Anyone somewhat local to Kansas City want to bring a pair of fathoms over to the KC blind shootout on Jan 14? We may have one f112 available, but likely not a pair. If so please shoot me a PM, or respond in the thread below.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1369860

I should have typed this F-113 instead of F-112! Does the tone sweep function properly when pressing the button?



It's been sometime I've done the calibration on the sub..But I did pressed it and the default button they were both red nothing happen.I think the mic supposed to be connected to work.

I got an email from JL so we can do some testing on the sub, I can't do anything at the moment as I'm with my 1 year old daughter making any it a bit difficult to go back of the sub, or simply near it.


Djoel

Anyone know how this sub compares to the SVS PC 13 Ultra? I have that currently but need a second sub. i was just going to get another PC13 but I should at least consider other brands. And different sizes make be more condussive to my design.

Will I notive a difference having one sealed and one ported?

Is this sub also capable of the sub 20hz frequences accurately?

Mixing ported and sealed speakers is generally not advisable. Ports will make it difficult to align the phase, so one sub may begin to cancel the other at certain freqs. The F112 and F113 are stellar performers in their rated range, but if you want full output down to 20hz (and a bit lower), you want a F113.

I've never heard the PC13, but judging by the specs, this sub wasn't really designed to operate sealed (but they seem to be providing port plugs for "sealed" operation). In my experience, there's just something special about subs like the Fathoms which are purely sealed designs. Obviously you loose some infrasound but, IMO, gain substantially in definition. They just sound right to me. Ports present technical challenges with respect to phase, so that may explain my preference.

Mixing ported and sealed speakers is generally not advisable. Ports will make it difficult to align the phase, so one sub may begin to cancel the other at certain freqs. The F112 and F113 are stellar performers in their rated range, but if you want full output down to 20hz (and a bit lower), you want a F113.

I've never heard the PC13, but judging by the specs, this sub wasn't really designed to operate sealed (but they seem to be providing port plugs for "sealed" operation). In my experience, there's just something special about subs like the Fathoms which are purely sealed designs. Obviously you loose some infrasound but, IMO, gain substantially in definition. They just sound right to me. Ports present technical challenges with respect to phase, so that may explain my preference.

Thanks for a great response and taking the time to look up the spec sheets on my existing sub. And you're correct that they no longer recommend using the sub in a sealed configuration.

If you ever get the chance to hear it give it a try. I listed to the JL13 inch sub at a store a week ago. I wasn't very impressed but I will say it was in a very very open room that had many other open rooms attached, and they said it was tuned to a low gain because they get customers in that are pure stereo music people so they have it tuned for that. I personally did not think it was giving me that movie feel that I've grown to love. THe explosions didn't pack a deep punch, it didn't seem to be hitting any low frequencies to give you that 'feel'

Thanks for a great response and taking the time to look up the spec sheets on my existing sub. And you're correct that they no longer recommend using the sub in a sealed configuration.

If you ever get the chance to hear it give it a try. I listed to the JL13 inch sub at a store a week ago. I wasn't very impressed but I will say it was in a very very open room that had many other open rooms attached, and they said it was tuned to a low gain because they get customers in that are pure stereo music people so they have it tuned for that. I personally did not think it was giving me that movie feel that I've grown to love. THe explosions didn't pack a deep punch, it didn't seem to be hitting any low frequencies to give you that 'feel'

That store is BSing you about turning it down.Typical mid fi salesperson answer. They should be honest with themselves and you. It is most likely due to the open architecture that is causing the issue. I bought a pair of F-113's specifically to listen to stereo music and also multi channel music and movies. I set it and ran ARO and was done. On the Blu ray disc Master and Commander the cannon scene on my system you can feel it in your chest when they are fired! They don't know how to demo equipment properly which is just my opinion. You don't have to turn it down for pure stereo, if the low level information is in the recording the subs will reproduce it. If there is no low level info they will remain quiet, if anything it adds realisim to the recording due to fundamental lows sometimes being lost due to the speaker not going low enough.Find another store that can demo or ask them to turn it up.They didn't try to demo a different sub instead of the Fathom did they?

