According to the latest JVC press release, the U.S. MSRP is $6299.95...

Interesting, JVC and Panasonic are both subsideries of Matsushita Group...............


And I heard recently that Matsushita (renamed Panasonic, I believe) is selling their interest in JVC...

Eric

Great, glad to hear it takes 1080P/24.

"Embedded-in-conduit..."

I'm afraid it's effectively so; in a 30' run of 3" ABS with 4 right angle turns, there are HDMI and component cables, 3 pairs of 12 AWG speaker wire, and a 16 AWG trigger wire. Plus nylon clothesline as a pulling aid, but after it was in (I cemented the joints with the cables already in) it was apparent it's not going to budge.

"Embedded-in-conduit..."

I'm afraid it's effectively so; in a 30' run of 3" ABS with 4 right angle turns, there are HDMI and component cables, 3 pairs of 12 AWG speaker wire, and a 16 AWG trigger wire. Plus nylon clothesline as a pulling aid, but after it was in (I cemented the joints with the cables already in) it was apparent it's not going to budge.
Ouch. Bet you wouldn't do it that way again. ;)

Great, glad to hear it takes 1080P/24.

"Embedded-in-conduit..."

I'm afraid it's effectively so; in a 30' run of 3" ABS with 4 right angle turns, there are HDMI and component cables, 3 pairs of 12 AWG speaker wire, and a 16 AWG trigger wire. Plus nylon clothesline as a pulling aid, but after it was in (I cemented the joints with the cables already in) it was apparent it's not going to budge.
Have you tried pulling from the projector end? I have a 2 inch ABS and for some reason, the cable is almost impossible to remove from the bottom side where my rack is but not too difficult if I take a ladder and pull from the ceiling.

I posted the info below on www.avforums.com, althoug the information predominantly applies to the European region, I thought I'd better share it here as well

I have been led to believe that with regard to shipping date, the US and Europe will get mass production at around the same time. The comments with regard to warrantly only apply to Europe, I am unfortunately not in a position to comment on US situation, but hopefully Tom can comment on this in due course
********************************************************Just to give you all an update on the latest information regarding launch timing.

Preproduction units are in final stages of QC check at factory in Japan.
Mass production is ready to start production, once QC has given all clear that they are totally satisfied with the quality and level of performance of Preproduction units.

Based on todays information, the first mass production run units will be airfreighted into Europe by 26 January, directly to JVC sales companies. It seems UK and Germany will get the priority here.

This very first shipment will be fairly small quantity and expect over the course of February availability to improve.

Those on a pre-order list are likely to have the best chance to get stock early on, but will only be confirmed once actual allocation to each dealer is confirmed, so please do not PM me for individual requests/queries on this.

I am also pleased to inform the special warranty that the lamp will receive.
Whereas with most manufacturers the lamp warranty is restricted to 60-90 days or so, the JVC HD1 will come with a 1 year lamp warranty (Europe) or 1,000 hours usage (which ever comes first)

The HD1 itself comes with the usual JVC European warranty/statutory.

If I have any more updates I will let you know

Thanks for the info Bart.

Bart, can you advise what the JVC dead pixel policy is? any any other pertinent warranty facts
thanks

I was given similar information by a U.S. dealer. I was told to expect dealers to get small samples for demo purposes at the end of Jan., perhaps 1 to 3 units depending on dealer. Then full scale shipments would start. JVC needs to stock up dealers demo units first, at least that is what I was told. Then in Feb. the shipments would start full scale.

Bart, can you advise what the JVC dead pixel policy is? any any other pertinent warranty facts
thanks

Dan

I think this policy is worldwide rather than Europe. Official JVC documentation I have seen so far lists
"♦ Please be aware that, because the D-ILA device is manufactured using highly advanced technologies, 0.01% or fewer of the pixels may be non-performing (always on or off)."
http://www.jvc.co.uk/site/d-ila/

Bart,
That is great news :rolleyes: So as long as my upcoming RS1 does not exceed 621 non-performing pixels (1920x1080 x 3 panels x 0.01%), it is in spec. Awesome :rolleyes:

Bart,
That is great news. So as long as my upcoming RS1 does not exceed 621 non-performing pixels (1920x1080 x 3 panels x 0.01%), it is in spec. Awesome.

Scott

IMHO the 0.01% is just a theoretical disclaimer, as a manufacturer we have to set a cut-off point somewhere.

I would be very very surprised if such scenario would ever actually happen.
The 2 or 3 preproduction models I have seen so far had only 3-4 faulty pixels. Of course this is not a mass production but on this front, I think one can buy with confidence, also HD2K etc is not known for any major issues re faulty pixels etc

Bart,
I agree that in practice such a high number of faulty pixels would not be considered acceptable. But just putting such a statement in writing is absurb on JVC's part. The good news is that with a resolution of 1920x1080, inoperative pixels are unlikely to be distracting. For the record, I am not going to lose any sleep over this as I await delivery of my RS1.

I am being sarcastic. I will edit my post to put in the appropriate smilies.

I am being sarcastic. I will edit my post to put in the appropriate smilies.
:o

I deleted my post . .

Sorry about that. I should have put in the smilies as I can see why people would question why having only 621 inoperative pixels is a good thing.

Bart,
I agree that in practice such a high number of faulty pixels would not be considered acceptable. But just putting such a statement in writing is absurb on JVC's part. The good news is that with a resolution of 1920x1080, inoperative pixels are unlikely to be distracting. For the record, I am not going to lose any sleep over this as I await delivery of my RS1.


I dont think it is absurd to put it in writing, as said, it is purely a hypthetical issue, and that is the reason why it appears in the small print.
I do however think it is important for any manufacturer that this issue is being addressed somewhere in the product info, otherwise as an end-user you do not know where you stand.

Haven't previous "dead pixel" policies been in the "a few" range?

Bart,
That is great news :rolleyes: So as long as my upcoming RS1 does not exceed 621 non-performing pixels (1920x1080 x 3 panels x 0.01%), it is in spec. Awesome :rolleyes:

It depends on how they are distributed, too. Imagine a cluster of 621 dead pixels... not great. Unlikely, but possible?

again theoretically possible I suppose, but totally unheard off

...IF and only IF that were to happen I am sure JVC CS dept would come to an amicable solution

Perhaps we're picking at nits that do not exist and should w-a-i-t for posts from actual users.

:)

That lamp warranty is a nice bonus :)

That lamp warranty is a nice bonus :)
I agree wholeheartedly, especially with the hour qualifier!

The JVC website reports 27db noise level on the overview page and 25db on the specs page. Which is it? There is very little wrong with this projector. Fan noise might be a minor annoyance but no deal breaker.. I know I'm reporting nothing new here.

http://pro.jvc.com/prof/attributes/features.jsp?model_id=MDL101681&feature_id=01&itempath=null

The JVC website reports 27db noise level on the overview page and 25db on the specs page. Which is it? There is very little wrong with this projector. Fan noise might be a minor annoyance but no deal breaker.. I know I'm reporting nothing new here.

http://pro.jvc.com/prof/attributes/features.jsp?model_id=MDL101681&feature_id=01&itempath=null
While different specs for the same item is a bit discomforting, 1dB is equal to the sound of a newborn fieldmouse pi22ing on a wet blotter. :)

While different specs for the same item is a bit discomforting, 1dB is equal to the sound of a newborn fieldmouse pi22ing on a wet blotter. :)

Man, if I had a nickel for every time I had to shut a movie off to chase the mice out of the attic- relieving themselves on the decking and driving me crazy - I'd be a rich man. I also have to tell my guests they aren't allowed to breathe while the movie is playing as well - mouth breathers play havoc on the movie going experience! ;)

That lamp warranty is a nice bonus :)

Hi - If I read Bart's post correctly I think he was cautioning about the lamp warranty that it only applied to Europe, or something like that.

Hi - If I read Bart's post correctly I think he was cautioning about the lamp warranty that it only applied to Europe, or something like that.
Wonder why that would be . . . ?

While different specs for the same item is a bit discomforting, 1dB is equal to the sound of a newborn fieldmouse pi22ing on a wet blotter. :)

the official and final figure we are quoting for the HD1 is 25dB. that has gone into the press and all official doc/brochures

the 27dB may have been based on early information. Anyhow 25dB is confirmed for Europe/HD1 and I have no reason to believe why the US would get a 27dB version.
We know you guys like things big and bold but as far as noise as concerned, I am sure the 25dB is it.

Hi - If I read Bart's post correctly I think he was cautioning about the lamp warranty that it only applied to Europe, or something like that.

As in my position I only know for a fact the lamp warranty for Europe
- 1 year
- or 1000 hours whichever is reached first

Most competitors products only offer a 60-90 day lamp warranty.
Product warranty is basically 12 months in Europe, although some countries (Germany and some others) have a 24 months warranty

As for US warranty, I am afraid I do not know the actual/statutory position of JVC America

Chief now has all the information needed from JVC to produce their mounts for the RS1/HD1. The product number is 184. The specific model to order is dependant on the type of mount you want (i.e. RPA-184, RPM-184, SLB-184 for just the bracket if you have the universal mount already etc).

They estimate the mount will be shipping by the end of January, perhaps a bit sooner.

The best place to buy? Try AVS of course!

the official and final figure we are quoting for the HD1 is 25dB. that has gone into the press and all official doc/brochures

the 27dB may have been based on early information. Anyhow 25dB is confirmed for Europe/HD1 and I have no reason to believe why the US would get a 27dB version.
We know you guys like things big and bold but as far as noise as concerned, I am sure the 25dB is it.

Hi Bart - I recall hearing that there was a small change going into the production units to help reduce the fan noise even further. Do you happen to know if the pre-production units such as the ones being displayed at CES have this change as well. Just curious if what people report on the fan noise from the pre-production batch is the same as we should expect in the final production units.

What is the big deal about 25db. My ruby is spec'd at 22db and I think that is in low alt. mode I am running it in high alt. mode which is probally in the same range as the RS-1 and I can barely hear it and it is above my head and I have to really listen for it to hear it then, unless you guys are watching Silent movies what is all this constant talk about the almost silent fan noise of the JVC IMHO aren't we getting just a little to "Anal" around here lately, just looking for something to complain about !!

My 2 Cents,
Richard

I hate to keep asking a very much asked question, but I can't seem to find an answer in any of the threads. Has JVC confirmed that a firmware update for Vertical Stretch / Horizontal Squeeze will be made available after launch, or is this just speculation?

I hate to keep asking a very much asked question, but I can't seem to find an answer in any of the threads. Has JVC confirmed that a firmware update for Vertical Stretch / Horizontal Squeeze will be made available after launch, or is this just speculation?

I believe it's wishful thinking and is not a confirmed thing.

I hate to keep asking a very much asked question, but I can't seem to find an answer in any of the threads. Has JVC confirmed that a firmware update for Vertical Stretch / Horizontal Squeeze will be made available after launch, or is this just speculation?

Yeah, it's not even speculation. Wishful thinking only. There has been ZERO word from JVC on this. Not even a hint that it would happen.

Yeah, it's not even speculation. Wishful thinking only. There has been ZERO word from JVC on this. Not even a hint that it would happen.

I agree fully - perhaps down the road. At this point I'd implement this feature for you guys if I could. :)

Yeah, it's not even speculation. Wishful thinking only. There has been ZERO word from JVC on this. Not even a hint that it would happen.The team leader of the RS1/HD1 project (Alex Kobayshi) is flying in from Japan to be at the UK launch event on Jan 17th. I'm going to ask him about the possibility of firmware updates in general and two new features in particular:

1) 480i60 --> 1080p24/48 (for R1 DVD) and 1080i60 --> 1080p24/48 (for HD discs) ITC processing.

2) Anamorphic stretch for constant height solutions.

The team leader of the RS1/HD1 project (Alex Kobayshi) is flying in from Japan to be at the UK launch event on Jan 17th. I'm going to ask him about the possibility of firmware updates in general and two new features in particular:

1) 480i60 --> 1080p24/48 (for R1 DVD) and 1080i60 --> 1080p24/48 (for HD discs) ITC processing.

2) Anamorphic stretch for constant height solutions.

I'm sure I"m not the only one who would really appreciate this.

