That's great we should be hearing firsthand feedback soon then.

The U.K. is part of the EU. It may not have bought into the Euro, but its got this.

Click (http://europa.eu.int/smartapi/cgi/sga_doc?smartapi!celexapi!prod!CELEXnumdoc&lg=EN&numdoc=31999L0044&model=guichett)


I live in the UK and can confirm with a high degree of certainty that many CE products carry a 1 year only warranty.


An example -

http://www.jvc.co.uk/knowledge-list.php?id=8#1

or

http://www.sony.co.uk/view/ShowArticle.action?articlesection=1&article=1088055993417&site=odw_en_GB


Dazzer

This may have been answered in one of the various threads, but the RS1 manual says that selecting high or normal lamp mode doesnt change the expected lamp life. Why would anyone select the normal mode rather than high on a projector that already only has a max of 700 lumens?

"How much it the bracket and the mount together?"

(Not supposed to talk street price....) But from AVS less then the list price Bulldogger posted for just the bracket alone.

Shawn

This may have been answered in one of the various threads, but the RS1 manual says that selecting high or normal lamp mode doesnt change the expected lamp life. Why would anyone select the normal mode rather than high on a projector that already only has a max of 700 lumens?

This has been mentioned a few times, but my opinion is that I wouldn't let that statement make the decision for me. If you have the light control and can use the lower lamp setting, my advice would be to use it. While it may last just as long in the higher lamp mode, I don't believe it until I see it.

This has been mentioned a few times, but my opinion is that I wouldn't let that statement make the decision for me. If you have the light control and can use the lower lamp setting, my advice would be to use it. While it may last just as long in the higher lamp mode, I don't believe it until I see it.


On top of that, the fan noise will not be as loud in low bulb mode. For people with smaller screens, the high mode may be too bright as well in which case low bulb would be a better option. I definately plan to use low bulb mode on my smaller screen to get the ftL where I want them, and to get less fan noise.

Ok gotcha - thanks. I plan on a 119" studiotek, so I imagine ill need all the lumens I can get.

Why would anyone select the normal mode rather than high on a projector that already only has a max of 700 lumens? Primary factor is luminance level. If you can hit a target luminance level that keeps you strongly in the in the heart of SMPTE/DCI luminance specs on your screen (size/area/gain/lumen-driven) and system (spherical or anamorphic), there is no reason, other than personal preference for a brighter-than-spec picture, to not be in the quieter Normal mode. If you are living on the edge of the limits of luminance, then high lamp is the only choice.

Many lamps are quoted as 2000 hours in high mode, and 3000 in low mode from other manufacturers, so I wouldn't be surprised if JVC are just being conservative like they are with their lumen and contrast figures. So running in low may make the lamp last longer, they just don't want to quote 3000 hours when it may last less as is often the case with those from other manufacturers who quote 3000 hours.

Gary

I think the real issue with lamp life is the number of on/off cycles. Way back, when I was a kid, companies would leave the fluorescent lights on 24/7, the extended life (and cheaper electricity) was cheaper than replacing bulbs.

Another good item with a bulb display is a battery backup, just to avoid sudden shutdown of the bulb. Brillian had an intentional time delay when the OFF button was hit. The picture went off but the bulb remained lit, just in case the OFF was unintentional, all in the name of extended bulb life.

"I love lamp." :D

The EU is probably more like the UN than it is the US. Whereas in the US, Federal law supercedes state law, it appears to me with the EU that each nation's laws are held to a higher standard.

What are the expected time frames for JVC USA doing QC/Inspection, then shipment to dealer, and dealer shipment to customer?

This is the scenario I see: once the RS1 arrives at JVC US, it will take at least 2 weeks for QC/Inspection. From there it will take almost a week to be delivered to the dealers. It will be at least another week from the time the dealer receives the JVC's to get it shipped to the customer.

So, we are looking at about 4 weeks for receipt of the RS1 from the day they arrive in the US. Since they are not here yet, we are already looking at March (at the earliest).

Are my time frames about right? Way off base? Do I come across as impatient? Unreasonable? A "fanboy"? I need answers to all these questions. Please help.

I heard from a little birdie that we will find out more on Monday .. when Jason finds out. 8)

I heard from a little birdie that we will find out more on Monday .. when Jason finds out. 8)

Which means that we probably won't hear anything for several more weeks!

:p

Do I come across as impatient?

Maybe just an itsby bitsy bit. But we forgive you :D

What are the expected time frames for JVC USA doing QC/Inspection, then shipment to dealer, and dealer shipment to customer?

This is the scenario I see: once the RS1 arrives at JVC US, it will take at least 2 weeks for QC/Inspection. From there it will take almost a week to be delivered to the dealers. It will be at least another week from the time the dealer receives the JVC's to get it shipped to the customer.

So, we are looking at about 4 weeks for receipt of the RS1 from the day they arrive in the US. Since they are not here yet, we are already looking at March (at the earliest).

Are my time frames about right? Way off base? Do I come across as impatient? Unreasonable? A "fanboy"? I need answers to all these questions. Please help.

Out of curiousity, why would they be doing this inspection (ie: why is it not done at the factory side)? Is it to confirm no significant alteration of units secondary to shipping? I assume they spot check the various lots that arrive, -would the testing really need to hold up nationwide delivery or rather add a couple days to each lot arriving through port?

As an aside, the anticipation of this unit has only been bested in recent memory by the Optoma H81. If things drag out until March delivery I am confident that the posts in this thread will approach delirium levels and surpass in number and incredulity those found in its H81 sister thread.

For those with high gain screens and are contemplating using an ND filter, has anyone come up with a plan on how to attach it to the lens? After studying this hi-res shot, it looks like it might be almost impossible to attach it to the outside of the lens shroud.

http://pro.jvc.com/pro/attributes/PRESENT/photos/general/DSC_1644.jpg

The only alternative I can think of would be to get a filter that fits inside the lens shroud but I'm concerned this might somehow affect the image.

Any thoughts?

The only alternative I can think of would be to get a filter that fits inside the lens shroud but I'm concerned this might somehow affect the image. Sounds dodgey and like it would subject the filter to undue heat. In the movie biz, camera filters never attach to the lens. The are in tray slots in the matte box in front of the lens. You could easily make a three-sided filter holder out of wood and use a square filter. You could use MDF cut down to 3/4" square or so, with a slot for the filter routered down the length and mitered at the corners. This three-sided holder could be attached to a larger piece for a base, sized to position the filter at the correct height. You could dream up all kinds of ways to do it...once you know the prinicple: square filter mounted in front of the lens.

If you use an anamorphic lens, it is even easier. Literally, you can attach the square or round filter to the rear or element/entrance (depending on the type of lens you have).

What are the expected time frames for JVC USA doing QC/Inspection, then shipment to dealer, and dealer shipment to customer?

This is the scenario I see: once the RS1 arrives at JVC US, it will take at least 2 weeks for QC/Inspection. From there it will take almost a week to be delivered to the dealers. It will be at least another week from the time the dealer receives the JVC's to get it shipped to the customer.

So, we are looking at about 4 weeks for receipt of the RS1 from the day they arrive in the US. Since they are not here yet, we are already looking at March (at the earliest).

Are my time frames about right? Way off base? Do I come across as impatient? Unreasonable? A "fanboy"? I need answers to all these questions. Please help.


We will be lucky if we have them by April. Don't you remember how long it took to get the Dwins? :)

" think the real issue with lamp life is the number of on/off cycles."

It's a combination of starts and hours; rule of thumb is one start consumes .1% of life.

We will be lucky if we have them by April. Don't you remember how long it took to get the Dwins? :)


Now you've gone and done it Randall!!! Bad memories pal, bad memories!

And if you, or anyone else, starts saying "two more weeks", things will get ugly! :eek:

For those with high gain screens and are contemplating using an ND filter, has anyone come up with a plan on how to attach it to the lens? After studying this hi-res shot, it looks like it might be almost impossible to attach it to the outside of the lens shroud.

http://pro.jvc.com/pro/attributes/PRESENT/photos/general/DSC_1644.jpg

The only alternative I can think of would be to get a filter that fits inside the lens shroud but I'm concerned this might somehow affect the image.

Any thoughts?

Someone here a couple weeks ago posted what seemed like a totally simple, effective solution for attaching an ND filter where there are no threads. He said he would get the plastic ring diameter of the ND to be identical with the lens diameter and put it against the front of the lens. Then he would secure it with a correctly sized fat or wide rubber band. Half of it on the filter and half on the lens side. Just get a good quality heavy duty band and check it periodically for any deterioration. Sounds like the ticket & simple.

I talked to peerless about two weeks ago and was told that htey did not even have a mount in developement for the RS1. But as I saw with Chief, you get different answers from different people at the same compan so you may want to check back.

Here's an email from their tech support folks:

"We have an accessory, ACC411 which will connect a PJRL mount to any dedicated of universal adapter plate. This will be the piece you will need along with the adapter plate for your new projector."

I've looked on their website for a dedicated plate for RS1 .... will have to write again.

My most appropriate viewing wall is width limited, so I cannot take advantage of 2.35:1 CIH, and will get a 16:9 screen. Has anyone seen what 2.35:1 horizontal black bars look like on the HD-1? Might they be so black as to make masking less important? I'd appreciate any comments.

This feels like Christmas when I was really young.. The wait is killing me.

Here's an email from their tech support folks:

"We have an accessory, ACC411 which will connect a PJRL mount to any dedicated of universal adapter plate. This will be the piece you will need along with the adapter plate for your new projector."

I've looked on their website for a dedicated plate for RS1 .... will have to write again.
Peerless is usually about 50.00 cheaper than Chief. I went ahead and bought the Chief RPA-U mount. I can see that there will be no problem using it. You can elevate it so that even if it goes over the air filter it will not block it. I attached pics of it elevated next to two dvd cases to give an idea of how high it will raise. You can of course lower it. Also, the legs have cut-outs so even if they do travel over the air vent, air can still pass. The Peerless universal mount may work just as well. Do not have any first hand experience with it. Judging from the pics of the RS1 the Chief universal mount should be able to connect without crossing the air vent at all and it it does it would seem irrelevant. If you have an existing RPA mount, the univeral bracket is what really makes the mount univeral. All you would need to do is buy the SLB-U.

I have a question about mounting the RS1 on a 'pedestal' (i.e., shelf or stand). (I asked this once before and thought I had it straight, but I'm confused again!)

The RS1 manual, pg 47, says "When mounting this unit on a pedestal ... , remove the 4 feet on the bottom surface and use all 4 screw holes (M5 screws) to mount. ... When mounting to a pedestal, ensure sufficient space (foot ht of 21.5 mm or higher) around the unit so that the air inlets are not blocked."

