watts, which would make for reference level capability with one sub, just not as much extension. The 200 liter, 20hz sub with the 18hz filter and 2000 watts would allow for 120db levels, but even less extension. But the OP wouldn't want to get a new amp anyway, so it's moot.

The 250 liter 18hz ported sub can offer a lot more than a 2db advantage in output because it allows for much more power without exceeding excursion.

Of course, but that only matters if he was using more power, which is why I ignored it...since he has already purchased the BKA.

There are three of us (well now 4,including you) that are going with this combo on AVS. There may be more that I don't know about, but anyways
Are you counting me once or twice? I'm trying to find one of those $149.99 deals right now for my second sonosub!

Are you counting me once or twice? I'm trying to find one of those $149.99 deals right now for my second sonosub!

I don't think I was counting you at all. :D

Basically, there are 5 or more people currently building a TC-2000 sonosub (or two) right now. :)

I don't think I was counting you at all. :D

Basically, there are 5 or more people currently building a TC-2000 sonosub (or two) right now. :)

You're not counting me because I haven't produced any pictures for proof, huh? I've been taking them, just not sharing yet.

I just got an email from Heather today, that my TC-2000 is in the mail. I still need a few things from PE. :)

Anyone mind posting a shopping list from PE? I'm already looking through other threads getting an idea, but I never know what I might miss.

You're not counting me because I haven't produced any pictures for proof, huh? I've been taking them, just not sharing yet.

I just got an email from Heather today, that my TC-2000 is in the mail. I still need a few things from PE. :)

I didn't count you because I didn't remember you being on AVS. I knew you had a thread going on in HTGuide.

Just ordered my tc2000.

Now I'm stuck doing this. :D

Just ordered my tc2000.

Now I'm stuck doing this. :D

Congratulations. :D

congrats! Be sure to take alot of pics.

Finally got some work done. College + working can be a real time sink all the time.




Thar she is. TC-2000. Not pictured is the buttkicker.
http://v0rtex.powweb.com/strossos/subwaffle/P1080868.JPG


My workspace, of course I gotta have some music. Here are some super-sweet insignia speakers and a laptop.
http://v0rtex.powweb.com/strossos/subwaffle/P1080862.JPG


Oh hey, there is Raptor Jesus. What's playing?
http://v0rtex.powweb.com/strossos/subwaffle/P1080877.JPG


Did some cutting. Check out the cool rig I made for the router. That is a metal plate, bolted onto a crappy router, attached to a center axis of a piece of wood with a screw. It works.
http://v0rtex.powweb.com/strossos/subwaffle/P1080863.JPG


Another shot. That piece of wood underneith is very helpful for doing things, like spinning. The circle of wood spins quite easily.
http://v0rtex.powweb.com/strossos/subwaffle/P1080881.JPG

The secret! Washers... everywhere.
http://v0rtex.powweb.com/strossos/subwaffle/P1080871.JPG

and here...
http://v0rtex.powweb.com/strossos/subwaffle/P1080873.JPG

*too many images the forums say? Blah, next post please.*

As you have seen, there is dust everywhere. The fan blowing into a box with a vacuum cleaner bag as a exaust filter doesn't work as well as I would hope. But it still works enough to make a difference.
http://v0rtex.powweb.com/strossos/subwaffle/P1080865.JPG


See those holes in the metal plate? Each one is punched out for a different diameter of cutting. It's quite a nice way to "save" your settings.
http://v0rtex.powweb.com/strossos/subwaffle/P1080880.JPG

Pause for dust.
http://v0rtex.powweb.com/strossos/subwaffle/P1080876.JPG

Stack of wood, I think I almost got the hang of this. Too bad the router liked to bend back and mess up the perfect circle with small gashes.
http://v0rtex.powweb.com/strossos/subwaffle/P1080869.JPG

The actual adapter that came with the router wasn't secure enough, and let the whole thing jerk back like that. I finally figured out how to make sure this wouldn't happen anymore. AFTER cutting all the circles out.
http://v0rtex.powweb.com/strossos/subwaffle/P1080889.jpg


Got one piece of baffle cut, sorry for the blurred picture.
http://v0rtex.powweb.com/strossos/subwaffle/P1080885.JPG

Thanks to the weird idea from TC-sounds to put decimals in their inches and meaure the cutout diameter as 14.10", I was just hoping it wouldn't suck too much. Turned out very well. This is a view from under the driver and baffle. Tight fit!
http://v0rtex.powweb.com/strossos/subwaffle/P1080888.JPG


Thats it for now, time to go back to cutting and listening to The Fragile. And feel free make fun of mistakes I might have made, this is the first time I touched a router and I don't use tools too often anyways. But it's fun, damnit.

