Hey guys, lookin to join your ranks! I'm thinking of upgrading from my BIC Acoustech h-100 sub which I really like and am wondering if I get a svs pc12-nsd or pb12-nsd how much of an upgrade that would be for me. I'm expecting it to be alot. The h-100 is rated to go down to 24hz and the pb or pc-12 I think it rated at 17hz. Also, can't decide if cylinder or regular box type be best. Thanks. Also, how much does it matter that my h-100 has a 500 watt amp and the pb12-nsd only has a 325 watt amp?Having just replaced my h100 with a pc12-nsd, I can honestly say the difference it has made is HUGE! For my HT room (18x17x9), the H100 really failed to deliver the clean, low bass experience I was hunting for. I moved it (the h100) to several locations around the room, but it never met my expectations as to how much lower end 'oomph' I was looking for. The SVS really delivered the impactful bass I wanted— in both movies and music. Absolutely no regrets in the upgrade. It is awesome.
Per the difference between the PB & PC, according to SVS, there isnt any—other than the smaller footprint of the cylinder. I could've gone either way, but decided upon the PC12 as it tucked away discretely in the room corner behind the sofa.

Thanks for the reply guys! Kevin, that is the exact same situation I'm coming from and would be replacing the exact same sub with the same sub you just got as well! Sounds like It would be a huge upgrade, especially considering my room is only 14x12. I would probably finally get alot more of the lower hz bass from phantom menace, transformers, etc!

I would also like to know exactly what are the pros and cons of the box sub vs the cylindrical sub? Thanks.

Take a look at the PB-Plus I just got a couple weeks back. http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1131615 I know people like the cylinders b/c they take up less space, but this thing looks stunning. I dont think I would like a tall cylinder with carpet wrapped around it. Just a matter of choice IMO. This sub looks great and the sound is unbelievable.

One thing I do know. If I had someone living under me, much less near me, I would have to send this thing back. It rattles windows, foundations and the dog.:)

Take a look at the PB-Plus I just got a couple weeks back. http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1131615 I know people like the cylinders b/c they take up less space, but this thing looks stunning. I dont think I would like a tall cylinder with carpet wrapped around it. Just a matter of choice IMO. This sub looks great and the sound is unbelievable.

One thing I do know. If I had someone living under me, much less near me, I would have to send this thing back. It rattles windows, foundations and the dog.:)
Wow that really is a nice looking sub! I just think it might be overkill in my 10'x12'x8' room. I wish they made a 10" that looked just like that. I think I've made up my mind on the pb10. It should be more than enough sub for my room and I've heard nothing but good things about it, both musically and for H.T. use. Thanks for the link to your pics.

BWG707 -- Don't forget that any room openings to other rooms and/or hallways have to be included in your room volume (which has to be pressurized by the sub). You can never have "too much" sub -- larger subs just have to play at lower drive levels (= less distortion).

I would recommend the PB12-NSD as a much better choice for your 960+ cubic-foot room (from personal experience in "playing" with audio systems). Getting one that is really too small leaves you wishing for more after a couple of months of use. Remember that the smaller the sub, the harder you have to drive it to get good volume levels. Too small of a sub means that your distortion levels will be higher (not good). You could get the PB10-NSD, but I would recommend you call SVS first (and I think that's too small of a sub).

BWG707 -- Don't forget that any room openings to other rooms and/or hallways have to be included in your room volume (which has to be pressurized by the sub). You can never have "too much" sub -- larger subs just have to play at lower drive levels (= less distortion).

I would recommend the PB12-NSD as a much better choice for your 960+ cubic-foot room (from personal experience in "playing" with audio systems). Getting one that is really too small leaves you wishing for more after a couple of months of use. Remember that the smaller the sub, the harder you have to drive it to get good volume levels. Too small of a sub means that your distortion levels will be higher (not good). You could get the PB10-NSD, but I would recommend you call SVS first (and I think that's too small of a sub).

Thanks for the insight. One of the reasons that I did not think I needed the 12" sub is because the Velo VX-10 that I'm running right now has the gain set very, very low, using Audyssey 2EQ. The Velo sounds very good for both music and H.T. but I'm wanting more low end. I know that I'm missing out on a good amount of LFE. I seem to be getting good volume from the velo. By the way I'm also thinking about using both subs together, would there be many added benefits by doing this? I have heard that doubling up on subs mainly just gives an increase in volume. Like I said I'm looking for the lower LFE that I'm missing instead of the increase in volume. Again, thanks everybody for all the info I'm a beginner to the newer AV equipment and subwoofers are a completely new "animal" to me.

Thanks for the insight. One of the reasons that I did not think I needed the 12" sub is because the Velo VX-10 that I'm running right now has the gain set very, very low, using Audyssey 2EQ. The Velo sounds very good for both music and H.T. but I'm wanting more low end. I know that I'm missing out on a good amount of LFE. I seem to be getting good volume from the velo. By the way I'm also thinking about using both subs together, would there be many added benefits by doing this? I have heard that doubling up on subs mainly just gives an increase in volume. Like I said I'm looking for the lower LFE that I'm missing instead of the increase in volume. Again, thanks everybody for all the info I'm a beginner to the newer AV equipment and subwoofers are a completely new "animal" to me.

In the past I've used both a VX-10 and a PB10-NSD in my room of similar size (11'x10'x8') as yours. The PB10-NSD will certainly trump the Velodyne in output and extension, so if it's simply deeper bass you're looking for, it should be more than sufficient. That said, here's a warning: deep, accurate bass is addictive! It's very possible that once you have a capable sub you'll want to listen louder than you do now. This may or may not happen, but I'm just warning you that it happened to me. I had a VX-10, then moved to a 12" Infinity sub, then a PB10-NSD, then added a second PB10-NSD, and finally moved to an Epik Castle. "Upgraditis" can hit in a hurry, so if you think you're the type that might get seriously into subwoofers and bass, it might be a good move (and cheaper in the long run) to go with a little more subwoofer than you think you need. Keep us posted.

Thanks for the insight. One of the reasons that I did not think I needed the 12" sub is because the Velo VX-10 that I'm running right now has the gain set very, very low, using Audyssey 2EQ. The Velo sounds very good for both music and H.T. but I'm wanting more low end. I know that I'm missing out on a good amount of LFE. I seem to be getting good volume from the velo. By the way I'm also thinking about using both subs together, would there be many added benefits by doing this? I have heard that doubling up on subs mainly just gives an increase in volume. Like I said I'm looking for the lower LFE that I'm missing instead of the increase in volume. Again, thanks everybody for all the info I'm a beginner to the newer AV equipment and subwoofers are a completely new "animal" to me.
Humm,
if you have two sub and only one of them will go to the low end you are looking for, the volume at that frequency will be half compared to the volume you get were also the other sub is arriving. This will end up in a strange situation were the gain will never be correct.
IMHO
ciao
enzo

I have a general question. When did SVS start operating?

I have a general question. When did SVS start operating?

I think it was 98 or 99.

-Robb

Hello everyone,

This is my first post in the SVS forum, so I apologize in advance incase I ask something that's been answered many times.

Anyways, I have never owned an SVS before. I've had a klipsch KSW-12 and a Cambridge Soundworks Basscube 15, both of which were good subs considering price and what they were meant to do. But recently, I wanted to move up in level to a sub that plays louder and deeper, so obviously, SVS and HSU were two choices that I was considering.

Luckily, I came across someone who was selling a used PB2 plus for only $300!So, I jumped at the idea and sure enough I have it and it is indeed powerful.

That being said, it came with one port plug instead of two or three that it should have, but can't really complain at that price. Anyways, I don't really know alot about setting up the sub and I don't even have the instruction manual to figure out what to do...

What tuning should I set it at?
What cutoff should I set it to?
What phase setting do I keep it at (how does this affect how it works?)
How many ports should be plugged?

My room is approximately 4000 cubic feet, I have a denon 3808 and klipsch RF-3s for my fronts.

I know alot of the answers will depend on what I'm looking to achieve, etc. I'm not looking to put a hole in the wall with this sub, but I'd like to have nice deep bass for movies but also fast/tight bass for music that also hits deep. Right now, I feel as though there are certain places in the house where the bass is really hitting deep (like in the dining room across the house) and in certain parts of the room with some adjustments, but not really sure...

I was hoping to avoid getting something like the Behringer FBD since it's just one more thing to have in the room, so any advice you're able to provide would be great!

Thanks in advance!

Luckily, I came across someone who was selling a used PB2 plus for only $300!So, I jumped at the idea and sure enough I have it and it is indeed powerful.

That being said, it came with one port plug instead of two or three that it should have, but can't really complain at that price. Anyways, I don't really know alot about setting up the sub and I don't even have the instruction manual to figure out what to do...

What tuning should I set it at?
What cutoff should I set it to?
What phase setting do I keep it at (how does this affect how it works?)
How many ports should be plugged?

My room is approximately 4000 cubic feet, I have a denon 3808 and klipsch RF-3s for my fronts.

I know alot of the answers will depend on what I'm looking to achieve, etc. I'm not looking to put a hole in the wall with this sub, but I'd like to have nice deep bass for movies but also fast/tight bass for music that also hits deep. Right now, I feel as though there are certain places in the house where the bass is really hitting deep (like in the dining room across the house) and in certain parts of the room with some adjustments, but not really sure...



midfiman,

$300 is a great price for that sub!

It would have come with 2 port bungs, not 3 (the PB12-Plus/2 does not have a sealed mode). Either way, in your space, it doesn't matter. In 4,000 cubic feet I would not use any port bungs, and certainly mo more than one.

Match the tuning knob to whether or not you use a port bung. No bungs, 25 Hz, with the bung, 20 Hz.

I'm not sure what you mean by "cutoff", but if it's the crossover, you should disable it (your 3808 will handle that).

I would leave the phase at zero and also let your 3808 handle that.

Trying to get even bass is always tricky. First thing is location. If you can put the sub where you sit and crawl around the room, that often helps you find the best place to put the sub. The other thing you need to do is run the Audyssey setup that comes with your receiver.

Do you have a SPL meter?

Here's a couple of links you might like:

http://www.svsound.com/products-sub-box-plus2.cfm

http://www.svsound.com/manuals/pb2plus.pdf

Happy listening!

-Robb

Hi Robb,

Thanks for the quick reply. I currently have it in my upstairs room which is hooked up to my older Marantz SR5000. In this case, I don't think it has a cross over adjustment on the receiver, so I can just use that on the sub, correct? I'm assuming the klipsch will reach down to 80 or so with ease so maybe set it there?

Also, is the PB12-plus the same as the PB2 plus? This sub says PB2 Plus on the back, so wasn't sure if this is a different model...

Thanks again!

Hi Robb,

Thanks for the quick reply. I currently have it in my upstairs room which is hooked up to my older Marantz SR5000. In this case, I don't think it has a cross over adjustment on the receiver, so I can just use that on the sub, correct? I'm assuming the klipsch will reach down to 80 or so with ease so maybe set it there?

Also, is the PB12-plus the same as the PB2 plus? This sub says PB2 Plus on the back, so wasn't sure if this is a different model...

Thanks again!

That Marantz is a Dolby Digital model, so it will also handle the crossover for you. It may not be adjustable, but it's there, so you wouldn't want to have multiple crossovers at work. Be sure to set your speakers to small in the setup menu.

The PB2 Plus is the older name for what became called the PB12-Plus/2.

-Robb

Okay, I'll look it up in the manual of the receiver. I just figured if it's not adjustable it wouldn't do it. Will it take care of crossover automatically in stereo mode as well, or only when using DD/DTS?

I don't have a RS meter, but it looks like that's pretty essential.

Unfortunately, since this thing is the size of a shed, I don't have much flexibility in placement but i'm hoping buy a good sub like this, it will perform pretty well (thoughperhaps not optimal) in its current location.

The PB2 Plus is the older name for what became called the PB12-Plus/2.

-Robb

That makes SOOOO much more sense now!

Will it take care of crossover automatically in stereo mode as well, or only when using DD/DTS?

I don't have a RS meter, but it looks like that's pretty essential.



Yes and yes. :^)

-Robb

thanks!

Hi Robb,

Thanks for the quick reply. I currently have it in my upstairs room which is hooked up to my older Marantz SR5000. In this case, I don't think it has a cross over adjustment on the receiver, so I can just use that on the sub, correct? I'm assuming the klipsch will reach down to 80 or so with ease so maybe set it there?

Also, is the PB12-plus the same as the PB2 plus? This sub says PB2 Plus on the back, so wasn't sure if this is a different model...

Thanks again!The PB2+ will have dual drivers. If it is then use Robb's setup tips. If it's a single driver PB12+, then still you'll want to use native tune (20hz) and no plugs or a single plug and set it to 16hz(might be stretching it a bit in your room).

Thanks Ron, it' definately the dual driver setup (I could feel both of them pounding away when I put my hands underneath the slot opening bewteen the box and the footplate while playing some Flo Rider yesterday! :D

I'll try removing the plug (do I just literally pull it out? I don't see any mention of it in the link to the manual) and setting it to 20hz. It would be nice to get a BFD, but I don't think I want to spend the money right now to do so. Maybe sometime in the future.

BTW - The instructions on the SVS setup says to set the receiver to reference levels for the test tone setup. The Marantz is a little different in that the volume goes from 0 on up to 80 (or more). How would I know what reference level is? Is there a certain DB level I should consider reference (using my new RS DB meter!)?

Thanks!

Thanks Ron, it' definately the dual driver setup (I could feel both of them pounding away when I put my hands underneath the slot opening bewteen the box and the footplate while playing some Flo Rider yesterday! :D

I'll try removing the plug (do I just literally pull it out? I don't see any mention of it in the link to the manual) and setting it to 20hz. It would be nice to get a BFD, but I don't think I want to spend the money right now to do so. Maybe sometime in the future.

BTW - The instructions on the SVS setup says to set the receiver to reference levels for the test tone setup. The Marantz is a little different in that the volume goes from 0 on up to 80 (or more). How would I know what reference level is? Is there a certain DB level I should consider reference (using my new RS DB meter!)?

Thanks!

Don't do that! IIRC, the native tune of the PB2+ (no plugs) is 25hz, not 20hz. If you move the filter to 20hz with no port plugs, the sub's drivers can damage themselves with material below 25hz. If you're not using any plugs, you need to set the filter to 25hz With a single port plug, set the filter at 20hz.

I'm not 100% sure of the tuning frequencies of the PB2+. However, the rule is if you are using no port plugs, set the filter to the highest frequency. With one plug, put it down a notch - two plugs, put the filter down two notches. You don't want to damage your sub!