My question: why is it necessary to remove the 4 feet? I'm planning to drill 4 holes through my shelf and put screws up from the bottome into the 4 feet locations. Isn't it possible to leave the 4 feet as they are, provided of course that the 4 feet accept screws in their bottoms? Thanks for any clarification! TIA, Bill

It sounds like the feet don't have threads, and that's why you have to remove them to fix the pj to the shelf. That's exactly what I did with my Davis DLS8 back in 2000

Gary

It sounds like the feet don't have threads, and that's why you have to remove them to fix the pj to the shelf. That's exactly what I did with my Davis DLS8 back in 2000

Gary

Ah, so I need to get 4 small pieces of wood, at least 21 mm thick, drill holes in them, and use them for the feet; putting M5 screws up through the shelf, the 4 wooden feet, into the bottom of the pj. Seems overly awkward.

Does it need the spacing if the pj vents are all at the front? With the Davis, I just screwed the feet back into the pj through the shelf.

Gary

My question: why is it necessary to remove the 4 feet? I'm planning to drill 4 holes through my shelf and put screws up from the bottome into the 4 feet locations. Isn't it possible to leave the 4 feet as they are, provided of course that the 4 feet accept screws in their bottoms? Thanks for any clarification! TIA, Bill

I'm going to do the same thing you're doing (for the same "earth shaking" reason ;) ). It would be nice if the feet had threaded holes in them, but it's unlikely and the projector should rest flat without them. You'll just have to make sure that your shelf is level, or use thin washers between the shelf and the projector to level it if it's not.

Does it need the spacing if the pj vents are all at the front? With the Davis, I just screwed the feet back into the pj through the shelf.

Gary

There is a second "filtered" intake on the underside.

Dazzer

Forgot about the 21.5 mm gap required. :o

In that case, I would probably leave the front feet on (you only need two screws through the shelf to keep it from falling off), use washers to build up the height on the back feet, then use the adjustment in the front feet to level the projector.

Well as there's a filter underneath, I'd be inclined to make sure I had the same gap as if the feet were in place so would either use spacers or do as Mike has suggested.

Gary

Thanks for the various comments--very helpful. I'll wait to see if indeed the 4 feet do not have threaded holes in their bottoms, and if not proceed with some of the suggestions above.

Rob Tomlin,

I hear mid-Feb but will find out Monday at a training.

Larry

"My question: why is it necessary to remove the 4 feet?"

If it is like the JVC G10 you unscrew the bolts/feet and then can bolt into the threaded inserts where the feet were originally screwed into the projector.

Shawn

"My question: why is it necessary to remove the 4 feet?"

If it is like the JVC G10 you unscrew the bolts/feet and then can bolt into the threaded inserts where the feet were originally screwed into the projector. Shawn

That is clear; but as several above mentioned, you still need 'feet' to raise the pj ~21 mm off the shelf because of the air intake on the bottom.

I think I like MikeSRC's plan the best: leave the 2 front feet on as they are; and then I will use 2 small 3/4" thick wooden blocks I've already cut, together with a washer or two, to be the back feet that will have the screws coming up from under the shelf. And as Mike said, the two front feet can be used for fine-tuning the leveling process.

I keep getting confused. If I already have the Chief RPA-U, and plan on ceiling mounting, do I need any other bracket, or should I be good to go as is?

thanks,
aaron

If you are already drilling holes into the shelf and the only reason for the space requirement is for the filtered intake, couldn't you just make a hole for the intake in the shelf? Ah scratch that. Spacers are just fine...too much former hushbox thinking.

If you are already drilling holes into the shelf and the only reason for the space requirement is for the filtered intake, couldn't you just make a hole for the intake in the shelf? Ah scratch that. Spacers are just fine...too much former hushbox thinking.

And it would be a pretty big hole in the shelf!

"I think I like MikeSRC's plan the best: leave the 2 front feet on as they are; and then I will use 2 small 3/4" thick wooden blocks I've already cut, together with a washer or two, to be the back feet that will have the screws coming up from under the shelf. And as Mike said, the two front feet can be used for fine-tuning the leveling process."

Just put a washer/nut on the bolt after it passes through the shelf. Then adjust the height of the projector by how far the bolt is screwed into the threads of the projector. Once you get it where you want it tighten the nut/washer down against the shelf. If desired you could put a second bolt on to lock up against the projector.

Shawn

My most appropriate viewing wall is width limited, so I cannot take advantage of 2.35:1 CIH, and will get a 16:9 screen. Has anyone seen what 2.35:1 horizontal black bars look like on the HD-1? Might they be so black as to make masking less important? I'd appreciate any comments.Way too many variables for a yes/no answer. At the demo at CES, it would definitely cast a shadow in the black bars. For me, I can tolerate them, to a degree, the RS1 looked acceptable.

Just put a washer/nut on the bolt after it passes through the shelf. Then adjust the height of the projector by how far the bolt is screwed into the threads of the projector. Once you get it where you want it tighten the nut/washer down against the shelf. If desired you could put a second bolt on to lock up against the projector. Shawn

Say, I like this even better! (Ain't the Forum a great place to pick up all these neat tips!)

Rob Tomlin,

I hear mid-Feb but will find out Monday at a training.

Larry

That would sure be nice! However it just doesn't seem realistic for the reason's Rob mentioned, unfortunately. Hopefully we will be pleasantly surprised.

I keep getting confused. If I already have the Chief RPA-U, and plan on ceiling mounting, do I need any other bracket, or should I be good to go as is?

thanks,
aaron
You are good to go. The RPA-U mount comes with everything that you need. I hope that you kept the different size bolts that came with it. It may require a different size than the bolts you are using now.

Lovingdvd,

That is what I was told today but will find more out Monday.

Larry

"I need to get 4 small pieces of wood, at least 21 mm thick, drill holes in them, and use them for the feet; putting M5 screws up through the shelf, the 4 wooden feet, into the bottom of the pj."

I'd check Home Depot et al for plastic furniture feet.

"I need to get 4 small pieces of wood, at least 21 mm thick, drill holes in them, and use them for the feet; putting M5 screws up through the shelf, the 4 wooden feet, into the bottom of the pj."

I'd check Home Depot et al for plastic furniture feet.

And then put (wood) screws through holes in the shelf up into the plastic feet?

Forgot to mention, drill through holes in the plastic feet, just using them as spacers.

The nice thing is that you might find them in black, so then you're done.

If they don't have black, I'd use wood dowel and make it black with a Marksalot.

Forgot to mention, drill through holes in the plastic feet, just using them as spacers.

The nice thing is that you might find them in black, so then you're done.

If they don't have black, I'd use wood dowel and make it black with a Marksalot.
I'd imagine the feet are already pre-drilled as that is how they are attached to the pj.

What you need to do is buy some new M5 screws that are long enough so when inserted through the mounting shelf you will have around 28 mm's of the screws threads exposed. This will leave you a safe enough length to attach the pj and it's feet to the mounting shelf.

I'd imagine the feet are already pre-drilled as that is how they are attached to the pj.

What you need to do is buy some new M5 screws that are long enough so when inserted through the mounting shelf you will have around 28 mm's of the screws threads exposed. This will leave you a safe enough length to attach the pj and it's feet to the mounting shelf.

That would be much simpler if the feet were pre-drilled to accept M5 screws from below; I guess no one has bothered to look for this (relatively minor feature) to date. But it would be useful to know as one plans for the setup ('nesting' as someone earlier referred to these preliminary preparations!)

PS Maybe this is relatively standard, for the feet to be threaded and accept screws from below; never having had a pj before I have no idea.

PS Maybe this is relatively standard, for the feet to be threaded and accept screws from below; never having had a pj before I have no idea.

I haven't seen that in the half dozen or so projectors that I've owned or sold, but I've never had a JVC projector either. ;)

Has anyone whose owned previous models seen a threaded hole in the feet?

Will the calibration that JVC do be good if the projector is inverted? The HX1/HX2 performed differently depending on whether they were inverted or not. In fact they had to be calibrated inverted by Phelps to get them to shine.

A threaded hole in the feet? Or do you mean the projector body? I have a Sony VPL-W400Q that has threaded inserts in the plastic body of the projector. The foot itself has the threaded rod that goes into the insert on the projector body. When I try to remove the entire foot the rod will stop rotating after about an inch or so. I guess they didn't want you to totally remove the feet The projector has other threaded inserts in the body for a ceiling mount bracket.

When are JVC going to release the new lens calculator that has the HD1/RS1 specs?

R-S

I haven't seen that in the half dozen or so projectors that I've owned or sold, but I've never had a JVC projector either. ;)

Has anyone whose owned previous models seen a threaded hole in the feet?
It's quite possible that the feet simply screw on. I imagine you should be able to get some rubber feet/bumpers that have recessed screw holes in them from Home Depot or Lowes.

Something like this should be pretty easy to find:
http://estco.thomasnet.com/item/bumpers/recessed-bumpers-by-b-dimension-/e-2098?&seo=110

A threaded hole in the feet? Or do you mean the projector body?

We're talking about the feet here. With the RS1, there apparently aren't separate threaded holes for ceiling mounting. You just remove the feet and use those holes. Other projectors I've used have usually been the same as your Sony VPL-W400Q.

I got you. That is what I thought you meant but, saying a "threaded hole in the feet" is confusing. There is no hole in the feet. :)

I am going to a JVC RS-1 training on Monday.

Any questions that still need clarification on that I can ask to get you guys answers????

Larry

I got you. That is what I thought you meant but, saying a "threaded hole in the feet" is confusing. There is no hole in the feet. :)

how do you know? have you looked? :D :p

but seriously, it's at least theoretically possible that they used feet with threaded holes in the bottom to allow us to affix the projector to a shelf. Unlikely, I grant you, but possible.

paul

how do you know? have you looked?

but seriously, it's at least theoretically possible that they used feet with threaded holes in the bottom to allow us to affix the projector to a shelf. Unlikely, I grant you, but possible.

paul

Yes, anything is possible. No need to get snippy Paul.

The feet are being screwed into threaded inserts or "holes" on the projector, correct? So, the feet have a threaded extrusion on the end of them to be screwed into the threaded hole that is on the projector.

"I'd imagine the feet are already pre-drilled as that is how they are attached to the pj. "

I was talking about purchased ones, I wouldn't want to drill the stock ones; not a bad idea though if they're not hard to get or outrageously priced.

I am going to a JVC RS-1 training on Monday.

Any questions that still need clarification on that I can ask to get you guys answers????

Larry

It's a pretty trivial feature, but does affect how we make plans for the RS1. So I would appreciate it if you could look and see the the 4 'feet' of the pj have threaded holes in their bottom; so that one could put an M5 (or any other) screw up through a shelf into the bottom of the feet, without removing them. TIA, Bill

Yes, anything is possible. No need to get snippy Paul.


sorry, my very bad! there was supposed to be a smiley there! I wasn't being snippy, truly.

paul

I am going to a JVC RS-1 training on Monday.

Any questions that still need clarification on that I can ask to get you guys answers????

Larry

Old issue, but ask if any progress was made at implementing vertical stretch.

Hi fellas,

Sorry if this has been asked previously, I did try to search, but found nothing.

The HD1/RS1 has an HDMI connector, as far as I know it is not 1.3 compliant, but older versions of HDMI are meant to support 10 bit YUV over HDMI.

Does anyone know if this is the case for the JVC?

