3% overscan seems to be the industry standard. Who actually watches the 1.5% of any edge if a movie? With a 110" screen, we are talking about 1.4" off the left/right. Seems that with all that real estate on the screen if something were important in the picture, it will not be in the outer 1.5% of the image. It is a technical thing, edge of the picture = edge of screen, but in reality overscan covers broadcast/mastering errors.



But cant a non pixel perfect image lead to artifacts?

I was planning on sending all signals in their native resolution since the Gennum chip should be able to handle them properly. Sure it was speculation, but one would think it could handle simple upconversion better than most if not all SD-DVD players and HD tuners (without overscanning the signal). Of course one would ultimately compare the processing of his own players to the JVC, but regarding the RS/HD-1... what's the point of using such a good chip if it isn't implemented in a useful manor? The crazy thing is I'm not even asking for more advanced features like VS or 60i -> 24p (although they would be nice). If JVC decides to fix this via a firmware upgrade (so they don't lose market time by delaying it's release), it would be nice if JVC considered adding VS or 60i -> 24p functionality. This overscan defeatability oversight may end up being a real thorn; JVC shoud do something to fix this (i.e. I can imagine cancelled orders if it isn't fixed). The other items are more of a since the overscan problem is being fixed, why not add these other capabilites.

What's the deal JVC? Tom and/or Bart... please chime in :).

EDIT: I consider defeating overscan by far the most important issue. Enabling 60i -> 24p is a distant second and VS is third. Having said that, adding all would be nice given a firmware upgrade seems to be in order (or at least should be in order if the overscan defeatability hasn't been fixed in the RS-1 prior to shipping in America).

But cant a non pixel perfect image lead to artifacts?Almost every image gets some sort of scaling. Many displays don't offer pure 1x1 pixel modes. One plasma that now does, the Panasonic 1080p "PF" series, displays 3% overscan, with an option for true 1x1 0% overscan. The 1x1 bypasses the internal scaler and displays 1920x1080. If fed 720p, it displays a 1280x720 window.

Artifacts can come from many sources. We are relying on a quality scaler, internal or external to provide the best image. Getting a display device with a perfect scaler is basically impossible, getting one that will/can totally bypass internal scaling is difficult (probably too confusing to the general consumer, and marketing wants to minimize service calls).

game consoles don't have any black borders, it's important that we're able to turn overscan off, because otherwise we're losing precious image content.
Bad guys standing just off screen and kicking your butt? :)

3% overscan seems to be the industry standard. Who actually watches the 1.5% of any edge if a movie? With a 110" screen, we are talking about 1.4" off the left/right. Seems that with all that real estate on the screen if something were important in the picture, it will not be in the outer 1.5% of the image. It is a technical thing, edge of the picture = edge of screen, but in reality overscan covers broadcast/mastering errors.


At 2.5% though for a 110" diag screen (96"wide) we are talking about 2.4" though off the left/right which could cause an issue for gaming, and probably other things as well.

There definately needs to be an option to turn this off.

I have just discovered that the HD1 overscans (by a full 2.5%) 480i/p and 576i/p via HDMI, as well as component*. There is no way of turning it off. :( It's personal preference, but as far as I'm concerned, the SD processing is next to useless**. I'm investigating external video processors and upscaling DVD players as alternate solutions.

On a positive note, I can confirm that it looks as if 720p and 1080i are not overscanned. My HD film (1080i60) and video (1080i50) feeds look superb.

Is that a bit more thorough from someone in the UK? :D :rolleyes:


* Verified with 480i, 480p, 576i, 576p from my Oppo 970 and with 480p from my Tosh HD-XA1, using the overscan test patterns in Avia (NTSC) and DVE (PAL).

** The discussion on 3:2 cadence judder removal is now academic. What would be the point of 480i60 --> 1080p24 processing when the input image is overscanned?

Can someone help me understand why overscan affects judder ?????

Can someone help me understand why overscan affects judder ?????If you focus on overscan, you don't see the judder........ :)

Can someone help me understand why overscan affects judder ?????


It doesn't :)

Dazzer

At 2.5% though for a 110" diag screen (96"wide) we are talking about 2.4" though off the left/right which could cause an issue for gaming, and probably other things as well.

There definately needs to be an option to turn this off.If one worries about or focuses on 1.2" of the side of a 96" screen, you are most likely missing something on the other side of the screen.

One option (not all will like this), the Lumagen has a shrink feature which will rescale the image size so you can achieve 0% overscan and still have 1x1 pixel mapping. The only issue is with a 1920x1080 every other line test pattern.

008 is refering to this quote by VirusKiller........


** The discussion on 3:2 cadence judder removal is now academic. What would be the point of 480i60 --> 1080p24 processing when the input image is overscanned?



What exactly does this mean?

I think he means he considers 480i60 --> 1080p24 processing a more pressing concern. That is, why fix the issue of overscanning when a far more important issue remains.

If one worries about or focuses on 1.2" of the side of a 96" screen, you are most likely missing something on the other side of the screen.

One option (not all will like this), the Lumagen has a shrink feature which will rescale the image size so you can achieve 0% overscan and still have 1x1 pixel mapping. The only issue is with a 1920x1080 every other line test pattern.


So the overscan is 2.5% TOTAL? So for the 110" diag screen there would be a total of 2.4" of overscan which would be 1.2" on each side? I though it would be 2.5% on EACH side. Which is it?

Interesting and glad to be corrected...

But more importantly the Gennum processor should be able to do 480i60 --> 1080p24 processing without overscanning the image. It shouldn't be that hard to do given how advanced the Gennum chip is.

It's crap to pay for a good processor if basic implementations aren't used. JVC should have used a less costly chip since they aren't taking advantage of the features that set the Gennum apart from the rest.

So the overscan is 2.5% TOTAL? So for the 110" diag screen there would be a total of 2.4" of overscan which would be 1.2" on each side? I though it would be 2.5% on EACH side. Which is it?I take it to mean, if the image has 2.5% overscan, you see 97.5% of the image, 1.25% off each side.

It means he doesn't like overscan. Given the choice. he'd rather output the raw 480i60 from a dvd player over HDMI and have the Gennum processor do the inverse telecine( this doesn't happen anyway, but if this feature were added, he'd still get overscan). If 480i60 is automatically overscanned, he's saying why not just buy a disc player, such as the Pioneer Elite Blu-ray player. Then have the Blu-ray player upscale 480i to 1080p and perform a 60i to 24p conversion. He's saying because 480i60 has overscan, having the Gennum processor is moot. That's it, nothing more.

Got it now. Thanks for the explanation :)

If the RS1 truly displays 1920x1080 then with the internal processor and default 2.5% overscan, all images are being scaled to 1968x1107. When displayed, visible portion is 97.5% of the original image and is being displayed at 1920x1080.

Next on the fight card: two days of bloody confrontation re: The Overscan Issue. During this act of our now epic struggle, three or four brave souls will take up the torch against the inhumanity of the Evil JVC Engineers who brazenly allowed 2% of the image to be cropped for 480i/p and 576i/p sources. In the other corner, hailing from STFU, three or four equally brave souls will climb into the ring to attempt to rebutt this latest wave of attacks on the judgement and integrity of the Good JVC Engineers. Officiating this bout, apparently on court orders cuz why the hell else would they be here still, will be The Rest of Us*.

Watch the headbutts, no kidney punches, touch gloves, and come out fighting. Ding! Ding! Ding!



*The Rest of Us: those who constitute the other 99% of the readers of this thread. Those who fervently and without ceasing pray to God in Heaven that this projector will be released soon-and-very-soon, so that we can flee into our caves to watch Lord Of The Rings instead of continuing to be forced to watch Lord Make It Stop JVC Threads.

But cant a non pixel perfect image lead to artifacts?

The only way to display 480i/p pixel-perfect would be with *huge* black borders on all sides. The image would occupy 17% of the screen area and the other 83% would be black. Anything other than that involves some kind of scaling.

--
Steve

Page 27 of the manual specifically says that masking(overscan) is only available with high definition images. When I first read this I thought JVC was simply implying that overscan could only be turned on when the pj is in 16:9 AR mode. This should be a user defeatable option if overscan is automatically turned on when the pj is receiving a 480/576/i/P signal, whether it be via HDMI or component inputs.

My cable box has a pass through mode that will send the signal out natively whether it be 480i, 720P or 1080i and is currently how I use it. I prefer to let my pj do the scaling since it does a better job than the cable box.

It may not matter to some but I don't feel like having to get up and play around with the zoom trying to get the image to fill my screen depending on what my source signal is. I don't want no stinking border that results in a smaller image. I want the image to fill my screen whether it is 92" or 142".

It's looking more and more likely that I'll have to get a VP for the RS1 in order to accomplish some simple tasks that I took for granted it would do since my low end Infocus does them.

Put me in the whiner category if you want to but I think JVC has been a bit short sighted here regarding some common features that many low end pj's are quite capable of doing.

Quote:
Originally Posted by krholmberg
"Interesting and glad to be corrected...

But more importantly the Gennum processor should be able to do 480i60 --> 1080p24 processing without overscanning the image. It shouldn't be that hard to do given how advanced the Gennum chip is."

Quote:
Originally Posted by reio-ta
"Everything that's "easy" seems to be very hard to do. Scaling 854x480i/p60 instead of 833x468 to 1920x1080p60, would seem easy too. But apparently it's not."



Maybe it is hard??? Or maybe JVC is setting themselves up for the RS-2... who knows

But cant a non pixel perfect image lead to artifacts?

A 480 line input won't be pixel perfect (ie, 1:1) on a 1080 line display anyway. Scaling (with associated artifacts) must occur unless the image is mapped to a small windowbox in the middle of the screen. Maybe JVC decided that since 1:1 pixel mapping of a 480 line signal is a moot point that they would go ahead and build in a bit of overscan to protect against the variable quality of SD sources. I'm not saying I agree with that decision, but it seems at least somewhat logical in that context. I personally agree with the idea that it should be user defeatable, even if it's turned on by default. I don't think I personally would lose sleep over it in any event (but I'm not a gamer and I can see where it could be a problem in that context).

Interesting related question: Does the overscan function in the JVC occur before or after scaling? My bet would be after, but it could be done either way. I wonder if it's easier to scan from 480 -> 1080 or 468 -> 1080 without artifacts?

Alan

The only way to display 480i/p pixel-perfect would be with *huge* black borders on all sides. The image would occupy 17% of the screen area and the other 83% would be black. Anything other than that involves some kind of scaling.
Yeah, "optical scaling" and that's done with a l-e-n-s. :)

"The only way to display 480i/p pixel-perfect would be with *huge* black borders on all sides. "

Yes I realized on my way to work after I posted that pixel perfection is meaningless with a 480i input and 1080P output.

So far, I don't see anything I'm concerned with.

I am paying for those pixels. I want to see them dammit ;)

FWIW, it is easier to implement a 0% overscan scaler because the pixel counts are rational fractions. Vertical scaling required a 9-phase "multi-rate filter" (1080/480 = 2.25 = 9/4). Horizontal scaling requires an 8-phase filter (1920/720 = 2.666 = 8/3).

Overscan by 2.5 % results in a 1968*1107 pixel image (subsequently cropped to 1920*1080). Both these pixel counts lead to irrational scale factors, a more complicated and, possibly, a compromised filter design.

The "good" JVC engineers went to extra trouble to bring you overscan. Be grateful :p

Personally, I think a 480->1080 scaler followed by an adjustable electronic mask is the best solution. With the CR available on this projector, black bars from the mask should hardly be a problem.

Brent

"likely a compromised filter design."

Theoretically, but it seems that it's been a few years since this resulted in perceptible PQ degradation.

Does anyone have a list of the discrete codes for the HD1/RS1?

Overscan by 2.5 % results in a 1968*1107 pixel image (subsequently cropped to 1920*1080). Both these pixel counts lead to irrational scale factors, a more complicated and, unfortunately, likely a compromised filter design.
Not really. I've read comments by a video processor company employee (don't remember who it was) who claimed that "good looking" scaling factors usually don't result in better scaling quality than "irrational looking" scaling factors. Doing 2.5% overscan on SD inputs does not make image quality any worse. It just removes 2.5% of the image, that's all. Personally, I don't care.

I'm personally thinking about making my own screen based on this design, all for less than $100:

http://www.curtpalme.com/Building_a_Screen1.shtm

I'll use the 54"x80" blackout cloth. That'll give me a 92" screen. If I want to have a smaller screen, like with what you say, masking off the edge, I'm going to add "curtains". That way I'll be able to control how big the area screen is, just like at a real theatre! I'll also be able to pull the curtains to make a 4:3 area, for those nights I want to watch Casablanca! If I want to get real fancy I may even add an electric motor with a remote control to move the curtains from all sides, also like what some theatres do. This setup will give me so many options, I could even situate the PJ in such a position that I can zoom in and out whenever I want more of a movie experience or more light.A 2x4 frame is overkill. I used 1x4s (kiln dried) with a vertical support to eliminate bow from stretching the screen. I cut a grove around the perimeter and attached the blackout cloth with black vinyl screen spline.

reio-ta - A fixed screen size and and variable zoom on the projector (preferrably controlled via the remote) would seem to be a lot simpler method for controlling overscan than variable screen masking.