You're probably fine leaving the plug in and setting the tuning switch to 20hz with a PB2+. Try it both ways, unplugged at 25hz and plugged at 20hz and see which one lights your britches.

You're probably fine leaving the plug in and setting the tuning switch to 20hz with a PB2+. Try it both ways, unplugged at 25hz and plugged at 20hz and see which one lights your britches.

Good to know, thanks!

Hello guys I just joined the SVS Sound club with a purchase of a PB-10NSD. I know its late but I couldn't wait to say that. I previously had a Velp DPS-10,(which was stolen) can the PB-10 toss the velo around and eat it for lunch or will it be just a nice step up? Anyways thanks to this forum I feel like I have saved money and a temporary fix for upgrading by buying SVS.

Hey guys - my HT room is 30' long, 15' wide, 9' high. - the very front of the room, where the screen is and sub - opens up to an opening that leads to stairs heading upstairs to the main floor.


I am doing a 7.1 setup, with speakercraft inwalls and in ceiling.

I am looking for a solid sub. not sure what to spend for budget, but I thinking 1 good sub versus 2 smaller subs for output/deep/tight bass.
Originally I was looking at SB12plus (900CAD), which from what I have been reading should be enuff.

But; from reading too much:):);):)
I started to see the PB12-plus which is 1500 CAD, but that is very close to PB13 ultra at 2k CAD

Can someone provide me with a bit of direction. I am not a bass head, but could be. The question is what do I get for 900 CAD verus 1500 vs 2k??

Thanks
S

Hello guys I just joined the SVS Sound club with a purchase of a PB-10NSD. I know its late but I couldn't wait to say that. I previously had a Velp DPS-10,(which was stolen) can the PB-10 toss the velo around and eat it for lunch or will it be just a nice step up? Anyways thanks to this forum I feel like I have saved money and a temporary fix for upgrading by buying SVS.

"Toss it around and eat it for lunch" might be a bit of an exaggeration, but the PB10-NSD should offer a very noticeable increase in overall output, significantly deeper extension, and a LOT more output below 35hz. Let's just say I don't think you'll be wishing you had the DPS-10 back...

I have a question. I currently upgraded my PB12-NSD to a PC12-Plus, I notice that the impact and output that was there with the PB12-NSD is gone, I have it tuned to 20Hz have the gain at 11 o'clock and tried with new recal and the previous settings for my PB12, I've also tried different room placements and it seems to not help very much. The Dark Night would shake my house with the PB12-NSD and with the Plus it doesn't at all. Any help would be appreciated.

After much debate, I went with the SB12-Plus to pair with my Mirage OMD5's and Onkyo 605 AVR in a 5.1 setup. It has been a long, drawn out process selecting all the components for my living room HT. This is the last piece of the HT puzzle...can't wait to get it all set up!

Does the PB12-Plus beat out the cheaper PB10-NSD in all ways, or does the PB10-NSD have some advantages because it's bigger?

Does the PB12-Plus beat out the cheaper PB10-NSD in all ways, or does the PB10-NSD have some advantages because it's bigger?

Do you mean the PB12-Plus or the SB12-Plus? If you meant the PB12-Plus, it beats the PB10-NSD in every way imaginable (and it's bigger, not smaller). If you mean the SB12-Plus, the PB10-NSD will go lower for HT effects.

-Robb

I have a PC12-NSD on the way!:cool:
I'm coming from a HTIB sub to a BIC Acoustech h-100 sub to this SVS PC12-NSD. I fully expect to be blown away and hear bass I never even knew was on the audio track! I'm looking at you Star Wars Episode 1:Phantom Menace!:D

I have a PC12-NSD on the way!:cool:
I'm coming from a HTIB sub to a BIC Acoustech h-100 sub to this SVS PC12-NSD. I fully expect to be blown away and hear bass I never even knew was on the audio track! I'm looking at you Phantom Menace!:D Phantom Menace as in Star Wars? If so, yes, the pod race will be surely very fun with a subwoofer such as an SVS. :cool:

I have a PC12-NSD on the way!:cool:
I'm coming from a HTIB sub to a BIC Acoustech h-100 sub to this SVS PC12-NSD. I fully expect to be blown away and hear bass I never even knew was on the audio track! I'm looking at you Phantom Menace!:D

I just switched from an H-100 to the PC12-NSD not too long ago. You WILL be amazed! :)

Do you mean the PB12-Plus or the SB12-Plus? If you meant the PB12-Plus, it beats the PB10-NSD in every way imaginable (and it's bigger, not smaller). If you mean the SB12-Plus, the PB10-NSD will go lower for HT effects.

-Robb

Oops, I meant the SB12-Plus compared to the PB10-NSD.

So for HT use is it better to get the PB10-NSD unless you just don't have room for it? Or is it a choice between the lowest notes or better accuracy?

I just switched from an H-100 to the PC12-NSD not too long ago. You WILL be amazed! :)

SWEEEEEEET!! Exactly what I wanted to hear.:cool:

Take a look at the PB-Plus I just got a couple weeks back. http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1131615 I know people like the cylinders b/c they take up less space, but this thing looks stunning. I dont think I would like a tall cylinder with carpet wrapped around it. Just a matter of choice IMO. This sub looks great and the sound is unbelievable.

Congrats on the beautiful sub! (I like the piano finish). I'm glad it's rocking your house.

With respect, however, I think to describe the PC-12 Plus as a "cylinder with carpet wrapped around it" is not quite accurate.

Before I bought my subs, I was concerned about the appearance of the PC-12 Pluses since I had never seen them in person. The term "cloth" seemed cheap and flimsy. I needed have worried...

The inner structural cylinder appears surrounded by a 1/2 to 3/4 inch thick, dense, black solid layer. The surface of the subwoofers feels like a thick, indigo velour. The way the subs are constructed, it makes it appear that the velour acoustic cloth is fused to the underlying black structural material. The end result are solid black, thick walled units with a rich looking finish. They pretty much disappear during movies since they reflect no light.

Unforunately, because of this quality, the subs do not photograph well. However, in person, the whole package looks very professional and substantial--looks cool and modern IMHO--kind of like twin towers in my setup :).

In any event, it's as you said: horses for courses.

Oops, I meant the SB12-Plus compared to the PB10-NSD.

So for HT use is it better to get the PB10-NSD unless you just don't have room for it? Or is it a choice between the lowest notes or better accuracy?

All SVS subs are designed for accuracy -- it's not like the PB10-NSD will sound "muddy" or "boomy". I can say, for critical music listening, the SB12-Plus will have an advantage, assuming both are within their range of maximum output. The PB10-NSD will certainly go lower, which will be of use in HT applications.

Those are two subs that are difficult to compare, and are really meant for two different applications: music or space constricted vs. HT non-space constricted. We're talking two price classes, two different lines of drivers, two different driver sizes, and large/ported vs. small/sealed. At a minimum, you should be comparing the PB12-NSD to the SB12-Plus.

-Robb

I've noticed that a lot of people have mentioned that they are getting incredible performance from their subs (even the PB10) with the gain set around the 9:00 position. However, for me, I need to have the gain set to roughly the 1:00 position to even begin to feel the impact of the sub. Granted, I notice that it's present at a much lower gain level, but I don't truly "feel" it unless it's around the 1:00 position. I have the sub connected to a Yamaha 1800 receiver, all the speakers set to "small" and the crossover in the receiver set to "80". I used an SPL meter to calibrate my home theater but I even went so far as to increase the sub's db level in the receiver to "+3". Is it "normal" to have the subs gain set this high? Or is it just that the room size/configuration of my apartment is too large? I would say my open concept living room/dining room/kitchen are roughly 800 square feet combined. Don't get me wrong, I'm not complaining about the performance of the sub, I'm just wondering if there's something I have set wrong or something that I could check because I don't understand why I need to have the gain set at such a high level. I guess it's just more out of curiousity and wanting to get the "most" out of the sub. I apologize for such a long post and thank you for your feedback.

seaners,

Your sub's loudness is a combination of gain settings on the back of the sub and in your receiver. I'm usually at plus 3dbs myself.

...Don't get me wrong, I'm not complaining about the performance of the sub, I'm just wondering if there's something I have set wrong or something that I could check because I don't understand why I need to have the gain set at such a high level....

Seaners,

There are far too many variables to know if your gain level on the sub is accurate, including subjectivity. You say you need it that high to "feel" the sub, but depending on the source material, you may not be meant to feel it. I recently auditioned my dual Ultras (calibrated flat) for a guy who just didn't find them to be enough for music. In the end, he's looking at 20-25 dB hot for what he wants to hear. To each his own, but he's going to need a lot of sub.

If you want to double-check all of your settings, go through this list by Ed Mullen: http://www.robbroy.net/HT/SubwooferErrors.cfm.

-Robb

Hi All-

I posted this request in the Velodyne thread, but I wanted some thoughts from SVS users also as I've seen both Velodyne & SVS owners being extremely happy with their subwoofers.

I'm looking for a new subwoofer to replace my Linn SIZMIK 10.25 (500W/1000W/10"/Sealed) that's been in my pseudo-home theater room for the past 4 years. As much as I love the 10" sealed Linn, it's not giving me as much performance as I would like for movies in the environment that it is in. I've pushed it to the max where the fan inside of it is constantly on and it's popping constantly just ever so slightly above where I get those "goose-bump" effects from movies, so I've had to severely back-off on the LFE channel to make it behave.

I thought I would be close to 50/50 on "Movies" and critical "Music" listening (i.e. Jazz & Classical) in the pseudo-home theater room but now the system is virtually 95% "Movies" and 5% "Random Pop/R&B/Rap" background music so I'm planning to relocate my Linn SIZMIK 10.25 to my master bedroom system which currently has a very muddy Polk 8" subwoofer (Ported/50W) from a refurbished set of Polk RM6750's. I do almost 100% of my critical music listening in my bedroom. Since then, I've upgraded to Polk VM30's and moved my Denon AVR-3805 to my bedroom once the Onkyo TX-SR876 took over the home theater duties, but the RM6750's 8" subwoofer has remained as the .1 in the 2.1 setup and I'm sure getting rid of the Polk subwoofer and putting in the Linn instead will make a world of difference.

So in a nutshell, I need to find a subwoofer for my home theater room. To make things easier for recommendations, I've included a rudimentary drawing of the layout which explains how the room looks like but I will lay out the info here:

Pseudo Home theater room is the "Family Room" and is approximately 12.5' x 15.5' x 7.75' (About 1500 cu. ft.). The "Family Room" opens into the "Kitchen" which is about 1200 cu. ft. There is an adjoining "Flex Room" to the "Family Room" which opened by a 4' x 7.75' opening/walkway. The "Flex Room" is approximately 1300 cu. ft. The current subwoofer location is shown in the picture which would be the upper left-hand corner of the room (to the right of the FR speaker). Triad InCeiling Gold/6 Omni's are the LCR's. Polk TC610i are the surrounds and rears. Receiver is an Onkyo TX-SR876. All of the flooring (1st floor) in all the rooms are wooden. No carpeting at all.

So which SVS subwoofer should I be looking at primarily for movies and "adequate" music performance for that heart-thumping LFE effects that I've been missing in the past?

Thanks in advance for any help!

Cheers,
Kermee

...So which SVS subwoofer should I be looking at primarily for movies and "adequate" music performance for that heart-thumping LFE effects that I've been missing in the past?...

Cheers,
Kermee

Kermee,

That question really leaves a broad range of subwoofers. Do you have a budget in mind? Space limitations? If not, I suggest 2 PB13-Ultras. :^) Just kidding (sort of -- that's what I have and couldn't imagine living with less, but I like my headroom).

Unless you "push it to 11" I'm guessing you'll be happy with even the PB12-NSD. If you like your movies quite loud, or plan to have it particularly "hot" for movies, I would suggest the PB12-Plus or even the PB13-Ultra. Fair warning: you'll probably want to do more critical listening in your theater if you go with one of the latter two.

-Robb

robbroy,

Kermee,

That question really leaves a broad range of subwoofers. Do you have a budget in mind? Space limitations? If not, I suggest 2 PB13-Ultras. :^) Just kidding (sort of -- that's what I have and couldn't imagine living with less, but I like my headroom).

Aye! I realize it does leave a broad range of subwoofers. I did read over a lot of threads/posts about about PB13-Ultras. Holy smokes! The PB13-Ultra in Rosenut definitely oozes sexiness! Alas, even with the free shipping, it is out of my budget range currently.


Unless you "push it to 11" I'm guessing you'll be happy with even the PB12-NSD. If you like your movies quite loud, or plan to have it particularly "hot" for movies, I would suggest the PB12-Plus or even the PB13-Ultra. Fair warning: you'll probably want to do more critical listening in your theater if you go with one of the latter two.

-Robb

I've been taking a very long and hard look at the PB12-NSD and the PB12-Plus to a lesser extent due to the relative difference in price but I'm definitely a believer in "you get what you pay for", of course. My budget is variable but the PB13-Ultra is definitely out of range. I think I will rarely push it to "11", but as I'm finding out what's been repeated many times in other threads I've noticed while researching, it's that "you need to buy more subwoofer than you *think* you need".

Even if I went with just the PB12-NSD, I'm hoping that it'll put out a lot more "oompf" than the Linn SIZMIK 10.25 does for movies and I'm starting to think, hopefully correctly, that the Linn wasn't even really designed for "Movies" in a home-theater. Either that or it wasn't quite what I expected for the environment it's in.

Like I said, the Linn comes *really* close to the point of where I get nice, tight, boomy, bass and LFE affects for movies at an SPL I'd like to enjoy (some shaking of the entire room/1st floor). ... But I'm guessing when I use the term "close", "close" is relative. After tweaking the internal high-pass filter (16 Hz) on the Linn and running Audyssey MultEQ on the Onkyo, I have to back off about -11.0dB on the Linn in order not to have the sub "popping" on some LFE heavy tracks (Onkyo is running between -6 to -9dB on the master volume). I just hope I don't lose too much precision I've enjoyed from the Linn in whichever subwoofer I decide to end up getting, but I do realize there will be some compromise and I'm definitely willing to trade-off since the HT is primarily used for "Movies" now.

Thanks for the input!

Cheers,
Kermee

Kermee,

I'm not trying to persuade you to buy something other than SVS, as I have used their products in the past and have found them to be of exceptional quality. I also have the utmost respect for the company as a whole - they're straight shooters and their customer service is top notch. There's a good chance the PB12 Plus might be exactly what you're looking for. It looks beautiful and most reports claim that it sounds a lot like the Ultra but with a few dB less output. I'm sure it's a fine choice.