Thanks

Hi Bart - I recall hearing that there was a small change going into the production units to help reduce the fan noise even further. Do you happen to know if the pre-production units such as the ones being displayed at CES have this change as well. Just curious if what people report on the fan noise from the pre-production batch is the same as we should expect in the final production units.

Ric, I am not sure about what sample has gone to the US/CES I am afraid.
Just thinking pragmatically, I could assume that the CES sample is a unit that was already in the US pre X-mas break, hence is unlikely to have had any latest upgrades/improvements that are being made since the start of 2007; also bearing in mind that Japanese companies only started on Monday again since their New Year break. Anyhow that is just me thinking out loud.

Mr Kobayashi did mention indeed that the "timbre" of the fan noise may be altered slightly to make it even more acceptable for the mass production units, compared to the one used at the mid Dec demos in Europe. Anyhow the official fan noise is quoted as 25dB as posted previously.

Here is my question: I'm having a hushbox built by whisper right now for my HX2U, and I have an RS1 on order -- I'd love to be able to know if the hushbox is going to work for the RS1. I know I am going to have to get a new front plate for it, but to do so, I need to know what the measurements are going to be from the ceiling with a mount. :(

Does anyone know this? If not, I will have to wing it.

Rick,
The RS1 has quite a bit larger footprint so the question is how large is the hushbox ? I've a feeling it isn't going to be big/wide enough but I'd gladly be wrong for your sake.

Specs:

HX2U...Dimensions (WHD) 11.7" x 5.6" x 14.1" (298 x 134 x 360mm)
RS1.....Dimensions (WHD) 18" x 7-1/4" x 17-9/16" (455 x 172.5 x 418.5 mm)

Here is my question: I'm having a hushbox built by whisper right now for my HX2U, and I have an RS1 on order -- I'd love to be able to know if the hushbox is going to work for the RS1. I know I am going to have to get a new front plate for it, but to do so, I need to know what the measurements are going to be from the ceiling with a mount. :(
What is the noise spec on your HX2U? Depending on the location of your projector vis-a-vis the audience('s heads) and their sensitivity to background noise, you may find that no hushbox is needed.

Can a PC or Xbox360 be connected to it using VGA 1080p 60hz, it seems the component input may allow RGB but not sure? seems to lack sync inputs?

Following some confusion re HD1 v RS1 discussion on the European board (www.avforums.com) I posted the following info there, that I thought I should share with our US friends as well...
************************************************

to the best of my knowledge the RS1 and HD1 are identical product when I checked with my colleagues (i.e. difference only cosmetic)

In US, JVC wanted 2 different models one for JVC Consumer Company and 1 for JVC PRO company as they cover different distribution channels.

Hence the colour change was introduced. I am fairly reliably informed that HD1 and RS1 are identical when they leave the factory. Now it maybe that RS1 is tweaked in port of entry in US. But can only speculate on this. My knowledge reaches only to HD1 /Europe I am afraid.

FYI, IN Europe both JVC Consumer and JVC PRO will carry HD1 only.

TRUST me the HD1 will deliver the same excellent performance as the RS1

...I think that this is a typical matter of our over excited US forum colleagues almost over analysing such new product.... I can't blame them of course, but I think that is all there is too it in the discussion between RS1 and HD1

...I think that this is a typical matter of our over excited US forum colleagues almost over analysing such new product.... I can't blame them of course, but I think that is all there is too it in the discussion between RS1 and HD1
"Almost?" ;)

I wish we could nail this down. I sense that based on no responses to several requests by a couple of folks...I am fearing the worst...but HDMI 1.3 at this point (winter 2007, and new products w/) would be sweeeeet. It is enough to make me wait 'til say...summer + for the HDMI 1.3 (I know, I know...suppose to not be a big deal).

Responses? :eek:

How do you expect us to "definitively" answer something which must be based on pure speculation.
No products have yet been anounced which make any use at all of the deep colour support in HDMI 1.3 - that's the only definitive statement we can make.

Wolvernole,

The projector does not support any of the extended bit depth features defined in HDMI 1.3...consider it nailed down.

Wolvernole,

The projector does not support any of the extended bit depth features defined in HDMI 1.3...consider it nailed down.
Is that a matter of processing, or are there only so many gradations of color available from the engine and they can't be sliced any finer?

Tom,

What is the minimum clearance required in front of the RS1 for adequate ventilation?

I have my pj firing through a porthole in the back wall.

Noah,

I haven't seen an owner's manual for the projector yet, so I can't definitively answer your question. Previous models have been specified at 500mm minimum clearance at the hot air exhaust area and the RS1 will likely be the same.

Pepar,

I think the issue was more a matter of hardware and final specifications being available at the time when the projector circuitry had to be cast in stone. Add to that the fact that there are no sources available that make use of the higher bit depth.

I'm sure HDMI 1.3 will be supported on future models, when and if it becomes relevant on a large scale.

And before anyone asks, the answer is NO! :-)

And before anyone asks, the answer is NO! :-)

Tom - That's great news!!! I really thought I would have to wait on a different model or firmware update for vertical stretch, but you've said NO to the waiting! ;)

In all seriousness, sounds like you've got quite a winner in this PJ. I've got one on order and the only thing left to debate is my screen. Congrats to JVC!

Hi Tom. Thanks again for coming on here and answering questions for all of us ;)

I was hoping you could give me your opinion on a question I have.

I am looking at getting a Carada 1.4 gain white screen at 96" diag for a fully light controlled room with the RS1, and with the RS1 on low bulb mode. In your opinion will this be too bright, just right, not bright enough? I was thinking it may be a bit bright at the beginning (about 23ftL if my math is right) but when the bulb ages a bit, will be pretty perfect I would think. I would love to hear your opinion on this if you dont mind :o

" Previous models have been specified at 500mm minimum clearance at the hot air exhaust area and the RS1 will likely be the same."

Yikes! That would have it's back end poking through the back wall of the closet it's in.

Guess I'll have to provide an external fan and partitions to guide the airflow.

Tom,

You mentioned that you haven't seen the manual yet... a request when you do.

If we can't get the whole manual online, please see if you can get a picture of the bottom of the projector with mounting hole specifications and details of any clearance issues. Those of us that fabricate our own mounts will be very grateful. I would like to have the mount ready when the RS-1 arrives!

Wolvernole,

The projector does not support any of the extended bit depth features defined in HDMI 1.3...consider it nailed down.

Thanks for the response. I believe that I will wait until...about September then.
You know, the HDMI 1.3 will be relevant in about a year, I predict, re. color. Meanwhile, in terms of sound, the 1.3 should address lip sync issues. It is not just about color.
I am still very excited about this JVC . For my application, I will not be ready for a FP until September, and it is great to know that we have a technology that should kick some butt right now, and perhaps even more promising in early fall 2007. :cool:

Noah,

Yeah, 20" is a lot of clearance and I think you'll be fine just as long as you make sure that there is no recirculation path for the hot exhaust...both exhaust and some of the inlet air are at the front.

The exhaust air is low velocity so I would think that coming up with some sort of effective baffling should allow you to make do with much reduced clearance. Obviously I can't make an official recommendation beyond what the manual states.

I'll post a link to a manual just as soon as I have access to one...also will see if I can come up with mounting hole locations in the next couple weeks.

Cheers,

Tom,

There is a lot of speculation about a future firmware upgrade that would allow the VP on the PJ to do a vertical stretch to facilitate a 2.35 CH setup. Is this something that is in the works for the RS1 or should we not count on that happening as we try to figure out our new setups for it?

Mike

Mike,

The ability to do vertical stretch was requested directly to factory personnel at CEDIA in September. They said they would investigate providing that feature. To this date, we have had no further comment from the factory.

No assumptions should be made regarding either inclusion of this feature in the product when it ships shortly or the ability to implement it via firmware upgrade at some later date.

I realize many of you are sitting on "go" waiting for an answer, but thats all I can say.

Cheers,

Tom,

Thanks for the answer. 8)

Heres to hoping, and there apparently still is hope, that it is a feature that will be included when it ships. 8) Looks like you guys didnt miss much else, otherwise, except for maybe a VGA input for my 360. 8)

Cant wait to get my hands on it .. though id gladly wait a few days more for the vertical stretch feature.

Mike

PS Please make sure that Jason and Alan get all of their pre-orders filled with your initial shipment of RS1s to them. 8)

Cat - there are strong signs that the X360 will be re-released with a HDMI port so I don't think the lack of a VGA will be an issue.

I was reading about that "Zephyr". I guess I could always just move the old 360 to my old 30 inch tube widescreen in my bedroom. 8)

That should make my wife even happier with my hobby.

Cat - there are strong signs that the X360 will be re-released with a HDMI port so I don't think the lack of a VGA will be an issue.


Do US versions of the X360 not come with Component output
During the UK demo in mid Dec we hooked up the X360 to the HD1 via component and Gears of War was absolutely awesome, there was detail that I had never seen until then.

I must admit - I found it a little odd that there was only a combined sync and not separate H+V.

I was reading about that "Zephyr". I guess I could always just move the old 360 to my old 30 inch tube widescreen in my bedroom. 8)

That should make my wife even happier with my hobby.


Ummm.... people that dont send pj mounts dont get to purchase an RS1 so I guess you will be buying another Ruby then :D , Mike I couldnt resist.....

Tom,

You mentioned that you haven't seen the manual yet... a request when you do.

If we can't get the whole manual online, please see if you can get a picture of the bottom of the projector with mounting hole specifications and details of any clearance issues. Those of us that fabricate our own mounts will be very grateful. I would like to have the mount ready when the RS-1 arrives!

I measured the location of the 'feet' on the RS1 yesterday: it is 9" between the front pair and back pair, and 12" between the left and right pair.

Following some confusion re HD1 v RS1 discussion on the European board (www.avforums.com) I posted the following info there, that I thought I should share with our US friends as well...
************************************************

to the best of my knowledge the RS1 and HD1 are identical product when I checked with my colleagues (i.e. difference only cosmetic)

In US, JVC wanted 2 different models one for JVC Consumer Company and 1 for JVC PRO company as they cover different distribution channels.

Hence the colour change was introduced. I am fairly reliably informed that HD1 and RS1 are identical when they leave the factory. Now it maybe that RS1 is tweaked in port of entry in US. But can only speculate on this. My knowledge reaches only to HD1 /Europe I am afraid.

FYI, IN Europe both JVC Consumer and JVC PRO will carry HD1 only.

TRUST me the HD1 will deliver the same excellent performance as the RS1

...I think that this is a typical matter of our over excited US forum colleagues almost over analysing such new product.... I can't blame them of course, but I think that is all there is too it in the discussion between RS1 and HD1

I saw the RS1 and the HD1 at the CES, and asked both sets of folks if there was ANY diff in the two except for cosmetics; and they both said 'no'.

Once again I am throwing out a line to the list looking for someone on the pre-buy list that is giving up their place to buy something else. I missed the pre-buy and need the kindness of a stranger to get me aboard now.

e-mail to rrubman@alloysinternational.com or PM me.

Thanks,
Russ

The JVC website reports 27db noise level on the overview page and 25db on the specs page. Which is it? There is very little wrong with this projector. Fan noise might be a minor annoyance but no deal breaker.. I know I'm reporting nothing new here.

http://pro.jvc.com/prof/attributes/features.jsp?model_id=MDL101681&feature_id=01&itempath=null

At the CES I put my ear down to within a few inches of the exhaust outlet of the RS1 and could barely detect the noise (maybe my 65 yr old ears!). So I'm sure that it would be effectively inaudible (to me) at a few feet away.

Thanks Millerwill. I've gone to great lengths building hushboxes for previous projectors over the years. The Ruby is the first pj I've had without a hushbox and now there is no going back. I've got lousy ears for the high frequencies (loud music and shotguns) but the sound of a fan during a quiet movie annoys the hell out of me. Sounds like the RS1 won't be a bother..

I measured the location of the 'feet' on the RS1 yesterday: it is 9" between the front pair and back pair, and 12" between the left and right pair.
Millerwill,

Thanks for the info! Do I understand you correctly? There is 9" between the left and right and 12" front to rear, four holes in a rectangular pattern centered under the projector?

