This thread is for first impressions from those having received the HC5000 into their HT.

THIS IS NOT A COMPARISON THREAD OTHER THAN IN THE CONTEXT OF WHAT YOU HAD BEFORE THE HC5000!!!


Well, I got a nice surprise yesterday afternoon when the HC5000 showed up at my door via UPS. Needless to say the wife didn't see me for the rest of the evening because it was straight to the bat-cave for me & my new toy.

First off I am NOT a "videophile" and my observations are purely from my own experiences with the PJ's I've seen and what my personal needs are.

With that said here's some preliminary and un-calibrated observations;

This is a very nice looking unit and smaller than my Epson Cinema 500 in width and length but it is deeper.
The unit was super easy to set up I have it ceiling mounted at 12' from my 100" Firehawk. I've never had mechanical lense shift before and it works like a charm on this unit. I has two speeds one that has slow, fine, incremental adjustments and another that moves quickly. With the excellent grid pattern, (which has finer lines than the Epson) it only took a few minutes to set the size and focus. I ran one HDMI from the switcher in a Denon 4306 I have in my HT on try-out.

The default blue screen looked to be one even color - no areas looked brighter or darker. I could not see any pixels from my normal viewing position.
In fact the pixels are so small that I had get about two feet away and I had to put on my reading glasses to "properly" see the pixels in the "focus" display when I focused it.

Going by what I've read on some of the reviews I set the unit on Auto Iris 2, low lamp mode and fired up my HD-A1. I chose the HD-DVD of U-571 as my first test, because I also have an SD-DVD for comparison and there's some good dark scenes with bright lights entering from time to time to get a feel for the iris, shadow detail and CR. The opening FBI warning and Studio logo clips just about knocked me off my chair - incredibly sharp and almost 3D!!
I went straight to the "depth charge" scene which opens with the battleship dropping charges into the ocean in bright daylight. What I saw was simply stunning, very true looking colors, incredible sharpness compared to what I was used to, and detail - and I mean DETAIL. I could see the dried paint drips on the hull of the battleship!! Then the scene switches to the inside of the sub and again I get blown away, I've never seen dark scenes appear so three dimensional compared to my 500 the shadow detail is unbelievable, and the black level is much better. I did not notice the DI working at that point and I get into that a bit later.

Next up some Satellite HD from my BEV HD-PVR, right to the HD channels obviously. The first program I watched was figure skating, which I found very interesting from a picture evaluation point of view. I've spent a lot of time in ice rinks and go to a lot of NHL games here locally so I'm used to seeing the ice surface lit up with TV lights.
With the 500 when watching HD hockey, from the same arena the figure skating was in, and most likely using the same equipment knowing the CBC, the ice surface never looked "right" taking on sort of a pearlesent sheen . With the Mits, it looked as close to what I've seen with the naked eye as, well, seeing it with the naked eye!! I know the "through the glass" analogy has been used a fair bit - but it was that and then some.

I went to some of the SD channels and sadly there's not a huge improvement there - the image was so dependant on the quality of the stations' feed; some were excellent and some were very poor. I would say the was a slight improvement over the 500. I was worried this might be an indicator of the processors' abilities - but put that to be on the next test material.

I configured my Pioneer 59Ava to output 480i via HDMI to the Mits and slapped in my SD-DVD U-571 for a test drive. The HQV did not disappoint, the picture was outstanding - not quite as good as the HD-DVD but much closer than what I had seen with the 500 and the 59 up-converting. I ran the same scenes and the difference in resolution was obvious in some and less so in others, the blacks did not seem as black and the shadow detail wasn't as good. But based on what the Mits is capable of I'm sure that it's probably just a matter of calibrating the output of the 59 or input levels of the Mits. (I didn't try to change the IRE of the 59 it could be as simple as that) But the bottom line is I'm confident I won't have any problem watching my SD-DVD collection with the Mits.

I did really notice the DI when changing menus in OSD on my Denon or with the 59 but in all honesty I didn't notice it when I was watching material but there were so many things that impressed me that I probably overlooked it. I'm going to revisit that because I know that's important to some. I can say this though - it is silent in it's operation.

In short the unit delivers everything I hoped it would, and frankly exceeded my expectations. I wanted less screen door - got it - there's none. I wanted a quiet projector - got it - it's super quiet. I wanted better backs - got it - I'd guess 20% better than the 500. I wanted better shadow detail - got it - I didn't know what I was missing here, U-571 was very telling. I wanted good processing so I didn't have to use an outboard processing and so that my SD-DVD collection wouldn't be disappointing - got it. I wanted to spend less than $5k CDN - got it - considerably less actually.

Overall this a projector that will stop me from upgrading for a long, long time. It is a significant improvement over my 500 and I am very happy with my purchase. :)

Congrats, with you new pj. It sounds good. Keep your impression comming. We want to hear them.

Thanks for the review mrgagne. When you get some more time with the Mits can you give us some of your impressions regarding brightness after calibration, as well as you opinion on color uniformity and how well the panel convergence is.

This thread is for first impressions from those having received the HC5000 into their HT.

THIS IS NOT A COMPARISON THREAD OTHER THAN IN THE CONTEXT OF WHAT YOU HAD BEFORE THE HC5000!!!


Well, I got a nice surprise yesterday afternoon when the HC5000 showed up at my door via UPS. Needless to say the wife didn't see me for the rest of the evening because it was straight to the bat-cave for me & my new toy.

First off I am NOT a "videophile" and my observations are purely from my own experiences with the PJ's I've seen and what my personal needs are.

With that said here's some preliminary and un-calibrated observations;

This is a very nice looking unit and smaller than my Epson Cinema 500 in width and length but it is deeper.
The unit was super easy to set up I have it ceiling mounted at 12' from my 100" Firehawk. I've never had mechanical lense shift before and it works like a charm on this unit. I has two speeds one that has slow, fine, incremental adjustments and another that moves quickly. With the excellent grid pattern, (which has finer lines than the Epson) it only took a few minutes to set the size and focus. I ran one HDMI from the switcher in a Denon 4306 I have in my HT on try-out.

The default blue screen looked to be one even color - no areas looked brighter or darker. I could not see any pixels from my normal viewing position.
In fact the pixels are so small that I had get about two feet away and I had to put on my reading glasses to "properly" see the pixels in the "focus" display when I focused it.

Going by what I've read on some of the reviews I set the unit on Auto Iris 2, low lamp mode and fired up my HD-A1. I chose the HD-DVD of U-571 as my first test, because I also have an SD-DVD for comparison and there's some good dark scenes with bright lights entering from time to time to get a feel for the iris, shadow detail and CR. The opening FBI warning and Studio logo clips just about knocked me off my chair - incredibly sharp and almost 3D!!
I went straight to the "depth charge" scene which opens with the battleship dropping charges into the ocean in bright daylight. What I saw was simply stunning, very true looking colors, incredible sharpness compared to what I was used to, and detail - and I mean DETAIL. I could see the dried paint drips on the hull of the battleship!! Then the scene switches to the inside of the sub and again I get blown away, I've never seen dark scenes appear so three dimensional compared to my 500 the shadow detail is unbelievable, and the black level is much better. I did not notice the DI working at that point and I get into that a bit later.

Next up some Satellite HD from my BEV HD-PVR, right to the HD channels obviously. The first program I watched was figure skating, which I found very interesting from a picture evaluation point of view. I've spent a lot of time in ice rinks and go to a lot of NHL games here locally so I'm used to seeing the ice surface lit up with TV lights.
With the 500 when watching HD hockey, from the same arena the figure skating was in, and most likely using the same equipment knowing the CBC, the ice surface never looked "right" taking on sort of a pearlesent sheen . With the Mits, it looked as close to what I've seen with the naked eye as, well, seeing it with the naked eye!! I know the "through the glass" analogy has been used a fair bit - but it was that and then some.

I went to some of the SD channels and sadly there's not a huge improvement there - the image was so dependant on the quality of the stations' feed; some were excellent and some were very poor. I would say the was a slight improvement over the 500. I was worried this might be an indicator of the processors' abilities - but put that to be on the next test material.

I configured my Pioneer 59Ava to output 480i via HDMI to the Mits and slapped in my SD-DVD U-571 for a test drive. The HQV did not disappoint, the picture was outstanding - not quite as good as the HD-DVD but much closer than what I had seen with the 500 and the 59 up-converting. I ran the same scenes and the difference in resolution was obvious in some and less so in others, the blacks did not seem as black and the shadow detail wasn't as good. But based on what the Mits is capable of I'm sure that it's probably just a matter of calibrating the output of the 59 or input levels of the Mits. (I didn't try to change the IRE of the 59 it could be as simple as that) But the bottom line is I'm confident I won't have any problem watching my SD-DVD collection with the Mits.

I did really notice the DI when changing menus in OSD on my Denon or with the 59 but in all honesty I didn't notice it when I was watching material but there were so many things that impressed me that I probably overlooked it. I'm going to revisit that because I know that's important to some. I can say this though - it is silent in it's operation.

In short the unit delivers everything I hoped it would, and frankly exceeded my expectations. I wanted less screen door - got it - there's none. I wanted a quiet projector - got it - it's super quiet. I wanted better backs - got it - I'd guess 20% better than the 500. I wanted better shadow detail - got it - I didn't know what I was missing here, U-571 was very telling. I wanted good processing so I didn't have to use an outboard processing and so that my SD-DVD collection wouldn't be disappointing - got it. I wanted to spend less than $5k CDN - got it - considerably less actually.

Overall this a projector that will stop me from upgrading for a long, long time. It is a significant improvement over my 500 and I am very happy with my purchase. :)

Thanks for the review.Looks to be a nice FP.How is the brightness.BUDDA :)

Well, I got a nice surprise yesterday afternoon when the HC5000 showed up at my door via UPS. Needless to say the wife didn't see me for the rest of the evening because it was straight to the bat-cave for me & my new toy.

---

This is a very nice looking unit and smaller than my Epson Cinema 500 in width and length but it is deeper.
The unit was super easy to set up I have it ceiling mounted at 12' from my 100" Firehawk. I've never had mechanical lense shift before and it works like a charm on this unit. I has two speeds one that has slow, fine, incremental adjustments and another that moves quickly. With the excellent grid pattern, (which has finer lines than the Epson) it only took a few minutes to set the size and focus. I ran one HDMI from the switcher in a Denon 4306 I have in my HT on try-out.

Overall this a projector that will stop me from upgrading for a long, long time. It is a significant improvement over my 500 and I am very happy with my purchase. :)

Congratulations with your new HC 5000. I'm still waiting for my unit that I ordered some weeks ago - and your report makes the waiting even harder :-) But I guess it'll be worth it...

Can you use the same ceiling mount that you used with your Epson 500, or have you bought a new one? What kind of ceiling mount are you using? (I'm wondering if I can use my old one that I used with my Epson TW100).