My planned setup is a 1.3 BD player (Probably the Samsung as it is the only that supports 1.3 and it comes with the Reon chip too), a Denon 1.3 AVR (to be released at Cedia as far as I know) and then on to the projector. So I'd really hate to the lose the 10-bits of colour graduation (even if it has been interpolated by the source's processing) by displaying it on an 8-bit HDMI JVC HD1.

Thanks for any input,

M.

Good news..

We finally got a real "serial model", so we can complete our review very soon ;-)

Regards,
Ekkehart, Cine4Home

Good news..

We finally got a real "serial model", so we can complete our review very soon ;-)

Regards,
Ekkehart, Cine4Home

Look forward to the review.

Good news..

We finally got a real "serial model", so we can complete our review very soon ;-)

Regards,
Ekkehart, Cine4Home
Looking forward to it! ETA?

Yes, it really would be nice to get some 'real' info to go with all the fluff we've been producing.

Way too many variables for a yes/no answer. At the demo at CES, it would definitely cast a shadow in the black bars. For me, I can tolerate them, to a degree, the RS1 looked acceptable.

One will probably always need masking, even with 100000:1 projector, unless your room it reflection free... which most people do not have!

My room is essentially reflection free, a black pit, and I have a CRT. Masking makes a hugh difference. I can certainly watch it without employing the variable 4 way masking of my Stewart screen, but it is better with the masking. Eliminating the reflective portions of the screen where the black bars are will always be superior to illuminating a reflective screen with "black" light.

Will it do the required vertical stretch???? Thats all what stands in the way for me!

Ben

Will it do the required vertical stretch???? Thats all what stands in the way for me!

Ben
No. Guess you will have to consider another projector.

Hi fellas,

Sorry if this has been asked previously, I did try to search, but found nothing.

The HD1/RS1 has an HDMI connector, as far as I know it is not 1.3 compliant, but older versions of HDMI are meant to support 10 bit YUV over HDMI.

Does anyone know if this is the case for the JVC?

My planned setup is a 1.3 BD player (Probably the Samsung as it is the only that supports 1.3 and it comes with the Reon chip too), a Denon 1.3 AVR (to be released at Cedia as far as I know) and then on to the projector. So I'd really hate to the lose the 10-bits of colour graduation (even if it has been interpolated by the source's processing) by displaying it on an 8-bit HDMI JVC HD1.

Thanks for any input,

M.

The JCV has 10 bit processing courtesy of its Gennum VXP image processor. So I don't see how this would be different to the BD player "interpolating" the 8-bit source. The only time this may be an issue is if/when source material is encoded in "deep colour" and I don't think this will be anytime soon for movies.

http://www.gennum.com/ip/vxp_technology.html

Dazzer

Let's hope it does "variable" vertical stretch! Sometimes those fixed vertical stretches cause cropping. A variable stretch is better at making use of all aspect ratio's between 1.78:1 and 2.37:1. While we are at it, why not ask for horzontal stretch too?

Just because the hdmi interface is 1.3 compliant doesn't mean the electronics and display chips will actually deliver deep color. I doubt we'll see that anytime soon. I thought the PS3 was the only bd piece claiming to offer hdmi 1.3. And as Dazzer said, there probably won't be any deep color sources for years.

Probably the most immediate need for 1.3 is that advanced audio codecs will be passed with it. This would be useful for [HD] dvd players and audio processors/receivers. Of course, your receiver would have to decode the advanced codec for the 1.3 to matter. Does the Denon do that, or just have a 1.3 compliant interface?

There are so many variables, it seems hdmi1.3 is still a non-issue, certainly for a display.

Just because the hdmi interface is 1.3 compliant doesn't mean the electronics and display chips will actually deliver deep color. I doubt we'll see that anytime soon. I thought the PS3 was the only bd piece claiming to offer hdmi 1.3. And as Dazzer said, there probably won't be any deep color sources for years.

Probably the most immediate need for 1.3 is that advanced audio codecs will be passed with it. This would be useful for [HD] dvd players and audio processors/receivers. Of course, your receiver would have to decode the advanced codec for the 1.3 to matter. Does the Denon do that, or just have a 1.3 compliant interface?

There are so many variables, it seems hdmi1.3 is still a non-issue, certainly for a display.
Epson TW1000 will deliver deep color. PS3 will deliver source material, video games, in the near future.

I am going to a JVC RS-1 training on Monday.

Any questions that still need clarification on that I can ask to get you guys answers????

Larry

Hi,

yes, I have a question :

a gamma customization software would be available for RS1, (as it is for the HD 2 K or the HD 10 K) ?

If it could be delivered with the PJ in USA and in EU, it will be great.

Bulldogger,
I see that the Epson TW1000 has hdmi 1.3. That certainly means it will accept 48bit color signals but what does it do with them? Are the lcd chips and accompanying electronics capable of displaying 48 bit color? I'll bet not.

The hdmi1.3 interface is just 1 link in the chain from source to screen. Its the first to appear and probably the least expensive.

Bulldogger,
I see that the Epson TW1000 has hdmi 1.3. That certainly means it will accept 48bit color signals but what does it do with them? Are the lcd chips and accompanying electronics capable of displaying 48 bit color? I'll bet not.

The hdmi1.3 interface is just 1 link in the chain from source to screen. Its the first to appear and probably the least expensive.

Right - just because a display has a HDMI speced for 1.3 doesn't mean it implements any of its features. If Epson specifically says it supports Deep Color than that's another thing all together.

Would shelf mounting on back wall of theater be subject to speaker/sub sound vibrations if projector screwed to shelf or would an isolation platform work better?
joe

PS3 will deliver source material, video games, in the near future.
I wouldn't count on it. Then again, that's just me having a hard time believing anything Sony says with regards to the PS3. I'll believe it when I see it and not until then. ;)

On a side note, the February issue of Home Theater magazine has an article on xvYCC and Deep Color and does a nice job of explaining it in rather simple terms. In the end, the article basically says that it's a great idea with a lot of promise, but other than the PS3 (if you believe Sony's PR ;)) and PC's, don't expect to see it any time soon.

Can someone please direct me to the thread/post about the JVC RS-1/HD-1 which had PHOTOS showing "shadow detail" as compared to another projector ? I've looked everywhere, and I'd like to show the wife the difference and why we should upgrade from our AE900. Thank you.

Would shelf mounting on back wall of theater be subject to speaker/sub sound vibrations if projector screwed to shelf or would an isolation platform work better?
joeAny mounting is subject to vibration contamination. You need to consider the construction and location. I would think a 2x4 wall with a shelf might be more subject to vibration, over a ceiling mount, however, someone walking on the floor, just above the ceiling mount, can cause additional vibration. A ceiling mount near the back of the room could be the most stable. The closer the shelf is to the ceiling, the less vibration you should have. Seems vibration would be maximum at mid-span.

Actually, devices to isolate ceiling mounted projectors from footfall induced vibrations on the flor above are readily avai;lable for purchase.

Epson TW1000 will deliver deep color.
Have you seen it ? I have and it did not look that good to be honest.
And I was certainly not blown away with colors i have never seen before projected.

Besides that, how would they be able to cover the whole spectrum of colors that is needed with wide color ? New lamp technology ?

Jacovn,check the specs on the Epson, it's the first one spec. to deliver billions of color instead of millions. Man, I am buying the RS1:). Just saying that projectors are on the market that can do the deep color thing. Many televisions will offer Deep color support with models coming to market in 2007. JVC is going to be doing HDMI 1.3 with Deep color support on next year's models. In fact, I would wager that this is the last new model that you will see from JVC that does not have Deep color support. I do not play video games so Deep color is so far off for HD-DVD that is was not even a buying consideration. By the time Deep Color is relevant, I expect that contrast ratios will be at least double what they are on this projector. My next upgrade is going to have to have more than just Deep Color support.

Right - just because a display has a HDMI speced for 1.3 doesn't mean it implements any of its features. If Epson specifically says it supports Deep Color than that's another thing all together.
Yes Espon specifically says it supports deep colors. Most of the past Epson projectors were capable of displaying something like 16 million colors. The tW1000 is capable of 1.2 Billion. That's Deep Color support but not the full Deep Color spec support which would mean about 4 billion colors or something like that. The HDMI association or whatever is called is specifically touting the Sony playstation and the Epson TW1000 as products capable of Deep Color support. What Lovingdvd, you play those video games a lot:). Not me, there are a few things I'd like to see with Deep color ;) but video games do not make the list. Epson is spelling it out in no uncertain terms that the projector will display deep color http://www.prnewswire.com/cgi-bin/stories.pl?ACCT=109&STORY=/www/story/11-28-2006/0004480939&EDATE= the short and sweet, "We believe our customers will literally be stunned when
they see the amazing Deep Color image quality the Epson PowerLite Pro
Cinema 1080 can render using its 12-bit, 1080p technology

Jacovn,check the specs on the Epson, it's the first one spec. to deliver billions of color instead of millions. Man, I am buying the RS1:). Just saying that projectors are on the market that can do the deep color thing. Many televisions will offer Deep color support with models coming to market in 2007. JVC is going to be doing HDMI 1.3 with Deep color support on next year's models. In fact, I would wager that this is the last new model that you will see from JVC that does not have Deep color support. I do not play video games so Deep color is so far off for HD-DVD that is was not even a buying consideration. By the time Deep Color is relevant, I expect that contrast ratios will be at least double what they are on this projector. My next upgrade is going to have to have more than just Deep Color support.


Don't existing displays such as plasma support billions of colours already? I sure Panansonic quote 8.58b colours on existing models and I think my Fuji is over 1b.

Dazzer

If you look at all the specs on the Epson website, it only says "hdmi 1.3 compatible". There is no mention of Deep Color. I saw the billions of colors spec somewhere, but I don't think it was at Epson, I think it was Egadget or somwhere like that. Like I said, there is a big difference between 1.3 support and Deep Color support. I think all of next years models will have hdmi 1.3, but I will be surprised if they have Deep Color.

Can someone please direct me to the thread/post about the JVC RS-1/HD-1 which had PHOTOS showing "shadow detail" as compared to another projector ? I've looked everywhere, and I'd like to show the wife the difference and why we should upgrade from our AE900. Thank you.

Just my two bits... Any display you show photos on won't be able to display the 15k:1 contrast ration anyway, so I believe you won't be able to see it 'till you see the actual thing.

Projector Reviews displays two photos of one scene at different exposures to attempt to get the real shadow detail across. This is the best approximation I've seen, but they haven't been able to review the RS-1 yet.

If you look at all the specs on the Epson website, it only says "hdmi 1.3 compatible". There is no mention of Deep Color. I saw the billions of colors spec somewhere, but I don't think it was at Epson, I think it was Egadget or somwhere like that. Like I said, there is a big difference between 1.3 support and Deep Color support. I think all of next years models will have hdmi 1.3, but I will be surprised if they have Deep Color.
the short and sweet, "We believe our customers will literally be stunned when
they see the amazing Deep Color image quality the Epson PowerLite Pro
Cinema 1080 can render using its 12-bit, 1080p technology
This is the same projector as the TW1000.

yoo gotta have the buzz word. Even if you don't understand what it is or what it does and even in a hundred years you couldn't reliably pick it out from deep throat, you gotta have it or you ain't nobody. Pitty HDMI 2.0 is coming so soon. Gonna obsolete all that deep deep deep color 1.3 stuff. But no siree, none of that light color stuff for me. I wasn't born yesterday, they have been hiding really deep color from us for years.