Now all I need is the screw size and depth along with any obstruction/ clearance issues with a mounting plate.

Millerwill,

Thanks for the info! Do I understand you correctly? There is 8" between the left and right and 12" front to rear, four holes in a rectangular pattern centered under the projector?

Now all I need is the screw size and depth along with any obstruction/ clearance issues with a mounting plate.

No, it is 9" between the front and back feet, and 12" between the left and right. And yes, in a rectangle. (Sorry to be confusing in the first post!)

Mike,

The ability to do vertical stretch was requested directly to factory personnel at CEDIA in September. They said they would investigate providing that feature. To this date, we have had no further comment from the factory.

No assumptions should be made regarding either inclusion of this feature in the product when it ships shortly or the ability to implement it via firmware upgrade at some later date.

I realize many of you are sitting on "go" waiting for an answer, but thats all I can say.

Cheers,

Is it not possible to call the factory and confirm one way or the other. Certainly the Gennum 9351 should not be limited in being able to perform vertical stretch. I am on the AVS pre order and I would appreciate an answer before Jason calls to tell me the projector is ready to ship out.

Thanks

John

Do US versions of the X360 not come with Component output
During the UK demo in mid Dec we hooked up the X360 to the HD1 via component and Gears of War was absolutely awesome, there was detail that I had never seen until then.

Yes they do have component output. However HDMI of course is preferred - one less input to calibrate and run a line to the pj for.

While we're on the subject Bart, do you know (or can you find out if not) whether the RS1/HD1 will accept 1080P over component? Most will accept 1080i over component but not 1080P. The X360 now has support for 1080P over component (which is just scaled anyway) so I am curious. Thanks.

I measured the location of the 'feet' on the RS1 yesterday: it is 9" between the front pair and back pair, and 12" between the left and right pair.

Hi Millerwill,

Did you happen too notice if the RS1 has adjustable feet? Oh ya, what did you think of the RS1's image?

No, it is 9" between the front and back feet, and 12" between the left and right. And yes, in a rectangle. (Sorry to be confusing in the first post!)
You are fast!

I caught my typo as soon as I posted it and edited it but you were faster than I could correct it! Thanks again for the info!

Yes they do have component output. However HDMI of course is preferred - one less input to calibrate and run a line to the pj for.

While we're on the subject Bart, do you know (or can you find out if not) whether the RS1/HD1 will accept 1080P over component? Most will accept 1080i over component but not 1080P. The X360 now has support for 1080P over component (which is just scaled anyway) so I am curious. Thanks.

I think it does, but not 100% sure

Hi Millerwill,

Did you happen too notice if the RS1 has adjustable feet? Oh ya, what did you think of the RS1's image?

Yes it has

Hi Millerwill,

Did you happen too notice if the RS1 has adjustable feet? Oh ya, what did you think of the RS1's image?

Alex, Check my post in the 'RS1 CES' thread;' it summarizes my CES impressions. But yes, I thought the RS1/HD1 was fabulous--I'm DEFINITELY staying on the prebuy.

Might be too soon to ask since we don't have the manual for this pj yet...but i'll ask anyway :) .

I'm also on the prebuy for the RS-1 and I'm going to pair it with my 133" 16x9 hp screen. I'm thinking for max gain I'm going to need to mount the pj much lower than my currently ceiling mounted pj. I'll need to mount the RS-1 on the back wall which is about 23' from the screen. Now in order to get the pj down low enough I'm also thinking it would be better to mount it behind that wall so no one will bump etc. So all things considered in relation to heat/airflow etc...is there any way to figure the minimum size of the hole I'll need to cut into the wall?

-Ken

edit:
Just to clarify...the entire pj will be mounted behind the wall in an equipment closet. Basically I'm just wondering how big the "window" needs to be for just the image to pass thru.

Thanks,
Ken

What is the RS1 throw range and ceiling mount spec (inches above the screen)? I am on Jason's pre-order list and am replacing a TV3, which has been a terrific projector. I did several searches but couldn't find the info.

what kind of DVD player to use with the HD-1 ? , does the HD-1 benefit from a upscaling dvd-player ( like the oppo 981 or denon 1930 )?
And which output resolution to use from the dvd-player if connected to the HD-1 ( 480i,576p,720p or 1080 ) i hope to get the HD-1 within 2 weeks ( here in Holland )

greets from Holland

Pat

""Ummm.... people that dont send pj mounts dont get to purchase an RS1 so I guess you will be buying another Ruby then , Mike I couldnt resist..... ""

Man, thats a low blow. I freakin overnighted that mount toi you at my expense when you were crying about not being able ot mount the Ruby! 8)

Now, the Pole....

According to the info I've got here, the RS1/HD1 do not accept 1080p via Component Analog, that input max's out at 1080i50/60. Only the HDMI inputs accept 1080p sources. I will double check this to be sure, but I believe it will turn out to be the case.

Cheers,

According to the info I've got here, the RS1/HD1 do not accept 1080p via Component Analog, that input max's out at 1080i50/60. Only the HDMI inputs accept 1080p sources. I will double check this to be sure, but I believe it will turn out to be the case.

Cheers,
Is there any source that outputs 1080p over component?

The xbox 360 will output 1080p over component.

The xbox 360 will output 1080p over component.

It is looking very promising however that the X360 will be re-released later this year with a HDMI output (and likely a built-in HD DVD player). Therefore I am not concerned about 1080p over component. Thanks for the info on this Tom.

If you don't already own a 360, it's easy to not care, but if someone already has an xbox 360 and the hd-dvd addon they might not be quite so happy that they should just buy a new 360.
The 360 also outputs 1080p over RGB, but the RS1 doesn't seem to support that either.

Not a deal breaker, but it would be nice.

Can point me to a 1080p source - either an XBOX360 game or an HD-DVD?
I haven't seen any mention of one - in which case surely it's moot.

Holland,

Use an HD-DVD player with the HD1. Thats how you will get the most benefit.

According to the info I've got here, the RS1/HD1 do not accept 1080p via Component Analog, that input max's out at 1080i50/60. Only the HDMI inputs accept 1080p sources. I will double check this to be sure, but I believe it will turn out to be the case.

Cheers,

That's disappointing to hear. I was looking forward to using my Xbox 360's 1080p mode after getting the JVC. Not a deal breaker for me, but disappointing none the less.

That's disappointing to hear. I was looking forward to using my Xbox 360's 1080p mode after getting the JVC. Not a deal breaker for me, but disappointing none the less.

The Gennum processor in the RS1 should produce a better progressive image compared to the Xbox so feeding 1080i from the XBox should really not matter as far as the end result is concerned.

The Gennum processor in the RS1 should produce a better progressive image compared to the Xbox so feeding 1080i from the XBox should really not matter as far as the end result is concerned.

Agreed. The 360 is simply upscaling to 1080p, which is what the RS1 will do if you feed it 1080i. The Gennum should do a better job of this than the 360 so even if you could feed the RS1 with a 1080p signal from the 360, you probably would not since the Gennum will most likely do a better job.

Can Tom and/or Bart perhaps tell if we will get access to the LUT controls to calibrate the greyscale even better.
I read mixed storys on this, as in "Meridian is not going to use this projector for next generation PJ because they cannot get access to the LUT's"

Will we just have to do with the factory calibration ?

...s in "Meridian is not going to use this projector for next generation PJ because they cannot get access to the LUT's"...


Where did you come across that?

That's disappointing to hear. I was looking forward to using my Xbox 360's 1080p mode after getting the JVC. Not a deal breaker for me, but disappointing none the less.

A standard dual use component / VGA input would have been so much better. The 360 outputs full 1080p over VGA with 1080p source video, its not upscaling.
I don't think it will be long until some decent stand alone HD-DVD units arrive, but with the JVC it does not take much to run out of inputs...

"It is looking very promising however that the X360 will be re-released later this year with a HDMI output (and likely a built-in HD DVD player). "

Off topic, but no, there is no plan for a built-in HD-DVD player in Xbox 360.

"The Gennum processor in the RS1 should produce a better progressive image compared to the Xbox so feeding 1080i from the XBox should really not matter as far as the end result is concerned. "

Not only that, but I recently learned that an HDMI cable that works fine with 1080i may not with 1080p.

"Not only that, but I recently learned that an HDMI cable that works fine with 1080i may not with 1080p.

From whom or where did you learn that from? I'm curious. Somehow I just don't buy it. I been know to be wrong from time to time though. :D

Tom, 1080i is less information than 1080p. Sooooo, some cables that can handle the lower data rate can not handle the highest 1080p signals. I do not even know that much about HDMI but I know that.

Yup, 1080p60 = 2 * 1080i60 What works for one doesn't necessarily mean that it will work for the other. 1080p24 on the otherhand is less than 1080i60 so it depends on the flavor/framerate of the 1080p signal.

From whom or where did you learn that from? I'm curious. Somehow I just don't buy it. I been know to be wrong from time to time though. :DThe data rate for 1080p60 is 2x the data rate for 1080i. Therefore for the same cable construction the maximum cable length for 1080p60 will be shorter than for 1080i.

Edit: Whoops, Mark already said this while I was typing.

Thanks guys. *gulp* So, my 20ft hdmi cable from Blue Jeans Cable for 1080p should be ok I hope?

Thanks guys. *gulp* So, my 20ft hdmi cable from Blue Jeans Cable for 1080p should be ok I hope?

I am using the same cable, so I share that hope! :eek:

Monoprice lists 1080p in the specs for its HDMI cables, even the 25 ft 28 gauge one. Can one relie on thie?

Tom, you said:

[Noah,

Yeah, 20" is a lot of clearance and I think you'll be fine just as long as you make sure that there is no recirculation path for the hot exhaust...both exhaust and some of the inlet air are at the front.

The exhaust air is low velocity so I would think that coming up with some sort of effective baffling should allow you to make do with much reduced clearance. Obviously I can't make an official recommendation beyond what the manual states.

I'll post a link to a manual just as soon as I have access to one...also will see if I can come up with mounting hole locations in the next couple weeks.

Cheers,

__________________
Tom Stites
"Speaking only for myself...." ]

Do you any info on the CFM rating of the exhaust fan on the RS1 ? That is the figure we'll need to plan for when placing the RS1 in a more confined space than the 'open-air' mounting JVC seems to expect.

The data rate for 1080p60 is 2x the data rate for 1080i. Therefore for the same cable construction the maximum cable length for 1080p60 will be shorter than for 1080i.

Edit: Whoops, Mark already said this while I was typing.

How could it be double ? HDMI carries audio as well as video, right ? Som whatever data bandwidth is used for the audio portion is not going to double between 1080i and 1080p, just the video portion of the bandwidth will double.

How could it be double ? HDMI carries audio as well as video, right ? Som whatever data bandwidth is used for the audio portion is not going to double between 1080i and 1080p, just the video portion of the bandwidth will double.
Audio has such a low bit rate compared to video that it is just transmitted during the video blanking periods. i.e. it has no effect on the HDMI bit rates.

So it may not be double, but it's enough that you'll need a cable with a large enough diameter to handle the increased bandwidth. How much girth is necessary for a given distance is up in the air. If you already have a cable, try it and see if it works. If not, get one that is garaunteed. If it doesn't carry the signal well enough, send it back and get another.

Edit: Whoops, Mark already said this while I was typing.

Ha! Beat ya to it :)

Not only that, if I understood correctly from Bob Parriseau's posts in the Amp/receiver forum, HDMI 1.3 might add empty extra bits for Deep Color, raising BW requirements even higher, or some other way.

I asked for clarification a couple of times, but never got an answer I could fully grasp.

Not only that, if I understood correctly from Bob Parriseau's posts in the Amp/receiver forum, HDMI 1.3 might add empty extra bits for Deep Color, raising BW requirements even higher, or some other way.

I asked for clarification a couple of times, but never got an answer I could fully grasp.If optional Deep Color is used (don't hold your breath) it will increase the bit rate up to 2x for any given video format, depending on the bit depth of the Deep Color mode.

So it may not be double, but it's enough that you'll need a cable with a large enough diameter to handle the increased bandwidth.

Not sure if that was a joke or not? :)
Bandwidth has nothing to do with cable diameter.