Thanks again, a user report like this is very nice to read for a "newbie" like me.

Your welcome guys.

I'll look at answering some of your questions as best as a lay-man can over the next little while.

Congratulations with your new HC 5000. I'm still waiting for my unit that I ordered some weeks ago - and your report makes the waiting even harder :-) But I guess it'll be worth it...

Can you use the same ceiling mount that you used with your Epson 500, or have you bought a new one? What kind of ceiling mount are you using? (I'm wondering if I can use my old one that I used with my Epson TW100).

Thanks again, a user report like this is very nice to read for a "newbie" like me.

I bought a universal mount a long time ago and I hated it - I basically used some of the parts and fabricated my own concoction. I just quickly modified it last night. I will do a better job down the road.

It uses the same M4 screws but has an unusual (to me anyways) three-point pattern whereas the Epson had four. I don't think that would be a problem with a universal mount.

Congrads on your new projector! Sounds like a nice solid unit. Curious to hear more impressions as you spend time with it. Thanks for the report :)

I bought a universal mount a long time ago and I hated it - I basically used some of the parts and fabricated my own concoction. I just quickly modified it last night. I will do a better job down the road.

It uses the same M4 screws but has an unusual (to me anyways) three-point pattern whereas the Epson had four. I don't think that would be a problem with a universal mount.

Thanks a lot! Hopefully I can just adjust the arms of my ceiling mount . That would be nice.

Ok, have a nice weekend and enjoy your new projector!

Thanks for the mini-review. I'm looking at upgrading to the mits from a PLV-Z4. My 20 something HD-DVDs are just begging for a proper 1080p display! :D

Thansk for the info! Well we know they are starting to ship! :)

Good write-up. Thanks.

I wanted good processing so I didn't have to use an outboard processing and so that my SD-DVD collection wouldn't be disappointing - got it. I wanted to spend less than $5k CDN - got it - considerably less actually.





Hi. I too come from Canada. I really appreciated reading your report on the HC5000. As many others, I am waiting for VW50 - HC5000 comparisons before making my decision. However I am having a hard time finding a source for the HC5000 in Canada right Now. Could you please tell me where you got it from, and possibly PM me about the deal you got on it ??? ;)

Can you tell us how loud the HC5000 is in the high lamp mode?

Well, I got a nice surprise yesterday afternoon when the HC5000 showed up at my door via UPS. Needless to say the wife didn't see me for the rest of the evening because it was straight to the bat-cave for me & my new toy.




Just out of curiosity, with Perl available for roughly same price, why did you decide to go for the LCD Mitsu? By all accounts, Perl is brighter, and the SXRD panels have ~ 3x native contrast advantage

Great first impressions! About the only thing holding me back on the HC5000 is the dynamic iris and its depth of image. Could you comment in a little more detail on how noticable the change in black level is when you're watching a movie? In particular, could you watch a 2.35:1 aspect movie and perhaps pay special attention to the black bars on the top and bottom? I find this to be the most obvious and distracting thing about dynamic irises: seeing the black level rise and fall as the black bars change along with the dynamic iris.

Any comments on this are very much appreciated :D

Jon

I find this to be the most obvious and distracting thing about dynamic irises: seeing the black level rise and fall as the black bars change along with the dynamic iris.Variable masking is an easy way to get rid of the black/grey bars. A little hard to implement with pulldown screens, but who uses those anyway. ;)

Thanks for the impressions. Does the unit exhibit any vertical banding or FPN? I would love to hear comparisons from users who have had the Pearl, Ruby, or DLP projectors.

Hi. I too come from Canada. I really appreciated reading your report on the HC5000. As many others, I am waiting for VW50 - HC5000 comparisons before making my decision. However I am having a hard time finding a source for the HC5000 in Canada right Now. Could you please tell me where you got it from, and possibly PM me about the deal you got on it ??? ;)

PM sent.

Just out of curiosity, with Perl available for roughly same price, why did you decide to go for the LCD Mitsu? By all accounts, Perl is brighter, and the SXRD panels have ~ 3x native contrast advantage

You obviously didn't read my intial post where I clearly stated;

"THIS IS NOT A COMPARISON THREAD OTHER THAN IN THE CONTEXT OF WHAT YOU HAD BEFORE THE HC5000!!!"

You want to specutlate on the Pearl there's a couple of threads already doing that. ;)

I think people would like reviews comparing the projector to their previous projector. That always helps.

Great first impressions! About the only thing holding me back on the HC5000 is the dynamic iris and its depth of image. Could you comment in a little more detail on how noticable the change in black level is when you're watching a movie? In particular, could you watch a 2.35:1 aspect movie and perhaps pay special attention to the black bars on the top and bottom? I find this to be the most obvious and distracting thing about dynamic irises: seeing the black level rise and fall as the black bars change along with the dynamic iris.

Any comments on this are very much appreciated :D

Jon

I noticed the DI for the first time while watching material material last night. (It is very noticeable on menu changes)
I was watching a SD-Superbit 5th Element (480i via HDMI) and when the scene changed from normal to outerspace and back you could really notice the DI.
It did improve the black level but I think it did that at the expense of shadow detail. I didn't really pay attention to the black bars. I'll do that next time. Also I didn't expriment with the other modes of DI - there could be one better suited to the material.

Unfortunately I spent most of last night trying to figure out why my HD-A1 decided to put out a pink picture at 1080i. Problem still not solved!!! :mad:

I wouldn't put up with what I saw last night long term, it was distracting. That said, I was very happy with the black level and shadow detail before the DI engaged fully, still a big improvement over my 500. I'm curious as to why it wasnt as noticeable with the U-571 HD-DVD and hopefully I'll get the A1 back up and running to check that out. Could the DI be affected by the input source?

I'm not sure what you mean by depth of image in relation to the DI, but if you're talking about PQ re; 3D effect, that is without a doubt a huge strength of this PJ - the first thing I noticed in fact.

rnrgagne could you send me a PM too. I am also interested in getting the HC5000.

At this point I am just waiting to see whether Mits, Panasonic or Espon will handle 1080 input over VGA. Mits marketing material indicates its PC compatibility up to 1920x1080 (Real) Sync on Green.

Thanks for the impressions. Does the unit exhibit any vertical banding or FPN? I would love to hear comparisons from users who have had the Pearl, Ruby, or DLP projectors.

No vertical banding.

Not sure what FPN is.

If you're still using the Auto 2 mode for the DI, you could try the other settings, since the Auto 2 is the most aggressive mode.

If you're still using the Auto 2 mode for the DI, you could try the other settings, since the Auto 2 is the most aggressive mode.

Yes I will, I did say I've only tried the one mode. ;)

Yes I will, I did say I've only tried the one mode. ;)Duh, didn't notice that, sorry. Carry on.

Could the DI be affected by the input source?



Other than APL of the video, no, unless it makes sense to use a different algorithm for say TV vs. DVD. It doesn't to me.
I'm assuming that you mean the component itself when you say "source".

Thanks for the assessment. I do hope they work out the issues with the DI as that would be a deal killer for me.

Is the DI audible?

ted

The DI is unfortunate and I am curious if any other iris mode makes it unnoticable. Thanks for the honest feedback though, and not just giving us the good ;)

Other than APL of the video, no, unless it makes sense to use a different algorithm for say TV vs. DVD. It doesn't to me.
I'm assuming that you mean the component itself when you say "source".

Thanks for the assessment. I do hope they work out the issues with the DI as that would be a deal killer for me.

Is the DI audible?

ted

I cant hear it.

The DI is unfortunate and I am curious if any other iris mode makes it unnoticable. Thanks for the honest feedback though, and not just giving us the good ;)

I'll look into it for sure, I haven't even opened the manual, and like JaniH states, I am using the most aggressive DI setting. Don't take my comments as absolute yet because right now I'm dealing with out of the box untouched performance.

I'm still trying to figure out my HD-A1 problem. Also I discovered that the HDMI switching of the Denon I borrowed is introducing noise into the feed. I've got a Yamaha coming with HDMI 1.2a which should help that I hope.

As to the honest feedback, you're welcome. That's a pet peeve of mine on these forums; having to sift through opinions of people trying to validate their own purchases to get to useful info.

Unfortunately I spent most of last night trying to figure out why my HD-A1 decided to put out a pink picture at 1080i. Problem still not solved!!! :mad:


If you're output over component, check your component cables! If you're going over HDMI and the picture is kind of cyan and magenta, then your display device is *saying* that it is a YCbCr device, but processing the signal as if it was RGB. It might be possible to manually set your display device to change this behavior.

Other than APL of the video, no, unless it makes sense to use a different algorithm for say TV vs. DVD. It doesn't to me.
I'm assuming that you mean the component itself when you say "source".

ted

I'll test this some more when and if I get the HD-A1 running properly again. But I did not notice the DI at all when watching U-571 on HD-DVD, and I did notice it on SD-DVD 5th Element.

I would think that for a DI to be un-noticable it would have to adjust faster than your eyes do when going from dark to light. And I wonder if the ambient room lighting or lack thereof would have anything to do with seeing the DI in action?

I mean when you walk into a dark room out of the sunlight your eyes don't adjust all that fast. Certainly way slower than the speed I saw from the DI last night.

If you're output over component, check your component cables! If you're going over HDMI and the picture is kind of cyan and magenta, then your display device is *saying* that it is a YCbCr device, but processing the signal as if it was RGB. It might be possible to manually set your display device to change this behavior.

I'm using HDMI, and it worked fine to begin with and if I output 720p or any other resolution from the player it works fine it's just at 1080i that I have the problem.

I would think that for a DI to be un-noticable it would have to adjust faster than your eyes do when going from dark to light. And I wonder if the ambient room lighting or lack thereof would have anything to do with seeing the DI in action?


It should only have to switch at 1/60th a sec - field rate unless you are feeding 24p and it is capable of 72hz, basically refresh rate.

Mechanically it is doable unless there is something about their design - it is definitely a departure - but I can't imagine it being more difficult than the SONY. I'd put my money on the Control Algorithm.

ted

If you're output over component, check your component cables! If you're going over HDMI and the picture is kind of cyan and magenta, then your display device is *saying* that it is a YCbCr device, but processing the signal as if it was RGB. It might be possible to manually set your display device to change this behavior.

Bingo - you were right. Don't ask me how I did it, but I must have changed something that caused the PJ not to sync properly like you suggested. I reset the PJ and I'm back in business. My apologies to the Toshiba folks I've been swearing at under my breath!!!

I'm going to do some Sunday chores and get back to evaluating this PJ.

It should only have to switch at 1/60th a sec - field rate unless you are feeding 24p and it is capable of 72hz, basically refresh rate.