Guys, you are asking the wrong guy these questions. I am an audiophile. It really is taking a lot of focus for me to buy a new projector even though I have a 4 YEAR OLD LCD. New monoblock, new monoblocks, NEW FREAKIN MONOBLOCKS, that's what the voice inside my head keeps saying.

Just my two bits... Any display you show photos on won't be able to display the 15k:1 contrast ration anyway, so I believe you won't be able to see it 'till you see the actual thing.

Projector Reviews displays two photos of one scene at different exposures to attempt to get the real shadow detail across. This is the best approximation I've seen, but they haven't been able to review the RS-1 yet.

I think most properly calibrated CRT computer monitors could come close. You don't really need to show 15K:1 to show good shadow detail, only a low APL scene. Having said that, I like to look at screen shots but I have little faith that much can be discerned from them.

Bulldogger,

I looked everywhere for that quote you offered. I could not find it on the Epson website or in their official news release.

Do you have a link?

thanks

Should a distinction be made between "supporting" Deep Color and "displaying" Deep Color? And then, the follow-up, between displaying and "seeing" (the difference)?

Hold on - the Deep refers to bit depth, not the colors themselves.

It doesn't give any new colors, just more gradations of the colors we already have.

It's analogous to audio oversampling, which doesn't increase the freq band, but resolution in the existing band.

There was a post yesterday in the "Official whwy you don't need HDMI 1.3" sticky thread that cited studies that we can't see Deep Color anyway - it's a red herring.

Hold on - the Deep refers to bit depth, not the colors themselves.

It doesn't give any new colors, just more gradations of the colors we already have.
Correct me if I'm wrong, but colors other than the primaries are combinations of those primaries. More gradations = more colors.

It's analogous to audio oversampling, which doesn't increase the freq band, but resolution in the existing band.
Not really. More samples taken, and for that matter, longer word length, only gets the final reconstituted analog signal closer to the original sound. It can't get any better. Whereas, if a camera captures an image in Deep Color and everything in between supports it, then theoretically the picture we see will be better.

There was a post yesterday in the "Official whwy you don't need HDMI 1.3" sticky thread that cited studies that we can't see Deep Color anyway - it's a red herring.
I'd like to see some split screen tests of the two and know if trained observers can see the difference. It's gotta be an extremely subtle difference.

Good thoughts Noah. A problem with this theoretical improvement is the name for marketing purposes. Its not "more accurate colors', it is DEEP colors. Wait till you see how they will market the next version.

When they get all the licensing money they can for 1.3, they will develop a new version to maintain or re-stimulate the revenue flow.

Hold on - the Deep refers to bit depth, not the colors themselves.

It doesn't give any new colors, just more gradations of the colors we already
Sorry, i was confused by the Broader color space, also in 1.3 specs:

Next-generation “xvYCC” color space supports 1.8 times as many colors as existing HDTV signals

There was something about that in the handout i got as well. Gave it to my dealer, so i cannot check right now.

Honey. Come look at my new projector. It almost has twice as many colors as the zillions the old one had. No, I'm not high.

"Correct me if I'm wrong, but colors other than the primaries are combinations of those primaries. More gradations = more colors."

Sure, but if they're so close to what's already there that it makes no perceptible, who cares?

The problem is that Deep Color sounds like it means something *beyond* what we see now, like more intense/saturated whatever, but it's only in between the colors that are already there.

I fell for it too, until I read that it referred to bit depth.

"Correct me if I'm wrong, but colors other than the primaries are combinations of those primaries. More gradations = more colors."

Sure, but if they're so close to what's already there that it makes no perceptible, who cares?
Agreed, and there's the rub. But there are more colors.

The problem is that Deep Color sounds like it means something *beyond* what we see now, like more intense/saturated whatever, but it's only in between the colors that are already there.

I fell for it too, until I read that it referred to bit depth.
But DEEPER bit depth means the primaries can be sliced finer yielding more colors. The name DEEPER COLOR is derived honestly. But the perception of the masses may be that the colors are somehow more intense/saturated. So, it's a happy - for the floggers - coincidence of truth and marketing hoohah.

Sorry, i was confused by the Broader color space, also in 1.3 specs:

Next-generation “xvYCC” color space supports 1.8 times as many colors as existing HDTV signals

There was something about that in the handout i got as well. Gave it to my dealer, so i cannot check right now.
Deeper bit depth = more colors = broader color space. Less likely that any given color will be out of gamut and have to be represented by a color next to it instead of being displayed exactly.

But will we see this??? WE need tests!

Bulldogger,

I looked everywhere for that quote you offered. I could not find it on the Epson website or in their official news release.

Do you have a link?

thanks
It's in the link provided on post 2342. If you go to the www.hdmi.org , you will see that the Epson projector is actually on some sort of tour showing off deep color. It's the first projector capable which is why it is on the tour. Deep color will be common starting with television sets this year.“During the first half of 2007 we expect to see HDTVs with HDMI 1.3 functionality, allowing them to display Deep Color™TM content. Note though that no ones seems to be supporting the full spec. The link I provide is pretty explict that the Epson displays deep color . You'll have to search it out on the HDMI site because it's dead issue for me. I do not understand why it would seem to be so hard to believe that Epson could have gotten it out a few month before the television sets hit the market? Is that really that amazing or hard to believe? . Deep color is an issue that will concern me when I can get a source material other than video games. This quote is from an Epson spoke person, "We are very excited to deliver the world's first front projector with HDMI 1.3-capable display," said Aaron Marinari, senior product manager, Epson America. "We believe our customers will literally be stunned when they see the amazing Deep Color image quality the Epson PowerLite Pro Cinema 1080 can render using its 12-bit, 1080p technology.

To understand the 'importance' of deep color just look at what happens with a linear grayscale across the screen.

With 8 bits color there are only 256 gradients of gray across a 1080 vertical resolution possible.

Assuming a accurate tracking display where each grey level for the RGB components are equal.

So their will be horizontal banding as there are 4 lines for each possible gray level displayed.
Vertical banding will be likewise but the higher horizontal resoluten gives about 7 vertical lines per gray level.


Higher bit levels are required to keep the color resolution on par with the screen resolution.

Hello again,

Little update about the serial mass production sample we had: Everything exactly as in the pre-production, convergence and factory- D65-precalibration was actually even better.

Contrast and lumens were the same...

Regards,
Ekkehart, Cine4Home

Apart from Deep Color support HDMI 1.3 also has other improvements that can be helpful.

For example:
The 1.3 chipsets support signal eq across the digital hdmi connection.
This means that longer cable runs can be used with less signal degradation.

Little update about the serial mass production sample we had: Everything exactly as in the pre-production, convergence and factory- D65-precalibration was actually even better.

Contrast and lumens were the same...:D

Hello again,

Little update about the serial mass production sample we had: Everything exactly as in the pre-production, convergence and factory- D65-precalibration was actually even better.

Contrast and lumens were the same...

Regards,
Ekkehart, Cine4Home
Great, any information about the RS1 is welcomed. Otherwise this is going to turn into a deep color thread. I know Jason most likely watched the Superbowl on his new projector?!:D

Hello again,

Little update about the serial mass production sample we had: Everything exactly as in the pre-production, convergence and factory- D65-precalibration was actually even better.

Contrast and lumens were the same...

Regards,
Ekkehart, Cine4Home


Thanks for the update! That is great news :) Look forward to your report.

Hello again,

Little update about the serial mass production sample we had: Everything exactly as in the pre-production, convergence and factory- D65-precalibration was actually even better.

Contrast and lumens were the same...

Regards,
Ekkehart, Cine4Home

Thanks Ekkehart!

For those of us shelf mounting and needing a clean way to secure it to the shelf:

Go to home depot or Lowes and get a round dowel rod(they come in several different diameters and lengths) then cut it to the lengths you want to space the RS-1 off the shelf. Then drill a hole for the bolt to pass through. Finally paint them black to match the RS-1. This should look a lot cleaner looking than using stacks of washers.

-Ken

To understand the 'importance' of deep color just look at what happens with a linear grayscale across the screen.

With 8 bits color there are only 256 gradients of gray across a 1080 vertical resolution possible.

Assuming a accurate tracking display where each grey level for the RGB components are equal.

So their will be horizontal banding as there are 4 lines for each possible gray level displayed.
Vertical banding will be likewise but the higher horizontal resoluten gives about 7 vertical lines per gray level.

Higher bit levels are required to keep the color resolution on par with the screen resolution.

That's all well and good, but DVD, HD DVD, and Blu-ray are all permanently limited to 8-bit color depth. None of these formats support "Deep Color", regardless of whether an HDMI connection could theoretically carry such a signal if it ever existed in practical application.

For those of us shelf mounting and needing a clean way to secure it to the shelf:

Go to home depot or Lowes and get a round dowel rod(they come in several different diameters and lengths) then cut it to the lengths you want to space the RS-1 off the shelf. Then drill a hole for the bolt to pass through. Finally paint them black to match the RS-1. This should look a lot cleaner looking than using stacks of washers.

-Ken
Spacers made of metal are available and would be more durable and stable than home made wooden ones.

That's all well and good, but DVD, HD DVD, and Blu-ray are all permanently limited to 8-bit color depth. None of these formats support "Deep Color", regardless of whether an HDMI connection could theoretically carry such a signal if it ever existed in practical application.

That's a limitation for current HD media codecs. Should other applications 'suffer' *because of this limited 8 bit color spec?

But is that limitation true for HD broadcast applications?
VideoCam support? Record and display your own video recordings with DeepColor.
External video scaler output?
Game output rendering?


* 'Suffer' because how percieveable the improvement actually is remains to be seen
Ironically black & white film presentation is more likely to improve with deepcolor than colorfilm is. For horizontal pixel resolution to be in par with gray scale resolution 11 bit is required (2048 gray steps for 1920 pixels)

Spacers made of metal are available and would be more durable and stable than home made wooden ones.

Where can you get ready made metal spacers?

For the diy guys...the wood dowels should be at least as stable, if not more so, than stacked washers which was mentioned a couple pages back. For extra stability just get a larger diameter dowel like maybe 2" and then drill your hole off center so the edge of the dowel is flush with the edge of the pj if need be. The nice thing with wood dowels is they are relatively cheap, easy to work with, and readily available at your local home center.

But if you can find one piece metal sleeves/spacers then that would be the best option for sure.

Where can you get ready made metal spacers?
Probably the same place one would find wooden dowels - Home Depot or Lowes. :)

edit: perhaps not, but here (http://www.fastenersuperstore.com/stores/superstore/standoffs.cfm?gclid=CJmv0K_Kl4oCFR3qgAodyVutew) is what I'm referring to.