Ok Guys,

Some breaking news. We finally got our test-sample (One day too late cause of lame postal service) and started doing measurements and tests.

First of all, the secret of different numbers regarding contrast and Lumens here on AVS is solved. Actually, the deviation between Min Zoom an Max Zoom is quite high, as some here expected.

So with Max Zoom you can get up to 720 Lumen @ D65. Therefore, we can confirm our measuremenst from the preview. However, the less Zoom you use, the more brightness you lose. It seems right now up to 27% loss.

Also affected is contrast: The more Zoom, the less contrast.


But I will do more precise measurements regarding this these days.

:D

Regards,
Ekkehart, Cine4Home

Based on these concerns, does anyone have recommendations (experience) as to what HDMI cable performs best at 1080P and longer runs in the 30 to 35 ft range. I will be using an RS1 with a soon to be decide 1080P source going through an undecided HDMI switch (4 inputs - 2 outputs needed). This will mean another 3ft or so HDMI cable between the switch and Source.

Ekkehart,
Is this a production sample?

Ok Guys,

Some breaking news. We finally got our test-sample (One day too late cause of lame postal service) and started doing measurements and tests.

First of all, the secret of different numbers regarding contrast and Lumens here on AVS is solved. Actually, the deviation between Min Zoom an Max Zoom is quite high, as some here expected.

So with Max Zoom you can get up to 720 Lumen @ D65. Therefore, we can confirm our measuremenst from the preview. However, the less Zoom you use, the more brightness you lose. It seems right now up to 27% loss.

Also affected is contrast: The more Zoom, the less contrast.


But I will do more precise measurements regarding this these days.

:D

Regards,
Ekkehart, Cine4Home

Ekkehart - thank you, thank you, thank you!! Finally, some definitive answers with regards to lumens. I have some follow up questions please:

1) Regarding the quoted 720 lumen vs 525 lumens (min throw vs. max throw, 525 calculated as 27% of 720) - am I correct to assume this was in HIGH lamp mode?

2) Please let us know how much brighter the image is in HIGH lamp mode vs. normal lamp mode. He heard about 30% brighter in high lamp mode earlier - how does this match up with what you are seeing?

3) What specifically is the color temperature and dE of that unit at 100 IRE?

4) As we talked about earlier in the forums, please let us know just how flat the grayscale is (dE 0-3, 0-5, worse?) with the factory settings. And most importantly, are the controls sufficient to improve this or does it look like indeed LUT access will be needed for this?

5) What is the on/off contrast measured a min throw and max throw?

6) Lastly, can you please tell us lumens, on/off CR, and contrast right at MID throw (2.1x screen width)? Then we will have reference points for those at min, mid, and max throw, and those in between can figure where they'll be from there.

Thanks!

Based on these concerns, does anyone have recommendations (experience) as to what HDMI cable performs best at 1080P and longer runs in the 30 to 35 ft range. I will be using an RS1 with a soon to be decide 1080P source going through an undecided HDMI switch (4 inputs - 2 outputs needed). This will mean another 3ft or so HDMI cable between the switch and Source.

I am using a 35ft monoprice HDMI cable at 1080p, but with some minor troubles (which I cannot yet be sure are due to the cable). To be specific, I have no problems with picture quality, but I do have to "select" HDMI on my pj several times before the HDCP handshake succeeds. Unfortunately, I changed the connection at the same time I changed the cable ... it now goes through my Pioneer VSX-84TXSi instead of straight from player to pj as it used to. The old cable was the *25* ft monoprice, with which I had no troubles of any kind.

When I get a spare minute, I'll try cabling the pj directly to the player with the new cable to see which change is the source of my HDCP handshake troubles.

paul

For anyone else who will be locating the RS1 behind the back wall and close to it, attached is a sketch of how I intend to augment ventilation; you might need to expand the image window to get it to be clear.

The air guide will have one side plus top and bottom.

I'll compare the case temp with plenty of room around the unit to what it is in situ and up fan capacity until I'm reasonably close to the same temp, or hopefully even cooler.

1) Regarding the quoted 720 lumen vs 525 lumens (min throw vs. max throw, 525 calculated as 27% of 720) - am I correct to assume this was in HIGH lamp mode?


just to be pedantic, you mean "calculated as 73% of 720" or "calculated as 720 reduced by 27%" :p

paul

So... what we were lead to be true is in fact not true. Zoom has a marked impact on lumen output and on/off contrast.

For anyone else who will be locating the RS1 behind the back wall and close to it, attached is a sketch of how I intend to augment ventilation; you might need to expand the image window to get it to be clear.

The air guide will have one side plus top and bottom.

I'll compare the case temp with plenty of room around the unit to what it is in situ and up fan capacity until I'm reasonably close to the same temp, or hopefully, even cooler.

instead of building just one of these, you should build 10 and sell 9 of them to the others here with the same needs ... at a suitable markup, of course! :cool:

paul

Ok Guys,

Some breaking news. We finally got our test-sample (One day too late cause of lame postal service) and started doing measurements and tests.

First of all, the secret of different numbers regarding contrast and Lumens here on AVS is solved. Actually, the deviation between Min Zoom an Max Zoom is quite high, as some here expected.

So with Max Zoom you can get up to 720 Lumen @ D65. Therefore, we can confirm our measuremenst from the preview. However, the less Zoom you use, the more brightness you lose. It seems right now up to 27% loss.

Also affected is contrast: The more Zoom, the less contrast.


But I will do more precise measurements regarding this these days.

:D

Regards,
Ekkehart, Cine4Home


Damn, that sure is a long way from "minimal light fall off" at longer throws that we were told about! :eek:

Ekkehart - thank you, thank you, thank you!! Finally, some definitive answers with regards to lumens. I have some follow up questions please:

1) Regarding the quoted 720 lumen vs 525 lumens (min throw vs. max throw, 525 calculated as 27% of 720) - am I correct to assume this was in HIGH lamp mode?

2) Please let us know how much brighter the image is in HIGH lamp mode vs. normal lamp mode. He heard about 30% brighter in high lamp mode earlier - how does this match up with what you are seeing?

3) What specifically is the color temperature and dE of that unit at 100 IRE?

4) As we talked about earlier in the forums, please let us know just how flat the grayscale is (dE 0-3, 0-5, worse?) with the factory settings. And most importantly, are the controls sufficient to improve this or does it look like indeed LUT access will be needed for this?

5) What is the on/off contrast measured a min throw and max throw?

6) Lastly, can you please tell us lumens, on/off CR, and contrast right at MID throw (2.1x screen width)? Then we will have reference points for those at min, mid, and max throw, and those in between can figure where they'll be from there.

Thanks!


1) Yes

2) About 20%

3/4) Color Temperature is really close to D65, we will provide charts. It is also very flat, so the RGB options are sufficient.

5) 11500:1 up to 15000:1 @ D65 (preliminary measurements)

6) We will have to measure that these days.


Regards,
Ekkehart, Cine4Home

Can someone PM the pre-buy price. I want to see how it stacks against my local dealer.

Thanks

Well, I for one am happy to hear Cine4Home's report since I will be mounting the pj very near the minimum throw distance**. "It's an ill wind ... !" Wow, 720 lumens, 6500K, on high lamp, and 80% of that, 576 lumens, on low lamp. Super.

**Just last night ordered the Mission Bookshelf from LL Bean, 46" high, on which the RS1 will sit right behind our recliners. Should be ideal for the 126" HP.

cine4home -

That would explain the variences but doesnt explain how you got 695 lumens and 15k contrast from preview =(

seems like the contrast should have been closer to 11k?

Damn, that sure is a long way from "minimal light fall off" at longer throws that we were told about! :eek:

Well looking at it from the brightside (pun intended) it actually exceeds the 700 lumen spec at max zoom. I'm curious to see where the contrast falls at longest throw since I'm more than willing to trade some lumens for contrast.

yeah but i was hoping to be able to hit closer to the rumored 17k marks not having to give up the lumens to hit the 15k mark. =(

Sorry guys, cant answer all your questions by now. We just need more time with that machine.

Just wait for our complete and indepth review coming next week. Hopefully most of your questions will be answered by then ;-)

FYI: I watched some movie scenes last night at max Zoom and the machine was very bright on a 2,8m wide screen (low lamp). At the same time, image depth was really phenomenal, even in difficult scenes like in "From Hell". It definately beat my VW50. Dont worry too much about numbers ;-)


Regards,
Ekkehart, Cine4Home

Thanks cine4home for the update. I'm very happy about your findings as I may not need an ND filter now given my relatively long throw and using the lower lamp mode. I also love the fact that the relatively longer throw will also boost contrast up close to its maximum.

I wish JVC gave us an manual iris to close down even further. That combined with vertical stretch capability would make it the perfect projector for my HT.

"instead of building just one of these, you should build 10 and sell 9 of them to the others here with the same needs... at a suitable markup, of course! "

Given my craftsmanship, it wouldn't be worth your money or my time.

But I'll be happy to share the final dimensions and which fan works.

Well looking at it from the brightside (pun intended) it actually exceeds the 700 lumen spec at max zoom. I'm curious to see where the contrast falls at longest throw since I'm more than willing to trade some lumens for contrast.

I didn't realize the spec called for 700 lumens "at max zoom"?

With my size screen at 1.3 gain, I will need to mount the JVC close to it's shortest throw, which would actually put it slightly in front of the first row of viewers if I want to get max lumens. Bummer.

[QUOTE=Thunder]Thanks cine4home for the update. I'm very happy about your findings as I may not need an ND filter now given my relatively long throw and using the lower lamp mode. I also love the fact that the relatively longer throw will also boost contrast up close to its maximum.QUOTE]

This works for me too. I'll give up lumens for increased contrast as well. :)
Projector will be placed well behind the second row at a 22' throw.

So minimum throw maximum lumens less contrast.

Maximum throw less lumens more contrast.

are the above correct?

So minimum throw maximum lumens less contrast.

Maximum throw less lumens more contrast.

are the above correct?

Yes.

These are the tradeoffs that I originally didn't think we would have to make with the RS1, but it appears that will not be the case.

3/4) Color Temperature is really close to D65, we will provide charts. It is also very flat, so the RGB options are sufficient.


Are you able to get good measurements below 30 IRE? My main concern is how flat it would remain in the 5-25 IRE range since typically things begin to fall apart in the dark ranges.


5) 11500:1 up to 15000:1 @ D65 (preliminary measurements)


Wow. That's a wider range than I would have thought.


6) We will have to measure that these days.


*IF* you have the time I think it would be great to plot the lumens and on/off measurements (separate charts) throughout the throw range (say every foot). This was done early on by some forum members (Tryg and GregR IIRC) early on with the Ruby and was very helpful. However that can be time consuming so measures at min, mid and max would be a great fallback.

Thanks again, and in the meantime we'd love to hear more impressions on the material you are watching as you play with your new toy! :)
Regards,
Ekkehart, Cine4Home[/QUOTE]

Ekkehart - Forgot to ask - but very important to go with the lumens numbers you quoted so far - how many hours were on the lamp when these measurements were taken? Thanks!

Well looking at it from the brightside (pun intended) it actually exceeds the 700 lumen spec at max zoom. I'm curious to see where the contrast falls at longest throw since I'm more than willing to trade some lumens for contrast.

In his post above he said the contrast preliminarily ranged from 11500:1 up to 15000:1 @ D65. I take it the 15,000:1 would be at max throw. So there you go - hello!! :D

Ekkehart, thank you so much for posting all this excellent info!

I for one am VERY HAPPY with this report. I was trying to figure out how to cut lumens because I am getting a relatively small screen for a cave of a room. Tonight I figured out a way to put the RS1 near max throw to cut out some lumens, and apparently I am getting the added benefit of more CR :)

The only thing that would screw up my plan is if for some reason the remote sensor was NOT on the front plate of the projector since the front will be flush with my back wall (I am going to put the projector in a closet that is located behind the back wall of the theater) and the rest of the projector will be out of view when in the theater. I am sure it is in front though, it would be crazy if it was not.

Can someone PM the pre-buy price. I want to see how it stacks against my local dealer.

Thanks

The prebuy is over so that wouldn't be a fair comparison since it is not available at that price. Contact Jason at AVS - I don't know what the price they are selling it at now is, but I am sure they are very competitive.