Brent

Never heard of line doublers? 1708x960 isn't anywhere near 83% black. Pixel doubling leads to no artifacts, all you're doing is going from one pixel to a 2x2 matrix.

Just read this after I posted my last message. That's a good way to get an artifact free 480p upscale if you can live with a modest amount of windowboxing and it's easily implemented (I would think anyway).

EDIT: You could obviously get rid of the windowboxing by zooming the image if desired (motorized zoom would be nice for this application)

Upnorth: I have had two JVC G15s and a G11 in the past 7 years or so. I am looking into the RS1 to replace my current Phelps calibrated G15. JVC is good with quality control, but they are not perfect. One of my G15s got a dust blob in the "Sealed" section where the panels are. It was still under warranty and JVC did a good job fixing it by replacing the whole light engine of the projector, but had I not been under warranty, it would have cost $5,000.00 according to the tech. The repair was not perfect either and it had to go back again to the factory. Sum total $10,000.00 of repairs on the one machine. The biggest bummer is that I had to pay Phelps to calibrate the same projector twice. :(

Others: I really doubt that JVC will issue a firmware upgrade for the new projectors once they are released. From what I have seen, there haven't been any firmware updates for any of their other G series projectors that I have had and there isn't one (although greatly needed) for my newer JVC Pro 70" 1080P RPTV. Maybe I am missing something though.

Let me know if you have seen anything different.

It is my opinion that if JVC doesn't have a vertical stretch at time of release, they won't have one later either.

Please correct me if I'm wrong. I do like JVC.

Cameron

Does anyone have a list of the discrete codes for the HD1/RS1? Your dealer has access to those for you. Presumably, AVS, as dealer here will be providing those.

Does anyone have a list of the discrete codes for the HD1/RS1?
If you're refereing to the RS232 codes, they're in the owners manual.

noah & madshi (& reio-ta pm). Points taken. It all depends on how good (long) a filter and how many phases are available. I edited my post to change "likely" to "possibly". But, if I ever hear either of you guys advising not to use in-projector keystone correction, I am going to be all over you :p

Brent

Fact is, 480i/p is going to be scaled anyway. Yes, you could pixel-double and have a small black border, but that would be a nastily jaggy image -- I'd much rather the source data be scaled/filtered.

If we were talking about an inability to be pixel-perfect with a 1920x1080 image, then yeah, that would be a huge deal. But a tiny bit of overscan in an image that's already having some substantial processing done to it? Non-issue, IMO.

Also, I can guarantee that there won't be anything significant for video games in that 2.5%. We have to account for a much larger "safe zone" than that, even for our HD modes.

Others: I really doubt that JVC will issue a firmware upgrade for the new projectors once they are released. From what I have seen, there haven't been any firmware updates for any of their other G series projectors that I have had and there isn't one (although greatly needed) for my newer JVC Pro 70" 1080P RPTV. Maybe I am missing something though.

Let me know if you have seen anything different.

It is my opinion that if JVC doesn't have a vertical stretch at time of release, they won't have one later either.

Please correct me if I'm wrong. I do like JVC.

Cameron


I agree. This has been my experience with a past JVC projector. I think the same holds true for Sony as well. Only the most glaring problems warrant firmware from theses goliaths and certainly adding vertical strech wouldn't be classified as a "problem" by JVC so don't expect it.

"The only way to display 480i/p pixel-perfect would be with *huge* black borders on all sides. "

Yes I realized on my way to work after I posted that pixel perfection is meaningless with a 480i input and 1080P output.

So far, I don't see anything I'm concerned with.

This makes sense now that I think about it. I still think the overscan should be capable of being turned off though.

Fact is, 480i/p is going to be scaled anyway. Yes, you could pixel-double and have a small black border, but that would be a nastily jaggy image -- I'd much rather the source data be scaled/filtered.

If we were talking about an inability to be pixel-perfect with a 1920x1080 image, then yeah, that would be a huge deal. But a tiny bit of overscan in an image that's already having some substantial processing done to it? Non-issue, IMO.

Also, I can guarantee that there won't be anything significant for video games in that 2.5%. We have to account for a much larger "safe zone" than that, even for our HD modes.

Chris, thanks for laying that out so succinctly. I hadn't thought about the jaggies that blowing the image up without some form of filtering would cause.

While it would be nice to be able to turn off the overscan, it doesn't seem to me that it would be a dealbreaker when taken in light of the tremendous positives of this PJ.

Alan

I've bought an HD1 (Denmark) and will be receiving it in a week or two. My cinema room is situated in the basement and I got a neighbour room.

I was thinking about making a circular hole, shelf mounting the HD1 in the other room and letting it project through the hole. That way I will not hear it, nor feel any heat from it. But the HD1 has air in- and outtakes at the front. Will that be a problem, when I place it frontwise against the wall in the other room?

Glen,

Over and over I keep reading of people who've ordered the Carada brilliant white who have remarked about the fantastic "pop" to the picture and beautiful colors. You don't get many people saying that about the Firehawk and many poo-poo the firehawk as being more likely to cause a dimmer image. But the gain on the Firehawk seems higher.

So how does this play out in real world scenarios? (All other things being equal). Would the Firehawk actually look equally as bright and vivid as the Carada? (But with the better light rejection and contrast?). Or is this where the different color of those screens shows up?

Thanks.
In a white room the Firehawk will stomp the Carada and any other screen like it. The Firehawks defects work to give it a higher on-screen CR, because it dampens cross-light reflections. The difference is quite visible and vastly outwiegh its dissadvantages.

In a theater with dark or non-reflective surfaces, I would use a screen with better uniformity. However, I see quite a few black-hole theaters that use the Firehawk and it still looks great. I just think that there are better choices. Not everyone agrees with me about this. I have friends who think their Firehawks are better than white screens even in their black-hole theaters. IMO, in such a theater there are minimal cross-light reflections to wash out the screen image. So you don't need a Firehawk. No screen can change the CR of an image on its own. It is only by dampening the effect of cross-light reflections that the on-screen CR can be affected. Other than that, grey screens have no affect on CR, despite what some may post. A lower gain screen lowers the level of White to the same degree as it lowers the level of Black and CR remains the same, just at a lower level of brightness.

There is a ton of BS about screens on the forum and in print. A screen is mearly a reflective surface. What it does to any image reflected from it can be measured in terms of color shift and brightness shifts. Plus the affect of the surface texture on sharpness, sparklies, and the like.

Though the Firehawk has slightly higher gain at the very center of the screen, it measures lower and lower gain as you move out from the center towards the sides. The Carada remains much more constant. The Carada would probably appear brighter over all than the Firehawk because of this. I usually figure the Firehawk at 1.0 gain when planning how bright a PJ to mate with it.

White vs Grey in itself has absolutely nothing to do with "POP" or color purity or anything like that. This is a lack of understanding as to what is really going on in the reflected image. In video, grey is the same color as white. It is just less intense (less bright). In video, White and every shade of Grey is the color described by the x/y color coordinates .3127/.3290. When an ISF calibrates a display's greyscale, he sets the display so that White and every shade of Grey down to Black is as close to .3127/.3290 as possible. If a screen is color accurate, meaning that it does not impart a color of its own to the images it reflects then it doen't matter what that screen looks like when the PJ is shut down and the room lights are on. The screen can look white, grey, and even a little salmon color and still be shown to impart no significant color shift. You can't judge a screen with the room lights on.

Where this POP thing comes from is that people have compared higher gain white screens like an ST130 to lower gain grey screens like the Firehawk in the same room and at the same time. In this kind of comparison the dimmer screen looks greyer. However, from reading the above, you probably realize that looking "greyer" only means "dimmer" in this context. If you bring in say a 1.8 gain white screen and put it next to the ST130, now all of the sudden, the ST130's image looks greyer and lacking in POP. Remove the 1.8 gain screen and the ST130's POP returns. Now remove the ST130 and the Firehawks vividness returns. And so on and so on and so on.

This is just the way human vision works and this is well known. For example, if you project a white square that is 10 fL against a Black background, you will see the square as being White. Now add a second square next to it that is 12 fL. The 10 fL square suddenly is perceived as being light grey.

The Carada has advantages over the Firehawk in terms of superior uniformity, both in brightness and in color. However. any differences in "perceived" color vividness can only be due to differences in brightness. Make it so that the image coming from the Firehawk is brighter, and then it will appear to be the more vivid in a side by side comparison. On their own, without direct comparison, both screens will be equally "vivid". Anyone who thinks otherwise is mearly fooling themselves.

Let me put it another way, as long as two screens do not color shift the image, the colors they reflect will be identical escept for how bright they are. Neither one will be more "vivid" than the other. In an HT we are selecting a PJ and screen to achieve a certain desired brightness level, which is commonly 12 fL at White. The size and gain of the screen will determine how bright it is. Choose a screen whose gain gets you your desired brightness level.

Yes, a grey screen will look identical to a white screen that has the same gain and uniformity charectoristics. You could not tell the difference, nor could measuring equipment. Anyone who tells me they see something that can be demonstrate is not there, is merely mistaken.

Glenn

I take it to mean, if the image has 2.5% overscan, you see 97.5% of the image, 1.25% off each side.
You could use the term either as the overscan per edge, or total overscan from side to side, or top to bottom. I always use the term as overscan per edge (and I think that is now more common), because each edge usually has slightly different overscan. Some displays provide horizontal and vertical centering controls that allow the overscan to be equalized on edges, but not all do. Display manufacturer's usually quote overscan per edge, but not all do.

If the RS1 truly displays 1920x1080 then with the internal processor and default 2.5% overscan, all images are being scaled to 1968x1107. When displayed, visible portion is 97.5% of the original image and is being displayed at 1920x1080.
Why would you conclude that? Lot's of processors/displays provide "pixel-perfect" mapping at their native resolution (1080p or 720p) but overscan other formats, particularly 480i or 480p.

Glenn, good post.

One thing many don't understand is that the "gray" screens just move the light levels down, both black and white. This was extremely important on projectors with poor black levels. With projectors performing better, the gray screens now allow for compensation for poor room conditions. Dynamic range is important in image "POP" and screen gain can help add dynamic range. Gain and hot-spotting is something for the viewer to decide the limits.

The eye will adapt to the overall light level of the room and the darker the room the overall average light level will be lower, making darker blacks more important and whites can seem brighter. Theaters, with white walls, are difficult, if not impossible to achieve maximum performance.

You could use the term either as the overscan per edge, or total overscan from side to side, or top to bottom. I always use the term as overscan per edge (and I think that is now more common), because each edge usually has slightly different overscan. Some displays provide horizontal and vertical centering controls that allow the overscan to be equalized on edges, but not all do. Display manufacturer's usually quote overscan per edge, but not all do.
Wait a minute. Don't we center the image? And if so, wouldn't there then be the same amount of overscan "per edge?"

Pixel doubling leads to no artifacts, all you're doing is going from one pixel to a 2x2 matrix.
That would look absolutely awful. No one scales like that.

Wait a minute. Don't we center the image? And if so, wouldn't there then be the same amount of overscan "per edge?"
No, many (perhaps most?) displays and processors do not provide centering controls (at least not ones that are easy to use without defining custom formats) particularly for 480i and 480p.

No, many (perhaps most?) displays and processors do not provide centering controls (at least not ones that are easy to use without defining custom formats) particularly for 480i and 480p.
I was referring to the projected image. When I mounted my pj I adjusted the zoom so that the image just filled the screen and then physically adjusted the pj so that the edges of the image fit evenly between the black felt edges.

What are you talking about? That gives the best results for me. I play with emulators a lot, the best option is called even scaling, 1x, 2x,3x, etc. MAME is an excellent example. I then get black bars on all four sides. Say the game is a Sega Titan board, such as Radiant Silver Gun (640x480), on a 1920x1080 display I would use 1280x960 (black borders on all four sides). If I did 1440x1080, the score text would alias, making the white text have color fringing. Another program that does multiple scaling, Media Player Classic. I use that program in conjunction with FFDshow and Dscaler. I tell it to double the image, so I get an image of 1708x960. If I show as 1920x1080, text looks horrible, blurry and other things looked aliased.
You are talking about PC text with no bandwidth limiting, etc. We usually talk about video here.

I was referring to the projected image. When I mounted my pj I adjusted the zoom so that the image just filled the screen and then physically adjusted the pj so that the edges of the image fit evenly between the black felt edges.The original post about overscan referred to missing video information within the projected video frame. Centering the screen obviously doesn't have anything to do with that.