Mechanically it is doable unless there is something about their design - it is definitely a departure - but I can't imagine it being more difficult than the SONY. I'd put my money on the Control Algorithm.

ted

Now that I've got the sync issue figured out I've been watching T3 on HD-DVD and the factory default Auto Iris 1 and I haven't noticed it over the last 20 minutes or so.
Gotta get some stuff done this afternoon. I'll get back to it later.

You obviously didn't read my intial post where I clearly stated;

"THIS IS NOT A COMPARISON THREAD OTHER THAN IN THE CONTEXT OF WHAT YOU HAD BEFORE THE HC5000!!!"

You want to specutlate on the Pearl there's a couple of threads already doing that. ;)

I read your post just fine. I wasn't asking you to compare your PJ to anything, just wanted to understand the motivation that went into making your choice.

You need to improve your spelling skills, not to mention the manners.

I read your post just fine. I wasn't asking you to compare your PJ to anything, just wanted to understand the motivation that went into making your choice.

You need to improve your spelling skills, not to mention the manners.

Did you see the smiley-face in his reply? That would preclude being rude. ;)

Better processing? Quieter? On a 100" Firehawk the difference in brightness a non factor? Saving money? I can't speak for rnrgagne but these would be my reasons.

If you are going to argue the brightnesss difference a non factor on a 100" FH, one could also argue the processing difference is a non factor, and the noise level difference as well since they are all verry close. But we should stay on topic and honor the thread starters wishes.

Did you see the smiley-face in his reply? That would preclude being rude. ;)

No, it was a wink and he misconstrued his question. He was asking why he chose the Mits instead of a Pearl. It was not meant to be a comparison of the the two pjs.

If I remember correctly, the OP was the first person on the waiting list before there was hardly anything known about it beyond a spec sheet.

If you are going to argue the brightnesss difference a non factor on a 100" FH, one could also argue the processing difference is a non factor, and the noise level difference as well since they are all verry close. But we should stay on topic and honor the thread starters wishes.

I agree, and that would only leave the $ difference, which to some is significant enough. And yes, let's stay on topic, sorry I strayed :)

rnrgagne:
Just one basic question: Why you choose this Mits over other projectors, have you compared or considered Pearl and Ruby before you made your ultimate decision and hang that Mits on your ceiling?

THANKS

Just out of curiosity, with Perl available for roughly same price, why did you decide to go for the LCD Mitsu? By all accounts, Perl is brighter, and the SXRD panels have ~ 3x native contrast advantage


What's a PERL? :p

Actually, I wasn't intending to be the slightest bit rude. I'm just really tired of off-topic posts on these forums, and how often things get into pissing contests. And unfortunately I interpreted your post as saying "why didn't you pick the obviously better projector?" Maybe I'm just gun shy.

Ok, here we go;

First off I wanted a new projector. I was tired of the SDE and of the lack of shadow detail in dark scenes with my old one. It was bright enough and I could have lived with the resolution and black levels. I also wanted a 1080p unit soon to take advantage of my HD-DVD player. I happen to like the perceived sharpness of LCD over DLP and I did see rainbows in an older model high end DLP unit. In spite of that fear I had considered getting a DLP 720hp PJ, like the 8720 and outboard processor to take advantage of my SD-DVD collection. But I read about the upcoming Mits and frankly it hit all my buttons; 1080p, C2Fine, 19db, 5000hr bulb and so many other things, but the biggest factor was the REON HQV processing. Then there was the reported price, under $5k CDN. I figured it was the equivalent of a $3- $4K PJ with a $2K processor in one package. I had no reason to doubt that they would deliver what they promised so in fact I pre-ordered it before I even heard of the Pearl. The only competition I knew to be coming out at that time was the HD81 and there's no way I could have made that work in my HT.

So that is in a nutshell how I came upon my Mits. Not very scientific, and like I said in my first post I'm no videophile. I'm much more into the entertainment value of the media I watch and listen to.

Now back to our regularly scheduled programming;

The DI.
I am pleased to report that in the "Auto Iris 1" mode it is a non-issue, for me anyways. I went back and re-watched the scenes in the 480i 5th Element where I had previously found the DI to be distracting and I was almost unable to detect it this time, it never took away from the experience of the movie or seemed distracting in the slightest. I watched all of the HD-DVD of M.I. III tonight and never noticed it in action. The scene of the city where he's on the rooftop of a highrise at night was so real looking I could almost feel the night air.
And back to the 5th Element, the detail in the scene where Lelu is on the ledge was incredible. The Reon does a great job with 480i, even closer to HD-DVD than I had originally thought when watching it in "Auto Iris 2" mode.

I haven't put the Mits in high lamp mode as of yet, and I watched some stuff with all the lights on in my HT which would be the equivalent of a moderately well lit living room at night and it was plenty bright for anything I tried.

I'll try to find an ISF calibrator in the Vancouver area to come and tweak it, but I'm happy with what I've seen to this point.

Now back to our regularly scheduled programming;

The DI.
I am pleased to report that in the "Auto Iris 1" mode it is a non-issue, for me anyways. I went back and re-watched the scenes in the 480i 5th Element where I had previously found the DI to be distracting and I was almost unable to detect it this time, it never took away from the experience of the movie or seemed distracting in the slightest........

I haven't put the Mits in high lamp mode as of yet, and I watched some stuff with all the lights on in my HT which would be the equivalent of a moderately well lit living room at night and it was plenty bright for anything I tried............but I'm happy with what I've seen to this point.

This is great news (regarding the DI) the initial reports had me concerned. I am curious about one thing though and looking for your opinion. I am in the process of designing/building a basement HT with total light control and going for a 106-110" screen size and want to obviously watch movies, but also do a fair amount of "regular" TV watching, Football and the like with some ambient light on during that type of thing. For a movie I can turn it into a bat cave so that will not be a problem. Do you think from what you have experienced the screen size is too large? I'm not sure what type of screen (want to do DIY) but first off want to make sure that the Mits has the "horse power" to do an image that large.

Sorry for the long post, but very interested in your opinion.

Regards,

RTROSE

Thanks for the update mrgagne. Good to hear that the Iris is a non issue for you in the new setting. You say you were almost unable to detect it though which means you could still slightly see it working? I am just trying to get a feel for this since I am sensitive to seing these things.

Thanks for the update on the DI. This projector is very high on my short list for early next year. It is really sounding like a winner so far. I just wish it was still available at the lower prices that I saw earlier. Maybe it will be down again when I'm ready to make my purchase.

mrgagne,

Thank you very much for your comments. I am looking at upgrading my Cinema 500
soon and better shadow detail is probably at the top of my list. I am restricted
to LCD or LCOS as my wife cannot take DLP. I appreciate your comments comparing the
two pj's and the tone of the review since I also do not consider myself a videophile.

Have you watched any hockey on the Mits. While I enjoy most of the HD broadcasts
SD is almost unwatchable unless I shrink the picture down quite a bit. I would be curious
to see if the upgraded processing helps at all.

Looking forward to your further comments...

Any more word on US shipping time?

Got units arriving the 8th if all goes well. So they are starting to ship in the US, but slowly at first.

I'll add I don't have any spares. :)

This is great news (regarding the DI) the initial reports had me concerned. I am curious about one thing though and looking for your opinion. I am in the process of designing/building a basement HT with total light control and going for a 106-110" screen size and want to obviously watch movies, but also do a fair amount of "regular" TV watching, Football and the like with some ambient light on during that type of thing. For a movie I can turn it into a bat cave so that will not be a problem. Do you think from what you have experienced the screen size is too large? I'm not sure what type of screen (want to do DIY) but first off want to make sure that the Mits has the "horse power" to do an image that large.

Sorry for the long post, but very interested in your opinion.

Regards,

RTROSE

I don't think it would be an issue at all. I've got a hectic week this week so I don't know how much time I'll have, but what I can do is zoom it out to 110" and assess it that way for you, no later than the weekend.

Thanks for the update mrgagne. Good to hear that the Iris is a non issue for you in the new setting. You say you were almost unable to detect it though which means you could still slightly see it working? I am just trying to get a feel for this since I am sensitive to seing these things.

I can absolutely live with what I saw last night. I really couldn't tell when it was working for sure. But I didn't want to put out a blanket statement saying that simply because I don't know whether what I thought I saw could have been part of the original program material, so I erred on the side of caution. I know this a very important issue for some, including me, so I don't want to give out missinformation. What I will do when I have time is disable the DI and re-check the scenes that were really evident in Auto 2 and then recheck them in Auto1.

mrgagne,

Thank you very much for your comments. I am looking at upgrading my Cinema 500
soon and better shadow detail is probably at the top of my list. I am restricted
to LCD or LCOS as my wife cannot take DLP. I appreciate your comments comparing the
two pj's and the tone of the review since I also do not consider myself a videophile.

Have you watched any hockey on the Mits. While I enjoy most of the HD broadcasts
SD is almost unwatchable unless I shrink the picture down quite a bit. I would be curious
to see if the upgraded processing helps at all.

Looking forward to your further comments...

Ironically the only hockey I've watched so far was in HD - the Canuck Colorado game. Go figure, compared to the "center of the universe" AKA Toronto, ;) we lost souls get only one or two Canucks game in HD all year!!

You're right about SD hockey - it is brutal.

As it is, hockey in general seems to be really tough on processors - lots of straight lines and quick pans on a white surface; following the fastest game on the planet is a real test. I think it's a better test than the waving flag actually.
I saw a lot of jaggies with the Epson despite the DCDi, and at first the Mits exhibited a bit more jaggies than I had seen with the Epson, but I took the Denon out of the HDMI chain and they were virtually gone. Still the odd one on the glass panels, probably because the processor can't "see" those edges?
When I watched the figure skating there was none, and that was with the Denon in the loop. But slower pans tighter shots probably had a lot to do with that.

I'll give you an evaluation of how the processor handles SD hockey first chance I get. But I tend to think "garbage in garbage out" would apply.

"I am pleased to report that in the "Auto Iris 1" mode it is a non-issue"

Good to hear.

Did this come with a noticeable increase in black level and/or a lessening of the 3-D illusion effect?

Thanks

I don't think it would be an issue at all. I've got a hectic week this week so I don't know how much time I'll have, but what I can do is zoom it out to 110" and assess it that way for you, no later than the weekend.


That would be great! Thanks in advance for doing that! I know that I and all others here really appreciate your "first hand" experience with this projector.

Regards,

RTROSE

Ironically the only hockey I've watched so far was in HD - the Canuck Colorado game. Go figure, compared to the "center of the universe" AKA Toronto, ;) we lost souls get only one or two Canucks game in HD all year!!

You're right about SD hockey - it is brutal.