Ekkehart, thank you so much for posting all this excellent info!

I for one am VERY HAPPY with this report. I was trying to figure out how to cut lumens because I am getting a relatively small screen for a cave of a room. Tonight I figured out a way to put the RS1 near max throw to cut out some lumens, and apparently I am getting the added benefit of more CR :)

The only thing that would screw up my plan is if for some reason the remote sensor was NOT on the front plate of the projector since the front will be flush with my back wall (I am going to put the projector in a closet that is located behind the back wall of the theater) and the rest of the projector will be out of view when in the theater. I am sure it is in front though, it would be crazy if it was not.

You raise an interesting question about the sensor placement that I don't think has been asked yet - and here I thought we left no stone unturned! :)

I would be surprised if there was no sensor on the front. Afterall with the pj designed to vent out the front I think its made to mount pretty close to a back wall. If anything I'd be worried that there was no sensor on the back, for those who would care about that (unlikely since a sensor on the front would likely pick up your signal bouncing off the screen unless maybe your throw was very long).

You raise an interesting question about the sensor placement that I don't think has been asked yet - and here I thought we left no stone unturned! :)

I would be surprised if there was no sensor on the front. Afterall with the pj designed to vent out the front I think its made to mount pretty close to a back wall. If anything I'd be worried that there was no sensor on the back, for those who would care about that (unlikely since a sensor on the front would likely pick up your signal bouncing off the screen unless maybe your throw was very long).


I would be surprised as well if there was not one on the front, but it would be great to get some confirmation on this.

The sensor is the round circle next to the lense on the right.
http://pro.jvc.com/pro/attributes/PRESENT/photos/general/dlars1.jpg

Ekkehart, what gain is your 2,8 m screen? Thanks.

The sensor is the round circle next to the lense on the right.
http://pro.jvc.com/pro/attributes/PRESENT/photos/general/dlars1.jpg


Nice! Thanks for the info smithfarmer.

The sensor is the round circle next to the lense on the right.
http://pro.jvc.com/pro/attributes/PRESENT/photos/general/dlars1.jpg

Looking at the photos of the RS1 at this site, http://www.jvc.co.uk/site/d-ila/, it appears that there is a sensor on both the front and on the back of the unit (appears to be a sensor on rear just to left of s-video input, but cannot find a high enough resolution photo to be certain).

Ekkehart,
Is this a production sample?

Soren, no its not, the mass production samples are schedule to leave Japan on 26 Jan. Ekkehart sample is I believe one of the latest PP (PreProduction) samples available.

yeah but i was hoping to be able to hit closer to the rumored 17k marks not having to give up the lumens to hit the 15k mark. =(


I think we would all like that, but let's be honest here, JVC have never claimed a 17k figure. All documentation and official information from us has listed a native CR of 15000:1 and I think these figures stack up against the measurement taken at previews in Dec, CES and initial measurements from Ekkehart

I think it is a bit unfair to "criticise" on a CR ratio of 17k which it never claimed it could deliver. I hope you will agree 15k is still more than impressive and considering this is a consumer model, and therefore the likely environment and set ups it will be used, will mean that in the majority of peoples set up the 15k figure can be achieved
realistically

Finally really a request to you all, I know how keen you are on more measurements figures but please give Ekkehart a bit of time to his review. Bombarding him with questions in the short term will only mean that it will take him more time to put the full review online. I think he knows pretty well what figures and data you are all after so give him a break and let him enjoy the weekend as well! ;) ;)

Bart,

We have a number of 2000h on the lamp, but it does not mention if it is high or low mode. Can you please check this?

Ekkehart, thank you so much for posting all this excellent info!

I for one am VERY HAPPY with this report. I was trying to figure out how to cut lumens because I am getting a relatively small screen for a cave of a room. Tonight I figured out a way to put the RS1 near max throw to cut out some lumens, and apparently I am getting the added benefit of more CR :)

The only thing that would screw up my plan is if for some reason the remote sensor was NOT on the front plate of the projector since the front will be flush with my back wall (I am going to put the projector in a closet that is located behind the back wall of the theater) and the rest of the projector will be out of view when in the theater. I am sure it is in front though, it would be crazy if it was not.

I wish I could place my projector out-of-view too. Gives you more of the "movie theater" effect.

How do you plan to vent the hot air out of the closet?

Based on these concerns, does anyone have recommendations (experience) as to what HDMI cable performs best at 1080P and longer runs in the 30 to 35 ft range. I will be using an RS1 with a soon to be decide 1080P source going through an undecided HDMI switch (4 inputs - 2 outputs needed). This will mean another 3ft or so HDMI cable between the switch and Source.
I bought two of the 22 guage, 35ft cables. That's the largest guage they had. I would not try to save just 10.00 by gettting the smaller 24 guage cable. I spoke with a rep from monoprice and he assured me that the 22 guage cable would pass up to 1080p@60hz, the max you will likely encounter, with no problems. Guy on the phone really seemed to know what he was talking about. Of course you can boost the signal with some switchers.

For anyone else who will be locating the RS1 behind the back wall and close to it, attached is a sketch of how I intend to augment ventilation; you might need to expand the image window to get it to be clear.

The air guide will have one side plus top and bottom.

I'll compare the case temp with plenty of room around the unit to what it is in situ and up fan capacity until I'm reasonably close to the same temp, or hopefully even cooler.


Noah,

I'm intrigued by your "RS1 Airflow Adaptor"®. What will you build it out of? I'm interested in doing the same thing but am a bit squeamish since I think it was Tom Stites that mentioned a spec of something like 18" of clearance is needed in front of the vent. If I were able to do something like you are proposing it would simplify my install quite a bit.

Soren, no its not, the mass production samples are schedule to leave Japan on 26 Jan. Ekkehart sample is I believe one of the latest PP (PreProduction) samples available.

Bart - when you say the mass production "samples" are scheduled to leave on Jan 26, are these actual shipping production units, or is this some sort of limited test run of production units that is an in between step from a pre-production unit to a final production unit (bit confused about the term "mass" being used with "samples")? Can you please clarify?

Also do you know if the RS1 will be mass produced with the HD1 units? Or will they make a batch of HD1 units and then start the RS1 run? I've had the impression all along that RS1 will be off the assembly line later than the HD1 so I am curious.

Lastly, do you have any sense for how many units will roll out initially at the end of January? Are we talking dozens or hundreds?

Noah,

I'm intrigued by your "RS1 Airflow Adaptor"®. What will you build it out of? I'm interested in doing the same thing but am a bit squeamish since I think it was Tom Stites that mentioned a spec of something like 18" of clearance is needed in front of the vent. If I were able to do something like you are proposing it would simplify my install quite a bit.

I am planning something similar in concept but execution is different (see attached). Idea is to attach a flexible dryer vent tube to heat exhaust so that it can vent directly into the laundry room. The remaining box is enclosed except for the freash air port (draws air from laundry room) and the port hole for the lens facing the HT room.

Hmm, my distance/screen width is 2.07 which means I would have significant lumen loss. BTW what are the lens max min dist/screen ratios. I know it's in one of these threads but I can't find it.

Tony

Where did you come across that?
The Meridian Forum (http://www.meridianunplugged.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=8;t=000080)

But it is there not as a fact, only a statement from a dealer..

Bart - when you say the mass production "samples" are scheduled to leave on Jan 26, are these actual shipping production units, or is this some sort of limited test run of production units that is an in between step from a pre-production unit to a final production unit (bit confused about the term "mass" being used with "samples")? Can you please clarify?

Also do you know if the RS1 will be mass produced with the HD1 units? Or will they make a batch of HD1 units and then start the RS1 run? I've had the impression all along that RS1 will be off the assembly line later than the HD1 so I am curious.

Lastly, do you have any sense for how many units will roll out initially at the end of January? Are we talking dozens or hundreds?

Sorry for the confusion, the word samples was maybe inappropriately chosen. The factory is ready to start mass production it seems and on standby to be given the go ahead. The last info I got (Monday) is that the first shipment of mass production units will be shipped by air on 26 Jan to Europe and I have no reason to believe that US shipments will be any different than US.

As for qty shipments to the US on this date, I cannot confirm, I know the very first shipment on 26 Jan for Europe is only a couple of hundred. Expect by end of this month and first week of Feb production to be in full swing to I think that those on pre-order in the US will be among the first to receive their units.
As items will have arrive in US via JVC America and regional depots I presume, I would expect 1 week of Feb to be most realistic.

On the RS1 question, I am afraid I simply do not know. I would think they would come of the production line at the same time, but I could tell for sure in which order first HD1 or RS1, sorry.

I wish I could place my projector out-of-view too. Gives you more of the "movie theater" effect.

How do you plan to vent the hot air out of the closet?


Actually the hot air will vent into the theater since the vent is on the front plate. The hole will be almost the full height and width of the RS1 so the vents will be exposed and able to do their job by blowing the hot air into the theater. The main motivation for me to do this is to loose a few lumens because I have a relatively small screen in a cave, and also to get a bit more CR apparently. It will be nice to have the projector out of the room though to get more of that theater effect. :)

Sorry for the confusion, the word samples was maybe inappropriately chosen. The factory is ready to start mass production it seems and on standby to be given the go ahead. The last info I got (Monday) is that the first shipment of mass production units will be shipped by air on 26 Jan to Europe and I have no reason to believe that US shipments will be any different than US.

As for qty shipments to the US on this date, I cannot confirm, I know the very first shipment on 26 Jan for Europe is only a couple of hundred. Expect by end of this month and first week of Feb production to be in full swing to I think that those on pre-order in the US will be among the first to receive their units.
As items will have arrive in US via JVC America and regional depots I presume, I would expect 1 week of Feb to be most realistic.

On the RS1 question, I am afraid I simply do not know. I would think they would come of the production line at the same time, but I could tell for sure in which order first HD1 or RS1, sorry.

Hi Bart - thanks for the clarification. Certain a couple hundred units initially is a great start, especially when you near the top of the RS1 pre-order list! :D

I think you are saying then that you think shipments will be shipped on the 26th to the US as well. Figure a week or so to clear customs, and a week or so to reach us from AVS seems to put us right on target for about mid February (perhaps a bit sooner).

Thanks again for monitoring these discussions and your great contributions!

For anyone else who will be locating the RS1 behind the back wall and close to it, attached is a sketch of how I intend to augment ventilation; you might need to expand the image window to get it to be clear.

The air guide will have one side plus top and bottom.

I'll compare the case temp with plenty of room around the unit to what it is in situ and up fan capacity until I'm reasonably close to the same temp, or hopefully even cooler.

It was hard to tell from the drawing, but is this essentially like a snorkel? Is the exhaust from the unit only able to escape through the new duct at the front end? If so I recommend wrapping the duct all the way around the projectector like a u shape and have both ends open. In the middle of the u shape you have the exhaust exiting the projector into the u duct. This will allow better flow. Also, you may be able to eliminate the fan. However, if you do keep the fan having it on one end with the other ned still open will allow better flow as your fan will work at full capacity rather than being restricted by how much air you can pull through the projector. You will also be pulling cooler air though the duct to help keep your duct cool etc.

I am using a 35ft monoprice HDMI cable at 1080p, but with some minor troubles (which I cannot yet be sure are due to the cable). To be specific, I have no problems with picture quality, but I do have to "select" HDMI on my pj several times before the HDCP handshake succeeds. Unfortunately, I changed the connection at the same time I changed the cable ... it now goes through my Pioneer VSX-84TXSi instead of straight from player to pj as it used to. The old cable was the *25* ft monoprice, with which I had no troubles of any kind.

When I get a spare minute, I'll try cabling the pj directly to the player with the new cable to see which change is the source of my HDCP handshake troubles.

paul

Ok, I can verify now that my 35ft monoprice cable passes 1080p60 perfectly. My handshake problem is (apparently) some transient incompatibility between my receiver and the pj. The hookup between pj and player works like a charm, instantly, no sparklies, no problems of any kind other than I don't get any audio that way :-)

In case you care, I bought the "HDMI Tin-Plated Copper CL2 Rated Cable (22AWG) - 35ft".