That's all well and good, but DVD, HD DVD, and Blu-ray are all permanently limited to 8-bit color depth. None of these formats support "Deep Color", regardless of whether an HDMI connection could theoretically carry such a signal if it ever existed in practical application.
Oh gosh, I think I see a market for color upscaling. I'm sure Yves is all over this. :D

"Go to home depot or Lowes and get a round dowel rod(they come in several different diameters and lengths) then cut it to the lengths you want to space the RS-1 off the shelf. Then drill a hole for the bolt to pass through. Finally paint them black to match the RS-1. This should look a lot cleaner looking than using stacks of washers."

There is no need for any sort of spacer or foot at all. People are making this far more complicated then it needs to be. Must be the boredom waiting for the pre-orders. ;)

Take the feet out of the JVC.

Buy long bolts of appropriate thread and a washer and nut to match the bolts.

Put the bolt up through holes in the shelf and put the washer then nut on the bolt.

Screw the bolts into the projector. Adjust the projectors height as needed by how much of the bolt you thread into the projector.

Once you get it at the height you want tighten the washer down against the shelf.

Done. The projector will be firmly attached at whatever height is needed without having to fool around with spacers/dowels...etc...etc.

Shawn

Spacers made of metal are available and would be more durable and stable than home made wooden ones.

We're talking about supporting a 26 pound projector. I think the wooded ones will work just fine and can easily be cut to the height that you want and painted or stained to match a shelf. I like the wooden dowel idea. :)

We're talking about supporting a 26 pound projector. I think the wooded ones will work just fine and can easily be cut to the height that you want and painted or stained to match a shelf. I like the wooden dowel idea. :)
OK. :)

"Go to home depot or Lowes and get a round dowel rod(they come in several different diameters and lengths) then cut it to the lengths you want to space the RS-1 off the shelf. Then drill a hole for the bolt to pass through. Finally paint them black to match the RS-1. This should look a lot cleaner looking than using stacks of washers."

There is no need for any sort of spacer or foot at all. People are making this far more complicated then it needs to be. Must be the boredom waiting for the pre-orders. ;)

Take the feet out of the JVC.

Buy long bolts of appropriate thread and a washer and nut to match the bolts.

Put the bolt up through holes in the shelf and put the washer then nut on the bolt.

Screw the bolts into the projector. Adjust the projectors height as needed by how much of the bolt you thread into the projector.

Once you get it at the height you want tighten the washer down against the shelf.

Done. The projector will be firmly attached at whatever height is needed without having to fool around with spacers/dowels...etc...etc.

Shawn

That is another way and you absolutely have to have some space in between the projector and the shelf but, from an estetics point of view the wooded dowel idea looks better than seeing the threaded bolt and nut underneath the projector.

Go to home depot or Lowes and get a round dowel rod (they come in several different diameters and lengths) then cut it to the lengths you want to space the RS-1 off the shelf.

After I posted about using washers, I realized that the height involved is over 3/4". With that height I would either just use screws and nuts to hold the position as sfogg mentioned, or get small metal tubing and cut it to size for a cleaner appearance. Dowels (get the hardwood ones) would work fine as well. It all depends on how you want it to look.

OK. :)

You could even buy ones that look like wooded columns and drill a clearance hole through them. :cool: :)

"but, from an estetics point of view the wooded dowel idea looks better than seeing the threaded bolt and nut underneath the projector."

Sure, but if one doesn't cut their dowels properly (or the shelf isn't level) getting the projector level will be a PITA with spacers. With the bolts it is very easy to adjust as needed.

If you are worried about esthetics I'd just go get (4) 35mm film canisters and poke a hole in the end for the bolt to pass through. That would cover up the bolt/nut but still leave all the adjustability compared to trying to do it with load supporting spacers. But really, we are talking less than an inch of height and if you just did this at the rear they would be pretty well hidden anyway due to the overhang of the projector.

Shawn

"but, from an estetics point of view the wooded dowel idea looks better than seeing the threaded bolt and nut underneath the projector."

Sure, but if one doesn't cut their dowels properly (or the shelf isn't level) getting the projector level will be a PITA with spacers. With the bolts it is very easy to adjust as needed.

If you are worried about esthetics I'd just go get (4) 35mm film canisters and poke a hole in the end for the bolt to pass through. That would cover up the bolt/nut but still leave all the adjustability compared to trying to do it with load supporting spacers. But really, we are talking less than an inch of height and if you just did this at the rear they would be pretty well hidden anyway due to the overhang of the projector.

Shawn

I don't think it will be that hard to cut them straight if you have the proper equipment. I wouldn't do it with a hack saw :) but, yes, there are dozens of ideas and combinations that will work and you could mount the projector off the shelf more than 3/4" if you really wanted to.

You could even buy ones that look like wooded columns and drill a clearance hole through them. :cool: :)
Doric, perhaps?

"but, from an estetics point of view the wooded dowel idea looks better than seeing the threaded bolt and nut underneath the projector."

Sure, but if one doesn't cut their dowels properly (or the shelf isn't level) getting the projector level will be a PITA with spacers. With the bolts it is very easy to adjust as needed.

If you are worried about esthetics I'd just go get (4) 35mm film canisters and poke a hole in the end for the bolt to pass through. That would cover up the bolt/nut but still leave all the adjustability compared to trying to do it with load supporting spacers. But really, we are talking less than an inch of height and if you just did this at the rear they would be pretty well hidden anyway due to the overhang of the projector.

Shawn
I see we've divided into threaded rod and spacer camps. :)

:D


VC

I take it you will be collecting your HD1 over the next couple of days. :D I can't make collection until Wednesday. :(

Dazzer

I'm confused.... Are you guys telling me the projector does not come with feet that give it the height it needs for proper ventilation when placed on those feet?!?

I just got back from a run to lowes to get some things to fab up a vent for my equipment closet. I stopped in the hobby wood section to check out the dowels. They have a 1.25" diameter dowl thats 3' or 4' long for less than $7. They use a dense hard wood to make these dowels and since it's not likely anyone will need a spacer more than a few inches long these should be more than strong enough to support the pj.

If you do want to go with a larger diameter dowel I saw some up to 2" on the net or lowes sales wood furniture legs that could be cut down.

I think it's great that everyone has creative ideas on how to do this...no right or wrong ways really. :) Just have fun, be creative, and most importantly BE SAFE. ;)

I'm confused.... Are you guys telling me the projector does not come with feet that give it the height it needs for proper ventilation when placed on those feet?!?

Yes it comes with adjustable feet...we're discussing ways to safely fasten it down to a shelf.

How about on the feet in front, and on bolts in the back (where you won't see them as much).

According to a previous report by Ekkehart that an RS1 at maximum throw will lose 27% in brightness. On my current projector the Dist/Width factor is 2.1 which means I would lose considerable brightness with my current setup. There is no possible way for me to move my projector closer to the screen. ISCO makes a 1.25 telescopic converter for projectors. This would give a D/W factor of about 1.68 which would reduce my lumen loss considerably while maintaining a very nice contrast factor.
Does anyone know whether or not the ISCO lens can be used with the RS1?

Thanks - Tony

RS-1 mount. What mount should be used with this projector? I have a cheif shift bracket and mount being used on my Ruby can get the same type of mount for the RS-1?

Hello again,

Little update about the serial mass production sample we had: Everything exactly as in the pre-production, convergence and factory- D65-precalibration was actually even better.

Contrast and lumens were the same...

Regards,
Ekkehart, Cine4Home

Great! Thanks for the update. My theater is eagerly awaiting its new tenant! :cool:

If the attachment to the shelf is just to prevent accidental movement, not theft prevention or severe earthquake retention, self-adhesive Velcro attached to the feet and shelf would be about all that is needed. Quick, simple, cheap and secure, what else is needed?

If the attachment to the shelf is just to prevent accidental movement, not theft prevention or severe earthquake retention, self-adhesive Velcro attached to the feet and shelf would be about all that is needed. Quick, simple, cheap and secure, what else is needed?

I think some might be planning an inverted shelf mount also.

RS-1 mount. What mount should be used with this projector? I have a cheif shift bracket and mount being used on my Ruby can get the same type of mount for the RS-1?

Yes indeed. Assuming you have the RPA or RPM mount you just need to purchase the SLB-184.

Yes it comes with adjustable feet...we're discussing ways to safely fasten it down to a shelf.

I use a combination bungie cords, dowels and turnbuckles in an under-hung arrangement. Homely but effective. Stable, adjustable, secure.

What I am a bit confused by is the dimensions that are listed. Every spec page I have seen for the RS1/HD1 has the dimensions listed as

H=172.5mm
W=455mm
D=418.5mm

If you convert these measurements to inches you get

H=6.79"
W=17.92"
D=16.47"

But according to pro.jvc.com the dimensions are the same for mm, but for inches they are listing

H=7.25"
W=18" (close enough to above)
D=17 9/16"

I would assume the height and depth in inches are typos? Is the height and depth 6.79" and 16.47" or 7.25" and 17 9/16"?

Not a big difference either way, but for my instalation I need to know the exact height and depth.

Anybody know?

Little update about the serial mass production sample we had: Everything exactly as in the pre-production, convergence and factory- D65-precalibration was actually even better.

Contrast and lumens were the same...

Great news... It's nice to see that they've got production nailed down and are shipping nicely calibrated units. :D

Great news... It's nice to see that they've got production nailed down and are shipping nicely calibrated units. :D

Yes now all we have to do is get them shipped HERE...

What I am a bit confused by is the dimensions that are listed. Every spec page I have seen for the RS1/HD1 has the dimensions listed as

H=172.5mm
W=455mm
D=418.5mm

If you convert these measurements to inches you get

H=6.79"
W=17.92"
D=16.47"

But according to pro.jvc.com the dimensions are the same for mm, but for inches they are listing

H=7.25"
W=18" (close enough to above)
D=17 9/16"

I would assume the height and depth in inches are typos? Is the height and depth 6.79" and 16.47" or 7.25" and 17 9/16"?

Not a big difference either way, but for my instalation I need to know the exact height and depth.

Anybody know?


Just got confirmation from one of the UK guys who just got his HD1. The height and depth are infact 6.79" and 16.47" for anyone who is curious.

"Spacers made of metal are available and would be more durable and stable than home made wooden ones."

I'd go with Shawn's idea and hide with plastic pipe (cheapest and easiest to cut.

In any event, instability of a few inches of any material in direct compression is insignificant compared to the cantilevered shelf mount itself.

"Spacers made of metal are available and would be more durable and stable than home made wooden ones."

I'd go with Shawn's idea and hide with plastic pipe (cheapest and easiest to cut.

In any event, instability of a few inches of any material in direct compression is insignificant compared to the cantilevered shelf mount itself.
My concern would be that imprecise - or ANY - drilling could weaken the wood grain and make it more likely to break. C'mon, folks, we're talking about mounting a +$5k piece of gear and trying to cheap out on the hardware makes no sense at all (to me).

My guess it isn't about a cheap mount but to rig the device as fast as possible to the ceiling.