As it is, hockey in general seems to be really tough on processors - lots of straight lines and quick pans on a white surface; following the fastest game on the planet is a real test. I think it's a better test than the waving flag actually.
I saw a lot of jaggies with the Epson despite the DCDi, and at first the Mits exhibited a bit more jaggies than I had seen with the Epson, but I took the Denon out of the HDMI chain and they were virtually gone. Still the odd one on the glass panels, probably because the processor can't "see" those edges?
When I watched the figure skating there was none, and that was with the Denon in the loop. But slower pans tighter shots probably had a lot to do with that.

I'll give you an evaluation of how the processor handles SD hockey first chance I get. But I tend to think "garbage in garbage out" would apply.


Did you see the jaggies on the HD hockey game? I am a die hard Canucks fan and of course watch all the games I can't see at GM place. Not really fair only 9 of the Canucks games are in high def while all of Toronto's games are.

John

"I am pleased to report that in the "Auto Iris 1" mode it is a non-issue"

Good to hear.

Did this come with a noticeable increase in black level and/or a lessening of the 3-D illusion effect?

Thanks

Not that I could discern. The depth of the image is a very pleasant and an unexpected surprise.

Did you see the jaggies on the HD hockey game? I am a die hard Canucks fan and of course watch all the games I can't see at GM place. Not really fair only 9 of the Canucks games are in high def while all of Toronto'g games are.

John

Yep the center of the universe. :D
And good ol' CBC -your tax dollars at work...... :rolleyes:

Yes I did see jaggies with HD hockey, far less than the Epson and also a vey small amount with HD football but nothing at all with dvd's. It's possible that those artifacts could be comming from the HD-PVR's processing the signal from 720p to 1080i if the broadcast is in 720p? I wonder if a processor would assume those artifacts to be part of teh original signal and not correct them in that case?

Ironically the only hockey I've watched so far was in HD - the Canuck Colorado game. Go figure, compared to the "center of the universe" AKA Toronto, ;) we lost souls get only one or two Canucks game in HD all year!!

You're right about SD hockey - it is brutal.

As it is, hockey in general seems to be really tough on processors - lots of straight lines and quick pans on a white surface; following the fastest game on the planet is a real test. I think it's a better test than the waving flag actually.
I saw a lot of jaggies with the Epson despite the DCDi, and at first the Mits exhibited a bit more jaggies than I had seen with the Epson, but I took the Denon out of the HDMI chain and they were virtually gone. Still the odd one on the glass panels, probably because the processor can't "see" those edges?
When I watched the figure skating there was none, and that was with the Denon in the loop. But slower pans tighter shots probably had a lot to do with that.

I'll give you an evaluation of how the processor handles SD hockey first chance I get. But I tend to think "garbage in garbage out" would apply.

Thanks for the detailed reply. I have really gotten into watching hockey on the pj.
Having Center Ice allows me to switch between many games. The power zoom
feature comes in handy since SD looks better with a smaller picture. I would
really like to keep this feature with any upgrade so with the processing and all of its features, the Mits is certainly of interest. (By the way. I am from
Edmonton as you may have guessed from the name. So despite my current
location I can appreciate your "center of the Universe" comment.)

Regards

Did you see the jaggies on the HD hockey game? I am a die hard Canucks fan and of course watch all the games I can't see at GM place. Not really fair only 9 of the Canucks games are in high def while all of Toronto's games are.

John

Unfortunately most of the Western feeds of HNIC are not in HD, but are widescreen SD feeds, while the Toronto feed usually is HD. Just last week the Toronto feed was SD widescreen (jaggies), while the Washington game in Edmonton (with Ovechkin) was in HD (no jaggies).

A proper HD feed of hockey should eliminate the jaggies on any projector.

Got mine today. Only 1/4 pixel mis-convergence on 1 panel. :D

Got mine today. Only 1/4 pixel mis-convergence on 1 panel.

Do you have any other info on it? What screen and screen size do you use? Does the lumen output seem okay? Is the sharpness still as stellar as it was in the pre-units?

PS.
Det var fan vad snabba ni var i Norge! Här i Sverige väntar man fortfarande på sitt exemplar. Börjar få alkoholliknande besvär ;)
DS.

Do you have any other info on it? What screen and screen size do you use? Does the lumen output seem okay? Is the sharpness still as stellar as it was in the pre-units?

PS.
Det var fan vad snabba ni var i Norge! Här i Sverige väntar man fortfarande på sitt exemplar. Börjar få alkoholliknande besvär ;)
DS.

106" diagonal screen size. Seems plenty bright in low mode, auto iris1. Sharpness is fantastic. Me thinks that some other 'hot' product is very soft in comparison. ;)

PS! Min gikk via Gøteborg, så du borde ha hatt den allerede! :)

Would you HC5000 owners be willing to measure and report the max throw ratio?

By its specs it's a little short of the 2.4:1 I need, but I'm hoping optical tolerances (I believe 10% is considered typical) will vary enough that one might work for me.

Thanks

I REALLY want to get some comparisons between the HC5000, Pearl and the Panny AE1000! Funny enough, I can get the HC5000 and AE1000 for exactly the same price here in Canada, although the AE1000 is selling for less than the HC5000 in the US. The price for the HC5000 in Canada is great as it is lower than a straight US - Can. dollar conversion. The AE1000 is a bit more than a straight dollar conversion, but once shipping is factored in, it's still cheaper for me to buy in Canada. For me the Pearl is a wee bit more expensive, but not a whole lot, so it's very much in the running.

To get back on topic, the only thing I'm not liking about the HC5000 is its lowish contrast and noticable dynamic iris. Now, it's been mentioned that in Auto 1 the iris really isn't very noticable at all. I'd still like to hear how the black bars in a 2.35:1 aspect movie respond to the HC5000's dynamic iris. Yes, I know about masking and I know about constant height setups...I just don't have them and won't have them for the foreseeable future.

So could someone with the HC5000 watch a 2.35:1 aspect ratio movie and pay special attention to the black bars, please? I'd love to get a subjective idea of just how much the black level fluctuates, how close it is to "true" black and how noticable the change in black level is using the various auto iris modes.

Also, just out of curiosity, how does auto 3 mode compare? Going by cine4home's numbers it seems like auto 3 is somewhere between auto 1 and auto 2. Auto 2 is the most aggressive clearly and gives the highest measured on/off contrast, but I've heard from several places and users that the iris is rather obviously visible in auto 2. Auto 1 seems to be the least aggressive, but gives the lowest on/off contrast (other than the iris totally off, of course). I suppose it would be obvious to expect auto 3 to be somewhere in the middle, but I'd love to hear some first hand reports.

Thanks so much for all the info so far. Now that price between these 3 units is so close, it's made this decision very difficult. Poor me...to have to chose between 3 excellent projectors...I'm so hard done by :p

Jon

rnrgagne,

On behalf of all us curious folks, thank-you for your extensive review and feedback on the HC 5000. It sounds very good so far.

If anybody has an iScan HD/HD+ and can hook it up to the HC5000, that would be great. It would be nice to compare how the DVDO de-interlacing and ABT scaling etc works vs the built-in on the HC 5000. The one problem with the HC 5000 having its own processor is that it doesn't have an SDI input!

106" diagonal screen size. Seems plenty bright in low mode, auto iris1. Sharpness is fantastic. Me thinks that some other 'hot' product is very soft in comparison.

PS! Min gikk via Gøteborg, så du borde ha hatt den allerede!

Man bor tydligen i fel stad :)

Will you perform any numerical testing on it? What's your take on the shadow detail and contrast? Have you compared it to any another 1080p projector? If so please let us know the results. Even if I had my sample I still don't have the means to measure these things myself. Even though the pre-sample I saw was "locked" and lacked a lot of the normal possiblilities conserning settings the contrast didn't seem as low as has been reported thus far.

Ps. Kommer du månne till projektormässan i Stockholm i helgen? I sådant fall finns det möjlighet till övernattning hos mig och bor 500 meter ifrån :D

rnrgagne,

On behalf of all us curious folks, thank-you for your extensive review and feedback on the HC 5000. It sounds very good so far.

If anybody has an iScan HD/HD+ and can hook it up to the HC5000, that would be great. It would be nice to compare how the DVDO de-interlacing and ABT scaling etc works vs the built-in on the HC 5000. The one problem with the HC 5000 having its own processor is that it doesn't have an SDI input!

You're welcome.

I can't speak for the iScans, but I can say that what the Mits does for SD-DVD input at 480i through HDMI is exceptional.

I can't wait for more first end user reports - so far most of the pro reviews are pretty much in line with what I'm seeing although the only reported negatives, low CR and lumen output, just don't seem to be a factor to this laymans eyes, in my HT at least.

I watched Batman Begins in HD-DVD last night in Auto Iris 1 at the "medium" color setting and was very impressed with what I saw, colors and skin tones were very natural and the sharpness & detail is so good that I could make out the texture of the grease-paint around Batman's eyes inside his mask.

I can confirm Cine4home's report of lousy PAL film mode. I tested only a few clips, but the Reon chip dropped quite often to video mode. I would say that you definately need a progressive source for PAL material with the current state of the Reon application. I hope there's a firmware update coming...

Does anybody else have a barely lighter horizontal band in the middle of the picture? It's easiest to see in an appropriate grey scene. Here's (http://people.cc.jyu.fi/~jajuhyvo/HC5000/IMG_205s.JPG) a sample picture, look closely at the white wall.

Oh, one other thing. You'll definately need a 24p source as 60Hz signal judders pretty badly, not that it's specifically can be considered as a fault in this projector. 50Hz PAL looks quite smooth.

Well, with an SDI Panny CP72 and an iScan HD+ with SDI I would have de-interlacing covered in spades, with the option of using Faroudja in the Panny, SI/DVDO from the HD+ or the REON processor in the Mitsubishi...lol.. Maybe too many options :cool:

I guess the biggest thing for me to start with is the worn out question of black level and contrast. The Epson 500's black level is about inbetween the Hitachi TX100 and auto iris TX200 so I am using that to judge.

1) Just for review, how much blacker is the black level of the HC5000 vs your older Epson 500?

2) Also, how are the aspect ratio control options? Can the Mitsubishi manage a constant height setup on its own without a video processor?

2) Also, how are the aspect ratio control options? Can the Mitsubishi manage a constant height setup on its own without a video processor?Unless there's a feature I've missed, then the answer is:

1. Yes for SD/ED.
2. No for HD (at least 1080i).

It's reported that the Reon chip is capable of doing the necessary vertical stretch also for HD, so it could be only a matter of firmware update to Mitsu.

I can say something also regarding the black level. I've been using crt projectors for 5 years and I think the black level is quite adequate. And this is with Auto 1, 63" wide 1.3 gain screen (gives >30ftL). But I'm not a black level nut, as long as other aspects are good enough, I can manage with non-true blacks.

By the way, here's (http://people.cc.jyu.fi/~jajuhyvo/HC5000/) a few pictures of my setup.