I'm not going to work any further on this handshake problem because (a) it works after a couple of tries, and (b) there is some chance it may go away on its own (or, of course, get worse :() when my preorder RS1 arrives.

paul

The last info I got (Monday) is that the first shipment of mass production units will be shipped by air on 26 Jan to Europe and I have no reason to believe that US shipments will be any different than US.

As for qty shipments to the US on this date, I cannot confirm, I know the very first shipment on 26 Jan for Europe is only a couple of hundred.
I got info from my dealer that he expected the HD-1 in the week of 27 Januar, seems in line with what you tell. Thanks for confirming.
I also heared only like 8 units were in the first shipment for Holland. Only Dealer units to show the public. With some luck i will get one.

Ok, I can verify now that my 35ft monoprice cable passes 1080p60 perfectly. My handshake problem is (apparently) some transient incompatibility between my receiver and the pj. The hookup between pj and player works like a charm, instantly, no sparklies, no problems of any kind other than I don't get any audio that way :-)

In case you care, I bought the "HDMI Tin-Plated Copper CL2 Rated Cable (22AWG) - 35ft".

I'm not going to work any further on this handshake problem because (a) it works after a couple of tries, and (b) there is some chance it may go away on its own (or, of course, get worse :() when my preorder RS1 arrives.

paul

Question: for the 22 and 24 gauge 25 ft HDMI cables (the length I need), the monoprice website says "For In-wall installation". Does this mean that they are ONLY for in-wall installation, or can they be used outside the walls? Also, the specs for the 26 gauge version says that it passes 1080p; can one rely on this?

Question: for the 22 and 24 gauge 25 ft HDMI cables (the length I need), the monoprice website says "For In-wall installation". Does this mean that they are ONLY for in-wall installation, or can they be used outside the walls? Also, the specs for the 26 gauge version says that it passes 1080p; can one rely on this?

if it is for in-wall than it meets certain safety criteria. you can use these cables outsides your walls no problem.

Kraig,

"What will you build it out of?"

Two thoughts at this point. Go simple, change the smoothly curved corner to a 45 deg angle, and make it out of MDF or plywood tacked together with a nailgun.

Or, keep the curve and make the side and front walls from a piece of thin sheet material screwed onto the edges of wood top/bottom.

I'll probably go with the former; all the latter does is allow 3/4" closer placement to the wall, no big deal, and smoother airflow around the bend.

EAS,

Sorry, I'm not picturing what you mean.

In any case, my intent is to not have the intake and exhaust, both on the front, to "short out".

The fan is to overcome the airflow restriction causede by the close quarters. Even if unnecessary, having the unit run cooler than it otherwise would seems like a good thing.

Another point is that I put the fan on the exhaust side for a reason - I'm going to "turbocharge" it, the designed airflow path will be altered less than if the fan blew in through the intake.

Blown air is much more directed than sucked air (compare the difference between your shop vac's vacuum and blower ports) and I wouldn't want forced air on the intake to miss any of its intended targets.

Does anyone know if the RS1 can be used in the UK without a voltage transformer ?

I got info from my dealer that he expected the HD-1 in the week of 27 Januar, seems in line with what you tell. Thanks for confirming.
I also heared only like 8 units were in the first shipment for Holland. Only Dealer units to show the public. With some luck i will get one.

That sound probably very reliable, our JVC company in the Netherlands are pretty good in turning things around quickly. The majority of the very first shipment to Europe that is, of which I know the qty but I am afraid I cannot disclose, is destined for Germany and UK, so it looks likes you will be among the first endusers to lay your hands on one in the Nederlands.

PS#
veel plezier ermee en post aub je ervaringen hier en/of op AVforums

So minimum throw maximum lumens less contrast.

Maximum throw less lumens more contrast.

Yes. And one other clarifier: min throw = max zoom; max throw = min zoom. Since I'm not a photographer or cameraman, those terms threw me for loop the first few times.

Like most people, I wish the promise of a constant-aperture lens had come true. But here's one consolation: the fact that lumens increase with zoom will partially offset the brightness lost when upgrading screen size. (Only partially because brightness ~ width^-2 while lumens only increase linearly at best, maybe not even that.)

Example: I'm currently trying to decide between a 119" and 133" HP. Due to its area, the 133" would be 18% dimmer. After you factor in the extra zoom, though, the difference is only about 14%. Every little bit helps ;)

For people with HP screens, larger area adds another helpful factor: viewing distance. The farther back you sit, the smaller the angle of incidence, thus more gain. Continuing my above example, if the 133" allows me to move the couch from 15' to 17' back, then the angle for someone 4' off center goes from 15 to 13 degrees. There's a similar decrease in vertical angle that applies to all seats. Based on the slope of Da-Lite's graph, these combine to add about 0.2 gain. That puts the total loss of brightness for the larger screen under 5%...probably not even noticeable.

Question: for the 22 and 24 gauge 25 ft HDMI cables (the length I need), the monoprice website says "For In-wall installation". Does this mean that they are ONLY for in-wall installation, or can they be used outside the walls? Also, the specs for the 26 gauge version says that it passes 1080p; can one rely on this?

Of course they can still be used outside of walls silly :) The CL-2 rated cables have to do with the jacketing on the outside of the cable to prevent chafing and meet UL In-Wall fire retardant standards. I have a Blue Jeans hdmi cable I'm using outside of my wall....soon to be inside my wall/ceiling. :)

Kraig,

"What will you build it out of?"

Two thoughts at this point. Go simple, change the smoothly curved corner to a 45 deg angle, and make it out of MDF or plywood tacked together with a nailgun.

Or, keep the curve and make the side and front walls from a piece of thin sheet material screwed onto the edges of wood top/bottom.

I'll probably go with the former; all the latter does is allow 3/4" closer placement to the wall, no big deal, and smoother airflow around the bend.

EAS,

Sorry, I'm not picturing what you mean.

In any case, my intent is to not have the intake and exhaust, both on the front, to "short out".

The fan is to overcome the airflow restriction causede by the close quarters. Even if unnecessary, having the unit run cooler than it otherwise would seems like a good thing.

Another point is that I put the fan on the exhaust side for a reason - I'm going to "turbocharge" it, the designed airflow path will be altered less than if the fan blew in through the intake.

Blown air is much more directed than sucked air (compare the difference between your shop vac's vacuum and blower ports) and I wouldn't want forced air on the intake to miss any of its intended targets.

If you enclose the exhaust coming out of the projector with your snorkel and you put a fan on the exit be very sure to rig something that will tell you when your fan fails or your projector will fry in the heat it cannot exhaust.

Sorry If I wasn't clear on the U shape. If your intent is to "turbo charge" by adding a fan that will pull through the unit then what I said will not apply to you. In short what I was saying is to have the projector exhaust into a duct that is open on both ends. On end can have a fan pulling through air. In the middle of the duct your projector is exhausting using it's own fan. With this approach you are exhausting the air in a normal ballance and keeping the duct cool...Think of it like the sunroof of your car driving down the road. A lot of wind is going by so when you blow smoke out the top it is carried away quickly...

Forgive me if this was already answered. I'm late to this thread and a search didn't help. What are this projector's throw ratios at minimum and maximum zoom? Do we have those specs yet?

Edit: Nevermind, I found it. Looks like 1.4:1 - 2.8:1.

Yes. And one other clarifier: min throw = max zoom; max throw = min zoom.

I believe the opposite is true. At least for a camera it is. I don't know why they'd reverse it in the optics of a projector. Max zoom reduces the angle of the optical view to its minimum.

erkq,

Your definition is correct. I had to struggle with the prior definition as well.

Anyhow. it would be nice to have lumen readings at 1.4, 1.65, 1.9, 2.15 2.4. If the curve is resonably smooth I could develop a 2nd or 3rd degree equation using least squares or some similar technigue depending on how smooth curve is.

Tony

[QUOTE=Josh Z]Forgive me if this was already answered. I'm late to this thread and a search didn't help. What are this projector's throw ratios at minimum and maximum zoom? Do we have those specs yet?

QUOTE]

This should be a sticky somewhere...

Its the closest thing to a manual for the HD-1 / RS-1
http://www.jvc-victor.co.jp/english/press/2006/dla-hd1.pdf

EAS, Noah, Thunder,

I'm going to try and fashion a snorkel to route the heat backwards. As you can see from the picture at the link below I have a vent behind my ruby and it attaches to an inline fan. Works great . I was thinking about putting in a new vent in front of the RS1 but that could be bad for the intake. Routing towards the back is best for me but the real challenge IMO is to make something that looks good.

Ruby Vent (https://exchange.ucsf.edu/ht/ruby/ruby2.jpg)

Of course they can still be used outside of walls silly :) The CL-2 rated cables have to do with the jacketing on the outside of the cable to prevent chafing and meet UL In-Wall fire retardant standards. I have a Blue Jeans hdmi cable I'm using outside of my wall....soon to be inside my wall/ceiling. :)

Thanks, Tom; just revealing how much of a novice that I am! Follow-up: will the 26 guage do as well as the 22 and 24 gauges (for 25 ft length)?

Example: I'm currently trying to decide between a 119" and 133" HP. Due to its area, the 133" would be 18% dimmer. After you factor in the extra zoom, though, the difference is only about 14%. Every little bit helps ;)

You made some very good points here. And I'm just about where you are: I've just realized that I can in fact fit a 133" diag HP on the wall, but need to decide it my eyeballs can really digest this size (will be ~ 12.5 to 13 ft from the screen, so this would be ~ 1.3 screen widths). 119" or 133"? HP will also do any size you want (the cost simply being that for the larger standard size) so I could split the diff and go 126"! Decisions, deciisions! When I get the RS1 I'll just have to throw it up on the wall for a week or so to see how it looks.

You made some very good points here. And I'm just about where you are: I've just realized that I can in fact fit a 133" diag HP on the wall, but need to decide it my eyeballs can really digest this size (will be ~ 12.5 to 13 ft from the screen, so this would be ~ 1.3 screen widths). 119" or 133"? HP will also do any size you want (the cost simply being that for the larger standard size) so I could split the diff and go 126"! Decisions, deciisions! When I get the RS1 I'll just have to throw it up on the wall for a week or so to see how it looks.

Is the size based upon 2:35:1 or 16:9? If it's the former, shouldn't be a problem on the eyes - I am running that now - works out to be 1.7 screen widths for 16:9 material. If it's the latter, that's too close for me personally but others are fine with it. Should experience it before you commit to it.

Is the size based upon 2:35:1 or 16:9? If it's the former, shouldn't be a problem on the eyes - I am running that now - works out to be 1.7 screen widths for 16:9 material. If it's the latter, that's too close for me personally but others are fine with it. Should experience it before you commit to it.

Will be 16:9, and you're of course right, I will have to decide for myself. 1.3 to 1.5 screen widths seems to be the most common I hear of for the 'full emersion experience', though I've also seen posts from some that sit at 1.1 or even 1.0 SW.

I just don't want to be in the situation that after 6 months I will wish that I had gotten it 'a little bit bigger'; I've heard very few people report that they wish they had gotten it 'a little bit smaller'!

Originally Posted by Richard Berg
Yes. And one other clarifier: min throw = max zoom; max throw = min zoom.

They are not mutually exclusive. Throw is the distance between the lense and screen surface. Zoom is the determiner of image size at a given throw. You can have the pj at it's minimum throw and use either minimum or maximum zoom and the same also applies to max throw.

I'd also like to get some info regarding beam size at min throw. I was wanting to use a min throw but that might not be possible with the early panamorph I've had since their inception.
Does anyone know if the newer panamorphs accept a larger beam size than the original?

Thanks
Rick

Edit: After checking the panamorph website , the closest you can mount the projector using the U85 lens is 1.8 screen widths. So no max lumens for those using a U85. For the CH lens the closest you could mount the projector would be 1.6 sw, also resulting in slightly fewer lumens. Although in the text describing the lens they mention 1.6 for the U85 and 1.4 for the UH380. HMMMMM

EAS,

Still not sure I'm correctly picturing what you've described, but I think it's important to not have a single channel in front of the pj, or the drawing out of air effect will work on the intake vent as well as the exhaust.

Kraig,

Your link didn't work for me.

I'm glad mine will be in a closet and out of sight. If you make yours from wood, round over the edges to match the JVC's contours, and paint it black it ought not look too bad.