It sounds as though you listen pretty loud and you want the headroom of the PB13 but the price is a bit prohibitive. You might want to consider the Epik Phoenix.

http://epiksubwoofers.com/portedphoenix.html

At $1099 plus shipping it will cost about the same (maybe a bit less) than the PB12 Plus but is said to nearly match the Ultra in output. It isn't as good looking as the PB12 Plus but I think it will probably outperform it. I only mention the Phoenix because you seem to really want Ultra performance at a lower-than-Ultra price. I can't say if it will measure up, but Chad (the owner of Epik) seems to think it will come close.

Just wanted to give you another option. I think you'd probably be happy with the PB12 Plus, PB13 Ultra, or the Phoenix in terms of sonic capabilities - just with your budget the Phoenix might be a good fit. No matter which sub you choose, I think you'll be treated to some serious HT bass :D. Best of luck, and keep us posted.

...Even if I went with just the PB12-NSD, I'm hoping that it'll put out a lot more "oompf" than the Linn SIZMIK 10.25 does for movies and I'm starting to think, hopefully correctly, that the Linn wasn't even really designed for "Movies" in a home-theater. Either that or it wasn't quite what I expected for the environment it's in....

Kermee

A 10" sealed vs. a ported 12" in a large enclosure is not really a fair fight for HT.

-Robb

A 10" sealed vs. a ported 12" in a large enclosure is not really a fair fight for HT.

-Robb

Agreed. SVS's ported 12" subs are great performers and I think they'll provide a more intense HT experience than Kermee's current 10" sealed sub.

Kermee,

I'm not trying to persuade you to buy something other than SVS, as I have used their products in the past and have found them to be of exceptional quality. I also have the utmost respect for the company as a whole - they're straight shooters and their customer service is top notch. There's a good chance the PB12 Plus might be exactly what you're looking for. It looks beautiful and most reports claim that it sounds a lot like the Ultra but with a few dB less output. I'm sure it's a fine choice.

It sounds as though you listen pretty loud and you want the headroom of the PB13 but the price is a bit prohibitive. You might want to consider the Epik Phoenix.

http://epiksubwoofers.com/portedphoenix.html

At $1099 plus shipping it will cost about the same (maybe a bit less) than the PB12 Plus but is said to nearly match the Ultra in output. It isn't as good looking as the PB12 Plus but I think it will probably outperform it. I only mention the Phoenix because you seem to really want Ultra performance at a lower-than-Ultra price. I can't say if it will measure up, but Chad (the owner of Epik) seems to think it will come close.

Just wanted to give you another option. I think you'd probably be happy with the PB12 Plus, PB13 Ultra, or the Phoenix in terms of sonic capabilities - just with your budget the Phoenix might be a good fit. No matter which sub you choose, I think you'll be treated to some serious HT bass :D. Best of luck, and keep us posted.

Hi lalakersfan34,

Thanks for the advice! I was actually looking at the Epik's also. Actually, the one you mentioned, the Phoenix, and the Dragon, which is sealed. I was going to head over to the Epik thread and re-read all the posts to get a feeling for the differences between the two. I guess I'm one of those folks who are in the "want the tightness of a sealed sub, expecting the thump of a ported sub without paying for the price" Club! :/ That being said, I think you're right on the money and if I went with Epik, the Phoenix would definitely fit the bill.

A 10" sealed vs. a ported 12" in a large enclosure is not really a fair fight for HT.

-Robb

Robb,

Aye! And I realize that. I know with fair certainty that I will end up with a ported subwoofer in order to meet my HT-experience expectation within a budget I feel comfortable with *BUT* I'm definitely not going to hold anything against it. It's unfair for sure and my expectations are set as such also. I realize I will compromise; but to say it's a "compromise" is actually unfair also in a sense that I'm demanding more of an HT-experience than musical, so maybe it's not a compromise at all.

One thing is for sure is once the Linn gets moved into my master bedroom (12' x 14' x 7.75') along with the Polk VM30's powered by my aging, yet faithful, Denon AVR-3805... I'm probably going to have early-age onset of permanent hearing loss ;)

Thanks again!

Cheers,
Kermee

After bugging my wife all day, my SB12-Plus finally arrived via UPS. My speaker mounts should be here tomorrow and I hope to be in HT heaven this weekend!!!

After bugging my wife all day, my SB12-Plus finally arrived via UPS. My speaker mounts should be here tomorrow and I hope to be in HT heaven this weekend!!!

Post your impressions please when you get it all setup. I may be purchasing one in a few weeks.

SVS'ers.. I would like to find a new home for my Rosewood PB12+/2, purchased in Jan 2006. It's in excellent condition.. Lot's of output.. Any advice as to where to post this.. I'm in Las Vegas.

Thank you!!

fab5valentine

I'm in the process of putting together my first home theater set up. They're both on order but I haven't received my Yamaha receiver or SB12-Plus yet. I'll be ordering speaker wire and sub cable from Monoprice or Bluejeans and I'd like to have the cables ready to go when the receiver and sub arrive but I'm not sure what I really need for the sub.
There are both high level and low level ins and outs on the SB12-Plus. Which should I use? I assume I need two cables?

I'm in the process of putting together my first home theater set up. They're both on order but I haven't received my Yamaha receiver or SB12-Plus yet. I'll be ordering speaker wire and sub cable from Monoprice or Bluejeans and I'd like to have the cables ready to go when the receiver and sub arrive but I'm not sure what I really need for the sub.
There are both high level and low level ins and outs on the SB12-Plus. Which should I use? I assume I need two cables?

A single RCA cable is all you will need.


-Robb

SVS'ers.. I would like to find a new home for my Rosewood PB12+/2, purchased in Jan 2006. It's in excellent condition.. Lot's of output.. Any advice as to where to post this.. I'm in Las Vegas.

Thank you!!

fab5valentineDarrin, you can put it up here, on CP, audiogon, ebay or probably get a local sale through Craigslist (my recomendation). Shipping one of those guys is a PITA as you've probably figured.

I'm pretty close to selecting a subwoofer, today.

It's between the SVS PB12-NSD and the Velodyne DEQ-15R. Anyone have any thoughts?

Cheers,
Kermee

Okay.. Rosewood SVS PB12-Plus/2 is posted here at AVS.. CRAZY Price!!! **Hurry** Ha!!! But it really is...

Does anyone have a AS-EQ1?? I was currious if you're happy with it or is everyone primarily using their AVR to EQ.. -Thank! :-)

Okay.. Rosewood SVS PB12-Plus/2 is posted here at AVS.. CRAZY Price!!! **Hurry** Ha!!! But it really is...

Does anyone have a AS-EQ1?? I was currious if you're happy with it or is everyone primarily using their AVR to EQ.. -Thank! :-)
You're giving it away? You have trouble finding a neighbor to take it?

I used REW to get my PB12-+/2 dialed in.

Okay.. Rosewood SVS PB12-Plus/2 is posted here at AVS.. CRAZY Price!!! **Hurry** Ha!!! But it really is...

Does anyone have a AS-EQ1?? I was currious if you're happy with it or is everyone primarily using their AVR to EQ.. -Thank! :-)

Yes, because all who have seen my SVS have purchased their own SVS already, or their wives have said NO "you're no wreckn' my house".. :-(

Post your impressions please when you get it all setup. I may be purchasing one in a few weeks.

Absolutely!

I'm in the process of putting together my first home theater set up. They're both on order but I haven't received my Yamaha receiver or SB12-Plus yet. I'll be ordering speaker wire and sub cable from Monoprice or Bluejeans and I'd like to have the cables ready to go when the receiver and sub arrive but I'm not sure what I really need for the sub.
There are both high level and low level ins and outs on the SB12-Plus. Which should I use? I assume I need two cables?

I just ordered and received this one...

http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=102&cp_id=10236&cs_id=1023603&p_id=2680&seq=1&format=1#largeimage

Absolutely!



I just ordered and received this one...

http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=102&cp_id=10236&cs_id=1023603&p_id=2680&seq=1&format=1#largeimage
Thanks

Okay.. Rosewood SVS PB12-Plus/2 is posted here at AVS.. CRAZY Price!!! **Hurry** Ha!!! But it really is...

I saw your classified ad. Why are you selling it?

Nevermind.

I saw your classified ad. Why are you selling it?

First.. I want to upgrade my HT.

Next.. It is a big sub as I have a big room, but even though the Rosewood is pretty -it still doesn't have a high WAF, you know... At least at my place..

It's in really nice shape and I'm surprised I haven't blown out the windows on "Darla":eek:, at least now we all know why the blow fish blows up, huh? :p

I just placed my order for a pb12-nsd. It was a real toss up between it and the HSU VTF3 MK3. I'm sure I would have been perfectly happy with either one, so I opted for the slightly cheaper choice.

After bugging my wife all day, my SB12-Plus finally arrived via UPS. My speaker mounts should be here tomorrow and I hope to be in HT heaven this weekend!!!

Congrats on the new sub! :D

I got my PC12-NSD the other day and I'm a really hard time getting it to play deep for some reason.:confused: My previous sub was a BIC H-100 and I loved it but wanted something that could go deeper. Thing is right now the H-100 sounded better to me and I don't know why. For example, in Transformers there were many scenes where the H-100 was rumbling and alot of the bass I could feel. With the PC12-NSD I turned the gain even higher up and still don't get the deep rumble or the feeled bass. I have the PC12-NSD in the exact same spot I had the H-100. I reran my Pioneer MCACC calibration, turned the gain on the PC12-NSD up to half way point, and turned the DB on reciever bass from +0.5 to +1.5. I'm still not getting the kinda bass I'm expecting from this. Any suggestions? Hopefully the amp in the sub isn't bad or something.

I got my PC12-NSD the other day and I'm a really hard time getting it to play deep for some reason.:confused: My previous sub was a BIC H-100 and I loved it but wanted something that could go deeper. Thing is right now the H-100 sounded better to me and I don't know why. For example, in Transformers there were many scenes where the H-100 was rumbling and alot of the bass I could feel. With the PC12-NSD I turned the gain even higher up and still don't get the deep rumble or the feeled bass. I have the PC12-NSD in the exact same spot I had the H-100. I reran my Pioneer MCACC calibration, turned the gain on the PC12-NSD up to half way point, and turned the DB on reciever bass from +0.5 to +1.5. I'm still not getting the kinda bass I'm expecting from this. Any suggestions? Hopefully the amp in the sub isn't bad or something.

You don't mention your Pioneer model number, but here is a couple of things to try:

Check to make sure that your crossovers are set correctly. If you L/R speakers are set to "Large", set them to "Small" and adjust your crossover on your receiver to 80hz. Also, make sure your crossover on your SVS is set to the max setting. This will let the receiver do the crossover.
Make sure you level match the sub to the main speakers BEFORE you run your MCACC. This will give you a good start for the auto calibration by making sure the receiver doesn't crank the LFE/SUB gain down too much. Use the internal test tones from your receiver for your SUB.



Hope this helps!
-Alex-

You don't mention your Pioneer model number, but here is a couple of things to try:

Check to make sure that your crossovers are set correctly. If you L/R speakers are set to "Large", set them to "Small" and adjust your crossover on your receiver to 80hz. Also, make sure your crossover on your SVS is set to the max setting. This will let the receiver do the crossover.
Make sure you level match the sub to the main speakers BEFORE you run your MCACC. This will give you a good start for the auto calibration by making sure the receiver doesn't crank the LFE/SUB gain down too much. Use the internal test tones from your receiver for your SUB.



Hope this helps!
-Alex-

I have the Pioneer Elite VSX-01TXH receiver. Yes, I went in and changed all my speakers to small and set the crossover to 80hz. I did not however turn the subs crossover to max. I turned it to 0 and the switch is set to disabled. So this shouldn't matter then should it since it's disabled anyway or should I set the dial to max anyways? Thanks!

I have the Pioneer Elite VSX-01TXH receiver. Yes, I went in and changed all my speakers to small and set the crossover to 80hz. I did not however turn the subs crossover to max. I turned it to 0 and the switch is set to disabled. So this shouldn't matter then should it since it's disabled anyway or should I set the dial to max anyways? Thanks!

If it is disabled, then it should not matter.

Hmm...not sure what is up. The SVS should sound great. Did you turn off double bass/LFE + Mains? This may happen automatically when you set the mains to small.

Thanks,
-Alex-

I got my PC12-NSD the other day and I'm a really hard time getting it to play deep for some reason.:confused: My previous sub was a BIC H-100 and I loved it but wanted something that could go deeper. Thing is right now the H-100 sounded better to me and I don't know why. For example, in Transformers there were many scenes where the H-100 was rumbling and alot of the bass I could feel. With the PC12-NSD I turned the gain even higher up and still don't get the deep rumble or the feeled bass. I have the PC12-NSD in the exact same spot I had the H-100. I reran my Pioneer MCACC calibration, turned the gain on the PC12-NSD up to half way point, and turned the DB on reciever bass from +0.5 to +1.5. I'm still not getting the kinda bass I'm expecting from this. Any suggestions? Hopefully the amp in the sub isn't bad or something.

Darth Indy,

Those two subs are not in the same ball park, so something is up. Go through the list at http://www.robbroy.net/HT/SubwooferErrors.cfm one at a time. If nothing there helps, I'm sure the guys at SVS will get it right.

-Robb

Just thought of something, when I ran MCACC auto calibration on my Pioneer receiver I had the phase set to 180 on the sub. After reading that I should have the phase set to 0 I set it to 0 but didn't rerun MCACC. Could having the phase set to 180 instead of 0 when I ran MCACC be causing this? I'm thinking so and even though I went back and set phase to 0 since I didn't rerun MCACC the MCACC calibration is using the readings it got from 180 phase setting. Would be oustanding if this is the only reason and a simple recalibration would fix it.

Darth Indy,

Unlikely (I assume MCACC accounts for distance/phase), but it couldn't hurt to try.

-Robb

[deleted by T-Bone]

T-Bone,

I think that's a question for which you'll get the best answer by asking SVS directly, because we likely won't have an accurate answer. If I had to guess I'd say you'll gain a couple dB of output at most and probably obtain a flatter frequency response, but Ed or someone else from SVS will have a precise answer to your question. I'd e-mail SVS with your question...unless Ed would like to come answer it here for all to see :)

lalakersfan,

Thanks for the advice. If the SVS guys do not take a stab at it within the next few days, I'll email them.