My guess it isn't about a cheap mount but to rig the device as fast as possible to the ceiling.
Fast. Cheap. Solid. Pick two. ;)

http://www.avforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=470757

nice...now everybody just wants to know "when?"

Thanks for the heads up Jason. I'm looking forward to UrbanT's comments after he spends some time with his HD1.

http://www.avforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=470757


This is getting serious now. :)

Do we have any guesstimate on when they will land on AVS's loading dock?

-tony

Could be a little while yet. Check the RS1 Release Date thread.

Sorry if this has already been answered. Does the VXP chip on this projector properly inverse telecine 1080i60 -from HDA1?
The chip is supposed to be the same used in Crystalio II so it should (the chip itself does have 3:2 Pulldown Removal), but I searched and found nothing here.

If it doesn't (as I read in the British forum), would it be fixed with a firmware update?

Thanks.

Does the VXP chip on this projector properly inverse telecine 1080i60 -from HDA1?
The chip is supposed to be the same used in Crystalio II so it should (the chip itself does have 3:2 Pulldown Removal), but I searched and found nothing here.

If it doesn't (as I read in the British forum), would it be fixed with a firmware update?It won't remove 3:2 cadence judder, if that's what you mean. i.e. 1080i60 gets processed to 1080p60 and displayed at 120Hz. I would love it to process 480i60 and 1080i60 to 1080p48 and display it at 96Hz, but according to the Chief Designer (who I met last month) this is an unlikely firmware update for the HD1.

However, if enough people ask for it (as they are for vertical stretch), then who knows. This would be the icing on the cake for me...

For the love of glorious 2.35:1 glory...Please, Please, Please add vertical stretch...it's the only thing holding me back :(

For the love of glorious 2.35:1 glory...Please, Please, Please add vertical stretch...it's the only thing holding me back :(

It's certainly not gonna be added this late in the game (machines are in production).

Could you do the vertical stretch with an HTPC?

[flamesut]
Dear JVC:

Please please add bias gain controls (before CIH). It isn't holding me back, but it sure would be protecting my investment.

Forget that... just ship them to the US already!

Kind Regards,
an AVS pre-buy maniac
[\flamesuit]

Hi
I have just picked up my HD-1 here in the UK and I have checked out the feet situation regarding bolting to a shelf. All you need is a longer M5 bolt to do this because you can screw the feet off and at the bottom of the feet there is a small pad which can be pulled off easily. Underneath the pad is the head of the bolt which can be unscrewed and replaced with the longer one taking into account the thickness of your platform. I hope this helps you as this is what I will be doing later.

so there is a bolt within the feet that can be replaced?

Yes

Dessie, Thanks much for the info! To make sure I really understand, let me re-state what you said in my own words: one unscrews the feet, removes a simple pad that covers the head of the screw, and then one can put a longer M5 screw up through the shelf and STRAIGHT THROUGH THE ORIGINAL FEET into the pj. So the original feet serve as the 'spacers' that everyone has been discussing. Is this correct? Sweet. Tx, Bill

We should start an RS1 feet/mounting options thread :)

Dessie, Thanks much for the info! To make sure I really understand, let me re-state what you said in my own words: one unscrews the feet, removes a simple pad that covers the head of the screw, and then one can put a longer M5 screw up through the shelf and STRAIGHT THROUGH THE ORIGINAL FEET into the pj. So the original feet serve as the 'spacers' that everyone has been discussing. Is this correct? Sweet. Tx, Bill

Yep :)

It's certainly not gonna be added this late in the game (machines are in production).

I don't think he was referring to a change to what is shipping, but rather voting for a firmware upgrade that would include this feature.

paul

We should start an RS1 feet/mounting options thread :)

I agree that this is a trivial issue compared to PQ issues, but it is imp in how some of us are going to mount our RS1s. And I'm very happy to now KNOW!

so there is a bolt within the feet that can be replaced?

Darn. I was looking forward to reading more spacer ideas to kill the time while we wait for the RS1s to arrive. :D

Darn. I was looking forward to reading more spacer ideas to kill the time while we wait for the RS1s to arrive. :D
Spacers are the Final Frontier. :)

Hi
I have just picked up my HD-1 here in the UK and I have checked out the feet situation regarding bolting to a shelf. All you need is a longer M5 bolt to do this because you can screw the feet off and at the bottom of the feet there is a small pad which can be pulled off easily. Underneath the pad is the head of the bolt which can be unscrewed and replaced with the longer one taking into account the thickness of your platform. I hope this helps you as this is what I will be doing later.

Cool! This makes it easy, as I need to mount to a shelf as well. Thanks for the info!

Cool! This makes it easy, as I need to mount to a shelf as well. Thanks for the info!

This is all covered on page 47 of the User's Manual for the RS1.

Darn. I was looking forward to reading more spacer ideas to kill the time while we wait for the RS1s to arrive. :DA topic that might be relevant while waiting for the RS1 would be sourcing the HDMI cables for full 1080p, with no noise. Something like the VizionWare Hi-Wirez here (http://vizionware.com/products/hiwirez.php)

I agree that this is a trivial issue compared to PQ issues, but it is imp in how some of us are going to mount our RS1s. And I'm very happy to now KNOW!


Miller - I'm just poking fun. I may use the feet mounting option myself but not sure right now. My current thinking is to have a shelf hanging from my drop ceiling by 4 rods. The shelf would be 2x2 ft. I would put a 1" tall lip around the perimeter of the shelf to keep the RS1 from sliding off if there's an earthquake ;) . I'm thinking of doing this in black plexiglass. I will have to wait on the feet mounting option. On one hand it locks the RS1 in place and provides security. On the other hand I will lose easy adjustment if locked in place. So many decisions...

Kraig, I did detect your jest; good to keep things light! And your 'trapeze' solution also sounds neat!

If people would like some diversion while waiting for the RS1's to arrive, I would appreciate knowing what VIEWING DISTANCE you guys will be from your screens. Though I know there are wide ranges in individual preferences, knowing what the 'old hands' prefer would be useful.

So what Viewing Distance/Screen Width ratios are being planned for with the RS1?

I'm at 16' for the projector and about 15' viewing distance.

Miller - I see your in Berkeley... we'll have to compare notes. I'm in Oakland.

Kraig, I did detect your jest; good to keep things light! And your 'trapeze' solution also sounds neat!

If people would like some diversion while waiting for the RS1's to arrive, I would appreciate knowing what VIEWING DISTANCE you guys will be from your screens. Though I know there are wide ranges in individual preferences, knowing what the 'old hands' prefer would be useful.

So what Viewing Distance/Screen Width ratios are being planned for with the RS1?

I am about 1.7-1.8 screen widths, but that is due to room restrictions. If I could go bigger, I would no doubt. Dont get me wrong, I love my setup, but I would definately go a bit bigger if possible.

I'm at 16' for the projector and about 15' viewing distance.

Miller - I see your in Berkeley... we'll have to compare notes. I'm in Oakland.

By all means. PM me and I'll give you my direct email address.

And re the distance, what is relevant is the RATIO of your viewing distance (15') to the width of your screen.

I am about 1.7-1.8 screen widths, but that is due to room restrictions. If I could go bigger, I would no doubt. Dont get me wrong, I love my setup, but I would definately go a bit bigger if possible.

Thanks much. I'm COMTEMPLATING a ratio of ~ 1.3, but I'm going to show the RS1 on a sheet for a week or so to see if this might be to close. Anybody view, or plan to view, this close?

I run CH and will be at 1x on 2.35 material.

I previously ran an AE900 and a JVC G10 before it at that ratio and it was fine. On the AE900 on text every once in awhile I could see SDE. I expect the RS-1 will be even better in that regard.

Shawn

I will be at 1.5 widths from my 110" diagonal high power. If the image is good enough, I may move the couch forward. If it isn't, I may mask the screen down.

Hmmm...posts on the UKforum indicate LCOS projectors can suffer burn in. I had no idea and don't remember seeing that discussed in these forums. Is this true? Anyone had problems with LCOS or SXRD?

By all means. PM me and I'll give you my direct email address.

And re the distance, what is relevant is the RATIO of your viewing distance (15') to the width of your screen.
I'm at 2 screen widths to my 100" diagonal 16x9 screen.

Hmmm...posts on the UKforum indicate LCOS projectors can suffer burn in. I had no idea and don't remember seeing that discussed in these forums. Is this true? Anyone had problems with LCOS or SXRD?
This has been discussed in the past at length and dispelled. Sure there is burn in for the lamp, you wouldn't be well advised to calibrate until your lamp has settled in but unless something has changed LCOS/SXRD panels don't suffer burn in and haven't for years.

I too saw the "burn-in" comment and was worried for a minute.

:)

I think it should be fine.

there is a remarkable price difference between the panasonic PT-AE1000 and the RS1

IS there a remarkable pq difference as well? Of course there is difference in better blacks and details in shadows, but it is hard to describe these differences from studying texts from reviews alone, which do not compare the two. Did someone(s) from this thread see both pjs?

there is a remarkable price difference between the panasonic PT-AE1000 and the RS1

IS there a remarkable pq difference as well? Of course there is difference in better blacks and details in shadows, but it is hard to describe these differences from studying texts from reviews alone, which do not compare the two. Did someone(s) from this thread see both pjs?
Not many people on this thread have seen the RS1/HD1 because it's not shipping yet. At least not to the US.

One thig that *really* impresses me is that it achieves its black level and contrast WITHOUT an iris.

"Hmmm...posts on the UKforum indicate LCOS projectors can suffer burn in."

It's a temporary image retention.

12.5' back from a 100" diagonal 16:9 screen. Projector mount should put the lens at just over 10'

I thought I had read several places that there has never been any evidence of LCOS burn-in.

D-ILA "suffers" if any at all from maybe a "mark in", however over prolonged HD1 demos we run in Athens recently we noticed no such issues to be honest.
Even IF such "mark in" occurs, they disappear over short period of time anyway

I too saw the "burn-in" comment and was worried for a minute.

:)

I think it should be fine.

Assuming the technology is quite similar in nature to that used in the Ruby, I don't think it will be a problem at all. I never noticed any issues like this with my Ruby nor have I heard it even mentioned by other Ruby/Pearl owners.

A topic that might be relevant while waiting for the RS1 would be sourcing the HDMI cables for full 1080p, with no noise. Something like the VizionWare Hi-Wirez here (http://vizionware.com/products/hiwirez.php)

or, of course, you could use the perfectly good (and reasonably priced) monoprice.com cables for full 1080p with no noise. That would involve saving money, however. :D

paul

Thanks much. I'm COMTEMPLATING a ratio of ~ 1.3, but I'm going to show the RS1 on a sheet for a week or so to see if this might be to close. Anybody view, or plan to view, this close?

I will be at 1.2 ... but I'm weird, and like to sit in the 5th row of the theater. :eek:

paul

or, of course, you could use the perfectly good (and reasonably priced) monoprice.com cables for full 1080p with no noise. That would involve saving money, however. :D

paul
If it works, go for it.

If it works, go for it.

have, did, does :) What I would like is to hear from someone for whom a low-priced (but quality) cable didn't work, but one of these (IMHO *mostly* snake-oil-based) more expensive cables *did*.