EAS,

Still not sure I'm correctly picturing what you've described.

Ok, nevermind.

I'd also like to get some info regarding beam size at min throw. I was wanting to use a min throw but that might not be possible with the early panamorph I've had since their inception.
Does anyone know if the newer panamorphs accept a larger beam size than the original?

Thanks
Rick

Edit: After checking the panamorph website , the closest you can mount the projector using the U85 lens is 1.8 screen widths. So no max lumens for those using a U85. For the CH lens the closest you could mount the projector would be 1.6 sw, also resulting in slightly fewer lumens. Although in the text describing the lens they mention 1.6 for the U85 and 1.4 for the UH380. HMMMMM

Also seeing the infrared reciever is placed so close to the lens on the RS1 it appears an anamorphic (U100 type) lens may block most if not all i/r remote capabilities.

Kraig,

Your link didn't work for me.

I'm glad mine will be in a closet and out of sight. If you make yours from wood, round over the edges to match the JVC's contours, and paint it black it ought not look too bad.

Wood would be easiest but not sure if it would be best. I might try to work with plastic. Maybe one of our resident AVS industrial designers will step up with something they'll make a sell, just dreamin'.

Link should work now.. Ruby Vent (https://exchange.ucsf.edu/ht/ruby/ruby2.jpg)

This may have been covered somewhere else but I haven't seen it in the threads that deal excluisively with the RS1/HD!.
Does using the constant height panamorph UH380 lens have any advantages over the constant width setup using the U85, in terms of contrast?
It seems that with the UH380 you're effectively lengthening the throw and would you therefore be getting the higher contrast ratio we all so covet?

Rick

Will be 16:9, and you're of course right, I will have to decide for myself. 1.3 to 1.5 screen widths seems to be the most common I hear of for the 'full emersion experience', though I've also seen posts from some that sit at 1.1 or even 1.0 SW.
The RS1 should look unbelievable on 2.35:1 movies from as close as 1.0 screen widths, both in PQ and immersion. The problem is, at this size, most 16:9 material is way too big IMO. For this reason, the best compromise size for a 16:9 screen is probably 1.3 to 1.5 SW. My solution? (hint: I have a thread in the CIH forum) ;)

I believe the opposite is true. At least for a camera it is. I don't know why they'd reverse it in the optics of a projector. Max zoom reduces the angle of the optical view to its minimum.
I agree, it seems backwards. But that's how the terminology seems to work. Several people put it in those terms c. pp 40-50 of this thread. See also the projectorCentral calculator (http://www.projectorcentral.com/JVC-DLA-HD1-projection-calculator-pro.htm): increasing zoom while holding distance constant => bigger image.

They are not mutually exclusive. Throw is the distance between the lense and screen surface. Zoom is the determiner of image size at a given throw. You can have the pj at it's minimum throw and use either minimum or maximum zoom and the same also applies to max throw.
Sure. But not if you hold screen size constant. (as does the 'min throw = max lumens' rule of thumb I was trying to clarify)

[QUOTE=Richard Berg] increasing zoom while holding distance constant => bigger image.

I don't see a "zoom" slider on Projector Central's calculator so I'm not sure how it establishes what direction "zoom" operates.

Kraig,

How is wood not as good? Unless it's expertly formed in plastic, MDF is easier to shape, fix mistakes, and then paint over.

"I agree, it seems backwards."

As a matter of fact, in cameras and pj's the light is going in opposite directions and affected oppositely by the same lens.

As a matter of fact, in cameras and pj's the light is going in opposite directions and affected oppositely by the same lens.

Ah-HAH! That makes total sense.

They are not mutually exclusive. Throw is the distance between the lense and screen surface. Zoom is the determiner of image size at a given throw. You can have the pj at it's minimum throw and use either minimum or maximum zoom and the same also applies to max throw.
Sure. But not if you hold screen size constant. (as does the 'min throw = max lumens' rule of thumb I was trying to clarify)
Sorry, but that is not what you previously posted and the sole reason for my response to it : Yes. And one other clarifier: min throw = max zoom; max throw = min zoom.

As for keeping the screen size constant, you are correct, but it's not the point I was trying to make. ;)

Is there any benefit of using the DVDO VP50 video processor with the RS1? I know the RS1 uses the Gennum chip but I'm not sure how that compares with the VP50's abilities?

I also know that DVDO's products do a great job of handling (scaling and deinterlacing) 480i content. Does the RS1's internal processor do as well?

Sincerely,
snooktapron

"Is there any benefit of using the DVDO VP50 video processor with the RS1?"

We hope not :)

The RS1's PQ w/SD is probably the biggest UN[edit]answered question.

i know this is not a major question, but what level of change should be expected on colors going normal in the RS1? (apart from less fan noise, less brightness, same contrast i guess).

Is there any benefit of using the DVDO VP50 video processor with the RS1?60i --> 24p conversion of 24 frame per second film material so it can be shown without 3:2 cadence judder.

i know this is not a major question, but what level of change should be expected on colors going normal in the RS1? (apart from less fan noise, less brightness, same contrast i guess).
Colors should stay the same in normal or high mode.

You made some very good points here. And I'm just about where you are: I've just realized that I can in fact fit a 133" diag HP on the wall, but need to decide it my eyeballs can really digest this size (will be ~ 12.5 to 13 ft from the screen, so this would be ~ 1.3 screen widths). 119" or 133"? HP will also do any size you want (the cost simply being that for the larger standard size) so I could split the diff and go 126"! Decisions, deciisions! When I get the RS1 I'll just have to throw it up on the wall for a week or so to see how it looks.
Congratulations! I'd wondered where your endless search for BIGGER had ended-Logical End. Look forward to your feedback. I'm at 57" Sharp and may be going D93 65" or Samsung 70" - my room cannot handle a FP. Love the Sharp but I now know what your obsession was about - I want bigger and I'm at 8.5' and 1080i/p is so clear I can go up to 70" and SD isn't all that bad either. This JVC sounds fantastic for those with the right viewing environ.

I also must share that recently my wife and I went to the movies after an absence of about 18 months and Yuck my Sharp blew away what we were seeing up on the screen, I hadn't gone in so long it was a real awakening that how far the theater experience had fallen behind in PQ of what we can have in our homes with surround sound and DVD HD and good news I won't be back after being held hostage to 40 minutes of commercials and cattle (viewers) chewing their popcorn and checking their cell phones damn no wonder so many people are creating their home theaters. Sorry folks, but I'm 56 and grew up when you got two movies for admission for 25 cent matinee and entertainment was in between movies and you had cartoons not commercials whoring up the screen and now the snacks have about a thousand percent markup! Bye AMC Forum 30 RANT OVER.

For the FP I'd have to finish off the basement at a cost of about $30K+ unless I go grunge look since my basement has high ceilings and half high 4' windows across the southern wall I'd have to enclose a section to remove the light. ;)

Still follow RPTV section also and had wondered where your search had ended and I guess the next step would be IMAX. :D ENJOY and Share!

Sorry, but that is not what you previously posted and the sole reason for my response to it :

As for keeping the screen size constant, you are correct, but it's not the point I was trying to make. ;)

Maybe to clarify all this we should be talking about the angle of throw. Therefore, is max zoom= widest angle and min zoom = narrowest angle or visa-versa?

60i --> 24p conversion of 24 frame per second film material so it can be shown without 3:2 cadence judder.

Is it confirmed that the RS1 will sync to some multiple of 24hz? (Sorry if I missed it.)

24 Hz --> 96 Hz if I remember correctly.
But that source (tsites) was wrong about other things :)

Or did you mean if a PC outputs 72 Hz, that RS1 locks on and use interenal refresh of 72 Hz .. and not 60 Hz as most LCD?

Still nothing from Ekkehart :(
Can't hardly wait to get a thourough review of the HD1 !!

Kraig,

How is wood not as good? Unless it's expertly formed in plastic, MDF is easier to shape, fix mistakes, and then paint over.

"I agree, it seems backwards."

As a matter of fact, in cameras and pj's the light is going in opposite directions and affected oppositely by the same lens.

I guess my woodworking skills aren't too great. I think of wood as square and clunky where if I could do something in plastic or some flexible material it would be round and curvy. As always I will start with a walk through Home Depot to see if anything will work..

"I think of wood as square and clunky where if I could do something in plastic or some flexible material it would be round and curvy."

http://www.vandykes.com/product/02007822/

Shawn

I... As always I will start with a walk through Home Depot to see if anything will work..
I didn't measure the exhaust vent size on the RS-1 but you might want to take a look at 4" DWV pipe. It is available in black and might work for you.

"I think of wood as square and clunky where if I could do something in plastic or some flexible material it would be round and curvy."

http://www.vandykes.com/product/02007822/

Shawn

Shawn - Thanks for another possibility.


I didn't measure the exhaust vent size on the RS-1 but you might want to take a look at 4" DWV pipe. It is available in black and might work for you.

Maddog - You're reading my mind.

I've got one hooked up in my room here at the moment if anyone wants anything simple checked, i can throw different refresh rates at it from a lumagen if anyone has any specifics, also have the designer in on Wednesday night for a chat :D

How is the black screen uniformity, specially in the corners, Elliot?

How does its picture look? 8) Try any HD-DVDs yet?

I've got one hooked up in my room here at the moment if anyone wants anything simple checked, i can throw different refresh rates at it from a lumagen if anyone has any specifics, also have the designer in on Wednesday night for a chat :D
Let me get my request in first!!!

Check for chromatic aberrations and light fall off in the corners with the vertical lens offset at 70-80%.

EDIT : Damn! Too slow to be first!!!

How is the black screen uniformity, specially in the corners, Elliot?

How does its picture look? 8) Try any HD-DVDs yet?

Black screen uniformity is excellent, as is white field. I've got it setup next to a pearl and a ruby at present. Convergence near perfect, needed a minor adjustment in the convergence menu (what a novelty to have that option!)

Should also add it is significantly blacker with a 0 IRE image, this is with the Sony in low lamp mode as well as the JVC, JVC has 3 hours, pearl about 200.

Running Kong in HD at the moment and it looks significantly sharper than the 2 sony's :)

Let me get my request in first!!!

Check for chromatic aberrations and light fall off in the corners with the vertical lens offset at 70-80%.

EDIT : Damn! Too slow to be first!!!

I'll take a look at this later, just about to stick it in my car so i can take it home and play ps3 :p

Very sweet. Thanks for the observations, Elliot. 8) Please let us know how it looks on the PS3. 8)

Lumen and contrast measurements at minimum and maximum throw.

Does lens shift have any impact on lumen output and contrast?

I'll take a look at this later, just about to stick it in my car so i can take it home and play ps3 :p
Elliot,

Enjoy and thanks!

Testing at a vertical offset of 60-80% is very important since most of us will be ceiling mounting the projector.

What part of the UK are you in? We go to Sweden every summer (getting away from the jungle heat here in August) and sometimes stop over in London for a few days to visit friends near Woking. I would enjoy dropping in to say hello if we are in your area.

Elliot - a few things if you could let us know about please:

1) Can you describe the convergence adjustment needed (shift 1 pixel, more?). Also what the very little bit of misconvergence you had completely uniform or did shifting the panel then cause a different area of the screen to be less than ideal? Would you describe your MC now as a half pixel, less?

2) What is the lumens and contrast measurement at MID throw (2.1x width)

3) Just would like to hear more detailed impressions on how you like it, how sharp it is compared to any DLPs you are familiar with, and how the colors look.

4) Can you clarify where the horizontal and vertical lens shift adjustments are physically located on the machine? Will these be accessible when ceiling mounted?

Thanks!

Hi:

Just had a conversation with a JVC engineer I was put in contact with through JVC in Wayne, NJ. He apparently works directly on the RS1 product. I was told that he has petitioned the "factory" to add the vertical stretch. He is unsure at this time as to whether or not it will be added but told me that he will be sending another memo today requesting this feature because of requests from numerous sources. This individual has been very helpful in the past and seems very much like an enthusiast. Also, the shipping date is approximately mid-February so there is more than enough time to add the software modifications for the stretch.