FYI,

I should be getting a pair of F112's next week and I was researching on how to set phase on a sub. Setting phase on a sub is described on this link: http://www.soundandvisionmag.com/blog/2011/11/09/setting-subwoofer-phase-easy-way?page=0,0

I wanted to check if other JL Audio sub owners were setting the phase the same way...

FYI,

I should be getting a pair of F112's next week and I was researching on how to set phase on a sub. Setting phase on a sub is described on this link: http://www.soundandvisionmag.com/blog/2011/11/09/setting-subwoofer-phase-easy-way?page=0,0

I wanted to check if other JL Audio sub owners were setting the phase the same way...

That's what I did. If you're doing it without an SPL meter it may help to reverse the wires on the speaker....then you're listening for the quietest level, as that's easier to tell by ear.

FYI,

I should be getting a pair of F112's next week and I was researching on how to set phase on a sub. Setting phase on a sub is described on this link: http://www.soundandvisionmag.com/blog/2011/11/09/setting-subwoofer-phase-easy-way?page=0,0

I wanted to check if other JL Audio sub owners were setting the phase the same way...

While that method may work, it's going to be very difficult to be sure you have phase set perfectly. Given the investment made in subs, why not spend a few hundred on something like an OmniMic so that you can actually see the results. Not only will it ensure that you get the phase correct, it will prevent you from wondering if you have it set optimally via the "earball" or SPL meter methods.

I was surprised how much cancellation around the xover frequency I had from the SPL meter phase calibration when using the OmniMic, and how simple it was to get things dialed in with measurements. What took hours with the meter took less than 5 minutes with the OM.

Even though I bought my sub used, JL Support (Barry Ober) was very helpful in setup (once you've followed the very complete instructions in the manual). His recommended method is posted below, worked quick and easy for me. All of this can be done without additional equipment. Of course, a solution like OM is probably more appropriate considering your investment.

If your mains are equidistant, you can use this method:

Unhook one channel at the amp or preamp, so that only one channel and its corresponding sub will play. Reverse the speaker leads on the one main speaker that will play, so that it's out of phase with its sub. Play a test tone at the crossover frequency (between main & sub, where the tone should be equal volume from both sub and main), and adjust either the phase control on the sub or the distance of the sub in the processor so that you hear no sound. With no sound, the sub is in perfect phase with the main. Even if you minimize the dB level of the sound, you'll have phase adjusted as well as you can.

You can do this for each channel, playing only the one channel at a time. Since the mains are equidistant from the listening position, they will be in perfect phase, as long as you haven't set different distances for them in the processor.

I have 2 JL F113s in my system, and this is how I did it. Barry Ober, the chief consultant for JL, spent hours on the phone and email with me to thoroughly explain this process. I'd refer you to him (by calling JL) if you have more questions. He also sells a purpose-made CD with the test tones you'll need, if you don't have a source.

Hope this makes sense.

Lee
whatsbestforum dot com

While that method may work, it's going to be very difficult to be sure you have phase set perfectly. Given the investment made in subs, why not spend a few hundred on something like an OmniMic so that you can actually see the results. Not only will it ensure that you get the phase correct, it will prevent you from wondering if you have it set optimally via the "earball" or SPL meter methods.

I was surprised how much cancellation around the xover frequency I had from the SPL meter phase calibration when using the OmniMic, and how simple it was to get things dialed in with measurements. What took hours with the meter took less than 5 minutes with the OM.

I do have a Galaxy CM-140 spl meter that I normally use, but you are right... given the investment I would like to make sure I have it setup the best possible way... Hence, I agree that probably getting OmniMic would probably be the best way...

I will start looking into the OmniMic but my only concern is that I don't know how to use it and wonder how easy it is to run.

I was surprised how much cancellation around the xover frequency I had from the SPL meter phase calibration when using the OmniMic, and how simple it was to get things dialed in with measurements. What took hours with the meter took less than 5 minutes with the OM.

So I started looking at the manual for OmniMic and it seems straight forward but wanted to check which particular test checks phase ? Is it the "Frequency Response - Advanced Mode" ?

My understanding was to check the phase you need to play a sine wave at your crossover ie 80Hz, but checking their included Test Signal CD, it does not have a 80Hz Tone.