I'm not averse to paying for quality ... I just want to get my money's worth.

paul

have, did, does :) What I would like is to hear from someone for whom a low-priced (but quality) cable didn't work, but one of these (IMHO *mostly* snake-oil-based) more expensive cables *did*.

I'm not averse to paying for quality ... I just want to get my money's worth.

paulI've seen numerous instances where "white speckles" appear in the transmission of 1080p signals, even expensive M cables. 720p and 1080i are not an issue, plenty if bandwidth in the cables. The longer the run, the more critical the cable.

"I picked up my HD1 this afternoon. There's good news, not-so-good news and bad news...

Good news

Convergence: I don't have a source of 1080p test images, so I can't do a detailed analysis of convergence over the screen. I'll move the main projector menu around the screen later tonight and report back. I needed one horizontal pixel of red shift, but this brings convergence easily below half-a-pixel off.

So far, I haven't been able to view in terribly blacked out conditions, but HD feeds (e.g. Serenity on HD DVD, BBC HD channel) look stunning. The projector is easily as good as I remember it at the launch event.

Blacks really are unbelievable and the image is oh so punchy.

I didn't find it overly bright on my 83" screen, but I think I am used to a bright image. My opinion may change when the room is completely blacked out. Certainly the HD DVD logo in the bottom right corner of the screen was dazzing when discs were loading and the rest of the screen (and room) was dark.

Not-so-good news

As mentioned by UrbanT, it's too loud in Normal (low-lamp) mode, particularly for a small enclosed theatre. It is considerably louder than my AE900. I'm going to have to look at some kind of hush-box.

Bad news

I think that the HD1 doesn't correctly handle 480i/576i over HDMI with YCbCr 4:4:4 and RGB 4:4:4 colour-spaces. Aaaaaarrrrgggg!!!

The feed from my Oppo HD970 looks completely awful and I think it's the chroma. Basically, when scaled by the HD1 all images come through with massive stair-stepping and vertical pixel bands.

I do not see this on either YCbCr or RGB when the Oppo is fed over HDMI into my AE900, so I think the fault is probably with the HD1. I did check both Oppo HDMI output and HD1 HDMI input settings. The Oppo is unusual in outputting YCbCr 4:4:4, but that's no excuse. I hope that this can be remedied with a firmware fix ASAP if this is the case.

I suspect that the Arcam used on launch night outputs 480i/576i YCbCr 4:2:2 and this is handled correctly.

There is also something else that I spotted - a small varying and non-permanent (digital) gradation in the blue colour of the background.... I don't think this is a big deal, but I'm going to investigate more. I know that D-ILA devices do "imprint" easily (so screen-savers are a good idea) and I suspect that this is what I'm seeing. We know that the HD1 panel has a digital backplane.

Wow! Did I feel awful when I turned on the Oppo for the first time. Feeling better now... :nervous wreck:"

Looks like it's louder than we have been lead to believe by the pre-production reports.

When you say loud how many DB? Can you measure it?

I've seen numerous instances where "white speckles" appear in the transmission of 1080p signals, even expensive M cables. 720p and 1080i are not an issue, plenty if bandwidth in the cables. The longer the run, the more critical the cable.

1080p24 of course uses less bandwidth than 1080i.

I'm not suprised you see white speckles in expensive M cables. Try some cheap cables instead. I think the last thing they worry about with those expensive cables is actually making the cable work properly. Much more effort goes into making it look good, packaging, marketing, etc. The hardest part must be coming up with all those pseudo-scientific terms to make it sound like their cable can actually improve audio or video quality :)

--
Steve

"As mentioned by UrbanT, it's too loud in Normal (low-lamp) mode, particularly for a small enclosed theatre. It is considerably louder than my AE900. I'm going to have to look at some kind of hush-box."

AE900 in high or low lamp mode and inverted mode or not?

Thanks,

Shawn

1080p24 of course uses less bandwidth than 1080i.

I'm not suprised you see white speckles in expensive M cables. Try some cheap cables instead. I think the last thing they worry about with those expensive cables is actually making the cable work properly. Much more effort goes into making it look good, packaging, marketing, etc. The hardest part must be coming up with all those pseudo-scientific terms to make it sound like their cable can actually improve audio or video quality :)

--
Steve

I'm with Steve. I have a 35ft monoprice, and feeding it 1080p60 works perfectly.

Not-so-good news

As mentioned by UrbanT, it's too loud in Normal (low-lamp) mode, particularly for a small enclosed theatre. It is considerably louder than my AE900. I'm going to have to look at some kind of hush-box.

This is kind of surprising. I spent some time with the RS1 at the CES last month, and I had to get my ear within about a foot of the exhaust port to hear anything. (Of course these are 66 yr old ears!) And I've heard some reports that the production version of the RS1 was quieter than the pre-production model at CES. At least I'm hoping that this is the situation.

This is kind of surprising. I spent some time with the RS1 at the CES last month, and I had to get my ear within about a foot of the exhaust port to hear anything. (Of course these are 66 yr old ears!) And I've heard some reports that the production version of the RS1 was quieter than the pre-production model at CES. At least I'm hoping that this is the situation.

I am curious to read the other reports in the next few days/weeks about this to try and get a feel for the general consensous about fan noise. One report does not worry me, but if multiple people have this same feeling, then this would be a negative.

I was going to order the HD1 in Europe tomorrow, but I must say the talk about noise fan is making me wait instead.

Perfect picture aside. If its louder than the PT900 in normal mode, then I'll have to wait for a decent hushbox setup to come along.

This is kind of surprising. I spent some time with the RS1 at the CES last month, and I had to get my ear within about a foot of the exhaust port to hear anything. (Of course these are 66 yr old ears!) And I've heard some reports that the production version of the RS1 was quieter than the pre-production model at CES. At least I'm hoping that this is the situation.
UrbanT reported on the UK forum that his head is only 18" from the front of the projector. He also reported that it is a low pitched sound, not at all annoying. I'm not going to worry about this yet.

UrbanT reported on the UK forum that his head is only 18" from the front of the projector. He also reported that it is a low pitched sound, not at all annoying. I'm not going to worry about this yet.

On top of that, he also reported that when the volume is above -23 (he usually listens between -10 and -14) that he cant hear the fan anymore. If you look at his theater pictures, his head is literally 18" from the projector, and on top of that, his HT is tiny. If fan noise is not an issue in this theater, it wont be in most others either I would not think.

The noise level of the RS1 is a potential showstopper for me. I'll be eagerly waiting more reviews about it. Having done several different hushboxes for the various different projectors I've had I vowed that after installing my Ruby in 15 minutes (mount and cables were already installed) I would never do another hushbox. The manual of the RS1 calls for 8" of clearance for intake and exhaust. This makes for a tricky RS1 hushbox...

there is a remarkable price difference between the panasonic PT-AE1000 and the RS1

IS there a remarkable pq difference as well? Of course there is difference in better blacks and details in shadows, but it is hard to describe these differences from studying texts from reviews alone, which do not compare the two. Did someone(s) from this thread see both pjs?


DITTO! Anyone out there who can actually compare these two from experience? Obviously the RS1 is a better projector, but how much better?

Hard to know what the RS1 fan noise level will actually be like until it's installed in your own enviroment. My Panny 700 was extremely loud (it has 4 fan speeds) when I first installed it. Then switching to low bulb - and shelf mounting (vs. inverting) lowered the fan to a very reasonable level. I'm kinda use to that level now. Be hard to go louder.

However I've seen 4 RS1's (one at EHXpo and 3 at CES). I was alone w/ the RS1 CES unit in the hotel room - and believe me it seemed plenty quiet for me. :)

So I still believe we'll be OK re: noise level. Maybe the HD1 has a higher speed fan for some reason. :eek:

I was alone w/ the RS1 CES unit in the hotel room - and believe me it seemed plenty quiet for me. :)


Same here. I had them turn the sound system off and I had to get pretty close to the RS1 to hear it.

Same here. I had them turn the sound system off and I had to get pretty close to the RS1 to hear it.DITTO

Hang on. You were alone with the projector and it was still there afterwards?!?!?!

I was alone w/ the RS1 CES unit in the hotel room

I was alone w/ the RS1 CES unit in the hotel room - and believe me she seemed plenty quiet for me. :)



Dude, too much info!!!

On Monday I spent time with a "production " model RS-1 and I thought it was quieter then the one(s) at CES. This was on a table and again had to bend over(watch that...) to hear it.

I have a Infocus 7200(first generation) that I am replacing so this should be almost silent compared to that model......

The funny thing is at the JVC suite the pj in the room seems to spew heat from the front exhaust more then the one I saw Monday.

Larry

Dude, too much info!!!


Dam you beat me to the punch... Oh well guess I'll go get ready to polish my light cannon.

Do you suppose JVC US is modifying the machines here in the US by adding a small module to the mother board which picks up the fan noise thru a small microphone, phase inverts it, amplifiies it to the measured db, and then outputs to a small speaker, thus substantially reducing the fan noise. That would explain the delivery delay.

On top of that, he also reported that when the volume is above -23 (he usually listens between -10 and -14) that he cant hear the fan anymore. If you look at his theater pictures, his head is literally 18" from the projector, and on top of that, his HT is tiny. If fan noise is not an issue in this theater, it wont be in most others either I would not think.

I can add a further comment on noise to help people. I managed to get my Xbox 360 plugged in last night, it sits with the other equipment on the rack, which is approximately 10 feet from the seating position. The 360 was louder from 10 feet than the JVC from 18 inches.

And my room is tiny :)

I can add a further comment on noise to help people. I managed to get my Xbox 360 plugged in last night, it sits with the other equipment on the rack, which is approximately 10 feet from the seating position. The 360 was louder from 10 feet than the JVC from 18 inches.

And my room is tiny :)

This puts it in a good context. thanks for the info. Fwiw, I removed the hushbox from my soffit in preparation for the RS1 because I think the RS1 will be quieter than the fans in my hushbox ;)

Hard to know what the RS1 fan noise level will actually be like until it's installed in your own enviroment.Indeed. I'm sitting very close to it and it is definitely louder than my AE900 (both PJs in low-lamp mode). My problem is that in my room it will be difficult to move the PJ a long way from my ears! I'll sort something out though. Ceiling mounting it may well help.

Do you suppose JVC US is modifying the machines here in the US by adding a small module to the mother board which picks up the fan noise thru a small microphone, phase inverts it, amplifiies it to the measured db, and then outputs to a small speaker, thus substantially reducing the fan noise. That would explain the delivery delay.


The last time I called JVC I asked that very question and got only silence, I think you may be onto to something here. ;)

"I picked up my HD1 this afternoon. There's good news, not-so-good news and bad news...

Good news

Convergence: I don't have a source of 1080p test images, so I can't do a detailed analysis of convergence over the screen. I'll move the main projector menu around the screen later tonight and report back. I needed one horizontal pixel of red shift, but this brings convergence easily below half-a-pixel off.

So far, I haven't been able to view in terribly blacked out conditions, but HD feeds (e.g. Serenity on HD DVD, BBC HD channel) look stunning. The projector is easily as good as I remember it at the launch event.