Cool and nice pics of the "arrival and mount installation" ;)

Your screen is a little on the small side at 72" diagonal, but that's ok. My Hitachi TX200's screen is going to be around 98" diagonal (16:9) at the largest when I finish the 2.37:1 constant height screen.

Weird about the lack of aspect ratio controls on 1080i. Like you said, perhaps a firmware upgrade would help. I have another question:

How is the de-interlacing of 1080i material?

How is the de-interlacing of 1080i material?Not much to complain. Usually 1080i HD looked fabolous. The Fast and the Furious HD DVD (through Tosh A1) gave a few twitches and some older films (Lethal Weapon 2, The Fugitive) had some jaggies. The latter may have been the source material (?).

I don't have any 1080i video material, so can't comment on that.

Far enough. I suppose a VP30 with ABT would be better and a VP50 would be best, in terms of 1080i de-interlacing (not-with-standing the even more expensive options out there). I wonder how my iScan HD+ handles 1080i ... I guess I should give it a try. I suppose it could be comparable to the Mits Reon processing.

[QUOTE=cpc]

I guess the biggest thing for me to start with is the worn out question of black level and contrast. The Epson 500's black level is about inbetween the Hitachi TX100 and auto iris TX200 so I am using that to judge.

1) Just for review, how much blacker is the black level of the HC5000 vs your older Epson 500?

QUOTE]

Tough to say, without having them side by side - but if I go by my recollection of the black bars, maybe 20 - 30% max.

If you can tell a difference without having them side by side, that is something. You remember the 500 having greyer looking blacks? Even 20% blacker sounds fairly decent. It just doesn't quite sound like $2000-$3000 worth of upgrade for me yet.

EDIT: These are outdated comments, see my post later on!

My observations on the different iris modes:

Auto 1: Basically what's commonly reported. Iris closes and opens with a little delay and does it in quite clear steps. Usually the best mode though.
Auto 3: Has noticeably less delay than Auto 1 and also operates the iris a lot quicker, making the stepping less pronounced. Sometimes makes the movement easier to notice than in Auto 1, sometimes not.
Auto 2: Even faster than Auto 3 in both delay and movement. Bad side is that in this mode brightness varies quite easily even with a very little change in scene. However Auto 2 can still work pretty well if the material is of right sort.

Operating of the iris can be spotted in all these modes with a right material. I haven't chosen a favourite mode because different modes can give different results depending on the movie. I haven't spotted ANY brightness compression, so at least the gamma processing is doing it's job pretty well.

Interesting note is that the absolute black level doesn't vary much at all between the different modes! Difference to the iris fully open mode is quite noticeable though.

Conclusion: the Auto iris isn't the best but I see a lot of potential in it which a firmware update could improve. Giving the user more control over the iris operation and combining properties of the existing modes (like the delay from Auto 1 and motor speed from Auto 2 if one desires such operation) would be in top of my Christmas present list. One feature I would like to control is the operation in bright scenes: keep the iris static as much as possible and close it only for dimmer scenes. I would be willing to sacrifice some lumens for this (at >30ftL I can actually afford to lose some).

And a final recommendation: go and see the Mits if you're worried about the iris. Based on the worst reviews I was expecting a little worse than what I actually got. ;)

Thanks for the Iris report JaniH. This supports Jason's findings as well which make this a no go for me unfortunately as this type of thing drives me nuts. Most people I am sure would be oblivious to it though and this is a solid unit in all other areas. Maybe a firmware update will come out. Thanks again.

If you can tell a difference without having them side by side, that is something. You remember the 500 having greyer looking blacks? Even 20% blacker sounds fairly decent. It just doesn't quite sound like $2000-$3000 worth of upgrade for me yet.

Well if it's judged just on black level, probably not. But inluding shadow detail, sharpness and resolution the Mits trounces the 500 is absolutely worth the extra bucks IMHO.

Far enough. I suppose a VP30 with ABT would be better and a VP50 would be best, in terms of 1080i de-interlacing (not-with-standing the even more expensive options out there). I wonder how my iScan HD+ handles 1080i ... I guess I should give it a try. I suppose it could be comparable to the Mits Reon processing.I really doubt VP30 or HD+ could be better than Reon since they don't do real HD film deinterlacing. VP50 should be at least equal to Reon.

I actually have a VP30 here, but it isn't currently connected. I'll probably test it to output 1080/24p with NTSC SD DVD's to confirm correct processing of this signal in the HC5000. After that I'll be selling it since I no longer have use for it.

Does anybody else have a barely lighter horizontal band in the middle of the picture? It's easiest to see in an appropriate grey scene. Here's (http://people.cc.jyu.fi/~jajuhyvo/HC5000/IMG_205s.JPG) a sample picture, look closely at the white wall.
Any HC5000 owners out there care to comment on this? My HC5000 isn't here yet, and if all of them have this defect, I just might have to pass.

Well if it's judged just on black level, probably not. But inluding shadow detail, sharpness and resolution the Mits trounces the 500 is absolutely worth the extra bucks IMHO.

Very true, I wouldn't buy a projector for the black level improvement alone. Black level and contrast is still the most important thing on my list of wants in a new projector. I really wish it had dual iris's, but I suppose using a colour filter or an ND filter could achieve similar results in terms of dimming the image and darkening the black levels. Ultimately, if the Mitsubishi looks better than the other dual-iris projectors like the Z4/Z5 and/or the Hitachi TX200 that I have, then I guess that is ok.

I need to see this thing in action. Anybody in the GTA springing for one of these fine machines any time soon?

I really doubt VP30 or HD+ could be better than Reon since they don't do real HD film deinterlacing. VP50 should be at least equal to Reon.

I actually have a VP30 here, but it isn't currently connected. I'll probably test it to output 1080/24p with NTSC SD DVD's to confirm correct processing of this signal in the HC5000. After that I'll be selling it since I no longer have use for it.

So you obviously think the HD is redundant now that you have the REON in the Mitsubishi?

Although it doesn't look as though the Mitsubishi is in my immediate future, I wish the projector could accept SDI as I am getting an SDI dvd player.

Is there any way to modify a projector to receive SDI?

Can you switch/transcode SDI to DVI or HDMI somehow? (I am pretty sure that my iScan HD+ will always de-interlace the interlaced signals so although I can send my HD+ an SDI 480i signal and output that 480i over DVI to the Mitsubishi, I cannot output an interlaced signal). As of yet, there are no dvd players with top of the line MPEG decoding AND DVI output which send 480i on DVI.

I bought a universal mount a long time ago and I hated it - I basically used some of the parts and fabricated my own concoction. I just quickly modified it last night. I will do a better job down the road.

It uses the same M4 screws but has an unusual (to me anyways) three-point pattern whereas the Epson had four. I don't think that would be a problem with a universal mount.

I used a bedside slide in table, the kind with an L arm. The wooden tray upside down becomes the ideal mount because now you can drill holes for the M4s.

http://us.st11.yimg.com/us.st.yimg.com/I/comfortstore_1920_15531732

I got mine at a yard sale for a few bucks, painted it black and unscrewed the adjustable height pole from the wheeled base.

Ironically the only hockey I've watched so far was in HD - the Canuck Colorado game. Go figure, compared to the "center of the universe" AKA Toronto, ;) we lost souls get only one or two Canucks game in HD all year!!

You're right about SD hockey - it is brutal.

As it is, hockey in general seems to be really tough on processors - lots of straight lines and quick pans on a white surface; following the fastest game on the planet is a real test. I think it's a better test than the waving flag actually.
I saw a lot of jaggies with the Epson despite the DCDi, and at first the Mits exhibited a bit more jaggies than I had seen with the Epson, but I took the Denon out of the HDMI chain and they were virtually gone. Still the odd one on the glass panels, probably because the processor can't "see" those edges?
When I watched the figure skating there was none, and that was with the Denon in the loop. But slower pans tighter shots probably had a lot to do with that.

I'll give you an evaluation of how the processor handles SD hockey first chance I get. But I tend to think "garbage in garbage out" would apply.

You really need to get Dish HD. You get WorldSportHD and it will show the CFL games as well as hockey, then ESPN1,2 UniHD, and with a Terk on the TV you can combine your HD locals (ABC,NBC etc.) which the VIP622 will decode. OMG, just love the icicles flying and seeing the fibers hanging out of the gear, not to mention the 5.1 surround which i DPLIIEX anyway.

You deserve 23 HD channels for this new baby of yours.

You really need to get Dish HD. You get WorldSportHD and it will show the CFL games as well as hockey, then ESPN1,2 UniHD, and with a Terk on the TV you can combine your HD locals (ABC,NBC etc.) which the VIP622 will decode. OMG, just love the icicles flying and seeing the fibers hanging out of the gear, not to mention the 5.1 surround which i DPLIIEX anyway.

You deserve 23 HD channels for this new baby of yours.

Thanks for the thought but I'm in Canada. ;) (I have the Bell ExpressVu 9200 HD-PVR sat.; Tons of HD channels and up to 70hrs of HD recording.)

Is there any way to modify a projector to receive SDI?Lumagen are producing a "low cost" (whatever that means) SDI -> HDMI converter to allow use of SDI inputs with their upcoming Radiance video processor. Sometime in Q1 2007.

Interesting... Will it be exclusive to their equipment?

I came across 2 versions of the HC500 specs. One showed pc compatibility up to 1280x1024 (sync on green) and the other 1920x1080 (sync on green). Does anybody know which one is correct and whether it differs between regional models ? Thanks.

Interesting... Will it be exclusive to their equipment?Unlikely I think. BTW, apparently Algolith also produce one of these converters, but I'm not sure if it is available without buying one of their VPs.

Hi, guy's just got my Mits last week, is anyone able to send succesfuly to Mits a signal 1080p 24p/48p/72p, i have a Crystalio2 and i am trying to send those timings with NO Luck, maybe I am missing something.

I came across 2 versions of the HC500 specs. One showed pc compatibility up to 1280x1024 (sync on green) and the other 1920x1080 (sync on green). Does anybody know which one is correct and whether it differs between regional models ? Thanks.

I don't know if that helps, but i connected my MacBook via VGA with a resolution of 1980x1080 and i have the Euro model. I don't think that there is a difference from a technical standpoint between regional models other than the color of the projector.

I connected the Xbox 360 via VGA and it accepts 1920x1080

Hi, guys.
I've got my mit for a week now, and as I am new to HT and never had anything before, I am happy with my new system. I got a denon 4806, carada BW 100", RBH speakers and the mit hc5000. The dvd player is a oppo 971h. I don't know much about calibration and I don't know if I am too demanding, but I am not overwhelmed with my system. My room is dark enough, but I don't see all those dark scenes with great details on shadow. I am using low lamp mode, auto iris 2 (as I read it's the best for contrast), but as I said, it's just ok. I think, maybe, I need to see other projectors to compare. I bought it based on reviews, but I think I expected more.
Maybe I need to check on projectors to see them suck and start thinking mine is better.
Do you guys have ideas for calibrating? How did you do yours?
Thanks.