Shoot man, good job, thanks for the pics!!!!

Stayed up till 2 in the morning working last night.. back at it today.

Rounding over...
http://v0rtex.powweb.com/strossos/subwaffle/P1080890.JPG

Rounded over... oops. Ah hell, it looks good anyways.
http://v0rtex.powweb.com/strossos/subwaffle/P1080892.JPG

The groove for the sonotube to sit. It's 1/16th of an inch wider than the sono, but I figure that space can be used for sealing.
http://v0rtex.powweb.com/strossos/subwaffle/P1080894.JPG

Clamps, I got them from the tile store. :p
http://v0rtex.powweb.com/strossos/subwaffle/P1080895.JPG

The outer cap. The driver is a perfect fit inside.
http://v0rtex.powweb.com/strossos/subwaffle/P1080898.JPG
http://v0rtex.powweb.com/strossos/subwaffle/P1080897.JPG



What would be the cheapest way to paint the wood? I'd was thinking about some of that spray on truckbed stuff, but I really don't have any experience with paints to know better.
Now back to work.

Regarding paints, you'll need to put on a couple of coats of primer first. Then a few coats of the finished you desired. Looking good. Keep the pics coming....

Al,

Yeah, I just used primer in a spray-can, put at least 3 good coats on the top piece, sanded in between each coat, then did two coats of satin black paint, then a clear/satin acrylic protective finish. I really like how it turned out.

I'm planning on using 8 1-1/4 inch dowel pieces, about 4-5 inches long. A 1-1/4" cutting bit gave me the idea to recess the legs into the wood. This picture is just a little test on a small leftover.
http://v0rtex.powweb.com/strossos/subwaffle/P1080899.JPG


Looks like it will work fine.

http://v0rtex.powweb.com/strossos/subwaffle/P1080901.JPG







Sounds like a good paint scheme willd, I'll have to go to the hardware store. Hell, I still need to get binding posts and the port too. And I suppose bondo for fixing big gashes. So much to do!

Since the sonotube is at my house, and I am doing all this work in my mom's garage, I can't test as much as I like. But I just got back and the sonotube slits on the endcaps couldn't fit any better. I'm very happy about that.


For the bottom assembly, how should I go about attaching the legs to everything? I was thinking I would get 1.5 inch screws with a wide head and screw them through the outer piece of the endcap. I would then glue the other piece of the endcap on top of the screws. The legs would then be twisted/screwed into place onto the bottom endcap assembly and glued. After that is all done I would fit the baseplate to the legs and glue + screw things together. My only concern is it's only 3/4" mdf holding on to the screws, should I add a third layer and get longer screws or will I be fine as is?

Got all the work I needed to do in the garage done. Now I don't have to worry about that horrible cold front coming by tommorow and messing with everything. Now onto more sub.

Starting the port. I'm going to try using the router to make a stair-stepping port that will then be smoothed out with bondo. This is so I can use my 8" sonotube I got for seven dollars instead of the 45 dollar precision port.
The second cut around:
http://v0rtex.powweb.com/strossos/subwaffle/P1090001.JPG

Three cuts.
http://v0rtex.powweb.com/strossos/subwaffle/P1090002.JPG

All cuts on the outer cap are finished!
http://v0rtex.powweb.com/strossos/subwaffle/P1090004.JPG

Yes, I really am using children toys to make sure the inner-top-cap is aligned with the outer-top-cap.
http://v0rtex.powweb.com/strossos/subwaffle/P1090005.JPG

After cutting through the two layers of inner-top-cap, I ended up with this:
http://v0rtex.powweb.com/strossos/subwaffle/P1090007.JPG

It'll do nicely.
http://v0rtex.powweb.com/strossos/subwaffle/P1090008.JPG

MOre??

Take a look at that beefy port. That grill is from a 10" sub I just so happened break. Those crazy spots in the air are dust particles, everywhere..
http://v0rtex.powweb.com/strossos/subwaffle/P1090003.JPG

The ring for the port. It's a DAMN good fit. It not only supports it's own weight...
http://v0rtex.powweb.com/strossos/subwaffle/P1090009.JPG

but also the weight of 2 more chunks of mdf.
http://v0rtex.powweb.com/strossos/subwaffle/P1090011.JPG

Everything all together for the top assembly. Off to the glue factory.
http://v0rtex.powweb.com/strossos/subwaffle/P1090012.JPG


I was pretty happy with the test piece for the legs. Here we are on the final product.
http://v0rtex.powweb.com/strossos/subwaffle/P1090015.JPG