No, I'm talking about using a computer to act like one of your fancy schmancy VPs like a Lumagen, and what not. Both movies played on MPC and video games using an emulator are video. I use an LCD, things are pretty sharp. I can tell the difference between 1.5x scaling, such as 720p to 1080p, and dvd 2x instantly. The 1.5x scaling to fit the screen looks horrible compared to the 2x.
Good, don't buy one of those "fancy schmancy VPs" then because they don't scale that way.

I've bought an HD1 (Denmark) and will be receiving it in a week or two. My cinema room is situated in the basement and I got a neighbour room.

I was thinking about making a circular hole, shelf mounting the HD1 in the other room and letting it project through the hole. That way I will not hear it, nor feel any heat from it. But the HD1 has air in- and outtakes at the front. Will that be a problem, when I place it frontwise against the wall in the other room?

One of these many RS-1 threads has a design for getting air to the front of the pj in just your (and my) situation. It's basically an air duct with a fan to power air into the front vent. I think someone said one of the front vents is an inlet, the other an outlet. I'll PM you if I ever find it again.

When I set mine up I'll definitely have a temp sensor in the airpath to make sure of ventilation. I wouldn't want to fry my new toy!

White vs Grey in itself has absolutely nothing to do with "POP"With the caveat that if you can somehow normalise the reflected brightness without changing any other aspect of performance AND you are in a white-walled room then the grey screen should add more pop. The reason is that the grey screen reduces cross-light reflections (they take an additional hit each time they bounce off the screen) and therefore reduces wash-out.

Example: In a white-walled room, a 1000 lumen projector displaying on a 0.5 gain "grey" screen should have more pop than the exact same projector displaying on a 1.0 gain "white" screen but using an ND2 filter. However, for the reasons glenned points out, put either set up in a perfect bat cave and they should be indistinguishable (and better than either of the white-walled cases).

This example assumes that both screens have the same directionality. Also you have to do this example with an ND filter (or a lamp drive change) rather than an iris because, with an iris, the projector CR will likely change.

Brent

This thread should be moved to the video processor forum.

We talk so little about the JVC anymore because there is little to say untril they start shipping.

I wonder what the subject will be at page 200?

This thread is wandering so much it is getting useless.

For all that I have read there is little doubt that this is the projector for me. However I do have a little concern as to what the lumen drop off will be at a various long throws. My Distance/Screen Width is equal to 2.1. Previous reports indicate a 27% loss at 2.8. If the loss were linear my loss would then be 13.5% - which is very acceptable to me. So I will have to wait and see. Looking forward to the anticipated reports. Maybe Mark can get a clue on Thursday.

"One of these many RS-1 threads has a design for getting air to the front of the pj in just your (and my) situation. It's basically an air duct with a fan to power air into the front vent. I think someone said one of the front vents is an inlet, the other an outlet. I'll PM you if I ever find it again."

That was me, and I believe it's in this thread.

If I had the space available, and it sounds like maybe Swearengen does, I would just leave enough room in front of the pj.

I doubt it would be necessary,but you could add a tube around the lens to block the noise.

Glenn,

Thanks for the detailed reply. I do understand that gray screen merely lowers overall light levels (along with being more directional, in the Firehawk). So what I meant by "all other things being equal" (and I guess it wasn't clear I meant in a suitably light-controlled room) was comparing the real-world gain of the Firehawk vs the Carada. Your explanation of the uniformity of the Carada over the Firehawk and the likely subjective effect on brightness is helpful.

I am very aware of the effects of maintaining deep black levels in dark lighting and the ways that our perception of contrast can be influenced. Over the past several years many (somewhat newbie) people have gone on about how LCD flat panel black levels "look as good or better" than the best plasma black levels. This is of course in bright lighting where the LCDs can use a combination of their higher light output and better ambient light rejection (screen structure) to produce a higher perceived contrast. But it's quite different for those of us who like to watch films in low or off light situations. One demo I like to do is between an LCD (pick anyone, Sharp...whatever) and a Panasonic plasma in a room with controlled lighting. Lights on, side by side, the LCD can look like it has good (and depending on the ambient light, even better) black levels compared to the plasma. But as I turn down the light dimmer it's almost like an optical illusion; a magic trick. Before people's eyes as it gets darker the LCD "blacks" glow brighter and brighter, whereas the plasmas can remain the same or even become darker (as ambient light falls off the glass). And we end up with the reverse: an LCD with glowing black levels, looking washed out, against the now deeper, richer punchier plasma image. It gets an "Ohhhh...now I see what you mean!" every time.

So I'm definitely in the "want to make sure I get most out of the JVC black levels" camp. Hopefully I can get enough room control to widen my choice of screens.

This thread should be moved to the video processor forum.

We talk so little about the JVC anymore because there is little to say untril they start shipping.

I wonder what the subject will be at page 200?

This thread is wandering so much it is getting useless.
It has gotten useless. It is so large that many points already discussed are being repeated.

Just so I'm understanding you. It doesn't matter about any of those, white, grey, silver, etc. If you want a big screen use high gain. If you want bright but no gain, a smaller screen will look the same as the high gain on a bigger screen? As long as the small screen white with no gain gives 12 Ftl and the bigger screen with silver and gain gives off 12 Ftl too. Also, both have the same color shift, both will give the same picture in the same bat cave?

Yes.

With the caveat that there will be some differences if the two screens differ in brightness uniformity. The measurements that I posted for intensity at the edge of the screen when measured from the prime seat describe how uniform the reflected image will be to the prime seat. Keep in mind that that for the human eye/brain to sense that brightness has been halved, it must actually be reduced to 18% of the original intensity. The human eye/brain senses that the change in intensity is much smaller than what the meter does. This coupled with the fact that most video images are not uniform themselves makes people surprisingly tolerant of brightness uniformity issues like those induced by the Firehawk, for example. So I say, "Yes". If you want a big screen, and that requires using a gain screen. Go for it. You can also choose to go the lower gain and smaller screen route and move the seating closer as an alternative.

The measurements for intensity when measured from a seat set at a 45 degree angle from the center of the screen describe how much dimmer the image will appear to someone sitting off to the side at a 45 degree angle. If you don't have seating off to the side, then this isn't of concern. Most HTs don't. If you do, then that non-uniform screen might not work well enough for you. It all depends on how often those seats get used and how important that is to you. I actually have seats in my HT at that angle, and guests choose to use them instead of sitting in front of the screen frequently, and to my consternation, because I never would. They find the brightness level from those seats OK.

Another example. I put in a theater that also had seating off to the sides and where the intended audience would be critical viewers. I wanted to use the Carada BW because of its uniformity and because of its low cost. The screen needed to be large. I could not use the 122"D screen that I wanted. It would not be bright enough. I settled for a 110"D screen and moved the seating closer to the screen to maintain the same field of view for the prime seat. The walls were dark and non-reflective, but the ceiling was white. I can see visible image washout from the cross-light reflections off the ceiling. It still looks very good, but it will look even better if the ceiling is darkened. In this room a Firehawk would look better to a viewer in the prime seat than the Carada does, but the viewers on the sides would see a considerably dimmer image and they would probably disagree, at least I think I would.

Glenn

I am paying for those pixels. I want to see them dammit ;)


Brent
think of all the pixels you are missing if you don't use an anamorphic lens... more like 20%

I need to chime in with some clarification:

1) The overscan on 480i/p and 576i/p HDMI inputs is 2.5% all round, so in total, 5% of the images is lost vertically and horizontally.

2) My point about adding 480i60 --> 1080p24 being pointless is precisely because I don't like overscan. You'd have to add the new feature and add the ability to remove the overscan as well.

3) There does not appear any way to turn off the overscan. The "Masking" menu (which is not overscan, but pixel blanking) is disabled in all non-1080i/p modes.

4) Despite my dislike of overscan on SD inputs, the Gennum scaling of 480i/p and 576i/p material is exceptionally good. I'm currently borrowing a Meridian G98 and it obliterates the Faroudja scaling in that player (v2.11 firmware in the G98 - I am going to update this and re-check).

5) Now that I have a player capable of 1080p, I will verify there is no overscan on 1080p50 and 1080p60 signals this evening.

Thanks for the replies regarding the air-in-out on the HD1. I will try and experiment, make a little space between the wall and the PJ and see if it works out. Otherwise I'll have to install some kind of fan system.

think of all the pixels you are missing if you don't use an anamorphic lens... more like 20%
Pixels perhaps, but with a 1080p source on a 1080p display, there is NO MORE picture information.

so what kinda of scaler/lens would you guys recommend with the rs1 and an 2.85:1 screen?

With respect to 235:1 sources would the following be correct logic?

Without the anamorphic lense I'm giving up 20% of the available pixels.

With 1080P vs 720 I''m gaining (2073600- 921600) 1,152,000 pixels or 125% more.

With an anmorphic lens/CIH my picture would be brighter because I'm using all the pixels.

But compared to a 720P projector the RS1 would still have greater resolution even without the CIH setup [(.8 * 2073600 ) - 921600) = 737280 or 80% more.

So if the Greek 1080 vs 720 comparison that showed no perceivable difference in resolution between a full 720P vs a full 1080P, then even without CIH my 1080P projector should be at least as good as a 720P CIH with respect to resolution although not as bright as it could be.

But if someone were using their RS1 CIH normally in low lamp mode that's only 80% as bright as high lamp mode then could someone not using CIH switch to high lamp mode and zoom out to fill the screen and still get the same brightnes as a 1080P CIH in low lamp mode? :)

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Aspect_ratio_(image)

Why do you have a 2.85:1 screen? Only one film has an aspect ratio larger than Ben Hur's 2.76:1. No lens exists, that I know of, which will scale to your screen. Even if there was, it'd look horrible and everything would be too wide.
A typo perhaps? 1.85:1 makes sense . .

A variable prismasonic lens and video processor allows you to fill the screen to the 1.85:1 ratio from 16:9, but like you say, it's a pretty minimal difference.

Pixels perhaps, but with a 1080p source on a 1080p display, there is NO MORE picture information.

This is always a concern I have about the CIH setup. Basically, it seems to be a tradeoff between true 1:1 pixel mapping (with no artifacts) or full use of the display panel (with some artifacts the severity of which is dependent on the scaler used and any distortions of the anamorphic lens). Since I haven't personally compared such setups I don't really have an opinion about which is better since there are theoretical benefits to both, and it may mainly come down to personal preference of which display qualities are most important.

The manufacturers must have a persecution complex by now. The following dialogue is my reflection on what it must by like to be a manufacturer in the high end AV business these days. Hopefully this won't offend too many... ;)


Manufacturer: "Hey great news, all our PJs are 1:1 pixel mapped 1080p just like you wanted"

HTguy: "Yawn"

Manufacturer: "No seriously. Our engineers worked on this 24/7 for six months!!"

HTguy: "Whatever... Where's the CIH vertical stretch?"

Manufacturer: "The what???"

HTguy: "You know the mode where you can vertically stretch 2:35:1 movies to fit the screen height and expand it with an anamorphic lens"

Manufacturer: "Yeah, but doesn't that mean the pixels aren't mapped 1:1 anymore?"

HTguy: "1:1 pixel mapping is *so* 2006. I can't possibly even think of looking in the general direction of your PJ until it supports CIH"

Manufacturer: "But we just spent six months... My dog left me..."

HTguy: "Hey, it's just a simple firmware update dude"

Manufacturer: "But, but....

HTguy: "Shoot me an email in the morning with the new firmware. Cool?"

Manufacturer: << HEAD EXPLODES >>

HTguy: "Hey dude, while we're at it let's talk about 480i/60 to 1080p/24. Dude, dude....?"

<Silence>


With apologies to all. :)

Alan

I need to chime in with some clarification:

1) The overscan on 480i/p and 576i/p HDMI inputs is 2.5% all round, so in total, 5% of the images is lost vertically and horizontally.

2) My point about adding 480i60 --> 1080p24 being pointless is precisely because I don't like overscan. You'd have to add the new feature and add the ability to remove the overscan as well.

3) There does not appear any way to turn off the overscan. The "Masking" menu (which is not overscan, but pixel blanking) is disabled in all non-1080i/p modes.

4) Despite my dislike of overscan on SD inputs, the Gennum scaling of 480i/p and 576i/p material is exceptionally good. I'm currently borrowing a Meridian G98 and it obliterates the Faroudja scaling in that player (v2.11 firmware in the G98 - I am going to update this and re-check).

5) Now that I have a player capable of 1080p, I will verify there is no overscan on 1080p50 and 1080p60 signals this evening.

Thanks for the follow up, we appreciate it! :)

haha sorry was heading out the door when i posted that. yes i meant 2.35:1:D

This is always a concern I have about the CIH setup. Basically, it seems to be a tradeoff between true 1:1 pixel mapping (with no artifacts) or full use of the display panel (with some artifacts the severity of which is dependent on the scaler used and any distortions of the anamorphic lens).
When the source was 1080i (hi-def cable) and the projectors were 720p (or 768P), there was a case to be made for using more pixels and actually getting more resolution. Now that we're at 1080p/1080p, I believe that argument has gone away. On the performance side, there's still the "more lumens" issue, but with a projector such as the RS1, I believe that is a non-issue, too. Remaining is an aesthetic one - call it the Cinemascope Experience™. Since this is objective and not subjective, there is no resolving it. You either drank the kool aid or you didn't.