-T

Hi everyone,

I've just ordered a PC12-NSD here in South Africa (for the same price as a PC13-ULTRA in the US! :eek: ) I'm hoping it'll live up to my expectations when it arrives in about 6 weeks :)

After reading this thread from back to front I've realised that it might not be enough for my 5000+cf apartment, although my neighbors will probably be relieved I couldn't afford an Ultra :p and I'll be using it near field. I'm mostly looking forward to the sub 30Hz stuff I've been missing with my current sub.

I've got a question about the crossover frequencies for movie use. Why do people mostly suggest to use 80Hz(or rather what makes 80Hz the sweet spot)? On my Harman Kardon amp I can configure the XO for the fronts, centre and surrounds individually. What I've done thus far was to cross the speakers over just above their rated cutoffs, in order to keep as much bass as possible in the satellites (for some directional bass) without burdening them with frequencies they cant handle. I also think most movies contain enough info in the LFE channel and the bits I filter out from the speakers to keep the subwoofer happy. Is there anything wrong with my reasoning ?

Thanks
Robert

^ I just bought a pb12-nsd. My listening room is about 2300 cf, and opens up to a dining room, kitchen, living room. In total it's about 6600 cf. Using the pb12 nearfield, in a corner, it's plenty for me. Shakes the berklines, and the rest of the listening room. (13x21x8) I think you will be very happy with the pc-12.

any pictures of the PB12 plus is rosenut???

Thanks for the reply Todd, glad to hear it works well in your larger space :D

As for my own question about the 80hz crossover I found a link on audioholics that answered it (apparently I'm not allowed to post links yet)

I recieved my pb10 2 days ago and so far I love it. Thinking of getting the svs bookshelf system to go with it.

But the problem Im getting is I can't seem to get the auto on to function. If i switch it to on and back to auto on, the sub will stay on and turn off properly when there is no signal, but I cant get it to see a signal when I just leave auto on switched on.

Robert,

I have the same svs sub and I really like it. Bass you feel on the inside.....

As for your question about 80hz, I suggest you look at some of the threads about sw setup and recommend reading one that seems like it is irrelevant. It is the Audyssey thread in the amplifier forum. There is a lot of great information in it as well as links.

gbmannc

Try inching the gain up on your receiver, to send a stronger signal to the svs. You can turn the gain down on the sub amp in order to compensate for the higher gain coming from the receiver.

gbmannc

Try inching the gain up on your receiver, to send a stronger signal to the svs. You can turn the gain down on the sub amp in order to compensate for the higher gain coming from the receiver.

That worked. Thanks

Well, I finally made up my mind after a lengthy research and decision making timeframe and ordered the PC12-Plus today!

I am setting up a home theater in a spare bedroom. Anything I should know or steps should take first?

Anyone own a cylinder? How are they to keep clean? My box gets pretty dusty but it's so easy to wipe down or dust.. Looking at a PC13-U and would like some info on that aspect. I've seen photo's of them for sale (used) and they look pretty dingy at times, but could be the flash issue too. Thanks!

fab5valentine

Well, I finally made up my mind after a lengthy research and decision making timeframe and ordered the PC12-Plus today!

I am setting up a home theater in a spare bedroom. Anything I should know or steps should take first?

As you plan the layout, avoid having your prime seats smack in the center of the room. Bad for bass. Think of ways to incorporate some sound treatment. Mix soft and hard surfaces.

Please help...

I have desperately been searching for a manual or spec sheet for the 20-39 PCi without an ounce of success. Why does SVS hide all the specs from their discontinued products?
I've searched svsound, google, AVS... nothing.
Wiped clean by the rath of God!!!

Can anyone provide anything like a pdf manual for this sub?
It would be most appreciated.

Did you try a phone call to SVS? They are a very helpful bunch of folks.

Anyone own a cylinder? How are they to keep clean? My box gets pretty dusty but it's so easy to wipe down or dust.. Looking at a PC13-U and would like some info on that aspect. I've seen photo's of them for sale (used) and they look pretty dingy at times, but could be the flash issue too. Thanks!

fab5valentine


Hi fab,

I've owned 3 different SVS cylinders (20-39PC+, PC Ultra, PC13 Ultra). They all maintained their looks very easily. Just dust the top occasionally as needed and it's like new. Since the grill is on the top it does help to pop the grill off and dust down into the ports too every once in awhile. The fabric sock looks like the day I bought it.


Tim

Did you try a phone call to SVS? They are a very helpful bunch of folks.

Not yet I havn't. Just started looking a couple hours ago. I actually found I thread I started last year asking about a similar model (the older non-PCI, non PC+ version), where a kind sir from SVS gave me a link. Somehow his post has disappeared from the thread. Amazing how even those who claim to be professionals still act like children. :rolleyes:
I'll shoot them an email tonight or call them tomorrow.
In the mean time, if anyone has anything, I'd be greatful for the info.

Thanks.

Hi fab,

I've owned 3 different SVS cylinders (20-39PC+, PC Ultra, PC13 Ultra). They all maintained their looks very easily. Just dust the top occasionally as needed and it's like new. Since the grill is on the top it does help to pop the grill off and dust down into the ports too every once in awhile. The fabric sock looks like the day I bought it.


Tim

Thank you!!! :)

-fab

Please help...

I have desperately been searching for a manual or spec sheet for the 20-39 PCi without an ounce of success. Why does SVS hide all the specs from their discontinued products?
I've searched svsound, google, AVS... nothing.
Wiped clean by the rath of God!!!

Can anyone provide anything like a pdf manual for this sub?
It would be most appreciated.

Hi Smarty,

Shoot us an e-mail at techsupport@svsound.com and we'll send you the PCi manual.

Jack is great (he's actually been helping me a lot recently) and I'd always go straight to SVS if you ever had any questions or needed official documentation. However, next time you're searching for a manual or any specific document, try using google's advance search to narrow down your results by file type. In this case, your search could look like this:

manual "20-39pci " filetype:pdf

Using this method, I was able to pull up an old doc in seconds that contained very basic specs on their old PCi line. Probably not everything you were looking for, but it's a start.

Another resource that I love using is the "Internet Archive Wayback Machine". Essentially, this search engine allows one to view and search old cached versions of websites. So, if you're looking for a doc from SVS circa '06, try going to http://www.archive.org/web/web.php and enter SVS' old site: http://www.svsubwoofers.com and then dig around that time (there's even an advanced search function too.) It's a very, very useful tool once you start playing with it.

Hi Smarty,

Shoot us an e-mail at techsupport@svsound.com and we'll send you the PCi manual.
I just sent an email. Thanks Jack. :)

Jack is great (he's actually been helping me a lot recently) and I'd always go straight to SVS if you ever had any questions or needed official documentation. However, next time you're searching for a manual or any specific document, try using google's advance search to narrow down your results by file type. In this case, your search could look like this:

manual "20-39pci " filetype:pdf

Using this method, I was able to pull up an old doc in seconds that contained very basic specs on their old PCi line. Probably not everything you were looking for, but it's a start.

Another resource that I love using is the "Internet Archive Wayback Machine". Essentially, this search engine allows one to view and search old cached versions of websites. So, if you're looking for a doc from SVS circa '06, try going to http://www.archive.org/web/web.php and enter SVS' old site: http://www.svsubwoofers.com and then dig around that time (there's even an advanced search function too.) It's a very, very useful tool once you start playing with it.
Wow! Thanks for all that. That's very good info. I do use the advanced search for Google quite often, but didn't think of doing it the way you describe. Thanks again.

PCi series Owners' Guide (http://www.svsound.com/manuals/SVS_v2007.1_PCi_manual.pdf)
PCi series specification sheet (http://www.svsound.com/CES2007/SVS_PCiSubsSheet.pdf)






.

Anyone own a cylinder? How are they to keep clean? My box gets pretty dusty but it's so easy to wipe down or dust.. Looking at a PC13-U and would like some info on that aspect. I've seen photo's of them for sale (used) and they look pretty dingy at times, but could be the flash issue too. Thanks!

fab5valentine

I have had two cylinders since the beginning of the year--easy to keep clean, do not act as untoward dust magnets, and they look a whole lot better than the pics (no dinginess). I think they look cool together--sort of The Two Towers LOR look :D

I have an SVS SB12-Plus and it works very well in my room. I'm happy with it but since I've never owned a sub before I have a question.
Do most people usually leave a subwoofer powered on all the time or do they turn it off when not in use? Is there any reason not to leave it on all the time?

I have an SVS SB12-Plus and it works very well in my room. I'm happy with it but since I've never owned a sub before I have a question.
Do most people usually leave a subwoofer powered on all the time or do they turn it off when not in use? Is there any reason not to leave it on all the time?I use the auto on/off feature with no problems. So do have delayed or failed auto on and just turn the sub on all the time. When idling, they don't use much power. It is better to leave it on all the time or use auto on than it is to switch it on and off all the time. There is an in rush when you first turn it on that can take a toll on components.

I use the auto on/off feature with no problems. So do have delayed or failed auto on and just turn the sub on all the time. When idling, they don't use much power. It is better to leave it on all the time or use auto on than it is to switch it on and off all the time. There is an in rush when you first turn it on that can take a toll on components.

Excellent. I totally forgot about that feature.
Thanks

Next week I will be ordering my PB-12 Plus. I am readying a purchase at monoprice and want to know what cable I should buy for the connection from the PB-12 Plus to my receiver (Denon 2809)? Will the RCA one linked above (http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=102&cp_id=10236&cs_id=1023603&p_id=2680&seq=1&format=1#largeimage) work? Thanks.

That's exactly what I use for for my twins (PC12-Plus) and it works just fine.

Next week I will be ordering my PB-12 Plus. I am readying a purchase at monoprice and want to know what cable I should buy for the connection from the PB-12 Plus to my receiver (Denon 2809)? Will the RCA one linked above (http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=102&cp_id=10236&cs_id=1023603&p_id=2680&seq=1&format=1#largeimage) work? Thanks.

Monoprice are great--I also favor the sub cables at Blue Jeans Cable (they have a nice Y adapter for my twin PC-12 Pluses)

I use the auto on/off feature with no problems. So do have delayed or failed auto on and just turn the sub on all the time. When idling, they don't use much power. It is better to leave it on all the time or use auto on than it is to switch it on and off all the time. There is an in rush when you first turn it on that can take a toll on components.
The auto on/off feature works fine but it turns on when the Blu-Ray player is the source and off when the cable set top box is the source. Is there a way to get the sub to power on with all sources? Is this a setting somewhere in my AVR?

i've recently purchased an pb10-nsd, and i'm wondering if i should've gotten the pb12-nsd or even the pb12-plus. i'd like to upgade and would like to know if there will be a significant difference between the two different 12" versions. and what kind of difference? will it sound better? be louder? go lower? will it be an appreciable difference? the plus is twice the price of the nsd and as the pb10 is my first sub, i don't really understand what i'd be getting for the price difference. any help would be appreciated.

I just got my PB 12 Plus yesterday however I think there is something wrong with it. I hooked it up this morning and it is just lacking power. The bass is very low and I have to turn the gain all the way up to hear the bass. I have tried the audessey and disabled it and it sounds the same. All pq are turned counter clockwise and crossover disabled. I have also swapped cables and I have the same problem. Any thoughts?? Unfortunately I probably have to wait until monday till svs opens :(

Unfortunately I probably have to wait until monday till svs opens :(Email them now. Someone is almost always on at customer support.

At SVS, you'll get prompt responses to any of your questions or concerns 7 days a week, with a note about your concern or question, or a personal call back, should you prefer that. We usually get you an answer in a matter of hours, usually minutes! If somehow we miss your note (or just don't receive it -- it happens!), yank our chain and resend!

Send to:
techsupport@svsound.com

What is up with the SVS cylindrical monster? Is its advantage in small footprint of sound for its pricepoint? Also, I was curious if any different rules apply in its positioning in the room? Does it yield any more flexibility with positioning? I heard the rule of thumb is to place a sub in a corner if at all possible.

Email them now. Someone is almost always on at customer support.

At SVS, you'll get prompt responses to any of your questions or concerns 7 days a week, with a note about your concern or question, or a personal call back, should you prefer that. We usually get you an answer in a matter of hours, usually minutes! If somehow we miss your note (or just don't receive it -- it happens!), yank our chain and resend!

Send to:
techsupport@svsound.com

Hey thanks. I emailed them. They got back to me once so far today. They wanted me to make sure that it wasn't my avr. They really do have great customer service and they said they will get it fixed no problem. Stinks though that it isn't working.

What is up with the SVS cylindrical monster? Is its advantage in small footprint of sound for its pricepoint? Also, I was curious if any different rules apply in its positioning in the room? Does it yield any more flexibility with positioning? I heard the rule of thumb is to place a sub in a corner if at all possible.I went with a cylinder for yeah, the small footprint (easier to tuck into a corner), not to mention the lighter weight (much easier to move around by myself). Also, for my cramped studio apartment, a sub that takes up vertical space rather than horizontal seemed to make sense. Positioning rules still apply, except that the port's on top instead of the front. But the cylinder and box versions of each sub sound the same.

I went with a cylinder for yeah, the small footprint (easier to tuck into a corner), not to mention the lighter weight (much easier to move around by myself). Also, for my cramped studio apartment, a sub that takes up vertical space rather than horizontal seemed to make sense. Positioning rules still apply, except that the port's on top instead of the front. But the cylinder and box versions of each sub sound the same.

Hmmm....I hope with the port being on top and the height of that port being closer to ear level, that listeneres would not be able to sonically localize the sub. I need to place my sub directly to the corner of my sectional, but that would probably have the sub directly behind some listeners, and directly to the right of center seats. Should I maybe think of a slim sub instead like the A3-250?

Deepstang-I have a small HT, only two seats with two PC-12 pluses. Each sub is at ear level and in the corner behind each seat. Maybe three feet from each recliner. And I don't experience any sonically localization at all. They simple rock my house while watching movies, and I personnally think they are just as good with music. Eric

Thanks for the info guys. Last question...is the PC12-NSD a better performer compared to the PB12-NSD

i've recently purchased an pb10-nsd, and i'm wondering if i should've gotten the pb12-nsd or even the pb12-plus. i'd like to upgade and would like to know if there will be a significant difference between the two different 12" versions. and what kind of difference? will it sound better? be louder? go lower? will it be an appreciable difference? the plus is twice the price of the nsd and as the pb10 is my first sub, i don't really understand what i'd be getting for the price difference. any help would be appreciated.