Quick thoughts: I've settled on Auto Iris 1, as this setting produces a good result without calling attention to itself.

I set a custom color temp setting based on the review in projectorreviews.com.

Other quick settings: gamma: cinema sharpness: 0 color: 6 tint:0 using DVE as a guide. I'm using standard bulb setting, as I think this delivers more punch to the picture.

Thanks for your reply. I am sorry, but what is DVE?

Sorry. Digital Video Essentials setup DVD.

... in the same situation of Octogon ... C2+Hc5000=BAD 1080p@24/48Hz!!!

Actually I use this resolution when I'm viewing my BDRs (Panny player):
H Active Pixel = 1920 V Active Pixel = 1080
H Front Porch = 528 V Front Porch = 3
H Sync Width = 126 V Sync Width = 5
H Back Porch = 246 V Back Porch = 25
H Total = 2820 V Total = 1113
Refresh Rate = 2398 Pixel Clock = 75,25

This is the best setting that I found ... perfect pannings and perfect picture.
But the situation is not stable ...
after a few minutes(or hours)of perfect vision a strange thing happens!

http://www.ristorantealrustico.com/sharing/24p/linea.jpg

It appears a "line" in the low part of the screen ... in the picture above I've indicated the "line" with the red arrows.
This "line" cut the image in two portions not perfectly line up among them.

I've noticed this problem after one hour of a perfect viewing of a BDR film.
In other cases the problem appears earlyer (after 10/20 minutes).

I've also tried this settings:

http://www.ristorantealrustico.com/sharing/24p/settings.jpg

But the problem persists.

At this point I've to understand if the problem is in the C2 or in the HC5000.

Can some one post some surely-working 1080p@24/48Hz settings?
Or Can some one test my setting on his own chain?

Thank you so much 4 an help.
Actarus.

Hi, i have just tried those settings, that you have mention above, i got the mits to lock cadence i both 1080p/24 and 1080p/48 the 24 one looks a bit choppy, the 48 one lokks ok, will have to watch more hd stuff and spme HD dvd, i'm off to see the ufc right now, anyone else had more luck?

Hi, i have just tried those settings, that you have mention above, i got the mits to lock cadence i both 1080p/24 and 1080p/48 the 24 one looks a bit choppy, the 48 one lokks ok, will have to watch more hd stuff and spme HD dvd, i'm off to see the ufc right now, anyone else had more luck?

...mmm.... in my tests (all with BDRs) all the 48Hz res. gives not perfect pannings.
The 24Hz goes much better.

Anyway, I'm waiting 4 your tests ...
In the meantime I repost this 3ad:
http://www.pixelmagicforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=2202

Acta.

anyone hear if the PAL problems have been fixed?

I believe the PAL 2:2 problem was fixed in a firmware update a while ago. All newer stock should have this update.

I believe the PAL 2:2 problem was fixed in a firmware update a while ago. All newer stock should have this update.


Many thanks, great news indeed.

where are you guys finding this projector for sale? cant seem to find it on google in ontario for sale.

toronto area.

im looking to upgrade my parents 50" panasonig GAOO (sp?) rptv, for them as a post x-mas present.

I've never actually seen a home projector displayed before but the size intrigues me. Can you actually watch these during the day with say, the blinds open?

where are you guys finding this projector for sale? cant seem to find it on google in ontario for sale.

toronto area.

im looking to upgrade my parents 50" panasonig GAOO (sp?) rptv, for them as a post x-mas present.

I've never actually seen a home projector displayed before but the size intrigues me. Can you actually watch these during the day with say, the blinds open?


Not this particular projector since it's not bright enough. Most front projectors require some light control to view satisfactorily.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=9477491&&#post9477491

I have some example digital photos of a Mitsubishi HC5000 with low lamp mode, a grey high-contrast da-lite vinyl screen and two floorstanding ceiling lamps on 15-20 feet away. You can see how much that amount of light affects the image. Daylight or more ambient light like ceiling fluorescents washes the image out badly for front projection. Downward facing canned spotlights lights tend to do fairly well though as these are much more directed. Again your mileage may vary with how dark/reflective the room itself is.

Blippy2005,

Interesting photo shots. Nice to see that there is another home theatre owner who also has a drop ceiling with white office ceiling tiles AND wood veneer panels :cool: Drop ceilings are a no-brainer for running cables, that is for sure ;) You know what I am doing? I bought Black Flannelette from Fabricland, the same place I buy my blackout material for my screen, and I am attaching the Black Flannelette to the ceiling tiles with a glue gun. This room is expendable. I am also putting the black masking along the bottom below the screen and on the side walls. Not doing anything with the carpet.

I am not an HC5000 owner, but the Mits is still a prospective projector upgrade for me (although the Epson and JVC are also possibilites for some day in the distant future).

Could we have some more comparisons of contrast and black levels vs HC5000 owners previous projectors?

There have been some extensive testing of the JVC RS1 (HD1) in the Uk and one comment really stood out to me about the projector needing a totally dark room for best picture and it has contrast and lumens by the bucket full.

The HC5000 is much cheaper but still appears to display a great image under same conditions it would appear.

Just a follow up from me; following the very recent release of the HC5000 in the UK, I have decided to order one and it will be with me on tuesday.

Spoke to Mitsubishi UK today and the rather knowledgable chap says that the company really want this projector to do well and are prepared to put excellent back up support.

The 3 year warranty is standard but Steve from Mitsubishi says they don't want any unhappy customers in the Uk and if any problems they will help in every way they can.

Can't wait till it arrives

Wait it has a 3 year warranty in the UK? In the US it's 2 years I believe.

Wait it has a 3 year warranty in the UK? In the US it's 2 years I believe.

It would appear so! Both the seller and Mitsubishi said 3 year

Mitsubishi are also offering 3 Years warranty in Australia for the HC5000.

Seems you guys in the US are getting short changed :(

The best way to make yourself feel better about it is to get one from Prxxe Jaxxn :cool:

One of the best ways is if you buy domestically using a credit card, you can increase your warranty by one year, or to double (to a maximum of ... ?). Check your credit card agreements :) There are other options for importing which give a nice warranty option for extra ca$h.

...anybody compare the Mitsubishi HC5000 to the Epson TW1000?

Spoke to Mitsubishi UK today and the rather knowledgable chap says that the company really want this projector to do well and are prepared to put excellent back up support.

The 3 year warranty is standard but Steve from Mitsubishi says they don't want any unhappy customers in the Uk and if any problems they will help in every way they can.This seems to be the case also in here (although only 2 year warranty). Manufacturer has given me a new unit every time I've found something that made me unhappy. I'm currently on my fourth unit.

One of the best ways is if you buy domestically using a credit card, you can increase your warranty by one year, or to double (to a maximum of ... ?). Check your credit card agreements :) There are other options for importing which give a nice warranty option for extra ca$h.

...anybody compare the Mitsubishi HC5000 to the Epson TW1000?

I asked my guy to call his sales rep for Epson to ask this question, I know, totally biased, and he said that the Epson had a little better contrast........but, and here is the biased, it would crush the HC5000. Plus it comes with and extra bulb and bracket for 6,000 Canadian at the end of the month. That said, I bought an HC5000 last week and put my Epson TW100 to sleep.

I dont know what this thing will street for in the US, but they're retail pricing it in RS1 territory, it sounds like.

I think these should ultimately sell for less than the LCOS projectors. It only makes sense. Sounds like the Mitsubishi is having some quality control issues, but then again, many projectors do. I hope it's not un-usually poor. The Epson is a nice option, but I have heard people develop a strong dislike for Epson because of their odd warranty policy. In Canada, more than one HTF member has mentioned that Epson gives you another not new unit when they find your projector has problems. Not sure if that is still the policy.

No problem whatsoever with my Mits, 270hrs and it still blows me away.

I sent my Cinema 500 back on warranty and got a new one back. It could have been because I was an early adopter as usual so maybe they didn't have any re-furbs yet.
The 500 was very well built unit, (I shouldn't say "was" - I still have it and got to get around to selling it sometime soon.) if the price is competitive I wouldn't shy away from the Epson. The C2Fine panels are their proprietary technology after all.

Is there keystone correction on this model. I have one and am setting it up but there does not seem to be a menu item for keystone....

It says throughout the manual that you can tilt the projector but no mention of how to correct the image.

Anyone?

Is there keystone correction on this model.No there isn't. And it's a good thing, that way nobody will ruin their picture quality with it. Use the lens shift feature to move the picture, and if it's not enough, you'll have to figure out some other place for installation.

I was wondering how well the internal scaler works on SD cable output? I am planing on using a 92"-106" screen, but am not sure how "normal" (non HD) input from my cable is going to look.

Any first hand experience?

Thanks.

according to reports the internal scaler chip is a fantastic piece of kit, however, SD material can suffer, but in many reports it is suggested that the source material is poor and the 5000 shows these flaws up.

Crap in crap out so to speak.

What I would like to know from those with an HC5000 is the ceiling mount. I note from the manual that you should contact mitsubishi.

Anyone got any news that would help me get this?

Thanks

Anyone want to suggest what screen is best suited for the HC5000? My HT room is in the basement with NO ambient light.

Thanks.

It did not suit the High Power, made the blacks too bright.
I think a lower gain grey screen might be best.

I was wondering how well the internal scaler works on SD cable output? I am planing on using a 92"-106" screen, but am not sure how "normal" (non HD) input from my cable is going to look.

Any first hand experience?

Thanks.

I am projecting onto a 100" width (not diagonal) screen and sitting abt 9 feet away.

SD material look far better than my AE700 ever did. I think the Reon is just amazing. In fact, I find the overall motion deinterlacing and upscaling pretty good. I ran out of component inputs and used one of my older players (no upscaling but able to read a variety of discs with questionable quality) through composite and have watched entire movies without worrying abt image quality. True, there are some minor combing artefacts when I am looking at the menu, but in motion, none of these are big enough to worry me.

according to reports the internal scaler chip is a fantastic piece of kit, however, SD material can suffer, but in many reports it is suggested that the source material is poor and the 5000 shows these flaws up.

Crap in crap out so to speak.

What I would like to know from those with an HC5000 is the ceiling mount. I note from the manual that you should contact mitsubishi.

Anyone got any news that would help me get this?

Thanks


Interesting, I replaced my 2 year old Epson TW100 with this Mits 5000 and have found that although the pic is brighter and more colorfull I see more flaws in the Satellite pic in SD and HD. I bought the DVDO VP50 Video Processor to rectify the problem and it does not, although I have yet to get it calibrated. I have been told that the Mits is so clear that it brings out the flaws in the origional signal, like the HD camera that the sports program is using for example. I don't know if this is true or not but I wonder if my 2 year old Epson is better than my new Mits, that said, my Epson wasn't 1080p and the 1080p pic from HD DVD is amazing on my 106".