At this point, isn't it going to be cheaper to just stack 2-RS1 projectors and deal with the black bars with masking? I am assuming most are doing DIY theater setups vs. the "I want this..." How much do I make the check for?

At this point, isn't it going to be cheaper to just stack 2-RS1 projectors and deal with the black bars with masking? I am assuming most are doing DIY theater setups vs. the "I want this..." How much do I make the check for?
Is stacking going to work with HDMI/HDCP or are you forced to revert to component connections? There has been a lot of talk about stacking but I haven't seen anyone actually say they have tested a HDMI splitter with HDCP'ed material to two displays.

3) There does not appear any way to turn off the overscan. The "Masking" menu (which is not overscan, but pixel blanking) is disabled in all non-1080i/p modes.


Just to confirm, have you verified there is no masking option available for 720p?

When the source was 1080i (hi-def cable) and the projectors were 720p (or 768P), there was a case to be made for using more pixels and actually getting more resolution. Now that we're at 1080p/1080p, I believe that argument has gone away. On the performance side, there's still the "more lumens" issue, but with a projector such as the RS1, I believe that is a non-issue, too. Remaining is an aesthetic one - call it the Cinemascope Experience™. Since this is objective and not subjective, there is no resolving it. You either drank the kool aid or you didn't.

Well put. I suppose the only way to put all the pixels to use without scaling would be for someone to produce a 2:35:1 HD-DVD or Blu-ray disc that was transferred from the source material with the vertical stretch to begin with (hi-def "anamorphic" so to speak). However, I'd say there's a pretty much 0% chance of that happening since I doubt any players out there could downscale such a disc to fit the 16:9 format that 99+% of all HDTVs out there handle (I've never heard of such a feature in either next-gen disc spec though I'm no expert).

Maybe the next "super hi-def" format will be 2:35:1 and the next-gen DVD format (if there even is one) will require downscaling support for the "old" 16:9 displays (just as DVD players were required to downscale 16:9 DVDs for 4:3 displays). Of course by the time (and even if) that transition occurs we may all be downloading our content anyway in which case we may well have a choice of resolutions / aspect ratios to fit whatever display we may have (like the choice of resolutions for Quicktime movie trailers - though that's mainly a bandwidth consideration right now).

Alan

Is stacking going to work with HDMI/HDCP or are you forced to revert to component connections? There has been a lot of talk about stacking but I haven't seen anyone actually say they have tested a HDMI splitter with HDCP'ed material to two displays.This (http://www.gefen.com/kvm/product.jsp?prod_id=2514) should work.

Nice find!

It would be pretty cool to see a stacked RS-1 theater with a huge 2.35 AT screen.

This is AVS... somebody will do it :D.

2) My point about adding 480i60 --> 1080p24 being pointless is precisely because I don't like overscan. You'd have to add the new feature and add the ability to remove the overscan as well.60i -> 24p would still serve a very valuable purpose in the case of HD material, which is where my concerns lie.

Update:

Looks like no overscan on 1080p50 and 1080p60.
Looks like I got carried away in my "HD1 scaling obliterates the Meridian G98" comment. They are close. Dunno what I was on... :rolleyes:
I agree that 1080i60 --> 1080p24 would be great.

Based on the numbers off the cine4home preview, I think the black level may very well be below 0.001 Ftl. If that's the case, I don't see how any on/off contrast ratio means a damn thing? Most review sites, if not all, have light meters "only" accurate to 0.001 Ftl.

If we assume the 600 lumen reading was from a screen emitting 16 ftl, that means:


16/15,200 = 0.00105 Ftl

for the same size screen giving off 16 Ftl at 600 lumens, for the 18,300 at 830 lumens would be 22.1333333333 Ftl:

22.133333333333/18,300 = 0.001209 Ftl.

Meaning both contrast readings were using a black level that was lower than the meter could handle. But because the peak white level was higher at 830 lumens, the "measured" contrast was higher, when actually both could have been the same (the d65 contrast was even higher), and just couldn't be measured? I really wish cine4home had said what the screen size was.Screen reading are pretty useless for measuring projector performance to publish. You need repeatable measurements, this is one reason the test patterns Wm designed take their reading from the projector. Screens, size, room, distance, etc. are all way too variable for meaningful measurements.

http://www.hdplustv.de/hdtv/hd_capsel_135929.html

A German Review

umm my german is a little rusty is there an english version? pretty pictures though :p

umm my german is a little rusty is there an english version? pretty pictures though :p
Well, I posted the original link to the review with a very rough short translation here:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=9834413&&#post9834413

Maybe I missed another post on this, but Cine4Home review is up on german page:
http://www.cine4home.de/

It is going to be posted in 3 parts over several days. Part 1 is up.

Maybe I missed another post on this, but Cine4Home review is up on german page:
http://www.cine4home.de/
Thank you! Had to press F5, though, to make it visible...

Rather than suffer through a Google translation, I'm content to wait for the Actual English version.

Does not look complete...

Funny the 1st picture with the case open, the thing looks like a school project with all the 'duct' tape used:)

how can I get google to do the translation?

http://translate.google.com

It's the first of 3 parts of the review. Tomorrow comes the next part. Here's a rough translation of the summary of the first part:

"In our first review part the HD1 convinces us almost fully: Appealing and high quality looking outside, very good inside construction and an impressive setup flexibility are what we expect from a high end beamer of this price class. Only the missing setup motorization, the missing PC input/resolution support and the noise in high lamp mode damp the otherwise great impression."

Oh my! When I saw the photos on Cine4home with that poor HD1 completely taken apart..., I almost started to cry....

http://translate.google.com
And select German to English. The default is Spanish to English.

It's the first of 3 parts of the review. Tomorrow comes the next part. Here's a rough translation of the summary of the first part:

"In our first review part the HD1 convinces us almost fully: Appealing and high quality looking outside, very good inside construction and an impressive setup flexibility are what we expect from a high end beamer of this price class. Only the missing setup motorization, the missing PC input/resolution support and the noise in high lamp mode damp the otherwise great impression."
What? No mention of missing image stretch or 480i60 > 1080p24? Arrrgh! :rolleyes:

What? No mention of missing image stretch or 480i60 > 1080p24? Arrrgh! :rolleyes:
They didn't look at video processing or image quality yet... ;)

This is always a concern I have about the CIH setup. Basically, it seems to be a tradeoff between true 1:1 pixel mapping (with no artifacts) or full use of the display panel (with some artifacts the severity of which is dependent on the scaler used and any distortions of the anamorphic lens). Since I haven't personally compared such setups I don't really have an opinion about which is better since there are theoretical benefits to both, and it may mainly come down to personal preference of which display qualities are most important.

The manufacturers must have a persecution complex by now. The following dialogue is my reflection on what it must by like to be a manufacturer in the high end AV business these days. Hopefully this won't offend too many... ;)


Manufacturer: "Hey great news, all our PJs are 1:1 pixel mapped 1080p just like you wanted"

HTguy: "Yawn"

Manufacturer: "No seriously. Our engineers worked on this 24/7 for six months!!"

HTguy: "Whatever... Where's the CIH vertical stretch?"

Manufacturer: "The what???"

HTguy: "You know the mode where you can vertically stretch 2:35:1 movies to fit the screen height and expand it with an anamorphic lens"

Manufacturer: "Yeah, but doesn't that mean the pixels aren't mapped 1:1 anymore?"

HTguy: "1:1 pixel mapping is *so* 2006. I can't possibly even think of looking in the general direction of your PJ until it supports CIH"

Manufacturer: "But we just spent six months... My dog left me..."

HTguy: "Hey, it's just a simple firmware update dude"

Manufacturer: "But, but....

HTguy: "Shoot me an email in the morning with the new firmware. Cool?"

Manufacturer: << HEAD EXPLODES >>

HTguy: "Hey dude, while we're at it let's talk about 480i/60 to 1080p/24. Dude, dude....?"

<Silence>


With apologies to all. :)

Alan


Hilarious! Funniest post in a long time... :)

Have I missed the word on the warranty here with the prebuy?

The real humor comes from the realization of all the effort that is being expended by the me-too crowd in complaining about perceived complaints.

Incidentally, should talk of potential updates to fix overscanning issues stay in this thread or, as seems the case, is this playground just a little too overrun with bunk?

Have I missed the word on the warranty here with the prebuy?Factory Warranty here (http://www.jvcservice.com/service/MdlWtyInq.asp?PgReq=DspDta&MdlNbr=DLA-RS1U)

Factory Warranty here (http://www.jvcservice.com/service/MdlWtyInq.asp?PgReq=DspDta&MdlNbr=DLA-RS1U)

Thanks Glen

Oh my! When I saw the photos on Cine4home with that poor HD1 completely taken apart..., I almost started to cry....



Dont cry, we reassembled it and it worked fine afterwards :-) It is still a healthy HD1

:)

Regards,
Ekkehart, Cine4Home

Dont cry, we reassembled it and it worked fine afterwards :-) It is still a healthy HD1

:)

Regards,
Ekkehart, Cine4Home


Oh, and I imagine it's up for sale now too, is it? Of course it is, and it's in great shape. Only used by a little old lady on Sundays... ;)

Oh, and I imagine it's up for sale now too, is it? Of course it is, and it's in great shape. Only used by a little old lady on Sundays... ;)


Haha, no it is not for sale.. belongs to JVC...

:)

Regards,
Ekkehart

Ekkehart,

Anxiously waiting to find out what the lumen loss is at a D/W of 2.1.

Hilarious! Funniest post in a long time... :)

Thanks tbacos. As a design engineer in the semiconductor world, I've been on the receiving end of that conversation a number of times, so it's sort of weirdly amusing to watch it play out from the other side of the cash register. It's not so much that most people are being terribly unreasonable (from my POV), it's just the old problem of a company trying to figure out what the majority of customers really want in advance. Personally, I think JVC has done a pretty good job in this department from a feature and spec point-of-view. Of course we still have yet to find out about operational / QC quirks that may surface when enough people have units in hand.

Hey, I was just thinking, maybe I can get my status changed from "Member" to "AV Humorist". :D

Alan

Will the RS1 ever be available at places like BHphoto, Adorma, etc? I would like to be able to purchase the Mack extended warranty with the RS1.

I think you can buy the Mack warranty independent of where you purchase the projector?

For everyone who lives in the Toronto area... I was in Bay Bloor Radio on Saturday and I was asking them about the RS1/HD1. Apparently they will be having a demo night(s) in the next 1 to 2 weeks. I will post additional information when they call me to confirm the dates.

BTW, they expect the unit to sell for approximately $7,000.00.

Bill

Links whit pictures from an Norwegan shootout-that was arranged yesterday. The contenders where:

Projectiondesign Action! Modell Three med Crystalio II, 1080 DLP
JVC HD-1, 1080 DiLA NYHET!
Sony VW50 "Pearl", 1080 SXRD
Sharp XV-Z21000, 1080 DLP
Mitsubishi HC5000, 1080 LCD
Epson TW1000, 1080 LCD NYHET!
InFocus IN78, 720 DLP
Epson TW700, 720 LCD

All projectors calibrated in an not ideal room. The atendees was most imressed by the JVC, the clear vinner of the shootout. I was unfortuanately not able to attend...

http://avforum.no/forum/587139-post261.html

Other than pictures and some brief text in Norwegian at the beginning of the thread, there seems to be no real content.

You say the attendees were most impressed by the JVC--was this a blind test, or did they know which projector they were looking at?

Other than pictures and some brief text in Norwegian at the beginning of the thread, there seems to be no real content.

You say the attendees were most impressed by the JVC--was this a blind test, or did they know which projector they were looking at?

Couldnt find much either.

Gotta luv the names on the nametags ("smore", "mrG" and my personal favorite "Warlock") :)

Translated link-

http://www.tranexp.com:2000/InterTran?type=url&url=http%3A%2F%2Favforum.no%2Fforum%2Fgenerell-info%2F48085-arets-bildebegivenhet-projektor-2007-arrangementet-fullt-venteliste-settes-opp-14.html%23post587139&text=A+grand+day+out...%21%0D%0AJeg+m%E5+si+meg+enig+med+de+ flestes+betraktninger.%0D%0A%0D%0AJVC+DLA-HD1+p%E5+f%F8rste%2C+n%E6r+delt+med+Sharp+XVZ21000.+Sharp+ha dde+det+aller+beste+sortniv%E5et%2C+mens+JVC+gikk+%22enormt% 22+h%F8yt+i+det+lyse+-+p%E5+minimal+bekostning+av+det+m%F8rke.+Bravo%21%0D%0A%0D%0 ASony+VPL-VW50+var+n%F8ytral+og+flott%2C+mens+Epson+sin+modell+EMP-TW1000+m%E5tte+se+seg+sl%E5tt+av+nykommeren+Planar+PD7130+%2 8720p%29+og+Infocus+IN78.%0D%0A%0D%0ADeretter+kom+Projection design+M20+og+Epsons+andre%2C+EMP-TW700.%0D%0A%0D%0AHvor+Projectiondesign+Model+Three+havner+b lant+disse...+%3F+Tja%2C+med+%28sin+stive+pris%29+og+sitt+re lativt+d%E5rlige+sortniv%E5%3B+mellom+Planar+og+Infocus%2C+k anskje%3F+Bevares%2C+den+var+skarp%2C+men+sortniv%E5et+da+ma nn..&from=nor&to=eng

Other than pictures and some brief text in Norwegian at the beginning of the thread, there seems to be no real content.