How ever shall I drill holes in the middle of these dowels? Ghetto rig saves the day again.
http://v0rtex.powweb.com/strossos/subwaffle/P1090017.JPG

Speaking of ghetto... check out my jig. Some of these are holes I used for the port flare, others are there for aerodynamic effect, like cheese in the wind.
http://v0rtex.powweb.com/strossos/subwaffle/P1090006.JPG

All the woofer stuff I'm taking back to my place. The cubic feet of dust can stay behind.
http://v0rtex.powweb.com/strossos/subwaffle/P1090018.JPG



That's all for now. Pictues of me glueing these things together would be about as interesting as watching glue dry. And that so happens to be what I'm doing next, along with exams untill tuesday.

For the bottom assembly, how should I go about attaching the legs to everything?
The method you describe soundss the same as what I did, except I wouldn't use glue when connecting the baseplate, just use screws. If you use glue, you'll never be able to take the baseplate off, and essentially, you'll never be able to get to the driver without cutting your tube in half. Glueing + screws should be fine for the bottom cap end though. I'd probably use longer screws too.

You'll need a scraper for that bondo.

Something like this....

http://www.users.bigpond.com/bcolliso/port-flares/50mm-scraper.jpg

slid into the port and rotated...

http://www.users.bigpond.com/bcolliso/port-flares/Srcraper.jpg

You'll need a scraper for that bondo.

Something like this....

http://www.users.bigpond.com/bcolliso/port-flares/50mm-scraper.jpg

slid into the port and rotated...

http://www.users.bigpond.com/bcolliso/port-flares/Srcraper.jpg


See that piece of wood sitting on the chair to the right of the dowels in the last pic? That's the ghetto-scraper. I got the idea to do a bondo port from a picture of that scraper. :)

That should do the trick....

Brought everything inside from the dreadful cold, and continued to glue. Here is where I stand:


The legs are recessed into the bottom cap and glued in place. It's damn secure already, but now to add in the huge screws.
http://v0rtex.powweb.com/strossos/subwaffle/100_2295.JPG

I'll have to glue the inner cap on top of this... so the screws are being recessed a bit. Sorry for the blur, but there is now a circle of mdf ontop of this.
http://v0rtex.powweb.com/strossos/subwaffle/100_2294.JPG

Bottom end cap, meet bottom innner cap. You two are going do a "special hug".
http://v0rtex.powweb.com/strossos/subwaffle/100_2296.JPG

The big-ass tube. 20" wide, almost 6 feet tall.
http://v0rtex.powweb.com/strossos/subwaffle/100_2297.JPG


Next up: fun with bondo AND huffing spray-on bedliner.

Any tips for bondo? I'm not to sure.

GREAT pics man!! Nice work! :)

Thanks! This is alot of fun. :)


I'm going to cauk the grooves that the sono sits in, but I'm worried about the fumes damaging the sub. I went to HD and couldn't find anything that had "low fumes" or a short curing time, and the stuff I have says it needs 7-16 days to cure. Should I be worried about these fumes doing damage? I might just be remembering this warning and forgetting it applies only for sealed subs, because those don't happen to have a nice 8" air port sawed out.

Ordered binding posts and disconnects, should be here on Wed. Gotta love same-state shipping from parts express.

Great work so far. Keep it up.

And no, don't worry about the fumes. They can't do a thing to the driver, at all.

Woah... almost finished. Today I got finished making the port and painting. And if you noticed a decline in the picture quality in the last update, blame the camera. I went from a decent 3mp pantex to a crap-ass 3mp kodak easyshit. So I apologize in advanced.


The port, bare wood.
http://v0rtex.powweb.com/strossos/subwaffle/P1090012.JPG


Bondo is fun. It's like I'm mixing icing, and tastes almost as good.
I'm having ever so much fun pretending like I'm icing the layers of a cake. Lots of icing... mmmm.
http://v0rtex.powweb.com/strossos/subwaffle/100_2298.JPG

And some more! Building up the bondo. I only waited about 5 minutes between "golfball sized" batches of bondo. It seemed safe enough.
http://v0rtex.powweb.com/strossos/subwaffle/100_2298.JPG

Ever so much fun.
http://v0rtex.powweb.com/strossos/subwaffle/100_2304.JPG

Sealing the port to the cap with liquid nails. More like liquid CANDY.
http://v0rtex.powweb.com/strossos/subwaffle/100_2302.JPG