Interesting, I replaced my 2 year old Epson TW100 with this Mits 5000 and have found that although the pic is brighter and more colorfull I see more flaws in the Satellite pic in SD and HD. I bought the DVDO VP50 Video Processor to rectify the problem and it does not, although I have yet to get it calibrated. I have been told that the Mits is so clear that it brings out the flaws in the origional signal, like the HD camera that the sports program is using for example. I don't know if this is true or not but I wonder if my 2 year old Epson is better than my new Mits, that said, my Epson wasn't 1080p and the 1080p pic from HD DVD is amazing on my 106".

Could you tell me what are you using for a screen? white/grey/silver? Gain?

Interesting question, though - is there such a thing as too much detail?

Thanks

you can always try to defocus the lens to blur it up a little...

Hi guys,
I have to know if some one use this resolution with good results.

I've some tearing if i send to my hc5000 this res. via my Crystalio2.
The guys at PMS tells that C2 have some problems with 1080@24Hz output (if the input is 1080i@60Hz) ... but it works perfect with 1080p@48Hz output.

Now I've tearing with this res and my question is:
Who is responsable about this? My C2 or my Hc5000???

Acta.

rbhargan,

Anyone want to suggest what screen is best suited for the HC5000? My HT room is in the basement with NO ambient light.

More information is needed about your installation before a screen could be intelligently recommended.

How do you plan to mount your projector?
How wide do you want the screen to be?
Will it be wall mounted or electric, front or rear projection?
How far from the screen will the primary seating be?
How many degrees off-axis from the centerline of the screen will seating be located?
Will you want to implement a Cinemascope screen and will it be filled via zoom/shift or with an anamorphic lens?
What color are the room surfaces?
Is image fidelity top priority or brightness?
How much are you willing to spend on a correct screen?

Best regards and beautiful pictures,
G. Alan Brown, President
CinemaQuest, Inc.

"Advancing the art and science of electronic imaging"

rbhargan,



More information is needed about your installation before a screen could be intelligently recommended.

How do you plan to mount your projector?
How wide do you want the screen to be?
Will it be wall mounted or electric, front or rear projection?
How far from the screen will the primary seating be?
How many degrees off-axis from the centerline of the screen will seating be located?
Will you want to implement a Cinemascope screen and will it be filled via zoom/shift or with an anamorphic lens?
What color are the room surfaces?
Is image fidelity top priority or brightness?
How much are you willing to spend on a correct screen?

Best regards and beautiful pictures,
G. Alan Brown, President
CinemaQuest, Inc.

"Advancing the art and science of electronic imaging"


Top questions, I would love to hear the results of this. Respectfully can any HC5000 chip in here?

If so;

ceiling mount or high shelf mount
72" wide
primary seating area 9-10.5ft
Only 3 seats at about 70cm width each seat. Minimal width from screen.
will go for 16:9 screen 1.85:1 with black borders on a 2.35:1 presentation
walls will be a brown color not too dark, ceiling a bit lighter but in the same pallette
Image fidelity priority
Max price for screen $1000

rbhargan,

More information is needed about your installation before a screen could be intelligently recommended.

How do you plan to mount your projector?
How wide do you want the screen to be?
Will it be wall mounted or electric, front or rear projection?
How far from the screen will the primary seating be?
How many degrees off-axis from the centerline of the screen will seating be located?
Will you want to implement a Cinemascope screen and will it be filled via zoom/shift or with an anamorphic lens?
What color are the room surfaces?
Is image fidelity top priority or brightness?
How much are you willing to spend on a correct screen?


ceiling mount of front projector, on center of screen axis
108" (diag) - 94" wide screen (16:9)
Have not decided whether to go wall mount or electric drop down.
Seating will be for 2 to 3 people, center of screen about 10-12 feet from screen
Room is a light beige
Image fidelity is primary goal
Price range $1K-$3K

Thanks.

samhain1,

Joe Kane's newest Stewart GrayHawk RS will cost a little more than $1k, but is the best front projection screen I know of for your application and criteria. It has a gray base with gain to help compensate for the compromised viewing environment conditions in your room.

JKP and Stewart have reformulated the coating on their jointly developed screens. Joe noticed that the former coating on his smaller sized screens (72" wide would qualify) would compromise 1920 x 1080 resolution. Stewart now uses a finer grained gain coating on the StudioTek 130 and GreyHawk RS. Stewart may also have upgraded the surface on their newest FireHawk material, but that screen compromises image fidelity for brightness.

There are other gray-base-with-moderate-gain materials out there for less money. I wouldn't recommend any one in particular over another, except maybe Da-Lite's High Contrast Cinema Vision.

rbhargan,

The same screen would be best for your application. Your viewing environment is even more compromised. Your screen size could justify the StudioTek 130 but it's a white base screen. The prodigious amount of light your walls will reflect back onto the screen would really kill the blacks on a white base material. If your ceiling is white, that will make it even worse.

If your room surfaces were dark I would recommend the StudioTek 130. Your screen is large enough to benefit from the white base and higher gain to help this projector's lower lumen output. I can't advise this application because your room will ruin contrast on a white screen. Contrast trumps peak lumens every time, if overall image quality is your prevailing priority.

rbhargan,

The same screen would be best for your application. Your viewing environment is even more compromised. Your screen size could justify the StudioTek 130 but it's a white base screen. The prodigious amount of light your walls will reflect back onto the screen would really kill the blacks on a white base material. If your ceiling is white, that will make it even worse.

If your room surfaces were dark I would recommend the StudioTek 130. Your screen is large enough to benefit from the white base and higher gain to help this projector's lower lumen output. I can't advise this application because your room will ruin contrast on a white screen. Contrast trumps peak lumens every time, if overall image quality is your prevailing priority.

George,

Yes, I have a white ceiling, and although I have total light control, I can see that reflected light will be an issue. My original thought had been to go with a Firehawk G3 (gain 1.2) in an effort to boost the brightness, but I now see how that would compromise contrast/black levels.

I found some good articles on gain and white/gray screens over at the projectorcentral site, but if you (or anyone else) has any other articles/sites they would recomend, I would be very interested.

Thanks for your help - it is appreciated.

Richard,

The FireHawk will actually enhance and improve contrast and black level. It uses a very dark gray base (.6 gain, if I recall correctly) and adds significant gain to reach the 1.2 figure. Color shift, hot spotting, uneven screen uniformity, reduced viewing angles can and do result. It will reject light contamination from off-axis sources.

It's a marvelous problem-solving screen for seriously compromised viewing environments, but not a reference imager. The FireHawk has been very popular but not for image fidelity. It has sold well in the market but may be mis-used more than any other screen.

Best regards and beautiful pictures,
G. Alan Brown, President
CinemaQuest, Inc.

"Advancing the art and science of electronic imaging"

I have a question to ask of the Mits HC5000 owners and I hope someone can provide an answer. According to the specs the projector accepts 1080p and displays 1080p. If I send 1080i from my HD-DVD player will the projector's Reon video processor convert and display 1080p?

The processor converts every video format to 1080p. Its imager chip is 1920 x 1080, so every input signal must be converted to match the chip. If you send it a 480i signal from an NTSC video source, it will display it as 1080p. It will be soft and look low-res but all the pixels on the chip will be used.

The processor converts every video format to 1080p. Its imager chip is 1920 x 1080, so every input signal must be converted to match the chip. If you send it a 480i signal from an NTSC video source, it will display it as 1080p. It will be soft and look low-res but all the pixels on the chip will be used.

Thanks, George! FYI, the Perfect Vision's latest issue (#75) gave the HC5000 excellent marks with these exceptions: mediocre shadow detail and low peak white level.

So my next question is whether the addition of an external video processor like a Lumagen or DVDO iScan might mitigate the shadow detail and low peak white level.

Could you tell me what are you using for a screen? white/grey/silver? Gain?

Interesting question, though - is there such a thing as too much detail?

Thanks


I am using a Draper DRA 250093 Hidef Grey 106", not sure of the gain. Where I bought the projector they are telling me that because of the high detail I can now see the faults with the cameras that sporting events are using. What I see is when there is a pic of a person at close range in HD it is nice and crisp, if the same head was back further on the screen, not a close up, then there will be blurs or some kind of anomaly around the outside of the head. Don't know what it is but it eliminates my WOW factor and now I find myself looking for it.

So my next question is whether the addition of an external video processor like a Lumagen or DVDO iScan might mitigate the shadow detail and low peak white level.

That would have to be a try-it-and-see item. Perhaps an owner on this thread has tried one of these out with this PJ.

I will definately have change my opinion about the iris behaviour I previously commented on. There's a difference between the first unit I had (fw 2.00) with all the others (all with fw 3.00). Iris is works much less visibly with the newer units. In Iris 1 mode iris is very close to invisible excluding the most extreme cases such as a long fade to black. Something I can definately live with.

The processor converts every video format to 1080p. Its imager chip is 1920 x 1080, so every input signal must be converted to match the chip. If you send it a 480i signal from an NTSC video source, it will display it as 1080p. It will be soft and look low-res but all the pixels on the chip will be used.

How about is you send 1080p/24 or 1080p/48, will those be converted to 1080p/60 ?

How about is you send 1080p/24 or 1080p/48, will those be converted to 1080p/60 ?


As far as I know the pj accepts and displays in multiples of 24. Someone will no doubt clarify

As far as I know the pj accepts and displays in multiples of 24. Someone will no doubt clarify

I'm very interested about this question.
In my tests the 1080p@24 and 48Hz give bad tearings ... but I think this is a Crystalio2 issue and not a Pj issue.
Can someone confirm this?

Acta.

I will definately have change my opinion about the iris behaviour I previously commented on. There's a difference between the first unit I had (fw 2.00) with all the others (all with fw 3.00). Iris is works much less visibly with the newer units. In Iris 1 mode iris is very close to invisible excluding the most extreme cases such as a long fade to black. Something I can definately live with.That's interesting, because UltimateAV just posted their new review of the HC5000 here:

http://www.ultimateavmag.com/videoprojectors/107mits5000/

Most folks complain about the Optoma HD81 DI, but not the other ones. This seems to be their major bugbear, though I suspect it depends on your sensitivity to it, and on the type of films you watch. Unfortunately, the review didn't say which firmware they had loaded.

Nick

That's interesting, because UltimateAV just posted their new review of the HC5000 here:

http://www.ultimateavmag.com/videoprojectors/107mits5000/

Most folks complain about the Optoma HD81 DI, but not the other ones. This seems to be their major bugbear, though I suspect it depends on your sensitivity to it, and on the type of films you watch. Unfortunately, the review didn't say which firmware they had loaded.