It would probably be a very good idea to contact JVC and ask for this feature. The more people that ask for it, the more likely it is to be added. I told him that there are more than likely many people who would buy the RS1 if it had this feature included. We will have to wait and see what happens, but as I always say, the squeaky wheel gets the oil. If enough people make a stink over this, perhaps it will get done.

He did say something that was worrisome and that is that sometimes no matter what the engineers feel need to be added to the product, it doesn't get added. So please take it from there. I have given the phone number and name of this contact to one other person on the forum several weeks ago. I don't think it would be helpful to contact him seeing as how he is pushing so hard to get this feature included in the final product. So I guess contacting JVC in Wayne might be one way of being that squeaky wheel.

Yours very truly,

Foil

If the vertical stretch is implemented that's going to cost me some money - I'll have no choice but to upgrade the screen, buy the lense, and then of course - a masking system. Budget smudget... :)

Elliot,

Enjoy and thanks!

Testing at a vertical offset of 60-80% is very important since most of us will be ceiling mounting the projector.

What part of the UK are you in? We go to Sweden every summer (getting away from the jungle heat here in August) and sometimes stop over in London for a few days to visit friends near Woking. I would enjoy dropping in to say hello if we are in your area.
LOL

Woking to Elliot/PJ Hifi is no more than 10 miles...

Hi:


It would probably be a very good idea to contact JVC and ask for this feature. The more people that ask for it, the more likely it is to be added. I told him that there are more than likely many people who would buy the RS1 if it had this feature included. We will have to wait and see what happens, but as I always say, the squeaky wheel gets the oil. If enough people make a stink over this, perhaps it will get done.

Yours very truly,

Foil

Foil, I would disagree with you on that, adding more requests add no more weight to this discussion. JVC is very much aware of the request by some potential end-users for this vertical stretch option, and by simply bombarding JVC with more individual requests will only slow down the launch of this projector.

IMHO if it is technically AND commercially viable to add this feature at this very late stage it will be considered, but personally I am not sure if it is realistic for the HD1, as the first products will be shipped in less than 10 days time and I do not believe it is in the bigger picture of things in our interest to delay the launch of this much awaited projector; anyhow this is my personal opinion rather than that of JVC.

Hi,

The shipping date RS1 is mid-february or even later :mad:

foil

Elliot,

Any chance you can put it in inverted mode and see if fan speed increases?

Thanks,

Shawn

... I am not sure if it is realistic for the HD1, as the first products will be shipped in less than 10 days time and I do not believe it is in the bigger picture of things in our interest to delay the launch of this much awaited projector; anyhow this is my personal opinion rather than that of JVC.
BartS,

I 100% agree! I want this projector out the door and in my HT ASAP!!! If they can do it as a firmware upgrade, fine, but don't delay shipping over this issue.

Also, thanks for the info on Elliot's business location. If we can catch our friends at home this summer, I will definitely stop by!

Just an observation, but I find it very surprising that many are requesting the vertical stretch feature, but no-one is clamouring for judderless display of 3:2 cadence material. Does no-one else notice 3:2 judder or has everyone simply gotten used to it?

Both, of course, can be corrected via an external video processor.

Viruskiller,

I second that request.. but is there any projector out there today that does 60->24?
I've only seen it on external processors.

Foil, I would disagree with you on that, adding more requests add no more weight to this discussion. JVC is very much aware of the request by some potential end-users for this vertical stretch option, and by simply bombarding JVC with more individual requests will only slow down the launch of this projector.

IMHO if it is technically AND commercially viable to add this feature at this very late stage it will be considered, but personally I am not sure if it is realistic for the HD1, as the first products will be shipped in less than 10 days time and I do not believe it is in the bigger picture of things in our interest to delay the launch of this much awaited projector; anyhow this is my personal opinion rather than that of JVC.

But it could be handled by a firmware update if there isn't time prior to launch, correct? As long as JVC is comitted to doing it by a certain date, most I would think, would satisfied with that. I agree that the launch should not be held up for it assuming firmaware option is viable.

I just talked to Ken Bylsma at JVC and put in another request for vertical stretch. He appreciated the comment and said that he wrote a second memo for it to be added. He doesn't know if the factory can do it, but hopes for it to be in production models. He gave me the impression it is out of his hands and in the hands of "the factory". He did say late Feb. as a date for the U.S., so I'd bet mid-March to be safe.

I'm trying to calculate the distance the projector need to be mounted. If I want to use a 2x throw ratio and my screen is 106" wide, would that be 106" x 2 = 212" or 17.6'?

I'll do my best to field answers to all of these guys, i only have the unit for 2 days as i am holding a shoot out at a pre-launch event here in the UK on Wednesday where its up against the pearl with both units ISF'd.

The event is on Wednesday and im stretched for time as i am out installing all day tmrw, and first thing Wed AM so please bear with me. Good news is you will be able to read the outcome from all the guys visiting :)

Alex Kobayashi, team leader and designer of the JVC is flying in for the evening so i will get a definite answer on stretch. It would need to be an update now though i'm sure as our first customer units are coming in on the 26th of this month.

EDIT: This is a link to the UK thread where we have been discussing the unit, may be of interest now/after the launch event: UK Forum (http://www.avforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=422747)

Not as big as this thread, but skip to page 14 or so for current info...

Elliot: Can you measure the physical dimensions of the beam coming out of the projector (maybe on a blank white sheet of paper)? (maybe a min zoom and mid zoom?) I want to double check that it will work with my Panamorph U85 lens. Thanks and enjoy!

Not sure anyone has referenced this, but here is a site with a few HD1/RS1
screen shots. Also has one showing the Pearl set up right next the JVC.

First time I've done this, may have to cut/paste.

http://fotoalbum.web.de/gast/grossbildspezialisten/Vorstellung_JVC_HD1_Projektor

I'm glad to hear things are moving along nicely towards having shipping units. I've gotten the impression all along that for some reason the HD1 is getting priority in terms of shipping over the RS1. If the HD1 units are available at the end of January that's good news but we're hearing mid to late Feb for the RS1...

Bill,

You know what I'm going to say - go for the 133" :)

Now it's true that no matter how big you go, you acclimate, but at least you won't be able to kick yourself for not having gone as big as you could have.

"Is there any benefit of using the DVDO VP50 video processor with the RS1?"

"60i --> 24p conversion of 24 frame per second film material so it can be shown without 3:2 cadence judder."

Do we know that the Gennum cannot do this?

Kraig,

"I think of wood as square and clunky where if I could do something in plastic or some flexible material it would be round and curvy."

You could do a combination, as I might.

Bent thin material for a curved side (isn't the RS1 straight-sided though?) and 3/4" MDF top/bottom, which can be radiused with a router and roundover bit.

Shawn, thanks for that link.

Do you know how it gets its flexibility? Is it sliced on one side and he's bending it to the point that they've closed up?

Bart,

"Foil, I would disagree with you on that, adding more requests add no more weight to this discussion..."

This doesn't make sense to me. Of course it makes a difference what % of customers and potential customers want a certain feature.

Bill,

You know what I'm going to say - go for the 133" :)

Now it's true that no matter how big you go, you acclimate, but at least you won't be able to kick yourself for not having gone as big as you could have.

Thanks Noah. And yes, I would have expected this rec from you! I still remember the very pleasant evening viewing your 133" HP; and as I remember, it didn't seem too big at ~12 ft away. So that is an important data point in my decision making process.

Elliot - Thanks for the info!

Please if possible, post some 1080p PC or 1080 Test Pattern images from the Sony vs the JVC . Also, if anyone can bring a DLP to your shootout and we can see a shot from it too, I think all sharpness questions would end...

Looking forward to your shootout results...

24 Hz --> 96 Hz if I remember correctly.
But that source (tsites) was wrong about other things :)

Or did you mean if a PC outputs 72 Hz, that RS1 locks on and use interenal refresh of 72 Hz .. and not 60 Hz as most LCD?

I have a video processor (DVDO VP50) that can convert the frame rate to a multiple of 24hz. What I'm wondering is if it's really been confirmed that the RS-1 will sync to one of these frame rates without converting back to 60hz for display?

For example, my current projector will sync to either 60hz or 48hz. However, although it will accept a 72hz input it converts that back to 60. So for film-based content, I use 48hz.

Has it been absolutely confirmed that the RS-1 will sync to a multiple of 24hz, or are we just speculating that it may?

Noah,

"Do you know how it gets its flexibility? Is it sliced on one side and he's bending it to the point that they've closed up?"

I haven't used it yet. Just saw that link posted on another forum as being very useful in making horns. I don't know how they do it but I don't think it is from putting a bunch of slices on one side. Maybe all the grain in the layers being oriented the same with a flexible glue? I'm sure if you emailed you could confirm if it was sliced or not.

Shawn

Shawn,

I'll email them.

Josh,

"Has it been absolutely confirmed that the RS-1 will sync to a multiple of 24hz, or are we just speculating that it may?"

Not sure if thos is what you're asking, but Tom Stites said the RS1 will accept 1080P/24 input, and...well gosh, I didn't ask if it *output* 24P, but I think he understood that's what I was asking.

Which even if true is not the same as converting 60 f/s back to 24.

Noah,

"Do you know how it gets its flexibility? Is it sliced on one side and he's bending it to the point that they've closed up?"

I haven't used it yet. Just saw that link posted on another forum as being very useful in making horns. I don't know how they do it but I don't think it is from putting a bunch of slices on one side. Maybe all the grain in the layers being oriented the same with a flexible glue? I'm sure if you emailed you could confirm if it was sliced or not.
Shawn
Other options for flexible wood; get a friend with a bandsaw to cut you some 1/16" thick strips of clear wood. That should allow you to bend into a fairly tight arc. You can laminate several layers for strength. Another alternative might be balsa wood. Any hobby shop should carry 1/16" or thinner material. Balsa bends relatively easy across the grain.

Actually for this application I'd just use a thin piece of acrylic, doorskin, etc.

Ok, I've got a valid question and not a rant about vertical stretch. The component input on the RS1 can function as both as a standard component input as well as take a VGA input from a computer? So I would need a vga to 3xRCA breakout cable? I wonder if a VGA signal can travel 35" without much degradation.

That would depend more on the quality of the cable. I have about a 30' cable with little degradation. It is a 15pin din to 15pin din on my JVC G11

Anyone know if you can put the RS1 on a 16" deep bookshelf? I know the depth of the projector is around 18", but perhaps the base feet are less and it would be ok for it to hang out a bit in the back?

Anyone know if you can put the RS1 on a 16" deep bookshelf? I know the depth of the projector is around 18", but perhaps the base feet are less and it would be ok for it to hang out a bit in the back?

I would think so. I measured the position of the 'feet' of the RS1 last week at the CES, and it is 12" between the front pair and rear pair. So I think a 16" deep shelf would work fine.

excellent, thank you.

Not sure if thos is what you're asking, but Tom Stites said the RS1 will accept 1080P/24 input, and...well gosh, I didn't ask if it *output* 24P, but I think he understood that's what I was asking.

Being able to accept 1080p24 and being able to display it without converting back to 60hz are two different things, but I will remain optimistic. Thanks.

Being able to accept 1080p24 and being able to display it without converting back to 60hz are two different things, but I will remain optimistic. Thanks.

According to JVC's website, the RS1 has the same Gennum chip, (the GF9351) that the Marantz VP-11S1 uses- so it should be able to restore 1080/24 from 1080/60i film-based sources without issue, and we know the JVC will accept 1080p/24 sources directly. The question, as you pose it, is whether or not it will then display the image at a multiple of 24hz, or if it will only do 60hz. I'd like to see that one answered as well.

Being able to accept 1080p24 and being able to display it without converting back to 60hz are two different things, but I will remain optimistic. Thanks.


No need to worry... Watched a HD-DVD the other night via 1080p/24 on the HD1 / RS1, worked fine without judder etc.

Regards,
Ekkehart, Cine4Home

Being able to accept 1080p24 and being able to display it without converting back to 60hz are two different things, but I will remain optimistic. Thanks.I am 99% certain from the many RS1/HD1 threads on this forum (and I've been on them all since last September) that the HD1 will frame-double to 48Hz and display natively at 96Hz. I will ask this question of the HD1 chief designer (Alex Kobayashi) tomorrow.