Hammered in all the T-Nuts. I'm not all that worried that a 38 pound driver will pull out 8 T-Nuts straight through 1.5" of mdf. So screw something like a plywood layer, I'll do it like this. I also applied icing to the side of the cake. No one will ever know, but I had big gashes in the circle. Stupid underpowered router.
http://v0rtex.powweb.com/strossos/subwaffle/100_2303.JPG

Starting to paint. I got lazy (and poor) and went with just a spray-can of bedliner. For the 7 dollars it cost me, it worked really well. Here is the baseplate.
http://v0rtex.powweb.com/strossos/subwaffle/100_2305.JPG

Painting the bottom cap. Not that bad.
http://v0rtex.powweb.com/strossos/subwaffle/100_2306.JPG

Close up and blurry shot of the baseplate paint texture. Stupid camera can't macro for ****.
http://v0rtex.powweb.com/strossos/subwaffle/100_2307.JPG


Top cap, painted. Or, bedlined. I don't know.
http://v0rtex.powweb.com/strossos/subwaffle/100_2309.JPG


That's it until tommorow when the binding posts get here. Hopefully I can go buy some carpet and glue for the tube as well. Maybe some more bedliner as well, I have a few "learning spots" that I'd rather fix than turn to the corner. For anyone building a sonosub, I have to say that it helps so so much to know exactly how everything works and should be put together before even starting. To the point where you can rattle off how each piece of wood should be cut and put together in your head. It's a big help.

Willd: You got marine headliner from homedepot, right? How much did it cost and for what sizes? I can't find it on their website at all.

Willd: You got marine headliner from homedepot, right? How much did it cost and for what sizes? I can't find it on their website at all.

Not headliner, but Marine carpet. I don't think it is listed on their website, but your local HD should have it.

Found it at lowes. Was 26 dollars for 6'x6'. More pics tonight, I'm almost done. :D


I just need to find the right glue for the waxy coating inside the tube. I totally forgot about it when I was using spray adheasive with my polyfil, which of course fell off. The name started with a "L"? I have it written down somewhere...

I'm not all that worried that a 38 pound driver will pull out 8 T-Nuts straight through 1.5" of mdf. So screw something like a plywood layer, I'll do it like this
No, the driver won't pull the t nuts through the MDF, but that's not why plywood is used. It's used so that when you screw or unscrew the driver in or out of place, the t nuts don't come out of place. I'd suggest you attach the driver to the bottom cap before you attach the bottom cap to the tube, this way you can make sure you don't pop any t nuts out of place.

Also, you can just peel off the layer of wax paper in the tube so that any regular old adhesive will work.

No, the driver won't pull the t nuts through the MDF, but that's not why plywood is used. It's used so that when you screw or unscrew the driver in or out of place, the t nuts don't come out of place. I'd suggest you attach the driver to the bottom cap before you attach the bottom cap to the tube, this way you can make sure you don't pop any t nuts out of place.

Also, you can just peel off the layer of wax paper in the tube so that any regular old adhesive will work.



Well the driver is already in the endcap and no T-nuts came out, so no problems there.

A-peeling I will go.

More updates!

I've been too busy the last couple days to post. So sorry. I was busy listening to the sub. :D You'll have to sit through a few posts of building pics till I get to the good stuff.


Stopped by lowes, picked up this 6' by 6' carpet for $26, rubber backed but flexible. It should work well... right?
http://v0rtex.powweb.com/strossos/subwaffle/Picture 020.jpg


Carpet all layed out and smothered with some sort of glue. It was 4 dollar for a tub of it, in the carpet area.
http://v0rtex.powweb.com/strossos/subwaffle/Picture 023.jpg


Tube is filled with polyfil. Make sure to remove the wax off the inside or this stuff will just fall off. I found the best way to remove the wax is to score a line on one cardboard row and keep peeling.
All attached:
http://v0rtex.powweb.com/strossos/subwaffle/Picture 019.jpg

Polyfil on the top endcap.
http://v0rtex.powweb.com/strossos/subwaffle/Picture 022.jpg


Carpet rolled on after about 20 minutes waiting time with the glue. Don't worry that big ugly seam is going to be cut away.
http://v0rtex.powweb.com/strossos/subwaffle/Picture 025.jpg

MOER


Some sub grill I found, next to the port. It works just fine.
http://v0rtex.powweb.com/strossos/subwaffle/Picture 021.jpg


Some friend came over, saw what I was doing, and wanted to help. He's cleaning all that damned dust off the cone. We are about to put the speaker in.
http://v0rtex.powweb.com/strossos/subwaffle/Picture 024.jpg


Getting closer... check out those binding posts, just kinda messy but oh well.
http://v0rtex.powweb.com/strossos/subwaffle/Picture 026.jpg