You can also use Room Equalization Wizard(REW), and it does whole room calibration as well.

Update:

So I received my pair of F112's 2 days ago and I've been playing around dialing in the phase, changing speaker distance, running ARO & Audyssey XT32.

For testing, I used my SPL meter (Galaxy CM-140) and used REW.

I ran many permutations... but in the end I found I got the flattest response with the following steps:
1. Set Phase by setting highest SPL in main listening position.
2. Run Aro
3. Run Audyssey XT32

This got me the flattest response...

I was about to buy XTZ room analyzer but decided to wait until I played around a bit... Ultimately, it seems that running Audyssey last seems to give a better frequency response... hence doesn't seem like it makes sense to buy XTZ ?

If you have the flexibility of locating your subs, put one sub where you sit (sofa) and move your SPL meter around instead,...of course disable all audio enhancements in your processor and sub FIRST! Use REW to obtain the smoothest response sweep without your mains connected, then integrate your mains. I always optimise my mains first in the room before blending in a sub.

If you have the flexibility of locating your subs, put one sub where you sit (sofa) and move your SPL meter around instead,...of course disable all audio enhancements in your processor and sub FIRST! Use REW to obtain the smoothest response sweep without your mains connected, then integrate your mains. I always optimise my mains first in the room before blending in a sub.

I actually bought a CD from JL Support (Barry Ober), where you play one of the tracks on a CD disk to do a crawl-around test to check best sub placements. I placed one of the subs not on top of my sofa but next to it facing foward. I probably should have used my SPL but instead used my ears as recommended by Barry.

BTW, when you moved around with your SPL was there a particular sine wave you used to check your db levels ?

Eventually, I placed subs where it was most convinient vs best sub placement. I found that Audyssey works its magic very well.

My current microfiber sofa was damaged by my daughter and I'm getting delivery of a leather sofa next weekend. There may be some difference from going from a microfiber sofa to a leather sofa... so I'll probably retest when I get it.

Also, when using REW, I get a very annoying noise probably due to my poor sound card on my laptop. Probably cheaper to buy a USB soundcard to fix this but at the same time, would be nice to buy XTZ ? At the same time... my pre pro (DHC-80.3) is not Audyssey installer ready for Pro Kit version... My understanding is that they will fix it this month... and wonder if it would be better to buy Pro Kit better... Since I have seen that XT32 works much better than ARO... I wonder how much better is the PRO kit vs XT32.

Yeah I think JL would rather not me use UPS, I had a censor issues a few years back and I was just reading some of the emails exchanges and they had mention to use Fedex. That's going to make it a whole lot more difficult.

Well the sub is a whole lot older than the 3 year warranty period :rolleyes: So I'm screwed there. Is it possible it might just be a fuse, and if that's the case where would one put a fuse in this thing? I don't recall seeing any easy way of getting inside the sub.

Djoel

You might need to replace the driver. You wouldn't think something like that would happen to a 4K sub.

You might need to replace the driver. You wouldn't think something like that would happen to a 4K sub.



It could happen to anything, even Rolls-Royce break down, come now:rolleyes:..

Djoel

You might need to replace the driver. You wouldn't think something like that would happen to a 4K sub.

You must not have owned a lot of high end equipment before? I have had a Audio Research Classic 120 amp blow up before and also a blew an amp inside a REL Stentor III subwoofer. Both cheap and well made items fail. Try that line next time you take your car to a mechanic and wait for the reply.

I actually bought a CD from JL Support (Barry Ober), where you play one of the tracks on a CD disk to do a crawl-around test to check best sub placements. I placed one of the subs not on top of my sofa but next to it facing foward. I probably should have used my SPL but instead used my ears as recommended by Barry.

BTW, when you moved around with your SPL was there a particular sine wave you used to check your db levels ?

Eventually, I placed subs where it was most convinient vs best sub placement. I found that Audyssey works its magic very well.


My current microfiber sofa was damaged by my daughter and I'm getting delivery of a leather sofa next weekend. There may be some difference from going from a microfiber sofa to a leather sofa... so I'll probably retest when I get it.