Nick

It could be down to firmware. I really couldn't notice it on IRIS1

That's interesting, because UltimateAV just posted their new review of the HC5000 here:

http://www.ultimateavmag.com/videoprojectors/107mits5000/Yeah, I read it. Either my opinion simply is different from theirs or they have the same kind of iris my first unit had. The problem with shifting white balance during iris movement was also something that was noticeable and a little distracting in my first unit but haven't spotted it in my later units.

However the test confirmed my observations with 480p giving a sharper picture than 480i.

I am using a Draper DRA 250093 Hidef Grey 106", not sure of the gain. Where I bought the projector they are telling me that because of the high detail I can now see the faults with the cameras that sporting events are using. What I see is when there is a pic of a person at close range in HD it is nice and crisp, if the same head was back further on the screen, not a close up, then there will be blurs or some kind of anomaly around the outside of the head. Don't know what it is but it eliminates my WOW factor and now I find myself looking for it.

To me it sounds like you are noticing "mosquito noise". It is a common artifact caused by MPEG compression. It occurs as noisy blurring around defined edges. You probably notice it more on smaller heads because the area of noise would be proportionally larger. The Algolith Mosquito was made specifically to clean up mosquito noise. I have never used one so can't comment on it's effectiveness. Alan Gouger did report it working very well in his system when it was first introduced.

I quizzed Shane Buettner, the author of the review, about the firmware level of his sample, but he didn't know. He did have quite a downer on the DI artifacts, though. I'd sure like to know exactly what are the differences between FW V2 and V3!

I think I'm going to get one anyway, though!

Nick

Here is The Perfect Vision's review of the Mits HC5000:

http://mag1.olivesoftware.com/am/getBook.asp?Path=TPV/2007/02/01&BookCollection=TPV_AM&ReaderStyle=TPV&OnePageMode=1

Scroll to page 5 and click on "Price Busting Projector"

Ultimate AV's review of the Mits HC5000

http://ultimateavmag.com/videoprojectors/107mits5000/

Is this projector also known as the MItsubishi LVP-HC5000? I ask because I may import the MItsubishi LVP-HC5000 from Japan and I just want to make sure the LVP-HC5000 has an English OSD.

~Josh

Ok, that is the coolest magazine website I have ever seen. 10/10 for intuitive and easy to navigate!

Ok, that is the coolest magazine website I have ever seen. 10/10 for intuitive and easy to navigate!


agreed, pretty amazing stuff

Is this projector also known as the MItsubishi LVP-HC5000? I ask because I may import the MItsubishi LVP-HC5000 from Japan and I just want to make sure the LVP-HC5000 has an English OSD.

~Josh

Yes, its the same projector. you have a choice of languages on the menu and all markings including the remote are in English. Its says 100 volts but its actually 100-240v.

I just received my new HC5000BL last week and thought I would post my first impressions.

First off, thanks to everyone on this board for sharing information so freely. I live in a remote part of Colorado so it is very difficult to actually see a projector at a dealer before buying it.

The HC5000 is my third projector. Started about 10 years ago with a very expensive Runco CRT model. That was replaced with an Optoma H79 about two years ago. And now the HC5000.

The HC5000 was part of my 1080P upgrade. Also bought the Sony BDP-S1 Blu-Ray player and a Yamaha RX-V2700 receiver. I already had a HD DirecTV DVR.

After reading all of the reviews, I was a bit concerned about the Auto-Iris issue but decided to go ahead anyway. I can honestly report that I have not been able to detect its operation in the Auto-Iris 1 setting. Have not tried the other setting yet.

I settled on the HC5000 for three main reasons. First was the sharpness. Second was the installation flexibility. And third was the DVI input (I have a DVI cable run through the walls and didn't want to change it out or use a second HDMI converter).

I have not been disappointed on any count. The sharpness as has been reported in several reviews is just amazing. Even on standard definition DVDs, I have noticed an improvement. The sharpness on Blu-Ray is just unbelievable :)

Installation was a pretty easy. I have the HC5000 on a high shelf at the back of my room projecting onto a 92" Stewartfilm Grayhawk. The shelf is a bit higher than the top of the screen, so the vertical lens adjustment came in handy. Being able to focus, zoom, and lens shift using the remote while standing close to the screen made this installation much easier than my previous projectors. I had a bit of problem getting the projector squared up and parallel to the screen. The front of the projector is slightly curved so you can't use that as a reference point. I ended up using the silver strip that goes across the back of the projector and squaring that up to the back of my shelf.

Black levels look very good to me. At least as good as my Optoma H79. I can't really remember back to my CRT days.

Overall picture quality is great. The best that I have ever had in my theater room and at a fraction of the price of my first projector :) I even got a "WOW" from my wife when she was watching Under Siege (and I think it was directed at the projector and not at Steven Seagal :) ).

One bonus that I hadn't read about is the startup time for the projector. It warms up and is ready to go in about half of the time it took the Optoma. Now, if the Sony blu-ray player would just hurry up a bit :)

Anyway, thanks again for helping me out. If you are considering this projector, I don't think you will be disappointed.

Mark

glad you're enjoying it. I am a projector virgin and I must say that I love my HC5000. After initial problems, and a replacement this one is spectacularly good.

Here is a thread of my home theatre installation to put the HC5000 right at the centre of my install.

http://www.avforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=443352

I intend to post movie pics when I get the chance

The 5000 is my 4th projector and I have installed several hundred projectors covering a wide number of brands. I love the Mits and believe that it produces a great image and the install flexibility is more than one could ask for at the price.

Yeah, I read it. Either my opinion simply is different from theirs or they have the same kind of iris my first unit had. The problem with shifting white balance during iris movement was also something that was noticeable and a little distracting in my first unit but haven't spotted it in my later units.

However the test confirmed my observations with 480p giving a sharper picture than 480i.

Do you still feel the same way about the operation of the iris? do you still think thats its been improved? anyone else willing to comment on this ?

@all japanese LVP-HC5000 owners with FW < V4:

I'm warning of doing a FW-Update to V4 !

OSD (Menu) will fixed to japanese language - you can't switch to any other language anymore!

This MITSUBISHI strategy is like a beat in my face.
International resellers don't know about this issue - they told "works without problems, fully compatible".
Yes, the projector is amazing at all (till now) - but LVP-owners outside Japan can't profit from newer FW-Updates (-> Fan, modified behaviour after power up).

They took my money - now, I'm as customer are the one who suffers ...
Thank you, MITSUBISHI - but not twice with me!
:mad: :mad: :mad:

Harry, what are you saying - FirmWare Version 4 permanently alters the Menu language from English to Japanese!?!?!?...WTF?

I really like this PJ, but have some concerns about the dust blob issues some of you have posted about. Well, there is a fella on eBay that is selling these with a claimed F/W Ver 4 that eliminates this...

"This has the absolute LATEST firmware revision, version 4, not yet available in the states! It fixes the 'dust blobs' issue in previous units."

Is this true - can and does firmware fix this problem?
Are the blobs isolated issues - or is everyone seeing this?

I'm gearing up to pull the trigger on a 1080p, and this one fits the bill nicely.

Do you still feel the same way about the operation of the iris? do you still think thats its been improved? anyone else willing to comment on this ?Yes, I stand firmly behind my opinion: there was noticeable difference in iris noticeability and white balance shifting between FW2.0 and 3.0 - at least with my units.

FW2.0 is ancient history by now so why are you concerned with this?

BTW, I've switched to Epson TW1000 due to dust issues with HC5000 and been happy since.

Yes, I stand firmly behind my opinion: there was noticeable difference in iris noticeability and white balance shifting between FW2.0 and 3.0 - at least with my units.

FW2.0 is ancient history by now so why are you concerned with this?

BTW, I've switched to Epson TW1000 due to dust issues with HC5000 and been happy since.

When I demoed the Mits it was an older model and the visible iris bothered me. I would of bought it long ago except for the iris and a horizontal band that would appear on some bright scenes. I know the banding issue was dealt with, but I was not sure about the iris. Then I started reading about these dust blobs. Good grief!!

I have looked at the epson as well. What are your thoughts on the difference.
regarding picture obviously also fan noise or iris noise.

thanks for your response.

I have looked at the epson as well. What are your thoughts on the difference.
regarding picture obviously also fan noise or iris noise.I've summed up some differences here: http://www.avforums.com/forums/showthread.php?p=4520915#post4520915

I'd recommend the Sony Pearl also. It's silent, no dust blob issues and better contrast and iris than either of these LCD's. Also as an ex CRT user, I'm a big fan of LCOS/SXRD picture. The Pearl was always my number one choice, but it was a little too expensive for me.

I've summed up some differences here: http://www.avforums.com/forums/showthread.php?p=4520915#post4520915

I'd recommend the Sony Pearl also. It's silent, no dust blob issues and better contrast and iris than either of these LCD's. Also as an ex CRT user, I'm a big fan of LCOS/SXRD picture. The Pearl was always my number one choice, but it was a little too expensive for me.

thanks,
I like the pearl to. I just dont want to have to go through three of them to get a good one?

thanks,
I like the pearl to. I just dont want to have to go through three of them to get a good one?


that's very true and even with the best ones, the picture is often described as 'soft' in comparison to other 1080p projectors.

Harry, what are you saying - FirmWare Version 4 permanently alters the Menu language from English to Japanese!?!?!?...WTF?

I really like this PJ, but have some concerns about the dust blob issues some of you have posted about. Well, there is a fella on eBay that is selling these with a claimed F/W Ver 4 that eliminates this...

"This has the absolute LATEST firmware revision, version 4, not yet available in the states! It fixes the 'dust blobs' issue in previous units."

Is this true - can and does firmware fix this problem?
Are the blobs isolated issues - or is everyone seeing this?

I'm gearing up to pull the trigger on a 1080p, and this one fits the bill nicely.
Do anybody know where new firmware can be downloaded? Anyone that knows how to get the English OSD back from Japanese once stuck be cause of wrong firmware?

I will definately have change my opinion about the iris behaviour I previously commented on. There's a difference between the first unit I had (fw 2.00) with all the others (all with fw 3.00). Iris is works much less visibly with the newer units. In Iris 1 mode iris is very close to invisible excluding the most extreme cases such as a long fade to black. Something I can definately live with.


Hi JaniH. Is there a way to display which version of Firmware the HC5000 projector is equipped with? If so how do I get to that menu? Will a serial number tell me the Firmware version? Thanks

Hi JaniH. Is there a way to display which version of Firmware the HC5000 projector is equipped with? If so how do I get to that menu? Will a serial number tell me the Firmware version? Thanks


This is how it is done on the HC6000.

"Go to Menu, "Menu Position", press "Auto Position", "Enter" and "Auto Position" again"

This is how it is done on the HC6000.

"Go to Menu, "Menu Position", press "Auto Position", "Enter" and "Auto Position" again"


Great thanks, Ill see if it works with the HC5000