I hope you receive your answers, as I am curious also. It seems that you are not satisfied with your PB10-NSD. Do you have it placed in a corner? How big is your listening room?

Thanks for the info guys. Last question...is the PC12-NSD a better performer compared to the PB12-NSDThere should be no audible difference between the two. Just pick whichever form factor works best for you and rest easy. :)

As for sketch2099's concerns, I'd venture that he's just experiencing "what if I had only spent a little more?" upgradeitis. Happens to just about everyone on here, even the dudes who spent several thousands on subs. It's tough for anyone to answer his questions without more specifics about his room, though. Typically, however, the lower down the product line your purchase is, the more "bang for the buck" it is--and the price curve gets steeper and steeper the more refinement you seek. Stepping up to the PB12-NSD might get you a bit more output capability, stepping up further to the Plus would get you even more output, somewhat better sound quality, and EQ and tuning options (to better customize the sub's frequency response to your room). You may not hear much of an audible difference depending on your room, your ears and how loud you listen. Whether that extra coin is worth peace of mind and staving off the upgrade bug, though, is up to you.

:D:D:DThere should be no audible difference between the two. Just pick whichever form factor works best for you and rest easy. :)

As for sketch2099's concerns, I'd venture that he's just experiencing "what if I had only spent a little more?" upgradeitis. Happens to just about everyone on here, even the dudes who spent several thousands on subs. It's tough for anyone to answer his questions without more specifics about his room, though. Typically, however, the lower down the product line your purchase is, the more "bang for the buck" it is--and the price curve gets steeper and steeper the more refinement you seek. Stepping up to the PB12-NSD might get you a bit more output capability, stepping up further to the Plus would get you even more output, somewhat better sound quality, and EQ and tuning options (to better customize the sub's frequency response to your room). You may not hear much of an audible difference depending on your room, your ears and how loud you listen. Whether that extra coin is worth peace of mind and staving off the upgrade bug, though, is up to you.

You are so right about the what if? I started out with one PC12-NSD??? And got bit by the bug hard.

There should be no audible difference between the two. Just pick whichever form factor works best for you and rest easy. :)

As for sketch2099's concerns, I'd venture that he's just experiencing "what if I had only spent a little more?" upgradeitis. Happens to just about everyone on here, even the dudes who spent several thousands on subs. It's tough for anyone to answer his questions without more specifics about his room, though. Typically, however, the lower down the product line your purchase is, the more "bang for the buck" it is--and the price curve gets steeper and steeper the more refinement you seek. Stepping up to the PB12-NSD might get you a bit more output capability, stepping up further to the Plus would get you even more output, somewhat better sound quality, and EQ and tuning options (to better customize the sub's frequency response to your room). You may not hear much of an audible difference depending on your room, your ears and how loud you listen. Whether that extra coin is worth peace of mind and staving off the upgrade bug, though, is up to you.


thanks for the input. i definitely have upgrdaeitis and want to get over it. i've decided that i'm going to go ahead and go all the way and get an ultra sub. i know it's a dramatic step up from the pb10, but after looking at all of the HT gear i've bought over the past couple of years, i realized that i would've saved money had i just bought what i really wanted at the beginning instead of spending money on entry level gear and then upgrading later.

and on that note, will there be a difference in sound between the box ultra versus the cylinder ultra? i've heard a lot of comments that the lower models all sound the same between the boxes and cylinders, but am unsure about the ultra series.

also, i asked this in another thread, but you guys in this thread are pretty helpful so i'll ask it again here: has anyone compared any of the ultra's to the axiom EP500 sub? it's about the same price as the PC13 ultra, and i would prefer box shape, especially something smaller and more lightweight than the PB13 ultra.

Wow, PB-10 to the Ultra, that's one way to stave off upgradeitis. I just picked up a PC-12NSD last week and already am wondering "what if" on the Plus, torturing myself daily by checking the SVS b-stock page. Ultimately I think I'll be able to hold firm, at least long enough until I get distracted by another toy.

Besides, I look at resisting the upgrade bug as a good exercise of discipline and willpower. :)

Here's a couple shots of my PB12-NSD:

http://i558.photobucket.com/albums/ss26/thetoddlee/5-12-09095.jpg

http://i558.photobucket.com/albums/ss26/thetoddlee/5-12-09096.jpg

thanks for the input. i definitely have upgrdaeitis and want to get over it. i've decided that i'm going to go ahead and go all the way and get an ultra sub. i know it's a dramatic step up from the pb10, but after looking at all of the HT gear i've bought over the past couple of years, i realized that i would've saved money had i just bought what i really wanted at the beginning instead of spending money on entry level gear and then upgrading later.

and on that note, will there be a difference in sound between the box ultra versus the cylinder ultra? i've heard a lot of comments that the lower models all sound the same between the boxes and cylinders, but am unsure about the ultra series.

also, i asked this in another thread, but you guys in this thread are pretty helpful so i'll ask it again here: has anyone compared any of the ultra's to the axiom EP500 sub? it's about the same price as the PC13 ultra, and i would prefer box shape, especially something smaller and more lightweight than the PB13 ultra.

i've had both the Axiom EP500 and PB13Ultra (not the cylinder, sorry)
but they're just not in the same class.

the EP500 is tuned to 25hz in a small enclosure.
the Ultra has a better driver, bigger enclosure, more amp power.

Here's a couple shots of my PB12-NSD:
(images)Is it recommended to plug the sub directly into a wall socket like that?

Is it recommended to plug the sub directly into a wall socket like that?


It's actually on a power strip/surge suppressor.

This one: http://www.fellowes.com/fellowes/site/products/ProductDetails.aspx?Id=99090

Maybe that's not the best thing to use? Please advise.:confused:

i've had both the Axiom EP500 and PB13Ultra (not the cylinder, sorry)
but they're just not in the same class.

the EP500 is tuned to 25hz in a small enclosure.
the Ultra has a better driver, bigger enclosure, more amp power.

that's what i thought, but i think the ep500 is the probably the best compromise of the most bass for the smallest size. i really would love to have clean loud bass below 20 hz, but i just can't get over how damn big and heavy those ultras are.

To get deep bass below 20hz in a small footprint, you could go to Rythmiks or HSU ULS-15, but you may have to go with duals to get loud down there.

that's what i thought, but i think the ep500 is the probably the best compromise of the most bass for the smallest size. i really would love to have clean loud bass below 20 hz, but i just can't get over how damn big and heavy those ultras are.Mike's suggestion's are good...also, look at the Epik Sentinel, Dragon and Phoenix.

My room is a treated 2000 cu foot room. With a PB-10 ISD and a 20-39 PCi, what should I expect to see on my SPL.
Taking delivery of the 20-39 today.

My room is a treated 2000 cu foot room. With a PB-10 ISD and a 20-39 PCi, what should I expect to see on my SPL.
Taking delivery of the 20-39 today.

It totally depends on subwoofer placement (with regard to each other and to the LP), as well as where the LP is in the room, the shape of the room, and whether the room is sealed or open to other areas. Assuming a sealed 2000 cubic foot room I'd assume the 20-39 PCi is capable of anywhere between 103-110dB peaks. Adding the PB10 could bump that up from 2-5dB depending on its placement in relation to the 20-39 PCi. I'm interested to know your results. I personally had dual PB10-NSD's in a ~1000 cubic foot room and achieved peaks of about 113-114dB at my LP, if that helps give you a point of reference.

It totally depends on subwoofer placement (with regard to each other and to the LP), as well as where the LP is in the room, the shape of the room, and whether the room is sealed or open to other areas. Assuming a sealed 2000 cubic foot room I'd assume the 20-39 PCi is capable of anywhere between 103-110dB peaks. Adding the PB10 could bump that up from 2-5dB depending on its placement in relation to the 20-39 PCi. I'm interested to know your results. I personally had dual PB10-NSD's in a ~1000 cubic foot room and achieved peaks of about 113-114dB at my LP, if that helps give you a point of reference.

Thanks for the info. Hopfully I will get some decent pressure in there. The room is a new theater/media room for me, and I still don't have the door installed, but it will be soon and then the room will be sealed.
Unfortunately, due to the way the room is setup, there is limited placement of the subs. Most likely, the PB-10 will be front and center directly under the center channel, and the 20-39 will be near the rear corner next to my A/V rack. Hopfully this will not cause havoc with my gear.

I'd look at the PC-13 Ultra for a small 16" foot print or ditto on on what RT says for the Epik line..

http://www.epiksubwoofers.com/sealeddragon.html

This can get you near 15hrtz in room in a 20x20x20. I'd think of the Axiom if it were around $950or less -but NOT..

Think what you could do with two Dagons; and for some a preffered sealed set-up..

My2cents

I just got my ultra today. I ran audessy and put in the incredible hulk and turned it to the scene where they shoot the hulk with sound waves. I usually watch movies at about 20 or so, and only had the volume at 38 because of my 3 year old asleep in the room.

Anyway, right after they turn on the sound weapon against the hulk, it pops my ultra. The woofer almost comes clear out of the box and sets on the floor. I have to be doing something wrong. That sub should not bottom out at those low volumes. It was not overly loud on any other scenes or with music.

Any suggestions of what I might have done wrong setting it up?

I just got my ultra today. I ran audessy and put in the incredible hulk and turned it to the scene where they shoot the hulk with sound waves. I usually watch movies at about 20 or so, and only had the volume at 38 because of my 3 year old asleep in the room.

Anyway, right after they turn on the sound weapon against the hulk, it pops my ultra. The woofer almost comes clear out of the box and sets on the floor. I have to be doing something wrong. That sub should not bottom out at those low volumes. It was not overly loud on any other scenes or with music.

Any suggestions of what I might have done wrong setting it up?

What is the gain set at on your sub? What is your sub trim level in your AVR? What tune are you in? Are you using PEQ or room comp? Have you make any FR graphs either manually or using something like REW? Are you using Dynamic EQ? Did you do the subwoofer crawl test to verify you have your sub in a good spot?

What is the gain set at on your sub? What is your sub trim level in your AVR? What tune are you in? Are you using PEQ or room comp? Have you make any FR graphs either manually or using something like REW? Are you using Dynamic EQ? Did you do the subwoofer crawl test to verify you have your sub in a good spot?

My subs gain is at half, and the room comp was large. I have an almost 3000 cubic foot room, that opens into other rooms. No PEQ on, I'm in the 20hz tune. I was using the dynamic eq, and my sub level in my avr was at -2. My volume on my AVR was at -38, and I usually watch movies at about -20.

i have since set my room comp to medium and it didn't do it, but you could tell it was really close, to popping again. I have never heard of anyone else having this problem, especially at such low volumes.

The sub also seems very loose sounding with music. It's not near as tight, and punchy as I expected. Either I really have something messed up with the settings, or something is wrong with the sub.

I've been in touch with SVS and I'm sure they will take care of me, if need be. I hope it's just me being an idiot, but No louder then I had it, I just can't see anything I could have done, to make the sub pop like that.

the soundwave scene in the Hulk has 10hz content in it ... it will pop just about any ported subwoofer at a high enough drive level.
i'm using my ultras in the 15hz tune with large room comp each at a quarter gain and it doesn't pop with this scene.

did you use an SPL meter to level match your subwoofer and mains? half gain on the sub plate amp is pretty high for anything 0db and above on the subwoofer channel trim on the receiver.

how far are you from the subwoofer?

My subs gain is at half, and the room comp was large. I have an almost 3000 cubic foot room, that opens into other rooms. No PEQ on, I'm in the 20hz tune. I was using the dynamic eq, and my sub level in my avr was at -2. My volume on my AVR was at -38, and I usually watch movies at about -20.

i have since set my room comp to medium and it didn't do it, but you could tell it was really close, to popping again. I have never heard of anyone else having this problem, especially at such low volumes.

The sub also seems very loose sounding with music. It's not near as tight, and punchy as I expected. Either I really have something messed up with the settings, or something is wrong with the sub.

I've been in touch with SVS and I'm sure they will take care of me, if need be. I hope it's just me being an idiot, but No louder then I had it, I just can't see anything I could have done, to make the sub pop like that.Pickup an SPL meter, turn Audyessey off, calibrate manually...I don't know if it's user error or not, but try it vanilla first. On the music side, the Ultra is a true sub vs a midbass module like your Polk. It sounds completely different. You won't experience midbass bloom, but it should be percussive and extremely clean with little or no overhang. There are a ton of conditions that come into play. Follow Ed Mullen's setup instructions after communicating with him. You'll be up and happy in no time.

I've been playing with it some more, and I think the hulk scene is a fluke. Nothing else has even come close to popping it again. One thing I have noticed is that this sub plays so low that it kind of upsets my stomach. I had a crazy car stereo when I was young, and it didn't come close to going as low as the ultra. I can't wait to really get more time with this beast.

I had no idea that so many scenes in movies and games had subsonic sound. Socom is crazy when shooting a gun on it. The whole room shakes from the bass, but the sound really doesn't seem to have that much bass. When grenades go off, it seems like the walls are going to cave in.

I still can't believe that hulk scene did what it did though. It's almost like they added to much level to that sound when they mixed it.

What tune and what subsonic filter setting did you have the Ultra in during the Hulk Cannons scene?

what tune and what subsonic filter setting did you have the ultra in during the hulk cannons scene?

my subs gain is at half, and the room comp was large. I have an almost 3000 cubic foot room, that opens into other rooms. No peq on, i'm in the 20hz tune. I was using the dynamic eq, and my sub level in my avr was at -2. My volume on my avr was at -38, and i usually watch movies at about -20.

:d

If you have your sub gain at 12:00 and your avr sub trim level is at -2, then I would deduce that your listening position is in a nasty null.

If I put one of my ultras very much past 9:00 then my receiver puts my sub trim level at -12 (max cut possible).

Try putting the sub in your listening position. That's right... move your couch/chair and put the sub where your couch/chair was. Play some music with lots of bass or some 30 hz sine waves (be careful, only play it for 10 sec or so at a time) and crawl around your room to find the place where the bass sounds the best to you. Loudest bass isn't always the best bass, but that's neither here nor there.

When you find the spot in your room that sounds the best, that is where you need to put your sub.

:d

I was obviously paying close attention...:cool:

Is the amplifier on the PB Ultra 13 considered DSP?

Hi chaps,

I have a PC ultra and hate the vent noise you get when you play it loud. Do you get the same with the PB ultra.

cheers

Graham

Hi chaps,

I have a PC ultra and hate the vent noise you get when you play it loud. Do you get the same with the PB ultra.

cheers

Graham

Hi,

Yes I get vent noise when played loud and driver noise. Although not anymore since I built a DIY sub to use with my pb-13u.