Also, when using REW, I get a very annoying noise probably due to my poor sound card on my laptop. Probably cheaper to buy a USB soundcard to fix this but at the same time, would be nice to buy XTZ ? At the same time... my pre pro (DHC-80.3) is not Audyssey installer ready for Pro Kit version... My understanding is that they will fix it this month... and wonder if it would be better to buy Pro Kit better... Since I have seen that XT32 works much better than ARO... I wonder how much better is the PRO kit vs XT32.



>>The CD from JL is for optimizing phase between sub and mains,...You can do the same thing with REW by using the built in signal generator and selecting your crssover frequency.

>>I use an RS SPL meter connected to my computer via RCA as a calibration mic (loaded compensation file) and use REW to run frequency sweeps as I move the SPL meter with my sub in my seating location. I also have a calibrated Behringer ECM8000 measurement mic as well for fine tuning.

>>Sometimes we have to compromise for WAF versus best location :) Thing is you want to use the best location possible to lessen/avoid unnecessary "processing" via Audyssey.

>>There are very good usb sound cards that are much easier to use with REW than some built in laptop sound cards,...once you can load the compensation file for it,...your good to go.

>>The CD from JL is for optimizing phase between sub and mains,...You can do the same thing with REW by using the built in signal generator and selecting your crssover frequency.

>>I use an RS SPL meter connected to my computer via RCA as a calibration mic (loaded compensation file) and use REW to run frequency sweeps as I move the SPL meter with my sub in my seating location. I also have a calibrated Behringer ECM8000 measurement mic as well for fine tuning.

>>Sometimes we have to compromise for WAF versus best location :) Thing is you want to use the best location possible to lessen/avoid unnecessary "processing" via Audyssey.

>>There are very good usb sound cards that are much easier to use with REW than some built in laptop sound cards,...once you can load the compensation file for it,...your good to go.

Yes, the CD from JL is to optimize the phase between sub & main... How did you use REW to set up phase ? Using REW, I was playing around with RTA and played their PN noise which gave you frequency response in realtime... but I had to crank sound up to give me results. In the end... I basically got highest SPL from main seating position and then ran Audyssey. But I found that in some scenarios after running Audyssey it got really bad results but after flipping the polarity of one of the subs I got good results.

Yes, I really do need to buy an external USB sound card to use REW. The noise I get is really annoying.. I was holding off to buying sound card because I thought I would be buying XTZ but I think REW is enough for me... ?

It could happen to anything, even Rolls-Royce break down, come now:rolleyes:..

Djoel

Yes, I suppose you are correct about that..

Yes, I suppose you are correct about that..

I'm glad you see it my way;)

Djoel

Yes, the CD from JL is to optimize the phase between sub & main... How did you use REW to set up phase ? Using REW, I was playing around with RTA and played their PN noise which gave you frequency response in realtime... but I had to crank sound up to give me results. In the end... I basically got highest SPL from main seating position and then ran Audyssey. But I found that in some scenarios after running Audyssey it got really bad results but after flipping the polarity of one of the subs I got good results.

Yes, I really do need to buy an external USB sound card to use REW. The noise I get is really annoying.. I was holding off to buying sound card because I thought I would be buying XTZ but I think REW is enough for me... ?

My HTPC is in pieces at the moment but the latest version of REW has a signal generator and you can select the frequency.

http://www.hometheatershack.com/roomeq/

Scroll down to "carried over from REW 4"

I really like REW for the inexpensive solution,...but that XTZ sure looks like it is much easier to use and looks like a fine piece of kit,...for a price.

My HTPC is in pieces at the moment but the latest version of REW has a signal generator and you can select the frequency.

http://www.hometheatershack.com/roomeq/

Scroll down to "carried over from REW 4"

I really like REW for the inexpensive solution,...but that XTZ sure looks like it is much easier to use and looks like a fine piece of kit,...for a price.

Yes, XTZ looks good... the problem now is that I'm planning on buying Auddysey pro kit and I'm waiting for it to be available on my pre pro... Does it make sense in getting XTZ if I'm planning on getting Audyssey installer kit ?

That's a toughie! I would probably go with the Auddysey pro kit as it seems more geared toward the pro installer.