Sub is locked in there. Wires are secured all over the damn place.
http://v0rtex.powweb.com/strossos/subwaffle/Picture 029.jpg

Another shot:
http://v0rtex.powweb.com/strossos/subwaffle/Picture 030.jpg


Here we go, put the tube on the base. Fits just fine... after a little force.
http://v0rtex.powweb.com/strossos/subwaffle/Picture 031.jpg

Same thing again
http://v0rtex.powweb.com/strossos/subwaffle/Picture 032.jpg

The top cap
http://v0rtex.powweb.com/strossos/subwaffle/100_2310.JPG

Bam, finished and in the corner.
http://v0rtex.powweb.com/strossos/subwaffle/100_2311.JPG



It works great. This sub kicks your ass and calls you names. Everything is just so tight. And god it can get loud. More impressions later, and maybe a video or two.

I have a question about the carpet.

What was the name and model number of it?
Where was it located in Lowes?
Was it on a roll or spool?

That looks like the same exact carpet I used.

I got my piece cut off of a big roll, l,ocated back with all the other carpet on the huge motorized racks. I think the name was "outdoor marine carpter (black)" or somesuch.

Here is the model number:

http://www.cincygeeks.com/strossos/subwaffle/tag.jpg
(114413)


Thanks willd for pointing me in the direction of this carpet initially.

nice! sh!t, looks like I got my sono covering down now...Will pointed me to that, and looks like it will be the winner! hehehe :)

cool thread

sthry, thanks for the info. Looks great by the way. ;)

Willd's carpet is what I too am on a mission to find. I have tried 5 local HD & Lowes stores and none have the black yet. Now mabe I can order some. :rolleyes:

Update: buttkicker amp died on me. One of the copper coils is covered in a black tar looking coating. The other one is prestine copper. The amp doesn't power on at all.

This is bad, yes. But buttkicker is a awesome company apparently. I just called them today, and they are going to send a replacement that will get here monday, and then I'll send the old one back. I love the way they handled it, ultimate customer satisfaction.


Well I forgot (too poor) to renew the DNS for my website, and now all the pictures arn't going to show up. Bah. The sub has kicked so much ass though, now I just need some new speakers.


edit: yes i'm sthry.

Are you running 2 ohms, 4 ohms or 8 ohms on the buttkicker?

Sounds like a short developed to me!

Are you running 2 ohms, 4 ohms or 8 ohms on the buttkicker?


About 4ohms. The drive is a SVC tc2000, advertised at 3ohms, but measures more around 4ohms.





I did leave the amp in standby most of the time. The manual I got said it was okay to do so, but after talking to the rep, it appears buttkicker is now recommending that the amps be shutoff when not in use. She mentioned it was like a car idling.

I'll post a picture later today, for the curious.

Huston!.. we got a problem! Pics aren't coming through?

I did leave the amp in standby most of the time. The manual I got said it was okay to do so, but after talking to the rep, it appears buttkicker is now recommending that the amps be shutoff when not in use. She mentioned it was like a car idling.

Hmm...that sucks. I've been leaving mine in standby for months now. Hmm...

Half serious half commical question Willd - have you noticed any trend of a slight increase in your power bill? :D

Since I am not paying it, no.

But I don't see how this thing in standby could be pulling much at all. The fact that I run my computer 24/7 is far worse.

:)

Since I am not paying it, no.

But I don't see how this thing in standby could be pulling much at all. The fact that I run my computer 24/7 is far worse.

:)Yeh It is class D isn't it?so at idle it should consume very little.

Yeh It is class D isn't it?so at idle it should consume very little.

Yeah, one would think.

I just treat it like one would treat an auto on/off feature on a plate amp.

I have two bka's and the one that i have on my shaker did the same thing but it was both coils and it was never on all the time. The other one for my sono has been working just fine and is left on all the time. One thing i noticed between the two is the one that burnt always ran warmer than the other and they are both in well ventilated area. IMOP the one that burnt was a lemon from the get go. It sure is good to know they stand behind their product. The one for my sono is always cool, i would suspect that if you have one that runs almost hot to touch it will be just a matter of time before it would need to be replaced.

The one for my sono is always cool,

Same here. It is hardly ever warm to the touch. A couple of friends came over and we watched a ton of demo material, and one of them put his hand on the amp and remarked "Wow, it is cool to the touch!".

T

The two coils, the one on the right is (obviously) damaged. And the cover right above the coil.

Thanks for the pics. It is quite easy to see what happened...

Yep, looks like the wires shellac finish on the coils failed and you had a meltdown.