You say the attendees were most impressed by the JVC--was this a blind test, or did they know which projector they were looking at?

It was not a blind test. The shootouy is ongooing yesterday and today arranged by AVforum the Norwegian equivalent of AVS forum. Since it is ongooing not many have written in their responses yet, the ones that have done hav preferede the JVC, ond second place the Sharp. More responses will come (The name plates are for the nics on the Norwegian forum, the fantacy is great...)

The screen was a wite 1.1 gain from Euroscreen. the projected image vas beetween 2 and 3 meters wide.

Here is a link to the wole tread, more impressions will be posted in the end of the tread probably (for the few ones that actually understand Norwegian...)

http://avforum.no/forum/generell-info/48085-arets-bildebegivenhet-projektor-2007-arrangementet-fullt-venteliste-settes-opp.html

Very nice turnout. Thats pretty cool that Norway has such a large active HT community. Cant wait to hear the results. 8) Thanks for that link.

Links whit pictures from an Norwegan shootout-that was arranged yesterday. The contenders where:

Projectiondesign Action! Modell Three med Crystalio II, 1080 DLP
JVC HD-1, 1080 DiLA NYHET!
Sony VW50 "Pearl", 1080 SXRD
Sharp XV-Z21000, 1080 DLP
Mitsubishi HC5000, 1080 LCD
Epson TW1000, 1080 LCD NYHET!
InFocus IN78, 720 DLP
Epson TW700, 720 LCD

All projectors calibrated in an not ideal room. The atendees was most imressed by the JVC, the clear vinner of the shootout. I was unfortuanately not able to attend...

http://avforum.no/forum/587139-post261.html

Heja thanks for the link, I was wondering if there was anybody present representing the various manufacturers, ie. in particular at JVC?

I don't think so, if it was probably only someome from the Norwegian importer. The calibration of all the projectors were done by a Norwegian AV magasine reporter.

Despite my ethusiasm at this projector being affordable like PEARL, my personal AB comparison between Sharp 21000 and Sony W50 did not tell W50 is better than 21000. How can JVC using a similar technology like W50 beat 21000?

Despite my ethusiasm at this projector being affordable like PEARL, my personal AB comparison between Sharp 21000 and Sony W50 did not tell W50 is better than 21000. How can JVC using a similar technology like W50 beat 21000?

Ergo all DLP's must be equal to the Sharp because they use similar/same techology ? I was a Pearl owner and in my HT the JVC produces much better PQ. :)

Dazzer

It will be nice when someday we can all click on to a interesting forum like that one in Norway and translate it into intelligible English or any language of one's choosing. Can't someone come up with a language translation software that works better than what we have access to at the present? You get the gist of what's being said but it's got a long way to go that's for sure.

Wayne

Dazzerxxx
Thanks.
My neighbor has its Pearl installed for two months. I had no problem in viewing in his HT room but only felt giddy when comparing to 12000
I won't hesitate to buy JVC cos it is more affordable and............I believe a three chipped 1080p DLP projector will be available to us in a few years time

Despite my ethusiasm at this projector being affordable like PEARL, my personal AB comparison between Sharp 21000 and Sony W50 did not tell W50 is better than 21000. How can JVC using a similar technology like W50 beat 21000?

I don't know how the JVC using "similar" tech can beat the Sony, but JVC is different at least enough that it's not exactly the same as sony LCOS. All we know is that cine4home's tests and the many owners out there are reporting that the JVC has very good contrast and black levels, better than Pearl and is sharp and looks good overall.

Here is a link to the wole tread, more impressions will be posted in the end of the tread probably (for the few ones that actually understand Norwegian...)

http://avforum.no/forum/generell-info/48085-arets-bildebegivenhet-projektor-2007-arrangementet-fullt-venteliste-settes-opp.html

Heja,
Can you translate those findings in plain english ?
I've tried with Intertran automated translation... but lots of terms are really dubious..

thanks
Emanuele

http://avforum.no/forum/generell-info/48085-arets-bildebegivenhet-projektor-2007-arrangementet-fullt-venteliste-settes-opp.html

Fantastisk!

(About all I could understand :)

I've been searching for a while, because I hate making redundant posts. Does anyone know what the street selling price is? I'm trying to decide between the Panasonic PT-AE1000U and the JVC DLA-RS1.

Thanks in advance!

I believe a three chipped 1080p DLP projector will be available to us in a few years time
Runco has several 1080p 3-chip DLP projectors in their product lineup, so it won't be years before these are available. They're here now, or will be very shortly.

Cannot really post street prices here. Ask AVS for price quotes on their products first. As far as I know they carry the JVC and Mitsubishi and probably the Epson and Panny too :)

I've been searching for a while, because I hate making redundant posts. Does anyone know what the street selling price is? I'm trying to decide between the Panasonic PT-AE1000U and the JVC DLA-RS1.

Thanks in advance!

MSRP is (I think) $6299 for the RS1.
Contact Tryg at AVS for your best 'now' pricing.

Tryg Hoff
Sales - Reviews
A/V Science Inc.
360-280-7077 (M-F 5-9 PST, Wkds)
tryghoff@gmail.com

Thanks for the fast replies, I just sent an e-mail to Tryg.

On another note, in the avforum, why wasn't the panny 1000U in the line up? Is it's performance that bad compared to the others? For the past month I thought the Panny was the best 1080p projector out there. (according to the projectorcentral review) If this should belong in another thread, I apologize.

For everyone who lives in the Toronto area... I was in Bay Bloor Radio on Saturday and I was asking them about the RS1/HD1. Apparently they will be having a demo night(s) in the next 1 to 2 weeks. I will post additional information when they call me to confirm the dates.

BTW, they expect the unit to sell for approximately $7,000.00.

Bill

RX-8:

Thanks for the information. Although I am interested in attending I should note that i would never purchase anything from them as they are far and away the most expensive place to shop in the Toronto area -- at least, based on my experience.

For everyone who lives in the Toronto area... I was in Bay Bloor Radio on Saturday and I was asking them about the RS1/HD1. Apparently they will be having a demo night(s) in the next 1 to 2 weeks. I will post additional information when they call me to confirm the dates.

BTW, they expect the unit to sell for approximately $7,000.00.

Bill


AWESOME!

I live 5 minutes from Bay Bloor Radio. I've been luxuriating in their demo of the Panasonic 103" plasma for months now. The Panny was taking up the room normally used for demoing their projectors. I was told the Panny was leaving soon so I guess that makes room for the JVC demo.

Can't wait. Keep us informed, please.

(Or...heck...I guess I can pick up the phone and get info too...)

Heja,
Can you translate those findings in plain english ?
I've tried with Intertran automated translation... but lots of terms are really dubious..

thanks
Emanuele

Sure thing - I speak Norwegian. It translates to "IT...IS...AWESOME!!" :D

Yeah, I would be game for a demo at Bay Bloor too :) ..that is as long they demo it in a reasonabley bat cave like environment, at least for part of the demo :cool:

Searched this forum but it appears this question has never been asked here -- I live at 6100 feet and according to manual Installation Height: Below 5000 ft (Approx. 1524 hm).

I can see that it does have High Altitude mode (Select this when using the projector in a location of low atmospheric pressure higher than 900 meters above sea level), but it appears one can't go above 5000 ft -- does anybody know if it will work properly on 6100 (HT is in the basement where temperature varies between 60 in winter and 70 in summer).

Thanks, Davie.

Yeah, I would be game for a demo at Bay Bloor too :) ..that is as long they demo it in a reasonabley bat cave like environment, at least for part of the demo :cool:

When the doors are closed in the projector demo room it's pretty "bat-cave-like."

For everyone who lives in the Toronto area... I was in Bay Bloor Radio on Saturday and I was asking them about the RS1/HD1. Apparently they will be having a demo night(s) in the next 1 to 2 weeks. I will post additional information when they call me to confirm the dates.

BTW, they expect the unit to sell for approximately $7,000.00.

Bill

I talked to someone in sales at Bay Bloor (purportedly, projector sales) and he was clueless on the subject of the JVC coming in for demo. So it looks like I'll be relying on info you can provide, rx-8. Please update us (or if you can remember, could you PM me when anything solid is learned on when the demo will happen?).

Thanks.

I will post the information here once available.

Searched this forum but it appears this question has never been asked here -- I live at 6100 feet and according to manual Installation Height: Below 5000 ft (Approx. 1524 hm).

I can see that it does have High Altitude mode (Select this when using the projector in a location of low atmospheric pressure higher than 900 meters above sea level), but it appears one can't go above 5000 ft -- does anybody know if it will work properly on 6100 (HT is in the basement where temperature varies between 60 in winter and 70 in summer).

Thanks, Davie.

Davie,
At the demo I attended here in Denver, the RS-1 was set in High Altitude mode during the entire demo. This meant that the fan was running at a higher speed. The question was asked if the projector could handle the altitude and the JVC folks thought it should be able to as long as you ran it in with the higher fan speed.
I have not heard of any issues or JVC saying specifically that this projector should not be used above 5000 ft. The demo was being given in Centennial and that is higher than 5300 ft. I believe.
We might want to get a clarification from Tom Stites as to any issues related to operating this projector at altitudes great than 5000 ft.
I would like to know since mine will be shipped soon...... :eek:

Davie,
At the demo I attended here in Denver, the RS-1 was set in High Altitude mode during the entire demo. This meant that the fan was running at a higher speed. The question was asked if the projector could handle the altitude and the JVC folks thought it should be able to as long as you ran it in with the higher fan speed.
I have not heard of any issues or JVC saying specifically that this projector should not be used above 5000 ft. The demo was being given in Centennial and that is higher than 5300 ft. I believe.
We might want to get a clarification from Tom Stites as to any issues related to operating this projector at altitudes great than 5000 ft.
I would like to know since mine will be shipped soon...... :eek:


I would also like to know as I live in Denver!

Hmm, sounds like we all just moved up two spots on the preorder list. 8)

Hmm, sounds like we all just moved up two spots on the preorder list. 8)

I will move to sea level before I give up my spot! :p

Actually, I am already there right now since I am out of town. Maybe I will just stay here in Oregon!

Hmm, sounds like we all just moved up two spots on the preorder list. 8)

You wish....... :D

Actually I PM'd Mr. tstites and he assured me there would be no problems with operating this unit over 5000 ft., as long as the fan is run in High Altitude mode.
Now having said that the manual does state that the recommended operating altitude is 5000 ft. or less. Kind of makes you wonder why they put that statement in the manual??? Does that mean that JVC would not honor the warranty for those operating the projector at greater than 5000 ft., I don't know. I kind of doubt it. I trust that JVC would honor the warranty for all of us Mile High dwellers.

Whew! I'm at 4,995 feet here in Utah.

Whew! I'm at 4,995 feet here in Utah.Don't forget about density altitude :)

I don't understand this high altitude issue. I mean it'd not like these things are breathing and are affected by lack of oxygen, is it?

I don't understand this high altitude issue. I mean it'd not like these things are breathing and are affected by lack of oxygen, is it?


I dont understand it either. All I know is I have NEVER run any projector in high altitude mode living in Denver (because of increased noise) and I have NEVER had any obvious problems.

What are the consequences of not using high altitude mode? How could the unit malfunction? I would think the worst that could happen is a bit shorter bulb life at the most, but I am guessing. Anybody know? :confused:

I don't understand this high altitude issue. I mean it'd not like these things are breathing and are affected by lack of oxygen, is it?

Think about air density and the cooling capacity - basic physics. The thinner the air is (due to lower pressure at high altitudes), the less heat energy a given volume of air can absorb and carry out of the projector.

I dont understand it either. All I know is I have NEVER run any projector in high altitude mode living in Denver (because of increased noise) and I have NEVER had any obvious problems.

What are the consequences of not using high altitude mode? How could the unit malfunction? I would think the worst that could happen is a bit shorter bulb life at the most, but I am guessing. Anybody know? :confused:

Since the air is about 27% less dense at Denver elevation compared to sea level the fan in normal mode just can't pump enough air to cool off the bulb, hence there is a possibility of PJ overheating if high altitude mode is not used.