Compare the features, price and if it will work in your system.

So I just wanted to up date everyone that the sub was OK all along, I some how had it on my Sub 2 out, and when I some how reset my setting I must have dial in Sub 1, or thump did something to my AVR, I really don't know how it exactly happen, but of course it's my fault at the end of the day:o.

Glad all is well because no bass life is a sad life for sure..;)

Sorry about the mishap.


Djoel

I have 2X F113s & they are absolutely great. I'm posting here since many of use own or want to own JL audio Subs. I trying to get a feel of what others match to their JL audio Subs.

Now, that the bass is covered in my system I am looking for a speaker to match. I'm looking in the same performance class. i.e. Stereophile rates them Class A & Tone Audio gives them a top tone.

I've looked at B&W 800 series, Paradigm Signature, JBL 6300 studio monitors, PMC Loudspeakers, ATC Loudspeakers, Blue Sky Studio Monitors, Genelec Studio Monitors, Magnepan, Definitive Technology.

I do like floor standing speakers, because of the integrated stand. But I don't feel I require the bass, since the JL F113 pair really pressurizes my room. (heck! My whole down stairs!) Still Floor standers can exceed my budget.

I do like Monitors/Passive Bookshelf because I can stand/wall mount plus I can get a great value because I am not paying for the full floor standing loudspeaker. Plus the wife says it's easy to clean around stand mounted speakers. I don't like how some stand mounted speakers look on their stand- so I am looking for attractive stand mounted speakers, in addition to good sounding.

essential constraints $5500/pr or less. Additionally, any suggested matching amp, if needed.

Thanks for the help.
Bill

I have 2X F113s & they are absolutely great. I'm posting here since many of use own or want to own JL audio Subs. I trying to get a feel of what others match to their JL audio Subs.

Now, that the bass is covered in my system I am looking for a speaker to match. I'm looking in the same performance class. i.e. Stereophile rates them Class A & Tone Audio gives them a top tone.

I've looked at B&W 800 series, Paradigm Signature, JBL 6300 studio monitors, PMC Loudspeakers, ATC Loudspeakers, Blue Sky Studio Monitors, Genelec Studio Monitors, Magnepan, Definitive Technology.

I do like floor standing speakers, because of the integrated stand. But I don't feel I require the bass, since the JL F113 pair really pressurizes my room. (heck! My whole down stairs!) Still Floor standers can exceed my budget.

I do like Monitors/Passive Bookshelf because I can stand/wall mount plus I can get a great value because I am not paying for the full floor standing loudspeaker. Plus the wife says it's easy to clean around stand mounted speakers. I don't like how some stand mounted speakers look on their stand- so I am looking for attractive stand mounted speakers, in addition to good sounding.

essential constraints $5500/pr or less. Additionally, any suggested matching amp, if needed.

Thanks for the help.
Bill

I use JTR speakers with my dual F113s and it is awesome. Crossover is high, but the subs can handle it. They're not the best looking speakers, but I'd put them up against about any other passive speaker for performance.

I use JTR speakers with my dual F113s and it is awesome. Crossover is high, but the subs can handle it. They're not the best looking speakers, but I'd put them up against about any other passive speaker for performance.

I second the JTR recommendation. The Triple 8's and 12's with their standard finish are nothing special to look at, but their performance is as good or better than any speaker you can get from $10,000 down. Extremely high performance to cost ratio! Plus you can always get them in one of JTR's custom finishes (at an added cost) to really make their appearance improve.

I would also recommend Monitor Audio and Energy.

Glad all is well because no bass life is a sad life for sure..;)




So true.

I have 2X F113s & they are absolutely great.

I use JTR speakers with my dual F113s and it is awesome.

I had been looking into an upgrade (-itis?) from my SVS PB13-Ultra and had been considering dual f113s. My only reservation, having never physically heard them, was plumbing the depths of some of the demo material I audition with.

So yes, rumbling around down there at 15Hz and below is some nice, room-shaking feel. Am I crazy to even be worried about missing out on that by moving to such a setup?

I had been looking into an upgrade (-itis?) from my SVS PB13-Ultra and had been considering dual f113s. My only reservation, having never physically heard them, was plumbing the depths of some of the demo material I audition with.