Cheers

Hi there,

Wow! driver noise. Never had that on the PC ultra. Do all ported subs have this trait. I was also looking at ED subs with much bigger ports but am at a dead end.

cheers

Wow, bothersome port noise from the eD ULTRA?

My current Velodyne has low distortion with no port noise. I also hear SVS does not have issues with port noise (when I inquire about their Cylindrical subs with the port close to ear level):confused:

I was tempted to upgrade to a eD A2-300 or A3-300...but now I am hesitant.

I was looking at the ED A7 - 450 because of the 6 inch ports.

It would really be nice to listen to low low bass at loud volumes with no noise at all.

Is this really not possible with any sub. Not including custom subs


cheers

Hi chaps,

I have a PC ultra and hate the vent noise you get when you play it loud. Do you get the same with the PB ultra.

cheers

GrahamWhat tuning do you have the Ultra set at?

Wow, bothersome port noise from the eD ULTRA??:eek::eek:

My current Velodyne has low distortion with no port noise. I also hear SVS does not have issues with port noise (when I inquire about their Cylindrical subs with the port close to ear level):confused:

I was tempted to upgrade to a eD A2-300 or A3-300...but now I am hesitant.

Out of curiosity which Velodyne model do you have and have you considered the SVS PB-10 along with the eD models?

Out of curiosity which Velodyne model do you have and have you considered the SVS PB-10 along with the eD models?

Velodyne DLS-3750. Yes I have considered the PB-10 and have asked of this comparison numerous times on this forum the last few weeks :), so if you can shed some light please do.

Because of a new sectional I had to move my sub away from it's corner and now it sits at the end of the sectional (and wall), but is positioned towards the center of the room. The bass response has greatly been reduced, and now I am desperately trying to figure out what to do.

I was even contemplating squeezing a cylindrical SVS in the corner:

http://www.svsound.com/products-sub-cyl-pc12_nsd.cfm

Friend if mine is desperately looking for a SVS PB 13 Ultra used or B stock.. the 1 seller on Audiogon hasn't responded to him after several attempts so he gave up. Any ideas from anyone?

Desperate people are usually the ones who spend more money to get what they want/need right now.
Patient people will wait till eventually the right opportunity presents itself.

Desperate people are usually the ones who spend more money to get what they want/need right now.
Patient people will wait till eventually the right opportunity presents itself.

Thanks Gandhi.. ;)

This is off the subject but I was wondering if there is any benefit to elevating your sub12" or more off the floor? Could possible use a Auralex Gramma setting on top of a pedestal. Would there be any effect on sound and if so what type of effects might be noticeable? Thanks for any feedback.

im getting a new HT system for my bedroom game system setup. I got everything locked in except for the sub

kinda between the svs pb12ND, ED A3-300, or maybe an epic sentinal.. though thats slightly higher than i wanted to go (700 dollar budget, if i was gonna hit 800 i may as well ge tthe a5-350)

anyway been lookin at reviews and stuff and noticed that the a3-300 doesn't come with a manual or documentation or anything.. .i dont really know much about audio gear and a manual/specs sheet/setup guide is actually pretty important to me. Does this sub come with one? or do all ID subs come with nothing?

.i dont really know much about audio gear and a manual/specs sheet/setup guide is actually pretty important to me. Does this sub come with one? or do all ID subs come with nothing?Yes

Hello all!

I am looking to get a new sub in the future and am looking for advice/reviews.
I currently own a Klipsch set-up:

RF-25x2-Mains
RS-52x2-Surrounds
RC-62-Center
RW-8-Subwoofer

Before this I owned a Klipsch Quintet lll Set-up and the RW-8 was more than prefect for that. The little RW-8 really puts out alot of sound for its size. Anyways, I don't think I am going to go over $1000 for a sub. I don't want to have to upgrade again anytime soon, but I figure I can get some real quality for that price. I have seen the Klipsch RT-10d for around $800 shipped but I have heard alot of good things about SVS. So I figure you guys know more than me, so here I am. Oh and right now I am in a moderate sized apartment but that will change. Don't care what the neighbors think, they play there stuff as loud as they want. So I figure I can show them what real bass sounds like. I do about 50/50 between music and HT. Thank-you all in advance.

-Kirk-

We need to know what your neighbors are using so we can point you to something that will put them to shame.:)

Of course, if you do that, they will stop playing so loud and will complain about your volume.;)

From what I can tell is that all of them older KLH's. My RW-8 keeps up, but I think it is time to blow them out of the water. :D

The little RW-8 really puts out alot of sound for its size.



I agree. I've had an RW-8 with some RB10's, RC-10 and some Klipsch in-ceilings and this little sub has held it's own. I did go with an SVS SB12-Plus in my living room and have been nothing but impressed with the SVS brand so far.

When I upgrade the Klipsch speakers in my den (I want to go with floorstanders), I may look in to an Epik sub.

Till then the RW-8 is still on duty :D!

I am really leaning toward the PC12-NSD but is there enough difference to upgrade to the plus. $400 is alot of money right now, but I can always save longer :)

-Kirk-

I am really leaning toward the PC12-NSD but is there enough difference to upgrade to the plus. $400 is alot of money right now, but I can always save longer :)

-Kirk-A couple years ago, I would have said it's a no brainer. Not so sure any more. The Plus is a better sub with a more linear and stronger driver, more power, can be tuned lower or higher, and has more features (if you use them). All that is worth the price difference only if it is worth it to you. It is to me.

My 7yr old 20-39CS+ is getting lonely these days, its looking to settle down and share the load. If anyone in the New England area with a 20-39PC+ has the upgrade bug, let me help you realize your goal...send me a PM. ;)

My 7yr old 20-39CS+ is getting lonely these days, its looking to settle down and share the load. If anyone in the New England area with a 20-39PC+ has the upgrade bug, let me help you realize your goal...send me a PM. ;)
I saw one on Craigslist a couple days ago. Probably not in your area though.

I saw one on Craigslist a couple days ago. Probably not in your area though.

Yeah, that was a PC13 Ultra and he wanted $1k. Its not there anymore. Besides, I'm trying to match up to mine so I can maintain as even SQ as possible.

There was one that came up on agon in metro Boston but it got sold before I could do anything. Then mysteriously the same model came up for sale in Vt (even had the same description - no user manual, no plugs, etc.) as a "recently purchased but I must sell because its too big" listing (at almost twice the previous listings price mind you!) and I was so convinced it was the same one and had a problem that I was hesitant. Then before I could do anything, THAT one got sold.

I wish I had never seen Ilkka's PB13-Ultra traces at the htshack. :eek: That thing is unvelievable. But since a pair of those isn't going to happen without divorce papers I figure for now I'll just try to buddy up the existing one until I can figure out what to do.

I could swing one Ultra (although their back ordered now) but I my sub is nearfield (rear corner) and the other side of the room is somewhat open so this means its directional much more than I'd like it to be. No real complaints about the SQ or oomph-factor, I just want more even bass, it feels a bit side loaded now at times and I know a second sub mounted on the other side of the room will help greatly with that.

SVS 20-39 PC+ for sale (http://houston.craigslist.org/ele/1190651138.html)

well, pulled the trigger on my new sound system/reciever today. A def tech setup with a pioneer elite sc-05. I decided to do an ID sub, and after looking around its narrowed down to a SVS or ED.. epik was in the conention but the fact that they are not on sale, and both the ED's and SVS's are edged them out. My budgets about 700 bucks and the PB12-NSD at 550 is pretty tempting. Im also looking at the ED a3-300.

someone mentioned that the svs's come with manuals, can anyone confirm this? Its actually kinda an important feature to me since i dont know much about audio setup.

also its hard to tell from the pics on the site. what knobs does it have? does it have a phase control? How about a regular ON/OFF setting instead of just AUTO on. The ed only has an auto on feature which i dont find appealing. If the a5-350 was still on sale for around 700 bucks id probalby go for that although i think 15" might be too much for my room (18X13, sealed bedroom) So i guess its between this SVS or the a3-300 ed.

i'll have to call tomorow for details i guess. Anyone here had any experience with ED, or heard the svs stacked against it? just wondering how they compare, they appear very similar honestly, and i think they have free shipping at ED

SVS 20-39 PC+ for sale (http://houston.craigslist.org/ele/1190651138.html)

Don't tempt me! I've been slowing saving up for a PC12-NSD...but it's hard to beat that price on the 20-39 PC+...

someone mentioned that the svs's come with manuals, can anyone confirm this? Its actually kinda an important feature to me since i dont know much about audio setup.

Yes, every SVS sub comes with a manual. You can even view the manual online.

also its hard to tell from the pics on the site. what knobs does it have? does it have a phase control? How about a regular ON/OFF setting instead of just AUTO on. The ed only has an auto on feature which i don't find appealing. If the a5-350 was still on sale for around 700 bucks id probably go for that although i think 15" might be too much for my room (18X13, sealed bedroom) So i guess its between this SVS or the a3-300 ed.Look at THIS (http://www.svsound.com/pix/pb12_nsd_amp_hires.jpg) and you will see a larger pic of the amp. The auto/on switch is just above the phase knob. Why it's there instead of next to the power switch, who knows.

Don't tempt me! I've been slowing saving up for a PC12-NSD...but it's hard to beat that price on the 20-39 PC+...

I wouldn't bother. That 20-39PC+ is 4 years old so it's out of warranty. In the event something goes wrong, it's out of your pocket. Also, I wouldn't be surprised if the current PC12-NSD performs rather closely to the 4 year old Plus. It's possible the only real advantage the Plus has is variable tuning.

tnx guys, i wound up going with an ED-350. The main problem was the shipping charge with svs, that put it right up to my 700 dollar budget and i figured if im spending that much i may as well just spend an extra 50 or so and get the 15" sub from ED. Free shipping is a big draw. Even if i stayed at 12" i would have saved money because of the shipping and sale price they're having right now.

tnx for all the info you guys gave, these look like good subs too

I'm considering purchasing either the svs pb-10 nsd or the eD A2-300. I am mainly concerned with getting the lowest lows with authority. I will mostly be using it for H.T. If money is not a consideration which sub would have the best SQ for H.T.? Which sub actually goes the lowest? Thanks for any feedback. The room is 10'x12'x8'.

Took the plunge and bought PC-12Plus to replace my Velodyne DLS4000R. Do I need to run-in this sub to avoid any damage in the long-run?

Eager to know how it would perform against my current sub.

Took the plunge and bought PC-12Plus to replace my Velodyne DLS4000R. Do I need to run-in this sub to avoid any damage in the long-run?

Eager to know how it would perform against my current sub.

break in? just enjoy the bass tracks and bass heavy movies you have for a night ... that's it. :)

you do need to re-calibrate your system / re-balance the channels though.

break in? just enjoy the bass tracks and bass heavy movies you have for a night ... that's it. :)

you do need to re-calibrate your system / re-balance the channels though.:) Tks a lot for the info.

Yeah, I am going to calibrate the SVS to match the SPL level -75db of my other speakers. Rat shack meter is on standby.

Took the plunge and bought PC-12Plus to replace my Velodyne DLS4000R. Do I need to run-in this sub to avoid any damage in the long-run?

Eager to know how it would perform against my current sub.

Congrats! Please post your follow up comparison and review. I have a 3750R and am debating if I should step into a 12" SVS sub.

Nah...don't do that! Step up to the PB13-U instead....you won't be sorry (just your walls and windows)!:eek:


Congrats! Please post your follow up comparison and review. I have a 3750R and am debating if I should step into a 12" SVS sub.

My SVS NSD PB10 blew its fuse for the first time when watching TV last week. I finally figured out how to get the fuse compartment open. Sadly mine didnt come with a spare, as was supposed to be the case per the manual and reviews.

I am having a hard time finding a repalcement fuse in the stores.

Anyone replaced their fuse on their PB10 yet and if so where did you get them from?

Mine says:
T3.15AL250VP
Not sure which mfg brand it is as the characters/symbols are hard to decipher

So I assume its 3.15 amps and 250 volts
should I get a fast or slow blow?
This detailed info isn't in the manual

Whats the best online or retail store to find fuses for subs?

Post or PM me please

Its hard being without your sub for 2 weeks when you have a bunch of new blu-rays to watch :)

Much appreciated

Thanks

King Lerxt

I just got my ultra today. I ran audessy and put in the incredible hulk and turned it to the scene where they shoot the hulk with sound waves. I usually watch movies at about 20 or so, and only had the volume at 38 because of my 3 year old asleep in the room.

Anyway, right after they turn on the sound weapon against the hulk, it pops my ultra. The woofer almost comes clear out of the box and sets on the floor. I have to be doing something wrong. That sub should not bottom out at those low volumes. It was not overly loud on any other scenes or with music.

Any suggestions of what I might have done wrong setting it up?

Haha - the Incredible Hulk is a crazy movie for bass and one of the ones they warn folks to lower the volume/gain so as to not blow your speakers/sub

kinglerxt -- Why don't you just call SVS and ask them about the fuse details. They should be able to tell you where to get one. Calling is faster than emailing them.

My SVS NSD PB10 blew its fuse for the first time when watching TV last week. I finally figured out how to get the fuse compartment open. Sadly mine didnt come with a spare, as was supposed to be the case per the manual and reviews.

I am having a hard time finding a repalcement fuse in the stores.

Anyone replaced their fuse on their PB10 yet and if so where did you get them from?

Mine says:
T3.15AL250VP
Not sure which mfg brand it is as the characters/symbols are hard to decipher

So I assume its 3.15 amps and 250 volts
should I get a fast or slow blow?
This detailed info isn't in the manual

Whats the best online or retail store to find fuses for subs?

Post or PM me please

Its hard being without your sub for 2 weeks when you have a bunch of new blu-rays to watch :)

Much appreciated

Thanks

King Lerxt

Hi King,

3.15A slo-blow is what you need. There should have been a spare included (drop us a line at techsupport@svsound.com if there wasn't), but you can bring the blown one into Radio Shack and they'll match it for you.

Nah...don't do that! Step up to the PB13-U instead....you won't be sorry (just your walls and windows)!:eek:

Seriously folks, we can't stress this enough. If you are one of those people who will wonder about what could have been (in this case, getting a middle of the line sub vs top of the line), then get top of the line and save yourself the listing and selling time. I was one of those people who bought the PC+, then wondered what the Ultra13 would be like when it came out. Had the PC+ for about 2 years and sold it for an Ultra! There was quite a difference in sound quality.