Having said that, it also depends on your HT conditions IMO -- as I mentioned in summer the temperature in my HT never goes above 70 and I never had any problems with my Sharp DLP overheating without using HA mode -- I see no reason why RS1 wouldn't work fine at 70 degrees with no humidity on 6000 elevation.

Cheers, Davie.

Think about air density and the cooling capacity - basic physics. The thinner the air is (due to lower pressure at high altitudes), the less heat energy a given volume of air can absorb and carry out of the projector.
Gotcha! Thanks.

Think about air density and the cooling capacity - basic physics. The thinner the air is (due to lower pressure at high altitudes), the less heat energy a given volume of air can absorb and carry out of the projector.

Thanks for the explanation. I obviously was not listening that day :)

You wish....... :D

Actually I PM'd Mr. tstites and he assured me there would be no problems with operating this unit over 5000 ft., as long as the fan is run in High Altitude mode.
Now having said that the manual does state that the recommended operating altitude is 5000 ft. or less. Kind of makes you wonder why they put that statement in the manual??? Does that mean that JVC would not honor the warranty for those operating the projector at greater than 5000 ft., I don't know. I kind of doubt it. I trust that JVC would honor the warranty for all of us Mile High dwellers.

Hey Keith, thanks for info from tstites -- that makes me feel better :) . The other good piece of news is that Integrity Home Theater in Colorado Springs is going to sell RS1 and these guys are very good with all elevation related issues in PJs (Spring btw is above 7000 feet), so they must know something that we don't.
I am in Timbers btw (little south of you).

Davie.

Since the air is about 27% less dense at Denver elevation compared to sea level the fan in normal mode just can't pump enough air to cool off the bulb, hence there is a possibility of PJ overheating if high altitude mode is not used.

Having said that, it also depends on your HT conditions IMO -- as I mentioned in summer the temperature in my HT never goes above 70 and I never had any problems with my Sharp DLP overheating without using HA mode -- I see no reason why RS1 wouldn't work fine at 70 degrees with no humidity on 6000 elevation.

Cheers, Davie.


I have never had any problems either, and have never used HA mode. However, my theater is the coldest room in the house in the summer, and on par with the rest of the house in the winter. We keep the house cool which sounds like it may help.

"Whew! I'm at 4,995 feet here in Utah. "

You just can't do a ceiling mount:)

Hey, this brought a little excitement to this thread. You 'flat landers' seem to be running out of things to talk about in this thread. So the Mile High folks had to come up with something to get excited about. Most of us are just sitting around waiting on a tracking number from AVS.

BTW, I've never had an issue with my Sim projector here at altitude. It only has 1 speed. I don't know what effect, if any, thin air has on the bulb life. Like Davie I keep my theater about the same temperature year round by regulating the airflow. It's pretty easy to do with a basement in Colorado and I don't have a dedicated HVAC for the theater.

Cmon guys, whats Tom supposed to say? Remember he is trying to sell you some JVC product. 8)

We all know if you guys get these PJs that arent rated for tolerances 5000 ft above sea level that they could potentially lead to the interpretation that you, if I can quote from the small print in the JVC manual, "used the projector in a manner that constitutes abuse and therefore SOL on the warranty." 8(

You guys might as well tear open your PJs and take pictures, sort of like ekkehart did, if you guys buy these projectors. Personally, if I was in your spot I wouldnt take the risk and would probably just buy a Sony Pearl. 8)

..... Personally, if I was in your spot I wouldnt take the risk and would probably just buy a Sony Pearl. 8)You think Sony bulbs are designed for high altitude?

Seems to me that the JVC warranty 2-yr P&L, 6-Mo/600-hr bulb, beats Sony's 2-yr P&L and 90-days bulb.

"Whew! I'm at 4,995 feet here in Utah. "

You just can't do a ceiling mount:)

LOL! :D

I think if I were faced with having to use HA mode I'd look for another option... with that I mean another option to make this PJ work w/o having to listen to the the fan on high.

I'd try leaving the PJ in normal mode and add a small pusher fan over the air intake. Small and inexpensive fans used for computers these days are very quite and I'd think this would more than make up the difference needed to ensure the safety your PJ needs. I'd be willing to bet a small fan placed over the intake alone would drop temps 20*F or more... with little extra noise (certainly not as much as you'll hear with the PJ in HA mode.

:)

Don't forget about density altitude :)

If the home theater is air conditioned, wouldn't that be pressure altitude? (Does this amount to pilot humor?)

--Galvin

I am planing on using a 123" Stewart FH with my Rs1. Do you think with some ambient light the Rs1 will be bright enough at this size? Projecting from about 18 feet. I think that gives me around 15 to 17 FL. Am I correct there? Thanks for any of your thoughts.

If the home theater is air conditioned, wouldn't that be pressure altitude? (Does this amount to pilot humor?)

--GalvinYes, it was humor, but if you know about Density Altitude, even at 3500 ft you could easily be be at a density altitude over 5000 feet. I seriously doubt that there would be any warranty issues, however, the thin air will affect cooling efficiency (with the thinner air, the fan should not be making any more noise because it is caused by the amount of air being moved >>>> thinner air = less air movement, it could be quieter than one here at sea level. I would consider locating A/C ducting near the projector air intake, and would be cautious with high elevations and warm days or forced air heating. The affects of Density Altitude and aircraft can be serious. The air can be so thin that an airplane cannot take off unless it has a longer runway and/or eliminates some weight (fuel, baggage, passengers, etc.)

Remember that all the manufacturers brought projectors to CEDIA and had them running all day. I don't know if there were any failures due to over heating, but in a conditioned room the problem should be minimized, you may need to keep it a little cooler than normal.

Hi guys,
Just found this thread. I'm in Golden, CO at 7700'. Kinda' freaked when I read the manual about 5000' operating limit. I'm feeling a bit better now that the altitude issue is related to heat and now a D-ILA panel issue. (Similar to the problems with Plasma's buzzing at high altitudes). I have my current Marantz PJ hanging on a pole with no obstructions and have never had any heat issues.

Yes, it was humor, but if you know about Density Altitude, even at 3500 ft you could easily be be at a density altitude over 5000 feet. ....

Actually, it can be a lot worse than that. A few years ago in Phoenix we hit 122F and the density altitude was so high it was off the charts which specify the V1 and V2 speeds and max weight for takeoff (which, IIRC, go up to something like 20,000 feet). So those aircraft were grounded until after dusk when the temperture dropped back down.

So just keep the temperture in your HT at 40F and you can run in low fan mode. ;) :D

I went to one of the several local Magnolia stores today and talked to one of the guys there about the RS/HD-1. He said he was fully aware of all the hype and said he knew several people on the AVS pre-buy. He also said that he was told today by a Magnolia higher-up that corporate decided NOT to sell the HD-1!!! He said he was told the decision was based on two "facts"... LCOS projectors drastically lose bulb output within the first 300-500 hours and they've had terrible success with JVC QC and reliability in their rear projection LCOS TVs. He said front projectors are unreliable enough as it is... couple that to their experience with JVC's rear projection TVs and Magnolia decided it wasn't worth the risk. Having said that, I viewed a Pearl there today with 1500 hours on the bulb and I found it plenty bright. The screen appeared to be about 100" diagonally and he said it was 1.25 gain and made by Stewart. I find that exciting given the JVC should be brighter than the Pearl.

One other thing he said was Magnolia is going to demo the Optoma HD81 with the optional anamorphic lens on a scope screen in two stores in Washington. If the response is good, they'll start carrying it in other stores.

I went to one of the several local Magnolia stores today and talked to one of the guys there about the RS/HD-1. He said he was fully aware of all the hype and said he knew several people on the AVS pre-buy. He also said that he was told today by a Magnolia higher-up that corporate decided NOT to sell the HD-1!!! He said he was told the decision was based on two "facts"... LCOS projectors drastically lose bulb output within the first 300-500 hours and they've had terrible success with JVC QC and reliability in their rear projection LCOS TVs. He said front projectors are unreliable enough as it is... couple that to their experience with JVC's rear projection TVs and Magnolia decided it wasn't worth the risk. Having said that, I viewed a Pearl there today with 1500 hours on the bulb and I found it plenty bright. The screen appeared to be about 100" diagonally and he said it was 1.25 gain and made by Stewart. I find that exciting given the JVC should be brighter than the Pearl.

One other thing he said was Magnolia is going to demo the Optoma HD81 with the optional anamorphic lens on a scope screen in two stores in Washington. If the response is good, they'll start carrying it in other stores.

Now that's funny! They won't carry the JVC because of concerns over reliability/QC but they might carry the HD81!?!?! :eek:

You may want to direct that Magnolia employee to the HD81 thread at AVS!

I did crack a smile when he said that ;).

I don't believe the bulb quote as almost all other FP's don't lose that much output that fast. Most bulbs are very similar, so it should last longer than that. Was he the guy who said you have to refill your Plasma screens every year? ;)

P.S. It's hard for a salesperson to gush over a product they aren't carrying. ;)

I went to one of the several local Magnolia stores today and talked to one of the guys there about the RS/HD-1. He said he was fully aware of all the hype and said he knew several people on the AVS pre-buy. He also said that he was told today by a Magnolia higher-up that corporate decided NOT to sell the HD-1!!! He said he was told the decision was based on two "facts"... LCOS projectors drastically lose bulb output within the first 300-500 hours and they've had terrible success with JVC QC and reliability in their rear projection LCOS TVs. He said front projectors are unreliable enough as it is... couple that to their experience with JVC's rear projection TVs and Magnolia decided it wasn't worth the risk. Having said that, I viewed a Pearl there today with 1500 hours on the bulb and I found it plenty bright. The screen appeared to be about 100" diagonally and he said it was 1.25 gain and made by Stewart. I find that exciting given the JVC should be brighter than the Pearl.

One other thing he said was Magnolia is going to demo the Optoma HD81 with the optional anamorphic lens on a scope screen in two stores in Washington. If the response is good, they'll start carrying it in other stores.

I can't comment on the reliability of the JVC units.

However to say that LCOS loses bulb output in the first 300-500 hours and then to talk about the Pearl is a bit naive considering:

-Pearl is essentially LCOS anyway, just with a different name
-It is the bulb that is losing output, so it depends on the bulb not whether it is DLP/LCD/LCOS.

"Whew! I'm at 4,995 feet here in Utah. "

You just can't do a ceiling mount:)

I'm in real trouble. I do need a ceiling mount.

Where I live it's below sea level...

Where do you live Death Valley? Grand Canyon? :D

i'm guessing the netherlands.

I went to one of the several local Magnolia stores today and talked to one of the guys there about the RS/HD-1. He said he was fully aware of all the hype and said he knew several people on the AVS pre-buy. He also said that he was told today by a Magnolia higher-up that corporate decided NOT to sell the HD-1!!! He said he was told the decision was based on two "facts"... LCOS projectors drastically lose bulb output within the first 300-500 hours and they've had terrible success with JVC QC and reliability in their rear projection LCOS TVs. He said front projectors are unreliable enough as it is... couple that to their experience with JVC's rear projection TVs and Magnolia decided it wasn't worth the risk.
Looks like corporate made two decisions - one not to carry it and the other to badmouth it in favor of the competing products that they do sell.

Looks like corporate made two decisions - one not to carry it and the other to badmouth it in favor of the competing products that they do sell. All the better and my pleasure to kick their butts with RS1 sales!

Well I am in the New Orleans area. I may be below sea level too? What do you guys think?:D

I'm in real trouble. I do need a ceiling mount.

Where I live it's below sea level...No, just a water tight enclosure.....

I can't comment on the reliability of the JVC units...

Pultzar... maybe you misunderstood. I was happy the Pearl looked bright because it made the salesman look like he was talking out of his ass. I know SXRD and D-ILA are essentially the same, and it reassured me that my image with my soon to be delivered RS-1 should be plenty bright throughout the life of the bulb.

I switched from wanting a Pearl to the JVC RS1 and am happily awaiting delivery. My dealer tells me there are only ten left of the order for fifty at a great price that makes it very competitive with the Pearl. You can PM me for more information. This is an exciting time for home theater enthusiasts!

I loved Mark's review of the RS-1. Does anyone know if JVC has indeed added the 2.35:1 CH Stretch as per Mark's posting "- The RS1 currently doesn't do this, but this is one feature that JVC wants to add before the product ships"? I have tried to contact JVC and nobody can answer this or even understands the question. Does anyone have a contact at JVC whom I can ask this question? I am ready to purchase and would prefer a 2.35:1 screen. Any suggestions on the anamorphic lens to buy? thanks, so much

Vertical stretch is NOT implemented, and there are no official plans to do so at this time.

I'm not sure this thread is getting the attention it once received now that there is an "Owners" thread. However, as a wannabe (anxiously awaiting 2nd round shipments) owner who wants to check covergence once my unit arrives, I was curious what the on-board JVC DLA-RS1 test patterns depicted. I could have my installer perform initial callibration check, but hoped to be able to do some of this myself.