So yes, rumbling around down there at 15Hz and below is some nice, room-shaking feel. Am I crazy to even be worried about missing out on that by moving to such a setup?

I haven't measured in room response, but I can assure you when I play the pod scene from War of the Worlds my room (2000 cubic feet) is coming apart at the seams....

I had been looking into an upgrade (-itis?) from my SVS PB13-Ultra and had been considering dual f113s. My only reservation, having never physically heard them, was plumbing the depths of some of the demo material I audition with.

So yes, rumbling around down there at 15Hz and below is some nice, room-shaking feel. Am I crazy to even be worried about missing out on that by moving to such a setup?

I guess the question boils down to why you want to upgrade? Have you thought about getting a second SVS PB-13 Ultra?

From a sheer SPL standpoint, it would be a lateral move. The JL F113 and SVS PB13-Ultra have similar output above 25Hz and the SVS PB-13 Ultra will have more output below 25Hz. The only issue is size as the SVS PB-13 Ultra is a mammoth compared with the JL F113 and IMHO, the JL Audio F113 definitely has a higher WAF.

I guess the question boils down to why you want to upgrade? Have you thought about getting a second SVS PB-13 Ultra?

From a sheer SPL standpoint, it would be a lateral move. The JL F113 and SVS PB13-Ultra have similar output above 25Hz and the SVS PB-13 Ultra will have more output below 25Hz. The only issue is size as the SVS PB-13 Ultra is a mammoth compared with the JL F113 and IMHO, the JL Audio F113 definitely has a higher WAF.

I agree with everything he said, although the JL has better than you'd expect output below 25 hz given its physical size. Personally, I needed the small form factor so I went with JL. If size wasn't an object I would have went with a Submersive or maybe a JTR Captivator.

I agree with everything he said, although the JL has better than you'd expect output below 25 hz given its physical size. Personally, I needed the small form factor so I went with JL. If size wasn't an object I would have went with a Submersive or maybe a JTR Captivator.

No doubt... The Fathom F113's output is excellent by any standards. However, when when you you take into account its small size, the output is truly a feat of engineering.

I guess the question boils down to why you want to upgrade?

The only issue is size as the SVS PB-13 Ultra is a mammoth compared with the JL F113 and IMHO, the JL Audio F113 definitely has a higher WAF.

Bingo.

No doubt... The Fathom F113's output is excellent by any standards. However, when when you you take into account its small size, the output is truly a feat of engineering.

This is why I purchased JL Audio over anything else. The only other reason is that they are a stable company & can provide service & repairs for their products.

Velodyne & REL are the only other companies I would consider, but they cost more.

Or the new Velodyne DD + series, they go down lower than the JLs and have integrated parametric eq. But I do love the JLs too.

Looking for a new JL F112. Can someone please PM me with what I should expect to be able to achieve in discounts from MSRP from an authorized local dealer?

I bet Floppy's inbox is full!

It depends.

- Will you require your dealer to set up and calibrate?
- Is this a single item purchase or part of a complete system?
- Would you consider a demo unit if your dealer had one available?
- Is warranty important? Remember there is no warranty if not purchased from a dealer.
- Payin CASH :D

Looking for a new JL F112. Can someone please PM me with what I should expect to be able to achieve in discounts from MSRP from an authorized local dealer?

Did you end up finding one FloppySet?

Warranty is important, so an authorized dealer is a must. I haven't had any responses yet, but my local dealer doesn't want to budge much on price. It will be interesting, but I need the smaller footprint of the JL, and combined with its power output and frequency response, it seems to be hard to beat at that size.

S

Anyone here running two F113's? I have 1 right now in the right front corner and was thinking of adding another in the left front. I am just looking for anyone who has a pair and what they think of them. One is sufficient for my 17' x 21' x 10' room, but I am looking for more as always. I'm debating between adding a second or getting a G213 where my F113 resides. The rest of my 7.1 system consists of a Pioneer SC-37, Def Tech Mythos Tens for my mains & Klipsch Reference series side & rear surrounds. I had Jeff Meier of Accucal calibrate my sound system & ISF calibrate my Pioneer PRO-141FD.