Seriously folks, we can't stress this enough. If you are one of those people who will wonder about what could have been (in this case, getting a middle of the line sub vs top of the line), then get top of the line and save yourself the listing and selling time. I was one of those people who bought the PC+, then wondered what the Ultra13 would be like when it came out. Had the PC+ for about 2 years and sold it for an Ultra! There was quite a difference in sound quality.

you on My350z?

i just ordered TWO pb12 plus's instead of a ultra. i should be able to achieve what i want with two of these bad ass drivers..


although the ultra is tempting. it is not the end all solution to every customer.

:cool:

you on My350z?

i just ordered TWO pb12 plus's instead of a ultra. i should be able to achieve what i want with two of these bad ass drivers..


although the ultra is tempting. it is not the end all solution to every customer.

:cool:

I've got a 300zxTT Stage 3+ right now and am on TT.net.

And you will be very happy with 2 PB12+s, but if he's only going 1 sub, then the Ultra is the way to go. That was my point.

I've got a 300zxTT Stage 3+ right now and am on TT.net.

And you will be very happy with 2 PB12+s, but if he's only going 1 sub, then the Ultra is the way to go. That was my point.

nice what kind of power u putting down?

i got a TT G35

and i agree with your analogy! :D

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y291/paranormalg35/IMG_3993.jpg

We got to keep this thread on topic. I'll shoot ya a PM.

Funny I also have a G35 TT, one of my many cars. It would be cool to install some SVS subs in it.

http://www.djgcue.com/dsc01415.jpg

www.djgcue.com

Funny I also have a G35 TT, one of my many cars.

Is that the official House Of Nannies company car?:D

Hey guys,

Could anyone take a stab at what a good selling price might be for a 5-6 year old 25-31 PC+ would be?

Thanks!
Aaron

Quick noobie question:

What exactly is the difference between the PB-13 Ultra and the PC-13 Ultra, and similarly, between the PB12-Plus and the PC-12 Plus? Just the shape and weight? Do they sound the same? Thanks.

Something to note with regards to NSD vs Plus is that the tuning feature is often not trivial. You might think "Oh that is only for really picky people, I won't worry." That was my feeling on it, and I was going to get an NSD. I actually decided on the PC+ just because I wanted more power, the tuning wasn't a big concern...

However I'm glad I did get the PC+ for the tuning. The room gain thing? It's no joke in many rooms, mine included. There was a big spike up around 20Hz when in its default tuning. Made the ultra low end just way too intense. So since I had a tunable sub, someone suggested I tune it. I knocked in a port plug and dropped it to 16Hz. Fixed the problem nicely. It flattened off that 20Hz spike, and the sub goes flat all the way down to 13Hz now. The conta-sub frequencies really aren't all that useful (though you can hear down around 16Hz, I tried it, though just barely) but the flattened response is great.

Thus I really think the tuning is a feature very much worth considering. It isn't so much a case of "I need bass below 20Hz," it is a case of "My damn room is amplifying bass around 20Hz too much."

Given the price of a sub EQ, I think it is well worth it to get the PC+. While it might not fix all the problems it can often deal with a big one. Besides, seems a little silly to buy a cheap sub, then spend more than the sub on an EQ to fix a problem that maybe a better sub would have fixed :D.

Rebel: I think the shape is the only real difference. I've not heard both but looking at the graphs there's only a minor difference in response, and then only up in the high end where you should have crossed over to speakers long ago.

If you do look at the box sub, make sure you actually measure to make sure it'll fit. I got a cylinder sub and I was still not prepared for how huge the thing would be. You get so used to seeing the tiny subs most companies sell that it is a shock how big the SVS subs are.

You are absolutely right about the tuning. It's a great option to have in order to optimize the sub either for you room or your tastes.

On that topic what exactly constitutes a significant "spike" (or dip)? What range can be considered an acceptably flat curve? Using AVIA and an SPL meter my PC12-NSD's frequency response seems to stay within +/-4db. Is that an acceptable response or should I start looking into EQ?

That's pretty good without eq. How do you like the way it sounds?

On that topic what exactly constitutes a significant "spike" (or dip)? What range can be considered an acceptably flat curve? Using AVIA and an SPL meter my PC12-NSD's frequency response seems to stay within +/-4db. Is that an acceptable response or should I start looking into EQ?

Have you taken into account SPL meter correction? See: http://www.svsound.com/questions-faqs-rscomp.cfm

-Robb

I took those corrections into account from 30Hz and below...above that the corrections seemed fairly insignificant given my very unscientific eyeballing of the meter in lieu of detailed graphing. (I merely ran sweeps three times in a row and just watched the meter.)

Truth be told I don't hear all that much of an SQ difference between this and my old JBL, but the "feel" of it and the presence are a hell of a lot different. But then I never use it for music, and maybe SQ is more of a factor there than in HT.

I suppose my question is whether EQing a $600 sub with (what seems to be) an already fairly decent in-room response would be worth looking into. What sort of improvements could I expect to hear?

I took those corrections into account from 30Hz and below...above that the corrections seemed fairly insignificant given my very unscientific eyeballing of the meter in lieu of detailed graphing. (I merely ran sweeps three times in a row and just watched the meter.)

Truth be told I don't hear all that much of an SQ difference between this and my old JBL, but the "feel" of it and the presence are a hell of a lot different. But then I never use it for music, and maybe SQ is more of a factor there than in HT.

I suppose my question is whether EQing a $600 sub with (what seems to be) an already fairly decent in-room response would be worth looking into. What sort of improvements could I expect to hear?

If you're sitting at +/- 4 dB, you many not see much benefit in EQing -- you're already sitting pretty with one very fortunate room, IMO.

-Robb

Anyone in the greater Houston area have their box and the included foam insert/standoffs for a 20-39PC+? If so, please PM me!

I'm curious,what do you guys set the LPF of LFE on your PB10–NSDs?I currently have it on 80hz on my ONK706.From reading the Audyssey faq it should be set at 120hz,is this correct?I thought by setting it to 80 all of the bass would goto the sub.Can someone clear this up.Thanks

I'm curious,what do you guys set the LPF of LFE on your PB10–NSDs?I currently have it on 80hz on my ONK706.From reading the Audyssey faq it should be set at 120hz,is this correct?I thought by setting it to 80 all of the bass would goto the sub.Can someone clear this up.Thanks

The "LPF of LFE" is not the same as the "crossover".
See the 706 or Audyssey threads for explanations.
Heck, might even try reading the manual ;).

The "LPF of LFE" is not the same as the "crossover".
See the 706 or Audyssey threads for explanations.
Heck, might even try reading the manual ;).

Ok smarty i did read the manual and i know LPF of LFE isnt a crossover,i never said it was.This IS the SVS owners thread so i thought i come here to see what others are doing with their SVS subs.No big deal

I thought by setting it to 80 all of the bass would goto the sub
Based on the above quote, it does not really seem that you realize what it is.
It has nothing to do with the other speakers. It is for LFE only. At no time will you ever get LFE in your other speakers. It is a subwoofer channel only.

The variable LPF is apparantly there so that the user can eliminate some of the higher frequency emissions going to the subwoofer. Maybe to keep from isolating the sound? Fact of the matter is that there's almost no LFE out there that is even above 80HZ anyway.
In my opinion, it's a useless feature that Onkyo thew in there just to get a "checkmark feature".

I currently use a PB10 ISD and a 20-39 PCI. I keep the LPF of LFE at 120HZ and would never consider anything else.

Hi King,

3.15A slo-blow is what you need. There should have been a spare included (drop us a line at techsupport@svsound.com if there wasn't), but you can bring the blown one into Radio Shack and they'll match it for you.

Hi Jack
A spare one was not included with my new sub and of course I didn't find out there wasn't until I needed one. (big let down)

I will go to R.S. to see if they have the same type as this one.
Its been two weeks without my SVS :(
went to 2 other stores with no luck
I almost freaked out when I thought I lost the little black fuse holder and fuse that Ive had laying around my house. Ive had it in a ziplock bag since I took it out , but still... an easy thing to lose track of if your not careful.

Would have been nice to have the resellers compatible fuse part #s for the fuse included in the manual or insert with the sub to make it easier for the owners

I currently use a PB10 ISD and a 20-39 PCI. I keep the LPF of LFE at 120HZ and would never consider anything else.

120Hz on my Onkyo 885/PC13 Ultra as well. As was stated in the 885P owners thread, "forever and always"!

Hey all,
I'm new to all of this, but your guidance has been extraordinary. I now face a small dilemma. I have an SVS PB12+ on the way and it turns out the the PB 10NSD I got a bit back is too much for the bedroom (aka WAF). Anyway, I don't really want to sell it, so I'm thinking of putting it to work in the living room with the new PB12+. Any thoughts or suggestions? I'm welcome to all comments. I did a quick search but may have just typed in the wrong information to get the answer if it's already out there.
By the way- the living room is a 12X23 wit 8' ceiling and it opens up to a reading room on one side and a dining room on the other. My listening is 50/50 music/movies.

Thanks again
-SanFranDad

Ok smarty i did read the manual and i know LPF of LFE isnt a crossover,i never said it was.This IS the SVS owners thread so i thought i come here to see what others are doing with their SVS subs.No big deal

set the LPF of LFE at 120hz. think about it like this, the LFE is not the bass from the 5 channels, its the .1 in the "5.1". If you set it at 80hz then youre basically throwing away everything in the .1 above 80hz, it doesnt get redirected to the 5 speakers it just gets thrown away.

And yeah people on AVS love to claim you havent read the manual even though the onkyo manuals do not explain what the LPF of LFE is at all. its aggravating..

sanfrandad,

Initially I'd say don't mix subs but the definitive authority on these subs would be SVS themselves. I'd give them a call and see what they say.

look what the mail brought today
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y291/paranormalg35/DSC_0478.jpg

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y291/paranormalg35/DSC_0475.jpg



thank you SVS. great company
:)

Nice! Another picture after install please.

and the glassed sub box under the table:D

and the glassed sub box under the table:D

I noticed that also. That's a sweet design. I'm waiting on my 2nd PB-12 NSD to arrive also. Should be shipping on Monday to FL.:D

are they the PB12 plus? color?Also.. good to see they are ROHS compliant:confused::D

Has anyone heard anymore about the Ultra 16? I can't wait to see this one.....

Has anyone heard anymore about the Ultra 16? I can't wait to see this one.....

So far this is it. Hasn't been updated in a while...
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1107585

I'd love to see a bigger SVS sub then the Ultra 13, but a bigger sealed 16 with more watts will still perfom like the ported PB Ultra 13 or a little less I think. Truth is, they don't need a biger ported sub then the 13, all people have to do is get 2x of them.

So far this is it. Hasn't been updated in a while...
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1107585

I'd love to see a bigger SVS sub then the Ultra 13, but a bigger sealed 16 with more watts will still perfom like the ported PB Ultra 13 or a little less I think. Truth is, they don't need a biger ported sub then the 13, all people have to do is get 2x of them.

Although more output is always nice, I don't really want/need more than the ultra. I'm running mine sealed in a 2 channel system right now. Would love to have 2 of the new sealed 16's, though. I'm betting that the 16 will have all the qualities I like in the sealed alignment, but perhaps a little more "snap"

Then I'd move the PB13 into the theater....(my priorities are on my 2 channel system)

Why don't they offer the plus models in std. black anymore? I'd like to maybe see a pb12-plus w/ stock black for less $$.

look what the mail brought today



thank you SVS. great company
:)

Nice g35 :D

set the LPF of LFE at 120hz. think about it like this, the LFE is not the bass from the 5 channels, its the .1 in the "5.1". If you set it at 80hz then youre basically throwing away everything in the .1 above 80hz, it doesnt get redirected to the 5 speakers it just gets thrown away.

And yeah people on AVS love to claim you havent read the manual even though the onkyo manuals do not explain what the LPF of LFE is at all. its aggravating..

Ok thanks.I changed it to 120hz a few days ago and i really notice a difference in my setup.Its not updated in my link but i also moved my fronts Further apart from my tv and this also helped with getting better surround so im happy.Sorry pic is updated

Congrats! Please post your follow up comparison and review. I have a 3750R and am debating if I should step into a 12" SVS sub.
Got mine for a bout a week. After doing 'subwoofer crawl' and a lenghty calibration, I have one word to describe it - 'Mindblowing'.

It brought a whole new experience to me. The low deep bass is felt. The bass articulation and pace are simply marvellous. I sold off my Velodyne 2 days later since it just couldn't keep up with it (Ouch). My friends came over and they loved it. Shouldn't have invited them. Now, they are planning to come over again with their fav movies.

Got mine for a bout a week. After doing 'subwoofer crawl' and a lenghty calibration, I have one word to describe it - 'Mindblowing'.

It brought a whole new experience to me. The low deep bass is felt. The bass articulation and pace are simply marvellous. I sold off my Velodyne 2 days later since it just couldn't keep up with it (Ouch). My friends came over and they loved it. Shouldn't have invited them. Now, they are planning to come over again with their fav movies.

AWESOME! I can now cancel my subscription to this thread now that I have heard your feedback:D

any body have tested a Def Tech Trinity compared to a PC13-Ultra sub? how is it compared to the PC13-Ultra? dang price tag on the trinity is killing me the PC13 Ultra is more reachable. thanks

any body have tested a Def Tech Trinity compared to a PC13-Ultra sub? how is it compared to the PC13-Ultra? dang price tag on the trinity is killing me the PC13 Ultra is more reachable. thanks

The only person that did a comparison is Craig.

SVS PB13-Ultra ($1499 ID): 109 points (57-52) (movies-music)
Def Tech Trinity ($3000 BM): 102 points (54-48)

The only person that did a comparison is Craig.

SVS PB13-Ultra ($1499 ID): 109 points (57-52) (movies-music)
Def Tech Trinity ($3000 BM): 102 points (54-48)

awesome!!! thanks Chengbin is there a thread about this so I could check more details about it?

awesome!!! thanks Chengbin is there a thread about this so I could check more details about it?

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=768150

Post 8.

I recently purchased a PB-10 NSD sub and have not been able to get it to work.

I am using the sub with the following setup:

Samsung 61a750
Energy c300 FL/FR
Energy c50 C
Energy C100 SL/SR
Pioneer Elite DV-48AV dvd player
Harmon Kardon 254 AVR

To start, I followed the trouble-shooting list previously by svs (I believe by Ed Mullen?). My dvd player doesn't have a "bitstream" option per se. Rather, the manual indicated that Dobly Digital, DTS, and MPEG operate in bitstream. Setting it these settings, my AVR recognizes a full 5.1 system on the graphical interface.