Blacks really are unbelievable and the image is oh so punchy.

I didn't find it overly bright on my 83" screen, but I think I am used to a bright image. My opinion may change when the room is completely blacked out. Certainly the HD DVD logo in the bottom right corner of the screen was dazzing when discs were loading and the rest of the screen (and room) was dark.

Not-so-good news

As mentioned by UrbanT, it's too loud in Normal (low-lamp) mode, particularly for a small enclosed theatre. It is considerably louder than my AE900. I'm going to have to look at some kind of hush-box.

Bad news

I think that the HD1 doesn't correctly handle 480i/576i over HDMI with YCbCr 4:4:4 and RGB 4:4:4 colour-spaces. Aaaaaarrrrgggg!!!

The feed from my Oppo HD970 looks completely awful and I think it's the chroma. Basically, when scaled by the HD1 all images come through with massive stair-stepping and vertical pixel bands.

I do not see this on either YCbCr or RGB when the Oppo is fed over HDMI into my AE900, so I think the fault is probably with the HD1. I did check both Oppo HDMI output and HD1 HDMI input settings. The Oppo is unusual in outputting YCbCr 4:4:4, but that's no excuse. I hope that this can be remedied with a firmware fix ASAP if this is the case.

I suspect that the Arcam used on launch night outputs 480i/576i YCbCr 4:2:2 and this is handled correctly.

There is also something else that I spotted - a small varying and non-permanent (digital) gradation in the blue colour of the background.... I don't think this is a big deal, but I'm going to investigate more. I know that D-ILA devices do "imprint" easily (so screen-savers are a good idea) and I suspect that this is what I'm seeing. We know that the HD1 panel has a digital backplane.

Wow! Did I feel awful when I turned on the Oppo for the first time. Feeling better now... :nervous wreck:"

Looks like it's louder than we have been lead to believe by the pre-production reports.

Why are you feeling better now? Did you get the Oppo to output correctly for 480i?

What is the significance if it cannot output 4:4:4?

Thanks

Hi
A few short things to say. I had a Sony HS50 before the JVC and my platform is 3 feet above my head. I can tell you that the JVC is a lot louder than the Sony and almost as loud as the Sony when the Sony fan is in high altitude mode. The second and most disappointing thing is the light spill in the corners. I have a 92 inch diag screen and the light spill comes in from all four corners by about 9 to 10 inches when I have completely black picture on screen. I have contacted my dealer and I am waiting for him to get back to me as I am hoping that the light spill is not normal. Sorry to be the bearer of bad news.

Why are you feeling better now?Watched Serenity in HD DVD...
Did you get the Oppo to output correctly for 480i?I still cannot get the Oppo to work with the JVC. I don't know which is at fault at this time, the JVC or Oppo.
What is the significance if it cannot output 4:4:4?I said the opposite. I said that the Oppo is unusual in that it does output YCbCr 4:4:4 rather than YCbCr 4:2:2.

Hi
A few short things to say. I had a Sony HS50 before the JVC and my platform is 3 feet above my head. I can tell you that the JVC is a lot louder than the Sony and almost as loud as the Sony when the Sony fan is in high altitude mode. The second and most disappointing thing is the light spill in the corners. I have a 92 inch diag screen and the light spill comes in from all four corners by about 9 to 10 inches when I have completely black picture on screen. I have contacted my dealer and I am waiting for him to get back to me as I am hoping that the light spill is not normal. Sorry to be the bearer of bad news.

:( Looks like I will definetly hold off until I see the unit (for corner brightness issues) and hear the unit. I wanted to go from my DLP to a quieter unit. If the JVC is just as loud as my current DLP then I will just get the Sharp XV-Z20000 and put up with the noise from that.

Hello,

Sorry this is off topic but does anyone know how to contact Cine4Home. I'm trying to purchase one of his Z5 filters as I have a calibrator that will calibrate with filter. He has not returned any of the 3 emails or 2 AVS PM's I have sent. Puzzling since he is asking for international tuning partners on his site yet its been a month and no replies.

Any thoughts?

Thanks,

On Monday I spent time with a "production " model RS-1 and I thought it was quieter then the one(s) at CES. This was on a table and again had to bend over(watch that...) to hear it.

I have a Infocus 7200(first generation) that I am replacing so this should be almost silent compared to that model......

The funny thing is at the JVC suite the pj in the room seems to spew heat from the front exhaust more then the one I saw Monday.

Larry

cine4home didn't complain about fan noise when they reviewed the HD1. :)

I wonder if shelf mounting (vs. inverting) lowers fan noise on the RS1? Hope not as I plan on an inverted ceiling mount.

Can any of you HD1/RS1 owners/previewers please check. Easy to do - just go into the menu and switch mode from table - to ceiling. And vice versa. This is something I forgot to check at CES. (dang)

Now that the first few units are in consumers hands, it sounds like we're starting to finally hear about some flaws.

I'm looking forward to hearing more details (good and bad) from first hand users!

Convergence: I don't have a source of 1080p test images, so I can't do a detailed analysis of convergence over the screen. I'll move the main projector menu around the screen later tonight and report back. I needed one horizontal pixel of red shift, but this brings convergence easily below half-a-pixel off.


I read every unit was going through a first hand final QC inspection before delivery, and all have passed so far. Statements like the one above certainly make me question these inspections. You'd think something like this would be checked and corrected based on all the reports of such "inspections". :o

So I still believe we'll be OK re: noise level. Maybe the HD1 has a higher speed fan for some reason. :eek:

NO, RS1 and HD1 are identical in that perspective as well
Fan Noise is measured at 25dB and I have yet come across any report where somebody states it is too loud/annoying

Do you suppose JVC US is modifying the machines here in the US by adding a small module to the mother board which picks up the fan noise thru a small microphone, phase inverts it, amplifiies it to the measured db, and then outputs to a small speaker, thus substantially reducing the fan noise. That would explain the delivery delay.


Sorry this is not the case, you guys are reading too much into something where there is nothing to read into... :)

Bart - did you really think that Mark was serious ;)

Hard to tell sometimes on AVS! :D

NO, RS1 and HD1 are identical in that perspective as well
Fan Noise is measured at 25dB and I have yet come across any report where somebody states it is too loud/annoying


Well as one of the first people in the world to get a production model I would have to say that the noise is there and to me the noise is louder than it was on the demo model that was seen in the UK. I am also not the only one who has the projector at home to mention this. Also what is JVC standing with the light spill issue as once again I am not the only one to mention this. Has there been any changes from the demo models which wowed the people including me to the one I have at home?.

I also noticed light spill into the corners during the fade-to-credits at the end of Serenity HD DVD.

I still can not make up my mind, due to the various statements about the noise. :confused:

If going with it, I would like a wall mount solution like this

http://www.techhaus.dk/images/epw6565.jpg

Is such a solution available for the HD1, that can carry the weight?

NO, RS1 and HD1 are identical in that perspective as well
Fan Noise is measured at 25dB and I have yet come across any report where somebody states it is too loud/annoying

You mean besides the 2 reports from Spizz and VirusKiller? They both seem to think it is pretty loud.

I still can not make up my mind, due to the various statements about the noise. :confused:

If going with it, I would like a wall mount solution like this

http://www.techhaus.dk/images/epw6565.jpg

Is such a solution available for the HD1, that can carry the weight?

That is one slick mount. I'll start my search for one of these stateside.

I also noticed light spill into the corners during the fade-to-credits at the end of Serenity HD DVD.
My friend has a Samsung LCD 1080P flatpanel with this problem. It drives me crazy. Every time the screen goes to black, there are these light colored "clouds". I can't help but think everytime I see this that it is an indication that these parts of the screen are always this bright? We are usually watching sports, so I haven't noticed it when there is video being displayed, but it annoys me everytime I see it. Does anybody know what would cause these light anomalies and what effect it actually has on black levels during video playback? Is it possible that is has no effect on picture quality? Seems unlikely.

Thanks,
Jason

If I remember right, the Vogels was pretty limited to how much weight it could support.
Omnimount makes a wall mount bracket that I use with my Samsung 710 and it supports it just fine (as long as you mount into a stud). I then use a chief rpm which threads onto the omnimount.
Chief also makes a wall mount attachment that is able to support even more weight.


I still can not make up my mind, due to the various statements about the noise. :confused:

If going with it, I would like a wall mount solution like this

http://www.techhaus.dk/images/epw6565.jpg

Is such a solution available for the HD1, that can carry the weight?

The manual of the RS1 calls for 8" of clearance for intake and exhaust.

On which side do you need the 8" of clearance? This could affect my installation.

On page 3 of the manual (link below) it says you need at least 200mm or 7.87 inches of clearance on the front.

http://pro.jvc.com/pro/attributes/PRESENT/Manual/DLA-RS1_english.pdf

If I remember right, the Vogels was pretty limited to how much weight it could support.
Omnimount makes a wall mount bracket that I use with my Samsung 710 and it supports it just fine (as long as you mount into a stud). I then use a chief rpm which threads onto the omnimount.
Chief also makes a wall mount attachment that is able to support even more weight.

Brian,

Yeah I just noticed the weight limits in the specs. The Vogel EPW 6565 holds 22.10 pounds and the RS1 is 25.6. It is the best looking wall mount I've seen, bummer..

in the panny 1000 thread ( http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=769122 )considerable intelligent time was spend on the lumens question. Is the pj bright enough for bigger screens in ambient or non-ambient light conditions? The RS1 has by manufacture mentioned (much) less lumen (700!) and did i miss the debate of the RS1 ?brightness"? In the 3 honorable rapports of Mark Petersen i cannot find much text on the issue. Everybody issoo enthusiastic about the native high CR, but not "a " word on the low light output?

The difference is that the 700 lumens are measured at D65.
This issue has indeed been covered many times on the various RS1/HD1 threads.
So if having your PJ calibrated to D65 is important to you then you need to compare like for like.
Basically it's no light canon, but if you have a 'normal' screen size and a light-controlled room, you should be fine.
In the UK it's fine for most of us because we have smaller theatres, but some of you with multi-row seating and huge screens may need something brighter.

Good news

Convergence: I don't have a source of 1080p test images, so I can't do a detailed analysis of convergence over the screen. I'll move the main projector menu around the screen later tonight and report back. I needed one horizontal pixel of red shift, but this brings convergence easily below half-a-pixel off.

I read every unit was going through a first hand final QC inspection before delivery, and all have passed so far. Statements like the one above certainly make me question these inspections. You'd think something like this would be checked and corrected based on all the reports of such "inspections". :o
I'm either reading your post wrong or misconvergence by a fractional pixel is a bad thing. Or were you joking? If so, I'd have used a different emoticon than "embarassed." ;)

I can add a further comment on noise to help people. I managed to get my Xbox 360 plugged in last night, it sits with the other equipment on the rack, which is approximately 10 feet from the seating position. The 360 was louder from 10 feet than the JVC from 18 inches.

And my room is tiny :)

That doesn't really help me much. The 360 is EXTREMELY loud.