Anyone here running two F113's? I have 1 right now in the right front corner and was thinking of adding another in the left front. I am just looking for anyone who has a pair and what they think of them. One is sufficient for my 17' x 21' x 10' room, but I am looking for more as always. I'm debating between adding a second or getting a G213 where my F113 resides. The rest of my 7.1 system consists of a Pioneer SC-37, Def Tech Mythos Tens for my mains & Klipsch Reference series side & rear surrounds. I had Jeff Meier of Accucal calibrate my sound system & ISF calibrate my Pioneer PRO-141FD.

That's funny. I had Jeff Meier calibrate my system this morning, and I have 2 F113s. They're awesome.

That's funny. I had Jeff Meier calibrate my system this morning, and I have 2 F113s. They're awesome.

He is a cool and smart guy, it was a pleasure to meet him. Are you happy with how he set up your system? Where are your subs placed and how big is your room? Funny thing is right after I made this post my wife came out to the garage and said we should get another sub, but after I get my boobs done again!

Listening to Beastie Boys Brass Monkey right now RIP MCA!

He is a cool and smart guy, it was a pleasure to meet him. Are you happy with how he set up your system? Where are your subs placed and how big is your room? Funny thing is right after I made this post my wife came out to the garage and said we should get another sub, but after I get my boobs done again!

Yeah, he did a good job on my system. I'll get to play more tonight, but the short demo I got was really good. My subs are up front between my L/R's and the center channel.

By using two separate subwoofers, you can attain better bass response around the room. You can find a bunch of great discussions about multiple subwoofers and setup in this link, and also in other discussions at this site:

http://www.whatsbestforum.com/forumdisplay.php?173-Subwoofers

I hope this helps. I run two F113s, and it's very good indeed.

Lee

Funny thing is right after I made this post my wife came out to the garage and said we should get another sub, but after I get my boobs done again!

Tough decision!!! Woofers or Hooters!! :confused:

Adding a second F113 will give you more satisfaction than adding the larger sub. Two will smooth out your bass response in the room. I have two F113's and my room is 21x15x8 I love the bass I now have in my dedicated and treated room.

Anyone here running two F113's? I have 1 right now in the right front corner and was thinking of adding another in the left front. I am just looking for anyone who has a pair and what they think of them. One is sufficient for my 17' x 21' x 10' room, but I am looking for more as always. I'm debating between adding a second or getting a G213 where my F113 resides. The rest of my 7.1 system consists of a Pioneer SC-37, Def Tech Mythos Tens for my mains & Klipsch Reference series side & rear surrounds. I had Jeff Meier of Accucal calibrate my sound system & ISF calibrate my Pioneer PRO-141FD.

Another vote for duals. The bass is much more consistent across the listening positions, The second F113 also eliminated the sensation of pressure on the side the first sub sat - while the audio wasn't localizable, the pressure generated by the sub was subtle but noticeable.

Two f113's here, quite pleased... 26 x 18 x 9 room...might add a third...

Tough decision!!! Woofers or Hooters!! :confused:

Lol! This would be my second JL and her second pair of fake ones! Two kids affected the first pair. What ever makes her happy makes me happy.

Thanks to everyone for their input and recommendations. I will purchase a second F113 and hopefully that will satisfy our need for bass.

BTW, has anyone seem the You Tube video of the guy with two G213's playing Tool Sober? I envy that guy, I could only image what that has to sound like.

Four F112s and dialled in together works a treat.

Four F112s and dialled in together works a treat.

Wow! I F112s would definitely be a treat to say the least! How hard was it to set them up up? Did you run them as a master and 3 slaves? How big is your listening room?

Wow! I F112s would definitely be a treat to say the least! How hard was it to set them up up? Did you run them as a master and 3 slaves? How big is your listening room?

They all run independently because with the Denon AvpA1HD you can assign all the unused channels to subwoofer 1. I had a HAA calibrator help me dial them in using RTA equipment.

The room is 4x5m

Four F112s and dialled in together works a treat.

The Franin has one of the premiere HTs. I keep asking him to adopt me. I'm fairly housebroken and don't take up much space.