In order to check convergence on a 1080p unit, I am guessing I should be feeding it 1080p signal. I do have a Blu-Ray unit but am not aware of any blu-ray calibration disks at this time.
Any ideas?

I dont have my RS1 yet, but apparently there is an internal test pattern that will work convergence check/adjust I am told by a few RS1 owners.

I'm not sure this thread is getting the attention it once received now that there is an "Owners" thread. However, as a wannabe (anxiously awaiting 2nd round shipments) owner who wants to check covergence once my unit arrives, I was curious what the on-board JVC DLA-RS1 test patterns depicted. I could have my installer perform initial callibration check, but hoped to be able to do some of this myself.

In order to check convergence on a 1080p unit, I am guessing I should be feeding it 1080p signal. I do have a Blu-Ray unit but am not aware of any blu-ray calibration disks at this time.
Any ideas?
Perhaps now that there are actual owners, our questions would best be addressed to them? This thread was fueled by a few nuggets of truth and much more rampant speculation with very few posters having actually seen a unit, and none having any contact with a production unit. Now that the first round has been received, that has changed and we can take advantage of the new owners (' experience).

I agree that questions should be moved to the owners thread, where Toe's has already been covered.

I'm not sure this thread is getting the attention it once received now that there is an "Owners" thread. However, as a wannabe (anxiously awaiting 2nd round shipments) owner who wants to check covergence once my unit arrives, I was curious what the on-board JVC DLA-RS1 test patterns depicted. I could have my installer perform initial callibration check, but hoped to be able to do some of this myself.


In order to check convergence on a 1080p unit, I am guessing I should be feeding it 1080p signal. I do have a Blu-Ray unit but am not aware of any blu-ray calibration disks at this time.
Any ideas?
There are several internal test patterns included in the RS1, I didn't find any of them useful for testing MC. There is a grid pattern included, but it only uses the green panel so it's of no use for testing MC.

FWIW, I ended up using two different THX calibration patterns included within my BR copy of T2.

BTW, I understand AVIA will be releasing a HD BR version of their popular test disc sometime around May.

There are several internal test patterns included in the RS1, I didn't find any of them useful for testing MC. There is a grid pattern included, but it only uses the green panel so it's of no use for testing MC.

FWIW, I ended up using two different THX calibration patterns included within my BR copy of T2.

I thought it was odd that only a green grid was included in the RS1. A white grid would have been very useful for setup but I don't know what a person would use the green grid for unless it's to align the projector onto the screen and a simple full white image or even the blue image with video blanked is fine.

I thought it was odd that only a green grid was included in the RS1.

The Pearl is the same way - green grid only. I find I curious also.

I currently am using a Runco 1100 CRT on a 1.3 screen. I am at the point at which the 9" tubes should probably be replaced. However, despite the condition of the tubes my experience over the past few years with this projector has been very good. All of the cumbersome aspects of converging and tweaking this beast notwithstanding it will be hard to move on.
And yet, I have been following the posts on the RS1 with great interest. Has anyone made the switch directly from a high quality CRT to an RS1 or similar type display and, if so, I would be interested in any recommendations or opinions concerning your experiences.
I am going to make a switch at some point in the near future. Is now that time?

I currently am using a Runco 1100 CRT on a 1.3 screen. I am at the point at which the 9" tubes should probably be replaced. However, despite the condition of the tubes my experience over the past few years with this projector has been very good. All of the cumbersome aspects of converging and tweaking this beast notwithstanding it will be hard to move on.
And yet, I have been following the posts on the RS1 with great interest. Has anyone made the switch directly from a high quality CRT to an RS1 or similar type display and, if so, I would be interested in any recommendations or opinions concerning your experiences.
I am going to make a switch at some point in the near future. Is now that time?Alan,
The cost of re-tubing your 1100 will be more than the RS1 will cost. You could buy a RS1 to evaluate it (if you cannot get a local demo), keep it if you like it, or, if you don't, sell it and have the 1100 re-tubed. Selling the RS1 may be better than the restocking fee.

I thought it was odd that only a green grid was included in the RS1. A white grid would have been very useful for setup but I don't know what a person would use the green grid for unless it's to align the projector onto the screen and a simple full white image or even the blue image with video blanked is fine.
My cheapo HD1000U has the same pattern but even it utilizes a white grid... I have no clue what the green grid would possibly be used for. :confused:

My cheapo HD1000U has the same pattern but even it utilizes a white grid... I have no clue what the green grid would possibly be used for. :confused:
Geometry?

Geometry?My guess would be focus and setup, zoom, etc. Very easy to focus on one color.

My guess would be focus and setup, zoom, etc. Very easy to focus on one color.
Heh, at least they didn't make it blue. ;)

I moved from a barco graphics 800 CRT to a Sony HS10 about 4 years back. When the Barco was running at its best it was a wonder. The Barco was WAY better at playing computer games than the HS10 (with its wacky 1366x768 resolution and 56Hz refresh rate at 1:1 pixel mapping). I will always fondly remember the countless hours spent playing Wing Commander and Privateer on the old CRT. The blacks on the HS10 are horrible compared to the Barco, but I am on the pre-order for the RS1 and I won't ever go back to CRT.

The Barco was a bear in time and expense when it came to maintaining a good image. Over the years it developed a problem where the blue gun's charge wouldn't dissapate properly so it would discharge all at once. The upshot was that the center of the blue gun got burned out, which looked horrible.

This was apparently a problem with the thin air here in Colorado. I had it "fixed" and the blue retubed, but after a few months it started shorting again, so I was done with it. I gave it to my parents who didn't mind that it looked horrible, and I have been more than happy with my little Sony. (Since then they moved on to a cheap DLP projector - and ended up giving the barco away to someone for parts).

The only thing I miss about the Barco was that I would never have any competition for the best seat in the house because no one wanted to sit underneath the small compact car hanging upside down from my basement ceiling. Anyway... my digital projector has been pretty hassle free and has allowed me to focus on other parts of my theater so I can just turn it on and enjoy the show.

Do yourself a favor, and go demo some digitals especially the RS1. I gave up quite a bit going to the HS10, but now digital is finally catching up, and I dont' think the time could be better.

There are several internal test patterns included in the RS1, I didn't find any of them useful for testing MC. There is a grid pattern included, but it only uses the green panel so it's of no use for testing MC.

FWIW, I ended up using two different THX calibration patterns included within my BR copy of T2.

Thanks for the tip. I was buying a couple Blu-Ray disks each week just to keep my mind off the RS-1 shipments and it just so happens that T2 was among them. Will I find the test pattern in the set-up menu?

My guess would be focus and setup, zoom, etc. Very easy to focus on one color.

I've always found the easiest way to focus is with a full white 100 IRE screen and then adjust the focus based on the pixel grid itself.

Thanks for the tip. I was buying a couple Blu-Ray disks each week just to keep my mind off the RS-1 shipments and it just so happens that T2 was among them. Will I find the test pattern in the set-up menu?

A calibration easter egg is located on all Sony BDs.

From the main menu of any Sony BD: type 7669 Enter

This will bring up a series of test patterns. The last test pattern is a 2 pixel wide grid pattern...

Thanks for the input. The problem I have is that the 1100 even as it is has a great picture. But I think the opportunity to get 95% of the performance at 1/7 the price is too good to pass up. And it would still cost about 8-9K to retube.

I currently am using a Runco 1100 CRT on a 1.3 screen. I am at the point at which the 9" tubes should probably be replaced. However, despite the condition of the tubes my experience over the past few years with this projector has been very good. All of the cumbersome aspects of converging and tweaking this beast notwithstanding it will be hard to move on.
And yet, I have been following the posts on the RS1 with great interest. Has anyone made the switch directly from a high quality CRT to an RS1 or similar type display and, if so, I would be interested in any recommendations or opinions concerning your experiences.
I am going to make a switch at some point in the near future. Is now that time?

I have a Sony G70 for past 8 years and even though it does not resolve the 1920x1080 HD, it looks gorgeous on my 87" wide 1.78 steward screen. Even well transferred DVDs through the Faroudja nrs processor look close to my ota/cable hd broadcasts. But, I'm jonezin' for a 'scope' set up of 122x52 for 2.35 movies, especially now with the HD disc formats available. Most of the reports so far indicate that it's black level is one of the best, at least in the sub 20,000 price range and there is no concern about rainbow effect of spinning color wheels or the other sometimes reported problem with single DLP of dithering effect.
Of course the 3 chip 1080 DLPs are reported to be very worthy competitors to the 9" CRT, but with prices exceeding $25,000 puts them out of my reach, but as time passes they will drop and by then the RS1 performance may well be surpassed at a price point perhaps not far from it's current level.
joe

A calibration easter egg is located on all Sony BDs.

From the main menu of any Sony BD: type 7669 Enter

This will bring up a series of test patterns. The last test pattern is a 2 pixel wide grid pattern...
This is true. There is also some THX stuff within one of the menus on the T2 BR disc... this might be present in other discs, but T2 is the only one I've noticed the THX stuff on.

Is it the groups' consensus that the best input for the RS1 is HDMI and, that the oversaturated colors, some describe, are remdiated with the HDMI over component? If so, I will buy the Oppo-981 to replace my Kenwood Sovereign DV-5700 (an older but goody Faroudja based player.)
Any thoughts. The wait is killing me!!!! :D

Regards,
Dom

Is it the groups' consensus that the best input for the RS1 is HDMI and, that the oversaturated colors, some describe, are remdiated with the HDMI over component? If so, I will buy the Oppo-981 to replace my Kenwood Sovereign DV-5700 (an older but goody Faroudja based player.)
Any thoughts. The wait is killing me!!!! :D

Regards,
Dom
HDMI will give you better results until they come out with a FW update. In the mean time, I can tell you in fact that the oversaturation problem is present with HDMI as well. I've tested it with HD-DVD and BR over HDMI... it's there.

The throw starts at 1.4x screen width right? Does the contrast and bright corners get better at 1.5-1.6-1.7, or does it need to go even further back?

can anyone answer me if this Vogel wall mount can be used for RS-1. My PJ has arrived over one week without mounting and I finally find
http://www.vogels.com/detail.asp?ISSAID=572&bLarge=true

can anyone answer me if this Vogel wall mount can be used for RS-1. My PJ has arrived over one week without mounting and I finally find
http://www.vogels.com/detail.asp?ISSAID=572&bLarge=trueI wouldn't use it. It says maximum weight 22lbs and the projector is 25lbs.

This may have been asked before, but I could not find it through the search. What's the best way to play DVD's? Through an Oppo-981 and let it output 1080p, or Oppo-970 and let it output 480i or 480p? Basically which processor will work better, RS1 or Oppo?

At the moment, the 981HD would be the better choice. The RS-1 adds about 2.5-3% overscan to a 480i input, so you'd be losing some of the picture. Also, from some of the reports, it appears that the RS-1's deinterlacing is not as good as the Faroudja's (in the 981HD). As I have both players, I'll be checking that once I get an RS-1 (hopefully next week).

The 970 can also output 1080i to the RS1; this might be better than 480i/p. (I'm outputting 1080i from my Pio 59avi to the RS1, via HDMI, and works very well, at least so far as I can tell.)

Thanks Mike, Please update me on the results. I am purchasing an HD-XA2 for the HD-DVD's and looking for a good DVD player for the intro DVD. It looks like I will most likely be using the 970. If the only difference is 1080i and 1080p, I dont think there will be a noticeable difference in picture quality.

If the only difference is 1080i and 1080p, I dont think there will be a noticeable difference in picture quality.

Well, there also is the difference in the deinterlacing and scaling engines used (Faroudja vs. Mediatek). I don't know yet how it will look with the RS-1, but using the 981HD with other 1080p displays has resulted in a noticeable PQ improvement. See my reviews on the Spot for more info.

"I am purchasing an HD-XA2 for the HD-DVD's and looking for a good DVD player for the intro DVD."

I don't know what you mean by intro DVD, but every review of the XA2 says what a marvelous job it does upconverting SD DVD, so I'd use it.

I will be using the xa2 for watching dvd's, the intro I'm talking about is the CeRT intro and tiko intro by bitanimtion. (6.1 sound intro with welcome to blank home theater, enjoy the show). Thanks for letting me know about the diferent processors I didn't even notice that. I though they were both Faroudja.

I will be using the xa2 for watching dvd's, the intro I'm talking about is the CeRT intro and tiko intro by bitanimtion. (6.1 sound intro with welcome to blank home theater, enjoy the show). Thanks for letting me know about the diferent processors I didn't even notice that. I though they were both Faroudja.

I have the XA2 and feed it to the RS1 at 1080p. Upconverted SD DVDs look stunning. Someone less experienced in HT could easily think it was true HD material. Of course its only as good as the original source but does one heck of a job.