However, when using the automatic speaker setup on the AVR (EzSet), when it goes through my speakers no sound comes from the sub (not sure it should though). In addition, while the center, surrounds and fronts play during a movie, the sub doesn't.

I have the sub set at 1/3 gain, 0 phase, with the switch set to "on" rather than "auto." I also have the LFE Trim option on my AVR set to maximum. The green light on the back of the sub is lit. When the sub is on and I turn the AVR off, it seems the sub makes a noise. I have an HDMI connection between my dvd player and AVR as well as my AVR and tv. I have the sub connected using a standard RCA cable purchased from Monoprice. It is connected to the AVR's designated sub input.

I bought the sub as "b" stock, so I would think the issue is with my setting (since it is my understanding the "b" stocks are tested before selling again).

Thanks for any help you can provide! This is frustrating as heck.

May take a lot of typing, but the most help could be offered if you listed each and every thing that you have tried to make it work. Then we could give you some pointers on what else to try.

I recently purchased a PB-10 NSD sub and have not been able to get it to work.

I am using the sub with the following setup:

Samsung 61a750
Energy c300 FL/FR
Energy c50 C
Energy C100 SL/SR
Pioneer Elite DV-48AV dvd player
Harmon Kardon 254 AVR

To start, I followed the trouble-shooting list previously by svs (I believe by Ed Mullen?). My dvd player doesn't have a "bitstream" option per se. Rather, the manual indicated that Dobly Digital, DTS, and MPEG operate in bitstream. Setting it these settings, my AVR recognizes a full 5.1 system on the graphical interface.

However, when using the automatic speaker setup on the AVR (EzSet), when it goes through my speakers no sound comes from the sub (not sure it should though). In addition, while the center, surrounds and fronts play during a movie, the sub doesn't.

I have the sub set at 1/3 gain, 0 phase, with the switch set to "on" rather than "auto." I also have the LFE Trim option on my AVR set to maximum. The green light on the back of the sub is lit. When the sub is on and I turn the AVR off, it seems the sub makes a noise. I have an HDMI connection between my dvd player and AVR as well as my AVR and tv. I have the sub connected using a standard RCA cable purchased from Monoprice. It is connected to the AVR's designated sub input.

I bought the sub as "b" stock, so I would think the issue is with my setting (since it is my understanding the "b" stocks are tested before selling again).

Thanks for any help you can provide! This is frustrating as heck.

Hello!

Try connecting a CD/DVD player directly to the sub with a known good RCA cable and see if you get some sound. This will eliminate any AVR-related issues.
If that doesn't do the trick, drop us a line at techsupport@svsound.com and we'll troubleshoot further.

Also, EZSet does not set the level for the sub. That has to be done manually.

Hello all,

I am a newbie..so if I my question seems inane...please excuse me...I am thinking of buying this sub to pair up with this system for my HT (HT room size: 19x15 - room will be used for 60% movies - 40% sports and TV...using a JVC RS10 projector)

System:
Def Tech 7004 - 2
Def Tech CLR 2500 -1
Def Tech BP 2X - 4
Denon 3808 CI

Any thoughts suggestions? I did not wanna spend too much on the sub as the 7004's and 2500 has subs built in...but got some suggestions that I should get a sub...

Any help is greatly appreciated..

Thanks!

Hello all,

I am a newbie..so if I my question seems inane...please excuse me...I am thinking of buying this sub to pair up with this system for my HT (HT room size: 19x15 - room will be used for 60% movies - 40% sports and TV...using a JVC RS10 projector)

System:
Def Tech 7004 - 2
Def Tech CLR 2500 -1
Def Tech BP 2X - 4
Denon 3808 CI

Any thoughts suggestions? I did not wanna spend too much on the sub as the 7004's and 2500 has subs built in...but got some suggestions that I should get a sub...

Any help is greatly appreciated..

Thanks!

I have a room 13x28 and have a SVS PB12 + and it does everything I need and more.

Hello all,

I am a newbie..so if I my question seems inane...please excuse me...I am thinking of buying this sub to pair up with this system for my HT (HT room size: 19x15 - room will be used for 60% movies - 40% sports and TV...using a JVC RS10 projector)

System:
Def Tech 7004 - 2
Def Tech CLR 2500 -1
Def Tech BP 2X - 4
Denon 3808 CI

Any thoughts suggestions? I did not wanna spend too much on the sub as the 7004's and 2500 has subs built in...but got some suggestions that I should get a sub...

Any help is greatly appreciated..

Thanks!

how tall are your ceilings, and what kind of budget are you on? agree with mothergoose with the PB12+

Thanks for the replies...My ceilings are 10-11'...budget I would like to stay preferably under $500 (cheaper the better as I have spent my budget on the speakers - please don't give me any heat on the "cheaper" part..I know you get what you pay for)...was considering the PA 120 but a couple of the members there suggested that my built in subs would do as good a job as the PA 120 so they suggested me to go for a better sub..I am a complete noob...never owned a system...so if I come across asking saying anything wrong - please excuse my ignorance..

I'm quite happy with my PC12-NSD, in a bigger room than yours, so don't feel you have to step up to the Plus if it's beyond your means. Even that will take you a shade over $600 shipped though. Not really sure how the PB-10 would handle that room...I imagine it would at least be adequate if you don't listen at very loud levels.

This is becoming my standard non-advice advice, but really, email SVS customer service and ask for their input. I cannot stress enough how helpful their customer service team was in helping me make my sub purchase.

Thank you all for your advice..

is the PB10-NSD good for music as it is for movies? also would it be overkill being paired with audioengine a5's?

Hello!

Try connecting a CD/DVD player directly to the sub with a known good RCA cable and see if you get some sound. This will eliminate any AVR-related issues.
If that doesn't do the trick, drop us a line at techsupport@svsound.com and we'll troubleshoot further.

It appears that I figured out the issue. My AVR has dedicated subwoofer inputs. One is labeled "6/8 channel" and the other "preout." I had the sub connected to the "6/8 channel" and it didn't work. When I tried the "preout" input, the sub started cranking.

Watched a little Iron Man. WoW. This sub hits hard and gets low. In my small space (13x14), you can actually feel the bass hitting your body in certain scenes. I'm very pleased so far. On a side note, is it recommended to leave the sub on the auto/on position or to turn it off when not in use (I've heard most wear occurs at the startup?)? Thanks again!

It appears that I figured out the issue. My AVR has dedicated subwoofer inputs. One is labeled "6/8 channel" and the other "preout." I had the sub connected to the "6/8 channel" and it didn't work. When I tried the "preout" input, the sub started cranking.

Watched a little Iron Man. WoW. This sub hits hard and gets low. In my small space (13x14), you can actually feel the bass hitting your body in certain scenes. I'm very pleased so far. On a side note, is it recommended to leave the sub on the auto/on position or to turn it off when not in use (I've heard most wear occurs at the startup?)? Thanks again!

Just an FYI for your future reference... The 6/8 connectors are most likely INPUTS. These would be used to connect multichannel analog devices.

It seems that the NEW PB-10 can come close to the PB-12 in frequency response. Of course with the larger enclosure, the PB-12 will have higher SPLs.

Am i right in thinking that the newer PB-10 has really shortned the gap in performance with the PB-12??

It appears that I figured out the issue. My AVR has dedicated subwoofer inputs. One is labeled "6/8 channel" and the other "preout." I had the sub connected to the "6/8 channel" and it didn't work. When I tried the "preout" input, the sub started cranking.

Watched a little Iron Man. WoW. This sub hits hard and gets low. In my small space (13x14), you can actually feel the bass hitting your body in certain scenes. I'm very pleased so far. On a side note, is it recommended to leave the sub on the auto/on position or to turn it off when not in use (I've heard most wear occurs at the startup?)? Thanks again!

Glad you figured it out and are enjoying it. :)

There's not an appreciable difference in wear between on/auto and turning it off. We tend to leave 'em on for convenience. :)

It seems that the NEW PB-10 can come close to the PB-12 in frequency response. Of course with the larger enclosure, the PB-12 will have higher SPLs.

Am i right in thinking that the newer PB-10 has really shortned the gap in performance with the PB-12??

The PB12-NSD is still about 50% more powerful than the PB10-NSD. It was actually more than 50% better near tuning, due to the difference in port area , but that gap has lessened a bit with the new 3.5” port. They've always been pretty similar in depth.

The PB12-NSD is still about 50% more powerful than the PB10-NSD. It was actually more than 50% better near tuning, due to the difference in port area , but that gap has lessened a bit with the new 3.5” port. They've always been pretty similar in depth.

NEW 3.5" port??? Are you talking about the PB-10? I thought the only difference between the ISD and NSD versions was a slight difference in the woofer, not even making any real world difference between the two.
If the PB-10 NSD is now "improved", how can I upgrade my ISD version to perform better?
Also, is there any way to make my 20-39 PCi perform better? Will replacing the old woofer with a better SVS woofer improve performance?

NEW 3.5" port??? Are you talking about the PB-10? I thought the only difference between the ISD and NSD versions was a slight difference in the woofer, not even making any real world difference between the two.
If the PB-10 NSD is now "improved", how can I upgrade my ISD version to perform better? This was not an ISD-NSD improvement. The PB10-NSD (http://svsound.com/products-sub-box-10nsd.cfm) was recently re-vamped with a full-featured amp, aluminum cone with etched logo, and new 3.5" port (from the Ultra, in fact). These changes are incompatible with the ISD version, and the new port won't fit any older models at all.

Also, is there any way to make my 20-39 PCi perform better? Will replacing the old woofer with a better SVS woofer improve performance? Depends a lot on how old the existing woofer is. The newest NSD is cleaner and better-behaved at high levels, but it's not a night/day difference.

The PB12-NSD is still about 50% more powerful than the PB10-NSD. [/SIZE][/COLOR][/FONT]

How much output is 50% more powerful? 1.5dB?... 5dB?...

Cheers, Joe

This was not an ISD-NSD improvement. The PB10-NSD (http://svsound.com/products-sub-box-10nsd.cfm) was recently re-vamped with a full-featured amp, aluminum cone with etched logo, and new 3.5" port (from the Ultra, in fact). These changes are incompatible with the ISD version, and the new port won't fit any older models at all.

Depends a lot on how old the existing woofer is. The newest NSD is cleaner and better-behaved at high levels, but it's not a night/day difference.

Thanks for the info Jack.

So can anything be done to upgrade to PB-10 ISD? I have heard port chuffing on it several times. What about puting something in it like Acoustuff to help with that?

So upgrading the woofer in the 20-39 PCi would be advisable? What about other woofer that I see for sale once in a while... like I think the 12.2 or something like that, where someone pulled it out of their SVS sub to upgrade to a better woofer. Would it be advisable to put one of those in the 20-39?

The PB12-NSD is still about 50% more powerful than the PB10-NSD. It was actually more than 50% better near tuning, due to the difference in port area , but that gap has lessened a bit with the new 3.5” port. They've always been pretty similar in depth.

Thanks for the info...i had no idea the performance difference between the 2 is so drastic...especially from reading the SPECIFICATIONS on the 2 subs.

I can potentially stretch and get 2 PB-10s, but that would really be pushing my budget. The other option is 1 PB-12. I feel that the downfall with 2 subs is that it is difficult to have it properly tuned for the room.

Your yellow writing is like reading secret messages as a kid...written by majic invisible markers....needing another special marker to reveal the spy message.

To read the special incripted writing, you must scroll down to the very bottom of this page and activate the dropdown menu of the background decoder. Select AVSForum.com Black and then voila... message decoded. :cool:

To read the special incripted writing, you must scroll down to the very bottom of this page and activate the dropdown menu of the background decoder. Select AVSForum.com Black and then voila... message decoded. :cool:



Yeah! that makes everything so much more easier to read. :)

Deepstang-
I'm not trying to push but I have a gently used isd sub boxed up because I was not using it much for my bedroom setup. The only thing that doesn't look new on this is the grill. My f'in cat got ahold of it. I can't list on subs sections cause I don't have enough posts I guess and don't like auctioning it on ebay. I am asking $300 for it plus shipping but would be willing to wiggle a little. Original box and manual. Just a thought

Hello all, well I've ordered my PB13 ultra from SonicBoom in mid April, and I still haven't received anything. I've been patiently waiting. I've contacted them and apparently there was a delay due to a shortage of drivers. It's now been over 2 months and I have to say I'm pretty disappointed. Not once was anything communicated to me about the delay. I called them again and they've given me a discount on the AS-EQ1. Not much but it kept me at bay. Now that was two weeks ago.

I'm hoping it's worth the wait, but at this point I have to say the service has not been great.

Am I crazy to think that? Or should I just wait longer?

Has anyone combined a PB 12 dual/+ 2 sub with the newer Ultra PB13? Should I just get the new PB 12+ to match?

Erik said that I would not hear the advantages of the Ultra PB 13 because the PB 12 Dual + would drown it out. Just wanted your thoughts....

Hey all, I got a PB12-NSD and hooked everything up (Marantz SR6003) per the manual I'm using the SW pre-out on the receiver. I've got the speakers and center set to small (paradigm 20 and 590) and subwoofer "yes"/on. I've also got the crossover on the amp set to 80Hz. I also have the audio preference set to "Main + Sub" on the receiver.

I've tried a couple of different discs. Music, movies, TV. Everything sounds super muddy/muted. With the gain at half way I can barely hear the sub at all. I'm planning on contacting them tomorrow but I can't imagine this is what the sub is supposed to sound like.
Am I missing something that someone would recommend taking a look at tonight?
thx

Hey all, I got a PB12-NSD and hooked everything up (Marantz SR6003) per the manual I'm using the SW pre-out on the receiver. I've got the speakers and center set to small (paradigm 20 and 590) and subwoofer "yes"/on. I've also got the crossover on the amp set to 80Hz. I also have the audio preference set to "Main + Sub" on the receiver.

I've tried a couple of different discs. Music, movies, TV. Everything sounds super muddy/muted. With the gain at half way I can barely hear the sub at all. I'm planning on contacting them tomorrow but I can't imagine this is what the sub is supposed to sound like.
Am I missing something that someone would recommend taking a look at tonight?
thxFirst, set the main+sub to sub only to take the bass out of the mains. Then run through the auto cal. What ever it's called on the Marantz. Then level match. This is a start.