The Franin has one of the premiere HTs. I keep asking him to adopt me. I'm fairly housebroken and don't take up much space.

I see that, I wish I had his budget. I'd kill to have that gear or just be his friend and come hang out at his house.

Jano18,

First off, the Fathoms are great subs. Mr "Woofers or Hooters" above had dual Fathoms and moved on to something a bit more to his liking. I had quad Fathoms and moved on as well. There are better performing products out there but there are also compromises in fit and finish and more importantly, form factor that make the Fathoms still viable for many.

Dual F113's is very nice and as long as you stay within their performance limitations, they sound as good or better than any sub I have heard.

RMK is right on all accounts. A few reasons why I got F113s and still have them:

1) size and performance considering size
2) auto on/off (seems a lot of the big daddy subs don't have this)
3) controls to tweak are on the front
4). AMERICAN made!

If you have a room in say less than 2500 cubic feet I cant imagine wanting more than the Fathoms put out.

Would like to solicit opinions. Currently running 2 x F112. Two options:
1.)add 2 F113's, and move the F112's to the rear/sides of my home theater.

2.)sell my two F112's, and buy 2 F212's (and place them where the F112's are currently).

What do you all think? Also, is there Amy truth to rumors that the Fathom line is going to be refreshed soon (possibly 2013).

Thanks.

Would like to solicit opinions. Currently running 2 x F112. Two options:

1.)add 2 F113's, and move the F112's to the rear/sides of my home theater.


Doing the 4 subs helped acheive the result we required throughout the room.

Would like to solicit opinions. Currently running 2 x F112. Two options:
1.)add 2 F113's, and move the F112's to the rear/sides of my home theater.

2.)sell my two F112's, and buy 2 F212's (and place them where the F112's are currently).

What do you all think? Also, is there Amy truth to rumors that the Fathom line is going to be refreshed soon (possibly 2013).

Thanks.

I went from dual F113's to dual F212's and couldn't be happier.

Would like to solicit opinions. Currently running 2 x F112. Two options:
1.)add 2 F113's, and move the F112's to the rear/sides of my home theater.

2.)sell my two F112's, and buy 2 F212's (and place them where the F112's are currently).

What do you all think? Also, is there Amy truth to rumors that the Fathom line is going to be refreshed soon (possibly 2013).

Thanks.

I say a combination of the two options.

I would keep the F112's, because you'll take a loss if you sell those, and get one F212 now and if you feel down the road you need more, get a second F212.

Looking for a new JL F112. Can someone please PM me with what I should expect to be able to achieve in discounts from MSRP from an authorized local dealer?

I thought I'd jump in and follow up on this request, too. I'm finally ready to pull the trigger on an F113. I'm ok with buying demo or used and don't much care whether it's satin or piano black. There's not much action these days on audiogon, so I too am wondering what kind of deals people were able to get buying from a dealer. Please pm with any input you may be able to provide.

If it matters, I'm in the DC area and know of at least two local dealers, though my initial experiences lead me to believe that they don't discount. This would be a stand-alone purchase (though I have bought speakers from one of the dealers a few years back).

I thought I'd jump in and follow up on this request, too. I'm finally ready to pull the trigger on an F113. I'm ok with buying demo or used and don't much care whether it's satin or piano black. There's not much action these days on audiogon, so I too am wondering what kind of deals people were able to get buying from a dealer. Please pm with any input you may be able to provide.

If it matters, I'm in the DC area and know of at least two local dealers, though my initial experiences lead me to believe that they don't discount. This would be a stand-alone purchase (though I have bought speakers from one of the dealers a few years back).

PM sent

I just got a couple of F112's. After almost pulling the trigger on either a Rythmik sealed or SVS sealed, I decided on the F112's. Mark at Dwell Designs in SF was extremely helpful and ensured a smooth transaction in addition to quite a bit of technical advice.

Fathom: what a freaking cool name!!

Put them on furniture movers/sliders and pushed them all around the room until I got a nice flat response from 23 Hz to about 65 Hz. The peaks following that were taken care of with Electri-Q, a parametric EQ. That removed the boomy sound associated with the pesky peaks and now the bass is nice and tight. REW was instrumental in solving this problem.