Lovingdvd

Are you using any features of the XA2 with the RS1? I'm using the NR for SD DVD set on 2 and SD has never looked better.

Glad to hear the XA2 is working well upconverting SD DVDs with the RS1. Question: are you using the latest firmware for the XA2 (1.3)? The reason I ask is that Bob Sorrel reported a few weeks ago that his XA2 upconverted SD DVDs with his RS1 WORSE after he did the firmware update! Perhaps this was a fluke.

My XA2 has firmware version 1.0. Update should be on its way this week. Don't have the RS1 yet, but the XA2 works great with my Epson 400 for both HD and SD.

EDIT: The A2 didn't do as well with SD.

I agree, the XA2 rocks on my RS-1 with regular DVD !
I feed my RS-1 1080P out of the XA2, but not sure I can tell the diff when feeding it 1080i.

Also, I was just watching The Deer Hunter in HD-DVD, which is "old & grainy".
I liked the Toshiba sharpening at 1 ( possibly 2 ) and using the RS-1 noise reduction at 15-20.
The combined result brought out nice detail, but removed lots of grain/noise.
I could not get the desired end result without utilizing the features in BOTH pieces.

- Andy

Lovingdvd

Are you using any features of the XA2 with the RS1? I'm using the NR for SD DVD set on 2 and SD has never looked better.

No, never felt the need to use that so have everything at its default (off). Will experiment if I notice something looks off.

Glad to hear the XA2 is working well upconverting SD DVDs with the RS1. Question: are you using the latest firmware for the XA2 (1.3)? The reason I ask is that Bob Sorrel reported a few weeks ago that his XA2 upconverted SD DVDs with his RS1 WORSE after he did the firmware update! Perhaps this was a fluke.

Yes I am aware of what Bob reported on this. I have the 1.3 firmware and everything looks fine - I'm not seeing the issue.

I wouldn't use it. It says maximum weight 22lbs and the projector is 25lbs.
I am a complete dummy when it comes to home improvement, and even I was able to build an RS1 shelf for $20 at Home Depot. Shopping list:

Hardware aisle:
(2) 20" D x 12" H steel shelf brackets
bag of #8 machine screws
bag of #8 washers
bag of #8 wing nuts
box of drywall mounts (or other as appropriate for your wall)

Lumber aisle:
1/2" thick sanded plywood, cut to about 22" x 20"

I painted it the same time I painted the rear wall. Naturally I yanked on it pretty hard before sitting my precious projector on it; I estimate it holds 100lb or more.

I am a complete dummy when it comes to home improvement, and even I was able to build an RS1 shelf for $20 at Home Depot. Shopping list:

Hardware aisle:
(2) 20" D x 12" H steel shelf brackets
bag of #8 machine screws
bag of #8 washers
bag of #8 wing nuts
box of drywall mounts (or other as appropriate for your wall)

Lumber aisle:
1/2" thick sanded plywood, cut to about 22" x 20"

I painted it the same time I painted the rear wall. Naturally I yanked on it pretty hard before sitting my precious projector on it; I estimate it holds 100lb or more.

You are a braver man than I if you are trusting your RS1 to the strength of drywall alone. :)

You are a braver man than I if you are trusting your RS1 to the strength of drywall alone. :)

Maybe he installed into at least one stud?

Each bracket is screwed into (3) 50lb drywall mounts over a 12" range. Like I said, I yanked on it pretty hard before trusting the projector to it -- didn't quite do a pullup, but I put most of my weight into it. I'm not worried.

Each bracket is screwed into (3) 50lb drywall mounts over a 12" range. Like I said, I yanked on it pretty hard before trusting the projector to it -- didn't quite do a pullup, but I put most of my weight into it. I'm not worried.
I think some were secretly hoping yours would fall and you'd sell it to them cheap. :)

My RS1 will not accept 1920x1080p60. "Frequency of input signal is out of range." It accepts 1080i60 and 1080p24 and even 1080p50 fine. Testing with PowerStrip, the cutoff point appears to be around 56Hz.

Earlier posts in this thread indicate 60p is supported. Any special tricks required? I love the ability to send 24p on IVTC'd films, but it's totally unwatchable otherwise.

My RS1 will not accept 1920x1080p60. "Frequency of input signal is out of range." It accepts 1080i60 and 1080p24 and even 1080p50 fine. Testing with PowerStrip, the cutoff point appears to be around 56Hz.

Earlier posts in this thread indicate 60p is supported. Any special tricks required? I love the ability to send 24p on IVTC'd films, but it's totally unwatchable otherwise.

1080p60 should work just fine. I assume that the timing that you're using in powerstrip might be the problem. If your vid card directly supports 1080p then you don't need to use powerstrip. I don't use powerstrip for the RS-1 or my HD2K although I did use it for the earlier JVC projectors that had custom resolutions. I don't think that JVC has posted the 1080p timing for the RS-1 but it's probably siimilar to the HD2K which can be found here:
http://www.jvcdig.com/timing%20data/040401HD2K_60p50p_Timing.pdf

I only used powerstrip after normal settings failed. The 24p, 60i, and 50p settings mentioned above were chosen from the standard Windows dialog.

No problems with 1080p /24/50/60 here , powerstrip used.

Incidentally if you are using an HTPC what is your opinion of the performance. i'm underwhelmed with digital TV (sd) from an onboard tuner and dvd vis TT and ffdshow.

The broadcast stuff looks terrible , noisy , aliasing, dvd doesn't look much better : noisy and jaggies. On my Hs20 at 1368x768 it looked much more solid than this. HD-DVD and upscaled dvd via component at 1080i is so much better looking.

I suspect I'm going to be fiddling with my HTPC and maybe upgrading the graphics card in the near future....

I only used powerstrip after normal settings failed. The 24p, 60i, and 50p settings mentioned above were chosen from the standard Windows dialog.

It sounds like a video card driver problem. What video card are you using?


Incidentally if you are using an HTPC what is your opinion of the performance


I don't use a HTPC with an onboard tuner so I can't comment on that aspect but I've used a HTPC for upscaling DVDs for years. I went to great lengths to tune my HTPC to deliver the best possible performance (ffdshow, reclock, the best vid cards, etc, etc.). My HTPC stopped being my reference DVD player when the Toshiba A1 was released. All in all, I prefer the image of a good upconverting player like the Toshiba A1 or A2 than my HTPC now. I still use the HTPC for playing other media but it's not my reference player anymore.

I just want to chime in about the XA2 and RS1. I am not sure which of these pieces to credit, but one of the biggest change compared to my 720 DLP (never tried XA2 on it), is the smoothness and lack of noise on SD DVD's. I used to see a lot of digital noise on solid blocks of color. One of the worst offenders was the Matrix - I just watched a few scenes and the improvement is dramatic. I also spent some time watching the new Eagles DVD which is pretty well done to begin with, but again the smoothness and lack of noise on the image is impressive.

Anyone else try tried the Matrix yet?

Kerry, is this with or without the 1.3 firmware update for the XA2? Just curious, since Bob Sorrel earlier reported that after the firmware update the XA2 did WORSE with SD DVD upconversion.

I just want to chime in about the XA2 and RS1. I am not sure which of these pieces to credit, but one of the biggest change compared to my 720 DLP (never tried XA2 on it), is the smoothness and lack of noise on SD DVD's. I used to see a lot of digital noise on solid blocks of color. One of the worst offenders was the Matrix - I just watched a few scenes and the improvement is dramatic. I also spent some time watching the new Eagles DVD which is pretty well done to begin with, but again the smoothness and lack of noise on the image is impressive.

Anyone else try tried the Matrix yet?

What are you outputting your SD image to the RS1. Is it 480i out of the XA2 and are you using HDMI?

Anyone else try tried the Matrix yet?

No, after seeing the HD version of the Matrix I can't watch the SD version anymore. I'm waiting for the HD-DVD version of The Matrix to come out in May :)

I am running 1.3 firmware, HDMI at 1080P. I upgraded shortly after the purchase, so I don't have much experience with earlier versions of the firmware. I would also consider myself more of an average user than Bob, so he may see problems that I don't. Also keep in mind what my previous system was - an Infocus 7200 running an old Toshiba 3109 player over component.

Mark - I can only imagine how good the HD version of the Matrix will be. King Kong is so good that I think movie producers will need to be more careful with CGI in the future. There were times when I could pretty much tell I was watching a blue screen production - the accuracy is so solid.

It sounds like a video card driver problem. What video card are you using?

Geforce 6150 (onboard) with nVidia ForceWare 100.65 drivers.

I can only imagine how good the HD version of the Matrix will be.There are some HD clips of the Matrix in the demo piece at the beginning of some HD DVDs. They look stunning. Let's hope the actual release is of the same quality.

Geforce 6150 (onboard) with nVidia ForceWare 100.65 drivers.

My nvidia 8800 GTX works well at 24, 50, 60 hz with JVC.
Problem is that I have to use WRM 9 (overlay color are totally unwatchable), but with zoomplayer I have massive tearing here.
Somebody solved this ?

Also in some DVD I see lots of chroma noise, which I try to correct using chroma denoise in FFDshow, it's normal ?

And last, if somebody use FFDshow, which settings of output do you use with JVC ?
YV2 or YUV2 or RGB32 ? Does it affect RGB colorspace bug ?

bye
Emanuele

And last, if somebody use FFDshow, which settings of output do you use with JVC ?
YV2 or YUV2 or RGB32 ? Does it affect RGB colorspace bug ?

bye
Emanuele

Pretty sure I'm YV12 . Currently I'm using a radeon 9800 pro but I will be upgrading to a 7600GS in the near future in an attempt to see if purevideo hardware scaling improves video viewing although I may stick with ffdshow in TT.

Incidentally I'm getting much better results ( less noise and aliasing) by resizing to 2048x1160 and then letting the graphics card downscale to 1920x1080. I think the subpixel downsize is working quite nicely to lose some noise and aliasing. You might have to go to x3 multiple of format size to get this to work with Nvidia hardware without green push and other problems.

Geforce 6150 (onboard) with nVidia ForceWare 100.65 drivers.

I'm using a 6600GT and 1080p works fine. You may want to post something on the HTPC forum and see if the 6150 or forceware drivers have problems at that resolution.

can i us the gray wolf 2 screen with my jvcrs1 it is 1.8 gian screen

can i us the gray wolf 2 screen with my jvcrs1 it is 1.8 gian screen

+1

can anyone answer me if this Vogel wall mount can be used for RS-1. My PJ has arrived over one week without mounting and I finally find
http://www.vogels.com/detail.asp?ISSAID=572&bLarge=true

I mounted my HD-1 with this

http://www.erard.fr/fiche_produit.php?cat1=2&cat2=3&cat3=2&cat4=1

Excuse me for my poor english

I mounted my HD-1 with this

http://www.erard.fr/fiche_produit.php?cat1=2&cat2=3&cat3=2&cat4=1

Excuse me for my poor english

Seems like perfect english to me. :)

legolas_fr
thanks
I really need a wall mount because my screen has been there, very far away from the ceiling, say some 50 inches. I need either a wall mount. After all, I also find the HD-1 does not come with keystone adjustment

Are there any large chain stores or web retailers carrying this projector or the DLA-HD1? It seems hard to locate.

Where are you located?

I visited a local store that said they had three in stock.

Don't know if you are in my area, though.

Doug

Where are you located?

I visited a local store that said they had three in stock.

Don't know if you are in my area, though.

Doug

Hi Doug, you and other local members are welcome to come and check out my RS-1.

Kthacher
I am a new recipient of the RS1 now yippee ! I never noticed any degradation on SD video up conversion to 1080i over HDMI after the 1.3 firm update. I just updated to FW 1.5 three days ago on the XA2 . Like yourself I am more of a novice user. I find the RS1 to be everything I expected and then some. I posted my initial impressions in the users thread.

I used the XA2 with a HS-10 before the RS1 upgrade and it seemed head and shoulders above the HD-A1 in up conversion. It has really paid off for me as I dropped using TT and my HTPC for DVD. Still use it for HDTV with the MyHD 120 card at 1080i and it looks stunning on the RS1 ! Johnathan

johnathan, how did you manage to get ahold of an RS1 from AVS right now?! We're supposed to be inbetween shipments--shipment 2 is long past, eagerly awaiting shipment 3...

He (johnathan) answered that question here (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=10392994&&#post10392994).

Pedro
I don't have any info on how many were held back but in the old post on shipment two Jason explained that some of the 2nd shipment people that ordered early of the 20th would be receiving them in due time.

Thanks Mike for the link.Pedro this is the 3rd week of the month so maybe there will be another batch in the pipe line soon for the rest of you. At least according to Tom Stites in another post they release them monthly. Being in the second batch has payed off with a firm ware update. So good things do come to those who wait ! Johnathan

Wow
Another thread cooled ! Four day's and counting ha ha. Cheers Johnathan

Five days and counting :)
Six days *********** :)
Nine day's **********:)
Ten day's ***********:)